Early fashion influencers or just ordinary women?

avari i slaveni — ZBOrniK raDOva s MeĐUnarODnOG ZnansTvenOG sKUPa avars anD slavs — PrOCeeDinGs OF THe inTernaTiOnal sCienTiFiC COnFerenCe Musei Archaeologici Zagrabiensis Collectanea archaeologica svezak 5 volume 5 iMPressUM Collectanea Archaeologica Musei Archaeologici Zagrabiensis svezak 5 volume 5 Avari i Slaveni Dvije strane pojasnog jezičca — Avari na sjeveru i jugu kaganata Avars and Slavs Two Sides of a Belt Strap End — Avars on the North and South of the Khaganate Zbornik radova s međunarodnog znanstvenog skupa održanog u Vinkovcima 2020. godine Proceedings of the international scientific conference held in Vinkovci 2020 nakladnik publisher Arheološki muzej u Zagrebu Archaeological Museum in Zagreb Gradski muzej Vinkovci Municipal Museum Vinkovci za nakladnika for the publisher Sanjin Mihelić Arheološki muzej u Zagrebu Archaeological Museum in Zagreb Hrvoje Vulić Gradski muzej Vinkovci Municipal Museum Vinkovci urednici editors Anita Rapan Papeša Gradski muzej Vinkovci Municipal Museum Vinkovci Anita Dugonjić Arheološki muzej u Zagrebu Archaeological Museum in Zagreb tehnička urednica copy-editing Martina Korić Tiskanje Zbornika radova financijski je pomogao Arheološki muzej u Zagrebu, Gradski muzej Vinkovci i Ministarstvo znanosti i obrazovanja. This Volume is financed by the Archaeological Museum in Zagreb, the Municipal Museum of Vinkovci, and the Ministry of Science and Education of the Republic of Croatia. recenzenti reviewers Ana Azinović Bebek Hrvoje Gračanin lektura proof reading Barbara Smith Demo Ranko Bugarski (356–372) oblikovanJe i priprema za tisak design & dtp Sensus Design Factory atelier ANII tisak printed by Tiskara Zelina naklada print run isbn 978-953-8143-58-8 cip zapis je dostupan u računalnome katalogu Nacionalne i sveučilišne knjižnice u Zagrebu pod brojem 001155023. ← naslOvniCa: Pojasni jezičac, Nuštar-Dvorac, grob 34 FrOnT COver: Belt Strap End, Nuštar-Dvorac, grave 34 ← UnUTarnJe KOriCe: Okov falere u obliku veprove glave, Sisak-Kupa Fibula, Zagreb-Stenjevec insiDe COver: Fitting for a phalera in the shape of a boar’s head, Sisak-Kupa Fibula, Zagreb-Stenjevec 300 urednici/editors 2022.   09 Foreword 12 Falko Daim The Beauty of Theoretical Concepts and the Future of the Avars 26 Anita Dugonjić Dinko Tresić Pavičić Mario Novak The Early Medieval Cemetery in Jagodnjak (Croatian Baranja) – First Results of the Archaeological Excavations and Anthropological Analysis 62 Tajana Sekelj Ivančan Ivan Valent Similarities and Differences between 7th and 8th Century Pottery as Shown by Archaeological Sites in the Vicinity of Hlebine 76 Zsófia Básti Bence Gulyás Tamás Czuppon New Methods in the Examination of Avar Period Cemeteries. GIS-Based and Statistical Analysis of the Late Avar Period Site of Pitvaros-Víztározó 88 Anita Rapan Papeša Early Fashion Influencers or just Ordinary Women? 106 Boglárka Mészáros Péter Langó The Budapest-Népfürdő Street Find: The Cultural Background of Earrings with a Flat Triangular Granulation Ornament 130 Miklós Takács Settlement Archaeology of the Avar Age in the Southern Parts of the Carpathian Basin – Similarities and Differences 150 Alpár Dobos Shifting Identities on the Periphery of the Avar Khaganate Settlement Pattern and Social Transformations in the Transylvanian Basin during the Avar Period 180 Naďa Profantová Avar Type Finds in Bohemia and the Traces of Their Local Production 210 Jan Hasil Naďa Profantová Kateřina Levá Metal Artefacts as a Key to the Landscape and Society of Pre-state Bohemia 224 Hana Chorvátová Transitions in Jewellery North of the Danube after the Extinction of the Avar Khaganate   240 Florin Mărginean Mihály Huba K. Hőgyes Sarah Peter Erwin Gáll “The Outskirts of the Khagans” An Overview of the Avar Age Burial Sites near Pecica 256 Jozef Zábojník Grave Structures at the Cemetery from the Avar Khaganate Period in Obid (Slovakia) 266 Pia Šmalcelj Novaković In the North and South of the Khaganate – From Komarno to Croatia: A Scene from Late Antiquity on a Belt Set from Privlaka 282 Orsolya Heinrich-Tamáska Status Symbols or Prestige Goods? Interpreting the Belts with Pseudo-Buckles in Avaria 298 Christoph Lobinger About Boars and Emperors – Two Outstanding Belt Motifs and Their Significance in the Late Avar Power Structures 314 József Szentpéteri The Knights of the Avar Period Human-horse burials with metal-inlaid iron phalerae in the Carpathian Basin 344 Călin Cosma Avar Artifacts in Slavic Barrow Cremation Cemeteries From Transylvania and Northwestern Romania 356 Ivan Bugarski Numismatic and Archaeological Evidence of Supra-Regional Trade in the Southern Parts of the Late Avar State 374 Maja Petrinec Avar Finds on the Eastern Coast of the Adriatic ColleCtanea arChaeologiCa 8 05 avari i slaveni — ZBOrniK raDOva s MeĐUnarODnOG ZnansTvenOG sKUPa avars anD slavs — PrOCeeDinGs OF THe inTernaTiOnal sCienTiFiC COnFerenCe foreword The international scientific conference „Dvije strane pojasnog jezičca – Avari na sjeveru i jugu kaganata“ / “Two Sides of a Belt Strap End – Avars on the North and South of the Khaganate” was unique in many ways. It was planned as a closing event of the “Avars and Slavs” project, a project that included two exhibitions, several public lectures and workshops, led by the Archaeological Museum in Zagreb in partnership with the Municipal Museum of Vinkovci. The project was prepared for more than two years and included the Slovak exhibition “Avars and Slavs North of the Danube” and the Croatian exhibition “Avars and Slavs South of the Drava River” with a comprehensive bilingual (Croatian-English) catalogue. The international exhibition project "Avars and Slavs" received the annual award of the Croatian Museum Association in 2020 in the category for inter-museum cooperation. But, just as the Avars came and changed the picture of Europe after their arrival, a few weeks after the conference that was held in Vinkovci, the global pandemic of Covid-19 changed our lives as well. So, this conference was among the last, if not perhaps even the very last big conference held in person and not online or in the now very popular – hybrid form. Additionally, a few weeks after that, a devastating earthquake shook Zagreb and its surroundings, and critically damaged, among others, the building of the Archaeological Museum. All of the above reasons have slowed us down during the preparation and completion of these Proceedings that we are now proudly presenting. The last day of the conference (the 8th of February), the participants took a