Fragrance Trends in Hair Care

Remember Gee, Your Hair Smells Terrific Shampoo? The brand and the marketing
effort were a testament to the importance of the fragrance residual wafting from a
freshly shampooed head of hair. The importance of fragrance in the overall
perception of performance in today’s hair care, whether it is in the retail brand or in
the salon brand, remains a factor in the success of hair care products. It’s all about
the feel-good fragrance experience, and, as such, fragrance is an important
marketing tool.

Fragrance Impacts Perception

Just how much does fragrance influence the perception of performance in

shampoos? It must be totally integrated into the product line. Ask a consumer how
she likes her new shampoo, and the comment is, typically, “It smells great.” And
because it smells great she thinks it’s going to perform well on her hair. Salon
stylists may critique products more on performance and total product effects, but,
still, fragrance plays an essential role for these professionals because boredom
does set in with repeated use of any one fragrance, which opens the door to line
extensions that expand fragrance types. Consumers have been bombarded with
new trends in fragrance, and hair care now follows the fashion trends of fine
fragrance. When marketers introduce a new shampoo or line extension every six
months they should expect a certain amount of consumer fickleness. The simple
function of washing hair has become a sensory experience. While the salon visit
remains an important routine for women, the frequency with which women wash
their hair, with today’s free and easy hairstyles, continues to increase. Shampoo
products have exploded, and the definitive line between salon products and retail
products has diminished. Upscale products are now available in specialty stores,
drug stores and discount chains; so it is increasingly important, regardless of where
a hair care line is launched or retailed, that scent be well thought-out and fully
integrated into the line. And marketers must expect a certain amount of consumer
fickleness. Fragrances have reached a new level of attracting consumers to buy and
try a new shampoo, and while the tried-and-true megabrands have promised
elevated performance, they must continue to address the scent dimension and
heighten that experience to complement improving formulas.

Brands, Performance and Fragrance

Of the mainstay mass-retail brands, which had good brand identity at retail such as
Breck, Prell, Head & Shouldters, and Alberto Vo-5, Clairol Herbal Essence stands out
for its reliance on the marketing impact of its fragrance, which is a vital part of the
brand identity and makes a direct reference to the product’s natural herbal
complex. It was one of the first brands to realize both its impact and the power of
fragrance to convey a natural message. Since P&G bought the brand and expanded
its natural fruit flavors and botanicals, there has been an explosion of the brand
premise, and the line and its fragrance themes are now expanding into bath and
body care. Garnier Fructis, a strong niche product line owned by L’Oréal that also
relies on the natural fruit and vitamin theme, has expanded into myriad hair
treatment products that have maintained the same fragrance theme of the original
offerings, which rely on natural citrus blends of orange and grapefruit, pineapple
and lemon. Unilever has expanded the entire Sunsilk product line through multiple
fragrances that have expanded the fruity botanical trend. Helene Curtis began the
green apple fruity trend with Salon Selectives. The brand, recently reintroduced by
a private group headed by former Helene president Gene Zeffrin, already achieved
good on-shelf recognition, but will have to look into new marketing twists relying on
fragrance to keep interest in the line. Finesse brand sales, also featuring a melon-
based scent, have dwindled, indicating that the melon note, perhaps, has become
too mundane. The Dove line made a huge splash a few years ago, and has
remained consistent with a very clean and soft mossy herbal fragrance that is an
integral part of the formula and ties with the brand’s gentle cleansing theme. This
is an illustration of a fragrance delivering the whole concept of cleansing and
conditioning and leaving a wonderful aura of herbal notes on the hair. The
fragrance carries the identity of the product. The identifying tie note is the herbal
natural complex which has since been broken down into sub-categories within the
brand. The line has kept up with fruity note trends since P&G bought it. The Herbal
Essence theme has been expanded into bath and body care. The line caught the
naturals theme early. Understanding the Aura Fragrance also may heighten the
perception of hair care products’ functionality by imparting a subliminal message of
quality and identity that can create an exhilarating experience. Marketers of
shampoos for salon use have long understood this power, and this knowledge can
be put to good use in retailing mass products, extending lines, and building and
reinforcing brand identity. “Where the brand’s identity is integral to the product
performance, the fragrance is kept as part of its brand identity,” said Carlos
Linares, R&D director, Alberto-Culver, noting that while there are some deviations
in line extensions, a tie with the original must remain. Linares divides the
company’s three hair care lines into three marketing categories—encompassing the
VO5, Tresemme’ and Nexus brands. Brand loyalty, he states, to both Tresemme’
and the Nexus salon line means keeping the lines’ fragrances fairly consistent with
ingrained consumer expectations. Consumers expect melon notes from Tresemme’
and a sweet coconut amber vanilla fragrance from the Nexus line—the latter being
marketed as an up-scale salon-like brand. “The VO5 line has more flexibility in
capturing some of the fragrance trends,” says Shannon McKenzie, fragrance
coordinator, Alberto-Culver. Product profiles are given to a core list of fragrance
suppliers to challenge them to submit compatible fragrances that demonstrate
creativity and recognize trends in the marketplace

