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Rajasthani
jewellery
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BY
RAJASTHAN
The land of Rajasthanis, is the largest state of
the Republic of India by area. Rajasthan was
inhabited long before 2500 BC and the Indus
Valley Civilisation had its foundation here in
north Rajasthan itself. The Bhil and the Mina
tribes were the earliest dwellers of this area.
Rajasthan is the hub for all kind of jewellery
including:
 Gemstones
 Traditional Gold Jewellery
 Antique Silver Jewellery
 Contemporary Diamond Jewellery
 Indian Costume Jewellery
 Thewa Jewellery
Jaipur is the capital and the largest city of the

state.
Jaipur
Pink city Jaipur glitters with the fascinating
and fine jewellery. The gems and Jewellery of
Jaipur are famous all over the world.
When it comes to traditional Indian jewellery
not only national but also International buyers
prefer Jaipur.
Rajasthani Jewellery:
Some of the most attractive Indian jewelry comes
from the land of Rajasthan. Rajasthan is considered
to be the crafts paradise of India. In colors, concepts
and workmanship – the handicrafts of Rajasthan are
incomparable. Their ethnic aura makes them absolute
collector's delight. Rajasthani jewelry has a vast and
varied tradition. Each area in Rajasthan actually has
its own unique style of making jewelry. While the
rural Rajasthani women prefer to adorn
themselves with chunky silver jewelry, the urban
ladies generally go for gold jewelry.
Rajasthan is also famous for its precious and semi-
precious jewelry traditions. Exquisite ornaments are
made in Jaipur and Jodhpur using emerald, diamond,
pearl, garnet, agate and lapis lazuli. Rajasthan
specializes in meenakari. Meenakari is the art of
enameling on gold or silver.
 In Jaipur, craftsmen use the champleve or raised-
field style. In Nathdwara, enameling is done on silver
and other metals. Pratapgarh meena or theva work
in gold on green or red enamel is widely appreciated
for its beauty and appeal.
Kundan is the art of setting precious stones in
gold.Kundan jewelry is exclusive both in terms
of design and perfection. Often, a combination
of meenakari and kundan is used to give the jewelry
two equally beautiful surfaces – enamel at the back
and kundan-set gems in the front.
Jewellery For Women
The women take pride in their traditional jewellery
and Rajasthani womenfolk cherish their heritage.
The pieces of jewellery are often heirlooms and
passed down in families. The Rakhri, Bindi and Borla
are the main head ornaments of the women of the
state. Besides these, they use an assortment of
jeweled pins, clips and hair brooches. The Nath is a
nose ring that holds a very important place in the
woman’s adornments. It is considered
auspicious and worn on every joyous occasion.
The Karanphool Jhumka (a bell shaped earring), Toti
(parrot shaped earring), Lathan (grape) and Pipal Patti
(heart shaped ornament) are the most common earrings
worn by Rajasthani women. Necklaces are of varied types
but the favorites are the Chandan Haar, the
Mohanmala, the Champakali, the Adah, the Mohrun,
the Tussi, the Jugnu and the Hansli. Rajasthani women
adorn their arms with a bewildering range of amulets,
bracelets, bangles and rings. Baju Bandh, Gokhru, Bala,
Kada, Chuda and Hathpol are common bangles and
bracelets while the Arsi, a ring is considered a must have
for the newly wed bride. Toe rings such as Anvat and
anklets such as Jhanjhar or Pajeb are owned by almost
every woman. Other favored ornaments include the
Timaniyan, Gajra and Jod.
Jewellery for Men
Jewelry is not the forte of Rajasthani women alone.
Men adorn themselves with a variety of jewels and
jewelry. The ornaments men of this state prefer
include a host of necklaces and chains, rings, armlets,
anklets and earrings. The maharajas and royal and
tribal men alike displayed a fondness for opulent
adornments and their rich aesthetic sense reveals
itself in the many ornaments fashioned out for the
men of the state. The turbans of the royals were
heavily beset with precious and semi precious stones
and precious metal ornamentations such as pins such
as Kalangis and Aigrettes.
Tribal Jewellery
The vast desert state of Rajasthan is
home to the culturally rich tribes such
as the Banjaras, the Bhils and
theGayaris . These tribes deck up in a
vast array of jewelry. The Banjaras are
gypsies and nomads by nature. They
fashion out their jewelry from beads,
sequins, cowries and colorful threads.
