Wine Enthusiast - May 2014

650+
WINES
REVIEWED
D
THE WORLD IN YOUR GLASS
THE
NAPA
ISSUE
W
HIITE W
INES
WHITE
WINES
PAGE
PA
P
AGE
50
5
OFF-THE-GRID
WINERIES
PAGE
PA
AGE
42
THE BEST
PLACES TO
EAT, DRINK
AND STAY IN
THE VALLEY
$5.99 US & CANADA
Winemag.com
THE NEW RAW BAR WINES

PAGE
PA
AGE
69
GREAT SEAFOOD PAIRINGS
PAGE
PA
AGE
62
T
MARKET
COCKTAIL RECIPES
9FARMERS
PAGE
PA
AGE
15
5
MAY 2014
92
POINTS
Please enjoy our wines responsibly. 2014 Black Stallion Estate Winery, Napa, CA 94558, ALC. 14.5% BY VOL.
EDITORS CHOICE
MAY ISSUE 2014
Finding a new favorite wine has never been more exciting.

With over 150 stores staffed with friendly beverage experts, BevMo! is ready to help you nd your new favorite wine,
beer or spirit. So no matter which beverage youre looking for or whatever occasion youre planning Just Add BevMo!
BevMo.com
MAY
FEATURES
42
NAPA OFF THE GRID

BY VIRGINIE BOONE
Discover the hidden gems tucked
away in the valley.
50
NAPAS UNSUNG
HEROES
BY STEVE HEIMOFF
Though often overshadowed
by the regions big reds, Napa
Valleys top white wines
shouldnt be overlooked.
56
MAKING SENSE
OF MONTALCINO
BY KERIN OKEEFE
Understanding the complex
subregions of Montalcino.
62
RETHINKING WINES
AT THE RAW BAR
BY MIKE DESIMONE & JEFF JENSSEN
Your guide on what to drink the next
time you dig into your seafood
smrgsbord.
50
COVER PHOTO: MEG BAGGOTT
2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2014
42
62
22
34
DEPARTMENTS
COLUMNS
OUT & ABOUT
EDITORS LETTER
12
Baja Meets NYC
THE CRUSH
15
18
20
22
24
26
28
30
32
34
Farmers Market Cocktail Club

Wine IQ: Leftover Wine Dilemma
A Label Gets Graffitied
Q&A: Scribes Andrew Mariani
Perfect Spring Pairings
Entertaining: Vacation Buys
Dining Trend: Artisanal Flour
Recipe of the Month
Cocktail of the Month
Destination: Where Bartenders
Drink in New York City
LAST DROP
120 My Favorite Winemaker
Napa Mountain High

BY ADAM STRUM
VIEWPOINT
34
Drinking in Napa
BY JOE CZERWINSKI
BUYING GUIDE
70
88
94
98
100
104
111
Tuscany
Austria
Bordeaux
Spain
Argentina
California
Washington
115
116
118
119
Idaho
New York
Spirits
Beer
32
Inglenook.com
2014 Inglenook. All trademarks used herein are exclusive property of Inglenook.
Heritage
VOLUME 27, NUMBER 4
PUBLISHER & EDITOR Adam M. Strum

VICE PRESIDENT OF PUBLISHING WINE ENTHUSIAST MEDIA Jay Spaleta
EDITORIAL
EXECUTIVE EDITOR Susan Kostrzewa
MANAGING EDITOR Joe Czerwinski
SENIOR EDITOR Mike Dawson
WEB EDITOR/PRODUCER Marina Vataj
ASSISTANT EDITOR Joseph Hernandez
EUROPEAN EDITOR Roger Voss
ITALIAN EDITOR Kerin OKeefe
CONTRIBUTING EDITORS, WINE Michael Schachner, Paul Gregutt, Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon, Matt Kettmann, Sean Sullivan,
Anna Lee C. Iijima, Anne Krebiehl
CONTRIBUTING EDITOR, FOOD Alexis Korman
CONTRIBUTING EDITORS, LIFESTYLE & ENTERTAINING Mike DeSimone and Jeff Jenssen
SPIRITS EDITOR Kara Newman
CREATIVE
CREATIVE DIRECTOR Marco Turelli
ART DIRECTOR Julia Lea
DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY Megan Baggott
DIRECTOR OF PRINT PRODUCTION Barbara Gianisis
TASTING
TASTING DIRECTOR Lauren Buzzeo
ASSISTANT TASTING DIRECTOR Molly Sowers
TASTING COORDINATOR Alexander Peartree
ASSISTANT TASTING COORDINATOR Raven Blake
EDITORIAL OFFICES 333 North Bedford Road, Mt. Kisco, NY 10549
TEL: 914.345.9463 FAX: 914.218.9186 [email protected]
CALIFORNIA Steve Heimoff [email protected]
Virginie Boone [email protected]
EUROPE Roger Voss TEL/FAX: +33 562 09 50 76 [email protected]
ITALY Kerin OKeefe TEL: +41 91 930.0080 [email protected]
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VP PUBLISHING Jay Spaleta 333 North Bedford Road, Mt. Kisco, NY TEL: 914.218.9262 FAX: 866.887.0943
[email protected]
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Wine Enthusiast (ISSN 1078.3318) is published monthly with one special issue, a total of 13 times per year. Subscriptions are $34.95
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editorsletter
NAPA MOUNTAIN HIGH
Head to the hills to discover some of this famous regions best bottles.
YOULL FIND AMAZING

TA S T I N G R O O M S
A N D G E M S PA C K E D
I N TO N O O KS A N D
CRANNIESYOUVE
L I K E LY N E V E R
E X P LO R E D.
42, Contributing Editor Virginie Boone

reveals the best experience-driven places
in which to taste, sup and sleep throughout
the valley. Steve Heimoff s article on page
50 outlines why Napa should be just as
famed for its eclectic whites as it is for its
robust reds.
Similarly, our wine-pairing guide to that
warm-weather staple, the raw bar, offers
unique approaches to the fresh seafood
that so defines the season. Check out the
mouthwatering combinations chosen by
Lifestyle and Entertaining Editors Mike
DeSimone and Jeff Jenssen on page 62.
Also in this issue, Italian Editor
Kerin OKeefe tackles the hot debate
over subzones in Montalcino, home to
Italys famed Brunello (page 56). Does
understanding subzones help you choose
a better bottle? OKeefe talks to producers
on both sides of the fence about why (or
why not) knowing the GPS coordinates of
the vineyard is vital.
Cheers!
ADAM STRUM
EDITOR & PUBLISHER
COMING NEXT MONTH

CHAMPAGNE FOR ALL
Summers celebratory
occasions call for the best
bubbly you can afford. Get
our picks in each price tier.
COMPLETE GUIDE TO CHILI

These wine-friendly recipes
will change the way you see
this perennial favorite. Plus, the
right way to make and serve it.
THE MUSIC ISSUE

Many popular musicians
are seriously into wine.
Learn all about them and
their vinous obsessions.
RICHARD FREEDA , MONICA STEVENSON
inding the road less traveled is a

passion of mine, and in my personal
and professional travels, I seek out
experiences that are fresh and surprising.
Thats not to say I always travel
to unknown destinations. There are
discoveries to be made in tried-and-true
places, too.
Napa, an obvious draw for me, is a
perfect example. While I love iconic Napa
experiences like tasting along the Silverado
Trail, lunching on the patio at Auberge
du Soleil, and hot-air ballooning over the
vineyards, heading off the path and up the
mountain roads of Napa is how I get my offthe-grid fix.
Whether you climb to the heights of
Mount Veeder or venture up roads in the
Howell Mountain, Diamond Mountain,
Spring Mountain or Coombsville AVAs,
youll find amazing tasting rooms and
gems packed into nooks and crannies
youve likely never explored.
CADE, Lakoya, Constant, Kuleto Estate
these are just a few of the incredible
producers offering the kind of intense fruit
for which the mountains of Napa have
become known.
Rediscovering Napa is the focus of two
features in this months issue. On page
winemag.com
CLICK. DISCOVER. CONNECT.
LEFTOVER WINE RECIPES
REWINED
HASHTAGWEdrink
Waste not! If youve popped one too

many bottles at your last bash and
youre confronted with leftover wine
thats gone flatweve got just the recipes for
you. We tapped top chefs and beverage pros
for tips on how to put that precious grape juice
to good use. winemag.com/leftoverwine
Spottswoode
In honor of our feature about

Napas top white wines (page 50),
@WineEnthusiast tweeted at our
editors: What Napa whites did
you enjoy while on your last trip to
California?
Truchard 2012 Roussanne

@suskostrzewa
SUSAN KOSTRZEWA,
EXECUTIVE EDITOR
I always love Spottswoode SB

@vboone
VIRGINIE BOONE,
CONTRIBUTING EDITOR, CALIFORNIA
One of my favorite #PNV14 lots

was a barrel-fermented SB from
The onions in this decadent

jam, created by chef Alex
Guarnaschelli, are caramelized
in red wine, then sauted with
a dash of honey and vinegar.
@lailvineyards
@JoeCz
JOE CZERWINSKI,
MANAGING EDITOR
TACOS THAT
TANTALIZE
Tacos are the ultimate Cinco de
Mayo food. In celebration of the
upcoming Mexican fiesta, we
asked our Instagram followers
to post a photo of their go-to
#TacoPairings. Here are some
of our favorite mouthwatering
snapshots.
@hi_spots
@mattiej
@simonshinyo
out&about
EMILY DRYDEN
BAJA MEETS NYC OPENING PARTY,

AT HOTEL AMERICANO
To celebrate the exciting wines coming
out of Mexico, Wine Enthusiast and
The Latin Kitchen hosted winemakers
from Valle de Guadalupe for a threeday series. The events included
tastings, dinners and parties and
helped further expose this up-andcoming New World region to
New York City and the world.
Wines made passionately

for your table.
California vintner Jerry Lohr and the
extended J. Lohr family invite you to celebrate
the acclaimed tastes of Monterey and Paso Robles,
captured from the vineyard to your table,
in every glass of J. Lohr Estates wine.
2014 J. Lohr Vineyards & Wines, San Jose, CA
ourcrush
THIS MONTH
THE FARMERS MARKET

COCKTAIL CLUB
Whether on your plate or in your punch
bowl, nothing can top the avors of
freshly plucked produce. So when
picking over the colorful bounty at
your weekend greenmarket, dont just
think midweek mealsconsider what
may mix well with a 12-year-old
whiskey, or what to infuse in vodka or
gin. Weve tapped some of the best
minds in mixology to help inspire you
to think drink when at the stands.
Welcome to the Farmers Market
Cocktail Club.
WINEMAG.COM | 15
TIME TO DRINK
YOUR VEGETABLES
Here are nine delicious, easy-to-make
greenmarket cocktail recipes.
RADISH Miso Mule
(BAR CONGRESS, AUSTIN, TX)
1 oz Yamazaki Whisky
1 red radish, cut into
chunks
1 tsp light miso paste
oz honey syrup
3 oz San Pellegrino
For syrup, combine equal

parts honey and hot water,
let cool. For the drink,
shake all but the soda,
strain over fresh ice. Top
with soda and radish.
Limonata soda
CUCUMBERS Queens Cup

(ROUGE TOMATE, NEW YORK CITY)
Pinch of mint
2 oz Pimms
1 oz cucumber pure
1 oz lemonade
oz lemon juice
Muddle all but the soda,

shake with ice, and strain
into glass with fresh ice.
Top with soda, cucumber
slice and mint sprig
2 oz soda water
LAVENDER The Lavender

(HILLTOP KITCHEN, TACOMA, WA)
1 sprig lavender
oz simple syrup
1 oz vodka
oz lemon juice, fresh
oz coconut cream
Muddle lavender and

syrup, then shake
everything with ice.
Strain, garnish with
lemon.
LETTUCE Gordons Healthy Lunch

(FORAGERS CITY TABLE, NEW YORK CITY)
2 oz Dorothy Parker Gin
oz mix of arugula and
Boston lettuce
oz lime juice
oz simple syrup
Juice lettuce. Shake

Strain over fresh ice.
PEAS Awww Snap

(ROAST, DETROIT)
1 oz sugar snap
pea-infused gin
oz lemon juice, fresh
oz simple syrup
oz Dolin Blanc Vermouth
2 dashes celery bitters
For the infused gin,

combine 1 cup of sugar
snap peas and 3 cups of gin.
Refrigerate for two days and
strain. For the drink, shake
everything with ice. Strain
over fresh ice.
CILANTRO Mango En Fuego Paloma

(BACKSTREET CAF, HOUSTON)
1 oz mezcal
oz lime juice
Pinch of chile powder
1 tsp cilantro, roughly
chopped
Stir everything but the

soda in a collins glass. Add
soda and ice. Pour into a
shaker then back into the
glass. Garnish with lime.
6 oz mango soda
BEETS Action Bronson

(POURING RIBBONS, NEW YORK CITY)
1 oz Irish Whiskey
oz Plum Brandy
oz beet juice
Shake everything with

ice. Pour over fresh ice.
Garnish with orange peel.
oz lime juice
oz grapefruit juice
oz simple syrup
CELERY Celery Bubbly Cocktail

(FORK RESTAURANT, PHILADELPHIA)
oz Cynar
oz Domaine de Canton
ginger liqueur
oz white verjus
1 oz celery water
Pure a celery stalk

and strain through
cheesecloth. Stir
Garnish with celery frond.
TOMATO & ROSEMARY Breakfast for Dinner

(THE BOILER ROOM, CHICAGO)
2 oz tomato water
1 sprig rosemary
1 oz aquavit
For the tomato water,

chop tomatoes and press
through cheesecloth.
For the drink, muddle
everything, shake with
ice, strain. Top with a
cucumber slice and pinch
of smoked salt.
WINEMAG.COM | 17
MONICA STEVENSON; STYLING: LINDEN ELSTRAN
3 oz Brut sparkling wine
thecrush
WINE IQ
SOLVING THE LEFTOVER

WINE DILEMMA
To help you with this confounding problem, we polled our editors
and other wine pros on the best ways to preserve the last few
glasses of your open bottle.
RECORK IT RIGHT
The first rule of preserving your wine is to replace the cork
correctly. While the clean side may seem easier to fit in the
bottle, resist. The stained side has already been exposed to the
wine, and it tasted fine. That clean side may not be so clean,
and it can taint what youre planning to drink in a day or two.
USE HALF BOTTLES

Air flattens your wine, lessening flavors and aromas. To minimize air exposure, use a funnel to pour the remaining vino into
a screw-cap half bottle. Even if theres a little air at the top, its
far less than in a regular bottle.
REFRIGERATE IT
Its amazing how often people will keep leftover wine on the
counter after theyve recorked it. You wouldnt do that with
food, so dont with wine. The cool temp cant stop exposed
wine from breaking down, but it can slow the process significantly.
DONT OPEN IT
If popping high-end bottles is what you call Wednesday (or
youre itching to taste those gems in your cellar), it may be
time for a Coravin. This device, which looks much like a Rabbit opener, pierces the cork with a needle and tops the bottle
with argon gas. Pour what you want, remove the needle and
the cork will seal naturally. Many restaurants use it to sell topshelf wines by the glass. $299, wineenthusiast.com
FINISH IT
Look, there are roughly five glasses of wine in a regular
750-ml bottle. If you and yours have two glasses each and split
that last glassall while eating a decent-sized dinnerits not
bad. In fact, according to recent studies, 13 glasses a day may
improve your heart health. Mike Dawson
DRINK ITALIAN
The California Way.
www.ferrari-carano.com
Ferrari-Carano Vineyards & Winery
Healdsburg, CA 800.831.0381
thecrush
WINE TREND
GRAPE
EXPECTATIONS
The new generation of young
winemakers and drinkers
are bent on making the
wine world not only more
accessible and more fun,
but actually cooland this
bottle featuring the work
of legendary graffiti artist
Cope2 is a colorful sign
of this welcome shift. In
collaboration with 67Wine
store in New York City,
Bronx-born Cope2 created
a work for this limited
bottling of Bodegas Luzns
2009 La Caldera, a blend
of Tempranillo, Cabernet
Sauvignon and Monastrell
from Jumilla in Spain.
Whether you like the juice
or not, the label reminds us
were trending toward a less
stuffy era in wine.
thecrush
Q+ A
SCRIBE WINERYS ANDREW MARIANI

Since opening in 2009, the owners and vintners Andrew and Adam Marianiand their stylish, photoready wine feastshave been featured in GQ, Paper and countless design magazines and blogs. But
whats caught the eye of California producers isnt the buzz, its that Scribe is part of a growing revolution
of young winemakers who are sharing their wine in intimate settings (no giant tasting rooms, please) and
pulling off one of the hardest feats in wine: Creating leagues of loyal fans.
THE BROTHERS SCRIBE

Andrew, left, with his brother,
and co-vintner Adam.
Your relaxed hillside tastings are so

popular. What made you decide to
buck the tasting room trend?
We actually werent reactionary at
all. We were inspired by those unique
experiences weve had on more rustic
wineries in California and Europe.
You walk up to these little wineries,
hang with the winemaker, nothing
formal, and really feel connected to
the place. Coming from a California
farming background, we thought
maybe we can just strip all the BS
away, and not have anything fancy
and just be a farm and be honest and

authentic about what were doing
here and share that. The reality of
farmingthe work, the landis what
my brother and I always thought was
so cool, so we stay true to that.
Yeah, and farms usually dont have
grand tasting rooms.
Its cool if you want to go to a tasting
room barI love going to bars. Its
just not for us here. Some do it so
amazingly well, but yeah in general
we think its hard to appreciate
wines real story in that kind of
setting. If you take away the faux
chateau, the fancy brochure and big
tasting rooms and whatever romance
thats trying to sell, youre left with
the real, honest story: How this wine
came to be. For me, and a lot of folks,
thats the real romance of wine.
Have people tried to bite your style
or recreate what you guys are doing?
We definitely have people from other,
larger wineries come here and ask
questions, which we love. First, its
such a big compliment because were
hardly the first winery trying to stay
true to being a farm first. Second, if
more and more California wineries
are offering cool, unique experiences,
we think its great. Theres a good
conversation happening right now
in California about winemaking style
and how wine is shared with people.
I think how its shared is shifting,
and we feel lucky and so honored to
even be a part of that conversation.
Mike Dawson
ALLEN ZEPEDA
Youve said before how some

producers share wine is often out
of context with how a lot of people
want to experience it.
In my opinion, the best way to
experience wine is sitting down
with somebody and eating, drinking
and talking. Thats why wine is so
amazingit brings people to the
table, and is one of the few ways
people relate to the natural world.
Man, that sounds super cheese ball,
but its the truth, and really what its
all about. Were actually just doing
what wed want if we walked up to
a winery. And that means sitting
and connecting and having fun with
people at a simple table under an oak
tree, with a few bottles of wine, a
little plate of food and some music.
I mean, were so lucky to live and
work on this amazing farm. We just
try to have a good time, make good
decisions and make quality stuff. I
think if youre doing that, people are
going to want to be a part of it.
thecrush
THE WINE LIFE
SPRING VIN
Our editors handpicked the perfect wines to help you mark these glorious rites of the season.
PLANTING YOUR GARDEN

Donkey & Goat 2012 Chardonnay (Anderson Valley), $35
Unearth this refreshingly light Chardonnaywith its
crisp layers of green apple and lemon, and intriguing
hints of Asian spiceswhich pairs well with the rich
scent of overturned soil. So, be sure to sip it while still
in your muddy gear, or better yet, downwind from
your garden.
THAT FIRST BIG TROUT

OF THE YEAR
Dog Point 2010 Chardonnay (Marlborough), $38
The spring runoff made wading uncomfortably cold,
but you stuck it out, and fooled that sh with a No. 12
stonefly emerger. Celebrate by dusting the fillets in
cornmeal, then saut and nish with pat of brown butter.
This wine echoes the nuttiness and the acid balances
the butter.
OPENING YOUR SUMMER HOUSE

Pieropan 2011 La Rocca (Soave Classico), $30
Intense but rened, this Soave boasts layers of tropicalfruit avors, alongside almond and light spice. These fruit
avors and the underlying mineral notes will harmonize
well as the dust scent and stale air are at last swept away
by the fresh-air breezes from your newly-open windows.
FIRST ALFRESCO BRUNCH

Robert Weil 2012 Tradition Riesling (Rheingau), $20
There may be no better match for sunrays and spring's
awakening than an ultra-clean-cut, citrus-scented
Rheingau Riesling. Every sip refreshes, and with its
rounded fruitiness this number plays well with all your
brunch staples. Bonus: It's low in alcohol, so a second
bottle may be in order.
MEMORIAL DAY COOKOUT

Sweet and spicy red-fruit aromas and leather come
to play in this big-boned, ripe Syrah. Flavors of black
fruits, toast, coconut and chocolate announce
plenty of oak, while the rich, persistent nish is just bright
enough to cut through that prized piece of charred Angus.
24
| WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2014
MONICA STEVENSON
Koyle 2009 Royale Syrah (Colchagua Valley), $26
This is not
just a Prosecco.
Its Mionetto.
C A M PA I G N F I N A N C E D
AS PER THE
C O U N C I L R E G U L AT I O N
(EC) NO. 1234/07
thecrush
ENTERTAINING
ENDLESS VACATION
Your humblebrag shots on Instagram dont tell the whole story. To truly share your getaway
glow with friends, bring home a curated slice of hosting heaven. Skip the duty-free shop and
scout out more intimate entertaining-friendly conversation pieces like these.
FRANCE > French Linens
THE CARIBBEAN > Scotch

Bonnet Pepper Sauce
Those bright blue and sunower yellow
Each island has its own special
tablecloths of Provence will always
hot sauce, but look for those
be classic, but if your tastes are more
made with Scotch bonnets,
modern, seek out Ct Bastide, a
among the hottest peppers on the
purveyor of high-end home goods. With
planet. Stir some into your jerk rub
stores in Paris and Aix-en-Provence,
and chutney for an island-style
it boasts French linens in soft breezy
barbecue, or add a dash or two
colors that will remind you of days
into your bloody mary and treat
lounging on the beach looking out on
your friends to tropical brunch. A
the Mediterranean, or in the shade of an
few drops work well with oysters,
olive tree soaking in the lavender elds.
and with a little mayo, it's great for

topping crab cakes or pork sliders.
TURKEY > Tea Trays

In the Grand Bazaar and restaurants of Istanbul,
waiters bearing long-handled brass tea trays
whizz by, never spilling a single drop. Great for
bringing drinks to the yard or terrace, these
hardy trays wont tip even as you navigate stairs.
Theyre also beautiful enough to hang on the
wall or use as a table centerpiece.
MEXICO > Molcajete

Carved from a single piece of volcanic rock, a
molcajeteoriginally used by the Aztecs to
SPAIN > Pimentn
grind cornis an indispensible tool for mashing
Small tins of pimentn, or paprika, will
guacamole. The rough surface releases the
add Iberian air to your next dinner party.
avors of tomato, onion, cilantro and chilies
Tins marked dolce are sweet paprika;
before you add the avocado. Preparing
picante indicates heat. Spanish paprika
tableside is a fun way to showcase your
lends its rich red-orange color and smoky
culinary skills. Serve them alongside
flavors to paella, patatas bravas and
zesty white wine from producers like
sizzling shrimp with garlic and olive oil.
Casa de Piedra, Paralelo or Monte Xanic
The small, brightly colored cans are also
from Mexicos Valle de Guadalupe in Baja
great keepsakes. Look for the tins from

Santo Domingo or El Colorin.
California.
Mike DeSimone & Jeff Jenssen
ELEGANCE
BRILLIANTLY
CAPTURED.
Clos Du Vals estate-grown Stags Leap District
Cabernet Sauvignon brilliantly captures our hallmark
finesse, elegance, and complexity. It represents
over 40 years of distinctive, terroir-driven
winemaking in a single bottle.
2014 Clos Du Val, Napa, California
thecrush
DINING TREND
FLOUR POWER
The next ingredient to get the artisanal treatment in cutting-edge
kitchens: baking our. Whether this makes your mouth water or your
eyes roll, heres your proverbial Cliffs Notes on this new-age millers tale.
hen Jared Van Camp, the owner and

executive chef of Nellcte Chicago,
walked away from the 2009 Slow Food
conference in Turin, Italy, he had an
ambitious goal: to make the most authentic pizza
stateside. To do that, he knew store-bought flour
wouldnt cut it. I was intrigued by the fact that in
Italy, the flour used in restaurants was local to them,
he says. Pizzerias in America were using that same
flour, but the amount of miles and the carbon
footprint inherent in that process didnt make sense
to me. He searched locally, but came up short.
Searching for Superfine

Finely ground double-zero flour is the key to proper
pizza, so Van Camp had a North Carolina company
build a custom flour mill with a pneumatic sifter
that could yield those superfine results. In his
restaurants basement, Van Camp uses this stone
contraption daily to transform heritage wheat
sourced from regional farmers into fresh batches of
high-quality flour. In addition to his pizza crust, the
flour also makes its way into house-baked baguettes,
brioche and focaccia, and all the pastas.
Grain Solos
Cooking requires consistency, one of the key benefits
when you reach for a 5-pound sack of Gold Medal.
Yet hand-milling (after a little practice) provides
the same benefit, but with flavors that are fresh,
more nuanced and truly original. Bob Klein, owner
of Oliveto, in Oakland, feels so strongly about the
cooking benefits of small-batch flour that he formed
his own small milling collective, called Community
Grains, in 2007. The mill churns out whole-grain
pastas and stone-milled flour for his and a handful
of other restaurants. There is so little information
about wheat out there: how was it farmed, who milled
it, what was the temperature of the wheel, Klein
28
| WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2014
says. With the flour you buy in the supermarket, or

from a distributor, all you know is that the sack will
behave like the last one.
The Terroir of Wheat

Flour milling is also gaining traction for its
connection to the past, says Cathy Whims, chef/
owner of Nostrana in Portland, Oregon. Getting
closer to the source ties into the idea of slow food
and finding a real-life connection to our history, she
says. I was in Calabria recently, and was reminded
that we always consider and grasp the idea of wine
terroir, but not food terroir, which is what every
family instills up there. They know: where it grows
is hugely important to how it will taste
Grist Gripes
At Taquitoria, a gourmet taquito shrine on New
Yorks Lower East Side, partner Brad Holtzman takes
a more cynical view of these artisanal inclinations,
comparing them to Hollywoods oversaturated film
industry. Its rare to see something on the big screen
that is essentially a new concept, he says. Thats
why filmmakers are happy to take a successful
film, and remake it with their spin. Farm-to-table
re s t a u ra n t s ,
burger joints
W E A LW AY S
and modernist
CONSIDER WINES
concepts have
TERROIR, BUT
been opening
and closing N E V E R T H E T E R R O I R
OF FOOD.
for decades.
Still, he admits
these locavore leanings wont disappear anytime
soon. Like movie studios, restaurateurs are taking
a successful product like flour and are improving
itor at least trying to, Holtzman says. And if the
market supports it, I guess dont knock the hustle.
Alia Akkam
IN HOUSE
RESTAURANTS WHERE
NEXT-LEVEL ARTISANAL
INGREDIENTS ARE BEING BORN
+ NOMA, COPENHAGEN
The Ingredient: Spices made

from woodruff and seaweed
+ GREY PLUME, OMAHA
The Ingredient: Buttermilk cheese

+ BLUE BOTTLE COFFEE CO.,
SAN FRANCISCO
The Ingredient: Sea salt made

from San Francisco Bay water
thecrush
RECIPE OF THE MONTH
GREEN SYMPHONY
Mixed with fennel flowers and mustard greens, this
vert-hued fava bean salad from Chef Roberto Ivan from
Piccolo Venice in Venice Beach, California, strikes the
perfect harmony between sweet, bitter and earthy.
FAVA BEAN SALAD

WITH CHAMPAGNE
VINAIGRETTE
8 ounces fresh fava beans
1
bunch fennel flowers
bunch mustard greens
Pinch of salt and pepper

