A Year of Innovation in Fragrances 2021
A Year of Innovation in Fragrances 2021
A Year of Innovation in Fragrances 2021
fragrances, 2021
NPD is grabbing people's attention by tapping into wellness and customisation trends; and focusing on
the emotive benefits of scent, naturalness and sustainability.
Rosalia Di Gesu
October 2021
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Table Of Contents
Contents
THE AMERICAS
3
What we have seen
EMEA: many different ways to drive APAC: the playful & bespoke; gap for Americas: focus on emotions, 'safety'
engagement more eco NPD and the eco
Brands are innovating in many different Playful packs, disruptive Comforting and escapist NPD is grabbing
ways to help drive engagement with collaborations, and customised and attention by focusing on how scent
fragrances, from tapping into wellness versatile formulas help fragrance makes people feelvs how scent
trends to focusing on value for money, brands stand out in-store and online. smells/is received by others.
helping people create bespoke scents,
and promoting eco, natural and 'free Naturalness remains key and a gap Collaborative scents developed with or
from' merits. exists for more transparency-focused inspired by non-fragrance categories
and 'clean' NPD, and for a bigger focus (eg electric cars) also stood out.
A gap exists for more diversity-focused on sustainability. In APAC, few
NPD, which lags behind that seen in Innovations appealed to a notable
fragrances feature eco claims.
other BPC markets. consumer willingness to buy
'clean'/sustainable scents.
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Our pick of the most innovative launches in this review
Multi-chamber pack for easier Uses wine-cork production off-cuts in lid Handy compact for easy fragrance layering
customisation Obvious uses recycled glass (30%) and Forsmell's Poisonous Apple eau de
The Judith Leiber More is More! fragrance sustainable cork (cap) in its packaging. The parfum/"double layered ointment" with a
(For Him and For Her sets) comprises a "one- mono-material cork lid uses wine-cork "mashed potato paste" texture comprises two
of-a-kind bottle" that stores three scents in production off-cuts, also tapping into separate fragrances housed in a portable duo
separate chambers that can be worn alone or upcycled trends. Cork has made more inroads compartment compact case for easy
mixed to create up to seven bespoke scents. in BPC of late, notably in razors. layering.
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Our pick of the most innovative launches in this review
Nostalgic 'hint of petrol' as electric cars Bottle doubles up as a vase... while still in Blurring between fragrance/household
boom use continues
Ford's Mach-Eau (developed to promote its The KKW Fragrance x Jeff Leatham Sandalwood & Tonka Bean Cologne.
all-electric Mustang Mach-E GT car) targets genderless fragrances promote the re- Fragrance brands continue to blur with air
drivers who will miss the smell of petrol as purposing and versatile merits of perfume care, factoring in that since COVID-19 people
they transition to EV*. It fuses smoky bottles. The decorative clay-inspired bottle who are spending more time at home want
accords, aspects of rubber and an doubles up as a vase. Just place a single their homes to be an oasis of calm. An
‘animal’/Mustang heritage element. flower in the top part of the bottle. example is O Boticário's Aroma & Terapia
wellbeing for skin and homes.
Associate Director Lauren Goodsitt highlights three opportunity areas for innovation in fragrances:
Scent helps to differentiate experiences. As consumers attempt to leave the hardships of the past year behind, they
will look to the fragrance industry to establish new and more uplifting scent associations.
The fragrance industry is not exempt from the inclusivity movement. Brands that expand claims to include non-
irritating/non-alienating claims and those that highlight bioengineered ingredients with no allergens will attract scent-
sensitive consumers.
The rise of ecommerce reveals a need for fragrance brands to create new sampling methods. From discovery sets to
subscription boxes and trial-prior-to-charge business models, brands are innovating to bring scent shopping beyond
note descriptions.
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Global retail market overview: fragrances, 2021
Base: size of each bubble represents the respective size of the market in value (US$ estimate 2021); CAGR is in local currency
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EMEA retail market overview: fragrances, 2021
Sluggish CAGRs in some markets is due to discounting, savvy buying behaviours and competition from scented personal
care. South Africa is a market to watch with highest CAGRs.
