Whisky

E YE WITNESS companions
Whiskey
Editor-in-chief charles macLean
WORLD GUIDE • REGIONS • DISTILLERIES

MALTS • BLENDS • TASTING NOTES
eyewitness companions
Whiskey
charles maclean
editor-in-chief
Contributors: Dave Broom, Tom Bruce-
Gardyne, Ulf Buxrud, Ian Buxton, Glenn
Gillen, Peter Mulryan, Hans Offringa,
Dominic Roskrow, Gavin D Smith
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First American Edition, 2008
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Copyright © 2008 Dorling Kindersley Limited of whiskey
All rights reserved
Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, no part of
this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval Introduction 19
system, or transmitted, in any form, or by any means (electronic,
mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise), without the prior
written permission of both the copyright owner and the above publisher
Ingredients 20
of this book.
Production
Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited.
Techniques 24
A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress
ISBN 978-0-7566-3349-3 Maturation 30

Color reproduction by Colourscan, Singapore
Printed and bound in China by Leo Paper Group
Types of Whiskey 34
Bottling and
Discover more at Blending 36
www.dk.com Nosing and Tasting 40
contents
42 Blended Whisky 116
whiskey Ireland 159
nations
England and
Scotland 45 Wales 179
Speyside 48 United States 183
Highlands and Canada 219
Islands 76 Japan 235
Islay 98 Europe 255 Glossary 280
Lowlands 108 Australasia 267 Index 282
Grain Whisky 110 Asia 273 Acknowledgments 287
10 whiskey
Interest in whiskey has never been greater

than it is today, and the current levels
of investment in its production and
marketing reflect this. We are, indeed,
at the dawn of a Golden Age for whiskey.
The secrets of distilling are likely gave over large proportions of their
to have been known by scholars, best arable land to growing barley for
physicians, and monks throughout brewing ale. To prevent this turning
Europe in the early Middle Ages. It sour—preservatives such as hops were
is possible that the knowledge had unknown—much of it must have
already been introduced been distilled.
to Scotland by the early Whiskymaking
14th century, with the remained small-scale
arrival from Ireland of and in the hands of
the MacBeaths. The landowners and local
members of this clan, or communities until well
family, were known to into the 18th century.
be “wise doctors,” and Such “private” distilling
they quickly became from grains grown by
hereditary physicians to the community and
the Kings of Scots and for their consumption
to the Lords of the Isles. (rather than for sale) was
The first written perfectly legal until 1781.
reference to making Glenfiddich took the ground- The first excise duty
breaking step of marketing its
“aqua vitae” in single malt in the 1960s. on whisky—a cunning
Scotland, however, imposition, learned
is from 1494, and we do not find from the Dutch—was imposed as
references to it being taken for early as 1641, which demonstrates
anything other than medicinal that, even by the mid-17th century,
purposes until the early 1500s. By the whisky was, to some extent, being
end of that century, though, whisky made commercially. The earliest
drinking was perceived as a problem reference to an “industrial” distillery
by the Scottish government, which dates from 1689, and during the
sought to curtail it in the Western Isles. 1780s such enterprises began to
References to distilling during the proliferate in Lowland Scotland.
17th century are few and sometimes Parallel developments were taking
contradictory, but it seems likely that place in America, where Evan
whiskymaking was widespread in
Scotland and Ireland. Farming Easter Elchies House stands at the heart of the
Macallan estate, which includes arable land given
communities throughout Scotland over to the cultivation of barley for whiskymaking.
12 whiskey
Williams established a large-scale THE WHISKY REVOLUTION

distillery in Louisville, Kentucky, in The 1823 Excise Act (see p47) laid
1783. When the nascent government the foundations of the modern
of the United States attempted to Scotch whisky industry. Many more
impose tax on commercial distilling distilleries were opened, often on the
eight years later, the farmer-distillers sites of former smugglers’ dens. Some
rebelled, and George Washington lasted only a few years, but others
had to muster an army of 13,000 are with us still. They made malt
men to restore order and the rule whisky and grain whisky—the
of law (see p209). latter mainly in the Lowlands.
Similar unease was manifested After 1830, grain whisky was
in Scotland, where small-scale made in continuous stills,
“private” distillers defied the which had been perfected and
law, becoming “smugglers” patented by a former Inspector
(illicit distillers). By 1800 large, General of Irish Excise,
well-organized bands of Aeneas Coffey (see p172).
smugglers openly flouted the Grain whisky is lighter in
authorities to bring their whisky style, higher in strength, and
to market, and by 1820 the cheaper to produce than malt
situation had become Glenlivet, a whisky. The malt whiskies of
classic Speyside
anarchic. Licensed distillers whisky the day were generally heavy,
and landowners pressed the pungent, and variable in
government to revise the law so quality. It was logical, therefore, to
as to encourage small distillers mix them together to produce a drink
to take out licenses, and make that was more generally acceptable,
good whisky cheaply. and from the 1860s “blended” whisky
Lagavulin was founded in 1817, though illicit came to dominate the market, and
whisky was certainly made in this area of Islay, off blending firms to control the industry.
the west coast of Scotland, well before that date.
introduction 13
US was supplied with good quality

Scotch through adjacent countries such
as Canada and the Bahamas, laying the
foundations of what would become the
largest export market soon after
Prohibition was repealed in 1933.
In the early years of the 20th century,
Irish whiskey prospered as much as
Scotch, but the Irish distillers had turned
their backs on their countryman’s
invention, the Coffey still (see opposite),
and as blended Scotch became better,
In its bricks and mortar, Bushmills, in Ireland, is so the consumption of Irish declined.
very much a 19th-century distillery, but its whiskey-
making origins go back to 1608. Also, a taste for bourbon had been
brought to Europe by American GIs in
Boom and Bust World War II. After the war, the demand
The Scotch boom of the 1890s for Scotch and bourbon was seemingly
culminated in overproduction and a insatiable; Scotch, in particular, became
collapse in confidence by 1900. The the epitome of style and good taste in
industry’s self-assurance returned only the Free World. Demand far-outstripped
in the 1920s, with the amalgamation supply, and throughout the 1960s,
of the leading blending houses into the distilleries were expanded and
Distillers Company Limited (DCL), modernized, and new ones built. The
and (paradoxically) with the banning boom was not to last, however. By the
of the manufacture and sale of spirits mid-1970s—largely owing to
in the US. Knowing that Prohibition changes in fashion away from
could not last forever, the Scotch brown spirits in favor of white
whisky companies made sure that the
14 whiskey
was little left over for

bottling as single malt.
Though it still
accounts for only
around 8% by volume
of total sales of
Scotch (much less in
the case of Japanese
and Irish malts), malt
whisky has spawned
huge enthusiasm,
appreciation, and
enjoyment all over the
world, demonstrated
Maker’s Mark Distillery was founded in by the number of whiskey festivals,
Kentucky in 1805, though its distinctive brand
of bourbon originated in the 1950s. clubs, publications, and websites
devoted to the subject. Appreciation
spirits and wine—distillers contended of malt whisky has seen a
with the potentially disastrous corresponding interest in “small-
combination of a shrinking market and batch” expressions (notably of
large stocks of mature whisky (known bourbon and rye in the US).
in Europe as “the Whisky Loch”).
This had an upside, however, in CURRENT TRENDS
that it led to a phenomenon that has Recent years have seen a rise in the
done a great deal to increase interest number of “wood-finished”
in all kinds of whiskey throughout the whiskies—mainly malts, but also some
world: the discovery of malt. blends and non-Scotch whiskies.
These are simply whiskies that have
THE discovery OF MALT been re-racked into different casks
Led by William Grant & Sons with (usually fresh ex-wine barrels) for the
their Glenfiddich Distillery, followed last months or years of their
by other independents such as maturation. The process was
Macallan and Glenmorangie, distillery pioneered by Glenmorangie as a way
owners began to bottle and market of diversifying the range of products
their own malts for the first time. Of available from a single distillery.
course, Scotch malt whisky had been Another trend has been the
around for at least 500 years, and bottling of “non chill-filtered”
small amounts had been bottled by whiskies, often at “cask strength”
spirits merchants and occasionally by (typically around 60% ABV, as
the distillers themselves, but it had opposed to the more usual 40–43%).
rarely been promoted. Such was the Chill-filtration removes certain
demand for malt whisky from the compounds from the liquid in order
blenders—99.9% of the Scotch sold to retain its clarity and brightness
in the 1970s was blended—that there when ice or water is added. It is also
introduction 15
called “polishing” and happens just (to whose memory this book is
before the whisky is bottled, when respectfully dedicated by all of
the spirit’s temperature is lowered to us who have contributed to it).
freezing and is pushed through a card Over the past 20 years, the science
filter. Most whiskies undergo such underpinning the making and
treatment, but some connoisseurs maturation of whiskey has developed
prefer the compounds to be left in, hugely—although, happily, there are
even if the liquid develops a haze still gaps in our knowledge, which
when water is added. allow us to debate the relative
importance of raw materials,
Better whiskey processes, wood, and the
There is an old Scots saying: intervention of the artisans
“There’s no bad whisky. Just who make the spirit.
good whisky and better Whiskey is the most
whisky!” And this applies to complex spirit known to
any well-made whiskey, man. It rewards study and
from wherever in the world is worthy of contemplation
it comes. We are these days —appreciation as well as
blessed with a great simple enjoyment.
diversity of whiskey styles I hope this book will
available to us from around Canadian Club, a classic guide you, dear reader, on
blended whiskey
the world, and each has its a rewarding journey of
intrinsic qualities. “An discovery into “the world’s
American whiskey is not a failed noblest spirit”—whiskey!
attempt to make Scotch, or vice
versa,” to quote my late colleague Slainte!
Michael Jackson
Charles
When Masataka Taketsuru MacLean,
set up Yoichi Distillery in the edinburgh
1930s, he looked for a site
that mirrored the climatic
conditions he’d experienced
in Scotland.
the world
of whiskey
the World of whiskey 19
the world
of whiskey
Many people drink whiskey without knowing much about it.

While it is not necessary to be familiar with the intricacies of
its production in order to enjoy a dram, a degree of knowledge
adds considerably to the drinker’s pleasure and satisfaction.
T
he ingredients that go together perceived as simply a period of “storage,”
to create whiskey are few in undertaken once the whiskey is made, is
number, and the basic processes actually crucial to the complex and multi-
that turn grain in a field into drink in faceted business of creating whiskey.
a bottle are relatively simple. But the
methods involved in the combination and making spirit
interaction of the raw materials employed At the core of the definition of “spirit” is
are full of subtle nuances and regional or the process of distillation, and there is a
national variations, each adding to the vast stylistic difference between whiskey
particular style of the finished whiskey. made in pot stills and that produced in
In the following pages, we explore continuous stills. Particularly in the case
just where sweetness, peatiness, heather, of pot stills, variations in size, shape, and
smokiness, and saltiness in the aroma operational techniques play a major role
and flavor of whiskey come from, and in determining the whiskey’s make up.
address how such disparate characteristics Although sometimes seen as less
are possible in something made only important than distillation, the earlier
from grain, yeast, and water. stages of mashing and fermentation are
However, to these three ingredients can vital in developing a variety of desirable
be added one more—wood—and, more aromas and flavors that will carry through
specifically, the casks in which whiskey is right into the bottle.
stored during maturation. The casks in At the very beginning, of course, there
question are far from passive vessels. The is the selection of grain. Whiskies are
interaction between wood and new spirit created from one or more of a number of
leads to a mellower and more well- different grains, and the choice of which
mannered drink, and the length of time type and which strain plays a central role
over which the spirit is allowed to mature in shaping the profile of the whiskey into
in the cask will play a major part in its which it will eventually be transformed.
ultimate character, as will any previous So, although the production of whiskey
contents of the cask. What is sometimes from just three principal ingredients may
initially seem to be a straightforward
Whisky from the stills at Abelour is used in blends process, resulting in a spirit that we might
such as Clan Campbell and also released as both imagine would possess little variation, the
a 10-year-old and cask strength single malt. reality is really very different.
20 the world of whiskey
Ingredients
Making whiskey is actually a comparatively simple process using a
small number of ingredients. Yet the permutations of equipment,
practice, and raw materials allow for an incredible number of
variations in the whiskey that finally finds its way into the bottle.
Grain whiskey, only corn is indigenous to

Of all the diverse factors that determine North America. Barley, wheat, and rye
the ultimate character of the whiskey were all cultivated in Europe prior to
we buy, none comes close in importance their introduction to America by
to the type of grain from which that European settlers. Barley is one of the
whiskey is distilled. Whiskey may be longest-established grain crops to be
made from barley, corn, rye, and wheat, grown in Britain and Ireland, and it is
with only barley being used in isolation. thought that Neolithic man was
All other whiskies embrace grains in growing the crop between 5,000 and
various combinations and proportions. 10,000 years ago. Inevitably, from a
Malted barley is used in Scotch malt historical perspective, distillers tended
whisky, and a percentage is included in to work with whichever grain grew most
the multigrain mashbill of most successfully in their vicinity.
whiskies, in order to promote The permitted combinations and
fermentation. Malted barley is the most percentages of various grains within
expensive grain, while corn gives the each designated type or style of whiskey
highest yield per ton. (see p34) are usually enshrined in law.
In terms of flavor, barley contributes For example, “straight rye” whiskey
malty, cereal, biscuitlike notes to must legally be distilled using a
whiskey. Corn gives sweet, spicy, and minimum of 51 percent rye (see p186).
oily notes, while rye contributes a full-
bodied, pepper and spice character, yeast
along with dried fruit on the palate. Yeast is a single-cell organism that feeds
Wheat provides mellow notes of honey, on sugars and produces alcohol and
which balance the bolder characteristics carbon dioxide as a result. It is probably
of other grains when used in the the least discussed element that affects a
production of bourbon. Of all the whiskey’s profile, yet it is essential, not
grains employed in the creation of only in the creation of alcohol, but also
The grains used for whiskey are barley and wheat,
in its contribution to a spirit’s character.
which are used for all Scotch and Irish whiskey, and At one time, virtually all distillers in
corn and rye, which are widely used in the States. Scotland and Ireland used a mixture of
Barley Wheat Corn Rye

a specific distiller’s yeast and a much Barley is one of the cornerstones of whiskey making.
cheaper brewer’s yeast (often collected It is not only the key ingredient of malt whiskey,
but is also used in the majority of mash bills.
from local breweries). Today, in the
interests of greater bacterial control,
some distillers use only distiller’s yeast, available in quantity. Distilleries take
while others believe that the mixture water from boreholes, natural springs,
improves the flavor of the spirit. lochs, burns, and rivers, as well as
Certainly, different strains of yeast from the public supply.
contribute a variety of aromas and Illicit stills were frequently set up in
flavors to the final whiskey. isolated places, not just to hide
Arguably, North American them from the prying eyes of
distillers have been aware of the excisemen, but also
the importance of yeast in because such places were
relation to spirit character for frequently where the best
longer than their European distilling water was to be
counterparts, and many US found. If the distillers
distilleries pre-cultivate their ultimately chose to operate
own yeast strains on site. Yeast transforms within the law—as many
Modern yeasts are employed the sugars in the did—they were often loath to
to promote a more predictable grain into alcohol. leave their favored locations,
and less volatile fermentation than was hence the remote settings of so many
sometimes the case in the past. distilleries, especially in Scotland.
If water is so crucial to whiskeymaking,
Water it follows that the character of the water
The production of malt whiskey used can have a significant impact on
revolves around the addition and the profile of the final spirit. Salts
subtraction of water at various stages in dissolved in water used to make wort
the whiskeymaking process. Moisture is (see p25) affect its flavor and provide
removed from newly-harvested malting trace elements which are vital in the
barley; water is added to the malt propagation of yeast. It is often said
during steeping; and moisture is taken
Distilleries such as Glenfarclas are found in
away again during kilning. Water is isolated locations because of the whiskeymaker’s
added during the mashing process, search for abundant supplies of pure water.
removed during distillation, and once
again added before bottling to reduce
the strength of the spirit. Water is also
used for condensing the distilled spirit.
It is fair to say that the most
important single factor in distillery
location has always been the availability
of a reliable source of pure water.
Everything else is secondary. The water
must be pure, but it must also be
that the best whiskey is made using soft

water that flows over granite and peat.
This is perhaps because granite is very
insoluble, and so does not pass
undesirable minerals into the water.
Soft water is also a better solvent than
hard water, and, because it contains
very little calcium, yeast can work more
vigorously in it and ferment the wort
more efficiently. Nonetheless, it is not The kilns at Balvenie Distillery are fired up
difficult to find examples of distilleries with the addition of peat to create a distinctive,
phenolic characteristic in the whisky.
which make excellent whiskies using
hard water. They include Glenmorangie, layer of limestone is also pitted with
in the Scottish Highlands, and caverns, which act as reservoirs.
Highland Park, on Orkney. Water temperature is another
The water of the Scottish Highlands significant variable in whiskeymaking.
is usually soft, however. It rises in red Even in the condensers this is the case,
granite and often flows along its way since the colder the water the more
through peat and heather, efficient the condensing,
both of which can influence which speeds up the process
its character. It is sometimes of turning the alcohol vapor
argued that soft, peaty water, back into liquid. This may
such as that used in distilling give a “cleaner” spirit than
on Islay, makes for heavier if the condensing process
whiskies, while the harder were slower. Water
water of Speyside makes for a temperature, as well as
lighter style of spirit. This is a Peat is a key ingredient availability, traditionally has
very broad generalization, of many Scottish and been a factor in the existence
however, for there are many Japanese whiskies. of the “silent season”—the
other factors to consider, such as the period when distilleries close down for
size and shape of stills and the manner a spell during the hottest and driest
in which they are run. summer months.
The limestone that dominates the Once distillation is complete, water
principal whiskey-producing states of remains important, since most whiskey
the US is rich in calcium, magnesium, is reduced to its optimum maturation
and phosphate, and the hard water of strength prior to filling into casks.
Kentucky, for example, helps to Deionized water is also usually used
promote efficient enzyme action during to reduce the spirit to bottling strength
the mashing stage of production. The after maturation is complete.
The Scottish Highlands provide an
abundance of water from mountain
springs and streams.
ingredients 23
peat
Peat is vegetable matter decomposed
by water and partially carbonized by
chemical change over thousands of
years. It is usually found in wetland
areas. The use of peat during the
kilning stage of malt production tends
to be limited largely to Scotland,
Japan, and occasionally Ireland.
Peat is added to the kiln fire to
provide what is known as “peat
reek” in order to promote phenolic
characteristics. The influence of
peat is most apparent in the single
malt whiskies of Islay.
The location of the peat used in Maple wood is burned at Jack Daniel’s Distillery to
malting is significant, with peat create maple charcoal, which is used for filtering
produced from grass roots or sphagnum the Tennessee whiskey produced there.
moss differing in character from that absorbing peaty characteristics as it
which has developed from bog myrtle— passes. This is particularly the case on
the latter produces a sweet, citric aroma Islay, where up to 25 percent of the
when burned. It is sometimes argued island’s surface area is covered with peat.
that using peat which includes heather Indeed, the peatiness of the process
in its make up may add a “heathery” water may influence the profile of the
note to the whisky. Peat harvested whisky produced even if the level of
close to the coast will be looser in peating in its malt is comparatively low.
composition than that further inland,
due to the greater amount of sand it wood
contains. It will also possess more salty, With the exception of the type of
maritime aromas and flavors. grain used for distillation, the most
In the days before centralized, significant factor that influences the
commercial maltings were a common character of the whiskey we drink is
feature of the industry, most distilleries the manner in which it is matured.
cut their own peat or bought it from In effect, the wood in which
local suppliers to use in on- whiskey is aged is one
site kilns. It was said that of the ingredients of
the character of peat could whiskeymaking (see p30) .
differ significantly from However, in the case
distillery to distillery, even of officially designated
within one comparatively Tennessee whiskey, wood
small island such as Islay. plays a vital part prior to
Formerly cut manually, the process of filling the
peat is almost invariably spirit into barrels. Central
now harvested by machine. American white oak is to the designation is the
At one time, it was also used used for the barrels at Lincoln County Process
Jack Daniel’s Distillery.
as fuel to fire the stills of (see p191) in which new-
rural Scottish and Irish distilleries, but make spirit is filtered through tanks
now its use is restricted to kilning. filled with up to 12 ft (4 meters) of
In addition to its malting role, peat maple charcoal. The process takes four
may be an influence on whisky because days and removes many of the more
the water used during production has dominant congeners, as well as adding
previously flowed through peat, a slightly sweet note to the spirit.
production
Despite the variety of grains used and techniques employed, whiskey-
making the world over is remarkably similar. Its principal stages can
be boiled down to malting, mashing, fermenting, and distilling.
malting
This is the first stage of the malt whisky
distillation process in Scotland, where
only malted barley may be used.
In many other countries, whiskey is
produced using a variety of grains that
are not malted. However, a percentage
of malted barley is always used in
their production in order to promote
efficient fermentation. Not many distilleries still use old-fashioned
The process of malting breaks down “rake and plow” mash tuns, such as this one;
most now use stainless-steel Lauter tuns.
cell walls within the grains and activates
enzymes which will convert the starch will use malt with a phenolic level in
into sugar during the “mashing” stage. excess of 50ppm. Once dried, the malt
During malting, the grains are is ground in a mill to produce a rough
germinated by steeping in water and “grist,” after which the process of
being spread onto a concrete floor. The mashing can begin.
grains then begin to sprout. Before they Today, only a handful of distilleries
get the chance to grow too much, the still malt their own barley, with the vast
germination is stopped by drying the majority buying in malt prepared to
“green malt” in a kiln with hot air. their specification by commercial
Sometimes peat is burned during maltsters in large, automated plants.
kilning to add smoky flavors to the Although such facilities were developed
whisky. The quantity of peat used will in Scotland only from the 1970s
vary, depending on whether the whisky onward, commercial maltings have
is to be heavily or lightly peated. been used in the US, Canada,
Phenol levels of peating are Ireland, and other European countries
measured in parts per million (ppm). since the early 20th century.
Many Speyside distilleries use malt
peated to just one or two ppm, while mashing
the most heavily peated Islay whiskies During mashing, the grist is mixed with
Mash tuns are used to mix grist (ground malt) with
hot water in a large vessel known as a
warm water to make worts; an inspection window mash tun. This is a circular, metal
(below right) is used to monitor the process. container, and since the 1960s, many
the mash at around 167ºF (75ºC) and
On a traditional maltings floor, such as this one at
Balvenie, the grain is turned by hand to aerate it
the remaining sugars in the wort are
and so promote an even rate of germination.
drained off. To ensure there are no
distilleries have adopted the “Lauter” useable sugars left in the mix, a third
tun. It is made from stainless steel, and water, called “sparge,” is then sprayed
has revolving arms to gently stir the mash. on, at around 185ºF (85ºC). This is then
The starch in the grains is converted transferred to a tank to be used as the
into a variety of sugars by enzymes first water of the next mash.
within the grains, and the sugar goes Modern Lauter tuns continually
into solution in the hot water, to be spray water onto the bed of grist after
drained off through the base of the the first water has been drained off.
mash tun. This liquor is called “wort.” This is more efficient in extracting
The husks of the malt create a “bed” sugars, permits faster drainage, and
in the bottom of the mash tun, through creates clearer wort, with fewer solid
which the sugary wort can drain. particles. Clear wort allows for a greater
Traditionally, three waters, or range of flavors to be developed during
“extractions,” were used for mashing the fermentation process.
in Scottish distilleries. The first water— The husks and other solids remaining
which is, in fact, the third water from in the mash tun are known as “draff,”
the previous mash—is heated to 145– and are removed and, as they are rich
7ºF (63–4ºC), then mixed with the grist. in protein, are converted into cattle
The temperature is crucial: if it is too food. The wort passes through a heat
hot, it will kill the enzymes; and if it is exchanger to reduce its temperature to
too cool, extraction from the malt will below 68ºF (20ºC), which is necessary
be limited. This liquid is drained off, in order to prevent the yeast being killed
then the second water is sprayed onto off immediately during fermentation.
Where nonmalted grain, such
as corn, is used in distillation,
it is crushed in a mill and
“cooked” in a cylindrical tank
or pressure cooker to break
down the cellulose walls and
allow the starch within to
absorb water during mashing.
The starch then gelatinizes,
enabling the grain’s enzymes
to convert the starch into sugar.
Traditional wooden washbacks are still in use

in many Scottish and Japanese distilleries. In
them, the wort is fermented to create wash.
producing a cleaner, more complex

spirit. By the time fermentation is
complete, the wash contains between
six and eight percent alcohol, its
acidity has increased, and around
80 percent of the solids in the wash
have been converted into alcohol,
carbon dioxide, and new yeast cells.
The remaining solids pass over with
the wash into the wash still.
In many US distilleries a “sour
The sight of smoke plumes from a distillery is now mash” process takes place during
a rarity, being restricted only to those sites that fermentation. An amount of residue
still use kilns to malt their own barley.
from the still, known as “backset” or
“stillage,” is pumped back into the
fermentation fermenter in order to maintain the
From the heat exchanger, the wort is desired level of acidity. This helps to
pumped into a number of fermenters, control the level of natural bacteria.
or “washbacks” as they are known in
Scotland. Traditionally they are made distillation
of Oregon pine or larch wood, but are The process of distillation takes place
now often constructed of stainless steel. in pot stills or continuous stills. In
As the wort enters the fermenter, both cases the principle is the same.
a measured amount of yeast is added. Alcohol boils at a lower temperature
Yeasts survive for years in a dormant than water, so when the wash is heated,
state, but in the presence of sugars, alcohol vapors rise up from the still first
warmth, moisture, and an absence of to be condensed back into liquid ready
air, they multiply at an astonishing rate. for collection.
The yeast consumes the sugars in the
wort, and converts them into alcohol continuous distillation
and carbon dioxide. At this point, the Virtually all bourbon, rye, Tennessee,
wort becomes what is known as “wash.” and Canadian whiskey, along with grain
The reaction during fermentation is spirit for Scotch whisky blending, is
violent, with the temperature increasing produced using a method of continuous
to around 95ºF (35ºC). The wash distillation. Irish distillers use both pot
froths dramatically, and mechanical stills and continuous stills. Grain spirit,
“switchers” revolve over the surface, usually from corn, is produced in
breaking the foam and preventing the
wash from overflowing. The increasing
temperature and rising alcohol level
causes the yeast multiplication to slow
down after some 12 hours. By this
stage, there will be a considerable
increase in the amount of bacteria
present, principally lactobacillus.
There follows a period of bacterial
fermentation, which is important for
the development of flavor compounds
and the degree of acidity in the wash.
Longer fermentations produce a more “Man doors” are a feature of pot stills. They can
acidic wash, which reacts beneficially be opened up to inspect and clean the insides
with the copper in the wash still, between distillation batches.
production 27
The Crucial role of Copper

Pot stills are made from copper, as it
is an excellent conductor of heat, and is
malleable and therefore comparatively easy
to fabricate into the many and varied shapes
of pot stills. With the exception of the output
of the Canadian Mist Distillery (see p223),
which employs stainless-steel distilling
equipment, all whiskies produced in
continuous stills are also exposed to
copper during the whiskeymaking process.
It was not until the early 1980s that
scientists began to fully comprehend just
how important copper was in the creation
of fine spirits. It acts as a catalyst in
In tall stills, such as these at Glenmorangie, removing foul-smelling, highly volatile sulfur
the vapor has to climb a greater height, and compounds, and also assists in the creation
consequently more falls back as “reflux.” of desirable fragrant, fruity notes, which are
continuous stills, while what is termed known as “esters.”
The more contact the spirit has with
Irish “pure pot still whiskey” is made in copper, the lighter and purer it will be. When
pot stills from a mix of both malted and the alcohol vapor reaches the head of the
raw barley (see p168). still, the still’s design and the manner in
Although there are technical which it is operated can either encourage
the vapor to condense quickly, or to trickle
differences between the many back down into the body of the still and be
continuous stills in use around the re-distilled. This is known as “reflux,” and
world, they all work on the same basis, makes for greater copper contact and
and none are far removed from the therefore increased purity.
original Coffey still, patented in the
early 1830s by Irishman Aeneas
Coffey (see p172).
Compared to malt whiskey
distillation in pot stills, the
production of whiskey in a
continuous, column, or patent
still —as it is variously known—is
significantly closer to an industrial
process. The stills making grain
spirit are large, versatile, and
highly efficient, as they can work
continuously, whereas malt
whiskey distillation in pot stills
is a “batch” process, requiring
time-consuming cleaning
between each period of
production. A much greater
quantity of grain whiskey
can be distilled in any
given period, and the
Squat stills, such as these

from Midleton in Ireland,
allow more “congeners”
to remain in the final spirit,
as the degree of “reflux”
is limited.
Column stills consist of two

connected cylinders, a rectifier
and an analyzer: the rectifier
performs the initial distillation,
the analyzer the second.
unmalted grain which

is predominantly used is
significantly cheaper
than malted barley.
The continuous still
consists of two large,
connected, parallel
stainless-steel columns,
called the analyzer and
the rectifier. The fermented wash enters In North America, wash is referred to
at the top of the rectifier column, where as “beer,” and the first column of the
it is warmed by hot steam and is able continuous still is known as the “beer
to descend over a series of perforated still.” The second distillation takes
copper plates. These plates serve the place in what’s called a “doubler” or
purpose of holding back heavier “thumper” still, which is not dissimilar to
compounds, which flow from the a pot still. The beer or wash that enters
bottom of the still. the beer still contains solids, whereas in
The desirable volatile compounds are pot still distillation, the wash enters the
vaporized and pass over into the second still in clear liquid form.
column (the analyzer) at a strength of
between 10 and 20 percent ABV. Here pot still distillation
the vapors are cooled as they rise up the In this traditional method of distillation,
column, eventually condensing and the wash is pumped into the first still,
being collected in liquid form. It is called the “wash still,” and is brought
possible to distil spirit to a strength to the boil. The boiling liquid forms
of just below 95 percent ABV in a foam that climbs up the neck of
a column still. the still. The stillman then adjusts the
There are three basic shapes of pot still: plain
heat to make sure that the foam does
(or onion) stills tend to create heavier spirits than not reach the top of the still and carry
the lamp-glass and boil-ball stills. over into the condenser.
Plain still Lamp-glass still Boil-ball still

production 29
After a short while, the foam subsides “Cut points” vary from distillery to
and the operator can turn up the heat distillery, and the skill of the stillman
and drive off the spirit until the strength is to know when to start saving spirit
of the liquid left in the still (about half and when to stop. In some modern
of the volume it was charged with) is distilleries, however, cut points are
down to around two percent ABV. This computer controlled.
is called “pot ale” and, after evaporation, The spirit from both stills passes
can be used for cattle feed. through a brass box with a glass front
The vaporized spirit driven off called a “spirit safe.” Inside are glass
the stills must be condensed back into jars containing hydrometers to measure
liquid form, and this takes place in strength. The stillman manipulates
either modern “shell and tube” handles on top of the safe to fill these
condensers or in “worm tubs.” Shell jars and add water. When the spirit is
and tube condensers are tall copper impure it turns cloudy, but once it
drums filled with dozens of narrow- remains clear, he turns another handle
bore copper pipes through which and starts saving it. A similar operation
runs cold water. The spirit is performed when the feints
vapor enters the drum begin to flow, and the
and condenses on the cold stillman comes “off spirit.”
copper pipes. The worm tub This mix of pure spirit and
is a coiled copper pipe of impurities, or “congeners,”
diminishing diameter, set is different in every distillery,
in a deep vat of cold water and plays a vital role in
outside the still house. Until determining the character
the 1970s, all distilleries used of the whiskey produced.
worm tubs, but today only In a spirit safe, samples The still continues to be run
around a dozen Scottish from “the run” are taken until its contents are around
distilleries still employ them. and analyzed to check
the spirit’s level of purity.
0.1 percent ABV. This final
The liquid (condensed residue is called “spent lees,”
from the spirit produced by the wash and is run to waste.
still) is called “low wines.” It is pumped The product of the spirit still is called the
into a “low wines receiver” before “new make” or “clearic.” It is a perfectly
passing into the second “low wines” or clear liquid and around 70 percent ABV.
“spirit” still, along with the residue of Before it can be put into casks or barrels,
the previous distillation. The liquid is its strength must be reduced by dilluting
boiled in the same way as in the first it with water to achieve an ABV of
distillation, but with two significant around 63 or 64 percent, which is
differences. The first spirits to come considered the optimum strength to
off are known as “foreshots.” They are begin the maturation stage.
high in strength (around 75–80 percent A spirit safe is essential for monitoring “the run”
ABV), pungent, and impure, and are and deciding on the dividing line between the
directed to a separate receiver tank. foreshots, the middle cut, and aftershots.
The later spirits, known as the
“aftershots” or “feints,” are also
unpleasant in aroma and flavor, and
go into the same receiver tank as the
foreshots. Both are added to the next
batch of low wines for redistillation.
Only the “middle cut” of the run
from the spirit still is directed to
the “intermediate spirit receiver,”
to be filled into casks or barrels.
maturation
The influence of maturation in the creation of good whiskey cannot
be overemphasized. Indeed, some authorities consider that whiskey
acquires up to 80 percent of its final character in the cask. The cask
cannot make bad whiskey good, but it can make a good whiskey great.
The importance European Oak

of oak The most commonly-
Oak has long been used form of European
the wood of choice for oak, especially in
whiskey maturation, and Scotland, comes from
it is specified in the legal Spain, principally
definitions of many because of Britain’s long
whiskies around the association with shipping
world. The advantages sherry from Spain in
of oak are that it is able casks and bottling it in
to impart beneficial The Glenfiddich Distillery uses a the UK. The desirability
flavors and aromas to the mixture of European oak and ex- of “sherry wood” for the
contents of the cask, and bourbon American oak barrels to
mature its range of whiskies.
maturation of whiskey is
its tight grain prevents recorded as long ago as
leakage while its pores allow the the 1860s, but as the popularity of
contents to breathe. It is also a very sherry declined during the 1970s, fewer
durable wood, and may be bent when such casks were available. The problem
heated without cracking. was compounded in 1983 when
Whiskey is usually matured in casks shipping sherry in bulk was banned
constructed either of European oak by the European Commission.
(Quercus robur) or, more commonly, Today, whiskey companies requiring
American white oak (Quercus alba), Spanish casks sometimes buy their
which has largely superseded its wood while it is still growing (“on the
European form. American oak is more tree,” as it is known), and have it staved
widely available, and therefore and coopered in Spain. They must then
considerably cheaper. Today, the make arrangements with Spanish
Scotch whisky industry uses around bodegas to have casks “seasoned”
95 percent American white oak. with sherry before importing them.
American White Oak

The wide availability of casks made
from American white oak has its origins
in a deal brokered between the US
coopers’ unions and the country’s
distillers in the mid-1930s. The terms
of the agreement were that whiskey
must be filled into new casks if it was
to be designated as bourbon or rye.
The result of this was that large
Spanish sherry casks are made of European oak, numbers of used American white
which is richer in tannins than American oak and oak barrels became available in
able to impart more complexity to the whiskey. the years after World War II.
Bourbon is matured in barrels (which Penderyn Distillery in Wales uses top-quality
hold around 44 gallons, or 200 liters). American oak to mature its whiskey, but, to add
complexity, finishes it off in Madeira casks.
Some are shipped from the US intact as
“American Standard Barrels,” but most being filled three or four times
are broken down into their staves and (depending upon how long it
arrive in bundles called shooks. held whiskey during each filling), the
In Scotland they are reassembled in cask is considered to be exhausted,
a slightly larger, 55-gallon (250-liter) and is either discarded by the whiskey
format called a re-made hogshead. industry or “rejuvenated.”
Rejuvenation involves scraping
the use of old casks out the inside walls of the cask, and
With the exception of whiskey made in scorching the wood again—a process
the US, very little spirit is filled into new called “de-char/re-char” in American
casks. Most casks have previously casks. This serves to reactivate the layer
contained other spirits or wine. Whiskey of wood immediately beneath the
matures better in a used cask, and the charred walls of the cask, but it does
first contents “seasons” the wood by
removing some of its most obvious A Matter of Age
woody flavors, while adding its own Many legal designations of whiskey around
desirable traces of spirit or wine. the world specify a minimum maturation
In Scotland, the first time a cask period. In Scotland, Ireland, and Canada,
this is three years, and in the case of
is filled with spirit, it is known as a bourbon and rye in the US, two. Scotch
“first-fill,” and thereafter it is referred to whiskies may be used for blending purposes
as a “refill” cask. The more often it is at quite young ages, but very little single malt
refilled, the less impact the wood will is bottled at less than eight years of age.
US whiskies tend to be released at much
have upon its contents. It will impart
younger ages, but the higher temperatures
less color and flavor, and extract fewer that they experience allow them to mature
undesirable flavors from the spirit. After quicker. Whiskey also matures at different
rates depending on the cask in which it has
New American white oak is charred been filled, where it has been stored, and on
prior to use, the char acting as a the character of the spirit itself. Some lighter
purifier and removing unwanted bodied, less complex whiskies may reach
compounds. their optimum level of maturity several years
sooner than “bigger,” more complex spirits.
There is a common belief that the older the
whiskey, the better it must be, but age does
not necessarily guarantee quality. If left in a
cask for too long, the wood can turn against
the spirit, giving it sour and “woody” notes.
agent, removing “immature”

which oak is best?
characteristics and extracting
Casks made from European oak and American compounds from the new spirit,
white oak affect their contents in significantly principally sulfur-based molecules.
different ways. American white oak casks are
higher in vanillin (giving sweet toffee and
The first time casks are filled with
coconut notes to the spirit); European oak is new make whiskey, residues of the
higher in tannins (giving fruity, complex, and previous filling will be present in the
astringent notes). Also, European casks are walls of the cask. These leech out into
usually twice the size of American white oak
the maturing whiskey, adding character
casks and mature their contents more
slowly. The smaller the cask, the greater the to the spirit. Gradually, the color
surface area exposed to the spirit, and the also changes, principally due to
more rapid the rate of maturation. tannins in the wood. European oak
is more tannic than American white
not make the cask as good as new. oak, and so imbues its contents with
A rejuvenated cask will not mature its a deeper hue. The degree of color
contents in the same way as a first-fill, becomes progressively lighter, the
and most of the whiskies matured in more times the cask has been filled.
such casks are used for blending. Oak wood is semiporous, which
allows the contents of an oak cask to
The importance “breathe” and interact with the air
of heat outside. This leads to oxidation, which
In order to be bent into a barrel-shape, removes harshness, increases fruitiness,
the staves must be heated, and that and enhances complexity. Over the
heating process alters the chemical years, a cask usually loses both volume
structure of the inside surface of the and strength—volume loss being known
cask. Indeed, without heating, the spirit in Scotland as “the angels’ share.”
will not mature, but merely acquire a
“green,” woody note. European casks Storing the Spirit
are “toasted” to bend them into shape, The interaction between the wood and
while the carbon char on American the atmosphere is the least understood
white oak casks acts as a purifying aspect of maturation. It is also the one
In the cooperage of Balvenie Distillery, casks are
most affected by the microclimate of
constructed from the staves of former bourbon the warehouse in which the cask is
barrels, shipped over from the US. placed during maturation.
maturation 33
The Finishing Touch

Variously known as “wine finishing,” “cask
finishing,” “double maturation,” or even
“additional cask evolution,” this is the
process by which a whiskey that has been
matured in one type of cask—usually a refill
—is re-racked into another, usually a first-fill
or wine-treated cask, for the final months or
years of its maturation. The whiskey takes on
additional layers of aromas and flavors, and
many distillers now employ finishing as a
means of extending their product range.
on their ends on wooden pallets, up

to six high. This facilitates handling
by forklift trucks.
Compared to most modern facilities,
dunnage warehouses have fewer
temperature variations, as their heavy
Racked warehouses, such as this one at Woodford construction insulates them better.
Reserve in the US, allow barrels of whiskey to be But, whatever the type of warehouse,
stored on their sides on multistory racks.
there are also differences between casks
It follows that both the type and stored close to the ground, where it
location of warehouses in which tends to be cooler, and those stored
casks are stored are significant in close to the roof, where the warmth
terms of whiskey maturation. During increases the pace of maturation.
maturation there is evaporation of To ensure consistency, casks from
ethanol and water, and the ingress different parts of a warehouse are
of oxygen through the cask. The often vatted together prior to bottling.
amount of bulk loss depends upon US distillers tend to use either brick
temperature and humidity levels, or corrugated metal, racked warehouses.
as does the speed of maturation. The latter are usually sited on exposed
In high temperatures spirit expands, ground, which allows them to utilize
causing it to extract flavors from the seasonal differences of temperature
the wood at a comparatively fast rate. and humidity to the best effect.
In damp warehouses the amount of
liquid in the cask remains high, while
the alcoholic strength declines. In
dry warehouses the opposite occurs.
In Scotland, traditional dunnage
warehouses—usually constructed of
stone, with an earth or cinder floor—
hold casks stacked three high on
wooden runners. Due to constraints
of space, large, multistory warehouses
have been constructed in more recent
times. They are fitted out with steel
racks to hold casks, up to 12 rows high,
closely packed together. For ease of
operation, palletization has also been
introduced in many warehouses. In a palletized warehouse, casks are stored in an
Here casks are stacked not on their upright position, rather than on their sides, so that
sides, as tradition has dictated, but several at a time can be moved by forklift trucks.
types of whiskey
As whiskey making has developed over time and in different parts of
the world, so distinct styles have emerged. These regional varieties are
often dictated by the most readily available grains, but they are also
based on climatic conditions and traditions too.
Scotch Whisky number of different distilleries, and

To be called Scotch whisky, a spirit must any age statement given on the bottle
conform to the standards of the Scotch must refer to the youngest whisky in
Whisky Order of 1990 (UK), which the blend (see p116).
states that it must be distilled at a
Scottish distillery from water and malted Blended Malt Whiskey
barley, to which only other whole grains Previously known as “vatted malts,”
may be added. It has to be processed at blended malts consist of two or more
that distillery into a mash, fermented single malt whiskies mixed together.
only by the addition of yeast, and As with blended whiskies, any age
distilled to an alcoholic strength of less statement given has to refer to the
than 94.8 percent ABV to retain the youngest whisky in the blend.
flavor of the raw ingredients used.
It also has to be matured in Scotland in Grain Whiskey
oak casks for no less than three years. It Grain whiskey may contain unmalted
should not contain any added substance barley or other malted or unmalted
other than water and caramel coloring, grains, such as wheat and corn, and is
and may not be bottled at less than generally distilled in a continuous still.
40 percent ABV. Most grain whiskey is used for blending.
However, single grain Scotch whisky is
Scotch Malt Whisky sometimes bottled, and is the product
Malt whisky is distilled from 100 of just one distillery (see p110).
percent malted barley and is usually
distilled in a pot still. Single malt Irish Whiskey
Scotch whisky is the product of just Irish distillers use both pot and column
one distillery (see p45). stills, producing grain spirit, usually
from corn, in the column stills, while
Blended Scotch Whisky what is termed Irish “pure pot still
Blended Scotch whisky is a mixture whiskey” is traditionally made in pot
of single malt whisky and grain whisky. stills from a mixture of both malted and
The constituent whiskies are from a raw barley. Typically 40–50 percent of
Single Malt Blended Blended Single Grain Single Malt Pot Still Irish Blended Irish
Scotch Scotch Malt Whiskey Irish Whiskey Whiskey Whiskey
types of whiskey 35
the mash bill is malted barley, though that does not have to be aged in new
this isn’t a legal requirement (see p168). charred oak barrels, and no minimum
Traditionally, Irish whiskey is triple- maturation period is specified (see p186).
distilled. Blended Irish whiskies are
made from a mixture of pot and column Canadian Whiskey
still spirits. Like Scotch, Irish whiskey Virtually all Canadian whiskey is distilled
must be distilled and matured in the in column stills, and in most cases, rye is
country of origin for at least three years.blended with a comparatively neutral
base spirit—sometimes with the
Bourbon Whiskey addition of bourbon-type whiskey and
By law, bourbon must be produced corn whiskey. Unlike US bourbon and
from a mash of not less than 51 percent rye, pre-used casks may be employed
corn grain, and is usually made from for maturation. As with Scotch
between 70 and 90 percent corn, with and Irish, Canadian whiskey must be
some barley malt plus rye and/or wheat matured for a minimum of three years.
in the mash bill. Legally, bourbon has to It is permissible to add small amounts
be matured in new, charred, white oak of fruit or alcohols such as sherry to
barrels for at least two years (see p186). the whiskey (see pp222 & 225).
Tennessee Whiskey Japanese Whiskey

Essentially bourbon-style spirits, Japanese distillers take Scotland as their
Tennessee whiskies do, however, model, distilling malt whiskey in pot stills
undergo a distinctive filtration through and grain whiskey in column stills. As
sugar maple charcoal. This is known as with Scotch, blended Japanese whiskey is
the Lincoln County Process (see p191). a mixture of both malt and grain spirit,
often containing a percentage of
Rye Whiskey imported Scotch malt whisky (see p241).
Legally, rye whiskey has to be made
from a mash of not less than 51 percent Indian Whiskey
rye and, as with bourbon, virgin Much of the “whiskey” produced in
charred oak barrels are required for India would not qualify as whiskey
maturation. To be called “straight rye” elsewhere. Most Indian whiskey is ENA
it must be matured for at least two (extra neutral alcohol) whiskey,
years (see p186). produced in continuous stills using
buckwheat, rice, millet, or molasses, and
Corn Whiskey generally sold unaged. A number of
Corn whiskey is distilled from a Indian single malts and blended malts
fermented mash of not less than 80 are also produced, and these tend to
percent corn at less than 80 percent conform to classifications widely used
ABV. It is the one American whiskey in the European Union (see p276).
Bourbon Tennessee Rye Corn Canadian Japanese Indian

Whiskey Whiskey Whiskey Whiskey Whiskey Single Malt Single Malt
blending and bottling

There remains an unwarranted degree of snobbishness regarding
blended whiskies. Too often they are perceived as the poor relations of
single malts, yet a well made blend is at least their equal. And remember,
over 90 percent of all Scotch consumed is blended whiskey.
If blends did not sell in such large Blending involves contending with
quantities, many of the distilleries many variables, including practical
producing highly-prized single malts changes at distilleries, which might
would surely have fallen silent long ago. affect the spirit being produced and
Sam Bronfman, head of the former the overall stock position. It may be
Canadian distilling giant, Seagram, necessary to substitute some whiskies
famously declared, “distilling is a with others from the same stylistic
science, blending is an art,” and today’s “family” from time to time. The
practitioners of the “art” of combining blender also has to take into account
malt and grain spirit strive to maintain the different types and condition of
consistency in an ever-changing whiskey casks in which the various whiskies
world. Consistency and harmony are at are maturing, along with the manner
the core of all good blending. It is no and location in which they are stored.
use creating the finest blended whiskey Modern “wood management
in the world today if the blender is programs,” which are designed
unable to reproduce it tomorrow. to monitor closely the casks in use by
the whiskey industry, give the blender
WORLD BLENDING greater confidence in the quality and
In the US, blends are produced using likely character of component whiskies
bourbon, rye, or other “heavy” styles of than used to be the case, and the
spirit, along with grain whiskey or neutral increased consistency of new make
grain spirit. Unlike in Scotland, US distillers
spirit being produced also makes the
are allowed to add up to 2.5 percent of
sherry or wine to help enhance the character task a little easier.
of the blend. Canadian blenders may legally
mix the components of their blends prior The Nose
to filling into cask for maturation. Irish and The blender’s principal tool is the nose,
Japanese blenders face the problem of a
comparatively small malt base with which and only rarely are constituent whiskies
to work, and the Japanese have, for many actually tasted. The reason for this is
years, solved this by importing Scotch malt that while humans have some 9,000
whisky to give greater variety to their blends. taste buds, our olfactory receptors
Nosing whiskies at the number 50 to 100 million. Smell is
Seagrams in the 1970s undoubtedly the most important sense
when it comes to analyzing whiskey.
At one time, blenders would work
with as many as 40 malts for any one
blend, but today that number has been
reduced to between a dozen and 25 in
most cases. Of course, the quality of a
blend does not depend on the number
of malts in its composition. It need
not even depend on the percentage
of malt in its make-up, though, as a
general rule, the higher the percentage
of malt in a blend, the better its flavor. Blending whiskey is all about balance—combining
Most of our best-known blended whiskies, often with markedly different characters,
into a harmonious ensemble.
whiskies will have a malt content of
between 30 and 40 percent. with no money changing hands. It
When producing a blended whiskey, is only a very few large distillers that
the blender will have to take into are sufficiently well resourced to
account not only the style of whiskey, be self-sufficient in terms of both
but also economic factors. If developing malt and grain whiskies.
a blend for a specific “price point,” The blender will usually utilize a
proportions of the component whiskies number of different grain whiskies to
will be adjusted accordingly. As a basic help achieve harmony in the blend, and
rule, the more malt in a none of today’s generation
blend and the older the of blenders regard grain
whiskies it contains, the whiskey as merely a cheap
higher its price. A “deluxe” “filler” to bulk out the
blend will normally carry blend, as was sometimes
an age statement, usually the case in days gone by.
12 years or more, and can Grains are recognized as
be expected to have a crucially important in
higher malt content than In assessing whiskies, the drawing together the
a “standard” blend. nose is the blender’s most various malts and allowing
valuable tool.
Stylistically, there has their best qualities to shine.
been a gradual shift from full-bodied,
peaty blends toward lighter-bodied the Components
whiskies such as Cutty Sark (see p127) of a Blend
and J&B (see p137). The blender may Blenders tend to categorize the
use a higher proportion of lighter malts, component malts in their blends as
perhaps from Speyside, in order to “packers,” “core malts,” and “top
create such a blend, and may also dressing.” The “packers” may make
reduce the percentage of malt used and up half the malt content of the blend
increase the amount of grain spirit. and add bulk to it. They are chosen to
Most blenders are employed by combine well with the other malts, but
comparatively large companies which without adding a great deal in terms
own several distilleries. For the sake of of final flavor. “Core malts” are often
economics and availability, they are from distilleries owned by the blender’s
expected to use sizeable amounts of own company, and tend to define the
their “house” malts in the blends they overall character of the finished blend.
create. However, they will also acquire “Top dressing” malts are high-quality
malts from other companies, usually by whiskies that are used for adding depth
way of “reciprocal trading” of stocks, and “top notes” to the mix.
A traditional Scotch vats. Whyte & Mackay

blend is normally take this a stage further,
constructed around a mix however, by maturing
of high-quality Speyside their component malts in
malts, which may make wood for several months
up approximately 50 before blending them
percent of the malt total. with the grain whisky.
Some 10 percent of They then marry the
Highland and Islay malts resultant blend for a
are added to “dry out” further period before
the blend and add bottling.
complexity, though the The blender is not
powerful Islays rarely Whyte & Mackay take the art able to nose every
contribute more than two of blending very seriously, component cask destined
marrying their malts before
percent of the malt total mixing with the grain, then
for a blend, but in most
or their effect is too marrying all prior to bottling. cases, casks are nosed
dominant. The remaining prior to dumping by a
40 percent of the malt component are member of the company’s “nosing
“packers.” These are decent malts, but panel,” who will also assess each
have a low aromatic intensity—the vatting. Samples of the whiskies will
“supporting cast” of the malt world. also undergo lab tests to ensure they
In most instances, the selected casks are “fit for purpose.”
of malt and grain whisky are “dumped”
into a stainless-steel trough at the independent
blending plant in accordance with the BOTTLings
blend recipe. From there, they are Today, most whiskey, whether malt or
transferred to a large blending vat, blended, is bottled by its producers,
usually of around 5,500 gallons (25,000 in what are usually known as “house”
liters), for thorough mixing. bottlings. However, this practice is
Demineralized water is then added to
reduce the blend to bottling strength, THE BLENDER’S ART
generally 40 or 43 percent ABV. “I compare a blender to a conductor or a
“Rough filtration” to remove particles musical arranger. The arranger will use his
of char from the casks is followed, in stringed instruments for melody, and the
blender will use certain flavors such as
most cases, by chill-filtration, during
fruity, floral, nutty, malty, fragrant, honey,
which the temperature of the spirit is for his theme. The arranger will use the
reduced to around 32ºF (0ºC) and woodwind section for his harmonies, and
passed through a fine filter. This the blender’s harmonies will be flavors such
practice removes compounds in the as leafy, grassy, spicy. The arranger also has
his brass section and percussion to complete
whisky which might cause it to go the composition. This could be compared to
slightly dull or cloudy when ice or the blender’s flavors such as peaty,
water is added. Small quantities smoky, and medicinal. Each
of spirit caramel are sometimes added arranger has in his own mind what
his ear will hear as the finished
to ensure consistency of color from one symphony, so it is with the
batch of whisky to another. blender as to how his finished
Some companies will initially blend blend will impart aroma and
all their malts together and then add flavor.”
Retired Chivas
their blended grains. A number master blender
of firms maintain the old practice of Jimmy Laing
“marrying” their blends for a number
of months prior to bottling, either in Chivas Regal
18-Year-Old Blend
well-used, inert casks or stainless-steel
blending and bottling 39
comparatively new. For a long time, it

classic cocktails
was principally independent bottling
companies, such as Gordon &
MacPhail in Elgin (see p52) and
Cadenhead in Campbeltown, that
undertook the bottlings of malt—
sometimes on behalf of distillers, but
more usually on their own initiative.
With the renaissance of malt whisky
in the past two decades, the number
of independent bottlers has grown, The purists may shake their heads in dismay,
and now includes well known names but let them—a great whiskey cocktail is a
joy and a revelation as new layers of flavor
such as Adelphi, Duncan Taylor, in your favorite dram are there to be
Signatory, and the Scotch Malt discovered, complemented by the other
Whisky Society, in addition to long- ingredients. You probably won’t use your
established companies like Hart Bros finest single malt, but don’t economize
on ingredients. A number of well-known
and Douglas Laing of Glasgow. brands and whiskey styles lend themselves
One effect of this development is admirably to the cocktails we’ve selected,
that, with increasing competition and their recipes can be found in the section
among “independents” and a tendency on Whiskey Nations, close to the whiskies
that have been recommended for use:
for large distillers to bottle more of their
own malt themselves, good casks of Blue Blazer (see p130)
malt whisky have become increasingly Buffalo and Ginger (see p189)
scarce and hard to purchase. This has Canada Day Cocktail (see p224)
led bottlers like Signatory and Ian Flying Scotsman (see p141)
Macleod Distillers Ltd. to acquire their Game Bird (see p132)
own distilleries—Edradour (see p82) Irish Coffee (see p161)
and Glengoyne (see p84), respectively— Ladies (see p233)
in order to secure supplies for their own Maker’s Mark Bourbon
Manhattan (see p198)
use and for reciprocal trading.
Maple Leaf (see p231)
In order to differentiate their Mint Julep (see p201)
expressions from those of the major Rabbie Burns (see p150)
distillers and offer consumers a greater Rob Roy (see p151)
degree of choice, a number of Turkey Collins (see p199)
independents have opted to bottle Williamstown (see p165)
“single cask” whiskies, taken, as the
name, implies, from just one cask. are marketed at ages significantly
These are usually individually greater than is commonly the case.
numbered and are often bottled at A few whisky producers object
natural cask strength. to independent bottlers using their
Some bottlers also make a virtue of distillery names, reckoning that they
not chill-filtering their whiskies, as the have insufficient control over the
process removes compounds produced quality of the whisky. In response, some
during distillation or extracted from the independents bottle whiskies with code
cask during maturation, and in so doing numbers rather than names, along with
also removes some body and flavor. In information that hints at their origins.
order to emphasize the “natural” This practice was first adopted by
credentials of their product, the Scotch Malt Whisky Society of
independents also tend to avoid the Edinburgh, which was set up in 1983
addition of caramel. Many of the to offer cask strength, single cask malts
whiskies bottled by independents come at a time when the notion of such
from silent or demolished distilleries or “pure” bottlings was still rare.
Nosing and tasting

There is an enduring school of thought that considers that whiskey
should only be drunk neat. It tends to prevail more in Scotland than
elsewhere, but still has the status of received wisdom. In fact, a modest
amount of pure still water is beneficial.
Water served at room probably come from

temperature can help to a European oak cask,
tease out aromas and formerly used to hold
flavors that might sherry. A pale, straw-
otherwise remain hidden colored whiskey is likely
in the whiskey. But, aside to have been matured in
from adding water, just an American white oak
how should whiskey be cask that previously held
drunk? The short answer is bourbon. Look at the
any way you choose. You “legs” of the whiskey as
paid for it, so you can Nosing is the best way to evaluate it rolls down the side of
consume it however you whiskey, as our sense of smell is the glass. A well aged,
greater than our sense of taste.
wish. One of the full-bodied whiskey will
principal growth markets have “longer” legs than
for Scotch whisky is a younger, light-bodied
China, where a fashion style of spirit.
has developed for drinking A vocabulary of eight
whisky with green tea. broad terms has been
Nonetheless, many developed to describe
connoisseurs consider an aromas: namely cereal,
expensive malt whiskey or fruity, floral, peaty, feinty,
small-batch bourbon to For distillers there are many sulfury, winey, and woody.
be spoiled by the addition checks and comparisons to However, for the
make beyond aroma and taste,
of anything but a small including the viscosity and color
untrained nose, this
amount of water. of the whiskey. part of the process may
It is important to serve be principally about
whiskey in a glass that will do it justice, evocation: for example, a whiff of worn
and for purposes of evaluation and leather that transports the sampler back
comparison a stemmed copita, or tulip- in time to childhood trips in an old car,
shaped glass which tapers toward the or the smell of seaweed and tarry ropes
top, is ideal. This serves to hold in the that evoke the memory of a harbor.
aromas, making it much easier to detect In terms of taste and what is
and analyze components by smell. termed “mouth-feel,” professionals
may use the adjectives sweet, sour,
color, nose, salty, bitter, warming, cooling, prickly,
palate, and finish viscous, and cloying. The “finish” is
Professional tasters usually evaluate the lingering flavor of the whiskey in
whiskey using four factors: color, nose, the mouth after it has been swallowed.
palate, and finish. The color of a Generally speaking, a long, lingering
whiskey should give clues to the type finish is a desirable feature, though
of cask in which it has been matured. some light-bodied whiskies benefit from
If it is a deep rich copper color, it has a finish that is short and crisp.
During a tasting lids are put on
top of the glasses to hold in the
aromas eminating from the whiskey.
After an initial nosing, it may pay to whiskey and food

take a small, preliminary sip of whiskey For many years it was widely held that
undiluted, in order to give a “baseline.” whiskey was too strong, assertive, and
Then add just a few drops of water complex a drink to accompany food. But an
increasing number of connoisseurs have
before nosing again. Follow up with a come to realize that this need not be the
second, comparative sip. It is also often case. Many whiskies can enhance meals,
instructive to leave the whiskey to stand provided careful choices are made.
for a few moments after your initial Consider the essential characteristics of a
specific whiskey and decide which dishes it
assessment. Sometimes it is surprising
is likely to complement. A fresh, light-bodied
just how much the sample changes Lowland single malt would probably pair
after exposure to the air. well with a fish dish, while a heavier, more
When diluting whiskey, try to be aromatic whiskey may be the perfect partner
consistent and dilute to the same degree. for beef or duck. Some of the lighter, fruitier
Japanese whiskies, such as Yamazaki, are
Comparisons can be made much more now being successfully paired with tuna and
accurately that way. Younger and salmon in sushi and sashimi dishes—often
lighter-bodied whiskies will usually being served slightly chilled. The secret to
stand up to less dilution than older and getting it right is in balancing the competing
flavors and not allowing either the food or
big-bodied spirits. Also, beware the the whiskey to dominate. A smoky, peaty, or
power of suggestion. If undertaking an peppery whiskey is ideal with oysters and
informal tasting session with friends, smoked fish, but contrasts such as “sweet
it is advisable to ask each sampler to and sour” may be equally effective. Chili
heat can be matched to sweetness, or an
write down his or her reactions before acidic whiskey can cut through a very sweet
discussing them. Smoking and wearing dish. The same acidic match will also serve
perfume should be to neutralize excessive fat or richness.
discouraged, and it A big, smoky, peaty, peppery whisky such as
is advisable not to Talisker, from Skye, is ideal with seafood like
eat garlic or chili oysters and smoked fish.
sauce before tasting!
The more you
practice, the keener
your skills of whiskey
assessment will become.
And, most importantly,
Whiskey tasting remember that the
glasses hold in the
aroma of the spirit
process should be
and also echo the about enjoyment and
shape of a pot still. experimentation.
Great whiskey
nations
whiskey nations 45
scotland
“A compound distilled spirit, being drawn on aromaticks;

and the Irish sort is particularly distinguished for its pleasant
and mild flavor. The Highland sort is somewhat hotter
and by corruption in Scottish they call it whisky.”
T
his early description of whisky distilled in a copper pot still. It was by
appeared in Dr. Johnson’s no means exclusive to the Highlands
famous dictionary of 1755. either—there were said to be 400 stills
The word came from the Gaelic uisge in Edinburgh by the late 18th century—
beatha (pronounced “oosh-key-ba”), though it started to move that way as the
meaning water of life, which the Scots Government sought to control whisky
had been making for years. With a long making through licenses and taxes.
tradition of brewing, they may have When Scotland and England were
discovered distilling by accident, while joined under the Act of Union in 1707,
boiling up some heather ale that had gone it was decided that excise duty would be
bad perhaps. Or maybe they learned it the main source of revenue. The English
from the Irish monks, who brought the authorities proceeded cautiously at first,
secret with them when they sailed to Iona waiting 10 years after the Jacobite Rising
with St. Columba in the 6th century. of 1715 before they increased the tax on
The first official mention of spirit malt, which provoked rioting on the
produced in Scotland came in an streets of Glasgow. With each subsequent
exchequer roll of 1494, and concerned move to raise revenue and stamp out
Friar John Cor, of Fife. There were soon smuggling, whisky became more and
references from across the country, as more the spirit of defiance.
distilling spread to wherever there was
access to grain, water, and fuel to fire the lowlands v highlands
stills. Whiskymaking developed on the In the Lowlands, distilling was part of the
farm as a seasonal activity, whenever early industrial revolution, as commercial
there was grain to spare after the harvest. distilleries grew in scale to provide whisky
Drunk neat and unaged, the whisky for the masses. Laws came in to increase
would have been extremely rough, hence the minimum size of the stills, presumably
the need to compound it with sugar, to make them more visible to the
herbs, and spices. Yet, it was definitely authorities, while taxation was so heavy
malt whisky, in the sense that it was that many distillers had to run their stills
flat out to make any profit at all. The
Granite, heather, and location all play their result, according to one contemporary,
part in creating the extraordinary diversity was a spirit suitable only for “the most
of Scottish malt whisky. vulgar and fire-loving palates.”
46 whiskey nations
Macallan Distillery began to

market its single malt in 1978; in
keeping with trends in the industry,
it now produces a variety of oak
finishes for its malts.
would be excused malt tax

and could use smaller stills
so long as they did not try
to export their whisky
below the “Highland
Line.” Inevitably, it
did seep southward as
demand grew. The licensed,
The Highlands were another world, tax-paying distillers were incensed and
a place untouched by revolutions in claimed that the production of moonshine
farming or the industrial world, where was 10 times that of legal whisky.
distilling remained a cottage industry. The crackdown that followed, as the
From a weak wash slowly distilled in Government tried to claw back its lost
relatively small stills, the Highlanders revenue and bring the Highlands to heal,
produced whisky that would have been only served to raise the price of illicit
infinitely superior to the industrial spirit whisky. A nefarious activity turned into
pumped out by the big Lowland a profitable business. In the early 1800s,
distillers. The production was on a very Glen Livet became a one-industry glen
small scale, just enough to provide for almost overnight, with plumes of smoke
family, neighbors, and any passing trade. rising from every isolated bothy.
The more successful farm distilleries
were often near droving routes, where chANGES IN THE LAW
cattle were taken from high pastures The odds seemed firmly in favor of
to market. the illicit whiskymakers rather than the
This national difference was recognized poorly paid excisemen who were drafted
by the Government in the Wash Act, of in from outside to stamp out smuggling.
1784. Henceforth, Highland distillers The Government’s initiatives
were often not rigorously enough
Glenfiddich Distillery, founded by William Grant thought through, and the offer of
in the 1880s, pioneered the sale of malt whisky
to an international market in the 1960s.
£5 to anyone who handed in a
piece of distilling equipment
Scotland 47
was quickly seized upon by the makers Malt distilleries became part of the food
of moonshine as a way to pay for chain supplying the blends. Aside from
replacement parts. But, with more friends of the distillery manager and a
troops, the authorities gradually began tiny band of devotees, the world never
to drive the underground industry got to hear about single malts. Malt
deeper into the Highlands. whisky had, of course, been made in
The real change came with the Excise Scotland for over three centuries before
Act of 1823, when illicit distillers were anyone had even thought of blending
offered the chance to go it, but in the modern,
straight by taking out a commercial sense it was
£10 license. Within two an invention of the 1960s.
years, the number of Glenfiddich led the way,
licensed distillers leaped selling its first bottle of
from 111 to 263. malt in England in 1965.
Smuggling continued for a Slowly, other distilleries,
time, but the balance now such as Macallan and
lay in favor of legal whisky, Glenmorangie, began to
and it was in the interests bottle their single malts,
of the majority of distillers until eventually the great
to create what became the white whale of the whisky
modern whisky industry. business—DCL (now
Suddenly, it was no The long-lived Black & White Diageo)—decided to create
longer an advantage to be brand once had Dalwhinnie their own “Classic Malts”
hidden in some desolate malt at the heart of its blend. in the late 1980s.
farmstead. It was far more Even then, there were
important to be near a market. As a plenty who thought the robust flavors of
result, the first building boom of new malt whisky would be too much for
distilleries was in Campbeltown, on anyone beyond the wilds of Scotland.
Kintyre, which was a short boat ride The thought that it would catch on among
up the Firth of Clyde to Glasgow. American bankers, Spanish students, and
By the second half of the 19th Taiwanese businessmen seemed absurd.
century, the “market” for malt whisky Yet, that’s exactly what happened.
had become the blenders, who were
often licensed grocers, such as the Chivas regional styles
brothers in Aberdeen. Using a base of
grain whisky made in a continuous still, If early distilleries developed a regional style,
the blenders mixed in malt whisky and it was because they were supplying the local
market. Whisky had somehow to reflect the
developed their own house style. With
environment. A distillery like Talisker, on Skye,
entrepreneurial flair, the advent of mass could have produced a gentle, understated
communication, and modern bottling malt like Glenkinchie, but few would have
lines, some of these early blends became bought it—the windswept people of the
internationally recognized brands. Western Isles needed something more robust.
It was the blenders who split Scotland into
the birth of single malts different styles of malt, to help standardize
The story of Scotch is often portrayed as their blends. This “regionality” endures today,
a conflict between blended whisky and even if there are plenty of exceptions.
malts, but the reality was rather different.
Skye’s Talisker Distillery produces
The blenders created the demand for
a strong tasting whisky that’s
Scotch, first in England and then abroad, peppery and smoky.
and it was this that inspired the late-
Victorian distillery boom that engulfed
the Highlands, particularly Speyside.
The big blenders often bought or built
their own distilleries as their brands
grew—though they were rarely, if ever,
self-sufficient in malt.
48 whiskey nations
Speyside
Whisky distilleries are scattered throughout the Highlands, but when
you reach Speyside, they come at you thick and fast, with around 50
distilleries. Some are set in open country, while others cluster together
in towns such as Rothes, Keith, and Dufftown.
There are several reasons why this region produce in the legalized way.” Doubtless
has become synonymous with whisky- this was true of the Highland spirit also.
making, and the first lies in the landscape Demand for smuggled Speyside
itself. In winter, traditionally the best whisky, particularly if it came with the
time for making whisky, Speyside seems magic word “Glenlivet” attached to it,
to close in on itself behind the granite only increased as the Government
bulk of the Cairngorms. Not so long ago, cracked down on illicit stills elsewhere.
isolated glens like Glenlivet would be cut
off for months. But there was plenty of The Industrial Age
fresh spring water, sufficient barley, and This romantic image endured long after
enough peat with which to malt the barley whiskymaking moved out of the farm
and fire the stills for whiskymaking. and became a serious industry after the
To these raw ingredients was added Excise Act of 1823 (see p47). In truth,
the incentive of defiance. After the however, it was the advent of the
Jacobite Rising of 1745 (see p45), the railroads that really led to Speyside’s
Catholic religion and wearing national distillery boom in the late 19th century.
dress such as the kilt were suppressed. Before then the region was seriously
It was, therefore, not surprising that the disadvantaged by its distance from the
Scots turned to whisky—and that meant major blenders. Those in Glasgow had
illicitly produced whisky that the a much closer source of malt whisky in
excisemen would find hard to trace. Campbeltown on the Kintyre Peninsula.
The fact that this home-produced spirit Eventually the quality and consistency
contributed not a penny in tax to prop of Speyside won the blenders over and,
up the regime “down south” made it since the 1890s, the region has provided
taste all the sweeter. As an Irishman the lion’s share of Scotch malt whisky.
once said of poteen, it is “superior in Glenlivet was one of the first Speyside distilleries
sweetness, salubriety, and gusto to all to forge a strong identity, and to this day its malts
that machinery, science, and capital can are among the most famous in the world.
scotland: speyside 49
speyside DISTILLERIES
of Scotch whisky, he decided and now Pernod Ricard,

to set up on his own. He soon Aberlour has supplied the
found himself up before the heart of the Clan Campbell
High Court in London, along blend. In recent decades
with half the distillers on more emphasis has been put
Speyside, to defend his use on Aberlour as a 10-year-old
of the “Glenlivet” suffix—a single malt, aged in a mix of
Aberlour was rebuilt at the end case that was eventually won. bourbon and sherry casks.
of the 19th century, after a fire Despite Aberlour being Sold in over 60 countries, it
destroyed the previous distillery. described as “a perfect is particularly popular in
modern distillery” following France—the biggest malt
a visit by the eminent whisky whisky market in the world.
ABERLOUR writer Alfred Barnard Aberlour 10-year-old 40% ABV
Aberlour, Banffshire
(see p50) in the 1880s, Clean and fresh on the nose
www.aberlour.co.uk
Fleming sold out to his with a trace of pears and
Open to visitors
agent R. Thorne & Sons of bubblegum, smooth and
Greenock a few years later. slightly spicy in the mouth,
The village of Aberlour was Fleming became a local drying on the finish.
established in 1812 on the benefactor, paying for the Aberlour a’bunadh
east bank of the Spey, close village community hall and A cask strength from selected
to where it is joined by the leaving money to fund a Oloroso sherry butts, this is a
Lour, or “chattering burn.” hospital and a bridge across rich, sumptuous full-bodied
A Druid community based the Spey. His motto, malt, with notes of ginger
here and dating back to the “Let the Deed Show,” is and dark chocolate.
Bronze Age was converted displayed on every
to Christianity by St. bottle of Aberlour.
Drostan in the 6th century. In 1898 the distillery Allt a’ Bhainne
He is said to have used the was badly damaged in a Glenrinnes, Dufftown,
local well to baptize his flock, fire, most of its stocks Banffshire
and, centuries later, it was the being lost in the
pure spring waters of St. process. Charles From a distance,
Drostan’s Well that attracted Doig of Elgin (see there is little to
the first whiskymakers. p59), the architect suggest any whisky
What was originally the responsible for so is made in this
Aberlour-Glenlivet Distillery many distilleries on modern, flat-
was founded by James Speyside, was roofed building a
Fleming in 1879. The son commissioned to few miles south of
of a tenant farmer born in rebuild Aberlour Dufftown. It could
1830, Fleming knew the into more or less be a sports arena
local distilleries well, having what you see today. or executive
been a grain merchant Since World condos, but surely
supplying them with barley. War II, as part of Aberlour not a distillery? The
With the growing popularity Campbell Distillers a’bunadh name is Gaelic for
50 whiskey nations
“the milk burn,” which flows

close by and is the place
where local dairy farmers
used to wash their
equipment after milking—
which presumably turned
the water cloudy.
Allt a’ Bhainne was built
by Seagrams in 1975 for
£2.7 million as a super-
efficient production unit. Its
purpose in life is to supply
malt for blends, specifically
Chivas Regal (see p124) and
100 Pipers (see p118), though
there are occasional
independent bottlings of Allt architects went for a more Aultmore’s stills provide whisky
a’Bhaine as a single malt. The interesting design. At the for John Dewar & Sons, and
distillery’s current owners, front of the building is a occasional single malt bottlings.
Pernod Ricard, found it curious, small turret where
surplus to requirement in the yeast is stored; it pokes built Craigellachie Distillery
2002, and its was closed. through the roof like the (see p55). Before that, he
But three years later, it was head of a rocket. Auchroisk had helped his father run
cranked back to life and is was built to supply malt for Benrinnes Distillery.
now running at full capacity. the top-selling J&B In 1898 he
blend, and its acquired Oban,
location, like that and renamed his
AUCHROISK of all distilleries, company Oban
Mulben, Banffshire
was dictated by and Aultmore-
having a reliable Glenlivet
Like Allt a’Bhainne Distillery, source of pure Distilleries Ltd.
Auchroisk—pronounced water—in this His aim was to
“Ath-rusk,” and meaning case a spring supply malts
the “ford across the red called Dorrie’s to big blenders
stream” in Gaelic—is Well above such as Pattisons
another modern plant, Rothes. (see p142), but
having been built in 1975. A decade later the timing
For this one, however, the it was decided to proved terrible.
bottle the malt Pattisons went
Alfred Barnard as a 10-year-old bankrupt at the
—called “The end of the same
Between 1885 and 1887, Singleton of Aultmore 12-Year-Old year, almost
while working for Harper’s Auchroisk” to destroying the
Weekly Gazette, Alfred help whisky drinkers get entire Scotch whisky industry.
Barnard managed to visit their tongue around the Aultmore had barely
every distillery in Scotland, name. Now branded simply recovered before distilling was
Ireland, and England, as “Auchroisk,” it continues banned during World War I,
recording his travels in an as a relatively rare single malt and in 1923 the distillery was
epic tome called The that is mellow, medium- bought by John Dewar &
Whisky Distilleries of the bodied, and herbal in style. Sons, with whose blends it has
United Kingdom. The book been associated ever since.
(which covers 162 Occasional independent
AULTMORE bottlings of a gentle, smoke-
distilleries in total; 129 of
them in Scotland) is a mix Keith, Banffshire
scented, aromatic single
malt can be found.
of technical manual and
With the late Victorian
travelogue, and was whisky boom in full swing,
illustrated with sketches Alexander Edward BALMENACH
and engravings. A facsimile established the Aultmore Cromdale, Grantown-on-Spey,
edition was published in Distillery in 1895 on the Morayshire
the late 1980s, and an flatlands between Keith and
online version can be seen the sea. He was already well- In the early 1800s, James
at www.peatfreak.com. established in the business, McGregor and his two
having, with Peter Mackie, brothers took a lease on
scotland: speyside 51
Balmenach farm. It lay in a Balvenie, which cost Balvenie was originally

dip in the hills between the £2,000 to build, was a distilled within Balvenie
Upper Spey and its tributary measure of Grant’s House—a Georgian
the Avon, near the village confidence in the whisky manor house that was
of Cromdale—scene of trade. He knew that eventually knocked
an early Jacobite battle in there were many down in the 1920s.
1690. James is said to have blenders now By then William
established an illicit still desperate for Grant & Sons were
before taking out a license Speyside malts, as bottling their own
in 1824. The distillery was a fire at Glenlivet blends, such as
described as “among the Distillery in 1891 Grant’s Finest and
most primitive in Scotland” had destroyed all Standfast (named
by Alfred Barnard after his its stocks. He after the battle cry
visit in the 1880s. also knew that he of Clan Gant). The
Its chimney stack blew needed to protect stones from the old
down on December 28, his water supply, manor house were
1879, crashing through the having heard that used to build a new
roof and rupturing the stills. a local man was malt barn, where
Miraculously the whole place considering taking Balvenie the grain was
did not explode, though if a lease on land next Doublewood malted and dried
it had it would hardly have to Glenfiddich to 12-Year-Old above a kiln.
made the front page the next build a distillery. Had Today Balvenie
day—the same storm blew he succeeded he would have is the only distillery on
down the Tay Bridge sending been entitled to half the Speyside to have retained its
all 75 passengers and crew available water. floor maltings. As a result,
aboard the Edinburgh train As with Glenfiddich, whose smoke still seeps out from
to their death. stills were bought second- the original pagoda roof,
Today, after a period in hand from Cardhu, Grant giving the distillery a real
“mothballs” in the 1990s, looked around for a bargain. traditional feel, even if most
the distillery is back in On hearing that there might of the barley is brought in
action, supplying blends and be an old mash tun for sale, already malted to supply the
the occasional independent if somewhat larger than needs of the eight stills.
bottling as a single malt. he wanted, Grant scribbled Balvenie Doublewood
a gruff note to his son: 12-year-old 43% ABV
“Don’t be afraid of the After years in a bourbon
BALVENIE depth of the mash-tun if barrel, the whisky is finished
Dufftown, Keith, Banffshire
otherwise suitable—a man off in a first-fill sherry cask
www.balvenie.com
does not need to piss his pot to give a sweet, sumptuous
By appointment only
full unless he likes.” malt with a nutty-spicy
The stills came from Glen character. Doublewood has
Within six years of building Albyn in Inverness and replaced the original 10-
Glenfiddich in 1886, William Lagavulin on Islay. Their year-old. Plenty of older
Grant felt ready to invest in tall-necked design has been expressions are aged in
a new distillery next door. faithfully copied ever since. different casks.
Balmenach Distillery is working
once again, having fallen silent
in the 1990s.
52 whiskey nations
on the site, and Glenfarclas

BENRIACH because its floor (see pp59 & 61).
Longmorn, Elgin, Morayshire
maltings were Its six stills are
www.benriachdistillery.co.uk
kept going in worked in tandem
order to supply in a type of triple
Having built Longmorn near Longmorn distillation that,
Elgin in 1894, John Duff next door. The after 15 years of
decided to add a sister distillery was maturation in
distillery four years later. brought back to sherry casks,
Benriach operated for just life in the 1960s produces a
three seasons, supplying malt only to be sumptuous, plum-
whisky to the Pattisons (see mothballed Benriach Authenticus pudding style
p142), the biggest blenders again in 2002. single malt,
of their day. When Pattisons It was bought two years occasionally available in
went bust, Benriach promptly later by an independent the Flora & Fauna range.
shut down and remained consortium led by Billy
closed for the next 65 years. Walker, a veteran of the
It only survived because no whisky industry. Today BENROMACH
one wanted to build a Benriach is available as a Forres, Morayshire
supermarket or parking lot floral, honey-scented 12- www.benromach.com
year-old and richer, darker
Gordon & Macphail malts up to a 40-year-old. Whatever else one can say
There are also a couple of about Benromach, this small
heavily peated, Islay-style distillery in the market town
whiskies called “Curiositas” of Forres is certainly a
and “Authenticus.” survivor. It was established in
1898 by FW Brickmann, a
spirit broker from Leith, and
BENRINNES Duncan Macallum of the
Glen Nevis Distillery in
Campbeltown. Together
The hump-backed shape of they hired the famous
Ben Rinnes, heather-clad in distillery architect Charles
Benromach Distillery was summer and bare and bleak- Doig (see p59). Benromach
bought and reopened by looking in winter is a struggled on through the
Gordon & MacPhail in 1993. prominent landmark on great whisky crash of 1900,
Speyside. For years its many two world wars, US
Founded in 1895, Gordon & springs have provided local Prohibition, and the 1930s
MacPhail is a food and wine whiskymakers with crystal- Depression more or less in
merchants based in Elgin clear water, so it is only right one piece. It changed hands
on Speyside. Part of that that this hill should have a many times along on the
business has always been distillery named after it. way, however, at one point
the supply of quality whisky, The original distillery was being owned by National
and for Gordon & MacPhail called Lyne of Rutherie Distillers of America,
that means independent and was first licensed by whose stable included
bottling. More or less since Peter McKenzie in Old Crow and Old
its inception, the company 1834. It was renamed Granddad (see p216). In
has had a policy of buying Benrinnes in 1842, and 1953 it became part of
new make spirit from after various changes in the Distillers Company
distilleries and maturing it ownership was bought (DCL), Benromach’s
themselves—at least partly by David Edward in sixth owner.
in their own warehouses— 1864. His son With just two stills
in casks that they have Alexander later and a production of
selected. The whisky is founded the 110,000 gallons (half
bottled only when they Craigellachie (see a million liters) of
consider it to be at its best p55) and Aultmore pure alcohol a year, it
level of maturation. (p50) distilleries. always suffered from
Currently, they work with Being located its size, and on
around 80 different malts 700 ft (200 m) up March 24, 1983 it
and offer somewhere in the on the north-facing shut down, seemingly
region of 400 expressions slope of Ben Rinnes, for good. The eight
of single malts, as well as it shares the same distillery workers on
some of their own blends. feeling of remoteness Benromach duty that day signed
as Glenlivet and Traditional their names on the
Cardhu, once the spiritual home of
Johnny Walker, now releases most
of its output as a single malt.
filling room wall. The stills emphasize that it was Scotch spirits safe via an overhead
were ripped out and the not bourbon being made pipe, which, according to
building left empty to await here— its then sister distillery folklore, was occasionally
potential developers. Ten was Four Roses in Kentucky. tapped into by thirsty locals.
years passed before the Edgar Bronfmann, heir to If true, that only happened
distillery was finally bought the mighty Seagram empire, for three years, because the
by Gordon & MacPhail, cut the soil in 1972 and new distillery shut down in
one of Scotland’s leading within a year the first spirit 1901, as if for good. It finally
independent bottlers. flowed. The name became reopened as Caperdonich in
Eventually, having Braeval when the company 1965, and capacity was
overcome some major acquired Glenlivet five doubled to 4 stills two
structural problems—which years later, and since years later. Its owners
included having to dig up then it has remained have never bottled it
most of Forres to repair the somewhat in the as a single malt,
pipe supplying spring water shadow of its more though there are
—the distillery was officially famous neighbor. occasional offerings
reopened by Prince Charles Now part of Chivas from independent
in its centenary year, 1998. Brothers (see bottlers.
Benromach Traditional p126), little if any
40% ABV lLaunched in 2004, Braeval is bottled
this straw-colored whisky has as a CARDHU
a herbal, malty flavor with a single malt. Knockando,
whiff of peat smoke. Aberlour, Banffshire
Open to visitors
CAPERDONICH
BRAEVAL In around 1810,
Rothes, Morayshire
Nr Dufftown, Keith, Banffshire
John Cumming
Major James took a lease
The Braes of Glenlivet were Grant decided to Cardhu 12-Year-Old on Cardow farm
a hotbed of smuggling in the build Caperdonich near Knockando
twilight years before whisky in Rothes in 1897. It was to and soon began making
came in from the cold and be a replica of its successful whisky as a sideline to the
went legal in the 1820s. It was neighbor Glen Grant farming. His wife, Helen,
the name chosen in the 1970s Distillery, which had been was in on the act too, and
by Seagrams for a modern built by his father and uncle used to sell flagons of illicit
distillery, over 1,000 ft in 1840. Indeed it was whisky through the
(300 m) up and a short drive initially called Glen Grant farmhouse kitchen window.
from Tomintoul. In keeping No. 2, and used the same She was said to be forever
with the romance, the shaped stills and source of baking cakes known as
outside design is traditional, grain to replicate the exact bannocks to disguise the
with a decorative pagoda same spirit. The authorities smell of fermenting barley,
strapped to the roof. This even insisted that it had to as well as to have something
may, in part, have been to pass through Glen Grant’s to offer any visiting
54 whiskey nations
cardhu and The pure malt rumpus

Thanks to its huge following in Spain, Cardhu It centered on the decision to re-christen the
almost became a victim of it own success in brand Cardhu Pure Malt and allow similar
recent years. Between 1997 and 2002, sales Speyside malts into the mix. Unleashed from
grew by 100,000 cases and demand was set to being tied to a single distillery, it could expand
outstrip supply. Rather than raise the price to production and potentially overtake
restrict demand, Cardhu’s owners, Diageo, Glenfiddich within 10 years to become
embarked on a different course—one that was the biggest selling malt of all. Not
to cause the biggest storm to hit the whisky surprisingly Glenfiddich’s owners were
industry for decades, with public cries of extremely alarmed and led a full-scale
betrayal and questions raised in Parliament. campaign to force Diageo into a
humiliating climb-down and the
Cardhu Distillery and its prized malt removal of Pure Malt in 2003.
whisky were at the heart of the dispute
between Diageo and Glenfiddich.
excisemen. While they were have a very public spat some the man who founded
tucking in to their tea, Helen 120 years later (see above). Glenlivet in 1824—John had
would run into the yard and Cardhu was rebuilt in the managed both Glenfarclas
raise a red flag to warn any 1960s, more or less in and Macallan. By 1870, he
passing trade not to keeping with the original clearly felt ready to establish
approach. design, and was known as a distillery of his own, which
Meanwhile, her husband the spiritual home of he positioned at an old
was often out smuggling and Johnnie Walker, since that is smuggler’s bothy (hut) on
had a string of convictions to where most of the malt the east bank of the Spey.
prove it. Years after he went ended up. Today barely a His plans were well-
legal and started operating teaspoon escapes into blends, conceived, starting with the
as a licensed distiller in 1824, such is the demand for water source, which was
these convictions were framed Cardhu as a single malt, the pure spring-fed Craggan
and hung on the walls of the which, in the UK, is only burn (which also provided
distillery manager’s office. available at the distillery. the distillery’s power, via a
Cardhu continued to operate Cardhu 12-year-old water wheel, right up until
as a small farm distillery for 40% ABV This smooth sweet- 1950). He was close to
the next 60 years. scented Speyside malt is good-quality barley and
By then, John’s daughter- very approachable, if not peat with which to malt.
in-law Elizabeth Cumming overly complex. Crucially, he was also
was in charge. She remained near Ballandalloch
so even after selling the station, and
distillery to John Walker CRAGGANMORE Cragganmore became
& Sons in 1893. She was Ballindalloch,
the first distillery in
known as the “Queen of the Banffshire Scotland to be built
whisky trade,” and reached www.malts.com
beside a railroad with
the ripe old age of 95. In Open to visitors
its own siding.
the1880s, Elizabeth oversaw Besides whisky,
the complete rebuilding of When John Smith trains were the other
Cardhu. The old stills, badly decided to set out on great passion in
worn and patched up, were his own, he was one Smith’s life—though,
taken out and sold to of the most weighing in at 309 lbs
William Grant to start his experienced distillers (140 kg), he was a little
own distillery. That was on Speyside. Said to too large to squeeze
Glenfiddich, the distillery be the illegitimate son Craggamore through the carriage
with whom Cardhu would of George Smith— 12-Year-Old doors, and so sat in
scotland: Speyside 55
the guard’s van instead.