Salon Brands Dare to Be Adventurous

Salon and boutique spa products often offer more adventurous fragrance
statements—utilizing botanicals, exotic plants, tropical fruits blended with musks,
and florals that provide great residuals. A wafting exotic floral may enhance the
whole salon experience, and there may be olfactory fatigue when an oft relied-upon
fragrance is overused. Blends—such as sharp, fresh citrus notes with orange flower,
rosemary and chamomile, honeyed pear and lemongrass—play a critical fragrance
role in that they are, thus far, not overused; other examples include fruit and green
apple notes, coconut notes with mango, a great deal of musk blended into the
florals and citrus to provide great residuals. Fragrance trends will continue to drive
the hair care market, with the segment’s emphasis on botanicals and natural
ingredients providing brand stories of functionality and fragrance that enhance the
entire sensory experience.

Deodorants play an essential role in people’s daily personal care routines. Around
the world, adults and teens trust these products to get rid of body odor, control
sweat and keep them smelling fresh and clean all day. Mintel Global New Products
Database (GNPD) looks at recently launched products to identify the most popular
fragrance trends in deodorants.

Botanicals

As in other personal care categories, botanicals and herbs are widely used in
deodorants to appeal to consumers looking for more natural products. Deodorant
manufacturers frequently include ingredients like aloe or cucumber to position their
products as moisturizing and extra gentle on the skin. Additionally, certain
botanicals, such as green tea or lemongrass, are marketed as naturally deodorizing
and freshening. In addition to giving products a natural profile, botanical
ingredients bring with them the authentic scents of the earth.

In Guatemala, Unilever recently released Dove Antiperspirante Desodorante en

Spray (spray antiperspirant deodorant) with cucumber and green tea. Formulated
with a moisturizing cream to soothe and protect the skin, the Dove deodorant is
alcohol free and dermatologically tested. Its fragrance is described as “Fresh
Touch” due to its natural ingredient content.

Schwarzkopf & Henkel in Sweden features botanical ingredients in its Barnängen

Essentials Anti-Perspirant Deodorant Roll-On. Claiming to provide 24-hour
protection from odor, the deodorant is made with yogurt and aloe vera. It is also
alcohol-free, claiming that its natural contents help people stay fresh and odor-free

Organic

Going one step further than botanical and herbal ingredients, organic and all-
natural formulations are also gaining popularity in new product development. These
claims remain relatively niche, however, as consumers warm to the idea of fully
trusting naturally-formulated deodorant products. But as consumer interest in
natural and organic deodorant grows, so too will the numbers of products making
these claims. As with botanical and herbal products, organic and all natural
deodorants often link their fragrances to their wholesome contents.

