 INTRODUCTION TO PRINTING:

Printing is the process of transfer of a design or artwork on to textile materials, providing

a decorative look. Printing is a surface ornamentation technique on fabric surface.

 Methods of printing
 Hand block printing
 Perrotine printing

 Engraved copperplate printing

 Roller printing, cylinder printing, or machine printing

 Stencil printing

 Screen-printing

SCREEN-PRINTING:

In this method of printing, screens are used to print on the fabric. The mesh on the
screens is coated with a special substance on the areas where the design or the print is not
required.

 Types of Screen Printing:

1. Manual Screen Printing
2. Automatic Screen Printing

Machine Mix :

Machine Type Category

Screen Shot Auto Screen Shot
Manual Screen Shot
Drying Auto Dryer
Hand Dryer
 Expose Shot Auto Expose Shot
Manual Expose Shot
Heat Press Depend on Pressure &
Temperature range
Curing Depend on
Temperature and Belt
speed

Steps before making screen printing:

1. Design selection

2. Screen preparation

3. Print paste preparation

4. Drying & steaming.

5. Washing
Material Recovered:

1. Printing table

2. Screens

3. Bed on the printing table

4. Book grey

5. Fabric to be printed

6. Squeeze

7. Drying system

8. Hand washing
  Work Flow Chart: Material Flow
Information Flow

Buyer Development Design Expose Room

Sample & Bulk

Color Room Approval

Fabric Input Bulk Production Drying Curing

(Cutting/Sewing

Delivery Quality Control

Design Development :

Artwork Received from Development

Detail design perform & analyze

By
Adobe Photoshop & Illustrator

Prepare individual film for different color

By
Work Express Software
 Send to Expose Room

Screen Preparation:

Screen (or image transfer) preparation includes a number of steps. First the customer
provides the screen printer with objects, photographs, text, ideas, or concepts of what
they wish to have printed. The printer must then transfer a "picture" of the artwork (also
called "copy") to be printed into an "image" (a picture on film) which can then be
processed and eventually used to prepare the screen.

Once the artwork is transferred to a positive image that will be chemically processed onto
the screen fabric (applying the emulsion or stencil) and eventually mounted onto a screen
frame that is then attached to the printing press and production begins

Screen Preparation Flow Chart :

Mesh fabric tight with frame

Applied chemical TXR (sensitizing emulsion) on the mesh & dried 8 min in air.

Placed design paper under the mesh.

Light passes through the design paper & mesh fabric for 3-4 min.

Remove the colored TXR from the design area by water spraying.

Expose Room work flow

Metal Frame

Mash Fabric

TXR/SP (Sensitizing Photo Emulsion)

Screen Frame

Hardening
 Wash

Expose Shot

 TYPES OF PRINT :

1. Rubber print
2. Pigment print
3. Discharge print
4. Glitter print
5. Foil print
6. High Density print
7. Reflective print
8. Metallic print
9. Flock print
10. Plastisol print
11. Gel print
12. Puff Print
13. Sticker Print
14. Crack Print
15. Heat transfer print,
16. Photo print,
17. Emboss print, Radium print,
18. Suede print,
19. Reflect print,
Sample of Print :

Rubber print

Pigment print
Discharge print

Glitter print
Foil print

High Density print

Reflective print

Metallic print
Flock print

Plastisol print
Gel print

Puff Print
Sticker Print

Crack Print
Heat transfer print,

Emboss print,
PRODUCTION PROCESS :

Auto Screen Shot :

 Faster production

 High color combination

 Immediate drying between two consecutive print.

Not suitable for……

 Large & complete body print.

 High-density, Flock & multiple color Discharge print.

Auto Screen Shot Machine :

Manual Screen Shot :
 Consuming.
 Drying Generally all types of print are performed.
 More time performed by Hand or Auto dryer.
 Print quality depends on printer consciousness & sincerity.

Heat Press Machine :

 Generally used for Foil & Sticker print.
 Matt and Glossy appearance also provide by this technique.
 Print performed at a certain temperature & pressure.

Heat Press Machine -

Curing:
 Curing is the ultimate drying of print.
 Proper Curing is the vital issue for a quality print.
 Curing also liable for fabric shade change due to high temperature.

Curing Machine

Drying:
 Drying is performed by two ways,
a) Hand drying
b) Auto drying
 It is performed to dry previous color temporarily.
 Color migration occurred due to improper drying of previous color.

Hand dryer

EMBROIDERY SECTION
  INTRODUCTION OF EMBROIDERY:

Embroidery is the art or handicraft of decorating fabric or other materials with needle and
thread or yarn. Embroidery may also incorporate other materials such as metal strips,
pearls, beads, quills, and sequins.

A characteristic of embroidery is that the basic techniques or stitches of the earliest work
—chain stitch, buttonhole or blanket stitch, running stitch, satin stitch, cross stitch—
remain the fundamental techniques of hand embroidery today.