Sadly he died in 1886,
a year before the first
Whisky Special rolled out
of Ballandalloch laden
with Scotch.
John’s son, Gordon Smith,
took over, and in 1901 hired
the leading distillery
architect of his day, Charles
Doig of Elgin (see p59), to
rebuild Cragganmore. But
for a few new warehouses
and a doubling of the
original pair of stills, the
place has changed little over
the years. With its spirit is derived. Today Craigellachie supplies whisky for
outbuildings arranged in a Cragganmore represents the John Dewar & Sons, whose White
compact cluster, it has the region within Diageo’s six Label is a big seller in the US.
self-contained feel of a small Classic Malts, which is quite
Highland distillery. Inside is an accolade given how many having completed his
the curious feature of two Speyside distilleries the apprenticeship at Islay’s
spirit stills, whose necks, company owns. Lagavulin Distillery.
rather than rising up like an Cragganmore 12-year-old Craigellachie paired with
elegant swan’s, are lopped 40% ABV lAn intriguing herbal Lagavulin provided the
off halfway up. In the past, bouquet with a trace of honey foundations of his famous
people speculated that this and vanilla gives way to malty White Horse blend, although
was to fit them in under the flavors in the mouth and a some Craigellachie has always
roof, but it seems unlikely whiff of smoke on the finish. been sold as a single malt.
that Smith made such an Mackie died in 1924,
obvious mistake. Whatever having bought the distillery
the case, the design is always CRAIGELLACHIE outright, and three years
faithfully copied every time a Craigellachie, Banffshire
later, his business was
still needs replacing for fear swallowed up by the
of altering the spirit’s In 1891 Peter Mackie joined Distillers Company (DCL),
character. a partnership to build the forerunner of Diageo.
Nor would anyone tamper Craigellachie with the highly Today the distillery is
with the old-fashioned worm experienced Alexander hardly recognizable, after
tubs outside, which are used Edward as master distiller. a comprehensive makeover
for condensing the spirit. Of all the great Victorian in the 1960s which gave it a
With less copper contact whisky barons, Mackie was shiny metal chimney that
than a modern condenser, definitely closest to the actual rises high above the rooftops
a meatier, more complex production of malt whisky, like a silver mast. All that
Cragganmore was built by the
renowned distillery architect
Charles Doig.
56 whiskey nations
Mackenzie found the means Most of what comes off

to rebuild Dailuaine into one Dailluaine’s six stills goes
of the biggest malt distilleries into blends such as Johnnie
in the Highlands, and the Walker. There are occasional
first in Scotland to have a limited release bottlings of a
pagoda roof—designed to single malt, most recently of
draw smoke through the a sumptuous, heavily
malting barley above the sherried 16-year-old.
kiln. It was solidly built,
and in 1917 survived a
bad fire with its crenulated, DUFFTOWN
mold-blackened warehouses Dufftown, Keith
intact—you can still see
them to this day. It was James Duff, the fourth
The ground beside the Earl of Fife, who founded
distillery was flattened to Dufftown in 1817, on a site
Craigellachie 14-Year-Old make room for a siding where the Dullan water
attached to the main railroad meets the Fiddich River. At
remains of its Victorian line that ran through first its plentiful supplies of
roots are parts of two of the Carron. The distillery had its pristine cold water attracted
original warehouses. It seems own steam train, or “puggie,” mill owners, who used it as
strange that Craigellachie— which meant all the raw a source of power to grind
named after a high crag materials, from the barley oatmeal. It was on the site
where the Fiddich River to the empty casks, could be of one such mill that the
flows into the Spey—has delivered right to the door. Dufftown-Glenlivet Distillery
only the one distillery. It is When it was ready to leave, was built in 1896. By then
certainly right in the midst laden with casks of whisky, a the town already had five
of whiskymaking country, call would be put through to distilleries and was on its way
and its size grew five times the station master at Carron. to eclipsing Campbeltown
on the back of Speyside’s
late Victorian rise to become DALLAS DHU
the pre-eminent whisky
region in Scotland. In the pit of winter when other distilleries are radiating warmth
Craigellachie became part and whisky, Dallas Dhu in Forres, Morayshire, remains cold. It
of the stable of distilleries has been that way since 1983, the distillery being a victim of
supplying malt for Dewar’s widespread cuts to drain the “whisky loch” that was then full
White Label—the most to the brim. Five years later, it was opened as a museum by
popular blend in America. Historic Scotland, who provide an audio-visual guide to the
Both were bought in 1998 distillery’s history. At the end of the tour you can even sample
by Bacardi, who released a drop of Dallas Dhu in the Roderick Dhu blend.
Craigellachie as a 14-year- The distillery’s name, meaning “black water valley” in Gaelic,
old single malt six years later. was built by Alexander Edward in 1898 to supply malt for this
once popular brand owned by Wright & Greig in Glasgow.
Edward sold up after a year and the distillery struggled on,
DAILUAINE almost disappearing in a fire in 1939. With just two stills and
Carron, Aberlour, Morayshire
a water wheel that provided the power up until 1971, the
distillery never quite embraced the 20th century, which is
The small hamlet of Carron perhaps why it became a museum—information about
lies between Ben Rinnes and which you can find at www.historic-scotland.gov.uk.
the Spey, near Aberlour. It
was here, beside the approach Dallas Dhu closed as a distillery
road, that a local farmer in the early 1980s and is now a
called William Mackenzie museum dedicated to whisky.
built Dailuaine in 1852.
When he died, his widow
leased it to James Fleming,
who went into partnership
with her son Thomas
Mackenzie in 1879. Later it
teamed up with a famous
whisky from the Western
Isles to form Dailuaine-
Talisker Distilleries Ltd.
In 1884, Fleming and
The site of Glenallachie Distillery
was chosen so that it could source
its water from a snow-fed burn.
(see p47) as Scotland’s whisky Mackinlay blend. Having something to do with its size.
metropolis. chosen a site near Aberlour, If the stillroom really was
The partners who owned months were spent locating below ground in the stone
Dufftown included two the perfect water source. In hut beside what is now the
Liverpool businessmen, a the end, a pipeline was built manager’s office, little more
local lawyer, and a farmer to draw water from a snow- than a trickle of Scotch can
who owned the nearby farm fed burn which rises among ever have been produced
of Pittyvaich, which supplied the deep granite springs on here. The trickle had already
the barley. Soon the solicitor Ben Rinnes. The distillery’s dried up by the time it
had his work cut out in a architect was William was sub-let to Charles Hay,
protracted dispute over Delmé-Evans, who was also who rebuilt and renamed
water rights with the responsible for Tullibardine it Glenburgie.
distillery’s neighbor, and Isle of Jura. Glenallachie The distillery passed
Mortlach (see p72), where is a contemporary, gravity- through many hands until it
whisky had been made since flow distillery on one level, was bought by the owners of
1824. Angry letters were with a pond which steams up Ballantine’s (see p121) in the
traded by day, while at night in the winter months when 1930s. It had the almost
the water course from Jock’s warm water is pumped in unique distinction of having
Well in the Conval hills was from the condensers. a female manager—Miss
constantly redirected. Its brewery owners decided Nicol. In the 1950s a pair of
In year two the distillery it was time to sell up in 1985 Lomond stills were installed.
was bought outright by one and Glenallachie passed to These were squat, round-
of the Liverpudlians, Peter Invergordon and then to necked, and quite unlike the
Mackenzie, who also owned Chivas Brothers (see p126). existing pair, and produced
Blair Athol. Most of the malt Though its owners have a very different malt to the
disappeared into Bell’s—the always used it solely for light, apple-scented
popular brand owned by blending purposes, there Glenburgie. The new malt
Arthur Bell & Sons of Perth, are a fair number of was called Glencraig after
and they eventually bought independent bottlings. Ballantine’s then production
both distilleries in 1933 (see manager, Willie Craig—one
p122). When not performing of the few men ever to have
for Britain’s best-selling GLENBURGIE had a malt named after him.
blend, Dufftown makes an Forres, Morayshire
However, this whisky
occasional appearance as a disappeared when the
green, herbal, slightly oily Those traveling on the busy Lomond stills were replaced
single malt. A96 to Inverness could easily in the early 1980s.
miss Glenburgie, with just its In his monumental book
rooftops poking above the on distilleries of 1887, Alfred
GLENALLACHIE trees in a valley between Barnard (see p50) described
Forres and Elgin. Originally Glenburgie as “about as old-
called the Kilnflat Distillery, fashioned as it is possible to
In 1967 Charles Mackinlay it was established in 1829, conceive.” The old distillery
& Co., part of Scottish & though some place it as early was leveled in 2004 and
Newcastle Breweries, as 1810. The fact that it did replaced by a state-of-the-art
decided they needed their not survive in its original distillery, which opened in
own distillery for their form may have had June 2005.
58 whiskey nations
glenfiddich
William Grant founded Glenfiddich Distillery in 1887, and named it
after the nearby Fiddich River. Having developed his knowledge of
whisky at Mortlach Distillery, Grant set up Glenfiddich in good time
to catch the late Victorian swell of interest in whisky.
Born in 1839, William Grant The first spirit from Glenfiddich

worked for a brief stint in a local flowed on Christmas Day 1887.
lime quarry, after which he joined Now all Grant needed was a buyer.
Mortlach, Dufftown’s only distillery Luckily there was a shortage of
at the time, eventually rising from Speyside malt at the time, thanks
bookkeeper to manager. Despite to a fire at Glenlivet, and Grant
having a wife and nine children began supplying a big blender in
to support on a salary of £100 Aberdeen. Later he developed
a year, plus £7 he received as the brands of his own, including
precentor of the Free Church of “Stand Fast”—the battle cry of
Dufftown, he nursed ambitions the Clan Grant. By the time of
to set up in business on his own. his death in 1923, the company’s
Initially he wanted to open a blends were being sold from
lime works, but slowly over time Adelaide to Vancouver. They
his dreams turned to whisky. Glenfiddich survived American Prohibition
After 16 years at Mortlach he 18-Year-Old and began to thrive in the
had saved enough to build a distillery postwar whisky boom.
for £650 using stones dug from the Today Glenfiddich is geared almost
bed of the Fiddich River. For another entirely to its own single malt,
£120 he acquired a pair of second- particularly the standard 12-year-old.
hand stills, a set of washtuns, a worm, Fans appreciate its smoothness. As one
and a water mill from Cardhu’s lady wrote, “it slips down the throat like
distiller, Elizabeth Cumming. With the Elizabeth Taylor in velvet trousers.”
Robbie Dhu spring to provide water It may not be the most complex of
and a nearby burn diverted to power whiskies, but it has introduced millions
the malt mill, the site was well chosen. to the world of single malt.
Glenfiddich pioneered the sale of single malt,
and the whisky produced at this vast distillery
remains the world’s biggest selling brand.
has a rich malty character,

GLENDULLAN sweetened with oak. charles doig
Dufftown, Keith, Banffshire Scotland’s most famous
distillery architect, Charles
By the end of the 19th GLEN ELGIN
Doig, was born in 1855.
century, the townsfolk of Longmorn by Elgin, Morayshire At the age of 15 he was
Dufftown were host to no apprenticed to a local
fewer than six distilleries. The distinguished architect architect, and his first
Yet the Aberdeen-based Charles Doig witnessed the commission was to design
blenders William Williams & late Victorian whisky boom Glenburgie Distillery in
Sons decided there was still at first hand. He had 1881. He later set up his
room for one more whisky- designed many of the own practice in Elgin, and in
making plant, and began region’s distilleries, and, his lifetime drafted plans for
building Glendullan in 1897. when called upon in 1899 no fewer than 55 distilleries.
The distillery opened the to create yet another on the Doig’s signature note was
following year and by 1902 road from Elgin to Rothes, the pagoda roof, first
had secured a Royal warrant he predicted it would be the designed for Dailluaine in
from Edward VII. last on Speyside for 50 years. 1889 to draw smoke
In comparison to its In fact, it was not until 1958 through the barley from the
neighbors, Glendullan that another distillery was kiln below. From then on
fared well, only stopping built—that being Glen Keith. practically every distillery in
production in the 1940s, Doig’s client was William Scotland had one, though
when grain was rationed Simpson, a former by the mid-20th century, they
during World War II. manager at Glenfarclas, were purely ornamental.
By then, Glendullan whose timing was
whisky had become a terrible given that the
key filling in Old Parr market was awash with making whisky to supply the
(see p143), a Macdonald whisky at the time. cattle drovers who would
Greenlees blend named Having spent £13,000 stop there on their way to
after a certain Thomas on it, he recouped just market in Elgin.
Parr, who died in £4,000 when he sold Having been licensed by
1635 at the age of the distillery in Hay in 1836, the Glenfarclas
152—or so it was 1900. Glen Elgin distillery passed to John
claimed. The blend, also suffered from Grant when he took the
which comes in sharing the same tenancy of Rechlerich in
a raft of age water supply as its 1865, adding to several
statements, still near neighbor farms he had nearby. The
sells well in East Coleburn. Once this Grants have owned it ever
Asia and Paraguay. dispute was resolved since, making it virtually
In 1962, a new and the distillery unique in an industry that
distillery was built connected to the is dominated by big
next door. Glen Elgin National Grid in the corporations. That said,
Architecturally, it 12-Year-Old 1960s, Glen Elgin’s Glenfarclas was valued at
resembles either an future was assured as only £511 in 1865, and was
office building or perhaps, a key filling for the White immediately sublet to a
better still, a factory, with its Horse blend (see p153). relative called John Smith.
flat roof and large plate-glass This left John Grant to
windows. For the next 13 concentrate on what he did
years, the old and the new GLENFARCLAS best—breeding champion
worked in tandem, with their Ballindalloch, Banffshire
Aberdeen Angus cattle.
own mash tuns, wash backs, www.glenfarclas.co.uk
Five years later Smith left
and stills. The spirit was then Open to visitors
to set up Cragganmore,
vatted together, filled into leaving Grant and his son
casks, and used for blending. From a distance, Glenfarclas George to run the distillery
Then, in 1985, the old resembles a remote farmstead alongside the farm. By the
Glendullan was quietly more than a distillery, lying time George’s two sons
dismantled. Its successor now in open farmland beneath inherited in 1890, the
has six stills and is Diageo’s the hump-backed slopes of whiskymaking side of the
second-largest malt distillery Ben Rinnes to the northeast. business had become a lot
after Dufftown. This gives a clue to its origins more important. The
As a malt, Glendullan has as a small rural distillery on brothers formed the
been bottled at various ages, the Rechlerich Farm near Glenfarclas-Glenlivet
from 8 years upward. As a Ballindalloch, where Robert Distillery Co. in partnership
straw-colored 12-year-old, it Hay, a tenant farmer, began with Pattison Brothers of
60 whiskey nations
whisky was made. It hardly

mattered whether they
mentioned Glenfiddich or
just the word “malt,” since
the two became synonymous
for a time.
By 1970, UK sales had
passed 24,000 cases and the
whisky was beginning to
venture further afield through
duty-free sales. Only a year
earlier the Scotch Whisky
Association had questioned
Glenfarclas, with its low-lying Glenfarclas 105 60% ABV • This the wisdom of selling
medley of buildings, resembles a intense, cask-strength whisky unblended whisky to the
farmstead more than a distillery. is infused with liquorice, “Sassenachs,” and many in
molasses, and smoke. the industry thought it would
Leith, into whose blends most be a short-lived fad.
of the malt went. However, a Instead Glenfiddich
little was bottled as “Pure Glenfiddich pioneered the whole
Old Glenfarclas-Glenlivet Dufftown, Banffshire
reinvention of single
Malt Whisky” from as early www.glenfiddich.com
malts, and established a
as 1899. Open to visitors
lead it has never lost.
Disaster struck a year later Glenfiddich 12-year-old
when Pattisons went bankrupt Although it comes 40% ABV • A pale straw-
(see p142). As the Pattison from a late-Victorian colored malt with a
brothers were sent to jail distillery, the world’s trace of pears, drying
for fraud, the prospects for top-selling single malt on the finish.
Glenfarclas looked decidedly is really a child of the Glenfiddich 15-year-old
grim. Somehow the distillery 1960s. It was in 1964 40% ABV • The use of
managed to survive as a that William Grant & sherry wood adds
private business called J&G Sons decided to texture and color in
Grant & Sons, which by launch an 8-year-old the 15-year-old.
1914 was being run solely in a distinctive Glenfiddich 18-year-old
by John Grant’s grandson, triangular bottle and 43% ABV • An altogether
George. Perhaps the trauma market it in England. richer, more complex
of the Pattisons’ crash taught It struggled at first Glenfiddich style, with flavors of
the Grants never to go into because shopkeepers 12-Year-Old spicy baked apples
partnership again, for the and barmen were and cinnamon.
business has remained fiercely reluctant to stock a drink Glenfiddich 21-year-old 40% ABV
independent ever since. that no one had ever asked A rich, indulgent malt
Yet unlike other privately- for by name, but soon finished off in rum casks
owned distilleries, Glenfarclas Glenfiddich was receiving to give a toffee sweetness.
is no boutique operation. Its plenty of media coverage.
six stills are the biggest on There were endless articles Glenfiddich whisky is matured
Speyside, and it also boasts explaining how this “new” in the cool, damp conditions of
a large visitor center, which drink called single malt traditional warehouses.
opened in 1973. The center’s
reception room resembles
one of the state rooms on
the ship Empress of Australia,
as Glenfarclas’s former
chairman, George Grant,
heard it was about to be
broken up and decided to
buy the paneling.
Glenfarclas 10-year-old
40% ABV • Straw-colored,
gently spicy malt with notes
of pear drops and sherry.
Glenfarclas 12-year-old
43% ABV • Distinct sherried
nose with spicy flavors of
cinnamon and stewed fruit.
Glen Grant remained in The gardens at Glen Grant have
GLEN GRANT family hands until 1977 recently been restored to their
when it was sold to Seagram. late Victorian glory.
Rothes, Morayshire
Open to visitors
As a 5-year-old single malt it
became hugely successful in (see p146). Given the success
With its thick, red sandstone Italy, and the distillery now of both in Asian markets—
walls and pair of pepperpot belongs to the Italian group with Chivas booming in
turrets, the oldest surviving Campari. Visitors should China—the distillery’s role
distillery in Rothes appears explore the beautifully seems set to continue.
reassuringly solid. Glen restored gardens after seeing
Grant was founded in 1840 the distillery. The Major
by two brothers—James used to take after-dinner GLENLIVET
Grant, a solicitor in Elgin, guests to a narrow ravine in Ballindalloch, Banffshire
and John Grant, a local grain the garden where he would www.theglenlivet.com
merchant whose knowledge unlock a safe embedded in Open to visitors
of whiskymaking allegedly the rock to produce glasses
came from supplying the and a bottle of Glen Grant. Today Glenlivet is the
region’s illicit distillers. If anyone required water, second-biggest-selling single
They certainly picked a they had only to dip their malt in the world and is
good site with the Glen glass in the burn as it rushed especially popular in the US.
Grant burn to provide water past in the moonlight. New French owners, Pernod
for the mash and power for
the machinery, and plentiful The ghost of Biawa
supplies of good-quality GLEN KEITH
barley from the flatlands of Keith, Banffshire With the day-to-day running
Moray nearby. Before long the distillery delegated to
the distillery also benefited In 1958 Seagram decided others, James Grant (“The
from the railroads, which to build a new distillery in Major”) spent many months
reached Rothes in 1858. Keith across the road from big-game hunting in Africa.
Three years later Glen Grant Strathisla, its recently On one trip he returned
became the first industrial acquired flagship. As this was with an orphan boy. The
works in the Highlands to the first new malt distillery on Major christened him Biawa
install electric lighting. Speyside for almost 60 years, and sent him to the local
James Grant’s son, it was a significant move by school, prior to employing
known to everyone as “the the Canadian giant, seeming him as his butler. The Major
Major,” took over in 1872. to signify the end of postwar died in 1931, and Biawa
He was the quintessential austerity and the start of a lived for another 40 years.
Victorian gent, clad head-to- golden age for Scotch. He is buried in the town
toe in tweed with a superb It was built on the site of cemetery, opposite
walrus moustache. At the an ancient malt mill in a Glenrothes Distillery, and
time the distillery was fairly traditional style, using his ghost has occasionally
primed to ride the surge local stone and a decorative been spotted in the vicinity.
in whisky’s popularity; pagoda on the roof. Almost He left his gun and fishing
Scotch was still very much the entire production of rod to his beloved Rothes
a local vice with per capita Glen Keith disappears into Football Club, for whom he
consumption in England blends, notably Chivas Regal had once played.
one third that of Scotland. (see p124) and Passport
62 whiskey nations
Ricard, who acquired the Glenlossie has worked with

distillery in 2000, seem keen neighboring Mannochmore
to challenge William Grant’s since the 1970s.
leviathan for poll position.
They have some way to go. increased to six, with
Glenlivet entered the 20th purifiers on each of
century as by far the most the stills to produce
famous distillery in Scotland, a more delicate spirit
yet it then appeared to rest than its neighbor.
on its laurels while others Mannochmore was
traded on the Glenlivet briefly responsible for
name. It was only after US a “black whisky” called
Prohibition that it was finally Loch Dhu, the result of That was the year it closed
sold in bottle rather than cask. heavy tinting with caramel. down, seemingly for good.
Glenlivet formed a There were occasional signs
partnership with Glen Grant of life afterward, but by the
and Longmorn until all three GLEN MORAY end of World War I, the
distilleries were bought by Bruceland Road, Elgin
distillery was in liquidation.
Seagram in 1977. www.glenmoray.com
Glen Moray was bought in
Glenlivet 12-year-old 40% ABV Open to visitors
1920 by Macdonald & Muir,
Light and delicate, with a large firm of whisky
an oaky sweetness and a The Ancient Royal blenders in Leith, for
faint hint of apple peel. Burgh of Elgin is the £12,000, “less £700 for
glenlivet 15-year-old official capital of repairs to the roof.”
43% ABV • Riper floral Speyside, though it sits Macdonald & Muir had
notes are here slightly on the edge of been buying Glen Moray
underplayed by the the main bustle of whisky for some time for
sweet smack of vanilla. whiskymaking activity, their top-selling blend
which is concentrated Highland Queen (see p136).
closer to the river More recently, this classic
GLENLOSSIE and itself. Glen Moray Speyside malt has been a
MANNOCHMORE Distillery stands far key filling in the newly
Elgin, Morayshire
from the Spey on the reconstructed blend Bailie
banks of the Lossie Nicol Jarvie (see p119). Glen
These two distilleries River on the western Moray was modernized in
lie just beyond Elgin edge of Elgin, the 1950s. A pair of new
and have worked beneath Gallow Hill stills were added, doubling
side by side, sharing where executions capacity, and, shortly after,
the same workforce, were carried out the distillery won a contract
since Mannochmore until the end of the to supply single malt to
was built in the Glenlivet 17th century. Like Japan’s All Nippon Airways.
1970s. Glenlossie was 12-Year-Old its sister distillery Since then, however, Glen
built a century earlier Glenmorangie, Moray has sunk back into
in 1876 by Glendronach’s Glen Moray was originally the shadows of its stable
former distillery manager, a brewery. mate, its fate forever to be
John Duff. From the start it Having brewed ale for over “brother of the more famous
was an efficient, self- 60 years, it was a small Glenmorangie.” The owners
contained unit with its own matter to take the process have certainly lavished a lot
reservoir to supply cold one step further and turn more time and money on
water to condense the spirit the beer into whisky. Glen their “glen of tranquillity”
and power the waterwheel. Moray was converted into than on Glen Moray. Yet,
There was a railroad siding a distillery in 1897 with mostly through supermarket
to connect to the line from buildings clustered around a sales, it remains a top-selling
Rothes to Elgin, and houses courtyard in the style of a introductory malt in the UK.
were supplied for Duff ’s traditional farmstead. The glen moray Classic 40% ABV
staff—employed not only to timing could have been Pale gold, smooth, light-
run the distillery but also to better, with Speyside already bodied with traces of
look after his herd of cattle, bristling with new distilleries oatmeal and shortbread
which were fed on draff eager to cash in on the late- Glen moray 12-year-old 40% ABV
from the distillery. Victorian whisky boom. As above, with sweeter, floral
Glenlossie was gobbled up Glen Moray survived the notes coming through.
by the giant DCL in 1919 ensuing crash at the start of glen moray 16-year-old 40% ABV
and over the years the the 20th century, but had A richer, more honeyed
number of stills has been spluttered to a halt by 1910. expression of Glen Moray.
glenlivet
As one Victorian visitor to the Glenlivet Distillery wrote in the late
1800s, “a more lonely spot in winter, or a more delightful one in
summer could not be found and, for those who like quietude and
rest, truly it is very far from the ‘madding crowd.’”
This sense of isolation remains George Smith was no doubt making

largely intact as you stare south whisky on the side at Upper
across an open bowl to the barren Drummin farm when he
hills and braes of Glenlivet beyond. established Glenlivet Distillery in
The romantic image is hard to 1824. As the first distiller to go
sustain once you turn to face legal in a glen dedicated to
the distillery, however. This is producing moonshine, he made
no lonesome farm distillery. a lot of enemies and had to
Today’s Glenlivet is a carry a pair of hair-trigger
substantial industrial unit, revolvers for his own protection.
clad in shiny, corrugated steel, Meanwhile others on Speyside
and with a large, steaming bolted the name “Glenlivet”
dark grains plant on site. on to their distilleries in the
Yet, in the history of Speyside, hope of a little reflected glory.
there are few words so evocative Glenlivet Smith began supplying
as Glenlivet. As Government 25-Year-Old Andrew Usher in Edinburgh,
troops attempted to clamp down who pioneered the idea of blended
on illicit Highland distilling from Scotch with his “Old Vatted
the late 19th century on, whisky Glenlivet,” launched in 1853. Soon
became a spirit of defiance. Nowhere afterward, Glenlivet slipped down the
was this more true than in Glenlivet, glen to its present site and increased in
where “there were not three persons,” scale. At the time of Smith’s death in
according to a local farmer, “who 1871, the distillery was producing
were not engaged directly or 4,000 gallons (18,200 liters) of whisky
indirectly in the trade.” a week. While other distilleries were
almost wholly anonymous, Glenlivet
Glenlivet was one of the first distilleries in
Speyside to turn legitimate, and operate had established a real identity for itself
as a legal, tax-paying whisky producer. —one that lives on to this day.
The Spey is Scotland’s longest
river, and gives its name to the
the nation’s foremost whisky-
producing region.
66 whiskey nations
gallons (5 million liters) ruined Castle of Rothes,

GLENROTHES of alcohol. The flipside and made the decision to
Rothes, Morayshire of being so popular with make whisky on the site.
www.glenrothes
the blenders was that Inevitably this led to disputes
whisky.com there was never any with Glenrothes as to who
spare Glenrothes to owned the water rights.
The small town of bottle as a single At some point it became
Rothes is strangely malt. This finally a fully fledged distillery, and
reticent about changed in 1987 registered as Glen Spey in
what it does best. when a 12-year- 1884. Three years later it was
It produces old was released, sold to the London-based gin
enough malt followed by the distiller Gilbeys in one of the
whisky to fill the first critically first moves into Scotch by a
equivalent of 50 acclaimed firm from the south. Years
million bottles a Vintage Malt later, Gilbey’s merged with
year, yet you in 1994. Justerini & Brooks, by which
wouldn’t know it Glenrothes the Glenrothes time Glen Spey had become
driving down the Select Reserve Select reserve 43% ABV a key ingredient in their top-
narrow High Street Sweeter on the nose selling blend J&B (see p137).
by day. Only by night do you than in the mouth, this malt Its 12-year-old malt is
get an idea of the scale of develops into a long, creamy, relatively rare.
production, as clouds of and seriously smooth dram Glen Spey 12-year-old 43% ABV
steam billow up from the on the tongue. A light, herbal Speyside with
town’s five distilleries. notes of vanilla ice-cream.
Among them, hidden in a
tree-lined gorge beside the GLEN SPEY
Rothes burn, is Glenrothes. GLENTAUCHERS
Rothes, Aberlour, Banffshire
Once established (see Mulben, Keith, Banffshire
below), Glenrothes became a Having decided to pull out
key filling in the Cutty Sark of the partnership behind Unlike many distilleries that
and Famous Grouse blends. Glenrothes in 1878 only went in search of a
The distillery expanded to (see below), James Stuart market once they were built,
keep pace, building a huge returned to Rothes to build Glentauchers was destined
new stillroom in pink granite a new distillery to add to his from the offset to supply
to house its eight stills. This Macallan a few years later. malt for Buchanan’s Blend
has since been increased to He owned an oatmeal mill (later known as Black &
10, giving an impressive on the opposite bank of the White, see p123). The
capacity of 1.1 million Rothes burn beneath the distillery was built in a
partnership between the
Glenrothes faltering start whisky baron James
Buchanan and the Glasgow-
Built in 1878 by James based spirits brokers
Stuart of Macallan Distillers, WP Lowrie in 1897 on the
Glenrothes almost collapsed at edge of the Craigellachie
the outset. An economic forest, just beyond Keith.
recession hit in the summer of Standing beside what is
that year, and Stuart pulled out now the A95 and with a
to concentrate on Macallan. His siding at the back that joined
partners, Robert Dick and Willie the main east-coast rail line
Grant, carried on, and the first from Aberdeen to Inverness,
spirit flowed on December 28, Glentauchers was certainly
1879. Somehow the pair staved well connected. Once
off bankruptcy through loans
Buchanan took over the
distillery completely in 1906,
from local supporters, and
its future looked secure so
within five years, Glenrothes long as Black & White
was turning a profit. But for Glenrothes Select continued to thrive. It
one lost season during World War I, Reserve 1975 suffered during the distillery
it kept working up until the start of closures of the 1980s, but
the Great Depression in the 1930s, when it fell silent. A few was rescued by new owners
years later, Prohibition ended, and Glenrothes was cranked in 1988. Today, as part of
back to life to capitalize on the American market. It has been Pernod Ricard, its main
distilling ever since. role is to supply malt for
Ballantines (see p119).
Imperial
Thomas Mackenzie built
Imperial in 1897, siting it
close by Dailuaine Distillery
near Aberlour. Its name was
intended to honor Queen
Victoria in her diamond
jubilee year, but sadly for
Mackenzie his impressive
red brick distillery proved
less durable than the British
Empire and fell silent within
six months. It was reopened
in 1919 by DCL (the Distillers
Company), but they promptly
closed it again because its
mighty stills produced too
much waste in the form of
draff. For the next 30 years
just the maltings operated.
It was not until a method Sons for £3,000, and ever Despite its proximity to the river,
of compressing the draff since then, much of the malt like all Speyside distilleries,
into cattle cake was found has disappeared into the Knockando uses water from a
Bell’s blend (see p120). There spring to make its whisky.
in the 1950s that Imperial’s
stills were fired up once are periodic bottlings of
again. Since then, it has Inchgower as a dense, mostly be found in William
experienced both creamy vanilla malt. Grant whiskies, such as
productive times and the recently launched
further silent periods. Monkey Shoulder.
In 2005 it was taken under KINInVIE
the wing of Pernod Ricard. Dufftown, Banffshire
KNOCKANDO
If few of the many Knockando, Morayshire
thousands of visitors to www.malts.com
INCHGOWER Glenfiddich Distillery each
Buckie, Banffshire year have heard of its sister The distillery was set up by
distillery Balvenie, virtually John Thompson in 1898 and
Inchgower is right on the none know of Kininvie, was run on a seasonal basis
edge of the region near Spey despite the fact that all as though it were an old-style
Bay and the town of Buckie, three share the same site at farm distillery that only
though in terms of style, it Dufftown. Kininvie is by far made whisky after the
produces a classic Speyside the smallest and began harvest. In other respects
malt. Originally the plant life in 1990 with the first Thompson was up with
was situated at Cullen and spirit flowing on July 4. all the latest technological
known as the Tochineal This being American advances, for Knockando
Distillery. It had been Independence Day was had electric lighting at
founded in 1824 by John probably no accident a time when most
Wilson, and it was his son since William Grant distilleries did not.
Alex who decided to move it & Sons are fiercely Sadly he was caught
a few miles west in 1867 to proud of being an in the speculative
escape a doubling of the independent family bubble that engulfed
rent by his landlady, the business. the whisky trade at
Countess of Seafield, who In reality Kininvie the start of the 20th
disapproved of distilleries. consists of little more century, and was
As a family business it than a stillroom, as forced to sell.
survived until the recession its washbacks and The new owners
of 1930. The stills remained other distillery were the London gin
cold for the next six years paraphernalia are distillers Gilbeys.
when the distillery was housed at Balvenie. Knockando has
bought by Buckie Town The result is a sweet, remained in their
Council for the princely sum floral malt with a hands since, though
of £1,000. Two years on, distinct note of Knockando Gilbeys is now under
they sold it to Arthur Bell & barley sugar. It can 12-Year-Old the Diageo umbrella.
The low, stone-built dunnage
warehouses at Knockdhu help it
to retain a traditional feel.
Until recently the entire Knockdhu’s An-Cnoc

production went into blends, KNOCKDHU Single Malt 40% ABV • This
is
particularly for J&B (see Knock, by Huntly, Aberdeenshire
a relatively full-bodied
p137). Since the distillery www.inverhouse.com
Speyside, with notes of
ceased malting its barley in heather honey and lemon
1968, the malt barns have Opened in 1894 in the village peel, named anCnoc after
hosted endless sales of Knock on the edge of the Gaelic for the nearby
conferences for the J&B Speyside, Knockdhu is small “black hill,” whose springs
global team. Whether its and traditional in style. It supply the water.
one-time salesman turned was the first of a handful of
film star David Niven ever distilleries acquired by Inver
came here for a spot of House Distillers in 1988. LINKWOOD
corporate bonding is unclear, The company has strived to Elgin, Morayshire
but the brand was certainly preserve the character of
big in the US by the time he Knockdhu by keeping its Whiskymakers tend to be
hit Hollywood in the 1930s. wooden washbacks, its worm conservative by nature and
J&B began to slip in the US tub, and granite, old-style adverse to change. Their
in the 1970s, but later surged dunnage warehouses. Of mantra of “if it ain’t broke,
in Spain, prompting a these, the most important is don’t fix it” was taken to
distillery visit from Mrs. the worm tub, which tends extremes by one distillery
Thatcher in 1985. The then to produce a richer, more manager at Linkwood in the
Prime Minister handed over meaty spirit than modern 1930s. He was convinced
the Queen’s Award for condensers that strip out that everything played its
Export and received the sulfur compounds with great part in forming the character
billionth bottle of J&B efficiency to give a fresher, of the whisky, and that
in return. clean-tasting spirit. nothing, not even a cobweb,
Knockando is an should be removed. The
Anglicized version of the poor man would be spinning
Gaelic Cnoc-an-Dhu, “dark in his grave if he could see
hillock,” which guards a what has happened to
bend in the Spey. Despite Linkwood since—not that
being so near the river, it the lack of spiders has had
draws its water from a spring any adverse effect on the
like all Speyside distilleries. quality of the whisky. It is a
In color it is noticeably pale, fine Speyside malt, much in
due to the use of American demand from blenders.
oak casks and a refusal to Named after Linkwood
use caramel to tint the House on the Seafield estate,
whisky and give an the distillery was established
impression of age. in 1821 by the estate
Knockando 12-year-old manager, Peter Brown, in
40% ABV• Light-bodied, almost what was then open country,
“Lowland” in style with a but is now within Elgin.
delicate, creamy texture in Today it is one of a cluster
the mouth and a trace of Knockdhu’s anCnoc of distilleries between the
toffee and hazelnuts. Single Malt town and the lower reaches
John duff, longmorn’s pioneer

John Duff had dedicated his life to making whisky before he set up
Longmorn on the road to Rothes from Elgin, but it was a circuitous
route, taking him from Scotland first to South Africa and then to the
US before returning home.
After a solid plentiful supplies of

grounding in distilling spring water, access
at Glendronach, to some of the best
where he was barley from the Laich
distillery manager for o’ Moray, a waterwheel
years, Duff initially to provide all the
left to run a hotel. power, and peat to kiln
Before long, however, the barley from the
he was back making nearby Mannoch hill.
whisky as John Duff The Benriach to Longmorn train was a It also had its own
shuttle service for ferrying whisky casks
& Co. at Glenlossie between the two sister distilleries.
station connected to
Distillery, which he the Great North of
set up with two partners in 1876. Scotland line, along which the raw
Twleve years later he found himself ingredients came in and the finished
in Cape Town with his family, and, whisky left. It cost £20,000 to build and
after failing to set up a distillery there, had four stills, producing spirit that,
he crossed the Atlantic to try his luck according to the National Guardian,
in the US. When that failed, he “jumped into favor with buyers from the
returned home in 1892, aged 50, to earliest day on which it was offered.”
be the manager at the Bon Accord In a word, Longmorn was well-
Distillery in Aberdeen, where he also conceived from the start, and its early
became a partner in a local wine success encouraged Duff to buy out his
and spirit merchants. partners and build Benriach next door
In 1894, having seen all sides of the in 1897. Unfortunately he was a major
trade and witnessed the potential for supplier to the Pattison brothers, and
Scotch whisky abroad, Duff felt the when they were forced out of business
timing was right for yet another and into jail in 1901 (see p142), Duff
distillery on Speyside. Longmorn had soon followed them into bankruptcy.
Longmorn remained in private hands until
the 1970s, when it was bought by Seagram;
it is now owned by Pernod Ricard.
70 whiskey nations
the MaCallan back story

The Macallan, with its famously sherried nose and rich mahogany
color, has become one of Scotland’s most highly rated single malts. It
was not a reputation formed overnight, however, for the Macallan
evolved slowly out of a small-scale 19th-century farm distillery.
Situated on the west bank The distillery remained more or

of the Spey, Macallan was less as it had been in 1896 until
originally called the Elchies after World War II, passing
Distillery. It was first licensed through family hands to Gordon
to Alexander Reid in 1824, Shiach, an intelligence officer
but was almost certainly who interrogated Herman
distilling before then to Goering at the Nuremberg
supply drovers who would trials. The distillery was
pass by on their way from completely rebuilt in the
Moray to the cattle markets 1950s, and by 1970 had
of Falkirk and Perth. As a trebled production to over
staging post, it was Macallan Eleganzia 1 million gallons (4.5 million
somewhere to gather before liters). By now stocks were
crossing the Spey and, no doubt, to being laid down in preparation for the
pick up a few casks for the journey. Macallan 10-Year-Old Single Malt,
Macallan was bought in 1892 by which was launched in 1978. Two years
Roderick Kemp, a wine merchant in later Allan Shiach took over at the
Elgin and former distiller at Talisker. distillery, while continuing his career as
He was determined to make the most a successful Hollywood scriptwriter. As
of Macallan, and six years later refused Allan Scott, his scripts include Castaway,
an offer of £80,000 to sell it. The bid Regeneration, and Don’t Look Now, in
came from its previous owners, two of which Donald Sutherland pours
whom set up Highland Distillers. That himself a generous slug of Macallan
company did eventually buy Macallan after making love to Julie Christie.
—nearly 100 years later in 1996, and Since its launch, the Macallan single
this time at a price of £180 million. malt has developed a loyal following.
The stills at Macallan have been
producing whisky for their respected and
popular single malt since the 1970s.
Longmorn 16-year-old
A beautifully balanced cask-
strength malt with a ripe,
floral scent and honeyed
texture that dries gently on
the long finish.
MACALLAN
Easter Elchies, Craigellachie
www.themacallan.com
Open to visitors
Since 2000, building on its

strong history (see over),
Macallan has launched a
number of new lines. For
older vintages there is the
Fine & Rare collection,
including a bottle from 1926,
which sold for £36,000 at
auction. For those wanting
The Macallan uses a mix of 1985. Since then the original a less heavily sherried
European and American ex- set of stills have been fired Macallan, the distillery
bourbon casks for maturation. again and the spirit released its Fine Oak
produced is vatted with that range in 2004. The
of the Spey that have never produced from the new stills. Macallan has always
received the recognition they Linkwood 12-year-old 40% ABV taken maturation very
are due. Far more attention A supple and complex malt seriously. Wood is
is given to those upstream at with the scent of fresh-cut bought “on the tree”
Rothes, such as Macallan grass and orchards. Sweet in Spain, where it is
and Glenfiddich. and then savory on the seasoned, turned
Under Brown, Linkwood tongue, finishing long with a into butts, and
was remarkably self-sufficient, satisfying smoky twist at the filled with sherry
growing its own barley in the end. There are a host of in Jerez. After a
adjoining fields and having older expressions available few years, the
its own cattle to gobble up from independent bottlers. butts are shipped
the draff produced in the to Speyside and
process. It was rebuilt in the filled with
1870s by Brown’s son LONGMORN Macallan whisky.
William, who doubled the Elgin, Morayshire
For Fine Oak, a
output to 50,000 gallons mix of American
(227,500 liters) a year and From the distillery’s outset and European
re-christened the business (see p69), Longmorn has oak is used.
the Linkwood-Glenlivet maintained a reputation Macallan SHERRY Macallan
Distillery Co. Ltd. The with blenders, and so has OAK 40% ABV • The 10-Year-Old
company remained been in almost constant original 10-year-
independent until 1933, production since the late old has a mid-amber color
when it finally sold out 19th century—unlike and a scent of spice, orange
to DCL for £80,000— its sister distillery peel, and fruit cake. The
far more than most malt Benriach, which color and intensity of aroma
distilleries were worth struggled from the deepen with older
at the time. start (see p52). Having expressions, which include
Having radically remained in private 12, 18, 25, and 30 year-old
changed its layout in hands for over 60 bottlings. The 12-year-old
the early 1960s, years, Longmorn Eleganzia is aged in Oloroso
Linkwood gained a became part of and Fino sherry casks.
whole new distillery Seagram in the Macallan FINE OAK 40% ABV
alongside it with two 1970s. It has now Available in a raft of ages
pairs of stills in 1971. passed to Pernod from 8 to 30 years, this is a
The operations ran Ricard, who have lighter style of Macallan,
in tandem until the started to promote with notes of coconut and
Victorian stillhouse Longmorn Longmorn as a single vanilla to complement the
was closed down in 16-Year-Old malt in its own right. richer sherry flavors.
72 whiskey nations
MILTONDUFF
Elgin, Morayshire
With plentiful supplies of

water and some of the best
barley grown on Speyside,
the area south of Elgin was
said to be home to over 50
illicit stills during the 19th
century. One of the first to
go legal and take out a
license was Miltonduff in
1823. It is claimed that the
distillery stands on the site of Ballantine’s blend (see p119). Mortlach Distillery was founded
an old mill that belonged to This role keeps the six stills on the site of a well where it is
Pluscarden Abbey, where the busy pumping out over 1.1 said moonshine used to be made.
monks made ale of such million gallons (5 million
sublime quality that “it filled liters) of whisky a year, with a railroad siding
the abbey with unutterable leaving little available for connecting it to the main
bliss.” Whether the monks bottling as a single malt. line, electric light, and a
ever went further and Examples do appear from series of hydraulic lifts.
distilled their beer into independent bottlers such The distillery’s most
whisky is unclear, but they as Gordon & Macphail famous employee was
certainly used the same (see p52), along with the odd, William Grant, who spent
spring-fed water as the extremely rare bottle nearly 20 years as Mortlach’s
distillery. This flows into of Mosstowie. This curiosity, loyal bookkeeper, then
the Black Burn, which was which used special Lomond manager before handing
blessed by an Abbot in the stills, was begun by Hiram in his notice in 1886 to
15th century. Walker in the 1960s in an strike out on his own at
For over 60 years, ever attempt to broaden their Glenfiddich (see p58).
since the Canadian distillers repertoire. The experiment This was the second distillery
Hiram Walker took over the was abandoned in 1981. in town and was quickly
distillery in 1936, Miltonduff followed by a stampede
has been a key ingredient in of others. Today there
MORTLACH are seven distilleries here,
spirit of speyside Dufftown, Keith, Banffshire
making Dufftown the
unchallenged whisky
Mortlach was established by capital of Speyside.
James Findlater in 1823 on Mortlach was effectively
the edge of Dufftown rebuilt in the 1960s, though
around a well that had been much of its outside character
used to make moonshine, or as a late-Victorian distillery
so it was said. Seven years has been preserved, along
later Findlater was forced to with the use of an old-
sell up for a mere £270 and fashioned worm tub, which
there followed long periods helps give the malt a richer
Visitors to Glenfiddich
of inactivity. When it was flavor than many Speysides.
owned by J&J Grant of Glen Mortlach 16-year-old 43% ABV
Spirit of Speyside is an Grant, the distilling Well-rounded with notes of
annual autumn festival held equipment was removed and spice and a toffee sweetness
in late September and early the disused granary given that finishes dry.
October, championing the over to the local Free Church
local drink. Among the of Scotland in which to hold
events are whisky tastings services. Later Mortlach SPEYBURN
and auctions, as well as became a brewery until it Rothes, Aberlour, Morayshire
guided tours of the whisky was finally converted back www.inverhouse.com
country. There’s also food, into a distillery by George
music, and of course Cowie in 1897, who turned Yet another classic Victorian
traditional ceilidhs in the it into one of the largest in distillery designed by Charles
evenings. Details are the Highlands by doubling Doig (see p59), Speyburn was
available on the website the number of stills to six. built in 1897, as Queen
www.spiritofspeyside.com. Within a year it was also Victoria was entering her
probably the most modern, twilight years. Despite not
being finished by the end

of that year, the distillery ROSEISLE
manager ordered the stills In 2007, Diageo announced they were building a new $81-
to be fired up. With snow million distillery on Speyside at Roseisle near the Moray Firth,
swirling in from the outside, between Elgin and Forres. Having talked up the huge potential
as the stillroom lacked doors for Scotch in countries such as China and India for some time,
or windows, and the workers
the whisky industry was finally putting its money where its
buttoned up against the cold,
the first spirit began to flow. mouth is. With an annual capacity of 2.2 million gallons (10
This was all to have at least million liters) of alcohol from 14 stills, Roseisle is no boutique
one butt bearing the date of distillery. As the first of any scale since Seagram built Allt
the Queen’s a’Bhaine in 1975, it will be Diageo’s largest malt distillery by far.
Diamond Jubilee. After the grim years of whisky lochs and distillery closures in
The distillery the early 1980s, it is a heartening declaration of faith in the
stands on the edge future of Scotch whisky. It is also an example of real long-term
of Rothes in a planning, since it will be 2021 at the earliest before the first
narrow tree-lined drop of Roseisle goes into deluxe blends such as Johnnie
glen. As a result, Walker Black Label. This is likely to be its main role, though
Doig had to there is bound to be some Roseisle set aside for a single malt.
adapt his design
and build
upward to create survivors that make up so George Christie, a Glasgow-
a distillery on many of the distilleries in based whisky man. Sadly the
three floors, with these parts. Only the discreet funds ran out and the
its elegant modern smoke stack gives venture had to be sold to a
pagoda roof away its age. Speyside Swiss firm four years after it
peaking above opened in 1991 with a went into production. Since
the pines and solitary pair of stills able to 2000 it has been back in
clearly visible produce 132,000 gallons Scottish hands, with the
from the road to (600,000 liters) a year, Christie family still involved,
Elgin. The result making it the second- producing a delicate 12-year-
Speyburn is one of the smallest distillery in the old with pronounced cereal
10-Year-Old most picturesque region. It was no overnight notes and a slight trace of
distilleries from creation, however, and took smoke on the tongue.
the period. Unlike many, almost 30 years to build
it survived the 1960s stone by stone on the
unscathed, partly because insistence of its owner
the cramped setting made
any attempted makeover Speyburn’s stills remain
difficult to achieve. It fell intact, but the distillery
silent during the 1980s when no longer has its
the “whisky loch” was full to original maltings.
the brim, and remained so
until bought by Inver House
in the early 1990s.
speyburn’s malt whisky
The majority of the malt is
tankered away to Airdrie,
where Inver House is based,
though what is left is aged on
site for bottling as a delicately
fruity, aromatic 10-year-old
and an altogether richer,
more complex 25-year-old.
SPEYSIDE
Glen Tromie, Kingussie,
Inverness-shire
www.speysidedistillery.co.uk
At first sight, this tiny,

boutique distillery could be
one of those late-Victorian
74 whiskey nations
official bottling was not until

strathisla’s beginnings 1993. The distillery was
What drew the early distillers to a particular site was the same
sympathetically modernized
in the 1960s when it was the
as what attracted the brewers before them—a reliable source
headquarters of Gilbey’s
of good, clear water. In the 12th century, Dominican monks in
Highland Distilleries.
Keith used a well that was fed by the Broomhill spring to brew
a potent heather ale. Whether they ever distilled the ale into
something stronger is anyone’s guess, but it is one theory TAMDHU
about how distilling came to Scotland. What is known for sure
Knockando, Aberlour
is that since 1786 the well has been used to make whisky at
www.edrington.com
Strathisla—though the distillery was originally
called Milltown. It began as a tiny operation, In 1863, the Strathspey
with a pair of stills able to produce just 40 railroad opened from
gallons (150 liters) of spirit at a time. The Craigellachie on the Spey
name was changed to Strathisla in the to Boat of Garten and soon
19th century, and the distillery was distilleries were springing
bought by William Longmore. The up along the line like
distillery was destroyed by fire homesteads across the
in the 1870s, but rebuilt American Midwest. The
by William’s son-in-law.
train chugged upstream for
30 miles (48 km), stopping at
Strathisla suffered two fires in all the tiny stations en route,
the 1870s, but was rebuilt into including one for the
the distillery you see today. private Knockando
House. Knockando’s
old station building is
supplies of malt whisky. now the reception
STRATHISLA Strathisla has been the center at Tamdhu,
Keith, Banffshire
spiritual home of Chivas which began distilling
Open to visitors
Regal ever since, and most in 1897. The following
of the production disappears year it joined
With its high-gabled roofs into the famous blend. Glenrothes and
topped with twin pagodas, Strathisla 12-year-old 43% ABV
and its speckled stone walls As a single malt, Strathisla is
like nougat, Strathisla is one a soft-centered, syrupy The elegantly
of the most handsome whisky, with fruitcake notes. shaped twinned-
distilleries in the Highlands, pagoda roof of
and boasts a venerable history Strathisla was
(see above). Before 1900 the STRATHMILL built in the 1870s.
whisky was available by the Keith, Banffshire
bottle from wine and spirit
merchants, who bought it in For most of the 19th century,
5-gallon (23-liter) stone jars the Strathisla mill in Keith
direct from the distillery, while had been milling oatmeal,
bars sold it on tap from glass though it may well have
decanters that were engraved occasionally produced
“Strathisla Whisky.” something a little stronger
To raise money for on the side. In 1891 it began
rebuilding following fire officially producing whisky
damage, William Longmore as the Glenisla-Glenlivet
& Co. was floated, which distillery—a name that
allowed in outside investors. stretched credibility, what
Eventually this meant ceding with Glenlivet being 24 miles
control to a crooked theatrical (39 km) away by road. Four
impresario, George Pomeroy, years later it was bought by
who was jailed for tax the London gin distiller
evasion in 1949. A year later Gilbey and was re-christened
it was sold to a church Strathmill.
organist from Aberdeen for While most of the output
£70,000. The organist was has always gone into blends,
simply a front for Seagram, a first Strathmill single malt
who had recently bought was released as early as
Chivas Brothers and needed 1909, though the second
Bunnahabhain to form
Highland Distilleries Co.,
which is now part of the
Edrington Group, which
also owns Macallan.
After 20 years lying idle
in the first half of the
20th century, Tamdhu was
brought back to life and then
expanded in the 1970s into
a modern six-still distillery,
which uniquely malts all its
own barley on site.
heyday of Glenlivet was Tomintoul, a near-neighbor of the

TOMINTOUL aleady long past when this more famous Glenlivet, is the
distillery was built in 1965. highest distillery in Speyside.
Kirkmichael,
Ballindalloch, Grampian Situated 5 miles (8 km) from
www.tomintouldistillery.co.uk the village of Tomintoul, it is
the highest distillery in the TORMORE
Of all the Speyside Highlands at 1,150 ft (350 m). Grantown North Spey, Moray
distilleries that bolted the The village was a staging www.Tormore.com
magic word “Glenlivet” onto post on the old military road
their names in the from Corgaff to Fort George, After the spate of distilleries
hope of added and was built after the that flooded the region at
luster, Tomintoul- Jacobite Rising of 1745 the end of the 19th century,
Glenlivet has the (see p45) in an attempt to there was a long wait for the
best case, being a bring the Highlands next one. It was
virtual next-door to heel. At first it was not until 1960
neighbor. Yet little more than a that Tormore was
the real village inn, where built on Speyside.
travelers would rest The design,
and numb the cold by architect
with whisky at a Sir Albert
penny a dram. Richardson,
By 1823, it had president of the
its first licensed Royal Academy,
distillery called was nothing if
Delnabo. not bold, and the
The Tomintoul original drawings
Distillery was even featured a
sited on the chimney stack
Glenlivet estate shaped like a giant
beside the Avon whisky bottle and
River to take Tormore a clock that chimed
advantage of the 12-Year-Old Highland Laddie
crystal clear water on the hour. The
from the Ballantruan spring. chimney was rejected by
It was first bottled as a single the clients—Shenley
malt in 1972, though its Industries of America—
main role was to supply but the clock survived into
whisky for blending by the final build, as did the
parent company Whyte & massive stillhouse, which
Mackay. Now owned by houses eight stills.
Angus Dundee distillers, After years as a fairly
Tomintoul’s range of anonymous blending malt
bottlings is set to increase. and key ingredient in the
Tomintoul 10-year-old 40% ABV Long John brand (see p141),
A gentle, vaguely spicy malt, Tormore has more recently
with nut and cinnamon notes. rediscovered itself as a single.
Tomintoul 16-year-old 40% ABV Tormore 12-year-old
A more sweet-centered 40% ABV• A caramel-scented,
texture in the mouth than the creamy whisky, with some
10-year-old expression. light spicy notes.
76 whiskey nations
Highlands and Islands

As you drive northward from Stirling, leaving behind the Lowlands
and entering the Scottish Highlands, the scenery suddenly changes
dramatically. If it feels as though you are entering a different world,
imagine what it was like before paved roads and gas stations.
The mountainous landscape may have north of Glasgow, to Old Pulteney, just
lost some of its stature in the last 400 south of John O’Groats, or to Highland
million years, having once been as high Park, on Orkney, if you want to stretch
as the Himalayas, but it is still a real and it even further. Taste these three whiskies
inspiring force of nature. blind and you would be hard pressed to
From the outset, this was prime say they were from the same region.
whiskymaking country. There was no
shortage of water, and fuel was plentiful A Miscellany of Styles
in the form of peat. If the quality of the Those distilleries designated “Highland”
barley was somewhat poorer than that have never had the critical mass to create
grown along the fertile east coast, there a house style. There are clusters of them
was an added incentive to distil it into on the Black Isle; the northeast corner of
something more valuable, something Aberdeenshire and the Perthshire glens
powerful enough to numb the depressing are dotted with them, but there has never
effects of a long Highland winter. been the concentration that there is in
Whenever the authorities tried to Speyside or on Islay. As a result,
suppress unlicensed whisky, they only Highland distilleries have usually evolved
added to its allure. For a ferociously in isolation—they were there to satisfy a
independent Highlander of the 18th local demand and any passing trade.
century, this forbidden fruit suddenly Perhaps “Highland” whiskies can only
tasted all the sweeter. It was there to be defined by what they are not. They
toast the Jacobite “King O’er the Water” tend not to use heavily peated malt like
and raise two fingers to the bloated Islay, though they often carry more of a
Hanoverian on the throne. smoky fragrance than Speyside. Unlike
The trouble with the Highlands as a Lowland whiskies, which tend toward
whisky region is its vastness. It extends dryness on the tongue, Highland
from Glengoyne, half an hour’s drive whiskies are richer and more robust.
Plentiful supplies of water and peat mean
there is a high concentration of distilleries
in the Highlands and Islands.
scotland: Highlands and Islands 77
Highlands and islands

DISTILLERIES
Dewar’s White
Label Scotch
Whisky
the distance, they need not

have worried. Aberfeldy
single malt is voluptuous
and sweet, and becoming
increasingly available as 12
and 18-year-old expressions.
ARDMORE
Kennethmont, Aberdeenshire
By the time its creator

ABERFELDY William Teacher died in
Aberfeldy, Perthshire
1876, Teacher’s Highland
www.dewarswow.com
Cream had become a
Open to visitors
popular blend in Scotland,
with its own network of
Most of the malt whisky bars, known as Teacher’s
distilleries that sprang up in Dram Shops, in Glasgow.
late-Victorian Scotland were His son Adam expanded
built as an act of faith, in the the business at home and
hope that there would be a At Aberfeldy, there are eight large abroad until he felt the need
ready market among the big washbacks made of Siberian larch, for his own distillery, to ensure
blenders once the spirit with two additional state-of-the-art a steady supply of malt for
began trickling off the still. stainless-steel washbacks nearby. his blend. At some point in
The story of Aberfeldy the 1890s, he stayed at Leith
is rather different. It was from where—so legend has Hall, a fine Georgian house
established in the Perthshire it—he walked to Perth in
town by John Dewar & Sons 1828, with his eyes set on Ardmore is one of Scotland’s
in 1898 and its role—then as making his fortune. More biggest distilleries, and most of
now—was to supply malt for importantly, the chosen site its malt is used for blending.
the firm’s top-selling blend, also had a good consistent
Dewar’s White Label. source of water, as well as a
Unless the brand falls from railroad link to Dewar &
grace as the most popular Sons’ head office in Perth.
Scotch in the United States, Aberfeldy’s village elders
Aberfeldy’s purpose in life had grown up in the days of
is unlikely to change. illicit whiskymaking and had
The site for the distillery later witnessed the town’s
was chosen partly for first licensed distillery close
sentimental reasons—it was for good in 1867. If they had
close to the bothy where doubts about Dewar’s venture
John Dewar was born and and whether it would last
78 whiskey nations
by Kennethmont, years, at a time when

in the northeast of whisky sales were deep BALBLAIR
Aberdeenshire, in the doldrums. Edderton, Tain, Ross-shire
and found a suitable Both the distillery www.inverhouse.com
site nearby, with and the family firm
its own source of managed to survive The original Balblair was
spring water. intact until 1976, built in 1790, making it the
The result was when the company second-oldest working
Ardmore (named was bought out by distillery in Scotland,
after the Teachers’ Allied Distillers. By according to the claims of its
ancestral home on this time, it had current owners, Inver House.
the west coast), expanded—there In truth, Balblair moved
which was finished were now eight stills, from its original site in 1872,
in 1898, a year with a production but only by a stone’s throw
before Adam died. Ardmore of 1 million gallons and still with the Ross family,
One of the early Highland (4.5 million liters) who had been in charge
advertisements for Single Malt a year. Today, the almost since day one.
“Teacher’s Old Ardmore Distillery The decision to move was
Scotch Whiskies” shows is owned by the makers of to allow for the
Ardmore as a huge industrial Jim Beam, in the US. expansion of the
distillery, right beside the Occasional bottlings of distillery and to site
tracks on the main Aberdeen- a smoky, oily single malt it right beside the
to-Inverness line. It was appear, but Ardmore’s railroad line.
ambitious in scale, but left principal role remains that After three
the business saddled with of supplying malt for blends generations, the
punitive interest charges for —notably Teacher’s. Ross family line
petered out
Dewar’s world of whisky at aberfeldy and Balblair
was acquired by
After an almost $4 million refit in 2000, Aberfeldy’s new US Alexander Cowan
owners, Bacardi, reopened the distillery as the all-singing, all- in 1894. Cowan Balblair 1979
dancing “Dewar’s World of Whisky.” Visitors receive the full promptly rebuilt it Single Malt
brand experience, as well as an insight into the life of the into pretty much
Edwardian whisky baron Tommy Dewar. Within the exhibition, what you can see today from
there is a re-creation of his London office and of the Perth the east coast train line.
blending room, circa 1929. Outside, standing guard over the
Over the years, the malt
has played its part in many
distillery is a life-size statue of the famous Pipe Major, whose
blends, notably Bells, Whyte
image appears on every bottle of “White Label.” & Mackay, and—more
The distillery gets a little lost in all of this, though the view recently—Ballantine’s.
from the still room is definitely worth seeing. In summer, when Balblair has recently been
the weather is fine, the shutters are pulled up, leaving the relaunched as a vintage malt,
room open to the elements, so cool air can blow in and mix in much the same vein as
with the heat radiating off the stills. To underline the fact that Glenrothes—even the squat
this is all about the blend, at the end of the tour, visitors are bottles are similarly shaped.
given a dram of White Label. You can also try the silky-textured
single malt, with its aromas of pear drops and vanilla.
BEN NEVIS
The visitor center
Lochy Bridge, Fort William
at Aberfeldy is a
celebration of the www.bennevisdistillery.com
Dewar’s brand. Open to visitors
The west coast’s island

distilleries have tended to
flourish, while those on the
mainland opposite are few
and far between. When Glen
Lochy closed for good in
1983, Ben Nevis became the
only distillery in Fort William
and the most northerly one
on the west coast.
Ben Nevis was founded
beside Loch Linnhe by
Blair athol’s association with bell’s
When Arthur Bell bought Blair Athol Distillery in 1933,

a year after it had to shut, it was the start of a close
association. Blair Athol was a key component of the Bell’s
blend (see p120), and in 1970 another pair of stills was added
and production was cranked up by 300 percent, as Bell’s
sought to increase its market share. Some in the industry felt
Bell’s was working its stills too hard and was causing heavier,
unpleasant compounds to rise up the neck and into the
condensers, thereby adversely affecting the spirit. Bell’s
attained its goal, but by the 1980s, had conceded its Scottish
market leadership to Famous Grouse.
Subsequently, Bell’s became embroiled in one of the most
bitter takeover battles in the industry’s history, when it was
Nestled at the foot of Ben Nevis, acquired in 1985 by Guinness (which later merged with Grand
Britain’s highest mountain, is the
Met to become Diageo, the present owners).
distillery of the same name.
Since the mid-1980s, life at Blair Athol has calmed down
considerably. Production has settled at around 8,400 gallons
“Long John” Macdonald in
(38,000 liters) a week. Meanwhile, Bell’s
1825. By the 1880s, when
has been turned into an 8-year-old
the distillery was producing
150,000 gallons (680,000 blend. It is still a big brand in
liters) a year, the Macdonald South Africa and the UK, where
family had their own fleet it shares the lead position with
of steamers to carry the Famous Grouse.
whisky down the loch. They
also had their own farm, Comedian Eric Morecambe (left)
sawmill, and workshops, presents football manager Don
which, along with the Revie with a bottle of Bell’s in
distillery, employed some the 1970s, the brand’s heyday.
230 people. The farm was
integrally involved, with
barley at one end and 200 (meaning “burn of the
head of cattle at the other to BLAIR ATHOL otter”). In an area heaving
eat up the draff produced. Pitlochry, Perthshire with illicit stills, business
The whisky was called www.discovering-distilleries.com
proved tough for this
“Long John’s Dew of Ben Open to visitors
licensed tax-paying distillery,
Nevis,” a name that was to and Aldour soon closed.
resurface years later as a When the Perthshire town In 1826, Alexander
popular blend owned by of Pitlochry was little more Connacher resurrected the
Whitbread. In 1981, the than a village, and long distillery, calling it Blair
brewer bought the distillery before the Victorian tourists Athol, even though it was
outright, owning it until they first arrived, John Stewart some distance south of the
decided to get out of Scotch and Robert Robertson village of Blair Atholl.
whisky altogether a decade opened the Aldour Distillery Whether the spelling was
later. Since then Ben Nevis here in 1798. The name came different by accident or by
has belonged to the Japanese from the Gaelic allt dour design is unclear.
drinks giant Nikka. During the second half of
Today, the distillery Much of the Blair Athol 12-Year-Old the 19th century, it belonged
incorporates “The Legend produced is consumed here at the to Peter Mackenzie & Co.
of the Dew of Ben Nevis” distillery, by the 30,000 visitors and had close ties with the
visitor center and it is one of who turn up each year. Perth blender Arthur Bell &
the few where you can buy Sons. Bell steadfastly refused
your own cask of malt whisky to divulge the recipe for his
and have it kept under bond blends, except to say that
in the warehouse until it is they included whiskies from
ready for bottling. Over 15 Glenlivet, Stirlingshire, and
years a sherry butt of Ben Pitlochry. The latter was
Nevis will have lost about a almost certainly Blair Athol.
fifth of its contents through Some Blair Athol malt is
evaporation, leaving enough bottled today as a dark, rich,
for around 600 bottles. plummy 12-year-old.
80 whiskey nations
CLYNELISH
Brora, Sutherland
www.discovering-distilleries.com
Open by appointment only
Established in 1819 by the

1st Duke of Sutherland (see
below), Clynelish was first
rented to James Harpur,
from Midlothian, and then
in 1846 to George Lawson,
who expanded the distillery
by adding a new kiln and a
new set of stills.
During the salmon season, making a peat-soaked, Islay- One of the most northerly
trade was brisk, with hordes style whisky that was much distilleries in Scotland, Clynelish
of fishermen sipping flasks in demand by blenders. was completely rebuilt in 1967.
of whisky on the banks of For a while, Brora and the
the Brora River, the town’s “new” Clynelish bubbled on a good day the views
main tourist attraction. away in tandem, until the from the still room can be
In 1896, Clynelish was former was shut down truly magnificent.
transformed into a classic for good in 1983. You Clynelish 14-year-old 46% ABV
late-Victorian distillery, can still see it more or This is relatively rare and has
with a pair of pagoda less intact; though, with a fragrant, maritime style, a
roofs and an enclosed most of its guts ripped whiff of smoke, and a unique
courtyard. It was state out, it appears rather waxiness on the palate.
of the art, except for empty and forlorn.
the lack of electricity. Traditionalists may
Clynelish became find it more pleasing DALMORE
the “old” Clynelish on the eye than the Alness, Ross-shire
when it was shut down plate-glass 1960s unit www.thedalmore.com
in 1967 and a brash, next door, but it was Open to visitors
box-shaped “new” probably cramped
Clynelish sprang up and drafty to work in. The name Dalmore is part
alongside it. Two It is unlikely anyone Gaelic and part Norse and
years later, the old at the “new” Clynelish means “the big meadowland.”
distillery was back. Distillery would swap The distillery was set up in
Operating under the their warm well-lit 1839 on the banks of the
name Brora Distillery, Clynelish space for one in the Cromarty Firth, and looks
it was charged with 14-Year-Old “old” building. Besides, out across the water to the
Black Isle, where some of
dissipation and vice the best barley in Scotland
can be found. With good-
The 1st Duke of Sutherland was a quality grain, no shortage
landowner on an epic scale, with of peat, and water from the
estates that stretched right across nearby Alness River, the site
the northern Highlands. Keen to was well chosen.
entice his crofting tenants off the Dalmore took a while to
land, he started a series of ventures, get into its stride, however.
including a salt factory and a brick Its founder, Alexander
works. In 1819, he added a distillery, Matheson, lasted less than a
Clynelish, on the outskirts of Brora. decade, and his successor,
The duke’s other reason for Mrs. Margaret Sutherland,
building a licensed distillery was to had other engagements, to
wean his tenants off moonshine. 1st Duke of Sutherland judge from her job title as
According to his land commissioner, “sometime distiller.”
James Loch, this had caused “every species of deceit, vice, This all changed in 1886,
idleness, and dissipation.” If the people would not sober up when Dalmore was bought
and leave the land, then they needed encouraging. In the same by the local Mackenzie
year Clynelish was built, 250 crofts were burned down in the family, who were soon
Highland Clearances, and it is claimed that 15,000 tenants were supplying James Whyte and
“persuaded” to make room for sheep on the Sutherland estates. Charles Mackay, in Glasgow,
with malt for their blends.
to a creamy texture and fruit-

the americans
cake notes on the tongue.
are coming
The Dalmore 21-year-old 43%
In 1905, Dalwhinnie was Ripe and floral on the
ABV l
bought by Cook & nose, with a rich, nutty, spicy
Bernheimer, the largest character in the mouth.
distilling company in the
US. This was the first US
venture into Scotch whisky DALWHINNIE
and it fueled industry fears Dalwhinnie, Inverness-shire
that this was the start of a Picturesquely set on the banks of www.discovering-distilleries.com
giant takeover bid. Flying the Cromarty Firth, Dalmore looks
Open to visitors
the Stars and Stripes above out toward the Black Isle.
their warehouse in Leith can Just past Drumochter Pass,
have done nothing to allay eccentric is the way their right beside the A9, is one
those fears. With US necks have been abruptly cut of the highest whisky
Prohibition, however, off, like those at Cragganmore, distilleries in Scotland.
Dalwhinnie slipped safely on Speyside. Whether this Dalwhinnie lies in an empty,
back into Scottish hands was by accident or by design windswept bowl 1,073 ft
in 1919. is unclear, but they certainly (327 m) above sea level.
seem to work and no one has Photographs often show the
since dared tinker with the distillery half-buried in snow,
The bond between the shape whenever the stills and tour guides tell of the
distillery and the firm of have needed replacement. time the workers once had
blenders has endured ever Beside the stills and the to crawl from their cottages
since, being formalized in gleaming brass spirits safe, via top-floor windows to get
1960, when Dalmore there is a giant control to work, such were the drifts
officially became part of console that could have come that day. In truth, the snow
Whyte & Mackay. from a 1950s sci-fi movie. has been much less reliable
During World War I, the The Victorian feel of the of late, as visitors to the
distillery was used as a place distillery is enhanced by the country’s ski resorts will
to prepare mines, when a dark paneling in the offices readily confirm.
contingent of the US Navy above the visitor center, Yet, thanks to the wind-
was stationed here. It which came from an old chill factor, Dalwhinnie
survived unscathed and, shooting lodge that was can claim to be one of the
despite a major expansion in being pulled down on the coldest inhabited places in
the 1960s, the two-story Black Isle. There is also the Britain, with a mean annual
stone buildings retain their use of the Mackenzie’s family temperature of just 43ºF
solid Victorian feel. crest, with its 12-point stag’s (6ºC)—perfect conditions for
The three spirit stills are head, on the Dalmore label. making whisky.
clad in copper cooling The Dalmore 12-year-old 40% The water that feeds the
jackets, and one of them ABV lA distinct sherried nose, distillery is equally chilled,
dates back to 1874. What in keeping with its polished coming from the Allt an t-
makes them look even more mahogany color, gives way Sluic spring, 2,000 ft (610 m)
Despite Dalwhinnie’s apparent

isolation, it has always had vital
transportation links close by.
82 whiskey nations
up in the Drumochter Hills.