1
tablespoon Dijon
mustard
2 teaspoons wild flower

honey
6 tablespoons Champagne
vinegar
4 tablespoons olive oil
Clean and shell the fava

beans. Place in a pot over
high heat and boil for 35
minutes. Drain the beans and
place into an ice bath. Allow
to cool, then drain. Set aside.
Rinse the fennel flowers, then
toss together the fava beans,
fennel flowers and mustard
greens in a large bowl. Season
with salt and pepper.
To make the dressing,
mix together Dijon mustard,
honey and Champagne
vinegar. Slowly pour in the
olive oil while whisking until
well combined. Pour over the
salad and toss well. Finish
with Pecorino cheese.
Serves 2.
Alexis Korman
THE POUR
Pietro Biondi, sommelier at Piccolo
Venice, recommends Ermes Paveses
2011 Blanc de Morgex et de la Salle
from Italys Valle dAosta. The palate is
fruity with a pleasant, fresh finish, says
Biondi. Its excellent for an apritif and
matches well with this salad.
MONICA STEVENSON; STYLING: LINDEN ELSTRAN
2 ounces Pecorino cheese,

shredded
thecrush
COCKTAIL OF THE MONTH
STRANGE
BREW
When we heard Matthew
Biancaniello, bartender at
Pot Lobby Bar in Los Angeles,
was slinging a drink with
hops-infused vodka and, um,
carrot juice, we rolled our eyes.
Then we sipped it. Savory
yet subtly sweet, the mix of
veggie juice, acidic lime and
earthy hops creates a flavor
that literally tastes the way
a spring vegetable garden
smells. Look out bloody mary,
theres a new brunch drink
on the menu.
THE HOPS COCKTAIL

2
ounces Anchor Distilling

Hophead Hop Vodka
ounces fresh carrot juice
ounce fresh lime juice
ounce agave syrup
Pinch of sea salt, for garnish
In a cocktail shaker, combine all

the ingredients with ice, except
salt. Shake vigorously, and strain
into a chilled coupe glass. Garnish
with a pinch of sea salt on top.
ABOUT THE BAR

Part of Roy Chois Pot restaurant inside The Line
Hotel, Pot Lobby Bar is a must-visit for any cocktail acionado. Be prepared to have your palate
challenged well beyond mere carrot juice, with
drinks infused with sea-urchin roe and even a
MEG BAGGOTT; CARRIE SHALTZ
Soju-kimchi mash-up.
Limited Production
The Great American Whiskey

www.michters.com
MICHTERS DISTILLERY LLC LOUISVILLE, KENTUCKY
thecrush
DESTINATION
WHERE BARTENDERS
GO TO DRINK IN NYC
To help you navigate beyond the blogs, guidebooks and Yelp,

we asked mixology master Naren Youngbeverage director at
Empelln, whos also helmed bars at Saxon + Parole, The Dutch
and The Dailyto share where he and his brethren like to go when
off-duty. Heres his insiders guide to boozing in the Big Apple.
Wine
The Daily
Dutch Kills
Ten Bells
If you blink, you might easily pass by tiny

Ten Bells wine bar. With an ever-rotating
chalkboard of wines, ask for what they have
off-menu and youll be treated to a pour thats
fun and often unusual. One of five in the city,
Terroir in the East Village is the brainchild
of local wine legend Paul Grieco, whose love
for Riesling is unmatched in Gotham. Let the
super-learned staff be your guide. Rooted in
making wine accessible to all, Corkbuzz is
part wine bar, part wine school. Come after
10 pm for half-price bottles of Champagne
and youll likely overhear the citys top
sommeliers talking shop and dissecting each
sip. While it should be on your list of places
to eat, Maialino, in the Gramercy Park Hotel,
has a treasure trove of Italian wine at its
bar. Check out sommelier Jeffrey Kelloggs
occasional by-the-glass verticals.
Cocktails (Manhattan)
Attaboy
PDT (Please Dont Tell) has garnered as much

attention for its secret phone-booth entrance
as for its cocktails. The order: the Bentons
Old Fashioned, made with bacon fat. Yes,
bacon fat. What was once Milk & Honey
the bar that started the whole neo-speakeasy
craze in 2000is now Attaboy, which boasts
one of the best drinks in the city: bartender
Sam Rosss Scotch-based Penicillin. The
Dead Rabbit is the most buzzed-about bar
on the planet right now among pro drink
slingers. The must-have: Combatant. Even
the citys most hardened cocktail nerds cant
get bored with The Daily, my alma mater,
since the entire menu changes, as the name
implies, daily.
The Dead Rabbit
MUST-TRYS
7B
Attaboy
Basik
Clover Club
Corkbuzz
Daddy O's
Dead Rabbit
Dutch Kills
Long Island Bar
Maialino
Maison Premiere
Mother's Ruin
Old Town
Ten Bells
Terroir
The Daily
Maison Premiere
7B
7B
MELISSA HORN; ISAAC ROSENTHAL; PETER SYLVESTER; ELLEN SILVERMAN
Cocktails (Brooklyn & Queens)

Julie ReinerNYCs reigning mixology
mavenforecasted Brooklyns
thirst for serious cocktails when
she opened Clover Club in Carroll
Gardens in 2008. At Sunday brunch,
try the bacon sampler and any of her
cobblers. Just down the street, Long
Island Bar, owned by writer and
veteran bartender Toby Cecchini, is
a simple, no-nonsense affair with
killer Boulevardier cocktails. Some of
the freshest oysters in New York are
at Maison Premiere, where at happy
hour, you can devour bivalves for $1
a pop. The Carondelet cocktail, with
a tiny pinch of salt, is the perfect foil.
Drink No. 2: any Julep on the menu.
Basik, in Williamsburg, is a modest
bar catering to locals and barkeeps
who enjoy the simple pleasure of a
well-made classic, like the negroni.
Tip: Theres a hidden courtyard out
back. Dutch Kills, in Long Island City
(only a 15-minute subway ride from
Midtown), is one of the darlings of
the bartender world. Its technically
in Queens, which scares off the snobs,
leaving a crowd of locals and cocktail
geeks. Bartenders make their own
block ice and ice-pick it for each drink.
Beer, etc.
Mothers Ruin has become the
bartenders post-shift hang, since
its open until 4 am and serves grub
until last call. Try the clam juice-
free Micheladas. 7B is one of the last

authentic dives in New York. At the
horseshoe-shaped bar, you get cheap
beer, shots and a surly staff. Grab a
P.H.O. Real sandwich from nearby
bodega Sunny & Annies and bring it
in. Its the only food youll get here.
Old Town has been open since 1892,
so theyre clearly doing something
right. Any visit should include a shot of
Old Granddad, a Guinness (one of the
purest in the city) and its lauded bacon
cheeseburgerin that order. Brave
Daddy Os cranked-up-to-11 music
and youll be rewarded with a great
beer list and one of the best American
whiskey menus in town. You wont
see them on the menu, but order the
cheese-and-jalapeo tater tots.
Old Town
Maialino
WINEMAG.COM | 35
Special
Specia
cial P
Promotion
r om
m o tion
on
GRARD BERTRAND
South
of
Frances
Leading
Man
highly successful winemaker and international

businessman, Grard
Bertrand has an athletic build and bearing. Tall,
with a mane of unruly hair, a serious demeanor
and piercing eyes, he cuts an imposing gure, but
ask him about his southern French roots and his
natural warmth shines through: I was born and
raised here in Languedoc, so the Mediterranean
way of life is deep in my soul, it translates into all
the wines I make, he responds. The range of wines
is as impressive as its creator, spanning varietals,
blends, fortied, sparkling, organic and sultefree wines from across the vast and varied region of
Languedoc-Roussillon.
Grard was given his first taste of grapeharvesting aged 10 by his father Georges at
the family estate of Domaine de Villemajou, in
Boutenac. Here, surrounded by rocky, sun-baked
scrubland dotted with wild rosemary and thyme,
father and son shared their passion for wine for
over fteen years. The unique taste of aged wines
made from hundred-year old Carignan, Syrah and
Grenache vines is something I will never forget,
muses Grard.
On his fathers death, Grard took over and
continued the work of enhancing the quality
and expressing the character of the 140 hectares
(345 acres) and their ancient Carignan vines
a traditional Mediterranean variety that has
found grace once again in the production of top
Languedoc wines.
Special Promotion
Chateau lHospitalet
LHospitalitas
Ingrid, Emma, Grard and

Mathias Bertrand
Cigalus
Larzac area. Along with Villemajou and Domaine

de la Soujeole in the Malepre area, these eight
estates now comprise the heart of Grard Bertrands
winemaking operation, although he is quick to
point out that what were doing here is more than
running a wine business, its a way of life.
Indeed, it is the love of this laid-back, joyful

Mediterranean lifestyle (shared with his wife
Ingrid and two teenage children) that motivates
this unofcial ambassador of the south of France
wines. Were fortunate to live 90 minutes from
Pyrenean ski resorts and only ve minutes from
GRARD BERTRAND ESTATES TOP WINES
A gifted sportsman, in his early adult years

Grard played rugby at international professional
level, reaching the peak of his career in 1993 as
captain of the famous and successful Stade Franais
team in Paris. Although his stadium days are over,
Grard retains the drive and ambition of a top-level
player, and no doubt it is this desire for excellence
which continues to guide the Grard Bertrand
company he founded in 1992.
Motivated by his visionary understanding of
Languedocs potential, over the following decade
he purchased selected estates the regions very best
wine-making areas: Domaine de Cigalus in Bizanet,
Chteau Laville Bertrou in La Livinire, and in
2002, La Clapes Domaine de lHospitalet, where
he created a head ofce and an outstanding wine
tourism destination that attracts 200,000 visitors
from around the world annually.
Recent years have seen the acquisition of
Domaine de lAigle (Limoux), Chteau Aigues
Vives (Corbires-Boutenac), and Chteau La
Sauvageonne in the highly-prized Terrasses du
Special Promotion
golden, sandy beaches, smiles Grard, a keen chef

and self-confessed BBQ ace who enjoys preparing
fresh, locally-caught sh (sea bass and rock lobster
are among his favorites).
WINE TOURISM AND CHTEAU LHOSPITALET

Kool & The Gang
WINES THAT REVEAL

THEIR TERROIR
If Grard Bertrand wines are crafted to bring out
the specic characteristics of each vineyard area
and reect Languedocs diversity, they also share a
common identity: with their balance and elegance,
they are an authentic expression of the south of
France and speak of the outstanding quality of the
sun-kissed soils which gave them birth. These wines
aim to meet and exceed the expectations of wine
lovers worldwide.
Chardonnay, Syrah, Merlot, Pinot each
varietal wine gives a sensitive and true experience of
the soil they grow in. The Terroir and Grand Terroir
appellation wines, from specic appellation areas
offer complexity and the imprint of terroir, that
esoteric combination of vineyard characteristics,
soil, climate and environment. The estates and
single vineyards wines like Le Viala, La Forge and
lHospitalitas are an illustration of Languedocs
excellence, and the natural fortied and sparkling
wines complement this exciting range of styles that
offers wines to suit every palate and occasion.
I love wines with complexity and minerality,
and the ability to age; wines with a message that
really speak of their origins, says Grard, whose
own creativity was partly inspired by several visits
to Domaine de la Romane Conti and tastings
with owner Aubert de Villaine: wine has this
unique ability to help us understand culture and
civilization, he enthuses.
When hes not in the vineyard or working on
the blending of his wines, Grard Bertrand travels
the world to promote his wines. He spends eight
weeks every year in the US. where his wines are
available nationwide.
n
It was during his
rst visit to Napa in 1988 that he saw how
wine touris
tourism was celebrated US-style,
Ross
R
Hap
Happily,
in Languedoc we
have ideal conditions for
growing the Syrah, Grenache,
grow
Cinsault with which we make
Cins
wonderful ross, comments
won
Grard, who is particularly
Gra
proud of his crystal-clear Gris
prou
Blanc (an original blend of
Blan
Grenache Gris and Noir with
Gren
a sh
shimmering, ultra pale pink
hue), At the end of a balmy
hue)
summers day, a glass of chilled
sum
ros is perfect as an apritif,
or w
with oysters and shellsh,
sushi or Asian foodits part of
sush
our way of life here. Chteau
La S
Sauvageonnes mineral ros
is ve
very disctinctive, crafted
from Grenache, Cinsault and
Syrah.
Syra
en minutes from the

ancient Roman city of
Narbonne, Chteau
lHospitalet is a 82 hectares
vineyard surrounded by 1000
hectares of pine woods and
rocky scrubland dotted with
wild herbs; from its loftier
vineyards visitors can enjoy
breathtaking views of the
azure-blue Mediterranean sea.
Although the origins of
the site go back to the 6th
century, the hotel, restaurant
and tasting room offer the
ultimate in modern day

comfort, ensuring unforgettable memories for those
fortunate enough to sojourn
here. Chteau lHospitalet
showcases the very best of
the Mediterranean lifestyle:
fresh, local, seasonal ne food
paired with carefully-crafted
Grard Bertrand wines. With
their views across swathes of
vines and a Mediterranean
garden, the generouslyproportioned rooms embody
charm and serenity.
and on his return to France he vowed to create his

own project promoting Languedoc and its wine,
gastronomy, culture, music and art: twelve years
later, Chteau lHospitalet is the result of that vision.
However, despite a hectic schedule and the
demands of running one of the south of Frances
most successful wine businesses, this former
professional sportsman has never taken his eye off
the ball. He remains a highly hands-on winemaker
and is personally involved in the blending of each and
every wine: Every single bottle bears my name, he
conrms, explaining that the winemaking process is
adapted each year, at each site, to suit the particular
characteristics of the vintage. At every stages in the
production process we organize wine-tasting sessions
to set the ideal moment for running the wine off
from the vats and to get the blend right, with an eye
on how the wine is likely to evolve, he elaborates.
I taste the wines that are ready on a weekly basis,
Guests can take part in

wine workshops and tastings
in a friendly, relaxed atmosphere, or head off on foot or
mountain bike to admire La
Clapes protected ora and
fauna. In August, Chteau
lHospitalet is host to worldfamous musicians who
perform at its Jazz Festival,
attracting an audience of
hundreds. Jazz is to music
what the soil is to wine: it
comes from the soul, he
comments.
and assemble them with my team. Each bottle that

leaves our winery is an ambassador for the south of
France, so its important that each is imbued with
our message, says this passionate perfectionist who
demands the highest standards of excellence from
his team and himself.
LEADING THE WAY

IN LANGUEDOC
Grard Bertrand wines have received numerous
awards for their excellent and consistent quality,
and each year sees its harvest of medals from the
major French and international wine competitions.
In 2012, the group was awarded European Winery
of the Year by Wine Enthusiast magazine, and
Grard Bertrand received in London the Best
Red Winemaker Trophy at the International Wine
Challenge.
Special Promotion
BUILDING SOUTH OF FRANCES WINES HISTORY
96
POINTS
95
POINTS
91
POINTS
91
POINTS
91
POINTS
TALKING TERROIR WITH
GRARD
BERTRAND
Your wines are from the Languedoc regions
most exciting wine-growing areas; how did
this come about?
The diversity of Languedocs soils and climate
types never ceases to amaze me, and the desire
to showcase them is something I inherited from
my father Georges. I remember when I was a boy,
walking with him in the Corbires surrounded by
old Cathares Castles and vestiges of the Roman
Civilization. His afnity for this land and its heritage
were passed on to me. From there, Ive never stopped
looking at my region as a reserve of treasures.
Can you describe these treasure areas and what
makes them so special?
Each area is peculiar! Can you imagine a region
where fortied wines were invented in Roussillon
and sparkling wines created by monks in Saint
Hilaire Abbaye in 1531?
Limoux vineyard is one of the highest in the
Languedoc: the epitome of Chardonnay and Pinot
The celebrated CEO remains humble: Making

great wine is the result of paying utmost attention to
1001 tiny details, from the vineyard to the glass, he
comments, but every year is different, and we have
to be ever-vigilant. Naturally were delighted with
these accolades, but its important to remain focused
on our commitment to elaborate super premium
world-class wines. This year we inaugurate a brand
new winery. This architectural masterpiece is tted
with state-of-the-art equipment. The project was
while In Pic Saint Loup the nesse of Syrah liaises

with complexity of Grenache.
In the huge limestone block of la Clape, wines
are on the edge.
Picpoul de Pinet is the name of an ancient
Mediterranean varietal that gives its name to the
appellation and to the village.
In Chteau La Sauvageonne, Terrasses du
Larzac, we benet from the unlikely alliance
between schist and volcanic soils.
In Les Aspres, vineyards are located between
the sea and the mountains and confer a surprising
Grenache, Syrah and Mourvdre blend.
In Tautavel were found 450,000 year old
archaeological remains of Homo erectus, so to say
it is steeped in history is an understatement.
Minervois is a kingdom for Syrah that benets
from the the freshness of the mountains.
This is all the variety of Languedoc Roussillon I
want to reveal in my wines.
My oenothque is now covering 3 centuries of
History. Our oldest, Legend Vintage Rivesaltes is a
1875 vintage! Treasures need to be collected and
kept for next generations.
entrusted to Jean-Frdric Luscheran architect

who worked on the Dominus Estate in California
and designed in line with eco-construction
principles. Everything about this winery resembles
us: its a perfect blend of tradition and modernity,
says Grard Bertrand.
No doubt that with 26 years of experience under
his belt, this talented, driven yet spiritual player will
continue to go from strength to strength. Moreover,
a new project is announced to be revealed in June.
90
POINTS
90
POINTS
ENVIRONMENT &
BIODYNAMICS
Grard Bertrand has made a lasting
commitment to the environment. Promoting
biodiversity is key: 25 different grape varieties
are grown across the Grard Bertrand estates,
along with a variety of trees such as olive
and trufe oak. A sustainable development
policy is in place, and sustainable, organic
or biodynamic viticulture is practiced
across all the Grard Bertrand estates, with
three (Domaine de Cigalus, Chteau La
Sauvageonne and Chteau lHospitalet)
biodynamic-certied or in conversion.
Ultimately, we want to farm all our estates
according to biodynamic principles, says
Grard, whose interest in this agricultural
method was kindled by a meeting with a
homeopathic doctor, the subsequent reading
of biodynamics founder Rudolf Steiners text
book and a 10-year series of experiments
in the vineyard resulting in wines that have
more freshness, minerality and vibrancy,
according to their creator. With Domaine de
Cigalus, Grard Bertrand took quality to the
extreme, setting the 185-acre estate on the
ambitious road of biodynamics (Demeter
certication was granted in 2010), and he has
never looked back.
Protecting the environment, restoring
balance and harmony to our ecosystems,
fostering excellence in wine-growing
techniques and thinking about the next
generation are key issues for us, says Grard;
as a father, he knows that the measures he
puts in place today are part of his familys
future well-being.
viewpoint
DRINKING IN NAPA
t the 2014 edition of Premiere Napa Valley, the regions
top trade event, more than 90 percent of the auction lots
were big, hearty red wines. Of the 225 wines offered, only
seven were whiteincluding two sparklersand seven
were Pinot Noir.
That adds up to a lot of tannin and, generally speaking, a fair bit off
alcohol as well.
To be fair, most visits to Napa arent quite that CabernetMORE THAN
centric. Many wineries at least pour a Sauvignon Blanc or
CABERNET
a Chardonnay (sometimes both), which can help refresh
ROBERT SINSKEY
palates before diving into a lineup of red wines.
VINEYARDS
Still, the focus of almost any tasting trip to Napa will be
$25 tasting includes four
wines and small bites
the regions big reds, generally Cabernet Sauvignon. And after
from the kitchen.
a day of palate-staining tasting, you might be in the mood for
something different come evening.
NAPA SMITH
BREWERY
Thats certainly how I felt during a recent visit.
Tours at 4 pm daily.
Thankfully, the regions restaurateurs seem to have
Ten beers on tap.
discovered the same thing. While most wine lists lean heavily
GOOSE & GANDER
on Napa offerings, many reach over the county line for their
Extensive, inventive
white wine offerings. Some restaurants do however feature
cocktail list. Full menu.
zesty local whites, like Sinskeys Abraxas, a Carneros-grown
blend of Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Gewrztraminer.
Alternatively, visitors can do like the local winemakers do and
refresh their palates with beer.
Trumer Pils, originally from Austria but now made 40 minutes
away in Berkeley, is the lightest, crispest local brew that visitors are
likely to encounter.
Even closer is Napa Smith Brewery, located across from the Napa
airport. Its taproom is a bit out of the way if youre in the heart of the
valley, but the beers are available at numerous locations. Stop into
Cantina on the main drag in St. Helena when you need the comfort off
a Napa Smith Amber Ale served in a zero-pretension zone.
Not a beer drinker?
Aim your cocktail sights high at Goose & Gander (the former Martini
House), also in St. Helena. Although star mixologist and 2013 Wine
Enthusiast 40 Under 40 honoree Scott Beattie has joined Meadowood,
the mixed-drinks program he started lives on.
Exotic ingredients like Chinese five-spice powder and star anise
mingle easily with fresh produce and Bay Area spirits from Hangar 1,
St. George and Distillery No. 209, spun together in ingenious, palaterousing combinations.
At almost every turn, Napas restaurants and bars offer exciting
alternatives to the regions wines, giving visitors even more reasons to
drink in the valley.
Managing Editor Joe

Czerwinski has been
visiting Napa since 1990,
witnessing a world of
change in the regions
culinary scene over
the past 25 years.
ROBERT SINSKEY
Places to go when you need something different.
Hyde de Villaine
Solbar
Milliken Creek Inn & Spa
Lucy
An undiscovered
world awaits wine lovers
who venture off the
valleys beaten path.
BY VIRGINIE BOONE
P H O T O S B Y K AT I E N E W B U R N
PHOTO CREDIT
irst-time travelers to Napa Valley often

appreciate the apparent simplicity of its
infrastructure. Large, well-signed wineries
line the backbone of Route 29, making
each visit as easy as pulling into a driveway.
But for seasoned visitors, as well as those
seeking more authentic experiences closer to
Napas rural roots, there are plenty of ways to get
off the main drag.
For one, the valley is home to as many
mountains as pockets of valley oor. Those
mountains, and their twisting side roads, are
littered with vinous gold.
At these small-scale wineries, a handful of
people make the magic happen, but a polite
phone call will often peel one of them away from
their work. Its a chance to taste through their
wines and discover their individual dreams and
terroirs.
These experiences are worth savoring for their
intimacy, proximity to one-of-a-kind vineyards
and rare wine nds.
The same applies to restaurants and inns,
equally hidden away, which offer a chance to
discover where the localsor regulars, anyway
hang out.
So turn on the GPS and turn off the highway.
Heres your guide to the roads less traveled.
Cain Vineyard & Winery
WINEMAG.COM | 43
Arkenstone Vineyards
Up the twistingly sloped, conifer-
lined narrows of Howell Mountain lies Arkenstone Vineyards, a

relative newcomer thats already making world-class Cabernet
Sauvignon. Schedule an appointment to tour and taste ($45/
person), and enjoy structured Cabernet blends, Syrah, Sauvignon
Blanc and the lovely, bone-dry Loup Rose, made in miniscule
quantities. The views of the valley are worth the price alone.
Larkmead Vineyards
Calistogas Larkmead is a respected
producer of allocated wines open by appointment daily from 10

am3 pm. Taste the winerys rare Tocai Friulano, Sauvignon Blanc,
Cabernet Sauvignon, a range of proprietary blends and the signature
Firebelle, a Bordeaux-style blend ideal for cellaring.
Palmaz Vineyards
At Palmaz Vineyards in Napa, the
two-hour appointment includes a seated tasting with small hors

doeuvres and a walk through the expansive caves (including the
worlds largest underground reinforced structure, with a height of
54 feet and diameter of 72 feet) dug into the living rock of Mount
George ($60/person). The gravity-ow winery and consultant
Mia Klein make valley standards like Cabernet Sauvignon and
Chardonnay, but also Riesling and Muscat Canelli.
Stony Hill Vineyard
On the rocky slopes of Spring
Mountain, Stony Hill is a breath of fresh air in a land of red wine. Its
a historic producer of elegant white wines, including crisp, minimally
oaked, no-malolactic Chardonnay, Gewrztraminer and Riesling.
Cabernet Sauvignon is a recent addition after 60 years of family
ownership. Proprietor Willinda McCrea and longtime winemaker
Mike Chelini give 90-minute tours and tastings ($45/person) at the
ranch house by appointment MondaySaturday from 9 am3:30
pm. Hungry groups of four should consider the cooking classes
($175/person) by appointment from 11 am3 pm.
The Grade Cellars
By denition, The Grade Cellars in
Calistoga is off the beaten pathits Wineld Vineyard is located

on remote Old Toll Road Pass. Acclaimed winemaking consultant
Failla
Thomas Rivers Brown crafts The Grade Cabernet Sauvignon and
St. Helena
owners passion, the brand is named after a passage in Robert Louis
Sea-Fog Sauvignon Blanc from two single vineyards. Reecting the

Stevensons The Silverado Squatters. By appointment.
Failla, off the Silverado Trail in St. Helena, is

personal project of Ehren Jordan, who toiled
Venge Vineyards
for years as the general manager/winemaker/
lies within the foothills of the Palisades Mountains. Its the
viticulturalist at Turley Wine Cellars. Jordan
culmination of meticulous winemaking by Kirk Venge, who
makes Sonoma Coast Chardonnay, Pinot
learned the ropes from dad Nils. The focus is Cabernet Sauvignon,
Noir and Syrah, unlikely wines for this part
with smaller smatterings of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah.
of the world. Stop in, blow your mind and
Advance reservations are required to taste allocated wines at
freshen your palate. Tours and tastings are by
the winery ranch house, limited to eight guests at a time, from
appointment.
WednesdaySunday.
an unusual nd in the Napa Valley. Its the
Also in Calistoga, Venge Vineyards
Spottswoode
St. Helena
Another family-run winery, Spottswoode,
occupies a very different setting near
downtown St. Helena. The 90-minute
tasting and tour ($50/person) includes
stops at its estate vineyard, historic family
home, gardens and ghost winery stone
cellar. It offers tasters the chance to indulge
in a more genteel side of the valley, plus
supremely elegant Cabernet Sauvignon
and Sauvignon Blanc.
Shafer Vineyards
Cain Vineyard & Winery
Hyde de Villaine
Stags Leap District
Spring Mountain
Napa
Shafers Hillside Select is one of Napas
Venture up to Cain Vineyard & Winery, remotely
Hyde de Villaine is unassumingly tucked
iconic Cabernet Sauvignons. Taste it
hidden atop Spring Mountain, to savor a view of
off a main road in downtown Napa. This
without being on the mailing list or
Napas valley oor from a western perspective.
partnership between Burgundy legend
dropping $300 by visiting family-run
Visitors are invited to climb Spring Mountain
Aubert de Villaine of Domaine de la
Shafer Vineyards in the Stags Leap
Road to the even more winding Langtry Road
Romane-Conti and long-respected
District. Tastings are by appointment
weekdays at 10 am and 11:30 am for a walk
Carneros grape-grower Larry Hyde
weekdays at 10 am and 2 pm ($55/
around the winery and tasting of current
produces gorgeously rendered Chardonnay,
person), limited to 10 guests at a time.
releases. Included is the estates signature Cain
Syrah and Belle Cousine, a blend of
The relaxed visits consist of ve wines,
Five, a classic Bordeaux-style blend with plenty
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Tastings
including Hillside.
of mountain-hewn structure ($35/person).
by appointment.
WINEMAG.COM | 45
Cindys Backstreet Kitchen

St. Helena
To eat where the locals eat, particularly winemakers,
head to Cindys Backstreet Kitchen, situated literally
on a back street behind the main drag in St. Helena. The
combination of Chef Cindy Pawlcyns elevated comfort
food (oysters, pork tacos, burgers, polenta fries and
meatloaf), inspired list of wines (by the glass and halfbottle) and casual atmosphere is hard to beat.
tion caption caption
Lucy
caption caption cap-
Yountville
Caption caption cap-
tion caption caption
Hidden in restaurant-heavy Yountville is Lucy

