15 10 15 Vineyards of Sydney_SA Symposium paper_Stuart Read.pdf

15 October AGHS 2015 Seminar – Adelaide Stuart Read Early vineyards and viticulture in the Sydney basin Abstract: South Australia and the Hunter Valley rightly herald their rich wine history, production prowess and international reputations. Perhaps overlooked are the sources of this and in particular, Sydney. Others such as ports of the Spanish and Portuguese world, en route to Australia, are remembered less than perhaps they deserve to be. This talk gives an overview of the 1788 introduction of grape vines into the colony of New South Wales, their dispersal and the fluctuating fortunes of growers, struggling to gain expertise and cope with new conditions. Key examples of sites and people are highlighted, including Governors, organisations and individuals. Early growers are outlined such as Gregory Blaxland of Brush Farm and properties in the Hunter, Sir John Jamison of Regentville, James Chisholm of Gledswood, Sir Charles Cowper of Wivenhoe and Dr. Robert Townsend of Varroville. Key distributing nurseries are noted, such as that of Thomas Shepherd of the Darling Nursery, Camden Park under William Macarthur and the Sydney Bota i Ga de s extensive collection of varieties, several hundred originally donated by James Busby. While mildew, humidity and urbanization put paid to most vineyards in the Sydney basin, it retains traces of viticulture on its western margins. This Cumberland Plain provided cuttings and plants that established successful and longer-lived industries in all other Australian states. Paper: Due to time constraints, this is but an introduction – a skimming of the grape must if you will - to a large topic that continues to inspire research and writing. The paper slows at 1840 (by which time the Hunter Valley had some 30 ea s atu i g) and stops at 1850. By then all southern states had established wine industries. It focuses on New South Wales and particularly on the Sydney basin and early Hunter Valley plantings. From here originated all other states i dust ies: New South Wales both provided initial grape vines or cuttings to all or most other colonies and provided ulk suppl of sufficient plants to enable commercial scale planting, through both its nurseries and botanic garden. That of course is not to say that migrants landing, say, in South Australia did not bring cuttings and plants directly from other ports. Between the First Fleet s a i al i a d Bus s olle tio of varieties of grapes being donated to the Sydney Botanic Garden (for wide distribution), a steady stream of grape varieties were brought into the colony. Some came from the Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew, others from France, Germany, Spain, Portugal, Madeira and the Cape of Good Hope (Seton Wilkinson 5, 5). My focus is history, not exhaustive analysis of grape varieties – time precludes this. There is a limit to what a 25 minute paper can cover. It summarises the research and writing work of many, done over decades – I offer no new research, just synthesis. My focus is where and who – particularly the latter. Who were key people of influence and what were key early dates, both in the Sydney basin from 1798 and Hunter Valley from the 1810s and more-so, the 1820s. Some writers such as Don Seton Wilkinson are putting right the perhaps disproportionate amount of renown people such as James Busby, Gregory Blaxland or William Macarthur have assumed, pointing up others deserving more credit. Such as Governor Phillip, Philip Schaeffer, Sir John Jamison, nurseryman Thomas Shepherd, growers George Wyndham and James King in the lower Hunter. Another focus is conservation – only a scatter of early vineyards remain in the Sydney basin today (the oldestsurviving continuous one being Vi a s at Luddenham, established in 1918, which closed in November 2015), the earlier ones all having disappeared to ongoing subdivision and urbanization. Similar has occurred and continues in the lo e Hu te . W dha s Dalwood estate at B a to is Aust alia s oldest su i i g o ti uousl -operating vineyard, albeit owned now by French giant Pernod-‘i a d a d u as W dha Estate . All the other early Hunter plantings have disappeared and morphed position, scale and ownership over the century since. This industry and its palpable origins and remains deserve closer scrutiny. Origin and global spread of grapes: The ulti atio of the i e dates to a ie t ti es; perhaps from near the Turkish / Iranian border through Anatolia to Syria and Palestine by 5000 BC or earlier. Vine seeds have been found in early Bronze Age sites at Jericho, Lachish...and Mesopotamia. The grape was introduced by Phoenician galleys west, north and to Egypt, where the first evidence of wine making in 4000 BC survives (Buck). It figures prominently in Greek, Roman literature and the Bible. The Greeks were the first to study viticulture in detail: pruning, selecting cultivars, the role of soils and how to mature wine (RHSD/Hortus, in www.hortuscamden.com e t o Vitis i ife a ). Rome spread vines across its empire. It learnt more on improving growing standards from its colonies. Romans adapted wine growing to Italy, popularising wine as a drink of the masses (Buck). By the 5th century BC Italy exported very large amounts of wine. In that era the vine was established in southern Spain and southern France, later North Africa which, by the 3rd century, began to supplant Italian trade. The spread of viticulture north continued under Roman influence. By AD 600 all climatically favourable areas of France...had established vines. Within 200 years it reached Germany and southern Britain. (Its) slow progress can probably be explained by ‘o e s igid laws restricting planting to cereals and essential foods (RHSD/Hortus, in www.hortuscamden.com e t o Vitis i ife a ). In the Dark Ages and Renaissance the church led vine planting and production for its rituals. Monastic orders refined viticulture. As Spain colonized South America, the vine was introduced ... In 1817 Hernan Cortes ordered Mexican land owners to plant vines – 1000 pe ea pe I dia s o the la d. O e p odu tio i aled “pai s it was restricted but by then grapes were in Californian missions (Buck). In North America, early efforts in the east foundered on the ravages of Phylloxera vasterix, an aphid. This was absent in California... where vineyards flourished. Vigorous Californian vines became rootstocks on to which phylloxera-susceptible European vines were grafted in the late 19th century [and Australia], saving the great European vineyards from extinction. At about that time, European vines were cross-pollinated with American cultivars producing phylloxera-resistant hybrids. These are widely grown today, though some believe the grapes are of lesser quality than their European ancestors (RHSD/Hortus, in www.hortuscamden.com e t o Vitis i ife a ). Ports of call to Australia for the first and subsequent fleets meant stocking up on provisions, including cuttings of vines: The islands of Madeira, Tenerife, the Cape of Good Hope and Rio de Janeiro all provisioned the first fleet in 1788 and later ones. Madeira led the wine market in the 1850s until mildew (Oidium sp.) and vine louse (Phylloxera) all but wiped out its crops, leading to port and sherry dominating the wine trade within a decade (Dingle). The g ape a iet Madei a as i po ted to Aust alia i Geo ge “utto fo “i Joseph Ba ks, to Sydney Botanic Garden (McIntyre, 2012, 224). Cape To s Constantia vineyard (one vineyard in 1679 under Governor Simon van der Stel, later a whole district) was a fertile source of plants and cuttings. Cape Governor Jan van Riebeck had first planted a vineyard in 1659 and from 1688 Huguenot migrants firmly established the Cape s viticulture industry (Buck). Hendrik Cloete bought Constantia i a d de eloped the fa ous Co sta tia i e, a le d of Mus at Bla a Petits G ai s , Mus at of Ale a d ia , Po ta a d Che i Bla “tee . It is reasonable to conclude these varieties were among utti gs take o oa d the fi st fleet. The e is e e ha e “e illo G ee g ape/g oe d uif as also i luded – by 1822 it was the most common variety planted, some 93% of Cape vines (Seton Wilkinson 5, 3). Lo do s Colo ial Offi e had e isaged “ d e to e