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Effect of Fibre Fineness and Noil Extraction on the Different Shade Depths of
Melange Yarns

Article in Journal of The Institution of Engineers (India) Series E · January 2020

DOI: 10.1007/s40034-019-00155-z

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J. Inst. Eng. India Ser. E
https://doi.org/10.1007/s40034-019-00155-z

ORIGINAL CONTRIBUTION

Effect of Fibre Fineness and Noil Extraction on the Different

Shade Depths of Melange Yarns
Akhtarul Islam Amjad1 • Rajiv Kumar2

Received: 18 April 2019 / Accepted: 14 December 2019

Ó The Institution of Engineers (India) 2020

Abstract Melange cotton yarns possess unique attributes Keywords Cotton fibre properties 
of aesthetics and comfort. The quality of melange yarn is Melange yarn spinning  Shade depth of melange yarn 
largely influenced by fibre properties, spinning process, Ring spun melange yarn  RRI
dyeing conditions and proportion of grey and dyed fibres.
In this study, dyed and grey cotton fibre components were
mixed at the blow room to produce melange yarns with Introduction
three different shade depths. The aim of present work is to
investigate the effect of raw material properties and process Yarns with unique colour and fancy effect are being pro-
variables at different shade depths on the properties of duced to get higher prices due to their aesthetic values. The
cotton melange yarns. Box–Behnken experimental design quest of production and consumption of such fancy yarn
was used to study effect of three factors: fineness of cotton, have achieved daily growth with an eye on mass marketing
noil extraction% and shade depth% on properties of mel- in recent years [1]. There are several spinning systems to
ange yarn. ANOVA analysis shows that there is significant produce such yarns but due to product diversification from
effect of noil extraction and shade depth on all yarn grey to fancy yarn, ring spinning system is mostly used
properties. Fibre fineness also shows significant effect on which is oldest and the most preferable [2, 3]. Among all
unevenness, tensile, abrasion, yarn metal friction properties types of fancy yarns, melange yarn is known for its
except breaking extension and hairiness. Better yarn attractive colour and unique appearance. Melange yarn is a
quality with respect to yarn evenness, imperfections, type of spun yarn made from mixing grey and dyed fibres.
hairiness, tenacity, breaking extension, yarn metal friction The wave-like effect and a wide range of colour tones due
and yarn abrasion resistance RRI is achieved for lower to blending of different colour fibres make it more popular
shade depth melange yarn. The properties of melange yarn and rich in look. Melange yarn production is broadly
with higher noil extracted at comber stage are noticeably divided into two processes: dyeing and spinning [4]. Fibres
better in respect of tensile strength, elongation, hairiness, with different colours are mixed either in the blow room or
mass irregularity, imperfections and yarn abrasion resis- by feeding differently dyed slivers to the draw frame.
tance RRI. Cotton melange yarn quality is significantly affected by the
method of blending [5]. Repetitive blow room and carding
action imparted in the spinning cause more fibre damage
and higher short fibre generation, which results in lower
tensile strength and breaking elongation, as well as more
& Akhtarul Islam Amjad yarn mass irregularity, imperfections and hairiness. Fur-
[email protected]
thermore, a higher number of draw frame passages improve
1
Department of Textile Engineering, M L V Textile fibre parallelization, which results in better yarn quality in
Engineering College, Bhilwara, Rajasthan 311001, India the case of draw frame blending [6]. Ray et al. [7] have
2
Department of Textile Technology, M L V Textile investigated the effect of spinning process parameters on
Engineering College, Bhilwara, Rajasthan 311001, India the ring spun cotton melange yarn quality and reported that