Restaurant & Bar. Situated within the calming
Bardessono Hotel, the menu and cocktails
are inspired by the hotel garden and nearby
purveyors, and the wine list focuses on smallproduction organic, sustainable and biodynamic
Farm
wines. The special, family-style Garden Table
Napa
around a chef-guided garden tour and cooking
Menu for 610 people is the star here, centered

demonstration, followed by lunch or dinner.
Further off the grid is Farm Restaurant

at The Carneros Inn outside of Napa,
surrounded by Instagram-worthy
swathes of vineyard and endless sky.
Enjoy dinner near the fireplace or on
the expansive patioequally desirable
destinations to take in a fresh cocktail or
two or a glass of Carneros-made wine. It
just feels like vacation.
Solbar
Alex Italian
Calistoga
Rutherford
For a true escape into swimming pool-and-palm-
In Rutherford, Alex Italian offers the chance to
tree-lined heaven, head to Solbar within the
indulge in ne Italian food in a small dining room,
connes of the Solage resort in Calistoga. Not only
just fancy enough to wear a tie or dress, but not
has the food deservedly earned a Michelin star,
otherwise ridiculously overstated. Grandly made
inspired by local, sustainably-farmed ingredients
pasta is on heavy rotation, with secondi centered
turned into California soul food, its the place to
on the likes of seared duck, wild-caught sea bass
while away an afternoon or early evening indulging
and Sonoma rabbit. The well-stocked half-
in ridiculously delicious cocktails (the Charbay
bottle list of Napa and international superstars
Green Tea Vodka-based Sex in the Valley is a
(Araujo, Opus One, Gaja) alone makes Alex well
favorite) or wines on tap. The wine list is inspired,
worth the stopsample several from your wine
a place to discover small, local brands you havent
bucket list. The restaurant is attached to the
yet had the chance to try.
tranquil Rancho Caymus Inn, also worth a visit.
WINEMAG.COM | 47
Calistoga Ranch
Calistoga
Calistoga Ranch is hidden among the trees off
a back road on the eastern edge of Calistoga.
Sprawling over 157 acres, with 50 wellappointed rooms and lodges, spa services,
forest and hiking trails, its a true getaway
thats not too removed from the action. The
Lakehouse is the propertys onsite restaurant,
overlooking Lake Lommel.
The Poetry Inn

Stags Leap
The Poetry Inn, perched atop a climbing Stags Leap District
road, denes hideaway, a contrast to sister property Cliff Lede
Vineyards down below. Rooms range from 9601,450 square
feet, with a three-course gourmet breakfast included in any stay.
Rooms face west to take in the views of the Mayacamas range,
and feature ne amenities like Italian linens, wood-burning
replaces and outdoor showers. Theres an outdoor pool and
hot tub, and much more. The entire property may be rented for
larger groups or serious privacy.
The Poetry Inn
Milliken Creek Inn & Spa

Napa
Milliken Creek Inn & Spa lies hidden
along the Silverado Trail behind the
city of Napa along Milliken Creek. With
12 luxurious rooms, complimentary
breakfast and soothing spa treatments,
it emphasizes mental and physical
renewal, a philosophy that includes
wine, of course. The inn hosts the Magic
Hour every night, a wine-and-cheese
reception held at sunset, then pours
premium Ports to close out the night.
The Poetry Inn
WINEMAG.COM | 49
NAPAS
UNSUNG
HEROES
Though often overshadowed by the regions big reds,
Napa Valleys top white wines shouldnt be overlooked.
BY
STEVE HEIMOFF
PHOTOS
FRDRIC LAGRANGE
lthough the second most planted grape variety in Napa is Chardonnayand the region is famous for itNapas white wines have often been knocked as lacking the fruit and vibrancy
found in wines grown in cooler areas.
foun
And yet, these whites have a distinguished history. In the years following the repeal of
A
Prohibition, Napa Valley Smillon, Sylvaner, Folle Blanche, Traminer, Pinot Blanc, SauPro
vignon Blanc and many others, including Chardonnay, were esteemed on restaurant
vig
wine lists.
w
While great Napa Chardonnay remains rare, when its good, its very, very good.
The same can be said of other Napa whites, especially Sauvignon Blanc, arguably the regions
most expressive white wine.
Rhne-style white wines, including Viognier, are more questionable, but diligent searching
will yield pay dirt.
Among the aromatic whites like Albario, Grner Veltliner, Riesling and Pinot Gris/Grigio, at
their best they display classic Napa elegance and balance. The catch? There arent a lot of them.
WINEMAG.COM | 51
Chardonnay
The best Napa Chardonnays come from
cool, southern sectionsa broad corridor
that stretches from Carneros through Oak
Knoll and Coombsville. It reaches up into
the southern Vaca Mountains, sweeps across
the Stags Leap District and Yountville, and
stretches up onto the slopes of Mount Veeder.
Its a stretch to assert that good Chardonnay cant be grown north of Yountville or
Stags Leap. Too many exceptions exist.
Freemark Abbey has crafted fine versions
from Howell Mountain, while Smith-Madrones bottlings from Spring Mountain have
long been notable for their tight minerality.
In the warmer parts of Napas flatlands,
Chardonnay is pretty much a commodity
grape, if grown at all.
Carneros, with its wide-open exposure to
the winds and fogs of San Pablo Bay, is the
pivot point for Chardonnay in Napa Valley.
Shafers Red Shoulder Ranch is a flagship,
as are Chardonnays from Vine Cliff, Kazmer
& Blaise, Baldacci, Donum, Patz & Hall, Pine
Ridge, Failla and Artesa.
These wines are marked not only by fruit,
but crisp acidity and lingering minerality.
These are streamlined wines, elegant rather
than dramatic, that pair brilliantly with food.
Ehren Jordan, who sources Chardonnay from the Hudson Vineyard for his Failla
brand, doesnt think that Carneros is quite as
cool as people believe.
Compared to [Sonoma Countys] Petaluma Gap, its an oven, he says.
But Carneross deep clay soils, the result
of the regions estuarial origins along the
shores of San Pablo Bay, play a key role in
shaping the wines structures. The soils retain freshness in the grapes, even during heat
waves that can exceed 100 degrees.
Northeast of Carneros, Jarvis has one of
Napas best track records for Chardonnay.
The estate vineyard, in the Vaca Mountains
south of Atlas Peak, has the perfect combination of warm days and cool nights.
Chardonnay needs to ripen, yet retain
mouthwatering acidity, and location plays a
key role, says winemaker Ted Henry.
Were close to San Pablo Bay, so we get
that marine influence, Henry says.
Another fine Chardonnay from this region
just north of the city of Napa is Signorello Estates Hopes Cuve bottling.
The grapes come from the estate vineyard

beside the Silverado Trail. While the resulting wine is lush in oak and lees, and creamy
from full malolactic fermentation, a touch of
Carneros briskness often shows up as saline
minerality and keen acidity.
Some of the best Napa Chardonnays are
blends. Hunnicutts is a good example, combining fruit from a Coombsville vineyard
with grapes from warmer Rutherford.
Justin Stephens, the owner/winemaker,
concedes that Rutherford, outside the arc of
coolness, generally produces insipid, flabby Chardonnay.
But for some reason, our vineyard retains acidity, despite having fairly high pH,
he says. Its bizarre.
Stephens believes that the old vines used
have become attuned to that environment.
The Coombsville vineyard brings a more
linear component and a better acid profile,
he says, due to its more southerly location.
The two wines are pretty disparate, tasted
on their own.
The combination of the two shows how
divots from individual sites can be filled in
through the art of judicious blending.
Napas Other White Wines

Beyond Chardonnay and Sauvignon
Blanc, good bottlings tend to be individual efforts. While a winery might focus
on a particular grape, success doesnt
generally translate to the valley as a
whole.
That doesnt mean these wines arent
worth seeking out. All of the following
are worth tryingthey may even become
personal favorites.
Albario: Abrente, Artesa, Hendry
Chenin Blanc: Ballentine, Chappellet
Gewrztraminer: Stony Hill
Grner Veltliner: Von Strasser
Malvasia Bianca: Ballentine
Rhne-style blends: Krupp Brothers
Riesling: Smith-Madrone, Stony Hill,
Trefethen, V. Sattui
Roussanne: Truchard
Vermentino: Mahoney
Viognier: Darioush, Freemark Abbey
Other blends: Massican, Matthiasson,
Robert Sinskey
Recommended Wines
94
Jarvis 2012 Finch Hollow Estate Grown Cave Fermented

Unltered Chardonnay (Napa Valley). This starts off oaky, which is
understandable given that it was
aged in 100% new French barrels.
Then the acidity and lees hit you, a
welcome parry to the woody sweetness. Lurking just below the surface are mango, pineapple, peach,
kumquat and lime fruit flavors,
as ripe as any Chardonnay on the
market. Its a flashy, opulent wine,
but young. One of the few Chards
that deserves a Cellar Selection
designation, it will show better after 2016. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $130
93
Failla 2011 Hudson Vineyard

Chardonnay (Napa Valley).
This precisely crafted wine lifts
Carneros Chardonnay to a whole
new level. Yes, its pricy, but its
so complex and decadent that its
worth it. The alcohol is refreshingly low, the acidity is bright, and
theres a lick of steel to balance the
nectarine and mango fruit, buttered-toast and cream flavors.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $50
93
Jeff Hill 2012 Chardonnay

(Napa Valley). Heres an
example that Napa Valley really can
produce great Chardonnay. Its a
terrific wine, utterly dry and crisp,
with a flinty minerality and lime,
peach and green-apple flavors. It
was largely barrel-fermented, but
the oak never feels heavy or tastes
sweet. Instead, it provides a subtle
perfume throughout. Dont drink
this wine too cold, or youll miss
the nuances.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $50
93
Shafer 2011 Red Shoulder

Ranch Chardonnay (Carneros). A huge Chardonnay, so
full-bodied and rich, its almost
like a red wine, but thats the Red
Shoulder personality. With flavors
of buttercream, jammy tropical
fruit, orange custard, vanilla, buttered toast and brown sugar, it
would be over the top, except for
vibrant acidity and a deep minerality. Drink now2017.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $50
92
Pine Ridge 2010 Le Petit

Clos Chardonnay (Stags
Leap District). Very rich and dramaticthe grapes used for this
wine were grown in a tiny, cool
block of the estate in this corner
of Cabernet country. Its full yet
balanced, with crisp acidity, tangy
minerality and lots of ripe tropicalfruit flavors. This did not undergo
malolactic fermentation.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $65
91
Hunnicutt 2012 Chardonnay

(Napa Valley). Known as a
Cabernet specialist, Hunnicutt also
knows Chardonnay, as evidenced
by a string of successes since 2008.
The 2012 is a rich, rewarding wine.
Its extraordinarily ripe in peach,
green-apple and tropical-fruit flavors. The grapes were sourced from
cool Coombsville and warm Rutherford, giving the wine exceptional
balance.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $45
Sauvignon Blanc
Without an extra kick of sunshine, Sauvignon Blanc can have unpleasant vegetal aromas. Overcropping, which often exists with
commodity Sauvignon Blanc, accentuates
the problem, sacrificing quality for quantity.
Although important exceptions exist,
Napas southern arc of Chardonnay country is too cool for Sauvignon Blanc. The best
sites are further northwest and inlandthe
western benches extending from Oakville
and Rutherford, hopping across Highway 29
into the Rutherford flats and up to Calistoga.
After tinkering with a barrel-fermented
style in the 1990s that largely didnt work,
vintners have developed a more hands-off
approach to Sauvignon Blanc. They pick earlier to maintain freshness and acidity, expose
the wines to only limited oak and sometimes
fatten them up with a little Smillon.
Many like to put Sauvignon Blanc through
malolactic fermentation, but as consumer
tastes have swung toward crispness, winemakers increasingly block it.
The Oakville bench is home to the fabled
To Kalon Vineyard. Robert Mondavis head of
winemaking, Genevive Janssens, says that
while To Kalon is more famous for Cabernet Sauvignon, the vineyards gravelly, welldrained soil gives freshness and minerality to
Sauvignon Blanc.
But its also her winemaking technique
that elevates and expresses the terroir.
We always put a little Smillon in, and
the oak varies, says Janssens. We test each
individual barrel, and if one is too overpowering in oak, we dont include it.
In cool years, Janssens says, she manages
the pyrazines by letting the grapes hang longer, even at the risk of early rains.
Kevin Morrisey, winemaker at Ehlers
Lane a bit further north in St. Helena, recognizes that his terroir is quite warm.
I dont have to worry about picking grapes
green or unripe, says Morrisey. Theres never any of that pyrazine, bell pepper.
The warmth enables him to harvest at relatively low brix.
I keep pushing the envelope in terms
of how early I pick, Morrisey says. Maybe
someday, the wines will be good at 12.9 percent, and Id get even more of that natural
acidity.
Brian Kosi, at Atalon, took a classic ap-
proach with his 2012 Sauvignon Blanc.

Blended with a splash of Smillon, it was fermented in stainless steel, but partially aged
in neutral oak, with exposure to the lees.
However, Kosi blocked the malolactic fermentation.
We want to retain that natural acidity,
he says.
The grapes hail from both warm and cool
areas across the valley.
We can produce a much more complex
wine by blending, Kosi says, noting that
it allowed Atalon to boost production to
10,000 cases.
Yet, just as good Chardonnay can come
from warm areas, quality Sauvignon Blanc
can be produced from cool ones.
Grgich Hills winemaker, Ivo Jeramaz,
grows the grapes for his Essence Sauvignon
Blanc in American Canyon, an unappellated
area south of the city of Napa that he says is
chillier than Carneros.
So how does he avoid green notes?
We control yields, says Jeramaz, neph-
The Sweeter Side of Napa

With its warm, lingering autumns, Napa can
produce extraordinary sweet wines. Here are
three favorites.
Beringer Nightingale
(Smillon-Sauvignon Blanc)
Far Niente Dolce
(Smillon-Sauvignon Blanc)
Joseph Phelps Eisrbe (Scheurebe)
ew of winery founder Mike Grgich. Most of

our vineyards are dry-farmed, so canopies
dont get gigantic.
Low yields focus flavors in the grapes,
thereby concentrating the wines richness.
Jeramazs techniques, which include aging
on the lees in large French foudres, also help
to round and soften the wine.
Jeramaz doesnt blend in Smillon, but he
uses some of the musqu clone of Sauvignon
Blanc, which adds a Muscat-like spiciness
and complexity to his wines.
Recommended Wines
95
92
92
93
92
91
Grgich Hills 2012 Essence

Estate Grown Sauvignon
Blanc (Napa Valley). The Essence in the designation refers
to the wines sources, which are
selected blocks from the winerys
vineyards in the southern part
of Napa. The wine is absolutely
dry, mouthwatering in acidity and
vastly complex. Theres a touch of
smoky, vanilla-scented French oak,
but the fruit flavors star. They suggest stone-driven minerals, Meyer
lemons, limes, white peaches, pink
grapefruits and a savory, umamirich note of figs. The wine is ideal
now, and it should evolve for many
years.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $50
Ehlers Estate 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (St. Helena).
This is one of the best Sauvignon
Blancs of the vintage, from a winery with a fine track record for producing the variety. Maybe its the
organic fruit that makes it so pure.
Certainly, the absence of noticeable oak lets the citrus and tropical
fruits shine. With refreshingly low
alcohol and lots of mouthwatering
acidity, its an absolute delight to
drink now. Editors Choice.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $28
Atalon 2012 Sauvignon

Blanc (Napa Valley). Dry
and crisp with acidity, this Sauvignon Blanc, with 3% Smillon,
was fermented in stainless steel
but partially aged in neutral oak
barrels. The palate shows complex
flavors of citrus fruits, Asian pears,
lychee, cashews, vanilla, minerals
and white pepper, with a touch of
honey. The grapes come from all
around the valley, including the
cooler Oak Knoll District as well
as warmer St. Helena. A brilliant
example of blending, and easy to
find, with 10,000 cases produced.
Editors Choice.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
Robert Mondavi 2011 Reserve To Kalon Vineyard

Fum Blanc (Napa Valley). The cool
vintage resulted in an unusually
lean and streamlined wine, but by
no means uninteresting. Its subtly
fruity, with hints of citrus zest and
grapefruit. The main note, however, is gooseberrybarely ripe,
acidic, mouthwatering and whitepeppery. The finish is absolutely
dry. It should develop earthy, dried
fruit notes over the next six years.
Editors Choice.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $40
Ziata 2011 Sauvignon Blanc

(Napa Valley). The price
makes this one of the more expensive Sauvignon Blancs on the market, but its also one of the best. The
grapes come from a cool region in
east Napa and from warmer Rutherford. The wine shows terrifically
ripe, complex fruit flavors, with a
superb structure of acidity and a
minerally chalkiness that makes it
tangy. It was fermented in stainless steel and aged in neutral oak
barrels. The formula is frequently
copied, but few Sauvignon Blancs
achieve this level of quality.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $28
B Cellars 2012 Sauvignon
Blanc (Napa Valley). A lovely
wine, wonderful to drink now, and
can be paired with charcuterie,
ceviche or even asparagus. The
grapes were mostly fermented in
stainless steel, with just a little
neutral oak, leaving the tropical
fruit, spearmint and peach flavors
to star. Brisk in acidity, its a bargain at this price.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $29
WINEMAG.COM | 55
MAKING SENSE OF
MONTALCINO
Producers in Tuscanys agship
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BRUNOMORANDI/ROBERT
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ROBERT HARDING
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er
off cr
crea
creating
eati
ting
ng subzones
ssub
ub
bzo
zone
ness
ne
in M
Mon
Montalcino.
onta
on
talc
ta
lcin
lc
ino.
in
o. No
Now,
Now,
No
w, I gget
et m
mor
more
oree an
or
and
d mo
more
ore q
questions
uest
ue
stio
st
ions
nss rregardegar
eg
ardar
ding th
ing
in
the
he ph
phys
physical
hys
ysic
icall location
ic
loc
loc
ocat
a io
at
ion off the
ion
the
he vineyards.
v
vin
iney
in
eyar
ey
ards
ar
ds.
ds
.
Cinzanos
Ciinz
Cinz
n an
a o
oss observations
ob
bse
serv
rvat
atio
ions
ns refl
reflect
ect consumer
ccon
o su
on
s me
merr ap
appr
appreciation
p ec
pr
ecia
iati
tion
ti
on of
of
th
the
he gr
grow
growing
owin
ow
ingg trend
tren
tr
end
d among
amon
am
ongg Italian
Ital
It
alia
ian
n winemakers
wine
wi
nema
ne
make
ma
keers to
to focus
focu
fo
c s less
cu
less on
on
cellar
cell
ce
l ar practices
ll
pra
pra
ract
ctic
ct
ices
ic
es aand
nd m
more
oree on v
or
vin
vineyardsspecifi
iney
in
eyar
ey
ards
ar
dss
ds
spe
s
peci
pe
cifi
ci
fically,
call
ca
lly,
ll
y, vineyard
vin
iney
ney
eyar
ad
ar
location.
lo
ocati
cati
ca
tion
on..
on
Barbaresco
Barb
Barb
Ba
bar
ares
e co and
es
and Barolo
Bar
arol
o o led
ol
l d the
le
the way
way in
n 2007
200
2
007
00
7 and
and 2010,
2010
20
10,, when
10
when
the
the two
two denominations
deno
de
nomi
no
mina
mi
nati
na
tion
ti
onss offi
on
offici
cially
cial
ci
ally
al
ly mapped
map
m
appe
ap
ped
pe
d out
out their
thei
th
eirr vineyards
ei
vine
vi
neya
ne
yard
ya
rd
rds
ds
into
into geographic
ge
ge
geog
ogra
og
raph
ra
ph
phic
ic mentions.
men
m
enti
en
tion
ti
ons.
on
s. In Chianti
s.
Chi
Chian
hian
anti
ti Classico,
Cla
C
lass
la
ass
ssic
ico,
ic
o producers
o,
pro
pro
rodu
duce
du
cers
ce
rs
are
are rallying
rall
ra
llyi
ll
ying
yi
ng to
to create
c ea
cr
eate
te subzones
ssub
ubzo
ub
zo
one
ness based
b seed on that
ba
ttha
hatt regions
ha
regi
re
giion nine
townships.
tow
owns
nshi
ns
hiipss.
Montalcino,
Mo
Mont
ont
ntal
alci
cino
ci
no,, however,
no
howe
ho
howe
weve
ver,
r, is
is a single
sing
si
ngle
ng
lee township.
ttow
ow
wns
nshi
hip.
hip.
hi
p Most
Mos
ostt prod
pr
producrod
duc
uc-erswith
e s
er
swi
with
wi
th some
ssom
omee notable
om
nota
no
tabl
ta
blee exceptions,
bl
e cept
ex
ptio
ions
ns,, like
ns
like
k Altesinos
Alt
ltesin
ltes
ino
os Montosoli
Mont
Mont
Mo
ntos
osol
os
oli
oli
bottlingdont refer to
to their
th
heiir single vineyards on labels or as
distinct geographic locations.
This has led to the perception that Montalcino is one big,
happy denomination, with no need to highlight differences by
adding another layer
er of geographic precision.
Producers
Prod
Pr
oduc
ucers here
re are
are divided
div
divid
ided
ed over
ove
o
verr zoning.
zoni
zo
ning
ng. Opponents
Oppo
Op
p nent
ntss fear
fear
a
that a classification system would penalize them, says Fabrizio
Bindocci, president of the Brunello di Montalcino consortium.
Our 5,187 acres of Brunello represent the premier cru of
Montalcino, the best areas that you can find throughout every
part of the
th
he township,
town
to
wn
nsh
hip
p, with
with no
wi
o distinctions,
d st
di
stin
inct
cttio
ons
ns,
, says
ssay
ayss Bindocci.
Bind
Bi
ndoc
occi
c . So
ci
So
far, no one has
has put
ha
pu
ut forth
fort
fo
fort
rth
h a zoning proposal.
pro
ropo
p sa
po
sal.
l. If
If producers
prod
pr
oduc
ucer
ers do,
do
then well
well evaluate
eva
valu
valu
luaatte
te it.
itt.
For
Fo Piero
P ero
Pi
erro Antinori,
Anti
An
tino
ti
in
no
orrii, zoning
zo
oning
ng is
is premature.
prem
pr
emat
em
atur
ure.
e
e.
Zoning
Z
Zon
oning runs
runs the
thee risk
rris
isk
is
k of
o giving
giv
ivin
ingg imprecise
in
imprec
impr
ecis
isee and
and misleading
misl
mi
slea
eadi
d ng
di
evaluations,
ev
valuations, says Antinori.
Anttin
norri. I
I think
th
hin
ink
k we still
ssti
till
ll need
n
nee
eed
d more
more years
years
ears
of experience
exp
xper
erie
ienc
ncee to carry
ccar
a ry out
ar
out a work
wor
ork
k of solid
ssol
olid
id scientifi
ssci
cien
entiifi
ficc value
valu
va
luee that
that
this
t is delicate
th
del
elic
icat
ic
atee matter
at
matt
ma
tter
tt
er requires.
rreq
equi
eq
uire
ui
res.
re
s..
Other producers
prod
pr
od
o
duc
u er
erss say
say zoning
zo
oni
ning
n is
ng
is essential
esse
es
sent
ntia
iall now.
now.
Sangiovese,
Sang
Sa
ngio
iove
vese
se,, the
se
the only
on
nly
y grape
ggra
rape
ra
pe allowed
aall
llow
ll
owed
ow
ed in
in Brunello,
Brun
Br
unel
un
ello
el
lo,, is notorilo
not
otor
oriiously
ousl
ou
slly site-sensitive
sly
site
si
te-s
-sen
sen
ensi
siti
si
iti
t ve and
and
nd performs
per
erfo
f rm
fo
rms diff
differently
eren
er
entl
en
tly
tl
y depending
depe
de
pend
pe
ndin
ndin
i g on its
its
environment.
envi
en
viro
vi
ronm
nmen
en
nt.
In the
the vast
vas
astt township
town
to
wnsh
wn
ship
sh
ip
p of
of Montalcino,
Mont
Mo
n al
nt
alci
cino
ci
no,, growing
no
grow
gr
owin
ow
ingg conditions
in
c nd
co
dit
itio
ions
io
ns
vary
vary dramatically.
d
dra
rama
mati
ma
tica
ti
call
ca
lly.
y Vineyard
y.
Vin
iney
eyar
ard
d altitudes
alti
al
titu
ti
tude
dess range
de
rang
ra
ngge from
from
fr
om 300
300 to
to over
overr
1,640
1,64
1,
640
64
0 feet
feet above
aabo
bove
bo
ve sea
sea level,
llev
evel
ev
el,, there
el
ther
th
eree is
er
i a dizzying
diz
diz
izzy
zyin
zy
ingg array
in
arra
ar
ray
ra
y of soils
ssoi
oils
oi
lss and
and
summertime
s mm
su
mmer
erti
er
time
ti
me temperatures
ttem
empe
em
pera
pe
ratu
ra
t re
tu
ress can
caan vary
vaary more
v
mor
oree than
than seven
ssev
even
en
n degrees
d
deg
egre
eg
rees
re
es
from
from
o north
nor
n
orth
or
th to
to south.
sout
so
uth.
ut
h
h.
Wine
Wine styles
ssty
tyle
ty
less here
le
here can
can range
rran
ange
an
ge from
fro
r m elegant
eleg
el
egan
eg
antt and
an
a d ageworthy
an
agew
ag
ewor
ew
orth
or
th
hy to
muscular
musc
mu
scul
sc
ullar and
ular
and immediate.
iimm
mm
med
edia
iate
ia
te.. Subzone
te
Sub
Su
bzon
zon
onee supporters
supp
su
ppor
pp
orte
or
teerss insist
ters
iins
nsis
ns
ist that
t at
th
a creccre
re-re
ating
atin
at
in
ng separate
sepa
se
para
pa
rate
ra
te regions
rreg
egio
eg
ions
io
ns will
wil
w
illl highlight
il
high
high
hi
ghli
ligh
li
ghtt the
gh
the characteristics
char
ch
arac
ar
acte
ac
teri
te
rist
stic
st
icss of each
ic
eeac
a h
ac
and
and help
h lp consumers
he
ccon
onsu
on
sume
su
mers
me
rs navigate
nav
avig
iggat
atee the
t e minefi
th
m ne
mi
nefi
fiel
eld
eld of Brunello
B
Bru
rune
ru
nell
ne
llo
ll
o styles.
s yl
st
yles
es..
es
All
All the
the great
gre
reat
at wine
w
win
inee denominations
in
deno
de
nomi
no
mina
mina
nati
tion
tion
onss inn the
the world
w
wor
orld
or
l are
ld
are
r divided
div
div
ivid
ided
id
ed
into
i to smaller,
in
sma
mall
ller
er,, distinct
disttin
dist
di
nctt subzones,
ssub
ubzo
ub
zone
nes,
ne
s, says
s,
says Andrea
An
A
ndre
ndre
reaa Costanti,
Cost
Co
stan
st
anti
an
ti,
ti
i, a highly
hiigh
h
ghly
ly
regarded
regaard
rega
re
rded producer.
rded
p
pro
rodu
ro
duce
du
cer.
ce
r. Montalcino
Mo
Mont
Mont
Mo
ntal
alci
al
lcciino
no cant
ccan
ant
an
tt avoid
aavo
void
vo
i the
id
the
he situation
ssit
itua
it
uati
tion
ti
on for
for
much
much
h longer.
llon
onge
on
ger.
r. And
And
d a better
bet
ette
terr knowledge
te
know
kn
now
o le
ledg
dge of
of Montalcino
Mon
nta
talc
l in
lc
ino
o and
and its
is
it
wines
wine
wi
ness will
ne
wiill only
o
onl
nly
nl
y benefi
ben
be
nefi
nefi
ne
fitt everyone
ever
ev
eryo
er
yone
yo
ne in
in the
the long
long run.
lo
rrun
un.
un
Even
Even though
ttho
houg
ho
ugh
h some
some
so
me subzones
ssub
ubzo
zo
one
nes are clearly
clearly
l
superior
superior to
to others,
others,
deciding
deciding which
which Brunello
Brunello to
to buy
buy depends
depends on
on what
what consumers
consumers
are
are seeking.
seeking. Those looking for ageworthy Brunellos that will
develop layers
layers of
of complexity
complexity should
should concentrate
concentrate on the origioriginal
nal growing
growing areas
areas around
around Montalcinos
ar
Montalcin
no
os town
town
to
wn center.
ccen
enter.
r.
For
Forr more
Fo
more muscular
mus
uscu
cula
larr Brunellos,
Brun
Br
unel
elllos,
s, consumers
ccon
onsu
sume
mers
rs should
sho
shoul
uld investiin
inve
vest
stiigate
gate bottlings
bottlings from
from SantAngelo.
SantAngelo. For
For combined
combined elegance
elegance and
and
power,
power, look
look to
to Castelnuovo
Castelnuovo dellAbate.
dellAbate.
Though
Though unoffi
unofficial,
cial, the
the following
following breakdown
breakdown is
is widely
widely reregarded
garded as
as the
the most
most sensible
sensible initial
initial zoning
zoning for
for Brunello.
Brunello.
WINEMAG.COM | 57
Montalcino
Many of Brunellos 200 or so producers cluster near the town center. These estates are
generally small and occupy the regions most
elevated vineyards, at 9841,640 feet.
With rich bouquets and ample complexity, these wines often need years to reach
their prime, thanks to naturally high acidity
and bracing tannins that yield the longestlived and most elegant Brunellos.
Even this zone can be divided into distinct microzones.
North of Montalcino, artisanal estates
make enticingly aromatic Brunellos on soils
dominated by limestone and clay. The best
are remarkably complex, like those from Il
Marroneto, Paradiso di Manfredi, Altesino,
Canalicchio di Sopra and Baricci.
This is also home to MontosoliMontalcinos most famous single vineyard. It
consistently produces wines that combine
heady aromas and elegance with ripe fruit
and firm structure.
South of Montalcino, infertile, calcareous
soils encourage deep roots to reach underlying minerals that add depth and complexity. At the highest vineyards in the district,
marked variations between day and night
temperatures generate intense aromas.
Most of the denominations storied producers are here, including Biondi Santi, Costanti and Barbi. Rising stars include
Gianni Brunelli, whose Brunello includes
grapes from Le Chiuse di Sotto in the north,
which add elegance and perfume, and Podernovone to the south, which lend structure
and depth.
Montalcino
Long-lived, elegant wines.
Recommended producers:
Altesino, Barbi, Baricci, Biondi-Santi,
Canalicchio di Sopra, Costanti,
Gianni Brunelli, Il Marroneto,
Paradiso di Manfredi
Castelnuovo dellAbate
Powerful yet graceful wines.
Ciacci Piccolomini dAragona,
Mastrojanni, Uccelliera
Bosco
Montosoli
Torrenieri
Montalcino
MONTALCINO
Camigliano
Tavernelle
Sant Angelo In Colle
Sant Angelo
Sant Angelo Scalo
Castelnuovo
dell Abate
Castelnuovo dellAbate
About six miles southeast of Montalcinos
town center, in the hamlet of Castelnuovo dellAbate, producers make powerful, yet
graceful Brunellos. The multifaceted soils
of different geologic epochs impart layers of
complexity.
While the area benefits from warm temperatures that promote ripening, Montalci-
nos ridge protects vines from scorching