a pote tiall p odu ti e li ate fo i e g apes. Horticulturist George Suttor recalled that grape cultivation and its probable success in Australia was the focus of his meeting with the Board of Trade in London in 1798 (Morris, 2008, 47). Governor Phillip had picked up samples on the voyage, stopping at Tenerife, Rio de Janeiro and the Cape. He had grape cuttings planted in three gardens established to the east of Sydney Cove (Morris, 2008, 22; Newling (2), 1). Others were perhaps on Garden Island. More were soon planted at Parramatta (Morris, 2008, 22). Lt. David Collins recorded: A portable canvas house was brought over for the Governor and erected on the east side of the Co e…So e g ou d ha i g ee p epa ed ea …the pla ts f o ‘io-de-Janeiro and the Cape of Good Hope were safely brought on shore in a few days and we soon had the satisfaction of seeing the grape, the fig, the o a ge, the pea a d the apple taki g oot… His garden was noted for fruits including vines from November 1788 onwards. Vines flanked the path from close to Circular Quay th ough the su siste e ga de pla ted u de He Dodd to the Go e o s f o t gate M I t e, 2012, 43). Government House “ d e s ga de as p odu ti e fo the Go e o s ta le: ilita ows held food producing plants (Morris, 2008, 22). An April 1788 convict-d a ap of the settle e t sho s fou ga de a eas Fo kes . I a a ou t i The Vo age of Go e o Phillip to Bota Ba pu lished i Lo do oted i te alia that the Go e o s …vines are improving still more rapidly (Erlich, 1987-8, 45). Pa a atta s The Crescent from 1788 on rich alluvial soil was the most successful Government Farm under the supervisor of convict labour (and experienced farmer), Henry Dodd. It grew wheat, corn and vines amongst other crops. Captain Watkin Tench in 1791 noted 8000 vines there, all of which in another season are expected to bear grapes (Seton Wilkinson 5, 4). In 1802 there were 5000 more in The Crescent. Tench recorded in 1791: On the 24 Ja ua , t o u hes of g apes e e ut i the Go e o s (3 ½ acre) garden from cuttings of vines, brought three years before from the Cape of Good Hope... (ibid, 4; Erlich, 1987-8, 45). th Two months later, John Macarthur wrote from Sydney: The Governor sent me some bunches this season as fine as any I ever tasted, and there is little doubt that in a very few years there will be plenty (ibid, 4). At the close of 1791 Phillip wrote to Sir Joseph Banks in England: I had two or three bunches of grapes the year before last, and last year several good bunches: at present the old vines in my garden are loaded with very fine fruit (McIntyre, 2012, 46). Lt. ‘oss s Observations on Norfolk Island in December, 1790 noted: From 8 grape vines which I found in His Majest s ga de , a d 2 I found in Lt. C es ell s, the e a e utti gs pla ted, a d all of the a e i a flou ishi g condition; and last August, His Excellency the Governor-in-Chief sent 250 cuttings from Port Jackson, all of which are thriving equally well…, a d so e of the old sto ks ha e f uit this ea , o ha e I a dou t ut the hole ill ea f uit the e t ea …i a sho t ti e, the a e po t i e f o this island (Seton Wilkinson 5, 4). Phillip introduced (what we now call) Semillon grape (then alled g ee g ape/groendruif, later, “hephe d s ‘iesli g/Hu te ‘iesli g …to Sydney and Parramatta (Seton Wilkinson 5, 2-3). Philip Schaeffer, son of a German farmer and vigneron, had been superintendent of convicts, teaching them to farm (McIntyre, 2007, 9). His poor English meant he resigned and was given a grant of 140 acres at Rydalmere, near Rosehill, by Phillip. This was by far the largest such grant at the time, most being 20-60 acres (ibid, 13). On 7 December 1791 Tench reported: His vines, 900 in number, are flourishing, and will, he supposes, bear fruit next year. In 1792 Phillip sent wine to England (Aust alia s first export, decades before the more-celebrated Gregory Blaxland (Seton Wilkinson 5, 4-5; McIntyre, 2012, X). Phillip requested trained vineyard workers be sent from London: none were. The two French prisoners-of-war believed to be vignerons were sent who arrived under Governor King had no relevant experience (Dunstan, 2002, 620). It is likely that the first successful wine-making (rather than just table grapes) was by Schaeffer at The Vineyard (McIntyre, 2012, X) in 1792 (Seton Wilkinson 2, 1). B “ haeffe s i es e e ea i g a d Pate so ad ised Banks that Schaeffer had made ninety Gallons of wine in about two years now (McIntyre, 2007, 16; McIntyre, 2012, 48; Seton Wilkinson 5, 5). The Vineyard was painted by Conrad Martens in the 1830s. Tench (7/12/1791) reported that Schaeffer had an acre in vines, 900 in number, flourishing, and will, he supposes, bear fruit next year (Seton Wilkinson 5, 4). In 1795 Schaeffer had the first record of wine made (Lt. Paterson told Banks that Schaeffer had made 90 gallons of wine in about two years) in NSW and it is likely he that made the wine Phillip sent to Banks four years prior to this (Seton Wilkinson 5, 5; McIntyre, 2012, 48). Likely problems with wine production, spoiling and vine blight (a noted problem at the Government Farm nearby), Schaeffer sold The Vineyard in 1797 and moved to a lease of 60 acres at the Field of Mars (McIntyre, 2007, 16). Phillip left in December 1792 (Seton Wilkinson 5, 5) and it fell to interested settlers to take up the challenge of viticulture. The Government encouraged this by holding an enthusiastically-run competition to produce the first drinkable wine. The Macarthurs grew grapes from 1793 at Parramatta where Elizabeth Farm was the main base of the family: John noted in a letter to his brother James in London: I have built a house surrounded by a vineyard and garden of c. 3 acres (Simon, 6). Elizabeth wrote to a friend in 1794 that she had an excellent brick house surrounded by about 3 acres of vineyard and garden, with the vineyard full of vines and fruit trees (Seton Wilkinson 5, 5). Closer to Sydney, Lt. Colo el Joh sto s Annandale farm from 1793+ (Norrie (1)) and his able convict wife, Esther Abrahams was cultivating vines for table grapes (Morris, 2008, 36). Paterson reported to Banks that by 1800 the cultivation of the Vine has been totally neglected... there are not so many more as there was in the year 1796 (McIntyre, 2007, 16). In 1802 Francois Peron (who was o Baudi s -4 expedition) wrote of the vast Parramatta garden of the Ki g s Botanist George Caley: (a) g eat u e of useful pla ts ulti ated i it…i te esti g e pe i e ts a e ade…. It is pleasing today to see some interpretation in Parramatta Park of the straight crop lines of the Government Fa o the Pa a atta ‘i e s o the i e a k. These a e a oss the i e f o The Crescent on roughly the site of Geo ge Cale s hut a d ga de . Joh Pal e s Woolloomooloo farm, shown in a sketch of 1803+ had a vineyard, clearly visible in an 1838 plan and comprising 20,000 vines in 1835. Peron believed Australia would eventually enable Britain to stop buying wine from France, Spain & Portugal th altogether (Dunstan, 2002, 620). The UK was spending millions of pounds in the 18 century importing wines and had no native industry. John Macarthur thought Australia could supply Britain with wool and wine to fill a trade blockade with Napoleonic Wars. Norrie ((2), 1, 2) credits Macarthur as being father of the Australian wine industry, having established the olo s se o d p i ate i e a d a ou d Elizabeth Farm in 1793. John and his son William Macarthur both here and from 1807 at Camden Park, South Camden / Menangle made experimental plantings. From 1808 Joh s ife Elizabeth & nephew, Hannibal Macarthur managed the Sydney estates in his exile after the Rum Rebellion. John, keen to improve his reputation to allow his return to NSW, had embarked on a tour of France and Switzerland in 1815 with his sons William & James, studying grape growing and wine making (McIntyre, 2011, 44). They returned on the Lord Eldon i ia Madei a, he e so e of the o ld s fi est i es e e the ade (collecting more cuttings), bringing these back to Sydney (Mills; Morris, 2008, 47; McIntyre, 2012, X). These i luded Bu gu d o o l the alled Cla et g ape , sou e of ost of the olo s ed i e: possi l Cape Po ta ; Mille s Bu gu d Meu ie , Pi ot Meu ie , “ h a tz iesli g ; F e h Gouais ; Bla k Po tugal