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    Apparel Production Techniques of Formal Shirt

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    SWARNIKA SRIVASTAVA
    The document summarizes the key apparel production techniques used in making a formal check shirt. It describes: 1) The types of seams and stitches used in different parts of the shirt like the collar, armhole, and pocket. Single needle lock stitch, overlock stitch, and chain stitch are used. 2) The machines employed like plain lockstitch machine, buttonhole machine, and feed off arm machine. 3) The spreading and marker modes used which are determined by the fabric's directionality. For the formal shirt pattern, a nap one way, face one way spreading is used for highest quality.

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    Apparel Production Techniques of Formal Shirt

    Uploaded by

    SWARNIKA SRIVASTAVA
    264 views19 pages
    The document summarizes the key apparel production techniques used in making a formal check shirt. It describes: 1) The types of seams and stitches used in different parts of the shirt like the collar, armhole, and pocket. Single needle lock stitch, overlock stitch, and chain stitch are used. 2) The machines employed like plain lockstitch machine, buttonhole machine, and feed off arm machine. 3) The spreading and marker modes used which are determined by the fabric's directionality. For the formal shirt pattern, a nap one way, face one way spreading is used for highest quality.

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    Apparel production techniques of formal shirt

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    The document summarizes the key apparel production techniques used in making a formal check shirt. It describes: 1) The types of seams and stitches used in different parts of the shirt like the collar, armhole, and pocket. Single needle lock stitch, overlock stitch, and chain stitch are used. 2) The machines employed like plain lockstitch machine, buttonhole machine, and feed off arm machine. 3) The spreading and marker modes used which are determined by the fabric's directionality. For the formal shirt pattern, a nap one way, face one way spreading is used for highest quality.

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd
    Download as pdf or txt
    264 views19 pages

    Apparel Production Techniques of Formal Shirt

    Uploaded by

    SWARNIKA SRIVASTAVA
    The document summarizes the key apparel production techniques used in making a formal check shirt. It describes: 1) The types of seams and stitches used in different parts of the shirt like the collar, armhole, and pocket. Single needle lock stitch, overlock stitch, and chain stitch are used. 2) The machines employed like plain lockstitch machine, buttonhole machine, and feed off arm machine. 3) The spreading and marker modes used which are determined by the fabric's directionality. For the formal shirt pattern, a nap one way, face one way spreading is used for highest quality.

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    © All Rights Reserved
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    The document discusses different techniques used in apparel production like types of seams, stitches, machines, spreading and marker modes used for shirt manufacturing.

    The main types of seams and stitches discussed are superimposed seam, bound seam, lapped seam and edge finishing seam. Different machine types and their uses are also listed.

    Sewing machines like lockstitch, overlock and chainstitch machines. Non-sewing machines include fusing machine, iron and collar turning machine are used. Specific machine types and their application in different parts of the shirt are provided.

    APPAREL PRODUCTION TECHNIQUES

    MFM (2020-2022)
    NIFT, Jodhpur

    Assignment-1 Submitted by:


    Submitted to:
    Formal Check Shirt Aditya Sharma
    Dr. Yuvraj Garg
    Anshika Goel
    Archi Tyagi
    Meenal Maheshwari
    Simran Mehta
    Swarnika Srivastava
    Vaishnavi Singh
    FORMAL CHECK SHIRT

    FABRIC SWATCH
    FRONT BACK
    TYPES OF SEAMS AND STITCHES IN THE SHIRT
    MACHINE TYPE AND STITCH CLASS USED

    STITCH STITCH SEAM


    S.No. PARTS MACHINE TYPE SEAM TYPE
    CLASS APPEARANCE APPEARANCE

    Single needle lock Superimposed


    1. Collar 301
    stitch seam Ssa-1
    Shoulder Three thread overlock Superimposed
    2. 504
    attachment seam Ssa-1
    Single needle lock Superimposed
    3. Armhole 301
    stitch seam Ssa-1
    Sleeve Five thread overlock
    4. 514 Bound seam
    attachment Bse-1
    Single needle lock
    5. Pocket 301 Lapped seam
    stitch Lsd-1
    Multi needle chain Edge finishing
    6. Pocket hem 401
    stitch seam Efa-1
    STITCH STITCH SEAM
    S.No. PARTS MACHINE TYPE SEAM TYPE APPEARANCE
    CLASS APPEARANCE

    Multi needle chain Edge finishing


    6. Sleeve Placket 401
    stitch seam Efb-1

    7. Button hole Button hole machine 301

    Multi needle chain Superimposed


    8. Side seam 401
    stitch seam Ssa-1
    Button
    9. Zig-zag lock stitch 304
    attachment

    Superimposed
    10. Cuff Zig-zag lock stitch 304
    seam Ssa-1
    Single needle lock Edge finishing
    11. Bottom hem 301
    stitch seam Efb-1
    Superimposed
    6. Side attachment Five thread overlock 514
    seam Ssa-1
    MACHINES USED

    I. SEWING MACHINES

    ● Plain Machine or Lockstitch Machine: Used for collar, collar stand, pocket,
    sleeve, etc.