maritime breezes.
Castelnuovo also benefits from having a great amount of sunshine, and from
the cooling effect of the Orcia River below,
says Paolo Bianchini of Ciacci Piccolomini
dAragona.
Castelnuovo Brunellos have round, fine
tannins and age well, thanks to moderate
acidity generated by vineyard altitudes of
8201,476 feet.
PECOLD/SHUTTERSTOCK; MICK ROCK/CEPHAS
Rome
Special Promotion
R O B E RT S O N W I N E RY W I N E S
Outstanding wines that deliver well beyond their price
ue east of Cape Town, South Africa,

the backdrop of the Langeberg
Mountains highlights rows of
perfectly situated vineyards spilling
down gentle slopes to one of the countrys
foremost wine producers, Robertson Winery,
celebrated for producing wines of substance well
beyond their price.
In less than 75 years, Robertson Winery has
developed into a leader in the South African
wine industry, backed by years of experience,
knowledge, and family tradition.
Their story began almost three quarters of
a century ago, when two grape growers, Giepie
Rossouw and Alwyn Bruwer, convinced a
number of local farming families to form a new
venture, naming it after a Scottish minister, Dr
William Robertson, whod settled in the area.
An abandoned missionary church served as their
rst winery, laying the foundation upon which
the winerys reputation rests today. As testament
to their erce pride and loyalty, many of the
founders descendants continue to be part of the
Robertson family, providing generation upon
generation of knowledge and expertise. The heart

of Robertson lies in these families, whove situated
their vineyards to take advantage of the cooling
ocean breezes, as well as the wealth of soil types,
from rich, alluvial banks of the Breede River, to
shale and limestone on the mountain slopes.
The breadth and depth of climates and soil
conditions has allowed Robertson to produce
an astonishing range of wines considered
exceptional values as evidenced by the number
of Best Buy designations awarded by the top
US wine magazines, including nine by the Wine
Enthusiast since 2008. The quality to price ratio is
especially strong in the Robertson Winery Range,
comprised of Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc,
Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir,
and Gewrztraminer.
Robertsons commitment to producing
exceptional wines with a real sense of place is well
represented by Robertson Vineyard Selection.
Sourced from single vineyard sites, the range
includes the Phanto Ridge Pinotage,
no
nota
ota
tage
g , from
ge
from a
fr
vineyard located in the foothills off the
the Langeberg
Mountains and the Wolfkloof Shiraz,
Shir
Sh
iraz
ir
az,
az
z, from
from
fr
m a
vineyard owned by the same family since 1886.

In 2004, Robertson Winery introduced
Number One Constitution Road Shiraz to
commemorate ten years of democracy in South
Africa under the new constitution. Selected from a
single premier Robertson vineyard producing the
very nest Shiraz grapes of that vintage, the wine
is aged in oak barriques for an extended period of
time, and represents the pinnacle of the entwined
ideals of grape growing and winemaking.
With everything Robertson Winery has to
offer, the worlds wine lovers have taken notice.
As Johann Meissenheimer, Managing Director
of Indigo Wine Group, Robertsons US importer,
stated, As Robertson Winery approaches its 75th
anniversary, it is important to note that the brand
has evolved into a global presence, becoming the
recognizable face of South African wine in 55
countries and across the United States.
Northwest (Bosco) and Torrenieri

Only two sprawling estates, Tenute Silvio Nardis Casale del Bosco and Ferragamos Castiglion del Bosco, are located in the northwestern quadrant,
where protected woodlands inhibit expansion. This areas cool temperatures yield fresh, but generally less-structured wines than other zones.
In the northeast of the denomination, dense, compact clays can result
in excruciatingly tannic wines. That originally deterred the recent, widespread Sangiovese planting around the hamlet of Torrenieri.
Growers now carefully choose rootstocks and select clones to match the
soils.
The best wines hail from a limited section of hilltop vineyards, where
better soils produce full-bodied, well-balanced wines like those made by
Citille di Sopra and SassodiSole.
Bosco & Torrenieri

Fresh, but less-structured
(Bosco) and full-bodied, tannic
(Torrenieri) wines.
Castiglion del Bosco,
Citille di Sopra, SassodiSole,
Tenute Silvio Nardi
Tavernelle and Camigliano

In the hamlet of Tavernelle, southwest of Montalcino, warm temperatures
and mid-hill altitudes of 9841,148 feet encourage even ripeness.
The top Brunellos here, like those from Caprili and Armilla, boast structure, ripe fruit and depth. Other top estates include Gianfranco Solderas
Case Basse.
Further to the southwest, in the hot, arid subzone of Camigliano, wines
can easily take on overripe characteristics if producers arent scrupulous in
their vineyard management.
Brunellos to try from this zone include Antinoris Pian delle Vigne,
grown in mineral-rich soils, and Marchesato degli Aleramici, which benefits from cooling breezes from the nearby Ombrone River.
Tavernelle
& Camigliano
Evenly ripe (Tavernelle)
and potentially superripe
(Camigliano) wines.
Antinori Pian delle Vigne,
Armilla, Caprili, Marchesato degli
Aleramici, Soldera Case Basse
SantAngelo
Given the many differences within the denomination, some producers

blend Brunello from vineyards throughout
the region, like Altesino, which owns property just north of Montalcino, in SantAngelo
in Colle and Castelnuovo dellAbate.
SantAngelo
Muscular wines of variable
longevity.
Ban Poggio alle Mura,
Col dOrcia Poggio al Vento,
Lisini, Sesti Phenomena
We believe that our straight Brunello is a

true expression of Montalcino because it incorporates grapes from very different areas
throughout the entire production zone, says
Guido Orzalesi, Altesinos assistant director.
Having vineyards in three different sub-
zones helps ensure consistent quality, Orzalesi says, as harvests can vary tremendously.
It will likely take years for zoning to become a reality. Until then, the producers
name and reputation are the best guarantees
when it comes to Brunello.
MICK ROCK/CEPHAS (3)
Made up of two distinct areas located in the extreme south-southwest, this

is the hottest, driest part of the denomination.
The highest vineyards beneath the hamlet of SantAngelo in Colle, where
altitudes average 9841148 feet above sea level, produce gripping wines
with muscle, finesse and longevity.
SantAngelo Scalo, situated on the plains far below, has broiling summertime temperatures in the low-lying vineyards, especially those just
above the Orcia River, where soils are a combination of Pliocene clay and
Alluvial deposits.
This area produces dark, brawny Brunellos that are higher in alcohol and
are generally more approachable upon release than those from other zones.
Their relatively low acidity doesnt support the marathon aging for which
Brunello is famous.
While the sight of lobster, clams and

crab stacked atop a bed of ice makes
you want to grab the nearest three-pronged
fork and dig in without pause, stop and
consider switching up what to pair with your
seafood smorgasbord. Sure, the safe
choice is a crisp Chardonnay or a bottle
of bubbly. But there are many other
whitesand even a few reds and ross
that can elevate and add even more
nuance to the avors on your packed plate.
Heres your guide to the other
wines to drink the next time you
step to the raw bar.
FRDRIC LAGRANGE
BY MIKE DESIMONE & JEFF JENSSEN
WINEMAG.COM | 63
BON APPETIT/ALAMY
Oysters+
Ceviche+
Mendocino
Riesling
Crab+
Spanish
Albario
Sparkling
Chilean
Ros
SQUIRE FOX/AUGUST; GS/GALLERY STOCK; MARIE JOSE JARRY/AGE FOTOSTOCK; JERRY ERRICO/CORBIS
Lobster+
Coastal
Languedoc
White
FRDRIC LAGRANGE
Ceviche + Mendocino Riesling
Crab + Sparkling Chilean Ros
OUR PICK: Chateau Montelena 2012

Riesling (Potter Valley)
OUR PICK: Torres NV Santa Digna

Estelado Pais (Central Valley)
Seafood platters often include ceviche, uncooked
Torress Santa Digna Estelado sparkling ros is made
sh thats nely diced and tossed with lemon or lime
from Pais, the grape that migrated from Spain to South
juice, chili peppers and other spices. Preparation can
America in the 16th century. The rst ne wine made
vary, but dry Riesling will cover all the bases. Chateau
from Chiles workhorse grape, it is pale pink in color with
Montelenas Potter Valley Riesling is dry, with avors of
persistent small bubbles. Its ripe strawberry and peach
nectarine, Gala apple, rose petal and a whiff of clove.
notes are a terric match with the succulent texture
Its powerful acidity will stand up to citrus juice, while its
and sweet, lightly saline flavor of fresh crabmeat.
voluptuous mouthfeel cuts through even the hottest of
Meaty chunks and tender, aky bits of crab are even
chilies. The nicely balanced fruit, oral and spice avors
more delicious when followed by a sip of this refreshing
are worthy complements to this pan-American favorite.
sparkler.
Lobster + Coastal Languedoc White
Oysters + Spanish Albario
OUR PICK: Grard Bertrand 2011 Chteau

LHospitalet La Reserve (La Clape)
OUR PICK: Terras Gauda 2012 O Rosal (Ras

Baixas)
Whether enjoyed on its own or dipped in freshly drawn
Spaniards have been on to oysters and Albario for
butter, steamed or boiled lobster has an ethereal quality
ages. In the town of Vigo, in Galicia, theres an entire
that delights the taste buds. Chteau LHospitalet is a
street of open-air seafood restaurants where abuelas
blend of Bourboulenc, Vermentino and Grenache Blanc,
sell you a dozen oysters to accompany your wine
all grown in vineyards overlooking the Mediterranean.
and meal. Terras Gaudas O Rosal is mostly Albario,
This alluring wine offers flavors of lemon, orange,
blended with Loureiro and Caio Blanco. Flavors of
apricot, lightly toasted brioche and a hint of honey. It
white peach, citrus peel and almond blossom, with a
works really well with lobster, and the wines soft wood
strong vein of minerality, are always right with the briny
notes and zesty acidity will hold up on the palate of even
goodness of oysters on the half shell.
the most hardcore butter devotee.
WINEMAG.COM | 65
Scallops + South African Chenin Blanc

OUR PICK: Raats Family 2012 Original
Unwooded Chenin Blanc (Coastal Region)
Small bay scallops and larger sea scallops share a delicate
sweetness and a burst of salinity, although size increases
their rmness and bite. From South Africas Coastal Region,
near the conuence of the Atlantic and Indian oceans, Raats
Familys Original Unwooded Chenin Blanc is a scallops ideal
escort. The wines pureness of fruit and rich mineral backbone
are unhindered by avors from barrel aging. Notes of honeydew melon, Asian pear, ripe peach and lime zest are the consummate match to wash down scallops of any size.
Clams + Rioja
OUR PICK: Palacios Remondo 2012 La Vendimia
(Rioja)
Made of equal parts Garnacha and Tempranillo, Palacios
Remondos La Vendimia is a standout example of a joven, a
young Spanish wine aged less than six months in oak. Vibrant
fruit avors of cherry, cranberry and Sevilla orange are even
better when served slightly chilled alongside just-opened
clams on the half shell lying in a bed of ice. Salty, sweet and
with a touch of chewiness, clams transport the taste buds
from boredom to bliss. Chase one down with this brisk red,
and know that you have mastered the art of the bold pairing.
Mussels + New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc

OUR PICK: Craggy Range 2012 Te Muna Road
Sauvignon Blanc (Martinborough)
New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is a natural with the greenlipped mussels from the Land of the Long White Cloud, or
anywhere, for that matter. Craggy Ranges Te Muna Road
Sauvignon Blanc has avors of Granny Smith apple and caramelized pineapple, characterized by a bright splash of acidity
that cuts through the texture of the mussels and complements
their slightly sweet avor. Unlike grassier Sauvignon Blancs,
the Craggy Range allows the fresh avor of the sea to shine
through.
Shrimp Cocktail + Morellino di Scansano

OUR PICK: Fattoria La Pupille 2011 Morellino di
Scansano
Morellino di Scansano sits on the Mediterranean, so pairing the
regions fresh reds with just-caught seafood is a natural. Largely
made from Sangiovese, with small amounts of Malvasia Nera
and Alicante, this steel-aged red packs smooth avors of ripe
the salty-sweet combo that taste buds crave, but plunge one
into cocktail sauce to add layers of heat and tanginess. The
wines vivid fruit avors and spirited acidity ow across the
palate as a rich accompaniment to naked shrimp, or a wellmatched counterpoint to tomato and horseradish.
FRDRIC LAGRANGE
and tart cherry, backed by freesia and anise. Shrimp features
Clams+
Shrimp Cocktail+
Scallops+
IKONICA/GETTYIMAGES; AMY NEUNSINGER/CORBIS; RAMEN/SO FOOD/CORBIS; LISOVSKAYA NATALIA/SHUTTERSTOCK
South African
Chenin Blanc
Rioja
Morellino
di Scansano
Mussels+
New Zealand
Sauvignon
Blanc
WINEMAG.COM | 67
TIM GRAHAM/ROBERT HARDING
BUYINGGUIDE
Harvested Brunello grapes

ready for sorting in Val dOrcia,
Montalcino.
IN THIS MONTHS GUI

GUIDE
70
TUSCANY
111
+ 119 more reviews online
88
AUSTRIA
WASHINGTON
115
IDAHO
ONLINE
EXCLUSIVES
BRUNELLO BONANZA
75 additional reviews of Italys iconic wine.
94
BORDEAUX
116 NEW YORK
98
SPAIN
118 SPIRITS
100 ARGENTINA
119 BEER
BOUNTIFUL BORDEAUX
Reviews from across the Right and Left
Banks of Bordeaux.
WEST COAST CABS

AND BLENDS
Over 150 wines reviewed, with more than 60
rated 90 points or higher.
104 CALIFORNIA
FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM
WINEMAG.COM | 69
BUYINGGUIDE
TUSCANY
ate delivers fleshy black cherry and raspberry in the

forefront along with notes of cinnamon-spice, mocha and sage, all supported by a solid tannic backbone. de Grazia Imports LLC. K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $40
The 2009 vintage of Brunello di Montalcino
n early January 2014, I was invited to an

that need years to tame.
exclusive tasting of almost 200 soon-toThe best 09s are all about finesse and balbe-released 2009 Brunello di Montalcino
ance and will be superb over the next few years.
wines by the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di
Their precocious accessibility makes them ideal
Montalcino at their headquarters in the center
on restaurant lists. However, those 09s that are
of the celebrated hilltop town.
forcefully tannic but already lack fruit richness
My tasting of the 2009 vintage revealed
arent going to get any better. Vineyard location
that it was another challengwas crucial during 2009, and
ing year in Montalcino, and the
fuels the raging debate over ofThe best 09s
main problem was the weather.
ficially subdividing Montalcino.
Scorching summer temperatures
Our older vineyards in the
are all about
and a lack of rain dominated crunorth, where its cooler, pernesse and
cial phases of the growing seaformed better in 2009, while
balance and
son. As a result, most wines are
our younger vineyards in the
will be superb
prematurely evolved, and while
warmer southern areas suffered
this makes the best wines enjoymore, says Guido Orzalesi, esover the next
able now, many 09s deliver sentate manager at Altesino. Our
few years.
sations of cooked fruit, evident
2009 is extremely elegant and
alcohol, low acidity and fleeting
ready to be enjoyed.
tannins. Others have more acidity, but driedAlthough Brunello is the star of this issues
up fruit and aggressive, astringent tannins. And
Buying Guide, we also take a look at selections
there are many styles in between, ranging from
from Austria, Spain, France, Argentina, Califorsoft and sexy to lean and mean. The one trait
nia, Washington and New York. And, as always,
that distinguishes almost all the 2009s is a lack
be sure to check out our complete database at
of ageworthy structureunusual for wines that
buyingguide.winemag.com.
are famous for racy acidity and bracing tannins
Cheers!
Kerin OKeefe
92
Centolani 2009 Poggiotondo (Brunello

di Montalcino). This bold, balanced wine
opens with classic Sangiovese aromas of underbrush, dried tobacco leaf, red berries, blue flower
and a waft of leather. The juicy palate shows depth,
delivering ripe wild cherry accented with white
pepper, licorice and a mineral note alongside solid
but refined tannins. Drink 20162024. Soilair Selection. K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $85
92
Il Marroneto 2009 Brunello di Montalcino.

Elegant and structured, it unfolds with
black berry, blue flower, spice and leather aromas. It
has dense wild cherry flavors accented with notes of
Mediterranean herbs, white pepper, sage and mineral alongside assertive tannins. This should develop nicely over the next few years. Drink 20162024.
Montcalm Wine Importers. K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $NA
92
Le Macioche 2009 Brunello di Montalcino.

This outgoing Brunello opens with aromas
that recall blue flower, leather, rose, black fruit,
meat juices and Mediterranean herbs. The juicy, delicious palate delivers fleshy black cherry, soft raspberry, milk chocolate, licorice and grilled herbs. The
wine is friendly and approachable. Drink through
2019. Vintner Select. K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
92
Marchesi Antinori 2009 Pian delle Vigne

(Brunello di Montalcino). For full review see
page 74.
abv: 14%
Price: $75
92
2009 BRUNELLO
94
Il Marroneto 2009 Selezione Madonna delle

Grazie (Brunello di Montalcino). This gorgeous Brunello proves that top producers can make
outstanding wines even in challenging vintages like
2009. It opens with an elegant bouquet of violet,
red berry, spice and a whiff of new leather. The delicious palate delivers fleshy black cherry layered
with mint, licorice, balsamic herbs and cinnamonspice. Its impeccably balanced with firm tannins
and fresh acidity that give it an age-worthy structure. Drink 20162024. Montcalm Wine Importers.
Cellar Selection. K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $NA
92
Altesino 2009 Brunello di Montalcino.

Structured but poised, it opens with balsamic aromas of menthol, red berries, blue flower,
Asian spices and a hint of new leather. The succu-
lent palate offers dark cherry accented with notes of

mint, lemon sage and chocolate alongside polished
tannins and just enough freshness. Its delicious
and already approachable so enjoy soon. Winebow.
K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $65
92
Belpoggio 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. It

offers earthy aromas of black berries, meat
juices, Mediterranean herbs and a touch of leather.
The juicy palate delivers ripe red cherry, black raspberry and black spices together with a mineral note
on the close. Well balanced with firm, ripe tannins,
it will develop complexity over time. Wine Worldwide, Vino Direct. K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $52
92
Casato I 2009 Voliero (Brunello di Montalcino). An earthy wine, it opens with aromas
of black and red berries, toast, cooking spices and
meat juices along with a whiff of farmyard. The pal-
San Polino 2009 Helicrysum (Brunello di

Montalcino). It opens with intense red-rose
aromas that carry right over to the palate. Bright
red cherry and black raspberry flavors are accented
with cinnamon, white pepper and lemon sage that
add depth. Its well balanced with brooding but
refined tannins while fresh acidity gives it energy.
Drink 20152024. T. Edward Wines Ltd. K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $85
91
Altesino 2009 Montosoli (Brunello di Montalcino). This wine, from perhaps Montalcinos most famous single vineyard, opens with fruit
aromas of black plum, black berries, cake spices and
a whiff of new leather. The ripe, round palate delivers sweet black cherry layered with notes of chocolate and hints of vanilla alongside friendly tannins.
While it lacks its usual complexity, its juicy, delicious and extremely accessible. Drink 20152019.
Winebow. K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $125
Continued on Page 80
The Wine Enthusiast

Buying Guide
The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release
and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine
Enthusiast Magazines editors and other qualied tasters. Regular
contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Lauren
Buzzeo, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe
Czerwinski, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee
C. Iijima, Mike DeSimone and Jeff Jenssen, Contributing Taster
Andrew Hoover and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York;
European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin OKeefe
in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in England; California Editor Steve Heimoff and Contributing Editor Virginie Boone
in California; and Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean
Sullivan in Washington.
If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that tasters initials appear following the note. When no initials appear following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more reviewers and the score and tasting note reect the input of all tasters.
Unless otherwise stated, all Spirits Reviews are by Kara Newman
and all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo.
Each review contains a score, the full name of the product,
its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by the
submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content cannot
be conrmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for
750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated.
TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS
All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind unless otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group
ights of from 58 samples. Price is not a factor in assigning
scores. When possible, products considered awed or uncustomary are retasted.
97
Jarvis 2008 Estate Grown Cave Fermented

Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This low
production, 100% Cab offers the most perfectly
ripe black currant fruit, with complicating hints of
pencil lead, violets, dark chocolate shavings and,
of course, lots of toasty oak. The fact that its now
more than five years old has helped to mellow it,
but the tannins are still quite hard. The beautiful
estate vineyard sits high in the Vaca Mountains,
which helps to account for the wines intensity and
concentration. This is truly a world-class Cabernet
that will age through at least 2032. Cellar Selection. S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $130
95
Col dOrcia 2006 Poggio al Vento Riserva

(Brunello di Montalcino). This iconic
Brunello seamlessly combines power and finesse. It
opens with earthy aromas of underbrush, tobacco,
tilled soil and blackberries. The dense palate delivers juicy black cherry and raspberry alongside black
pepper, licorice and a balsam note. Its impeccably
balanced but still very young, and still showing racy
acidity and assertive tannins. Give it time to soften
and develop more complexity. Drink 20162031.
Palm Bay International. Cellar Selection. K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $150
ABOUT THE SCORES

Ratings reect what our editors felt about a particular product.
Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying
tasting note to learn about a products special characteristics.
Classic 98100:
Superb 9497:
Excellent 9093:
Very Good 8789:
Good 8386:
The pinnacle of quality.

A great achievement.
Highly recommended.
Often good value; well recommended.
Suitable for everyday consumption;
often good value.
Acceptable 8082: Can be employed in casual, lesscritical circumstances.
Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80
points) are not reviewed.
SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS
Editors Choice products are those that offer excellent quality at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any price
with unique qualities that merit special attention.
Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible
and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to
reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation
does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but
that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In
general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated.
Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in
relation to price. There are no specic guidelines or formulae for
determining Best Buys, but wines meriting this award are generally priced at $15 or less.
SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW
Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing location as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.com/
contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting & Review
Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@wineenthusiast.
net. There is no charge for submitting products. We make
every effort to taste all products submitted for review, but there
is no guarantee that all products submitted will be tasted, or
that reviews will appear in the magazine. All samples must be
accompanied by the appropriate submission forms, which may
be downloaded from our Web site.
LABELS
Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given
the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and
printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information
on label purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax
866.896.8786; or email [email protected].
Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at
buyingguide.winemag.com
94
95
Ashan 2012 Kestrel Vineyard Chardonnay

(Yakima Valley). This barrel-fermented
Chardonnay, from the oldest plantings (1972) in
Washington State, displays exceptional concentration and palate weight. Apple pie, pear tart, baking
spice, butter and caramel flavors abound. Its rich
and packed with fruit, along with the seductive flavors that aging in new French oak can provide. Editors Choice. P.G.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $45
95
Biondi Santi 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. From the grandson of the inventor of
Brunello, this iconic bottling opens with a classic
bouquet of rose, violet, berry and spice. The vibrant
palate delivers bright wild cherry, white pepper
and energizing mineral notes along with impeccable balance and finesse. Its very elegant, with firm
but supple tannins and still-nervous acidity. Give
it time to unwind and develop complexity. Drink
20162038. Vision Wine & Spirits. Cellar Selection. K.O.
abv: 13%
Price: $199
Fess Parker 2012 Ashleys Chardonnay (Sta.

Rita Hills). This brilliant wine is dry and
tart in acidity, minerally, and supremely refined
in Meyer lemons, pears, limes and tart apples. Its
not one of those fat Chardonnays that melts in the
mouth, but instead has firm texture and elegant
complexity. It makes a beautiful accompaniment to
grilled salmon, crab cakes, or a simple but glorious
roasted chicken. Dont drink it too cold. Editors
Choice. S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $37
94
Lachini 2011 La Cruz Vineyard Pinot Noir

(Sonoma Coast). This Pinot seems to float
weightlessly on the palate, yet the flavors sink in
instantly and dazzle. Suggestions of raspberries and
red cherries come spiced in white pepper and cinnamon, with richer levels of Dr. Pepper cola, mocha
and red licorice, all highlighted with the most perfect acidity. Its easy to fall in love with this wine
and drink it now, but it can develop interesting
complexities through 2020. The winery is Oregonbased and has a good history with Willamette Valley
Pinot Noir. S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $50
WINEMAG.COM | 71
BUYINGGUIDE
94
Lineage 2010 Red Wine (Livermore Valley).