o Opo to ; a d “ eet ate (all in 1817: McIntyre, 2012, 224). They planted two vineyards, one on a family farm on the Nepean River at Penrith (1820: Norrie (2), 2) and the other at Camden Park (Buck). In time William found that the London nursery entrusted with their collection had switched cutting types, not the first instance of horticultural bastardry – but this minor setback was temporary (Morris, 2008, 47). Me ha t shippe ‘o e t Ca p ell olle ted Bla k & White Mus adelle i the Cape of Good Hope, bringing these to Sydney in 1805 (Seton Wilkinson 5, 7; McIntyre, 2012, 224). Dr. Robert Townson at Varroville, Campbelltown (planted after 1811: Norrie (1), Everett (2001, 4) says 1812), Schaeffer and subsequent owners of The Vineyard, Rose Hill and Gregory Blaxland at Brush Farm, Eastwood all had sizable vineyards (Morris, 2008, 47). To so s Varroville was described as the finest orchard in the colony and a i e a d se o d o l to G ego Bla la d s. He had done a study tour of Hungary including observing Tokay wine production closely (McIntyre, 2012, 54). Shadows at the right time of day on Va o ille s north-western hill slopes show possible vineyard terraces on sloping land. Unfortunately much of this estate lacks any heritage listing and belongs to developers currently seeking rezoning for a new cemetery! North of Sydney, John Tucker Junior on his permissive occupancy farm at Albion Farm, Woodville (north-east of Maitland) had perhaps the first Hunter River grant (confirmed 1823) outside Newcastle and amongst other endeavours (red cedar, cattle, sheep, 60 acres cultivated) had perhaps the first vineyard in the Hunter, some 12 acres from c.1812. Wi e f o he e tasted isiti g Go e o Ma ua ie i as dee ed fai . A surviving slab barn (c.1818-22) retains an underground brick domed cellar for storing wine (Redman). In Sydney, Bla la d s Brush Farm, bought off William Cox and developed from 1816 at Eastwood / Ryde had a noted vineyard. Blaxland brought cuttings from several ports including Cape Town, where he had observed grape cultivation on his emigration in 1805-6. He tested varieties for performance for wine-making (McIntyre, 2012, 60), pulli g ost out due to light sus epti ilit , e ept fo Bu gu d Pi ot Noi a d Mille s Bu gu d Pi ot Meu ie . He o ed his i e a d lose to the house a d pla ted t o a ieties hi h he thought Cla et g apes. These e e p o a l Pi ot Noi a d Pi ot Meu ie “eto Wilki so 5, 6): Dunstan (2002, 621) suggests “hi az ). He raised 200 new vines from seed, a common practice then (McIntyre, 2012, 61). Blaxland subsequently se t a a el of i e to Ma ua ie i hi h as de la ed little ette tha ate !) and another which was deemed much better (Buttrey; Blaxland; Driscoll; Dunstan, 2002, 621). In 1819 Gregory had published A Statement on the Progress of the Culture of the Vine- the first Australian book on wine-growing (Blaxland; Buttrey). He sent two papers to the Royal Society in London in 1822 for its library (Driscoll). He exported 86 gallons (two casks) of red wine in 1822 which was given a silver medal by Lo do s Royal Society of the Arts, Manufactures and Commerce (McIntyre, 2012, 61). He could be said to be the first commercial wine grower in NSW. In 1826-7 he took a pipe (105 gallons) of wine to London which won the gold medal from the same body s a a ds (Morris, 2008; Buttrey). Blaxland also experimented with blight-resistant varieties. Bla k Co sta tia , a Muscat variety was found most suitable and Cla et “hi az? (Blaxland; Buttrey; Dunstan, 2002, 621). Brush Farm House today survives and pleasingly has provision for a s all g ape i e displa at the house s rear for interpretation purposes. Colonial Secretary Alexander Macleay from the 1820s was cultivating 54 acres of his estate at Elizabeth Bay, a decade before he built his renowned house. He has been credited with introducing within a year or two of his ar i al of a ou d pla ts i Aust alia s fi st e sus of e oti spe ies, i ludi g op spe ies su h as se e al grape and citrus cultivars (Gilbert). His extensive kitchen garden included a vineyard with ta le g apes quite o pa a le ith Eu ope s fi est . Ma lea s so Geo ge o ked losel ith Ja es a d Willia Ma a thu to establish a productive vineyard at Brownlow Hill, Orangeville, not far from Camden Park. The former produced wine grapes from the 1840s including Madeira (Verdelho), red, white and black Muscat (Muscat) and Riesling (Newling (1), 2). Fo the pu pose of pla ti g the ou g i es al ead ooted, holes a e to e ade …at a dis etio a dista e of about 2 and a half or 3 feet open from each vine, and some mould or old turf must be lai ou d the foot of ea h… The vines should be carefully pruned or thinned about three thrice during the season, by clearing away all the exuberant shoots from the body, which deprive the young shots round the root of the vine, as they diminish the vigour of the ai t u k… (1803, Sydney Gazette & NSW Advertiser, , & Ma h issues, Method of P epa i g a Pie e of La d fo the Pu pose of fo i g a Vi e a d t a slated f o the F e h “i o , . The fact that Howe on the back page of the first newspaper in Australia (Sydney Gazette …, 5 March 1803) published an article on laying out a vineyard, cultivating grapes and making wine indicates strong interest among settlers. In 1810 Rev. Samuel Marsden (perhaps a better farmer than priest?) planted grapes on his land north of the Parramatta River (now Cumberland Hospital: Tatrai, 44). He had also grapes at his Parramatta farm pre-1796 and his Mamre farm at St. Marys by 1819 (Norrie (1)). Between 1800 and 1810 vines extended west to Castle Hill, (Gover o Bligh s daughte Ma Putla d s Orange Grove at St. Marys (Penrith: Norrie (1)) and south-west to Campbelltown. From 1810- the ossed Weste “ d e s Cu e la d Plai f o East ood/‘ de to ‘i h o d and Windsor, Emu Plains on the Hawkesbury-Nepean ‘i e s a ks M I t e, , X . By 1825 vineyards were planted in the Rooty Hill area further west at Minchinbury (Captai Willia Mi hi s vineyard in the 1830s (Mackinnon, 1982, 65) and Hawkesbury (Simon, 8). In the 1820s vines extended south to Camden, west to Bathurst (c.1829) and north to the Hunter Valley along the fertile flats of the Hunter, Paterson and William rivers (McIntyre, 2012, XI, 176, 178). D Ja es Bo a s estate Lyndhurst at Glebe had extensive vineyards by 1823. Horsley at Horsley Park / Fairfield had them established in 1832 (NHWGGA/Norrie (1)). Alexander Riley who owned Raby, Catherine Field, while ette k o fo fi e sheep, se t ‘ed He itage “hi az to “ d e i a d Pa se a aisi g ape Mus atel from Marseilles a d White He itage No ie (2), 1). Camden Park and grapes post 1820… (Mills) From 1820 William was managing Camden Park estate & the fa il s Penrith vineyards. By 1827 these were making 27,000 gallons of wine with Camden Park contributing 20,000 of those (Buck; Everett, 2004, 6). Camden Park over time had three vineyards (this, from an 1851 pamphlet for the Great Exhibition, London) 1) 1820, after acquiring familiarity of vine cultivation in France and Switzerland. Fruited in 1824 but after many experiments & experience, it was abandoned (McIntyre, 2011, 47) – the wine did not answer expectation (McIntyre, 2012, 59); 2) c.1830 of o. s best vines transferred to new site, after deep trenching its soil; c 22 acres on a natural te a e, o igi all allu ial oots fou d deep… . M I t e , otes that Bla k Ha u gh as cultivated for many years at Camden Park from c.1829; 3) c.1840 on a different site and soil: part of the slope of a hill, re-formed into terraces... (ibid, 2012, 59). In 1841 William won gold medals for his wine, in the 1830s sent 34,000 cuttings to South Australia (NHWGGA/Norrie (1); Everett, 2001, 6). While a group of Adelaide citizens had subscribed funds to import an important collection of vine cuttings from the Cape in 1840, Ca de Pa k s nursery supplied most vines for early th vineyards in Victoria and South Australia during the second quarter of the 19 century (Simon, 5). He ote o h do t e see ou hills lothed ith i es…a d i e the o o e e age of e e lass i the community?): The reply is simple and obvious; it is owing to the almost entire absence of practical acquaintance with its details. Had our Home Government fulfilled its duty, there would have been conveyed to our shores, during the prevalence of the Bounty System of Emigration, two or three hundred families of German, Swiss, or French vine d esse s… The olo has ee ost unfortunately with respect to the sorts of vines, which, up to a comparatively e e t pe iod, e e i t odu ed… (William Macarthur, On the Culture of the Vine, Fermentation, and the Management of Wine in the Cellar, 1844: quoted in Simon, 135). In 1844 William began selling bottled Camden wine in Sydney under his own label. He sent wine to India, but it did not travel well. He created a new vineyard, established an agent to sell plant stock including cuttings in Melbourne, and confirmed sales of altar wine to the Catholic Church in New South Wales (McIntyre, 2012, 155). William (titled Ma o ote a ti les in The Australian in 1844 on cellar design amongst a series of others published as a book Letters on the Culture of the Vine, Fermentation, and the Management of Wine in the Cellar (Mills, Driscoll). In 1845 Camden Park estate vintaged 10,000 gallons (Everett, 2001, 6). From then it had an overseas reputation. 