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Review of N. HUMBLE, The Literature of Food, 1860-present

2020

https://doi.org/10.1080/15528014.2020.1766890

Food, Culture & Society, 2020

Food, Culture & Society An International Journal of Multidisciplinary Research ISSN: (Print) (Online) Journal homepage: https://www.tandfonline.com/loi/rffc20 The literature of food. An introduction from 1830 to present by Nicola Humble, London, Bloomsbury Academic, 2020, 296 pp., 11 illustrations, ISBN: 978-0857854568 Peter Scholliers To cite this article: Peter Scholliers (2020): The literature of food. An introduction from 1830 to present, Food, Culture & Society, DOI: 10.1080/15528014.2020.1766890 To link to this article: https://doi.org/10.1080/15528014.2020.1766890 Published online: 22 May 2020. Submit your article to this journal View related articles View Crossmark data Full Terms & Conditions of access and use can be found at https://www.tandfonline.com/action/journalInformation?journalCode=rffc20 FOOD, CULTURE & SOCIETY BOOK REVIEW The literature of food. An introduction from 1830 to present, by Nicola Humble, London, Bloomsbury Academic, 2020, 296 pp., 11 illustrations, ISBN: 978-0857854568 Nicola Humble, professor of English literature at the University of Roehampton, teaches an undergraduate course on the literature of food, the first (and still only?) in the UK. Reading Literature of Food, I can appreciate the richness of topics, approaches, and insights that undergraduates gain when taking this course because this book is varied, rich, challenging, astounding, and enthusing. This does not surprise: the author has shown familiarity with the history of food by publishing the well-received Culinary Pleasures. Cookbooks and the Transformation of British Food (2006) and Cake: A Global History (2010). This rich monograph, that refers to multiple concepts of various disciplines and applies a rhizomatic logic (Wikipedia knows what this is), deals with British literature since the 1830s. It has two sections that cover very wide horizons. The historical section includes chapters on hunger, fine dinners, servants’ relations with employers, and gender in relation to cooks and eaters. The second section considers literary forms with chapters on modern food, children’s literature, recipes, and disgust. The latter revisits the way disgust appears in the abovementioned chapters. The author apologizes for the fact that the book ignores sexuality, overweight, ecology, and migration (I could add health, social inequality, or colonialism). But no worries: Nicola Humble’s attention to food with regard to social reformers, bachelors, posh diners, mothers, artists, children, feminists, grand chefs, and servants offers plenty of insights to please each reader. All this is a lot, and perhaps it would have been preferable to focus on a central Fragestellung, or central question. However, the subtitle of the book contains the (confusing, all-purpose) word “Introduction,” which permits broad and varied coverage. The book’s overall absence of a research question becomes apparent in the Conclusion where certain lines of research could have been developed more fully. Yet, Humble uses the way eggs appear in the food literature to summarize the book in a surprising and pleasant way, but it prevents to bring the conclusion to a more analytical level. For example, there is no reply to the author’s seminal question that puzzles literary and other researchers, “How does the reading [of literary texts] intersect with the many complexities of real-world food culture” (1). The idea of “much realist food, even within realist texts, is not ‘realistic’ at all” (2) could have been expounded in the Conclusion. Food in literary studies is not a new topic (e.g., Coghlan 2020; Shahni 2018; Tigner and Carruth 2017; Piatti-Farnell and Lee Brien 2018). In general, emphasis is laid on novels. Nicola Humble does this too (Dickens, Joyce, Beckett, Dahl, and other usual suspects), but she also includes genres such as cookbooks (Alexis Soyer, Isabella Beeton, Elisabeth David, and others), memoirs, and journalism, thus offering a “profoundly heterogenous set of writers” (2). Definitely, this deepens the literary and historical knowledge. The use of cookbooks, newspapers, magazines, and (auto)biographies by food historians is not new, and it would have been beneficial to refer more extensively to their research (e.g., Wilmot Voss 2014; Notaker 2017). Also, it would have been truly innovative to consider schoolbooks meant for household education or restaurant reviews, which tell plenty about Humble’s topics. A final comment: admittedly, a professor of English literature cannot but focus on English authors, but this should not exclude interest in similar research in other languages. This is no plea for 2 BOOK REVIEW systematic attention beyond English literature, but a call for paying attention to the way other scholars have tackled food in literature (e.g., Becker 2017). This could include a survey of past research (not only with regard to literary studies) to underline the book’s originality, as well as a section on methodology (for instance, justification of the choice of the authors of novels and cookbooks). My comments in no way belittle the qualities of this book that will not only enlighten and please literary scientists but also historians, sociologists, and anthropologists. References Becker, K. 2017. Gastronomie et littérature en France au XIXe siècle. Paris: Paradigme (original in German, 2000). Coghlan, M., ed. 2020. Cambridge Companion to Food and Literature. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. Notaker, H. 2017. A History of Cookbooks. From Kitchen to Page over Seven Centuries. Oakland: University of California Press. Piatti-Farnell, L., and D. Lee Brien, eds. 2018. The Routledge Companion to Literature and Food. London: Routledge. Shahani, G., ed. 2018. Food and Literature. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. Tigner, A. L., and A. Carruth, eds. 2017. Literature and Food Studies. London: Routledge. Wilmot Voss, K. 2014. The Food Section. Newspaper Women and the Culinary Community. London: Rowman & Littlefield. Peter Scholliers History Department, Vrije Universiteit Brussel, Brussels, Belgium [email protected] http://orcid.org/0000-0002-8308-2544 © 2020 Peter Scholliers https://doi.org/10.1080/15528014.2020.1766890