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 J. Inst. Eng. India Ser. E

yarn unevenness, imperfection and elongation at break are has been studied at three different levels of shade depth for
significantly affected by spindle speed and percentage of melange yarns.
dyed fibre in the yarn cross section, whereas yarn strength
and hairiness index are significantly affected by shade
depth and twist multiplier. The properties of the melange Materials and Methods
yarn depend considerably on the spinning systems. Karim
et al. [8] have studied the impact of spinning operations on Materials
the quality of ring and rotor spun melange yarns and
reported that the presence of dyed fibres in mixing leads to Black dyed and grey combed H-4 organic cotton fibres are
decrease in the mechanical properties of rotor spun mel- used to produce 20 tex (30s Ne) melange yarns. Properties
ange yarns. Further, they reported that ring spun melange of raw cotton fibres which are used to produce the yarns are
yarn exhibits less loss of mechanical properties as com- summarised in Table 1.
pared to rotor spun cotton melange yarn and the severe For the manufacturing of cotton melange yarn, dyed
damage is observed on dyed fibres during various stages of fibres are mixed with grey combed fibres in required pro-
yarn manufacturing shown by SEM images. Ishtiaque and portion. Process and dyeing parameters are kept constant
Das [9] have worked on characterisation of grey and dyed for all type of yarns. Table 2a shows the properties of
cotton fibres for rotor spinning process and reported that all cotton fibres before dyeing and after dyeing (including
the processing stages affect the mechanical properties of opening) of 0%, 11% and 22% noil extracted material.
cotton fibres and their extent is process dependent. It is also Carded (0%) cotton is obtained by eliminating combing
investigated that the processing effect is more prominent in process; semi-combed (11%) cotton by setting noil index 7
case of natural dyed fibres where the frictional coefficient at comber and combed cotton by setting noil index at 13.
is very high. Compact melange yarn shows better evenness, Table 2b shows the changes in the properties of cotton
tensile strength and extension, less hairiness, imperfection fibres after melange mixing and carding for 4.6 and 3.8 mic
and coefficient of friction compared to conventional ring and 22% noil extraction.
spun cotton melange yarn [4]. Process variables of vortex Results of Table 2a show that dyeing and opening of
spinning also impact on the properties of spun melange cotton fibre adversely effect on tensile properties of cotton
yarn. The vortex melange yarn quality is largely affected fibres. An increment in short fibre index, short fibre content
by yarn delivery speed, yarn count and nozzle pressure and neps/g are also observed. It is also observed that
[10]. combed fibres show high short fibre and high neps after
Apart from process parameters, dyeing parameters also dying and opening compared to carded fibre. It is also
affect the quality of melange yarn. Dyeing of cotton fibres evident from Table 2a that loss in the fibre properties for
leads to their greater entanglement and cohesion. After mic 3.8 is higher compared to mic 4.6. This may be due to
dyeing, the fibres become compact and experience various higher surface available for action of high pressure, alkali
stresses during the opening and cleaning processes in the treatment and the drying process during dyeing [12, 13].
spinning. Thus, the dyed fibres are more prone to surface Table 2b shows that during spinning, there is reduction
damage than the grey fibres. There is removal of a large in strength and span length. Short fibres are also more after
portion of natural wax present on the surface of fibres mixing and carding [8, 13, 15].
during the scouring and dyeing process, surface properties
of dyed fibre are also affected and fibre damage takes Melange Yarn Manufacturing Process
place. Cotton fibres suffer from decrease in strength after
being dyed. An increase in the dyed fibre share in the Melange yarn manufacturing is basically divided into three
mixture further increases difficulties in melange yarn sub processes as shown in Fig. 1.
manufacturing [8–11]. Fibre damages not only affect the First process is to comb the grey fibres, Second process
efficiency of the spinning process, but also the mechanical is to dye the combed grey fibre and third process is stack
properties of the final yarn and fabric. Few researchers blending of grey and dyed fibres in required ratio at blow
have reported optimal dyeing condition, dyeing parameters room. In the case of melange yarn production, the per-
on melange yarn quality characteristics [11–15]. centage of dyed fibre in the mixing is commonly termed as
Most of the researchers are primarily concerned with the shade percentage or shade depth (%).
dyeing parameters and mixing techniques. However, no
study has been reported on the interactive effect of raw Design of Experiment
material, spinning process parameter and dyeing qualities
on the melange yarn quality. Hence in this study, the effect The melange yarn samples which are used in this study are
of fibre fineness and noil extraction percentage at comber produced on ring spinning machine by varying three

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J. Inst. Eng. India Ser. E

Table 1 Properties of grey cotton fibres

Sr. Fineness of fibre 2.5% span length Bundle strength Elongation Short fibre Short fibre content Fibre neps
no. (micronaire) (mm) (g/tex) (%) index (%) (number%) (neps/g)

1 3.83 (3.8)a 28.85 21.25 6.05 8.89 31 92

a
2 4.23 (4.2) 28.89 21.22 6.04 8.91 31.07 95
3 4.57 (4.6)a 28.81 21.18 6.04 8.85 30.95 90
a
Nominal Fineness of fibre

Table 2 (a) Properties of cotton fibres after dyeing, (b) Properties of cotton fibre during spinning
Fibre quality Fineness Noil Instruments
(mic.) extraction
(%) HVI (ICC mode) AFIS
2.5% span Bundle strength Elongation Short fibre Short fibre content Fibre neps
length (mm) (g/tex) (%) index (%) (number%) (neps/g)