55 grape varieties are described in Hortus Camdenensis, an illustrated online catalogue of plants grown in Camden Pa k s garden and sold through its nursery between the 1820s and 1860s. All of these varieties were listed in its nursery catalogues. They included 13 table grape cv.s, 7 table + wine cultivars, and 35 wine cultivars. Phylloxera would wipe out its vines in 1884. The house s e pa si e ella s still hold ottles of the estate s wine today (Mills; Driscoll). Joh B u hhause s i es at Elderslie was but one of Camden Park estate s / Ge a i e d esse s…Joha Stein and three other vintners, Johann Beckhaus, Johann Jurg and Johnan Stumpf served here from 1837-50s+ (NHWGGA/Norrie (1); Everett, 2003, 4; Lewis, 11; McIntyre, 2011, 48; McIntyre, 2012, 75). In 1838 the first BritishGovernment-sponsored migration of non-British labourers to NSW was of six vine-dressers from pre-unification Germany and their fa ilies, to o k i Ja es a d Willia Ma a thu s i e a ds M I t e, , XI . John Macarthur can be credited with introducing the first Riesling pla ts to Aust alia – although only two plants survived of 1000 rooted vines he imported from the Rhine, via England, with his second group of assisted-migrant vine-dressers. From these two plants, many cuttings supplied all Australian colonies (McIntyre, 2012, 69). Sir John Ja iso s Regentville south of Penrith (he claimed to have been cultivating vines here from 1817 (Morris & Britton, 2001, 107)/1825 (McIntyre, 2012, 70)/1826) had dramatically terraced hills using river stones carrying 3040,000 vines in upwards of 200 varieties O B ie ; Norrie (3), 122-124). Jamison used skilled Madeiran workers (from 1826: Norrie (3), 122) and German ( ‘he ish o ‘hi e) vigneron F.A.Meyer from 1830 to lay out more (ibid, 122; Morris (2008), 51). He g e White “ eet Wate g apes a d e ei ed utti gs f o the Sydney Botanic Garden (ibid, 2008, 51). This was an early example using skilled foreign labour (Driscoll). Twenty years later in 1847 o e a doze i e s ui es e ei ed pe issio to i po t Ge a o ke s i e d esse s, oope s, i emakers): among them Henry Carmichael, Andrew Lang, Alfred Glennie, James Bettington, Charles Cowper, William Lawson and Henry Lindeman (McIntyre, 2012, 76). A sketch by artist Conrad Martens clearly shows ‘ege t ille s wine terraces. 2003 bushfires showed these survive under thickly regenerating wattle, lantana and eucalypts. I Ja iso s e ella held gallo s of i e i asks a d a othe e e a ti ipated i that ea s i tage. Bus des i ed Ja iso s i e as very tolerable (McIntyre, 2012, 70). By 1840 Regentville was the largest vineyard in the colony (Liston, 2) and when put up for sale in 1847 had about 7 acres of terraced vines (Morris, 2008, 52) and two and a half of field vineyards (Morris & Britton, 2001, 108). Jamison was president of the Agricultural Society (formed in 1822) and led it once united with the Horticultural Society from 1826 (Morris & Britton, 2001, 106). He was o the o ittee epo ti g to the go e e t o the p og ess of Bus s i e collection in 1833-4, at which stage it was doing well (ibid). From 1823 the Society gave prizes for wine and sherry (McIntyre, 2012, 157). By 1833 Meyer was offering his services to any cultivator wishing aid in pruning grapes and promoting viticulture, espe iall ith Bla k Ha u gh , Opo to , White Gouais , Ti ta a d Madei a g apes D is oll . Co issio e Bigge s 1823 audit epo t o Ma ua ie s ad i ist ation was enthusiastic about grapes and olives, causing cultivation to be promoted and grow. By the end of 1827 there were many varieties of both in the Sydney Botanic Gardens collection, for distribution to growers (Morris, 2008, 47). Thomas (later a Sir) Mitchell was encouraged by Ca de Pa k s success by 1827 to establish a vineyard on his ten a e Da li ghu st idge Ki g s C oss estate, Craigend. He would create another on his country estate, Parkhall (now St. Ma s To e s) at East Bargo (Douglas Park). Over 7000 cuttings were bought from the Macarthurs (McIntyre, 2011, 53; McIntyre, 2012, 73). Madeira grape vines were planted (c.1842) and in 1844 management handed over to Frenchman, Jea d Au e g e, the fi st i tage ei g i . Mit hell t a elled to “outhe “pai inspecting vineyards and published an 1849 book on the subject (Everett, 2004, 6, 7; McIntyre, 2011, 53). Societies and Companies: corporate entities: Agricultural & Horticultural Society, 1822+: Aust alia s oldest su h so iet as esta lished a d gai ed a ess to a site on the Parramatta ‘i e s o the a k diago all opposite Go e e t House a d the C es e t – for an e pe i e tal f uit ga de . The e e s propagated and distributed vines & fruit varieties amongst themselves – they were all major farmers and pillars of the early colonial establishment such as Jamison, Macarthur and their gentlemen friends. I Captai Bell o the Mi e a ought a ieties of i es, so e utti gs, f o the Cape to the Sydney Botanic Garden, in excellent condition. The government intended to distribute them to interested i di iduals. The i luded Po ta , ed a d hite Mus atel White Mus at of Ale a d ia a d Mus at Bla a Petits G ai s , “tee , la ge a d o di a “tee Che i Bla , ate a d ed ho epote Mus at Go do Bla o / Le ia , F o tig a B o Mus at , Ch stal , Pe sia , g ee g ape Cape Colo g ape / “e illo and ordinary honepoten (Sydney Gazette and NSW Advertiser, 16/12/1824, in Seton Wilkinson 5, 6-7). McIntyre , otes that White Mus at of Ale a d ia Brisbane in 1825. as se t Lo d Cha les “o e set f o the Cape to Go e or The Australian Agricultural Company gathe ed a ieties of i es f o the UK Ho ti ultu al “o iet s Ga de at Chiswick, London and imported these in 1825, starting a vineyard at their Port Stephens property, at Carrington. It was not a long-lived venture but was thriving in 1849 (Driscoll). These included Ti ta o Ti tilla , Wa tage , Ve delho / Ve delet Madei a g ape and No. – Muscat Rouge (/ ‘ed Muscadelle (McIntyre, 2012, 225) Red Frontignac was William Ma a thu s des iptio , iti g u de the pseudo Maro , i 1844 of this grape):  more delicate in its habit than either of the two [Muscat Gris and Muscat Noir] & rather less productive. • F uit, he • Subject to the blight. (Mills). ipe ed … ight eddish o a d e highl flavoured. English landscape designer and nurseryman, Thomas Shepherd arrived in 1827 and in 1828 esta lished N“W s first (not counting George Suttor selling Citrus and other fruit trees in Sydney from c.1800) commercial nursery, the Darling Nursery, i toda s Chippe dale, adjoining Grose Farm i “ d e s i e -west. He endured drought the first two years, observing some grape vines green and lush in spite of it: others withered. Shepherd propagated this lush vine in a small vineyard (Crittenden, 1992, 67), distributing it in the 1840s in the Hunter. This proved to be Semillon , the now famous grape variety of the Hunter. Then it was popularly alled “hephe d s ‘iesli g , o Hu te ‘iesli g . The original NSW source of this grape variety was Governor Phillip in 1791 and Charles Fraser of Sydney Botanic Garden and William Macarthur of Camden Park also got it from the Botanic Garden, from cuttings off the Mi e a hi h a i ed in 1824 (Seton Wilkinson 5, 10; McIntyre, 2012, 65). *Thomas