Having cold, pure water was
crucial to John Grant, Alex
Mackenzie, and George
Sillar, who established what
was originally the Strathspey
Distillery here in 1897.
Equally important was the
proximity of the railroad
and the Great North Road,
which passed right in front
of the distillery at the time.
This allowed easy access
for the raw ingredients
coming in and the filled
casks going out.
Within a year, Strathspey
had been sold and renamed with the number of stills Etradour is Scotland’s smallest
Dalwhinnie. After that, the doubling or tripling. In the distillery. The whisky is made here
distillery was in American process, whiskymaking lost by hand by just three men.
hands for 14 years at the some of its charm, as it
beginning of the 20th became apparent just how SS Politician in 1941, an event
century (see page 81). Then, far this industry had come that inspired the novel
in 1919, it was acquired by from its artisan roots. Whisky Galore by Compton
the blenders Macdonald Anyone feeling nostalgic Mackenzie (see p140).
Greenlees, who sold it on to to see how whisky emerged That the distillery has
the Distillers Company, who from the farm should head survived into the 21st
(as Diageo) still own it today. for the hills beyond the century suggests it was
From the early 1920s, Perthshire town of Pitlochry simply overlooked by its big-
Dalwhinnie was a key filling to find Scotland’s smallest industry bosses. Now back
for the Black & White blend. working distillery. in independent hands, its
In fact, it was the brand’s Founded in 1823, dollhouse size is very much
spiritual home until it Edradour seems hardly prized as a virtue.
was picked to be one of to have changed at all Edradour 10-year-old 40% ABV
Diageo’s “Classic Malts.” since, with its rough, Clean peppermint nose with
Dalwhinnie is a true whitewashed walls giving a trace of smoke; richer,
Highland thoroughbred, the building the feel of nutty flavors on the tongue.
with a dense creamy a farmstead.
texture, thanks in It fills just 12
part to the use of casks of whisky a FETTERCAIRN
old-fashioned week from its tiny Laurencekirk, Kincardineshire
copper worms to stills, to produce a Open to visitors
condense the spirit. raft of different
These sit in outdoor ages and finishes Despite the abundance of
tanks, steaming down the line for good-quality barley, there are
away like giant hot its owner, Andrew very few distilleries along
tubs in the cold air. Symington, who the east coast of Scotland
Dalwhinnie bought the distillery south of Aberdeenshire. One
15-year-old 43% ABV
Dalwhinnie
in 2002 from the lone survivor, in the Mearns
Sweet, aromatic, 15-Year-Old
drinks company of Kincardineshire, is
and subtly infused Pernod Ricard. Fettercairn, which was an
with smoke, this complex Edradour played a bit part old grain mill converted to
malt is thick on the tongue. in the House of Lords blend, distilling in 1823. The village
one of many smuggled into itself stands below the Cairn
the United States during o’Mount, the high, hump-
EDRADOUR Prohibition. Later, it was backed hill that guards the
Pitlochry, Perthshire
a signature malt in King’s old road over the Grampian
www.edradour.co.uk Ransom, a super-deluxe Mountains to Deeside.
Open to visitors
blend from William Whitely, After various false starts
who bought the distillery in and different owners, the
A few new distilleries were 1933. It was the world’s most Fettercairn Distillery Co.
built during the postwar expensive whisky when a was formed in 1887, with Sir
boom for blended Scotch, consignment of 200,000 John Gladstone as chairman.
but many more expanded, bottles went down with the His son, William, was the
Liberal Prime Minister who century, though it was only On the distillery tour, visitors
enshrined the “angels’ share” bought by William Teacher are shown the old floor
in law, this being the 2 & Sons in 1960. maltings, where, until quite
percent of spirit that is lost It began life in 1826 as recently, the barley was
through evaporation from Glendronach Distillery, a spread out and laboriously
the casks each year, and partnership of local farmers turned by hand. All the
which distillers would no and traders run by James washbacks are of Oregon
longer be taxed on. Allardice. The business was pine, and the copper stills
Fast-forward to the present still going strong when the have been kept true to the
and Fettercairn is now part great whisky writer Alfred original 19th-century design.
of the Indian corporation Barnard visited in the 1880s. Even the dunnage warehouses,
United Breweries (UB Group), He described the distillery, with their traditional earthen
who bought it along with nestled among rolling hills floors, are evocative of a
then owners Whyte beside the Dronach simpler, bygone era.
& Mackay in 2007. Burn, as “quaint
and picturesque.”
Glendronach was GLEN GARIOCH
GLENCADAM producing 50,000 Oldmeldrum, Aberdeenshire
Brechin, Angus
gallons (227,000 www.glengarioch.co.uk
www.glencadam.com
liters) of malt a Open to visitors
Open by appointment
year when it was
sold to a firm of The town of Oldmeldrum,
When Allied blenders in 1899, on the road to Banff from
Distillers closed and the distillery Aberdeen, has had its own
down Glencadam struggled on until distillery since 1798. Given
in 2000 and fired 1920, when it was how many distilleries have
all but one of the Stewarts Cream bought by Captain come and gone in the
distillery workers, of the Barley Charles Grant, the northeast, Glen Garioch’s
no one really son of William survival into its third century
believed the distillery would Grant, of Glenfiddich. It is no small achievement.
be able to survive. remained in family hands
Established in 1825 by until the 1960s, and, but for With no stainless steel in sight,
George Cooper, it had played a doubling of the stills to a visit to Glendronach Distillery
a minor role in Ballantine’s four, little has changed since. is like a step back in time.
and in Stewarts Cream of
the Barley (see p152), a blend
that seems to have faded
away somewhat, at least in
Scotland. Being out on a
limb as the only distillery in
Angus must have fueled this
sense of vulnerability.
But, in 2003, a white knight
was found in the shape of
Angus Dundee Distillers.
After 50 years in the whisky
business, they decided it was
time to acquire a distillery. As
fully matured stocks come on
stream, expect to see more
Glencadam as a single malt.
GLENDRONACH
Forgue, Huntly, Aberdeenshire
www.theglendronach.com
Open to visitors
Like its near neighbor

Ardmore, Glendronach has
been a part of the Teacher’s
story almost from the day
the famous blend was
created in the late 19th
84 whiskey nations
Inevitably, a successful blend them was probably George

was involved—in this case, Connell, who finally took
Vat 69, the brand created out a license for his Burnfoot
by William Sanderson Distillery (later renamed
(see p153), of Aberdeen. Glengoyne) in 1833.
Sanderson first encountered With nearby Glasgow
Glen Garioch (pronounced expanding at breakneck
“glen geerie”) when it was speed, the timing was good.
owned by a firm of blenders Before long, the whisky was
in Leith. In 1886, he bought being sold there by Hugh
a half-share in the distillery, Lang, who ran a pub in the
and by 1921 his son, along Broomielaw district.
with other investors, gained From selling jugs of
full control of the business. Glengoyne malt, the Langs
After numerous changes progressed to blending, which
in ownership since, and Glen Garioch 46-Year-Old they did with considerable
extended periods of lying success, such that in 1876
idle, Glen Garioch is now in moonshine flourished right they were able to buy the
good hands with Morrison across the Highlands, just distillery, which was then
Bowmore. Having bottled a about anywhere there was called Glen Guin (Gaelic for
single malt as early as 1972, ease of concealment and “glen of the wild geese”).
it now produces a range of plentiful water. The distillery was rebuilt in
smooth-textured malts, aged The Campsie Fells, east of the mid-1960s, having been
at 10, 15, and 21 years, and Loch Lomond, were ideal, taken over by the Robertson
a complex 46-year-old rarity. especially the hidden glen Trust, part of the group that
beneath Drumgoyne Hill. now owns Famous Grouse
The hill represents the first and Macallan. It lost its tall
GLENGOYNE volcanic outcrop of the chimney, and smoke no
Drumgoyne, Stirlingshire
Campsies, and down its longer billowed from its
www.glengoyne.com
steep, southern flank runs handsome pagoda roof.
Open to visitors
a burn, which ends in a Other than that, the
waterfall. Whether it was distillery has changed little.
In the sentimentalized view of the sound of the cascade It has always fitted snugly
the Highlands propagated by that attracted the first into its tight-sided glen, and
the Victorians, the epicenter whiskymakers is unknown, further expansion is not an
of whisky smuggling was but certainly, once here, they option. Due to lack of space,
Glenlivet, on Speyside, where found plenty of foliage to the eight warehouses, where
every bothy supposedly provide cover. 440,000 gallons (2 million
gurgled with an illicit still. Before the 1823 Excise Act liters) of Glengoyne lie in
In fact, the production of changed the whisky industry cask, are across the road and
for good in the following officially in the Lowlands,
Having fallen silent in the mid- years, there were at least 18 the distillery being situated
1990s, Glen Garioch Distillery illegal distillers in this pocket right on the Highland Line.
is working once again. of Stirlingshire. Among After years in the shadow
the time the great whisky five-year period in mothballs

writer Alfred Barnard visited during the Depression of the
in the 1880s, he declared it 1930s, the distillery was kept
was “the most ancient and busy by the US market, where
primitive [distillery] we have most of Macdonald & Muir’s
seen” and “almost in ruins.” brands were sold. As long as
William’s eldest son, John sales there continued to
Matheson, was now in charge, flourish, Glenmorangie’s
and before the distillery future looked secure.
collapsed altogether, he Unfortunately, in the 1970s,
dragged in outside investors the United States began to
Originally called Burnfoot, the to form the Glenmorangie fall out of love with blended
distillery at Glengoyne has had Distillery Company. whisky, as sales of vodka
a license since 1833. They rebuilt the distillery, began to boom. This
and production doubled to persuaded the owners of
of its stablemate Macallan, fill demand down south, with the distillery to follow
Glengoyne was bought by the odd cask getting as far as Glenfiddich into the brave
Ian Macleod Distillers in San Francisco. When a local new world of single malt.
2003, and, as their only newspaper discovered that a It turned out to be the
distillery, it is clearly a shipment had been sent to best decision they could
cherished asset. Rome, the townspeople ever have made, and today
Glengoyne 10-year-old wondered whether the Pope all but a drop is bottled as
Appealing cut-grass
43% ABV l himself had asked to sample Glenmorangie, mainly as
aromas with notes of apple “the Mountain Dew of a 10-year-old, though
peel, nuts, and caramel. Easter Ross.” surrounded by a family
Glengoyne 12-year-old One of Glenmorangie’s of different finishes.
A cask-strength
57.2% ABV l main customers was the The use of special casks
take on the above, using prominent firm of blenders to “finish off ” the whisky
the same unpeated malt Macdonald & Muir, in Leith, for a few months before
and some sherry casks to who bought the distillery bottling was pioneered by
give a marzipan-scented, and its stocks for £74,100 in the company. Today, after its
mouth-filling dram. 1918. Production was relaunch in 2007, there are
increased to 110,000 gallons three main whisky finishes:
(500,000 liters) a year, much La Santa, (from sherry
GLENMORANGIE of which went into blends casks), Quinta Ruban (from
Tain, Ross-shire
like Highland Queen and port casks), and Nectar d’Or
www.glenmorangie.com
Martin’s VVO. But for a (from Sauternes casks).
Open to visitors
glenmorangie’s stills
The “Glen of Tranquillity”
suggests a bucolic valley When William Matheson first obtained his license to distill at
hidden deep in the Highlands. Glenmorangie in 1843, he bought a pair of second-hand gin
Instead, Glenmorangie is stills from a firm in London. These have been endlessly
down by the shore of the reproduced ever since, in the sure knowledge that to change
Dornoch Firth and positively their unique design would be to alter Glenmorangie for good.
bustling these days as the The necks are the tallest in Scotland and start with a boil
top-selling malt in Scotland, ball (see p28) that rises almost 17 ft (5.2 m) into the air. This
with increasingly ambitious increases the reflux, so the alcoholic vapors condense on the
plans abroad now that it is inside of the neck and run back into the still. The result?
part of the French luxury A particularly fresh and clean final spirit.
goods group LVMH.
The distillery has come a Glenmorangie’s stills have
long way since its farmyard the longest necks of any
pot stills in Scotland.
roots in the mid-19th century,
when it was converted from
a brewery by William
Matheson, who had been
involved in Balblair since
the 1820s. It had been an
adjunct to the old Morangie
farmhouse, and probably
operated on a seasonal basis
whenever there was grain to
spare after the harvest. By
Glen Garioch’s stills have
provided whisky for the famous
Vat 69 blend for much of their
lives, but now the distillery’s
output is geared towards a
range of smooth single malts.
88 whiskey nations
GLEN ORD GLENTURRET

Muir of Ord, Ross-shire Crieff, Perthshire
www.discovering-distilleries.com www.thefamousgrouse.com
Open to visitors Open to visitors
Despite the name, Glen Ord As well as its claims to be the

lies not in a valley but in the oldest working distillery in
fertile flatlands between Scotland, Glenturret is the
the mountains and the sea, Renovated and expanded to six spiritual home of Scotland’s
15 miles (24 km) northwest stills in the 1960s, Glen Ord now favorite blend of Scotch
of Inverness at Muir of Ord. produces 750,000 gallons (3.4 whisky, The Famous Grouse.
Not far away, Ferintosh million liters) of whisky a year. This fact is made clear
Distillery once stood—the first before you even enter the
one of any size in Scotland. north of Scotland also. Perthshire distillery by a
It closed in the late 18th Various single malts have grouse that acts as a road
century, and some 50 years appeared, from Ord, to sign pointing the way just
later, Alexander Mackenzie Glenordie, to Singleton of beyond Crieff, and by a giant
built Glen Ord in 1837. Glen Ord, which was 17-ft (5.2-m) sculpture of the
With issues over water launched in 2006. After same bird in the parking lot.
rights, which it shared with a ageing in predominately In the past, the only animal
mill, and fierce competition European oak, it has a visitors were told about was
from nine rival distilleries fragrant marzipan nose and Towser, the distillery cat. As
nearby, Mackenzie’s venture a silky texture in the mouth. the celebrated catcher of
stumbled at first, until the nearly 30,000 mice from
widow of his successor 1963 to 1984, she secured a
married a local banker, who GLEN SCOTIA place in the Guinness World
had the funds to maintain it. Campbeltown, Argyll
Records. A small statue of her
In 1923, Glen Ord stands by the entrance. In
was swallowed up by Springbank was almost the comparison, Brooke, the
the joint forces of only surviving distillery of current distillery cat, is a much
Johnnie Walker and Campbeltown’s spectacular less accomplished mouser.
John Dewar & boom and bust, but not For today’s visitors, though,
Sons, along with quite. Smaller and far less it is the full grouse and
Pulteney and well known is Glen Scotia, nothing but the grouse, with
the now-defunct which was first licensed in the cheeky cartoon version
Parkmore, in 1835, to Stuart Galbraith & of the bird popping up just
a deal worth Co. The family firm kept about everywhere on the
£2 million. control until 1895, giving official distillery tour.
The total stocks Glen Scotia the same sense Glenturret was licensed
of maturing of continuity as Springbank. in 1775 and was one of the
whisky were put After that, it was passed very first farm distilleries to
at 8 million between various owners. go legal in a region that
gallons (36 In 1930, at the low point brimmed with illicit stills.
million liters)— of Campbeltown’s whisky
something of a trade, the distillery manager Glenturret is not only the oldest
Singleton of whisky loch on committed suicide in distillery in Scotland, it is also
Glen Ord its own. But, Campbeltown Loch. the most visited.
with the vast His name was Duncan
market in the US officially MacCallum and
out of bounds because of his ghost is said to
Prohibition, supply within the haunt the still room
whisky industry was fast to this day.
outstripping demand. After periods of
Glen Ord can boast its inactivity recently,
own maltings on site, though Glen Scotia’s pair
not in the sense of traditional of stills is back in
floor maltings, where the action under its
grain is turned by hand and present owners,
then malted over a peat fire. the Loch Lomond
Those at Glen Ord are on Distillery Co. The
an industrial scale, to supply malt is lightly
not just this distillery, but its smoked, with a rich,
Diageo stablemates in the silky texture.
distilling on orkney
To early explorers, Orkney was the “Ultima Thule,” the most northerly
fringe of the known world. Far from the watchful eyes of the excise
men, it was the perfect place for distilling, and, whenever there was
barley to spare, whiskymaking thrived in a small, underground way.
Having secured the grain, Highland Park Distillery under

outwitting the law was a relatively Robertson’s partner, John Borwick,
easy matter for one Magnus who died in 1860. The business
Eunson, whose day job gave passed to a relative in Fife, the
him the perfect cover. Eunson Reverend James Borwick, for
was an elder of the Kirk in whom whiskymaking caused
the island’s capital, Kirkwall. the sort of moral dilemmas that
He began distilling in 1798 had never troubled Eunson,
on land known as the “High and the distillery was sold for
Park” and used to stash the £450 to a firm of brokers
barrels of whisky under his called Stuart & Mackay, who
pulpit. Once, he was allegedly supplied the big blenders.
almost caught in a raid, when Highland Park The quality of the whisky
the casks were still out in the 30-Year-Old was put down to the use of
aisle, but, so the story goes, he “bere”—a primitive strain of
quickly covered them with a coffin lid barley—and to the tradition of laying
and white sheet just before the troops heather on top of the smoldering peat
burst in. Then, he “let up a great wail in the kiln. Though the practice has
for the dead” as one of the congregation long been abandoned, Highland Park
whispered the dreaded word “smallpox” retains a subtle heathery sweetness.
and the excise men fled. It has been praised as the greatest all-
Eunson was finally caught in 1813 rounder among malts and was sipped
by John Robertson, the chief excise by the Conservative chancellor Ken
officer, who decided to turn distiller Clarke when he announced an almost
himself. The illicit still became the unheard-of cut in duty in 1996.
The malt produced
in Highland Park’s
vast stills is among
the finest in Scotland.
90 whiskey nations
distilleries, most of them

HIGHLAND PARK illegal, in the 19th century.
Kirkwall, Orkney
The first spirit flowed from
www.highlandpark.co.uk the solitary pair of stills on
Open to visitors
June 29, and at the opening
ceremony, a pair of golden
Founded in 1798, Highland eagles soared high above the
Park (see also p89) is the distillery. This unanticipated
most northerly of all fly-past was taken as a very
Scotland’s distilleries. good omen. Two years later,
Perhaps its greatest triumph the Queen herself turned up
is to have survived at all, to open the visitor center.
given the distance from the The distillery has survived
big blenders, who have into its second decade thanks
Highland Park 15-Year-Old long dominated the whisky to sales through the distillery
industry. Yet, survive it has, shop and a raft of different
Wedged in by the landscape and with some aplomb, releases, including malts as
and unable to expand, the producing one of Scotland’s young as three years—the
distillery would probably not very finest malts. absolute legal minimum.
have survived without its link Highland Park is a favorite There was some criticism
to the popular blend. dram of Inspector Rebus of releasing such youthful
It was closed in 1921 and —Ian Rankin’s hard-boiled whisky, but maybe whisky
remained so until the late fictional cop—whose 20th does mature quicker here,
1950s, when it was restored anniversary in print was in the slightly warmer and
and reopened by a new celebrated with a special often wetter climate of
owner, James Fairlie, who later single-cask bottling of Arran. The island is tucked
sold it to one of his biggest Highland Park in 2006. down the Firth of Clyde,
customers, the French group Highland Park 12-year-old protected from the west by
Cointreau, in 1981. 40% ABV• Smooth and well the sheltering arm of the
Ten years later, it joined rounded with a smoky, Kintyre peninsula.
Highland Distillers, now the orange-peel sweetness and
Edrington Group, who spent a trace of heather.
millions in 2002 creating Highland Park 15-year-old JURA
“The Famous Grouse • Sweetly aromatic,
40% ABV
Isle of Jura, Argyllshire
Experience” visitor center. fading to dry on the palate. www.isleofjura.com
Of what little Glenturret is Open by appointment only
bottled as a gentle, aperitif-
style single malt, most is ISLE of ARRAN Like every Hebridean island
drunk at the distillery itself. Lochranza, Isle of Arran
of any size, there was a long-
www.arranwhisky.com
established tradition of illicit
the jewel in the crown Open to visitors
whiskymaking on Jura before
the first distillery was licensed
When the Bangalore-based In 1995, Harold Currie, in 1831. It had been built
billionaire Vijay Mallya previously MD of Chivas 20 years earlier by the local
bought Whyte & Mackay in Brothers, achieved his dream laird, Archibald Campbell,
2007, the main attraction of building a new distillery. and, after many false starts,
was doubtless the stocks of The site was Lochranza, on the distillery was finally
maturing Scotch whisky in the northern tip of Arran. leased to James Ferguson,
bond for bottling in India It marked the return of who rebuilt it in 1875.
and for blending with his whiskymaking to an island Hampered by the harsh
own Indian whiskies. (India that once had almost 50 conditions of the lease, the
is the largest “whisky” market Fergusons decided to
in the world, depending on abandon the business in
your definition of what 1901. Having first ripped out
constitutes whisky.) Yet, there all the distilling equipment,
was also a sentimental they sold it off. The laird
element to Mallya’s $1 pursued them in the courts
billion purchase. Whyte & for the next 20 years.
Mackay’s portfolio included Meanwhile, the roofs of
the small Jura Distillery (see the distillery were removed
right), whose malt was also
a much-loved favorite of One of the last few independent
his father’s. distilleries in Scotland, Arran uses
only traditional distilling methods.
to avoid paying rates. a trace of almonds and Rebuilt in the 1960s, Jura Distillery
With each passing year, the faintest wisp of uses lightly peated malts to
hopes that malt whisky smoke on the tail. produce Highland-style whiskies.
would ever be made jura Superstition 43%
again on the island ABV • A bigger, more Germany and the 21-year-
of Jura appeared to succulent malt, old Black Label; there are
be fading away. with nutty, woody occasional single-cask
In the late 1950s, flavors of pine and releases too.
two of Jura’s estate marzipan.
owners met to
see what could OBAN
be done to halt LOCH LOMOND
Oban, Argyll
the ever-declining Alexandria, www.discovering-distilleries.com
population on Dumbartonshire Open to visitors
the island, due www.lochlomond
to lack of regular Jura Superstition distillery.com Dubbed “The Gateway to
employment. With Open to visitors
the Isles,” the port of Oban
the aid of investment barely existed when John
from Scottish & Newcastle, The malt whisky favored and Hugh Stevenson set
they recruited the architect by Captain Haddock in the up a distillery here in 1794.
and engineer William Tintin books comes from It was a tiny west coast
Delmé-Evans to resurrect a large distillery by the fishing village at the time
the Jura Distillery. southern shores of Loch the Stevensons moved here
Though on the same site, Lomond. The original Loch from Port Appin and built
the distillery was to produce Lomond Distillery existed
whisky that was totally for just a few years in the the scoti find
different from the powerful, early 19th century and it
phenolic spirit made in the was only resurrected in Being hemmed in while the
past. Using lightly peated name in the 1960s. town grew up around it,
malt and particularly large It was bought in 1985 Oban Distillery has always
stills, which increased the by Glen Catrine, a massive been hampered by lack of
ratio of copper to spirit, bottler of own-label whisky, space. In the late 19th
they created a softer which found itself needing century, owner J. Walter
Highland-style of whisky. malt for its blends. Higgen was forced to blast
Lying just off the northeast With its mix of equipment into the rock face behind
tip of Islay, Jura has always —two conventional pot stills the distillery to create a new
lived in the shadow of its and four with rectifying warehouse. When he did
more famous neighbor, heads—Loch Lomond so, he discovered a secret
especially when it comes to can play many tunes. It can chamber, with tools and
malt whisky. It was not produce grassy, Lowland-style bones from a prehistoric
surprising then that its whiskies alongside meaty, tribe. These were identified
distillery chose to offer the full-bodied malts. as Scoti, cave-dwellers from
world something different To complete the sense of around 5000 BCE. The
from Islay’s muscular, peat- self-sufficiency, there is also a remains are now on display
smoked whiskies. continuous still for producing in Edinburgh’s Museum of
Isle of Jura 10-year-old 40% grain whisky. Two malts are Scotland, while the cave
ABV • Relatively light bodied produced—an unaged was blocked up again.
for a west coast whisky, with version that is popular in
92 whiskey nations
of the Wild West, especially

in summer, when a 10,000-
strong, itinerant workforce
assembled to process the
catch landed by Europe’s
largest herring fleet. At its
peak, there were as many as
a thousand fishing boats
crammed into the harbor,
such that you could walk
from one side to the other
from deck to deck.
Gutting fish was thirsty
The still house at Oban was rebuilt never in huge supply. work, as James Henderson
in the 1960s and 70s, but its single The distillery later joined soon realized when he set
pair of stills was left untouched. forces with Glenlivet and up the town’s first licensed
Aultmore, before the distillery in 1828.
a fine Georgian house. three were bought out by Henderson had made
The distillery grew up John Dewar & Sons and whisky on the side before
next door, right by the then became part of the and he decided to name
water’s edge, apparently. Distillers Company his new venture after Sir
If this is true, it means in 1930. William Johnstone Pulteney,
the sea has retreated Given its size, Oban who had helped establish the
several hundred was never the first town in 1801 on behalf of
feet since. distillery the big the British Fisheries Society.
Oban was always a industry bosses The distillery took its water
sideline to the sought to close from the Loch of Hempriggs,
Stevensons’ main during periods of which was famously peaty
business interests, overproduction. But —a characteristic that was
which included for a few years in the enhanced in the whisky by
shipping, property, 1930s and 1960s, malting the barley over a
and quarrying slate. when the still house peat fire. The result, drunk
The distillery was rebuilt, Oban unaged, would have been
remained in family Distillery has been in a robust, tarry spirit that
hands for three continuous production. perfectly reflected its
generations, until it Oban Since 1990 it has maritime environment.
was sold to J. Walter 14-Year-Old been one of Diageo’s Coming from a town so
Higgen in 1883. “Classic Malts,” which impregnated with the reek
Oban had recently been has done nothing to dampen of fish and the tang of the
connected by train down the the demand for it. Today, it sea, a whisky that was gentle
west coast to Glasgow and is sold on allocation in and understated would never
this no doubt boosted selected markets. have caught on. With a
demand. To maintain supply, Oban 14-year-old 43% ABV • A captive audience and no
Higgen kept his two stills mix of sea spray and citrus fear of illicit competition,
working while carefully fruits on the nose, luscious thanks to a strong and active
rebuilding the distillery over and oily in the mouth, contingent of excisemen,
the next four years. What he drying to a smoky finish. Old Pulteney seemed
created is more or less what ideally placed. There
you can still see today. was also ready access
Oban was impressively OLD PULTENEY to markets across the
self-sufficient, with water Huddart Street, Wick,
North Sea, in Russia,
coming from two lochs in Caithness Germany, and the
Ardconnel, a short distance www.oldpulteney.com
Baltic States, where
behind the distillery, and a Open by appointment most of the pickled,
shed containing two years’ only salted herring ended
supply of peat. The only up on sale.
problem it has ever had is The most northerly By the start of
one of space (see p91). distillery on the the 20th century,
By the start of the 20th Scottish mainland however, Wick
century, Oban was already once stood in the was slipping into
being sold as a single malt, midst of a late-19th decline, along with
though with a production century boom town. its herring fleet,
of just 35,000 gallons In its heyday, Wick Old Pulteney while whisky was
(160,000 liters) a year it was had the feel 12-Year-Old taking the rap for all
manner of social ills

in the town. In 1922, Lochnagar’s royal warrant
the citizens voted to In 1848, John Begg, of Lochnagar, decided to invite the
go dry—a state that neighbors round to his three-year-old distillery on the banks of
remained until after the Dee River. These were not just any old neighbors, however,
World War II. but Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, who had acquired
It did splutter into
Balmoral Castle the same year. Begg walked the short distance
life once again in
from Lochnagar to drop them a note. Life was clearly pretty
the 1950s, but only
as an anonymous relaxed in those days—the invitation was only issued at 9pm,
supplier of malt but the very next day the royal entourage arrived at the
for blends such as distillery door. “We have come to see through your works, Mr.
Ballantine’s. In Begg,” boomed Albert.
1957, it was rebuilt And so began possibly the first-ever official distillery tour,
in a functional, followed by a dram for all, including the children. As the party
bare-bones style, moved from the still house, Prince Albert noted the spirits safe,
Royal losing its original as Begg recorded in his diary: “‘I see you have got your locks
Brackla pagoda roof and there,’ he said. On my replying, ‘These are the Queen’s locks,’
10-Year-Old gaining a modern Her Majesty took a very hearty laugh.”
chimney stack.
By the 1990s it was looking Lochnagar received a royal warrant
shortly after the visit of Queen
distinctly unloved when it Victoria and Prince Albert.
was bought by its current
owners, Inver House. In
1997, playing heavily on the
whisky’s maritime roots, they
launched it as a single malt.
Old Pulteney 12-year-old
40% ABV• Clean, bracing style,
with a faint nutty sweetness
that dries on the tongue.
ROYAL BRACKLA
Cawdor, Nairn
Cawdor Castle, where pioneer of blended whisky.
www.dewarswow.com
Macbeth allegedly murdered The distillery was rebuilt
King Duncan, perhaps gave in the 1890s and again in
Whisky had barely moved it a royal connection anyway. the 1970s, when the brief
in from the cold to become Whether this helped persuade was clearly functionality.
a legitimate business when King William IV to bestow Whatever Prince Charles
Captain William Fraser his blessing on Brackla we will might think of its aesthetics,
managed to secure the first- never know, but Fraser wasted the modern, box-shaped
ever royal warrant for a no time in promoting his malt Brackla, with its corrugated-
whisky distillery in 1835. as “The King’s Own Whisky.” steel roof, is still “royal.”
He had built Brackla Soon, much of the Brackla was the first distillery to
23 years earlier between production was heading be granted a royal warrant, by
the Findhorn River and the south to Andrew Usher, in King William IV. Henceforth, it
Murray Firth. Being near Edinburgh, the original became known as Royal Brackla.
94 whiskey nations
Scapa
St Ola, Orkney
www.scapamalt.com
Besides Highland Park, the

only other surviving distillery
on the Orkney Islands is
Scapa, whose origins go back
to 1885. Its prospects had
not looked so good, however,
when the distillery was
closed—seemingly forever
—in 1994. It was rescued a
decade later, and its future
now appears secure as a
Production at Royal Lochnagar is on Castle and keep John Brown’s boutique distillery determined
a small scale. Most of its whisky is hip flask topped up. John to make a virtue of its far-
used in Johnnie Walker blends. Brown was the loyal flung location. Its then
manservant of Queen owner, Allied Domecq,
Victoria (he was portrayed embarked on a rebuilding
ROYAL LOCHNAGAR by Billy Connolly in the program that restored Scapa
Ballater, Aberdeenshire
1997 film Mrs. Brown). to full operation, before
John’s relationship with selling it to Pernod
Open to visitors
Victoria aroused plenty Ricard in 2005.
of gossip. When he fell Scapa 14-year-old
Royal Lochnagar Distillery flat on his face after one 40% ABV • Rich, spicy
was originally called New dram too many, the fruit-cake notes,
Lochnagar, as it was the Queen leaped to his with an impressive,
replacement for a distillery defense, pronouncing lingering finish.
that had stood on the that she too “had felt
opposite bank. This had the earth move.”
been established in 1825 by As John Begg & SPRINGBANK
James Robertson, but had Sons, the business Campbeltown, Argyll
burned down and then been remained in family www.springbank
swept away in a flood. hands until 1916 when distillers.com
The new distillery was built it was bought by John Open by appointment
in 1845 by John Begg, and, Dewar & Sons. By
once he had obtained a then, Lochnagar was a When Springbank
royal warrant (see p93), both key component in Vat Scapa was founded just five
distillery and whisky were 69, the blend created 14-Year-Old years after the Excise
renamed Royal Lochnagar. by Begg’s friend Act of 1813, there
Begg prospered and soon William Sanderson. were 13 licensed distilleries
set up an office in Aberdeen, With its solitary pair of in Campbeltown. By the
where he developed a blend stills, Royal Lochnagar is 1830s, the number had
to satisfy a wider audience. almost a boutique distillery, jumped to 20, encouraged
Meanwhile, he made sure he but one highly cherished by by the ever-expanding, ever-
had plenty of casks on site its owners, Diageo. thirsty Glasgow, just a short
to supply nearby Balmoral Royal Lochnagar 12-year-old sail up the Firth of Clyde.
Scapa Distillery produces only 40% ABV • A ripe sherried nose Later, when the railroads
single malts, with a flavor of with notes of fruit cake, gave Speyside the chance to
heather and honey all their own. spice, and old leather. seduce the big blenders with
talisker
The story of Talisker begins with the MacAskill brothers—a pair of
farmers from the Isle of Eigg. They arrived on Skye to take a lease on
Talisker House and were soon encouraging the locals to emigrate to
make room for sheep, this being the time of the Highland Clearances.
When the MacAskills bought by the Distillers

built Talisker in 1830, it Company in 1925. At the
was much to the distress time, Talisker was triple
of the local minister, who distilled, like an Irish
preached against the evils whiskey. The new owners
of drink. His prayers changed back to double
were finally answered distillation, but otherwise
when the brothers sold 440,000 gallons (Two million left things as they were,
liters) of whisky are made at including the use of coal
up 24 years later.
Talisker Distillery each year.
Talisker limped on fires under the stills. In
until the 1880s, when it was bought by 1960, this almost caused the end of
Roderick Kemp, from Aberdeen. Talisker, when someone left the
Unhappy that it had no jetty—which manholes off one of the wash stills,
meant the barrels of whisky had to be causing the liquid to bubble over. The
floated out to the puffers waiting blackened stills were replaced using the
offshore—Kemp wrote desperate same design, only this time they were
letters to his landlord at Dunvegan fitted with internal steam coils.
Castle, begging him to build a proper One thing that has never changed
pier. Although the laird happily is the curious lyne arms. These wide
accepted Kemp’s rent of £45 a year copper pipes poke through the wall of
and a 10-gallon (46-liter) cask the still house, kink upward in a large
of Talisker every Christmas, he did U-bend, and then plunge into the
nothing about the pier until 1900. worm tubs. What this does for Talisker
By which time, Kemp had given up is hard to stay, but judging by the
and left Skye to run Macallan. accolades heaped on this “Classic
The distillery teamed up with Malt,” it cannot be all bad.
Dailuaine, on Speyside, to form a
limited company in 1898, which was There were once seven distilleries on Skye but,
without barley crops on the island, they struggled,
and Talisker is the only one that remained.
96 whiskey nations
its softer, gentler malts, the Alongside its namesake Talisker 18-year-old 45.8%
town’s distillers looked west whisky, Springbank also ABV • Candied fruit and
to the United States. When produces Hazelburn toffee on the nose, with
that market shut down as and the heavily peated a beguiling, mellow
a result of Prohibition, Longrow. In 2004, its smokiness in the mouth.
Campbeltown’s demise was owners opened a new Talisker 21-year-old
swift. By the mid-1930s, the distillery in the town, • A giant,
57.8% ABV
only distilleries left were Glen on the site of what brooding malt that
Scotia and Springbank. was the Glengyle crashes over the
Part of the reason that Distillery. Its single tongue like breakers
Springbank survived was malt—to be called on the beach.
that its malt was a little less Kilkerran—will be
heavy than the usual available in 2014.
Campbeltown style, which Springbank TEANINICH
blenders had grown weary 10-year-old 46% ABV Alness, Ross-shire
of. Also, the distillery never Notes of leather,
compromised on quality nutmeg, and orange Hidden on the
—unlike many of its rivals, peel, with a tang of outskirts of town
who had grown complacent salt and smoke on Talisker in an industrial
through years of supplying the finish. 10 -Year-Old estate beside the
Glasgow blenders. People in Longrow 10-year-old Cromarty Firth is
the business began referring 46% ABV • Spicy, sherry notes Dalmore’s neighboring
to the “stinking fish” aroma are soon enveloped by dense distillery, in Alness.
of the region’s malts, though aromatic smoke. It was founded by Captain
it seems extremely unlikely Hugh Munro in 1817 and
that anyone really did was named after his estate
use old herring barrels to TALISKER of Teaninich (pronounced
mature their whisky, as was Carbost, Isle of Skye
“chee-an-in-ick”). In the
the implication. www.discovering-distilleries.com
1850s, Munro was posted
The other factor that Open to visitors
off to India, and the distillery
has been instumental in was leased out.
Springbank’s success is In 1823, there were seven When the whisky writer
continuity. . It has been licensed distilleries on Skye. Alfred Barnard paid a visit
in the same family’s hands Today, there is only one— in 1885, it was said to be
since the very start. In 1992, Talisker. Unlike the more the only distillery north of
the Mitchells decided to fertile Islay, the island lacked Inverness to boast telephonic
restore the floor maltings, in barley of its own, which communication. By then,
a bid to control the whole meant the early distillers on it was producing up to
process from start to finish Skye always struggled. 80,000 gallons (365,000
and be more self-sufficient. The grain now all comes liters) of “pure Highland
The rest of the industry, from Scotland’s east coast, malt” a year, which went
meanwhile, was busy and, with the advent of straight off to the blenders
contracting into an ever- paved roads and the Skye down south.
declining number of ever- Bridge, life is considerably Little changed until the
larger corporations. easier these days. 1960s, when the still house
That same year, it was Talisker 10-year-old 45.8% ABV was refitted and then
also decided not to sell the A feisty, bracing malt that is expanded in 1970 to fit
distillery’s whisky as fillings initially sweet on the palate six stills, losing whatever
for blends, but to concentrate and then hot and peppery old-world charm it once
on releasing it as single malt. on the finish. had in the process.
Springbank uses a variety
of oak casks, some having TOBERMORY
previously contained
sherry or bourbon, to Tobermory, Isle of Mull
mature its whisky. www.tobermory.co.uk
Open to visitors
If the art of distilling came

to Scotland from Ireland,
then it was perhaps on Mull
that the first Scotch whisky
was made. After all, it was to
Iona, the small island off the
southwest tip of Mull, that
on in 1972 there was precious Though it was a long way

little left. Armed with a hefty from Speyside, the original
development grant, they distillery called itself the
put in new stills and all the Tomatin Spey District
equipment needed. The Distillery Company when it
timing was terrible, however, opened in 1897. It survived
with the industry awash with for just eight years before
whisky in search of a home. going under.
Their venture failed, but at It quickly resurfaced as
least they had done enough Tomatin Distillers Ltd and
to save the distillery, and in grew to become a monster
1993 it was once again kicked distillery, with 23 stills and
into life by Burn Stewart a production of 12 million
Tobermory markets two whiskies Distillers, who own it today. gallons (546 million liters) by
—a malt and a blend—as well as a Tobermory 10-year-old 40% 1974, putting it second only
single malt bottled under the • A crisp, tangy unpeated
ABV to Glenfiddich in scale.
site’s old name of Ledaig. malt that dries on the finish. Twelve years later, Tomatin
Ledaig 10-year-old 42% ABV was bought by the Takara
St. Columba sailed in his The strong, peat-smoked big Co. Ltd and became the first
coracle in 563CE, although brother of Tobermory. distillery in Scotland to be
there is no actual mention of owned by a Japanese firm.
him bringing a still, and it
seems unlikely the islanders TOMATIN
would have kept it secret for TULLIBARDINE
Tomatin, Inverness-shire
so long if he did. www.tomatin.com Blackford, Perthshire
Whatever the truth, there Open to visitors www.tullibardine.com
is now just one distillery on Open to visitors
Mull. It was officially founded Situated halfway between
in 1823 by John Sinclair, Aviemore and Inverness, Writ large on the side of this
whose first application to the Tomatin attracts a steady modern-looking distillery
powers that be was turned stream of passing trade, beside the A9 are the words
down. The Fisheries Society which rattles past on the A9. “Tullibardine 1488,” the
of the British Isles, who It has always been a staging year being a reference to
created Tobermory as a post on the main road north, when King James IV bought
model village at the end of if not always with a gift shop beer from an old brewery
the 18th century, suggested and parking lot. sited here for his coronation
Sinclair build a brewery Long before there was a at nearby Scone.
instead. Once his distillery licensed distillery here, there The brewery survived into
was up and running, he gave was an illicit still attached to the 20th century, and was
it scant regard as he dwelt the laird’s house, supplying bought in 1947 by the noted
on his main business of whisky to the drovers on distillery architect William
supplying kelp for making their slow journey from Delmé-Evans, who was also
soap and glass. When Sinclair upland grazing land to the involved with Glenallachie
died in 1837, the distillery at cattle markets down south. and Jura. His real passion was
Tobermory closed for the Tullibardine, however, and
next 40 years. he successfully converted the
But for grain, which came brewery to a distillery. Sadly,
from the mainland, Mull failing health forced him to
had everything else. It had sell up in 1953.
plentiful water, peat, and a The distillery spent the
ready market, with the island 1990s in mothballs and, as
population approaching its each year passed, the chances
peak of 10,600. Yet, the of resuscitation appeared to
distillery was only brought fade. A rescue package was
back to life in 1878. It then finally agreed in 2003, and
tottered on until 1916, in December that year the
when it was acquired by the boiler was fired up once
Distillers Company. During again. The new independent
the Depression of the 1920s owners are doing everything
and 30s, it was shut down, they can to sustain the
as if for good. business through tours,
The next lull in trading As with most Scotch whiskies, a restaurant, and a shop
was even longer, and when a the wash at Tomatin is distilled until they deem that the new
business consortium took it twice in copper pot stills. spirit has reached maturity.
98 whiskey nations
Islay
Of all Scotland’s whisky regions, Islay has the strongest identity.
Being an island helps, but there is also its signature tune of peat
smoke. Apart from Bunnahabhain, which “gracefully declines to run
with the pack” (to quote its website), all Islay’s whiskies are peated.
This was never a collective decision. No one knows when whisky making
It was simply that peat was the only began, though with Ireland just 20 miles
source of fuel to be found on the island. (32km) away it may have been very early,
It was how people heated their houses, if Irish monks really did convert the west
with a fire in the middle and the smoke coast to whisky as well as Catholicism in
wafting up through a hole in the roof. the 6th century. Yet, until some evidence
Peat’s uniquely pungent aroma would is unearthed from a peat bog, we will
have impregnated people’s hair, clothes, never know for sure.
bedding, and food. As such, the idea What we do know is that Islay’s
of an unpeated whisky would have been first licensed distillery was Bowmore,
totally unimaginable—it just wouldn’t which was established in 1779. It was
have been whisky. joined by more than 20 distilleries during
In addition to the plentiful supplies of the 19th century, of which six survive
peat to malt the grain and fire the stills, today. The most recent casualty was
there was no shortage of soft, pure water. Port Ellen, in 1984, though its maltings
Yet, this was true of other islands. What continue to supply most of the distilleries
set Islay apart was that it was the most on the island with malt. The peat used is
fertile of the Hebrides, and the presence entirely from Islay and is said to give
of barley gave its distillers a head start. whiskies like Ardbeg their uniquely
With gale-force winds and no shelter to medicinal, mildly antiseptic tang.
speak of, the barley harvest was often Not long ago, the prospects for Islay
meager, but there was usually enough to looked bleak, and many feared that
make whisky. The first imports of grain Ardbeg or Bruichladdich would also
on to Islay did not arrive until 1815, by have to close for good. Even Lagavulin
which time distilling was there to stay. was once on a three-day week. Today,
the situation is far healthier, as more
The pier at Bunnahabhain was built shortly after and more whisky lovers gravitate to this
the distillery was founded in the 1880s, so boats beautiful island, hooked on the strange,
could easily dock to load up with whisky. bitter-sweet taste of peat.
scotland: islay 99
islay DISTILLERIES virtually unknown outside

the industry and the heavily
peated malt it produced was
not sufficiently different.
In 1989, with demand
for blended whisky about
to recover after the bad
years of the early 1980s,
production resumed on
a small scale. Whether
those re-employed at
Ardbeg felt secure is
unlikely. Somehow, there
was already an unofficial
“For Sale” sign over the
Ardbeg
door. The eventual sale
10-Year-Old
did not take place until
1997, when the owners of
Glenmorangie beat off seven
rival bids and bought the
distillery for an estimated
£7 million. They then
spent a further £1.4 million
on repairs, to crank Ardbeg
fully back to life. Today,
Ardbeg is a famous single
malt with an ever-growing
band of admirers.
Ardbeg 10-year-old 46% ABV
Notes of creosote, tar, and
smoked fish on the nose,
while any sweetness on the
tongue quickly dries to a
smoky finish.
Ardbeg Distillery—in a precarious Alfred Barnard wrote that its Ardbeg “Uigeadail” 54.2% ABV
state for much of the 1980s and “isolation tends to heighten Fragrant notes of pot-pourri
90s—is now very much on the up. the romantic sense of its and leather give way to an
position.” Yet by then, as intense earthy character in
Alexander MacDougall the mouth, tempered with
ARDBEG & Co., it was fully connected sweet sherry notes.
Port Ellen, Isle of Islay
to the whisky industry. Its four
www.ardbeg.com
stills produced 250,000
gallons (1.1 million liters) of BOWMORE
Open to visitors
“Pure Islay Malt”, which was Bowmore, Isle of Islay
Ardbeg took out a license then sold on by Buchanan’s, www.bowmore.co.uk
in 1815, the same year as in Glasgow, to blenders Open to visitors
Laphroaig and a year before keen to add weight and
Lagavulin. These three texture to their blends. Bowmore stands right
distilleries on the coast road Like most other remote on the shore of Loch
from Port Ellen, in the parish distilleries, Ardbeg supported Indaal, whose salt-
of Kildalton, produce big, a whole community, providing laden breezes blow
pungent malt whiskies not just jobs, but a social life into the warehouses
smelling strongly of peat; for the village. From a peak and presumably
none more so than Ardbeg. of 60, Ardbeg’s workforce seep into the casks.
This is not a whisky to declined to just 18 in 1981, As with the majority
drink beneath a smoke alarm, when the distillery was of Islay distilleries,
unless you enjoy upsetting mothballed by Allied however, most of
the neighbors. Besides, it Distillers. The workers were the whisky produced
is a real outdoor whisky, laid off and the last vestiges at Bowmore is
and—like all malts—is best of a community crumbled transported off the
enjoyed in situ, next to the away. Being in the same island for maturing
distillery that produced it. stable as Laphroaig (also on the mainland.
Having visited Ardbeg in owned by Allied Distillers) This is due to lack Bowmore
the 1880s, the whisky writer had not helped. Ardbeg was of space, which Legend
With waves crashing on to the Bowmore’s own water comes Distillery different is having
shore at the feet of the distillery, from the River Laggan via a a proportion created here
Bowmore produces characterful 7 mile (11km) aqueduct and on a stone floor, turned by
whisky that echoes its position. is used to mix with the mash, hand, and dried over a peat
cool the stills, and steep the fire. Whether it really affects
shrank even further in 1991, barley, this being one of the the quality of the whisky
when warehouse No.3 was few distilleries to have its would be hard to prove,
converted into Islay’s only own floor maltings. but it certainly makes the
community swimming pool, The majority of the barley distillery, with its blue smoke
its water warmed by recycled arrives pre-malted, but part wafting from the pagoda
heat from the distillery. of what makes Bowmore roof, well worth a visit.
Bowmore: islay’s oldest distillery
The oldest distillery on Islay was distillery was greatly expanded,

founded in 1779, when there was and annual production soared to
little more to Bowmore than a 200,000 gallons (900,000 liters).
curious round church. It was started The whisky was shipped off the
by part-time distiller and farmer island to be stored and bottled
David Simpson. Like all early distillers, beneath the arches of Glasgow’s
Simpson would have relied on local Central Station.
barley, and in 1800 he and a In 1890, W&J Mutter were forced
neighboring distiller complained that to sell the distillery, which was
Islay’s illicit distillers were denying then passed from one owner to
them their share of barley. This, A W&J Mutter’s poster the next until the Glasgow-based
coupled with Simpson’s farming whisky firm Stanley P. Morrison Ltd.
interests, ensured that Bowmore remained tiny. bought Bowmore in 1963. Production was
It was producing just 800 gallons (3,640 liters) cranked up again, this time reaching 880,000
a year when it was bought by the Glasgow firm gallons (4 million liters) by the end of the
of W&J Mutter in 1837. Some 50 years later, the 1960s. It became the flagship distillery of
Morrison Bowmore, which itself became part of
The round church was the focal the Japanese Suntory group in the mid-1990s.
point of the village when
Bowmore was founded.
scotland: islay 101
Twenty years later, its four

stills went cold once more a mini building boom
and Bruichladdich was back In 1881, the whisky industry
on the market. It was finally on Islay enjoyed a mini
rescued at the end of 2000 building boom, with
by a consortium led by Mark Bunnahabhain and
Reynier, an independent Bruichladdich springing up
whisky bottler. At his side in the same year. Though it
was Bowmore’s former may not have been on quite
manager, Jim McEwan, the same scale as the
who was charged with Campbeltown boom before
the job of bringing it or the one that was about
Bruichladdich Distillery to hit Speyside, it
back to life again. demonstrated that the
While the new spirit whisky industry already
has been maturing in valued the intense, full-
Bowmore Legend 40% cask, a raft of regular flavored house style of
ABV • A dry, bracing bottlings and special Islay in its blends.
malt whisky with a editions has been
faint citrus flavor released for sale from
that develops into inherited stocks. The
a smoky finish. traditional style, using
Bowmore 12-year-old lightly peated malt—in
43% ABV • The smoke contrast to most other
comes through on whisky distilleries on
the nose and mingles Bowmore the island—was not
with citric notes of 12-Year-Old dissimilar to
lemon zest and barley Bunnahabhain.
sugar on the tongue. In 2002, Bruichladdich’s
new owners decided to
expand the range with a Bruichladdich “1986”
BRUICHLADDICH heavily peated whisky, called
Bruichladdich, Isle of Islay
Port Charlotte after a nearby in single malts, and in Islay
www.bruichladdich.com
village. They have since in particular, means that for
Open to visitors
added Octomore, named the moment Bruichladdich
after an Islay distillery that is definitely in the right place
Set on the shores of Loch closed in 1852. Available at at the right time.
Indaal, facing Bowmore, the some point after 2010, it Bruichladdich 10-year-olD
oldest established distillery promises to be one of the 46% ABV• Fresh, floral nose,
on Islay, Bruichladdich was most pungent, smoky with a malty, cereal aroma,
built in 1881 by Robert, whiskies yet made. a trace of brine, and a light
William, and John Harvey. With its solitary distillery, oily texture.
Their family had been Bruichladdich has always
making whisky for over a had to try to punch well Stored two-high on an earth floor,
century and already owned above its weight to compete Bruichladdich’s oak casks are
Yoker and Dundashill, in against much bigger rivals. regularly checked to see how
Glasgow, the latter being the But the ever-growing interest well the whisky is maturing.
largest malt whisky distillery
in Scotland at the time.
From the start, their new
operation was a serious
venture, boasting cavity walls
and a prototype form of
concrete made from pebbles
on the beach. This was
radical stuff in those days.
The Harvey family
remained involved until
1929, when the distillery
shut down for a decade.
It was then bought and sold
repeatedly until owners
Invergordon Distillers took
it on in the mid-1970s.
102 whiskey nations
ever really appreciated what

modest beginnings they had is unclear. So much
The distillery at Bunnahabhain was established beside a shingle attention was being paid to
beach by two farmers in 1881. At the time, there was no their flagship malts—The
infrastructure of any kind, and the contractors had to start by Macallan (on Speyside) and
building a road and then cottages for the workers, followed by Highland Park (on Orkney)
a schoolroom and a pier. The total venture, including distillery, —that their outpost on Islay
cost £30,000, yet it was making a profit of £10,000 by its may at times have felt
second year. It was then called the Islay Distillery Company, and neglected. But Bunnahabhain
its directors were delighted with the manager and asked him to played an important role
name his terms. It seems his only in The Famous Grouse
request was that “not less than (see p132) and Black Bottle
£30” be spent on furnishings (see pp123), a strong, fulsome
for his cottage. His bosses blend that includes whiskies
were happy to oblige. from every distillery on Islay.
A single malt was made
A signpost to available, but it never quite
Bunnahabhain rode the wave of popularity
Distillery. that engulfed the island’s
whiskies, largely because it
lacked the signature tune of
peat. If you were expecting
spoonfuls per bottle might a huge smoking volcano
BUNNAHABHAIN unbalance the blend, of a malt whisky that would
Port Askaig, Isle of Islay
especially if it was erupt on your tongue
www.bunnahabhain.com
predominantly and leave a trail of
Speyside. ash, Bunnahabhain
Of the seven distilleries on Bunnahabain’s was bound to
Islay, Bunnahabhain has decision to forsake disappoint.
always been the least typical. peated barely Aware of this
It forsook the use of peated meant it now problem, the new
barley, with a view to offered a low-tar distillery owners,
creating something a little alternative, which, Burn Stewart,
more gentle. This point of it was hoped, began filling casks
difference is now marketed blenders would use with a well-peated
as a virtue, though the more generously. version, alongside
original motives for it were A few years after the existing style,
rather different. it was established Bunnahabhain for those who
Famed for their “hair-on- (see above), the whisky label don’t want hairs
the-chest” style, Islay malts distillery was on their chest.
have long been used as a top gobbled up by Highland Bunnahabhain 12-year-Old
dressing in blended Scotch. Distillers, which later became 40% ABV • A bracing, maritime
Although highly regarded, part of the Edrington malt on the nose which
they were added sparingly, Group; they owned it until displays a malty sweetness
since more than a few recently. Whether Edrington on the tongue.
Bunnahabhain Distillery
produces the sweetest and
least peaty of Islay’s malts.
scotland: islay 103
site where people used to Caol Ila’s east-facing windows

CAOL ILA wash lead ore in a burn that offer views across the sea to
flows down from Loch nam the neighboring Isle of Jura.
Port Askaig, Isle of Islay
Ban. Henderson had been
Open to visitors
looking for a suitable spot for best views in the whisky
six years, and perhaps it was industry. Often, there will
Until recently, few people the sound of running water be seals playing on the rocks,
outside the whisky industry that brought him here. alongside cormorants and
knew about Islay’s largest Either way, he was soon eider duck. Beyond are the
distillery. While its island using it to mash the grain, Paps of Jura—the famous
stablemate, Lagavulin, basked condense the spirit, and breast-shaped peaks of
in the limelight as one of power the distillery via a Islay’s neighbor.
Diageo’s “Classic Malts,” set of turbines. Caol Ila 12-year-old 43% ABV
Caol Ila kept a low profile. In 1863, Caol Ila was The fresh citrus tang on
Its role in life was simply to bought and then extended the nose gives way to
provide backbone and by the Glasgow distillers gentle aromatic smoke in
peat smoke to blends Bulloch Lade, who built the mouth.
created on the mainland. a pier in front of the Caol Ila 18-year-old 43% ABV
There were occasional distillery. Within 20 Sweeter than the 12-year-
independent bottlings, it years, two steamers a old, with a more creamy
is true, but on the whole week were calling to texture in the mouth that
it was unknown as a deliver the grain and develops a smoky edge
single malt. take away the filled before the finish.
This has all begun casks. Caol Ila later
to change, partly acquired its own KILCHOMAN
because Lagavulin “puffer”, the Pibroch,
can barely keep up which was only This boutique operation,
with demand and decommissioned which began distilling in the
partly as a result of in 1972, when the summer of 2005, models
the ever-growing distillery was shut itself on an old farm
interest among down for large-scale distillery. It was the first to
whisky drinkers refurbishment. When be built on Islay for 124
in Islay malts. it reopened, some two years and is the most
Caol Ila is Gaelic years later, the only westerly. Every stage of the
for the Sound of building still standing process is highly traditional,
Islay, the narrow Caol Ila from the past was the from the use of locally
channel that separates 12-Year-Old warehouse. The still grown barley to maturation
the island from Jura, room was completely on site. The distillery aims
to the north. The distillery new and now had six stills to release bottlings at
stands on the shore, just and a capacity of 660,000 various ages, starting with
beyond Port Askaig, where gallons (3 million liters) of a 5-year-old in 2010. It is
the Caledonian Macbrayne alcohol a year. It also had a open to visitors. For more
ferry calls from the mainland. huge, almost floor-to-ceiling information, visit www.
It was built by Hamish window that gives the kilchomandistillery.com.
Henderson in 1846, on the stillman on duty one of the
104 whiskey nations
Later, his partner’s 16 years in cask before

LAGAVULIN nephew, Peter Mackie, being bottled as one of
Port Ellen, Isle of Islay
created the White Horse Diageo’s Classic Malts.
www.discovering-distilleries.com blend (see p153), with Lagavulin 16-year-old
Open to visitors
Lagavulin at its heart. 43% ABV • Beneath the
To meet demand for layers of peat smoke
Every summer a flotilla of the blend, he relied that first dominate the
yachts sails past the ruins on neighboring nose and palate lurks
of Dunyvaig Castle into Laphroaig, and when a beguiling sweetness
Lagavulin Bay for the climax that distillery stopped and complexity.
of the Classic Malts Cruise. supplying him, he Lagavulin Distiller’s
Those who have arrived decided to build a Edition 43% ABV • The
early can sit back and watch Laphroaig of his own 16-year-old whisky
latecomers negotiate their and call it The Malt “finished” in a sherry
way in over the submerged Mill. The distillery cask, to give an initial
rocks. Often, someone will stood within the sweetness that fades
come to grief with an grounds of Lagavulin, to a long smoky,
expensive scraping sound. which Peter Mackie salt-flecked finish.
Consolatory drams are finally acquired in Lagavulin
offered and any damage is 1921, three years 16-Year-Old
forgotten until the morning, before he died. LAPHROAIG
as the farewell ceilidh heats up. The Malt Mill was said to Port Ellen, Isle of Islay
Many centuries ago, these produce one of the most www.laphroaig.com
rocks protected the Lord of heavily peated malts of its Open to visitors
the Isles, whose power-base day, though whether it ever
was Dunyvaig. If invaders resembled Laphroaig is Laphroaig has always reveled
came too close, they risked unclear. The mill was in its harsh, peat-smoked
being shipwrecked, an event demolished in the 1960s, character—a seemingly
the islanders doubtless leaving only a couple of unappetizing mix of hemp,
celebrated with whisky. millstones painted with a bonfires, iodine, and
Illicit distilling had been white horse beside the gate. seaweed, wrapped in peat
endemic here in the parish The design of its pear- smoke. With a flavor profile
of Kildalton for years when shaped stills, however, was as far as it is possible to be
a number of smuggling copied for two of Lagavulin’s from a sweet, crowd-pleasing
bothys merged to form four stills. These are run at a drink like Baileys Irish
Lagavulin in 1817. slow pace, just five hours for Cream, there is nothing
In 1836, Alexander the first distillation, but nine gentle about Laphroaig. Yet,
Graham took on the lease for the second. All that every day whisky drinkers
of Lagavulin, whose whiskies contact with the copper new to this uncompromising
were sold through The Islay helps lighten and polish what malt break through the pain
Cellar, his shop in Glasgow. might be a very heavy, barrier and become hooked.
phenolic spirit, given the Laphroaig’s origins go back
The rocky shoreline where amount of peat used on the to the Johnston brothers,
Lagavulin is based once offered barley. All the grain is malted who arrived from the
protection from invaders; it still at nearby Port Ellen. The mainland to graze cattle on
catches out an occasional yacht. whisky then mellows for the southern shores of Islay.
scotland: islay 105
prince charles’
fondness for peat
Prince Charles numbers
among the fans of Laphroaig,
and his crest appears on the
label of the bottle. In 1994,
he dropped in on the
distillery after overshooting
Islay’s tiny airstrip. The heir
to the throne had made the
near-fatal mistake of landing
with a tail wind. All four tires
went pop before the plane
came to a halt nose-down in
a peat bog. Fortunately, no
one was hurt in the incident.
Laphroaig uses American oak to was accepted as a In the 1960s, Laphroaig

mature its whisky, with plenty of “medicinal spirit” and became part of Allied
sea air seeping into the wood. could be acquired on Domecq, and remained
prescription from a so until the distillery was
They were soon making sympathetic doctor sold to Fortune Brands
whisky on the side and in (see p211). (owners of Jim Beam)
1815 Laphroaig was In the 1930s, Ian in 2005.
officially born. Donald Hunter recruited a Laphroaig 10-year-old
Johnston was in charge young Glaswegian 43% ABV • An intense,
from 1836 until his death 10 woman called Bessie smoky mix of hemp
years later, when, tragically, Williamson to help and sea spray, with a
he fell into a vat of his out in the office. The little malty sweetness
whisky and drowned. arrangement was on the tongue.
The distillery stayed with originally just for one Laphroaig 15-year-old
the Johnstons and the summer, but Bessie • A richer,
43% ABV
Hunters—who they married never left and she more-rounded flavor
in to—for over a century. eventually inherited than the 10-year-old;
During this time there was the distillery when the smoke does still
a bitter and often litigious Hunter died without Laphroaig dominate, but it is
dispute with neighboring an heir in 1954. 10-Year-Old more aromatic.
Lagavulin Distillery, or
rather its owner, the whisky
baron Sir Peter Mackie,
who used to buy half of
Laphroaig’s production
for his blends. When the
contract was rescinded, he
reacted with spite, ordering
Laphroaig’s water supply to
be cut off. This resulted in
yet another court case,
which Mackie lost.
Relations had improved
by the time Ian Hunter took
over in 1927. He was the
first to bottle Laphroaig and
began to build its reputation
abroad, including in the US,
despite Prohibition there.
Helped perhaps by its mildly
antiseptic taste, Laphroaig
The stills at Laphroaig are small

and onion-shaped, and seem to
maximize the tarry smokiness.
Ardbeg Distillery provides
some of the most coveted
malts for use in blends.
108 whiskey nations
Lowland distilleries
The overriding image of malt whisky is of a Highland spirit made
against a backdrop of barren peaks or heather-clad hills in a remote
glen, or on the west coast lashed by wind and rain. The soft, rolling
farmland south of Edinburgh somehow just doesn’t fit the bill.
The whisky industry lowland DISTILLERIES of times, but still retained

has been bedevilled (GLQEXUJK the feel of a farm
$8&+(1726+$1 */(1.,1&+,(
by periodic lean distillery. When
*ODVJRZ
times, and many a Alfred Barnard
far-flung outpost of $\U 6&27/$1' (see p50) paid
whiskymaking has a visit in 1878,
/$'<%851
survived decades of 6&27/$1' hedescribed
'XPIULHV
inactivity, only to 6WUDQUDHU /RZODQGV Auchentoshan as
sputter into life in %/$'12&+
a “little distillery…
the good times. A situated in a romantic glen, with a
silent distillery in the Lowlands, stream of water running past it.”
however, faces a much higher risk The romantic glen subsequently
of being redeveloped into executive disappeared in Glasgow’s expansion,
flats or a supermarket parking lot. leaving Auchentoshan at the end of
Not so very long ago, there were the Great Western Road, close to the
more than 20 licensed distilleries in Erskine Bridge. Its proximity to the
the Lowlands. Now, there are just city meant that its whisky could almost
two of any size—Auchentoshan be piped into the warehouses of the
and Glenkinchie, with two others, Glasgow blenders direct from the still.
Bladnoch and Daftmill, recently At some point, Auchentoshan
in resurgence. All but Daftmill increased its pair of stills to three
are open to the public. and began triple-distilling its spirit, as
though it were making Irish whiskey.
AUCHENTOSHAN The whisky has been triple-distilled
Originally built as the Duntocher ever since. Morrison Bowmore took
Distillery by John Bulloch in over the distillery in 1984.
1817, Auchentoshan (www. Auchentoshan Select has a fresh
auchentoshan.co.uk) stands on approachable style, with citrus
land once owned by Paisley aromas and an Ovaltine
Abbey, whose monks sweetness on the palate.
might have been the first
distillers in these parts. bladnoch
Bullogh’s son renamed the Founded in 1817, tiny
distillery Auchentoshan Bladnoch Distillery (www.
(Gaelic for “corner of the bladnoch.co.uk), near
field”) before it was sold to Wigtown, remained in the
a local family. It then same family hands—the
changed hands a number Bladnoch 15-Year-Old McLelland’s—until 1930.
Scotland: lowlands 109
It was then repeatedly bought and mid-1850s and for the next 30 years it
sold, spending prolonged periods became a saw mill. It was resurrected
lying idle until it was finally rescued by an Edinburgh brewer and a pair
in 1994 by Raymond Armstrong, of Leith wine merchants, who rebuilt
from Northern Island, who spent a Glenkinchie as a highly efficient,
small fortune restoring it to a tiny state-of-the-art operation. It had
boutique distillery. a siding connected to the railroad,
Bladnoch is available bottled, its own overhead rails inside the
or by the cask for around distillery to carry the barley to the
$2,000, which includes eight malting floor, and mechanical
years’ storage but not the tax. rakes in the mash tun.
Glenkinchie was also totally
Daftmill connected to the land, with
A tiny farm distillery near fields of barley close at hand
Cupar in Fife, Daftmill was to supply the grain, which was
created within a converted mill Glenkinchie malted on site until 1968. It
10-Year-Old
house dating from the late 17th provided whisky for Haig—
century. The creators were Francis Britain’s biggest whisky brand until
and Ian Cuthbert, whose family had the mid-1970s—but with Haig’s
farmed the land here for generations. sharp decline of fortunes in the UK,
The distillery went into production Glenkinchie faced an uncertain
in December 2005, and can produce future. Until, that is, it was elevated
4,400 gallons (20,000 liters) per by current owners Diageo to sit
annum—as much as a large distillery alongside the likes of Lagavulin and
produces each day. Oban in their “Classic Malts” series.
Glenkinchie 10-Year-Old has a
Glenkinchie malty, cut-grass sweetness on the nose
Founded at Pencaitland in East with vanilla notes on the palate leading
Lothian in 1825, Glenkinchie to a faint spiciness on the finish.
(www.discovering-distilleries.com)
Bladnoch, near Wigtown, is a small boutique
was originally known as the Milton distillery, with an annual production of just
Distillery. The stills ran cold in the 11,250 gallons (51,000 liters).
110 whiskey nations
Grain Distilleries
There is a common misconception that grain whisky is virtually
neutral alcohol, lacks character, and is produced principally to provide
comparatively cheap spirit to bulk out blends. Ask any Scotch whisky
blender, however, and they will tell you that this is far from the case.
Every Scotch grain whisky available “Central Belt,” one at Invergordon,

varies significantly in style and adds in the Highlands, and one at Girvan,
different dimensions to the particular on the west coast of Ayrshire.
blend that is being constructed.
We rarely get the opportunity to sample grain whisky distillation
single grain whiskies in their own right Grain whisky is distilled in column stills
because almost all the grain in a continuous process, as
output is destined for opposed to malt whisky, which
blending, and few bottlings is made in batches in pot stills.
are made available by the Scottish distiller Robert
distilleries. However, Stein pioneered continuous
independent bottlers distillation, but it took the
offer a surprisingly Dublin-born, former
wide selection of older Grain whisky is a mix of exciseman Aeneas Coffey
single grains, many of which cereals, including some to perfect the process in
malted barley.
come from distilleries that 1830 (see p172).
have fallen silent (see p111). Coffey’s invention revolutionized the
In 1980, there were 12 working grain production of grain whisky—not only
distilleries in Scotland, but today just could cheaper raw materials be used, but
seven survive, with five in the industrial the alcohol content of the spirit distilled
was higher, too. It paved the way for the
creation of blended whisky later in the
Until 20 years ago, shipments of corn from North
America were disembarked at the port of Girvan. century. To this day, most of the stills
They were then transferred by road to Grant’s used in the manufacture of Scotch grain
grain distillery nearby. whisky are called Coffey stills.
scotland: grain distilleries 111
Cameronbridge Hedonism blended grain whisky

Windygates, Leven, Fife One of the most interesting developments in the
world of grain whiskies in recent years has been the
Founded in 1824 by John release of the first blended (vatted) grain whisky.
Haig, Cameronbridge was Going by the name of Hedonism, it was the
the first distillery in Scotland brainchild of innovative whisky entrepreneur
to produce grain whisky in John Glaser and his Compass Box company.
column stills. It was also
It comprises a blend of grains of varying ages
one of the six founding
from the Cambus and Caledonian distilleries.
distilleries of the Distillers
Company in 1877. Today, “I believe that great grain whiskies from well-
Cameronbridge has three chosen casks are the undiscovered treasures of
Coffey stills, and, along with Scotland’s whisky kingdom,” says Glaser. And,
Port Dundas, is one of the indeed, Hedonism is a smooth, silky, and
two grain whisky distilleries eminently drinkable whisky—soft and sweet
wholly owned by Diageo. with a comparatively complex palate, displaying
Cameronbridge does not vanilla, toffee, coconut, and cocoa notes.
only distil grain
whisky, however; For John Glaser, “grain whisky is
a further nine stills one of the most elegant, delicious
also make “grain whiskies on the planet”.
neutral spirit” for
use in gin and vodka
distillation. As such, is a key component of Bell’s,
it is the largest Johnnie Walker, and White Girvan
grain distillery in Horse blends, and is Grangestone Industrial Estate,
Scotland, with a considered to be one of the Girvan, Ayrshire
capacity of 15.5 fuller-bodied grain whiskies www.williamgrant.com
million gallons on the market.
(70 million liters) Cameron Brig Single Grain After Bladnoch (see p108),
of grain whisky Whisky 40% ABV • Bottled by Girvan is the southernmost
a year and a Diageo, Cameron Brig is the working distillery in Scotland.
further 6.6 most readily available of the It was constructed in 1963
million gallons Scottish single grains. A clean by William Grant & Sons,
(30 million liters) nose, smooth and elegant, its west-coast location chosen
Cameron Brig of grain neutral sweet and slightly spicy, with partly to facilitate the import
12-Year-Old spirit. a more sherried character of corn by sea from North
Single Grain Cameronbridge than might be expected. America. However, since
The industrial appearance of

Cameronbridge is a stark contrast
to Scotland’s malt distilleries.
112 whiskey nations
the mid-1980s, Girvan has

distilled from wheat, in
common with most Scottish
grain distilleries.
The original Coffey stills
have been superseded by
a complex, five-column
vacuum-distillation plant,
unique to Girvan, which
produces some 11 million
gallons (50 million liters)
of grain whisky and grain
neutral spirit a year.
Girvan is also now a major
blending and warehousing
center for Grant’s operations. year. For some years, a 10- When it came on stream in 1887,
Between 1966–1975, the year-old expression of North British produced 25,000
Girvan site was home to Invergordon single grain was gallons (114,000 liters) a week.
the Ladyburn malt distillery. marketed. It was soft, clean, Today, it turns out 10 times that.
Girvan grain whisky is one and straightforward, with
of the lighter grains used by big, sweet toffee notes. Initial wine notes on the
blenders, and is at the heart of nose, then fresher vanilla
Grant’s Family Reserve. and cereals emerge. Well
Black Barrel Single Loch Lomond mannered on the palate,
Grain Whisky 40% ABV Alexandria West,
with caramel, vanilla ice
Delicate and fragrant Dunbartonshire cream, and a hint of ginger.
on the nose, fruity, with www.lochlomond
Malty caramel notes linger
vanilla and a hint of distillery.com in the finish, with a sting of
spice. Soft on the palate, pepper in the tail.
with sweet cereal notes. Loch Lomond is the
newest recruit to the
line-up of Scottish North British
Invergordon grain distilleries and Wheatfield Road, Gorgie,
Cottage Brae,
is the only one that Edinburgh
Invergordon, Ross-shire produces both malt www.northbritish.co.uk
www.whyteand
and grain whisky.
mackay.com The distillery dates North British is Edinburgh’s
from 1965, and was only surviving distillery and
Invergordon’s eastern initially constructed is located in the capital’s
Highlands location, to produce just malt Gorgie suburb. It was set up in
far from the blending whisky. The grain 1885 by a group of influential
halls of central distillery was built blenders, and the “NB,” as
Scotland, was chosen alongside the malt it is affectionately known,
to boost the area’s An early bottling plant in 1993–4 and retained its independence
flagging economy. of Girvan Single its single Coffey still until 1993, when it was jointly
Built between 1959 Grain turns out some 2.2 acquired by Diageo and The
and 1961, the million gallons Edrington Group.
distillery belongs to Whyte (10 million liters) a year. Three Coffey stills turn out
& Mackay, who purchased The whole complex is owned around 14 million gallons
the Invergordon Distillers by the Bulloch family, who (64 million liters) a year.
Group in 1993, principally can trace their involvement North British is unique
to acquire the Invergordon in the Scotch whisky trade among grain distilleries in
grain distillery and thereby back to 1842, when Gabriel that it operates its own
secure a guaranteed supply Bulloch partnered JH Dewar maltings and continues to
of grain spirit for its own in a Scotch wholesaling distil from maize, rather than
blending requirements. business in Glasgow. the cheaper alternative of
A small malt facility was Loch Lomond Distillery wheat. Additionally, it uses
installed in the Invergordon Select Single Highland Grain around 15 percent of “green
complex in 1965 and Whisky 45% ABV • In 2005, malt,” compared with the
operated for 11 years. Loch Lomond released more usual 10 percent of
Invergordon grain distillery Scotland’s first single cask, dried malt content used in
has four Coffey stills and a organic, single grain whisky, other grain distilleries.
capacity of 8.8 million which was matured in French The result is a rich, full-
gallons (40 million liters) a organic wine hogsheads. flavored whisky, much
scotland: grain distilleries 113
tangier and sharper than

that made from wheat, and four GRAIN DISTILLERIES that are now silent
with a more obvious vanilla Caledonian
note that is characteristic of Along with North British, Caledonian was one of two working
corn distillation. grain distilleries in Edinburgh, until its closure in 1988, two
years after Guinness took over its owner, the Distillers Company.
Port Dundas Established in 1855, in the Haymarket area, Caledonian was
the largest grain distillery in Britain for some years. Some of
North Canal, the warehouses survive, while the still house has been
Bank Street, Glasgow
converted into apartments. Caledonian’s tall, brick chimney
One of Glasgow’s two continues to act as a landmark in the Scottish capital.
grain distilleries, Port Cambus
Dundas stands beside the Located at Tullibody, in Clackmannanshire, and dating from
Forth & Clyde Canal and 1806, Cambus was well-regarded by blenders for the quality
dates back to the early 19th of its spirit. Part of the Distillers Company, it became surplus
century. Until the 1860s, to requirement when Guinness took over, and closed in 1993.
when they amalgamated, The site is now used by Diageo for cask filling and maturation.
there were two neighboring Carsebridge
Port Dundas distilleries. Like Cambus, Carsebridge was a large-scale Clackmannanshire
Both began to make grain distillery. It was built by the Bald family in 1799, and switched
whisky using Coffey stills from malt to grain whisky production in the early 1850s.
in 1845. Carsebridge closed in 1983. From the site, Diageo now runs its
Port Dundas operates under
“Spirits Supply, Scotland” operation, which is responsible for
the auspices of Diageo, who
boast between 35–40 percent the company’s entire UK spirits production.
of Scotland’s total grain Dumbarton
whisky output. Port Dundas The vast, red-brick Dumbarton Distillery was constructed on
contributes significantly to all the Clyde coast in 1938 by the Canadian distiller Hiram Walker,
the principal Diageo blends, though it ultimately became part of the Allied Domecq empire.
including Haig, Johnnie It is the most recent Scottish grain distillery to close, falling
Walker, and White Horse. silent in 2002. Dumbarton distilled with corn rather than
Traditionally, Port Dundas wheat and produced a full-bodied and distinctive grain whisky.
was considered one of the
more full-bodied and
characterful grain whiskies, increasing Strathclyde’s and most “meaty” of the
but has become rather capacity from 7 million grain whiskies, especially
lighter in recent years. Three gallons (32 million liters) a when young. As at Girvan
Coffey stills are in operation, year to 8.6 million gallons and Invergordon, a small
producing around 8.6 (39 million liters) a year. malt distillery operated
million gallons (39 million The facility is equipped within the Strathclyde
liters) of whisky a year. with two column stills, complex between 1958–1976
which manufacture grain under the name Kinclaith.
whisky, and five that make
Strathclyde grain neutral spirit. Port Dundas was modernized in
Moffat Street, Glasgow
Strathclyde is considered to the 1970s, gaining new, up-to-
be one of the fullest-bodied date whiskymaking facilities.
The first grain spirit flowed
from Strathclyde in 1928.
The distillery was constructed
by Seager Evans & Co.,
the owners of Long John
blended whisky, in the
Gorbals district of Glasgow.
Through a series of
takeovers, it passed to
Allied Domecq, and the
plant has been owned by
Chivas Brothers since its
acquisition of Allied
Domecq assets in 2005.
Having closed Dumbarton
grain distillery in 2002, Allied
spent more than $13 million
The Scottish Lowlands
produce top quality cereal
crops for whiskymaking.
116 whisky nations
Blended Whisky
“The art of combining meticulously selected, mature, high-quality
whiskies, each with its own flavor and other characteristics, with such
skill that the whole is better than the sum of its parts, so that each makes
its contribution to the finished blend without any one predominating.”
These were the words of David for this is that for much of the
MacDonald, the last member 18th century there was an
of the MacDonald family to ongoing battle between legal
be chairman of Glenmorangie, and illegal distilling. By the
before its sale to LVMH, the 1780s, large-scale distilling
French-based luxury goods from grain had been developed
conglomerate, in 2004. It is a in the Lowlands by the Haig
definition of blending that has and Stein families. In contrast,
seldom been bettered. Yet, it it was the smaller, pot still
is perhaps somewhat idealized, production, largely artisanal in
ignoring as it does the pricing Grant’s Premium nature, that characterized the
pressures that drive the 12-Year-Old Highland output. Disputes
creation of so many standard between the two were constant.
and secondary (cheaper) blends. It also
reflects only the skill of blending and New Laws
not its troubled history. In the 1820s, new legislation helped the
Despite the fact that the whisky industry whole industry to legitimacy (see p47),
makes much play of its roots in the 15th and its potential was transformed in
century, few distilleries can trace their 1827 by Robert Stein, who invented a
history back beyond the 1820s. The reason method of continuous distillation. Rapidly
perfected by Aeneas Coffey (see p172),
In the blending room of John Walker’s and Sons’
the continuous still allows the production
Barleith complex, barrels of whisky are poured into of a more lightly flavored spirit from
16 troughs in readiness for blending. cheaper ingredients. It is a more consistent
scotland: blended whisky 117
method of distillation, spread whisky’s fame,

too, and achieves a and the fashion for
higher alcohol content drinking whisky with
in the spirit than the soda water helped the
product of a pot still. new blends. The
Yet, blending as we depredation of the
understand it today did French cognac industry,
not emerge until after caused by the destructive
the Spirits Act of 1860. phylloxera louse in the
Importantly, this 1880s, opened a gap
legislation permitted in the market that was
whiskies from different quickly exploited by
distilleries to be blended innovative, energetic
“under bond” (before entrepreneurial whisky
the payment of excise blenders such as Usher,
duty). By reducing the Alexander Walker, John
amount of cash tied up Haig Gold Label and The Dimple and Tommy Dewar, and
in stock, the blender was James Buchanan. Their
able to experiment more freely, and, names live on in the names of some of
in an unforeseen but wholly beneficial the famous brands, even if the companies
consequence, it became possible to they created have long since been
“marry” (age) the resultant blend, thus absorbed in the ruthless consolidation
further improving its flavor. that followed World War II.
The first man to realize the full potential
of blending was Andrew Usher, who, Anti-blend feelings
since 1853, had been selling Usher’s Old But not everyone cared for the impact of
Vatted Glenlivet, a blended malt. He “silent spirit,” as grain whisky was known.
could see the possibilities of a consistent Sir Walter Gilbey, proprietor of Glen Spey,
and repeatable product that combined Strathmill, and Knockando Distilleries,
the full flavor of the Highland single railed against it as “nearly free from
malts with the lightness and taste and smell,” and the
economy of grain whisky. Irish distilling industry, in a
commercially suicidal move,
Scotch Supremacy turned their face against
At about the same time, blending (see p159). The
several trends combined to North of Scotland Malt
favor blended Scotch whisky. Distillers’ Association also
Scotland had become fought a long rearguard action
popular with the English. against the incursions of grain.
The opening of railroad links The argument was settled,
to the Highlands began at least in a legal sense, by the
the development of mass 1908–1909 Royal Commission
tourism, initially with the Nosing has always been on Whiskey. In a landmark
upper classes (strongly the key to creating great decision, it resolved that both
influenced by Queen Victoria blended whisky. grain and single malt spirit
and Prince Albert), who came for the could be sold as “whisky,” clearing the
field sports. They were subsequently way for the modern industry.
followed by middle-class tourists, who Today, more than 90 percent of all
saw Scotland as fashionable, its rugged the Scotch whisky sold in the world is a
landscape more grand and romantic blend, with the great brands each selling
than any English vistas. Sir Edwin well over a million cases annually.
Landseer’s painting Monarch of the Glen As the foundation stone of the
(1851) expresses this relationship. Scotch whisky industry, blended whisky
The role of Scottish regiments, is today in good heart and its future
administrators, and traders in the seems assured. The whole is indeed
creation of the British Empire helped better than the sum of its parts.
118 whiskey nations
Scotch Blends
The general trend in recent decades has been toward rationalization, with
fewer and fewer companies controlling more and more brands. But there
are signs of a renaissance in craft blending, too, with both independent
companies and large players producing limited edition blends.
of Pernod Ricard), so
100 PIPERS that today it is one of the
Owner: Chivas Brothers world’s top 10 selling blends.
It is the best-selling whisky
The sight of 100 pipers in full in Thailand, a dynamic
flow would undoubtedly be market for Scotch, and is
an awe-inspiring one, and it growing rapidly in many
did indeed inspire a well- other countries, especially
known Scottish air, which Spain, Venezuela, Australia,
commemorates the march and India.
of Bonnie Prince Charlie 100 Pipers 40% ABV
on the city of Carlisle. As A light and very mixable
the song relates, the English whisky, with a smooth,
army reacted as you might subtly smoky taste.
expect: “Dumfoun’er’d they
heard the blaw, the blaw; The Antiquary 12-Year-Old
Dumfoun’er’d they a’ ran The Antiquary
awa’, awa.’” Owner: Tomatin Distillery
re-establish The Antiquary.
When the Seagram New packaging that harks
Company was looking for This famous old blend, first back to the old bottle has
a contender in the “value” introduced in 1857 by John been introduced.
sector of the Scotch whisky and William Hardie, takes The Antiquary House Style
market in 1965, they its name from a novel by As befits its deluxe status,
too drew inspiration the early 19th-century there is at the heart of
from the song and writer Sir Walter Scott. The Antiquary a very high
named their brand For many years this blend malt to grain ratio, which
100 Pipers. No doubt, was the product of includes some of the finest
they had similar hopes William Sanderson malts from Speyside and the
that the competition (of VAT 69 fame), until Highlands. Their flavors are
would flee in fear. it was sold by United balanced by Lowland malt,
With a competitive Distillers (forerunners which adds gentleness to the
price tag, 100 Pipers of Diageo) in 1996. profile. The subtle fruitiness
proved an immediate Today, it is owned by has a hint of apples. The
success in many The Tomatin Distillery result of the high malt
markets, but not in Co., which is itself a content is depth of flavor,
the UK, where it was subsidiary of Takara outstanding smoothness,
rather looked down Shuzo and Okura Ltd and a long aftertaste.
upon, perhaps of Japan. The Antiquary 21-year-old
unfairly. The blend For many years, 40% ABV• This is a premium
contains Braeval The Antiquary was a blend that combines the
and Allt a’ Bhainne well-regarded luxury
among its fillings, 100 Pipers blend, packaged in percentage ABV
and probably some a handsome faceted
Glenlivet and Longmorn as bottle that looked similar The vast majority of Scotch
well, and it may be that its to a decanter. blends are bottled for the
pale color affected the Sadly, it was not regarded market at 40 percent ABV
perceptions of some UK as a priority by United (alcohol by volume). Malt
drinkers accustomed to Distillers and sales fell away, whiskies tend to be a little
darker colored blends. until the name and blend higher, commonly 43
Seagram’s developed the recipe were eventually sold. percent, while cask-
brand very effectively and The new owners now offer strength whisky is bottled
it has continued to grow 12 and 21-year-old versions at a strength of between
under its new owners, Chivas of the brand, and appear to 50–60 percent ABV.
Brothers (the spirits division be making some effort to
Scotland: blended whisky 119
signature style with a dash Bailie Nicol Jarvie 40% ABV

of Islay malt to create an Bailie Nicol Jarvie Smooth, subtle, and full of
exceptional dram. A light Owner: Glenmorangie character, it has a delicate
maltiness with muted peaty balance of sweet Speyside,
notes allows the heather, Bailie Nicol Jarvie, or BNJ aromatic Highland, and
dandelion, and blackcurrant as it is commonly known in peaty Islay malt whiskies
notes to flourish. A smooth, Scotland, is produced by blended with only the finest
full-bodied whisky with a Glenmorangie and has long grain whisky. Definitely one
lingering taste. been rated by enthusiasts as to show off to your friends.
a particularly fine blended
whisky. Accordingly, it has
Asyla acquired something of Ballantine’s
Owner: Compass Box
a cult following, with its Owner: Chivas Brothers
Whisky Company acolytes torn between
wishing the company Ballantine’s may have
Asyla is a blended would promote the the most extensive range
whisky produced by the brand a good deal more of blended Scotch in the
Compass Box Whisky enthusiastically and world today. It includes
Company, headed by savoring the idea of Ballantine’s Finest and a
self-styled “whisky being one of the host of blends with various
zealot” John Glaser, cognoscenti. age statements, among
who works rather in Reputedly first them 12, 17, 21, and
the manner of a produced in 1893 by 30‑year-old versions.
negociant, aiming to Alexander Muir and Ballantine’s were pioneers
create some of Roderick Macdonald of aged blends and first
Scotland’s premier (the predecessors to produced their flagship
whiskies through the Glenmorangie 30-year-old in the late 1920s,
the art of blending. Company), Bailie from special stocks of malt
The name Asyla Nicol Jarvie is named and grain Scotch that had
comes from the plural after a character in been set aside years before,
of the word “asylum.” Sir Walter Scott’s with the idea of creating a
As Glaser explains: Asyla from novel Rob Roy. In super-premium product
“It is simply a word Compass Box one famous incident already in mind.
I like because of the in the book, the This foresight enabled the
various connotations it can Bailie, a Scottish magistrate, brand to establish a strong,
have. Are we talking distinguished himself by competitive position at the
sanctuary, madhouse, a tackling a fierce Highlander top of the market, which,
little of both?” with a red-hot poker. The despite various changes of
From this you may discern poker itself (actually a ownership (see p121), has
that Compass Box is not plough coulter) remains on stood the company in good
your average whiskymaker. display outside the Bailie stead ever since.
In fact, though the company Nicol Jarvie Hotel, in Relatively hard to find in
is relatively small, it enjoys Aberfoyle. the UK market, Ballantine’s
a disproportionate influence Long reputed to contain a Finest has long been popular
on current thinking within healthy measure of both elsewhere in Europe,
the industry and has won a Glenmorangie and Glen and the more premium
high number of awards. Moray single malts, expressions enjoy huge
Compass Box whiskies are Bailie Nicol Jarvie has success in the Far East,
not cheap, for which Glaser one of the highest especially in China,
makes no apology. They malt contents of Japan, South
are, however, beautifully any blended whisky Korea, and Asian
packaged and very, very good. on the market, and duty-free markets.
Asyla 40% ABV • The blend contains only “first- The range
comprises equal proportions class” ranked malts now sells nearly
of single grain and malt in the blend. 5.5 million
whiskies, containing The bottle label 2-gallon
Cragganmore, Linkwood, has a delightful (9-liter) cases a
and Glen Elgin malts, and period feel, year, making it
Cambus and Cameron apparently the world’s third-
Bridge grains, all from first- untouched by the biggest selling
fill bourbon barrels, naturally hand of marketing Scotch whisky
colored, and non chill- —though in fact it by volume.
filtered. Asyla is a tour de force was subtly revamped Ballantine’s The blend is
from a true lover of whisky. in the mid-1990s. Finest noted for its
120 whiskey nations
complexity, with more than

40 different malts and grains Bell’s Baxter’s Barley bree
being used in the mix. The Owner: Diageo The wonderfully named
two Speyside single malts Baxter’s Barley Bree is
from Glenburgie and Brand leadership in the today owned by Diageo,
Miltonduff form the base emotionally charged Scottish but, despite efforts to
for the blend, but malts market was conceded to The revive the brand in the
from all parts of Scotland Famous Grouse (see p132) in 1990s, it appears to be
are also employed. For 1980, but Diageo has taken a currently moribund. For
maturation, Ballantine’s number of steps to consolidate traditionalists, this is a
favor principally the use the position of Bell’s as the matter of some regret, as
of ex-bourbon barrels, for UK’s overall best-selling Baxter’s Barley Bree was
their vanilla influences and Scotch. Visitor facilities at once an important brand
sweet creamy notes. the Blair Athol Distillery in of the large Dundee-based
Balantine’s house style Pitlochry (see p79)—the distiller James Watson &
In keeping with spiritual home of Bell’s Co., which was eventually
Ballantine’s distinguished and the source of the absorbed into the Distillers
pedigree, there is a single malt at the heart Company in the 1920s. The
specific Ballantine’s family of the blend—have been name carries enormous
signature style flowing enhanced, and, in 1994, resonance for those who
through the range. the blend itself was care to look below the
All Ballantine’s aged, upgraded. Bell’s Extra surface. “Barley” is, of
blended whiskies are Special is now an course, the raw material of
elegant and balanced, 8‑year-old, the only whisky and “bree” is the
with a distinctive soft major blend to be old Scots word for broth or
and sweet flavor. matured for that liquor and, by extension, a
However, care is length of time. synonym for whisky.
also taken to ensure Besides Blair Athol,
that each product the two original Bell’s
throughout the range distilleries, Dufftown decanter has been produced
has its own individual and Inchgower, are each Christmas. The most
personality. All are key components of sought-after is the Charles
characterized by the blend, along with and Diana decanter that
some degree of Caol Ila, from Islay, commemorated their 1981
complexity, but the and the Lowlander, marriage. It fetches up to
younger versions Bell’s Glenkinchie. $5,000 (when full, naturally).
are fresher, with more 8-Year-Old Bell’s also produces Bell’s 8-Year-old 40% ABV
immediate appeal. exclusively for the UK A medium-bodied blend,
Ballantine’s a premium blended malt with a nutty aroma and
17-Year-Old 40% ABV called Special Reserve, in a lightly spiced flavor.
In this expression, a deep, which a touch more Islay
balanced, and elegant whisky may be detected in the blend.
announces itself, with a hint Even rarer are the Benmore
of wood and vanilla. The collectable Bell’s decanters. Owner: Diageo
body is full and creamy, and They were first produced in
has a vibrant, honeyed the 1930s, and since 1988 a In response to the growing
sweetness, with hints of market for blended Scotch in
oak and peat smoke on the Thailand, Diageo launched
palate. Some tasters have Benmore in 2005. Meaning
detected a hint of salt “the big hill” in Gaelic,
in this whisky, and in the Benmore is a revival of an
12-year-old expression too. old name that was acquired
Ballantine’s 21-Year-old & by the Distillers Company
Ballantine’s 30-Year-Old 40% ABV (DCL) in 1929, when they
Such older expressions are bought Benmore Distillers.
characterized by a deeper Benmore operated Dallas
color and traces of heather, Dhu, Lochindaal, and
smoke, liquorice, and Lochhead distilleries, all
aromatic spice on the nose of which have now been
and body. The medium to silent for many years.
heavy palate is complex yet This latest incarnation of
harmoniously balanced, with Blair Athol Distillery provides the Benmore contains 18 malts
rich, mellow sherry, honey, malt at the heart of Bell’s, and is and grain whiskies and is
and floral notes. home to the Bell’s vistor center. offered as a 5-year-old.
the ballantine’s story

In 1827, at the age of 19, George Ballantine opened his first grocery
and whisky business in Edinburgh. Proving to be an exceptional
entrepreneur, he had a growing reputation by 1837 and moved to
a prestigious address at the very heart of this prosperous city.
Edinburgh was one of the richest establishing blended Scotch as the

cities in the world at the time, and leading international drink.
Ballantine’s new address on South By 1881, Ballantine’s was already
Bridge, near Princes Street, exporting blended whisky to a
showed that he was a man worldwide market.
with ambition and confidence. A royal warrant to Queen
He began innovative Victoria and subsequently to
experimentation, blending King Edward followed, but in
different whiskies from 1936 Ballantine’s was bought
different distilleries to produce by the Canadian firm Hiram
something lighter and more Walker, as one of their first
sophisticated. This led him Ballantine’s
moves into the Scotch whisky
to create a consistent house 12-Year-Old market. Hiram Walker
style for his customers, and so merged with Allied Vintners
Ballantine’s became one of the very in 1987, and Allied Distillers was created
first whisky brands. the following year. Eventually, Pernod
By 1869, Ballantine had expanded Ricard acquired Allied Domecq (as
his business into Glasgow, and from Allied Distillers was by then known) in
these premises he and his two sons July 2005, acting with Fortune Brands,
gained international status as purveyors who took the Teacher’s whisky business
of the finest-quality blended whisky. as their share of the break-up.
He continued to experiment—the effects Pernod’s whisky division, Chivas
of maturation on whisky, and the Brothers, has effectively relaunched
importance of first-fill cask selection the brand, and sales are now growing
were typical of Ballantine’s innovation rapidly, after a period of stagnation
and imagination, which were key to under the previous ownership.
Ballantine’s Distillery, by the Leven
River in Dumbarton, is soon to be turned
into modern apartments.
122 whiskey nations
the Bell family