(a)
Grey carded 4.6 0 29.1 20.84 6.02 8.12 30.1 89
Dyed carded 4.6 0 28.61 17.95 5.84 8.84 31.21 137
Grey semi- 4.6 11 29.24 21.1 6.11 6.54 22.78 49
combed
Dyed semi- 4.6 11 28.77 18.2 5.98 7.23 24.57 73
combed
Grey 4.6 22 29.32 21.31 6.12 6.2 18.12 14
combed
Dyed 4.6 22 28.85 18.43 5.98 6.48 21.51 23
combed
Grey 4.2 22 29.3 21.37 6.14 6.22 18.02 14
combed
Dyed 4.2 22 28.9 18.24 5.97 6.47 21.57 24
combed
Grey 3.8 22 29.35 21.4 6.15 6.18 18 15
combed
Dyed 3.8 22 28.8 18.05 5.97 6.53 22 26
combed
Shade Fineness Processing stage HVI (ICC mode) AFIS
depth (%) (mic.)
2.5% span Bundle Elongation Short fibre Short fibre Fibre neps
length (mm) strength (g/tex) (%) index (%) content (number%) (neps/g)

(b)
20 4.6 After mixing 29.05 20.12 6.1 6.3 19.12 18
45 4.6 After mixing 28.92 19.54 6.08 6.4 19.89 21
70 4.6 After mixing 28.88 18.61 6 6.43 20.23 24
20 4.6 After carding 28.82 20.06 6.08 6.38 19.5 19
45 4.6 After carding 28.75 19.46 6.05 6.45 20 22
70 4.6 After carding 28.8 18.52 5.95 6.58 20.61 28
20 3.8 After mixing 28.9 18.27 6.14 6.5 19.32 20
45 3.8 After mixing 28.7 17.8 6.05 6.6 19.92 23
70 3.8 After mixing 28.48 17.4 5.95 6.72 20.4 28
20 3.8 After carding 28.72 17.78 6.14 6.6 19.7 21
45 3.8 After carding 28.5 17.2 6.02 6.74 20.33 24
70 3.8 After carding 28.3 16.7 5.9 6.88 20.94 32

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 J. Inst. Eng. India Ser. E

Fig. 1 Process flow of melange

yarn manufacturing

different finenesses of cotton, noil extraction% and shade Uster Zweigle Friction Tester 5 following ASTM D-3108
depth%. All other spinning parameters were kept constant was used to measure the fibre to metal friction.
for all type of yarns. The motive behind varying factors is
to study the interaction effect of fibre properties, noil
extraction with the different shade depths. The design plan Results and Discussions
of the experiment is given in Table 3a. A total of 15 yarn
samples were produced according to Box–Behnken design In this study, the effect of fibre fineness, noil extraction and
shown in Table 3b. shade depth have been examined on the unevenness, IPI
values, hairiness, tenacity, breaking extension, abrasion
Testing Methods resistance (RRI) and coefficient of friction values of cotton
melange yarns.
The yarn samples have been conditioned at a standard An analysis of variance was done for finding the effect
atmospheric condition of 65 ± 2% RH and 20 ± 2 °C of all three factors on melange yarn properties. The
temperature for 24 h. ANOVA analysis of the parameters is given in Table 4.
The unevenness was measured on Uster Evenness Tes- From Table 4, it is clear that there is significant effect of
ter-5, which simultaneously measures the hairiness, thin noil extraction and shade depth on all yarn properties. Fibre
places (- 50%), thick place (? 50%) and neps (? 200%). fineness also shows significant effect on all yarn properties
Uster Tensorapid 4 was used to measure the tensile prop- except breaking extension and hairiness.
erties according to ASTM D-2256. The abrasion resistance
has been expressed in terms of the number of strokes Unevenness of Melange Yarn
required to rupture the yarns completely. The abrasion
resistance of the yarns was tested on yarn abrasion tester The graphical representation from Fig. 2 shows the effect
following ASTM D-4157. A sheet consisting of 20 yarns of fibre fineness and noil extraction on unevenness of
was kept pressed at constant tension, against the cylinder melange yarns for three different values of shade depth. It
wrapped with an abrader. The yarns were abraded by the is clear from Fig. 2 that unevenness of the yarns increases
cylinder surface, while it oscillates across the sheet at with increase in micronaire value of the cotton. This is due
constant speed and stops when all the yarns break. Relative to the fact that finer fibres ultimately lead to the more
resistance index (RRI) was used to compare the abrasion number of fibres in yarn cross section as compared to
resistance of yarns using the following formula [16]: coarser fibre. The more number of fibres in yarn cross
No of strokes  Pre tensionðgÞ section provides the better arrangement and doubling dur-
RRI ¼ pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi
Linear DensityðtexÞ ing the yarn formation results more uniform yarn.
As the noil extraction increases, reduction in unevenness
of melange yarns is observed. The extraction of higher noil