Shepherd Bacchus o Blight or ilde s cause? A e theo … latel pu lished a pe so of u dou ted ho ti ultu al e pe ie e, ut it is a uestio hethe his sta di g … o …o se atio ha e ee su h as to warrant his arriving at a conclusion, which in my opinion may be called rather hasty. Bacchus goes on to discuss an alternative theory: o asio ed the su s a s upo the de d ops…The u e is of the first importance, and Mr. Shepherd having discovered southerly winds to be the cause, pursues a most o siste t ou se… ulti ati g a elt of pla tatio et ee the i e a d a d the south, to shelte i es f o the … i ds …keep up te pe atu e, a d a o se ue t o sta t p og ess of egetatio ”. He entered into correspondence in The Sydney Gazette on the topic of viticulture and in particular the cause of blight in vines (Annable, 1999, 5). Shepherd was active in promoting a wine industry, giving public lectures on grape cultivation (Morris, 2008, 55) and supplying cuttings. Four of his lectures were published in the Sydney Gazette and posthumously all were published (Crittenden, 2002, 549: Seton Wilkinson 5, 8). He helped Busby with his second (1830) book (Seton Wilkinson 5, 8). The Sydney Gazette i o “hephe d s death printed: To Mr Shepherd is chiefly to be ascribed the extended cultivation of the vine in this colony; which has also been greatly p o oted the zeal of M Ja es Bus …of hose e e tio s M Shephe d as a a ad i e Shepherd was, like Busby, early to commit to print, thus extending the reach and duration of practical and useful knowledge of both cultivation and manufacture of grapes and wine (Driscoll; Crittenden, 1992, 69-72, 132). The only documented landscape design by Shepherd was at Darling Point: Mount Adelaide estate 1833-7 - a terraced vineyard he laid out for businessman, William McDonald. This tumbled down the eastern flank to Double Bay and was sketched by Georgiana Lowe of Bronte House (Crittenden, 2002, 550; Annable, 1999, 3; Morris, 2008, 53, 55). While not by Shepherd, John Eyre Manning, Registrar of the Supreme Court, established a vineyard above Rushcutters Bay in 1833, later called The Terraces hi h appea s to e toda s Scottish Hospital site), which may ha e supplied the We t o th fa il s Vau luse House s cellars (Musecape, Driscoll). James Busby: father / catalyst of the industry In 1823 Scotsman Busby, who had studied agriculture in England and lived in Cadillac, France, over the river from famous wine districts of Sauternes, Barsac and Preignac (McIntyre, 2012, 63) was abreast of a House of Lords report on trade drawing attention to the demand for wine for British India. The voyage from New South Wales to India was shorter than that from Europe (ibid, 2012, 63). Busby o side ed Ne “outh Wales ould eet I dia s demand for wine and wrote his 1st book on viticulture on his 5 month voyage to Sydney via the Cape (and Constantia) with his family (ibid, 2012, 63). By 1824 he was teaching viticulture at Male Orphan School, Cabramatta o Bo igg i “ d e s south-west. In 1824 he received a grant in the Upper Hunter, he called Kirkton (Birmingham, 1982, 33). He never lived there, working at Cabramatta at the Orphan School until 1827 then in Sydney until 1829. From 1828 his brother-in-law Willia Kel a a i ed f o Va Die e s La d a d took up clearing the land and running Kirkton (Simon, 10; Seton Wilkinson 5, 11; Birmingham, 1982, 33). Its grapes would appear to date from 1829 and their origin, the Sydney Botanic Garden (Seton Wilkinson 5, 11). lit es of Ki kto s i tage as dist i uted i Lo do , where it was pronounced very promising (Birmingham, 1982, 33). st In 1825 Bus s 1 book: Treatise on the culture of the vine/ art of making wine was published. Due to its lofty tone and musings on esoteric points of wine making in Europe it was roundly criticised as useless to the olo s struggling growers - little practical help for growing and tending (McIntyre, 2012, 64). His second book in 1830, prepared with a great deal of help from nurseryman Thomas Shepherd, was far more practical - A Manual of Plain Directions for planting and cultivating a vineyards and for making wine in NSW (McIntyre, 2012, 65). P io to the White “ eet Wate as the ost o o l go g ape i the olo Mo is, 2000, 47). In 1831 Busby took Male Orphan School wine around to influential Europeans: its 1829-30 vintage was noted as very promising . Late in 1831 he made a 4 month trip around the best French & Spanish wine districts, studying their climate, soil and grape culture and collecting 678 of the finest varieties cuttings cultivated in each for NSW. 433 were from the Montpellier Botanic Gardens, 110 from the Luxembourg Gardens, 44 from Sion House near Kew, London (Driscoll; Ramsden; Norrie (1); Seton Wilkinson; McIntyre, 2012, 66). He donated the collection to the British Government to establish an experimental garden at Sydney. A si ila fate to Ma a thu s olle tio occurred – fewer stocks were shipped than were ordered from the Royal Nursery of the Luxembourg in Paris. Bus s e ti e “pa ish olle tio pe ished o the o age M I t e, , . The remaining plants arrived and were planted in Sydney Botanic Garden in 1832. They were later neglected but 395 duplicates he sent to Kirkton survived and thrived (Driscoll). In 1832 Busby had planted at Kirkton a 40 acre vineyard. He distributed from there over 20,000 vine cuttings to about 50 Hunter River vignerons (Simon, 10). O e “ d e e ipie t of Bus s i es as usi ess a a d a ke , Ale a de B odie “pa k, of Tusculum, Potts Point and Tempe estate o the Cook s ‘i e at o A liffe. B he had a o e see a d ga de e Tho as Birkby) and 13 convict labourers on his 110 acre estate and by 1830 he was experimenting with grape growing there – in an enormous fenced rectangle on flat land, a bench over the river (Morris, 2008, 68). During 1833 Busby kept a journal of his tour through some vineyards of Spain and France, which he published the rd th following year (Buck). His 3 & 4 books gave useful lessons on foreign vine cultivation: …two hundred and fifty gallons (about twelve hundred bottles) will be the average produce of an acre of vines, observing, nevertheless, that this ill allo the fa il to o su e as a g apes as the please… ith a e fe ea s, i e a ds will be as common as corn fields, and the grapes so abundant, that no one will think it worth hile to steal the … a a e of vines would yield a tolerably abundant supply of wine for a family, and a large family too, and, were part of it made of second rate ualit , fo t o o th ee se a ts also… Ja es Bus , A Vi e a d is a e desi a le thi g , i A Manual of Plain Directions for Planting and Cultivating Vineyards and for Making Wine in New South Wales (first published in Sydney in 1830 by the Government Printer, George Howe. For many years, this was the Bi le of Australian vignerons (Simon, 133). From 1833-40 Busby introduced vines into New Zeala d, to Waita gi hi h still e ist. The e e t uite its fi st: in 1819 the Rev. Samuel Marsden had planted vines on his New Zealand mission station at Kerikeri (Buck). In 1838 cuttings from Bus s olle tio i Sydney Botanic Garden were sent to Victoria; 1839 to South Australia; 1840 to Western Australia and in 1866, Queensland (Buck; McIntyre, 2012, 66). The Sydney Botanic Gardens under superintendent, Charles Fraser, experimented with crop species, including vines. M I t e , otes that F ase aised Bla k Ha u gh f o seed . . Busby noted in his 1830 book that Fraser preserved a large number of grape cuttings each year for distribution to interested settlers (Seton Wilkinson 5, 9). He reputedly introduced and cultivated some 3000 varieties of grapes, trees, fruits and other valuable (vegetable productions) (Crittenden, 1992, 67-68). High humidity near the coast destroyed young vine shoots & leaves … making mildew a big problem for viticulture in Sydney. In 2007 the now Royal Botanic Garden, Sydney had a displa of old “hi az g ape i es do ated f o Geo ge W dha s estate, Dalwood (1830s+) at Branxton in the Hunter. These were planted alongside the Palm House in the Inner Garden in 2013 (Parker). A sign alongside claimed that Australian viticulture began here in the gardens in 1832. This is poor history, gi e Phillip s pla ti g i – e tai l dist i utio of Bus s i e collection around NSW in the 1830s