Base: size of each bubble represents the respective size of the market in value (US$ estimate 2021); CAGR is in local currency
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Creative ways to boost engagement with fragrances
35%
• tap into ongoing and increasingly established wellness trends;
• focus on value for money;
• align with diversity and inclusive trends;
• appeal to the interest in more unique and customised formulas.
of adults who use fragrances would
choose one fragrance over another
if it
helped them feel relaxed/relieved
stress
Base: UK: 1,359 internet users aged 16+ who use perfume, cologne or aftershave and typically buy the fragrance they use
Wellness-focused scents don't only highlight aromatherapeutic merits but also stand out by being inspired by non-
fragrance markets (eg healthcare, fitness, AI).
Blurs with healthcare supplements Mind-boosting series blurs with fitness Blurs with repellent to mix
Nue Co is blurring with VMS in order to tap markets practicality/pleasure
into health/wellness trends. Its medicinal Wellness brand DOSE* includes mood- Bringing a more pleasurable feel to a
'fragrance supplement' includes Forest Lungs boosting body mists for use in conjunction functional insect repellent market is high end
(reproduces the anti-stress effects of forest with fitness classes: Hiit Me Up (for use pre- brand Diptyque. Its limited edition
bathing); and Mind Energy (improves focus workout to boost energy); and Smells Like Summer Body Spray uses essential oils
and mental clarity). Yoga (calms and "gets you in the zone for selected for their mosquito-repelling
yoga or meditation"). properties (eg lemongrass, geranium).
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Wellness NPD evolves
AI/NFC-connected scent with emotion- Positive emotions for better health Nostalgic marmalade series captures British
focused merits Vyrao 'emotive' natural fragrances aims to summers
Paco Rabanne's Phantom 'connected' scent connect consumers to themselves and Jo Malone's limited edition
comes in a refill bottle that allows amplify their energy and positive emotions so The Great British Summer Fete is inspired by
smartphone users to connect to a 'Phantom that they feel better about themselves. The a quintessentially British summer,
universe' of content*. Also helps wearers feel premise is that positive emotions/feelings marmalade and jam. It evokes happiness by
energised/confident (in line with IFF's contribute to better health. appealing to people's nostalgic sensibilities.
Science of Wellness programme).
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Tap into value trends
Innovations can better target people who are worried about their finances
(amid rising energy prices and shortages), or who re-assessed their
priorities during the pandemic and experimented with – and appreciated –
lower-priced fragrances.
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More affordable private label, body spray and versatile formulas can expand
Discounter offers versatile and escapist Carrefour aims to better compete with Multifunctional body spray for home,
scent Mercadona fabric, skin
Discounter Lidl is adding value to its Dante Eau de Parfum. To compete with Avon Naturals Scented Spritz range promises
affordable fragrances line with a limited Mercadona's cosmetic line, Carrefour has instant freshness. It can be used to refresh
edition and versatile Hello Sun Shine launched Les Cosmetiques Design Paris eau the body, rooms/the home and even linen,
perfumed mist for body/hair, with a 'unique' de cologne, priced at and comes in a range of variants including
signature scent of the brand's sunscreen. A Mango Bay with "the juicy scent of mango."
100ml bottle is priced at €1.28.
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Unisex innovation is rising but brands can better reach diverse consumers
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Unisex fragrances are on the rise in Europe
24
21
20
18
% of launches
17
15
10
0
Oct 2016-Sep 2017 Oct 2017-Sep 2018 Oct 2018-Sep 2019 Oct 2019-Sep 2020 Oct 2020-Sep 2021
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Europe: natural and eco trends remain important
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Meet consumer interest in eco, natural and ethical fragrances
35%
fragrances category and appeal to consumer interest.
Base: UK: 1,359 internet users aged 16+ who use perfume, cologne or aftershave and typically buy the fragrance they use
20
18
% of launches
11
10
8
6 6
0
Botanical Ethical-animal Sustainable Eco package Vegan
Makeup-inspired, plastic-free board Disruptive packs made from nuts and Chanel makes pack changes to minimise
compact recycled cans waste
Made by Me Perfume Palette, inspired by Tåg Solid Perfume is housed in a case made Chanel is undertaking a number of initiatives
makeup, comprises assorted, solid and from Ecuadorian tagua nuts, while the cap is to be more eco-friendly. It has developed
concentrated perfume in handy recyclable made from recycled drink cans. The brand bio-based perfume caps for its
carton compact cases with a bioplastic also aligns with natural/ethical trends, using Les Eaux de Chanel series and developed
varnish – to reduce plastic use to almost pure essential oils, supporting indigenous recycled glass bottles for its iconic Chanel
zero. Can be layered or worn alone. communities etc. N°5.