    ● Double Needle Lockstitch Machine: Creating parallel and decorative stitches,


    cuff, etc.

    Plain Machine or Lockstitch Machine

    Double Needle Lockstitch Machine


    Button Stitching Machine

    ● Button Stitching Machine: Attaching button to front placket and


    cuff.

    ● Button Hole Machine: Making buttonholes.

    Button Hole Machine


    ● Kansai or Multi Needle Chain Stitch Machine: ● Zigzag Lock Stitch Sewing Machine: Used for
    Used for front placket and armhole. button stand.

    Zigzag Lock Stitch Sewing Machine


    Kansai or Multi Needle Chain
    Stitch Machine
    ● Feed Off the Arm: Used for side seam.

    Feed Off the Arm Machine


    II. NON-SEWING MACHINES

    ● Fusing Machine: For collar and cuff.

    ● Iron: For folding and pressing.

    ● Collar and Cuff Turning Machine: For collar and cuff turn and iron.
    Fusing Machine

    Industrial Iron Collar and Cuff Turning Machine


    SPREADING MODE

    ● A spreading mode is the manner in which the fabric piles are laid out for cutting.

    ● A proper spreading process in garments may affect on productivity, quality, and cost of the production. Fabric spreading is very
    important task to maintain proper shape of the fabric before cutting of garments.

    ● Two fabric characteristics that determine the spreading mode are the direction of the fabric face and direction of fabric nap and
    the pattern of the garment.

    Spreading Machine
    DIRECTION OF FABRIC NAP

    ● The surface directionality


    or the view of the fabric is
    called a nap.

    ● Nap decides asymmetry or


    symmetry of the fabric

    ● Symmetric fabrics have no


    nap direction i.e there is
    no change in the
    appearance when the
    fabric is turned 180
    No visible nap of the fabric, therefore it is a symmetric fabric degrees in the same plane.
    DIRECTION OF FABRIC FACE

    FACE - ONE - WAY

    ● All the plies are spread in both


    directions, with their faces side up.

    ● After a ply is laid it is cut across its


    width from the roll of cloth.

    Placement of fabric plies performing in a ‘face one way in both directions’ spreading ● To ensure that the face side in all plies is
    mode
    upward, the cloth roll at the end of each
    ply has to be rotated around 180 °.
    FORMAL SHIRT PATTERN

    Patch pocket with flap

    In this pattern, Front, sleeve and sleeve lap is


    asymmetric whereas back, back yoke, cuff,
    collar, collar stand and patch pocket is
    symmetric.
    MARKER MODE

    ● The marker mode is determined by fabric symmetry and directionality of fabric.

    ● The term nap is used to indicate the fabric is directional it is different end to end and it is created by its structure (cut and uncut
    piles, finish or a directional print).

    Open, Nap-one-way (N/O/W) marker

    ● This marker mode consists of all the pattern pieces


    facing in one direction, towards top generally.

    ● It’s common with asymmetric fabrics or directional


    prints, where direction of the nap or the print face an
    important feature in the garment.

    ● The open, N/O/W marker uses F/O/W, N/O/W


    spreading mode for highest quality.

    ● However, the speed of this spreading mode is slower


    and the marker layout is less economical.
    Nap One Way, Face One Way (NOW, F/O/W)

    [1] Spread the fabric by pulling out the desired length from the roll.
    ● The highest quality of spreading is
    achieved.

    ● Each layer of fabric is spread with the face


    up.

    ● The fabric is spread in one direction only,


    from the end of the table to the beginning.

    ● For this mode of spreading, the patterns in


    an open marker are placed N/O/W.

    ● Good for one way fabrics

    ● Laying efficiency around 50%


    Nap one way, face one way (NOW, FOW) illustration
    (manual cutting) This is a slow method of spreading however, because after
    each layer is spread, the fabric is cut at the end and the
    [2] Cut the piece away from the roll, repeat [1]
    machine and operator transverse back to the opposite end of
    the table to begin spreading the next layer of fabric (known as
    “deadheading”, which means traveling without a load). This
    process is repeated until all the plies needed are spread.
    FABRIC PARAMETER

    Fabric Composition 100% Cotton Fabric Swatch

    Fabric Construction Woven

    Weave Type Plain Weave

    GSM Medium Weight

    EPI x PPI 120 x 180

    Coloration Technique Yarn Dyed, Printed Colour Combination:


    Red and White Checks
    TRIMS

    Label 1 Care label, 1 Brand Label

    Buttons 7 Plastic buttons( at front ),


    2x2 (Handcuffs)

    Thread Polyester

    Interlining Fusible (Collar & Handcuffs)


    THANK YOU!

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