Coslys Déodorant à Bille Recharge (deodorant refill) in France contains five

essential oils, including sweet almond oil to protect the skin, and tea tree, sage and
eucalyptus oils for their antibacterial properties. Ninety-five percent of its
ingredients are of natural origin, and 10% of the ingredients are produced
organically.

In the United States, L'Occitane en Provence features a Cooling Deodorant Stick

with Organic Verbena Extract. Made from ingredients of natural origin, the
deodorant is also alcohol-, paraben- and aluminum salt-free. It has a long-lasting
scent of fresh and sparkling citrus.

Trends in Deodorant Fragrances

Though many deodorants contain added fragrance to help mask body odor, there is
a strong market for products that are fragrance-free. Many consumers have
sensitive skin or other skin problems and they look specifically for products that do
not contain added fragrances or irritants. Because deodorants are applied daily,
and oftentimes even more than once a day, “gentle” formulations are especially
important.

In Brazil, Rodrigues Lourenço & Perreira features a fragrance-free formulation with

its Aromatíssimo Desodorante Antitranspirante (antiperspirant deodorant).
Promising to leave the skin feeling fresh, it offers protection against the odors
caused by perspiration without adding any fragrance.

Beiersdorf in Austria likewise features a product suited for sensitive skin under its
Hidro Fugal brand. Hidro Fugal Anti-Transpirant Roll-On (antiperspirant roll-on) is
fragrance-free and contains no alcohol, colors or preservatives. Additionally, the
antiperspirant has been tested by dermatologists to ensure its gentleness

Trends and Similarities in Fragrance and Personal

Care

There is more to fragrance formulation than meets the eye—or nose that is.
Fragrance is incorporated into nearly every personal care product on the market
and often is instrumental in a consumer’s choice; and with personal care formulas
ever-evolving, it only follows that the fragrance industry would evolve along side it.
During the fragrance selection process, a fragrance formulator must be
conscientious of many of the same issues that personal care formulators face. Both
raw material and fragrance formulators spend significant time in the lab testing
different materials to determine which ingredients, oils, extracts, etc. best meet
their formulation and consumer’s needs. And although fragrance and personal care
are two different industries, the discovery processes prove similar.

Leslie Smith has been formulating fragrance for personal care products for a
number of years, most recently as the vice president of fragrance technology for
Coty/Lancaster. Although he recognizes that fragrance formulating is similar to that
of a skin care active, he concedes that there are many details that go into
producing a successful scent. Also similar are the technologies available for
formulating fragrance and personal care products.

Trends in Delivery

Encapsulation is a trend that is growing in the personal care industry. Just as

personal care formulators are enclosing actives to better deliver them to certain
areas of the skin, so too are fragrance formulators attempting to encapsulate
fragrance to better deliver the scent

“Natural fragrances are easier to create than organic fragrances. [Natural

fragrances] are a little bit more expensive, but we can make a good-smelling
natural fragrance at a cost,” said Smith. Natural fragrances, for Smith, either occur
in nature or are synthetic but nature identical. Organic fragrances, however, are a
completely different challenge.

“It is getting slightly easier to create organic fragrances, but it is still difficult,” said
Smith, who notes that there are few materials that can be incorporated into organic
fragrances. Materials that can be formulated into organic fragrances include
ingredients such as menthol, thyme and rosemary. Smith characterizes these
fragrances as “medicinal,” which is a challenge for the fragrance industry. In
addition to the limited supply of oils that a perfumer can use in an organic
fragrance, formulating with organic ingredients may interfere with the fragrance’s
ability to last. The organic fragrance industry is gradually improving, according to
Smith, as new organic oils are being created at a slow rate.

Two Similar Industries

Although the raw materials and the fragrance industry experience similar trends,
there are still many issues that affect each separately. One such example is
research into consumers’ individualized affinity to certain fragrances. According to
Smith, many researchers debate whether fragrance preference is inherent or
acquired.