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Eco NPD still focuses on minimising packaging waste
Refills emerge for brush-on formats Engage with on-pack eco reminders Uses wine-cork production off-cuts
The Jo Loves Paintbrush Gel, first launched Look Labs' Cyber eau de parfum has a light- Obvious uses recycled glass (30%) and
in 2017, is now available in an on-trend more up feature on-pack to remind users to sustainable cork (cap) in its packaging. The
eco-friendly refill format. The slimmer, silver recycle responsibly. With a simple touch, mono-material cork lid uses wine-cork
pen can be refilled with different scent 'recycle' and 'earth' symbols light up to production off-cuts, also tapping into
cartridges. remind users to protect the environment and upcycled trends. Cork has made more inroads
dispose responsibly. in BPC of late, notably in razors.
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Super-luxe fragrance upcycles Swarovski 'green' stock crystals
The resultant exclusive and very limited edition (11 handmade copies)
collectible Bee Bottle is made with Swarovski's 'green' stock of crystals (ie
"leftovers of colours that didnt work well").
In terms of eco/natural NPD: while niche, alcohol-free fragrances are rising and appeal to people worried about skin
sensitivity; upcycled formulas can also expand.
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Spotlight on MEA
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MEA standout innovations
Standout innovations in the MEA region blur with other categories, come in alcohol-free or alternative skin-friendly
formats, and tap into layering/customisation trends.
Blurring with hand sanitiser Fragrance layering balm format set Gentle alcohol-free formula, roller ball
Adding value to hand sanitiser and blurring Perfume Balm Stick Trio is part of the bottle
with fragrances is Beautysta's Essence [Mini] on-the-go, "small, cute and Gandour's Touch range of alcohol-free
Pocket Perfume. It is made with 75% alcohol super practical" beauty/makeup range. It Concentrated Perfume comes in a handy
and positioned as ideal for use as a body mist also taps into layering trends since the three bottle with a rollerball applicator to deliver
and sanitising hand spray. Variants include scents can work alone or mixed/matched to "a touch of scent" to skin. Variants include
Malibu Beach, At Midnight etc. create a bespoke scent. Majestic Oud, Blue, Yellow, Green and Red
Editions.
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ASIA PACIFIC (APAC)
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APAC retail market overview: fragrances, 2021
China, a market where consumers have historically been unaccustomed to perfume, is now a high growth market to
watch – as the perception of/familiarity with fragrance shifts.
Base: size of each bubble represents the respective size of the market in value (US$ estimate 2021); CAGR is in local currency
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Engage with consumers in-store, in-home and especially online
70%
consumers online, the pandemic having further boosted the fortunes of
ecommerce. Indeed, in China, online is now the primary purchase channel
for fragrances.
Base: China: 2,182 internet users aged 18-49 who have bought fragrances in the last six months
Assorted trial kit in playful Ferris wheel Australian beer brand moves into Artistic series aims to reach
pack fragrances creative/trendy types
Scentooze, a creative Chinese perfume brand Australian beer brand Victoria Bitter has Chinese fragrance brand Boitown has
for young women, is driving to encourage launched Thirst, a men's fragrance for hard- collaborated with French artist illustrator
trial, experimentation and gifting with the working Australians who want to socialise and "tattoo apprentice" Léna Macka to reach
launch of a playful Ferris wheel-inspired set and celebrate the end of a working day. In young creatives. The series includes eau de
that holds eight vials of the brand’s keeping with the beer heritage, it uses VB parfum and an on-trend and on-the-go solid
bestselling scents. super pride hop extract. Perfume Pencil Set.
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Customisation trends continue to inspire innovation
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Innovations focus on customising the scent...