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J. Inst. Eng. India Ser. E

Table 3 (a) Experiment design plan, (b) Box–Behnken design plan

Sr. no. Factors Levels
-1 0 ?1

(a)
1 Fineness (mic.) 3.8 4.2 4.6
2 Noil extraction (%) 0 (carded) 11 (semi-combed) 22 (combed)
3 Shade depth (%) 20 45 70
Run Statistical design plan Actual design plan
Fibre fineness (mic.) Noil extraction (%) Shade depth (%) Fibre fineness (mic.) Noil extraction (%) Shade depth (%)

(b)
1 1 0 -1 4.6 11 20
2 0 1 1 4.2 22 70
3 -1 0 -1 3.8 11 20
4 0 0 0 4.2 11 45
5 0 0 0 4.2 11 45
6 0 -1 -1 4.2 0 20
7 -1 1 0 3.8 22 45
8 0 1 -1 4.2 22 20
9 1 1 0 4.6 22 45
10 0 0 0 4.2 11 45
11 1 0 1 4.6 11 70
12 0 -1 1 4.2 0 70
13 -1 0 1 3.8 11 70
14 -1 -1 0 3.8 0 45
15 1 -1 0 4.6 0 45

Table 4 ANOVA results for yarn properties

Factors Unevenness IPI Hairiness Tenacity Breaking extension Abrasion resistance Coefficient of friction

FF S (0.049) S (0.005) NS (0.217) S (0.0012) NS (0.836) S (0.002) S (0.0001)

NE S (0.0001) S (0.000) S (0.0000) S (0.0001) S (0.0000) S (0.0000) S (0.0000)
SD S (0.0169) S (0.0001) S (0.0062) S (0.0087) S (0.00002) S (0.0005) S (0.0000)
FF 9 NE NS (0.7234) NS (0.11) NS (0.49) NS (0.780) NS (0.5126) NS (0.426) NS (0.075)
FF 9 SD NS (0.9594) NS (0.15) NS (0.103) NS (0.858) NS (0.3694) S (0.0485) NS (1.00)
NE 9 SD NS (0.3409) NS (0.61) NS (0.92) NS (0.979) NS (0.2607) NS (0.8373) S (0.0065)
FF fibre fineness, NE noil extraction, SD shade depth, S significant, NS non-significant

at the comber stage leads to lesser short fibre in the yarn It is evident from Fig. 2 that unevenness of melange
which increases the availability of longer cotton fibre yarns increase with increase in shade depth of yarn. The
during the spinning. Long staple fibres form better con- process of dyeing leads to a greater entanglement of fibres
solidation and uniform yarn during spinning and create and fibre rupture. It is already observed in Table 2a, b that
more uniform yarn structure. On the other hand, the pres- poor properties of fibres are obtained after dyeing. The
ence of more short fibre leads to greater amplitude of ruptured fibres negatively affect the arrangement and dis-
drafting waves and hence mass irregularity. tribution of fibre in yarn cross section and results in
increase in unevenness.

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Fig. 2 Effect of fibre micronaire and noil extraction on unevenness

Total Imperfection of Melange Yarn Higher noil extraction also leads to reduction in total
imperfection level in melange yarn. Extraction of higher
The imperfection index (IPI) consists of thin, thick and noil results in reduction in short fibres which lead to
neps per unit length (km) of yarn. Figure 3 is the graphical reduction in drafting waves during the drafting operation.
representation which shows the effect of fibre micronaire Due to reduction in short fibres, control over the movement
and noil extraction on total imperfection at different levels of fibres is better and total imperfections reduce.
of shade depth. The analysis of variance (Table 4) suggests Total imperfections increase with increase in shade
that the total imperfection is significantly affected by the depth irrespective of fibre fineness and noil extraction. The
fibre micronaire, noil extraction and shade depth. proportion of dyed fibre is higher in the higher shade depth
It is observed from Fig. 3 that as the fibre becomes melange yarn. Dyeing changes the surface properties of the
coarser, the total imperfection in melange yarn increases. fibres. Fibre-to-fibre friction increases due to removal of
Coarser fibre results in the decreased number of fibres in natural wax. High fibre-to-fibre friction causes difficulties
cross section and hence results in increase in total imper- in the opening and drafting of fibres which ultimately leads
fections. It is also observed that thick and thin places to higher yarn imperfections for darker shades.
increase when yarn is made from coarser fibres, while neps
significantly decrease. Fine fibres for their low bending
rigidity are prone to bend and roll during spinning which
leads to high nep generation.