“Several fine whiskies blended together please the palates of a greater
number of people than one whisky unmixed,” wrote Perth blender
Arthur Bell, and the total confidence he had in his products led him
to appoint a London agent as early as 1863.
Despite this, Bell’s remained a little- made a lengthy trip to North America,
known brand for another 50 especially Canada, and the brand
years or so, and didn’t really became the most popular in
hit its stride until as recently South Africa. The slogan
as the 1970s. This was in “Afore Ye Go,” which has
great part due to the served the company so well,
religious beliefs that dates from around this
shaped Arthur Bell, and period, though it was not
to his innate modesty. registered as a trademark
He refused to allow the until 1925. After a period in
family name to appear on a abeyance, it made a welcome
bottle, explaining that he return to the brand’s revamped
Arthur Bell
preferred “the qualities of my packaging, launched in 2006.
goods to speak for themselves.” Bell’s acquired the Blair Athol
His sons, Arthur Kinmond (A.K.) and and Dufftown Distilleries in 1933 and,
Robert, were considerably less idealistic three years later, added Inchgower.
and self-effacing, and, soon after their The family connection was severed
father’s death in 1900, set about in 1942 with the death of both Bell
making up for lost time. brothers, and William Farquharson
The prohibition on the use of the took over as chairman—a post he
Bell name was abandoned by 1904 and held until his demise in 1973.
a healthy export business in Australia
and New Zealand was quickly This portrait of the Bell’s staff was taken in the
early 1900s, in the period when Arthur Bell’s sons
established. Agents were appointed in had taken over and were not averse to branding
India, Ceylon, Italy, and France. A.K. the family name.
Perhaps both accounts are

true. Either way, it is a
pleasant memory of a
gentler age, far removed
from the focus groups and
brand strategies of today.
Black Bottle
Owner: Burn Stewart Distillers
Another well-loved blend

with a long history, Black
Bottle was first created by
C D & G Grahams, an
Aberdeen firm of tea
blenders, in 1879. After
surviving various vicissitudes,
the company was sold to
Long John International in
1964. Allied Lyons acquired
the brand in 1990 and
started to invest in it, but in
turn sold it on to Highland
Distillers in 1995.
That was not the end of
its travels, however, because
in April 2003 Highland then
sold Black Bottle—along
with the Bunnahabhain
Distillery on Islay—to the
current owners, Burn
Stewart Distillers, who
Advertising for Black & White returning home from a dog are themselves part of
whisky always made use of two show. Soon after, the black CL WorldBrands Ltd., a
dogs: a black Scottish terrier and a Scottish terrier and the white multinational drinks group
white West Highland terrier. West Highland terrier were based in Trinidad.
adopted as the brand’s motif. There are two excellent
The alternative and variants, Black Bottle and
Black & White equally plausible version Black Bottle 10-Year-Old.
Owner: Diageo
is that James Buchanan Great efforts have been
supplied his whisky to the made by Burn Stewart to
A long-lived and much-loved UK’s House of Commons, invest in the packaging
brand from the Buchanan’s where, in a very dark and, more importantly,
stable (see p124), Black & bottle with a white label, the blend quality. Many
White is today marketed by it was sold under the commentators agree that
Diageo in France, Brazil, name “Buchanan’s the blend profile now
and Venezuela, where it Special.” Supposedly resembles, as nearly as
continues to enjoy a incapable of can be determined, that
popularity that it has long memorizing the of the original 19th-
since lost in its homeland. whisky’s real century whisky.
There are two accounts name, British Black Bottle 40% ABV
of how the brand came to parliamentarians The blend contains
have its name and carry the would call instead malts from seven
distinctive symbol of two for “Black and Islay distilleries,
terrier dogs, one black and White.” The name along with hefty
the other white. eventually stuck helpings of the
One version has it that and, instinctive company’s Deanston
James Buchanan, the brand’s marketer that he malt. The nose is
owner, was an ardent animal was, Buchanan fresh and fruity, with
lover and conceived the adopted the name hints of peat, while
idea for one of the world’s and subsequently the palate is full, with
most famous trademarks in adorned the label Black a slightly honeyed
the 1890s, when he was with the two dogs. & White sweetness, followed
124 whiskey nations
by a distinctive smoky flavor. is once again showing signs

The finish is long, warming, that it is prospering. Catto’s
with a smoky, Islay character. The original James Owner: Inver House Distillers
Black Bottle Buchanan was one of
10-year-old 40% ABV the most notable “whisky Aberdeen-based whisky
This expression again barons” and a larger-than- blender James Catto set
contains malt from seven life character. Starting up in business in 1861
Islay distilleries. Accordingly, in London in 1879 and his whiskies soon
“peat freaks” will find this as an agent for achieved international
very much to their taste. But Mackinlay’s, he soon distribution on the
steer away if you are not a began trading on his shipping lines White
fan of the traditional peaty own account, with Star and P&O, both
and phenolic Islay character. capital loaned from of which were
Black Bottle 10-Year-Old is a a friend. A born founded by former
big, no-nonsense whisky that salesman, he schoolfriends.
takes no prisoners. repaid the loan Ownership
within a year and passed to Gilbey’s
rapidly saw his after the death
the Black Douglas whisky, then called of James’s son
Owner: Chivas Brothers
Buchanan’s Special Robert during
(see p124), adopted World War I.
The first Black Douglas in the House of More recently,
was a 14th-century Scottish Commons. His it was acquired
soldier and knight who genius for publicity by Inver House
fought with King Robert also led him to be Chivas Distillers, who
the Bruce in the Scottish an early pioneer Regal 25 are themselves
Wars of Independence. of newspaper owned by the
The Black Douglas Scotch advertising. Thai Beverage Public
was created by Seagram’s, His main rival at the Company (ThaBev).
and thus eventually acquired time was Tommy Dewar (see Catto’s is a deluxe, fully
by Pernod Ricard, who in p131). This extended beyond matured, and complex
2002 signed a long-term bulk the world of whisky, and in blend, fresh and clean with
spirit supply arrangement direct competition with a lingering, warm finish.
with Carlton United Dewar, Buchanan’s horses Two versions are available:
Breweries, of Australia, to won the Derby twice. a non-age standard and a
support their local bottling However, Buchanan’s later 12-year-old style.
of The Black Douglas. merged with Dewar’s in 1915, Catto’s 40% ABV
The Black Douglas is before they both joined the The standard Catto
described as “a well-balanced Distillers Company (DCL) in blend is aromatic and well-
grain and malt blend Scotch 1925. Wrapped up with the rounded in character with
whisky, a soft, well-aged fortunes of DCL, Buchanan’s a smooth, mellow finish.
product with a smooth finish is now a Diageo brand.
that appeals to Australians.” Today, the name is mainly
As well as a standard seen in Venezuela, Mexico, Chivas Regal
non‑age bottling, 8-year-old Colombia, and—to a lesser Owner: Chivas Brothers
and 12-year-old versions extent—the United
are offered. States, where, fittingly, Said to be a favorite of
it is positioned as a the late author and gonzo
premium style that journalist Hunter S
Buchanan’s reflects the prestige Thompson, Chivas Regal
Owner: Diageo
and tradition that suits is among the top five best-
the taste and values selling Scotch blends in
Buchanan’s is an of the Latin the world, and is one of
excellent example community. One the few truly global brands
of a brand that has feels that Buchanan in terms of distribution.
survived the ups himself would Speyside’s microclimate is
and downs foisted have approved. perfect for producing the
upon them by Two variants single malts that are major
changes of are produced: components of the Chivas
ownership and a 12-year-old Regal blends, and special
consolidation and Buchanan’s mention should go to
within the whisky Special Reserve, Strathisla, whose rich and
industry. Indeed, Buchanan’s an18‑year-old full malt whisky has long
Buchanan’s today 12-Year-Old expression. been at the heart of them.
Venezuela to the Middle

CLAN CAMPBELL East and Thailand, but
Owner: Chivas Brothers not—to any noticeable
extent at least—in Scotland.
Another million-case-selling For all its anonymity in its
brand from Pernod Ricard’s homeland, however, Clan
Chivas Brothers, Clan MacGregor’s sales approach
Campbell is a leading a very respectable 1.5 million
standard brand in the cases annually, and it is
dynamic French market. claimed by its owners,
In fact, it is something of a William Grant & Sons,
phenomenon, having only to be one of the
been launched as recently world’s fastest-
as 1984. The brand is not growing major
Hunter S. Thompson, the writer available in the UK, but may Scotch whisky
and journalist, was reputed to be be found in Italy, Spain, and brands.
a huge fan of Chivas Regal. some East Asian markets, The bottle
as well as in France. label proudly
Chivas Regal 18 was Prior to this, the House carries the Clan
launched in 1997 and is a of Campbell can trace its MacGregor badge
super-premium blend with history to 1879, when it and motto, and,
Strathisla 18-Year-Old was based in Glasgow. In with his kind
(an expression that’s not 1945, the company acquired permission, the
available as a single malt) Aberlour Distillery, later personal crest
contributing to its adding Perthshire’s of the 24th
memorable warm finish. tiny Edradour, which Clan Chief,
For many years, Chivas it subsequently sold. Sir Malcolm
Regal was positioned In 1988, a series of MacGregor
as a luxury good, and mergers and acquisitions of MacGregor.
consistent and heavy brought Clan Campbell Given its Clan
advertising ensured into the ownership parentage and MacGregor
its leading position. of Pernod Ricard, price point, the
Today, under the and substantial blend would seem likely to
ownership of Pernod growth followed. contain Grant’s own malts
Ricard, innovative Despite its relative (Glenfiddich, Balvenie, and
marketing, such as youth, its origins are Kininvie) and grain whisky
an online broadband now inextricably from Grant’s substantial
TV channel in entwined with Girvan operation.
partnership with Scottish heritage,
Microsoft, has thanks to clever
brought success marketing and a link The Claymore
in new markets. to the Duke of Argyll, Owner: Whyte & Mackay
Chivas Regal 12 head of the clan.
40% ABV • An aromatic Clan Campbell 40% ABV Derived from claidheamh mòr,
infusion of wild Clan The blend largely a Gaelic term meaning
herbs, heather, Campbell comprises Speyside “great sword,” a claymore
honey, and orchard malts (Aberlour and is a Highland broadsword.
fruits, with a radiant warm Glenallachie in particular) The name was deemed an
amber color. Round and and selected grain whiskies. appropriate one to use by
creamy on the palate, with a It is a smooth, light whisky the Distillers Company
full, rich taste of honey and with a fruity finish. (DCL) when, in 1977, they
ripe apples, and notes of attempted to recover market
vanilla, butterscotch, and share lost by the withdrawal
hazelnut. Rich and lingering. Clan MacGregor from the UK of their
Chivas Regal 18 40% ABV Owner: William Grant & Sons
Johnnie Walker Red Label.
An intense dark amber color, Driven largely by price, this
with multilayered aromas of It is unlikely that you will was an immediate success,
dried fruits, spice, and come across a bottle of and The Claymore was for a
buttery toffee. Exceptionally Clan MacGregor in the UK, while one of the best-selling
rich and smooth, with a because this “secondary” whiskies in the country.
velvety, dark chocolate (low-priced) blend is sold In 1985, during the battle
palate, elegant floral notes largely in North America and for ownership of the
and a wisp of sweet in more than 60 countries Distillers Company, the
mellow smokiness. around the world, from brand was sold to Glasgow-
126 whiskey nations
the chivas brothers

Though a link can be traced to wine merchant William Edward’s
grocery store in Castle Street, Aberdeen, and the owner’s partnership
with a young farmer called James Chivas, in 1837, the story of the
Chivas Brothers really starts some 20 years later.
In 1857, James Chivas producing consistently

dissolved his partnership smooth, high-quality
with William Edward and blended whiskies.
joined his brother John Their standards were
to form Chivas Brothers. carried forward by
They planned to develop James Chivas’s assistants,
an already successful trade, Alexander Smith and
which had begun to Charles Howard, and,
prosper with an order to in 1909, the company went
supply nearby Balmoral Created in 1909, Chivas on to create the Chivas
Regal was a top seller
Castle, Queen Victoria’s around the world by 1949.
Regal premium blend.
Highland home. In 1843, In 1949, the firm was
James Chivas had been granted acquired by Seagram’s, of Canada, by
a royal warrant as grocers. which time Chivas Regal 12-Year-Old
With the advantage of this regal was one of the best-selling premium
connection, the business expanded brands of whisky in the world. In
dramatically. In imitation of Queen 1950, Seagram bought Strathisla
Victoria, many members of the British Distillery and, seven years later, to
gentry came to Scotland to hunt, shoot keep up with demand, constructed
stags, fish for salmon, and, of course, new facilities at Glen Keith (see p61).
drink Scotch. Order books from the The redoubtable Sam Bronfman,
1880s proudly list emperors, princes of the owning family, took personal
and peers, admirals and generals, responsibility for guiding the re-
bishops and professors among the blending of Chivas Regal.
company’s customers. In the latter years of Seagram’s
James and John Chivas were ownership, the brand faded somewhat,
pioneers of the art of blending, but has been successfully reinvigorated
under Pernod Ricard’s energetic
Chivas Brothers bought Strathisla Distillery in
1950 to safeguard supplies of the malt whisky that management, and is once again a
was at the heart of their blend. major and dynamic force in whisky.
based Whyte & Mackay favorite by the time in the world, and one of great
(now owned by the they joined the Distillers character and quality. The
UB Group). The Company (DCL) in 1944. name was inspired by the
Claymore The brand continued fastest and most famous of
continued to to sell well, but was all the Scottish-built clipper
sell well for not of strategic ships, itself named after the
some time, but significance to its young witch dressed in a
the sales volume owners, hence the “cutty sark” (a sort of short
has declined in recent decision to license shirt) in Robert
years and it is now the brand to Burns’s celebrated poem
principally seen as a Whyte & Mackay “Tam O’Shanter.’’
“secondary” (low- in 1986, though The nautical reference
priced) brand. Diageo, successors also echoes the brand’s early
Dalmore is believed to the Distillers days, when Captain William
to be the principal malt Company, retain McCoy, a famous American
whisky in the blend. the rights to the bootlegger, supplied Cutty
name Crawford’s 3 Sark to customers
Star Special Reserve in the United States
Cluny outside the UK. during Prohibition
Owner: Whyte & Mackay
Benrinnes single (hence the phrase
Claymore malt was a long-time “the real McCoy”).
Cluny is produced figurine component in the Cutty Sark
by Whyte & Mackay blend. A 5 Star remains an
and supplied in bulk to version was also produced important
Heaven Hill Distilleries of but later discontinued. brand in the
the US, who have imported United States
it since 1988. It is one of the and is also
United States’ top-selling, Cutty Sark enjoyed in
domestically bottled, blended Owner: Berry Brothers & Rudd Ltd. Southern
Scotch whiskies, and is sold Europe and
primarily on its competitive Blended and bottled in the Far East.
price. It does, however, Glasgow by The Edrington One of the
contain more than 30 malt Group (proprietors of The acclaimed
whiskies from all regions of Famous Grouse), who supply blended whiskies
Scotland, along with grain much of the whisky for the of the world,
whisky, presumably sourced blend, Cutty Sark is owned Cutty Sark uses
largely from Whyte & by London wine merchants some 20 single Cutty Sark
Mackay’s Invergordon plant. Berry Bros & Rudd. malts for the
It was created in 1923 by blend, many from the
Charles Julian, of London renowned distilleries of
Crawford’s blenders Porter, Dingwall & Speyside, such as Macallan
Owner: Whyte & Mackay/Diageo
Norris, for the partners of and Glenrothes.
Berry Bros & Rudd, who Maturation and marrying
The old-established Leith were looking to produce an the blend contribute to the
firm of A & A Crawford had innovative whisky. Cutty distinguishing qualities, and
developed their Crawford’s Sark was just that—the first wood for the casks in which
3 Star brand into a Scottish naturally pale-colored whisky the blend is matured is
carefully selected to bring
The Cutty Sark Label out the flavor and aroma, as
well as to impart color gently
The label was designed by James McBay, during the lengthy ageing
a Scottish artist friend of the owners. period. As well as the non-
McBay named the brand and designed age expression, there is a
the distinctive label over lunch in the deluxe range, aged at 12, 15,
parlour at the back of Berry Brothers’ 18, and 25 years.
shop in fashionable St James Street, Cutty Sark 40% ABV • Golden,
London. Presumably, it was a jolly lunch, clear, and bright, Cutty Sark
as for many years the label carried the is notably pale. The aroma is
idiosyncratic descriptor “Scots Whisky”, light and fragrant with hints
though sadly this has reverted to the of vanilla and oak. The taste
standard “Scotch” in recent years. is of medium intensity, with
a sweet, creamy, vanilla note
Cutty Sark’s original “Scots” whisky label evident. Cutty Sark has a
crisp and clean finish.
Blended whiskies are about
mass appeal, and for big
players like J&B, that means
finding ever new ways to
promote the brand.
130 whiskey nations
blue blazer
Often made with bourbon,
but perfectly at home with
good Scotch, the Blue Blazer
was created by Jerry Thomas,
a San Francisco bartender.
Watching Thomas making
the drink, President Ulysses
S. Grant was reportedly so
impressed that he presented
him with a cigar. Thomas’s
bartending skills are an
acquired art, so you may
want to practice making the
drink in the backyard first.
Ingredients
1 measure (25 ml) blended
Scotch whisky
1 measure (25 ml)
boiling water
1 tsp powdered sugar
lemon peel
Method
Use two large metal mugs
with handles. Warm the
whisky and put it in one
mug. Put the water in the
other. Set the whisky alight
and, as it burns, combine
with the water, pouring the
mixture from one mug to
This Dewar’s advertising poster are also used. Given the the other. Your audience
of 1935 allies its whisky with the history of the company and (and you should have one)
silver jubilee of King George V. the brand (see opposite), it is should see a stream of
reasonable to assume that liquid fire. Sweeten and
a contribution from the serve in a stemmed glass
Dewar’s Diageo stable of malts is also with a piece of lemon peel.
Owner: John Dewar & Sons (Bacardi)
still present in the blend.
Dewar’s is seldom seen in
Following Bacardi’s purchase the UK, but is a dominant
of Dewar’s in 1988, the presence in the US. It is also Dewar’s future seems
brand was repackaged, with important in some quite secure under the
considerable investment being European markets and ownership of Bacardi,
made throughout the business, of growing significance who, in August 2007,
from the distilling process to in Asia. announced a further
the warehousing and bottling. Bacardi has increased $240 million investment
To augment the standard global distribution for in their Scottish
White Label, new products Dewar’s, greatly production facilities.
were developed. The first expanded the A state-of-the-art
of these was a 12-year-old marketing budget, visitor center, which
version, Special Reserve. and raised the celebrates the life of
Then came the 18-year-old brand’s profile the Dewar family
Founder’s Reserve, and while maintaining and the firm’s long
finally an ultra-premium non- the quality standards. history of whisky
age style known as Signature. In fact, some would making, was opened
The main single malt in the say the blend quality at Aberfeldy (see p77),
Dewar’s blends is Aberfeldy, has been enhanced, one of the four
though the group’s other especially in the new distilleries acquired
malts—Aultmore, Royal products, which have by Bacardi when they
Brackla, Craigellachie, and, won many awards Dewar’s bought the Dewar’s
to a lesser extent, MacDuff— and medals. 12-Year-Old brand nine years ago.
dewar’s—pioneers of blending
The firm of Dewar’s was established in Perth in 1846 by John Dewar.
Like so many other founders of a great whisky dynasty, he was working
as a wine and spirit merchant when he decided to start out on his own.
He then proceeded to develop the business in slow and careful steps.
John Dewar was experimenting with 1890s, thus turning themselves from
blending in the early 1860s, making him whisky blenders into distillers.
something of a pioneer. The whisky he The flagship White Label blend
produced was sold in stoneware was launched around 1899,
crocks known as “pigs,” and after experiments by
later he was among the first Dewar’s master blender,
distillers to sell branded Alexander Cameron, to
whisky by the bottle perfect the practice of
instead of by the cask. marrying, which was still
By the time of his death in use for premium whisky
in 1880, his business had blends. Dewar’s was also an
really taken off. His sons, Dewar’s plate
early proponent of the
John and Thomas, rode the benefits of ageing whisky.
Victorian whisky boom with conspicuous By the 1920s, however, the whisky
success. John was a shrewd businessman, boom had passed and Dewar’s entered
while Tommy, a born salesman, was into a merger, first with Buchanan’s
responsible for the world’s first whisky and subsequently with the Distillers
commercial in 1896, when he projected Company (DCL). The business was
a film on to a New York skyscraper. managed as a separate concern until
Together, the brothers transformed rationalization in the 1980s, after which
the firm from a local concern into a it was reduced to the status of just one
global business, hiring the renowned brand among many. With the formation
Elgin-based architect Charles Doig (see of Diageo in 1998, regulatory concerns
p59) to build Aberfeldy Distillery in the forced the sale of Dewar’s to Bacardi.
Dewar’s was a prosperous
independent company,
enjoying great success
right up until the 1920s.
132 whiskey nations
and the creation of global

game bird drinks companies with
Created for The Famous
wide‑ranging portfolios,
Grouse, this is a refreshing
The Famous Grouse comes
summer cocktail.
from an independent
Scottish company that
Ingredients
focuses exclusively on one
2 measures (50 ml) of
product: Scotch whisky.
The Famous Grouse
The Edrington Group,
1 measure (25 ml) of
owners of Highland
Sourz apple schnapps
Distillers (proprietors of
½ measure (about 10 ml)
Famous Grouse), also owns
of elderflower cordial
some of the finest malt
distilleries, such as Macallan,
of freshly squeezed
Highland Park, and the less
lemon juice
well-known but no less
excellent Glenrothes. They
of sugar syrup
are also co-owners of
Ginger ale to taste
the North British grain
distillery in Edinburgh.
Method
It is the high proportion
Shake all the ingredients
of these excellent whiskies The stills at Glenturret Distillery
apart from the ginger ale
contained in the blend to produce one of the key malts for
with ice. Strain into a flute
which The Famous Grouse the Famous Grouse blend.
glass. Top up with ginger ale.

owes its reputation among
connoisseurs. Today, there addition of some more
are a number of variations strongly flavored Islay malt
Dewar’s House Style to explore, mainly a selection whiskies to create a smooth,
The signature note in all of aged blended malts blended whisky with a peated
Dewar’s blends is a heather- available as 10, 12, 15, 18, note. This is said to be an
honey sweetness derived from 21, and 30-year-old addition to the core range,
the Aberfeldy single malt. expressions, depending the implication being that if
Dewar’s has always been on the individual market. The Black Grouse is
renowned for the smoothness The standard blend, The successful, it will be seen
of its blends, which are easy Famous Grouse Finest much more widely. In
to drink without being bland. Scotch Whisky, is the 2002, The Famous Grouse
Older versions and the ultra- dominant seller. In its Experience was opened
premium, non-aged blend, production, the company at the company’s tiny
Signature, are especially attaches a great deal of Glenturret Distillery (see
highly regarded for their significance to the p88) near Crieff. This
complexity and finesse. marrying process, highly interactive
whereby, after visitor center also
blending, the whisky has a restaurant and
Dimple is reduced to around a large shop.
See Haig 45 percent ABV and The Famous Grouse
returned to the cask finest scotch whisky
to allow the malt, 40% ABV • Highly
The Famous Grouse grain, and water regarded as a fine
Owner: Edrington Group
interactions to example of a standard
reach an equilibrium. blend that punches
The Famous Grouse has been This creates a above its weight. With
the number one whisky in consistent product, a healthy measure of
Scotland since 1980 and is which is then The Macallan and
also the best-selling Scotch in filtered at a very The Famous Highland Park,
Sweden, Denmark, Iceland, gentle temperature Grouse Finest there is oak and
and Mozambique. It is the of 40ºF (4ºC), Scotch Whisky sherry on the nose,
fastest-growing Scotch whisky using a wide filter, to with a citrus note.
in the Greek market, where retain as much as possible Nothing dominates or
it outsells ouzo, while the of the original flavor and offends, and this is a well-
US, France, Portugal, and texture of the whisky. balanced and appealing
worldwide duty-free sales Early in 2007, the company whisky. On the palate, it is
are also important markets. launched The Black Grouse mature, easy-going, and full
Remarkably, in an industry in Sweden—a blend of The of bright Speyside fruit, with
characterized by consolidation Famous Grouse with the a clean, medium-dry finish.
scotland’s favorite blended whisky

“Goback, goback, goback,” the distinctive call of the red grouse
is heard across much of upland Britain, but the bird is particularly
associated with Scotland and the sporting traditions of its great
Victorian estates, where gun smoke filled the cold morning air.
Like so many other celebrated names Grouse increased its visibility, becoming
in whisky, The Famous Grouse has its first the best-selling blend in
roots in a Victorian grocer’s shop—in Scotland and then an
Perth in this case, where Matthew increasingly important brand
Gloag set up in business. His in world markets. A much-
nephew, also called Matthew, loved advertising campaign
shrewdly recognized the featuring an animated grouse
opportunities for a local began in 1996 and continues
product to supply to to prove popular.
the growing numbers While clever marketing has
of upper-class gentlemen played its part, the company’s
A red grouse has adorned
being lured to the the label of The Famous strict adherence to the
Highlands by the choice Grouse since 1896. highest standards of quality
of sporting activities has also been key to building
available there. In 1896 he decided Grouse’s reputation. The company
upon “The Grouse Brand,” and set asserts that they perform a remarkable
his daughter the task of sketching 8,735 quality checks from distillation
the label. Before long, it was known to bottling. If that seems excessive,
as “The Famous Grouse.” the result can be easily ascertained.
By 1970, sales had developed, but Today, with sales approaching three
death duties obliged the Gloags to sell million cases annually, The Famous
the company to Highland Distillers. Grouse is firmly established in the
Over the next 20 years, sales were well top 10 of global brands and seems
ahead of the market, and The Famous set for further growth.
Glenturret Distillery is the spiritual home of
The Famous Grouse, not only supplying malt for
the blend but also housing its visitor center.
134 whiskey nations
company as “more mature,

Grand fruity, and malty” than its
MacNish younger sibling.
Owner: Macduff
The distinctive bottle gives
International Grand Macnish splendid
“on shelf ” presence, and the
Recommended label is graced by the motto
by Ernest of the McNish clan: “Forti
Hemingway, a Nihil Difficile” (to the strong,
man who knew nothing is difficult).
his drinks, the
Grand Macnish
has a long and Grant’s
distinguished Owner: William Grant & Sons
history. Robert
McNish (an “a” William Grant & Sons are
was added to the famously family owned and
brand name at resolutely independent. As
some point later such, is not too surprising
on) was a licensed to discover that the base for
grocer in Glasgow their range of blended
who took up whiskies is their own
“When you are cold and wet, what whisky blending in 1863. His Glenfiddich single malt,
else can warm you?” wrote Ernest early success was built upon together with The Balvenie,
Hemingway about whisky. Grand by his two energetic sons, and the little-known Kininvie,
Macnish was his favorite. John and George, who the third distillery on their
joined the family firm in 1887 sprawling Speyside complex.
and greatly expanded the What may not be so widely
Findlater business’s turnover. appreciated is that
Like many other firms, Grant’s also produce
however, the McNishes their own grain whisky,
The firm of Findlater found trading conditions and have done since
Mackie Todd & Co. began very difficult after World 1963, when a difference
with Alexander Findlater, War I, and in 1927 they of opinion with the
who set up business in 1823 sold the company to Distillers Company
to bring Findlater’s whiskies Canadian Industrial led Charles Gordon,
to the world. Things Alcohol (later Corby great-grandson of the
unwound in the 1960s, and Distilleries). Further founder, to believe that
the firm was bought by transfers of ownership supplies of grain
Bulmers in 1966. It was later eventually brought whisky might be
sold to Beechams, who tried Grand Macnish to vulnerable.
to use it to launch a whisky Macduff International Determined not to
brand using the Findlater in 1991, where it be held to ransom,
name. Beechams sold out appears to be having he resolved to build
to a management buy-out a modest revival. a grain distillery of his
team, who in turn were There are two own at Girvan, close to
bought by John Lewis in blended expressions: Grant’s the championship golf
1993, since when the firm has Grand Macnish Finest, Ale Cask course at Turnberry.
been the mail-order arm of which still uses up to 40 Reserve Historically, this was
Waitrose’s Wine Department. whiskies in the blend, not a major center for
Rights to the Findlater as was the practice of Robert distilling. Gordon chose the
whisky brand, however, were McNish; and a 12-year-old, site for the ease of access it
sold to Invergordon Distillers which is described by the afforded to the nearby port,
(today Whyte & Mackay),
with whom they still rest.
Boisset America import the
brand into the US, which
appears to be the remaining
significant market for this
long-serving whisky.
Invergordon Distillery acquired

the rights to the Findlater name,
and supply whisky for its blend.
so that shipments of North

American corn could be The growth of Grant’s
easily and reliably delivered.
The history of Grant’s goes back to 1866, when William Grant
Ironically, such has been
became a bookkeeper at Mortlach, the local distillery. He
the success of the Grant’s
blends that a new distillery is showed great talent for the whisky production process and
currently under construction soon became the manager there.
at Girvan, to provide Twenty years later, William and his family created the iconic
additional malt whisky. Glenfiddich Distillery, which is still the heart of the company.
David Stewart, master They undertook much of the building work themselves, and
blender at William Grant the first spirit ran from the stills on Christmas Day 1887.
& Sons since 1974, is the In 1979, Grant’s sold more than one million cases of whisky
longest-serving master blender in the UK, firmly establishing themselves as one of the nation’s
in the Scotch whisky favorite brands. Since then they have continued to grow at an
industry. He has created exceptional rate, keeping up with demand from the world’s
a varied and interesting Scotch whisky drinkers. Grant’s now sell around four million
range of whiskies. The cases of whisky a year and are one of the world’s top five
fact that the company is Scotch whisky brands, enjoyed in over 180 countries.
privately owned, and
thus not subject to
pressures from the malty notes. Clean, Grant’s Premium 12-year-old
City, has enabled him but very complex. 40% ABV • Only the finest single
to work with a A long, smooth malt and grain whiskies,
remarkable depth of lingering finish. which have matured for at
mature stock, some The Grant’s Premium least 12 years in oak casks,
dating back 40 or Range 40% ABV • A are used. They are blended
more years. unique combination and finished in bourbon
The best-selling of aged premium barrels. This ensures a warm
blend in the stable whiskies and and full-bodied Scotch
is Grant’s Family distinctive wood whisky of great richness.
Reserve, which Grant’s Rare Old finishes. It is said Grant’s Rare Old 18-year-old
enjoys virtually 18-Year-Old to be the first range 40% ABV • In 2001, Grant’s
global distribution. of blended whisky Cask Reserves were created.
Grant’s Family Reserve 40% ABV to be finished in specially Before bottling, these
An unmistakable Speyside selected virgin bourbon barrels whiskies are “finished” in
nose, with fluting malty and sherry and port casks. either ale or sherry casks,
notes. It has a firm mouth This time spent in the wood where the aged spirit absorbs
feel, with banana-vanilla finishes acts exactly like a some of the key notes and
sweetness balancing sharper, marrying period. flavors of the barrels. In the
Rare Old 18-Year-Old, some
of the whisky is finished in
port casks, and the end result
is an appealing Scotch,
perfectly balanced, with
considerable depth of taste.
Grant’s Ale Cask Reserve
40% ABV • This is the only
Scotch whisky to be finished
in casks that have previously
been used to contain beer.
The ale casks give the whisky
a distinctively creamy, malty,
and honeyed taste.
Grant’s Sherry Cask Reserve
40% ABV • Prepared in exactly
the same way as the ale cask
finish, but Spanish oloroso
sherry casks are used instead,
giving a distinctively warm,
rich, and fruity palate.
Grant’s pays a great deal of

attention to casks, for marrying
blends and giving special finishes.
136 whiskey nations
deluxe brand was introduced at No. 10 Downing Street

by G O Haig and was noted as a favorite drink of the
for the hand-applied wire net UK prime minister
over the bottle, introduced to Sir Winston Churchill.
keep the cork from popping Now owned by Inver House
out in warm climates or Distillers (a Thai Beverage
during sea transport. Company business), Hankey
The unique three-sided Bannister is exported to over
pinched decanter was the 40 countries worldwide. It
first three-sided bottle to be has a presence in all major
registered as a trademark in European markets and in
the US, though it took the other key markets, too,
company until 1958 to make including Australia, Latin
the application. America, and South Africa.
There are three variants: a Hankey Bannister also
Haig dominated the UK market for 12-Year-Old, a 15-Year-Old, now performs well in the
decades through a combination and an 18-Year-Old. worldwide duty-free sector.
of distinctive packaging and There are three
strong advertising campaigns. expressions:
Hankey the standard
Bannister carries no age
Haig declaration,
Owner: Inver
Owner: Diageo House Distillers but there are
two aged
A whisky of distinguished The unusually versions—a
pedigree owned by Diageo, named Hankey 12-Year-Old
Haig is a memory of the Bannister takes and a 21-Year-
oldest distilling family in its name from a Old. The style is
Scotland and the winner of partnership formed Haig’s best described as
numerous awards throughout in 1757 by Messrs Glenleven light and subtle. A
the years. In its glory days, Hankey and Bannister, clean, sweet, slightly
Haig was the best-selling who became established as spicy whisky, giving a full
whisky in the UK, but is now suppliers of some of the flavor with honeyed tones
mainly found in Greece, finest wines and spirits in and a pleasant, lasting finish.
Germany, the Canary Islands, the UK. Their customers
Korea, the United States, included royalty such as the
and Mexico. Prince Regent, William IV, Highland Queen
The Haig company can the Duke of Norfolk, and Owner: Glenmorangie
trace its history back to one the Duke of Queensberry.
John Haig, who is believed In the 1940s and 50s, Originally created by the
to have started distilling the Hankey Bannister also Leith blenders MacDonald
produce of his farm at Throsk, enjoyed a privileged position & Muir in 1893 and named
in Stirlingshire, in 1627. His in homage to Mary Queen
descendants married into the of Scots, Highland Queen
Stein family, notable distillers Blended Scotch Whisky
in their own right, and later honors Leith’s connection
built a grain distillery at with the ill-fated monarch,
Cameronbridge, in Fife. who arrived here from
Eventually, in 1877, they France in August 1561,
were one of the founders of aged 18, to take the crown
the Distillers Company, but of Scotland. The brand’s
continued their own logo includes a vignette of
independent blending Mary on a white stallion.
operations until 1919. Produced today by The
The company’s best known Glenmorangie Company,
brand, Dimple (or Pinch in this standard blend’s key
the US), was launched in markets are Australia,
1890. The blend consists Venezuela, India, Africa,
of more than 30 whiskies, the Middle East, and Japan.
including a number of Highland Queen 40% ABV
rare whiskies from Diageo’s Heather-honey, plum, and
treasured reserves of the most apple notes provide a fresh,
matured Highland malts. clean taste. The blend has a
The distinctive bottle for this Hankey Bannister gentle, warming finish.
priced non-aged version, Current expressions of J&B

and as 12 and 21-year-old include J&B Rare, Jet (the
expressions as well. leading brand in South
Korean bars), and the
15-year-old Reserve, which
J&B is only sold in Spain and
Owner: Diageo
Portugal. A blend aimed
at the younger market
Along with Johnnie called J&B -6ºC, which
Walker, the J&B brand seeks to make a virtue
gives Diageo the of its chill-filtering, was
enviable responsibility recently withdrawn.
of owning the two J&B Rare 40% ABV
best-selling blended A highly distinctive
Scotch whiskies in blend, using some
the world (third- 42 individual malt
placed Ballantine’s is and grain Scotch
number two in terms whiskies. Top-class
of value, however). Speyside single malts
Whiskies from more than 20 J&B Rare is the such as Knockando,
distilleries are selected to make number one Scotch Glen Spey, and
Inver House Green Plaid. whisky in Europe, Auchroisk are at the
with its major markets heart of J&B, but
being Spain, France, the delicate smokiness
Inver House Portugal, and Turkey. suggests an Islay
Green Plaid Important markets influence. An apple
Owner: Inver House Distillers
outside Europe J&B Jet and pear fruitiness,
include South Africa with vanilla notes and
With its tartan-clad label, and the United States. In all a honeyed sweetness, is set
Inver House’s Green Plaid of these combined, around off by a background
has long been a familiar sight two bottles of J&B are sold of restrained peat.
on American shelves and every second.
bars. The brand was first The original owners of the justerini & Brooks
launched in the United company started by buying
States in 1956, since when up stocks of old whisky in In 1749 Giacomo Justerini
it has enjoyed consistent Scotland in the mid and travelled from his native
success, remaining late 1800s, but it was not Italy to London in pursuit of
among the top 10 sellers until the 1930s that they an opera singer with whom
in this important market. developed J&B Rare. Its he’d fallen in love. His
It is also sold in Europe light color was designed journey was unsuccessful
and Latin America. specifically with the romantically, but Giacomo,
Green plaid itself United States in mind, who was from a family of
is even more ancient where it flourished liqueur distillers, stayed on
than the distilling of after the end of in London and paired up
Scotch whisky. Plaid Prohibition. For the with George Johnson to
is the traditional next 40 years, success form Justerini and Johnson
Scottish heavy woollen continued unabated, Wine Merchants. In 1779
tartan material used with sales reaching they placed the earliest
to make kilts. It is three million cases a recorded advert for Scotch
thought that a green year during the 1970s. whisky in the London
plaid was worn by Ownership passed Morning Post.
the first Lord of the by way of United Giacomo later returned
Isles, a 12th-century Wine Traders to to Italy and George
Viking warrior by the IDV, then to Grand Johnson was killed by a
name of Somerled. Inver House Metropolitan, runaway horse. The firm
The Lord of the Green Plaid United Distillers, passed through Johnson’s
Isles tartan pattern is and ultimately to family until 1831, when
incorporated into the label today’s largest whisky Alfred Brooks, an
of the whisky bottle that corporation, Diageo. Like entrepreneur who had
carries its name. so many brands, the family spotted the potential of
Inver House uses more connections have long since blended whisky, bought
than 20 malts and grains to been severed, but the distant the business and renamed
blend Green Plaid, which is memory of their now-faded it Justerini & Brooks.
available as a competitively drinks dynasty still lingers on.
138 whiskey nations
the best-selling scotch whisky in the world

The firm of John Walker & Sons can be traced back to a Kilmarnock
grocery store in 1820, but it did not enter the whisky industry in a
serious way until the 1860s. Indeed, it was not John Walker but his
son and grandson who developed the whisky business.
With the legalization of junior, in 1889. In 1893 the

blending “under bond” in the brothers acquired Cardhu
1860s, John Walker’s son and Distillery on Speyside.
grandson, both named Now, they were distillers—
Alexander, progressively a proud distinction—and
launched and developed immediately proclaimed
their range of whiskies. their confidence in
These were based around “the precise nature and
the original Walker’s Old quality of the principal
Highland blend, which components of their blend.”
was launched in 1865 and is Alexander Walker, In 1908 their whiskies
the ancestor of today’s Black the elder were first branded Johnnie
Label. The distinctive square Walker, as opposed to
bottle followed in 1870. Kilmarnock Whisky. But, by 1925,
Trade developed phenomenally in the pressure of difficult trading forced
the late 19th century, for the Walkers a consolidation of the industry. Like
and their rivals. The British Empire many others, Johnnie Walker joined
was expanding, Scotland was growing the Distillers Company, though the
ever more fashionable, and Scotch dynamic Sir Alexander Walker
whisky was displacing cognac as the remained at the head of the firm.
preferred drink of the smart set. By 1945 Johnnie Walker Red Label
Alexander passed on the business to was the world’s best-selling Scotch
his two sons, George and Alexander whisky, a status it retains to this day.
Under Diageo, the brand has continued
Johnnie Walker has always promoted its
brand prominently, as seen here on an to grow and prosper, with a number
office building in Bucharest, Romania. of new variants being introduced.
and a high-profile backer of

Johnnie Walker the Team McLaren Mercedes
Owner: Diageo
Formula One racing team.
As the world’s biggest
The Johnnie Walker brand producer of Scotch whisky,
offers a range of whiskies Diageo has the largest number
from Diageo’s ample larder, of distilleries and access to
and comprise Johnnie unrivalled stocks. In fact, the
Walker Red, Black, Gold, firm claims that at any point
and Blue, as well as the in time Johnnie Walker has
Johnnie Walker Green at their disposal more than
Label, which is a blended seven million casks of whisky
malt. From time to time, the in maturation—and that is
firm also releases a number worth more than all the gold
of one-off, limited, or in the vaults of the Bank
regional expressions, of England. A bottle of Johnny Walker 1805,
including Swing, Quest, Johnnie Walker Black an incredibly rare whisky, was
Honour, Excelsior, Old Label 40% ABV • The auctioned at Bonham’s in 2007.
Harmony, Cask flagship Johnnie Walker
Strength, and 1805. blend, recognizable “up‑front” in taste. Direct,
Swing was devised by its smoky kick, fresh, and fruity, with smoky
while Sir Alexander is acknowledged as a and chilli spice notes.
Walker (junior) classic blended whisky. Johnnie Walker gold Label
was in charge of With a base of 40% ABV • In an older style
the company, and Cameron Brig grain such as Gold, look for honey,
was created for the whisky, it uses single fresh fruits, and toffee notes,
affluent passengers malts that include with smoke very much in
on the great Atlantic Glendullan, Mortlach, the background. Perhaps
liners of the 1930s. and Talisker, from controversially, Diageo
It remains popular Skye. The hint of recommends chilling this
in the Asian markets. smoke, contributed by in the freezer before serving,
Johnnie Walker Talisker and Diageo’s maintaining that the flavors
Red Label is the Islay malts (Caol Ila are intensified in this way.
most successful and Lagavulin), Johnnie Walker blue Label
brand of Scotch Johnnie Walker distinguishes the 40% ABV • Unusually, the
whisky in the world, Black Label Walker blends and super-premium Blue does
and the total sales runs through all not carry an age statement.
of all Johnnie Walker the expressions, though less This blend was created in
expressions amount to close noticeably so in the smoother tribute to the style of 19th-
on 12 million cases annually, Gold and Blue styles. century blenders and so uses
far outstripping their nearest Johnnie Walker red Label a relatively tight group of
Scotch rival, Ballantine’s. 40% ABV • Served as the basis grain and malt whiskies,
Both have enjoyed significant of a mixed drink in many some of great age and rarity.
growth in developing markets markets, Red is more The whisky is remarkably
in China, Asia, and Russia. smooth and mellow, with
Johnnie Walker has long traces of spice, honey, and
been characterized by its the signature hint of smoke.
strong packaging and brand These older styles are more
identity, symbolized by the complex and layered than
character of the striding Red, but a clear family
man. Another factor in its resemblance can be detected
early success was the square throughout the range.
bottle, which enabled the Johnnie Walker 1805 40% ABV
firm to pack more bottles in Available in a very few
a given volume and thus selected bars at $2,000 a
reduce the transport costs. glass, the 200-bottle ultra-
The company has always limited 1805 edition used
used distinctive advertising whisky from a number of
and kept a high promotional closed distilleries and cannot
profile. Currently, it is a major be repeated. It is a subtle,
golf sponsor (supporting the rich, and spicy blend, with
Johnnie Walker Classic Johnny Walker created this an exceptionally long and
and the Johnnie Walker tasting room to launch their Green consistent finish that lingers
Championship at Gleneagles) Label brand in Taipei. pleasantly on the palate.
140 whiskey nations
French market, recording

Johnnie Walker sales of well over one million
Blue Label— cases annually in the
King George V Edition “secondary” (that is,
Owner: Diageo
low price) market.
There are three
As the ultimate Johnnie expressions: a standard,
Walker expression, the King un‑aged version; a 12-year-
George V Edition deserves old and an 18-year-old.
its own entry. An exemplary
demonstration of the
blender’s art, King George V Langs
is handcrafted using the Owner: Ian MacLeod
original techniques practiced
during the 1930s, arguably a Alexander and Gavin Lang
golden age for whisky. Only The Queen Mother was able to were whisky merchants and
whiskies from distilleries grant a Royal Warrant to Langs blenders in Glasgow from
operating during the reign of whisky in the 1980s. 1861. In 1876 they bought
George V (many of which the attractive little distillery
are now closed) have been The blend, which retails at of Glengoyne (see p84),
selected, and oak casks around three times the price which has remained a
dating back to the 19th of its super-premium brother principal component in the
century have been used to Johnnie Walker Blue Label, Langs blends ever since.
age these precious whiskies. is described as having In 1965, the firm was
When these whiskies run “a rich, profound smoky purchased by the Glasgow
out, it will not be possible taste, followed quickly by blenders Robertson &
ever again to achieve the sweet fresh fruit flavors Baxter, who attempted to
taste of Johnnie Walker King developing into deep fruit, develop the brands, with
George V Edition, and the spicy complexity, and a long, some success, in the UK,
blend will cease to exist. mouth-warming, and Europe, and the Far East,
As such, it has been released lingering peaty finish.” acquiring in 1984 a Royal
only in Asian markets, where Warrant from the Queen
gift-giving and display have Mother in the process.
greater importance than Label 5 However, Robertson
in the West. Owner: Jean-Pierre Cayard
& Baxter’s interests in
Owners Diageo plan that The Famous Grouse and
the edition will be available The French blender and Cutty Sark took precedence,
until around 2016, but this bottler La Martiniquaise was and the Langs brand and
is obviously dependent on founded in 1934 by Jean- Glengoyne Distillery were
the volume of sales. Only Pierre Cayard and moved its sold to Ian MacLeod in 2003.
between three and five production facilities from Today, the principal Langs
outlets in any one country France to Scotland in 2004. products are Langs Supreme
have been allocated stock. Label 5 is a big seller in the and Langs Select 12-Year-
Whisky Galore!
Martin’s was one of the
brands of whisky on board
the S.S. Politician, which was
lost off the coast of Eriskay
in February 1941. The event
formed the inspiration for
Compton Mackenzie’s novel
Whisky Galore, in which a
group of islanders spirit away
the cases of whisky that
wash up on the shore. The
novel went on to inspire a
1949 film of the same name.
Whisky Galore was adapted

into a British film with enduring
appeal by Ealing Studios.
Old blended whiskies,

both noted for their Loch Fyne flying scotsman
relatively high malt Owner: Richard Joynson Named after the famous
content. The Select pre-war London North
12-Year-Old recently The label depicts the Eastern Railway train which
won a Gold Medal in Glendarroch Distillery ran non-stop between
Scottish Field magazine’s sited on the Crinan London and Edinburgh,
Whisky Merchants Canal, which links offering the luxurious
Challenge in the Loch Fyne with the standards of a cruise liner.
Deluxe Blended Sound of Jura. Also
Scotch category. known as Glenfyne, Ingredients:
the distillery was built 1 measure (25 ml) of
in 1831 but, sadly, no blended Scotch Whisky
Lauder’s trace remains. 1 measure (25 ml) of
Owner: MacDuff
The name has been sweet vermouth
International continued by Richard Dash of Angostura bitters
Joynson, proprietor of Sugar syrup to taste
A famous Glasgow Inverary’s award-
landmark, Lauder’s Loch Fyne winning Loch Fyne Method:
Bar on Sauchiehall Whiskies and well- Mix all the ingredients over
Street dates from 1836. known piscatorial enthusiast, ice. Stir and strain into a
It is named after Archibald for his own-label whisky. chilled glass.
Lauder, who took the licence The blend was created by
in 1871 when it was the Professor Ronnie Martin,
Royal Lochnagar Vaults. OBE, former production
Lauder produced a blended director with United Distillers
whisky, Lauder’s Royal (now Diageo). It is described
Northern Cream, which as slightly sweet and smoky—
was exported worldwide. an easy-drinking, well
Today his name is recalled flavored blend, but one
not only in the eponymous to simply drink and enjoy
public house but also in rather than concentrate on.
Lauder’s Scotch whisky,
which, it is claimed, is one
of the oldest brands of Long John
whisky still being made. Owner: Chivas Brothers
With perhaps just a touch Tormore on Speyside is the
of whimsy, the proprietors, With annual sales in excess brand distillery for Long John and
MacDuff International, of 500,000 cases, Long John provides the whisky’s key filling.
trace production back to remains a significant brand,
1834, and propose that yet one that is apparently very much in the shadow
Lauder himself was an of its Chivas Brothers’
early exponent of market stablemates, Chivas Regal
research. Supposedly, and Ballantine’s (all of which
development of the original ultimately come under the
blend took two years, during Pernod Ricard umbrella).
which time Lauder “invited Named in honor of
many good friends of cheer Long John MacDonald
to taste and remark upon of the original Fort William
each concoction”—a Distillery, Long John was for
formula long established many years owned by the
as finding favor with founder’s family. However, it
Glasgow drinkers. eventually passed to a London
Certainly Lauder’s was wine and spirit merchant
a popular whisky and a and thus to Long John
prolific medal winner in International, the distilling
the 19th century, since when arm of brewers Whitbread.
it has largely slipped from Such is the way of these
public view in its homeland. matters, however, that the
However, it is imported by brief reunion of brand and
Barton Brands into the US, distillery under Whitbread
where it continues to be Long John is a competitively was short-lived, the distillery
bought by value-conscious priced blend, but the brand is not passing in 1989 to its present
consumers to this day. marketed heavily by its owners. owners Nikka of Japan and
142 whiskey nations
Pattisons
It may seem somewhat academic to include whiskies that have not
been available for more than 100 years, but the influence of the
firm of Pattisons of Leith was to shape the whole structure and
development of the Scotch whisky industry as we know it today.
By 1890, the “whisky over-valued their stock and

barons” of Victorian inflated their profits, often
Scotland had never had it by selling the same whisky
so good, and two brothers (on paper) several times over.
stood above all. Robert and Moreover, they had also
Walter Pattison inherited been adulterating their
partnerships in a small whisky, mixing cheap grain
whisky blending business in spirit with a dash of malt
Leith. In 1896 they floated and passing it off as good
it as a company. Just as in Pattisons’ marketing malt. Following a well-
our own dotcom boom, the reflected the firm’s
dynamic approach.
publicized trial, the brothers
share offer was six times were jailed, Robert for
oversubscribed and the directors 18 months, Walter for nine.
abilities seemed mercurial. It wasn’t only Pattisons and their
“The Doctor,” “Morning Gallop,” creditors who suffered. Ten other firms
and “Morning Dew” brands were were brought down in the collapse that
blends, but Pattisons also owned a followed. The reputation of blending,
distillery at Aultmore, a share in indeed of the whisky trade in general,
Glenfarclas, and office and blending was hard hit, and its recovery did not
premises in Leith and London. even begin for another 10 years.
One of their promotional
schemes was a stroke of
genius: Pattisons gave 500
African Gray parrots to
publicans and licensed
grocers, only for their
proud owners to discover
that they’d been trained
to squawk, “Pattisons
Whisky is best!” and
“Buy Pattisons Whisky!”
at customers!
When in 1898 the
company went bankrupt,
the collapse was initially
greeted with incredulity.
Slowly, the truth emerged:
Pattisons had massively
Pattisons’ downfall was

described as the “the most
discreditable chapter in the
history of the whisky trade.”
Parr’s recipe for a long

The rise of DCL Martin’s life was a simple one:
While Pattisons charged Owner: Glenmorangie
“Keep your head cool by
toward their ignominious temperance and your feet
end (see opposite), The Martin’s blends are warm by exercise. Rise early,
others benefitted from today owned by go soon to bed, and if
their collapse, most Glenmorangie but you want to grow fat
conspicuously DCL (the derived from the old [prosperous] keep your
Distillers Company Ltd.). James Martin & Co. eyes open and your
Their financial prudence in business, originally mouth shut.”
the late Victorian boom years established in He did, however,
stood them in good stead as Leith in 1878. drink ale and
trade tightened. They were That firm even cider on
able to purchase a number formed part special occasions,
of Pattisons’ assets at of MacDonald so we may
knock-down prices and Martin Distillers. presume that
steadily came to assume a In its heyday, he would not
pre-eminent position in the Martin’s VVO have been upset
Scottish whisky industry. was a very when, in 1871,
significant brand Samuel and
in the US and is James Greenlees
the brand going to Allied still prominent appropriated
Distillers. Allied Distillers was here today, Martin’s his name for their
subsequently purchased by especially in eastern 20-Year-Old deluxe whisky.
Pernod Ricard, whose spirits states. The initials After several
subsidiary Chivas Brothers stand for “Very Very Old” changes of ownership,
control the brand today. but this is stretching the the Old Parr brand was
The Scottish Whisky point—in its standard acquired by DCL (the
Association’s Directory expression, VVO is no Distillers Company Ltd.)
of Member’s Brands lists more than a 5-year-old in 1925 and is thus now
a non-age version of blend, albeit one with a controlled by Diageo.
Long John and two significant contribution It is distinguished by its
older styles: a 12 and a from Glenmorangie unique bottle design and,
15-year-old. So far as single malt. as a premium blend, sells
can be established, Older 20 and 30- steadily in Japan, Mexico,
the bulk of sales year-old versions sell Colombia and Venezuela.
are to Scandinavian very well in Portugal. There are three Old Parr
and various Spanish- Martin’s VVO is expressions: Grand Old Parr
speaking markets. described as “smooth (12-year-old), Old Parr
and sweet, with notes (15‑year-old), and Old Parr
of orange peel and Superior (18-year-old). By
MacArthur’s vanilla, followed tradition, Cragganmore is
Owner: Inver
by a subtle floral the mainstay of the blend.
House Distillers peatiness.” So the
Glenmorangie
The ancient influence would seem
MacArthur Clan of MacArthur’s to predominate.
Argyllshire fought
alongside Robert the Bruce
in the struggle for Scottish Old Parr
independence. The blend, Owner: Diageo
which can be traced back to
1877, takes its name from this “Old Parr” was Thomas
clan. MacArthur’s enjoyed a Parr, who was born in 1483
brief spell of fame in the and, according to folklore,
1970s, due to its aggressive lived for 152 years. A move
pricing in UK supermarkets, to London to be presented
which led to a price war. to King Charles I proved his
Today it is owned by Inver undoing, and he died in
House Distillers, a subsidiary November 1635. The king
of ThaiBev, and they ordered that he be buried
describe it as having a “light, in Westminster Abbey, “Old Parr,” who is said to have
smooth flavor with toffee and where his tomb may be lived to the age of 152, abstained
vanilla from cask ageing.” seen to this day. from whisky but did drink ale.
The Speyside region provides
some of the most coveted
malts for use in blends.
146 whiskey nations
Despite being unavailable

Queen of Queens in the UK, Passport is one
of Scotch’s success stories,
Once a leading name from the distinguished Edinburgh
with sales climbing
blenders Hill, Thomson & Company, Queen Anne has suffered rapidly toward the elite
the kind of fate that calls to mind Shelley’s sonnet “millionaire’s club” (those
Ozymandias, in which a traveler encounters the with sales of one million or
ruins of a once mighty empire: more cases per annum).
“My name is Ozymandias, king of kings: Passport’s main strongholds
Look on my works, ye Mighty, and despair! are the US, South Korea,
Nothing beside remains. Round the decay Spain and Brazil, where its
Of that colossal wreck, boundless and bare fruity taste lends itself to
The lone and level sands stretch far away.” being served on the rocks.
Like so many once-famous and proud brands, The brand claims that it
consolidation in the Scotch whisky industry has left is “designed to appeal to
Queen Anne bereft and isolated. As its new owners younger, independently
(Chivas Brothers, in turn owned by Pernod Ricard) minded consumers,”
concentrate on the “strategic” components of a attracted by the distinctive
“key brand portfolio,” orphan brands like Queen rectangular green bottle.
Passport’s publicity suggests
Anne become casualties. Clinging on perhaps in
that it is “a unique
one or more regions where once they were loved,
Scotch whisky, inspired
they linger, offering their faint shreds of faded by the revolution of
Queen glory to the student of whisky’s history, while 1960s Britain, with a
Anne awaiting the inevitable coup de grâce. young and vibrant
personality.”
Certainly, no other
Its partner in the Scotch is packaged
Old Smuggler Campari stable, like it today, and the
Owner: Gruppo Campari
Braemar, is bottle is evocative of
distributed the 1960s, when the
Old Smuggler was first throughout Eastern brand was created.
developed by James and Europe, Greece, While it initially
George Stodart in 1835 Turkey, Thailand benefited from
when they launched their and the Caribbean. aggressive pricing,
whisky business, taking a Passport is today
name that acknowledged more of a standard
the superior quality of PASSPORT brand, and its
illicitly distilled whisky prior Owner: Chivas Brothers
drinkers can enjoy
to the 1823 Excise Act (see Passport such distinguished
p47). The Stodart name Although Pernod Scotch and famous malts as
is also recorded in whisky Ricard intended to The Glenlivet and
history as being, reputedly, sell off Passport as soon as others from the Chivas stable
the first to marry their it had acquired the Seagram in the blend.
whisky in sherry butts. whisky brands in 2002, the Passport 40% ABV
Several changes of company evidently had An unusually fruity taste and
ownership later, Old second thoughts and decided a deliciously creamy finish.
Smuggler was acquired by to retain ownership, their
Italy’s Gruppo Campari in ruminations no doubt The Old Smuggler brand still
2006, along with its sister influenced by annual sales enjoys success abroad but is no
blend Braemar and the of some 850,000 cases. longer seen in its homeland.
Glen Grant Distillery (Glen
Grant is the single malt
market leader in Italy).
Today Old Smuggler is
sold in more than 20 markets
worldwide and continues to
enjoy a significant presence
in the US, historically its
principal sales destination.
It is the number two selling
whisky in Argentina, and
developing strong sales in
Eastern Europe.
It can be served straight

or, more usually, over ice
or mixed. Medium-bodied,
with a soft and mellow finish.
Pig’s Nose
Owner: Spencerfield Spirits
This unusually named blend

is the partner to the Sheep
Dip blended malt. The two
brands were the brainchild
of a West Country publican,
M Dowdeswell, who first
introduced Pig’s Nose
whisky in 1977.
For some years the brands
enjoyed reasonable success,
but, having passed through
the hands of several owners,
they ended up with Glasgow-
based Whyte & Mackay and
there languished (presumably
at the back of a stable and very drinkable blend, Pig’s Nose was bought in 2005 by
somewhere), receiving little which more than lives up Spencerfield Spirits, who are very
attention or sales effort. to the claim that “our adept at marketing the brand.
In 2005, a senior Whyte Scotch is as soft and
& Mackay executive, Alex smooth as a pig’s nose.” bodied, but augmented by
Nicol, left the company to a gradual release of richer,
set up his own business, oilier notes and a smooth,
Spencerfield Spirits. He Pinwinnie Royale sweet finish.
acquired both brands and Owner: Inver House Distillers
set about relaunching them.
Pig’s Nose has been In its handsome and Pràban na Linne
reformulated under the distinctive patterned Owner: Pràban Na Linne / The
watchful eye of Whyte & green bottle, Gaelic Whisky Company
Mackay’s master blender Pinwinnie Royale
Richard Paterson, and cuts a dapper The redoubtable
has been repackaged in figure to Sir Iain Noble,
an attractive new livery. accompany the former financier
The result is a full-flavored blend’s unusual and champion of
name, the all things Gaelic,
derivation of which established his
is, alas, obscure. Pràban na
The blend is the Linne business
product of Inver (supposedly Gaelic
House Distillers of for “a smugglers
Airdrie, who are den by the Sound
themselves part of of Sleat”) in 1976.
the Thai Beverage Pinwinnie It was part of a
Public Company Royale project designed to
Limited (ThaiBev). create employment
From this, it would seem in the south of Skye, as so
likely that Inver House’s Old many young people were
Pulteney, Speyburn, anCnoc, then leaving the island.
and Balblair single malts are The business has grown
to be found in the blend. steadily over its 30 years,
The standard expression with its reputation being
is described as “aromatic spread by word of mouth.
and well rounded, with a The company—which is
smooth, dry finish,” whereas also known as the Gaelic
the 12‑year-old version is Whisky Company—markets
Pig’s Nose initially dry and medium- a range of blended whiskies,
148 whiskey nations
with sales concentrated in

Scotland, France, Holland, The Real
Italy, and Canada. Mackenzie
Té Bheag 40% ABV Owner: Diageo
Pronounced “chey vek,” Té
Bheag means “the little lady” Today a Diageo
and is the name of the boat blend, The Real
in the company’s logo. The MacKenzie is
name also means a “wee named after Peter
dram” in colloquial Gaelic. MacKenzie & Co.,
Smooth and slightly peated established in 1897
from its west coast origins, with the vision of
this is a connoisseurs’ whisky, producing high
with a high malt content. quality whisky.
It is aged for between 5 and The “stag head”
11 years, and offers a hint embossment on every Royal Salute 21-Year-Old
of sherry from the casks MacKenzie bottle
in which it has been symbolizes the surprising that no-one
matured. Unusually for MacKenzies’ consistent had previously marketed
a blend, Té Bheag is not loyalty and courage. a brand named after
chill filtered. The original company Scotland’s national bard.
Mac Na Mara 40% ABV owned Blair Athol Isle of Arran Distillers is
Literally meaning “son (quixotically located one of the few remaining
of the sea,” Mac Na in Pitlochry) and independent distilleries in
Mara was introduced Dufftown-Glenlivet Scotland. The company was
in 1992 and quickly distilleries on Speyside. set up in 1995 by Harold
became popular. Then in 1933, the Currie, who was previously
Being competitively whole lot was acquired managing director of Chivas
priced, it is now the by Arthur Bell & Sons (then owned by Seagrams).
company’s biggest (today part of Diageo). The Robert Burns blend
seller, especially in At one time, various contains a significant
the French market. aged expressions were proportion of Isle of Arran
The company popular in Greece single malt, and is claimed
do not make whisky and South Africa, by the company to “capture
themselves, all Pràban but in 2005 Diageo the character of our beautiful
na Linne’s output Robert re-launched the island of clear mountain
being blended for Burns brand with an water and soft sea air.”
them by a well- emphasis on Taiwan,
established whisky broker a rapidly growing market
in Scotland’s Central Belt. for premium blends. Royal Salute
However, the company have Owner: Chivas Brothers
plans to open their own
distillery on Skye. Robert Burns There are a number of
Owner: Isle of Arran Distillers
brands with “Royal” in the
Isle of Arran Distillery is the title, but in a competitive
home of the Robert Burns blend, Given the industry’s deep field, Royal Salute is
and its visitor center (pictured) love affair with traditional undoubtedly ne plus ultra.
stocks a range of Burns whiskies. Scottish imagery, it is perhaps A “royal salute” is, in military
terminology, a 21-gun
tribute to royalty, fired on
a special occasion, such as
the Queen’s birthday.
Royal Salute, which was
arguably the first whisky to
launch in the super premium
sector, was originally
produced in 1953 by the
Seagram Company. It was
a 21‑year-old whisky and its
release was in celebration
of the coronation of Queen
Elizabeth II. Royal Salute is
still the world’s leading super
premium aged Scotch whisky.
Now controlled by Pernod coronation (and Royal Salute The immaculate, modern Isle of
Ricard’s Chivas Brothers, itself). It also celebrated the Arran Distillery provides the heart
the Royal Salute “family” 50th anniversary of the first of the Robert Burns blend.
includes a range of ascent of Mount Everest.
expressions, each one Royal Salute 50-year-old is a whiskies first released on a
comprising a special blend limited edition of just 255 permanent basis in February
of very rare whiskies. bottles and, accordingly, is so 2005.
Royal Salute 21-year-old rare that very few have Royal Salute 38-year-old
40% ABV • Bottled ever tasted it! Stone of Destiny offers rich
and launched on Royal Salute, notes of cedar wood and
Coronation Day in June The Hundred Cask almond, with a sherried
1953, the original Selection 40% ABV oakiness on the palate. Dried
Royal Salute 21-year- This is specially blended fruits linger with an assertive
old was made using from a strict selection spiciness. An experience—
whiskies laid down of 100 casks. First even for the connoisseur!
in the 1920s and introduced to the
30s. Planning for market at the end
the sumptuous of 2004, Royal
Royal Salute 21- Salute, The
year-old can Hundred Cask
begin up to 30 Selection is
years before it is elegant, creamy,
sealed in porcelain and exceptionally
flagons, each one smooth.
of which is Royal Salute, The Royal Salute
embellished by Hundred Cask 38-year-old Stone
craftsmen at the Selection of Destiny 40% ABV
Wade pottery over four days. By tradition, the Stone of
A deep gold color; Destiny is supposed to be the
soft fruity aromas balanced pillow used by Jacob in the
with a delicate floral Bible. It is also the name
fragrance and mellow given to the sandstone block
honeyed sweetness. used in the coronations of
Royal Salute 50-year-old 40% ABV Scottish, and subsequently
A very limited edition, British, monarchs. Chivas
launched in June 2003 used this name for their The coronation of Queen
in honor of the 50th exclusive selection of Elizabeth II in 1953 inspired
anniversary of the Queen’s powerful 38‑year-old the creation of Royal Salute.
150 whiskey nations
Scotch Blue
Owner: Lotte Chilsung
Lotte Chilsung, part of

the Lotte Group leisure
and retail company—
South Korea’s fifth-biggest
conglomerate—owns the
Scotch Blue brand, which
has grown very rapidly from
its launch some 10 years ago.
It now records sales of more
than 500,000 cases, based on
spirit supplied by Burn
Stewart Distillers. This is not
a “value” brand and, indeed,
in 2001 Burn Stewart’s
supply deal was challenged
by Allied Domecq, who saw
Scotch Blue threatening
their Ballantine’s brand and
raised an action for “passing
off ” (copying the blend).
This failed to dent the
brand’s progress and in
June 2007 The Korea Times
reported that “Scotch Blue The stills at Deanston provide
is no longer limited to the Scottish Leader the “honeyed” malt at the heart
domestic boundaries, but is of the Scottish Leader blend.
Owner: Burn Stewart Distillers
being exported to Malaysia,
Japan, Thailand, and other This is the flagship blend honey notes in the Perthshire
Asian countries where its of Glasgow-based Burn style. The peat smoke
popularity is growing.” Stewart Distillers, which returns in the finish.
The line includes Scotch in turn is part of CL World
Blue (with non-age, 17, and Brands, an offshoot of CL
21-year-old variations), Scotch Financial of Trindad — Sir Edward’s
Blue International, and New thus are the tentacles of Owner: Bardinet
Scotch Blue Special. the global drinks industry
spread far and wide. A competitively priced
Rabbie Burns The blend’s heart is single “secondary” (low price)
malt from Perthshire’s brand, Sir Edward’s is
Dedicated to Scotland’s Deanston Distillery, unknown in the UK but
national bard, and which was formerly popular nevertheless,
particularly enjoyable on a cotton mill. especially in France,
January 25, celebrated the Initially targeted at where it is the 10th best-
world over as Burns’ Night the value-conscious selling brand. Industry
—the anniversary of the supermarket buyer, statistics show that sales
great man’s birthday. Scottish Leader has of Sir Edward’s
recently been passed the one million
Ingredients: repackaged and case mark in 2005.
1 Measure (25 ml) of shows signs of an The whisky is provided
blended Scotch Whisky attempted move by Leith Distillers, a
1 Measure (25 ml) Noilly toward a more subsidiary of Whyte &
Prat dry vermouth upmarket territory. Mackay, and supplied
Dash of Benedictine The range of Scottish to the brand owner
Leader expressions Bardinet, of Bordeaux,
Method: includes two blended where it is bottled.
Shake all the ingredients (vatted) malts. There never was a
well with cracked ice until a Scottish Leader Scottish “Sir Edward.”
froth forms, then strain into 40% ABV• The nose Leader Apparently, the late
a chilled glass. Finish with a shows hints of peat, Paul Bardinet, who
twist of lemon peel. while on the palate the started the company at the
whisky is sweetish, with end of the 19th century,
rob roy
Modeled on the Manhattan
(see p198), the warm red
color of this cocktail
reminds us of the legendary
Rob Roy McGregor, outlaw,
folk hero, and Scotland’s
own Robin Hood.
Ingredients:
1 measure (25 ml) of
blended Scotch Whisky
½ measure (about 10 ml) of
Longmorn Distillery supplies one First introduced in 1912 Noilly Prat sweet vermouth
of the distinguished malts in the by Hill Thompson and Co. Dash Angostura bitters
Something Special blend. using casks specially selected
by the directors themselves, Method:
named his imported brand the Something Special Mix all the ingredients over
of whisky after his son, brand is today owned ice. Stir and strain into a
Edward. He then added by Pernod Ricard’s chilled glass. Finish with
the “Sir” to make it whisky subsidiary a twist of lemon peel.
sound more authentic Chivas Brothers.
and aristocratic. As befits its premium
Sir Edward’s is positioning, the Something Special 15 40% ABV
sold as a non-age whisky is presented This is a blend made with up
bottling and a 12- in a distinctive, to 35 of the better Speyside
year-old version. diamond-shaped and Islay malt whiskies, and
bottle, apparently soft grain whiskies, aged in a
the inspiration mixture of European and
Something of an Edinburgh American oak casks. So
Special diamond cutter. while it retains the distinctive
Owner: Chivas Bros.
Something style of Something Special,
Special 40% ABV the 15-year-old expression
Under this bold Something A distinctive blend is of greater intensity,
name, Something Special of dry, fruity, and complexity of character,
Special is a leading spicy flavors, with and depth of flavor.
deluxe Scotch blended a subtle smoky sweetness.
whisky in South America, The highly regarded Whisky from Islay’s distilleries is
and is particularly popular in Longmorn malt is at used sparingly in blends to impart
Venezuela and Colombia. the heart of the blend. depth and smokiness.
152 whiskey nations
trade and began to develop pressures of World War II,

Stewart’s Cream his business. It became death duties, high taxation,
of the Barley famous for its dram shops— and the need for
Owner: Chivas Brothers
so stern and austere in continual investment
character that the licensing and modernization, many
First produced in the early magistrates congratulated families threw in the towel.
1830s by Alexander Stewart the firm on its work in Teacher’s was fortunate.
at Dundee’s Glengarry Inn, temperance reform! It survived on its own
Cream of the Barley quickly There was absolutely no until 1976, then its owners
attained considerable danger of adulterated shrewdly negotiated a
popularity in Scotland. whisky in a Teacher’s deal with Allied Brewers,
By 1969 it was owned by establishment, even if instead of waiting for
Allied Lyons and enjoyed laughter and general the inevitable hostile
good distribution in their merriment were in takeover. By doing
chain of public houses. short supply. so, the family held
The blend was also closely William Teacher on to an important
associated with Glencadam died in 1876 and role, even if
Distillery in Brechin, the sole control of the firm ownership passed
remaining distillery in passed to his sons out of their hands.
Angus. However, in total, the William and Adam. Allied Brewers,
blend contains around 50 Blending became along with the rest
malts. It is now owned by increasingly of the brewing
Chivas Brothers (part of the important to the industry, had its own
Pernod Ricard stable) and is firm, and 1884 saw set of challenges and
a top-selling blended Scotch an event of great Teacher’s pressures, and it
whisky in Ireland. future significance: Highland Cream wasn’t long before
the trademark Allied Brewers
registration of Teacher’s evolved into Allied Lyons
Teacher’s Highland Cream. and then Allied Domecq.
Owner: Fortune Brands
Originally beginning as “a That firm was acquired by
very small item,” Highland Pernod Ricard in 2005, then
The Teacher’s firm was Cream came to dominate sold, along with Laphroaig
established in 1830, when the firm to such an extent and various other wine and
William Teacher opened a that business and brand spirit brands, to Fortune
grocery shop in Piccadilly became inextricably linked. Brands of the US for a
Street, Glasgow. Like other As with many independent reported $6 billion.
whisky entrepreneurs, Scottish companies,
such as John Walker of Teacher’s found it hard Ardmore Distillery is one of the
Kilmarnock, William soon to resist offers of outside essential, characterful malts in
branched out into the spirits capital. Under the sustained the Teacher’s blend.
At its mid-20th-century peak, and the name came from whiskies in the world, White
Vat 69 made it into the world’s the fact that vat number 69 Horse has slipped down the
top 10 best-selling whiskies. was the finest of 100 possible global sales league table.
blends tested by Sanderson Despite this, it remains a
Teachcher’s House Style on trade colleagues. significant brand in its areas
From its earliest days, Accordingly, Sanderson of strength, especially Japan,
Teacher’s has always been launched his whisky as Brazil, Greece, Africa, and
a full-flavored blend, VAT 69 in 1882. parts of the US, and the
strongly built on the At its peak, VAT 69 blend is still marketed in
company’s characterful was the 10th best-selling more than 100 countries.
single malts from whisky in the world and Its heyday came under the
Glendronach and, more even starred in an early ownership and direction of
particularly, Ardmore. example of product Peter Mackie, who, from
In fact, more than 35 placement. In the 1890, was one of the most
single whiskies go into 1959 film Our Man in famous characters in the
the Highland Cream Havana, one of James whisky trade. He took over
blend to this day— Wormold’s agents the family business from his
an individual whisky, is found dead with
with a silky texture a bottle of Vat 69 shackleton’s thirst
and quite a quick clutched in his hand.
finish that leaves the Today its owners, Sir Ernest Shackleton took
palate refreshed. Diageo, give global along with him on his 1907
precedence to the Antarctic Expedition bottles
Johnnie Walker and of Whyte & Mackay, which
VAT 69 J&B brands. turned up 100 years later
encased in polar ice. For
Owner: Diageo
his Imperial Trans-Antarctic
Though this blend White Horse Expedition of 1914,
is still selling more VAT 69 however, he took supplies
Owner: Diageo
than one million of VAT 69, stating that it
cases annually in places such White Horse is named after would be used “for
as Venezuela, Spain, and one of Edinburgh’s famous medicinal emergencies
Australia, it might not be coaching inns, The White and for feast days in the
entirely unreasonable to Horse Cellar Inn, place of Antarctic.” This evidently
suggest that the glory days embarkation for the eight- was his more favored dram
of VAT 69 are behind it. day coach trip to London. for boosting morale, as
Once this was the flagship Once selling around two Shackleton opted for further
of the independent South million cases annually and supplies of VAT 69 on his
Queensferry blenders holding a position as one of 1921 expedition.
William Sanderson & Co. the 10 best-selling Scotch
154 whiskey nations
Fall of the house of Usher
Today you can buy a bottle of Usher’s Green “Messrs Usher controlled the whole output
Stripe in the US for $12.99. The brand, now of the famous Glenlivet Distillery.”
controlled by Diageo, is among the lowest Andrew Usher II was a blending pioneer,
priced Scotch whiskies available, yet, having learned the necessary skills from his
despite such aggressive pricing, volumes mother, as was the family tradition. Usher’s
have fallen steadily for the last 10 years. Old Vatted Glenlivet is recognized as the
It is perhaps doubtful that today’s first modern blended whisky. Such was
Usher’s drinker either knows or cares the firm’s success that by the late 19th
that this was once one of the foremost century the Ushers were established
companies in Scotch whisky, and as generous philanthropists.
arguably the father of blending. The firm joined the Distillers Company
With a family business established (DCL) in 1919 and the Usher’s brand slowly
in Edinburgh in 1813, the Ushers faded, eventually reduced to the indignity
established themselves as successful Usher’s of bulk export for local bottling and
agents. By 1840 it was noted that Green Stripe today’s bottom shelf discount offers.
Glenlivet was where blending started,

in a sense, with Usher’s Old Vatted
Glenlivet, introduced in 1853.
uncle and soon made an The firm’s reputation which has been a long-
impression on all who met rested on the quality of standing Scottish favorite.
him. Sir Robert Bruce its blending, and Mackie Having been through a
Lockhart famously described shrewdly commissioned the bewildering number of
him as “one-third genius, noted journalist and whisky owners in recent years, this
one-third megalomaniac authority Alfred Barnard venerable Glasgow company
and one-third eccentric.” (see p50) to write for them was acquired in May 2007
Mackie’s nickname was the handsome pamphlet by the Indian conglomerate
“Restless Peter,” and his entitled, “How to Blend UB Group for over
favorite aphorism, “Nothing Scotch Whisky.” $1 billion. Plans to expand
is impossible.” White Horse 40% ABV capacity at Invergordon,
A complex and satisfying Whyte & Mackay’s grain
blend, White Horse whisky distillery, have already
retains the robust flavor been announced, so blending
of Lagavulin, assisted by will presumably be of
renowned Speysiders such increased future importance.
as Aultmore. With its long Today the firm offers a
finish, this is an elegant range of expressions: the
and stylish whisky. Special—ironically a
standard blend—and five
other blends aged at 13,
Whyte & Mackay 19, 22, 30, and 40 years.
Though the more cynical
drinker might view the
Whyte & Mackay traces its unusual age statements as
history back to 1844, when being driven by the need to
it was founded by James stand out on the shop shelf,
Whyte and Charles Mackay. the company claim “the
The art of blending may be about By the late 19th century they extra year gives the whisky a
balancing flavors, but it is also had begun blending and had chance to marry for a longer
vital to know the value of whiskies launched the company’s period, giving it a distinct
and understand potential markets. flagship “Special” brand, graceful smoothness.”
Certainly, Whyte & and the vast majority of was blended in Liverpool
Mackay’s master blender the distillery’s output by William Lawson; the
Richard Paterson, who was reserved for blending. trademark was registered in
joined the firm in 1970, In recent years, however, 1889. After various changes
is very highly regarded Jura’s eponymous single in ownership, the name
in the industry and has malt has enjoyed growing ended up with the Italian
received a large sales in its own right. vermouth producers Martini
number of awards Great stress is & Rossi, through their
and citations. He laid on marrying purchase of the MacDuff
created the “new” the blend at Whyte Distillery (home of the Glen
40-year-old blend, & Mackay, and the Deveron single malt).
which enjoys a very company has long This distillery had been
high malt content— been an adherent to constructed in 1960 by a
70 percent malt to the time-consuming consortium of whisky
30 percent grain— process in which first blenders to a design by the
but is available only the malts are married, innovative Welsh distillery
in limited quantities. before combining architect William Delmé-
The main market with the grain whisky Evans (who also designed
for Whyte & Mackay Whyte & Mackay and marrying again Glenallachie, Isle of Jura,
has historically been Special in sherry butts. The and Tullibardine distilleries).
the UK, though the resulting blends, it The original partners sold
older styles, especially the must be said, are noticeably the business, which was
13-year-old, are popular smooth and well-balanced. eventually bought in 1972
in Spain, France, and by Martini, who expanded
Scandinavia. This may the distillery. Bacardi then
well change under the new William Lawson’s acquired Martini & Rossi
ownership, however, with Owner: John Dewar & Son (Bacardi)
in late 1992.
Asian sales likely to grow Though not available in
rapidly thanks to the India- The William Lawson’s range the UK, the various William
based UB Group. of whiskies is blended and Lawson’s expressions sell
The Whyte & Mackay STyle bottled in Coatbridge and well over one million cases
The “backbone” of the Glasgow by John Dewar & annually and are extremely
company’s blends emanates Sons (see p130), and is thus popular in France, where
from Speyside and the ultimately owned by Bacardi. they are positioned at the top
Highlands, though small However, the brand can be end of the “value” market.
quantities from Islay, traced back to 1849, when it Belgium, Spain, and
Campbeltown, and the
Lowlands are also used. Whyte & Mackay, now part
For many years, Jura of the mighty UB Group, still
produced whisky in has its offices in Glasgow,
a “Speyside” style, where the firm began.
156 whiskey nations
Alcohol levels in maturing spirit William Lawson’s Finest some 26 percent. Indeed,
are regularly checked, and whisky 40% ABV • With its heart of standard and low-price
usually diluted prior to bottling – Glen Deveron Single Malt, brands are virtually
blends typically down to 40% ABV. William Lawson’s Finest unknown.
blended Scotch whisky Moreover, the South
Venezuela are also significant is distinguished by a Korean market has been
markets for Lawson’s. satisfyingly well-balanced growing fast,
In recent years, the brand palate, with hints of a crisp and—though not
has been noted for its stylish toffee apple flavor. Its body is without some
and witty TV advertising, medium to full and the finish alarms. Diageo
featuring an iconoclastic slightly dry, with oak notes. faced its own
approach to the kilt in some problems in
unusual settings. 2007, when
The range comprises Windsor Korea’s tax
William Lawson’s Finest, Owner: Diageo authorities
which is the standard style; found it
a 12-year-old Scottish Gold; This premium brand of dealing with
and two premium styles. Scotch whisky, marketed by unlicensed
Of the premium blends, Diageo in South Korea, is wholesalers.
Founder’s Reserve is an 18- not to be confused with its Assuming
year-old blend, first created Canadian namesake these local
in 2000, and Private (see p221), a low-price difficulties Windsor 12
Reserve is a limited offering, or even the can be Premium
edition 21-year-old, company’s own barely ironed out,
which launched in 2004. visible Windsor Castle Diageo’s Windsor looks set
Spanish sherry and blend. Launched in for further growth. Already
American bourbon 1996, Windsor is it is claimed to be the largest
oak casks are used a serious player in selling super premium
for maturing the South Korea, one Scotch whisky in the world,
whisky, with Glen of the world’s and accordingly has its own
Deveron Single largest whisky unique bottle shapes.
Malt employing markets. In keeping with the
the highest Gratifyingly, premium standards of
percentage of premium whisky this status-driven market,
sherry wood of brands account there are two expressions:
any whisky in the for 72 percent of a 12‑year-old blend and a
Dewar’s group. sales there, while 17‑year-old super premium.
This contributes to super and ultra Windsor 17 features a
its full flavor and Windsor 17 premium whisky luminous label to make it
rich color. Super Premium brands take up stand out in dimly lit clubs.
Whisky Liqueurs
A liqueur is a sweetened product, in which additional flavors of spices,
flowers, fruits, seeds, or roots are introduced to the spirit base through
redistillation, infusion, or maceration. Today, whisky liqueurs are a
distinct category, albeit dominated by one brand—Drambuie.
Whisky liqueurs have a long that flavors Drambuie’s whisky

historical tradition. The Practical base lies in the hands of the senior
Distiller of 1718 includes several female representative of the line.
recipes for making them, Other brands compete for
including one for “Fine this market, which stretches
Usquebaugh,” which required worldwide. They include:
the addition of spices, raisins, Glayva, from Whyte &
dates, a quantity of Lisbon Mackay; Columba Cream
sugar, and other ingredients (a cream-based whisky liqueur
to rectified malt spirits. in the style of Bailey’s); Amber,
This may have had much to from Macallan; and a number
do with the low quality of the Drambuie
of liqueurs based exclusively
spirit base, but here, in the on the whisky from specific
early 18th century, we see the distilleries, such as Arran, Edradour,
antecedents of today’s whisky liqueur. Glenturret, Old Pulteney, and
Drambuie is produced today by an Glenfiddich Liqueurs.
independent company controlled by An interesting recent development
the descendants of Captain John is the introduction of Orangerie from
MacKinnnon. It was to MacKinnon Compass Box. Described as a “whisky
that Prince Charles Edward Stuart infusion,” this is not strictly a liqueur,
(“Bonnie Prince Charlie”) reputedly as it is unsweetened, but it represents
entrusted the secret recipe of his own an exciting contemporary spin on a
personal liqueur in recognition of the time-honored tradition.
captain’s loyalty. Even today, the recipe
Edradour Distillery produces its own cream
is known only to the MacKinnon liqueur—a combination of Edradour single
family, and responsibility for the elixir malt whisky and Scottish cream.
whiskey nations 159
ireland
Sitting, as it does, in the warm damp gulf stream on the very

edge of western Europe, it is perhaps not surprising that the
story of Irish whiskey is something of a misty and romantic
tale. It is also an astonishing and frustrating one.
T
o begin with, there are the a product that was consistent in terms
enigmatic monks—the healers of both quality and availability. Today,
of western Europe who are we’re used to branded drinks tasting
thought to have brought distilling to identical wherever in the world you buy
Ireland in the wake of the Black Death in them, but in the 19th century this notion
the 14th century. They effectively policed of sameness was revolutionary.
the production of uisce beatha until the However, Irish whiskey was labour
Reformation, some 200 years later. With intensive and expensive to produce. Pot
the Dissolution of the Monasteries in the stills were, and still are, slow and terribly
mid-16th century, distilling spread into inefficient. Each load is produced singly,
communities as a cottage industry. batch by batch, and, between each run,
However, this all changed with the the stills have to be cooled and cleaned.
arrival of English law, set up at the
beginning of the 17th century to exact continuous distillation
taxation from distilling. In response, The holy grail of distilling was a system
much distilling went underground, that allowed continuous distillation—this
resulting in two national drinks, duty was the way to raise the economies of
paid whiskey and illegal poteen. scale, and so increase both productivity
Duty paid, or Parliament, whiskey and profits. The goal was achieved by an
(always spelled with an “e” in Ireland) Irishman, Aeneas Coffey (see p172), and
went on to dominate the British Empire, his Patent Still changed distilling forever.
as it was the Irish and not the Scots who Some Irish distilleries, especially in
were first to turn distilling into a global Belfast, did install Coffey’s still, but as
business. The golden age of Irish whiskey far as the major Dublin distillers were
dawned early in the 19th century, and concerned, the problem with “Coffey’s
most of Ireland’s most famous brands— Patent Continuous Distilling Apparatus,”
Jameson, Powers, and Bushmills—date as they referred to it, was that it didn’t
from this period. The Irish anticipated produce what they considered to be
the needs of the mass market, creating whiskey. “These things,” they wrote in
a circular, “no more yield whiskey than
Old Bushmills in County Antrim is Ireland’s oldest they yield wine or beer.” The Dublin
surviving distillery, producing its own single malts whiskey hierarchy was famous for its
as well as whiskey for many well-known blends. flavorsome, “oily” pot still whiskey. It was
160 whiskey nations
the way things were ireland’S DISTILLERIES nation was thrown into
done, and they weren’t %86+0,//6
turmoil as Ireland firstly
for changing. /RQGRQGHUU\
entered into a war of
The Scots and English, %HOIDVW independence with the
though, had nothing to 1, British, then embarked on
lose by adopting the a bitter civil war. By 1922
&22/(<
Coffey still. Although it was a divided country.
expensive to commission, *DOZD\ 'XEOLQ In the south, the Irish Free
they could produce in a 5(38%/,&2) State was founded, while six
week what a traditional ,5(/$1' of Ireland’s Ulster counties
pot still could make in remained part of the UK.
nine months. &RUN 0,'/(721
American Prohibition and an
The Irish had taken economic war with Britain hit
their eye off the ball, so the distillers hard: almost
it’s doubtful that anyone in Dublin made overnight their two largest export
a fuss when changes to the law in the markets dried up. To make things worse,
mid-19th century allowed whiskey to be the newly free Catholic Ireland reignited
stored and blended prior to the point of the church dominated temperance
taxation, which was now only on movement, and the distillers found they
shipment. This subtle change meant that had very few friends in government.
merchants were free to buy, blend, and
bottle their own whiskies without having Across the divide
to pay tax up front. Silent spirit could By the mid 1960s, there were just two
now be blended with some very distilleries left, one either side of a
individual highland malt to produce bitterly sectarian border. From that
a new kind of whiskey. The quality of nadir, however, the present state of the
these Scottish blends was consistent, but whiskey industry looks more promising.
unlike Irish whiskey, they were easy to It centers on three distilleries: Midleton,
make and cheap to produce. The names Bushmills, and Cooley—the new
Johnnie Walker and Tommy Dewar are addition to the two left standing in the
still with us, but they were not distillers— 1960s. These three distilleries produce
they were blenders and bottlers, and they all of the brands and bottlings of Irish
went on to become whiskey barons. whiskey, from popular blends to single
malts and the last two remaining pure
troubled times pot still Irish whiskies.
The dawn of the 20th century brought
little comfort for the Irish. After a long Bushmills is Ireland’s oldest distillery, and its
court battle, Blended Scotch was allowed roots can be traced back to the whiskey
to be called whiskey. Then, the whole industry’s beginnings in the 1600s.
ireland 161
Distilleries, malts, pot stills