Layering Toppers enliven interest in iconic More than layering, a joyful scent Handy compact for easy fragrance layering
scent experience Forsmell's Poisonous Apple eau de
Celebrating the 40 year anniversary of The Bulgari Allegra is all about creating a joyful parfum/"double layered ointment" with a
Body Shop's iconic White Musk eau de toilette scent experience based around emotions. It "mashed potato paste" texture comprises two
is a White Musk Toppers eau de parfum series comprises five eau de parfum (in colourful separate fragrances housed in a portable duo
(Radical, Lover and Free variants) to layer bottles), and five "magnifying essences" (in compartment compact case for easy
with the iconic scent and create a bespoke all-white flacons) to combine with the layering.
signature scent. parfums or wear alone.
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....and the packaging
For both hair and body With collagen and vitamins C and E to care Fragrance releasing patch for face masks
The Silkygirl Fragrance Mist for Hair 'n' Body for skin Skincare brand Hanna Glow has diversified
series blurs with haircare and aims to leave Bringing added value and multiple benefits to and factored in the ongoing pandemic and
both the body and hair smelling fragrant. fragrances is the Chamé Perfume Body Mist mask-wearing habits. Its Aroma Patch for
Comes in Pure Bliss, Magic Dream and Love range (in Daisy Dream and Sparkling Kiss face masks releases a eucalyptus or
Bloom options. variants). It contains collagen and vitamins C peppermint aroma (for up to eight hours) to
and E to care for skin as it fragrances. make mask-wearing more pleasant.
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APAC: natural demands and expectations hold strong
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Naturalness above all
Base: China: 2,182 internet users aged 18-49 who have bought fragrances in the last six months
Fragrances are increasingly flagging the use of botanical ingredients – use for their scent and to denote
naturalness/safety. Other natural and 'free from' claims are niche.
APAC: fragrances launches by select natural and free from claims, 2016-17 vs 2020-21
30
21
20
% of launches
5 5
2 2 2
1 1 1
0
Botanical Ethical-toxins free Alcohol-free Organic No
additives/
preservatives
Innovations are promoting the use of plant-based alcohol in an effort to convey skin-friendliness and suitability for
sensitive skin.
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Natural fragrances align with eco trends
Eco, vegan, 90% natural, for younger Solid format, alcohol-free, metal case Pure and refillable format
generation Rumah Atsiri, a wellness and natural Barrio's No Man's Land in Kashmir eau de
Rochas Girl eau de toilette targets a "new essential oils company, has launched parfum taps into natural and eco trends. It
generation" of conscious young women who Solid Perfume that blurs with skincare and uses a 'natural and pure' fragrance (15%
are attentive to their and the planet's taps into natural and eco trends. It is perfume) and comes in portable and durable
wellbeing – hence why it is vegan, uses 90% alcohol-free, natural-based, hydrates skin 10ml glass tubes wrapped in leather that can
natural ingredients, and comes in a bottle and comes in a plastic-free metal case. be reused/refilled.
that uses 40% recycled glass.
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THE AMERICAS
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Americas retail market overview: fragrances, 2021
In Latin America, high engagement with scent bodes well for the market. In contrast, the market is contracting in the
US as people trade down or rely on scented personal care.
Base: size of each bubble represents the respective size of the market in value (US$ estimate 2021); CAGR is in local currency
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Many tactics are used to drive fragrance usage/purchase
Over the past 12 months, fragrances launches have tried to grab people's
attention in an array of ways.
IN THE US Tried and tested, and still driving innovation, are collaborative fragrances
developed with or inspired by non-fragrance categories, artists, influencers
42%+
etc.
Base: US: 1,710 internet users aged 18+ who use any fragrance and/or scented personal care products
Brush-on tube, pleasurable feeling on Brings comfort to grieving mother Escapist mood-lifting trio of fragrance oils
application After a social media appeal, O Boticário Summer Fridays The Trio Perfume Oil (Wave,
Tubed fragrances with sensorial brush-on recreated exclusive units of an offline Soft Vanilla and Crisp Citrus) promises to lift
applicators, perfume from 1984, Annete, in order to bring users' mood and "transport users to a tropical
first appearing in Europe/North America in 2 comfort to a mother who lost her son to escape," "recall the delights of a French
017 COVID-19. The scent was her son's favourite. patisserie" or "feel like sipping an icy
are expanding. Now in Brazil, O Boticário's limoncello."
brush-on version of Lily Absolu aims to make
scent application more pleasurable and
precise.
