@WellaProfessionals

HAIR COLOR
THE FACTS EVERY COLORIST SHOULD KNOW

@wellahair

www.wella.com

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 04 HOW DOES PERMANENT
OXIDATIVE HAIR COLOR WORK?

06 ME+ THE REVOLUTIONARY MOLECULE

08 A CLOSER LOOK AT ALKALIZING AGENTS

10 PURE BALANCE TECHNOLOGY

12 FACTS ABOUT ALLERGIES

14 Q&A ALLERGIES

16 FACTS ABOUT SCALP DISCOMFORT

18 Q&A SCALP DISCOMFORT

20 TIPS TO MINIMIZE SCALP DISCOMFORT

CONTENTS 22 ALLERGY ALERT TEST

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 HOW DOES
PERMANENT
OXIDATIVE HAIR
COLOR work?
THE KEY COMPONENTS OF OXIDATIVE HAIR COLORANTS ARE
ȩȩ Oxidative dye primaries & couplers
ȩȩ Alkalizing agent
OXI DATI VE
ȩȩ Hydrogen peroxide COLOR A N T

The alkalizing agent helps to open the outer hair

layer. The oxidative primaries can then enter the
hair fiber itself, reacting with oxidative couplers.
This all takes place inside the hair fiber to form COUP L E R
colored dyes which are too big to move out of the
hair shaft so they remain in the hair providing
permanent color.

PRIMARY

PPD AND PTD IN HAIR COLORANTS

Today, a variety of dye primaries are used in hair colorants to create a

full shade palette. Among them are two that are very common and more
controversial because of their potential to cause an allergic reaction. They
are paraphenylenediamine (pPD) and paratoluenediamine (pTD),

They are dye molecules used commonly in the hair color industry for
decades because of their color performance, especially when it comes to
lastingness and coverage of permanent colors.

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 THE
THIS IS HOW AN ALLERGIC REACTION
COULD HAPPEN:

REVOLUTIONARY ȩȩ Everything that enters our bodies

is checked by so called T-cells for
potential danger.

MOLECULE ȩȩ Sometimes they identify harmless

substances as dangerous and
cause allergic reaction. This is the
Until today, the most used primaries in permanent case for PPD and PTD.
hair color are PPD/PTD, for rich colors that ȩȩ Their shape can activate an
perfectly cover gray hair. We have created a new immune response. This is how
dye ME+, and formulated Koleston Perfect without allergies occur.
PPD and PTD, reducing the risk of developing new
allergies to hair color, while still creating rich shiny
colors with perfect gray coverage.

At Wella Professionals, it is our mission to keep

innovating with the healthiest technology. We We have made a radical change. Wella Professionals are
know that allergies are on the rise, everywhere. the first in the industry to replace PPT / PTD with a new
Beauty products and professional hair color are not primary molecule ME+. Its molecular shape doesn‘t fit the
immune to the problem. receptor of the T-Cells so easily. That reduces the risk of
developing a new allergy to hair color.

In fact pPD and pTD can potentially trigger a new allergy in non-
allergic people. Consider your clients today. Some might develop
a new allergy to hair color in the future. That´s why we took up
the challenge to protect them.
UP TO 60X LESS LIKELY
TO DEVELOP A NEW
ALLERGY TO HAIR COLOR

*FOR PEOPLE ALLERGIC TO HAIR COLORANTS

ALTHOUGH THE RISK OF DEVELOPING A NEW ALLERGY IS REDUCED, THERE REMAINS A RISK OF ALLERGIC REACTION THAT CAN BE SEVERE.
ALWAYS PERFORM AN ALLERGY ALERT TEST 48H BEFORE EACH COLORATION. STRICTLY FOLLOW SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS AND CONSULT WWW.
WELLA.COM/KOLESTONPERFECT. IF YOUR CLIENT HAS EVER EXPERIENCED AN ALLERGIC REACTION TO HAIR COLORANTS, YOU SHOULD NOT
COLOR. ME+ IS PRESENT IN SPECIFIC SHADES OF PURE NATURALS, RICH NATURALS, VIBRANT REDS, SPECIAL BLONDE AND DEEP BROWNS OF
THE KOLESTON PERFECT BRAND.