Glass beads and brass ornaments are
part of their daily attire. The ornaments
are made up of gold, silver and mainly
brass. Animal bones and ivory are used
too. The gypsy tradition demands that a
prospective groom gift the bride huge
quantities (about 25 kg) of ornaments
before the wedding. Tribal jewelry of
Rajasthan forms part of the rich
handicraft heritage of the state.
Types Of Jewellery
 Kundan Work:
Kundan is a special style of jewelry making
specially practiced in Rajasthan. The precious
and semiprecious gems are set in gold and
silver. The surface of the jewelry is crafted
skillfully and meticulously leaving holes for the
gems. The gems are then set with a lac base at
the back of the ornament. kundan is the local
word for gold which forms the interface
between the lac and the gemstones. The pieces
are often enameled giving them a bright look .
 Meenakari Jewelry:
Meenakari Jewelry is another specialty of the
states’ artisans. Precious and semiprecious
gems are embellished into gold or silver
jewelry and the meal itself is enameled with
bright colors. Introduced to the state’s jewelers
by Raja Mansingh of Amer, this style of jewelry
crafting was originally discovered by the
skilled workmen of Lahore. Honed to
perfection by the jewelry makers of the state,
Meenakari jewelry now bears the unmistakable
stamp of Rajasthani expertise. Jaipur is the hub
of this skill.
 Thewa:
Thewa work is the famous art of
creating golden patterns on glass.
Chittorgarh is famed for such
Thewa jewelry. The universal
appeal of the intricate designs
and the raging colors reflects in
the popularity of Thewa
pendants not only in India but all
over the world. Brilliant greens,
blues and reds and floral patterns
of gold cast a spell over every
woman’s heart.
In Rajasthan, unique ornaments
are created by combining
Kundan and Meenakari styles of
jewelry crafting. The embedded
stones stand out in the enameled
pieces and their brilliance is set
off by the intricate designs and
superior craftsmanship.
Precious And Semiprecious Gems:
Diamond, Ruby, Emerald, Jade,
Garnets, Agate, Amethyst, Pearl,
Blue Sapphire, Tourmaline Topaz,
Lapis lazuli, Carnelian...the
kaleidoscopic hues of the precious
and semiprecious stones used in
Rajasthani ornaments flash and the
brilliance of these are only rivaled
by the beauty of the women who
wear the ornaments. Rajasthan is
one of the largest centers of hand-
cutting of precious and
semiprecious gems around the
entire world This forms the basis of
the kundan ornaments of the state.
Jaipur and Jodhpur are especially
famed for their accomplished
artisans and the glittering markets
of sparkling and splendid jewelry.
Johari Bazar of Jaipur showcases
the exclusive creations in
semiprecious, precious .
Women Ornaments
Big, colorful and traditional necklaces, armlets,
anklets, earrings and rings are the part of
Rajasthan culture. With advent of mughal
empire, Rajasthan became the main center for
production of finest and intricate kind of
jewellery.
 Waist Ornaments
Kardhani
It is the major ornament worn on waist. It
covers from all sides. There are small bells
attached to it. It is also known as kandora or
Mekhala.
The other ornament is Kankati.
 Legs Ornaments
All the ornaments worn on legs are made up of
silver. They are Paijeb, Payal, Kade, chale,
Naveri, Bichuae that are worn on legs.
Paijeb
It is chain of silver in which small bells are tied.
 Payal
It is similar to paijeb. It is solid ring
shaped wire. When it is worn it makes
melodious sound.
 Kada & Langar
They are hollow from inside. Langar is
worn beneath kada which is made by
joinig thick wires of silver together.
 AwlaNevta
It is worn with kada. It is made up of
solid silver. Nevta is also worn with kada.
 Jhanzar & Noopur
The bells are there in them which make
sound when worn.
 Anguda & Bichuae
The anguda is worn on thumbs of toes
while bichuae is worn on fingers of toes.
 Pungpan
It is similar to haathphool. The rings of
toes are joined with payal through hooks.
It is worn on marriage ceremonies.
The other ornaments are todhe, tinke,
lache which adorn the legs of Rajasthani
women.
 NECK ORNAMENTS
MUKTHMALA
It is mostly worn by rich class. It is
nath of pearls and also known as
Surmargi in which there is a beads of
gold.
MANIKMALA
It is made of red, pink jewel which
looks attractive.
TABEEZ
The shape is square, rounded and
triangular. It is worn for protection
against evil spirits.
 WRIST ORNAMENTS
The ornaments covers the wrist from all