Exclusive 'drop' positioning Sol de Janeiro's first artist collaboration Nostalgic 'hint of petrol' as electric cars
Travx Space Rage was created after a team- Sol de Janeiro has collaborated with an artist boom
up between Byredo and Cactus Jack (rapper for the first time, with Anitta (a Brazilian Ford's Mach-Eau (developed to promote its
Travis Scott's label). To convey exclusivity, it celebrity/'megastar'), to launch a refreshing all-electric Mustang Mach-E GT car) targets
was distributed as a 'drop' – inspired by vegan Perfume Mist. It is set to especially drivers who will miss the smell of petrol as
distribution models in the streetwear appeal to younger consumers. they transition to EV*. It fuses smoky
category. accords, aspects of rubber and an
'animal'/Mustang heritage element.
Truly's first scent blurs with its body butter Blurring between fragrance/household
Skincare brand Truly's first signature scent continues
pays homage to its cult favourite Unicorn Fragrance brands continue to blur with air
Fruit Body Butter. The care, factoring in that since COVID-19 people
Unicorn Fruit Eau De Parfum brings out "the who are spending more time at home want
irresistible aroma" of the body butter in a their homes to be an oasis of calm. An
more concentrated personal scent. example is O Boticário's Aroma & Terapia
wellbeing for skin and homes.
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Help people trial-before-buy in the comfort of their own homes
Moreover, such kits can appeal to consumers who are hesitant to test
fragrances in-stores given on-going hygiene concerns linked to COVID-19.
The sets hold three tester scents and their full-size counterparts.
Customers are only charged for the scents they keep and all others must be
sent back after the seven-day trial period.
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Americas: continue to convey 'safety' and eco-friendliness
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Willingness to try 'clean' and sustainable fragrances is high
Few people are worried that the ingredients in fragrances are bad for
health. But, that does not mean that people are disengaged with more
IN THE US natural formulas.
Indeed, the spotlight on 'clean beauty' seen across broader BPC markets,
64%+
and a more discerning consumer (who tends to research the ingredients
used in fragrances) bodes well the natural/'clean' fragrances segment.
Base: US: 1,710 internet users aged 18+ who use any fragrance and/or scented personal care products
Latin America: fragrances launches by the top North America: fragrances launches by the top
five fastest-growing claims, 2016-17 vs 2020-21 five fastest-growing claims, 2016-17 vs 2020-21
30 40
33
20 21 30 26
20
12 Oct 2016-Sep 2017 20 17
Oct 2016-Sep 2017
% of launches
% of launches
11 10 14
9 13 13
10 Oct 2020-Sep 2021 11 Oct 2020-Sep 2021
5 10 5
3 3
0 0 0
0 0
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Source: Mintel GNPD, October 2016-September 2021, Latin America and North America Read on mintel.com
Natural/eco innovations focus on the ingredients
Tapping into natural and eco trends are innovations that promote the organic, 'clean', non-toxic, upcycled and
alcohol-free formulas.
Eco alcohol from sugarcane bagasse Eco range with upcycled ingredients Alcohol-free, oil-based, skin-friendly
From 2021, O Boticário is to use an eco The Cyzone Pure eau de parfum range Touting a skin-friendly, alcohol-free free
alcohol from sugarcane bagasse in its (Bloom, Breeze and Vibes variants) uses 95% formula is Nest Fragrances' Perfume Oils
fragrances to help the brand achieve its natural origin ingredients including upcycled (Turkish Rose, Seville Orange, South Pacific
sustainability goals. It has also launched OUi, ingredients (eg peels, fruits and vegetables). Sandalwood, Madagascar Vanilla, Indian
created in France and paying tribute to high The eco pack uses sugarcane and 20% Jasmine) that use a single hero note and
end French perfumery. recycled glass. nourishing on-trend baobab oil.
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Natural/eco innovations focus on the ingredients
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Promote the re-purposing merits of fragrance packaging
Rosalia Di Gesu
Global Beauty & Personal Care Analyst
[email protected]