from here was a major booster of availability, quality and range of varieties. Sadly this display did not thrive and has since been removed. Coolangatta estate was the first vineyard on the NSW “outh Coast s “hoalha e dist i t, esta lished merchant Alexander Berry in the 1820s as part of a farming village (Irvine; McIntyre, 2012, 194). “ d e Hunter Valley pioneers (other than Tucker at Albion Farm from 1812/20s) and from 1830 Busby/Kelman at Kirkton) were several prior to the 1840s and more numerous after that. James Webber of Tocal at Paterson had a 1.2 hectare vineyard (Birmingham, 1982, 33) and was one of the first. In 1832 Webber was one of ten locally growing vines - on three acres. Webber was inaugural president of the Hunter River Fa e s Clu which promoted agriculture and viticulture (McIntyre, 2012, 157, 178). Other 1832 growers were William Ogilvie at Merton (using Ge a i e d esse , Luthe M I t e, , , 178), George Wyndham at Dalwood, Branxton and George Townshend at Trevallyn, Gresford (two acres each), E. Cory at Gostwyck and Alexander Park at Lewinsbrook (Birmingham, 1982, 33; McIntyre, 2012, 178; Seton Wilkinson 2, 1). Five others (Mr. Kelman at Kirkton, Philobert Terrier at St. Heliers, Mr. Pike at Pickering, Mr. Little at Invermain and Mr. Pilcher of Maitland) had an acre each and Alexander Warren at Brandon near Seaham had half an acre (Seton Wilkinson 2, 1; Seton Wilkinson 3; McIntyre, 2012, 178; Driscoll) and Captain Samuel Wright, of Bengalla (Seton Wilkinson 3, 5). Others by 1832 included Lt. Willia Cas ell s Tanilba at Port Stephens (1830: Driscoll), St. Helens, Ja es Ki g s Irrawang (1832, first vintage 1836: Driscoll; Birmingham, 1982, 33 , ea Willia Bu ett s Glenview and W dha s Dalwood (HLA-Envirosciences). Several estates near Gresford to the north had planted grapes, including Camyr Allyn, by 1833 (Allyn and Paterson River Valley) a d Ale a de Pa k MLC s Lewinsbrook (Driscoll). In May 1833 the New South Wales Magazine named Webber as one of four pioneers of viticulture in New South Wales. The other three were Sir John Jamison at Nepean (Regentville), Macarthur at Camden (Camden Park) and Thomas Shepherd at Sydney (Darling Nursery). In March 1834 the Australian described Webber's efforts as follows: "Mr Webber s grapery at the Hunter, the finest in that part of the Colony has produced an unusual crop of fine grapes this season of the Oporto description; this gentleman expects next season to produce no insignificant quantity of wine from his vineyard..." In 29 May 1834 Wyndham of Dalwood visited Webber at Tocal. Six da s late W dha s diary recorded that he received Oporto and Govais cuttings from Webber. George had toured France and Spain looking at vines in 1824. He arrived in NSW in 1827, buying 2000 acres, with 20 convicts. 600 vine cuttings he received from Busby in July 1830 were dead before I got them (Seton Wilkinson 4, 6; Driscoll). Bus s utti gs at that ti e e e also delivered to other Hunter recipients, including: Bus s othe -in-law William Kelman of Kirkton; Captain Pike of Pickering; George Townshend of Trevallyn, Gresford; Webber of Tocal; Col. Dumaresq of St. Heliers; William Ogilvie of Merton; Mr. Little of Invermain; Mt. Pilcher of Maitland, James Glennie of Dulwich and Frederick Hely of Wyoming, Gosford (Seton Wilkinson 2, 1; Seton Wilkinson 5, 10) and King of Irrawang (ibid, 2). Wyndham s ste ati all a ui ed utti gs f o othe settle s a d “hephe d s Darling Nursery in Sydney (Seton Wilkinson 3) having 1400 vines planted by late 1831. Associates who gave him vines included Hunter owners George Townshend, James Busby and William Kelman, Dr. James Mitchell of Stockton, Captain Pike, Gregory Blaxland and Rev. Marsden of Mamre, St. Marys, Sydney (Norrie (2), 3-4; Seton Wilkinson 2, 1). Explorer and naturalist Ludwig Leichhardt called in to Dalwood on his way up to Brisbane in the 1840s giving George advice on how Germans grew grapes and made wine (Hoolihan, pers. comm., 7/2015 and 21/8/2015). W dha s fi st vintage was in 1835 (Driscoll). Dalwood was a significant supplier of cuttings for expansion of the Australian and New Zealand grape industries in the 1860s-80s (Seton Wilkinson 4, 7). Wyndham Estate is now one of Australia's leading producers. It is still on its vineyard, now owned by French wine company, Pernod Ricard / Wyndham Estate. It is Aust alia s oldest o ti uousl -operating vineyard and the only one of early Hunter estates still in production (Seton Wilkinson 5, 10). Above) Dalwood house, B a to , Geo ge W dha s ho e (Tanya Hoolihan) Vine plantings in the 1830s ea hed N“W s Illawarra (South Coast), over the Blue Mountains at Bathurst (Newling (2) 2), mid-north coast to Port Macquarie e.g. He White s post-1836 vineyard, sold to William Stokes in 1839: McIntyre, 2012, 180) and Raymond Terrace (Irrawang) (ibid, XI, 178). James King of Irrawang at Raymond Terrace first planted grapes in 1834 and played a major leading role in the Hunter River Vi e a d Asso iatio s fi st decade. His vineyard was of realistic rather than ambitious scale and he concentrated on improving methods of growing and making wine. In 1854 he had nine acres in grapes: six an experimental vineyard. Only then, some 20 years into his viticulture, did he expand his acreage, by another nine acres. Despite testing all manner of French, Spanish and Rhine Valley varieties, soils, aspects, pruning techniques et , he e pa ded usi g o l “hephe d s ‘iesli g o “e illo , i et ospe t sho i g g eat fo esight – this today is o e of the Hu te s g eatest g ape a ieties. He o espo ded ith g eat Ge a he ist a d philosophe Baron von Liebig, translating some of his writing on manuring vines into an article in the Maitland Mercury as early as 1845 continuing these ex ha ges a d a ti les u til o Fie ig s death i . This o espo de e helped p o ote N“W s i e i dust o e seas, as did Ki g s a d Willia Ma a thu s su ess ith e hi iti g thei i es at the 1855 Paris International Exhibition (Driscoll). I … , I as soli ited…to se d spe i e s of i e a d p odu e…to the Pa is E hi itio …the ost app o ed spe i e s of NSW i es at the E hi itio had ee e uested fo … ei g pla ed o the ta le i f o t of the E pe o …du i g the e e o of losi g. Si Willia Ma a thu s i e a d o e e a o di gl sele ted…pa i g a o pli e t to the B itish o , it ei g the p odu tio of o e of G eat B itai s depe de ies. Such a compliment from France, the greatest wine-growing country in the world, might well be regarded with satisfaction. (James King, of Irrawang, Hunter Valley, in 1857 booklet, Australia May Be an Extensive Wine-Growing Country : “i o , -2). King also lobbied the British Government to lift import duties on foreign (i.e. NSW) wine and for increased skilled foreign vineyard worker importation, such as from Germany. While success on both counts was lacking or partial, some migration and settlement in the Hunter of German vine dressers ensued and helped bolster the fledgling industry (Driscoll). French wine maker Philobert Terrier, invited here to teach viticulture and viniculture, made wine at Kaludah, Lochinvar from 1835 (EJE; Birmingham, 1982, 33; McIntyre, 2012, 77). He later set up his own vineyard at St. Heliers (Driscoll). Rev. Henry Carmichael planted Porphyry vineyard at Raymond Terrace in 1838. Henry Lindeman planted Cawarra on the Paterson River in 1840 (Jose & Carter, 1926, 626) / 1843 (Simon, 65; HLA-Envirosciences; Birmingham, 1982, 33; Newling (1), 2) with Shiraz, Riesling and Verdelho (Oliver, 58). By 1832 there were 62 acres of vines in the Hunter and by 1850, double that. When the first returns for vineyards were made in 1844, the Hu te had ½ a es of N“W s total of .B there were over 500 acres in the Hunter alone (Driscoll). Jules Joubert brought out vines from the Medoc district of France (Jose & Carter, 1926, 626). George Hobler of Aberglasslyn, west of Maitland made a champagne-style wine in 1844 (Seton Wilkinson 5, 13). Richard Windeyer of Tomago estate made his first wine in 1845, having planted 12 acres and imported a German wine dresser, and gaining permission to import seven more and one wine cooper (NSWHD-TH&TC; McIntyre, 2012, 73). Wi de e s othe A hi old at Kinross had a longer-lasting, more important vineyard and another near Hi to as Ed