Machine embroidery, arising in the early stages of the Industrial Revolution, mimics hand
embroidery, especially in the use of chain stitches, but the "satin stitch" and hemming
stitches of machine work rely on the use of multiple threads and resemble hand work in
their appearance, not their construction.

 Embroidery Machine Specification :

Embroidery machine two types -

 Manual machine
 Computerized machine

Computerized embroidery machine :

Most modern embroidery machines are computer controlled and specifically engineered
for embroidery. Industrial and commercial embroidery machines and combination
sewing-embroidery machines have a hooping or framing system that holds the framed
area of fabric taut under the sewing needle and moves it automatically to create a design
from a pre-programmed digital embroidery pattern.

A multi-needle machine may consist of multiple sewing heads, each of which can sew the
same design onto a separate garment concurrently. Such a machine might have 20 or
more heads, each consisting of 15 or more needles. A head is usually capable of
producing many special fabric effects, including satin stitch embroidery, chain stitch
embroidery, sequins, appliqué, and cutwork.
Computerized embroidery machine

 Software Used for Embroidery – WELCOME – 9(version)

 Process Flow Chart:

Art work from buyer

Input to Welcome - 9 (Software)

Design analysis

Send to buyer

Recommendation & correction from buyer

Sample prepares

Send to buyer
 If approved then for bulk production

Trimming

Quality Check

Delivery (Finishing)

 Embroidery Method :

1. By Bed
2. By Ring

Bed -

Ring
The Computerized Machine Embroidery Process :

The basic steps for creating embroidery with a computerized embroidery machine are as
follows:

 Purchase Or Create A Digitized Embroidery Design File

 Edit The Design and/or Combine With Other Designs (Optional)
 Load The Final Design File Into The Embroidery Machine
 Stabilize The Fabric And Place It In The Machine
 Start And Monitor The Embroidery Machine

 Types Of Embroidery Thread:

1. Polyester Thread
2. Lorex or metallic
3. Filament
4. Cotton Thread

Thread Brand:
 Brand Country Measurement
01. Madira Germany 2500 Cone
02. Coats Japan 3000 Cone
03. well Bangladesh 3000 Cone
04. Basic Bangladesh 5000 Cone
05. Pearl Bangladesh 3000 Cone

 Others Accessories For Embroidery:

 Interlining-tear able/ non tear able

 Adhesive
 Spray Gum
 Fusing-Non woven, woven
 Felt
 Adhesive Spray
 Bobbin Thread (always cotton)
 Dye Cut/Laser Cut
 Sequence

 Types of Interlining:

Basically of Interlining Three Types –

1. Tearable
 Dot line
 Biscout

2. Non - Tearable
 Soft
 Hard
3. Water Soluble

Fusing Two Types :

1. Doted Fusing / Normal
2. Woven Fusing
  STITCH TYPES OF EMBROIDERY:
These were just few out of the many different types of embroidery stitches. Stitches are
used for basic sewing or decorative purposes. By slightly altering the stitching style, a
completely different look can be achieved.

Types of embroidery include every sort of ornamental work done with a sewing needle of
any kind. Embroidery may be done on any number of fabrics from satin to canvas.
Embroiderers, know for their resourcefulness, experiment and learn from others which
kind of stitch and thread works best and proceed to produce wonderful works of art,
many times mixing types of embroidery.


 Tatami Stitch
 Chain stitch
 Satin Stitch
 Run Stitch
 Motif Stitch
 Triple Run Stitch
 Appliqué Embroidery
 Normal Embroidery
 Chicken Embroidery
 Boring Embroidery
 Sequined Embroidery
 Eye lit Embroidery

Satin Stitch
A satin stitch is a line, border or edge produced by thread being alternately stitched to
either side of a baseline. Satin stitches are generally limited to a maximum of 1/2" in
stitch length before some alternate technique must be used, such as split stitching or fill
stitching.

Chain Stitch :
Chain stitches catch a loop of the thread on the surface of the fabric. In the simplest of the
looped stitches, the chain stitch, the needle comes up from the back of the fabric and then
the needle goes back into the same hole it came out of, pulling the loop of thread almost
completely through to the back; but before the loop disappears, the needle come back up
(a certain distance from the beginning stitch -the distance deciding the length of the
stitch), passes through the loop and prevents it from being pulled completely to the back
of the fabric. The needle then passes back to the back of the fabric through the second
hole and begins the stitch again.
Zigzag Stitch-
Tatami

Steam Stitch -
Run Stitch -

Sequence Embroidery-
Motif Run-

 Embroidery Faults:
 Shade Variation/Uneven Shade
 Embroidery Side/Bias
 Needle Hole
 Spot/Oil Spot
 Interlining/Thread Color Mistake
 Embroidery Grading Mistake
 Embroidery Position Wrong
 Embroidery Slanted/Color Shade
 After Curing Fabrics Shade Variation
 Print Stickiness/Print Curve
 Print Color Bleeding
 Glazed Mark
 After Wash Color Bleed
 Over Print/Over Lapping
 Radish/Yellow’s/Blues Tone
 Measurement Discrepancy At Embroidery