Ireland’s distilleries, though now few and far between, maintain a strong
tradition of producing unique, world-class malt and pure pot still whiskies.
Ireland’s blends are covered on pages 169–77.
An elegant and tasty This is Christmas cake

Bushmills dram, quite unlike and waves of butter, nuts,
2 Distillery Road, Bushmills,
anything else produced and dried fruit. A
County Antrim in Ireland—or Scotland seriously long finish.
www.bushmills.com
for that matter. Malty,
Open to visitors
with a hint of nutty
fudge—warms nicely Clontarf
Of the 28 Irish distilleries on the way down. Single Malt
recorded by the Victorian Bushmills Malt 12 Distillery: Midleton
writer Alfred Barnard Distillery Reserve www.clontarf
(see p50) in his guide to 40% ABV • The 12-year- whiskey.com
the distilleries of the United old reserve is a small
Kingdom, Bushmills is the but significant malt Clontarf is a brand
only one where whiskey is that can only be that started life with
still made. Kilbeggan and bought from the a unique selling point:
the Old Midleton distilleries distillery shop. after maturation,
now house museums; only at Sweet and figgy, it was charcoal
Old Bushmills will you find with the signature mellowed. This
pot stills that still feel the Bushmills biscuitiness Clontarf rather overpowered
heat of action. in evidence. Round, Single Malt the original Cooley
For a distillery with such dry fruits, and a malt, and the current
a long history, it is not touch of liquorice. Bushmills whiskey doesn’t
surprising that Old Bushmills Malt 16 40% ABV fare any better.
Bushmills has survived by Slightly older bourbon and Clontarf Single Malt 40% ABV
changing with the times. sherry-wood matured single An incredibly sweet drink,
At one point, like just about malt whiskies are vatted and which overwhelms whatever
every other distillery in aged for a further year in else the whiskey may have to
Ireland, it produced pot still port pipes, resulting in an offer; hard to see what the
whiskey. But with the rise in exceptional 16-year-old malt. charcoal mellowing achieves.
popularity of Scotch single The color—amber shot
malts, like its near neighbors through with ruby—is a Irish coffee
across the narrow strip of dead giveaway to the two-
the Irish Sea, Bushmills went fold maturation process. An Ingredients: Half a cup
on to produce a peated malt. intense fusion of citrus and of good quality coffee
Today the distillery’s chocolate make this a 1 measure (25 ml) of
malts are unpeated, and most extraordinarily Irish whiskey
Bushmills is the only flavorful malt. 2 spoonfuls of brown sugar
distillery in Ireland Bushmills Malt 21 Madeira 1 tbsp (20 ml) of freshly
whose output is purely Finish 40% ABV whipped cream
single malt whiskey— The oldest Bushmills
its blends (see p169) expression is a 21- Method: Pour the shot of
use grain whiskey year-old malt. Due to whiskey into a warmed
bought in from Ireland’s mild climate, stemmed glass. Pour in the
Midleton Distillery. a 21-year-old Irish coffee up to within ½ in
Bushmills Malt 10 malt can be far more (15 mm) of the top. Put in
40% ABV• This is fragile than a similar the sugar and stir until it is
triple distilled and aged Scotch, and dissolved. Place the spoon
peat free, and, given here Bushmills have onto the rim of the glass,
how familiar its put an already old face up, ensuring that the
square bottles have whiskey into Madeira curved part of the spoon is
become, it is hard wood for a further just touching the coffee.
to believe that this two to three years. Pour the cream onto the
single malt was first Launched in 2001, spoon; it will flow over the
bottled as recently Bushmills this takes maturation edge and rest on the coffee.
as 1987. Malt 16 to a new level.
162 whiskey nations
the bushmills story

The north Antrim coast is home to the spectacular Giants Causeway,
a naturally occurring phenomenon of mostly six-sided basalt
columns. But inland just a couple of miles, is something that is
arguably even more famous: the Old Bushmills Distillery.
The present distillery, with bed of illegal distilling.

its Scottish style “pagoda” By the 19th century, the
roof, dates from the late Irish whiskey industry had
19th century, but distilling greatly expanded, but little
here goes back to the very changed at Bushmills. The
beginning of English law in distillery continued distilling
Ireland at the start of the only malt whiskey, most of
17th century. Up until this which was drunk locally.
time, Gaelic, or Brehon law, Old Bushmills’ Ironically, that’s what
had allowed anyone to Cooperidge ensured Bushmills’ survival.
freely distil. One of the first things the It was small enough to weather the
new English Governor of Ulster did, storm that brought the major Dublin
however, was to introduce taxation on and Belfast distilleries to their knees.
distilling, thereby creating a divide It was 1964 before Old Bushmills
between legal, duty paid whiskey and passed out of family ownership, when
illegal poteen. From 1608, anyone it was sold to the English brewers
distilling “within the county of Charrington. However, distilling was
Colrane” had to pay Sir Thomas of secondary importance to the beer
Phillips a royalty—indeed, that’s where giant, and in the 1970s, Bushmills was
the term “royalty” comes from. For first bought by Seagram of Montreal
Phillips, it amounted to a license to before becoming a subsidiary of the
print money. Irish Distillers Group (IDG).
There’s no record of how the locals For a generation that’s how things
reacted to the new state of affairs—but remained. Bushmills’ fine whiskies won
we can guess. This had always been plenty of accolades, but, as part of
whiskey country, and it remained a hot IDG, they were always in the shadow
of the Jameson brand. All that changed,
Old Bushmills Distillery produces only single
malt, and for its blends uses grain whiskey however, with Bushmills coming into
brought in from elsewhere. the hands of Diageo in 2006.
ireland 163
Connemara Malts
Distillery: Cooley
www.connemarawhiskey.com
Of all Cooley’s whiskies, this

is the one that caused the
biggest stir in Ireland’s
whiskey industry. It seemed
to contradict everything that
the Irish whiskey sector held
sacrosanct. Bad enough that
it wasn’t triple distilled in the
traditional manner; even
worse … it was peated.
Connemara takes its name Connemara also produce a The Locke Distillery warehouses
from Ireland’s western cask strength monster. It is have been put to good use,
seaboard, and although it non chill-filtered, allowing maturing Cooley’s whiskey.
owes a lot more to Islay than this excellent whiskey to
to Galway, it would be wrong really strut its stuff on your new whiskey with instant
to think of it as “Highland taste buds. One for purists. provenance. Better still, he
light.” Connemara is a more Connemara Single Malt leased the silent Locke’s
earthy malt than you’ll find • A sweet whiskey,
40% ABV Distillery at Kilbeggan
in Scotland, and, being with a gentle, peaty heart to mature his whiskey.
warehoused in Kilbeggan— and loads of malty character. Having weathered some
which is about as far from Connemara Cask Strength tumultuous corporate storms
the sea as it’s possible to get Minty, smoky, and much (see p164), Cooley now
in Ireland—there’s no salt or oilier and mouth-coating produces whiskey for
iodine. Connemara, then, is than the original version. Connemara, as well as
a breed unto itself—a unique There’s a soft chocolate Greenore, Locke’s, Michael
whiskey that allows us to finish and a distant rumble Collins, and Tyrconnell malt
taste age-old flavors of a of turf embers. brands (see pp165–68).
peated Irish malt whiskey. The original plant on the
As well as the standard Cooley peninsula was joined
single malt, there is a 12- Cooley in 2007 by a microdistillery
year-old. This is Cooley’s Riverstown, Cooley, County Louth
in the old Locke’s Distillery
oldest and rarest malt simply www.cooleywhiskey.com
in Kilbeggan (see p165).
because the distillery was
mothballed between 1993 John Teeling knew a lot
and 1995. Until stocks catch about business but little of Dungourney 1964
up with demand, a limited the world of whiskey when Distillery: Midleton
amount of casks can be he founded Cooley Distillery
released. In addition, in 1987 on the site of a In 1994 Midleton’s master
disused industrial alcohol distiller Barry Crockett made
producing plant. At the time, a once in a lifetime discovery.
the French drinks company In a dusty corner of
Pernod Richard had recently warehouse No. 11, he found
bought Irish Distillers, and an old cask that was not on
Teeling knew that the French any stock chart. It turned out
would seek to capitalize on to be 30 years old and had
their monopoly by pushing been laid down by Barry’s
the Jameson brand globally. father when he was the
Irish whiskey then counted master distiller back in 1964.
for 10 percent of world In honor of the river that
sales, and Teeling saw an runs through Midleton and
opportunity to succeed with at one time was used in the
the Cooley Distillery if he making of spirit here, the
could just get a fraction of whiskey has been given the
the Irish whiskey market. name Dungourney.
Teeling did his homework. An old elegant leather
Whiskey needs heritage, armchair of a whiskey, with
so he bought up some old crisp biscuity sweetness. A
Connemara brands, such as Locke’s and real charmer with a distant
Cask Strength Tyrconnell, providing his whiff of oak and custard.
164 whiskey nations
cooley’s Narrow escape

In a world dominated by global brands and multinational drinks
companies, Cooley Distillery is that most Irish of things, a rebel.
And if you’re going to be an Irish rebel, then Easter Sunday is a
pretty good day to step up and start the revolution.
In 1989, entrepreneur Teeling a $45 million

and permanent teetotaller offer. He would have
Dr. John Teeling fired up undoubtedly accepted,
the stills in Ireland’s only but Ireland’s Competition
independent distillery. Authority was unhappy
Teeling had bought the with the proposed takeover.
distillery on the Cooley They decided that the
peninsula in 1987 from inflated price Pernod
the Irish State, who had Ricard were willing to
originally built the plant The short, squat stills at pay for a distillery they
Cooley tend to produce a
in the 1950s to turn intended to close down
fuller, “heavier” spirit.
diseased potatoes into implied that their interest
industrial alcohol. was in shoring up their monopoly of
The business was cash flowed for the Irish whiskey market. The takeover
three years while the first batches of was, therefore, ruled to be in
whiskey matured, and the plan was for breach of European Law.
Teeling to then sell Cooley as a going With the French off the scene and no
concern, complete with warehouses other knight in shining armor around,
full of Irish whiskey ready to sell. the Irish banks started to call in their
Initially there was plenty of interest, debts. Teeling had just a week to fend
but by 1992 Europe was slipping into off the receivers and convince Cooley’s
recession. The whiskey industry was backers to pre-buy millions of dollars
tightening its belt and, in a declining worth of stock. Amazingly, he did this,
market, no one was buying distilleries. and in 1995 the stills fired back into life
By 1993 the money had run out and and the spirit flowed once more.
Teeling mothballed the Cooley plant.
Cooley’s whiskey is matured in casks in the
Then, however, a curious thing centuries-old warehouses of the silent
happened: Pernod Ricard made Locke’s Distillery in Kilbeggan.
Ireland 165
blender Noel Sweeney, A strictly limited 6,000

Williamstown who has something of a bottles are produced
Ingredients: 1 measure soft spot for his single each year.
(25 ml) of Irish whiskey grain whiskey. Most are sold
½ measure (about 10 ml) Greenore 8-year-old in Ireland; they never
of Irish Mist liqueur Single Grain 40% ABV make it as far as the
A splash of red lemonade The incredible airport retail outlets,
(only available in Ireland, linseed nose promises though it is possible to
but try white lemonade or a plenty, and the buy via online stores.
dash of ginger ale) whiskey delivers. Green Spot 40% ABV
Garnish: twist of lemon Gentle but firm on Matured for six to
the tongue, with seven years, Green
Method: Pour ingredients peppery cereal and Spot’s pot-still crackle
over crushed ice in an old- darkest chocolate. of linseed and menthol
fashioned glass. Garnish is unmistakable, and
with the twist of lemon. the sherry flourishes
Green Spot that follow are like
Distillery: Midleton
fireworks—brief
Green Spot and dazzling.
Greenore There was a time,
Single Grain and not too long ago, when
Irish distilleries simply made The Irishman
Distillery: Cooley
their whiskey, leaving the Distillery: Bushmills
County Louth is Ireland’s bottling and selling to
smallest county; it’s also independent retailers. The malt here comes from
home to Ireland’s smallest These were the wine and Bushmills, but it is the
distilling group, Cooley spirit merchants, and they double cask finish (a mix of
(see opposite & p163). The were to be found in just whiskies that have been
Cooley plant produces all of about every town in the matured in sherry and
its malt and grain whiskey country. Most merchants bourbon casks) that makes
requirements, which is sold “own brand” whiskey this offering very interesting.
unusual in today’s industry— straight from the cask; some A premium bottling released
in Scotland, grain whisky for would even bottle it, though, in batches of 1,000 cases.
blending tends to be bought back then, glass bottles were The Irishman Single Malt
in from specialist grain an expensive innovation that 40% ABV• Like all single malts
whisky distilleries. However, would surely never catch on! produced by Bushmills, the
Cooley’s grain distilling After the foundation of soft cereal is most evident,
operation doesn’t have the Irish Distillers, sales to the
kind of economies of scale country’s spirit merchants Kilbeggan’s Micro
seen in Scottish grain were scaled back and
distilleries, or even in eventually they ceased Although the stills went
Midleton, so consequently is altogether—well almost. cold in 1953, John Locke’s
very expensive to produce. Mitchell’s in Dublin is now Distillery is one of the most
However, Greenmore the only remaining precious distilleries in the
is the only single Irish whiskey merchant in entire world. To celebrate the
grain whiskey available, business, and its famous 250th anniversary of its
and it is a drink of Green Spot brand is still foundation, Cooley started
which the company is supplied by Irish making whiskey here again
very proud and eager to Distillers. That alone
in 2007. The still itself is a
keep producing. would be a good
real piece of history—it came
Named after reason for getting
the nearby port a bottle, but this from nearby Tullamore and is
of Greenore, the is no ordinary at least 150 years old.
whiskey is double whiskey. It’s a Currently, the first
distilled, then pure pot still, and distillation happens in the
matured in a rather good one main Cooley plant in Louth,
once-used to boot. with the second taking place
bourbon casks This whiskey is in Kilbeggan, but there will
for a minimum now released as a soon be a second still in
of eight years. 7 to 8-year-old Kilbeggan, and so it won’t
The casks to be pure pot still, with be long before the entire
bottled are hand a juicy quarter of distilling and maturing
picked by master Greenore 8-Year-Old the vatting coming process takes place on site.
distiller and Single Grain from sherry wood.
166 whiskey nations
but here the sherry adds their hearts too, and

complexity and some became their hell-raising Midleton
sweetness, rounding off a whiskey of choice. Midleton, County Cork
very tasty malt indeed. Modern-day Locke’s is www.irishdistillers.ie
a single malt rather than Old Midleton Distillery is open
a pot still (see p168), to visitors as a museum; the new,
Knappogue and although distilled working distillery is not
CASTLE in County Louth, like
Distillery: Bushmills
all Cooley whiskey, it The modern Midleton plant,
is taken by tanker to which has been in operation
When Mark Andrews be matured at John since the mid-1970s (see
got to bottle the Locke’s warehouses. opposite) produces the most
whiskey his father had Locke’s Single Malt astonishing range of whiskies,
bought from the 8‑year-old 40% ABV from heavy to light, pure pot
Tullamore Distillery Soft and clean if a still to single malt to grain.
in 1951, he chose to little uninspiring. This Unlike the situation in
call it after the family vatting of Cooley’s Scotland, however, very few
home. So the 36- Locke’s unpeated and peated of these whiskies ever get
year-old Knappogue 8-Year-Old malts is less than the bottled in their own right.
Castle was born, and Single Malt sum of its parts. Most provide notes, colors,
it proved so popular and flavors that are mixed
that Mark decided to bottle a and blended to produce the
vintage whiskey on an annual Michael Collins huge range of brands in
basis. The first modern Distillery: Cooley
the Irish Distillers stable,
bottlings were released in www.michaelcollins
which includes Paddy,
1990 and came from the whiskey.com
Jameson, and Powers
Cooley stable, but more (see pp172–6).
recent vintages have been This range of whiskies
produced with whiskey from was designed for the
Bushmills Distillery. American market, Redbreast
Knappogue Castle ’95 40% ABV and it bears the Distillery: Midleton
This vintage is an excellent name, and indeed
example of the Bushmills the signature, of one Redbreast 12-year-
house style. The triple of Ireland’s greatest old is the oldest
distilled single malt is very modern heroes. pure pot still
approachable, with plenty Michael Collins, also whiskey on sale
of light nuts and warming known as “the big today. It and the
toasted malt. It is, however, fellow,” spearheaded younger Green
still quite young and so not Ireland’s struggle for Spot (see p165)
a very complex whiskey. independence and Redbreast are all that is left of
was the architect of 12-Year-Old Ireland’s unique style
the 1921 treaty, from Pot Still of whiskey—the pure
Locke’s which the modern pot still (see p168).
Distillery: Cooley
Irish state emerged. Redbreast was initially
Sidney Frank is the launched in 1939, when
Of all the heritages and company behind the brand, whiskey merchants Gilbey’s
brands that Cooley and they worked with Tim put the label on their own
revived, surely that of Pat Coogan, the official particular blend from the
John Locke was the biographer of Michael original Jameson Distillery.
most evocative. Collins, to contact the The brand was so popular
The Brusna Distillery in Collins family when that it was subsequently
Kilbeggan survived until seeking an agreement bought from Gilbey’s by
the 1950s and, among to use Michael’s name Jameson, after the distiller
older people at any on their whiskey. ceased to supply the bonded
rate, there was a Michael Collins Single whiskey trade in the 1960s.
tremendous fondness Malt 40% ABV • Creamy The present Redbreast is
for their heavy pot still biscuits, smooth made of heavier pot still
whiskey. When vanilla, and some very whiskies that are matured for
Hollywood’s John decent peat; this malt at least 12 years in sherry
Ford and John Wayne is a vatting of Cooley’s casks and bourbon barrels.
were filming The Quiet peated and unpeated Like all good pot still
Man on location in single malts, and it whiskies, it is strongly
Ireland in 1951, Michael Collins hangs together flavored and assertive,
Locke’s was taken to Single Malt most beautifully. making it a rare treat.
Ireland 167
the midleton story

There’s not one distillery in the pretty town of Midleton, but two. The
first looks as a distillery should—modest in scale, with bright paintwork
—the other looks like an oil refinery. Needless to say, the former is a
museum, while the latter produces some of Ireland’s finest whiskies.
To comprehend the done. John A. Ryan, the

story of what’s going Managing Director of
on in Midleton is to John Power & Son
understand the complex (see p176) persuaded the
history of whiskey boards of the Cork
making in Ireland. Distilleries Company
The old Victorian and John Jameson &
distillery belongs to the Son to bury the hatchet.
heyday of Irish whiskey Midleton’s Distillery is a high- After 200 years of
—when Irish, not tech operation, but its pot stills rivalry and competition
are resolutely traditional.
Scotch, was the drink of the Irish Distillers
the British Empire. Midleton Distillery Group was formed. The old Powers
was born in 1867, when five small and Jameson distilleries in Dublin were
Cork distilleries joined forces to form closed, and operations were centralized
The Cork Distilleries Company at a new super-distillery in Midleton.
(CDC). Over time CDC centralized Midleton’s Victorian distillery was
all production at the Midleton plant; abandoned, as in 1975 the new plant
it was a taste of things to come. set sail, carrying with it the hopes of
Fast-forward 100 years to 1966, and an entire industry. The new Midleton
we find that Scotch whisky has become Distillery does not have the romance
a global phenomenon while Irish of the old one, but it has been designed
whiskey teeters on the brink of specifically to replicate the output of
extinction. The three Irish distilleries all the distilleries it replaced. As well
still remaining were fighting each as making vodka and gin, it has to
other to the death in a declining reproduce the taste of Ireland’s most
market, and something needed to be famous whiskies: Jameson, Powers, and
Paddy. Today Midleton produces the
Old Midleton Distillery, with its neat
stonework and brightly painted shutters, widest range of whiskies to come from
now houses a whiskey museum. Ireland (see opposite).
168 whiskey nations
Redbreast 12-Year Old Tyrconnell whiskey was to make this a very

40% ABV • Other whiskies may launched to celebrate a approachable malt.
have “pot still character,” but well-known horse that Tyrconnell 10-year-old
this is the real deal. It’s a fat, made everyone but the Single Malt Port Wood
oily riot in a glass, with the bookies happy by Finish 40% ABV • The nose
unmalted barley bringing winning at staggering is very spicy and exotic;
a whole new dimension to odds of 100/1. but the port sits
whiskey drinking. There’s This unpeated single slightly on top of the
a lovely long finish that malt was the first whiskey. However,
resonates soundly for ages. whiskey that Cooley there’s plenty of fig,
Redbreast 15-year-old produced at their new raisins, and ripe
40% ABV• This whiskey is a distillery when they plums, as well as
huge mouth-coating carnival began producing in a lovely warm finish.
of sherry and vanilla pods, the late 1980s. It is Tyrconnell 10-year-
but the pot still is not shy now the company’s old Single Malt Madeira
and here it is aged to best selling malt. Wood Finish • 40% ABV
perfection. Full flavored Alongside the standard These were good
but not assertive, this is a malt are three 10-year- Madeira casks and
monster of a whiskey. old malts with Tyrconnell the flavor of warm
Redbreast is simply one of different wood Single Malt toasted wood is very
the world’s finest whiskies. finishes—sherry, prevalent. It is sweet,
madeira, and port. There’s but not overpoweringly so.
nothing new about finishing A great rumble of a finish.
Tyrconnell malts whiskey in exotic casks, Tyrconnell 10-year-old
Distillery: Cooley
but this is a first for Cooley Single Malt Sherry Wood Finish
www.tyrconnellwhiskey.com
and a sign of their growing 40% ABV • It’s not a radical
confidence. combination, but here the
The Tyrconnell brand was Tyrconnell Single Malt flowery malt and fruity
one of the first things Cooley 40% ABV • Cooley’s signature sherry fuse beautifully. The
bought when the company boiled sweets nose is most sherry butts add complexity,
went shopping for history (see evident here and the flowery but leave room for the
p163). First introduced in malt is very well put elegant whiskey to impress.
1876 by Derry distiller together. Sweet notes of The most accomplished of
Andrew A. Watt & Co., the honey and jasmine combine the three wood finishes.
pot still whiskey

Pot still whiskey is unique to Ireland. But, is made from. This is how Cooley’s single
ironically, Ireland’s most independent spirit malt is labeled as “pure pot still.”
is without a firm standing in law. While However, traditionally, the appellation
Scotland has annexed the term “single malt,” was reserved for spirits distilled from malted
Ireland has all but thrown away the unique and unmalted barley. This grain mix is unique
expression that is “pure pot still,” and now to Ireland and this is what traditionally makes a
two contrasting definitions exist to describe pure pot still whiskey. The element of unmalted
what constitutes pot still whiskey. barley gives traditional Irish pot still whiskey a
The legal definition simply states that any steely edge and an oily viscosity that’s as
duty-paid spirit distilled in a pot still can be flavorsome as it is unique. Once, just about
called pot still whiskey, regardless of what it every Irish whiskey was a pure pot still, but the
appellation almost disappeared in the 1970s as
Irish Distillers reformulated all their brands.
Today there are only a couple of pure Irish
pot still whiskies remaining, but to track
them down is to taste history. Redbreast
(see p166) is the most widely known, but
Green Spot is also worth making room for,
though, unless you’re in Dublin, you may
struggle to find a bottle (see p165).
Pot stills in Ireland traditionally distilled a mash

of both malted and unmalted barley; this
produced the unique “pure pot still whiskey.”
Old Bushmills is the only distillery
in Ireland to have remained in
blends operation since the 19th century.
With only three major distilleries in the country, Ireland’s blends

demonstrate the variety of whiskies that these plants produce. Coupled
with the skill of the blenders, it all results in some of the world’s finest
blended whiskey, some of which has a high proportion of flavorful malt.
toasted almonds, hints of product in flux, and all this

Bushmills fine cocoa and finishing with may change in the future.
Distillery: Bushmills and Midleton
a warming peppery tickle. Clontarf Blend 40% ABV
Black Bush 40% ABV The standard blend is an
Old Bushmills is a single An elegant, mostly malt incredibly sweet, almost
malt distillery, so the grain blend, which benefits from toffeelike whiskey. It’s robust
whiskey that is blended with being aged in some very though, with hints of pot
their malt to produce brands juicy sherry wood. The still whiskey and some
like Blackbush, has always result is a stunning desert decent lingering chocolate
come from somewhere else. island whiskey and the notes toward the end.
In the past it was made in yardstick by which Irish Clontarf Reserve
the nearby Coleraine blends are measured. 40% ABV• This is quite
Distillery, but since the Oranges and sherry. a light whiskey and is
closure of that plant in the Exotic colors from almost overpowered
1970s, the grain has come Jerez dance around by the layers of
from Midleton. So, long the signature woody oak. However,
before the Good Friday Bushmills malt notes. without the body
Agreement, the two A glorious, mouth- of the classic blend,
traditions on the island— filling experience, and Clontarf is tooth-
Ulster malt and Republican one of the finest meltingly sweet.
grain—lived happily blends in the world.
together in a glass bottle.
Bushmills Original 40% ABV Crested Ten
A roughly 50/50 split of Clontarf
Bushmills malt and Midleton Distillery: Bushmills
grain creates a well-balanced and Midleton This is a spicy, pot still
easy-drinking blend. Sweet, Bushmills blend, available mostly
with the same kind of flavors When Clontarf Black Bush in Ireland. Launched
you get from fruit biscuits whiskey was launched in 1963, this was the
dunked in cocoa. in Ireland, it caused first Jameson product to be
Bushmills 1608 46% ABV consternation for two reasons. bottled solely by the distillery.
This new blend marks the Firstly there was the unusual Confusingly, the whiskies in
400th anniversary of the bottling—three stackable the blend are not 10 years
original license to distill. mini-bottles for the price of old, and have largely matured
Sweet, honeyed, and biscuity one—but more shocking still for seven to eight years.
fresh on the nose. The was that Clontarf whiskey Crested ten 40% ABV • A fairly
Bushmills DNA is very was charcoal mellowed. robust pot still flavor, with
evident: malted milk, but Recently, however, this a strong sherry influence,
layered with subtle vanilla whiskey was taken over by which comes from first-fill
and raisins, maturing into Castlebrands, so it is a Oloroso casks.
Whiskey drinking is a tradition
that harks back to the cottage
industry that distilling once
was throughout Ireland.
172 whiskey nations
mr. aeneas coffey and his patent still

In less than a generation, the Coffey still which completely perforated my thigh. I owed
completely changed the face of the whiskey my life to the rapid approach of the military
business. Blenders and not distillers had the party from which I had imprudently wandered
power and the money, and that’s how things a few hundred yards ….”
remained until the revival in the fortunes of Aeneas Coffey went on to be Inspector
single malt whiskies in the 1970s. The fact General of Excise in Ireland and, though
that an Irishman, Aeneas Coffey, he didn’t invent the continuous
was responsible for the rise of still, in 1830 he lodged a series
Scotch blends is not the only of patents that transformed
irony, for Coffey the distiller used the industry. As a government
to be an excise officer, and he publication of the time put
led a very colorful life. it, the Coffey still “is said to
In the year 1818 in Donegal, be the speediest and most
Aeneas Coffey was struggling to economical device for
control illegal distilling. This was preparing a highly concentrated
one of Ireland’s most lawless spirit in a single operation.”
counties, and Coffey narrowly The traditional Dublin pot
escaped death on a number of still distillers derided the
occasions. During a particularly patent still whiskey as “silent”
vicious encounter, his skull was (tasteless) spirit, so Aeneas
fractured and, in his own words, Coffey left Ireland for the more
the poteen makers “left my body A Coffey still is able to work open and welcoming Scottish
one mass of contusion and gave continuously rather than in and English markets. The rest,
me two bayonet wounds, one of batches, as with a pot still. as they say, is history.
whiskey drinkers have a hard character is evident from

Feckin’ Irish Whiskey time getting used to a locally the start, but it works well
Distillery: Cooley
produced peated blend, and against the crisp malt.
www.feckinwhiskey.com
this whiskey is hard to find. This a full-flavored ball
inishowen 40% ABV • This is of malt, with plenty of rich
“Feck” is a very Irish word. the only Irish blend where Christmas cake character.
It sounds rude, but is in fact peat openly flouts itself. A most welcome addition
no more than a mild oath in But the real joy here is the to the fold.
Ireland—widely used and dominance of some excellent
socially acceptable. This grain, which gives the blend
whiskey, then, is the product real spine and lets the turf Jameson
of one in a number of smoke and oak do their thing. Distillery: Midleton
independent bottlers using www.jamesonwhiskey.com
Cooley whiskey to target
the younger drinker. The Irishman 70 Jameson is the world’s
feckin’ irish whiskey 40% ABV Distillery: Bushmills
leading brand of Irish
A light, pleasant dram and Midleton whiskey, accounting for
with that signature Cooley nearly 75 percent of all Irish
sweetness. However, it This is a most interesting whiskey sold globally. In its
lacks the depth of similar blend, put together by home market of Ireland,
blends like Kilbeggan. Bernard Walsh, whose Jameson has grown over
company started life 40 percent during the past
with a hot Irish five years—but at a cost.
Inishowen whiskey mix. As the Jameson has succeeded at
Distillery: Cooley
name implies, The the expense of the quirkier
Irishman 70 contains Irish Distillers products such
Inishowen is Cooley’s 70 percent malt from as Hewitt’s, which has been
twist on the well-worn Bushmills, with the dropped, and Bushmills,
blended Scotch. The remainder made up which has been sold on.
logic is sound: people of Midleton pure pot Currently Jameson is a
like blended Scotch, still. There is no grain blend of roughly 50 percent
so let’s give them what whiskey here at all. medium-bodied pot still and
they want. However, Inishowen the irishman 70 50 percent grain whiskey,
it seems that Ireland’s Irish Whiskey 40% ABV • The pot still each of which has matured
ireland 173
in first-fill bourbon and barrels, in addition to the Jameson Gold Special

sherry wood for four to judicious use of sherry Reserve 40% abv
seven years. The whiskey wood, that gives this Jameson Gold is a premium
owes not a small degree blend its real character. Irish whiskey developed for
of its success to a whole This is a rich, nutty, the airport retail and duty-
heap of marketing. cinnamon-spicy pudding free market. This is the only
Jameson 40% ABV of a dram. The Irish Distillers whiskey in
There is some pot whiskey is very classy which virgin oak is used
still spiciness and a and the excellent for maturation.
pleasant sweetness wood gives the 12- Yeasty bread and spicy
here, but they fade year-old reserve a honey, with some obvious
quickly, leaving short wonderful sherry, vanilla and a peppery finish.
vanilla notes. There warm cocoa finish. Not the brightest star in the
are much finer Irish For all-around value, Jameson premium galaxy.
whiskies to be this is the best Irish It’s also expensive, making
explored—next you can buy. Jameson 12-year-old a much
time use this book Jameson 18-year-old smarter buy.
and live a little! Limited Reserve 40% abv
Jameson 12-year-old Jameson Jameson 18-year-old
Special Reserve 40% abv Standard is the master blender’s Kilbeggan
“Special Reserve” is Blend hand-picked selection Distillery: Cooley
the new Jameson buzz word, of the very best pot still and www.kilbegganwhiskey.com
and while some whiskies grain whiskies, aged in oak
might need that little bit of casks for at least 18 years. Kilbeggan is Cooley’s
marketing dazzle on the This whiskey is an excellent flagship blended whiskey and
label, this is one that example of the fine wood is named after the midlands
certainly does not. This policy employed at Midleton town where you’ll find
whiskey was Irish Distillers and the art of the blender. Locke’s Distillery. Master
first attempt at a premium The cracking nose is just distiller Noel Sweeney
brand and it started life as the start of the adventure started working on this blend
Jameson 1780, named after here. This exceptional blend in 1994 when the distillery
the year in which the Dublin is raisins and liquid velvet, was still mothballed. Early
distillery was founded. Now maple syrup on muffins, and examples reflected the
featuring an age statement, fudge melted over a choc-ice; limited range of whiskies he
this is still one of the best an astonishing achievement had to work with, but over
value-for-money Irish and a world class dram. the years this blend has
whiskies available. matured into a very fine
Typically 80 percent pot whiskey indeed.
still to 20 percent grain
whiskey, it is, nevertheless, Locke’s Kilbeggan Distillery gives
the use of first-fill bourbon its name to Cooley’s Kilbeggan
blended whiskey.
174 whiskey nations
john jameson & Son

As with most things to do with Irish Whiskey, the further back in
time you go, the mistier the details get. What we do know about
John Jameson is that he was a Scottish Presbyterian who came to
Ireland and took over an existing distillery in around 1780.
For the next 200 years— rise of blended Scotch

until 1988 in fact—there devastated the Irish whiskey
was always a descendant of industry, and, like every
John Jameson working for other distiller on the island,
the company in the same Jameson felt the pain.
offices at Bow Street in In the mid-1960s Jameson
Dublin. Otherwise not was one of the founding
much happened: each members of Irish Distillers,
generation of Jameson built with the Bow Street plant
on the success of the last, finally closing in 1971.
until JJ&S was recognized Then, in 1988, Irish
as the finest whiskey that Distillers was taken over by
money could buy. Jameson Tower at the the Pernod Ricard group,
The Dublin distillery was old distillery is now a and the Jameson brand was
viewing platform.
very proud of its pure pot singled out for greatness.
still whiskey and initially wasn’t too In 1996, sales of Jameson
concerned about the rise in popularity finally broke through the magic one
of blended Scotch. In 1890 Ireland had million cases a year barrier and the
about 90 percent of world whiskey whiskey joined the world’s top 100
exports, with the enormous Bow Street spirit brands. Today Jameson is
plant accounting for 10 percent of the synonymous with Irish Whiskey and is
country’s annual whiskey output. sold in over 120 markets. Although
But as outlined earlier, Prohibition now distilled in Midleton, the Old Bow
in the US, civil war in Ireland, and the Street Distillery where the whole story
began now houses a heritage center.
Jameson Distillery was situated in Dublin until
the early 1970s, when the Bow Street distillery
closed and operations were move to Midleton.
ireland 175
Kilbeggan, with a hint of good Midleton whiskey can

that malt being peated. get, from inception, through
locke’s blend 40% ABV maturation, to blending.
This is an incredibly delicate It is expensive, but then it
creature—water kills it is an exceptional drop.
stone dead, so be warned.
Neat Locke’s blend has
some charm, but it’s a pale Millars Special
reflection of what Cooley Reserve
can achieve with their malts Distillery: Cooley
and grainier blends.
Adam Millar & Company
was a firm of Dublin
Kilbeggan 15-year-old Michael Collins Blend whiskey bonders which sat
Distillery: Cooley
across the road from Powers
Kilbeggan 40% ABV Distillery. Cooley Distillery
Rich and unctuous, this A blend designed by bought them out in 1988.
predominantly grain blend is Cooley for American Millars has a 20 percent
a real mouth-filling wonder importers Sidney Frank. malt content, with both
of honey and oatmeal, with michael collins blend grain and malt having
that now very distinctive 40% ABV• The start is thin been aged in freshly
after taste of chocolate enough, but the emptied bourbon
covered coffee beans. whiskey opens up barrels.
Kilbeggan 15-Year-Old 40% ABV into vanilla and Millars is a whiskey
Kilbeggan’s older brother warm oak embers. with real character.
has a lot in common with his It’s a box of tricks—
younger sibling. There’s the firm, spicy, and
same unmistakable family Midleton unapologetically tasty.
DNA, but this guy has Very Rare The most underrated
hormones and he’s been Distillery: Midleton
blend in Ireland.
at the gym.
This muscular specimen One of the most
grips the tongue nicely expensive whiskies Paddy
before exploding into life. produced on a Distillery: Midleton
Now the honey (noticeable regular basis by Irish Millars
in the younger whiskey) is Distillers. Since 1984, Special It’s only in the past
more defined—it’s from pine no more than 2,500 Reserve half century or so that
trees and it’s on a toasted cases (and usually most Irish distilleries
bagel. The chocolate is fewer) of Midleton Very have taken to bottling their
still there, but it’s darker Rare have been released own whiskey. In the era of
and the coffee is Italian andannually. Older vintages the whiskey merchant,
impossibly tall, dark, and feature whiskey from the Power’s Gold label (white
handsome. Bravo! silent Midleton Distillery; labels were reserved for the
more recent bottlings are merchants) and the Cork
the work of the new Distilleries Company Old
Locke’s Blend Midleton plant. Irish Whiskey were the only
Distillery: Cooley
The whiskies in this two proprietary brands.
blend are between 12 Paddy Flaherty was the
John Locke was the man and 25 years old, and CDC’s celebrated sales
who put the Kilbeggan are matured exclusively representative, and during
Distillery on the map, in seasoned bourbon the 1920s and 30s he was
and his name adorned barrels. The nature of well known for his generosity,
the beautiful stone the selection process often buying the whole
crocks that used to for Midleton Very bar a round of drinks—
hold whiskey from this Rare means that each whiskey of course. Before
midlands distillery. vintage has its own long his Old Irish Whiskey
Today the Locke’s distinct character. was known to locals as
name is back on a Midleton Very Rare “Paddy Flaherty’s whiskey.”
whiskey—this time 2006 40% ABV Over time, CDC gradually
one produced by the Beeswax and melon, incorporated his name and
Cooley camp. This with that signature signature onto the label
blend has a higher cream soda softness. to authenticate it, until
malt content than Middleton This is exceptional eventually it became
its stable-mate Very Rare stuff, showing how known simply as Paddy.
176 whiskey nations
Most recently, Paddy’s The company was fond of usual assault of spice, honey,
more regal patronage innovation; they were the and hard custard, but this
came to light following first major Dublin firm to time it’s layered with soft
the auction by Christies embrace the Coffey still, wood tones and very
in Paris of a rare bottle albeit on a limited scale. soothing fruit jelly.
from the 1920s. Bought They moved into white
by Irish Distillers for spirits with Powers gin
$3,000 in 2003, it was and Powers vodka, but Tullamore Dew
once owned by more importantly they Distillery: Midleton
Edward VIII, Duke were first to try out in- www.tullamoredew.com
of Windsor, but house bottling. In an
was later sold by his era when glass bottles Locke’s in Kilbeggan
wife, Mrs. Simpson, were handmade and and Daly’s, up the road
after his death. expensive, they bottled in Tullamore, were the last
Today Paddy their own “Gold Label” Irish distilleries to close in
features slightly older whiskey. They even went the early 1950s. Both were
whiskies than are on to produce miniature modest rural operations
found in Jameson, bottles (known as that had clung on long after
and, although there is Paddy Baby Powers)—an most of their contemporaries
a similar wood policy, Old Irish innovation, and later had shut up shop. A micro-
Paddy does not use as Whiskey worldwide trend, that distillery has recently
much first-fill wood. The required an act of Parliament reopened in Kilbeggan
whiskey is made up of to allow it. (see p165), but its
roughly equal measures of Powers Gold Label close neighbor in Tullamore
pot still and grain whiskey. This is a superbly made hasn’t been so lucky.
Paddy 40 % ABV • This is a whiskey, with that distinctive A shopping mall now
malty and easy-going drink. high Irish pot still whiskey stands where the
It’s light and peppery, and that now only emanates from whiskey was once
best served short with a drop the Midleton Distillery. made, though there is
or two of water. This opens Powers is a rich, round, a museum in one of
up the spirit, yielding jasmine complex, and full-flavored the old warehouses.
and buttery fruitcake. But too drinking experience. In its time,
much water will drown its Selling more than six million Tullamore was
delicate nature. measures each year across a very innovative
Ireland, it is the country’s distillery. The
favorite whiskey. owners embraced
Powers Gulp, don’t sip. Slosh the continuous
it around in your mouth. still, and in the
Make silly gargling sounds 1950s Tullamore
The Powers were the other and swallow deeply. Now Dew became the
Dublin distilling dynasty. try and catch all the flavors; first Irish whiskey
Their distillery was situated there’s heather, all spice, to be reformulated Tullamore
on the south side of the cloves, camphor … now as a blend. The Dew
narrow Liffey River, facing take another gulp and distillery was sited
John Jameson & Son to try again. Brilliant! in the center of Ireland, but
the north. Powers 12-year-old despite poor transportation
John Power took over Special Reserve links to the costal ports, the
the company from his Powers 12-year-old company focused on the
father James in 1817 Reserve is a premium export market; to this day
and became a very edition of Ireland’s Tullamore Dew is still the
influential man in the favorite whiskey. This best-selling Irish whiskey in
capital. For a number reserve is chosen from Germany.
of years, he was High specially selected The company’s most
Sheriff of Dublin, and whiskies, aged from 12 famous brand, Tullamore
he was a close friend to 24 years. It’s the Dew, is still going strong,
of Daniel O’Connell, same formulation as though it has passed through
the Liberator. At the the regular Powers, numerous hands since the
age of 64, he became just older. distillery closed in 1954.
Sir John Power, and It’s amazing what Today it is owned by the
could look back on a a few more years in Irish food and drink
successful life having the wood will do to company C&C, which in
extended the distillery a whiskey. This is turn is owned by a group of
until it covered seven Powers regular Powers on UK venture capitalists. So
acres of the city. Gold Label steroids: there’s the the fate of this brand is far
ireland 177
from settled. All the whiskies Tullamore Dew Heritage 40% ABV
in the Tullamore Dew range One of the canal-side Wild Geese Whiskey
are distilled at the Midleton distillery warehouses is now Distillery: Cooley
Distillery in County Cork. home to a small museum www.wildgeese-irishwhiskey.com
Tullamore Dew 40% ABV and a shop, and this is where
By far the lightest Irish you’ll find this offering. Prior Yet another blend aimed at
whiskey on sale today—very to bottling, all the whiskies the ex-pat market, but this
grainy and lacking in much that make make up the one’s got a bit of bite to it.
depth. Best served over ice Heritage blend are married wild geese whiskey 40% ABV
with a sweet mixer like cola. for just under a year in This whiskey is sweet at the
Tullamore Dew 12 40% ABV second-fill bourbon wood. start, but somewhere in the
Sherry wood and spicy pot There are some very fine middle of the tongue it
still whiskey is very much to and very old pot still whiskies changes into quite a classy
the fore here in a very classy making themselves known monster. Here the grain
blend, aimed at the premium here. A beautifully balanced whiskey makes all the
airport retail market. This example of the blender’s running, but it’s good firm
whiskey has much more in art; sweet vanilla and sherry stuff, proving that Cooley
common with the Jameson drift on with the distant master distiller, Noel
family of premium whiskies scent of old leather car Sweeney, is right to have
than standard Tullamore Dew. seats. Very lovely. such faith in his grain.
poteen
Poteen is Ireland’s other national drink. It’s the Poteen changed too, but in minor ways. It was
outrageous outlaw—the bad boy everybody always made from whatever was cheap and at
loves. In movie terms, it is Colin Farrell to hand, so molasses replaced barley and copper
whiskey’s Pierce Brosnan. But how different hot-water tanks replaced tin pot stills.
things could have been. You see, until 1661 Despite 400 years of persecution by both
uisce beatha (whiskey) and uisce poitín Church and State, the outlaw thrived in song
(poteen) were one and the same, but, after that and folklore in the hills of Ireland until very
date, duty was paid on the former and not on recently. Then came prosperity. The Celtic Tiger
the latter, so making poteen illegal. swept all before it, bringing full employment
At the time, there wasn’t any difference and soaring house prices, and changing Ireland
between the taste of Parliament whiskey (uisce forever. The market for cheap spirits dried up
beatha) and the illegal stuff (uisce poitín), they and the skills that had been passed from
were both small-batch, colorless spirits distilled generation to generation started to die off.
from native grain and drunk hot from the still. Whether this is a passing phase, or whether
But as the centuries rolled past, the two spirits poteen has been fatally mauled by the Celtic
took on very different identities. Tiger, it’s too early to tell. If you see a product
During the 19th century, distilling in Ireland labeled “poteen” in an airport or a bar, it’s
moved from a cottage industry to a model of simply a white duty-paid Irish schnapps. By
Victorian laissez-faire enterprise. Whiskey was definition, poteen is illegal and can’t be sold.
no longer sold straight from the still; it was
matured in oak wood for at least three years, This poteen still from the early 20th century
which gave the spirit extra flavor and color. shows how basic the apparatus can be: an open
fire heats the pot, the spirit condenses in the pipe
and slowly dips into the standing barrel.
whiskey nations 179
england
and wales
If the history of alcohol production in the UK has taught us
anything about the English, it’s that for them patience is not a
virtue. Whiskey takes time to mature, and, while it has been
produced in England in the past, it has been only on a modest
scale, and the general tendency is toward far faster results.
W
hile the Scots and Irish were the English gave up trying to make
perfecting the art of maturation malt altogether, however, and simply
and integrating flavor into their conceded that the Scots did it far better.
national spirits, the scenario in England
was more divided. The nobility bought The Welsh Picture
in quality port, cognac, Irish whiskey, The same conclusion would seem to
and finally Scotch for their high tables; have been drawn in Wales, too. Although
while the majority of the population evidence exists that whiskey was made
settled on a foul-tasting grain spirit, in the province, it died away more than
flavored to hide its taste, and called gin. 100 years ago, perhaps to some degree
It was a variant of the sweeter Dutch as a result of the temperance movement.
spirit genever, but was a considerably The descendents of Welsh emmigrants—
poorer drink. In the 18th and 19th Evan Williams and Jack Daniel included
centuries, when gin’s popularity was at its —did make their mark across the
height and it was sold in “gin palaces” Atlantic in the US, however.
throughout the land, the spririt was often Over the last century, attempts to
made with grain unfit for ale production establish distilleries in England have
and flavored, not with juniper berries mostly been half-hearted. Land has
and botanicals as we know it today, but occasionally been secured and planning
in some instances with turpentine. permission sought, but there progress
There were a few whiskey distilleries has stalled. Typically, when a distillery
in England—Alfred Barnard (see p50) was finally established in Cornwall,
visited four in the 1880s—and they did it was immediately followed by plans
produce some single malt in pot stills, but for a clutch of others, though so far
most of the output found its way into only one other in England has
Scottish or Irish blends, or even went on actually opened—Norfolk’s St.
to make gin. It seems that eventually George’s Distillery.
Meanwhile, a very bright beacon
Penderyn uses ex-bourbon barrels for the shines in Wales, where whiskey is not
maturation of its spirit, which is then transferred only being produced at Penderyn,
into Madeira casks to finish the ageing process. but is also selling very successfully.
180 whiskey nations
Distilleries
Although there are only three whiskey distilleries in England and Wales,
they are not here simply for novelty value. Penderyn is the most
established, and is already producing a successful malt using innovative
techniques, while St. George’s is taking advantage of great local barley.
has created a whole new English and welsh

Penderyn way of making malt. DISTILLERIES
Penderyn, Near Aberdare, The wash is brought in
South Wales from local beer brewer,
www.welsh-whisky.co.uk
Brain’s, a break with
Open to visitors
recognized Scottish
production methods,
If there was a heavy dose and is distilled once in
of cynicism about Welsh a unique still that has a
whiskey being nothing pot at the bottom and
more than poor a tall recifying column
man’s Scotch, it was above. The whiskey
dispelled almost as comes off the still at
soon as Penderyn’s 91 percent ABV and
first malt appeared, is light and delicate.
some four years ago. The standard bottle
Dressed in modern commands a premium
and stylish packaging price, having been
that was light years matured in top quality
away from anything bourbon casks, before be a while before the results
coming out if finishing maturation of this increase will see their
Scotland, it tasted in Madeira wood. way into bottles.
other-worldly too. Penderyn Penderyn’s MD Penderyn Single Malt 46% ABV
Closer inspection Single Malt Stephen Davies says The nose offers over-ripe
reveals that the that, right from the raisins and candy pineapple.
Welsh have pulled off a start, the aim was to produce It’s zesty and fresh—very
masterstroke. By teaming a whiskey that wouldn’t just appealing. The palate is
up with world-renowned survive for its novelty value. winey, malty, and then
technical experts, Penderyn It’s working. The distillery is bitter fruits come through—
selling about 85,000 bottles tangerine perhaps. It’s rather
Pendryn’s unusual still has a in 15 countries. The prickly, fruity, and bitter in
rectifying column rising up from distillery has upped the finish but, surprisingly,
the pot-shaped base. production, though it will not unpleasantly so.
ENGLAND AND WALES 181
The Cornish
Cyder Farm
Penhallow, Cornwall
www.thecornishcyder
company.co.uk
They have been producing

whiskey in Cornwall for five
years now, so surely that
would make The Cyder
Farm, and not St. George’s,
the first English distillery for
more than 100 years? But
no. “We’re not English,
we’re Cornish,” says owner
David Healey. A fair point,
but what about the kudos of
St. George’s stills will soon be early days, all the signs are being “the first?” “We are.
producing a variety of whiskey that St. George’s is preparing We’re the first Cornish
styles, even including some to create a large range of distillery for 300 years.”
that are heavily peated. whiskey styles and won’t be The whiskey is made
shy when it comes to special with wash from St. Austell
finishes. Already the distillery Brewery and is distilled in
St. George’s has laid down casks of an apple brandy still. It
East Harling, Norfolk
heavily peated spirit and the tastes like it—or at least the
www.englishwhisky.co.uk
new make has many of the earliest distillations do—thin,
Open to the public
characteristics of the sort of shapeless, appley spirit. But
Laphroaig Iain Henderson the younger spirit—just one
St. George’s Distillery is was making some years ago. or two years old—has come
run by The English Whiskey The word from the distillery on in leaps and bounds and
Company, which stated its is that they have been is developing a pleasant
intentions in 2006 with experimenting with a triple personality with, yes, a green
the announcement that the distilled malt, and the plan is fruit character. The first
esteemed Scottish distiller eventually to pack the shop batches have already been
Iain Henderson would be with a range of malts, blends, bought up, so it’ll be a while
coming out of retirement to and liqueurs. before bottlings are available.
run England’s first licensed
distillery for more than 100 distilleries on the horizon
years. In 2007 the distillery
opened a visitor center and For some time now there have been plans for a distillery in
began laying down spirit. It’s the Lake District in northwest England, permission having
too early to know how the been granted to Andrew Currie, formerly marketing director
whiskey will turn out, but the at the Isle of Arran Distillery. But plans for The Barley Bridge
new make is impressive. Distillery, at Stavely, next to the fast-flowing Kent River, seem
Eastern England produces to have been put on hold—hopefully only temporarily.
some of the world’s finest There are also plans afoot for a new distillery in Northumbria,
barley—which helps— over on the northeast coast of England, but, as yet, they
and although some have are only in the early stages.
questioned whether Norfolk
water is suited to whiskey Kent River in the Lake District has
production, the distillery uses been identified as a good source
a deep water table and its of water for whiskeymaking.
mineral make up has given
considerable grounds for
optimism. Quality pot stills
and a climate favorable to
maturation also play a part.
Iain Henderson retired for
the third time in Fall 2007
and has been replaced by
David Fitt, a former brewer
with East Anglian beer giant
Greene King. Although it’s
whiskey nations 183
United States
When European immigrants crossed the Atlantic, they

carried with them the art of distilling from grain. Many of
them set up home in Maryland, Pennsylvania, and Virginia,
and began to make whiskey using rye instead of barley.
R
ye grew well, and German whiskey-producing states of the US,
settlers in southeastern both past and present, partly overlie
Pennsylvania had a heritage the same limestone shelf. Limestone
of distilling schnapps from rye. However, also produces excellent spring water,
as more settlers moved further west, they and it is claimed that the calcium content
found that the most prolific crop was of water that flows over limestone aids
maize, or Indian corn, and so they enzyme action during the fermentation
employed that in their whiskeymaking. stage of whiskey making.
By the late 18th century, Kentucky
boasted a well-established whiskey The father of bourbon
business based on corn, and Bourbon Evan Williams is often credited with
County was renowned for the quality of being the first commercial distiller in
its whiskey. Bourbon County is named Kentucky, establishing a distillery in the
after the French royal house of Bourbon, Louisville area in 1783, but a Baptist
and earned its sobriquet because the minister by the name of the Reverend
French gave “rebel” colonists significant Elijah Craig is widely considered the
aid during the War of Independence. “father of bourbon.” According to
Once the war was over, gratitude was whiskey folklore, he instigated the
expressed by christening many new practice of using charred barrels for
settlements and administrative areas maturation—a serendipitous discovery
with French names. When the then West following a fire—leading to a distinctive
Virginian county of Kentucky was style that helps to define bourbon.
subdivided in the 1780s, one new county The US soon developed a thriving
was named in honor of the Bourbons, commercial distilling industry, and in
while Kentucky itself became a fully 1838 Samuel Morewood noted in
fledged state in its own right in 1792. his book Inventions and Customs of
The limestone soil of Kentucky Ancient and Modern Nations in the
yields rich crops of corn, and it is no Manufacture and Use of Inebriating
coincidence that most of the principal Liquors the existence of 3,594 stills in
Pennsylvania, 2,000 in Kentucky, 591
Kentucky’s Maker’s Mark Distillery was established
in New York (mostly producing rum and
in 1805; while there are older distilleries in the US, brandy), 560 in Connecticut, 343 in
this one has remained on its original site the longest. Ohio, and 126 in Georgia. Around the
184 whiskey nations
DISTILLERIES
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3 million liters
(801,000 gallons) of
whiskey per year—approximately which have begun to regain favor.
one third of the combined output Additionally, bourbon has successfully
of Kentucky and Virginia. fought back against declining sales with
small-batch bourbon, as a significant
Prohibition number of consumers tire of
Despite the devastation wreaked by homogenized and mass-produced food
national Prohibition (see p210), and drink. Bottled from the vatting of a
Pennsylvania still had 42 working small number of particularly fine casks
distilleries at the outbreak of World of spirit, small-batch bourbons were
War II, but when Michter Distillery America’s answer to Scotland’s single
in Schaefferstown closed in 1988 the malt whiskies. Accompanying this trend
great tradition of Pennsylvanian has been a welcome, if modest, revival in
distilling came to an end. Kentucky, too, rye whiskies, which became all but extinct
has lost many distilleries, firstly due to in the decades following Prohibition.
Prohibition and then, in the succeeding
years, as Scotch became the favored Rediscovering Flavor
whisky in North America. During the Prohibition years, rye-
However, growth of interest in single flavored blends from Canada were
malt from the 1980s onward has also led smuggled into the US in massive
to a re-evaluation of America’s whiskies, quantities, and this may have caused
Jim Beam’s barrels
confusion among consumers regarding
are stacked upright, the true character of rye. It may also
in keeping with a have been the case that, as drinkers
modern, palletized came to prefer increasingly bland drinks,
storage system
(see p33). so rye, with its distinctive bittersweet
style, was just too characterful.
Today, Kentucky remains the
heartland of American whiskey
production, with all but three of the
country’s 13 full-scale, commercial
distilling operations based in the state.
However, many other states are home
to micro, or “craft,” distillers (see p205).
Their ranks have been swelled
significantly during the past few years,
bringing diversity and dynamism to
the American whiskey sector.
Just 40 to 50 barrels a day are
filled at Woodford Reserve, the
smallest distillery in Kentucky.
distilleries
The US has about a dozen major distilleries, most of which produce a
variety of whiskies. Some also distill for other whiskey brands, which are
rounded up on pp212–17; microdistilleries are covered on pp204–9.
In response to the its mash bill than many

rapid commercial bourbons, giving it a greater
and residential degree of sweetness.
growth of Virginia Gentleman
northern 90 Proof Small-Batch
Virginia, the Bourbon 45% ABV • This
distilling expression of Virginia
operation was Gentleman was launched
moved in 1988 to in 1998. It features oak and
the historic city corn on the nose, with oak,
A Smith Bowman moved to their of Fredericksburg in rye, and honey notes in the
new site in the 1980s, as northern Spotsylvania County, mouth. Spicy rye continues
Virginia grew more prosperous. 60 miles (100 km) from its in the drying finish.
original location. The semi-
derelict, former FMC The last distillery
A. Smith Bowman cellophane manufacturing in virginia
1 Bowman Drive,
plant was acquired for the
Fredericksburg, Virginia purpose, and subsequently Until the opening of Mount
www.asmithbowman.com
redeveloped into the new Vernon Distillery in Fairfax
Smith Bowman Distillery. County in 2006 (see p206),
The current A. Smith The distillery is best known the A. Smith Bowman plant
Bowman Distillery can be for its Virginia Gentleman was the only surviving
found on the outskirts of Straight Bourbon Whiskey, Virginian distillery, despite
Fredericksburg, in Virginia. and the plant has been the state’s long and
However, the original owned by the Sazarac distinguished whiskey-
operation was established Company of New Orleans making heritage. During the
by Abram Smith Bowman since its acquisition from the first half of the 19th century,
on Sunset Hills Farm, the Bowman family in 2003. for example, Virginia
Bowmans’ family property Sazarac also owns Buffalo produced more whiskey
in Fairfax County. That was Trace (see p188) in Kentucky. per annum than Kentucky.
in 1935, soon after the repeal Since the relocation to
The distilling equipment at
of Prohibition (see p211). Fredericksburg in 1988, the the Smith Bowman plant
first run of Virginia survives from the 1930s.
Gentleman has been
fermented and distilled at
the Buffalo Trace Distillery,
before a second, slow run
through a copper pot
doubler still takes place on
the Smith Bowman site. The
whiskey is also matured here
in charred, white oak barrels.
Virginia Gentleman 90 Proof Virginia Gentleman has a
Small Batch Bourbon higher percentage of corn in
186 whiskey nations
Bourbon and other american whiskey styles

Bourbon is the most famous style of American whiskey. It takes
its name from Bourbon County in Kentucky, although it is a popular
misconception that bourbon must legally be distilled in Kentucky.
In fact, bourbon can be There is no legal minimum

produced anywhere in the maturation period, but it
US if it complies with the cannot be termed “straight
requirements of component rye” unless it has been aged
grains and maturation for at least two years. Like
processes. First officially bourbon, rye is aged in
defined by law in 1964, new, charred oak casks.
Bourbon pouring into
bourbon is produced from a charcoal-filtering vats at Wheat Whiskey Made with
mash of not less than 51 the Jim Beam plant. more than 51 percent wheat
percent corn grain. The raw in its mashbill, wheat
spirit may not be distilled to more than whiskey is very rare, but the inclusion
80 percent alcohol by volume, and of wheat as one of the subsidiary
maturation must be for a minimum of grains in the mashbill—usually in
two years in new white oak barrels that place of rye—gives a sweetness and
have been charred in order to allow mellowness to whiskey.
the spirit to interact more easily with Corn Whiskey Legally, corn whiskey
the wood. has to be made from not less than 80
Tennessee Whiskey As with bourbon, percent corn and be matured in un-
Tennessee whiskey is a legally-defined, charred new barrels or used bourbon
distinct whiskey type, and is made from barrels. There is no specified minimum
a fermented mash containing at least ageing period, and it is associated
51 percent corn. It is then filtered with “moonshine whiskey” (see p206),
through a layer of maple charcoal which is usually sold fresh and new.
before being aged for a minimum of Blended Whiskey American blended
two years in new, charred oak barrels. whiskey comprises a proportion of rye
Rye Whiskey In the US rye whiskey has or bourbon whiskey mixed with “grain
to be made from a minimum of 51 neutral spirit,” or “light whiskey,”
percent rye, and distilled at no more which has been matured in new,
than 80 percent alcohol by volume. uncharred barrels or used oak barrels.
The small-scale Woodford Reserve Distillery The proportion of rye or bourbon
produces some of Kentucky’s most highly may be as little as 20 percent.
regarded bourbon whiskey.
US 187
from the 1940s, although The medium-length finish

distilling was taking place in is peppery and oaky.
the immediate vicinity in the Ridgemount Reserve 1792
1880s, and local distillers Tom Small-Batch Bourbon
Moore and Ben Mattingly 8-year-old 46.85% ABV
established the Tom Moore This comparatively delicate
Distillery in 1889. This was and complex bourbon boasts
one of the many casualties a soft nose with vanilla,
of Prohibition, but in 1934 caramel, leather, rye, corn,
the plant was acquired and spice notes. Oily and
and modernized by Harry initially sweet on the palate,
Teur. A decade later it was caramel and spicy rye
purchased by the Oscar develop along with a
Getz family, whose collection suggestion of oak. The
of Kentucky distilling finish is oaky, spicy, and
memorabilia was formerly quite long, with a sweet
displayed at the distillery but lingering hint of caramel.
now forms part of the Incidentally, the “1792”
Barton Distillery’s buildings date Oscar Getz Museum of in the name refers to the
from the 1940s, but distilling has Whiskey History, which year in which Kentucky
been carried out here for is located in Bardstown. became a state.
considerably longer. Barton’s whiskeys Ten High Kentucky
are characterized Straight Sour Mash
Virginia Gentleman Straight by being Bourbon 40% ABV
Bourbon 40% ABV • Aged for at comparatively Grainy and
least four years, Virginia youthful, dry, slightly oaky
Gentleman offers a light, and aromatic, on the nose, Ten
sweet, toasted nut aroma. and the standard High is notably
Spicy rye, sweet corn, honey, mashbill is made malty on the
caramel, and cocoa are up of 74 percent palate, almost
present on the smooth, corn, 16 percent like a young malt
well-balanced palate. The rye, and 10 percent Ridgemount Reserve Scotch, and has
finish is complex, with rye, malted barley. 1792 Small Batch notes of vanilla
malt and vanilla. Kentucky Bourbon and caramel.
Gentleman Kentucky The finish is
Straight Bourbon Whiskey quite short and drying.
Barton 40% ABV • Made with a higher Tom Moore Kentucky
1 Barton Road, Bardstown,
percentage of rye than most Straight Bourbon Whiskey
Kentucky 40004 Barton whiskies, Kentucky 40% ABV • Distinct notes of rye
www.bartonbrands.com
Gentleman offers caramel and herbs on the nose, along
and sweet oak aromas, and is with vanilla, oak, and cooked
Barton Brands Ltd. is a oily, full-bodied, spicy, and berries. Medium-bodied, the
distilling subsidiary of the fruity in the mouth. Rye, palate is a blend of sugary
international Constellation fruits, vanilla, and cocoa sweetness and spicy rye
Brands Inc. and is situated figure in an assertive finish. bitterness. Toffee and
at Bardstown in Nelson Kentucky Tavern Kentucky ginger dominate the finish.
County. Bardstown lies Straight Bourbon Whiskey Very Old Barton Kentucky
in the true heartland of 4-year-old 40% ABV • Assertive Straight Bourbon Whiskey
bourbon country, and and oaky on the nose, with 6-year-old 40% ABV
once boasted more than apples and honey. Spices, At a modest six years
20 distilleries. Today, the oak, more apples, and a of age, this is comparatively
town hosts a week-long note of rye on the palate. old for a Barton whiskey,
annual Kentucky hence its name. The
Bourbon Festival nose is rich, syrupy and
every September. spicy, with a prickle of
Barton has what is salt. Big-bodied in the
probably the lowest mouth, it is fruity and
profile of all the spicy, with spices
working distilleries and ginger in the
in Kentucky, and drying finish.
has no visitor
facilities. The Very Old
present buildings Barton Kentucky
date principally Straight Bourbon
188 whiskey nations
closed in 1979, after The Early Times mashbill

Bernheim which production of Old is made up of 79 percent
See Heaven Hill Forester bourbon was corn, 11 percent rye, and
switched to the Early 10 percent malted barley,
Times Distillery. Today, while Old Forrester is made
Boston Early Times Kentucky with around 72 percent
See Jim Beam Whisky and Old corn; the remainder of the
Forester Kentucky mashbill comprises 18
Straight Bourbon percent rye and 10 percent
Brown-Forman Whisky are the malted barley.
850 Dixie Highway
principal output of Early Times Kentucky Whisky
Louisville, Kentucky that plant, and over 3 years-old 40% ABV
www.brown-
Brown-Forman Quite light on the nose, with
forman.com favors the Scottish nuts and spices. The palate
spelling of “whisky.” offers more nuts and spices,
The Brown-Forman It also favors the together with honey and
Corporation, which “Brown-Forman” butterscotch notes.
dates back to 1870, Early Times name to the previous Old Forester Kentucky
also owns the Kentucky “Early Times.” Straight Bourbon Whisky
Jack Daniel’s and Whisky The Early Times over 8 years-old 50% ABV
Woodford Reserve name lingers on, Much more complex
distilleries. The company’s however, in one of the than Early Times, with
Louisville facility was distillery’s whiskies—which pronounced floral notes,
established in 1935, when is a good thing as the brand vanilla, spice, fruit,
it was known as the Old name has been around since chocolate, and menthol on
Kentucky Distillery. Brown- the 1860s and stems from the nose. Old Forester is
Forman acquired it in 1940 an early settlement situated notably fuller and fruitier
and subsequently rebuilt near Bardstown. Until the than Early Times in the
the plant, ultimately re- Prohibition period, Early mouth, where rye and
christening it the Early Times Times was a blended whiskey peaches vie with fudge,
distillery. Brown-Forman —that is a mixture of straight nutmeg, and oak. The finish
also owned the Old Forester whiskey and neutral spirit— offers more rye, toffee,
Distillery in Louisville. That but was subsequently liquorice, and drying oak.
produced as a straight whiskey.
Generally, it cannot be
classified as a bourbon simply Buffalo Trace
because some of the spirit Sazerac Company Inc.,
is filled into used barrels, 1001 Wilkinson Boulevard,
whereas bourbon legislation Frankfort, Kentucky
insists that all spirit must www.buffalotrace.com
be matured in new charred Open to visitors
oak (see p186). Early Times
is therefore marketed as Buffalo Trace Distillery is
a “Straight Kentucky located at a crossing point
Whisky.” The method of where, in times past,
In the fermenter (this one is at the maturation—using spirit herds of migrating
Brown-Forman plant) yeast turns aged in used barrels for buffalo forded the
sugars from the grain into alcohol. a minimum of three Kentucky River. The
years blended with 5 to trail these animals
DISTILLERY ROW 7-year-old whiskey from followed was known
new barrels—makes as the Great Buffalo
The Brown-Forman Distillery for a lighter-bodied, Trace. A settlement
is situated in the area of less woody spirit. grew up here,
Louisville, Kentucky, known This version of starting in 1775,
as “Distillery Row,” where Early Times whisky and the first formal
half a dozen distilleries was introduced in distillery was
once operated. Today, only 1981 in order to established in 1857
the Brown-Forman plant compete with the by the Blanton
and Bernheim (see p192) increasingly popular family. From 1886
survive, but a century ago light-bodied it was owned by the
Louisville was awash with Canadian whiskies, “bourbon aristocrat”
whiskey and home to more but some “straight” Old Forester Edmund Haynes
than 20 distilleries. Early Times is sold Straight Taylor Jr, who
in overseas markets. Bourbon christened the plant
US 189
Buffalo & Ginger

Ingredients: 2 measures
(50 ml) of Buffalo Trace
8 measures (200 ml) of
dry ginger ale
Method: Pour the Buffalo

Trace and dry ginger over
about 6 ice cubes in a tall
(Collins or high ball) glass
and stir. Garnish with a
wedge of lime, squeezed
into the drink.
Buffalo Trace Kentucky

Buffalo Trace is known for its According to the company, Straight Bourbon 45% ABV
sweet flavored bourbon, due to this leads to a more Aged for a minimum of nine
high corn levels in the mash bill. flavorsome whiskey. years, Buffalo Trace has an
Buffalo Trace offers the aroma of gum, vanilla, mint,
OFC—initials which broadest range of aged and molasses. Sweet, fruity
stand for Old-Fashioned whiskey (from four to 23 and notably spicy on the
Copper Distillery. years) in the US, and is palate, with emerging brown
Another Kentucky the only US distillery sugar and oak. Water
gentleman, Colonel using five recipes for releases intensive, fruity
Albert Bacon Blanton, whiskey products— notes. The finish is long,
rose from office clerk namely two straight spicy, and comparatively dry,
in the 1890s to bourbons, one barley with developing vanilla.
become distillery whiskey, one rye
manager and part whiskey, and one
owner with George wheated bourbon. Four Roses
T. Stagg. He retired in As well as the 1224 Bonds Mill Road
1952 after 55 years popular Buffalo Trace Lawrenceburg, Kentucky
of service to the Kentucky Straight www.fourroses.us
company, and is Bourbon, the distillery Visitor center at bottling
commemorated by a also produces several and warehousing facility:
statue at the distillery Buffalo Trace other brands, 624 Lotus Road, HWY 1604,
and Blanton’s Single Straight including Ancient Cox’s Creek, Kentucky
Barrel Bourbon. Bourbon Age (see pp212),
This was the first which was in fact Built to a striking Spanish-
commercially available single the name of this distillery Mission style design in 1910,
barrel bourbon, and was until 1999. Since 2002, Four Roses Distillery is
introduced in 1984 by then the distillery has also situated near the town
master distiller Elmer T. Lee, produced spirit for of Lawrenceburg
who now also has a whiskey the Van Winkle and takes its name
named in his honor. brand of whiskeys from the brand
The distillery has an annual (see p217).
capacity of 12 million
gallons (54 million liters),
and the house style is notably
sweet, due to the inclusion of
a high percentage of corn in
the mashbill. Heavily
charred barrels are used for
maturation, and the spirit is
chill-filtered before bottling
rather than employing the
more usual method of
charcoal filtering.
The Four Roses brand

has been around since
the late 19th century.
190 whiskey nations
based Seagram organization proprietary yeast strains are

purchased Frankfort, used, and the combination
principally to acquire the of two mash bills and five
Four Roses brand. However, yeasts gives 10 different
for many years they bourbon flavors, which
used the Four Roses are usually blended to
name for a blended create one bottling
whiskey in the US style. Four Roses
market, rather than is also the only
a straight bourbon. distillery that
In February 2002, uses single-
the Tokyo-based story rack
Kirin Brewery warehouses
Company bought to minimize
These barrels at Four Roses are the Four Roses variations in
vatted (combined with other brand trademark, temperature.
barrels), prior to bottling. along with the This promotes
production, a more even
trademarked by Paul Jones bottling, and maturation process.
Jr. in 1888. Jones was born warehousing Four Roses Kentucky
in Georgia, and legend has it facilities, naming Straight Bourbon
that his fiancée wore a their new Four Roses Single Whiskey 40% ABV
corsage of four red roses acquisition Four Barrel Bourbon The original Four
to indicate acceptance of his Roses Distillery Roses offering,
marriage proposal, hence the LLC. Two years later Yellow Label, is aged for
name given to his bourbon. they added a visitor center five to six years and is a
In 1922, the Paul Jones and shop. Kirin also light-bodied bourbon, with
Company purchased reintroduced honey, burned sugar, and
the Frankfort Distilling Four Roses into the US wood varnish on the nose.
Company, one of only in the as a straight Water releases orange and
six distilleries granted bourbon. cream notes. Fresh fruits,
permission to Four Roses is spice, and oak characterize
operate through unique in having the palate, while ginger nuts
Prohibition in used the same and drying oak figure in
order to produce grain source for the medium finish.
bourbon for 45 years, and Four Roses Small Batch
medicinal two mash bills Bourbon 45% ABV • The most
purposes. are in daily recent addition to the Four
Four Roses production. One Roses range, Small Batch is
became the best- mashbill contains mild and refined on the nose,
selling bourbon much more rye (35 with nutmeg and restrained
in the US in the percent) than any honey. Water releases
years following other bourbon, delicate, toasty, floral
Prohibition, and in Four Roses Small giving a spicy, full- notes. Bold and rich on
1943 the Canadian- Batch Bourbon bodied taste. Five the well-balanced palate,
with spices, fruit, and
honey flavors. The finish
is long and insinuating, with
developing notes of vanilla.
Four Roses Single Barrel
Bourbon 43% ABV • Single
Barrel was launched in 2004,
and offers a rich, complex
nose, with malt, fruits, spices,
and fudge. Long and mellow,
with vanilla, oak, and a hint
of menthol. The finish is
spicy and decidedly mellow.
George Dickel Distillery was built

in the late 1950s, close to the site
of the original Cascade Distillery.
US 191
George Dickel maturation

1950 Cascade Hollow Road When new white oak barrels are charred, compounds in the
Normandy, Tennessee wood change and become “active,” lending sweetness and
Open to visitors color to the spirit, while the char itself removes “off notes.”
Along with Jack Daniel’s, During maturation, usually in racked warehouses where
George Dickel is the only barrels are stacked up to 24 high, the spirit experiences
surviving licensed, full-scale significant seasonal changes of temperature, with barrels high
distillery in the state of up in the warehouses subject to most heat, and therefore
Tennessee. Tennessee maturing faster than those lower down. Overall, the
whiskey has enjoyed its own comparatively high levels of heat and humidity experienced
legal designation since 1941, in American warehouses mean that the spirit matures earlier
and is characterized by the than it would in countries such as Scotland and Ireland.
Lincoln County Process of
Barrels at a low level in the
charcoal mellowing, which
storehouse mature more slowly
sees the new spirit, or “white than those higher up.
dog,” filtered through a deep
bed of sugar maple charcoal
for several days before being
filled into barrels. This
process removes some of the
heavier fusel oils, giving a
cleaner spirit.
George Dickel Distillery is
much smaller in scale than
its neighbor Jack Daniel’s,
located some 10 miles (16 km)
away, and lies 6 miles
(10 km) northeast of the
town of Tullahoma, between
Nashville and Chattanooga. production to the Ancient George Dickel No 12 45% ABV
The distillery uses the Age Distillery—now known The nose is aromatic,
Scottish “whisky” spelling as Buffalo Trace (see p188). with fruit, fresh leather,
because founder George A. In 1958, Schenley decided butterscotch, a whiff of
Dickel insisted that the spirit that George Dickel should charcoal, and vanilla too.
he made was as smooth as return to its roots, and a new The palate is also rich and
the finest Scotch. distillery was built three- complex, with rye, chocolate,
Dickel was German quarters of a mile fruit, and vanilla. The finish
by birth, and was (about 1 km) from the offers vanilla toffee, and
operating as a old Cascade Hollow drying oak.
merchant in location. Through a
Nashville when he series of mergers
discovered and acquisitions, the Heaven hill
Cascade Hollow Dickel Distillery Bernheim Distillery,
and decided to and brand name 1701 West Breckinridge Street
make whiskey subsequently came Louisville, Kentucky
there. The firm into the possession www.heaven-hill.com
of George A of Diageo. In Heaven Hill Distilleries Bourbon
Dickel & Co. was character, George Heritage Center, 1311 Gilkey Run
registered in Bust of George Dickel Dickel whiskies Road, Bardstown, Kentucky
1870, and the tend to be lighter,
Cascade Distillery was more aromatic and less For most of its existence
founded seven years later. oily than those produced by Heaven Hill has focused
1910 saw the onset of neighbor Jack Daniel’s. on its flagship bourbon
Prohibition in Tennessee, George Dickel No 8 40% ABV labels, Evan Williams and
and the Dickel operation Sweet on the nose, with Elijah Craig (see pp213–14).
moved to Kentucky, where aromas of chocolate, cocoa, However, it is also now a
distilling took place for a and vanilla. The palate of major supplier of own-label
time at the Stitzel Weller this whisky is quite sweet whiskey to other customers.
plant in Louisville. In 1937, and well rounded, with fresh The company’s speciality
George A Dickel & Co. was fruit and vanilla notes. is older, higher proof
acquired by Schenley The short finish features bourbons, which are
Distiling Co., who moved spices and charcoal. traditional in character,
192 whiskey nations
heaven hill and the bernheim distillery

A Heaven Hill Distillery had been built in 1890, but the present
Heaven Hill company was established in 1935, soon after the repeal
of Prohibition, by five Shapira brothers. They constructed a distillery
close to the Loretto road, just south of Bardstown.
Descendants of the Shapira advanced distilleries in the States.

brothers control the firm to It was constructed on the site of
this day, and Heaven Hill is the old Astor and Belmont
America’s largest independent distilleries (respectively home
producer of distilled spirits to Henry Clay Bourbon and
to remain in family ownership. the Old Charter and IW
It is also the last family-owned Harper brands), which the
distillery in Kentucky. Guinness subsidiary United
The history of whiskey- Distillers had purchased and
making features many subsequently demolished.
distillery fires, but the most United Distillers also closed
spectacular and destructive in Bernheim the Stitzel-Weller Distillery
recent times occurred on Original in Shively and concentrated
November 7, 1996, when the Heaven production of Old Fitzgerald,
Hill Distillery and warehouses were Old Weller, and Rebel Yell in the
almost completely destroyed by fire, new Bernheim plant.
and over 75,000 gallons (340,000 liters) In 1997 Guinness merged with
of maturing spirit was lost. GrandMet to form the giant Diageo
While future plans were being organization. Bourbon was not a
considered, production capacity was global priority for Diageo, whose
provided for Heaven Hill by Brown- US distilling interests were soon
Forman and Jim Beam, and eventually concentrated around the George
it was decided that rather than rebuild Dickel brand of Tennessee whiskey
on the old site, Diageo’s Bernheim (see p191), along with a number of
Distillery in Louisville would be bourbons that were made under
purchased instead. contract. This paved the way for
Bernheim was built in 1992, and Heaven Hill’s acquisition of the
is one of the most technologically Bernheim Distillery in 1999.
A stylish new heritage
center now stands close
to the site of the old
Heaven Hill Distillery.
US 193
full-bodied, and complex.