This is Steven Kents fourth vintage of Lineage, his blockbuster Bordeaux red from carefully
tended Livermore fruit. Predominantly Cabernet
Sauvignon (65%), it includes 16% Cab Franc, 15%
Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot and 2% Malbec. Layered in
coffee and herbal cassis, and finely structured, it is
an elegant, herbal-kissed, slightly coy wine, enjoyable now with a big meal or ready to sleep in bottle
until 20242029. Cellar Selection. V.B.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $145
94
Loring Wine Company 2012 Clos Pepe Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Theres a
subtle difference between this Pinot and Lorings
eight other vineyard-designated 2012 Pinots. But
by a hair, this is the best and most compelling, delicious in blackberries, blueberries and cherries. Its
hard not to drink the entire bottle now, with its tantalizing acidity and soft but intricate tannins. And
yet this gorgeous wine will develop bottle complexity until 2020 or 2021. The vineyard is in the sweet
spot of the Santa Rita Hills. S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $50
94
Marchesi Antinori 2010 Guado al Tasso (Bolgheri Superiore). Antinoris blend of 55%
Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc creates a vibrant, structured wine that
shows tension and energy. It opens with aromas of
black cherry, black currant, dark spices and leather
that carry through to the palate alongside firm but
refined tannins and vibrant freshness. It already has
nice depth but give it time to develop complexity.
Drink 20152030. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. Cellar Selection. K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $110
93
Barrister 2011 Merlot (Walla Walla Valley). A

high water mark for Barrister, this ripe and
lush Merlot is sourced from the Dwelley vineyard.
Chunky berry and cassis fruit is soaked in delicious
baking spices, vanilla and chocolate. Theres nothing shy here, but it is thoroughly enjoyable. Editors
Choice. P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $29
93
Duckhorn 2009 The Discussion (Napa Valley). Even at more than four years of age,
this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit
Verdot remains huge in primary cherry, blackberry,
cassis and chocolate flavors. The tough, astringent
tannins make it essentially undrinkable now. Yet
its underling wholesomeness and balance guarantee development through 2021, and possibly longer.
Cellar Selection. S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $125
93
Blue Hall Vineyard 2009 Camiana Cabernet

Sauvignon (Howell Mountain). Blue Halls
Camiana bottling of Cabernet is coming off a string
of successful vintages, and this 09 is right up there.
Youd hardly know the wine is already more than
four years old, its so fresh and fruity in blackberries, cherries, dark chocolate and cassis. This 100%
Cab also is quite tannic, in the Howell Mountain
way. Begin popping the cork in 2019, and the wine
could still be amazing in the late 2020s. Cellar Selection. S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $75
93
Fess Parker 2012 Bien Nacido Vineyard

Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). This fascinating Chardonnay combines elegance with the
opulence you expect from California. Its ripe and
forward in papaya, quince, mango, pear and pineapple fruits, but also shows a steely minerality thats
as fresh and pure as snowmelt water in a pebbly
stream. It is never forward or over-the-top. Editors
Choice. S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $37
93
Cameron Hughes 2011 Lot 451 Cabernet

Sauvignon (Coombsville). Coombsville has
emerged as the hottest appellation in Napa Valley,
and Cameron Hughes is right there, doing his negociant thing. The Cabernet was blended with Malbec
and Merlot, and the wine is fantastically satisfying.
Its rich, sturdy tannins frame elaborate blackberry,
blueberry, red currant and smoky oak flavors that
are wonderfully complex, with an elegant, balanced
finish. This is an unbelievable price for a Cabernet
of this high quality. Editors Choice. S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $27
93
Jarvis 2012 Finch Hollow Estate Grown Chardonnay (Napa Valley). Jarvis has assembled
a great record with this bottling over the years. The
2012 fulfills all the basic California requirements
for impressive Chardonnay, with ripe, flamboyant
tropical fruit, pear and pineapple flavors, along with
lots of sweet, buttery, vanilla-accented oak. This is
one of the most decadent Chardonnays of the vintage, and while its a little soft, it is flashy. S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $115
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90
MacPhail 2011 Sundawg Vineyard Pinot Noir

(Green Valley). The Sequana Winery has had
enormous success with this vineyard over the years,
and now MacPhail dips into it, with impressive results. The first impression is of acidity, mouthwatering and tangy. Then the flavors explode into a
rainbow of red cherries, pomegranates, persimmons
and exotic spices. It will develop bottle complexity
through at least 2021. Cellar Selection. S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $49
Pepper Bridge 2011 Seven Hills Vineyard

(Walla Walla Valley). Aromatic with crushed
rock, raspberry, cranberry and hints of clove, this
well-structured wine53% Cabernet Sauvignon,
16% Merlot, 21% Cabernet Franc and 10% Petit Verdotwill reward additional bottle age. The
young, tart red fruits are steely and precise, the barrel influence perfectly balanced against the natural
acidity. Cellar Selection. P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $60
Sequum 2010 Four Soil Melange Cabernet

Sauvignon (Napa Valley). The four soils
designation refers to the wines origins in different
vineyards throughout the valley. A great followup
to the marvelous 2009, the wine showcases artful
blending. Its incredibly rich and ripe in black currants, cassis liqueur and smoky oak, yet balanced
in acids and tannins. Drink now and through 2022.
S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $55
Sequum 2009 Kidd Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). The vintage was a good
one for Sequum, which is assembling an impressive
track record. The wine is dry and tannic, yet wonderfully forward in blackberries and black currants,
and the oak application is perfect. Give it until 2020
or so in the cellar. Cellar Selection. S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $62
SignoSeis 2011 The Angel Oak Reserva Malbec (Valle de Uco). Rich, loamy and ripe
smelling, this wine opens in fine form, with accents
of raisin, cassis and ink. The mouthfeel is deep and
balanced, while flavors of toasty blackberry, cassis
and chocolate are ripe and modern. Finishing notes
of coffee, licorice, blackened toast and pepper bring
a dark side to this long-lasting, deeply etched Malbec. Drink through 2018. Argentinean Wines, LLC.
Editors Choice. M.S.
abv: 15.3%
Price: $50
Barrister 2010 Bacchus Vineyard Cabernet

Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). These Bacchus Cabernet vines were planted in 1972, and add
old vine elegance to what is a dark, roasty-toasty
wine redolent with new barrel scents and accents.
Espresso, smoke and charred wood come out first,
but the blueberry, black cherry and deep cassis fruit
carries the wine through a long, supple finish. Editors Choice. P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $31
Black Stallion 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon

(Napa Valley). Heres another fantastic value from Black Stallion, which has an uncanny ability to produce Cabernets of great depth and charm
that can stand against more expensive wines. This
2011 is dry, full-bodied and rich in flavors of black
currants. It might even age, but theres no reason
not to enjoy it now. Editors Choice. S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $28

Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This is a seriously
good Cabernet, and the price makes it a relative
bargain. Dry and tannic, it has complex flavors of
blackberries, black currants, blueberries and plenty
of new smoky oak. A tangy minerality lifts it above
the ordinary. It will hold in the bottle until at least
2020. Editors Choice. S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $27
Cameron Hughes 2012 Lot 505 Pinot Noir

(Sta. Rita Hills). You wont find many Santa
Rita Hills Pinots this good, at this price. The wine
is rich in leather-scented black cherries, pomegranates and cola, with sandalwood and exotic spice
notes that linger into a long finish. Give it some time
to breathe. Editors Choice. S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $25
WINEMAG.COM | 73
BUYINGGUIDE
92
Dutton-Goldeld 2012 Dutton Ranch Pinot

Noir (Russian River Valley). This is the winerys first Pinot of the vintage. Hence its a preview
of their 2012s to come, and what promise it holds.
The acidity is high and the alcohol is low, making for
an elegant mouthfeel. But whats especially pleasurable are the deep flavors of black cherries, blueberries, red currants and sandalwood. The wine is fine to
drink now, and should hold in the bottle until 2022.
What a superb barbecued steak pairing. S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $40
92
Krutz 2012 Magnolia Series Zinfandel (Napa

Valley). This terrific Zin brings classic varietal character to the table, with a full body, robust alcohol, dryness and intensely concentrated
flavors of blackberry, black currant, dark chocolate,
Chinese plum sauce and black pepper. Showing a
mastery of the art of blending, its grapes come from
north to south in the valley, Calistoga to Atlas Peak
and multiple appellations in between. This is one
of the greatest Zinfandel values in recent memory.
Editors Choice. S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $24
92
Loring Wine Company 2012 Rosellas Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands).
A wonderful minerality, like a lick of cold granite,
grounds and complicates this Chardonnay. Without that stoniness, it would be just another tropical fruit and oaky Chard, good and dry and tart, but
mainstream. Yet that taste of terroir lifts it above
the ordinary. Dont drink it too cold, and decant it if
you can for an hour or two. S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
92
MacPhail 2011 Gaps Crown Vineyard Pinot

Noir (Sonoma Coast). The vineyard has been
a fine one over the years for MacPhail and numerous other wineries. This 11 is dry, delicate and
rich. With plenty of new oak providing smoky wood
notes, the underlying raspberries and cherries have
a roasted edge. Enjoyable now, it will gain traction
through 2020. Cellar Selection. S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $49
92
MacPhail 2011 Sangiacomo Vineyard Pinot

Noir (Sonoma Coast). This polished, savory Pinot successfully navigated the difficult 2011
vintage, coming out ripe and clean. Vibrant acidity
accompanies raspberry, rhubarb and persimmon
flavors, while new French oak brings a rich jacket
of buttered toast. With refreshingly low alcohol, the
wine will age well. Drink now2019. Cellar Selection. S.H.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $49
92
MacPhail 2011 Pratt Vineyard Pinot Noir

(Sonoma Coast). Because of the relatively
low alcohol, this Pinot has a refreshingly delicate
mouthfeel. Its also tart in acidity, giving the flavors
a bright bite. And those flavors are dazzling, suggesting sour red cherry candy, ripe Christmas persimmons and cranberry preserves. Such a pretty
wine, and it will age well through at least 2020.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $49
92
Marchesi Antinori 2009 Pian delle Vigne

(Brunello di Montalcino). This structured
wine opens with aromas of black fruit, underbrush,
mint and spice with an earthy touch of saddle leather. The juicy palate delivers a core of black cherry
accented with notes of thyme, sage, espresso and
mocha supported by a tannic backbone. Its well
balanced, with enough freshness to ensure it will
develop complexity over the next few years. Ste.
Michelle Wine Estates. K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $75
92
MacPhail 2011 Ritas Crown Vineyard Pinot

Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). The fruit on this Pinot
Noir is flashier than anything that MacPhail has produced in their Sonoma County Pinots. That likely is
due to the long hangtime of the Santa Rita Hills. The
grapes got enormously ripe and rich in raspberries
and cherries, and the wine would be a simple fruit
bomb were it not for the excellent structure and a
certain tangy minerality that will help it age through
2020 to 2022. Cellar Selection. S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $49
92
Marimar Estate 2010 Don Miguel Vineyard

Earthquake Block Unltered Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Although the tannins give this
wine a hard astringency, they cant mask the richness of the fruit. Once you get used to the tannins,
you find a blast of cherry and blackberry jam fruit.
This is a wine to put in the cellar until 2018. Cellar
Selection. S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $52
91
92
Sequum 2011 Kidd Ranch Zinfandel (Napa

Valley). The vineyard is on the St. Helena
floor, a warm area that helped the grapes ripen even
in this cold vintage. The wine itself is dry, full-bodied, tannic and exceptionally pure in black currants,
black licorice and black pepper, with great acidity
and a lingering finish. Editors Choice. S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $38
91
Duckhorn 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa

Valley). Hard tannins make this wine difficult
to approach now, as they usually do for young Duckhorn Cabs. But its quite a success for the chilly 2010
vintage, showing lush blackberry and cherry fruits and
fine acidity. As tough as the tannins are, theyre well
structured, a strong suggestion that the wine, which
includes Merlot, should have an easy time aging.
Start drinking it in 2016. Cellar Selection. S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $70
Galerie 2012 Naissance Sauvignon Blanc

(Napa Valley). Blended from vineyards ranging from Pope Valley to St. Helena, the wine was
aged in neutral oak. It shows classic varietal notes
of citrus fruits, gooseberries and lemongrass, with
riper suggestions of white peaches. Low alcohol and
brisk acidity results in a clean, savory wine. Editors
Choice. S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $30
92
TintoNegro 2012 1955 Vineyard Estate

Grown Malbec (Mendoza). Bold blackberry
and cassis aromas are inviting, dense and come with
notes of moss and earth. The wine is wavy, smooth
and rich in the mouth, with flavors of wild berry,
cassis, chocolate and creamy oak. Long and full, the
finish conveys structure and a sense of class. Drink
through 2018. Vineyard Brands. M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $100
91
DaMa 2012 Chardonnay (Columbia Valley).

The 2011 and 2012 Chardonnays from DaMa
are a study in contrasts, showing how very different
the vintages were. Both come from Sagemoor and
Conner Lee grapes, but in 2012 the wine has more
floral highlights, and a vertical crispness to its structure. Flavors of anise, green apple and pear are wound
up in the tight frame, and this would appear to have
some years of life ahead. Editors Choice. P.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $21
91
91
91
91
Elsom Cellars 2009 Red Wine (Columbia

Valley). Interesting highlights of English
Breakfast tea and toasted grains complement the
strawberry fruit in this blend of 46% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 46% Malbec and 8% Syrah. Layered
and complex, it shows pleasing hints of lightly composted earth. P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $36
Galerie 2012 Equitem Sauvignon Blanc

(Knights Valley). This is one of the richer Sauvignon Blancs out there. Aged in neutral
oak which brings a touch of buttery toastiness, it
also was stirred regularly on the lees. That adds a
creaminess thats integral to your enjoyment of the
lemongrass, peach, kumquat and gooseberry flavors.
The acidity is refreshing, making this a distinctive,
delicious white wine. Editors Choice. S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $30
Kirkland Signature 2011 Series Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). This is a good price for a
Cabernet this rich and satisfying. Its dry, tannic
and opulent in blackberries, black currants and mocha, with a complex note of green olives. Its fully
ready to drink now. Editors Choice. S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
Portia 2010 Triennia de Bodegas Portia Roble

(Ribera del Duero). This is an earthy, ripe
number. The nose is deep and dense, with aromas
of prune, raisin, pastry and vanilla. The mouthfeel
is lifted by acidity but overall this feels dense and
heavy, with strong but controlled tannins. Flavors
of lemony resin, loamy black fruits, molasses and
spice finish smooth, long and under control. Drink
through 2020. Palm Bay International. M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $75
WINEMAG.COM | 75
BUYINGGUIDE
91
Red Tail Ridge 2012 RTR Estate Vineyard Riesling (Finger Lakes). Intensely floral on the
nose, this slightly off-dry Riesling is concentrated,
with juicy citrus and stone fruit flavors. Hints of wax
and fresh herb add complexity to the midpalate, along
with a honed, steely minerality that carries through
the long and dry fiunish. Editors Choice. A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $16
91
Salentein 2011 Numina Spirit Vineyard Gran

Corte (Uco Valley). Blackberry, dark plum,
ink, coffee and graphite aromas comprise a ripe,
clean, Bordeaux-esque bouquet. This five-grape
blend is grabby and tannic but just elegant enough.
Flavors of prune, blackberry and chocolate cake
precede a dark, toasty, oaky finish thats solid in
feel. Drink through 2018. Palm Bay International.
Cellar Selection. M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $41
91
TintoNegro 2012 Finca la Escuela Estate

Grown Malbec (Mendoza). Berry, plum and
raw oak are common aromas for a young, high-end
Malbec from Mendoza. This has bright acidity to go
with extracted berry power, while flavors of jammy
black fruits, baking spices and chocolate offer intricacies like nutmeg and anise on the finish. Drink
through 2019. Vineyard Brands. M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $50
90
Bodegas Valdemar 2007 Conde de Valdemar

Reserva (Rioja). This is a textbook traditional Rioja, with dry spice, earth, light herbal notes
and leather on the nose alongside cherry and plum
scents. The palate is crisp, elegant and pure, with
raspberry, vanilla, plum and leathery flavors. Modest complexity and elegance rise up on the finish.
Drink through 2018. CIV/USA. M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $24
90
Brancaia 2010 Ilatraia (Maremma Toscana).

A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, this brings forth earthy
aromas of tilled soil, ripe black berries, plum and a
touch of leather. The ripe palate offers fleshy black
cherry and blackberry accented by cinnamon and
white pepper notes, all alongside soft, round tannins. Its ready, so enjoy soon. E&J Gallo. K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $60
90
En Garde 2012 Ros (California). This exceptionally dry Ros is blended from Pinot Noir, Tempranillo, Malbec, Petite Sirah, Petit
Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Snap this one up
while you can, since only 142 cases were made. Delicate and structured, it exudes wild strawberry and
a hint of mint, flavors that stretch through the midpalate well into the finish. V.B.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $24
90
Gordon Estate 2013 Estate Grown Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). Quick out of the
chute, this 2013, estate grown Chardonnay is a
winner. Clean apple, apricot and papaya fruit is set
against balancing acidity, with a brisk minerality.
Instantly accessible, it should drink well through
2017. Editors Choice. P.G.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $17
90
90

Sauvignon (Oakville). Blackberry, black
currant, cassis, blueberry, dark chocolate and oak
flavors mark this dry, tannic Cabernet. It show sreal
Oakville character, at a good price. Gets better and
better as it breathes in the glass. Drink now2015.
S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $25
MacPhail 2012 Chardonnay (Sonoma

Coast). Although the label doesnt say so,
the wine comes from the Gaps Crown vineyard.
What differentiates it from the vineyard-designated
bottling, to be released in 2015, is that the oak is
minimal, allowing the fruit to shine. With mouthwatering acidity, it brims with pineapple, butterscotch, vanilla and roasted almond flavors that finish delicious and long. S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
90
Peter Cellars 2010 Syrah (Sonoma Valley).

The grilled portobello, roasted meat-bone
taste to this wine suggests pairing it with beef stew
and mushrooms. The wine also is rich in spicy wild
blackberries, fresh-picked and ripe under the summer sun, but the finish is dry and firm in tannins.
Editors Choice. S.H.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $29
90
Rodney Strong 2012 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This food-friendly Pinot Noir has
a light body, dryness and crisp acidity that make it
easy to pair with steaks, chops, salmon, mushroom
risotto and similar fare. Theres nothing shy, however, about the flavors, which brim with ripe raspberries, cherries and pomegranates, accented with
toasty, spicy oak. Drink now2017. S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
90
Red Tail Ridge 2012 RTR Vineyard Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). Lusciously ripe peach
and nectarine on the nose of this Riesling belie a
palate thats remarkably herbal, elegant and dry. Its
concentrated, with flavors of apple skin and citrus,
and finishes long, with refreshing tea-leaf astringency. Editors Choice. A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $19
90
Rodney Strong 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon

(Alexander Valley). If youre looking for a
flashy, complex Cabernet to drink now and for the
next few years, try this one. Its rich and ripe in
black currants, plums and toasty oak, with refined
tannins and a full body that finishes dry and satisfying. Editors Choice. S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $28
88
Martn Cdax 2012 Albario (Ras Baixas).

Equal parts lemon blossom, minerality,
peach and sea foam drive the nose of this Galician
white toward a round, wide-bodied palate. Flavors
of oyster shell, saline, nectarine and apple are all
proper and pleasant, while saline and minerality
control the finish. Martn Cdax USA. M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
88
89
LangeTwins 2012 Estate Grown Musqu

Clone Sauvignon Blanc (Lodi). Offering aromas of sweet peach, this is a round, full Sauvignon
Blanc with a pleasant texture. Light in alcohol but
rich on the finish, it just begs for shellfish or melted
goat cheese salad. V.B.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $15
88
Macari 2010 Bergen Road (North Fork of

Long Island). Notes of vanilla, cinnamon
and chocolate lend spice and warmth to the ripe redcherry flavor of this Merlot-based Bordeaux blend.
Its unabashedly bold in style with big, chunky tannins and rich, supple fruit, but has enough structure to develop improve further through 2019. Cellar Selection. A.I.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $46
Murphy-Goode 2012 The Fum Sauvignon

Blanc (North Coast). This is a good value
for such a creamy, well-made wine, bright in citrus
and tropical fruit. Textured and linear, with a clear
beginning and end, itll go nicely with oysters or
goat cheese. The 7% Smillon blended in adds floral
highlights. V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
BEST BUYS
90
Cameron Hughes 2012 Lot 429 Old Vine Zinfandel (Sonoma Valley). Great price for a
Zin so classic in Sonoma personality. While its totally dry, high alcohol gives it an edge of glyceriney
sweetness thats a nice accompaniment to the briary blackberry, boysenberry and spice flavors. Grill
some ribs or chicken, liberally slather with barbecue sauce and enjoy. Best Buy. S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $14
WINEMAG.COM | 77
BUYINGGUIDE
BEST BUYS
90
Colters Creek 2011 Syrah (Snake River Valley). Blended with 10% Mourvdre and 5%
Viognier, this is an impressive offering with notes
of smoke, vanilla, spice, and smoked meat. Its light
in style, silky soft in feel without an ounce of extra
alcoholic fat to weigh it down. Best Buy. S.S.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $13
BEST BUYS
BEST BUYS
89
88
89
88
89
88
HandCraft 2012 Artisan Collection Pinot Noir

(California). Looking for a bargain in a good,
coastal Pinot Noir? This one is silky, crisp in acidity and pleasurably rich in raspberries, cranberries
and herb tea flavors, sweetened with a little brown
sugar. Best Buy. S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
HandCraft 2012 Artisan Collection Chardonnay (California). This is a seriously good

Chardonnay, given its California appellation. But
then, the Delicato family has superb grape sources.
Its rich and ripe in tropical fruit, orange, honey, vanilla and buttered toast flavors, balanced with crisp
acidity. Production is an easy-to-find 12,000 cases.
Best Buy. S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
89
Finca El Origen 2012 Reserva Malbec (Uco

Valley). Toasty, smoky black-fruit aromas
come with a fair amount of density and char. This
is plush but balanced, with blackberry, blueberry
and toasty oak flavors. A solid but quick finish isnt
complex but it does confirm the wines quality. The
wine is 85% Malbec with the remainder Bonarda,
Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Carolina Wine
Brands USA. Best Buy. M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $12
89
Franois Lurton 2012 Piedra Negra Alta Coleccin Malbec (Mendoza). Spicy, briary
berry and leather aromas are full and firm. On the
palate, this feels fresh, with good body and depth.
Flavors of black plum, blackberry and black currant
are spicy but not pushy, while the finish is not overly oaky or heavy. Atlas Imports. Best Buy. M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
Pacic Rim 2012 Dry Riesling (Columbia Valley). Penetrating aromas suggest lemon oil
and citrus blossom, with a hint of terpene. This is
the driest version of this wine to date, with residual
sugar down around 0.5%. Pear skin, pear flesh and
citrus carry it through a lengthy finish. Best Buy.
P.G.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
Pacic Rim 2012 Sweet Riesling (Columbia

Valley). Sweet but not too sweet for some
entres, such as spicy Thai food, this brings a fruity
mix of pear, pineapple and orange-creamsickle flavors. Its smooth and soft, not at all sugary, and
framed with fresh acids. Best Buy. P.G.
abv: 8.5%
Price: $10
Pacic Rim 2012 Riesling (Columbia Valley).

A solid effort, in the mainstream style that
youll find on many restaurant-chain wine lists.
Apricot jellynot jamflavors carry through all the
way, with a clean, crisp, well-balanced finish. The
residual sugar is just under 30 g/L. Best Buy. P.G.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $10
Trapiche 2012 Oak Cask Malbec (Mendoza).

Dusty dark-fruit aromas are lusty and full
of oaky notes including sawdust and chocolate. This
value-priced winner is full, round, saturated and
generous on the palate, where savory, resiny blackfruit flavors finish woody in flavor and firm in feel.
The Wine Group. Best Buy. M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $10
BEST BUYS
87
Bota Box 2012 Shiraz (California). Delicious

and easy to drink, the wine carries rich, ripe
flavors of raspberries, strawberries, cherries, brown
sugar, vanilla and toast. At the equivalent of $5.75
for a regular bottle, its a great value. Best Buy.
S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $23/3 L
BEST BUYS
85
J. Garcia Carrion 2012 pera Prima Shiraz (La

Mancha). While this isnt easy to identify as
Shiraz, it still qualifies as a good, everyday red wine.
Rubbery berry aromas come with a pinch of spearmint, while the palate feels juicy and racy. Berry and
mild oak flavors finish with a chocolate note and a
rubbery accent. CIV/USA. Best Buy. M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $7
BEST BUYS
84
Bota Box 2012 Old Vine Zinfandel (California). This is a very Zinny Zin. Its dry, fullbodied and, most of all, the wild cherry, licorice and
cured tobacco flavors have a spicy, black pepper finish. Best Buy. S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $23/3 L
84
86
Acorden 2011 Malbec (Tupungato). Candied cherry aromas are mildly rubbery and
suggestive of nail polish. On the palate, this Malbec
feels round, fair and balanced. Flavors of pasty fruit
and oak accent red-fruit notes. Freixenet USA. Best
Buy. M.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $9
86
Conquista 2012 Malbec (Mendoza). Mild,

almost neutral aromas of cherry and herbs
require some digging to discern. Medium in weight
and concentration, it has flavors of red fruits that
are fresh but basic. Raspberry notes carrry the finish to a quiet conclusion. Prestige Wine Group. Best
Buy. M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $9
85
Kirkland Signature 2011 Mdoc. A full and

ripe wine, it is richly layered with black
fruits, soft tannins and a juicy, warm aftertaste. The
acidity at the end adds a little freshness. Its made
to be drunk now. Misa Imports. Best Buy. R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $9
84
Bota Box 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). This gets the Cabernet basics done,
with ripe, jammy blackberry and cherry flavors,
full-bodied tannins and a dry, spicy finish. Its a
good everyday Cab, and the bag-in-box packaging
means you dont have to rush to finish it. Best Buy.
S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $23/3 L
Bota Box 2012 RedVolution (California).

Marked by forward flavors of raspberries,
strawberries, cherries and brown sugar, this blend
is easy to drink. It has good acidity, and finishes
clean and off dry. Best Buy. S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $23/3 L
SPIRITS
95
Reserva Tequila Partida Blanco (Mexico; Partida Tequila, San Francisco, CA). This elegant
blanco features gentle floral notes, agave sweetness
and a refreshing touch of minerality, finishing crisp
and peppery. Shows surprising finesse for an unaged Tequila.
abv: 40%
Price: $40
WINEMAG.COM | 79
BUYINGGUIDE
SPIRITS
91
Bolsignano 2009 Grazia (Brunello di Montalcino). This earthy wine opens with aromas
of meat juices, baking spices and black fruit together with notes of leather and balsam. The rich palate
delivers dark red cherry layered with mint and a tad
of milk chocolate alongside dusty tannins. It well
balanced and should age moderately well. Drink
20162024. K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
91
91
Tequila Platinum Baron Blanco (Mexico; MHW,

Manhasset, NY). Mellow and sweet, this silky
blanco is full of mint and other fresh herb flavors,
balanced by a rounded vanilla note that veers into
cookie-dough sweetness and finishes with a sprinkle of baking spice. Hefty, gift-worthy bottle embellished with two dragons flanking an agave plant.
abv: 40%
Price: $55
CORRECTION
On page 37 of the March 2014 issue, the Lapostolle
2010 Cuve Alexandre Carmenre was listed with a
score of 90 points. The correct score for this wine
is 91 points.
IN NEXT MONTHS
ISSUE
CHAMPAGNE FOR ALL
SUMMERS CELEBRATORY OCCASIONS CALL FOR
THE BEST BUBBLY YOU CAN AFFORD. GET OUR
PICKS IN EACH PRICE TIER.
COMPLETE GUIDE TO CHILI
THESE WINE-FRIENDLY RECIPES WILL CHANGE
THE WAY YOU SEE THIS PERENNIAL FAVORITE.
PLUS, THE RIGHT WAY TO MAKE AND SERVE IT.
THE MUSIC ISSUE
THESE POPULAR MUSICIANS ARE INTO WINE.
LEARN ALL ABOUT THEM AND THEIR VINOUS
OBSESSIONS.
Capanna 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Classically crafted, it opens with a fruit-driven fragrance of bright red berries accented with whiffs of
cooking spices and balsamic herbs. The juicy palate
delivers fleshy black cherry, black raspberry, black
pepper and exotic spices alongside big, velvety tannins. Soft and delicious, this is already accessible
so enjoy over the next few years. Masciarelli Wine
Co. K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $55
91
Caprili 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. One

of Montalcinos unsung heroes, this estate
delivers a great wine from a challenging vintage.
It opens with aromas of underbrush, white mushroom, tobacco, blue flower and woodland berries.
The dense, structured palate offers dark cherry accented with clove and black pepper alongside big,
brooding tannins. Drink 20152021. Multiple U.S.
importers. Editors Choice. K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $43
91
Citille di Sopra 2009 Brunello di Montalcino.