Fig. 3 Effect of fibre micronaire and noil extraction on total imperfection

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J. Inst. Eng. India Ser. E

Hairiness of Melange Yarn of fibre plays a vital role to decide tensile behaviour of
yarn. Low micronaire fibre provides more surface area of
The hairiness of a yarn is due to fibres protruding from the contact specific surface to the chemicals and dyes during
yarn surface. Figure 4 is the graphical representation of the scouring and dyeing. Higher specific surface area available
yarn hairiness with the change in fibre micronaire and noil leads great possibility of damaging and degrading the fine
extraction for three different shade depth melange yarns. fibres which results reduction in fibre strength after dyeing,
It is observed from Fig. 4 and Table 4 that the effect of mixing and carding. From Table 2a, b, it is also evident
fibre fineness on hairiness of melange yarn is insignificant. that there is higher reduction in the strength for 3.8
Statistical analysis also proves the insignificance of fibre micronaire fibre as compared to 4.6 micronaire fibre after
fineness. Higher extraction of noil leads to low hairiness in dyeing, mixing and carding. Hence, melange yarns made
the melange yarn. Low noil extraction leads to higher short from 3.8 micronaire fibres consist of more low strength
fibre content in the melange yarn. Short fibres have ten- fibres results low tenacity [12, 13].
dency to come out from yarn body and do not adhere with Higher extraction of noil leads to increase in tenacity of
the internal structure of melange yarn during twisting at melange yarns. Tenacity of melange yarns also decrease
ring frame. Control over the short fibres is also difficult with the increase in shade depth. Darker melange yarn
during drafting. Hence, the higher number of protruding consists of more number of dyed fibres. Dyed fibres are
fibres on the yarn surface results increases in the hairiness weaker as compared to undyed fibre. During initial loading,
of melange yarns. few weaker fibres may break and when loading is contin-
Hairiness of melange yarn increases with the increase in ued to rise, rupture of fibre increases. Further load-bearing
shade depth. During melange yarn formation, dyed fibres capacity of survival fibres declines and stress increases
are reprocessed which cause fibre damage and generation causing rupture to propagate faster across the cross sec-
of short fibres. The availability of more short fibres in high tion. On other hand, the weak dyed fibres are more prone to
shade depth yarn leads to high hairiness. It is already damage during the mechanical processing in spinning.
observed from Table 2a, b that chemical and mechanical Damaged fibre contributes very less in the yarn strength
processing of fibres cause short fibre generation. The and breaking extension. Dyeing of the fibres imparts lesser
ANOVA analysis suggests that the effect of noil extraction inter-fibre cohesion (stiffness) in the fibre which may be
and shade depth on the hairiness is significant. another reason for reduction in tenacity of melange yarn
[4, 11]. From Table 4, it is clear that the effect of fibre
Tensile Behaviour of Melange Yarn micronaire, noil extraction and shade depth on the tenacity
is statistically significant.
The effect of the fibre micronaire, noil extraction and shade It is observed from Fig. 6 and Table 4 that there is no
depth on tenacity and breaking extension is depicted in significant effect of fibre fineness on breaking elongation of
Figs. 5 and 6, respectively. melange yarns. Higher extraction of noil leads to increase
It is observed from Fig. 5 that tenacity of melange yarn in breaking extension in the melange yarn. High noil
increases with the increase in fibre micronaire. The fineness extraction increases the population of longer fibre.