sides are made of gold. These are hollow
from inside and from a silken thread
they are tied to wrist
 GHOOKRO
It is sharp edged ornament.
 GAJRE
These are twisted ornament which are in
shape of flower-leaf and made of gold.
 BAJUBAND
It is worn on arms and also known as
Bahuband.
 KADA
It is springular. It is also known as tada.
 HAATHPHOOL
It is in the shape of paan. It is joined
with bangles of handon on one side and
joined with chains of rings on other side.
It is made of simple metal and jewelled.
 FOREHEAD ORNAMENTS
 SHISHPHOOL
It is ornament which worn on hairs. The
intricate work is done artistically on this
ornament.
 SUMMANG
It is the cluster of pearls which is worn
in the middle of hair parting.
 TIKA
It is in shape of medal whose lower part
is made of pearls. It is tied with
summang and hang down the forehead.
It is worn mostly by Oswal, Porwal and
Agarwal class.
 RAKDRI
It is rounded and heavy ornament.
 Tika and Rakdri are symbolic ornament

of married women in Rajasthan.
 EAR ORNAMENTS
 KARNPHOOL
It is in shape of flower in which
pearls hangs downwards .
 JHALE
It is ornament which sticks to ear
and fixed in memandh which is a
single jewellery.
 JHOOTE
It is also known as tops.
Men’s Ornaments
Rajasthan has rich deposits of precious and
semi-precious stones such as emerald, garnet,
agate, topaz and lapiz lazulli. Each gem is
believed to have inherent powers and some of
them are even worn as rings and other
jewllery as lucky charms.
 SHER-NAKH-JANTR
Silver amulets are curved like a tiger’s claw.
The amulets depicts many folklore heroes.
They are featured geometrical shapes and
these shapes represents different identities.
Square, rectangles and pentagons are
representative of a house, six sided amulets
are known as Patri and symbolizes temple.
The circular amulets are called as mandala are
believed to ward off spirits. The amulets
denotes wearer clan or community.
 GAJJALU
They are casted brass ankle bells that are sewn
on to a strip of leather and worn by male
dancers when they perform.
 TAZIM
It is crafted in gold or silver and is hereditary
chain anklet that shows the sign of
recognition. It used to be worn on right ankle
either as necklace or bracelets.
 BALEORA
It is gold necklace that consists of seven chains that
are further adorned with seven clasp units which are
set with gemstones. A screw is built into back clasp to
fasten the entire piece. The necklace has central
pendant called as Jugni decorated with gemstones.
Another neck ornament is GOP and Jagwali. When a
circular torque is introduced in this stunning
pendant, it is called as Jugavali.
Motimala or manak mela is one beautiful necklace
which is made of pearls, emerald and rubies.
 HANSLI
It is rest on collar bone and its basic form is a rigid
circular torque with a hollow or solid construction.
 JHELA OR MURKHI

They are small earring that are worn on earlobes and
are often shaped like six petaled flower.
 KHAG OR KANDHE-KA GAHNA

It is made of gold, its facade side set with gemstones
and emerald on reverse. It is worn either on one
shoulder or on both.
Market and Specialised Centres of Jewellery in Rajasthan
Gemstones
Rajasthan excels in wide range of precious and semi-precious
jewellery. Exquisite ornaments are made in Jaipur and Jodhpur
using emerald, diamond, pearl, garnet, agate and lapiz lazulli.
As oposed to the modern equipments used by European
lapidaries, Jaipur workers use simple tools, inspite of which
their dexterity and skill is remarkable.
A piece of very popular jewellery in Rajasthan is the navratna, a
collection of nine gems set together in a single piece of
jewellery, either a pendant or a ring. Pearls were considered
extremely lucky and emerors even ate ground pearls as
medicine. Traditional designs are still popular in modern India,
though the colored glass or semi-precious stones have taken
place of precious stones as in traditional Rajasthan.
 Jaipur
Centre for gold kundan work and also renowned for diamond and
emrald cutting. Johari Bazar (jeweller’s market) offers the most varied
collection of the region.
 Nathdwara
Temple market in here is the best place to buy silver
kundan andmeenakari work.
 Udaipur and Bikaner
A spillover of the kundan work can be purchased at Udaipur and
exquisite pieces of gold and silver jewellery incorporated on lac for
youngsters can be purchased at the Sunaron-ki-Suwad market in
Bikaner.
 Jaisalmer
Old silver jewellery can be bought at an affordable prices from the
markets of jaisalmer.
 Pratapgarh in Chittaurgarh
This district is famous for thewa jewellery, in which red, green or blue
colored stones are beautifully crafted in the gold plated silver. Small
boxes and jewel cases are also designed in this fashion.
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What are some of the famous types of jewellery from Rajasthan?

What are some of the traditional jewellery pieces worn by Rajasthani women?

Rajasthani

Jaipur is the capital and the largest city of the

The ornaments covers the wrist from all

 Tika and Rakdri are symbolic ornament

 JHELA OR MURKHI

 KHAG OR KANDHE-KA GAHNA

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