field trip to Zagreb, where we participated in a programme of the exhibition closure that was a start of a new project that never had the opportunity to be fully realized – The EU Archaeology Festival – an event meant to present the European archaeological heritage in the year when Croatia was presiding over the EU. We would like to thank our colleagues from our home institutions who helped us in the organisation of the project, as well as our directors, who showed full understanding every step of the way. A special thank you goes to the members of the scientific and organisation committee of the conference, and the reviewers, but foremost we would like to thank our colleagues, who have patiently waited for their works to be published. This volume is financed by the Archaeological Museum in Zagreb, the Municipal Museum of Vinkovci, and the Ministry of Science and Education of the Republic of Croatia, for which we are deeply grateful. Anita Rapan Papeša and Anita Dugonjić Vinkovci – Zagreb, summer 2022 This volume rounds up the contributions from the international conference that took place in Vinkovci, Croatia from February 6th to 7th 2020. The main theme of the conference was divided into six sessions, presenting new finds, cultural interaction, funerary rites, belt sets, Slavs, and the post-Avar period. Themes were discussed by some forty colleagues from ten European countries, who answered the call for papers, submitted an abstract published in the book of abstracts, and presented their results at the conference. The conference, as noted in the title, showed us that the huge area occupied by the Avars had many similarities, but also specific, local versions, just like one of the most recognisable items from the period, the two sides of a belt strap end. We are extremely pleased to present twenty submitted papers from this conference. Due to various reasons, some colleagues were not able to provide their papers, as some had to publish them elsewhere. The book follows the conference structure, so we start with a theoretical introduction, followed by case studies from different parts of the Khaganate or areas influenced by the Avars. 9 ColleCtanea arChaeologiCa 10 05 avari i slaveni — ZBOrniK raDOva s MeĐUnarODnOG ZnansTvenOG sKUPa avars anD slavs — PrOCeeDinGs OF THe inTernaTiOnal sCienTiFiC COnFerenCe vinkovci 2020 11 camaz 05 EARLY FASHION INFLUENCERS OR JUST ORDINARY WOMEN? Anita Rapan Papeša Municipal Museum Vinkovci Trg bana Josipa Šokčevića 16 HR-32100 Vinkovci Croatia [email protected] Late Avar period cemeteries in Croatia, although very important, have not been properly published. One of the recently excavated cemeteries located in Nuštar, Eastern Croatia, yielded several circular attire brooches/clasps, also known as zagraffes. Beside these, only one more is known from the territory of Croatia, found in Draž (Baranja) and kept in the Hungarian National Museum. Female graves tend to be left in the shadow of elite warrior’s graves, although those also provide valuable data. This paper will examine the question of grave assemblages in graves with clothing clasps in contexts of gender and age, and try to explain the symbolic level of the role of these females in society. Key words: Clothing clasps/agraffes, Nuštar, Draž, Late Avar Period, female graves, elites 88 earlY FasHiOn inFlUenCers Or JUsT OrDinarY WOMen? aniTa raPan PaPeša In today’s terms fashion influencers are persons who, mostly through social media, have the capacity to inspire and guide others, set trends, and generate interest in something. A relatively uncommon find in Late Avar period female graves, clothing clasps or agraffes, could be a reflection of such a movement. In archaeological terms, we can speak about gender archaeology and the archaeology of death. Gender archaeology deals with methods that study material remains and interprets them as representing a recognizable social status and identifying men and women. On the other hand, the archaeology of death provides data about society, culture, and ethnic identity. In this paper we shall present finds of clothing clasps/agraffes from the territory of Croatia, with emphasis on the context of graves. In this way, we hope to determine whether the wearers were influencers or just ordinary members of the society. Similar conclusions have already been presented; data from 1991 show that only 0.51% of graves had clothing clasps in them,1 and even with the increased number of total discovered Avar period graves to the present, the figures are not much higher. Clothing clasps were obviously not as popular as some other forms of jewellery and the question arises as to why? Were these items too expensive? Did they require special garments? Could they be connected to a certain group? We hope to answer some of these questions in this paper. so that each grave was emptied, the bones and finds taken out, and then all the excavated soil was put back into the grave. In this way 7 graves were destroyed. The construction works were stopped and archaeological excavation was carried out. During the excavation, a total of 201 graves were recorded. In three cases they turned out to not be graves, and two graves were not excavated at all because for the most part they entered the northern profile, so we excavated a total of 196 graves.6 Given the present state of research, we know of more than 60 Late Avar period sites in continental Croatia (Map 1). However, the finds of clothing clasps/agraffes originate from only two sites, both being cemeteries. On the territory of Croatia, these objects were found in 8 graves and at two sites (Tab. 1), Draž (no. 57 on the map) and Nuštar (no. 53 on the map). Both sites are in eastern Croatia, and the finds from Nuštar represent the southernmost finds of clothing clasps in the territory of the Avar Khaganate. The temporal distance between the excavations of these sites is 100 years. The site of the “Vineyard of I. Dömötör” is situated in the village of Draž in the Croatian Baranya. Chance finds (1910) from a destroyed, probably female grave are kept in the Hungarian National Museum;2 they were sold by H. Bátor and first published by N. Fettich in 1929.3 Afterwards, in 1943, J. Dombay conducted investigations at the site and allegedly found more graves with typical Late Avar assemblages.4 Since then no other excavation has been conducted at the site. In fact, the exact location of the site is not known. The site of Dvorac/(Mansion) is situated in the village of Nuštar north of Vinkovci. The site was partly investigated in 2011 