i Hi ke s Osterley. I the Hu te Valle s Windemere and Luskintyre vineyards, developed by and advertised to let by politician W.C.Wentworth in 1848, were 30 acres with 12 in full cultivation (Driscoll; Birmingham, 1982, 33; McIntyre, 2012, 73). In 1847 the Hunter River Vineyard Association was formed – ope to e e reputable and intelligent winegrower i the dist i t to meet and discuss improvements. Early members included King, Wyndham, Kelman, Windeyer, Andrew Lang of Dunmore, the Rev. John Dunmore Lang s othe , usi g Geo ge “ h idt a highly intelligent Wurtemberger as his a age (Driscoll; Birmingham, 1982, 33; McIntyre, 2012, 74, 159). Lo do s G eat E hi itio of featu ed a displa i ludi g th ee doze ottles of ed Bla k “pa ish / La us uat a d hite M . “hephe d s Riesling i e ade o M . Ca i hael s Porphyry Point vineyard on the William River, Seaham in the Hunter (Maitland Mercury, 13/11/1850, 4). In the 1840s vines had reached south-west to Wagga Wagga, Gunning (near Canberra, by Dr. Benjamin Clayton and wife Fanny, at Baltinglass a d the south s “hoalha e oast M I t e, , XI, 188). In 1844 John Smith imported German vine dressers to establish his vineyard at Kyeamba. He and John Nixon of Gregadoo sold their wines on the gold fields in the 1850s (ibid, 185). The German vine dressers later moved to Albury on the Murray River, forming their own vineyards which flourished in the gold boom years of the 1850s (ibid, 176). A decade later the Murray district emerged as a major vine district, second only to the Hunter (Liston, 3). Colo ial “e eta s e o ds i sho ed the Sydney Basin had some 183.6 acres of grapes. In 1845 this was 200 acres. By 1855 it was 350 acres (NHWGGA/Norrie (1)). NSW total acreage climbed slowly, with considerable fluctuations, from barely 500 acres in 1843 to over 1000 in the 1850s and 1860s, peaking at 3077 acres in 1875, falling and rising to 4500 acres in 1895 (Liston, 3). George Suttor - horticulturist; In 1798 Suttor accompanied and supervised Joseph Ba ks o es of useful plants including vines) transport to the colony (he noted 13 types of vines survived the voyage: Seton Wilkinson 5, 5: McIntyre (2011, 52) notes all of the plants in the specially-designed cabin died en route and Suttor had to purchase replacements at the Cape). From 1800 Suttor was growing and selling Citrus… in the colony. In 1835 he planted a vineyard at Chelsea Farm, Baulkham Hills of 2500 vines, which failed (NWEGGA). Suttor toured Rhine vineyards in 1840, studying their cultivation and wine making carefully, followed by a visit to Chateau Margaux, France for their 1842 vintage (McIntyre, 2011, 52). In 1843 his book Culture of the grape vine and the orange in Australia and New Zealand as published, chronicling his European tour and observations, with translations of contemporary works on wine (McIntyre, 2012, 72). A map of “ d e i e a ds up to Bus s Colle tio ei g pla ted i the Botanic Gardens in 1833 (about the time Hunter Valley vineyards really got going) shows a good number (Norrie (3), 9). From Mona Vale ‘o e t Ca p ell s farm, 1814+) in the north, to the Botanic Gardens and Sydney Cove, Annandale farm (prior to 1808), Brush Farm in the i e est , “ haeffe s The Vineyard at Rydalmere, Elizabeth Farm at Parramatta, (Third) Government Farm at Castle Hill, Chelsea Farm at Baulkham Hills, Orange Grove and Mamre at Erskine Park, Regentville (1826), the Government Farm at E u Plai s a d Ma a thu s fa at Pe ith , Co fa il fa s Winborne and Glenmore at Mulgoa (both 1824), Wallacia near Liverpool, the Male Orphanage, Cabramatta (1825; now Bonnyrigg), Varroville, St.Andrews (1811) and Campbellfield at Minto, both near Campbelltown, Montpellier, The Oaks (its vines planted by William Panton in 1830: Everett, 2002, 4), Camden Park(NHWGGA/Norrie (1)) and Jean Baptiste Lehamaz de A ietta s Moreton Park, Douglas Park (pla ted a worthy and sensible man familiar with commerce and possessing a knowledge of viticulture… No ie, quoted in Everett, 2003, 4), all of these south of Camden (Norrie (1)). Campbellfield was established in 1824 (Newling (1), 2) says 1818) for Dr. William Redfern, who had studied the wine industry, bought cuttings and hired Portuguese vinedressers to bring to NSW while on Madeira (McIntyre, 2012, 63). Redfern is recognised as the first to introduce Verdelho to Australia. The Hunter Valley strain of Verdelho is said to have come from here: Norrie (1); Everett, 2001, 4-7; McIntyre, 2011, 48) Not on that map but north of Camden was Gledswood, Catherine Fields, a farm bought by James Chisholm in 1816. His son, also James, planted its vineyard c.1830 (Everett, 2003, 4). The house s ella ould sto e , ottles (NHWGGA/Norrie (1)). He wrote in the 1830s: there is much about the vine that renders it an attractive pursuit and imported German vine dresser F.Worner in 1847. Nearby neighbours Charles Hook, later Rev. Hassall at Denbigh and politician and grazier, Charles Cowper at Wivenhoe (1830s, at Cobbitty) both had vineyards (McIntyre, 2012, 73). In 1835 Henry Whitaker established Orchardleigh at East Fairfield (NHWGGA/Norrie (1)). By 1840, 2000 gallons of premium first class wine were produced and stored in the celebrated cellars under Co pe s Wivenhoe villa. In he se t He itage utti gs to the fa ous George Cox of Winborne, Mulgoa and Burrundulla, Mudgee (Everett, 2003, 4). The Hermitage, Denistone in north-central Sydney near Brush Farm s 1842+ home farm built for John and Ellen Blaxland included a vineyard. From 1875 improvements included a i e a d, a ga de e s ottage a d i e house… et + sa su di isio s of the estate (NSWHD-H&G). In 1847 the Marist Fathers Catholic Order from Lyon, France bought Longwood at Gladesville, later renamed The Priory. Vines were reported to be growing well there that year (NHWGGA/Norrie (1)). By the 1850s N“W s a d then particularly the Hunter s infant wine industry could face the second half century with confidence. It had weathered uncertain starts, clumsy varying experiments with varieties, locations, soils, growing techniques, shortages of skilled labour and uncertain domestic and export markets. In the 1850s NSW wines would win international recognition in Paris, London and elsewhere. More importantly, attitudes to wine growing, making and drinking had changed considerably from 1788 or 1820 – it was more widespread, more accepted and more supported including by Members of the Colonial Legislative Assembly such as Windeyer and Macarthur (Driscoll; McIntyre, 2012, 73). Another Norrie map of major Sydney vineyards, from the mid-1800s to just before the establishment of current vineyards shows many more (Norrie (3), 47). Three are clustered in the northern beaches/Pittwater. Institutions such as the Marist Fathers and Gladesville Hospital +/ photo shows vineyards) are shown along with Lyndhurst in Glebe; Minchinbury, Blacktown (1859+; 1908 made champagne); Vineyard near Windsor (Vineyard is still a suburb name); and many south of Parramatta Road/The Great Western Highway between Parramatta, Liverpool, Camden and Penrith. Tizzana vineyard and winery of Dr. Fiaschi at Ebenezer on the Hawkesbury River (1885-1953, 80 hectares) is shown, which continues (revived) in production today. By 1900 grape production for commercial wine making had been superseded by table grape production. Of 1798 acres of grapes in the County of Cumberland in 1899, only 324 were used for wine making (Liston, 3). The offshoots towards a national industry: Weste Aust alia s fi st i e a d as esta lished i -30 in Perth by Charles McFaull (Norrie (1); (2), 2; (3), 8). Norrie elsewhere says it was 1834, followed in 1837 by a Mr. Waters (Buck). McFaull brought 300 cuttings from the Cape s Co sta tia i e a ds to his i e a d ea F e a tle Ma ki o , , ). Sandalford winery at Ca e sha is o e of Aust alia s oldest-surviving. Others have dwindled: Thomas Yule, Ninian Lowis and Richmond Houghto s Houghton, 1836 in the Swan Valley produced raisins, its first wine not until 1859 (Ellis). In 1842 Western Australia formed Aust alia s fi st i e a d asso iatio , the W.A. Vi e a d “o iet et a d e pe i e ted with cultivars members hoped would become a model. The Hunter River Vineyard Association came five years later. From 1834+ the first vines were grown in