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 A CLOSER LOOK AT
alkalizing
agents MEA
It’s true MEA does not smell! However,
because it does not evaporate so easily,
when used at high concentrations it remains
on the hair, keeping on damaging the hair
until properly rinsed.

In higher concentration the MEA might stay

on the hair – even after shampooing, and
could cause long-term damage.

In lower concentrations MEA is fine like in

our demi-permanent colours. But at higher
concentrations scientific studies have proven
that at equal effectiveness ammonia reduces
hair damage when compared to MEA.

THE TWO MAIN ALKILIZERS USED FOR

OXIDATIVE COLORS ARE AMMONIA AND MEA

At Wella Professionals we observe more and more brands

talking about no ammonia or ammonia-free permanent colors.
The truth is that ammonia free doesn’t mean damage free.
HYDROGEN
AMMONIA
It’s a small molecule that when it contacts hair, causes the
PEROXIDE H2O2
cuticles to open so the color can penetrate the hair. As soon Hydrogen Peroxide is needed to oxidate the primaries
as it does, the ammonia molecules quickly evaporate and and coupler and form the colored dye molecules. Once
that’s what makes it briefly smell. The smell is a good sign: they precursors enter the hair shaft, the oxidation process
it means the chemicals are leaving the hair. Ammonia-free creates the large dye molecules that can stay permanently
doesn‘t mean damage-free, in fact the replacement chemicals inside the hair. Additionally, the hydrogen peroxide lightens
can be even more damaging, like MEA. some of the natural melanin, providing lift to virgin hair.

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 KOLESTON PERFECT
OUR BEST PERMANENT
COLOR EVER
PURE BALANCE TECHNOLOGY. HOW IT WORKS

Metals are present in hair, coming from PURE BALANCE TECHNOLOGY helps
water and through our body. They are deactivating metals, which minimizes the
more concentrated in the porous hair ends. formation of free radicals to help protecting
Metals are not harmful, but when hydrogen hair bonds and minimize damage during
peroxide meets with them they contribute coloring and for outstanding control of the
to the formation of free radicals right color formation from root to tip.

Free radicals can attack

and break the bonds
responsible for the hair
integrity, causing damage.
x

Free radicals can also interfere with We have created a new primary molecule, ME+, and
the color formation. They distract formulated FOR
Koleston
1
Perfect
PEOPLE NOT ALLERGICwithout PPD and PTD,
TO HAIR COLORANTS.
Although the risk of developing new allergy is reduced, there remains a risk of allergic reaction that can be
couplers from meeting the right reducing thesevere.
riskAlways
of developing new allergies to hair
perform an allergy alert test 48h before color, Strictly follow safety instructions
each coloration.
and consult www.wella.com/XYZ. If your client has ever experienced an allergic reaction to hair colorants,
primaries, so wrong color molecules while still creating rich colors + that shine.
you should not color. ME is present in specific shades of Pure Naturals, Rich Naturals, Vibrant Reds, Special
can be formed and result in a shift in Blonde and Deep Browns of the Koleston Perfect brand.

color tones. 1
FOR PEOPLE NOT ALLERGIC TO HAIR COLORANTS.
Although the risk of developing new allergy is reduced, there remains a risk of allergic reaction that can be severe. Always perform an allergy alert test
48h before each coloration. Strictly follow safety instructions and consult www.wella.com/XYZ. If your client has ever experienced an allergic reaction to
hair colorants, you should not color. ME+ is present in specific shades of Pure Naturals, Rich Naturals, Vibrant Reds, Special Blonde and Deep Browns of the
Koleston Perfect brand.

