Victorian Jewellery (1837 - 1900)

VICTORIAN
JEWELLERY
( 1837 – 1900)
Neeru Jain
Victorian Period 1837-1900 An Overview
 The "Victorian era" as it has come to be known, started on June 20th 1837 with the
crowning of Queen Victoria as the United Kingdom's longest ruling monarch.
 The Victorian era covered a long period of time and consequently it is usually broken
into 3 major periods. They are called early, middle and late but to characterize them
they are also described as the romantic, the grand and the aesthetic.
 The usual jewelry worn by men in the Victorian era consisted in stickpins, watches with
their attendant keys, chains and fobs and rings.
 In Europe, only the simplest of jewelry was worn by young, unmarried women - crosses,
pearls, chains, and mourning jewellery.
 Fine jewelry in the Victorian era denoted more than just wealth. It was intended to
reflect social standing and status as well as convey a message about the dignity and
refinement of the wearer.
“The Romantic Period” (1837-1860)
 Gold ornaments were decorated with intricate engraving, delicate enamel work, and
serpentine designs. The jewels were often accented with seed pearls, small turquoise
beads and pink coral. The favorite pieces of jewelry were love tokens, mementoes, and
souvenirs of travel or events.
 Brooches were extremely popular and were worn in a variety of ways by the Victorian
woman. They were worn on the shoulder, of course, but also at the neck, waist, in the
hair, and on ribbons as necklaces and bracelets and often in clusters.
 Leaves, insects, flowers, vines, and birds and their feathers were molded, stamped and
carved into jewels and mountings. The motifs also included a great amount of symbolic
imagery.
 Queen Victoria's engagement ring from Prince Albert was in the form of a serpent.
 Amethysts, Opals, Turquoise, and Freshwater, baroque and seed pearls are often found
in examples of Victorian jewelry.
“Mid-Victorian or Grand Period”(1860-1885)
 Early Victorian jewelry incorporated light, delicate designs with elaborate

engraving.
 The Mid-Victorian period displayed bolder, and brighter jewelry, introducing

both day and evening wear. Day jewellery consisted of classical motifs made of
small mosaics, sea shells, agate, jasper and amethyst. Diamonds and other
sparkling colorless faceted gems were the rage for evening wear. The pieces
were set in highly detailed Etruscan frames made entirely by hand.
 Cameos could be carved in one color in black shell or onyx or lava or molded
from gutta percha or horn. These were very appropriate for mourning jewelry
and might be incorporated into a locket with a compartment for a coil or lock
of hair.
 Black materials, Jet, Onyx, Gutta Percha, French Jet, and Bog Oak were
commonly used for mourning jewelry because of their flat black appearance.
“Late Victorian or Aesthetic Period” (1885-1900)
 Animal designs, for instance, monkeys or peacocks were fashioned into jewels. There was
a greater sense of social responsibility and an even more liberated woman emerged
during the 1880's. Again, fashions changed and a desire for softer, more feminine colors
in jewelry. Fancy colored sapphires became the stone of choice, in addition to peridot
and spinel. Diamonds gained greater popularity due to their bright sparkle and
increased availability.
 The "late Victorian" period extended from 1885 to Queen Victoria's death in 1900. As
the prolonged malaise of the Grand Period waned, a new spirit of lightness swept over
England like a cool breeze. Fun was back in vogue, and a sense of whimsy was brought
on by the influence of the Queen's daughter-in-law, Princess Alexandria.
 An infinite variety of beautifully engraved bangle bracelets, intricate monogram and
name brooches, sentimental lockets, and other whimsical jewels were created to serve a
growing middle market.
Victorian Jewellery
 Mourning Jewelry actually began around the 17th century and continued in various
mediums throughout England and France. The popularity peaked during the reign of
Queen Victoria upon the death of Prince Albert.
Popularity increased in the United States during the Civil War and woven hair jewelry
because a popular parlour art.

Brooches holding a lock of hair symbolizing an absent love.
 Black was the symbolic color of mourning and Jet was considered the
traditional mourning stone. Cypress the traditional mourning
tree.
 Jewellery reflects every form of decoration, taste and circumstances of period. The
age of Queen Victoria increasing the reign of prosperity in progress, it was
accordingly to be expected that during such a time a great quantity of jewellery
should be made and worn.
 In 19th century during the days of Romans early Victorian and serpents are
particularly very charming with emeralds. Though serpents have been used for rings
and bracelets. Since the days of the Romans and continued to be used throughout the
nineteenth century. These early Victorian serpents are particularly charming.
 There are two kinds of Cameos, the first being Gem Cameos in which a design is cut
in relief on a stone, and the second being their imitations, carried on shells or cut or
moulded in glass or paste.
 Indian jewellery and its imitations became fashionable, when Queen assumed the
title of Empress of India.
 Natural materials such as tortoise shell, lava, jet, gutta percha, bog oak, ivory and
vulcanite were also popular, especially for carved pieces and cameos.
 Other sentimental themes included love and song birds, love knots, clasped hands, hair
jewelry, Mizpah and miniatures.
 Intricately woven hair would be fashioned into bracelets, earrings and brooches with
gold fittings, while simple locks of hair could be enclosed within the glazed compartment
of a hair locket.
 Whimsical motifs such as griffins and dragons, crescent moons and stars, butterflies and
salamanders, were crafted into jewels of astounding beauty.
 A wonderful menagerie of bejeweled insects, animals, stars and crescent moons, griffins,
dragons and beautifully enameled flowers could be found in a late Victorian lady's
jewelry chest. Sporting events, leisure activities, foreign cultures (most notably Japan)
and sentimental symbols of love and good fortune were all common themes embraced by
jewelry designers of the day.
 Late Victorian jewelers took advantage of this abundance by bedecking their creations
with a sparkling array of rose cut and Old European cut diamonds.
 An infinite variety of beautifully engraved bangle bracelets, intricate monogram and

name brooches, sentimental lockets, and other whimsical jewels were created to serve a
growing middle market.
 With the death of Queen Victoria in 1901, the Victorian era sadly came to an end.
VICTORIAN DESIGNS

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What were the three major periods of the Victorian era?

What types of jewelry were popular during the Romantic period?

VICTORIAN

 Early Victorian jewelry incorporated light, delicate designs with elaborate

 The Mid-Victorian period displayed bolder, and brighter jewelry, introducing

 An infinite variety of beautifully engraved bangle bracelets, intricate monogram and

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