One issue remains popular between the two industries—global acceptance.

Personal care ingredient suppliers continue to establish their ingredients globally
and, in lieu of regulatory challenges, this is no easy task. Similarly, fragrance
manufacturers are trying to market their scents around the world. “We are all trying
to gain global acceptance of our fragrances. This can prove challenging because
different areas of the world prefer different scents,” said Smith. Although fragrance
and raw materials are two different industries, they are interlinked and will continue
to evolve together.

Top 10 Flavor and Fragrance Trends for 2010

Fragrance trends were developed on the basis of trends in fashion, art, color,
politics and entertainment:
 Grapefruit rhubarb rose (youthful)

 Seashore driftwood (androgynous)

 White amber/patchouli (shocking)

 Mahogany vetiver (relaxed traditional)

 Absinthe (provocative)

 Mandarin/orange blossom (simplistically fashionable)

 Mojito (planned simplicity)

 Woody iris (realism)

 Satin wood (transparent fashion)

 Szechwan pepper (bold accents)

Flavor trends were categorized in sweet (confectionery, bakery and dairy) savory
(meat, condiments, dressings, sauces, soups and seasonings) and beverage (non-
alcoholic and alcoholic) segments; bacon, meanwhile, is predicted to be on the top
of all product development for 2010.

 Sweet flavors: Honey, milk chocolate, rose, chocolate with bacon, Ellison
orange apple, golden russet, pomelo, chili, sea buckthorn and aronia.

 Beverage flavors: Coconut water, hibiscus, Peppadew (sweet piquanté

pepper), yumberry, chamomile, lavender, jasmine, cupuacu, aloe vera and
cucumber.

 Savory flavors: Bacon, sriracha, rich umami, brown butter, black garlic,
saffron, Tasso “ham,” aji amarillo, za’atar and thai green curry.

Men's Fragrance Trends for Summer

Many men seek a unique personal expression. What better way to make that
statement than with fragrance? The unique power of fragrance can tell a story or
evoke a memory; it becomes part of the individual. Fragrance is fun and with
summer finally here, many men are trying new scents. Botanical, fruity and woody
scents are extremely hot for men looking for a new way to express themselves. Just
in time for the season, Mintel Global New Products Database (GNPD) looks at the
latest trends in men’s fragrance.

Crisp, Clean, Herbal

Health concerns have led to more demand for herbal personal care products, which
has resulted in the launch of numerous herbal scents. In Italy, Canali has released
Summer Night, a special-edition fragrance for men for the summer season. It is
described as having a top note of mandarin, bergamot, coriander, cardamom and
nutmeg; a heart of orange blossom, jasmine, lily of the valley and violet leaves; and
bottom notes of leather and suede. This sensual scent is perfect for summer!

Enticing Flavors Become Versatile Scents

The fruity fragrance family includes sweet, juicy, fruit-inspired fragrances as well as
refreshing citrus scents. From each end of the globe, fruity fragrances are being
innovated. In Italy, Diesel has released Fuel for Life. Its bottle is wrapped in a
vintage jute bag and the perfume contains notes of starry aniseed, raspberry and
vetiver.

In Venezuela, Distribuidora Dipacar has released Baldessarini Ambre Fragrance for

Men. The fragrance contains notes of red apple, mandarin and cedar whiskey for a
fruity scent that is still decidedly masculine.

Wood: Smoky, Musty, Mossy

For those who enjoy fresh smells with a hint of sophistication, woody fragrances are
perfect. In the United States, Procter & Gamble has released Lacoste Elegance,
which contains penny royal peppermint, thyme and juniper berry with a base of
sandalwood, cedarwood, amber, musk and dry chocolate. It is said to combine
timeless elegance with modernity.

In the Saudi Arabian market, Oman-based fragrance trader Amouage reworked its
Ciel perfume range with more volume of perfume concentration. Ciel for Men has
accords from silver cedar, frankincense, vetyver, lilies, jasmine and lavender.