through rescue excavation during construction of a football field.5 Prior to construction work, the site was unknown. In early January 2011, the Municipal Museum in Vinkovci was alerted by email about some graves that had been excavated in the village of Nuštar. The “excavation” was performed by a local mortician Catalogue of graves with clothing clasps/agraffes: 1. Draž Short description of the grave: destroyed female grave. Finds: a pair of clothing clasps, a bronze bracelet, and a necklace made of beads. Description of the clasps: A pair of a round clothing clasps (Fig. 1), made of gilded silver, with a large central cell surrounded with 8 smaller ones forming a rosette-like form with a center and petals. The inlay made of glass has been preserved in only one central cell, made of translucent yellow glass. The rim is made of filigree wire. The back side is flat, with traces of a fastening mechanism. The diameter is about 26 mm. 2. Nuštar, grave 9 Brief description of the grave: A rectangular grave pit with hollows under the head and feet (2.57 m x 0.73 m x 0.87 m), orientation W – E. Skeleton in extended supine position, arms stretched next to the body, extremely badly preserved. Anthropological determination: probably female (20 – 35 years old). Finds: On the knees there is a vessel, bronze finger-rings on each hand and iron bracelets on the left and right arm; under the chin 2 clothing clasps. Clasp PN 87 has preserved textile;7 it was situated upside down in the grave. Description of clasps: A pair of clothing clasps (Fig. 2) was found between the left clavicle and the mandible, upside down. The clothing clasps are round, made of bronze, with a large central cell surrounded with 8 smaller ones forming a flower-like form with petals and center. The inlay made of glass in the central cells is white and yellow translucent, while the inlays in the petals are alternating colorless and green on one half, and colorless translucent on the other. The rim is made of filigree wire. The back side is flat, with traces of a fastening mechanism in the form of a hook. The diameters are about 26 and 29 mm. 3. Nuštar, grave 108 Brief description of the grave: A rectangular grave pit with hollows under the head and feet (1.48 m x 0.69 m x 0.87 m), orientation W – E. Skeleton – no bones in situ. Anthropological determination: male (35 – 50 years old). Finds: In the hollow by the feet is a vessel; other finds came from the grave fill: beads from a necklace, a bronze earring, a clothing clasp, and an animal bone. 1 Kürti, Wicker 1991, 20. 6 Rapan Papeša 2012b, 65–68. 2 I would like to thank my colleague G. Szenthe for providing me information about and photographs of the find. 7 Grömer, Rapan Papeša 2015, 59. 3 Fettich 1929, 77. 4 Szentpéteri (ed.) 2002, 118–119. 5 Rapan Papeša 2012a, 4. 89 avari i slaveni — avars and slavs camaz 05 Description of the clasps: A clothing clasp (Fig. 3) was found in the grave fill. The clothing clasp is round, made of bronze, with a large central cell surrounded with 7 smaller ones forming a flower-like form with petals and center. The inlay made of glass in the central cell is colorless and translucent, and the inlays in the petals are colorless translucent. The rim is made of filigree wire. The back side is flat. The diameter is about 27 mm. ing clasps are round, made of bronze, with a large central cell surrounded with eight smaller ones forming a flower-like form with petals and center. The inlay made of glass in central cells is colorless and translucent, and the inlays in the petals are colorless translucent. The rim is made of filigree wire. The back side is flat, with traces of a fastening mechanism in the form of a hook and eye. The diameter is about 27 and 27 mm. 4. Nuštar, grave 112 Brief description of the grave: Trapezoidal grave pit with hollows under head and feet (2.50 m x 0.82 m x 0.92 m), orientation W – E. Skeleton in extended supine position, extremely badly preserved. Anthropological determination: sex undeterminable (20 – 35 years old). Finds: by the right leg there is a vessel, left from the chin a pair of clothing clasps, on the right a silver earring and beads from a necklace. Description of the clasps: A pair of clothing clasps (Fig. 4) was found between the left clavicle and mandible, upside down. The clothing clasps are round, made of bronze, with a large central cell surrounded with 8 smaller ones forming a flower-like form with petals and center. The inlay made of glass in the central cells is colorless and the inlays in the petals are translucent. The rim is made of filigree wire. The back side is flat, with traces of a fastening mechanism in form of a hook and eye. The diameter is about 26 and 29 mm. 7. Nuštar, grave 167B Brief description of the grave: Double-burial; Trapezoidal grave pit with hollows under head and feet and three vertical beams (2.10 m x 1.57 m x 0.65 m), orientation W – E. Skeleton in extended supine position, arms stretched next to the body, extremely badly preserved. Anthropological determination: child (9 – 12 years old). Finds: under the chin clothing clasps, beads of a necklace around the neck, a bronze earring on the left side of the skull. Description of the clasps: A pair of clothing clasps (Fig. 7) was found under the right maxilla, one upside down, the other upright. The clothing clasps are round, made of bronze, with a large central cell surrounded with 6 smaller ones forming a flower-like form with petals and center. The inlay made of glass in central cells is colorless translucent, and inlays in petals are alternating colorless and green on one half. The rim is made of filigree wire. The back side is flat, with traces of fastening mechanism in form of a hook. The diameter is about 26 an 29 mm. 5. Nuštar, grave 115 Brief description of the grave: Rectangular grave pit with hollows under head and feet, also narrowed towards the bottom (2.20 m x 0.92 m x 0.70 m), orientation W – E. Skeleton extremely badly preserved. Anthropological determination: adult. Finds: At the chin position clothing clasps, while other finds originate from grave fill: beads from a necklace, an iron knife, a lead spindle-whorl, and vessel shards. Description of the clasps: A pair of clothing clasps (Fig. 5) was found in the neck area, upside down. The clothing clasps are round, made of bronze, with a large central cell surrounded with 8 smaller ones forming a flower-like form with petals and center. The inlay made of glass in central cells is colorless and translucent, and the inlays in the petals are translucent (some