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 the facts There are two main types of adverse reactions that may be experienced :
IRRITANT REACTIONS AND SCALP DISCOMFORT

ABOUT allergies ȩȩ Are the most common adverse reactions and should not be confused with allergic
reactions.
ȩȩ May cause tingling, itching and in few cases a slight redness of the skin.
ȩȩ Do not involve the immune system.
ȩȩ Are limited to the site of contact.
ȩȩ Can vary from day to day depending on a huge number of factors e.g. whether the client
has washed their hair in the morning.
ȩȩ Are usually caused by a reaction to peroxide.
ȩȩ Clears up rapidly after ceasing to use the product that is causing the problem.

ALLERGIC REACTIONS
ȩȩ Excessive reactions by our bodies to substances in our environment that are harmless to
the majority.
ȩȩ Unlike irritant reactions, allergic reactions involve the body’s immune system.
ȩȩ Possible symptoms can start with skin discomfort (burning, itching) and become severe,
dizziness, blisters, faintness, shortness of breath or swelling. Immediate medical attention
should be sought.
ȩȩ On rare occasions hair color can become an allergen and cause an allergic reaction. Usually
caused by the hair color molecule e.g. PPD or PTD.
ȩȩ For allergic consumers the recommendation is to never use oxidative hair color and to
seek medical advice.
WHAT ARE ALLERGIES?
Allergies are unusual reactions to substances in our
environment. An allergic reaction is a reaction by our
immune system against normally harmless foreign
substances, also called allergens. They are very
widespread and present in the natural environment, in
all types of foods, clothes and objects used every day.
The human body can react to substances inhaled,
swallowed, injected or come into contact with the
skin. The large majority of people will never become
allergic to a particular substance and are to use products
containing allergens without any problems.