A hearty Brunello, it opens with aromas that
recall meat juices, leather, mature black fruit cooking spices and turned earth. The juicy palate offers ripe black cherry accented with notes of black
pepper, raspberry and lemon thyme with a hint of
creamy vanilla. Its velvety soft and already accessible so enjoy soon. Superior Wines . K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $65
91
Donatella Cinelli Colombini 2009 Brunello di

Montalcino. Underbrush aromas, mushroom,
black berries, fennel, leather and tobacco aromas
take center stage on this structured wine. The palate delivers rich black cherry, menthol, white pepper, vanilla and mocha alongside firm, dusty tannins. It already has depth but hold for complexity.
Drink 20162021. Banville Wine Merchants. K.O.
abv: NA
Price: $60
91
Gianni Brunelli 2009 Brunello di Montalcino.

This wine opens with aromas of ripe black
fruit, earth, leather and a balsamic note. The juicy
palate delivers fleshy black cherry, fruit, licorice
and menthol accented with hints of Mediterranean herbs alongside big, round tannins. Drink
20152021. de Grazia Imports LLC. Editors Choice.
K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $67
91
Il Valentiano 2009 Campo di Marzo (Brunello

di Montalcino). Focused and balanced, it
opens with a fragrance recalling ripe berries, wet
soil, red rose, blue flower and baking spices. The
spicy palate delivers wild cherry, cinnamon-spice,

white pepper, hot red pepper and a mineral note
alongside brooding tannins and just enough fresh
acidity. Drink 20162021. Vidalco International,
LLC. K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
91
La Fiorita 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. This

bold wine begins with aromas of berry, spice,
violet, leather and a hint of meat juices. The juicy
palate offers wild cherry accented with cinnamonspice, white pepper and hints of mocha alongside
solid tannins and the warmth of alcohol. Give this
time to unwind and develop more depth and complexity. Multiple U.S. importers. K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
91
Sesta di Sopra 2009 Brunello di Montalcino.

At first the nose is a bit closed, but the wine
then opens to reveal lovely, subdued floral notes of
blue flower along with red fruit and spice. The juicy
palate delivers ripe red and black berries accented
with clove, white pepper and sage supported by
solid tannins. Still tightly tannic so give this time to
unwind. Drink 20162021. Premier Wine Co. K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $70
90
Armilla 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. A

delicious, traditionally styled Brunello, it
leads with aromas of meat juices, black plum, black
berries and grilled Mediterranean herbs. The forward palate delivers juicy black cherry accented
with cinnamon-spice, plum cake and a hint of vanilla alongside big, round tannins. It has nice depth
and, reflecting the vintage, its already very accessible. Omniwines Distribution. K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $62
90
Canalicchio di Sopra 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Opening aromas recall underbrush,

red berry, white mushroom, truffle and thyme with
a whiff of leather. The palate offers restrained wild
cherry accented with white pepper, mint and sage
alongside tightly knit tannins. While the tannins
need to unwind, this wine isnt made for longterm cellaring. Drink 20152019. Vinifera Imports.
K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $57
90
Castello Ban 2009 Poggio alle Mura

(Brunello di Montalcino). A ripe Brunello, it
has aromas of wild cherry, plum and spice together
with whiffs of blue flower and leather. The palate
offers fleshy black cherry accented with white pepper and chocolate alongside big, round tannins. Its
fast approaching its ideal drinking window so enjoy
20142019. Banfi Vintners. K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $85
90
Conti Costanti 2009 Brunello di Montalcino.

This wine shows real depth, beginning with
earthy aromas of underbrush, ripe berried fruit,
blue flower and smidge of leather. The palate offers a core of black cherry accented with notes of
baking spices and a hint of truffle alongside a solid
tannic backbone and nervous acidity that restrains
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BUYINGGUIDE
the berry richness. Drink 20162024. Empson USA
Ltd. K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
more years in bottle to fully develop. Drink 2016

2020. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
90
90
Corte dei Venti 2009 Brunello di Montalcino.

This earthy Brunello leads with aromas
of underbrush, mushroom, bay leaf, cherry and
Mediterranean herbs. The palate offers juicy black
cherry and ripe raspberry punctuated with cinnamon-spice, vanilla, mocha and licorice alongside
smoothed but fleeting tannins. Its nicely crafted
and boasts decent freshness for the vintage. Superior Wines. K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $26
90
Crocedimezzo 2009 Brunello di Montalcino.

This gem of an estate delivered a smooth
and vibrant 2009 Brunello. It boasts aromas of
chocolate-covered cherries accented with truffle,
leather, mint and balsamic notes that all carry over
to the palate alongside mocha on the back. The juicy
fruit is supported by just enough fresh acidity and
bracing tannins. Aventine Hill LLC. Editors Choice.
K.O.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $48
90
Domus Vitae 2009 Brunello di Montalcino.

This small Brunello estate has a bright
future. Their 2009 boasts a pretty floral fragrance
with fruity undertones, hints of leather and tilled
earth along with a toasted note. The forward palate
reflects the hot, dry vintage. It delivers sweet and
fleshy black cherry accented with cinnamon-spice
supported by soft but persistent tannins and just
enough acidity to give energy. Drink now2019. Superior Wines. K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
90
Donna Olga 2009 Brunello di Montalcino.

Intense underbrush aromas, black berries
and baking spices lead the nose on this wine. The
dense palate offers up juicy wild cherry, black pepper and cinnamon-spice alongside solid but velvety
tannins. Its well balanced and already shows depth
but hold for complexity. Drink 20162021. Soilair
Selection. K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
90
Donna Olga 2009 Le Cacce (Brunello di Montalcino). Starting with red and black berry
aromas, the wine is accented with underbrush and
tobacco notes. The palate delivers fleshy black
cherry, cinnamon, white pepper, mint and balsamic
notes alongside firm tannins that last through to the
finish. Hold for complexity. Drink 20162021. Soilair Selection. K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $79
90
Fattoria La Lecciaia 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Opening aromas include forest

floor, red berries, cooking spices and Mediterranean
herbs. The juicy palate shows bright red berries,
mint and thyme accented with notes of white pepper. Its well balanced but will benefit with a few
Il Poggione 2009 Brunello di Montalcino.

This forward Brunello opens with a fruit
and spice fragrance of ripe black berries, cinnamon
and hot red pepper. The dense palate delivers fleshy
black cherry, ripe black raspberry, black pepper and
cake spices alongside dusty tannins. Terlato Wines
International. K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $85
90
La Gerla 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Aromas recall pine forest, balsam, black berries, sandalwood and menthol. The palate delivers
rich red and black cherry layered with black pepper,
toast and chocolate alongside bracing, teeth-coating
tannins. Multiple U.S. importers. K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
90
Le Chiuse 2009 Brunello di Montalcino.

Made from organically farmed grapes, it
starts with aromas of mature black fruit, turned
soil, blue flower and spice. The succulent palate
delivers fleshy black cherry accented with notes
of vanilla, Mediterranean herbs and cinnamonspice alongside fine but tightly-knit tannins. Drink
20152021. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Editors Choice. K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
estate are guided by famed Sangiovese expert

Maurizio Castelli whose experience shines through
in this classically crafted Brunello. It opens with
aromas of plum cake, clove, licorice and hints of
toast and espresso. The palate offers fleshy black
cherry layered with mocha, tobacco, black pepper
and Mediterranean herbs alongside velvety tannins.
Drink 20162021. de Grazia Imports LLC. K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $60
90
San Lorenzo 2009 Bramante (Brunello di

Montalcino). Dark berry and baking spice
aromas emerge from the glass and carry over to the
juicy palate together with fleshy wild cherry, plum,
black pepper, cinnamon and vanilla alongside big
round tannins. Well balanced with great length,
this poised wine already is accessible, so drink
20152019. Total Wine & More. K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $50
90
San Polino 2009 Brunello di Montalcino.

This Brunello opens with a floral and fruit
fragrance of red rose, wisteria and berry. The floral
sensation continues on the juicy palate along with
ripe black cherry, raspberry, and white pepper. It
has firm, round tannins and is already accessible so
enjoy soon. T. Edward Wines Ltd. K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $69
90
Le Potazzine 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. It

opens with a fragrance that recalls mature
black plum, wet soil, underbrush, balsamic herbs
and a whiff of leather. The ripe palate delivers juicy
black cherry accented with black pepper and thyme
alongside bracing tannins. De Grazia Imports, Michael Skurnik Wines. K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $93
Tenuta di Sesta 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Although the color is an evolved garnet
with brick edges, this wine offers a fresh nose of
blue flower, gingerbread and ripe cherry with hints
of toast and clove. The palate is evolved but still
delivers ripe red cherry, vanilla and espresso along
with smoothed tannins and soft acidity. Not much
complexity and even though its forward, its also
balanced. Drink through 2019. Monsieur Touton
Selection Ltd. K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $90
90
90
90
90
90
Padelletti 2009 Brunello di Montalcino.

Hailing from the northern part of the growing zone, it leads with aromas of ripe black fruit,
tilled soil, saddle leather and truffle mingled with
hints of balsamic herbs. The palate delivers layers
of dark cherry, mint, sage and mineral alongside
firm tannins. Despite the forward vintage this is a
bit austere but should soften up soon. Drink 2015
2021. Holiday Beverage. K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $80
Podere Brizio 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Floral, earthy fragrances recall red
rose, tilled soil, red berries, spice and leather. The
mouthwatering plate offers succulent black cherry
accented with licorice, white pepper and balsamic
herbs alongside firm but round tannins. Ready and
very enjoyable now, this an approachable Brunello
with some intensity. A Marc de Grazia selection;
various American importers. K.O.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
90
Podere Scopetone 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. The new owners of this revamped
Tenuta Friggiali 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. This wine starts off with typical Sangiovese aromas of blue flower, pipe tobacco, underbrush, black berries and baking spices. The dense
palate shows fleshy black cherry, black raspberry,
black pepper and a hint of coffee bean alongside
forward, round tannins. Drink 20152019. Soilair
Selection. K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $75
Terre Nere 2009 Brunello di Montalcino.

Brawny and forward, it leads with alluring fragrances of blue flower, underbrush, forest
berries, balsamic herbs and leather. The juicy palate delivers mature wild cherry layered with white
pepper, cinnamon, thyme and mint. While already
deliciously accessible, it should develop some complexity in the next few years but dont hold too long.
Drink through 2019. Monsieur Touton Selection
Ltd. Editors Choice. K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $38
90
Villa Le Prata 2009 Brunello di Montalcino.

This wine opens with aromas of woodland
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BUYINGGUIDE
berries, forest floor and spice with hints of menthol.
The ripe, low-acid palate delivers fleshy black cherry accented with thyme, sage and a hint of licorice
alongside tight tannins. Drink 20152019. Vinity
Wine, Artisan Wines. K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
89
Agostina Pieri 2009 Brunello di Montalcino.

Aromas recall meat juices, toasted oak, berries, espresso and cooking spices. The palate serves
up wild cherry accented with cinnamon, sage,
thyme, coffee and oak alongside just enough fresh
acidity and assertive tannins. Drink 20152021.
Rare Wine Company. K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $NA
89
Canalicchio Franco Pacenti 2009 Brunello

di Montalcino. Aromas of ripe black fruit,
underbrush, mushroom and forest floor come with
a whiff of leather. The palate opens with ripealmost sugary tastingblack cherry accented with
white pepper, cinnamon and Mediterranean herbs
alongside firm but fleeting tannins and soft acidity.
Multiple U.S. importers. K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $70
89
Caparzo 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Red

berry, spice and floral notes of rose and blue
flower lead the nose on this wine. The palate delivers ripe red cherry and raspberry accented with
thyme, sage and mint with hints of espresso and
toast. Well balanced, it conveys just enough freshness and firm but fleeting tannins. Vineyard Brands.
K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $40
89
Casisano Colombaio 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. This Brunello begins with a fragrance of mature black fruits, Mediterranean herbs,
blue flower and espresso. The palate delivers rich
red raspberry and black cherry layered with espresso, vanilla and chocolate alongside forceful tannins
that generate an abrupt finish. Deutsch Family Wine
& Spirits. K.O.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
89
Castelli Martinozzi 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Round and forward, it discloses

aromas of mature red berry, plum cake and a whiff
of Mediterranean herbs and meat juices. The palate offers ripealmost sugarywild cherry, vanilla
extract, mint and thyme. Its soft, ripe and ready to
enjoy soon. Wine For All. K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $45
89
Castello Romitorio 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. A structured Brunello, it opens with

aromas of forest floor, black berry, crushed flowers
and mint. The palate delivers restrained wild cherry accented with clove and Mediterranean spices
alongside bracing, tightly knit tannins that need to
unwind. Drink 20162021. Vinifera Imports. K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
89
Ciacci Piccolomini dAragona 2009 Brunello

di Montalcino. Aromas recall black plums
marinated in spirits, red berries, toast and a hint
of espresso. Reflecting the precocious nature of the
vintage, the fleshy palate seems fast forwarded, offering sweet black cherry layered with baking spices
alongside tame acidity and restrained, fleeting tannins. Its savory and already accessible so enjoy
soon. Indigenous Selections. K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
89
Col dOrcia 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Col

dOrcias straight Brunello starts with aromas of leafy underbrush, mature black fruit, leather
and a hint of grilled herbs. The ripe, forward palate
offers black raspberry and dark cherry layered with
notes of milk chocolate and coffee. Its soft, round
and very accessible, so enjoy sooner rather than
later. Palm Bay International. K.O.
abv: NA
Price: $55
89
Fattoi 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Opening aromas include black berries, toast and
underbrush with whiffs of leather and eucalyptus.
The palate delivers fleshy black cherry accented
with vanilla, black pepper and coffee alongside
dusty tannins. It closes on a sweet note of almost
overripe fruit and is fast approaching its ideal
drinking window. Tricana Imports. K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $65
89
Fattoria La Lecciaia 2009 Vigna Manapetra

(Brunello di Montalcino). This wine offers
aromas of underbrush, meat juices and farmyard together with notes of overripe red berries. The palate
delivers wild cherry accented with almost-sugary
sweet vanilla extract sensations, mocha and cinnamon-spice alongside assertive tannins that carry
through to the drying finish. Drink 20152019.
Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $48
89
Fornacina 2009 Brunello di Montalcino.

Black fruit, chocolate, licorice and menthol
aromas take center stage in this brawny, forward
Brunello. The palate starts off with fleshy black
cherry accented with notes of cinnamon-spice layered with bitter dark chocolate, but it finishes on a
note of drying tannins. Youll also notice the hefty
alcohol on the close. Villa Italia. K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $64
89
Il Palazzone 2009 Brunello di Montalcino.

This estate continues to improve every
year and has made an outstanding effort with the
2009 vintage. It opens with aromas of underbrush,
violet, red berries, menthol, thyme and a hint of orange peel. The palate offers wild cherry layered with
notes of chocolate and espresso alongside dusty,
drying tannins. It ends on a licorice note. Domenico
Valentino. K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $90
89
La Collina dei Lecci 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Ripe plum and red berry aromas
accented with hints of oak and white pepper lead

the nose on this wine. The round, ripe palate delivers fleshy black cherry spiced up with hot cinnamon
and a hint of licorice alongside tight tannins. Drink
20152021. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
89
Mastrojanni 2009 Vigna Loreto (Brunello di

Montalcino). Structured and concentrated,
it opens with aromas of dark berries, Mediterranean
herbs, cooking spices and a whiff of toast. The palate delivers ripe black and red cherries accented
with licorice and notes of grilled herbs alongside
tightly knit and aggressive tannins that generate
an abrupt finish. This should improve with a little
more age. Drink 20162021. Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $75
89
Mocali 2009 Vigna delle Raunate (Brunello

di Montalcino). This brooding wine starts
with aromas that recall underbrush, overripe black
fruit, mint, iris and baking spices. The palate is
tightly knit, with ripe red fruit, black pepper and
black spices alongside solid tannins. Its already accessible so enjoy over the next few years. Michael
Skurnik Wines. K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $60
89
Poggio Antico 2009 Brunello di Montalcino.

Earthy aromas quickly transition to ripe
marasca cherry and cake spices. The palate delivers juicy red berry, mint and white pepper alongside polished but not very persistent tannins. Its
already accessible so drink now through 2019. The
Sorting Table. K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $80
89
Salvioni 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. From

one of Montalcinos cult producers, this
wine leads with earthy aromas of underbrush,
truffle, stewed plums and prune. The palate offers
overripe black cherries, baked plums, licorice and
black spices. Its fast approaching its ideal drinking
window so enjoy soon. Vias Imports. K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $300
89
SassodiSole 2009 Brunello di Montalcino.

Forward but structured, it delivers underbrush, leather and dark fruit aromas punctuated
with hints of orange rind and spice. The palate offers fleshy black raspberry and red cherry sprinkled
with white pepper, licorice and a note of mocha
alongside firm but round tannins. Drink now2017.
Supreme Wines & Spirits. K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
89
Uccelliera 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. This

brawny wine leads with aromas of blue
flower, red berry, spice and a whiff of wet soil. The
palate offers succulent wild cherry layered with
notes of sweet vanilla, mint, espresso and thyme
alongside rather angular tannins and evident alcohol. de Grazia Imports LLC. K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $50
YEARS LATER,
VIRGINIA WINE IS STILL TRUE TO OUR ROOTS
STEVEN MORRIS
GOVERNORS CUP TM CASE FINALISTS
Barboursville
Vineyard
2008
Malvaxia
Passito
Barboursville Barboursville
Vineyard
Vineyard
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2010
Nebbiolo
Octagon
Reserve
Barren
Ridge
Vineyard
2009
Meritage
Fabbioli
Cellars
2011
Tannat
Horton
Vineyards
2010
Tannat
King Family
Vineyards
2011
Meritage
GOVERNORS CUPTM
WINNER
The Williamsburg Winery
2010 Adagio
When you uncork a bottle of Virginia wine, you experience more than the Old
World avors of Viognier, Cabernet Franc or Petit Verdot. You become part of
a living history that dates back more than 400 years to when the rst settlers
arrived in Jamestown. Taste for yourself how Virginia wine stays true to our
roots while igniting the passion of wine lovers from around the world.
2014 Virginia Wine Board Marketing Ofce, 804.344.8200. All rights reserved.
North Gate
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Meritage
Rockbridge
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DeChiel
Reserve
Meritage
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Chardonnay
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BUYINGGUIDE
88
Baccinetti 2009 Saporaia (Brunello di Montalcino). This wine, which has a surprisingly evolved light garnet color with some brick on
the edges, opens with a delicate floral perfume of
violet, red berry and cinnamon. The spicy palate offers red cherry, white pepper, clove and cinnamon
alongside fleeting tannins and a note of warm alcohol. Not much weight or complexity and extremely
approachable for such a young Brunello. K&L Wine
Merchants. K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
88
Bonacchi 2009 Molino del Piano (Brunello

di Montalcino). This mid-weight Brunello
starts with a pretty fragrance of wild berries, violet and baking spices. The juicy palate delivers red
cherry and black berry accented with notes of mint
and white pepper alongside tight tannins. Its rather
simple but very enjoyable. Drink 20152019. TriVin Imports. K.O.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $49
88
Capanne Ricci 2009 Brunello di Montalcino.

Aromas of mature black fruit are accented
with whiffs of violet, menthol and eucalyptus. The
palate features rich red and black cherries layered
with cinnamon, white pepper, espresso and dried
sage. Reflecting the vintage, it seems shy on acidity and is already approachable. Drink 20152019.
Montcalm Wine Importers. K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $55
88
Castello Ban 2009 Brunello di Montalcino.

The wine opens with aromas of oak, espresso, and black plum. The palate delivers stewed
plums, blackberries and cherry extract layered with
toasted oak, roasted coffee bean and sweet vanilla.
This is already accessible so enjoy over the next few
years. Banfi Vintners. K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $65
88
Centolani 2009 Pietranera (Brunello di Montalcino). This Brunello starts with subdued
aromas of plum, red berries and baking spices. The
palate is inexpressive at first but eventually reveals
black cherry, white pepper and clove alongside velvety tannins. Reflecting the vintage, this is already
rather evolved so best to enjoy it in the next few
years. Soilair Selection. K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $45
88
Collemattoni 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Aromas include leather, prune, plum,

leather, sage and meat juices. The concentrated palate offers ripe black cherry mingled with notes of
espresso, black pepper and coffee bean alongside
brooding tannins. Not much complexity and its already accessible so enjoy soon. K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
88
Collosorbo 2009 Brunello di Montalcino.

Aromas of mature black plum, meat juices
and Mediterranean herbs are punctuated by whiffs
of leather and truffle. The palate reveals sour cherry,
fruit tart and espresso alongside drying tannins. It
lacks intensity so enjoy soon. Multiple U.S. importers. K.O.

abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
88
Cupano 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. It

opens with aromas of toast, overripe black
fruit, roasted coffee bean and melting chocolate.
The dense palate delivers sweet black cherry extract, vanilla, anisette and oak. It has a round, ripe
character and youll also notice the warmth of alcohol. Drink over the next few years. Verdeor Select
Vintages. K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $NA
88
Fossacolle 2009 Fossobuio (Brunello di

Montalcino). The wine starts with aromas
of toasted oak, roasted coffee bean and whiffs of
black fruit. The palate offers black cherry, plum,
tobacco and espresso alongside somewhat drying
wood tannins. Its already a bit evolved so better to
enjoy sooner rather than later. Drink through 2019.
Vias Imports. K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
88
Il Poggiolo 2009 Annata (Brunello di Montalcino). This plump Brunello offers layered aromas of black plum, mature berry, vanilla,
and balsamic notes with a hint of leather. The ripe,
one-dimensional palate first reveals rich, sweet
black cherry, black pepper and cocoa but concludes
rather abruptly with a drying finish. SPW Importers. K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $60
88
La Colombina 2009 Brunello di Montalcino.

In this earthy wine, aromas recall wet soil,
berry, leather and a hint of farmyard. The palate
opens with dense wild cherry, cracked black pepper, prune and notes of bitter chocolate alongside
velvety tannins but the wine fades quickly on the
finish. Michael Skurnik Wines. K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $50
88
La Fortuna 2009 Brunello di Montalcino.

Fragrances of mature black fruit, violet,
espresso and baking spices take the lead. The palate
delivers ripe red berries, black cherry, vanilla and
mocha backed up by assertive but somewhat drying
tannins. Its evolving fast so drink over the next few
years. Vista Imports, Inc. K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $60
88
La Magia 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. This

wine opens with aromas of wild cherry
marinated in spirits, leather and dark chocolate.
The palate offers juicy black cherry accented with
white pepper, cinnamon and eucalyptus alongside
round but fleeting tannins. Its delicious but already
extremely accessible so dont leave this in the cellar
for too long. Drink through 2019. Medallion Global.
K.O.
abv: NA
Price: $60
88
La Mannella 2009 I Poggiarelli (Brunello di

Montalcino). Ripe red cherry, red rose pet-
als and a hint of orange peel lead the nose on this

wine. The forward palate delivers juicy wild cherry
accented with white pepper and a hint of mineral
alongside firm but fleeting tannins. Its already accessible so enjoy in the next few years. Superior
Wines . K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $95
88
La Rasina 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. This

wine opens with animal and farmyard aromas that arent unpleasant and which burn off in
the glass to reveal mature black fruit and leather.
The sweet palate offers fleshy, almost overripe
blackberry, black cherry, cinnamon-spice and balsamic herbs. It finishes on an astringent note of
wood tannins. Montecastelli Selections. K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
88
La Togata 2009 Togata dei Togati (Brunello

di Montalcino). This Brunello carries unusual fragrances of rose, sea breeze, overripe berries
and the barest hint of earthy barnyard. The juicy
palate delivers ripe black cherry, mint, espresso,
clove and nutmeg alongside rounded, evolved tannins and soft acidity. Drink through 2019. Panebianco. K.O.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $55
88
Lisini 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. This

ripe wine opens with aromas of stewed
black fruit, underbrush, prune, and a just whiff of
farmyard. The palate reveals nearly overripe black
cherry, cinnamon and clove alongside bracing, astringent tannins. Soilair Selection. K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $78
88
Loacker Corte Pavone 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Made from grapes grown observing the principles of biodynamic viticulture, this
forward wine has black fruit aromas punctuated
with chocolate notes, meat juices, spice and a hint
of leather. The dense, low-acid palate delivers rich
black cherry layered with mint, toasted oak, espresso and coconut alongside tightly knit, assertive tannins. This isnt an ager so enjoy over the next few
years. Maverick Wine. K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $75
88
Mastrojanni 2009 Brunello di Montalcino.

Fragrances recall wet leaves, underbrush,
forest berries and baking spices with a touch of
espresso. The palate reveals black cherry accented
with black pepper and espresso alongside bracing,
tongue-drying tannins. This is a big wine, but the
fruit isnt quite rich enough to support the evident
alcohol. Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $50
88
Mocali 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Opening aromas suggest underbrush, bay leaf,
meat juices, plum and raisin. These carry over to the
palate along with sour cherry, white pepper, cinnamon and espresso. Firm, drying tannins mark the
close. Michael Skurnik Wines. K.O.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $50
88
Palazzo 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. A

brawny wine, it leads with ripe berry, underbrush, toast and leather aromas. The juicy palate offers sweet wild cherry and black raspberry
accented with notes of mint, thyme, black pepper
and hint of coffee alongside bracing tannins. Drink
20152021. Bedford International. K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $70
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Piccini 2009 Villa al Cortile (Brunello di Montalcino). This forward wine opens with aromas that recall mature black plum, grilled herbs and
meat juices with whiffs of farmyard and leather. The
palate delivers ripe black cherry, sweet vanilla extract and round tannins. Even though it lacks complexity, its enjoyable drinking for the near term.
Drink through 2019. Aveni Brands, Inc. K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $45
Pietroso 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. It
shows earthy aromas of wet soil and leafy
underbrush, as well as leather, dark berry and spice.
The palate offers restrained black plum, sour cherry,
espresso and licorice alongside firm yet drying tannins. The fruit richness is starting to fade so enjoy
soon rather than later. Enotria Wine Import. K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $45
88
San Giacomo 2009 Brunello di Montalcino.

Balsam, menthol, spice and black and red
berry aromas with hints of mint lead the nose on
this wine. The palate offers subtle red cherry, prune,
tea and tobacco alongside velvety but rather fleeting
tannins. It closes on a drying, astringent note. Boutique Imports. K.O.
abv: NA
Price: $50
Terralsole 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Ripe

berry aromas are punctuated with touches
of underbrush, wet soil and thyme. The palate offers
up mature black plum, black cherry and espresso
alongside bracing but fleeting tannins. A hint of
powdered sage characterizes the close. Terralsole
USA. K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $78
Vasco Sassetti 2009 Brunello di Montalcino.

Underbrush, leather, ripe black berries and
menthols lead the aromas. The palate offers fleshy
red and black cherries accented with espresso, oak,
sweet vanilla and thyme alongside drying, forceful
tannins. Drink 20152019. Multiple U.S. importers.
K.O.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
Villa I Cipressi 2009 Brunello di Montalcino.

Aromas of turned soil, underbrush, spearmint, red berries and espresso carry over to the
palate along with a mint note. The tannins are
somewhat evolved, making the wine extremely accessible, so enjoy soon. Acid Inc Selections. K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $50
88
Villa I Cipressi 2009 Zebras (Brunello di

Montalcino). Easily recognizable thanks to
its label of multi-colored zebras, this wine opens
with aromas of raspberry, black fruit, espresso,
Mediterranean herbs and toasted notes. The palate
delivers ripe red cherry, raspberry and mint alongside velvety but fleeting tannins. Its ready, so drink
now through 2019. Acid Inc Selections. K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $70
2008 BRUNELLO
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Sesti 2009 Sangiovese (Brunello di Montalcino). Earthy and brawny, it opens with
a fragrance of stewed black fruit, Mediterranean
scrub, tilled soil and a hint of toast. The warm, forward palate offers wild cherry and black raspberry
accented with black pepper and a coffee note alongside round tannins. This isnt for cellaring so enjoy
over the next few years. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $76
88
Tenuta La Fuga 2009 Brunello di Montalcino.