missing). The rim is made of filigree wire. The back side is flat. The diameter is about 25 and 27 mm. 8. Nuštar, grave 142 Brief description of the grave: Rectangular grave pit with hollows under head and feet, two horizontal beams (2.13 m x 0.88 m x 1.11 m), orientation W – E. Skeleton in extended supine position, only lower legs preserved in situ, extremely badly preserved. Anthropological determination: female (20 – 35 years old). Finds: beside the left lower leg there is a vessel, another vessel on the left foot and an animal bone on the right lower leg; other finds originate from the grave fill: a bronze earring, a bronze plate, a silver bead, an iron buckle, and a spindle-whorl. Description of the clasps: A flat backside of a clothing clasp (Fig. 8). The diameter is about 27 mm. 6. Nuštar, grave 137 Brief description of the grave: Rectangular grave pit with hollows under head and feet, and a narrowing on the northern side (2.48 m x 0.53 m x 0.61 m), orientation W – E. Skeleton in extended supine position, arms stretched next to the body. Anthropological determination: child, probably female (15 – 20 years old). Finds: By the right lower leg there is a vessel, in between the lower legs four bronze strap-ends, by the left knee iron hoops from a wooden bucket, on the left hip three bronze hoops, a spindlewhorl, and ochre, on the left finger two bronze finger-rings, on the left arm a bronze bracelet, on the right finger three bronze finger-rings, on the right arm two bronze bracelets, on the right hip a spindle-whorl and an iron knife, beads of a necklace around the neck, clothing clasps under the chin, and a pair of bronze earrings on each side of the skull. Description of the clasps: A pair of clothing clasps (Fig. 6) was found between the left clavicle and mandible, upright. The cloth- 90 All clothing clasps from Croatia are round with glass inlays arranged in rosette-like decoration – glass cells in form of petals arranged in a circle around a larger central glass cell (Pl. 1–2.). The central cell, made of a thin bronze band, is located in the middle of the clasp. It is higher than the rest of clasp (by 5 – 7 mm). A rounded domed glass bead (cabachon) is inserted within it. The central cell is surrounded by six, seven, or eight smaller cells, also made of a thin bronze band, in the form of three quarters of a circle. Within them flat glass inlays were inserted on a base made of organic material (glue). This form is held by a thin bronze band that goes around the rim of the clasp; on the outer side a decorative filigree wire is looped. The back side is made of round flat bronze sheet metal, with traces of a fastening mechanism in form of a hook and eye. There is a difference in the diameter of clasps with a hook, which are a bit smaller than those with an eye (about two to three millimeters). The only difference is in the number of petals and colour of glass (paste). The manner of assembling clothing clasps as described above was partially reconstructed thanks to some specimens from Nuštar that were found in rather bad shape, but could be restored during the restoration process. earlY FasHiOn inFlUenCers Or JUsT OrDinarY WOMen? aniTa raPan PaPeša Although specimens with four to ten petals are known in the Avar material culture, only those with six, seven and eight petals are known from Croatia, six and seven-petaled are here represented by one specimen each. In six cases they come in pairs, suggesting that they were used to fasten two parts of a clothing element. But in two cases, they were discovered as a single find, the one from grave 108 in Nuštar and the one from grave 142 in Nuštar. Both finds come from grave fill, and the skeleton was disturbed. Was this due to additional intervention (re-opening shortly after burial), or do these pieces represent grave gifts (especially in the case of the male in grave 108),8 or were they used secondarily? This remains unclear. origin is still not resolved. In most cases researchers have not paid special attention to resolving the question of clothing clasps when publishing the results of excavations. It was taken for granted that clothing clasps represent rich female clothing items and that they can be dated to the Middle or Late Avar period, depending on their type. The position of the finds is always on the left side (chin, shoulder, collar bone, upper chest). The following chart gives an idea about the sex and age of the wearers of clothing clasps from Croatia. Although the overall number is small, we can read the table as follows: clothing clasps in Croatia are predominately female accessories (even in the case of children, they are most likely female); the only grave identified as male is still under question due to poor preservation of the skeletal remains (it could be a more “masculine” female). This grave is also the only one belonging to someone of mature age, which places it beyond the statistics. The predominant age is fertile, including also older children. In the case of the Nuštar cemetery, we cannot speak about a concentration of such finds in one place; graves with clothing clasps finds create an irregular line in the western part of the cemetery (Fig. 9). In the immediate vicinity of each of these graves is a male grave with a belt set that can be dated to the 8th century. This forms a solid pattern at the Nuštar cemetery, so we can suppose some kind of connection between these warriors and the females with clothing clasps. These males and females most likely form a special elite within the society that was buried at this cemetery, and clothing clasps could represent the prestige and rank that this group had in relation to other members of the society. Following this short overview on published material about Avar period clothing clasps, it has been shown that no final conclusion has yet been reached on the problem of such items, and that much can still be noted. Ilona Kovrig in the book Das awarenzeitliche Gräberfeld von Alattyán, which was published in 1963, uses term Brustspangen for a fastener of a clothing item (cloak or caftan) on the left shoulder.11 Clothing clasps appear in different forms in all of her chronological groups (I – III), but round ones with glass inlays only in the third, latest group. She describes them as disc-shaped and flower-like. As a prototype for these clasps, she takes a pair of golden clothing clasps from the second Igar find12 and connects it with finds of earrings that have an oval hoop and glass pendant and necklaces that consist of melon-seed shaped pearls. Therefore