F.

Çeken, Comparison of the Properties of Knitted

Fabrics Produced by Conventional
F. Göktepe*

and Compact Ring-Spun Yarns

University of Dokuz Eylul,
Textile Engineering Department
İzmir, Turkey

*University of Suleyman Demirel,

Textile Engineering Department Abstract
Isparta, Turkey The new compact yarn spinning system appears to eliminate the spinning triangle problem
in the conventional ring spinning process, and is claimed to bring many advantages of yarn
quality. However, the benefits of this new concept are still to be investigated extensively. In
this research work, we produced plain knitted fabrics by using conventional ring-spun and
ring-compact yarns. These fabrics were knitted and dyed under identical conditions. We
then tested these fabrics for their appearance after different washing cycles, their pilling
behaviour, their colour differences and bursting strengths. The change in the surface of the
fabrics after washing in different cycles shows that fabrics of compact yarns maintain their
appearance, while others seriously deteriorate. Pilling test results show that the pilling
tendency of fabrics of compact ring yarns is much better compared to those of conventional
yarns, as expected. On the other hand, test results regarding colour difference indicate that
there are significant differences, as the fabrics of compact ring yarns have darker shades.
Finally, fabrics of compact ring yarn have generally higher bursting strength, but the diffe-
rences become less significant as the loop lengths increase in the fabrics.

Key words: ring-spun yarn, compact ring-spun yarn, conventional ring-spun yarn, knitted
fabrics, fabric properties.

the fibre bundles before they leave the processes, as well as fabric performances
drafting system in the conventional such as pilling, surface appearance etc.
ring spinning system. This should offer [1-5, 12-16]. These works showed that
a significant advantage for ring spin- compact yarns have a much less hairy
ning when competing with its rivals, as yarn surface, and they do not tend to
it claims to offer many advantages in entangle in weaving as expected. It has
terms of yarn structure (i.e. yarn hairi- also been reported that compact yarns
ness, appearance, strength etc.), leading perform better in terms of strength, ir-
to a much better idealised yarn structure regularity and breaking extension. In
[3,4]. However, the production costs of terms of the cost benefit of such systems,
this system were significant at this early it is possible to work with a much smaller
stage of the development, but recent amount of twist with compact yarns to
claims indicate that these costs can be obtain the same strength level of con-
significantly reduced [6]. ventional ring-spun yarns [15,17]. More
recently, Artzt has indicated that compact
As a result of improvements in yarn spinning system offers new perspectives
structure, various compact spinning for using these systems for spinning both
designs by different textile machinery man-made fibres as well as woollen fi-
manufacturers are on the market. For bres [13].
instance, in Air-Com-Tex 700 by Zinser,
a perforated apron is added to the clas- Interestingly, Ethridge, Hequet and Krifa
sical drafting system of a ring machine reported that there are no significant dif-
[7], while ComforSpin by Rieter uses a ferences in the irregularities of the yarns
n Introduction perforated drum to condense fibres in the produced on the Suessen Fiomax 1000
drafting region [8,9]. On the other hand, compared to the conventional ring-spun
It is well known that one of the weakest
the EliTe system from Suessen differs yarns [14]. However, more recently
points of the ring spinning system is the Cheng and Yu indicated that the compact
significantly from both systems [10,11].
spinning triangle. For this reason, fol- yarns produced on Rieter K44 had much
lowing previous research works which higher irregularity [12]. In the same
The number of independent research
focused on this particular problem, a work, it is also reported that Rieter’s
works about the pros and cons of com-
new approach known as compact ring compact spinning system is only suitable
pact systems is small, since many of the
spinning was developed by ITV of Ger- for producing finer yarns (i.e. beyond Ne
available publications come from the ma-
many. First exhibited at ITMA 1995, this 60) using longer staple cottons, indicat-
chinery manufacturers themselves.
system is regarded as being entirely new, ing that it has some limitations in terms
although it still has the classical spinning The works reported so far mainly deal of yarn count and quality. Similarly, Ox-
components of ring spinning [1,2]. with the comparison of compact and con- enham indicates that the compact system
ventional ring-spun yarn properties (e.g. has not been well received in the USA,
This new concept is aimed at diminish- hairiness, strength, irregularity etc.), the although it is claimed to have made some
ing the spinning triangle by condensing performance of the yarns in downstream significant inroads in Europe [18].

FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe January / March 2005, Vol. 13, No. 1 (49) 47
Table 1. Properties of the fibre blend used in yarn production. COM4, were spun on a Rieter K44.
Table 1 shows the properties of the fibre
Parameter Conventional ring spun yarns COM4 yarns blend used in yarn production. As the
data in the table show, both yarns have
%2.5 SL 29.06 29.43
similar raw material properties, while
Micronaire 4.32 4.66
Unf. ratio 82.8 84.08
the cotton of the COM4 yarn appears
Tenacity, g/tex 31.20 29.16
stronger, cleaner and has fewer neps.
Elongation of break, % 7.5 6.12
+b 10.09 8.43
Yarn particulars
Rd 76.56 77.6 In this research work, single yarns of
Colour grade 31-3 31-3 carded ring and carded compact yarns of
SFC 23.3 18.3 20 tex were produced. Table 2 gives the
Maturity ratio 0.89 0.90 details of yarn properties. The data in the
Nep, cnt/g 239 75 table indicates that the COM4 yarns show
Dust, cnt/g 916 688 less irregularity, higher strength, much
fewer thin and thick places and neps.

Table 2. Yarn properties. Knitted fabric production

Yarn features Parameters Conventional ring spun yarn COM4 yarn
We produced plain knitted fabrics on a
Monarch-Vanguard Supreme circular
mean 29.66 29.00 knitting machine with a gauge of 28,
Count, Ne
CV% 1.00 1.13
diameter of 24 inches and 72 systems.
mean 910.35 866.9
The production was arranged so that the
Twist, tpm CV% 4.6 5.19
fabrics could have three different levels
TM 40.7 38.8
of loop lengths (i.e. short, medium and
mean 319.6 398.17
Strength, g long loop lengths). Then, the average
CV% 9.29 8.91
loop lengths were measured by taking
U 12.54 9.45
Evenness the yarns from 100 loops in the same
CVm 15.97 16.12
course for each type of fabric. We took
thin places (-50%) 5 0
the measurement after hanging a 10 g
Imperfection thick places (+50%) 285 7.5
weight on the yarn samples, as Smirfitt
neps (+200) 387.5 10.0
earlier indicated that a 10 g weight is
good enough to open yarn crimps [19].
On the other hand, we carried out these
measurements only for grey state fabrics,
since Postle and Kurbak reported that
any change in the loop length after wet
A)
relaxation processing, which is around
2%, could be ignored [20,21]. The results
of this investigation are given in Table 3.

Fabric dyeing and finishing

We processed all the grey fabrics of com-
pact and conventional ring-spun yarns in
B) the same baths, to eliminate any varia-
tions during these processes. The grey
fabrics were first scoured with hydrogen
peroxide. The bath ratio was 1/15. The
0) 1) 3) 5)
scouring conditions were as follows:
§ anti-creasing agent 0.3 g/l
§ hydrogen peroxide 1.5 g/l
Figure 1. Appearance of knitted fabrics manufactured from A - ring spun yarn, B - compact § caustic soda 2.5 g/l
ring spun yarn; before and after 1, 3, and 5 washings; magnification 250×.
§ wetter 1 g/l
§ stabiliser 0.5 g/l
Therefore, we aimed to compare the
n Experimental
properties of knitted fabrics produced The following scouring, hot washing,
by conventional carded ring-spun yarns Fibre particulars acetic-acid processing and rinsing proc-
and carded compact ring-spun yarns in The carded ring-spun yarns consisted of esses were carried out in succession.
this work, in order to obtain a deeper idea a fibre blend of 70% Greek and 30% Ira- Then, all the fabrics were dyed into blue
and better understanding about the main nian cottons, while the carded compact with direct dyes in a jet-dyeing machine.
advantages of compact spinning systems ring yarns were produced by Aegean The dye-bath consisted of the following
in terms of yarn and fabric performance. cottons. The compact yarns, known as elements:

48 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe January / March 2005, Vol. 13, No. 1 (49)
 8.5
4.5
8.0 Ring (compact) spun yarn

Bursting strength, kg/cm2

4.0 Ring (conventional) spun yarn
7.5
3.5 Ring (compact) spun yarn
Pilling grade

7.0
Ring (conventional) spun yarn
3.0
6.5
2.5
6.0
2.0
5.5
1.5
5.0
0.23 0.24 0.25 0.26 0.27 0.28 0.29 0.23 0.24 0.25 0.26 0.27 0.28 0.29
Loop yarn length, cm Loop yarn length, cm

Figure 2. Pilling test results. Figure 4. Bursting strength test results.