Heaven Hill is also the only
national producer of corn
whiskies left, including both
aged brands, such as Mellow
Corn, and un-aged bottlings
such as Georgia Moon.
While fermenting, mashing,
and distilling the Heaven
Hill range occurs at
Bernheim, ageing, bottling,
and shipping still take place
in Bardstown. The Bourbon
Heritage Center is also there,
among Heaven Hill’s mint on the palate. The Heaven Hill racks its barrels
“rickhouses,” where the finish is good and long, three high on 16 floors;
world’s second-largest stock drying, and nicely spicy. summer temperatures reach
of bourbon (as many as Georgia Moon 40% ABV 120°F (48.9°C) at the top.
600,000 barrels) matures. Bottled in a mason jar, and
Alongside Bernheim with a label that promises Mellow Corn Kentucky
Original Straight—the only that the contents have spent Straight Corn Whiskey 50% ABV
straight wheat whiskey in the less than 30 days maturing, Wood varnish and vanilla,
US market—the distillery Georgia Moon harks back to along with floral and herbal
also produce a couple of the old moonshining days. notes, are what greet you
interesting rye whiskies. Consequently, drinkers on the nose. The palate
Rittenhouse Rye, once should not expect is big and oily and fruity,
associated with the rye something sophisticated with toffee apples. More
whiskeymaking heartland of from this one! After an fruit, cinder toffee, and an
Pennsylvania, now survives initial tang of sour liquor understated trace of
in Kentucky, its mashbill on the nose, the smell vanilla complete the
comprising 51 percent rye, of sweet corn follows. finish. Young and
37 percent corn, and 12 The palate suggests boisterous.
percent barley. cabbage water and Pikesville Supreme
Complementing plums, plus Straight Rye Whiskey
Rittenhouse’s “Pennsylvania developing sweeter 4 year-old 40% ABV
style,” a “Maryland,” or “candy corn” notes. The nose presents
“Potomac style” of rye also The finish is bubble gum, fruit, and
survives in the shape of extremely short. wood varnish, while
Pikesville Supreme Straight. Heaven Hill Old Style on the palate there
Among the Heaven Hill Bourbon 4 year-old is more bubble gum,
bourbons is Very Special 40% AbV • This is spice, oak, and an
Old Fitzgerald—a complex an excellent and Rittenhouse overt vanilla theme.
and well-balanced spirit, competitively priced Rye Whiskey The finish mixes
made with some wheat in “entry level” bourbon, more lingering vanilla
the mashbill rather than with a nose of oranges and with ripe oranges.
rye. Another in the range corn bread, a sweet, oily Rittenhouse Rye Whiskey
is Henry McKenna mouth-feel, with vanilla 50% ABV • The nose is notably
Single Barrel, which uses and corn featuring on the spicy, with nuts and oranges.
a family recipe brought well-balanced palate. On the palate, powerful
by McKenna from Henry McKenna Single spices and oak meet lemon
Ireland in 1837 and first Barrel Kentucky Straight and then a much sweeter
used in the US when he Bourbon Whiskey note of lavender and violet.
settled in Fairfield, 10 year-old 50% ABV As for the finish: it is a long,
Kentucky and This single barrel bitter rye classic.
founded a distillery whiskey boasts an Very Special Old Fitzgerald
in 1855. interesting blend Kentucky Straight Bourbon
Bernheim Original of citrus fruits, Whiskey 12-year-old 45% ABV
Straight Wheat Whiskey charcoal, vanilla, and The nose is rich, fruity, and
45% ABv • Bernheim caramel on the nose. leathery, while the palate
exhibits toast and The contrasts exhibits sweet and fruity
butter on the spicy continue in the palate, notes that are balanced by
nose, with freshly- Heaven Hill where spices and spices and oak. The finish is
sawn wood, toffee, Old Style charred oak vie with long and drying, with vanilla
vanilla and a hint of Bourbon mint and honey. fading to oak.
194 whiskey nations
around 50 percent In fact, of Tennessee’s

destined for Europe. 95 counties, spirits may
Seventy-six warehouses legally be distilled only
contain 42 million in Moore, Coffee,
gallons (190 and Lincoln
million liters) of counties.
maturing spirit, Jack Daniel’s
and seven on-site Old No. 7 43% AbV
bottling lines are Jack Daniel’s
in operation. presents a
The Jack Daniel’s powerful nose
mashbill is high of vanilla, smoke,
on corn, which and liquorice. On
constitutes 80 the palate it offers
percent of the Gentleman Jack oily cough mixture
There are 76 barrel houses at total; the remainder and treacle, with a
Jack Daniel’s, holding 42 million comprises 12 percent rye final kick of maple syrup and
gallons (190 million liters) of spirit. and eight percent barley burnt wood in the surprisingly
malt. Like George Dickel, long finish. Not particularly
Jack Daniel’s uses a version complex, but muscular and
Jack Daniel’s of the Lincoln County decidedly singular.
280 Lynchburg Road
Process of charcoal Gentleman Jack 40% AbV
Lynchburg, Tennessee mellowing prior to being Gentleman Jack is
www.jackdaniels.com
filled into barrels. characterized by being
Open to visitors
Every year, hundreds charcoal-mellowed twice:
of thousands of visitors once before barreling and
The Jack Daniel’s flock to Lynchburg in again after ageing for about
enterprise operates on a pilgrimage to Jack four years. The result is a
grand scale, with a Daniel’s—the man nose that is considerably
distillery output of and the whiskey. more mellow, muted, and
some 20 million Ironically, while they fruity than that of Old
gallons (90 million are able to purchase No. 7. The palate yields
liters) of alcohol per any number of more fruit, along with
annum. Ten million varied souvenirs caramel, liquorice, vanilla,
cases of whiskey are emblazoned with the and a whiff of smoke.
exported annually Jack Daniels’ name, Jack Daniel’s Single Barrel
to 150 different they cannot buy the Tennessee Whiskey 47% ABV
countries, with whiskey. Lynchburg Introduced in 1997, Single
is situated in Moore Barrel is charming and
Jack Daniel’s County, which is smooth on the nose, with
Old No. 7 officially “dry.” notes of peach, vanilla, nuts,
and oak. The comparatively
Jack Daniel’s was able dry palate offers depth,
to resume distilling in richness, and elegance, with
Tennessee in 1938. oily corn, liquorice, malt,
and oak. Malt, oak, and
a touch of rye spice are
present in the lengthy finish.
Jim Beam
Clermont and Boston Distilleries
Clermont Distillery, 149 Happy
Hollow Road, Clermont, Kentucky
www.jimbeam.com
Open to visitors
The principal Jim Beam

Distillery is located at
Clermont, in Bullit County,
25 miles (40 km) south of
Louisville in Kentucky, and
not far from the “bourbon
capital” of Bardstown.
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the jack daniel’s story

Jack Daniel’s has become a truly iconic brand, known all over the
world. It is America’s best-selling whiskey, and is famous as the rock
star’s drink of choice. Often consumed with cola, “J.D.” is one of
the few brown spirits consistently popular with younger drinkers.
The story of Jack Daniel’s begins St. Louis in 1910, when Tennessee
with the birth of Jasper Newton went “dry.” Jack died shortly after,
Daniel in Lincoln County, in 1911, following a bizarre
Tennessee in 1846. Legend has accident in which he kicked a
it that “Jack” did not get along stubborn safe door in a temper
with his stepmother, and at and got a foot infection, which
the age of six left home. He led first to amputation, then to
eventually came to live with local gangrene, and finally to death.
farmer and Lutheran lay preacher The distillery continued to
Dan Call. Call ran a whiskey operate in St. Louis until 1919,
still, and one of his slaves, when National Prohibition
Nearest Green, taught young intervened. It was not until 1938
Jack the art of distilling. Jack Daniel’s statue that Motlow and his sons were
When pressure from Call’s now resides in the granted permission to
visitors center.
congregation led him to recommence distilling at the
choose religion over whiskeymaking, Old Time Distillery. They developed
he sold the still to Jack, who was aged the company extremely successfully
just 14 at the time. Despite his youth, in the difficult years after the repeal
Jack Daniel clearly already possessed of Prohibition, and in 1956 sold the
the sharp business brain that was to see enterprise to the Brown-Forman
him succeed so well in the future. He Distillery Corporation for $18 million.
soon moved the still, settling on a site
Sugar maple wood
next to Cave Spring, in an area close to is burned at the
Lynchburg known as The Hollow. Jack distillery to create
the charcoal for
was drawn to the area by the spring’s filtering the whiskey.
abundant supply of pure limestone
water, and he christened the new plant
the Jack Daniel Old Time Distillery.
In 1887 Jack was joined in the
business by his nephew, Lem Motlow,
and it was Lem who was responsible
for moving the distilling operation to
196 whiskey nations
the jim beam story

The origins of Jim Beam date back to the 18th century, when
German-born farmer and miller Jacob Boehm traveled west into
Bourbon County from Virginia, carrying with him his copper pot
still. There he settled down and created a small-scale distillery.
Jacob is reputed to have Clear Springs. Jim Beam

sold his first barrel of established the present
whiskey for cash in 1795. Clermont Distillery close
He subsequently moved to Clear Springs soon
his distilling operation to after the repeal of
Washington County when Prohibition at the end
he inherited land there of 1933, despite being
from his father-in-law. Jim Beam and associates 70 years old at the time.
Jacob had two sons, at the Clermont Distillery Jim died in 1947, five
in Kentucky.
named John and David, years after the Jim Beam
and during David Beam’s time at the name began to be used on the bottle
helm, the distillery adopted the “Old labels. The family connection carries
Tub Distillery” name. In 1854 David’s on to this day through Fred Noe,
son, who was also named David, great‑grandson of Jim and a seventh
moved the venture to Nelson County, generation Beam family member.
where the Clear Springs Distillery was Fred’s father was the late, legendary
established close to a railroad. Booker Noe, a larger-than-life figure
Jim Beam himself was Jacob who is acknowledged as one of the
Boehm’s great-grandson, and was true greats of bourbon distilling, and
christened James Beauregard Beam. the man responsible for developing
He entered the family firm in 1880 small-batch bourbon.
at the age of 16, and trade prospered
In contrast to the company’s industrial-scale
for the distillery in the years before distilleries, the Jim Beam American Outpost recalls
Prohibition forced the closure of the older traditions of distilling at a leisurely pace.
US 197
The Jim Beam American were closed down, and

Outpost is a major tourist their whiskies are now
attraction, though the distilled in Jim Beam’s
Clermont Distillery itself distilleries at Clermont
is staunchly industrial in and Boston.
appearance and scale. The Jim Beam house
Jim Beam is the style is characterized
best-selling bourbon by high proportions
brand in the world, of rye and corn in the
and the James B mash bill; the rest is
Beam Distilling made up of malted
Company has barley. In addition to Nosing is vital to monitor
belonged to Fortune the White and Black consistency in any distillery,
Brands Inc. (formerly labels, and the and Jim Beam is no exception.
American Brands) Kentucky Straight
since1967. It was Bourbon and Straight Jim Beam Black Label
formerly in family Jim Beam Rye, the distillery also Kentucky Straight Bourbon
ownership for around White label produces a range of Whiskey 8 year-old 45% ABV
150 years before being specialist whiskies, Greater depth than White
sold in 1945 to Harry Blum such as Baker’s Kentucky, Label, with more complex
of Chicago, previously a Booker’s Kentucky, Basil fruit and vanilla notes, along
partner in the company for Hayden’s, Knob Creek, Old with liquorice, vanilla,
several years. Crow, Old Grand-Dad, and sweet rye.
Illinois-based Fortune and Old Taylor. Jim Beam’s Choice
Brands actually operates Information about these Kentucky Straight Bourbon
two Jim Beam distilleries: at bourbons can all be Whiskey 5 year-old 40% ABV
Clermont and in nearby found in the Brands In the style of Tennessee
Boston, where the distillery section (pp212–17). whiskey, this is charcoal-
dates from 1953. Together, Jim Beam White Label filtered, after maturing.
the two plants have an annual Kentucky Straight It is soft and silky,
capacity of 9 million gallons Bourbon Whiskey with caramel notes.
(nearly 40 million liters). 4 year-old 40% ABV Jim Beam Straight Rye
All of the spirit bottled as Vanilla and delicate Whiskey 40% ABV
Booker’s (see p213) is distilled floral notes on the Light, perfumed, and
at the Boston Distillery and nose. Initially sweet, aromatic on the nose,
Jim Beam White Label is a with restrained with lemon and mint.
50/50 mix of bourbon from vanilla, then drier, Oily in the mouth,
Clermont and Boston. oaky notes develop, with soft fruits, honey,
In 1987, American Brands fading into furniture and rye on the palate;
acquired Frankfort-based polish and soft malt Jim Beam the finish is drying
National Distillers, and in the finish. Black Label and spicy.
with it the Old Crow,
Old Taylor and Old Jim Beam’s
Grand-Dad distilleries Clermont Distillery
and brands (see p216). is industrial in
The three distilleries look and scale.
198 whiskey nations
Maker’s Mark
3350 Burks Springs Road
Loretto, Kentucky
www.makersmark.com
Open to visitors
Maker’s Mark Distillery

is located on the banks of
Hardin’s Creek, near Loretto,
in Marion County, and was
established in 1805 as a
distillery and grist mill. It is
the oldest working distillery
on its original site in the US,
and in 1980 was declared a grandson, T.W. Samuels, Every aspect of Maker’s Mark,
National Historic Landmark. built a commercial distillery right down to these spirits safes,
Exactly two centuries at Deatsville, Kentucky, and was duplicated to enlarge the
earlier, Robert Samuels had the “secret” family mash distillery in 2001.
migrated to Kentucky, where recipe was subsequently
he farmed and distilled handed down from one bourbons of the time,
whiskey. In 1844 Robert’s generation of distillers and resulted in a
to the next. comparatively soft and
Maker’s mark In 1943, the old gentle spirit, which
bourbon manhattan Deatsville distillery was becomes very mellow
sold, and a decade later as it matures. Samuels
Ingredients: Bill Samuels Sr. perfected the recipe,
2 measures (50 ml) of purchased the not in a distillery
Maker’s Mark Bourbon dilapidated Star but in the family
1 measure (25 ml) of Hill Farm and the kitchen, baking
sweet vermouth Happy Hollow bread and
2 dashes of Distillery near experimenting with
Angostura bitters Loretto. He was different grains.
½ (about 10 ml) of eager to create a The Scottish
maraschino cherry syrup particularly smooth spelling of “whisky”
(from the jar) and refined bourbon, has been employed
and using the Maker’s Mark since the outset in
Method:: put all ingredients example of the Old Straight Bourbon recognition of the
into a mixing glass filled Fitzgerald brand, family’s Scottish
with ice; stir thoroughly for he developed a new recipe ancestry. It is Bill Samuels’
about 30 seconds. Strain based on locally grown corn wife, Marge, who is credited
into a cocktail glass, and and malted barley, coupled with naming the new
garnish with a twist of with red winter wheat, rather whiskey. As a collector of
orange (squeezed) and a than the traditional rye. This pewter, she was accustomed
maraschino cherry. had the effect of reducing to searching for “the mark of
the “burn” left by many the maker.” She was also a
The original barrel warehouses at

Maker’s Mark Hardin’s Creek site
are about 100 years old.
US 199
collector of bottles of
cognac, many of TURKEY collins
which were sealed Ingredients:
with colorful wax, and 2 measures (50 ml)
the hand-dipped red of Wild Turkey
wax seal was soon 1 measure (25 ml)
adopted for Maker’s of lemon juice
Mark bottles. 1 measure (25 ml)
In 1981 Maker’s of sugar syrup
Mark passed out of 5 measures (125 ml)
family ownership to of soda water
Hiram Walker &
Sons, and ultimately Method:
came into the hands Mix the ingredients in a
of Allied Domecq. shaker, then pour into a
Since 2005, however, Wild Turkey Distillery has been tall (Collins) glass over ice.
Maker’s Mark has been owned since 1980 by the French Garnish with a maraschino
owned by Fortune Brands drinks company Pernod Ricard. cherry, an orange slice,
Inc., who also own Jim Beam. and a lemon slice.
Due to the growing
popularity of the whiskey, Wild Turkey
the Hardin’s Creek site was US Highway 62 East
a leading ambassador for the
expanded in 2000–2001, Lawrenceburg, Kentucky bourbon industry all over the
duplicating, in exact detail, www.wildturkeybourbon.com
world. James C. Russell, to
the distillery as it had been Open to visitors
give him his full name, has
restored in the 1960s. This worked at Wild Turkey since
doubled production capacity. Wild Turkey’s Boulevard 1954, and both his father
Maker’s Mark Kentucky Distillery is situated on Wild and grandfather were also
Straight Bourbon Whisky Turkey Hill, above the distillers. Fittlingly, Jimmy’s
45% ABV • A subtle, complex, Kentucky River in Anderson son Eddie has followed in the
clean nose, with vanilla and County. The plant was first family tradition too.
spice, a delicate floral note established in 1905 by three Wild Turkey uses the
of roses, plus lime and cocoa Ripy brothers, whose family smallest percentage of corn
beans. Medium in body, had been making whiskey in of any Kentucky bourbon,
Maker’s Mark offers a palate the nearby distilling center with greater quantities of rye
of fresh fruit, spices, of Tyrone since 1869. and malt to achieve a fuller
eucalyptus, and ginger cake. Today, Wild Turkey is bodied and generally more
The finish features more created under the watchful flavorsome whiskey. The
spices, fresh oak with a hint eye of legendary master same mashbill and yeast
of smoke, and a final flash of distiller Jimmy Russell—one strain is used for the entire
peach cheesecake. A delicate of the great characters of Wild Turkey range.
and circumspect bourbon. the bourbon world, and now The spirit is distilled at
a comparatively low proof
The Wild Turkey Name (56–57.5 percent) because
Jimmy Russell likens making
The Wild Turkey brand was conceived in 1940, when Thomas great whiskey to making
McCarthy, president of Austin Nichols (a specialist wine and great soup: “If you cook
spirits business), chose a quantity of 101 proof (50.5 percent it longer at a lower
ABV) straight bourbon from his company temperature, you retain the
stocks to take along on a wild turkey best flavors.” An additional
shooting weekend. For many influence on the character of
years what is now the Wild Turkey the matured spirit is that the
Distillery was J.T.S. Brown Distillery, “white dog” (the new make,
and produced Wild Turkey
clear spirit) is filled into
heavily-charred barrels. The
bourbon under contract. Then,
heavy charring contributes
in 1971, it was acquired by significantly to Wild Turkey’s
Austin Nichols Distilling Co., signature flavor.
and the name was changed. The most readily available
expression of Wild Turkey
The Wild Turkey brand has in most markets, “101,”
been owned by Pernod is notable for possessing a
Ricard since 1980. remarkably soft yet rich
aroma for such a high proof
200 whiskey nations
10 years is a wonderful stage gradually darkening and

of maturity for a bourbon. becoming a little treacly.
His son Eddie agrees, and Wild Turkey Rare Breed
indeed it was Eddie who 54.2% ABV• As with “101,”
suggested offering the both the aroma and flavor
10 year-old expression. are notably smooth for
Wild Turkey Kentucky a high-strength bourbon.
Straight Bourbon Whiskey The complex nose
80 proof 40% ABV • The is initially slightly
soft, sweet nose hints at assertive, with nuts,
Wild Turkey’s spirits safe, where corn, while on the palate oranges, spices, and
the stillsman can test the flowing this is a very traditional floral notes. Honey,
spirit and make the “cut.” whiskey, nicely balancing oranges, vanilla,
sweet caramel and tobacco, mint, and
whiskey—no doubt due in vanilla flavors. molasses make for
part to its eight years of Wild Turkey Kentucky a complex palate
maturation. Wild Turkey Straight Bourbon to match the nose.
“80” was introduced to the Whiskey 101 proof The finish is long
range in 1974, and, 8-year-old 50.5% ABV and nutty, with spicy
according to Jimmy Russell, The nose offers and peppery rye.
this expression is ideal served caramel, vanilla, Wild Turkey Russell’s
on the rocks, and perfect for fresh, soft fruits, and a Reserve 10 year-old
drinkers who enjoy their touch of spice, while 50.5% ABV • The nose
bourbon with a mixer. in the mouth this is a boasts toffee, vanilla,
The Kentucky Spirit is a decidedly full-bodied, Wild Turkey oak, rye, and a hint
single barrel whiskey, with rich, and robust 8 Year-Old of worn leather, while
each barrel being personally bourbon, with more Bourbon the massive body gives
selected by Jimmy Russell, vanilla, fresh fruit, spicy and citric notes
who sets out to choose and spice, as well as brown in the mouth, with traces of
examples that are fuller sugar and honey. Notes of cumin and almonds.
bodied than normal, with oak develop in the long and Wild Turkey Kentucky
rich vanilla flavors and a hint powerful, yet smooth finish. Straight Rye 50.5% ABV • Wild
of sweetness. Jimmy Wild Turkey Kentucky Spirit Turkey’s offering of a
maintains that 50.5 percent 50.5% ABV • The nose is fresh straight rye has a pleasingly
(101 proof) is the optimum and attractive, with oranges firm nose that’s crammed
bottling strength for Wild and notes of rye, while on with fruit. The body is full
Turkey whiskey. the palate it is complex, with and rich, while the well
Launched in 1991, Rare almonds, honey, toffee, more balanced palate offers
Breed comprises whiskies oranges, and a hint of intense spices and ripe fruit.
aged from six to 12 years. leather. The finish is long The finish is profoundly
Russell himself believes that and initially quite sweet, spicy and nutty.
Woodford’s Pepper and Crow

Woodford Reserve traces its origins back to 1797, when Elijah Pepper
moved from Virginia to Versailles, where he made corn whiskey in a
small distillery behind the county courthouse. In 1812 he moved his
operation to the present site on Glenn’s Creek in order to take
advantage of the excellent supply of pure limestone water.
Two years after Elijah Pepper’s death in 1831, his son
Oscar hired Scottish-born chemist James Crow to work at the
“Old Pepper Distillery” (later christened the “Oscar Pepper
Distillery”). The bourbon industry owes much to the work
of Crow. He recognized the importance of consistency in
whiskeymaking, perfected the “sour-mash” process, and
discovered the benefits of maturing spirit in charred oak
barrels. Crow worked as head distiller for 29 years.
The whiskey produced on the stills at

Woodford Reserve became a favorite of
writers Mark Twain and Walt Whitman, and
of the 7th US president, Andrew Jackson.
US 201
The Mint Julep

Woodford Reserve was
introduced to the UK in
1998, and soon became
a favorite with cocktail
makers. Here’s the
distillery’s recipe for
a classic Mint Julep.
Ingredients:
2 measures (50 ml)
of Woodford Reserve
2 heaped teaspoons
of caster sugar
10–12 mint leaves
Woodford Reserve is the new Then in 1941 Brown-Forman
incarnation of a distillery that had bought the site and more Method: into a large glass,
lay silent since the early 1970s. than 25,000 barrels of high pour the sugar, a splash of
quality bourbon from the Woodford, and the mint
Labrott & Graham for an leaves. Muddle the mint
Woodford Reserve extremely modest $75,000. (using the end of a rolling
7855 McCracken Pike
However, in the postwar pin or similar object) to
Versailles, Kentucky years bourbon sales went release the oils. Fill the
www.woodfordreserve.com
into decline, and many glass with crushed ice
Open to visitors
distilleries closed down. The and pour in the rest of the
small distillery by Glenn’s bourbon. Stir briskly and
Woodford Reserve is the Creek was no exception, and top up the glass with more
smallest distillery operating in 1972 it was sold to a crushed ice if necessary.
in Kentucky, and is unique company called Freeman Garnish with a couple
in using a triple distillation Hockensmith, who of large sprigs of mint.
method. This employs three proceeded to make the car
copper pot stills—built in fuel substitute gasohol in the
Scotland by the renowned distillery for a short period. consistency, the Woodford
Speyside coppersmiths When that venture failed, spirit is blended with a
Forsyth’s. Woodford is the the distillery lay silent for quantity of Old Forrester
only bourbon distillery to use the next 23 years. Straight Bourbon from
exclusively copper pot stills However, when the Brown-Forman’s Louisville
in the distillation process, the distillery had been sold to Distillery (see p188); the
last having been the Old Hockensmith, it was with the resultant whiskey is bottled
Crow distillery prior to its proviso that Brown-Forman at six to seven years of age.
closure during Prohibition. could buy it back at a future The mashbill comprises
Woodford Reserve is date. So when, in 1994, 72 percent corn, 18 percent
operated by the Louisville- Hockensmith died—and rye, and 12 percent
based Brown-Forman with interest in small-batch malted barley.
Distillery Corporation, bourbon rising—Brown- Woodford Reserve
which also owns Jack Forman bought back the Distiller’s Select Kentucky
Daniel’s. The plant stands on semi-derelict site, and Straight Bourbon 45.2% ABV
the banks of Glenn’s Creek, went on to spend $10.5 Elegant yet robust on the
near the late 19th-century million restoring it. nose, perfumed, with milk
town of Versailles, in the After almost a chocolate raisins,
heart of Kentucky’s quarter century, the dried fruit, burned
bluegrass thoroughbred Labrott & Graham sugar, ginger, and
racehorse breeding country. distillery reopened, a little saddle soap.
The distillery was in the and in 2003 the Complex palate:
Pepper family from the late present Woodford fragrant, fruity
18th century until the 1870s, Reserve name with raspberries,
when it was acquired by was adopted for camomile, and
Frankfort banker James the distillery ginger. The finish
Graham and French wine and its whiskey. displays lingering
merchant Leopold Labrot. Between 40 and vanilla notes and
Apart from during the hiatus 50 barrels a day peppery oak.
of the Prohibition years, they are filled here, Woodford’s Distiller’s Cognac-like until
ran the plant until 1940. and to ensure Select Bourbon the vanilla kicks in.
The fertile fields of Kentucky
form the heartland of American
whiskey production, providing
the grain for distilling as well as
the pure spring water that is so
essential to whiskey making.
St. George Spirits was established
in 1982 after its founder Jörg Rupf
Microdistilleries gave up studying law at the

University of California.
A microdistillery, or craft distillery, is defined as one that manufactures fewer

than 500 barrels of spirit per year. A decade ago there were only a handful,
while today there are more than 60, producing a wide range of spirits.
chocolate, and pepper

Anchor Distilling evident in the lengthy finish. Charbay
Company Old Portrero Single Malt 4001 Spring Mountain Road
1705 Mariposa Street Straight Rye Whiskey 62.6% ABV Napa Valley, St. Helena, California
San Francisco, California Aged for a little longer— www.charbay.com
www.anchorbrewing.com
three years in this case—in
new, charred oak barrels, this Father Miles and son Marko
Fritz Maytag is one of the “19th‑century style” whiskey, Karakasevic are 12th and
pioneers of the American to quote Maytag again, 13th-generation winemakers
micro drinks movement. boasts nuts, buttery vanilla, and distillers. Among their
As the man who’s been sweet oak, and pepper on spirits is Charbay Double
largely responsible for the the nose. Complex in the Barrel Hop-Flavored
revival of craft brewing in mouth—oily, sweet and Whiskey, which is double
the US, he has been running spicy, with caramel, oak, distilled using European
San Francisco’s historic and spicy rye notes in malted barley in the mash,
Anchor Steam Brewery since the finish. and hops for aromatic effect.
1965. He also makes York This is true small-batch
Creek wine and port at his distilling, with just 24 barrels
vineyard, which straddles the Belmont Farms being filled from the first
famous Napa and Sonoma of Virginia, Inc. batch of spirit, which is
wine-producing areas just to 13490 Cedar Run Road
offered at barrel strength.
the north of San Francisco. Culpeper, Virginia Charbay double-barrel
In 1994 Maytag added a www.virginiamoonshine.com release One 64% ABV • Honey,
small distillery to his brewery vanilla, oranges, oak, and
on San Francisco’s Portrero For the past 15 years, smoky spice on the nose;
Hill. His aim in doing this corn grown on Belmont citrus spice and honey on
has been to “re-create the Farm has been used to palate; long, vanilla and
original whiskey of America.” make Virginia Lightning dried fruit finish.
And by that, he means Corn Whiskey
making small batches of (50 percent ABV).
spirit in traditional pot stills, The mash is cooked to Clear Creek
using 100 percent rye malt. an old family recipe, 2389 NW Wilson Street
Old Portrero Single Malt and is then distilled Portland, Oregon
Whiskey 62.1% ABV • Aged for in a 2,000-gallon www.clearcreek
one year only in new, lightly- (9,000-liter) copper distillery.com
toasted oak barrels, Old still that dates back to
Portrero Single Malt is the 1930s. Finally, Steve McCarthy
described by Maytag as it passes through a estabished Clear
having an “18th‑century “doubler” (“analyzer Creek Distillery more
style.” It is floral and nutty still” in the UK) to than 20 years ago
on the nose, with vanilla and increase its strength Clear Creek’s because he wanted
spice. Oily and smooth on and remove impurities McCarthy’s to find the best use
the palate, with mint, honey, before being bottled. Single Malt for fruit from the
US 205
McCarthy family’s orchard. oak wood being offers a well-balanced

During his travels in Europe, suspended in the spirit blend of sweet and dry
he became acquainted with as it ages in the barrel. flavors, with notes of
a number of traditional The effect serves to smoke, nuts, spices,
European spirits, among speed up maturation and vanilla.
them an eau de vie (spirit) dramatically, and the
made from Williams pears. whiskey is usually
He has now been distilling aged for just four Edgefield
for 10 years, and his whiskey months prior to 2126 S.W. Halsey Street
is made from peat-malted bottling. Copper Fox Troutdale, Oregon
barley bought in from moved to its present www.mcmenamins.com
Scotland. In fact, he claims new-build site at
that “the whiskey would be a Sperryville in 2005, Located in a former
single malt Scotch if [only] and 2006 saw the dry store for root
Oregon were Scotland.” release of the first vegetables, Edgefield
McCarthy’s Oregon Single single malt using distillery is operated
Malt Whiskey is close in style Wasmund’s malting Wasmund’s by the McMenamin’s
to Lagavulin single malt and maturing Single Malt hotel and pub group.
from Islay (see p104). It is innovations. The distillery has
initially matured in ex-sherry Wasmund’s Single Malt been in production since
casks for two or three years, Whisky 48% ABV • A nose of February 1998, producing
then for six to 12 months in honey, vanilla, leather, and not only whiskey, but also
barrels made from air-dried watermelon. The palate brandy and gin. According
Oregon oak.
McCarthy’s oregon single The micro phenomenon
malt whiskey 40% ABV
Kippery and spicy on the During the 1980s and 90s, Scotch whisky producers developed
nose—with a hint of sulfur, a growing market for single malts, and it wasn’t long before
peat, and vanilla—Oregon is the large, commercial US distillers began to emulate them by
big-bodied and oily. The developing small-batch bourbons. Similarly, micro, or “craft,”
meaty palate is smoky-sweet, distillers saw the opportunity to create notably characterful
with dry oak, malt, spice, and individual whiskies on a small scale.
and salt in the lengthy finish. Not bound by convention, and with flexibility due to the size
of their operations, they could experiment with ingredients
Copper Fox and processes. With a blend of historical reverence and modern
science, they have taken up the baton of the rye revival and
9 River Lane also championed single malts—one of the most interesting
Sperryville, Virginia
developments on the scene. Hop-flavored and fruit-flavored
www.copperfox.biz
whiskies have appeared on the market, along with “legal
In 2000 Rick Wasmund paid moonshine” and something very close to an Islay single malt.
a visit to Scotland with the The phenomenon began in California and Oregon, often on
idea of starting up his own the back of microbrewing enterprises, but has since spread
microdistillery back in out to embrace a number of states, including Kansas,
Virginia on his return. He Massachusetts, New York, and Ohio—states that either have
spent six weeks working at very little heritage of distilling or lost their distilleries many
Bowmore Distillery on Islay years ago. It seems likely that the trend will continue, too, as
(see p99), then purchased the desire to seek out all things quirky, niche, and hand-crafted
an existing Virginia distillery continues unabated among discerning drinkers.
to launch Copper Fox
Whiskey in the spring of Clear Creek distills with peat-malted
2003. Wasmund malts barley barley from Scotland to create an
Islay-like American whiskey.
in the traditional Scottish
manner, on a malting floor,
and then dries it, not using
peat, but with the infusion
of apple, cherry, and oak
wood. It is distilled twice in
one-barrel batches.
Wasmund has developed
a unique “chip and barrel
ageing process,” which
consists of bags of charred
chunks of apple, cherry, and
206 whiskey nations
to McMenamin’s, the copper

and stainless-steel still they moonshine
use “resembles a hybrid of a
The term “moonshine” refers to illicitly-distilled liquor, usually
19th-century diving suit and
made from corn and sugar. The sooner the spirit was removed
an oversized coffee urn.” Its
design was the work of from its place of production, the safer for all concerned, so the
Holstein in Germany, the luxury of a period of maturation in oak barrels was eschewed
world’s oldest surviving in favor of filling it into mason jars while it was fresh and
manufacturer of spirit stills. clear—hence the nickname “white lightning.” The southern
Hogshead Whiskey 46% ABV states formed the principal moonshine territory, and the craft
Banana and malt are on the continues to this day. The drink enjoys a rebellious reputation,
sweet, floral nose, with sweet and to buy a jar is to defy authority—though today it is
vanilla and caramel notes on possible to purchase “legal moonshine,” such as Catdaddy
the palate. Barley, honey, and (see opposite), Georgia Moon (see p193), Mountain Moonshine
oak come into play in the (see p209) and Southern Moon Corn Liquor (see below). Despite
medium-length finish. this niche market for lawful moonshine, the clichéd image
persists of “good ole boys” loading up pickups and “running
High Plains Inc. shine” on the dirt back roads of Tennessee and Georgia.
An illicit still is seized
1807 South 2nd Street by officers of the law
Leavenworth, Kansas during Prohibition.
www.highplainsinc.com
Seth Fox, a former process

engineer and amateur distiller,
converted the profitable
electronics company he
started in 1984 into High
Plains in 2004, producing
the first liquor to be distilled
legally in Kansas since the
state banned its manufacture
in 1880. Fox is the seventh
generation of a family with
a history of illicit distilling in
the hills of North Carolina.
“I’m not the first to do it in Leopold Bros Mount Vernon
my family,” he says, “but I 523 South Main Street Mount Vernon Estate, 3200
am the first to do it legally.” Ann Arbor, Michigan Mount Vernon Memorial Highway,
Having specialized in www.leopoldbros.com Virginia; the distillery is on
vodka, sold under the Most Route 235, 3 miles (5 km) south of
Wanted brand, Fox Leopold Bros is a family Mount Vernon
introduced Most Wanted operated small-batch www.mountvernon.org
Kansas Bourbon Whiskey distillery located in an old Open to visitors
and Most Wanted Pioneer renovated brake factory. Its
Whiskey in 2006. vodka, gin, and flavored The first president of the
whiskies are produced in a United States, George
hand-hammered pot still. Washington, was also a
Isaiah Morgan Peach Whiskey 40% ABV whiskeymaker, and built a
45 Winery Lane The juice of Rocky distillery on his Mount
Summersville, West Virginia Mountain peaches are Vernon estate in 1798. With
www.kirkwood-wine.com
blended into this whiskey, five stills producing some
resulting in a peachy-sweet 11,000 gallons (50,000 liters)
Isaiah Morgan is notable for spirit, with underlying oak, of whiskey per year, it was
being the first legal distillery vanilla and raisin notes. one of America’s largest and
in southwest Virginia. It was Blackberry Whiskey 40% ABV most profitable distilleries.
established by Rodney Blackberry juice is added to As a military man,
Facemire in 2002, and now whiskey and racked into ex- Washington had firmly
produces Isaiah Morgan Rye bourbon barrels for up to a advocated the supply of
Whiskey and Southern year. The sweetness of the spirits to his troops to combat
Moon Corn Liquor. Both blackberries is immediately the effects of inhospitable
whiskies are bottled white apparent, but oak and weather and fatigue.
and unaged in the best vanilla also develop, giving “The benefits arising from
moonshining traditions. the whiskey complexity. the moderate use of strong
US 207
St. George Spirits

2601 Monarch Street
Almeda, California
www.stgeorge
spirits.com
St. George Spirits was

established by Jörg Rupf
in 1982 to distil eau de vie.
Brought up in the Black
Forest region of Germany,
Rupf moved to the US
in 1978 to study law at the
University of California.
At the Mount Vernon Estate, a rye mashbill. This was He gave up a legal career,
re-creation has been made of matured at Mount Vernon however, in favor of craft
George Washington’s distillery. and is now on sale in distilling. As one of the
commemorative bottlings, pioneers of the American
liquor have been experienced along with miniatures of the microdistilling movement,
in all armies and are not to “new” Mount Vernon spirit. he is a widely respected
be disputed,” he wrote. figure and something of
In 1939 a still believed to a mentor. His distillery
have come from Washington’s Piedmont employs two Holstein
original distillery was Distillers Inc. copper pot stills and uses
captured by revenue officers. 203 East Murphy St.
a percentage of heavily
It bore the legend, “Made in Madison, North Carolina roasted barley and some that
Bristol, England, 1783,” and www.catdaddymoonshine.com
was discovered during a raid the American
on an illicit whiskeymaking Piedmont is the only licensed Whiskey Trail
venture run by an African- distillery in North Carolina,
American family who were and its Catdaddy Moonshine Mount Vernon is the only
descendents of slaves on celebrates the state’s heritage operating 18th-century-style
Washington’s estate. of illicit distilling. It was in distillery in North America.
Excavation and restoration 2005 that ex-New Yorker It functions as a national
work began on the distillery Joe Michalek established distilling museum and is
site during 2000, and Piedmont Distillers—the also the gateway to the
reproduction 18th-century first legal distillery in the American Whiskey Trail,
stills were subsequently Carolinas since the days which encompasses historic
installed in the reconstructed before Prohibition kicked in. distilling-related sites in
buildings, which opened to “According to the lore of New York, Pennsylvania,
the public in September 2006. moonshine, only the best Virginia, Kentucky, and
The stills produce 135º proof moonshine earns the right to Tennessee. The Mount
(67.5 percent ABV) spirit be called the Catdaddy,” says Vernon project has been
to the recipe developed Michalek. The whiskey is financially supported by
by James Anderson, distilled in a copper pot The Distilled Spirits Council
Washington’s still and is made in very of the United States, which
Scottish-born farm small batches that yield represents the interests of
manager, who was just 1,500 bottles each many of the country’s
responsible for the year. It is a flavored distillers. Its website
construction and moonshine, which (www.discus.org/trail) has
operation of the uses secret ingredients information about the trail.
distillery, along with that, according to Mount Vernon estate
his son, John. The Joe Michalek, are
mashbill consists of unique to his
60 percent rye, 35 moonshine whiskey.
percent corn and 5 Catdaddy Carolina
percent malted barley. moonshine 40% abv
In 2003 a number Triple-distilled
of distillers combined from corn, Catdaddy
to produce a batch of Moonshine is a sweet
whiskey in a replica and spicy whiskey,
18th-century still Catdaddy with notes of vanilla
using Washington’s Moonshine and cinnamon.
208 whiskey nations
with fresh fruits and a hint of

smoke. The palate is delicate Templeton Rye
and fruity, with a citric twist, Templeton Rye Spirits
while sweeter, malty, and new- Templeton, Iowa
mown grass notes develop in www.templetonrye.com
the slightly smoky finish.
Scott Bush’s Templeton Rye
Single Barrel Rye Whiskey
Stranahan’s came on to the market in
Colorado Whiskey 2006, and is distilled in a
2405 Blake Street
308-gallon (1,400-liter)
Denver, Colorado copper pot still before being
www.stranahans.com
aged in new, charred oak
barrels. Bush boasts his rye is
The handsome copper still made Stranahan’s distilling made to a “Prohibition-era
by Holstein is kept in sparkling enterprise had an unlikely recipe,” and the story of the
condition at St. George Spirits. beginning, when volunteer origins of Templeton Rye is
firefighter Jess Graber tackled an extraordinary one.
is smoked over alder and a neighbor’s barn fire. The In the years of the Great
beech wood. Most of the neighbor, George Stranahan, Depression, a group of
single malt is matured in was a drinks connoisseur, farmers in the Templeton
ex-bourbon barrels for and the result of their area started to distil a rye
three to five years, though subsequent friendship was whiskey illicitly in order to
a proportion is put into the establishment in March help boost their faltering
French oak and former 2004 of the first licensed agricultural incomes.
port casks. distillery in Colorado. Templeton Rye earned a
St. George Spirits Single Malt Three barrels of whiskey widespread reputation for
Whiskey 43% ABV • The nose are produced each week, being a high quality spirit,
offers fresh floral notes, with using a four-barley wash and, during Prohibition, it
fruit, nuts, coffee, and vanilla. from the neighboring apparantly came to the
Quite delicate on the palate Flying Dog Brewery. The attention of cohorts of
—sweet, nutty, and fruity, spirit is filled into new, Al Capone. Capone’s gang
with a hint of menthol and charred American oak began bootlegging hundreds
cocoa. Vanilla and chocolate barrels, and is aged for of kegs of Templeton Rye
notes figure in the finish, with a minimum of two years. per month, distributing it to
the merest wisp of smoke. Each batch bottled speakeasies throughout New
comprises the contents York and Chicago, and as far
of between two and west as Denver. The story
Saint James Spirits six barrels. goes that Capone even
5220 Fourth Street Unit 17 Stranahan’s Colorado orchestrated a mission to
Irwindale, Califorina Whiskey 47% ABV • The nose have a case of Templeton
www.saintjamesspirits.com
is quite bourbon-like, with Rye smuggled to him while
notes of caramel, liquorice, incarcerated in Alcatraz.
In 1995 Jim Busuttil founded spice, and oak. The palate is Scott Bush grew up in
Saint James Spirits to produce slightly oily, big and sweet, Western, Iowa, where his
a range of premium liquors. with honey and spices. The great-grandfather had an
Busuttil’s family has a long comparatively short finish illicit still on his farm and his
history of wine production, is quite oaky. grandfather was one of the
and Jim learnt his distilling originators of Templeton
skills in Germany and Rye. This pedigree proved
Switzerland. He also useful when Bush decided to
manages to combine running recreate the spirit on a legal
the distillery with his career basis, and enabled him to
as a teacher. Since 1997 he discover the original recipe
has been making a single from a number of “old-
malt whiskey called timers” who were reluctant
Peregrine Rock. It is to discuss the subject with
produced from peated anyone else.
Scottish barley and matured Templeton Rye Single Barrel
in bourbon casks for a Rye Whiskey 40% Abv • The
minimum of three years. revived Templeton Rye is
Peregrine Rock California bright, crisp, and mildly
Pure Single Malt Whiskey sweet. The finish is smooth,
40% ABV • Floral on the nose, Stranahan’s Colorado whiskey with a long, warming finish.
US 209
smooth” and works as “a to remove the harsher flavors

Triple Eight perfect complement to sweet and “change the complexion
5&7 Bartlett Farm Road
vermouth.” Government of the whiskey from white
Nantucket, Massachusetts Warning Rye (46 percent lightning to smooth sipping,”
www.ciscobrewers.com
ABV)—made from a mash as Payton Fireman puts it.
of 100 percent rye—is
Dean and Melissa Long described as “grassy and soft
started up their Nantucket —perfect sipping rye.” Woodstone Creek
Winery in 1981, and added 3641 Newton Avenue
the Cisco Brewery in 1995. Cincinnati, Ohio
Two years later they West Virginia
www.woodstonecreek.com
established the region’s first Distilling
microdistillery, which takes 1425 Saratoga Ave, Suite C
Woodstone Creek is Ohio’s
its name from its water Morgantown, West Virginia first microdistillery. It is
source—well number 888. www.mountainmoonshine.com
owned and run by husband-
The first single malt whiskey and-wife team Don and
was distilled in 2000 and is Lawyer and entrepreneur Linda Outterson. In 2001
called Notch Whiskey— Payton Fireman and his the couple added a pot
“Notch” because it is not friend Bo McDaniel run still operation to their urban
Scotch, but is produced in West Virginia Distilling. winery, producing vodka,
the Scottish style. George They are dedicated to rum, and three whiskies.
McClements—former producing legal moonshine The whiskies (employing
distilling consultant to in the best traditions of West the Scottish spelling)
Bowmore distillery on Virginia, which boasts a are produced in a rare,
Islay—was involved with the distilling heritage dating direct-fired pot still, and
whiskey’s development. back to the late 1700s. will all be marketed as single
Notch is made by distilling Payton’s operation is West barrel expressions, though
Whale’s Tale Pale Ale from Virginia’s first licensed they are currently still
the Cisco Brewery in a pot distilled spirits plant, and maturing. Don Outterson
still; it is then matured in ex- Mountain Moonshine Old has distilled a straight
bourbon barrels for five years. Oak Recipe Spirit Whiskey bourbon from a five grain
(50 percent ABV) is distilled recipe and a malt whisky;
from fermented corn mash. a small-batch blended
Tuthilltown Spirits It is then aged with roasted whisky will also be on
14 Gristmill Lane
oak chips for a short period offer in due course.
Gardiner, New York
The whiskey rebellion
Based in a converted granary
which adjoins a historic In 1791 the first tax was imposed
gristmill dating back to 1788, on distilled spirits in the US.
Tuthilltown distillery was set Commercial producers were assessed
up in 2005 and is operated by at a rate of six cents per gallon, but
Brian Lee and Ralph Erenzo. smaller, farm-based distillers were
In 1825 New York State assessed at nine cents per gallon.
had more than 1,000 Those most affected by this
working distilleries and apparently unfair discrepancy were
produced a major share of western settlers of Scottish and Irish
the nation’s whiskey, but origin, who often had little choice but
today, Tuthilltown is New to convert the grain they grew into
York’s only distillery. General George
Washington was an
whiskey to use as a form of currency.
It produces Hudson Baby Unrest spread among farmers along
Bourbon (46 percent ABV), accomplished distiller.
the western frontier, from
made with 100 percent New
Pennsylvania to Georgia, with many refusing to pay their taxes.
York State corn. This is the
In the summer of 1794, this manifested itself in what became
first bourbon to be made in
New York, and the first legal known as the Whiskey Rebellion, when excise officers were
pot-distilled whiskey to be assaulted and armed groups threatened to march on Pittsburgh.
produced in New York since The rebellion was only quelled when 13,000 troops were
Prohibition. It is described assembled and marched along the course of the Monongahela
as “a mildly sweet, smooth River, under the command of future president and distiller
spirit with hints of vanilla General George Washington (see also p206). It is sometimes
and caramel.” Hudson claimed that it took more troops to defeat the distillers than
Manhattan Rye (46 percent it had to beat the British during the War of Independence!
ABV) is “floral, fruity, and
210 whiskey nations
prohibition
The growth in commercial whiskey production during
the 19th century meant that by 1874, in excess of
200,000 retailers across the US sold whiskey, 120,000
more than just a decade previously. The Prohibitionist
Party was formed in 1869, and the temperance
movement became ever more influential in the Al Capone flouted
face of a perceived over-consumption of alcohol. Prohibition laws.
In 1909 no fewer than health and hygiene

120,000 saloons were in America.”
closed down and, by Prohibition came into
1910, more than 45 force in January 1920,
percent of the country but far from bringing
was “dry.” Many about a decline in
Tennessee distillers Temperence posters such as this drinking, alcohol
used sentiment to warn against
were forced to move the intoxicating effects of liquor. consumption actually
their operations to rose by 15 percent.
Kentucky in order to continue. Nine Prohibition was also the trigger for
years later, however, in the aftermath large-scale criminality, with gangs led
of World War I, Prohibition became by high-profile figures such as Al
a national issue. Capone making fortunes smuggling
alcohol into the US and supplying
National Prohibition it to illegal drinking dens, known
The National Prohibition Act of as speakeasies.
1919 enabled federal enforcement
of the 18th Amendment to the
American Constitution, which
banned the “manufacture, sale,
or transportation of intoxicating
liquors.” While wooing “dry” voters
during the 1928 presidential election
campaign, Herbert Hoover declared:
“Our country has deliberately
undertaken a great social and
economic experiment, noble in
motive and far-reaching in purpose.”
Its stated aims were “to reduce crime
and corruption, solve social problems,
reduce the tax burden created by
prisons and poorhouses, and improve
Even prior to Prohibition, bars were being closed
down and stills such as this one in North Carolina
were being confiscated by sheriffs.
USA 211
New York alone was home to some Bahamas to the the coast near
32,000 speakeasies. In the period just Boston. McCoy specialized in
prior to Prohibition, the city had less genuine Scotch whisky, and his
than half that number of legal bars. name ultimately entered the English
language, with “the Real McCoy”
An alcoholic crime wave becoming synonymous with
Large quantities of homemade authenticity. Vast amounts of
alcohol, often disparagingly referred Canadian whiskey were smuggled
to as “bathtub gin,” were distilled. across the border into the US,
Some of it was merely and gangster Lucky Luciano
unpalatable, while the worst was claimed that during Prohibition
lethal. A drink known as Jake, Sam Bronfman, president
made from high-strength of the Seagram Company,
alcohol fluid extracted from was “bootlegging
Jamaican ginger with added enough whiskey across
wood alcohol, is estimated the Canadian border
to have caused permanent to double the size of
paralysis in some 15,000 Lake Erie!”
people. An astonishing The American whiskey
172,537 illegal stills were Concealed pockets industry was forced to close
captured in 1925—five years were used to smuggle
and sell illicit liquor.
down or diversify, with the
later 282,122 were captured. exception of six Kentucky
Safer was the branded alcohol distilleries, which were granted
imported illegally by the likes of licenses to produce “medicinal
Captain William McCoy, who used whiskey.” Between them, they turned
his schooner Arethusa to run spirits out 1.4 million gallons (5.3 million
from Nassau in the liters) per year of spirit, which was
just as well, since Chicago doctors
alone prescribed some 200,000
gallons (760,000 liters) of “medicinal”
spirit in 1922.
Prohibition’s legacy
The “noble experiment” of
Prohibition was manifestly a failure,
and the public mood, which had
initially been supportive, changed
significantly as the years passed.
December 1933 saw the repeal of
Prohibition, after which consumption
of alcohol in the US actually fell by
25 percent. As the Scottish writer
Neil M Gunn wrote, “the American
experiment proved that you cannot
legislate a people into sobriety.”
Buffalo Trace produces many
whiskey brands, and some recall
Brands
great characters from America’s
whiskeymaking heritage.
The US has many brands with distinct identities that stand apart from
the distilleries that produce them. Indeed their ownership and provenance
may have changed over the years, reflecting the industry’s fluctuations.
batch bourbon distilling in

Ancient Age the 1980s. It is distilled using
Distillery: Buffalo Trace
the standard Jim Beam
formula, but aged longer and
Operated by the Leestown offered at a higher strength.
Distilling Company Inc., Baker’s Kentucky Straight
the Ancient Age Distillery Bourbon 7-year-old 55.3% ABV
was renamed Buffalo Trace Baker’s is a fruity, toasty
in 1999 (see p188). The expression of the Jim Beam
Ancient Age brand is, formula: medium-bodied,
therefore, a homage to the mellow, and richly flavored,
former distillery name. with mainstream notes of
Ancient Age 10-year-old vanilla and caramel.
43% ABV• Complex and
fragrant on the nose, with
spices, fudge, oranges, and Basil Hayden’s
honey. Medium bodied kentucky bourbon Blantons Single Barrel Bourbon
and, after a slightly dry Distillery: Jim Beam
opening, the oily palate
sweetens with developing Named after a Blanton’s Single
notes of vanilla, cocoa, pioneering Kentucky Barrel Bourbon
and a light char. distiller, Basil Hayden’s is Distillery: Buffalo Trace
produced to a high rye
formula, as also used Colonel Albert Bacon
Baker’s Kentucky for Old Grand-Dad Blanton was part-owner of
Bourbon (see p216). what is now Buffalo Trace
Distillery: Jim Beam Basil Hayden’s Distillery, where he worked
Kentucky Straight for 55 years. And that’s
Baker’s Kentucky Bourbon 8-year-old reason enough for this
Straight honors 40% ABV • The nose of commemorative bourbon,
Baker Beam, former Basil Hayden’s is named in his honor.
Clermont distiller light, aromatic, and Blanton’s Single Barrel
and cousin of Booker spicy, with soft rye, Bourbon 6–8 years-old
Noe (see over), the high wood polish, spices, 46.5% ABV • The nose of
profile distiller who Basil Hayden’s pepper, and vanilla Blanton’s is soft, with toffee,
instigated small- Straight Bourbon on the palate. leather, and a hint of mint.
US 213
However, Bulleit Bourbon Elijah Craig Kentucky

was revived in 1987 by Straight Bourbon 12-year-old
family member Tom Bulleit, 47% ABV • Elijah Craig is a
who began to make the classic bourbon, with sweet,
whiskey to the original recipe mature aromas of caramel,
in association with Seagram vanilla, spice, and honey,
Co. Ltd. in their Four Roses plus a sprig of mint. Rich,
Distillery. Seagram full-bodied, and
subsequently took rounded on the mellow
over the brand and, palate, with caramel,
ultimately, it passed malt, corn, rye, and a
to Diageo. Bulleit hint of smoke. Sweet
Bourbon is now oak, liquorice, and
distilled for Diageo restrained vanilla
The Buffalo Trace motif recalls the by Four Roses, on the finish.
distillery’s origins, at a Kentucky and has a high Elijah Craig
River crossing for herds of buffalo. rye content of Single Barrel
29 percent. Vintage Kentucky
Full-bodied and rounded on Bulleit Bourbon Straight Bourbon
the palate, this is a sweet Frontier Whiskey 18-year-old 45% ABV
bourbon, embracing vanilla, 45% ABV • Rich, oaky The oldest single
caramel, honey, and spices. aromas lead into a barrel bourbon on
The finish is long and creamy, mellow flavor, the market, this
with a late hint of spice. gathered around expression has an
vanilla and honey. Elijah Craig aroma of caramel,
The medium-length 12-Year-Old vanilla, and oak.
Booker’s Kentucky finish features Almost cognac-like
Bourbon vanilla and a hint of smoke. on the palate, it is medium-
Distillery: Jim Beam
bodied, with oak, honey,
and rye. The finish is long,
Named after Jim Beam’s Eagle Rare single slightly smoky and dry, with
grandson, Booker Noe barrel bourbon oily rye notes.
(see p196), this bourbon Distillery: Buffalo Trace
is made to the same Jim
Beam formula as Baker’s Eagle Rare Single Barrel Elmer T Lee single
Bourbon, and is bottled Kentucky Straight barrel bourbon
unfiltered and undiluted Bourbon 10-year-old Distillery: Buffalo Trace
to maintain its natural 45% ABV• Soft and delicate
barrel favors. on the nose, with honey, Elmer T Lee Single Barrel
Booker’s Kentucky leather, vanilla, and oak. Bourbon 45% ABV • Produced at
Straight Bourbon Sweet corn and stewed Buffalo Trace and named in
6–8 year-old fruits hit the palate, honour of its former master
• Big, fruity,
61.5%–63% ABV with spices, vanilla, distiller, Elmer T. Lee Single
and spicy on the nose, and rye notes. The Barrel is aged for six to eight
Booker’s is sweet and finish is long and years. This expression offers
slightly nutty on the quite sweet, with a citrus, vanilla, and sweet
palate, with heat hint of ginger. corn on the fragrant nose,
and spiciness in the while the palate is full and
oaky finish. A big, sweet, where honey and
traditional bourbon. Elijah Craig lingering caramel and cocoa
bourbon notes are much in evidence.
Distillery: Heaven Hill
Bulleit Booker’s
Bourbon Straight Bourbon Baptist minister Evan Williams
Reverend Elijah kentucky bourbon
Distillery: Four Roses
Craig (see p183) is widely Distillery: Heaven Hill
Bulleit Bourbon originated regarded as the “father of
in the 1830s, where Augustus bourbon.” The expression The second biggest-selling
Bulleit was a tavern-keeper that honors him is produced bourbon after Jim Beam,
and small-time distiller. His from no more than 100 Evan Williams takes its name
whiskey became well known barrels. It can justifiably be from the man considered to
in Kentucky and Indiana, considered the first “small- be Kentucky’s first distiller.
but production ceased with batch” bourbon, although it Evan began distilling on the
Bulleit’s death in 1860. actually predates the term. banks of the Ohio River in
214 whiskey nations
1783. It is the flagship brand mouth, with malt, fudge, stainless-steel tanks to
in the Heaven Hill portfolio. and vanilla notes. prevent further ageing.
Evan Williams Black Label Drying in the finish, This whiskey is now
Kentucky Straight Bourbon with notable oak notes, available from Preiss
7 year-old 43% ABV • The nose but the whiskey’s Imports (www.
is quite light yet aromatic, residual sweetness preissimports.com)
with vanilla and mint notes, remains to the end. of California.
while the palate is initially A.H. Hirsch Reserve
sweet, with caramel, malt, Straight Bourbon
and developing leather and A.H. Hirsch 16-year-old 45.8% ABV
spice notes. Bourbon Caramel, honey,
Evan Williams Single Barrel Distillery: Michter’s
and rye dominate
Vintage Kentucky Straight the complex nose,
Bourbon 43.3% ABV • This is Hirsch Reserve with a whiff of
the world’s only vintage- represents a smoke also drifting
dated single barrel bourbon. remarkable piece Hancock’s on through. Oily
It boasts an aromatic, malty of American President Special corn, honey, and
nose and is medium-bodied, distilling history, as Reserve oak are evident
due to its comparatively high the whiskey was on the rich palate,
corn content. Vanilla, light actually distilled back in with rye and oak in the finish.
caramel, marshmallow, 1974 in the last surviving
and mild oak Pennsylvania distillery.
characterize the palate. Michter’s Distillery at I.W. Harper
There is a whiff of Schaefferstown had President’s Reserve
smoke, plus almonds its origins in a farm bourbon
and honey in the spicy, distilling operation that Distillery: Four Roses
satisfying finish. was in existence since at
least 1753. In the years The historic and once best-
leading up to selling I.W. Harper brand was
George T Stagg Prohibition in the established by Isaac Wolfe
Bourbon 20th century, Bernheim, a major figure in
Michter’s turned out the bourbon business at the
significant quantities turn of the 19th century. It is
This bourbon is of rye whiskey. now distilled for Diageo by
named in honor of During the 1950s Four Roses Distillery, and is
George T. Stagg, copper pot stills were one of the leading bourbons
who owned what is installed, and pot still in the Japanese market.
now the Buffalo whiskey with a high I.W. Harper President’s
Trace Distillery in rye content was Reserve Kentucky Straight
the late 19th and Evan Williams produced. Sadly, Bourbon 43% ABV • Pepper
early 20th Bourbon Whiskey Michter’s closed in combines with mint,
centuries. 1988, but a former oranges, and caramel on the
George T Stagg Kentucky Schenley Co. executive, nose, while caramel and oak
Straight Bourbon 71.35% ABV Adolf Hirsch, had acquired feature on the elegant palate.
Offered unfiltered, at cask quantities of the spirit some The finish is dry and smoky.
strength, and at 15 years old, years previously, and after
George T. Stagg boasts a big, they had been matured for
rich Christmas cake nose, 16 years they were filled into Johnny Drum
along with a hint of mint. kentucky bourbon
Complex in the mouth, with Distillery: Kentucky
oranges, spices, and lots of Bourbon Distillers
sweetness. The finish is long
and sweet. Johnny Drum is reputed to
have been a Confederate
drummer boy during the
Hancock’s President’s Civil War, and latterly a
Reserve bourbon pioneer farmer in Kentucky.
He started to distil his corn
to generate extra income,
Hancock’s President’s and developed a reputation
Reserve Single Barrel Bourbon for making excellent whiskey.
44–45% ABV • Oily on the nose, Four Roses Distillery provides the Johnny Drum bourbon was
with liquorice, caramel and whiskey for I.W. Harper President’s formerly produced in the
spicy rye. Sweet in the Reserve Kentucky Bourbon. Willet Distillery, located just
US 215
outside Bardstown in Kessler, who traveled from

Kentucky. It was established saloon to saloon in the old Noah’s Mill Bourbon
by the Willet family in 1935 West, selling it as he went. Distillery: Kentucky Bourbon
and closed in the early 1980s Kessler Blended American Distillers Ltd
when the last Willet retired. Whiskey 40% ABV • This whiskey
The plant was later acquired has carried the “smooth as Like Johnny Drum, Noah’s
by Kentucky Bourbon silk” slogan for 50 years, and Mill was formerly distilled
Distillers Ltd., which now certainly lives up to its in the now silent Willet
has a range of whiskies billing. The nose is light and Distillery, and is currently
distilled under contract. fruity; the palate sweet, with produced under contract.
Johnny Drum Kentucky just enough complexity It is a hand-bottled, small-
Straight Bourbon 12- of liquorice and leather batch bourbon.
year-old 43% ABV to highlight the fact that Noah’s Mill Bourbon 15-year-
Smooth and elegant the bourbon in this old 57.15% ABV • Elegant and
on the nose, with vanilla, blend has been aged for well-balanced on the nose,
gentle spices, and at least four years. with caramel, nuts, coffee,
smoke. This is a dark fruits, and oak. A rich
full-bodied texture and notably dry on
bourbon, well- Knob Creek the palate, with nuts, spice,
balanced and Bourbon and background notes of
smooth in the Distillery: Jim Beam
soft fruit. Long, oaky finish.
mouth, with
vanilla and a hint Knob Creek is the
of smoke. The Kentucky town Old Charter Bourbon
finish is lingering where Abraham Distillery: Buffalo Trace
and sophisticated. Lincoln’s father,
Thomas, owned a Buffalo Trace produce
farm and worked several expressions in the
Kessler Knob Creek at the local Old Charter range,
Blended Straight Bourbon distillery. This including 8, 10, and 12-year-
Whiskey bourbon is made old bourbons, plus the
with the same high rye elegant 13-year-old
formula as the Basil Hayden Proprietor’s Reserve.
One of the best known and and Old Grand-Dad whiskey Old Charter Kentucky
most highly regarded brands (see pp212 & 216). Straight Bourbon 8 year-old
blended American whiskies, Knob Creek Kentucky 40% ABV• Initially dry and
Kessler traces its origins back Straight Bourbon peppery on the nose, with
to 1888, when it was first 9-year-old 50% ABV • It has a sweet and buttery aromas
blended by one Julius nutty nose of sweet, tangy following through. Mouth-
fruit and rye, with malt, coatingly rich, with fruit,
Jim Beam Distillery produces spice, and nuts on the palate, vanilla, old leather, and
several well-known brands, as drying in the finish with cloves on the palate. A long
well as its own range. notes of vanilla. and sophisticated finish.
216 whiskey nations
Old Charter Proprietor’s of marzipan; sweet,

Reserve Kentucky Straight Old Grand-Dad honeyed, and oaky on
Bourbon 13-year-old 45% ABV bourbon the palate.
Initially dry and peppery Distillery: Jim Beam
on the nose, with developing
buttery and sweet notes. The Old Grand-Dad Rebel Yell
Big-bodied and viscous, formula, with its high bourbon
with fruit, vanilla, and worn percentage of rye, Distillery: Heaven Hill
leather on the palate. The gives a more heavily-
finish is long, complex, and, bodied spirit than Produced at the
as you’d expect of a 13-year- most Jim Beam Bernheim Distillery
old bourbon, sophisticated. whiskies. in Louisville for St.
Old Grand-Dad Louis-based drinks
Kentucky Straight company Luxco,
Old Crow Bourbon Bourbon 4-year-old Rebel Yell is made
50% ABV • Oranges with a percentage of
and peppery spices wheat in its mashbill
Named in honor of the on the nose, while instead of rye. A
19th-century Scottish-born the taste is full yet Old Grand-Dad whiskey was first
chemist and Kentucky surprisingly smooth. Straight Bourbon made to the Rebel
distiller James Christopher Fruit, nuts, and Yell recipe back in
Crow (see p200), Old Crow caramel are foremost 1849, and the whiskey has
is well rounded for a three- on the palate, while the enjoyed popularity in the
year-old whiskey. Along with finish is long and oily. southern states for many
Old Grand-Dad and Old years. The brand was finally
Taylor, this brand was released on an international
acquired by Jim Beam from Old Taylor Bourbon basis during the 1980s.
National Distillers in Distillery: Jim Beam
Rebel Yell Kentucky Straight
1987, and the three Bourbon 40% ABV • A nose of
individual distilleries Old Taylor is named honey, raisins, and butter
associated with these after Colonel Edmund leads into a big-bodied
bourbons were closed. Haynes Taylor Jr.— bourbon which again
All production now the man responsible features honey and a buttery
takes place in Jim for the Bottled-in- quality, along with plums.
Beam’s distilleries in Bond Act of 1897, The finish is long and spicier
Boston and which guaranteed than might be expected from
Clermont. that bottles of the sweet palate.
Old Crow Kentucky whiskey bearing an
Straight Bourbon official government
3-year-old 40% ABV seal would be 100 Rock Hill Farm
Complex on the nose, proof (50 percent Bourbon
with malt, rye, and ABV) and at least Distillery: Buffalo Trace
sharp fruit notes that four years old.
combine with gentle Old Taylor Kentucky Rock Hill Farm Single Cask
spice. The palate Straight Bourbon Bourbon 50% ABV
follows through with 6 year-old 40% ABV Oak, raisins, and fruity rye
spicy, malty, and citric Old Crow Old Taylor is light on the nose, with a hint of
notes—the citrus and Straight and orangey on the mint. Medium to full-bodied,
spice to the fore. Bourbon nose, with a hint bittersweet, with rye
The bottling plant at Buffalo Trace copes with

a wide array of whiskies, from Blanton’s
Single Barrel to Weller’s Special Reserve.
US 217
fruitiness, fudge, and oak. on the nose, sweet in the Bourbon Whiskey
A long, sweet rye finish with mouth, with more 15-year-old 53.5% ABV
a suggestion of liquorice. vanilla, butterscotch, A sweet nose of
fruit, and spices. caramel and vanilla,
The finish is long, plus charcoal and oak.
Sazerac rye whiskey with pepper and Full-bodied, round,
fruity spices. and smooth in the
mouth, with a long
There are two Sazerac and complex finish of
expressions: a young and van winkle spicy orange, toffee,
feisty 8-year-old and a whiskiES vanilla, and oak.
complex 18-year-old. Distillery: various Pappy Van Winkle’s
Sazerac Straight Rye Whiskey Family Reserve Kentucky
18-year-old 45% ABV • The Since 2002 Buffalo Straight Bourbon
oldest rye whiskey on the Trace Distillery has Whiskey 20-year-old
market is big and spicy on partnered the Julian 47.8% ABV • Notably
the nose, with molasses, Van Winkle brand old for a bourbon.
sultanas, vanilla, and lanolin. in a joint venture A sweet vanilla and
It coats the mouth with whereby the distillery Van Winkle caramel nose, plus
intense and oily rye, makes, bottles, and 13-Year-Old raisins, apples, and
conveying dry spices and distributes the Van Family Reserve oak. Rich and
a hint of liquorice, then Winkle range of buttery
sweetens, with ripe bananas. older whiskies. The whiskies in the mouth, with molasses
The finish is long, with a are then matured at Van and a hint of char to balance
sprinkling of pepper. Winkle’s now silent Old the sweetness. The finish
Hoffman Distillery at is long and complex, with a
Lawrenceburg. touch of oak charring.
Seagram’s Julian Van Winkle Van Winkle Family Reserve Rye
Seven Crown specializes in small-batch, Whiskey 13-year-old 47.8% ABV
Distillery: Four Roses
aged whiskies, with as few as Very old for a rye. The nose
three or four barrels going is powerful, with fruit and
One of the best known into some bottlings. His spice, while vanilla, spice,
blended American whiskies, bourbons are made with pepper, and cocoa dominate
Seven Crowns survived the wheat, rather than the less the complex palate. The
break up of the Seagram expensive rye, to give long finish balances
empire and is now made them a smoother and caramel against black coffee.
at Four Roses Distillery. sweeter flavor. Van Van Winkle Special Reserve
Seagram’s Seven Crown Winkle also favors a long Kentucky Straight Bourbon
Blended Whiskey 40% ABV maturation period, and Whiskey 12-year-old 45.2% ABV
• A delicate nose with all whiskies in the range Caramel, vanilla, honey,
a hint of rye; clean are matured for at and oak figure on the
and well structured on least 10 years in nose, while the sweet
the spicy palate. lightly charred and full-bodied palate
mountain oak barrels. exudes caramel, vanilla,
Though Van Winkle and wheat. The finish is
WL Weller is a partner of Buffalo long, well-balanced,
bourbon Trace, the current and elegant.
expressions were
actually produced at Pappy Van Winkle
William LaRue Weller a number of different
established the distilleries. Julian Van Winkle is the
original W.L. Weller Old Rip Van Winkle grandson of legendary
Bourbon brand in Kentucky Straight bourbon figure Julian P.
1849. It employs Van Winkle Bourbon Whiskey “Pappy” Van Winkle Sr,
wheat rather than rye 15-Year-Old 10-year-old 53.5% ABV who started working as a
as the “small grain,” Family Caramel and molasses salesman for W.L. Weller &
along with corn and a Reserve on the nose, followed Sons in Louisville in 1893
proportion of malted by honey and rich, at the age of 18. He went
barley. This tends to produce spicy fruit on the profound, on to become famous for
big-bodied yet soft whiskies. mellow palate. There follows his Old Fitzgerald
W.L. Weller Special Reserve a long finish, with coffee and Bourbon, distilled in the
Kentucky Straight Bourbon liquorice. now lost Stitzel Weller
7-year-old 45% ABV Pappy Van Winkle’s Family Distillery in Louisville.
Oranges, honey, and vanilla Reserve Kentucky Straight
whiskey nations 219
CANADA
Historically, Canada is one of whiskey’s biggest players.

And while it still commands loyal support, the fact remains
that it has slipped from the top flight of whiskey-producing
nations. But why is this so, and can the glory days return?
C
anada has probably produced used it to slake the inexhaustible thirst
whiskey since the 1760s, with for whiskey in the many speakeasies that
early distillation based around sprung up across the States. It was
an area in the south of Ontario on the theft of a shipment of Canadian
Canada’s east coast. By the mid-1800s, whiskey that prompted the infamous
about 200 distilleries were established, St. Valentine’s Day Massacre in 1929.
and the country’s reputation grew
throughout the late 19th century and on end of the golden age
well into the 20th. That was the period From such a high point, the fall of
of Canadian whiskey’s golden age, as the Canadian whiskey in world terms has
spirit flowed across the American been a marked decline. For several
borders. Whiskeymakers such as Hiram decades now, Canadian whiskey has
Walker, who had created the Canadian had a much lower profile and operated
Club brand in the 1880s, and later Sam on a far more modest scale.
Bronfman at Seagram created vast On the face of it, the future of
commercial empires. As the golden age the industry in Canada doesn’t look
progressed into the mid-20th century, particularly rosy. Where once 200
companies such as Seagram and Hiram distilleries produced rivers of whiskey
Walker & Sons dominated not just the to serve an all but insatiable American
American market, but that of the entire market, now Canada is like a broken
world, with Seagram even building its jigsaw, with just 10 distilleries, a sizeable
own distilleries in Scotland, at Allt a’ number of them owned by Kentucky
Bhainne and Braeval (see pp49 & 53). bourbon companies or international
The initial fortunes of the country’s spirits producers. Dig a little deeper,
whiskey industry had been greatly aided though, and there are burning embers
by Prohibition in the US. During that in the ashes. And the good news for
time, consignments of whiskey would sail lovers of Canada’s unique whiskey styles
down the rivers and through the Great —note the plural—is that Canadian
Lakes into the US, where bootleggers whiskey producers aren’t going to
give up without a fight.
Many Canadian distilleries make use of pure glacial
Although there were economic reasons
water that flows down from the country’s Rocky for the industry’s decline, there are two
Mountain Ranges in fast-flowing rivers. principal explanations for its continued
220 whiskey nations
comparatively lowly canadian DISTILLERIES

state, and part of
the trouble is self-
inflicted. Crucially,
the industry has
done little to sell
itself in recent
decades. While Scotch,
Irish, American, and
Japanese whiskies have all
been promoted in terms of their intrinsic
national and regional characteristics whiskey from elsewhere, the country’s
and subtle distinctions from one another, distillate is uniquely Canadian.
little attempt has been made to champion Rye is the core of Canadian whiskey,
the unique qualities of Canadian whiskey but it’s unlike the kind of rye whiskey
to the rest of the world. you’ll find in the US. Canadian whiskey
Secondly, when Canadian whiskey has uses a complex mix of strongly flavored
been praised, those extolling it have malted and unmalted rye whiskies
tended to be working in the cocktail combined with a far greater amount
sector, where the nature of the spirit has of smooth and light grain whiskey.
been celebrated for its mixing qualities. An additional quality of Canadian
Quite rightly, as it happens, but that’s not whiskey is that it can include a small
the whole story. And, because few people percentage of flavorings, such as
have explained Canadian whiskey’s other fruit, sherry, or bourbon (see p222),
virtues, it has all too often been accepted further distinguishing its character, and
only as a cocktail whiskey—smooth, usually contributing to its rounded
rounded, bland even, and best mixed and fruity character. It’s the ability to
with additional flavors. blend all these elements harmoniously
that marks out the most sophisticated
Setting the Canadian whiskies.
Record Straight It is high time that the country’s whiskey
Let’s dismiss a few popular fallacies was re-evaluated in international terms.
about the style of Canadian whiskey: it As to whether a change of fortune is just
isn’t bland, and nor is it an imitation around the corner, only time will tell.
of either Scotch blended whisky or
American bourbon. While Canada’s Massive silos, such as these in Alberta, store the
distillers may well produce individual raw grain ingredients—wheat, corn, rye, and
whiskies that bear a resemblance to barley—for use in the whiskeymaking industry.
CANADA 221
Seagrams is no more, but in the
Distilleries
mid-20th century, it was one of
the giants of the industry.
Canada’s whiskey industry has blending at its heart. Because its distilleries
can produce the variety of constituent whiskies that contribute to a
blend’s mix, distilleries are intrinsically linked to the brands they produce.
casks, or even in unused Alberta Springs expression

Alberta new white oak casks. from the distillery is softer
Calgary Alberta Premium 5-Year- and sweeter. It therefore
www.albertadistillers.com old 40% ABV • It tends to be harks back to a more
Open to visitors
that the longer rye is in recognizable style of
the cask, the mellower it Canadian whiskey.
Calgary sits on the verdant becomes, so the younger Tangle Ridge 40% ABV
plains of Alberta, where expressions of Alberta’s This is the distillery’s most
some of the world’s finest rye output are the most commercial product; it
is cultivated, and beneath the aggressive, uncompromising, contains 10-year-old whiskey,
awesome Rockies, from and impressive. For this but in this case, it is blended
which pure mountain spring reason, Alberta Premium, with sherry and fruit
water can be drawn. Ideal, at just 5 years old, is held flavorings—as permitted
then, for a rye-producing up in some quarters as a under Canada’s whiskey
distillery such as Alberta. world-class whiskey. laws (see p222).
The distillery can produce Alberta Springs 10-year- Windsor 40% ABV • This
in batches or continuously old 40% ABV • Having been is a fairly aggressive,
and has a pot still, used for aged for 10 years, the rye-dominated blend.
making specialty whiskies.
There are two principal Alberta’s Output
whiskey types distilled in the
production process. The Alberta Distillery was founded in 1946, and for the last 20
bulk of the distillery’s blends years, has been owned by Jim Beam. It is capable of producing
are made up of a base spirit, about 4.5 million gallons (about 20 million liters) of alcohol per
unusually made with rye year. It’s not the biggest producer in Canada—not by a long
rather than the traditional shot—but that’s still twice what Scotland’s biggest malt
corn. It is first distilled in distillery, Glenfiddich, produces per annum.
a beer still and then again Despite its formidable size and its international owner, Alberta
in a continuous rectifier has preserved its reputation as a maverick, producing an
(see p28). It is distilled to unconventional group of whiskies dominated by rye. You might
an alcohol level of around think that geography would have explained this, as rye grows
95–96 percent ABV. easily here. These days, however, the obstacles to converting
A second whiskey is made to other grain types have all but disappeared, so today’s
from rye, but this time it is whiskey is made through choice, not circumstance.
distilled only once, the effect
of which is to produce a Rye is the grain that grows best in
spirit with a relatively low Alberta, whereas, because of the
ABV of about 65 percent. temperature, corn fares less well.
One distillation means that
oils and congeners are left in
the spirit, making it heavy,
oily, and rich in flavor.
The two spirits are blended
and maturation then takes
place in first-fill bourbon
222 whiskey nations
the character of canadian whiskey

That there is a big market for whiskey in Canada is no great surprise.
Just consider the large number of early settlers who were forced to
make the journey to North America from Scotland, and you’ll
understand why the nations’ drinking tastes are linked.
However, while there are clear Canadian whiskey still further,

cultural links, as well as many Canadian law permits a fraction
similarities in the climate and terrain over nine percent of the final
of the two countries, the whiskey whiskey to be made up of other
bond is not such a snug fit. It is flavorings, such as sherry or fruit
true that a small amount of pot- —or indeed foreign whiskey.
still produced malt is made in A handful of Canadian whiskies
Canada today, but the greater contain some Kentucky
part of the country’s whiskey bourbon, for example.
output is a very different beast. Canadian whiskey produced
What is widely accepted as this way is notable for its
the country’s trademark style smooth, rounded, and fruity
of whiskey is defined, not by its style. It has been dismissed by
malted barley content, but by some critics for being light and
rye. And even in this regard it’s Highwood inconsequential, but, at its
in a category of its own. Unlike Centennial best, a Canadian whiskey offers
Whiskey
American straight rye, the style a sophisticated master class
most closely associated with Canadian in blending.
whiskey is, in its simplest form, a mix of There is one other key aspect to
a light base-grain whiskey (produced in the final whiskey’s flavor—the impact
a continuous still) mixed with a small of oak from maturation. The blending
proportion of rye whiskey. process may take place before or
In practice, Canadian whiskies are after maturation in oak casks, but,
complex and sophisticated, blending like Scotch whisky, the minimum
several different styles of rye with the maturation period is three years,
base spirit. And to differentiate rather than the two favored in the US.
White oak barrels such as these from the
Canadian Mist Distillery add flavor to the whiskey
over a minium three-year maturation period.
canada 223
Canadian Mist 40% ABV 100 miles (160 km) north of

Canadian club The nose offers light the town of Winnipeg, amid
See Hiram Walker & Sons fruit, a hint of toffee, a large Icelandic community.
and a little spice. Rich, It is now owned by drinks
sweet, and fruity on the giant Diageo, and in
Canadian Mist palate, with toffee and some ways its history is
Georgian Bay,
vanilla too. The a microcosm of Canada’s
Collingwood, Ontario finish is soft, whiskey history as a whole.
By appointment only
rounded, Gimli was built in 1968 to
and pleasant. catch the same wave of
Canadian Mist is popularity for Canadian
a testament to the whiskey that Canadian Mist
boom times for Gimli was riding, and its modern
Canadian whiskey, Gimli, Manitoba
design is a testament to just
built with haste to www.crownroyal.com
how high Canadian whiskey
catch the last wave Open to visitors
flew in relatively recent times.
of demand before It was one of a number of
it entirely passed by. Gimli stands close distilleries owned by Seagram,
It was built in the Canadian to the edge of Lake each of them producing
1960s and, from Mist Winnipeg, about spirit for the world’s markets.
foundation stone
to working distillery, the A distillery like no other
construction took just
five months. Canadian Mist is a continuous distillation plant. It is neither
The plant sits in the heart particularly pretty nor, on the face of it, particularly exceptional.
of Ontario by Collingwood, Until, that is, you look at it purely from a whiskey enthusiast’s
a small town close to the technical point of view, for it has three peculiarities that make
freshwater beach of it unique. In fact, this distillery is a phenomenon that turns
Georgian Bay. It is one of whiskey lore on its head.
the few Canadian distilleries Firstly, Canadian Mist is made without any exposure
that produces only whiskey, whatsoever to copper. The production equipment is entirely
as it was set up by the made from stainless steel, and purists will tell you that the
Kentucky bourbon makers
finished whiskey should be sulfurous as a result. More than
Barton Brands (see p187) to
expand upon the success two million cases sold in the US each year argue rather
they were already having emphatically that it’s not.
with the Canadian Mist Secondly, it is the only Canadian whiskey made with a mash
whiskey brand. of corn and malted barley. Malted barley is often used as the
The distillery’s location catalyst to help other grains begin to ferment, and in this plant,
was just about ideal: close the process just wouldn’t happen without it. It adds flavor, too,
to communication channels though that is incidental to the Canadian Mist operation.
for both Canada and the And thirdly, the distillery does not produce any rye for
United States; close enough flavoring. Instead it brings in rye from one of Brown-Forman’s
to the grain-producing Kentucky distilleries, as well as an amount of Kentucky
regions; endowed with bourbon, which is allowed under Canadian law (see opposite).
great stocks of water; and Canadian Mist is not to everyone’s taste, but it is an enigma—
with a depressed economy and quite literally goes against the grain.
that ensured favorable tax
breaks for businesses from Candian Mist Distillery uses
the government. stainless steel throughout,
Canadian Mist has including these fermenters.
enjoyed continued success
since the plant started up,
and was in fact the top-
selling Canadian whiskey in
the US for many years.
These days the distillery
is owned by another
Kentucky-based company,
Brown-Forman (see p188),
who also own Jack Daniel’s
and Woodford Reserve.
It remains a big brand in
the US market.
224 whiskey nations
and limited editions of

Crown Royal contain older
and rarer whiskies. They may
contain up to 50 whiskies in
the mix, and a distinctly
bourbony flavor emerges.
Gimli also produces a
number of smaller brands,
including Seagram’s 83 and
Seagram’s Five Star, a wistful
nod to the distillery’s history.
Crown Royal 40% ABV l Rye
spice, honey, and red fruit
combine on the nose. It
has a rounded, balanced
palate, with fruit, spice, and
oak; the finish is soft, sweet,
and pleasant.
Crown Royal XR 40% ABV
A nice wave of spicy rye,
and then bourbony vanilla,
polished leather, and musk
body spray. Decidedly male.
The palate offers up-front
rye and wood, and the polite
bourbon taste expected from
the nose, but gives ground
easily and settles for a gentle
caress rather than a hefty
Kentucky slap—intriguing.
As for the finish, well, the
Samples of whiskey are selected out exactly how much corn rye stays around longer
from casks for appraisal at the and water are used in after the whiskey, oiled to
former Seagram’s Distillery. making the whiskey. Suffice the sides of the mouth.
to say that there are 1.25
One by one, however, the million barrels stored on the Canada Day Cocktail
distilleries fell by the wayside, site, a similar quantity to the
and Gimli was Seagram’s number stored at Jack Canadian whiskey remains
last whiskey-producing plant Daniel’s Tennessee Distillery. very popular with modern
before the company itself Gimli is also home to one mixologists because it is
finally succumbed to the of Canada’s most iconic versatile and ideal for
fall in the fortunes of the brands, Crown Royal. The making modern and
Canadian whiskey industry. brand was launched in 1939 unusual cocktails, such as
Gimli remains a monster to mark the visit to Canada this one, which celebrates
of a distillery, however. Visit of King George VI and Canada Day.
the website and you can find Queen Elizabeth of Great
Britain, and the blend Ingredients:
has contributed significantly ½ measure (10 ml)
to Canada’s whiskey exports of Crown Royal whiskey
ever since. ½ measure (10 ml)
The base whiskey is made of sloe gin
in three primary beer stills ½ measure (10 ml)
and a complex four-column of triple sec
rectifier, while bourbon and ½ measure (10 ml)
rye flavoring whiskies pass of Galliano
through a simpler two- About 2 measures
column continuous still. (40–60 ml) of orange juice
No other non-whiskey
flavorings are added. Method: Stir all the
The resulting whiskey is ingredients over cracked
almost archetypally ice. Strain over ice in to a
Canadian, its rich fruitiness highball glass and garnish
and touch of spice blended with lemon and lime slices.
Crown Royal to perfection. The special
canada 225
the process of making canadian whiskey

To achieve a perfectly balanced whiskey, Canadian distilleries make
a range of different whiskies at each plant. This will include using
a variety of grains, varying the fermentation period and the mash
bill, and employing different distilling techniques.
Although the basic method the character of Canadian

of production involves whiskey is defined by the
mainly column still dominant rye, malted rye
distillation, copper pot is a crucial component for
stills often feature to make the smoothness and
heavy, flavoring whiskey. fullness of flavor in a
Complicated combinations Canadian whiskey. Despite
are employed, making its dominance, however,
Canada’s production rye may only account for
process among the most about 10 percent of the
sophisticated in the world. spirit in the mix, and that
Unusually, it is common figure can often fall to as
to distil with malted rye low as five percent.
(rather than the more Schenley’s huge column Some single malt
common unmalted form), stills produce the bulk of whiskey does exist in
the distillery’s output.
and most distilleries will Canada, as do some single
also produce a version of bourbon. grain whiskies, and generally the
Even basic Canadian whiskies will use standard is very high. That quality,
around 15 different whiskies; some coupled with a renewed interest in rye
have well in excess of 20, and they can among whiskey lovers, could prompt a
have up to as many as 50. Although reappraisal of Canadian whiskey.
Vast grain fields in Saskatchewan and other
parts of Canada produce plenty of top-quality
grain for Canada’s whiskey industry.
The grain silos in Alberta are
vast, and give an indication of
just how fertile the terrain is,
especially for growing rye.
228 whiskey nations
Glenora
Glenville, Cape Breton,
Nova Scotia
www.glenoradistillery.com
Open to visitors
Nova Scotia means “New

Scotland,” and when people
draw comparisons between
Scotland and Canada, it’s
often of Nova Scotia that
they are thinking. It should,
therefore, come as no
surprise to find Canada’s
only single malt distillery,
complete with imported
copper pot stills, right here Glenora Distillery has been Glenora has chalets for visitors
in Cape Breton. making whiskey for just close to the plant; they overlook
Indeed, so close is the under 20 years, and was the beautiful valley where the
link between Cape Breton the brainchild of Canadian distillery is located.
and the Scottish businessman Bruce
Highlands that Glenora Jardine. The site was Bruce died in 1994 before
has managed to upset chosen because of the he could see his vision and
the Scotch Whisky purity of its water investment bear fruit. But,
Association. It claimed source—a burn flowing from a tentative start, the
the distillery’s Glen over granite. However, distillery started to get its act
Breton whiskey caused within a few weeks of together. Poor early spirit
confusion over its production starting, it was redistilled, producing a
origin by the use of stopped when the triple-distilled whiskey. In the
the word “glen,” so money ran out. last few years it has
common to famous After two stuttering continued to evolve nicely,
Scotch malts such years, it was sold and is now being bottled as
as Glenlivet. It’s to another local an 8 or 9-year-old whiskey.
a claim that’s businessman, The distillery itself is built
undermined, Lauchie MacLean, on a 300-acre (120-ha) site,
however, by the whose ancestors comprising seven buildings.
prominent maple Glen Breton hail from Scotland.
leaf on the bottles. Ice Whiskey
Glenora is a high-tech distillery,

but produces that most traditional
of whiskies, single malt.
CANADA 229
It has a wash and a spirit still Potter’s Distillery— this distillery could well
imported from Scotland and at the time, British move in the near future.
is capable of producing a Columbia’s only Highwood is also home
modest 55,000 gallons surviving distillery— to the brands produced
(250,000 liters) of spirit a and brought all its by Potter’s—a name
year—though the owners brands under the that recalls Ernie
point out that the site has Highwood wing. Potter, who founded
been designed to allow The plant was in the eponymous
improvements that would fact first established distillery in 1958.
quickly increase output to as as Sunnyvale Distillery and brand
much as twice that amount. Distillery in 1974, were bought by
The distillery has imported another distillery Highwood in 2005.
barley from Scotland in the created to take
past and has experimented advantage of the
with a range of peat levels, booming Canadian Hiram walker
while favoring just lightly whiskey market. It & Sons
peated whiskey for its core changed its name in Walkerville,
expression, which is matured 1984 in recognition Windsor, Ontario
in bourbon barrels. of the region within Highwood’s www.canadian
At present the distillery’s which it is producing, Potter’s Rye clubwhisky.com
main bottling is called Cape and now boasts a Whiskey
Open to visitors
Breton Rare Canadian. It’s portfolio of some 50
an 8-year-old whiskey with different products, including Founded in 1858, Hiram
a distinctive butterscotch premixed drinks and Walker’s distillery was
and orange flavor. liqueurs. It has several expanded in 1894, with
The distillery has also little-known whiskey great fanfare, and a town
recently launched an brands that sell mainly in grew up around it to
expression called Glen the west of Canada, accommodate distillery
Breton Ice, which is although there has employees. Known as
the same spirit, but been some expansion Walkerville, the area is
matured in ice wine to the east and down still home to the original
barrels—the world’s to the US. It also distillery and much of it is a
first whiskey to be bottles spirits for throwback to Hiram Walker’s
aged this way, it other companies. time. The production
is claimed. Its point of methods haven’t changed
If you are thinking difference from massively either, and much
of making the other Canadian of the old equipment
journey out to this distilleries is that it is remains in place, though
beautiful part of the the only one in not necessarily in use.
world, consider Canada to produce The Hiram Walker
staying at one of its neutral base spirit Distillery has long been
the nearby chalets, from wheat rather associated with the
which are advertised than corn. The Canadian Club brand
on the distillery’s Highwood trouble is, wheat (see over), although
website. Rye Whiskey produces a lighter ownership has
spirit that is ideal for recently been split,
vodka production—which is with the distillery
Highwood key to the distillery’s output now falling under
High River, Alberta
—but is not necessarily so the Pernod Ricard
www.highwood-distillers.com
good for whiskey. Those who umbrella; and
Open to visitors
have tried the new make Canadian Club
report that it is not only now being part
Highwood is a remote, characterless but just about of Jim Beam
independent operation that tasteless—and that, of Global.
nestles in the middle of some course, doesn’t bode well Canadian Club
of Canada’s most fertile for the mature whiskey. has, of course,
grain-producing land. This That said, though, the remained a
seems to be a distillery on 13-year-old and 15-year-old world-famous
the up, albeit from a fairly whiskies produced under the brand, but under
low starting point. Century Reserve label are the one name is a
In fact, it’s effectively two single cask pure rye whiskies. range of distinct
distilleries for the price of They have a great deal of whiskies. Mostly
one, because a few years personality, and hint at the they are distilled Canadian
ago Highwood bought premium direction in which and then Club whiskey
230 whiskey nations
HIRAM WALKER AND CANADIAN CLUB WHISKeY