it would belong to a group that can be dated from 650 to 800. Zlata Čilinská in the article Frauenschmuck aus dem 7. – 8. Jh. im Karpatenbecken, which was published in 1975, uses the term Agraffen for a clothing item or clothing brooch usually found on the left shoulder. She divides them into three types: (I) round clothing clasps made of a pressed metal sheet, (II) square clothing clasps made of a pressed metal sheet, and (III) round clothing clasps with glass inlays.13 The latter corresponds to the finds from Croatia. She describes this type as Blumenartige or flowerlike. According to assemblages found in graves with this type of clothing clasps, they chronologically belong in the Late Avar period.14 The origin and fashion of fastening an upper garment on the shoulder, according to Čilinská, should be sought in the Roman tradition (fibulae). Although such finds have been known for more than 100 years,9 and several typologies have been made,10 the question of the Eva Garam in the article Über das Awarenzetliche Goldene Agraffenpaar von Dunapataj, published in 1989, uses the term Agraffen; although the main topic are box-shaped clothing clasps, she also gives an overview on the development of Avar period clothing clasps. According to her research,15 they were unknown in the Early Avar period, and they appear in the Middle Avar period as pressed metal sheets. Throughout the 8th century, they develop into round clothing clasps with glass inlays (Rossetenagraffe) and oval box-shaped clothing clasps (Schachtelagraffe). The origin should be sought in workshops of the Byzantine Empire, especially in terms of items like disc fibulae, belt ornaments, decorative discs on bracelets and necklaces, as well as reliquary shrines. Through the course of time, the production began to be mass and locally based, especially in the second half of the 8th century.16 8 In the case of Grave 108, the bones were very poorly preserved and the sex was estimated as male based on the morphological characteristics of the mandible and the robust nature of the long bones (verbal information, Z. Premužić). 11 Kovrig 1963, 116. 12 Kovrig 1963, 144, 165–166. 13 Čilinská 1975, 81–82. Hampel 1905, 337 ff. 14 Čilinská 1975, 82. Čilinska 1975, 81–82; Kürti, Wicker 1991; Duricova 2009. 15 Garam 1989, 144. 16 Garam 1989, 148. The item that was used for fastening upper female garments in the Avar period still has no official terminological term. In published articles, different variations of terms are used; the English terms are clothing clasps, round brooches, or agraffe (from German), in German they are referred to as Agraffen, Schliessen, Spangen, Rundspangen, Brustspangen, in Slavic languages they are referred to as agraf(a), pafta, spojka, and in Hungarian as mellboglár or just boglár. The above terms are used to describe two-part finds, made of metal and richly decorated, associated with (rich) female burials. 9 10 91 avari i slaveni — avars and slavs camaz 05 Bela Kürti and Erica Wicker in the article Bemerkungen zur Agraffenfrage der Awarenzeit, published in 1991, use the term Agraffen for a clothing object that also shows a deviation in attire and a different tradition system. According to the method and form of construction, they divide clothing clasps into five groups: (I) clothing clasps with decorated cells, (II) clothing clasps made of pressed metal sheets, (III) round clothing clasps with glass inlays (Rundspangen mit Glaseinlage in Blumenblattzellen), (IV) box-shaped clothing clasps, and (V) gold-plated bronze clothing clasps.17 Finds from Croatia belong to their type III, which spreads along the Danube River and is absent from the hinterland, pointing to the Danube as the route whereby they came into the Khaganate. This type can be dated throughout the 8th century.18 Although they support the theory of Byzantine artistic influence, according to their opinion, the origin of clothing clasps should be looked for in Central Asia and connected to new populations that moved to Pannonia in the Late Avar period. male graves that are typical for the last three quarters of the 8th century.23 Eric Breuer in the book Byzanz an der Donau, published in 2005, uses the term Agraffen and presumes a domestic production,19 but sees the origin in Mediterranean disc shaped fibulae and Late Merovingian attire with two fibulas. Peter Stadler in the book Quantitative Studien zur Archäologie der Awaren I, published in 2005, uses the term Agraffen, as an important part of Late Avar period female attire,20 and lists 24 different types. Finds from Croatia correspond to his types Agraffe 00200 and Agraffe 00240. The type Agraffe 00200 is described as a round clothing clasp with 2 coloured six glass inlays (Agraffe/ Rund/Glas/Rosette/06Blätter/Kerbrand/2farbig), with two listed sites and seven examples. The type Agraffe 00240 is described as round clothing clasp with eight glass inlays (Agraffe/Rund/Glas/ Rosette/06Blätter/Kerbrand/2farbig), with 47 examples from 25 sites concentrated along the Danube and Tisza Rivers. Marta Ďuricová in the article K výskytu agráf na pohrebiskách obdobia avarského kaganátu z územia Slovenska, published in 2009, uses term agráf for ornamented metal objects used for fastening an upper garment. She divides them into two groups (I) flat clothing clasps (further divided into rectangular, oval, round; round clasps are subdivided into the following shapes: starshaped, ray-shaped, rosette) and (II) oval box-shaped clothing clasps.21 Finds from Croatia correspond to her flat round rosette shaped clothing clasps (Rozetovité agrafy šesťlístkové, osemlístkové). She dates their appearance from 720 up to the turn of the 8th to 9th centuries.22 The origin is supposed to be Byzantine, especially for earlier specimens, but then production began to be local and forms adjusted to local populations. We can observe a similar pattern in Croatian finds, as well. Earrings (Pl. 3:1–5) were found in five graves with clothing clasps, all in Nuštar (grave 108, one; grave 112, one; grave 137, a pair; grave 167B, a pair; grave 142, one). Except for grave 167B, which has an earring with a round hoop, all the others have an oval hoop. All hoops have decorations in the form of granulation on the hoop side, and traces of several beaded pendants. All earring have (or had) a pendant made of green or blue translucent glass; the preserved pendants are prismatic. These are the types that can be dated to the 8th century.24 Necklaces (Pl. 1, 5: 2–4, 6) consisting of glass beads were found in five graves with clothing clasps, one