Victoria by Edward Henty at Portland, which failed (Norrie (2), 2). In 1835, John Pascoe Fawkner succeeded in Melbourne (Norrie (1)) and in 1838 William Ryrie established 12 acres at Yering, in the Yarra Valley (Mackinnon, 1982, 64) and got cuttings from the Macarthurs at Camden, as did John Reynell of South Australia in 1844 (Birmingham, 1982, 35). In 1838 cuttings from Bus s olle tio i Sydney Botanic Garden were sent to Victoria (Buck). By the 1850s large vineyards were being planted on the Victorian side of the Murray River around Rutherglen and along the Goulburn River (Liston, 4). Within a decade (of 1824) vines were planted in Tasmania, Victoria and South Australia. The Hobart Town Gazette in 1824 noted settlers making rasp e a d u a t i e i Tas a ia a d e lai i g M B oughto s fi e i e a d at Ne To , Ho a t a d i e i the i itatio of ha pag e ... fa supe io to M . Bla la d s UK gold-medal winning wine of Sydney (Mackinnon, 1982, 64). In 1837 “outh Aust alia s i e i dust egan ea s afte “ d e s . A. J. Schultz and P. Stein planted vines for the South Australian Company s Bota i Ga de . Joh Ba to Ha k pla ted the fi st p i ate i e a d that ea i North Adelaide (Norrie (1); (2), 2). A. H. Da is pla ted utti gs f o Bus s olle tio o his fa outside Adelaide in 1838-40. Dr. Christopher Penfold established his Magill vineyard in 1844 (Liston, 4). The industry started in Queensland in 1866 (Norrie ((2), 2) says 1824, but mainly after 1848)(Buck). In 1843 the first partially-elected Legislative Council made a series of laws encouraging wine production and consumption and the first official record-keeping of grape plantings and wine making occurred (McIntyre, 2012, XI). In that year, its first of publication, the twice-weekly newspaper the Maitland Mercury ran over a dozen articles, letters or tutorials on wine growing, making and quality. A March 1843 Hunter River Society dinner reported there had served wines made by Kelman, King and William Ogilvie. The newspaper intoned: When the vineyards have acquired age, and the gentlemen engaged in the manufacture have become more conversant with an art that has taken hundreds of years to bring it to perfection in Europe, there can be no doubt that wine will form a considerable article of export from the colony (Driscoll). That Society reconstituted itself as the Hunter River Agricultural Society i a di as the Hu te ‘i e Vi e a d Asso iatio , Aust alia s fi st su h solel -dedicated to advancing viticultural standards (Driscoll). In the 1850s vines reached Mudgee, Yass, Inverell, Armidale and Tamworth (ibid, XI, 191). McIntyre notes that the Co s at Mudgee a ha e pla ted i es ea Mudgee f o the s i id, . I Lo do s G eat C stal Pala e E hi itio , the fi st of a a a of i te atio al e pos , a s all ua tit of NSW wine was exhibited to some notice (ibid, 2012, XI). Phylloxera is and does? This is a vine mite / louse (Phylloxera vasterix) which attacks oot s ste s, sta i g pla ts f o ate . It aused a worldwide scourge which de i ated Eu ope s vineyards. The louse first hit Geelong in the late 1870s, spreading into Victoria & NSW. It iped out u h of Vi to ia s i e a ds “i o , ; Dunstan, 2002, 621). Sydney vineyards were hit from the 1880s. The response was rapid introduction of quarantine measures and ruthless vine grubbing out. Ma e o ld i e species proved resistant to phylloxera and survived. Resistant grape root stocks /species were grafted as rootstocks and inter-bred to foster phylloxera-resistance. A heritage unappreciated today? Today the Sydney district sports some 6 vineyards. Vi a s i e a d, Luddenham: 1918 vines, 1923 first vintage (on a John Blaxland grant of 1813, the a e Ludde ha ei g Bla la d s ho e illage i E gla d) until recently was the oldest continuous vineyard in Western Sydney. Tha ks to Badge s C eek ai po t getti g fede al government approval, widening of the Northern Road and urbanisation have sealed its future as sadly it closed in November 2015 (Drinkwater, 2). Dalwood at B a to appea s to e Aust alia s oldest o ti uous i e a d, f o the s u til toda . Aust alia s wine industry exports earn $2.5b/year, rum is now far less common than wine and NSW is increasingly promoting its own wines to the domestic market – not just the Hunter but other districts and regions. Vineyard landscapes are beginning to attract serious heritage attention internationally as both heritage items and as cultural tradition. They are also attracting attention as big business, a crop in its own right and for their value as tourism destinations. In July UNE“CO s Wo ld He itage Co ittee listed Bu gu d & Cha pag e - terroir & vineyard landscapes in France on the World Heritage List as two evolving cultural landscapes, adding to the F a e s al ead -World Heritage-listed vineyard area. This is quite a recovery from the 1850s devastation of Europe s i e a ds ilde . In 1855: The fate of … vineyards may be regarded as sealed, for the present. The ruin of Grapes in Portugal, France, Italy, Germany, and the Balearic Islands, appears … so extensive that the price of wine must rise o side a l …Madei a is i the sa e p edi a e t … ilde has egu to sho itself i Si il …i the sa e state as in France. How far Spain is exempt we are as yet uninformed…mildew prevailed in Grenada last year... Under these circumstances it becomes a subject of great interest to ascertain whether any of our colonies are likely, eithe to fill the oid … e po ti g i e, o to elie e the a ket the p odu tio of i e fo thei o o su ptio …The wines grown in NSW are gradually displacing the imported, particularly among families not resident in the towns. If their use be once adopted, the majority of persons discontinue the consumption of i po ted i es… allegi g that they find those of home growth more wholesome and exhilarating. (The Ga de e s Chronicle of Saturday, November 25th, 1854. It includes a review of 7 wines sent from Camden Park by William Macarthur](www.hortuscamden.com) So will we one day see the Hunter Valley or “outh Aust alia s Mount Lofty Ranges, including the McLaren Vale and Barossa and Clare Valleys as potential National Heritage Listing or World Heritage List items? Or will we see other vineyards listed as local or state heritage items? I certainly hope so. We have nothing to shy away from in world terms. These are continuous evolving cultural landscapes, carrying the second wave of Australian viticulture along with other mixed farming and cropping, into its second century. Why ever not? Cherishing this old and successful industry and securing its future will do nothing but confer rural stability, employment, tourism and cultural pride for generations to come. References: G esfo d a d East G esfo d histo undated, www.apvt.com.au. , in Allyn and Paterson River Valley – Paterson, Vacy, East Gresford, (tourist brochure), Annable, Rosemary, A Report on the history and archaeological potential of part of the former Mount Adelaide estate at Double Bay, unpublished report for Woollahra Council, January 1999. Birmingham, Judy, A haeologi al Co sulta t, . Wi e ies , i Hunter Region Survey: Industrial Archaeological Sites – Brickworks, Bridges, Wineries, Pastoral, Dairy , in Hunter Region Heritage Study, University of Sydney, unpublished report, 1982, 33-44. Blaxland, David, Gregory Blaxland, PowerPoint presentation, unpublished, 2013. Bu k, Joh , Che alie du Taste i , Histo i al De elop e t , Chapte 27. Butt e , ‘o , G ego Bla la d: Pio ee Fa i Take a Little Wine, Whitcombe and Tombs, 1969, 23- e , i Australian Heritage, Summer 2006, 35-39. City of Ryde Council, Glades ille Hospital: ie of i e a ds & supe i te de t s house, a ou d (photograph), Reference no. 4954459, online at http://library.ryde.nsw.gov.au/cgi-bin/spydus.exe/ENQ/PIC/BIBENQ?IRN=12328388..., accessed 13/7/2015 Crittenden, Victor, A Shrub in the Landscape of Fame – Thomas Shepherd – Australian Landscape Gardener and Nurseryman, Mulini Press, 1992, 40, 46, 48, 51-2, 67-70, 72-4, 76-9, 95-7, 108-9, 112, 132, 138-44, 149-50. Crittenden, Victor, Shepherd, Thomas (c1779e t i Aitke , ‘. & Looke , M. ed.s , The Oxford Companion to Australian Gardens, Oxford University Press and the Australian Garden History Society, 2002, 548-550. 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