There are some legendary names scattered through the history of
Canadian whiskey, but none are bigger than Hiram Walker. Through
the methods he used and through his Canadian Club brand, he more
than any other was responsible for putting Canada on the whiskey map.
While it might be stretching it a Initially, he made whiskey in the

little to credit him with inventing tried and tested fashion, mixing a
Canadian whiskey as we know it dominant percentage of corn with
today, Hiram Walker’s influence other grains, including malted
on its development is immense, barley and rye, distilled through
and his way of producing wooden continuous stills.
whiskey has been emulated By the time he launched
across the country ever since. what was to become known as
Early references to Canadian Canadian Club in 1884, though,
whiskey mention the wild and the production method had
pioneering times of the 18th changed to one that is now
century, when distilled grain recognizably a Canadian style.
was consumed by trappers, The whiskey was made up of
hunters, and settlers to get Canadian very strong base spirit mixed
inebriated. It would have Club Special with a considerably weaker
Reserve
been an unrefined hooch far flavored spirit, often made with
removed from the smooth and rye. For this, a copper pot still was used
sophisticated product it is today. to make a heavy, oil-rich rye.
By the 1840s there were 200 The result was lighter and cleaner
distilleries in Canada, but it wasn’t whiskey than others of the time, and it
until 1858 that Walker, a businessman was an immediate success, particularly
with interests in shipping and tobacco, across the border in the northern
founded a mill and distillery at a site industrial cities of the US.
near Windsor, Ontario. Its success prompted other
producers to turn to the same
The Hiram Walker Distillery pioneered the
distinctive style of Canadian whiskey, marrying production methods, and so it was
grain whiskey with a flavorful oil-rich rye. that the Canadian boom began.
CANADA 231
Wiser’s whiskies
Hiram Walker is now Maple Leaf
also home to some of Ingredients:
the whiskies that used A little over 1 measure
to be produced by the (30 ml) of Canadian Club
Corby Distillery, Classic whiskey
which closed in the A third of a measure (8 ml)
1990s. They include of lemon juice
the highly respected 1 tsp of maple syrup
range that appear
under the Wiser’s Method: Fill a mixing glass
label (owned by with ice. Add the whiskey,
Pernod Ricard), lemon juice, and maple
which have been syrup, then shake. Strain
distilled at Hiram into a cocktail glass.
Walker’s for about
10 years.
Wiser’s De Chances are, you haven’t
Luxe 40% ABV heard of it. Kittling Ridge
The nose is solid, with is a small, independent
rye and fruit, and the company, founded in 1971
Canadian Club, as advertised in palate both grainy and oily, by a Swiss stillmaster in
this French-Canadian poster, was with some toffee and vanilla order to make European-
popularized around the world as notes. There’s lots going style fruit brandies. The
a mixing whiskey for cocktails. on, with oak and grain in operation was expanded
attendance, and the finish soon after to produce other
blended before maturing. is full and embracing. spirits. Despite the vineyard-
The standard Canadian Distinctly moreish. sounding name—introduced
Club is a 6-year-old, but Wiser’s 18-Year-Old 40% ABV no doubt to attract the
Canadian Club Reserve is Shy but complicated nose, growing number of Canadian
a 10-year-old and contains with prune, overripe peach, wine enthusiasts—wine has
a higher proportion of rye. polished leather, and honey. been a relatively late addition
The Classic 12-year-old has On the palate, this is to the company’s offering.
a higher proportion of whiskey’s version of a sugar- The wine link came when
malted barley. Best of the coated candy, with a grain original founder Otto Reider
range though are the 100 and oak coating and a retired and winemaster John
proof version and the chocolate and fruit center. Hall took over. It is his precise
Canadian Club Sherry The finish lashes out with a and winelike approach to
Finish, which is an 8-year-old sharp prod at the end, then whiskeymaking that has
and benefits considerably smolders in the mouth for helped define this distillery’s
from the additional fruitiness a while. Not totally expected, products—in particular Forty
the second cask imparts. but captivating all the same. Creek Barrel Select, one of
Canadian Club 40% ABV Canada’s most appealing
Spirity and winey on the and intriguing whiskies.
nose. The palate is sharp Kittling Ridge Forty Creek is made using
and oily, with a splash of Grimsby, Ontario
three grains, but there is no
vanilla and then a spicy www.kittlingridge.com
mash bill for them. That is
finish, which is both Open to visitors Mar–
because they are fermented
short and sharp. Oct, or by appointment in batches separately, and
Canadian Club then individually distilled in
Classic 40% ABV l Toffee If it is a dramatic copper stills. Each of them is
and vanilla aromas location you then matured in white oak
on the nose, and want for your casks that have been selected
a palate that distillery, then specially for the individual
offers a big dose Kittling Ridge spirits, and each cask has a
of fruit, some Estate Wines different level of charring.
oak spice, and and Spirits fits Only when the whiskies
then a rich the bill perfectly. have been aged for between
caramel hit. It sits close to the six and 10 years are they
The finish is beaches of Lake blended and finished for
drier, spicier, Erie and about a further six months in oak
and longer than 40 miles (65 km) casks that have previously
many Canadian away from contained sherry made
whiskies. Canadian Club Classic Niagara Falls. by Hall himself.
Valleyfield, Canada’s only French- satisfying and quite intense from a three-column
speaking distillery, was once part finish. Impressive stuff. continuous still and aged
of a strong whiskeymaking region. for about three years. The
flavoring spirits are distilled
The resulting whiskey puts Palliser in a one-column still and
to rest once and for all the Lethbridge, Alberta
matured for about six years.
erroneous assumption that In a break with conventional
Canadian whiskies are bland Palliser Distillery lies about practice, the 6-year-old
and uninteresting. It has a two hours’ drive from the flavoring whiskies are mixed
varied and impressive taste US border and is the home into the base spirit when it is
profile that makes it not just of the Black Velvet Distilling newly distilled and before it
unique to Canada, but Company—a subsidiary is matured.
unique in the entire of Gilbey, the gin makers. The resulting whiskey is
world of whiskey. If Gilbey launched Black pleasant enough, without
you’re looking for hope Velvet Whiskey just after setting the world on fire.
for the future of World War II, and Black Velvet 40% ABV
Canadian whiskey, this opened the Palliser plant The nose is malty, fresh, and
distillery is surely it. as the demand for spicy; the palate clean and
Kittling Ridge does Canadian whiskey with a nice balance between
also produce a exploded. As we sweetness and spice. As for
couple of more know, though, the the finish, it heads for the
conventional boom days weren’t set exit signs almost immediately.
whiskies, in the shape to last, and Gilbey’s
of Pure Gold original whiskey
and the recently distillery was shut Valleyfield
released Mountain down and production Valleyfield, Quebec
Rock. The latter of other spirits
comes in an brought to Palliser. Quebec is, of course, the
unbreakable plastic Now the plant is French-speaking part of
bottle—its sales pitch best known for Canada, and Valleyfield is
being that it is Black Velvet making Smirnoff. the world’s only French-
“easy to pack Canadian Black Velvet is also speaking distillery outside
when traveling.” Whiskey produced here again, France. Maybe the French
Forty Creek Barrel and still enjoys influence has rubbed off on
Select 40% ABV l Assertive and considerable success, selling the whiskey production,
inviting on the nose, Forty in the region of two million because several of this large
Creek Barrel Select is full cases worldwide. However, it distillery’s whiskies are of
of plummy sherry and fruity very much plays second the highest quality.
promise. The palate is fiddle to the world-famous Also known as the Old
fullsome, with chunky vodka brand. Schenley Distillery, Valleyfield
orange fruit, chocolate, The base neutral spirit for lies about 30 miles (50 km)
and spice, followed by a Black Velvet is produced outside Montreal. It was
CANADA 233
once part of a proud large open-top fermenters,

distilling region in Quebec, and produces its flavoring Ladies
where there were eight rye in copper pot still Ingredients:
distilleries 45 years ago. Now doublers. The system seems A little over 2 measures
Valleyfield is the last one. to have been tailormade to (60 ml ) of Canadian whiskey
Originally a brewery, it produce a surprisingly 2 dashes of Pernod
was acquired by Schenley— characterful corn spirit, and 2 dashes of
which had been successfully it’s this that lies at the heart Angostura bitters
producing spirits in of some of its award- 2 dashes of Anisette
Pennsylvania—at the end winning whiskies. These
of World War II. New include the Gibson’s range Method: Fill a mixing
stillhouses and warehouses and the Schenley whiskies. glass with ice. Add all the
were built and, as the Schenley Golden Wedding ingredients and shake.
demand for Canadian 40% ABV lOne of Canada’s Strain the liquid into chilled
whiskey soared, it was best-sellers, Schenley Golden cocktail glass.
expanded in the 1960s. Wedding is a young and
As early as 1950, the stylish, but ordered, whiskey.
distillery was producing Everything about it is light,
8‑year-old whiskies which smooth, and impeccably
are said to have been of well behaved.
exceptional quality. They Schenley OFC 40% ABV l The
included Gibson Straight name OFC stands for
Rye and a straight bourbon. Original Fine Canadian,
The distillery is now a whiskey produced for the
capable of producing about domestic market as an 8-
5.5 million gallons (25 year-old, as opposed to the
million liters) of spirit each 6-year-old version that is
year. Not all of it is whiskey, exported to the US. OFC
however. Vodka and rum is defined by its rich toffee
have been produced at the and vanilla characteristics.
distillery, which is now
owned by Kentucky bourbon
producers Barton Brands, Winchester Cellars
who bought it just before the Vancouver Island
end of the millennium. www.winchestercellars.com Ken Winchester and the German
Barton own Black Velvet Open to visitors
pot still that he is using to distill
and so have a sister distillery peated malt from Scotland.
(Palliser, see above) in Alberta. It is fitting that the last of
Quebec is well placed to the distilleries to be featured Ken has a 55-gallon (250-
meet the demands of in the Canadian section is liter) German pot still, which
America’s eastern seaboard; Winchester Cellars, because he says is “small but
while Alberta can satisfy it is from microdistillers sophisticated.” With it, he is
the needs of the west. like this that the future of experimenting with unpeated
That’s only part of the Canadian whiskey might and lightly peated Scottish
story though. The distillery well develop and be defined. malt, though he is in talks
has been designed with Winchester Cellars is a with local Canadian barley
flexibility in mind, and can highly respected wine producers and plans to
produce a range of different producer on Vancouver experiment with peat from
styles of whiskies. It boasts Island, the biggest wine the island. In time, he says,
growing area in Canada. he wants the whiskey to be
Established by Ken made entirely with produce
Winchester 25 years ago, it from the island. He will
has expanded gradually and mature the spirit he produces
is now turning its attention in the finest French oak
to single malt whiskey, casks, which he has already
though it has some way to sourced for his winemaking.
go before it produces its first A new distillery is always
bottle for consumption. a cause for celebration. And
Ken Winchester has a one that adds more variety
long history in distilling, to the marketplace is even
but mainly of brandy and more reason to cheer. As for
In the early 1980s, Valleyfield grappa. Now he is intent on future of Canadian whiskey,
Distillery filled its three millionth producing premium single it’s further proof that the
barrel of whiskey. malt whiskey commercially. embers still burn brightly.
whiskey nations 235
japan
The first grain spirit made in Japan would possibly have been a
form of shochu made in Kyushu (where a barley-based spirit is
still made today), and there are records of yoshu (foreign spirits)
being made at the end of the 19th century in Japan.
O
ne of the firms experimenting In 1929, Japan’s first whiskey was
with yoshu was Gisuke Konishi, introduced. Called Shirofuda (“White
which was selling something Label”), it was a blend of Yamazaki
that it called whiskey in the late 1880s. malt and grain spirit from the firm’s
Shinjiro Torii, a nephew of its owner, Osaka distillery. By the start of the next
was employed at the firm before he left decade, Yamazaki’s whiskies were being
in 1899 to establish his own liquor retail exported. Then, in 1934, Taketsuru left.
and importing venture, Kotobukiya. By It appears that he and Torii were
1919 his brand, “Tory’s Finest Liqueur suffering from the distilling equivalent of
Scotch Whisky,” was being sold. Torii musical differences. Taketsuru argued that
had the whiskey bug—now he needed a the distillery should be located in the cool
distillery. By the start of the 1920s, Torii north, not in the middle of humid
had bought a large tract of land between Honshu. His preference was for peaty
Kyoto and Osaka to build his distillery. whiskies, whereas Torii felt that a lighter
All that was missing was a whiskeymaker. style would better suit the Japanese palate
Enter Masataka Taketsuru. and have greater commercial appeal.
A scion of a sake brewing family
from Hiroshima, Taketsuru was sent to Cool northern climes
Glasgow in 1918 to study whiskeymaking Taketsuru founded Dai-nippon-kaju. To
by Kihei Abe of Osaka-based distiller locate the perfect spot for a distillery, he
Settsu Shuzo. Although Takesuru studied followed his instinct and went to Japan’s
chemistry at Glasgow University, he northernmost island, Hokkaido. Here,
gained his whiskeymaking experience at Yoichi, he found everything he felt he
at first hand, with apprenticeships at needed to make whiskey his way: peat,
Longmorn and Hazelburn distilleries (see barley, a cold climate, and plentiful water
also p248). In 1920 he returned to Japan, supplies. In 1934, Yoichi Distillery started
along with his Scottish wife, and was its production. Torii’s firm Kotobukiya
soon snapped up by Torii as manager of now had a rival, and this duopoly has
Yamazaki, Japan’s first malt distillery. dominated Japanese whiskey ever since.
Kotobukiya pressed on with a raft of
Advertised here in Tokyo, Suntory was the first new brands, though it wasn’t until the
whiskey produced in Japan and remains a leading end of World War II that the Japanese
brand, famous at home and abroad. whiskey industry could start in earnest.
236 whiskey nations
By then Taketsuru had JAPAN’S mixed into the

changed the name of his firm DISTILLERIES domestic blends.
to Nikka, while, in 1952, Torii +RNNDLGR Accordingly, Nikka
founded a chain of bars, called <2,&+,
6DSSRUR bought Ben Nevis
Tory’s, to promote its whiskies. Distillery in Scotland,
By now, other distillers were joining 12+(-,
while Takara followed
in. Hombu began distilling in suit, buying Tomatin
Kagoshima Prefecture in the early - $ 3$ 1
(then Scotland’s largest
1950s, while in 1956 Daikoku-budoshu single malt distillery). In
6(1'$,
converted a winery on the slopes of 1994 Suntory joined the
Mount Asama into its Karuizawa +RQVKX overseas adventure,
Distillery. Shochu distiller .$58,=$:$
+$.86+8 7RN\R
buying Morrison
Takara also got in on the *27(0%$
Bowmore and taking
act, making whiskey for .\RWR a stake in Macallan.
<$0$=$.,
its King brand at the 2VDND All were brought back
Shirakawa Distillery in down to earth three years
6KLNRNX
Fukushima (see p251). later when the Asian financial
It was around this .\XVKX crisis hit. Sales plummeted and,
time that the mizuwari against expectations, did not bounce
style of drinking back. Like their colleagues in Scotland,
whiskey long and Japanese distillers believed that each new
heavily diluted became the preferred way generation would consume whiskey in
to imbibe among the “salarymen” who ever-larger quantities. The decline may
helped fuel Japan’s postwar economic have been initiated by a financial crisis,
boom. They also helped to fuel a boom but it was also due to a generational shift
for Japanese whiskey. away from dark spirits and toward lighter
alternatives. In Britain and the US,
the rise of suntory vodka was in the ascendency; in Japan
New brands continued to appear, along it was the turn of shochu.
with a new dominant personality. Keizo The downturn in sales put most
Saji, Shinjiro Torii’s son, took over as distilleries in mothballs; others closed
president of Kotobukiya in 1963 and forever. The consequent whiskey surplus
renamed the firm Suntory (a combination forced distillers to find new ways to sell
of the firm’s port brand Akadama, which their stock. As in Scotland, single malt
translates as “red ball,” aka “sun,” and was the answer, and that is
Torii’s surname). Under his stewardship, what is leading the
new brands Suntory Royal, Red, White, Japanese revival.
and Reserve all appeared—the last in
1969, the same year that Taketsuru’s
firm (now called Nikka) started whiskey
production at its new Sendai Distillery.
In 1973 a further two plants
opened: Gotemba, a joint venture
between Kirin breweries and
Seagram; and Suntory’s
Hakushu, one of the world’s
largest malt distilleries.
By the end of the 1980s
the industry was in
expansionist mode and
needing to guarantee
supplies of Scotch to be
Hakushu, which is owned by

Suntory, was the world’s largest
malt distillery in the mid-1980s.
JAPAN 237
Distilleries and Malts

Despite the industry’s setback in the mid-1990s, there are signs of a new
confidence in Japanese whiskeymaking. With more interest in quality malts,
it is clear that Japanese whiskey is unique and can exist on its own terms.
Gotemba Distillery
GOTEMBA was built in 1973 by
Shibanta 970, Gotembashi, Canada’s Seagram.
Shizuoka
www.kirin.co.jp
a single column
Open to visitors
still, a linked
column still, and
At 2,000 ft (620 m) above sea a doubler (as
level, Gotemba is cool, and used by Kentucky
the maturation profile is, whiskeymakers) to
therefore, similar to that of produce three very
Suntory’s Hakushu Distillery different styles of
(see p239). That is beneficial, grain whiskey. All
the firm believes, for longer Scotland’s Strathisla Distillery the spirits are aged in
ageing. There’s a further (see p74), an ex-Seagram American oak barrels.
similarity with that alpine plant. The distillation is Today, Gotemba is
distillery, as both were built run so as to maximize the Japanese-owned. When
in 1973, during the Japanese interaction between vapor Seagram sold its distilling
whiskey boom. Gotemba is, and copper, which assists in interests, the drinks firm
however, the only example the creation of a light spirit. Kirin bought back its share
of a foreign firm—in this The grain distillery houses of the business—and
case the Canadian distiller three different types of still: snapped up the Four Roses
Seagram—investing in the
infrastructure of the finding the right location
Japanese distilling industry.
The style is similar to that Picking a site for a distillery is never an easy task. A number of
of Hakushu, though whether different criteria need to considered. Water is an obvious one;
this is due to altitude or a ease of access to market is another. Space comes into the
result of the “Seagram equation too. This last issue is of no concern to Kirin, the
template” is unclear. What brewer that owns Gotemba. If you stand on the viewing
is certain is that Kirin (the platform on the top of the distillery, there is nothing in front of
present owner) believes that it you but the slopes of Mount Fuji. The area behind is also clear,
is making a genuine Japanese as it is used as a Japanese Defense Force training site. While
style—delicate and light, many distillers may balk at building their still between an
and designed to accompany
active volcano and a bombing range, it doesn’t appear to
the country’s cuisine.
Not overly constrained by concern the workers at Gotemba. The main issue for choosing
space considerations, the site the site was the plentiful supply of lava-filtered snow melt,
is sprawling. The production which flows from Fuji-san. Its location, between Tokyo and
unit is surprisingly small, Osaka, allowed the firm quick access to Japan’s two largest
however, with a malt plant conurbations. It took three years of searching to find the site.
in one room and a grain
The snow-covered slopes of Mount
distillery in another. Four
Fuji provide water for Gotemba.
types of malt, from unpeated
to heavily peated, are used,
and the Japanese model of
crystal clear wort and a long,
cool fermentation in stainless
steel (using, in this case,
one of three yeasts cultured
at the plant) is employed
to assist in the creation of
all-important esters.
The four pot stills were
modeled on those at
238 whiskey nations
the hakushu story

Hakushu is spectacularly situated in the “Japanese Alps,” a three-hour
bullet train ride from all the bustle of Tokyo. Above the distillery rise
the granite slopes of Mount Kai-Komagatake, while opposite it looms
the active volcano Mount Yatsugatake.
The air at Hakushu is clean and water that attracted Keizo Saji (son
cool, the first indication that the of Suntory’s founder, Shinjiro Torii)
distillery sits at 2,300 ft (700 m) to the location, not only for its
above sea level—more than twice purity and softness, but also
as high as Scotland’s highest because of the volumes that
single-malt distillery. The could be captured from the
maximum summer rivers that flow off the
temperature reaches 82˚F surrounding mountains.
(28˚C)—one reason why this Hakushu was one of the
part of the country is a distilleries built as a result of
popular destination for city- the Japanese whiskey boom and
bound people seeking a short it was built on a grand scale.
respite from the stifling Even so, in 1983 Suntory
summer plains. Hakushu decided to build a second wing,
Despite the distillery site 10-Year-Old Hakushu East, which made it
covering 9 million sq ft (850,000 sq the largest malt whiskey producer in
meters), there is an absence of any the world. These days, things have
thoughts of industrialization. Hakushu, been reined back considerably. The
for all its size, blends into the deep original distillery, with its large pot stills,
green forests. Over half of the site remains mothballed, and production
is kept as a nature reserve, and the centers on Hakushu East. Even so, the
distillery’s (extremely soft) process multiple variations on a theme, which
water is also bottled and sold by owner typify Japanese whiskeymaking, remain
Suntory (therefore making the perfect the central distilling ethos. Two types
dilutant for the single malt). It was the of barley are imported, unpeated and
heavily peated. This, in theory, will
Hakushu employs a great variety of pot stills to
create many different distilling conditions and
allow the distiller to blend barleys to
therefore a wide range of whiskies. produce even more variations.
Japan 239
Distillery (see p189) as or fall abruptly. There’s the spirit. All this esoteric
well. Since then, a new even one spirit still with a distilling theory becomes
brand, Fujisan, has been detachable lyne arm— academic, however, once the
launched as both a one arm points up, single malt is tasted.
single malt and a blend. another goes down. The Hakushu 10-year-old 43% ABV
Hopefully, this will different distilling Light in character with a
signal the start of conditions created by slight floral, almost pinelike
a concerted push this set-up will yield aroma, and just a hint
behind Gotemba’s dramatically different of smoke.
whiskies. spirits … and that is Hakushu 12-year-old 43% ABV
Fuji-Gotemba the point. Hakushu This is in many ways the
18-year-old 43% ABV was not built as a perfect introduction to the
Classic Gotemba distillery to produce Hakushu style. Clean and
lightness of character one style of bottled pure, with touches of light
on the nose, with single malt, but was grass, cut flowers, pine, and
biscuit and pear hints. developed to make as a little peach juice. A hint
The same leathery wide a variety of of linseed oil indicates its
note as Fujisanroku, flavoring whiskies as relative youth. The palate
but slightly more oily. Fuji-Gotemba possible for Suntory’s starts very sweet, and then
The palate is dry and 18-Year-Old range of blends. the peachy note returns
slightly tannic, with It is impossible before nuts come back
some sweet biscuit notes and for a visitor to make sense toward the (very clean)
tobacco. The finish is nutty. of the complicated set-up finish. A light whiskey,
Fuji-Gotemba single grain here. A quick look but a well-balanced one.
15-year-old 43% ABV l One of below the stills, for Hakushu
a very limited number of example, reveals 18-year-old 43% ABV
Japanese single grains twice the number of The oak is extremely
available. The Gotemba receiving tanks that well balanced—
Distillery uses maize for the you would expect. almost restrained in
base cereal. The whiskey is Whatever their the distillery’s older
very sweet, almost like a methods, Suntory expression. The
liqueur, with some honey, are keeping them flowers have shifted
sesame, and plenty of to themselves. to a more general
coconut from ageing in An on-site vegetal character,
American oak barrels. The cooperage carries alongside some green
palate is extremely soft, with out recharring and plum. The peach
a mix of succulent spirit and repair work on juice has moved into
buttery wood. different types of Hakushu mango, while the
cask, all of which are 18-Year-Old green grass has
held in 22 warehouses. shifted to dry hay.
HAKUSHU It is estimated that 35 million There’s a fresh acidity cut
Torihara 2913–1, Hakushucho,
gallons (160 million liters) of with a delicate sweetness.
Komagun, Yamanashi whiskey are maturing on site. The palate shows more
www.suntory.co.jp
Hakushu’s whiskies are a toasty oak. Best drunk with
Open to visitors
crucial component of water on the side.
Suntory’s blends, but the
The key to Hakushu lies distillery is also building a
in the stillhouse. The reputation for its single
assortment of equipment malt. It first appeared as
at this distillery is a “Pure Malt” with no
nothing short of age statement in 1988,
astonishing. There but today the range
are six wash stills comprises 10, 12,
and five spirit stills— and 18-year-old
all bar one direct expressions. The
fired—but of a wide distiller claims that
variety of type, size, its reputation is
and shape. They run partially due to the
from minuscule altitude of the
“Macallan-type” distillery, which
pots to large “lamp- encourages low-
glass” monsters. pressure distillation, Hakushu Distillery handles the
Lyne arms stretch Hakushu which allows fewer important process of charring its
upward, dip gently, 12-Year-Old heavier elements into casks at its on-site cooperage.
240 whiskey nations
HANYU
www.onedrinks.com
Even in the complicated

world of Japanese whiskey,
Hanyu occupies a special
place. This is a distillery
whose single malts—
masterminded by master
distiller Ichiro Akuto—have
exploded onto the whiskey
scene, picking up rave
reviews and international
prizes. Yet, there is currently
no Hanyu Distillery.
Akuto’s family started in the Yoichi/Karuizawa vein of Karuizawa is a small-scale,
liquor trade in the early 17th fuller-bodied, peated boutique distillery that focuses
century when it established a whiskies. This adversely on one particular style of whiskey.
sake brewery in Chichibu. In impacted on sales, though,
1941, the decision was made as in the 1980s, Japanese hogshead and then given
to expand into other whiskey drinkers tended a period of finishing in
areas, and Ichiro’s to knock back their Japanese oak. The nose is
grandfather, Isouji drams mizuwari style (see a mix of the softly fragrant
Akuto, built a new sake p236). Though Ichiro (vanilla pod, lemon zest,
brewery and shochu Akuto had plans to white chocolate) and the
distillery in the town launch a range of exotic—even some black
of Hanyu. Five years single-malt olive tapenade. Light smoke
later his firm, Toa expressions, a adds another layer. The
Shuzo, began to downturn in the palate follows in this vein
blend whiskey, though market bankrupted and demonstrates the ability
it was not until the Toa Shuzo. In 2000 of the best Japanese whiskies
early 1980s that the it was sold to a sake to have complexity while
firm began to distil and shochu producer, retaining a very bright
its own whiskey. The and the distillery character. The finish is
Japanese obsession dismantled. slightly tarry.
with the right water Thankfully, Ichiro
resulted in supplies Akuto received
being trucked Hanyu Single backing from sake KARUIZAWA
31 miles (50 km) Cask 1988 brewer Sasanogawa Maseguchi 1795–2, Oaza,
from Chichibu to Shuzo to buy back Miyotamachi, Kitasakugun, Nagano
the distillery. much of the whiskey stocks, www.mercian.co.jp
The firm’s style (sold under which he began releasing Open to visitors
the Chichibu and Golden under the Ichiro’s Malt label
Horse labels) was in the (see p251), as the Card Series. “Boutique” is the term that
The reaction, particularly best describes Karuizawa.
Karuizawa’s barley on the export market, has While most of Japan’s other
been astonishing. The distilleries sprawl over huge
This could be the only malt whiskies are revealed as being sites, it is squeezed into a few
distillery in the world still highly complex, medium to buildings on the outskirts of
insisting on using Golden full bodied, but with classic Miyota-cho. Behind it rises
Promise barley exclusively. Japanese precision of flavor. the smoking cone of Mount
Karuizawa’s whiskeymakers The happy ending to the Asama. Originally, this site
believe that this barley story is that, in 2007, Ichiro was a vineyard and the
strain gives a heavier and Akuto began distilling at his buildings housed a winery.
more oily character and is new distillery in Chichibu. After World War II its then
better suited for extended The Card Series will be owner, Daikoku-budoshu, in
maturation. These days, the eked out until his new malts common with a number of
barley is unpeated. Until the are mature. other domestic liquor
mid-1990s, however, heavily- Hanyu vintage 1988, Number 1 producers decided to join
peated malt was used, and drinks company 55.6% ABV • This Japan’s nascent whiskey
this type still appears in was bottled for Hanyu’s UK business. In 1962, it merged
the older bottlings. importer. The whiskey was with Mercian, another
aged in an American oak drinks business.
japan 241
JAPANESE WHISKeY: WHAT MAKES IT DIFFERENT?

Strip away all the clues that you are in Japan—cicadas, shrines, bento
boxes in the café, the signage—and a visit to a Japanese distillery is
rather familiar for the visitor already well versed in Scottish malt
distillation. There are mash tuns, washbacks, double distillation in
pot stills, and maturation (predominantly) in the same mix of woods.
How do Japanese distillers There are no cereal notes.

craft a style of whiskey Even a non-malty Scotch
that, though similar to its will seem to be filled with
Scottish cousins, has its cereal notes when compared
own individual— to a Japanese malt. In order
Japanese—character? to achieve this, Japanese
To start, maybe it is best distillers avoid any solids
to define that Japaneseness. from the grist being brought
The difference was best through from the mash tun
expressed by Dr. Mas Suntory is the best- to the washback. Scottish
known producer of
Minabe at Suntory, who Japanese whiskey. distillers talk of clear and
talked of a “transparency” cloudy worts, but none have
of flavor that exists in Japanese malts the clarity of wort achieved in Japan.
and is not present in Scottish ones. A wide mix of yeasts, some unique
On one hand this means a precision of to a single distillery, is also employed,
character, an ordered array of aromas allowing the creation of distinct
and flavors that seem to line up on the flavors, while the widespread use
palate and can be tasted almost of long fermentation helps to build
individually while still making up a complexity and aromatic elements
complex whole. This isn’t to say that and reduces cereal elements.
these are light whiskies. Transparency Japan itself has a part to play. Its
is spot on. You can see into them. climate has an influence on the way
Another defining element is that the whiskey matures. As Masataka
Japanese single malt is not malty. Taketsuru says: “whiskeymaking is an
act of cooperative creation between
Suntory uses wooden mash tuns, like these,
as well as more modern stainless-steel tuns to the blessings of nature and the
create further variety in the spirit they produce. wisdom of man.”
242 whiskey nations
The differences between

Karuizawa and its colleagues sendai’s setting
is clear from the start. No Nikka’s second malt distillery is set among the mountains on
creation of a range of flavors the road to the cherry orchards, mountain temples, and hot
here. The distillery is set up springs of Tone, in Miyagi Prefecture to the northeast of Tokyo.
to make one style of malt Its large buildings are scattered across the river plain,
whiskey, end of story.
separated by mini plantations of pine and cradled by the
The fermentation process
waters of the Nikkawa and Hirose rivers.
is intriguing and appears to
take its inspiration from sake It was the confluence of these two rivers at this point that
brewing. A small percentage prompted Masataka Taketsuru to start building here in 1969,
of wort is pumped into a at the end of a three-year search for a suitable location for a
tank and yeast is added. second distillery. Company legend has it that Masataka came
Only once this “starter” is here, tasted the water and pronounced it good. In an echo of
active is it transferred to the the founding of Yamazaki, he also felt the humidity from the
washback where the rest of rivers was conducive to a good maturation profile.
the worts and a small extra
amount of yeast is added.
The stillhouse—actually, it Sadly, Karuizawa has been Karuizawa style: huge and
is more of a stillroom—gives mothballed for a number of meaty with truffle/dried
the impression of being years. There was a frisson of shiitake mushroom, even
slightly too small for the pots hope in 2007 when Mercian hints of balsamic—a sure
it contains, even though they was bought by Kirin, though indication of greater age.
could hardly be described as it appears the brewer was The smoke is slightly sooty
gigantic. The necks of the more interested in that firm’s along with roast chestnut and
two pairs of wash and spirit wine business. Hopefully this a slight earthy note. The
stills arch into the wooden will change. The full-blooded sheer weight and heaviness of
rafters. Distillation is relaxed, Karuizawa style would make character is slightly atypical
and maturation in the ivy- a wonderful counterpoint to of most Japanese malts. One
festooned, fungus-blackened the delicate Gotemba malts. for after a meal.
stone warehouses is Karuizawa Vintage 1988
predominantly in European 59.8% ABV • A rich melange of
oak ex-sherry barrels, fruits (black cherry, green fig) SENDAI (MIYAGIKYO)
which have been alongside chocolate, Nikka 1, Aobaku, Sendaishi,
remade to hold 88 eucalyptus, and a Miyagiken
gallons (400 liters) — vegetal aroma that www.nikka.com
less to do with wood recalls wet grass or Open to visitors
interaction and more bamboo. The palate
to do with fitting into is where the deeper There is some confusion as
the racks. notes begin to show. to what this site is actually
The Japanese Tongue-coating with called. The distillery’s name
climate has its part layers of flavor originally was Sendai,
to play too. Winters and good weight. because that is the closest
can be very cold— Long finish. major city. This was of no
the train from Karuizawa concern until Nikka decided
Tokyo is often 15‑year-old 40% ABV to start bottling it as a single
filled with skiers This runs counter malt. Calling your brand
then—but summers to most of the after a city with over one
are sultry and distillery’s bottlings million people is akin to a
humid, causing the Karuizawa as it appears to have Scottish distiller naming its
maturation to vary 17-Year-Old come from an single malt “Glasgow.”
its pace markedly— American oak A new name was devised:
another Japanese twist in (ex‑bourbon) cask. Lighter Miyagikyo. Kyo is Japanese
what at first seems a classic, in character with some for “valley,” Miyagi is the
old-style Scottish set-up. grassiness but a soft, fruity name of the prefecture, so
Taste Karuizawa and the weight as well: ripe pear, the name could be loosely
terms “fat,” “full,” “power,” baked peach, honey. translated as “Glen Miyagi,”
“sweet,” and “weight” Karuizawa’s chewy quality is which is more appropriate.
appear regularly. These are there on the palate along with These days, the single malt is
robust but balanced whiskies. coffee and some smoke (the called Miyagikyo, while the
A range of aged malts and malt was peated until 1994). distillery itself remains as
vintage-dated bottlings is Karuizawa 17-year-old 40% ABV Sendai—though some early
available as well as occasional This is more in line with what bottlings of the malt have
releases by other bottlers. is thought of as the classic Sendai on the label.
japan 243
The plant has been expanded interact with the copper, one made from 100
twice (in 1979 and 1989) helping to create a light percent malted barley.
since its founding, and now style of spirit. The firm has launched,
has malt and grain distilleries Ageing takes place in limited quantities,
and extensive warehousing. in 18 warehouses a “Coffey Grain.”
Though the capacity of the scattered around the Malt devotees who
malt site is 132,000 gallons site. American oak taste this whiskey
(600,000 liters) a year, it is hoggies are the are usually pleasantly
currently operating at just favored type of surprised.
one third of that. The whole cask, though some In the export
process is computerized and European butts are markets, Miyagikyo
monitored from a central still used. They are is somewhat
control room. only ever stored two overshadowed by
As far as malt production high as this is an its more robust
goes, variety is the key, and earthquake zone. northern brother,
the approach is similar to The Miyagikyo whiskies Yoichi, but its make
the one taken at Yoichi, Five types of whiskey is more in keeping
though here only unpeated are made, but the Miyagiko with the Japanese
and lightly peated malt is standard Miyagikyo 15-Year-Old style of estery and
used. Two lauter tuns is fruity with an lightly fruity
produce worts that run as aromatic, estery lift. It’s a whiskies. And these single
clear as the Nikkawa’s water. lighter dram than Yoichi, malts possess an appealing
Different yeasts are used with less peat and a depth of character.
to help produce a range floral edge that drifts Miyagikyo 10-year-old 45% ABV
of flavors in the wash, into soft fruits: fresh in The standard bottled
which ferments slowly younger examples; dried product shows Miyagikyo to
in 22 stainless-steel or caramelized in be a gentle and fruity malt
washbacks. older expressions. with light floral touches and
Distillation takes The grain plant good depth. The 10-year-old
place in eight stills contains two Coffey is light and aromatic with
(four from the stills for continuous hints of lily and fennel on
original distillery distillation of grain the nose, with a butterscotch
and a second spirit. The stills nuttiness. Very clean and
quartet), which are were installed in precise. This is a medium-
set up to run in 1999, and provide bodied malt with a light
pairs. They are spirit for Nikka’s texture, touches of tangerine,
large and heavy- blends. A number and a pinelike finish.
bottomed, and of styles are made:
have fat necks that a malt/corn blend, a Sendai has a beautiful setting on
allow plenty of time Miyagiko 100 percent corn a watery plain where the Hikkawa
for the vapor to 12-Year-Old distillate, as well as and Hirose rivers meet.
244 whiskey nations
Miyagikyo 12-year-old 45% ABV surprised at being in what While Rikyu came looking
By the time the whiskey has seems to be the country for tranquillity, Yamazaki’s
reached 12 years old, the after the clustering chaos of founder, Shinjiro Torii (see
flavor has filled out with Kyoto. The noise of cicadas p238), was more excited by
dried peach and heavy is deafening as you walk the misty humidity generated
vanilla overtones. Medium- through narrow streets, over by the river waters. These,
bodied, it also shows a little a level crossing, and on he felt, would assist with
more oaky grip than the towards a looming brown maturation at this, Japan’s
younger example. building. Over the tracks, first malt whiskey distillery.
Miyagikyo you arrive in a wooded and The main distillery
15-year-old 45% ABV landscaped garden. There, buildings that can be seen
By 15 years everything has one path leads to the huge today were built when
deepened and softened. distillery, while another Yamazaki was doubled in
Toffee, chocolate, and takes you through the size in 1958. They are not
ripe soft fruits on the torii gate to a Shinto at all pretty, and are topped
nose. There’s also a shrine high in the trees. with two rounded pyramidal
touch of raisin on the The shrine is an protuberances that give the
palate. The most indication of the plant the air of a stylized
complex of the three, auspicious nature frog. Rather than being in
though the fresh of this location, any way decorative, though,
grassy notes of youth which is one reason they originally had a
are still discernable. why, in the 16th functional use as pagoda-
century, it was style chimneys for the
chosen as the site distillery’s on-site maltings.
Yamazaki of the first tea house The maltings closed in 1972,
Yamazaki 5–2–2,
built by Sen no and now, in common with
Honcho, Mishimagun, Rikyu, the creator every other Japanese
Osaka of chanoyu (the tea distillery, Yamazaki imports
www.suntory.co.jp
Yamazaki ceremony). He was its malted barley, either
25-Year-Old drawn by the fact from Scotland or Australia.
Open to visitors
that Yamazaki is at There were further
Arriving at Yamazaki is the confluence of four rivers: expansions in 1980 and
unlike the approach to any namely Katsura, Kamo, 1989 as the Japanese whiskey
other distillery. You exit at Uji and Kizu; all four flow boom took hold. If you had
a small train station, into the Yodo river. visited over the last decade
or so, however, you would
a new age of connoisseurship have found a very different
sight. Like every other
The slump in sales of Japanese blended whiskey from the late Japanese distillery, Yamazaki
1990s left distillers with excess whiskey. Suntory had launched was on an enforced cut-back
Yamazaki as a single malt in 1984, but the firm’s main business in production as its owner
was blend based. However, premium whiskey and malt were to Suntory tried to balance
receive ever-greater focus as Suntory tried to persuade a new its stock surplus.
generation of drinkers to drink less quantity but better quality. The tough times appear to
This necessitated creating brands that would be receding, however, and in
appeal to this new consumer. The malt-drinkers’ 2005 Yamazaki had yet
palate, as they discovered, is different to that of another makeover,
conceivably its most radical
the blend lover. The old ways of mizuwari (lots
yet. While the first Yamazaki
of ice, lots of water) with whiskey as a thirst
had large steam-fired stills,
quencher was being replaced by a new and the 1989 rebuild saw
connoisseurship where malts (and top blends) medium-sized steam-fired
were served as shots with glasses of iced stills being brought in, the
water on the side. Mizuwari drinkers needed new Yamazaki has small,
light flavored whiskey; the new premium direct-fired stills. These have
drinkers demanded flavor above all else. been introduced with the
A change in approach by the consumer, aim of making a heavier
Suntory felt, justified a change in approach at style of whiskey. A mix of
the distillery. Scottish distillers may tweak condensers and worm tubs
their plant or wood policy to cope with shifts are also used. Production is
in demand. Suntory changed the stillhouse. now half of the previous
capacity, meaning that only
Yamazaki’s 1984 Single Malt one of the distillery’s two
mash tuns is being used.
japan 245
standard American oak blossom, dried herbs,

a plethora of styles barrel and hoggie and and a little oak. The
Unlike their Scottish European oak butts; but palate is quite sweet with
counterparts, Japanese also new oak and, most a hint of smoke before
distillers do not exchange exciting for whiskey the dense and fruity
whiskies for their blends. enthusiasts, Japanese character hits in the
The onus is, therefore, on oak (see p249). The middle of the
the firm’s distilling teams to originator remains at tongue, followed by
make a number of different the forefront of the the spices surging
styles at each site. Suntory’s new age of Japanese through. Very precise
way is to introduce as much whiskey. and classically
variation in the stillhouse as YAMAZAKI’s house style Japanese. There’s
possible. Japanese distillers The first malt some raisin and
become rather secretive distillery in Japan, coconut as well,
when asked about how Yamazaki produces suggesting a variety
many flavoring whiskies a wide range of Yamazaki of casks have been
they make, and Yamazaki is styles for Suntory’s 12-Year-Old used in the mix.
no exception in this regard. blender, Seiichi Yamazaki 18-year-
Koshimizu, to work with. old 43% ABV • With greater
The core style, however, age, Yamazaki acquires
The stillhouse remains one is a sweet, fruity single more influence from oak.
of the most remarkable malt, which almost seems The estery notes of the
in the whiskey world. There to slow down in the younger variants have
are six pairs of stills, mostly middle of the palate to been replaced with
running in tandem, but all reveal its full complexity. ripe apple, violet,
are differently shaped. It is a malt that appears to and a deep, sweet
The make that appears as benefit from a slightly longer oakiness that’s
a single malt is a medium- period in the cask. reminiscent of a walk
bodied, fruity malt with a Yamazaki 10-year-old in the woods in fall.
subtle depth in the middle of 40% ABV• The lightest of the This impression
the palate. (You might pick range, at 10 years of age, this continues on the
up some smoke on future Yamazaki expression has yet palate, where a
bottlings). Like all the to develop its defining mossy, pinelike
country’s whiskies, Yamazaki succulent fruitiness. There’s character
has a clarity of flavor that a spicy note in here, along is evident, along
clearly differentiates it from with some oak. A light with the classic
Scottish single malt. lunchtime drink. Yamazaki richness
In recent years Yamazaki Yamazaki 12-year-old 43% ABV in the middle of
has launched a range of This expression is very clean the mouth.
single-cask whiskies from and crisp with touches of An extremely Yamazaki
a wide variety of woods: the pineapple, citrus, flowers/ classy whiskey. 18‑Year-Old
The stills at Yamazaki Distillery

are in six pairs of varying shapes
and sizes, and lyne arm angles.
Pure snow melt from the slopes
of Mount Fuji supplies the
water for Gotemba Distillery.
248 whiskey nations
taketsuru’s scottish travels

Taketsuru’s experiences in making a classic oily, smoky, and
Scotland were of profound rich “Campbeltown” style. If that
importance to his approach to was his template, it was one that
whiskeymaking. His travels, all ran counter to the vision of his
meticulously recorded in a series first boss in Japan, Shinjiro Torii,
of notebooks, centered around a who wanted a more delicate
short period at Longmorn in whiskey and was happy with
Speyside, and a longer spell maturing in the warmer locations
of work experience at Hazelburn closer to the main markets of
in Campbeltown. Osaka, Kyoto, and Tokyo.
He returned to Japan convinced Masataka Taketsuru It is not surprising therefore
of a number of basics that he felt that after helping to establish
were essential in making great whiskey. Water Yamazaki, Taketsuru headed north to Hokkaido.
and barley were both a given. What was more It is a fanciful notion, but maybe the sight of
important was peat and a cold temperature the herring boats heading off into the Sea
for long, steady maturation. Taketsuru had of Japan near Yoichi reminded him of
experienced big, rich whiskies in Scotland— Campbeltown. More prosaically, there was
even today, Longmorn is one of the richer water and barley, peat close by, oak forests,
Speysiders, and though Hazelburn has long and the temperature was as close as he could
since gone, the distillery was known for find to that of Scotland.
you head here in the winter Now the barley arrives ready
YOICHI when snow lies thick on the peated from Scotland.
Kurokawacho 7–6, Yoichimachi,
ground and covers the red- Malting in Japan is simply
Yoichigun, Hokkaido roofed pagodas of the kiln. too expensive an option for
www.nikka.com
This is where Masataka the country’s distillers, who
Open to visitors
Taketsuru headed when are already faced with higher
he left Kotobukiya (now fixed costs than most whiskey
Japan’s most northerly Suntory) to set up on his own makers elsewhere.
distillery is situated in a in the 1930s (see also p235). In common with its
small fishing port of 24,000 Building started on the great rival, Nikka needs to
people on the east coast of Yoichi Distillery in 1934 and produce a wide selection of
the island of Hokkaido. the first spirit ran from the different flavored whiskies at
Mountains rise around it on stills two years later. By 1940 this one site, though the
three sides, and on the other Yoichi’s whiskies were on the approach is different to that
is the Sea of Japan. If you Japanese market. On the taken by Suntory. Although
were to sail due west you face of it, little has changed the single-malt bottlings are
would reach Vladivostok since then. Sadly, though, the
on the coast of Russia. Not kiln has been silent since the
surprisingly, perhaps, the 1960s. No longer is it
setting is reminiscent of being fired with peat
Scotland, particularly if cut for it in Ishikari.
Yoichi Distillery was founded in
the 1930s, and is Japan’s most
northerly whiskeymaking plant.
japan 249
all peaty, there is unpeated aiming to recreate whisky show: rich deep flavors
barley used here as well. In from Scotland. What he with an earthy, almost dusty,
addition, Nikka uses different actually succeeded in doing quality. The sooty smoke
strains of yeast in order to was to give birth to an remains, though by now
create a range of flavor entirely new and subtly the fruits are beginning to
profiles, while fermentation different family of whiskies. emerge. The palate has an
times (always on the long Yoichi 10-year-old 45% ABV interesting mix of burned
side), are varied to assist A rare creature in Japanese heather, liquorice, and
in this process. whiskey, Yoichi 10-year- cooked fruits.
The stills are all large and old is a slightly malty Robust, yet elegant.
plain—similar, Nikka likes to dram. The peated Yoichi 15-year-old
say, to the stills with which element is quite light on 45% ABVl By this stage,
the founder first worked at the nose, though giving the whiskey has added
Longmorn in Scotland. a salty note. Sweet another layer. The
Direct firing is used and toffee notes balance rough edges of the
the distillate is condensed things well. The 12-year-old have
in worm tubs. Varying cut palate is slightly oily been thoroughly
points will also assist in with sooty smoke on smoothed off, and
widening the flavor the back palate along this is as sleek as
spectrum, but the key with muted dried Yoichi gets. Citrus
at Yoichi is weight on flowers. Deep notes, light tannin,
the palate. These and full-flavored, plenty of rich oak,
are deep whiskies but with the and the ever-present
that need cool energy of youth. smoke, but there’s
maturation— Yoichi 12-year-old sufficient weight to
in a variety of 45% ABVl Here, the full Yoichi give balance. A
casks from both Yoichi character is on 15-Year-Old big whiskey.
European and
American oak— THE WEIRD WORLD OF JAPANESE OAK
to demonstrate
their full The aroma was familiar, yet alien—in its acidity and zestiness
complexity. reminiscent of a young rye whiskey, yet more perfumed and
Nikka has regular greatly more intense. It’s rare that you come across a completely
(though limited new aroma in whiskey, but this was one such moment. Seiichi
edition) bottlings Koshimizu, chief blender at Suntory, explained: “we say it
Yoichi from a wide smells of temples.” It was spot on. The aroma was of Japanese
10-Year-Old range of the incense, with the heady aromas of oudh, or aloeswood.
different styles It transpires that this whiskey (a single cask from Yamazaki)
made at the distillery.
had been matured in Japanese oak (Quercus mongolica). This is
Yoichi’s Whiskies
rare, as most Japanese oak has already been felled (some say to
It was a Yoichi whiskey
that helped to trigger the make coffins for British soldiers in World War II, others maintain
worldwide interest among as the result of the clearance program in Hokkaido to create
malt connoisseurs for pasture land). Distillers didn’t particularly like Japanese oak
Japanese whiskey. In 2001, casks, as they tended to leak, though they had to be used
the 10-year-old cask strength after World War II as there was no alternative. In addition,
won the inaugural “Best of blenders didn’t like the strong aroma the oak imparted,
the Best” blind tasting and as soon as ex-bourbon and ex-sherry casks
organized by Whisky were available, the industry switched. Suntory
Magazine. A year later, the coopered its last Japanese oak cask in 1975.
Scotch Malt Whisky Society Now, however, with the rise of single malt and of
broke with tradition and flavor, it is slowly finding favor once again.
bottled a single cask. Suntory has its own new plantation and has
From these two small started a very limited coopering program.
events, the start of Japanese Koshimizu-san is using Japanese oak as part
whiskey’s acceptance across of his blending palette, while Ichiro Akuto is
the world started. Yet
also laying down stock of new barrels. The
although these whiskies are
startling aroma may yet have a future.
among the fullest that are
created in Japan, they still
have the precision of flavor Ichiro’s Two of Clubs Malt, 2000 was
that defines the essential finished in Japanese oak, giving an
Japanese whiskey character. acidic finish to the whiskey.
Taketsuru may have been
250 whiskey nations
Brands and Blends

Japanese blends have made a great impact internationally in the last
decade, winning acclaim and awards. Unlike distilleries in most other
countries, those in Japan do not trade with competitors, so one distillery
will produce a wide range of whiskies to make up its blends.
The wood element appears now passed to the new owner

FUJISANROKU as notes of pine sap. of the company, which
Distillery: Gotemba
Water releases citrus oils, continues to bottle some old
elderflower, honeycomb, and stock. Golden Horse is not to
The newest brand to appear lime blossom. Estery and be confused with the Ichiro’s
from Kirin’s Gotemba perfumed. A delicate palate, Malt range (see opposite).
Distillery, Fujisanroku is but still offering a complex Golden Horse 8-year-old
bottled both as a blended array of flavors. A slight 40% ABV l A youthful and quite
whiskey and a single malt, so waxy note allows it to hold energetic attack on the nose
read the label carefully. The to the tongue. with an aroma rarely seen in
distillery style is light and Japanese whiskey—a touch
estery. The single malt has of branlike maltiness. Some
older malts up to 24 years old GOLDEN HORSE nutty oak as well. The palate
blended in with it. Distillery: Hanyu
is light and crisp with some
Fujisanroku single malt grip from the oak, which is, at
18‑year-old 43% ABV l The This is the brand name this point in its life, still
aroma shows good age: originally used by Toa Shuzo, fighting with the inherently
there is a slight leathery note which owned the old Hanyu sweet spirit rather than
combined with dried peach. Distillery. The trademark has working in harmony with it.
At Suntory’s Yamazaki Distillery,
the emphasis is on producing a
variety of flavors for the blends.
japan 251
Hibiki 30-Year-Old
HIBIKI
Producer: Suntory
Suntory’s flagship premium

blended whiskey was strength. The sweetness is Suntory’s sponsorship of golf
launched in 1989 to accentuated, touching on tournaments began in the early
commemorate the 90th golden syrup. There’s also 1970s, and has done much to
anniversary of the company’s some dried orange peel popularize the brand image.
founding. The 21-year-old and an aromatic note
followed in 1994. A decade reminiscent of cocoa shochu. The key
later the 30-year-old won the butter. Bigger in the production quirk
Trophy at the International mouth (thanks to the that sets it apart lies
Spirits Challenge, the first higher alcohol) with a in the fact that it
Japanese whiskey to do so. mix of raspberry has been filtered
The same whiskey won best and peach, caramel through bamboo.
blend in the World Whiskies toffee, and a nuttily Hokuto Pure malt
Awards in 2007. sweet finish. 12-Year-Old 40% ABV
Hibiki 17-year-old 43% ABV Hibiki 30-year-old This blended malt
There is a distinct fruitiness 43% ABV The multi- is very gentle on
to the nose mixed with some award winner is the nose, with some
more delicate estery notes, a huge in flavor with banana, pear, and
smooth, creamy sweetness, quite assertive wood cut flowers. A very
and a hint of citrus. The at first on the nose. soft palate too, with
palate is rich and filled with A polished walnut touches of sweet
vanilla, rosehip, black cherry, table somehow Hokuto spice, particularly
and a touch of firm oak. springs to mind. Pure Malt on the finish.
Complex and balanced. There are 12-Year-Old
Hibiki 17-year-old 50.5% ABV caramelized fruits
Suntory also bottles Hibiki and a touch of aniseed. The ICHIRO’S MALT
17-year-old at a higher flavors go deep, recalling Distillery: Hanyu
Oxford marmalade.
The effect is velvety This selection of single-cask
and rich. Not shy. bottlings is drawn from the
stock of whiskey that Ichiro
Akuto managed to buy back
Hokuto when his family distillery was
Producer: Suntory
sold in 2000. He is releasing
these slowly on to the market
This blended to bridge the period between
(vatted) malt was the end of the old distillery
created by and the release of whiskies
Suntory to try and from his new site (scheduled
appeal to a new to be complete in 2007). The
generation of whiskies were distilled
drinkers who were between 1985 and 2000 and
coming into each cask has been named
Hibiki 21-Year-Old Hibiki 17-Year-Old whiskey through after a different playing card;
252 whiskey nations
collectively they are

referred to as the
Card Series. Most of
them have been given
a period of secondary
maturation in a
selection of different
casks: American,
European, and
Japanese oak.
Ichiro’s Malt, Two of
Clubs, 2000 55% ABV l
Distilled in the
Hanyu Distillery’s
final year, this young
whiskey has been
finished in Japanese
oak. The nose is very
intense with some
vanilla as well as a
maraschino lift. The palate is creamy character. This then Ichiro Akuto is seen here taking
very soft and smooth initially, gives way to the fragrant, delivery of a copper pot still for
and water brings out a quite acidic finish that typifies his new distillery in 2007.
Japanese oak. Young, but
other distilleries with bags of character. alongside pineapple, lemon,
Ichiro’s Malt, Queen of and pine sap. The palate is
Situated in the town of Hearts, 1990 54% ABV l This equally complex. Though
Miyata in the Kiso mountain French-oak finished old, it has a floral freshness
range, Shinshu Distillery is member of the series and the smoke and oak
Japan’s highest. Owned by shows an interplay are never dominant.
Hombu, a shochu and between the fat and the Balanced.
liqueur producer, this small lean. The nose is round Ichiro’s Malt, Ace of
distillery with two pots was and plump with light Spades, 1985 55% ABV l
built in 1985 and sells its red fruits and a touch One of the oldest in
malt under the Komagatake of sweet wood. A the series, the Ace of
label. The distillery is light touch of smoke Spades (or the
currently silent. Hombu with an estery lift Motorhead malt, as
actually had been making gives an added some call it) was
whiskey off and on since perfume. The palate finished in ex-sherry
the early 1950s. Its first is lighter than barrels made from
distillery was in Kagoshima, expected, though Spanish oak. This has
on the southerly island of there is a succulent given it an aroma of
Kyushu, the spiritual home quality to the middle chocolate-covered
of shochu. It was making palate. The French Ichiro’s Malt, raisin, and treacle
whiskey until 1984, but the oak gives a spicy kick King of with a hint of
plant has now reverted to to the finish. Diamonds creosotelike smoke.
the production of sweet Ichiro’s Malt, King of The palate is very
potato shochu. The Diamonds, 1988 56% ABV thick and chewy, like
Satsuma single malt from One of the most complex melting toffee in the
the distillery is still available. of the Card Series, the mouth. The finish
Shirakawa Distillery in King of Diamonds was recalls prunes
Fukushima is long silent. finished in ex-sherry macerated in brandy.
It was owned by Takara barrels made from Not a shy beast.
Shuzou, whose only interest American oak. The
in whiskey distilling these nose is a mix of
days comes from its cream and toasted NIKKA
ownership of Tomatin almond, with some Distilleries: Sendai
Distillery in Scotland dry sacking notes (Miyagikyo), Yoichi
(see p97) and co-ownership indicative of age.
of the Blanton’s range of As usual there’s light This major distiller,
small-batch bourbons smoke and when now part of Asahi
(see p212). It’s King blend is water is added Breweries, was
still available in Japan. there’s a fragrant Ichiro’s Malt, founded by
sandalwood edge Ace of Spades Masataka Taketsuru
japan 253
Pure Malt Series: White secondary ageing in barrel.

43% ABV l White is the most It is bottled at cask strength.
phenolic of the trio, This has the most intense
moving into a nose of the Nikka range with
perfumed zone with a resinous perfume intensity
hints of dried hinting at rosemary oil while
lavender along with some dried chocolate and
light nutty notes. cherry adds interest. The
Slightly herbal on palate is a mix of sweet and
the nose, there is a savoury with a heavy dose of
slight soapiness on spices on the finish. Complex.
the palate.
Pure Malt Series:
Black 43% ABV l Blackis TAKETSURU
Nikka Pure Nikka From the the biggest of the Distilleries: Sendai (Miyagikyo),
Malt Series, Black Barrel Malt three with a deep, Yoichi
chocolatey, almost
(see p235) and is Suntory’s leathery nose. The smokiness A duo of vatted malts from
main (some would say gives it an earthy quality. Dry Nikka are named after the
only)rival on the domestic for a Japanese whiskey, the legendary founder of the
market. As well as a range high proportion of Yoichi company. The constituent
of single malts from its malt used here adds density parts are drawn from the
two distilleries, Yoichi and and weight, though there is a multitude of whiskies made
Sendai (Miyagikyo), the firm blackcurrant sweetness in the at their two distilleries.
produces blends, blended center and a peppery finish. Taketsuru Pure Malt
malts, and single grain Nikka All Malt 40% ABV l A 17‑year-old 43% ABV l A
under its own name and blend of pot still malt and highly complex whiskey,
proprietory brands. 100 percent malt from a this leads with marzipan,
Pure Malt Series: Red 43% ABV Coffey still. An light smoke, polished
Red is the lightest of the intriguing mix of wood, and tobacco.
color-coded series, using sweet and dry oak on In time a tropical
a high percentage of the nose alongside fruit note emerges
Miyagikyo malts. Estery some banana, the alongside eucalyptus
with the aroma of apple, palate is soft and and vanilla. The
powdered almond, and a unctuous with silky, palate is very juicy
crisp oakiness. The palate is juicy fruits to the fore. and the vanilla
light and floral with a zesty From the Barrel deepens into cocoa.
citric lift. Good as an aperitif. A blend of
51.4% ABV l There’s oak but
grain and malt, which sufficient clean pure
Sendai Distillery provides malt for have been vatted Taketsuru fruit to balance. Very
many brands, notably the Nikka together and then Pure Malt 17- precise and complex.
and Taketsuru pure malt series. given a period of Year-Old Taketsuru Pure
Malt 21-year-old
43% ABV l Winner of best
blended malt in the 2007
World Whiskies Awards,
beating rivals from
Scotland, this older
expression has more
smoke on show, along
with layers of sweet
toffee, sultana, and
rich oak, and a
slightly fungal note
that you get from
mature whiskies.
Tropical fruits seen
in the younger
expression
(conceivably part
of the Miyagikyo
contribution) are Taketsuru
more concentrated Pure Malt
in this expression. 21-Year-Old
whiskey nations 255
Europe
Although Ireland and Scotland are recognized as the cradle

of whiskey distilling, at the same time that their industries were
forming in the 17th, 18th, and 19th centuries, distilling was
in full swing elsewhere in Europe—but not whiskey.
D
ue to the climate, the southern a marked decline in sales.Typically
part of Europe concentrated on distilleries were started by existing
distilling fruits into a variety of companies, either producers of eaux-de-
eaux-de-vie, whereas the north used barley vie or brewers of beer. After all, without
to brew beer, or distilled gin and vodka the hops, whiskey is distilled beer.
from other grains, usually flavored with Today Austria is home to five whiskey
herbs, spices, and fruits. Austria for distillers, Germany ten, France eight, and
instance is famous for its wide variety of the Netherlands three. Several other
schnapps, flavored with whatever berries countries have just one or two whiskey-
the makers can lay their hands on. making distilleries. Spain, for example,
France’s most noble distillates are has been making a blended whiskey since
Cognac, Armagnac, Calvados, and Mar, 1959 at DYC. The distillery is owned by
each made in specific regions. The Fortune Brands, which also owns the Islay
Germans also provide the lover of strong single malt Laphroaig, the bourbons
liquor with a variety of schnapps, while Maker’s Mark and Jim Beam, and
Scandinavian countries have been Teacher’s blended Scotch.
enjoying aquavit for ages. The Dutch Continental European whiskey-
have their own sort of gin, “genever;” distilling history is in most cases a short
the process for making this comes closest one and whiskey needs time to mature.
to the making of whiskey if flavoring Currently the Continentals offer rather
were left out and maturation introduced. young whiskies to the market in order
In the last 10 years or so, however, the to make an early return on their
interest in making whiskey has grown investments. Most whiskies in this section
slowly but surely on the Continent. are less than 10 years old and some have
Companies have kept a watchful eye on just passed the legal minimum of three
the development of whiskey in particular, years’ maturation. Those young ones
since it was the only liquor showing are hard to judge and it will take another
growth figures, whereas drinks like 10 to 15 years to see how they develop
genever, schnapps, and Cognac showed and which distilleries survive. In any
case, aficionados follow them with
Zuidam Distillery in the Netherlands, which has
great interest and can hardly wait to
this attractive windmill on site, introduced their taste fully matured 12 to 18-year-old
Millstone 5-Year-Old Malt in 2007. European single malts.
256 whiskey nations
Distilleries and Brands

A growing number of European distillers are turning their hands to
whiskey, producing an intriguing mix of styles. Time will tell how well
these spirits develop with age, but there are plenty of signs of promise.
FINLAND
European TEERENPELI
Bauernhof DISTILLERIES NORWAY
MACKMYRA
Switzerland: SWEDEN ESTONIA

Talacher, 6340 Baar LATVIJAS
LATVIA BALZAMS
www.swissky.ch
DENMARK
LITHUANIA
Brennerei Zentrum
Bauernhof makes a IRELAND BELARUS
UNITED POLAND
variety of fruit liquors KINGDOM
US HEIT
NETH. VALLEI V&S LUKSUSOWA
and has started to go ZUIDAM SONNENSCHEIN
into whiskey distilling. WAMBRECHIES
BEL. THE OWL DISTILLERY
CZECH
Their first product is a GLANN GUILLON
AR MOR GERMANY REP.
UKRAINE
WARENGHEM SLOVAKIA
single malt called Swissky DES MENHIRS FISSELIER
with no age statement. HUNGARY
The latest expression is St. FRANCE See inset below ROMANIA
Moritzer Single Malt.

Apparently, the malt used HÖHLER REINER
MÖSSLEIN BLAUE MAUS
is rauchmalz, a local DOMAINE MAVELA
GERMANY WALDVIERTLER
variety from Bamberg in D. Y. C. BERTRAND GRUEL ROGGENHOF
RABEL
southern Germany, but PORTUGAL VOLKER
THEURER REISETBAUER WEIDENAUER
the distillery tends to be SPAIN
WHISKY CASTLE
SLYRS
HOF HOLLE AUSTRIA
secretive about its casks ZÜRCHER BAUERNHOF
WEUTZ
WOLFRAM
and maturation methods. SWITZERLAND ORTNER
MAISON LES VIGNETTES
Bertrand
France: Uberach single Malt 42.2% ABV —a grocery and tobacco
3 Rue du Maréchal
l This straw-colored malt is shop. Three years later he
Leclerc, Uberach young leather and cut attempted for the first time
www.distillerie-bertrand.com
grass, hay, light honey, to make pure malt whiskey.
becoming waxy. Dried Many attempts would
fruits (apricots) and a follow, honoring his motto:
Uberach is a small village spicy, peppery finish. “Practice, practice, practice.”
in the north of the Alsace Uberach Single Cask Malt Fleischmann began selling
and its distillery was 43.8% ABV l Amber with his whiskey in 1996. In 2000
founded in 1874 to pink tones. Chocolate his son Thomas and wife
produce brandy and aromas, with hints of Petra took over the company.
liqueurs. Whiskey old plum and a little The current offerings
production started in peat; deep, with fruity number five different
2002. Since Bertrand roundness. single malt whiskies.
also owns a brewery, Grüner Hund vintage 1991
malt is shared between 40 % ABV l At first slightly sour,
the beer and whiskey Blaue Maus almonds, then floral, nutty.
producers. Bertrand Germany:
Toasted almonds, slightly
has two expressions. Bamberger Strasse 2,
bitter, though creamy,
Uberach Single Malt is Eggolsheim-Neuses with a malty sweetness.
a blend using Bertrand’s www.fleischmann-
The finish is warming and
different casks (ex- Uberach whisky.de
medium long.
Banyuls sweet wine Single Malt Open by Blaue Maus vintage 1993 40 %
and new wood), aged appointment only ABV l Malty with oak notes.
between three and four Sweet-sour with a slightly

years. Uberach Single Cask Robert Fleischmann started spicy and peppery finish.
Malt is a non-filtered in 1980 with a brandy wine Krottentaler vintage 1994
whiskey, and is matured in distillery on the premises of l Sweet, malty with a
40 % ABV
Banyuls casks for three years. the original family company decent oaky note. Creamy,
europe 257
slightly sweet vanilla oak. notes, floral scents of

A medium to long finish rose, and heather. Fruity Denmark’s Micro
ends in a beautiful taste touches of honey, Located in an old warehouse
of almonds. marmalade, and spicy in Koge Harbor, to the south
Schwarzer Pirat notes of nutmeg. Velvety of Copenhagen, the
Dry,
vintage 1995 40 % ABV on the palate with Braunstein microdistillery
peaty, and sweet, pleasing touches (www.braunstein.dk)
with an almond of vanilla oak. started to distil whiskey in
flavor which echoes Eddu grey Rock March 2007. The spirit
sweetly in a 40% ABV l Amber
matures in ex-sherry casks
medium finish. gold, woody and of 50 gallons (225 liters),
Spinnaker Vintage with broom-flower and the first Braunstein
1997 40 % ABV flavors. Orange and Danish Single Malt is
Malty, lightly nutty, apricot notes, slight expected in 2010, when it
and creamy. Sweet mineral sea breeze can legally be called whiskey.
like marzipan, with Des Menhirs’ aromas with a touch The distillery plans to bottle
a short, dry-sweet Eddu Grey Rock of cinnamon. A the drink at cask strength.
finish in which the balance of flavors
marzipan lingers on. and an astounding
persistence on the palate. the Troncet forest. The casks
are primed first with malmsey
des Menhirs and muscatel. The spirit
Domaine Mavela matures for an unspecified
France:
Pont Menhir, 29700 Plomelin France:
period of time after which
www.distillerie.fr Brasserie Pietra
it is vatted in barrels that
Route de la Marana have previously contained
This distillery was built in 20600 Furiani Corsica eaux-de-vie originating from
Brittany in 1986 to distil www.brasseriepietra.com
Domaine Mavela.
apple cider. In 1998 a Open to visitors P&M Blend Supérieur 42% ABV
separate still was installed Strong, fruity, and with a
to produce whiskey, solely Brasserie Pietra and beautiful amber color.
made from buckwheat. Domaine Mavela on the This is a rich, complex,
The whiskey is called Eddu French island of Corsica and very imaginative
(Breton for buckwheat) have been cooperating for a whiskey, and the flavors
and available in three number of years to present linger for a long time in
expressions. Eddu Silver is their P&M whiskey to the the mouth.
double-distilled and matured market. Pietra, which was P&M Pure Malt 42% ABV
in French oak casks, though founded in 1996 and was A subtle aroma of honey,
the maturation period is not originally a brewery, makes apricot, and citrus fruit
specified. Eddu Gold is the wash and Mavela distils. on the nose. An extremely
similar, only higher in Pietra offers three complex, and highly
alcohol. Eddu Grey Rock expressions: P&M Blend, aromatic, bouquet.
is a blend, with 30 percent P&M Blend Supérieur,
buckwheat whiskey. and P&M Pure Malt. This French oak is used for the casks
Eddu Silver 40% ABV malt matures in casks that at Des Menhirs, which makes its
Gold amber hue, aromatic are made of oak sourced from whiskey using buckwheat.
258 whiskey nations
Taol Esa in 2004, just before

the distillery proper opened.
In June 2006 the second
“first” new make ran from the
stills. The spirit is made from
100 percent malted barley in
a peated and an unpeated
version. The first 3-year-old
single malt from this Breton
distillery is due to appear
in the summer of 2009.
Taol Esa is Breton for “the
essay.” Let’s hope it grows
into a novel in years to come!
Glann ar Mor is a Breton phrase A smooth, creamy Gruel

meaning “beside the sea,” which mouthfeel, malty, with Germany:
describes its location perfectly. vanilla, marzipan, and apple Neue Strasse 26, Owen
and citrus fruits. A long,
bittersweet, smooth finish. Christian and Inge Gruel
DYC DYC Malt 40% ABV l A fragrant, started making whiskey after
Spain:
golden amber malt, with visiting distilleries in
Beam Global España SA
hints of citrus, sweetness, Scotland in the 1990s. They
Pasaje Molino del Arco, and vanilla, making a have made three types—all
Palazuelos de Eresma, Segovia sophisticated bouquet. A single grain whiskies. Named
www.dyc.es
full-bodied, rich malt flavor, Gruel Single Grain Whiskey,
and a long, subtle, finish. they are aged at five, seven,
This was the first Spanish and nine years.
distillery, founded in the
1950s near Segovia. It was Fisselier
built by the Eresma River— Guillon
France:
famous for its excellent water 56 rue du Verger, Chantepie France:
quality—and whiskey started www.jacques-fisselier.com Hameau de Vertuelle, Louvois
to flow in 1959. The www.whisky-guillon.com
distillery is now owned by Fisselier was founded in Open to visitors
Fortune Brands, who put 1968 as a producer of fruit
all its wines and spirits under liqueurs. However, for the The Guillon Distillery is
its subsidiary Beam Global. past few years, the distillery located in the Champagne
DYC, which stands for has produced two whiskies: region and was built in 1997
Distilerias Y Crianza del Gwenroc Whiskey Breton to make whiskey. The first
Whisky, comes in three and Whiskey de Bretagne. spirit flowed from the stills in
versions, a 5-year-old and Both are blended whiskies, 1999. Annual production in
an 8-year-old expression, with the latter containing 2007 was about 400,000
both blends of various a higher percentage bottles.
grains, and a malt whiskey of malt. Guillon offers an
with no age statement. The impressive range
spirits mature in American of different
oak barrels. They are Glann ar Mor expressions. The single
primarily sold on the home France:
malts include Le Single
market. The Spanish drink Crec’h ar Fur, Pleubian
Malt Guillon No. 1, Le
it in a mix with cola and ask www.glannarmor.com Single Malt de Louvois
at the bar for a “whiskey- Champagne, and Le
dyc” (pronounced “dick”). Glann ar Mor Single Malt de
DYC 5 40% ABV l A pale straw Distillery opened Louvois Banyuls.
color, clean, with a hint of in 2005 after eight Guillon’s blend,
fruit, spice, and toasted years of planning. called Le Premium
wood. Malty, spicy, with a In 1999 a small Blend, consists of
smooth, creamy mouthfeel amount of spirit 50 percent malt
and a smoky, spicy finish. was distilled and and 50 percent
DYC 8 40% ABV l Golden matured in ex- grain whiskey. The
amber with a floral, spicy, Bordeaux casks for whiskies are quite
smoky, grassy nose, and hints five years. It was Le Single Malt fruity and
of honey and heather. eventually bottled as Guillon No. 1 elegant—the result
europe 259
changed ( July 1, 1999),

The future is Gotland the Bader family started to
One to look out for in the distil from grains and thus
near(ish) future is Sweden’s became the first whiskey
Gotland Distillery. It is due distillery in Switzerland.
to start distilling in 2008, The whiskey is mainly
so the wait will be several sold as single cask malt,
years, but in the meantime therefore the taste differs
you can check on progress slightly with each bottling.
at the distillery’s website: The most mature expression
www.gotlandwhisky.se. available is just over five
years old. Maturation takes
place in French oak casks
of maturation in ex- that previously held either
burgundy casks first, white or red wine.
followed by a six-month Holle Single Malt Whiskey
finish in a sweet wine cask, 42% ABV lDelicate, not smoky,
most notably former unobtrusive aromas of malt, Höhler whiskey is produced in
Sauterne, Maury, and wood, and vanilla combine small, distinctive batches that
Banyuls casks. Guillon chose with a flavor of wine. There are in great demand.
not to use more traditional is also a cask-strength
casks, such as ex-sherry, port, version, which is bottled at Hessen, the province where
or American bourbon. 51.1 percent ABV. the distillery is located.
Currently the following
expressions are maturing in
Hof Holle Höhler his warehouse: Dinkelwhisky
Switzerland: Germany:
2004, Haferwhisky 2004,
Hollen 52, Lauwil Kirchgasse 3, Aarbergen
and Brauer-Whisky 2005.
www.single-malt.ch www.brennerei-hoehler.de
They are difficult to find,
Open by appointment only Open to visitors
since the product is not
sold in stores and demand
The Hollen is a farm in the Höhler originated in 1895 as is larger than output.
country near Basle. It has a fruit liquor distillery. The Previous expressions from
had its own little distillery for current owner, Holger, is the 2003 were a rye Whessky
fruit liquor for a long time. fourth generation Höhler. and an Irish-styled Whessky
Until 1999 in Switzerland Since 2001 he has made made from barley, malted
it was strictly forbidden to small batches of whiskey barley, rye, and oats.
distil spirit from grain, since from a recipe of corn, wheat, Whesskey, Irish Style 44.5% ABV
it was considered a food and malted barley. They Light gold in color, with
staple. The day the law mature for three years and cereal grains on the nose and
when bottled sell out almost bitter lemon, grains, and sour
Guillon Distillery chooses its at once. Höhler sometimes peppermint on the palate.
casks to impart a fruity flavor calls his product Whessky— Thin body, short finish.
to the finished whiskey. a fusion of Whiskey and Whessky, Scottish style
single malt 45.7% ABV l Aromas
of stables, tea, straw, and
cedar wood. The taste: stewed
earl grey tea and peppermint,
but slightly honeyish. Thin
in body, and the finish has
notes of bitter lemon.
Whessky, Rye style 45.7% ABV
Menthol and grains on the
nose, with old strawberry
candies. Peppermint, dried
fruit, apricot, and strawberry
on the palate. Slightly oily,
with a pleasant, warm finish.
Whessky, bourbon style
Nose: cooked grains,
45% ABV l
cooked pear, apple, apricot
jam. Taste is a bit musty:
mushrooms, cardboard,
cherry bubble gum.
260 whiskey nations
Whiskey, bourbon style, “Elegant” is the original in ex-Burgundy casks.

cask strength 61% ABV l Fuller recipe. “Smoke” is Currently, three ranges
than the 45 percent ABV, spiced with herbs and so are offered. Each range
with citrus zest and a hot cannot really be called has various expressions.
finish. Flatter with water. whiskey. Mackmyra The Collection
Reserve matures in Club range
exceptionally small consists of
Latvijas Balzams 6.5-gallon (30-liter) “Challenge” and
Latvia:
casks, speeding up “Skipper.” The
A. Caka iela 160, Riga
the maturation Collection Prestige
www.balzams.lv
process hugely. range consists of
Individuals can Annouim, Abred,
Latvia’s only distillery is in buy their own Gwenwed, and
the capital of this tiny Baltic spirit and select a Keugant. The
state which joined the EU in cask (ex-bourbon, Collection Must
2004. The Latvian term for ex-sherry, or new range has “1825”
whiskey is viskij. It comes in Swedish oak) in and Grand Crû.
two expressions, “Alexandrs” which to have their All expressions
and LB. Both are made from whiskey matured. Belgian Owl are labeled as
local rye and have a smooth, Mackmyra, Preludium Single Malt “Glen Vignettes
light taste that is unusual for 05 48.4% ABV l Marzipan, Single Malt
rye-based whiskey. custard, and a light citrus Swhisky;” cask-strength is
note on the nose. Taste: 56.2 percent ABV. They are
crème brûlée, bitter exported to France, Belgium,
Mackmyra chocolate, lemon zest. Germany, and Japan.
Sweden:
A bit oily; slightly metallic Annouim 45% ABV
Bruksgatan 4, Valbo and grainy in the finish— Light, fruity—an aperitif.
www.mackmyra.se
creamier with water. Gwenwed 45% ABV
Open by appointment only Lively, fruity, hints of
prunes and toast. Makes
Swedish engineer Magnus Maison Les Vignettes for a pleasant evening.
Dardanell founded France: Abred 45% ABV
Mackmyra in 1999 with a Les Vignettes 6, Ardon Smoky. Fresh leather.
group of friends. The stills www.swhisky.ch
For the unconditioned…
were made by Forsyth’s of Open to visitors Keugant 56.2% ABV
Rothes, in Scotland. Swedish Cask strength. Powerful,
washbacks and a German Les Vignettes has distilled with tones of pepper and
mash tun complete this truly whiskey since December ginger. Be sure to have
European distillery. In 2006 2000. The product matures a bed nearby!
Mackmyra launched the first
bottling in a limited series,
Preludium 01. Preludium 02,
03, 04, and 05 soon followed.
Their latest is Preludium 06.
Each is bottled at a high
52–55 percent ABV.
The whiskey comes in
different expressions.
Mackmyra Distillery
creates its individualistic
whiskies using equipment
from many countries.
europe 261
eight years in oak casks.