This wine starts with whiffs of soil, mature
black berries, spice and leather. The forward, lowacid palate offers juicy dark cherry accented with
cinnamon-spice and chocolate alongside smooth,
velvety tannins. Its already extremely accessible so
enjoy over the next few years. Kobrand. K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $60
88
Tenute Silvio Nardi 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Aromas of oak, exotic incense and
asian spices come together together with a waft of
black plum. On the palate, it shows black cherry
layered with vanilla, toasted oak and espresso
alongside drying tannins. Drink 20152021. Kobrand. K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $70
95
Biondi Santi 2008 Brunello di Montalcino.

For full review see page 71. Cellar Selection.
abv: 13%
Price: $199
94
Mastrojanni 2008 Vigna Schiena dAsino

(Brunello di Montalcino). One of Montalcinos most sought-out wines, this 2008 is an outstanding effort. It opens with earthy notes of black
berries, tilled soil, underbrush, leather, tobacco and
prune. The succulent palate reveals juicy wild cherry and black raspberry energized by notes of white
pepper, licorice and thyme. Still young and tannic,
it should develop beautifully. Drink 20152028.
Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $100
94
Paradiso di Manfredi 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Intense, earthy aromas suggest truffle and leather. Smooth and fresh flavors focus on
delicious berry and spice. Big, velvety tannins are
uplifted by energizing minerality, delivering a finish
with fantastic length. Drink 20152028. Oliver McCrum Wines. K.O.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
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BUYINGGUIDE
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Salvioni 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Bright

cherry and blue floral aromas come with
hints of leather and spice. The vibrant palate delivers succulent wild cherry and white pepper restrained by fresh acidity and bracing tannins. It
has mesmerizing depth, finesse and balance. Drink
20152028. Vias Imports. K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $209
92
Caprili 2008 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). It opens with an earthy fragrance of

black plum, underbrush, meat juices, thyme and bay
leaf. The dense palate delivers juicy black cherry
accented with licorice, black pepper and balsamic
herbs. Big and concentrated, it has ripe tannins balanced by decent acidity. Hold for more complexity.
Drink 20162923. Multiple U.S. importers. K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $73
92
Fattoi 2008 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). It conveys classic aromas of bright red
berries, baking spices, leather and forest underbrush. The dense palate delivers juicy black cherry
accented with notes of mint, fresh sage, thyme, licorice, black pepper and chocolate. Its well balanced,
with solid tannins that carry through to the finish.
Drink 20162028. Tricana Imports. K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $120
91
Castello Ban 2008 Poggio alle Mura Riserva

(Brunello di Montalcino). This structured
wine opens with aromas that recall underbrush,
blue flower, mature black plums, balsam and a whiff
of leather. The palate delivers black cherry sweetened with vanilla, toasted oak, espresso and chocolate alongside bracing tannins. Drink 20152020.
Banfi Vintners. K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $130
91
La Poderina 2008 Poggio Abate Riserva

(Brunello di Montalcino). Round and velvety,
it has aromas of ripe berry, chocolate and exotic
spices. The rich palate delivers juicy black cherry
punctuated with ground black pepper, cinnamon,
carob, pipe tobacco and mint. Forward and sweet,
this is already extremely accessible so enjoy soon.
Drink through 2018. Vias Imports. K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $78
91
Uccelliera 2008 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Andrea Cortonese makes ripe, structured
Brunellos and this is an impressive effort from the
variable 2008 vintage. It opens with aromas reminiscent of black plum, chocolate, vanilla and leather. These carry over to the palate along with toasted
notes, spice and espresso. The fruit is supported by
assertive tannins that need time to soften. Drink
20152023. de Grazia Imports LLC. K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
90
Coldisole 2008 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This offers aromas of fragrant blue
flowers, black berries, vanilla, and forest floor. The
dense palate is rich with fleshy black cherry layered
with chocolate, white pepper and coffee alongside
solid tannins that carry through to the end. It closes

on a sweet vanilla note. Not much complexity but
it offers drinking pleasure for the near term. Drink
through 2018. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits.
K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $105
ers fleshy black plum, cinnamon, clove and licorice

layered with a milk chocolate note. Its not the most
complex Brunello out there but it has succulent
fruit and firm tannins. Drink through 2018. Enotec
Imports, Inc. K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $70
90
Fattoria dei Barbi 2008 Riserva (Brunello di

Montalcino). This delivers a classic Sangiovese nose of wild cherry, leather, violet, iris, flint
and spice. The dense palate reveals fleshy black
cherry uplifted by menthol, eucalyptus, black pepper and sage. Its still young but should develop
more complexity over the next few years. Drink
20162023. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $90
89
90
88
La Gerla 2008 Gli Angeli Riserva (Brunello di

Montalcino). Earthy aromas suggest tilled
soil, leather, prune, balsam and dried cherries marinated in spirits. The palate offers ripe black cherry
accented with sensations of white pepper, cinnamon, fig, black tea and a hint of chocolate. It has
assertive but polished tannins and nice depth, but
it already seems fully developed. Drink 20152023.
Multiple U.S. importers. K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $85
90
Podere Le Ripi 2008 Lupi e Sirene Riserva

(Brunello di Montalcino). It opens with
aromas of underbrush, leather, fennel, prune and
plum with just a whiff of rubber. The palate delivers
dense black cherry accented with fresh mint, sage,
espresso and mocha alongside fine but tightly-knit
tannins that need time to unwind. Italian Wine
Growers. K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $120
90
Sesti 2008 Phenomena Riserva (Brunello di

Montalcino). With its intriguing label that
changes every year to reflect the most important astronomical event that occurred during the harvest
year, this wine leads with intense aromas of underbrush, woodland berries, black pepper and grilled
herbs. The juicy palate delivers sweet red cherry
layered with notes of balsam, toast, cake spices and
a hint of vanilla alongside big, assertive tannins that
need time. Drink 20162023. Kermit Lynch Wine
Merchant. K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $112
89
Donatella Cinelli Colombini 2008 Riserva

(Brunello di Montalcino). Funky, earthy aromas dissipate in the glass to reveal mature black
plum, espresso and vanilla. The forward, warm palate offers ripealmost overripeblack cherry, layered with fleshy raspberry, coffee, and bitter chocolate sensations. It closes on a sweet, almost sugary
note. Banville Wine Merchants. K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $80
89
Il Poggiolo 2008 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Structured but accessible, it opens

with aromas of mature black cherry, raisin, leather,
cake spices and coffee. The round, soft palate deliv-
PianCornello 2008 Riserva (Brunello di

Montalcino). Warm, toasty aromas are
punctuated with whiffs of mature black berries and
chocolate. The palate offers tart red cherry, black
pepper and cinnamon-spice alongside the warmth
of alcohol. It lacks the complexity one expects from
a Brunello Riserva but its well balanced and ready.
Drink through 2020. Superior Wines . K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $NA
Canneta 2008 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Oak, exotic incense, mature black fruit
and a hint of vanilla lead the nose on this straightforward wine. The one-dimensional palate delivers
chocolate-covered cherries layered with notes of
vanilla and coffee alongside dusty tannins. Orvino
Imports & Distribution. K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $50
88
La Collina dei Lecci 2008 Riserva (Brunello

di Montalcino). Aromas recall underbrush,
blue flower, mushroom and forest berries. The palate offers raw red cherries layered with milk chocolate and Mediterranean spices alongside assertive,
drying tannins. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd.
K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $52
88
Tassi 2008 Franci Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Aromas of overripe black berries,
prune, toasted oak accompany a whiff of farmyard
that burns off fairly quickly. The palate delivers
bright red cherry accented with vanilla, black pepper and espresso alongside assertive but rather astringent tannins. Multiple U.S. importers. K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
AUSTRIA
RIESLING
95
Josef Jamek 2012 Ried Klaus Riesling Smaragd (Wachau). Lifted ripeness and candied
lemon peel send their aromas heavenwards. These
rounded aromas with a fetching touch of bitter fir
and honey also appear on the palate where acidity
is present but cushioned. Like honey parfait spiked
with lemon peel, this is lovely and lingers long. Carlo Huber Selections. A.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $75
95
Rudi Pichler 2012 Wsendorfer Hochrain

Riesling Smaragd (Wachau). Powdery notions of white peony petals against a stony background suggest concealed aromas that need time to
come to the fore. Right now the palate is tight, with
buffered acidity at the core, long, lean and promis-
ing. Lime zest lurks amid suspicions of ripe peaches

in a sherbety, lemony sharpness. The wine will blossom as of 2017. Winebow. A.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $80
95
Rudi Pichler 2012 Wsendorfer Kirchweg

Riesling Smaragd (Wachau). The tightly
closed nose only gives away a little ripe red apple.
Even with the fruit locked underneath the stones,
the sleek power, the impression of saltiness and
lime-zest purity of this wine whisper promises.
These will be kept, at least if you wait until 2017.
This one will last and last. Winebow. Cellar Selection. A.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $75
94
Allram 2012 Heiligenstein Reserve Riesling

(Kamptal). A pure and spicy lift of bergamot promises refreshment while the palate whirls
with peach, mandarin and blood orange. All are
backed by a steely, mineral poise that cuts through
the palate like a comet, shimmering with purity, deliciousness and length. Vias Imports. A.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
94
Eichinger 2012 Heiligenstein Reserve Riesling (Kamptal). At this point subdued, this
wine promises future pleasures with a ripe, rounded but precise character. Right now, its citrus that
shows, with ripe lemon zest and some grapefruit.
Underneath riches of red apples, yellow peaches
and apricots await. Purity and minerality are a bonus. This is a keeper; drink as of 2018. WeygandtMetzler. Cellar Selection. A.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $35
94
Hirsch 2012 Gaisberg Reserve Riesling

(Kamptal). Still shy but invitingly soft, it
has a charming peachiness that cushions both the
lemony acidity and the streak of stony minerality.
Edges of mandarin peel and flesh add to the allure,
which will increase with age. Softly-spoken but very
convincing and long. Michael Skurnik Wines. A.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $28
94
Jurtschitsch Sonnhof 2012 Heiligenstein Reserve Riesling (Kamptal). What to remark

on first: those hints of mellow, luscious ripeness of
plum, peach and apple, or that zesty, breezy lemon
acidity? Together they make a complete and contrasting picture that focuses on full fruit expression
and slender but concentrated linearity. Wein Bauer
Inc.. A.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
94
Loimer 2012 Steinmassl Reserve Riesling

(Kamptal). This is definitely on the plumper, richer side of Riesling. Almost overwhelming peach fruit beckons on the nose. The palate is
rounded but dry and tempered by freshness. It is
rich and has intimations of dried sultana but remains dry and versatile. With all its spicy allure and
long-lasting finish, the impression is almost exotic.
A.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
94
Mantlerhof 2012 Wieland Reserve Riesling

(Kremstal). Ripe peach, dried sultana and
a touch of dried fig suggest superripe grapes. Nonetheless, the dry and mineral palate creates a firm,
dry frame for all that fruit. Austere discipline contrasts with opulent fruit, and the tussle will please
the lucky drinker. The length is astonishing. Multiple U.S. importers. A.K.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
94
Pichler-Krutzler 2012 Wunderburg Riesling

(Wachau). Tightly coiled aromas of lemon
and grapefruit peel on this seemingly delicate but in
fact steely wine. Grown in ancient rocks this Riesling presents dryness, poise and purity. Drink as of
2018. Weygandt-Metzler. Cellar Selection. A.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $55
94
Salomon-Undhof 2012 Steiner Kgl Reserve Riesling (Kremstal). Tight but gently
touched with ripe apple, lime and grapefruit, this
wine is refreshing now, although it is still too closed
to show its fuller fruits. This will flesh out with time
but the wine will always be among the slender, invigorating Rieslings with a precise touch of minerality. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. A.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $55
94
Schloss Gobelsburg 2012 Heiligenstein Reserve Riesling (Kamptal). Tight and slender
on the palate, it has green and yellow citrus flavors
in the foreground. Lime and grapefruit peel appear
first, followed by stirrings of pink grapefruit flesh. It
all adds up to a wine that offers concentration and
depth plus exquisite purity. Michael Skurnik Wines.
A.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $41
94
Stift Gttweig 2012 Silberbichl Reserve Riesling (Kremstal). Seductive notes of fragrant,
red-cheeked peaches come together with notes of
honeysuckle. The palate displays the same beguiling
aromatics and is slender but deep. Concentration
and finesse spell a great future. Editors Choice.
A.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
94
Tegernseerhof 2012 Steinertal Riesling Smaragd (Wachau). Tightly closed like a fist, the
only intimation of flavor is the seam of lemon-zest
acidity. Purity and precision are stony straightjackets that this wine will never escape, but its aromatic
development will yield ample pleasure for the patient. Drink as of 2017. Select Wines. A.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $44
93
Allram 2012 Gaisberg Reserve Riesling

(Kamptal). Rounded, plump little apricots
are suggested in this clean-cut but ripe and dry
Riesling with its straight, mineral backbone and impressive balance. A deep and rich core of fruit will
unveil layers of fruit and complexity over years to
come. Drink as of 2017. Vias Imports. A.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
WINEMAG.COM | 89
BUYINGGUIDE
93
Arndorfer 2012 Strasser Winberge Reserve

Riesling (Kamptal). Hints of lemon peel rise
shyly from the glass, becoming more intense with
air. The palate is dry, buffered and has a savory
undertow of wild thyme that interplays beautifully with sumptuous peach notes and that almost
textured, zesty acidity that unites everything and
brings extended, refreshing length. Indie Wineries.
A.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $28
93
Eder 2012 Riesling Smaragd (Wachau). Initially restrained, this opens into whirls of
lemon, lime and pink grapefruit peel with an almost
fizzy zestiness. Refreshment travels along the palate
in total precision and linearity, with a rush of citrusy excitement. Slocum & Sons, Inc. A.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $30
93
Eichinger 2012 Gaisberg Reserve Riesling

(Kamptal). Lime-zesty purity couples with
an earthy, almost spicy edge. Pleasantly grippy
phenolics speak of ripeness and plentitude while
remaining streamlined, straight and long. This has
yet to blossom but will be lovely. Drink as of 2017.
Weygandt-Metzler. A.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $30
93
Hiedler 2012 Gaisberg Reserve Riesling

(Kamptal). Sassy and refreshing, this Riesling bursts with lime, mandarin, Seville orange and
Amalfi lemon on a clean-cut but concentrated palate. Michael Skurnik Wines. A.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
93
Jger 2012 Achleiten Riesling Smaragd

(Wachau). An aromatic allegiance of ripe
apple, juicy peach, grapefruit, lemon and orange
peel appears against stony minerality. Combining
playfulness and severity, concentration and levity, its an ideal wine for those who delight in dichotomies. They will be even more delighted by the
wines length and zesty refreshment. WeygandtMetzler. A.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
93
Lagler 2012 1000 Eimerberg Riesling Smaragd (Wachau). Flinty smoke and a faint
streak of grapefruit peel constitute the scant aromatics of this tightly closed wine. Concentration,
streamlined acidic structure and extended length
assure quality but bid us to be patient. It will also
last the distance, probably with more candied angelica and citrus peel. Enjoy as of 2017. MS Walker.
A.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
93
Mantlerhof 2012 Steingraben Reserve Riesling (Kremstal). Mellow and peachy ripeness tempered by fresh grapefruit acidity make this
a mineral white with incisive intensity. Right now
its tight and spiky. With time in bottle it will soften
into sumptuous fruitiness, but never lose its wonderful edge. Multiple U.S. importers. A.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
93
Nigl 2012 Senftenberger Hochcker Reserve

Riesling (Kremstal). Crushed camomile
leaves and fresh apricots beckon with ethereal lift.
The palate oscillates between austerity and thrill
with its uncompromising acidity. This is ready and
open now but will continue to age. Michael Skurnik
Wines. A.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
93
Pichler-Krutzler 2012 Loibenberg Riesling

(Wachau). A soft impression of ripe peach
mellows the zesty concentration. The wine is still
enigmatic at this point, but will open and reveal
more fruit, more ripeness and even more citrus flavors. Enjoy as of 2017. Weygandt-Metzler. A.K.
abv: NA
Price: $42
93
Proidl 2006 Senftenberger Ehrenfels Riesling (Kremstal). The wine begins with an
ethereal lift of dried thyme coupled with candied
orange and lemon peels. The palate is dry and intense, as though it were about to reveal the secrets
of time held in the rocky slopes where it grew. As a
late release, this is a prime example of the rewards
of delayed gratification. The palate has taken on an
almost oily texture but the tight acidity keeps it
elixier-like. Stacole Fine Wines. A.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
92
Hermann Moser 2012 Kellerterassen Reserve

Gelbling Riesling (Kremstal). Concentrated
but still closed, this will need time to develop. For
now there is zesty, layered promise of orange and
lime peel and a streamlined dryness with an upright
backbone of fine and pure acidity. Drink as of 2016.
Boutique Wine Collection. A.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $45
92
Hiedler 2012 Heiligenstein Reserve Riesling

(Kamptal). Golden and restrained, this wine
does not give too much away on the nose. But the
spicily soft palate delivers with a brilliant, lemonzesty acidity well couched in mineral midpalate
concentration with an enduring finish. Michael
Skurnik Wines. A.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
92
Hirsch 2012 Heiligenstein Reserve Riesling

(Kamptal). Clean-cut and zesty with the
tang of grapefruit peel, a concentrated midpalate
and a refreshing dryness, this Riesling shows elegance, power and lip-smacking lemon finish. Shy
now, it will reveal more power with bottle age. Drink
as of 2017. Michael Skurnik Wines. A.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $28
92
Loimer 2012 Seeberg Reserve Riesling

(Kamptal). Juicy yellow peaches are invitingly soft on nose and palate, where the zesty acidity
of lime and lemon rind lightens the fruit, leading to
a lifted and refreshing finish. A.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
92
Proidl 2012 Senftenberger Ehrenfels Reserve

Riesling (Kremstal). Ripe pear, peach and a
wild-thyme-scented edge play on nose. They continue on the slender, focused palate into a long
trajectory of flavor that remains dry and refreshing
throughout. Stacole Fine Wines. A.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $43
91
Felsner 2012 Gelbling Reserve Riesling (Kamptal). Pale and interesting, it carries that arresting scent of Seville orange peel that somehow is
herbal and citrusy at the same time. This generates
energy and refreshment, tempered by a rich, dry and
concentrated body with a super-clean and intensely
lemony finish. Grape Expectations (CA). A.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
91
Josef Schmid 2012 Sunogeln Reserve Riesling

(Kremstal). The charged scent of candied
peach promises pleasure that the dry but deeply
peachy palate keeps. The wine also conveys the
pleasant bitterness of orange peel and refreshing
crispness. Tastings Import Company. A.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $40
91
Nigl 2012 Privat Senftenberger Pellingen Reserve Riesling (Kremstal). Perfumed and seductive, it leads with floral and peach notes. The
citrus-like acidity is cushioned by lots of body, but
freshness and linearity shine through beautifully.
Michael Skurnik Wines. A.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
91
Schloss Gobelsburg 2012 Gaisberg Reserve

Riesling (Kamptal). Still restrained on the
nose, this wine takes time to develop, but the underlying purity is most promising. There are stores
of citrus, mandarin, orange and lemons together
with juicy yellow pear and a clean vein of acidity.
Drink as of 2016. Michael Skurnik Wines. A.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $23
91
Stadt Krems 2012 Grillenparz Reserve Riesling (Kremstal). The enticing touch of Seville
orange gets you at the very first whiff, combining
sweet citrus with herb-scented ocean breeze. On
the palate, notions of ripe peach join in, presenting a softer picture with a pliable, pleasing acidity.
Winebow. A.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $40
91
Steininger 2012 Novemberlese Reserve Riesling (Kamptal). Ripe, sun-warmed peaches

and a flash of lime zest frame the rich but wonderfully dry palate of this clean-cut, grown-up Riesling,
which has enough concentration to balance that linear acid. Select Wines. A.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $34
90
Arndorfer 2012 Die Leidenschaft Riesling

(Niedersterreich). Soft notes of yellow
pear and ripe red apple present a full-fruited but
dry palate with rounded edges and easy likeability.
Atypically, this Riesling spent a little time in oak
barriques, which gives it a very different character
while preserving the pure, juicy apple fruit. Indie

Wineries. A.K.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $60
90
Zull 2012 Innere Bergen Riesling (Niedersterreich). Freshly cut green pears and
crunchy, ripe apples have immediate appeal. This
fruity freshness continues on the sleek and superclean palate, which leads to a refreshing, long finish.
Magellan Wine Imports. A.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $21
89
Anton Bauer 2012 Alte Reben Riesling (Wagram-Donauland). Ripe red apples and an
appealing, tangy grapefruit touch make this a delicious proposition for pairing with meals. Prescott
Wines. A.K.
abv: 14%
Price: $35
89
Fritsch 2012 Kapuzinerberg Riesling (Niedersterreich). Tight and spicy, it carries an

underlying ripeness of apples and pears. A subtle
Riesling, it shows breezy freshness and an acidityspiked texture that makes it invigorating. The slighest suggestion of pineapple lingers on the finish.
Monika Caha Selections. A.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
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Ebner-Ebenauer 2012 Alte Reben Riesling

(Niedersterreich). Spicy herbal notes creep
into a ripe nose of apricot and red apple. The same
savory, earthy touch plays on the softened palate.
Winemonger. A.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $47
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Kurt Angerer 2012 Ametzberg Riesling (Niedersterreich). Ripe yellow pear and apple
juice notes spell plump ripeness, with a streamlined
but well-cushioned body. Weygandt-Metzler. A.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
85
Lenikus 2012 Der Reisenberg Riesling Halbtrocken (Vienna). Plump and aromatically
subdued with a touch of residual sweetness (halbtrocken), this shows some midpalate concentration and provides some citrusy refreshment. Savio
Soares Selections. A.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
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Salomon-Undhof 2012 Alte Reben Berglagen

Grner Veltliner (Kremstal). Rich aromas of
late summer are here: the ripe peel of yellow pears,
luscious peach and yellow Mirabelle plum plus
some dried hayflower notes. There is power and
depth, along with some alcoholic heat and balancing
aciditybeautiful now but it will get even better.
Drink until 2020. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Editors
Choice. A.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $35
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Allram 2012 Gaisberg Reserve Grner Veltliner (Kamptal). Pear, arugula, white pepper
and apricots take turns in dazzling nose and palate.

A serious, concentrated and mineral vein of power
also courses through this sleek wine, which holds
even more future promise. Vias Imports. A.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
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Eichinger 2012 Gaisberg Reserve Grner Veltliner (Kamptal). Lifted, lemony freshness
mixes with lime zest on the nose. Underneath some
pungent arugula also dances on the palate, where
pepperiness and fresh acidity guarantee pleasure
with this concentrated but toned white. WeygandtMetzler. A.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
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Eichinger 2012 Lamm Reserve Grner Veltliner (Kamptal). Plump, ripe apricots play
above a peppery, lemony core that bursts with
juiciness and teases with salty minerality that keeps
you wanting more. Delicious now, it promises lots
of mileage. Drink until 2020. Weygandt-Metzler.
A.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $38
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Josef Jamek 2012 Ried Achleiten Grner

Veltliner Smaragd (Wachau). Red-cheeked
apples, juicy pear and Mirabelle plums comes out
to play here, tightly held by brilliant acidity. The
undertone of herbal savoriness is glimpsed and will
come to the fore as this ages. Drink as of 2016. Carlo
Huber Selections. Cellar Selection. A.K.
abv: 14%
Price: $45
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Jurtschitsch Sonnhof 2012 Loiserberg Reserve Grner Veltliner (Kamptal). Herbal

touches of chervil and dill combine with grapefruit
zest and a slender but muscular body. Shades of
pepper spice are revealed on the tight palate that
culminates in a long, delicious and savory finish.
Drink as of 2016. Wein Bauer Inc.. A.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
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Lagler 2012 Steinborz Grner Veltliner Smaragd (Wachau). Perfumed green pears,
overlaid with the floral charm of summer blossom,
characterize this concentrated yet lithe wine. Nonetheless, it is based on a firm core that suggests the
ancient rocks where the vines grew. Little by little,
a miso-like saltiness also reveals itself. MS Walker.
A.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
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Salomon-Undhof 2012 Von Stein Berglagen

Reserve Grner Veltliner (Kremstal). A spark
of flint leaps out of the glass, followed by green
plums and Conference pear. That stony touch also
tempers the concentrated body and runs from start
to pleasantly long finish, ending in a pleasantly bitter sting. Drink as of 2016. Fruit of the Vines, Inc.
A.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $55
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Allram 2012 Hasel Alte Reben Reserve Grner

Veltliner (Kamptal). A hint of smoke plays
about the nose; likewise, the palate is restrained.
WINEMAG.COM | 91
BUYINGGUIDE
This tight, closed wine requires time to let ripe and
concentrated pear fruit and lime appear. This long
zesty grapefruit finish promises future pleasure.
Drink as of 2016. Vias Imports. A.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
93
Arndorfer 2012 Strasser Winberge Reserve

Grner Veltliner (Kamptal). Really ripe red
and baked apples pervade nose and palate with
their deep and juicy fruitiness. A lively acidic tang
and midpalate concentration lead to a deeply satisfying, apple-charged finish. Indie Wineries. A.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $26
93
Josef Schmid 2012 Kremser Gelbling Reserve

Grner Veltliner (Kremstal). Green pears announce themselves immediately, followed by riper
pear flavors. This makes for a rich but still toned
palate, where white pepper and leafy spice also
come into play. Muscular but trim, this wine has
the concentration to last. Drink until 2020. Tastings Import Company. A.K.
abv: 14%
Price: $35
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Aigner 2012 Privat Reserve Grner Veltliner

(Kremstal). Very ripe yellow pears set the
scene. Richness continues on the palate, with the
wine preserving a light touch without sacrificing
concentration. Full marks for balance, charm and
savory length. Weygandt-Metzler. A.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
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Jurtschitsch Sonnhof 2012 Kferberg Reserve Grner Veltliner (Kamptal). Aromas of

flint and meadow flowers mingle in this mineral but
juicy and joyous wine. Grapefruit zest underlines
the lively acidity. If you are after concentrated, zippy linearity, this is it. Wein Bauer Inc.. A.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
Anton Bauer 2012 Grande Reserve Grner

Veltliner (Wagram-Donauland). Flint, ripe
peaches and golden apricots with the merest hint
of vanilla suggest the finest Viennese pastries. This
well-judged and super-mellow wine is just rich
enough, also giving hints of almond paste and lime
peel. There is no heaviness, just velvety mouthfeel
and sumptuous length. Prescott Wines. A.K.
abv: 14%
Price: $29
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Hgl 2012 Schne Alte Parzellen Reserve

Grner Veltliner (Wachau). The clean-cut lift
of fresh green pear and grapefruit peel reveals fruity
and juicy concentration on the midpalate, underlined by rocky minerality. Winemonger. A.K.
abv: 14%
Price: $66
Unger 2012 Oberfeld Alte Reben Reserve

Grner Veltliner (Kremstal). A touch of flintstone, a hint of soy-sauce savoriness and the ripe
but fresh scent of green pears all bode well for a
grippy, concentrated wine. It features a zesty, refreshing core and a lovely notion of wet pebbles. The
body is slender and tight. Natural Selection Wines.
A.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
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Eder 2012 Sssenberg Grner Veltliner Smaragd (Wachau). The wine reveals savory
depth that is almost soy-sauce-like, along with
hints of nutmeg, white pepper and some arugula.
They harmonize with ripe green pear fruit in this
typically spicy white that finishes with lip-smacking and clean zest. Slocum & Sons, Inc. A.K.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
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Gritsch Mauritiushof 2012 Loibenberg Grner

Veltliner Smaragd (Wachau). Ripe, round
and savory notes emerge, almost with a touch of
miso. The palate is a repository for zesty green citrus flavors and more of that enticing spice. A.K.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
93
Gruber Rschitz 2012 Hundspoint Grner