in Draž and four in Nuštar. We can distinguish necklaces made of melon-seed like beads (Draž, Nuštar grave 112; Nuštar, grave 137), necklaces made of combined beads (Nuštar grave 108, melon-seed and segmented; Nuštar grave 167B, millet-seed like and small round beads). All these types are typical finds of the Late Avar period; melon-seed shaped and millet-seed shaped beads occur in the late 7th century, but these types are predominant in the 8th century.25 Bracelets (Pl. 1, 4, 5: 1) were found in three graves with clothing clasps, one in Draž and in two graves at Nuštar (grave 9, two bracelets; grave 137, three bracelets). We can distinguish three types of bracelets: bronze cast bracelets with wide ends, bronze sheet metal cut out and hammered, and twisted iron bracelets. All these types also belong to Late Avar period assemblages. Finger-rings (Pl. 3: 6–14) were found in two graves with clothing clasps, both at Nuštar (grave 9, five pieces; grave 137, five pieces). We can distinguish at least four different types (some finds are too damaged to be determined): bronze rings with a crown and glass inlay, bronze rings with a crown, rings cut out from bronze sheet metal with punched decoration, bronze rings made of wire with an S-shaped end. All these types belong to the Late Avar period as well. In many cases round clothing clasps with glass inlay are accompanied by punched bracelets made of bronze wire of rhomboidal section, melon-seed-shaped glass beads, earrings with glass beads, finger-rings, yellow pottery – in other words finds from fe- As shown previously, clothing clasps from Croatia represent Late Avar period finds. The art of their manufacture shows that they must have been produced in a workshop with skilled knowledge, and not locally in a settlement. The location of such a workshop remains unclear. Perhaps it should be sought in Sirmium, as was already suggested,26 or at some other, currently unknown location. As shown on the distribution map, the finds are distributed along the former (Roman) Danube limes and adjacent Barbaricum; the strong traditions of late antiquity in Syrmia are attested by the events around the year 680 AD, when the Romano-Pannonian population led by Kuver instigated a rebellion and migrated back towards Byzantine territories. They called themselves “Sermesianoi”.27 Therefore, I would agree with most scholars that round clothing clasps, as previously shown, had been manufactured locally. But it must have been in the sense of well established workshops. Taking into consideration that the Late Avar period population lived a sedentary lifestyle, and that we 17 Kürti, Wicker 1991, 20. 23 Čilinská 1966, 163; Garam 1975, 102. 18 Kürti, Wicker 1991, 21. 24 Garam 1975, 100. 19 Breuer 2005, 137. 25 Pásztor 2008, 118–119. 20 Stadler 2005, 134. 26 Vinski-Gasparini 1952, 26; Vinski 1957, 30. 21 Ďuricová 2009, 263–273. 27 Pohl 2018, 277. 22 Ďuricová 2009, 272. 92 earlY FasHiOn inFlUenCers Or JUsT OrDinarY WOMen? aniTa raPan PaPeša do not have much evidences of travelling goldsmiths for the period, these items most probably were made in specific places. which would suggest that she had entered the world of adults. This is further emphasised by the young girl aged 16 – 18 years in grave 137, as well as the young female from grave 9 aged around 20 years. Due to poor preservation of the osteological material, the individuals from grave 112 (aged 20 to 30 years), 115 (adult), and 142 (adult, 35 – 50 years) cannot be determined more precisely. Looking into the assemblages from these graves, we could state that the deceased in them belong to the highest ranking members of society; most likely they were buried in their formal attire (Festtracht), or in the case of the younger females in their wedding attire.36 Similar conclusions have been brought up for the territory of present-day Slovakia, where only 10 out of 36 graves provided anthropological results; all burials were females, mostly classified to the juvenis – matures I age categories.37 We lack full analysis for other parts of the Khaganate,38 but according to available data, similar conclusions can be made for the territory of present-day Serbia (for example, Vrbas),39 Austria (for example, Leobersdorf),40 and Hungary (for example, PilismarótBasaharc).41 As the distribution maps show, these items are more common in the vicinity of large rivers, the Danube and the Tisza. There the entering point to the Khagante should be sought. Therefore I would reject a Roman or Mediterranean origin, and incline to those scholars that propose a Byzantine origin. These routes are also known for certain other items that have Byzantine origins, for example, belt mounts28 or female headwear ornaments,29 and the distribution pattern is almost identical. Detailed analysis of certain types gives insight into almost identical results, independent of the methodology used. When comparing the results, a pattern is visible, yet for resolving this question a deeper analysis is required. Although one could argue that clothing clasps are supposed to come in pairs in order to retain their original purpose, we have two cases of a single find. In the case of Nuštar grave 108, anthropologically determined as male,30 we have only one clothing clasp that was found in the gravefill, so we do not know its original position. In fact, the whole grave was disturbed, only the vessel was found in situ. Typical finds of the opposite sex are not unknown in the Avar Period, but they are also not that common.31 In the case of Nuštar, we also have females with belt sets, as well as males with female jewellery and equipment.32 The explanations can differ; the most common are explanations as grave gifts or markers of social rank, but why not take into consideration also uncommon ones, like gender diversity. If we know of eunuchs in the Byzantine world,33 why not consider their existence in the Avar world as well? It is a tricky and discussable area, but in my opinion it should be taken into consideration. Another explanation could be looked for in homosexuality or cross-dressing, but it cannot be archeologically proven, and shall remain as a theory until further investigation. In the case of Nuštar grave 142, we have observed that the skeleton above the knee area was disturbed as well, and the exact location of the site of discovery remains unknown. It is also the only example that has only the back side preserved, and although during the course of excavation the soil was looked through with metal detectors, no other pieces of it have been recovered. Was