§ anti-creasing agent 0.3 g/l

§ sequestering agent 0.5 g/l A) B)
§ liquid salt 160 ml/l
§ liquid soda 65 ml/l
§ dye-stuff 0.042%

During dyeing, we processed the fabrics

at 40°C at the beginning, and increased
to 60°C for 60 minutes. Following this,
cold rinsing with 0.5 g/l acetic acid and
3% softener respectively was applied.
Afterwards, the tube slitting, drying and
sanforising processes were carried out.

With the fabrics in a finished state, we

first compared their appearances after
Figure 3. Fabric appearance after pilling test; A - manufactured from ring spun yarn,
different cycles (i.e. 1, 3, and 5 washing) B - manufactured from compact ring spun yarn; magnification 110×.
in a Wascator FOM 71 to see the differ-
ences in the fabrics’ surfaces. The wash-
ously deteriorated; the surface of fabrics ing behaviour of all fabric types worsen
ing conditions were chosen according to
of the compact yarn, however, seem as the loop lengths of the fabrics are
standard EN ISO 6330 at 40±3°C. The
to maintain its original state. A similar increased, as expected. However, the
surfaces were closely examined under
trend is followed after 3 and 5 washings. fabrics consisting of compact yarns
an Olympus SZ-CTV Stereo microscope.
Although there is deformation on the fab- exhibit much better pilling perform-
Later, the fabrics were tested for their
ance compared to the fabrics produced
pilling performance. The pilling tests rics of the compact yarns, it is to a much
by conventional ring-spun yarns. A
were carried out on a Martindale abra- lesser extent compared to the fabrics of similar performance in terms of pilling
sion and pilling tester according to stand- the ring-spun yarns. was also reported by a compact yarn
ard ASTM-D 4970-02. The fabrics were
spinning machine manufacturer, as in-
also tested for their bursting strength and Pilling behaviour
dicated above. The fabric’s appearance
colour differences. We used a Mullen- The pilling test results are shown in after pilling is also given in Figure 3,
type tester, which applies the hydraulic Figure 2. The results indicate that pill-
test method, for the bursting strength,
and a Minolta 3600-D model spectropho-
Table 3. The lengths of 100 loops in the same course and average loop lengths (*average
tometer for colour tests. loop length).

n Test Results and Discussion Yarn features Parameters

Fabric of conventional
Fabric of COM4 yarn
ring spun yarn
Change in the fabric appearance after mean length of 100 loops 22.99 24.31
washing cycles Short loop length CV% 0.63 2.01
The surface appearances of the fabrics L, cm* 0.230 0.243
before washing and after 1, 3 and 5 wash- mean length of 100 loops 26.16 25.03
ing cycles are shown in Figure 1. When Medium loop length CV% 1.28 1.00
the surfaces are examined, the fabrics L, cm* 0.262 0.250
of conventional yarn have a very hairy mean length of 100 loops 28.24 27.43
surface, as expected, and even after only Long loop length CV% 0.63 0.80
1 washing, the surface becomes seri- L, cm* 0.282 0.274

FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe January / March 2005, Vol. 13, No. 1 (49) 49
to give a better idea of how the hairs on the loop length increases, so the differ- cover factor is also important for
the fabric’s surface contribute to pilling. ences between two types of fabrics is not bursting strength, as is yarn strength.
very significant as the loop lengths in the
Comparison of colour fabrics increase. This result indicates that
the bursting strength of fabrics is mainly
We also wanted to see if there was any Acknowledgement
colour difference between the knitted affected by yarn strength, but that fabric
cover factor is also an important factor. The authors would like to thank the Turkish
fabrics of these two types of yarns, so textile companies Anteks, Sunteks and Eko-
we tested the samples on a spectropho- ten for permitting us to use their production
tometer under daylight conditions (D65). n Conclusions and Discussions and testing facilities.
We took a dyed fabric sample consisting § Ring compact-spun yarns are claimed
of conventional ring-spun yarn of short to offer many advantages over con- References
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50 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe January / March 2005, Vol. 13, No. 1 (49)