Fig. 4 Effect of fibre micronaire and noil extraction on hairiness

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 J. Inst. Eng. India Ser. E

Fig. 5 Effect of fibre micronaire and noil extraction on tenacity of melange yarns

Fig. 6 Effect of fibre micronaire and noil extraction on breaking extension

Improvement in the length results more cohesive forces Surface Friction

during application of load. This factor led to an increase in
tenacity and breaking extension with increase in noil Basic yarn properties do not fully account for processing
extraction. performance and fabric quality. Yarn metal friction plays
It is evident from Fig. 6 that higher is the shade depth, vital role during knitting and weaving. The resistance to
lower is the breaking extension of melange yarns. Dyeing movement, characterised by the coefficient of friction is
causes reduction in strength of fibre. Weak dyed fibres are dependent on the nature of the two contacting surfaces and
more prone to damage during the mechanical processing in their actual area of contact. Fig. 7 is the graphical repre-
spinning. Damage fibre contributes very less in the yarn sentation which depicts the effect of fibre micronaire and
strength and breaking extension. It is clear from Table 2 noil extraction on the friction at different shade depth
that breaking extension is significantly affected by noil melange yarns.
extraction and shade depth, while the effect of fibre It is evident that the value of coefficient of friction is
micronaire is insignificant. higher for high depth melange yarn. The natural fibres have
a natural coating that act as lubricant layer. Grey cotton has
waxy layer contains pectin and proteinaceous materials.
The presence of this layer acts as a lubricating layer when
passed over the different surfaces. In dyeing process, the

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J. Inst. Eng. India Ser. E

Fig. 7 Effect of fibre micronaire and noil extraction on coefficient of friction

cotton fibre undergoes the scouring process which removes It is observed from Fig. 8 and Table 4 that the fibre
the waxy layer. Removal of cotton wax increases the micronaire, noil extraction and shade depth have significant
coefficient of friction, and rough surface underneath is influence on the level of abrasion resistance of melange
exposed. It is also observed from Fig. 7 that increase in yarns. The abrasion resistance (RRI) of yarn increases
fibre micronaire from 3.8 to 4.2 the coefficient of friction when noil extraction increases. This is due to the lesser
increases first, where the dominating factor is removal of number of short fibres in the yarn which results in better
natural waxes from dyed fibres surface. After crossing the binding in of fibres in the yarn. It is evident from results of
level of micronaire 4.2, the coefficient of friction value hairiness also that the high-noil-extraction yarn has less
reduces where dominating factor is reduction in the number protruding fibre on yarn surface. It results in increase in
of fibres in the yarn cross section due to coarse fibre hence tenacity and elongation at break of yarn. Abrasion resis-
lesser contact points with metal. tance depends upon tenacity as well as elongation of yarn
With the increase in noil extraction, the coefficient of [16]. It has been observed already that with the increase in
friction reduces as the yarn surface becomes smooth (de- noil extraction tenacity and elongation at break has
void of protruded fibre) due to less number of fibre [16]. increased, and it ultimately results in improvement in
This is due to reduction in short fibres at higher noil level. abrasion resistance of yarn.
Lower noil extraction causes more short fibre in the yarn. There is marginal increase in yarn abrasion resistance
The carded yarns have high diameter and bulkiness com- with the increase in fibre micronaire. The abrasion resis-
pared to combed yarn for same linear density [17]. Bulkier tance of yarn decreases with increase in dyed fibre pro-
yarn shows more compressible and more flattening beha- portion. As discussed earlier that the higher shade depth
viour, so the scope of flattening is more when passed over results in weakening of fibres, reduction in tenacity and
the any surface. It results in higher surface friction value. elongation at break values of yarns. This ultimately leads to
The ANOVA analysis also suggests the effect of fibre reduction in abrasion resistance of the yarn. Hence, high
micronaire, noil extraction and shade depth on friction is shade depth yarn has lesser abrasion resistance.
significant.

Abrasion Resistance Conclusion

Abrasion is the physical destruction of fibres, yarns and The experimental results revealed that the shade depth (%)
fabrics, resulting from the rubbing of a textile surface over and noil extraction (%) are the most significant parameters
another surface. Abrasion causes a continuous loss in the affecting mélange yarn quality. Reprocessing of dyed fibres
yarn through removal of outermost tiny fibrous material causes reduction in mean length, increase in short fibres
with the help of continuous frictional contact with other and neps. Strength of fibre is reducing up to 14% after
surface. The graphical representation of the effect of fibre dyeing. Following are the changes in yarn quality:
micronaire and noil extraction on abrasion resistance of
different shade depth melange yarns is shown in Fig. 8.

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Fig. 8 Effect of fibre micronaire and noil extraction on abrasion resistance

1. Unevenness of melange yarns increases with increase cotton. With the increase in dye shade percentage,
in shade depth of yarn and micronaire value of the abrasion resistance of melange yarn decreases.
cotton, whereas higher extraction of noil at comber
stage leads to more uniform yarns. Fibre micronaire,
noil extraction and shade depth have significant effect
on unevenness of melange yarns. References
2. As the fibre become coarser, the total imperfection in
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