Natural Instincts: Global Trends in Women’s

Fragrances

New product activity in the women’s fragrances category has slowed in recent
years, with Mintel’s Global New Products Database (GNPD) reporting that between
2005 and 2008, global introductions in the category decreased by nearly 10%.
Despite this slowdown in launch activity, innovation persists, as manufacturers
continue experimenting with intriguing fragrances, innovative formulations and
functional positioning. Perhaps the most pervasive trend across the fragrance
category has been that of more natural, organic and eco-friendly formulations. In
fact, GNPD reports that despite the decline in introduction volume, women’s
fragrances making claims relating to product naturalness increased more than
600% globally between 2005 and 2008.

“Free from” Formulations

To help products stand out in the increasingly crowded natural fragrances
marketplace, more manufacturers are positioning products around both the natural
ingredients they contain as well as the unnatural components that have been
eliminated from the formulations. According to GNPD, some of the most popular
“free from” positioning claims appearing on the market for the first six months of
2009 include “no additives/preservatives,” “alcohol-free” and “paraben-free.”

In the United States, for example, Pacifica Lotus Garden Solid Perfume is a blend of
citrus, herbs, lotus blossom, cassis, green violet leaf and pink pepper. The product
is free from parabens, sulfates, synthetic fragrance materials, synthetic dyes,
phthalates and genetically modified ingredients. It has been formulated with natural
essential oils and organic soy and coconut waxes. It is 100% vegan and has not
been tested on animals.

In Japan, The Body Shop’s White Musk White Hot Summer Cool Chiffon Body Mist is
a limited-edition body cooling fragrance spritz designed to refresh and subtly scent
the skin. The fragrance is a combination of delicate rose, pink pepper and
bergamot. This preservative-free product contains Community Trade African honey.

Antioxidants for the Skin and the Senses

Across a variety of food and beverage categories, superfruits have emerged as key
components in natural, organic and functional product introductions. Celebrated for
their high antioxidant content and purported disease-fighting capabilities, many
once unfamiliar superfruits such as pomegranate and goji berry have achieved
mainstream appeal. This growth in superfruit activity in foods and beverages
underscores increasing consumer desire for products touting added benefits and
better-for-you ingredients. The use of natural, functional components has moved
beyond just the consumables market, and a number of natural fragrances have
recently emerged that incorporate antioxidant-rich superfruits for both their unique
scents and skin-nourishing properties.

In the United States, Lavanila Laboratories’ Vanilla Coconut Healthy Fragrance

Roller-Ball incorporates a blend of young coconut, Tahitian tiare flower and
Madagascan vanilla. This natural fragrance is infused with essential oils and
contains vitamin- and antioxidant-rich goji berry and kakadu plum, which are
claimed to deliver 30 essential vitamins and minerals to the skin. This product has
not been tested on animals and is free from petrochemicals, phthalates, mineral oil,
silicone, synthetic dyes, sulfates and parabens.
Similarly, in Argentina, Avon Naturals Body Refreshing Tangerine and Jasmine
Cologne Spray is formulated with a proprietary Bioseed Complex, which is a mixture
of neem, grape and sunflower seed extracts. This complex is claimed to nourish,
hydrate and deliver antioxidants to the skin. The fragrance is enriched with
tangerine, jasmine and green tea.

Functionality Through Aromatherapy

Beyond antioxidant properties, a number of natural fragrances appearing on the
market recently have touted functional benefits through the use of
aromatherapeutic formulations. Rooted in the concept that certain scents can
improve users’ moods, relax their minds or invigorate the senses, aromatherapy
benefits—though largely unproven—align well with the fragrance category. As
manufacturers look to pack more enticing benefits into their products,
aromatherapy claims in women’s fragrances more than quadrupled between 2005
and 2008, according to GNPD.