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 QUESTIONS
AND ANSWERS
ALLERGIEs
WHAT DO I DO IF MY CLIENT SHOWS CAN I APPLY NEW KOLESTON PERFECT ON WHAT COLOR SHOULD I USE TO CARRY OUT WHAT DO I DO IF I’M NOT SURE WHETHER THE
SYMPTOMS OF AN ALLERGIC REACTION? CLIENTS WITH AN EXISTING ALLERGY TO HAIR THE ALLERGY ALERT TEST? ALLERGY ALERT TEST IS OK OR NOT?
If during coloring clients experience any COLOR? The color brand, developer and the exact shade If there is any doubt about the result of the
stinging or burning and/or rash, rinse No, if the client have a known hair dye allergy, chosen during consultation that will be applied. test, or if the client shows a reaction to the
immediately and discontinue use as this may don’t use hair colorants. On an individual basis, If using two different colors, both should test, then they should go to their doctor and no
be an indication of more serious reaction. each consumer that might have an allergy should be tested. colorant should be applied.
DO NOT color their hair again and advise the consult with their dermatologist to identify if
client to consult a doctor or seek medical they can tolerate a hair colorant containing ME+. WHY DOES MY CLIENT’S SKIN TATTOO MAKE A WHAT INFORMATION NEEDS TO BE INCLUDED
advice. If symptoms of a rapidly spreading However, we need to keep in mind that if a client DIFFERENCE? ON THE CLIENT RECORD CARD?
skin rash, dizziness or faintness, shortness has ever experienced an allergic reaction to any Certain substances found in some skin We would suggest that you include:
of breath and/or swelling to eyes/face are hair colorant ingredient, such as pTD or pPD, they permanent or temporary tattoos especially ȩȩ Condition of the scalp and hair.
showing, rinse immediately and have client should not color as they cannot exclude being black henna tattoos may themselves cause an
ȩȩ Date of skin test.
seek immediate medical attention and contact allergic to ME+. allergic reaction. This puts your client at an
the manufacturer. If after coloring or on the increased risk of a reaction when they have a ȩȩ Result of skin test.
following days the client experiences problems WHAT DO I DO IF MY CLIENT HAS A REACTION TO hair color after their tattoo. It is important to
ȩȩ Color services with dates and details
such as skin or scalp itching, skin or scalp THE ALLERGY ALERT TEST? check that it is safe to proceed by carrying out
(including brand, shade, developer).
rash, swelling to eyes/face, blistering and/ Do not apply the color and advise them to see an Allergy Alert Test prior to the color service.
or skin or scalp weeping have client seek their doctor. ȩȩ In addition, you do need to keep a record
immediate medical attention and contact the MY CLIENT WANTS THEIR HAIR LIGHTENED of the outcome of the consultation for
manufacturer. WHY DO I HAVE TO WAIT FOR 48 HOURS? (BLEACHED). DO I NEED TO DO THE ALLERGY every client and every color visit.
It takes up to 48 hours for the body to develop ALERT TEST?
an immune system response, if you cut corners No, an allergy alert test is not required for
SHOULD I KEEP A RECORD OF EACH ALLERGY
you risk missing a skin reaction. Wella lightening products including Blondor.
ALERT TEST?
Please check the safety requirements in
We strongly advise you to do this (subject
MY CLIENT HAS PREVIOUSLY REACTED TO THE your country.
to local laws for the privacy protection of
ALLERGY ALERT TEST, WHAT ADVICE DO I GIVE?
personal computer records). You need to keep
They must not use any hair color product MY CLIENT HAS REACTED AFTER THIS COLOR
records to show your duty of care.
(including one from another manufacturer). You APPLICATION, WHAT ADVICE DO I GIVE?
should advise them to go to their doctor. If the reaction is immediate, and the color
WHERE CAN I FIND FURTHER INFORMATION?
is still on head, the hair should be rinsed
Insert advisory helpline and website.
WHY SHOULD I CARRY OUT AN ALLERGY ALERT immediately and use of the product should be
TEST ON MY REGULAR CLIENTS ONCE A YEAR discontinued. If there is any rash, dizziness,
(EVEN WHEN THEY HAVE BEEN VISITING MY faintness, shortness of breath or swelling,
SALON REGULARLY FOR COLOR)?
immediate medical attention should be sought.
Allergies may develop over time, which is why
The hair should not be colored again before the
it is important that you keep a full history of
client consults a doctor. If the reaction occurs
previous color applications and that you check
after coloring, immediate medical attention
for allergies to hair colorants at least once a year.
should be sought.

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 the facts
ABOUT SCALP
DISCOMFORT
New Koleston Perfect, like the entire
Wella Professionals color portfolio has
been tested to ensure scalp comfort.
Clients may experience a small level
of scalp discomfort like tingling or
itching with permanent hair colors. It’s
mainly caused by the peroxide in the
color creams, and the physiological
conditions of the clients scalp. This is
the case for a small percentage of all
permanent color services.
Additionally, 1% of consumers are
estimated to be allergic to PPD/PTD
hair dyes – skin discomfort and skin
burning/redness can be a signal of an
allergic reaction.
New Koleston Perfect has been
proven to have the same great scalp
comfort attributes, like our existing
permanent color portfolio, when mixed
properly with the new Welloxon Perfect
according to usage instructions.

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 QUESTIONS
AND ANSWERS
SCALP
DISCOMFORT
WHY DO SOME CLIENTS EXPERIENCE SCALP
DISCOMFORT DURING OR AFTER A HAIR
COLOR SERVICE?
A small percentage of all color clients might
experience scalp scalp discomfort due to the
peroxide on the scalp and the physiological
conditions of the clients scalp. This accounts
for a small percentage of all applications on
all hair colors, and is not unique to Koleston
Perfect or Wella Professionals but a reality
in all oxidative colors requiring peroxide.

MY CLIENT HAS EXPERIENCED SCALP

DISCOMFORT IN THE PAST CAN I STILL
APPLY NEW KOLESTON PERFECT FOR THE
NEXT COLOR SERVICE?
If an allergic reaction can be excluded, yes.
Please do an allergy alert test before the
next service and follow the checklist below.