it disassembled during a disturbance or is something else in question? This remains unclear. Similar finds have been observed in graves 37 and 407 at the Nové Zámky cemetery.34 As seen from the sex and age distribution chart, the custom of wearing clothing clasps in Nuštar begins at an early age, as seen in the case of the young girl buried in grave 167B. At the age of 9 – 12 years,35 she has already been equipped as an adult female, As already mentioned, graves with clothing clasps in Nuštar are located in the immediate vicinity of male graves with belt sets. To the left of grave 9, the male in grave 8 had a belt set that can be dated to SS III/IV. To the left, but in another row from grave 108, the male in grave 135 had a belt set that can be dated to SS III/IV. To the left of grave 112, the male in grave 147 had a belt set that can be dated to SS IV. To the right, but in another row, from grave 115, the male in grave 126 had a belt set that can be dated to SS III. In the same position, but in another row from grave 137, the male in grave 135 had a belt set that can be dated to SS III/IV. In the same position, but in another row from grave 167B, the male in grave 168 had a belt set that can be dated to SS II. On the right from grave 142, the male in grave 72 had a belt set that can be dated to SS III/IV. This can be explained by the existence of close, family relations between them. Most probably the wives or daughters of elite warriors are in question. On the other hand, other females that have males with belt sets buried in near proximity do not have finds of clothing clasps. Therefore this phenomenon should be considered to be very specific to a certain period in cemetery usage, and connected to a very special group in the society. A similar pattern was observed at the Szebény cemeteries.42 The attribution of belt sets was done according to Zabojnik; his SS III phase is dated to 750 – 780, and his SS IV phase to 780 – 800 (825). These are the dates for clothing clasps with eight petals. On the other hand, the clothing clasp with six petals is dated with a SS II phase belt set, which is dated to 720 – 750.43 Out of 43 graves identified as females in Nuštar44 only 4 wore clothing clasps (representing a percentage of 9.3%). This percent- 28 Szenthe 2018, 303–306. 36 Distelberger 2004, 54–55. 29 Vida 2018, 929–930. 37 Ďuricova 2009, 276. 30 A DNA analysis is being conducted at the moment and the results shall provide a final answer to this question. 38 We lack anthropological data for most sites. 39 Nagy 1971. Duricova 2009, 264, 274. 40 Daim 1987. 32 Rapan Papeša 2014, 167–168. 41 Fettich 1965. 33 Magiorkinis et al. 2008. 42 Garam 1975, 109. 34 Čilinská 1966, 163. 43 Zabojnik 1991, 248. 35 Details about the age were received via verbal communication with the anthropologist Petra Rajić Šikanjić, whom I would like to thank for her help. 44 Premužić, Rajić Šikanjić, Rapan Papeša 2017, 138. 31 93 avari i slaveni — avars and slavs age is much higher than in other known and published cemeteries; for example Holiare (203 females,45 3 with clothing clasps,46 or 1.48%), Alattyán (52 females,47 2 with clothing clasps,48 or 3.85%), Vrbas (44 females,49 2 with clothing clasps, or 4.55%). Taken into consideration that Nuštar is, at the moment, the southernmost site with finds of clothing clasps, this high percentage can be explained as representing an entering point for material or as reflecting the significance of the site to the central powers. The earliest example of clothing clasps from Croatia comes from grave 167B in Nuštar; according to the assemblage of that grave and the male with a belt set in the vicinity it belongs to the second quarter of the 8th century. All other examples from Nuštar and Draž belong to second half of the 8th century. The females wearing clothing clasps found in the territory of Croatia can be considered as influencers in today’s terms. According to a more classical approach, they would have been described as members of the highest rank of society. In any case, these persons were not ordinary members of society, but further research on the subject is needed in order to resolve this question. 45 Malá 1965, 424. 46 Točík 1968, 24, 89, 114. 47 Kovrig 1963, 246. 48 Kovrig 1963, 36–37. 49 Nagy 1971, 203–204, 216. 94 camaz 05 earlY FasHiOn inFlUenCers Or JUsT OrDinarY WOMen? aniTa raPan PaPeša BiBliography Breuer 2005 – E. Breuer, Byzanz an der Donau: eine Einführung in Chronologie und Fundmaterial zur Archäologie im Frühmittelalter im mittleren Donau Raum, Verlag Lorenz Senn, 2005. Čilinská 1966 – Z. Čilinská, Slawisch – awarisches Gräberfeld in Nové Zámky, Archaeologica Slovaca – Fontes 7, Vydavatel'stvo Slovenskej Akadémie Vied, 1966. Čilinská 1975 – Z. Čilinská, Frauenschmuck aus dem 7. – 8. Jahrhundert im Karpatenbecken, Slovenská Archeológia 23/1, 1975, 63–96. Daim 1987 - F. Daim, Das Awarische Graberfeld Von Leobersdorf, Niederosterreich, Verlag der Österreichischen Akademie der Wissenschaften, 1987. Dimitrijević, Kovačević, Vinski 1962 – D. Dimitrijević, J. Kovačević, Z. Vinski, Seoba naroda – Arheološki nalazi jugoslavenskog Podunavlja, Narodni muzej Zemun, 1962. Distelberger 2004 – A. Distelberger, Österreichs Awarinnen Frauen aus Gräbern des 7. und 8. Jahrhunderts, Archäologische Forschungen in Niederösterreich 3, Niederösterreichisches Institut für Landeskunde, 2004. Dugonjić, Rapan Papeša (ed.) 2019 – A. Dugonjić, A. Rapan Papeša (ed.), Avari i Slaveni / Avars and Slavs, Arheološki muzej u Zagrebu, 2019. Ďuricová 2009 – M. Ďuricová, K výskytu agráf na pohrebiskách obdobia avarského kaganátu z územia Slovenska, Slovenská archeológia 57/2, 2009, 261–283. Fettich 1929 – N. Fettich, Adatok az osgermán állatornamentumok II. stílusának eredetkérdéséhez, Archaeologiai értesítö 43, 1929, 68–124. Garam 1975 – E. Garam, The Szebény I-III cemetery, in Garam, E., Kovrig, I., Szabó, Gy., Török, Gy. (ed.), Avar finds in the Hungarian National Museum, Cemeteries of the Avar Period (567 – 829) in Hungary 1, Akadémiai Kiadó, 1975, 49–120. Garam 1989 – É. Garam, Über das awarenzeitliche goldene Agraffenpaar von Dunapataj, Folia archaeologia 40, 1989, 137–153. Grömer, Rapan Papeša 2015 – K. Grömer, A. Rapan Papeša, Jednostavne tkanine i žigosana koža: organski nalazi s avarodobnog groblja u Nuštru (istočna Hrvatska) / Simple cloth and stamped leather: organic finds from the Avar graveyard in Nuštar (Eastern Croatia), Vjesnik Arheološkog muzeja u Zagrebu 48, 2015, 51–83. Hampel 1905 – J. Hampel, Alterthümer des frühen Mittelalters in Ungarn 1, Systematische