In the United States Life Therapy Vacation Pulse Point Oil, , is free from parabens
and alcohol and contains a blend of botanical ingredients, including white orchid,
sandalwood and Polynesian coconut. This scent is claimed to have an aphrodisiac
effect.

In France, L’Occitane recently relaunched its Citrus Verbena Summer Fragrance for
summer 2009. The product contains organic verbena from Corsica, lemon oil from
Sicily and grapefruit extract from Italy and is claimed to stimulate the body and
refresh the mind. Finally, in the United Kingdom, Arbonne f.y.i. PersonalSpace
Ambitious Spray Fragrance features a dynamic scent of green tea and clover that
claims to stimulate the senses and to leave the user feeling motivated and
determined.

Some POPULAR TRENDS FOR COSMETICS

1. Lemon

Lemon is a common, popular scent for household cleaning products, especially

those used in the kitchen and bath. Its bright, citrusy aroma brings an automatic
connotation of clean and pure to anything it touches. Dongguan Huaxing Cosmetic
took a leap in China, however, by reformulating its Shenbao High-Effective
Whitening Detergent Powder with a lemon fragrance. Claiming to penetrate into
clothing to remove stubborn stains and dirt, the product promises to wash and
whiten clothes with a rich, lightly scented lather.

2. Lavender

Relaxing and inherently calming, lavender is a very familiar scent in body and
personal care products. It is an essential oil with a long history of soothing tired,
over-worked minds and bodies. EO put this longevity to use in Canada with its
organic, plant-based hand sanitizer. Moisturizing and sanitizing skin with no need
for water, EO Hand Sanitizer is a more natural alternative to chemical-laden hand
sanitizers. It contains an organic lavender fragrance

3. Fresh

Somewhat non-descript, but nonetheless enticing, the “fresh” scent has become
quite popular in household and personal care new product development. Promising
a light breath of life through its name alone, the fresh scent is especially popular in
deodorants. French brand Lavera Body Spa features a Déodorant Spray Fraîcheur
(Fresh Deodorant Spray) that is said to neutralize body odor. Containing essential
oils such as hop, linden tree, green tea and lemon balm, the deodorant spray seems
a light way to remove bad smells without adding heavy fragrance.

4. Citrus

Similar to lemon, the joyful aroma of citrus seems to brighten any mood or
environment. Thus, it seems almost perfectly suited to the shower, where a citrus-
scented conditioner can awaken even the most tired minds. In Columbia,
Schwarzkopf Citré Shine Fresh Fusion Moisture Replenish Conditioner contains
citrus vita-actives to infuse hair with energy. Shine Fresh Fusion Moisture Replenish
is also available in a shampoo for a fully awakening experience.

5. Flower

No flowers in winter? No more. By adding floral scents to non-food products,

manufacturers have all but ensured that consumers can recapture the joy of freshly
cut flowers in even the worst of winter weather. As the fifth top fragrance from
2007, floral aromas often appeared in household and bath products. Glade featured
a Car Fresh Chic Car Air Freshener with a “fresh blended floral fragrance” in New
Zealand. Claiming capture the clean freshness of a dewy morning, the car air
freshener promised to circulate its “chic” scent throughout the car for up to 45
days.
 Frangipani
150.00 linalool
130.00 benzyl acetate
100.00 benzyl salicylate
80.00 cinnamyl acetate
80.00 geranyl acetate
80.00 benzyl benzoate
78.00 methyl benzoate
75.00 geraniol
60.00 cinnamic alcohol
30.00 thibetolide
30.00 cis-3-hexenyl salicylate
20.00 hydroxycitronellal
20.00 eugenol
20.00 cis-3-hexenyl benzoate
10.00 methyl jasmonate
5.00 beta-ionone
1.00 cis-3-hexenol
1.00 cis-3-hexenyl acetate
30.00 cis/trans-5-methyl-6-pentyltetrahydro-.alpha.-pyrone
1000.00 Total