I HAVE DONE AN AAT AND NO ALLERGIC REACTION

SHOWED, BUT ONCE APPLIED THE COLOR SYMPTOMS
OF DISCOMFORT (BURNING, ITCHING) OCCURRED. CAN I
CONTINUE USING COLOR AFTER A NEGATIVE AAT?
Most likely in this case an irritant reaction occurred. If an
allergic reaction can be excluded, a further application
can be recommended. If in doubt, ask the client to seek
medical advice before a next color application.

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 TIPS TO MINIMIZE
SCALP DISCOMFORT

1. Do not shampoo the hair on the same day of the color 5. Correctly mix the color mass with the peroxide. Even with the new easier-
application. The natural sebum builds a protective layer for to-mix consistency of Koleston Perfect, it’s important to mix thoroughly to
the scalp. ensure that no pockets of peroxide are left in the color mass.
2. Before applying color, ensure the scalp is intact. 6. Correct developer usage. It’s important to use new Welloxon Perfect and
3. Lower your Welloxon Perfect if necessary. This might reduce particularly important to not use a generic developer
discomfort on sensitive clients ( e.g. 6% down to 4%) 7. When removing the color, emulsify properly with water, rinse until water
4. Do not use heat, like Climazon. is clear, shampoo and neutralize with Invigo Post Color Treatment, ensure
to apply on scalp as well as on hair. Leave for 5 min. Rinse well.

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 allergy
alert TEST ALLERGY ALERT TEST
QUESTIONNAIRE

Although the risk of developing a new allergy is reduced, the danger of an allergic IF THE CLIENT ANSWERS ‘NO’ TO ALL THE QUESTIONS, YOU CAN
reaction — even a severe one — still exists. That’s why you should always perform PROCEED WITH THE COLOR SERVICE ON THIS OCCASION WITHOUT
an allergy alert test 48 hours before any color service. DOING AN ALLERGY ALERT TEST. COMPLETE THE CLIENT RECORD
CARD CONFIRMING ALL THE COLOR SERVICE DETAILS.

ALLERGY ALERT TEST QUESTIONS

1. Has your client ever had an allergic reaction to any hair

1 2 3 4
colorant product?
IF ANSWERED WITH YES
2. Has your client ever had an allergic reaction to any type of skin TO ANY QUESTION – STOP
1 48 tattoo, including henna or to permanent make-up?
HOURS
cm2 Explain to your client that you
3. Does your client have a sensitive, itchy or damaged scalp cannot color the hair unless they
(e.g. suffer from eczema or psoriasis of the scalp)? first get advice from their doctor.

4.  Is your client currently taking any medication to treat allergies?

STEP 1 STEP 2 STEP 3 STEP 4
Mix 5g of the color Apply the color on to Leave the color Ask the client to either
you decided on during 1cm2 directly below the uncovered for 45 come back to the salon
ALLERGY ALERT TEST QUESTIONS
consultation with 5g crook of the elbow. minutes. Then rinse the after 48h or call you to IF ANSWERED WITH YES
developer. area with lukewarm inform you of the result. TO ANY QUESTION – WARNING
5. Is this a new color client for your salon or are you using a
water and pat dry with
different brand/shade than normal?
a clean towel. Carry out an allergy alert test.
6. Has it been more than 6 months since your client last had a
color in your salon?
Ask your client to leave the test area undisturbed for 48 hours. If there are any
7. Is it more than 12 months since your client’s last allergy
signs of redness, burning or itching the color product must not be applied. The
alert test?
client must seek medical advice before coloring her hair again. If your client has
ever experienced an allergic reaction to hair colorants you should not color.
8. Has your client had any type of skin tattoo, including henna or
permanent make-up, since their last color service?

9. Has your client had an allergic reaction to any products since

their last color service?

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