Erläterung, Braunschweig Druck und Verlag von Friedrich Vieweg und Sohn, 1905. Rapan Papeša 2012b – A. Rapan Papeša, Nuštar – avarsko groblje, Hrvatski arheološki godišnjak 8, 2012, 65–68. Rapan Papeša 2014 – A. Rapan Papeša, Keramički i olovni pršljenci za vretena iz avarodobnih grobova na lokalitetu Nuštar-Dvorac / Clay and lead spindle whorls from Avar period graves at Nuštar-Dvorac site, Prilozi Instituta za arheologiju 31, 2014, 159–180. Stadler 2005 – P. Stadler, Quantitative Studien zur Archäologie der Awaren 1, Mit Beiträgen von Walter Kutschera, Walter Pohl und Eva Maria Wild, Verlag der Österreichischen Akademie der Wissenschaften, 2005. Szenthe 2018 – G. Szenthe, Material culture patterning as the source of the Avar power network, 8th century AD, in Rácz, Zs., Koncz, I., Gulyás, B. (ed.), „Hadak útján”, A népvándorláskor fiatal kutatóinak XXVI. konferenciája, Gazdaság – kereskedelem – kézművesség / 26th Conference of Young Scholars on the Migration Period, Economy – trade – craftsmanship, Dissertationes Archaeologicae ex Instituto Archaeologico Universitatis de Rolando Eötvös nominatae, Supplementum 2, Eötvös Loránd University, Institute of Archaeological Sciences, 2018, 291–314. Szentpéteri (ed.) 2002 – J. Szentpéteri (ed.), ADAM – Archäologische Denkmäler der Awarenzeit in Mitteleuropa 1–2, Varia Archaeologica Hungarica 13/1–2, MTA Régészeti Intézet, Budapest, 2002. Točík 1968 – A. Točík, Slawisch-awarisches Gräberfeld in Holiare, Archaeologica Slovaca – Catalogi 1, Vydavatel'stvo Slovenskej Akadémie Vied,1968. Vida 2018 – T. Vida, Late Antique and Early Medieval Female Headwear Ornaments from the Carpathian Basin (Veils, Hairnets and Headbands), in Bács, T. A., Bollók, Á., Vida, T. (ed.), Across the Mediterranean – Along the Nile: Studies in Egyptology, Nubiology and Late Antiquity 2, Institute of Archaeology, Research Centre for the Humanities, Hungarian Academy of Sciences, Museum of Fine Arts, 2018, 915–935. Vinski-Gasparini 1952 – K. Vinski-Gasparini, Ranosrednjovjekovan slavenski zlatni nakit u Arheološkom muzeju u Zagrebu, Starohrvatska prosvjeta 3/2, 1952, 19–28. Vinski 1957 – Z. Vinski, Arheološki spomenici velike seobe naroda u Srijemu, Situla 2, 1957. Zábojník 1991– J. Zábojník, Seriation von Gürtelbeschlaggarnituren aus dem Gebiet der Slowakei und Österreichs (Beitrag zur Chronologie der Zeit des awarischen Kaganats), in Čilinská, Z. (ed.), K problematike osídlenia stredodunajskej oblasti vo včasnom stredoveku, Archeologický ústav Slovenskej akadémie vied, 1991, 219–321. Kovrig 1963 – I. Kovrig, Das awarenzeitliche Gräberfeld von Alattyán, Archaeologia Hungarica 40, Akademiai Kiadó, 1963. Kürti , Wicker 1991 – B. Kürti, E. Wicker, Bemerkungen zur Agraffenfrage der Awarenzeit, Zalai Múzeum 3, 1991, 19–34. Magiorkinis et al. 2008 – E. Magiorkinis, M. Karamanou, A. Diamantis, G. Androutsos, The various types and roles of eunuchs in the Byzantine Empire, International Journal of Health Science 1/4, 2008, 141–143. Malá 1965 – H. Malá, Anthropologische Analyse von Skelettresten aus dem Slawisch-awarischen Gräberfeld in Holiare, Slovenská Archeológia 13/2, 1965, 423–451. Nagy 1971 – S. Nagy, Nekropola iz ranog srednjeg veka u ciglani „Polet“ u Vrbasu, Rad vojvođanskih muzeja 20, 1971, 187–268. Pásztor 2008 – A. Pásztor, Ergebnisse der typochronologischen Untersuchung awarenzeitlicher Perlenfunde in Ungarn – Perlentracht in der Früh- und Mittelawarenzeit, Antaeus 29–30, 2008, 307–324. Pohl 2018 – W. Pohl, The Avars, A Steppe Empire in Central Europe, 567 – 822 AD, Cornell University Press, 2018. Premužić, Rajić Šikanjić, Rapan Papeša 2017 – Z. Premužić, P. Rajić Šikanjić, A. Rapan Papeša, Bioarheološka analiza avarodobnog groblja u Nuštru, Izdanja Hrvatskog arheološkog društva 31, 2017, 137–142. Rapan Papeša 2012a – A. Rapan Papeša, Prvi nalazi s avarskog groblja na položaju Nuštar / The first findings from the Avar cemetery in Nuštar / Die ersten Funde des Awarenfriedhofs an der Fundstelle Nuštar, Gradski muzej Vinkovci, 2012. 95 avari i slaveni — avars and slavs Site Grave Bibliography 1. Draž 2. Nuštar 9 3. Nuštar 108 – 4. Nuštar 112 – 5. Nuštar 115 – 6. Nuštar 137 – 7. Nuštar 167B – 8. Nuštar 142 – 96 – camaz 05 Fettich 1929; Dimitrijević, Kovačević, Vinski 1962; Szentpéteri (ed.) 2002. Rapan Papeša, Grömer 2015; Dugonjić, Rapan Papeša (ed.) 2019. earlY FasHiOn inFlUenCers Or JUsT OrDinarY WOMen? ← map 1. Avar period sites in continental Croatia (made by P. Šmalcelj Novaković). ← table 1. List of clothing clasps finds in Croatia (made by A. Rapan Papeša). aniTa raPan PaPeša figure 1. Clothing clasps from Draž (photo by G. Szenthe). figure 2. Clothing clasps from grave 9, Nuštar (photo by J. Škugor). figure 3. Clothing clasp from grave 108, Nuštar (photo by J. Škugor). figure 4. Clothing clasps from grave 112, Nuštar (photo by J. Škugor). figure 1. figure 2. figure 3. figure 4. 97 avari i slaveni — avars and slavs camaz 05 figure 5. Clothing clasps from grave 115, Nuštar (photo by J. Škugor). figure 6. Clothing clasps from grave 137, Nuštar (photo by J. Škugor). figure 7. Clothing clasps from grave 167B, Nuštar (photo by J. Škugor). figure 8. Back side of a clothing clasp from grave 142, Nuštar (photo by J. Škugor). → table 2. Sex and age distribution (made by A. Rapan Papeša). → figure 9. Plan of Nuštar cemetery; graves with clothing clasps (red) and neighbouring male graves (blue) with belt sets (made by A. Rapan Papeša). figure 5. figure 6. figure 7. figure 8. 98 earlY FasHiOn inFlUenCers Or JUsT OrDinarY WOMen? ŵĂůĞ aniTa raPan PaPeša ĨĞŵĂůĞ ĐŚŝůĚƌĞŶ ϯ Ϯ ϭ ϱͲϭϬ ϭ ϭϱͲϮϬ ϭ ϮϬͲϯϱ ϯϱͲϱϬ ƵŶŬŶŽǁŶ 99 avari i slaveni — avars and slavs camaz 05 plate 1. Finds from Draž (after Fettih 1929, T. XL), no scale. 100 earlY FasHiOn inFlUenCers Or JUsT OrDinarY WOMen? aniTa raPan PaPeša plate 2. Clothing clasps from Nuštar: (1) G 9, (2) G 108, (3) G 115, (4) G 137, (5) G 142, (6) G 167B, (7) G 112 (made by M. Galić). 101 avari i slaveni — avars and slavs camaz 05 plate 3. Earrings and finger-rings from Nuštar: (1) G 108, (2) G 112, (3) G 137, (4) G 142, (5) G 167B, (6 – 10) G 9, (11 – 14) G 137 (made by M. Galić). 102 earlY FasHiOn inFlUenCers Or JUsT OrDinarY WOMen? aniTa raPan PaPeša plate 4. Bracelets from Nuštar: (1 – 2) G 9, (3 – 4) G 137 (made by M. Galić). 103 avari i slaveni — avars and slavs camaz 05 plate 5. Bracelet and necklaces from Nuštar: (1) G 137, (2) G 112, (3) G 108, (4) G 115 (made by M. Galić). 104 earlY FasHiOn inFlUenCers Or JUsT OrDinarY WOMen? aniTa raPan PaPeša plate 6. Necklaces from Nuštar: (1) G 137, (2) G 167B (made by M. Galić). 105