The Owl The water used runs through the Czech Republic
Belgium: limestone—like a lot of
Once, when still called
Rue Sainte Anne 94,
American whiskey (see p183)
Czechoslovakia, this country
Grâce-Hollogne —and owner Thomas Rabel
describes the whiskey he harbored four whiskey
www.belgianwhisky.com distilleries. Two of them,
produces as a cross between
Scotch and bourbon. Tesetice and Dolany, are
Founded in 2004, the now mothballed. The former
distillery has already used to make King Barley,
changed names a couple Reiner Mösslein the only Czech single malt.
of times in its short Germany:
The two distilleries currently
history—it was previously Untere Dorfstrasse 8, producing are Rudolf
known as the Lambicool Zeilitzheim Jelinek (www.rjelinek.cz)
and Pur.E. Distillery. www.weingeister.de and Stock Plzen (www.
Master distiller Etienne stock.cz), both founded in
Bouillon uses only This is a winery that the late 19th century. Jelinek
home‑grown barley also produces various bought the brand Gold
(Scarlet and Prestige) schnapps and one malt Cock, previously owned by
and first-fill bourbon whiskey. The whiskey Tesetice. For its two
casks to age his spirit, matures in oak
expressions, Jelinek uses
which is known as casks for five years
Moravian barley and water
Belgian Owl. and has a smoky
The entire aroma. It is labeled that comes from an
production process Fränkischer Whiskey. underground well, rich in
takes place on the minerals. Its two whiskies
premises. Bouillon are: Gold Cock Red
bottles his whiskey at Reisetbauer Feathers, 3-year-old
the legal age of three blended whiskey; and Gold
Austria:
years. He also provides 4062 Axberg 15
Cock, 12-year-old malt.
professional tasters www.reisetbauer.at Stock Plzen distils Printer’s,
with new make from a 6-year-old malt whiskey.
6, 12, and 18 months Reiner Originally a They also use this whiskey
old to let them Mösslein Malt producer of fruit for a cream liquor.
discover for Whiskey distillates, Hans
themselves how Reisetbauer ventured
the spirit matures. into whiskey distilling in Reisetbauer 7-year-old 56%
The first cask was filled in 1995. He planted ten acres ABV lDelicate, multilayered
October 2004. The 3-year- of summer brewing barley, on the nose with roasted
old Belgian Owl Single Malt dedicated to the making hazelnuts and dried herbs;
Whiskey, released in the fall of single malt. In 2002 the notes of bread and cereals,
of 2007 is bottled at 46 first Reisetbauer bottling slightly smoky with fine
percent ABV, unfiltered. appeared as a 7-year-old spice; aged, yet full of verve.
Belgian Owl 17-month spirit expression. For maturation,
Fresh, direct, white and Reisetbauer uses casks that
green flowers in the nose. contained Chardonnay and Slyrs
Apple-cinnamon, pear, and a Trockenbeerenauslese wines. Germany:
whiff of banana, developing Bayrischzellerstrasse 13,
into aromas of plum Schliersee-Ortsteil Neuhaus
pudding and pearl sugar, www.slyrs.de
with a malty fruity finish. Open to the public
Slyrs was founded in 1999

Rabel and makes a decent whiskey,
Germany:
which is distributed by
Berghof, 73277 Owen-Teck
Lantenhammer, a schnapps
www.berghof-rabel.de
distillery in the same village.
Slyrs Bavarian Single Malt is
Originally a schnapps matured for an unspecified
distillery, Rabel has started time in new 50-gallon (225-
making Schwäbischer liter) American white oak
whiskey. It is a blend of barrels. The supply is limited
barley and wheat. Whiskey and bottles can be purchased
von der Alb is matured for Reisetbauer 7-Year-Old Single Malt only via a select number of
262 whiskey nations
2000 and gave it a second

Turkey’s Tekel maturation in Finland,
Tekel Distillery is owned by with their own wood finish.
the Turkish government and Apparently a couple of
produces a whiskey called years in the Finnish climate
Ankara. It is bottled as a 3- enhances the flavors of the
year-old and a 5-year-old. original whiskey, resulting in
There is some confusion as a full and slightly spicy taste.
to whether it is real whiskey. Recently, Teerenpeli has
The former is made from started to distil whiskey
malted barley and rice, so it as well, although it is not
cannot be called whiskey. yet bottled as a single malt.
The latter however states
on the label that it is
manufactured from malted
Us Heit
barley only. Netherlands:
Snekerstraat 43,
Bolsward, Friesland
retailers. Since 2002, a www.usheitdistillery.nl
3‑year-old has been bottled Open to visitors
US Heit is the first Dutch whiskey;
and sold each year; in 2015 the expression shown here is
the company plans to present Friesland (or Fryslân) is one matured in wine casks.
a 12-year-old single malt. of the northern provinces
of the Netherlands and Frysk Hynder sherry
considers itself a country Matured 43% ABV l Sweetish,
Sonnenschein within a country. Its and soft for a 3-year-old
Germany: language, Frysian, comes whiskey. Tasty, with wood
Alter Fährweg 7–9, Witten-Heven
from a different root to the notes from the sherry cask.
www.sonnenschein-brennerei.de
Dutch language. Frysk, as
it is properly spelled in the
Sonnenschein started in 1875 “native” tongue, is officially Vallei
with the production of fruit recognized as the second Netherlands:
liquors and brandy wine. In language in the Netherlands. Asschatterweg 233, JP Leusden
1990 a single malt The province of www.valleibieren.nl/whisky
was distilled in Friesland also Open by appointment only
readiness for the has its own flag,
plant’s 125th parliament, and The Dutch word Vallei
anniversary broadcasting means “valley” or, even
celebrations in company, but better, “glen.” In 2002
2000. The whiskey not currency. owner Bert Burger started
was matured in Us Heit, meaning some distilling experiments
oak casks from “our father,”
Scotland and was originally a Polish whiskey
finished in sherry brewery. Owner
wood. It is no Aart van der Although some whiskey
longer available, Linde used his writers have referred to
but Sonnenschein brewing skills to a product called “Dark
continues to make make the first Whiskey” as a Polish
a Sonnenschein Valley Single Malt Spirit Dutch whiskey, whiskey, the parent
10-year-old single but gave it a company, Polmos Zielona
malt, still using casks Frisian name: Frysk Hynder Gora (part of the Swedish-
originating from Scotland. It —which honors a famous based V&S group), clearly
comes in a nifty 50cl bottle. Frisian horse, apparently. states that its brand is in fact
Frysk Hynder is sold as a a blend of Scotch whiskies.
3‑year-old and comes in two The Polish distillery itself,
Teerenpeli different expressions. One based at Zielona Gora,
Finland: has been matured in wine produces a wide variety
Hämeenkatu 19, Lahti
casks and the other matured of spirits, including vodka,
www.teerenpeli.com
in sherry casks. gin, rum, and several
Open to visitors Frysk Hynder Wine Matured liqueurs. Therefore, strictly
43% ABVl A sweet character, speaking, there is no such
Teerenpeli is a brewery and surprisingly smooth thing as genuine Polish
a bar. The company started considering its young whiskey … yet.
to import Scotch whisky in age. Pleasant and fruity.
europe 263
devotee, Mr. Theurer Rye Whiskey JH l Made from

offers Original Ammertal 60 percent rye and 40
Whiskey, which is also percent malt, this whiskey is
known as Black Horse harmoniously balanced by
Original Ammertal Whiskey. the two corn varieties. It has
a light vanilla flavor, and
matures in Manhartsberger
Waldviertler summer oak.
Roggenhof Pure Rye-Malt Whiskey JH
Austria:
A gentle, sweet taste of
Volker Theurer is one of Europe’s 3664 Roggenreith 3
honey harmonizes perfectly
older spiritmakers, but its whiskey
www.roggenhof.at
with light vanilla in this 100
distilling began relatively recently. percent malted rye whiskey.
Open to visitors
Like the mixed rye, it is
at home in his kitchen. His This company claims to be matured in Manhartsberger
neighbor, a farmer, supplied the first whiskey distillery in summer oak.
him with barley and allowed Austria and was founded in Pure Rye-Malt Whiskey JH
him to convert a calf barn 1995. Besides distilling, “Nougat” l The malted rye
into what is a true farm owner Johann is roasted to a
distillery. The official Haider has also darker shade,
founding year was 2004. created the which gives the
Burger single-handedly “Whiskey whiskey an
malts, mashes, ferments, Experience” intense malty
distils, fills casks, and bottles in his premises, taste with a
his product. To make some which consists of touch of both
money, the first spirit was a permanent chocolate
released as a malt whiskey exhibition all and nougat.
liqueur in November 2006. about whiskey Single Barley
Currently, larger quantities and a seminar Malt Whiskey JH
of spirit are in the process room. Seminars Volker Theurer’s Made from
of maturing, closely are regularly Ammertal Whiskey label 100 percent
monitored by Burger. given and are lightly malted
The new make spirit has based on Haider’s own book barley, this whiskey offers a
pleasantly surprising fruity Fascination Whiskey. light, crisp, and, of course,
aromas, but we’ll have to wait Roggenhof produces malty caramel flavor.
to sample a mature whiskey five different whiskies. All Single Barley Malt
from this one-man-band. of them mature for a period Whiskey JH “Karamell”
Valley single malt spirit 43% of between 3 and 12 years in Made from 100 percent
ABV l A cask sample offered a Manhartsberger summer oak dark malted and roasted
spirity and fruity nose, with casks. The whiskey is bottled barley, the Karamell
hints of apricots and cloves. exclusively as a single cask whiskey is both smoky
Liquorice and dried fruit on offering, with the alcoholic and dry, and has an intense
a slightly metallic palate, and strength varying between 41 flavor of—yes, you’ve
the finish was dry, with and 54 percent ABV. guessed it—caramel.
liquorice again and spice.
Volker Theurer
Germany:
Jesinger Hauptstrasse 55/57,
Tübingen
www.lamm-tuebingen.de
The host of the Hotel

Gasthof Lamm apparently
enjoys distilling very much.
A large assortment of
schnapps is available to
guests and, for the whiskey
Waldviertler Roggenhof Distillery

produces five different whiskies
using rye and barley.
264 whiskey nations
from grains. Currently it

Wambrechies produces five different single
France:
malts—marketed as Hot
1 rue de la Distillerie
Stone, White Smoke,
59118 Wambrechies Maroon, Moonshine, and
www.wambrechies.com
Franziska—and one corn
whiskey, which is known as
Sugar Corn. Weutz calls the
Wambrechies was founded Sugar Corn “bourbon new
in 1817 as a genever (gin) make,” though technically
distillery and still produces this is incorrect, since
an impressive range of bourbon can only be
genevers. Some are called manufactured in the US.
Pur Malt and Vieux Malt
(old malt), but are not to be
confused with malt whiskey. WhiskEy Castle
The distillery produces one Switzerland:
whiskey: Wambrechies Whiskey Castle have added to Schlossstrasse 17
Single Malt, which is bottled their core distilling business with 5077 Elfingen
without an age statement. a new events facility.
www.whisky-castle.com
Open to visitors
Warenghem Weidenauer Käsers Schloss, as the
France: Austria:
Whiskey Castle is called in
Route de Guingamp Leopolds 6, 3623 Kottes
Swiss, is owned by Ruedi
22300 Lannion www.weidenauer.at
www.distillerie-warenghem.com Open by appointment only The Russian Bear
Open to visitors in summer only
This 19th-century fruit Russia is a large, growing
Warenghem was founded in liqueur distillery has market for (Scotch) whisky
1900 to produce apple cider produced whiskey since but does not have a whiskey
and fruit liquors. In its 1998. Their Hafer Whiskey distillery yet. It did try in the
99th year of existence, the is made of oats, while their past, however. During the
distillery ventured into Dinkel Whiskey is made reign of Stalin, a whiskey
whiskey production. It now from spelt (a type of wheat, devotee himself, a plan
makes two varieties: Armorik ancestor to modern wheats). was developed to build a
Single Malt, which is released
whiskey distillery that would
without an age statement;
Weutz use potatoes and sugar
and Breton Whiskey WB, a
3-year-old blend of 25 beet as its base product.
Austria: Since whiskey, whether it is
percent malt and 75 percent St Nikolai 6
grain alcohol. Both are Scotch, bourbon, blend, or
8505 St Nikolai im Sausal
released at 40 percent ABV. rye, has to be made from
www.weutz.at
grains, the Russians would
Spelt is closely related to common not have qualified as
wheat, but is higher in protein and About 15 years ago this fruit whiskey distillers, but the
has a nuttier taste; Weidenauer liqueur distillery started to question is academic as the
Distillery use it for Dinkel Whiskey. experiment with distilling project never got off the
ground. Nevertheless, this
market is potentially so
large that several Scottish
distillers have been
enlarging their capacity
to meet the expected
demand. No doubt the
Continental distillers will try
to conquer a small piece of
that emerging market in
times to come, and maybe
in the near future a vodka
producer will venture into
whisky distilling.
europe 265
Millstone 40% ABV

Sweet and fruity, with
aromas of honey, vanilla,
wood, and grain. It tastes
beautifully woody, sweet,
a bit spicy, and spirity,
with notes of honey
and citrus. The finish is
lightly drying, with notes of
fruit, honey, vanilla, wood,
and a touch of coconut.
Wolfram Ortner offers tours of its Zürcher

distillery and sells a range of Zuidam
Switzerland:
luxury items in its shop.
Netherlands: Nägeligässli 7, Port
Weverstraat 6
and Franziska Käser. They 5111 PW, Baarle Nassau Brennerei Zürcher launched
started to produce whiskey in www.zuidam-distillers.com
its first whiskey in 2006.
2000 and expanded their Open by appointment only
It is called Single Lakeland
business in July 2006 with a Malt Whiskey—not to
new building where whiskey- Zuidam is renowned for be confused with the
related events can be hosted. its excellent genevers whiskey that may or may
The Käsers organize four- and korenwijn—a variety not eventually emerge
course dinners, whiskey-jazz of genever that’s from the English
brunches, and the like. matured in oak Lakeland (see p181).
Whiskey Castle produces casks for up to 10 It is matured for
single malts as well as blends years. In 2007 three years in
that are made from rye, brothers Gilbert and Oloroso sherry
wheat, and oats. Patrick Zuidam, casks.
sons of the founder, Single Lakeland
introduced a 5-year- Malt Whiskey 42% ABV
Wolfram Ortner old single malt called Pure, woody;
Austria:
Millstone, which is aromatic, with a
Untertscherner Weg 3
aged in ex-bourbon, taste of sweetish
9546 Bad Kleinkirchheim ex-sherry, and new Wolfram Ortner grains and a slightly
www.wob.at
American oak casks. Nockland Whiskey astringent finish.
Around 5,000 bottles
have been sold, and there Zuidam Distillery has had
Wolfram Ortner specializes are plans to release a similar considerable success with its
in luxury products— quantity as a 10-year-old. Millstone 5-Year-Old Single Malt.
especially cigars, glasses,
chocolates, coffee, and fruit
liqueurs. The distillery was
founded in 1989 and the
company started to produce
Nockland Whiskey in 1996.
The whiskey is also
referred to as Wob Dö Malt.
It is matured exclusively in
new casks. For these, Ortner
makes his choice from a
wide variety of European
oak, including casks that
come from wine producing
regions, such as Limousin,
Allier, Nevers, and Vosges.
He also uses some American
white oak casks.
Nockland Whiskey 48% ABV
Sweet and malty on the
palate, with flavors of spice
and tobacco adding to the
whiskey’s complexity.
whiskey nations 267
australasia
Clean water, fresh air, and quality barley ought to make for a
perfect whiskey-producing environment. Yet it is really only
in recent years that Australia and New Zealand have begun
producing and exporting quality malts of their own.
N
ew Zealand’s very first distillery, Australia tells a similar tale, beginning
simply named the New Zealand with the opening of the Sorrell Distillery
Distillery Company, opened as in 1822. The output of this legal distillery
long ago as 1869, in response to a change was augmented by a plentiful supply from
in legislation that reduced the levy on illicit stills—Tasmania (then Van Diemen’s
locally distilled spirits to just half that of Land), especially, was awash with them.
imports. However, pressure from Scottish In response to the illicit trade, Lieutenant
distillers and concern about the drop in Governor Franklin introduced legislation
excise revenue forced the government to in 1939 that required distilleries to have
increase duty six years later. Conditions a minimum wash capacity of 594 gallons
became too difficult for the new distillery, (2,700 liters), which put an end to the
and it was forced to close. Tasmanian distilling industry in favor of
Around the same time, a man from ale production.
Aberdeenshire in Scotland started a new It wasn’t until the mid-1980s—when
brewery in the New Zealand town of Bill and Lyn Lark had to change federal
Dunedin. He went into partnership with legislation to allow them to operate their
his brother-in-law James Wilson, a fellow own still on the island state of Tasmania
Aberdonian, who in turn enlisted the —that Australia saw production of its
help of his son Charles. It was Charles first legally produced single malt in more
who made the malt extract Maltexo a than 100 years. Made with a specially
staple part of the New Zealand diet. It developed strain of barley to tolerate the
wasn’t until 13 years after his death in cool Tasmanian climate and local peat
1951, however, that his successors took for the malting, the Larks’ first whiskey
the link between malt and brewing a step was released in 1998.
further to transform the company into To best accommodate the fact that
Wilson Distillers Ltd. in 1964. It became the domestic industry has only been
the country’s first legal distiller in almost operating for such a short time, many
a century. In those intervening years, a distilleries opt to use smaller casks than
prolific and illicit “moonshining” their Scottish counterparts, which
tradition had erupted. results in the spirit maturing much faster.
Hobart in Tasmania is home to the Lark Distillery,
The result of this is whiskey that has
the first modern Australian whiskey producer. been favorably compared with some
The distillery has a harborside location. of the best malts from Scotland.
268 whiskey nations
Distilleries
In the 1980s and 90s, whiskey distilleries finally became fully established
in Australia and New Zealand with some degree of permanency.
Many now produce fast-maturing single malts of high quality.
australasian DISTILLERIES
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of Australia. DERYH
At Nant Distillery the barley is 6287+(51
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grown, malted, distilled, and All the whiskies :,/621ǧ6
matured all on the one site. released are single cask
offerings. Some of the Peated Malt 46% ABV
bottlings are diluted with A rich gold color with a
Bakery Hill spring water to reduce subdued peat aroma.
Balwyn, Victoria, Australia
them to a traditional Kumquat and fruit
www.bakeryhilldistillery.com.au
strength, one is finished mince tart scents give
in a wine cask to impart it a sweetness. On the
David Baker began making a slightly different flavor, palate are hints of
his own malt in the late while the others are tobacco leaf along
1990s, hoping that he could bottled at a powerful 60 with the smoky peat.
craft something reflective of percent ABV. The This malt carries
the “Australian Spirit.” With malts are free from the with it a long finish.
a scientific background that addition of any Double Wood Malt
included years investigating caramel so the flavor Matured in
46% ABV l
fermentation, and after you get is purely from former Jack Daniel’s
many visits to Tasmanian the production and barrels, and then
distilleries, David set out to maturation processes. finished in French
prove that Australia could Cask Strength Peated oak previously used
produce a malt to match the 60% ABV l Golden cedar Bakery Hill for wine. The nose
Scottish product. He’s had in color; a sharp peat Cask Strength opens with apricot,
great success, with distillery on the nose with crisp Peated Malt coconut, and plum.
awards as well as a number salt and dark cherry These aromas are
of gold and silver medals for notes. Toffee and followed by golden syrup,
his whiskey at blind tastings honeycomb on the palate plum pudding, and cloves.
by the Malt Whiskey Society along with rich malt and The palate is subdued with
a rounded lingering finish. marmalade overtones and
Cask Strength Classic a nougat sweetness offset
60% ABV l Rich amber to gold by oak. All contained in a
color, with overtones of burnished bronze color.
vanilla, orange, and bitter
dark chocolate. It’s mouth-
cleaning on the tongue with Great Southern
hints of spiced orange Albany, Western Australia,
Turkish delight intertwined Australia
with cereal and oak. www.distillery.com.au
Classic Single Malt 46% ABV
Green apples, spiced honey, This distillery is temporarily
and cider on the nose, while set up on the outskirts of
on the palate the flavors the Western Australian town
At Bakery Hill the spirit is distilled move through nutmeg, of Albany while the owner,
in a copper pot still and passed spiced honey, and on to Cameron Syme, awaits the
through a locked spirit safe. cereal and malt to finish. completion of his purpose-
Australasia 269
built distillery and visitor a week. Things have the setting up and
center. So new is this come a long way since production of a number
distillery that production they distilled their first of the malts now being
barrel numbers are still whiskey in 1999, and produced in Australia,
under 100 at the time of they now have over while his wife Lyn has
writing, but as soon as the 2,600 casks maturing. found inventive ways
new facility is up and Original Pure to include local fruits
running, the output is Australian Malt in the production of
expected to grow rapidly. 46.2% ABV l A pale unique liqueurs. Their
The southwestern location straw-colored liquid new harborside
not only provides pristine with vanilla, citrus, location offers visitors
source material for making and floral scents on a chance to walk
spirits, but also supplies 75 the nose. Mouth- through the distilling
percent of their electricity warming, it opens process, sample a few
via wind power. with cereal flavors drams at the whiskey
Having learned the trade followed by bitter dark bar, or simply take in
in Scottish and Tasmanian chocolate and just a the atmosphere.
distilleries, Cameron runs hint of smoked oak. Lark Single Tasmania Single Malt
the business with day-to-day Malt Whiskey 40% ABV Malty and
distillery manager Tony lightly peated on the
Browne. Great Southern Lark nose, it is complemented
will be bottling its first 14 Davey Street, Hobart, by the peppery spices
expression, “Limeburners,” in Tasmania, Australia that follow, with hints of
the second quarter of 2008. www.larkdistillery.com.au butterscotch. More malt
Currently the whiskey is Open to the public
on the tongue, offset with
being matured in a a clean, fruity flavor and
combination of ex-bourbon, Having opened the first legal powdery oak to offer further
ex-brandy, and American distillery in Australia in the complexity. The finish is
and French oak casks. last 100 years, Bill and Lyn spiced and delicate.
Lark are considered by many
to be the modern pioneers
Hellyers Road of the Australian whiskey Nant
53 Old Surrey Road, Burnie,
industry. Bill pondered why Bothwell, Tasmania, Australia
Tasmania, Australia it was that, with such an www.nantdistillery.com.au
www.hellyersroaddistillery.com.au
abundance of quality raw
Open to the public
material and ideal conditions, The entire operation here is
Australia was not producing situated on a large riverside
The largest single malt a single malt of its own. The farm, allowing Nant to
distillery in Australia is idea gained support, and control the process from
a highly automated site, eventually the government barley to bottle. Franklin
everything being computer was persuaded to overturn barley is grown on the farm
controlled and capable of an 88-year-old piece of and ground in a former flour
being remotely monitored legislation that stood in
from the home of the head the way of founding a new Lark Distillery on Hobart Harbour
distiller. Hellyers Road is a distillery. Bill’s experience has a specialist whiskey bar with
subsidiary of Betta Milk Co- has led him to be involved in indoor and outdoor seating.
operative Ltd., and years of
running a successful milk
processing plant has given
owner Laurie House a wealth
of experience in maintaining
constant environments,
critical temperature points for
liquids, controlled storage,
and a sizeable level of capital
to establish a distillation
plant. With what could
possibly be the largest single
investment in a distillery in
the southern hemisphere,
Hellyers has also opened
up a 60-seat café and visitor
information center, and offer
tours of the distillery 7 days
270 whiskey nations
mill (originally built by Cradle Mountain Single Malt same distillation run. It has a
convicts). Mashing, brewing, 43% ABV Citrus notes on the
l sweet, fruity nose with hints
distilling, and ageing are all nose with hints of nuts and of spice and nuts. The palate
carried out here, and the first honey. The mouthfeel is is buttery in the mouth with
bottles will be ready in 2008. clean, as is the finish. chocolate and sherry flavors.
Visitors have the chance to Cradle Mountain Double It is followed by a toffee and
stay overnight and experience Malt 46–54.4% ABV l Lightly honey finish.
a fully Scottish-inspired peaty, with fruit, possibly
whiskey experience that pear, followed by honey.
extends to a round of golf on The Springbank imparts The Southern
the adjoining course and fly an obvious saltiness on Distilling Company
fishing in the on-site stream. the nose and the palate, Stafford Street,
with a soft finish. Timaro, New Zealand
www.hokonuiwhiskey.com
Small Concern
Smith’s Sadly this is the only
Ulverstone, Tasmania, Australia
www.tasmanianwhisky.com.au Angaston, South
distillery still actively
Australia, Australia producing new
As its name suggests, this was www.yalumba.com
whiskey in New
a little distillery. The water Zealand. Thankfully,
for its whiskey came from a In the late 1990s, Malcolm Willmott
stream that begins in the Samuel Smith & Sons and Peter Wheeler,
nearby Cradle Mountain decided to make use the founders of the
National Park and flows of a pot still formerly distillery, are using it
along volcanic paths that are used to produce to keep the traditional
scattered across the island. brandy at their spirit of the New
Such purity of water ensured Yalumba winery. On Zealand whiskey alive.
a clean crispness in the final a few occasions in the Using a recipe dating
whiskey once produced here. late 1990s and again back to the late 1800s,
Unfortunately production in 2000, it was used Smith’s the distillery has tried
of their malts ceased in the for making whiskey. It Angaston to keep a whiskey
late 1990s, and the distillery has since been 7-Year-Old that is true to its
equipment was sold. Supply decommissioned, moonshining roots.
is obviously limited, but two which is a shame as it This moonshine is now
Small Concern whiskies can produced a fine whiskey that bottled and sold legally
be found. Cradle Mountain was similar in quality and by the distillery as “Old
Single Malt is triple distilled taste to Wilson’s Lammerlaw Hokonui,” and despite the
and smoother than most in (see opposite). The spirit was skull and crossbones on
the region. Cradle Mountain distilled from wash made the bottle’s label and the
Double Malt is a blended from local barley, and was somewhat intimidating
malt, made by combining aged in old sherry, old packaging, it is a pleasant
the Cradle Mountain Single French, old American, and drink with a smooth, sweet
Malt with Springbank Single new American casks. finish. The rest of the
Malt from Campbeltown in Smith’s Angaston 7-Year-old whiskies from this distillery
Scotland, which adds a little 40%ABV l This is a blend of take on a more traditionally
coastal saltiness. the various casks from the Scottish style with an island-
The mill house where the

distilling process takes
place at Nant Distillery.
australasia 271
time being to close the bar,

Tasmania’s new
shop, and museum and focus
arrival: Quoll Quaff
on producing a quality
product. Getting your hands The latest to open among
on a bottle of this non- the Tasmanian-based
peated malt can be distilleries is Quoll Quaff.
incredibly difficult. The Quoll is ageing its
Sullivan’s Cove Single whiskey in small 22-gallon
Barrel Cask Strength (100-liter) casks. Although
The MacKenzie Blended Whiskey A powerful nose offers a this will speed up the ageing,
strong malt scent. As the they are still maturing the
style level of peatiness. whiskey hits the tongue, spirit for at least 8 years, so
Southern adopts a unique there is an immediate rush
the first bottling will not be
approach to charring their of malt yet again, quickly
available to the public until
oak barrels to impart the followed by oak and sweet
distillery’s own special vanilla and chocolate notes. 2009. A “premium” 10-year-
characteristics into the malt. The finish is smooth old and a 15-year-old will be
Driftwood and seaweed are and lingering. made available in 2011 and
burned to smoke the barrels Sullivan’s Cove Single Barrel 2014. All variations will be
prior to use, adding an extra Cask Strength Port Finish made using domestically
level of complexity to the A surprisingly floral nose sourced barley, water,
smokiness—a light saltiness, on this malt is followed by and peat. Check on the
as you may imagine. a deep, rich aroma of a whiskey’s progress at www.
The Coaster 40% ABV l A Guinness-like stout. Across whiskyofthequoll.com.au.
single malt with a deep the palate it is dry but
amber color. The nose is full warming, with a sweet finish.
of cereal in addition to the have made their way into the
light smoke and peat notes. Milford Whiskey range, and
The palate has a light brine Wilson’s continue to be aged and
note followed by rich malt Dunedin, New Zealand
bottled under the Milford
and smoky caramel. Smooth brand until stocks run out.
and lasting finish. Wilson’s had the good fortune Lammerlaw 40% ABV
The MacKenzie 40% ABV l A to be the first legalized Similar in style to a lowland
light golden blend with distillery in New Zealand Scottish malt, it has light
caramel and oak on the in the past 100 years. But citrus notes on the nose and
nose. Across the palate it is that is pretty much where the a touch of honey. The palate
light and carries the caramel good fortune ended. After is again light, with lemon
and cereal flavors. The finish producing Lammerlaw, a and caramel notes, and a
is again quite smooth. quality single malt, Seagram’s smooth, lasting finish.
purchased the company in Milford 10-YEAR-OLD 43% ABV
1994 and before long, all its A dry nose but one that
Tasmania stills were dismantled. It really opens up with a dash
1/14 Lamb Place, Cambridge,
officially closed in 2000. of water to offer vanilla,
Tasmania, Australia Lammerlaw was quite marmalade, and peaches.
www.tasdistillery.com.au
highly acclaimed and did Across the tongue, it recalls
well to set a benchmark the citrus notes of the
A boutique distillery that has for other up-and-coming marmalade again, but
changed hands and locations producers in the region. with a creaminess and
numerous times over the past Bottles of Lammerlaw are malt added to the mix.
10 years, Tasmania Distillery rarely available, but a Milford 12-YEAR-OLD 43% ABV
employs only two people on collection of unbottled casks Light cereal aromas and a
a full-time basis. Patrick hint of wet straw. The taste
Maguire is quick to admit is of orange and nuts with
that early batches of their a peppery aftertaste.
whiskey left something to be Milford 15-YEAR-OLD 43% ABV
desired. However, the 7-year- Creamy cereal and custard
old has since been awarded when first nosed, it develops
gold and silver medals in into a slightly sour kumquat
blind tastings by the Malt scent. In the mouth it is
Whiskey Society of smooth, the fruitiness
Australia. With such a small becoming more pearlike,
distillery, though, it is with ginger and spice
difficult to spread focus and Tasmania Distillery’s Sullivan’s opening up. The finish is
Patrick has decided for the Cove range of whiskies warm, with a hint of aniseed.
whiskey nations 273
Asia
Asia continues to be not only the largest growth market for

whiskey, but also the largest consumer. India alone consumes
over 60 million cases each year, accounting for around
47 percent of global whiskey consumption.
T
he definition of whiskey can be disadvantage, however, by allowing the
very different in Asia from that maturation to occur more quickly, giving
generally accepted elsewhere. Asian whiskies a complexity that belies
This is to such an extent that some spirit their age.
produced in the region and labeled as A few distilleries have attempted to
whiskey is derived from alcohol made replicate the Scottish conditions more
from molasses or sugar cane (much like closely. Mohan Meakin’s Kasauli
rum) combined with additives and spices Distillery, originally founded by an
to impart a whiskeylike flavor and color. Englishman in the 1820s, is located in the
And what is termed blended whiskey may cooler climes of the Himalayas. Less is
have only a passing inclusion of malt lost to the “angels,” and traditional barley,
whiskey (legally as little as 4 percent), with more suited to cooler temperatures, can
the rest made up of what’s known as extra be used in the production.
neutral spirit (see p276), which could be
distilled from molasses or a variety of Whiskey in a dry state
grains that grow well in the region but Also to be found in Asia is one of the
are unusual to whiskey, such as rice. few distilleries operating in an Islamic
Asian whiskey is rarely aged, partly country. The Murree Brewery in
because the region’s climate is bad for Pakistan is permitted by the local
maturation. The higher temperatures government to produce alcohol for non-
mean that the angels’ share (whiskey lost Muslims and foreigners. Although it
from the cask due to evaporation while started up in 1860, it wasn’t until a
maturing) can be as high as 15 percent century later, in the 1960s, that the
each year. Therefore, the whiskey needs distillery began producing a single malt.
to be bottled early to be at all profitable. Scottish distillers have had difficulty
By the time the whiskey has been casked selling whiskey in much of Asia, but
for its traditional minimum 3-year eastern Asia has been a considerable
maturation, the distillery could have lost consumer, and South Korea leads the
40 percent of the original volume. The way with their consumption of the major
increased heat does partially offset this premium export Scotch blends, such
Barley grown in the fertile plains at the base of
as Chivas Regal and Johnnie Walker.
the Himalayas is used for whiskeymaking by Amrut Surely it won’t be long before they
Distillers; they also source their water from the region. have a distillery of their own.
274 whiskey nations
Distilleries and Whiskies

Asia has many distilleries, most of which produce ENA (extra neutral
alcohol) from molasses and other agricultural by-products (see p276).
Those selected here, however, focus at least part of their output on
whiskey made from barley or grain using traditional methods and ageing.
india and pakistan’s ,VODPDEDG

0855((
Amrut DISTILLERIES
02+$10($.,1
India:
36, Sampangi Tank Road, 3$.,67$1 5$',&2 'HOKL
Bangalore .+$,7$1 -$*$7-,7 1(3$/
www.amrutdistilleries.com
.DUDFKL
%$1*/$'(6+
In Indian mythology, the
.RONDWD
meaning of the word Amrut
is similar to “ambrosia,” Kingdom ,1',$
or “the elixir of life.” that proved
Although the distillery the feasibility of 0XPEDL
was founded in 1948, it his product in one
was not until the 1980s of the toughest
that Amrut included whiskey markets.
malt whiskey in its list Having satisfied 0&'2:(// &2 %DQJDORUH
of distilled products. himself that $0587
With assistance from Amrut’s product

some Scottish was viable in the
65,
experts, and a UK market, Rakshit /$1.$
business plan crafted promptly returned
by the British- to India to become
educated grandson Executive Director Premium Malt Whiskey,
of the founder, of Amrut and to which uses 5-year-old
Amrut has managed commence exporting. Scotch blended with ENA.
to position itself quite Amrut Single Malt Amrut Single Malt
prominently in the Amrut Whiskey is made from 40% ABV
Scottish market. Single Malt select Indian barley, Flowery and fruity on the
In particular, it has grown in the foothills nose, there is just a light spice
gained a grip in the of the Himalayas, and added by some ginger and
numerous Indian restaurants cultivated by old and aniseed notes. The palate
in Glasgow and elsewhere in traditional agricultural is smooth with a surprising
Scotland. It was the tactic practices. The barley is amount of spice and malt,
of the ever-creative Rakshit carefully malted and mashed while the finish is short
Jagdale to trial miniatures in water flowing from the and sweet.
of the distillery’s single malt Himalayan mountain range.
in 85 Indian restaurants Distillation, in traditional
throughout the United pot stills, occurs in small JAGATJIT
batches and maturation India:
takes place in oak barrels, 4th Floor,
for a minimum of 3 years. Bhandari House,
The maturation site, which 91 Nehru Place,
is situated at an altitude of New Delhi
3,300 ft (1,000 m) above www.jagatjit.com
sea level in Bangalore, the
garden city of India, has a Jagatjit Industries
unique tropical condition. was founded in
During maturation, the 1944 by the late
whiskey loses almost half its LP Jaiswal in the
volume as “the angels’ share.” erstwhile state of
Amrut operates in a warm, humid As well as Amrut Single Kapurthala. The
climate, and consequently much Malt, the distillery also distillery was set up Jagatjit
of its maturing spirit evaporates. produces MaQintosh under the patronage Aristocrat
Asia 275
UB Group grew rapidly

and expansively by several
mergers and acquisitions.
Along with many whiskey
brands, it now owns the
famous Scottish distillers
and blenders Whyte &
Mackay (see p154).
The malt whiskey arm of
the UB Group has always
followed the “Scottish Rite,”
with distillation in pot stills
and maturation in oak casks
under the strict observation
of traditional periods of
ageing. McDowell’s also
carry out their malting
and kilning on site.
McDowell’s has headquarters original company was first Locally cultivated barley
and distilleries in Bangalore and established in 1898. The and water of the utmost
at Ponda (pictured) in Goa. name McDowell is derived purity contribute to the
from Macdougall, which shaping of a unique base
of its Maharajah, Jagatjit came from the Gaelic Dubh product such as McDowell’s
Singh. Today, the plant gall, meaning “dark stranger,” Single Malt, made at the
produces a variety of ENA and almost certainly referred group’s distillery at Ponda,
spirits and blended whiskies, to the Danish Vikings that in the province of Goa.
as well as one malt whiskey, began to settle in Scotland One of the largest
which is called Aristocrat 1,000 years ago. distilleries in India, Ponda
Premium Malt Whiskey. Whatever the etymology, is responsible for the
it was one Angus McDowell production of a range of
who started the firm in malts and blends for both
Kasauli Scotland to market products domestic and international
See Mohan Meakin to Britons staying in various markets. The most successful
corners of the Empire. In of these is the No. 1
India, the McDowell base McDowell’s Whiskey, which,
McDowell’s had its warehouses north of according to the company’s
India:
Fort St. George in Madras. sales figures, is the 5th best
51 Le Parc Richmonde, From its beginnings in selling whiskey in the world;
Richmond Road,
1898 as a small importer it is also quite possibly the
Bangalore
of wine and spirits to India, fastest growing. The distillery
www.clubmcdowell.com McDowell grew to become uses traditional pot stills, and
the subcontinent’s the whiskies are usually aged
These days McDowell’s, undisputed leader in the for no more than 3 years,
India’s biggest brand of spirits market. In 1951, because of the fact that
whiskey, is owned by United the late Mr. Vittal Mallya, they mature quickly in
Spirits (a division of the founder of the UB Group, the warm climate.
mighty UB Group), but the acquired McDowell. The McDowell’s Single Malt
• A very light
42.8% ABV
satisfying the local market nose, with just a hint
of grain and malt
The lion’s share of Asian distilleries are either converted
ethanol factories or ethanol factories that also distil some MacDowell No 1
neutral alcohol as a side operation. Few were initially set
up as sole producers of alcohol for consumption, with the
exception of those established by British expatriates.
At the time of writing, only a handful of Asian
whiskey producers distil spirit that passes
international guidelines for what constitutes whiskey
(see p276). Consequently, Asian whiskies seldom
find their way onto the supermarket shelves of the
global market. Local whiskeylike products rarely travel
beyond their national borders, except as tourist souvenirs.
276 whiskey nations
understanding asian whiskey

The Asian spirits industry was established by expatriates in the 18th,
19th, and 20th centuries to distil and bottle alcohol primarily for the
British forces. Western types of alcohol such as brandy, gin, rum,
vodka, and whiskey became collectively known as “LMFL.”
The initials LMFL stood for “locally usually color adjusted with spirit
made foreign liquor.” The term caramel, and is not matured. Most
was used widely in Asia, though in Asian whiskies are in this category.
India the term IMFL, or “Indian Blended Whiskey Asian blended
Made Foreign Liquor,” was whiskies are a mix of ENA
preferred. This categorization whiskey and a portion of
became an instrument to either locally produced malt
balance the domestic alcohol whiskey or bulk imported
industry against the import Scotch whisky. Sometimes
trade. No national rules an age statement is given.
defining raw material and In such cases it is the age of
process were, or indeed are, the bulk imported whiskey
attached to the LMFL/IMFL. that is presented. However,
However, if production is MacDowell’s as the product contains
destined for export aimed at a Vintage ENA, it does not meet EU
specific market, such as the whiskey regulation.
European Union, then regulations Pure malt whiskey These are blends
prevailing at the target market have to of 100 percent malt whiskies from two
be followed. With tight EU rules for or more domestic or foreign distilleries.
whiskey designation, very little Asian Any pure malt whiskey matured in oak
spirit reaches this market. casks for 3 years or more qualifies for
the EU classification.
Definitions Single malt whiskey As with a
ENA whiskey Extra Neutral Alcohol Scottish malt, this is a pure malt
(ENA) is fermented and distilled in whiskey from a single distillery.
continuous stills using molasses, rice,
The bottling plant at the Jagatjit Distillery
millet, buckwheat, or any other produces a wide variety of spirits, but just
fermentable product. ENA whiskey is one malt whiskey, Aristocrat Premium.
malt whiskies; and No.1 When he built his distillery,
MeHkong whiskey? McDowell’s Centenary Edward Dyer had to sail the
Blended, which is a British-made equipment the
Thai Beverage Public
traditional blended Scotch, entire length of the Ganges River
Company Ltd. (ThaiBev) was (pictured) to reach Kasauli.
incorporated in 2003 in an using malt and grain whiskey.
effort to consolidate
Thailand’s leading beer and Mohan became the majority
spirits businesses. ThaiBev
MOHAN MEAKIN shareholder in the company
now controls all the major India:
and then its managing
Thai “whiskey” brands, Solan Distillery and Brewery,
director in 1949. The firm
including the well-known Shimla Hills, Solan, Himachal eventually changed name
Mehkong Whiskey. However, Pradesh; Kasauli Distillery, Solan to Mohan Meakin in 1967.
these spirits are no longer District, Himachal Pradesh Today, the company has
marketed by ThaiBev as www.mohanmeakin.com
two distilleries, one at Solan
whiskey, but as “Thai Rum.” and the other at Kasauli,
The origins of Mohan in the Himalayas. At an
Meakin go back to the altitude of over 6,600 ft
mid‑19th century and to an (2,000 m), Kasauli is the
Englishman named Edward highest distillery in the world.
Dyer. He set up the first When he established the
brewery in India at Kasauli in distillery, Dyer brought with
1855, and made indigenous
beer available to Indians as Nepal’s distillery
well as Britons. The Kasauli
plant switched to distilling Founded by Mathura Prasad
when the brewery moved Maskey, Shree Distillery at
to nearby Solan, and Dyer Naxal in Kathmandu, Nepal,
went on to set up furhter has been producing liquors
breweries at Simla, Murree, since 1992, with the
MacDowell’s Single Malt Rawalpindi, and Mandalay. technical assistance of
Another entrepreneur from T & A MacClelland Ltd. and
that combine to form the UK, HG Meakin, came Morrison Bowmore Distillers
a creamy note. The palate to India and bought the old of Scotland. Although their
is soft and somewhat Simla and Solan breweries produce uses ENA, and so
reminiscent of stewed from Edward Dyer. He doesn’t qualify as whiskey
peaches. A short, sweet finish. added more breweries in the internationally
Among the other whiskies at Ranikhet, Dalhousie, accepted definition, the
produced by McDowell’s Chakrata, Darjeeling, and Mount Everest brand is
are: McDowell’s Vintage, Kirkee in the early 20th worth a mention, as it is
which is a pure malt whiskey, century. The Dyer and blended with Scotch malt
matured in oak casks; Meakin businesses merged supplied by Morrison
McDowell’s Premium in 1937. Following India’s Bowmore Distillers.
Blended, a blend of pure independence in 1947, NN
278 whiskey nations
him distillation equipment to develop. It is, in fact,

from England and Scotland the oldest whiskey distillery drinking in pakistan
that had to be shipped the in Asia, and one of Under the laws of Pakistan,
full length of the Ganges the oldest distilleries in Muslims are prohibited
River before being carted the entire world. from consuming alcoholic
up the Himalayas to its Among the whiskies drinks. Non-Muslims and
current location. Some of produced by Mohan Meakin foreigners require a
the same equipment is still are Colonel’s Special consumption permit which
in use today. Whiskey and Solan No. 1 is issued by provincial
The difficult location was Whiskey—both are blends. governments and
selected not just because Islamabad (for the capital
of the abundance of fresh territory). However in most
spring water and because Murree
cases a liquor retailer will
the climate was similar Pakistan: assist in obtaining a permit.
to the cooler climes National Park Road,
of Scotland, but also PO Box No. 13,
because it was then ruled Rawalpindi range of the Western
by the British, so there www.murreebrewery.com
Himalayas. The original
was a ready market intention for the brewery
for those that were As well as founding was to supply locally
stationed abroad and the Solan and Kasauli produced alcohol to British
homesick for their distilleries, Edward troops stationed in India, but
traditional spirit. Dyer also established the beer also became a local
It was the growth of the Murree Brewery, hit and was in high demand
the town of Kasauli which was originally with the rest of the populace.
that precipitated the constructed in 1860. Providing a steady supply
move to Solan, as It is now situated in proved to be difficult,
demands on the Rawalpindi, though however, as a series of
mountain spring its name recalls a earthquakes and fires caused
water grew. But while hill station near the interruptions to the
the brewery was earlier plant, built by production process. Scarcity
forced to move, it left Murree Dyer, at Ghora Galli of water at Ghora Galli
room for the distillery 8-Year-Old in the Pir Punjal became an emerging
problem also, and by the
Taiwan’s newest distillery 1920s, production was
mostly transferred to the
A Scottish design and manufacturing firm has recently Rawalpindi Brewery, though
(in 2006) completed a $30 million project to create Taiwan’s the malting continued at
first-ever malt whiskey distillery. Forsyth’s, which has its Ghora Galli until the 1940s.
headquarters in Rothes, Scotland, was heavily involved in The Rawalpindi site is
the successful construction and design of the distillery, blessed with aquifers
which is located in northeast Taiwan. delivering water of a very
Working in association with the distillery’s owners, King
high quality.
In 1947, when the new
Car Food Industrial (www.kingcar.com.tw), a Taiwanese soft
state of Pakistan was
drink and food firm, Forsyth’s built and installed the milling,
formed, Murree became the
mashing, and distilling equipment. It produced the four-ton country’s first and only legal
stainless-steel mash tun, with a copper cover, two 2,500- single malt whiskey distillery.
gallon (11,000-liter) wash stills, and two 1,450-gallon (6,500- The distillery, designed as a
liter) spirit stills, complete with their condensers and spirit classic scotch malt whisky
safes. In addition, Buhler UK supplied the milling system, while distillery, underwent several
all other equipment, vessels, and pipework, were designed by modernizing programs from
Forsyth’s and built in Taiwan. Casks acquired for maturation the 1960s onward. In 1967
are predominantly ex-bourbon. Maturation will be performed a German brew house was
in line with Scottish guidelines. installed, followed by a box
The fully automated distillery, which took a year to design maltings system in 1971.
and build, is set to produce 220,000 gallons (one million liters) More recently, the distilling
of alcohol every year. All the operations at the distillery can be capacity was increased in the
remotely monitored from Grants engineering firm at Dufftown in 1990s by the installation of
Scotland. There, staff will be able to keep a check on all the two alcohol rectification
distilling processes right around the clock. Grants (not to be
columns for producing
alcohol from molasses.
mistaken with WM Grant & Sons) is part of the Forsyth group.
An ambitious long-term
—and still ongoing program
Asia 279
to mature malt whiskies was

introduced in the late 1960s. Ponda
Over the past four decades See McDowell’s
oak casks and vats have been
acquired, not only from
North America and Spain, RADICO KhAITAN
but also from Australia. India:
Murree’s two underground Plot J-I, Block B-I,
cellars now hold over Mohan Co-operative Industrial
110,000 gallons (half a Area,
million liters) of malt Mathura Road, New Delhi
whiskey under controlled www.radicokhaitan.com
temperature conditions.
The whiskey is ageing Radico Khaitan is one of
for varying periods of India’s oldest and largest Radico Khaitan’s 8PM
maturation, some of it liquor manufacturers.
for up to 20 years. Formerly known as rectified alcohol; as well
An unusual aspect Rampur Distillery, it as ethanol and gasoline for
of this distillery, due was established in an industrial market. The
in part to the rather 1943, but it wasn’t distillery’s brands now include
diversified interests until 1999 that the the previously mentioned
most of the major company remarketed 8PM, 8PM Royale Whiskey,
distilleries in Asia itself and produced Whytehall, and Royal
have, is that the the 8PM brand, Cambridge. Its smaller,
company produces designed to appeal to a regional brands include
its own glass bottles more international 8PM Contessa Deluxe,
within its glass Radico Khaitan’s customer base. Crown, and Golfinger.
division. 8PM Royale Prior to that, the All are blended whiskies.
Murree’s Premium products were mostly
Malt Whiskies spirits made using ENA Since 1999, Radico Khaitan has
The premium malt (extra neutral alcohol), in started to produce a decent range
expressions from Murree which molasses or other of blended whiskies, and is
are produced from a malt flavorings were added; having success with 8PM brand.
mash, distilled in traditional
pot stills, and matured in
imported oak-wood casks
for guaranteed periods.
The range includes the
Millennium Reserve
21-Year-Old Single Malt,
Murree’s Millennium Reserve
12-Year-Old Single Malt, and
Murree’s Classic 8-Year-Old
Single Malt.
Radico Khaitan’s Whytehall

280 whiskey
Glossary top of the still, where the vapor leaves to be

condensed as a very pure (90+%ABV) spirit.
ABV (alcohol by volume) This is the cut points In the process of pot still
proportion of alcohol in a drink, expressed distillation, the operator divides the run into
as a percentage. Whiskey is most commonly three “cuts” to separate useable spirit from
bottled at 40% or 43% ABV. rejected spirit, which must be redistilled. The
analyzer still see continuous still first cut contains the foreshots; the middle cut
angels’ share The expression given for the is the section of useable spirit; the end cut
amount of liquid that evaporates from the contains the feints or aftershots.
cask during the period of maturation. draff The Scottish name for the remains
batch distillation Distillation carried out of the grain after mashing. It can be dried
in batches, as opposed to continuous distillation. and used for cattle feed.
Each batch may be marginally different, eau de vie Literally, “water of life,” and
which gives the method an artisanal quality. usually used in reference to grape-based
barrel see cask spirits. Compare with uisge beatha.
cask The oak container in which whiskey expression The term given to a particular
is matured. There are many different styles whiskey in relation to the overall output of
and sizes of cask, as well as a principle a distillery or spirits company. It may refer
distinction between the type of wood used: to the age, as in a 12‑year-old expression, or
American or European oak. In the US, to a particular characteristic, such as a cask
whiskey is most commonly matured in strength expression.
barrels (48–53 gallons). American barrels end cut see cut points
are re-used elsewhere; in Scotland, they are feints The final fraction of the spirit
often broken down and re-assembled as produced during a distillation run. Feints
re‑made hogsheads (66 gallons). Butts and (also called tails) are aromatically unpleasant,
puncheons (both 132 gallons) are the largest and are sent to feints and foreshots receiver
casks used for maturing whiskey, having first to be mixed with low wines and redistilled
been seasoned with or used to age sherry. with the next run.
cask finishing Using a different cask for fermenter Another name for a mash tun.
the final period of maturation, such as port, first fill The first time a cask has been used
madeira, or French wine casks. to hold whiskey other than bourbon, it is
cask strength Whiskey that is bottled referred to as a first-fill cask. A first-fill sherry
straight from the cask rather than first being cask will have held only sherry prior to its
diluted. It is typically around 57–63% ABV. use for maturing whiskey; a first-fill bourbon
clearic see new make cask will have been used once only to hold
continuous distillation The process of bourbon prior to its use in maturing whiskey.
creating spirit as an ongoing process as foreshots The first fraction of the
opposed to batch distillation. It cannot be distillation run in pot-still distillation.
carried out in a pot still and requires instead Foreshots (also known as heads) are not pure
a continuous still. enough to be used and are returned to feints
condenser Vaporized spirit driven off the and foreshots receiver to be redistilled in the
stills is turned into liquid in a condenser. next run.
Traditionally, these were “worm tubs”—a grist Ground, malted grain. Water is added
tapering coil of copper pipe set in a vat of to grist to form the mash.
cold water outside the still house. Worm tubs heads see foreshots
have largely been superseded by shell-and- high wines (US) A mix of spirit that has
tube condensers, usually inside the still house. had its first distillation and the foreshots and
continuous still A continuous still (also feints from the second distillation, at around
known as a Coffey, Patent, or column still) 28% ABV. High wines undergo a second
consists of an analyzer and a rectifier. Wash distillation to create new make.
enters the analyser and is heated by steam, kilning Heating of the “green malt” to halt
vaporizing the alcohol. The alcoholic vapor its germination and thereby retain its starch
leaves the analyzer and enters the rectifier. content for turning into sugars in the
There, it goes through a process of heating mashing stage and, ultimately, alcohol.
and partial condensing until it reaches the low wines The spirit produced by the first
glossary 281
distillation. It has a strength of about 21% than passing along the lyne arm to the
ABV. Compare with high wines. condenser. By falling back, these vapors are
lyne arm (or “lye pipe”) The pipe running redistilled, becoming purer and lighter.
from the still to the condenser. The lyne Certain shapes of still contribute to the
arm’s angle, height, and thickness all have a degree of reflux, which may or may not
bearing on the characteristics of the spirit. be desirable, depending on the style of
malting The process of deliberately whiskey being made. Long-necked stills
starting and then stopping germination in have a greater degree of reflux and
grain. As the grain begins to germinate produce a lighter style of spirit than
(through the influence of heat and moisture), squatter stills, which tend to make heavier,
it becomes “green malt” (grain that has just “oilier” whiskies.
begun to sprout). The green malt undergoes run In batch distillation—as carried out
kilning to produce malt. using pot stills—the extent of a distillation is
marrying This refers to the mixing and referred to as a run. The spirit produced
maturing of whiskies. It most often applies to during the run is variable in quality, and is
blends, where whiskies of different types and divided by cut points.
from several distilleries are combined for a silent distillery a distillery in which
period in vats or casks prior to bottling. whiskeymaking has stopped, but possibly
mash The mix of grist and water. only temporarily.
mash tun The vessel in which the grist is silent spirit neutral-flavored spirit.
mixed with hot water to convert starch in the spirits safe a glass-fronted cabinet through
grain into sugars, ready for fermentation. which the distilled spirit passes and which is
The fermentable liquid that results is known used to monitor the purity of the spirit. The
as worts; the solid residue (husks and spent stillman operates the spirits safe during a run
grain) is draff. to make cut points.
maturation For new make spirit to become still The vessel in which distillation takes
whiskey, it must go through a period of place. There are two basic types: a pot still
maturation in oak casks. The length of and a continuous still.
time varies; in Scotland and Ireland, the tails see feints
minimum period is three years. triple distillation Most batch distillation
middle cut see cut points involves two distillations: in a wash still and
new make The clear, useable spirit that in a spirits still. Triple distillation, the
comes from the spirit still. It has a strength traditional method in Ireland, involves a
of about 70% ABV, and is dilluted to around third distillation, which is said to produce
63–64% before being put into casks for a smoother spirit.
maturation. In the US, new make is called uisge beatha / uisce beatha The Scots
white dog. gaelic and Irish gaelic terms, respectively,
peating Adding peat to the kiln ovens when from which the word whiskey derives. The
malting barley to impart a smoky, phenolic term means “water of life,” and so is
aroma and taste to the whiskey. Barley that synonymous with eau de vie and aqua vita.
has undergone this process is known as uisce poitín Historically, the Irish gaelic
peated malt. term for non-licensed whiskey, usually known
poteen see uisce poitín as poitín or poteen.
pot still The large onion-shaped vessels, wash The resultant liquid when yeast is
nearly always made of copper, used for batch added to worts, fermenting into a kind of ale.
distillation. Pot stills vary in size, and these Wash has an alcoholic strength of about 7%
variations affect the style of whiskey. ABV. It passes into the wash still for the
proof The old term for the alcoholic first distillation.
proportion of a spirit that has been washbacks The fermenting vessels in
superseded by ABV in most countries. The which yeast is added to the worts to make
American proof figure, which is different to wash. Called “fermenters” in the US.
Imperial proof, is twice that of the ABV. white dog see new make
rectifier still see continuous still worm / worm tubs see condensers
reflux The process by which heavier worts The sweet liquid produced as a result
alcoholic vapors fall back into the still rather of mixing hot water with grist.
282 whiskey
Index
barrels 31 Burns, Robert 127, 148, 150
Barton Brands 141, 187, Bushmills 159, 160, 161,
223, 233 162, 169, 172
Bauernhof 256
8PM whiskies 279
100 Pipers 50, 118 Basil Hayden’s 197, 212 C
Baxter’s Barley Bree 120 Caledonian 113
A Begg, John 93, 94
Belgian Owl 261
Cambus 113
Cameronbridge 111, 136
A.H. Hirsch Bourbon 214
A Smith Bowman 185 Bell’s 57, 79, 120, 122 Campbeltown 47, 48,
Aberfeldy 77, 130 see also Arthur Bell & Sons 94–5, 248
Aberlour 19, 49, 125 Belgian whiskey 261 Canadian Club 229–31
Adelphi 39 Belmont Farms 204 Canadian Mist 223
ageing see maturation Benmore 120 Canadian whiskey 35, 219–33
Akuto, Ichiro see Ichiro Akuto Ben Nevis Distillery 78, 236 style 222, 225
Alberta Distillery 221 Benriach 52, 69 Caol Ila 103, 120, 139
Allt a’ Bhainne 49, 118 Benromach 52 Caperdonich 53
American whiskey 183–217 Bernheim Distillery 192, 193 Capone, Al 208, 210
American Whiskey Trail 207 Berry Brothers & Rudd 127 Cardhu 53, 54
Ammertal Whiskey 263 Bertrand 256 Carsebridge 113
Amrut 274 Biawa 61 Cascade Distillery 191
Anchor Distilling Co. 204 Black & White 47, 66, 82, 123 casks 30–33
Ancient Age 212 Black Bottle 102, 123 cask finishing 33
anCnoc 68 Black Douglas 124 Catdaddy Moonshine 207
angels’ share 32, 83 Black Velvet 232 Catto’s 124
Angus Dundee 75, 83 Bladnoch 108 Cayard, Jean-Pierre 140
Antiquity, The 118 Blair Athol 79, 120, 122, 148 Charbay 204
Ardbeg 99 Blanton’s Bourbon 189, 212 Chichibu 240
Ardmore 77, 152 Blaue Maus 256 Chivas Brothers 47, 53,
Arran Distillery, Isle of blended whiskey 34, 36–7 57, 74, 90, 113, 118, 121,
90, 148–9, 157 blended American 186 124, 125, 126, 141, 146,
Arthur Bell & Sons 57, blended Asian 276 148–9, 151, 152
67, 79, 122, 148 blended Irish 169–77 Chivas Regal 50, 61, 124
see also Bell’s blended Scotch 116–157 Churchill, Sir Winston 136
Asian whiskey 273–9 Boehm, Jacob 196 Clan Campbell 49, 125
styles 276 Bonnie Prince Charlie 157 Clan MacGregor 125
Asyla 119 Booker’s Kentucky Bourbon Claymore, The 125
Auchentoshan 108 197, 213 Clear Creek 204
Auchroisk 50 Boston Distillery 197 Clermont Distillery 196, 197
Aultmore 50, 154 bottlers see independent Clontarf 161, 169
Austin Nichols bottlers Cluny 127
Distilling Co. 199 bourbon 30–31, 35, 186 Clynelish 80
Australasian whiskey 267–71 Bourbon Heritage Center 193 Coaster, The 271
Austrian whiskey 255, 261, Bowmore 99–100, 205 cocktails 39
263, 264, 265 Braeval 53, 118 Coffey, Aeneas 27, 110, 116,
Braunstein 257 159, 172
B Bronfman, Sam 36, 126,
211, 219
Coffey still
see column still
Bacardi 130, 155
Bailie Nicol Jarvie 62, 119 Brora 80 Collins, Michael
Baker’s Kentucky Bourbon Brown, John 94 see Michael Collins
197, 212 Brown-Forman 188, 201, 223 Colonel’s Special Whisky 278
Bakery Hill 268 Bruichladdich 101 column still 27, 28
Balblair 78 Buchanan, James 66, 117, see also Coffey, Aeneas
Ballantine’s 57, 72, 119, 121 123, 124 Compass Box 111, 119, 157
Balmenach 50–51 Buchanan’s 124 condensers 29
Balvenie 22, 32, 51, 134 Buffalo Trace 188 Connemara Malts 163
Bardinet, Paul 150 Bulleit Bourbon 213 continuous distillation 26, 159
barley 20 Bunnahabhain 98, 102 Cook & Bernheimer 81
Barley Bridge 181 Burnfoot 84, 85 Cooley 160, 163, 164, 165,
Barnard, Alfred 50, 154, 161 Burn Stewart Distillers 97, 166, 172, 175
102, 123, 150 copper 27
index 283
Copper Fox 205 Distillers Company Ltd. French whiskey 255, 256, 257,
Cor, Friar John 45 see DCL 258, 260, 264
Cork Distilleries Company Doig, Charles 49, 52, 55, Frysk Hynder 262
(CDC) 167, 175 59, 72 Fuji-Gotemba 239
corn 20 Domaine Mavela 257 Fujisanroku 250
corn whiskey 35, 186 Don’t Look Now 70
Cornish Cyder Farm 181 Douglas Laing 39 G
Cradle Mountain 270 Drambuie 157 Gaelic Whiskey Company 147
Cragganmore 54 Duff, James 56 Gentleman Jack 194
Craig, Elijah 183 Duff, John 52, 62, 69 George V, King 140
Craigellachie 55 Dufftown 56, 120, 122 George VI, King 224
Crawford’s 127 Dumbarton 113 George Dickel 191
Crested Ten 169 Duncan Tayor 39 George T Stagg 189, 214
Crow, James 200 Dungourney 1964 163 Georgia Moon 193
Crown Royal 224 Dutch whisky 255, 262, 265 German whiskey 255, 256,
Cumming, Elizabeth Dyer, Edward 277, 278 258, 259, 261, 262, 263
54, 58 Gilbey, Sir Walter 117
Cumming, John 53 E Gimli 223
cut points 29 Eagle Rare 213 Girvan 111, 135
Cutty Sark 66, 127 Early Times 188 Glan ar Mor 258
Czech whiskey 261 Eddu Silver 257 glasses 40, 41
Edgefield 205 Glen Breton 228
D Edradour 82, 157 Glen Deveron 156
DCL (Distillers Edrington Group 75, 90, 102, Glen Elgin 59
Company Ltd.) 47, 62, 112, 127, 132 Glen Garioch 83
67, 71, 92, 95, 97, 111, 120, Edward VII 59 Glen Grant 61, 146
124, 131, 134, 136, 143 Edward VIII, Glen Moray 62
DYC 255, 258 Duke of Winsor 176 Glen Ord 88
Daftmill 109 Edward, Alexander 50, Glen Scotia 88
Dailuaine 56 55, 56 Glen Spey 66
Dai-nippon-kaju 235 Edward, David 52 Glenallachie 57
Dallas Dhu 56 Elijah Craig 183, 191, 213 Glenburgie 57, 120
Dalmore 80 Elizabeth II, Queen 148–9, Glencadam 83
Dalwhinnie 81 224 Glendronach 83
Danish whiskey 257 Elmer T. Lee 213 Glendullan 59, 139
Deanston 150 English whiskey 179–81 Glenfarclas 59
Deatsville Distillery 198 Evan Williams 183, 191, 213 Glenfiddich 30, 46, 47,
Delmé-Evans, William Excise Act of 1823 47, 48 51, 58, 60, 134, 135, 157
57, 91, 97 Glengoyne 84
Des Menhirs 257 F Glenkinchie 109, 120
Dewar, John 117, 131 Famous Grouse 66, 88, 102, Glenlivet 46, 48, 61, 63,
see also Dewar’s 132, 133 146, 154
Dewar, Tommy 78, 117, 124, Famous Grouse Glenlossie 62
131 see also Dewar’s Experience 90 Glenmorangie 47, 85, 119,
Dewar’s 50, 56, 77, 88, 92, Feckin’ Irish Whiskey 172 136, 143
94, 130, 131, 155 fermentation 26 Glenora 228
Dewar’s World of Whiskey 78 Fettercairn 82 Glenrothes 66, 127, 132
Diageo Findlater 134 Glentauchers 66
Scotch blends 118, 120, Findlater, Alexander 134 Glenturret 88, 132, 157
123, 124, 127, 130, 131, Findlater, James 72 Golden Horse 240, 250
136, 137, 139, 140, 141, Finnish whiskey 262 Gordon & MacPhail 39,
143, 148, 153, 154, 156 Fisselier 258 52, 72
Scottish distilleries 47, 54, Flaherty, Paddy see Paddy Gotemba 236, 237, 250
55, 59, 67, 73, 79, 82, 88, Fleming, James 49, 56 Gotland Distillery 259
92, 94, 103, 104, 109, 111, food pairing 41 grain 20
112, 113 Ford, John 166 grain distilleries 110–111
Irish whiskey 162 Fortune Brands 105, 121, 152, grain whiskey 34, 110–111
US whiskey 191, 192 197, 199, 255, 258 Grand Macnish 134
Dimple 136 Forty Creek Barrel Select 231 Grand Met 79, 192
distillation 19, 26–9 Four Roses 189 Grant, Major James 53, 61
284 whiskey
Grant, John 59, 61 Invergordon 112 Kininvie 67, 134

Grant, William 51 Inver House Distillers 68, 73, Kirin 190, 236, 237, 250
Grant’s 134 see also 78, 93, 124, 136, 143, 147 Kittling Ridge 231
William Grant & Sons Inver House Green Plaid 137 Knappogue Castle 166
Great Southern 268 Iona 45 Knob Creek 197, 215
Greenore 165 Irish coffee 161 Knockando 67
Green Spot 165, 168 Irish Distillers Group (IDG) Knockdhu 68
Gruel 258 162, 165, 167, 174, 176 Koshimizu, Seiichi 249
Grüner Hund Vintage 256 Irishman, The 165, 172 Kotobukiya 235, 236
Gruppo Campari 146 Irish whiskey 34, 159–175 Krottentaler Vintage 256
Guillon 258 blends 169–77
Guinness 79, 192 malts & pure pot stills 161–8 L
Isaiah Morgan 206 Label 5 140
H Islay 98–105 Lagavulin 104, 139, 154
Haig 113, 116, 136 Islay Distillery Company 102 Laing, Jimmy 38
Hakushu 236, 238–9 Isle of Arran Distillers 90, Lakeland Whiskey 265
Hancock’s President’s 148–9, 157 Lammerlaw 271
Reserve 214 Langs 140
Hanyu 240, 250, 251 J Laphroaig 104
Happy Hollow 198 J&B 50, 66, 68, 137 Lark Distillery 269
Harper President’s J&G Grant & Sons 60, 61 Latvian whiskey 260
Reserve, IW 214 J.T.S. Brown Distillery 199 Latvijas Balzams 260
Hart Bros 39 Jack Daniel’s 23, 194–5 Lauder’s 141
Hay, Charles 57 Jacobite Uprising 45, 48 Legend of the Dew
Hazelburn 96, 248 Jagatjit 274 of Ben Nevis
Heaven Hill 191, 192 James IV, King 97 visitor center 79
Hedonism 111 Jameson 159, 172, 174 Leopold Bros 206
Hellyers Road 269 Japanese oak 249 Lincoln County Process 191
Hemingway, Ernest 134 Japanese whiskey 35, 235–53 Linkwood 68
Henry McKenna 193 brands & blends 250–53 Loch Fyne 141
Hibiki 251 malts 237–49 Loch Lomond 88, 91, 112
High Plains Inc. 206 style 241, 244, 245, 249 Locke’s 163, 166, 173, 175
Highland Distillers 75, 90, 133 Jim Beam 78, 194, 196 Long John 75, 141
Highland Park 89, 90, 132 John Dewar & Sons Long John’s Dew of
Highland Queen 62, 85, 136 see Dewar’s Ben Nevis 79
Highlands 45, 48, 76–97 John Jameson & Son Long John
Highwood 229 see Jameson Macdonald 79, 141
Hiram Walker 72, 121, 219, John Power & Son see Powers Longmorn 69, 71, 248, 249
229–31 John Walker & Sons Longrow 96
Hirsch Bourbon, AH 214 see Johnnie Walker Lotte Group 150
Hof Holle 259 Johnnie Walker 54, 56, 88, Louisville Distillery 201
hogsheads 31 113, 138–40 Lowlands 45
Hokuto 251 Johnny Drum 214 LVMH 85, 116
Höhler 259 Johnson, Dr. Samuel 45
Hombu 252 Joynson, Richard 141 M
Hoover, Herbert 210 Jura 90, 155 Macallan 46, 47, 70, 71, 127,
Hudson Baby Bourbon 209 Justerini & Brooks see J&B 132, 236
MacArthur’s 143
I K MacCallum, Duncan 88
IW Harper President’s Karuizawa 240 Macdonald & Muir 62,
Reserve 214 Kasauli 273, 278 85, 119, 136
Ian Macleod Distillers 39, 85 Kemp, Roderick 70, 95 Macdonald, David 116
Ichiro Akuto 240, 251, 249 Kentucky Bourbon Distillers Macduff International 134,
Ichiro’s Malt 240, 251, 249 214, 215 141
Imperial 67 Kentucky Gentleman 187 Mackenzie, Compton 82, 140
Inchgower 67, 120 Kessler 215 Mackenzie, Peter 57, 79, 148
independent bottlers 38–9 Kilbeggan 163, 165, 173 Mackenzie, The 271
Indian whiskey 35, 273–9 Kilchoman 103 Mackenzie, Thomas 56
styles 276 King Car Food 278 Mackie, Peter 55, 105, 153
Inishowen 172 King’s Ransom 82 Mackmyra 260
index 285
MacLeod, Ian 140 New Zealand whiskey 267, poteen 159, 177
Maison le Vignettes 260 270–71 pot stills 27, 28
Maker’s Mark 198 Nicol, Miss 57 pot still whiskey 168
Mallya, Vijay 90, 275 Nikka 79, 141, 236, 242–3, Potter’s Distillery 229
malting 24 248, 252–3 Powers 159, 167, 176
malt whiskey 34, 47 Niven, David 68 Pràban na Linne 147
Mannochmore 62 Noah’s Mill 215 Prince Charles 105
maps Nockland Whiskey 265 Prohibition 184, 208,
distilleries of: Noe, Booker and Fred 196 210–11, 219
Asia 274 North British 112
Australasia 268 North of Scotland Malt Q
England and Wales 180 Distillers’ Association 117 Queen Anne (blend) 146
Europe 256 nosing whiskey 40–41 Queen Victoria 93, 94,
Ireland 160 117, 121
Scotland O Queen Elizabeth II
Highlands 77 oak 148–9, 224
Islay 99 European & US 23, 30, 32, Queen Elizabeth, the
Lowlands 108 Japanese 249 Queen Mother 140
Speyside 49 Oban 91 Quoll Quaff 271
US 184 Old Charter 215
Martin’s 140, 143 Old Crow 197, 201, 216 R
Mary, Queen of Scots 136 Old Fitzgerald 193 Rabel 261
mashing 24 Old Forester 188, 201 Radico Khaitan 279
Matheson, William 85 Old Grand-Dad 197, 216 Rampur Distillery 279
maturation 30–33 Old Parr 59, 143 Rankin, Ian 90
McCarthy’s Oregon Malt 205 Old Portrero 204 Real Mackenzie, The 148
McCoy, Captain William 127, Old Pulteney 92, 157 Rebel Yell 216
211 Old Smuggler 146 Rebus, Inspector 90
McGregor, James 50 Old Taylor 197, 216 Redbreast 166, 168
McDowell’s 275 Orkney 89 Reiner Mösslein 261
Meakin, H.G. 277 Our Man in Havana 153 Reisetbauer 261
Mehkong 277 Owl, The 261 Revie, Don 79
Mellow Corn 193 Richardson, Sir Albert 75
Michael Collins 166, 175 P Ridgemount Reserve 187
Michter’s 214 P&M whiskey 257 Rittenhouse Rye 193
microdistilleries 200–209 Paddy 175 Robert Burns (blend) 148
Midleton 160, 161, 165, 166, palate 40–41 Rob Roy 119
167, 172, 175, 176 Palliser 232 Rob Roy McGregor 151
Milford whiskey 271 Parr, Thomas 59, 143 Rock Hill Farm 216
Millars Special Reserve 175 Passport 61, 146 Roseisle 73
Millennium Reserve 279 Pattisons 59–60, 142 Royal Brackla 93
Millstone Whiskey 265 peat 23 Royal Cambridge 279
Miltonduff 72, 120 Penderyn 31, 179, 180 Royal Commission on
Miyagikyo 242–3 Pepper, Elijah 200 Whiskey 1908/09 117
Mohan Meakin 273, 277 Peregrine Rock 208 Royal Lochnagar 93, 94
Mohan, N.N. 277 Pernod Ricard Royal Salute 148
Monkey Shoulder 67 Scotch blends 118, 121, Rudolf Jelinek 261
Morcambe, Eric 79 124, 125, 126, 141, 143, Russell, Jimmy 199
Morrison Bowmore 84, 100, 146, 149, 151, 152 Russia 264
108, 236 Scottish distilleries 49, 50, rye 20
Mortlach 72, 135, 139 61, 66, 67, 71, 82, 94 rye whiskey 35, 186
Mount Vernon 206, 207 Irish whiskey 174
Mountain Moonshine 209 Canadian whiskey 229 S
Munro, Captain Hugh 96 see also Chivas Brothers St. Columba 45, 97
Murree 273, 278 Piedmont Distillers 207 St. Drostan 49
Pig’s Nose 147 St. George Spirits 207
N Pikesville Supreme 193 St. George’s 179, 181
Nant Distillery 269 Pinwinnie Royale 147 St. James Spirits 208
New Zealand Distillery Politician, SS 82, 140 St. Valentine’s Day
Company 267 Port Dundas 113 Massacre 219
286 whiskey
Saji, Keizo 236, 238 region 47, 48–75 Tullibardine 97

Sanderson, William 84, Spinnaker Vintage 257 Turkish whiskey 262
94, 153 Spirit of Speyside 72 Tuthilltown Spirits 209
Sazerac 185, 217 spirit safe 29 Tyrconnell 168
Scapa 94 Spirits Act of 1860 117
Schenley 233 Springbank 94 U
Schwarzer Pirat 257 Stein, Robert 110, 116 UB Group 83, 127, 154, 275
Scotch Blue 150 Stewart’s Cream of the Uberach Single Malt 256
Scotch Malt Whisky Barley 152 uisce beatha 159, 177
Society of Edinburgh Stock Plzen 261 uisge beatha 45
39, 249 Stranahan’s Whiskey 208 uisce poitín 177
Scotch whisky 34 Strathclyde 113 United Distillers 192
blended Scotch 116–157 Strathisla 74 Us Heit 262
Scotch malt 45–157 Strathmill 74 Usher, Andrew 63, 93,
regional styles 47, 76 Strathspey 82 117, 154
Scotch Whisky Association Stuart, James 66 Usher’s Green Stripe 154
60, 228 Sullivan’s Cove 271 Usher’s Old Vatted Glenlivet
Scotland 45–7 Suntory 100, 236, 238, 154
Highlands & Islands 249, 251
76–97 Sutherland, V
Islay 98–105 1st Duke of 80 Vallei 262
Lowlands 108–9 Swedish whiskey 259, 260 Valleyfield 232
Orkney 89 Swiss whiskey 256, 259, 264, Van Winkle Whiskies 217
Speyside 48–75 265 Vat 69 84, 94, 153
Scott, Allan vatted malts 34
see Shiach, Allan T Victoria, Queen 93, 94,
Scott, Sir Walter 118, 119 Takara Co. Ltd 97 117, 121
Scotti 91 Taketsuru, Masataka 235, Virginia Gentleman 185
Scottish Leader 150 248, 253 Volker Theurer 263
Seagram 53, 61, 62, 71, 74, Taketsuru Pure Malt 253
118, 124, 126, 148, 162, Talisker 47, 95, 96, 139 W
190, 219, 236, 237 Tamdhu 74 W.L. Weller 217
Seagram’s Seven Crown 217 Tangle Ridge 221 Waldviertler Roggenhof 263
Sendai 236, 242, 252–3 Tasmania Distillery 271 Walker, Billy 52
Shackleton, Sir Ernest 153 Tasmania Single Malt 269 Wambrechies 264
Shiach, Allan 70 Tasmanian whiskey 267, Warenghem 264
Shinshu 252 269–71 wash 26
Shirakawa 252 tasting 40–41 Wash Act of 1784 46
Shirofuda 235 Teacher, William 77, 83, 152 washbacks 25
Shree Distillery 277 Teacher’s 77, 83, 152 Washington, George 209
Signatory 39 Teaninich 96 Wasmund’s 205
single malt whiskey 34, 47, Teeling, John 163 water 21, 40
276 Teerenpeli 262 Wayne, John 166
Sir Edward’s 150 Tekel Distillery 262 Weidenauer 264
Slyrs 261 Templeton Rye 208 Welsh whiskey 179–80
Small Concern 270 Ten High 187 West Virginia Distilling 209
Smith, George 63 Tennessee whiskey 35, 186 Weutz 264
Smith, John 54 Thompson, Hunter S 124 wheat 20
Smith’s 270 Tintin 91 wheat whiskey 186
Solan No. 1 Whiskey 278 Toa Shuzo 240 Whesskey/Whesky 259
Something Special 151 toasting 32 Whiskey Rebellion (1794) 209
Sonnenschein 262 Tobermory 96 whiskey
Sorrell Distillery 267 Tom More 187 blending 36–8
Southern Distilling Company Tomatin 97, 118, 236 bottling 38–9
270 Tomintoul 75 cocktails 39
Southern Moon 206 Tormore 75, 141 ingredients 20–23
Spanish whiskey 255, 258 Torri, Shinjiro 235 liqueurs 157
Speyburn 72 Towser 88 maturation 30–33
Speyside Triple Eight 209 nosing and tasting 40–41
distillery 73 Tullamore 166, 176 production 19, 24–9
index 287
types 34–5 William Lawson’s 155 Woodstone Creek 209

Whiskey Castle 264 Williams, Evan 183 World Whiskey Awards 253
Whisky Galore 82, 140 Williamson, Bessie 105 worm tubs 29
Whisky Magazine 249 Wilson’s 267, 271 wort 25
White Horse 55, 59, 113, 153 Winchester Cellars 233
Whyte & Mackay 38, 75 Windsor (Canadian blend) Y
80–81, 90, 112, 127, 134, 221 Yamazaki 235, 244–5
147, 153, 154 Windsor (Scotch blend) 156 yeast 20
Whytehall whiskey 279 Winkle Whiskies, Van 217 Yoichi 235, 248–9, 252, 253
Wild Geese 177 Wiser’s Whiskies 231
Wild Turkey 199 Wolfram Ortner 265 Z
William Grant 72 wood 23 Zuidam Distillery 255, 265
William Grant & Sons 51, Woodford Reserve 33, Zürcher 265
67, 111, 125, 134 200, 201
acknowledgments: contributors
Dave Broom Whiskies Conference. Ian The Whiskey Couple
Dave is a contributing editor to writes for Whisky Magazine, (www.thewhiskycouple.com).
Whisky Magazine, a regular Scottish Field, and The Times, He has written and translated
columnist on many periodicals, and recently published a new 15 books on whisk(e)y. Hans
has written ten books, and won edition of Aeneas MacDonald’s also contributes to Whisky
three Glenfiddich Awards for 1930 classic Whisky. He is Passion, Whiskyetc, The Malt
his writing. He is a respected currently working on a history Advocate, and various whiskey
taster, and in demand as a of John Dewar & Sons. Ian websites. He contributed the
teacher and lecturer. For this wrote the chapter on European section.
book, Dave wrote the chapter Scotch blended whisky. Dominic Roskrow
on Japanese whiskey. Glenn Gillen Dominic is consultant editor to
Tom Bruce-Gardyne Australian-born Glenn was Whisky Magazine and edited
Tom is an expert on Scotch dragged into the world of the publication for four years.
malt and has written several whiskey by a former colleague He now runs his own drinks
books on the subject, including when he moved to Edinburgh. consultancy business, and
Scotch Whisky and The Scotch After countless distillery visits writes for titles such as The Malt
Whisky Book. He is a regular and hazy nights enjoying a Advocate and Beers of the World.
contributor to Whisky Magazine, dram or two, a plan was He is business development
Scotland Magazine, and the hatched to bring whiskey director for The Whisky Shop
Sunday Herald. Tom wrote appreciation to the masses retail chain and is president of
the section on Scotland’s through a whiskey-oriented Britain’s first national whisky
distilleries and malt whiskies. social networking site, club. He is also the author of
Ulf Buxrud whiskyd.com. His Need To Know Whiskies, to be
A member of Malt Maniacs contributions to this book published in March 2008. He
(www.maltmaniacs.org) and a are centered on Australasia. wrote the sections on England
Keeper of the Quaich since Peter Mulryan & Wales, and Canada.
1995, Ulf has done much to Peter is the author of three Gavin D. Smith
promote the drink in Sweden books on spirits: The Whiskeys Gavin is the author of 10
through lectures and tastings. of Ireland, Poteen—Irish whiskey-related books, is a
He is a contributor to whiskey Moonshine, and Bushmills— contributing editor to www.
periodicals and is author of 400 years. He has contributed whisky-pages.com, and was
Rare Malts, published in 2006. to numerous publications, founding editor of the drinks
For this book, Ulf contributed including Whisky Magazine, magazine Fine Expressions.
the section on Asian whiskey. and, as a television producer, He is a regular contributor to
Ian Buxton specializes in food and drink Whisky Magazine and Malt
Ian Buxton was elected programs. Peter contributed Advocate, and also conducts
Keeper of the Quaich (1991), the chapter on Irish whiskey. tutored whiskey tastings. For
and is a member of Whisky Hans Offringa this book, Gavin wrote the
Magazine’s “World Whisky With his wife Becky, Hans World of Whiskey and US
Awards” tasting panel. He is conducts presentations in chapters, and the section on
also Director of the World Europe and the US as Scottish grain whisky.
288 whiskey
acknowledgments: images
The Publisher would like to thank the following for their kind The Kobal Collection: (b)
permission to reproduce their photographs:
Matt Edwards: 149 (t)
Picture Key: a-above; b-below/bottom; c-center; l-left; r-right;
t-top; tl-top left; tr-top right; bl-bottom left; br-bottom right;
Mary Evans Picture Library: 47 (t), 117 (t), 130 (t)
blc-bottom left center; brc-bottom right center; clm-center left
middle; crm-center right middle; crb-center right bottom.
Thomas Müller: 259 (t)
Picture credits
Chapter Top Bar Images: The publisher would also like to thank the following for their
18–41 The World of Whisky: Corbis; 45–279 Whisky Nations: assistance with images:
DK Images; 280–288 Index: Alamy
Allied Domecq, A Smith Bowman, Amrut, Bacardi, Balmenach
AKG: 209 (b) Distillery, Barton Brands Ltd, Bakery Hill Distillery, Beam
Global Spirits & Wine, Benriach Distillery, Buffalo Trace, Burn
Alamy Images: 1, 2–3, 10 (c), 12–13 (b), 15 (b), 16–17 (b), 18, Stewart Distillers Ltd, The Brown-Forman Corporation, Berry
20 (cl, clm, crm, cr, crb), 22 (b), 23 (tr, b), 24 (c), 26 (b), 28 (t), Brothers & Rudd Ltd, Bertrand, Campari, Chivas Brothers,
30 (b), 31 (b), 38 (t), 40 (t, b), 41 (t), 42–43 (t), 44, 47 (b), 53 (t), Clear Creek Distillery, Diageo, CL WorldBrands Ltd, Copper
54 (t), 64–65, 72 (b), 74 (t), 76 (b), 77 (t), 79 (t, c, b), 80 (b), Fox Distillery, Cooley Distillery Plc, Compass Box, Des
81 (t), 83 (t, b), 85 (t), 88 (b), 90 (b), 93 (c), 95 (t), 97 (b), 99 (t, c), Menhirs, The Edrington Group, Four Roses Distillery, Fortune
101 (c), 102 (t, c, b), 103 (t), 105 (t, b), 106–7, 108 (b), 109 (b), Brands Inc, Jagatjit, Irish Distillers Ltd, Glenora Distillery,
114–13, 120 (b), 121 (b), 123 (t), 126 (t, b), 127 (t), 130 (b), George Dickel Distillery, Glenmorangie, Gilbeys, Guillon
131 (t, b), 134 (b), 136 (t, c), 138 (b), 139 (b), 140 (t), 141 (c, b), Distillery, Hanyu Distillery (Ichiro Akuto), Heaven Hill
143 (b), 144-5, 146 (b), 148 (b), 149 (b), 155 (b), 156 (t), 157 (b), Distilleries, Highland Park, Highland Distillers Plc, Highwood
158, 160 (b), 163 (t), 174 (t, b), 178, 179 (t), 180 (b), 181 (b), 182, Distillery, Höhler, Hyram Walker & Sons, Lark Distillery, Inver
183 (t), 187 (t), 189 (c), 194 (br), 198 (c), 199 (b), 200 (c), 202–3, House Distillers, Irish Distillers Group, Isle of Arran Distillers,
206 (c), 210 (c, b), 212 (c, b), 213 (b), 215 (c), 216 (b), 218, 219 John Dewar and Sons Ltd, Kirin Brewery Co, Lark Distillery,
(t), 221 (b), 225 (b), 226–7, 228 (b), 231 (t), 234, 235 (t), 237 (b), Mackmyra Distillery, Morrison Bowmore Distillers Ltd,
246–7, 251 (tr), 255 (t), 266, 267 (t), 273 (t), 277 (t) Mitchell & Son Wine Merchants Ltd, Murree, Nant Distillery,
Nikka, The Owl, Pernod Ricard, Piedmont Distillers Inc,
Axiom: 39 (t) Penderyn Distillery, Radico Khaitan, Reiner Mösslein,
Reisetbauer, Richard Joynson, Sazerac Company, Smith’s, The
Cephas: 21 (br), 26 (t), 27 (t, b), 28 (bl, bc), 33 (b), 57, 60 (t), Southern Distilling Company, Southern Distilleries Ltd,
62 (t), 63 (b), 72 (t), 75 (t), 83 (t), 85 (b), 167 (t), 214 (t), 241 (c, b) Spencerfield Spirits, St Georges Distillery, St George Spirits,
Stranahan’s Colorado Whiskey, Suntory, Takara Shuzo &
Corbis: 11, 14 (tl), 42–43 (b), 45 (t), 48 (b), 110 (b), 116 (b), Okura Ltd, Tasmania Distillery, Thai Beverage Public
125 (t), 128–9, 139 (t), 153 (t), 162 (b), 167 (b), 169 (t), 197 (tr), Company Ltd, Tobermory Distillery, United Distillers &
207 (br), 220 (b), 221 (t), 224 (t), 225 (c), 232 (t), 233 (b), 272 Vintners Ltd, United Spirits, Van Winkle Whiskeys, Vallie,
Volker Theurer, Waldviertler Roggenhof, Whisky Castle,
Getty Images: 36 (b), 37 (b), 41 (br), 101 (b), 134 (t), 177 (b), Wolfram Ortner, Whyte and Mackay Ltd, Winchester Cellars,
194 (b), 210 (t), 211 (t), 230 (b), 264 (b) William Grant and Sons, Zürcher.
Hans Offringa: 172 (t), 186 (b), 189 (t, b), 190 (tl, b), All other images © Dorling Kindersley
191 (t, b), 193 (t), 194 (tl), 196 (b), 198 (t, b), 199 (t), 200 (tl), For further information see: www.dkimages.com
201 (t), 212 (t), 213 (tl), 214 (b), 215 (b)

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E YE WITNESS companions

WORLD GUIDE • REGIONS • DISTILLERIES

Produced for Dorling Kindersley by

Published in the United States by

ISBN 978-0-7566-3349-3 Maturation 30

Interest in whiskey has never been greater

Williams established a large-scale THE WHISKY REVOLUTION

US was supplied with good quality

was little left over for

Many people drink whiskey without knowing much about it.

Grain whiskey, only corn is indigenous to

Barley Wheat Corn Rye

that the best whiskey is made using soft

Traditional wooden washbacks are still in use

producing a cleaner, more complex

The Crucial role of Copper

Squat stills, such as these

Column stills consist of two

unmalted grain which

Plain still Lamp-glass still Boil-ball still

The importance European Oak

American White Oak

agent, removing “immature”

The Finishing Touch

on their ends on wooden pallets, up

Scotch Whisky number of different distilleries, and

Tennessee Whiskey Japanese Whiskey

Bourbon Tennessee Rye Corn Canadian Japanese Indian

blending and bottling

A traditional Scotch vats. Whyte & Mackay

comparatively new. For a long time, it

Nosing and tasting

Water served at room probably come from

After an initial nosing, it may pay to whiskey and food

“A compound distilled spirit, being drawn on aromaticks;

Macallan Distillery began to

would be excused malt tax

of Scotch whisky, he decided and now Pernod Ricard,

“the milk burn,” which flows

Balmenach farm. It lay in a Balvenie, which cost Balvenie was originally

on the site, and Glenfarclas

cardhu and The pure malt rumpus

the guard’s van instead.

Mackenzie found the means Most of what comes off

Born in 1839, William Grant The first spirit from Glenfiddich

has a rich malty character,

whisky was made. It hardly

Ricard, who acquired the Glenlossie has worked with

This sense of isolation remains George Smith was no doubt making

gallons (5 million liters) ruined Castle of Rothes,

Until recently the entire Knockdhu’s An-Cnoc

John duff, longmorn’s pioneer

After a solid plentiful supplies of

the MaCallan back story

Situated on the west bank The distillery remained more or

Since 2000, building on its

With plentiful supplies of

being finished by the end