Veltliner (Weinviertel). Grapefruit zest dominates this wine right now, but ripe honeydew melon also is shining though. As the wine opens up, it
also reveals peppery, tangy spice and a refreshingly
clean finish. Total Wine & More. A.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $18
93
Hager Matthias 2012 Seeberg Grner Veltliner (Niedersterreich). Dried fruit flavors
and the bitter tang of dark fir honey are spiked by
concentrated lemony acidity. The nose and palate
are round and rich, but tamed by acidity that runs
through like an electric current. This rich, dry but
distinctly late-harvest style wine, with just a touch
of residual sugar, finishes with triumphant apple
fruit and lemon zest. Acid Inc Selections. A.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $32
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Ingrid Groiss 2012 Sauberg Tradition Grner

Veltliner (Niedersterreich). The delicate
smoke and hazelnut scent of oak shines through
and makes a frame for ripe apricot and Mirabelle
plums. The palate is soft and rounded, set off by pizzazz from the lively acidity that underlines the juicy
core. Circo Vino. A.K.
abv: 14%
Price: $47
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Jurtschitsch Sonnhof 2012 Lamm Reserve

Grner Veltliner (Kamptal). While the nose
discloses little, the palate displays an array of apricot, sharp arugula and white pepper with some
grapefruit zest. Focused and streamlined, this wine
delivers lip-smacking freshness, great concentration and a super-clean finish. Drink as of 2016. David Bowler Wine. A.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
Rudi Pichler 2012 Wsendorfer Kollmtz

Grner Veltliner Smaragd (Wachau). Subdued pear fruit is tightly coiled inside this rich and
promising white. For now it has phenolic richness
and wonderfully tangy acidity. In time the wine will
show the luscious ripeness of this harvest. Drink as
of 2016. Winebow. A.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $75
Unger 2012 Gotschelle Reserve Grner Veltliner (Kremstal). In this restrained wine,
red apple and green pear flavors framed by a mineral backdrop suggest both austerity and longevity.
There is well-controlled power here and surprising
depth with just a twist of white pepper and a pure
finish. Natural Selection Wines. A.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
Weixelbaum 2012 Alte Reben Reserve Grner

Veltliner (Kamptal). With the appetizing scent of lemon-spiked pear sorbet, it delivers
breezy refreshment. A tight, linear body is displayed
against a mineral backdrop. The finish is softer than
expected, like a caress. Slocum & Sons, Inc. A.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $22
Arndorfer 2011 Die Leidenschaft Grner

Veltliner (Niedersterreich). Bruised apple
peel, ripe Golden Delicious apples and overtones
of aromatic, dark fir honey are an unusual proposition, but a successful and intriguing one here. The
palate is full and supple and highlighted by fresh
apple acidity while the edges are framed by pleasant
phenolic grip. This is a wine for grown-ups. Indie
Wineries. A.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $55
Felsner 2012 Alte Reben Reserve Grner
Veltliner (Kremstal). Hayflowers, summer
meadows and ripe pears are conjured up by this
wine. The palate is toned with a harmonious interplay of textural power and streamlined freshness.
Grapefruit zestiness and herbal savoriness complete
the tableau. Grape Expectations (CA). A.K.
abv: 14%
Price: $27
Hermann Moser 2012 Hannah Reserve Gelbling Grner Veltliner (Kremstal). A little
aeration and tropical notes of passion fruit add
charm. This wine is restrained at first and stays
streamlined along the way. Peppery spice enhances
the wonderful refreshment edged with minerality.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
Hiedler 2012 Thal Reserve Grner Veltliner
(Kamptal). Just faint touches of ripe, yellow pear appear on the nose, suggesting how tightly
closed this wine still is. However, the generous palate is full of both green and yellow pears and injections of grapefruit acidity. Tight and long, its best
kept for a while. Drink as of 2016. Michael Skurnik
Wines. A.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
Hirsch 2012 Lamm Reserve Grner Veltliner
(Kamptal). First a faint touch of flint and
smoke appears, followed by subtle notes of green
pear. Still fairly closed, the wine shows a tight body
that will loosen into plumper ripeness. Intimations
of orange peel and golden pear promise a great wine
with a rich mouthfeel and cleansing acidity. Michael

Skurnik Wines. A.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $28
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Ingrid Groiss 2012 In der Schablau Reserve

Grner Veltliner (Weinviertel). Luscious
Mirabelle plums and honey melons are tempered
by hints of smoke. The slender palate leaves an impression. Assertive but light, it finishes with a long,
clean cut. Circo Vino. A.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $33
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Jger 2012 Achleiten Grner Veltliner Smaragd (Wachau). Just a hint of ripe apricot is
ready to appear. The rest of the fruit remains locked
in a rich but concentrated midpalate where a pleasantly bitter phenolic grip gives extra character. Ripe
but spiky acid forms a straight backbone and makes
this a wine worth waiting for. Drink as of 2016.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
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Stift Gttweig 2012 Gottschelle Reserve

Grner Veltliner (Kremstal). The quiet but
full-fruited concentration of ripe yellow pears
seems to be distilled here. While the aromatic expression is restrained, the palate shows concentration, warmth and phenolic gripbut an equally
concentrated acidity provides backbone and lift.
A.K.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
92
Tegernseerhof 2012 Hhereck Grner Veltliner Smaragd (Wachau). Lemon peel and yeast
are in the starring roles for now, showing miso-like
savor with smoky edges and glimpses of white pep-
per. The fruit will come later. For now, this is pure,
textural pleasure, with a very clean-cut finish. KW
Selection. A.K.
abv: 14%
Price: $44
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Trk 2012 Frechau Reserve Grner Veltliner

(Kremstal). A little smoke, a little pear peel,
some aloe vera... Nothing is overdone and all falls
into place. On the palate a hint of rich, yeasty nuttiness jostles with ripe fruit, but all is under tight
restraint. This wine will take time to show its glorious colors. Drink as of 2016. Niche Import Company. A.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $35
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Josef Schmid 2012 Alte Reben Reserve Grner

Veltliner (Kremstal). Lifted and ultra-clean
Conference pear signals a disciplined wine. The linear palate is equally pure, with zesty and fresh acidity against a background of these green pears and a
mossy savoriness. Tastings Import Company. A.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
92
Loimer 2012 Langenlois Spiegel Reserve

Grner Veltliner (Kamptal). A touch of flint
and hints of gunmetal show amidst yellow grapefruit and lime peel. The body is fresh and zesty but
has a fullish core. Within a year or two the aromatics will fully open. Drink as of 2016. Winebow.
A.K.
abv: 14%
Price: $70
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Pichler-Krutzler 2012 Wunderburg Grner

Veltliner (Wachau). Dried hayflowers, juicy
yellow pear and notes of dried coriander leaves
are paired with a yeasty dollop of richness. Fruit
recedes into the background while leaving layered
aromatic play. Clean acidity underlies all, enhancing pairings with meals. Weygandt-Metzler. A.K.
abv: 14%
Price: $55
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Rudi Pichler 2012 Wsendorfer Hochrain

Grner Veltliner Smaragd (Wachau). Grapefruit peel and ripe Mirabelle plums are just hinted
at on this sleek white. Thrilling acidity counters alcoholic warmth and give poise to the concentrated
body. It still needs to open up more but promises
pleasure. Winebow. A.K.
abv: 15%
Price: $80
92
Stadt Krems 2012 Wachtberg Reserve Grner

Veltliner (Kremstal). With a little air this
wine will start flirting. Ripe white currant and
sweet Golden Delicious apples appear on the palate.
A lissom but fruity wine, it carries weight in all the
right places. Winebow. A.K.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
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Trk 2012 Kremser Sandgrube Reserve

Grner Veltliner (Kremstal). Tightly closed
as a flower bud, this needs time to disclose its secrets. Gentle notes of ripe pear appear on the soft
and supple palate. A core of lively acidity will keep
the wine alive as it opens up. Niche Import Company. A.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $27
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Weixelbaum 2012 Wahre Werte Reserve

Grner Veltliner (Kamptal). Just-ripe green
pears and scented spring flowers make this a
charming proposition. Underneath, a firm and concentrated body unfolds into a refreshing and long
finish. Slocum & Sons, Inc. A.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $26
92
Zull 2012 uere Bergen Grner Veltliner

(Niedersterreich). Intensely aromatic Williams Christ pear and minerality combine to make
a sleek wine that leaves real impact. The palate is
concentrated but toned. Fresh grapefruit zest amid
ripe apricots makes this wine vivid and refreshing.
Magellan Wine Imports. A.K.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
91
Forstreiter 2012 Tabor Die Raritt Reserve

Grner Veltliner (Kremstal). Ripe yellow
plums and juicy yellow pears signal richness that is
confirmed on the wonderfully textured, almost grippy palate. Fresh and zesty acidity saves this fullness
and gives a lipsmacking finish. Frederick Wildman
& Sons, Ltd. A.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
91
Hermann Moser 2012 Der Lss Reserve Gelbling Grner Veltliner (Kremstal). Barely there
but intriguing notes of pears draw you in first. The
soft body promises refreshment and rounded pleasure, with just enough phenolic texture and a hint of
salty minerality. Boutique Wine Collection. A.K.
abv: 14%
Price: $45
91
Hermann Moser 2012 Fortissimo Reserve Gelbling Grner Veltliner (Kremstal). Grapefruit
zest for now plays the starring role, but time will release riper stone fruit. Peppery edges already promise a great future, along with a long citrus finish.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
wonderful balance and length. Magellan Wine Imports. A.K.

abv: 14.5%
Price: $44
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Martinshof 2012 Reserve Grner Veltliner

(Weinviertel). Ripe Russet apples and a touch
of the earthy, calming smell of wet hay introduce
this rich, soft and supple white. Acidity tempers
the roundness and channels the luscious apple fruit
that has a pleasingly long but clean finish. Carlo Huber Selections. A.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
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R&A Pfaffl 2012 Hommage Reserve Grner

Veltliner (Weinviertel). Restrained notes of
woodsmoke play around hints of ripe yellow pear.
The palate boasts a backbone of acidity plus that famous varietal phenolic grip. Made for the long run,
the wine will turn out rich and layered. Drink from
2016. Palm Bay International. A.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
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Tegernseerhof 2012 Bergdistel Grner Veltliner Smaragd (Wachau). Aloe vera, green pear
peel and ripe Mirabelle plums charm nose and palate on the soft and ripe palate. Despite the ripeness
nothing is overdone and reaches a center of gravity.
KW Selection. A.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
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Mantlerhof 2012 Mosburgerin Reserve Grner

Veltliner (Kremstal). Ripe yellow pear, hazelnut and yeast form an alliance on nose and palate.
They take turns and swirl in this slender yet concentrated and textured wine. A long finish brings
breezy refreshment. T. Edward, The Age of Riesling.
A.K.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
Weixelbaum 2012 Ried Wechselberg Reserve

Grner Veltliner (Kamptal). Although the
wine is tightly wound, its ready to spring into
full-fruited apricot action. Mineral tautness runs
through this rich, concentrated and seriouslyminded white. Drink from 2016. Slocum & Sons,
Inc. A.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $19
BORDEAUX
MDOC
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Jger 2012 Federspiel Selection Grner Veltliner (Wachau). Conference pear and lemony
acidity produce a clean-cut mouthfeel and real refreshment factor. The wine is concentrated but also
is lean and soaring, supported by stony minerality.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
91
Josef Ehmoser 2012 Georgenberg Grner Veltliner (Wagram-Donauland). Touches of both

flint and flowers come to the surface, later joined by
gentle woodsmoke. All are held together with tight
acidity on a linear but broad body. This achieves
tannins, rich berry fruits and acidity. Drink from

2018. Wines & Beyond Import. Editors Choice.
R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $26
91
Chteau Potensac 2011 Mdoc. Coming from

the same stable as Loville las Cases in SaintJulien, the wine is finely structured with firm tannins and dark fruit. Rich plum flavors are counterbalanced by solid tannins. It needs to age, so drink
from 2018. Domaines Delon. Cellar Selection. R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
91
Chteau Preuillac 2011 Mdoc. A strong Merlot element has produced a ripe, juicy wine,
full of fruit balanced with a subtle use of wood. Its
a powerful, concentrated wine that has impressive
Chteau Grivire 2011 Mdoc. Complex and

solid, it holds rich berry fruits, a darkly
tannic structure, dense texture and a juicy acidity.
This firm wine has a good future, so dont drink before 2017. Niche Import Company. Editors Choice.
R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $24
Chteau La Branne 2011 Mdoc. While the
wine is dominated by flavors of wood aging,
it also has fine fruit weight that will come through.
Then it will be a powerful and concentrated wine,
rich and full of blackberry and black plum fruits.
The structure will keep this fruitiness in order.
Drink from 2017. BNP Distributing. Best Buy. R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
Chteau La Cardonne 2011 Mdoc. It shows
good weight, ripe fruit and well-judged
wood aging. Berry fruit flavors are supported by
dusty tannins and a dense texture. At the end, the
juicy acidity gives a shot of freshness. Age this wellbalanced wine and drink from 2017. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. Editors Choice. R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $24
Chteau la Gravette Lacombe 2011 Mdoc.

An obviously wood-aged wine, it has smoky
aromas and flavors that are covering the ripe blackberry fruits. Along with the firm tannins and structure, it makes for a rich, full wine that needs aging.
Drink from 2017. Specs. Editors Choice. R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $18
Chteau les Grands Chnes 2011 Mdoc. A
big, rich and juicy wine that is smooth and
full of black plum juice flavors. It brings out firm
tannins, ripe fruits and a generous texture. Its
dense, solid and ready for aging. Drink from 2017.
Bernard Magrez. Editors Choice. R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $22
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Chteau Lousteauneuf 2011 Mdoc. Dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a rich

and solid wine, perfumed as well as structured. The
ripe fruits are firmly tannic while also supporting
ripe black currant and berry fruits, and lively acidity. Age this wine and drink from 2017. R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
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Chteau Fontis 2011 Mdoc. Half-and-half

Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, this is a
dense and solidly tannic wine. It has a firm structure, ripe black currant juiciness and a dense texture. The flavors and richness promise good aging,
so drink from 2017. R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
89
Chteau Grand Bertin de Saint Clair 2011 Mdoc. While the wine shows plenty of wood
aging, dry flavors, it also has a good weight of fruit

and richness. That gives both structure and weight
that promise a good future. It has density, dusty
tannins and good power. Drink from 2016. Serge
Dor Selections. R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
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Chteau Les Trois Manoirs 2011 Mdoc. A

finely perfumed wine, it has rich berry
fruits, soft tannins and hints of spice from wood aging. It is well balanced, ripe and juicy. At the end,
fresh acidity comes through strongly. Drink from
2015. R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
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Chteau Chantemerle 2011 Mdoc. A serious wine that is full of dark tannins as well
as ripe berry fruits. It is dry, very firm, offering a
solid structure and concentration. It needs aging, so
drink from 2017. R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
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Chteau Clment Saint-Jean 2011 Mdoc.

While the tannins in this wine are firm and
dry, it also has attractive black fruitiness, sweet
berry flavors and a refreshing acidity. That gives
the wine balance and a lift. It is developing well but
needs time, so drink from 2017. Misa Imports. R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
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Chteau Escot 2011 Mdoc. While there are

firm tannins here, the wine also has rich
fruit. The two together, allied to the concentration,
promise some good aging for a solidly made wine.
Fine acidity cuts through in the aftertaste. Drink
from 2017. Sommit Selections. R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
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Chteau Greysac 2011 Mdoc. Showing considerable wood flavor, this wine has some
tough tannins to overcome before it really shows its
best. The fruit is ripe, full and packed with blackberry flavors. Once fully integrated, the wine should
reveal more of a luscious side. Drink from 2017. By
Wines. R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
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Chteau Haut Bana 2011 Mdoc. An elegant

wine, it has both fine structure and dense
red berry fruits. The ensemble is balanced, rich
while not overpowering. Drink this wine from 2016.
Simonin N Cellars. R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
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Chteau Leboscq 2011 Mdoc. Big, bold and

very fruity, this is a black-currant-dominated wine. Its full of broad brush strokes of acidity
and spice from wood aging. Still young, it needs to
be aged. Drink from 2016. USA Wine West. R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $18
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Chteau Lestruelle 2011 Mdoc. A perfumed

wine, its full of soft, ripe black fruits. Spice
and gentle tannins support the rich fruitiness. A
touch of wood gives bitterness at this stage, and
that needs to soften. The aftertaste though has the
freshness of the vintage. Serge Dor Selections.
R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $30
Chteau Beauvillage 2010 Mdoc. Showing
the richness and structure of the 2010 vintage, this is an opulent wine, full of black fruits. It
has a dark structure, smoky bacon flavors and powerful tannins. Ripe and generous, the fruit can cope
with this structure. It does need to age, so drink
from 2017. Serge Dor Selections. R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
Chteau Bessan Sgur 2011 Mdoc. Strong
wood aromas lead to a wine that is still very
young. The smoky wood character dominates the
red berry fruits and typical acidity of the vintage.
It does have the weight to develop well, so give this
structured wine until 2017. Grape News Importing.
R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
Chteau Blaignan 2011 Mdoc. Already an

easy, ripe wine, this is fruity, rich and developing well. Its black currant and berry fruits give
a sense of freshness, while smoky tannins suggest
structure. Its not powerful, but will be very enjoyable. Drink from 2017. Aquitaine Wine Company.
R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
Chteau les Anguilleys 2011 Mdoc. A fruity

and juicy wine, it also has a stalky, herbal
element. That gives a fresh character to the wine
while also showing lightness. The black currant
fruits are strong and forward, with a hint of maturity that suggests this is for medium-term aging.
Serge Dor Selections. R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $45
Chteau Pierre de Montignac 2011 Mdoc.

A gently perfumed wine, it has ripe, juicy
black-fruit flavors and a backing of tannins. Its balanced with the dry core surrounded by rich fruitiness and a burst of final acidity. It could be drunk
now, but will be better from 2016. Saranty Imports.
R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
Chteau Poitevin 2011 Mdoc. This is a bold,
ripe and fruity wine. It has rich black currant fruits, solid tannins and a dense texture. Very
aromatic, it is powered by its dry core that is showing signs of softening and rounding out. Drink from
2017. R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
Chteau Potensac 2011 Chapelle de Potensac

(Mdoc). Soft, round and juicy, this is a wine
meant to be drunk young. It has light tannins, fresh
with berry fruits and black currants. Drink now.
R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
87
Chteau Ramafort 2011 Mdoc. This perfumed wine is split equally between CaberWINEMAG.COM | 95
BUYINGGUIDE
net Sauvignon and Merlot. Its tannins, already softening, support a juicy, black currant flavor, with fine
acidity and a texture that only needs medium-term
aging. Drink from 2016. Baron Francois Ltd. R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $24
87
Chteau Tour Saint-Vincent 2011 Mdoc. Still

showing its wood aging, this is a complex
and ripe wine. It has weight, ripe berry fruits and
juicy acidity, all supported by a firm, dry tannic
structure. Its a wine for medium-term aging, so
abv: 13%
Price: $18
87
Chteau Tour Seran 2011 Mdoc. Blended by

top sommelier Andreas Larsson, this is a
smooth, plush wine, attractively balancing acidity
and black currant fruits with a core of smoky tannins. The wine has a fruity character, finished with
acidity and a light structure. Drink from 2016. By
Wines. R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $40
87
Goule 2011 Mdoc. Cos dEstournels Mdoc

property produces wines that are all fruit.
This is typical, a medley of black and red fruits on a
light bed of tannins. The downside is a rustic flavor
that needs to blow away. Give the wine until 2015.
R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
HAUT-MDOC
92
Chteau Bel Air 2011 Haut-Mdoc. In this

rich, full wine, impressive fruits and structure work together. It feels weighty, concentrated
and tannic while also having layers of juicy ripe
black currant fruits. Give this solid wine several
years and dont drink before 2018. Vino et Spiritus.
Editors Choice. R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $23
91
Chteau Beaumont 2011 Haut-Mdoc. An

impressive wine, it already shows signs of
its potential. It is elegant, with ripe fruits and layers of dark tannins. As it opens, blackberry fruits
come through strongly, balancing the firm structure.
Drink from 2018. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd.
R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
91
Chteau Clment-Pichon 2010 Haut-Mdoc.

The estate is under the same ownership as
Chteau la Dominique in Saint-milion. This dense
wine balances acidity with intense fruitiness. The
tannins are now softening, giving a rich structure
plus a concentrated leather and spice character.
Drink from 2016. K&L Wine Merchants. R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
91
Chteau Larose Perganson 2011 Haut-Mdoc.

Almost black in color, this is a solid, firm and
ripe wine. It has a smooth wood character that is
round and rich with black plum and berry fruit fla-
vors. With its dark underlying texture, it will age,

so drink from 2017. Votto Vines Importing. Editors
Choice. R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $40
91
Chteau Le Monteil dArsac 2011 Haut-Mdoc.

Produced by the same team as Margaux Chteau dArsac, this is a smooth, powerful wine. It
has firm tannins, a solid structure and black plum
fruits. Everything is in place for good aging. Drink
from 2017. R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
91
Chteau Malescasse 2011 Haut-Mdoc. It

combines rich fruit and complex layers of
wood and tannin. A concentrated wine, its packed
with ripe berry fruits, touches of licorice and dark
chocolate. A wine for aging, it needs to wait until
2018. Editors Choice. R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $19
91
Chteau Pontoise Cabarrus 2011 Haut-Mdoc.

Almost black, this dense wine is powered
by dusty tannins that underly the ripe black plum
fruits, intense juiciness and solid concentration.
The considerable wood does not spoil the fruitiness
of the wine. Drink from 2017. The Country VintnerCraft and Estate. Editors Choice. R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
90
Chteau Cissac 2011 Haut-Mdoc. This

much-improved chteau is now performing
well, as evidenced by this powerful and tannic wine.
Showing ripe fruits, sweet tannins and tight acidity,
it has weight, great spice from the wood aging and
a deliciously juicy aftertaste. Drink from 2017. Elite
Wines Import. Editors Choice. R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $25
90
Chteau dAgassac 2011 Haut-Mdoc. The

showpiece, moated Chteau of Agassac has
produced a luscious, fruity 2011. It has both juicy
blackberry fruits, warm tannins and just a core of
dryness to promise aging. Elegant, ripe and fragrant,
this wine should be drunk from 2017. MS Walker.
Editors Choice. R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $29
90
Chteau de Malleret 2011 Haut-Mdoc. A

ripe and fruity wine that displays the natural fruitiness of the vintage. It has weight, richness,
plenty of black currant and plum flavors. The structure is there, promising good aging potential. With
both fruit and dark tannins, it shouldnt be drunk
before 2017. Esprit du Vin. Editors Choice. R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
90
Chteau Devise dArdilley 2011 Haut-Mdoc.

A big, ripe and spicy wine, it is full of black
currant and berry flavors. The wood aging gives a
dry edge to the rich, juicy fruitiness. Its a strong,
full-bodied wine that will age. Drink from 2018.
Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Cellar Selection. R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
90
Chteau Meyre 2011 Haut-Mdoc. A smoky,

dusty textured wine, it has good swathes of
black fruits. It is rich and full in the mouth, lightly
perfumed and with juicy acidity. Blackberries partner the firm tannins of this solid wine with good
potential. Drink from 2017. R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
89
Chteau Bernadotte 2011 Haut-Mdoc.

Made by the same team as Chteau Pichon
Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, this wine is ripe,
full and satisfying. It has smooth red berry fruits
that are sustained by subtle wood aging and given a
final lift by the acidity. For medium-term aging, so
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
89
Chteau Charmail 2011 Haut-Mdoc. The

initial sense of structure is rounded out by
the ripe berry fruits. Its a dense wine, full of firm
tannins but with fine acidity, sweet fruitiness and
a sense of brooding power. It will be a rich wine,
so wait until 2018. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd.
R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
89
Chteau Doyac 2011 Haut-Mdoc. Dominated by Merlot (75%), this is a ripe and
smooth wine. At present, the 12-months wood aging
shows strongly, leaving behind the black fruits and
mineral texture. Its a wine for some serious aging,
so dont drink before 2018. Misa Imports. R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
89
Chteau Hanteillan 2011 Haut-Mdoc. The

wine is closed up at this stage, just showing structure and only hints of dark fruit. However,
there is a feeling of power and a dense texture that
need time to open up. The result is a wine full of potential, finishing with some juicy fruitiness. R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
89
Chteau Lestage Simon 2011 Haut-Mdoc.

This is a dark, young-colored wine, its
purple shade reflecting the dense wood and tanninladen flavors. It has spice and some bitter extract
but these are balanced by ripe blackberry fruits and
a rich texture. Drink from 2017. Advantage International. R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $29
89
Chteau Liversan 2011 Haut-Mdoc. A finely

integrated and ripe wine that is full of rich
fruits and solid, dusty tannins. It has good concentration, sweet black fruits and great acidity. It will
age well; drink from 2017. USA Wine West. R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
89
Chteau Saint-Paul 2011 Haut-Mdoc. This

wine, with its equal proportions of Merlot
and Cabernet Sauvignon, is full of potential. With
dark tannins and concentrated fruits, its a big wine
that needs years to show its underlying freshness.
Drink from 2018. R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
Clos la Bohme 2011 Haut-Mdoc. A dark

and dense wine, it is full of black juicy fruits
and has considerable weight. It shows some bitter
extract but this is counterbalanced by the rich,
blackberry juice flavors. It should be aged, so drink
from 2017. Chartrand Imports. R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
87
88
87
89
Chteau Bibian 2011 Haut-Mdoc. In this

still very young wine, the tannins dominate,
but the fruitiness is there to come out later. With
power, black fruits and touches of dark chocolate, it
will be a fine, rich wine. Drink from 2017. Leonard
Kreusch. R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
88
Chteau Cambon la Pelouse 2011 HautMdoc. This is a warm, soft and rich wine.
Coming from vines close to Margaux, it has something of the light touch of that appellation. Fruity,
with fresh berry fruits and already well-integrated
tannins, its likely to mature over the medium term.
Drink from 2016. Millsima USA. R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
88
Chteau Dasvin-Bel-Air 2011 Haut-Mdoc.

A big, ripe and smoky wine, it displays a
fruity, juicy undertow. It is developing well, giving
great black currant fruitiness, some dense tannins
and final acidity. Drink from 2017. DS Trading Co.
R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
Chteau Barreyres 2011 Haut-Mdoc. This is

a dry, structured wine, with dry tannins and
stalky fruit characteristics. However, it will develop
into a fruity wine without great depth but with attractive berry flavors and acidity. Drink from 2016.
Luneau USA Inc. R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $24
Chteau Belle-Vue 2011 Haut-Mdoc. Very
classic in style, it has firm tannins that come
before black currant fruits. Its structure is dry,
lightly smoky from wood aging and with a crisper
fruit character underneath. The tannins need to
soften before the wine can be drunk with pleasure,
so wait until 2017. Signature Selections. R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
87
Chteau de Gironville 2011 Haut-Mdoc. Ripe,

juicy and relatively soft, its a great wine for
early drinking. The black currant fruits are rich,
soft, just cut by the acidity and with smoky tannins
that lie comfortably underneath. Drink from 2016.
Signature Selections. R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $18
87
Chteau de Sainte-Gemme 2011 Haut-Mdoc.

A soft, gently fruity wine, it has warm tannins, layers of smooth vanilla from wood aging and
a finish that brings out the acidity of the vintage.
Fresh, fruity and ready to drink. Delbos Bouteiller.

R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
87
Chteau Haut-Bellevue 2011 Haut-Mdoc.

With a majority of Merlot in the blend, this
is a smooth and ripely rich wine. It has sweet berry
fruits, soft tannins and good juicy acidity. At this
stage, the wood shows strongly, but the fruit will
soon develop. Drink from 2016. Blue Coast International. R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
87
Chteau Hourtin-Ducasse 2011 Haut-Mdoc.

This wine is packed with fruit tannins and
dense black currant fruits. Its rich, structured, very
dry with its tannins and firm. Its a solid effort that
is going to develop well. Drink from 2017. Cutting
Edge Selections. R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
87
Chteau Maucamps 2011 Haut-Mdoc. A firm

and structured wine, it has solid tannins
to partner the black currant fruits. A bitter flavor
comes from extraction, giving a burnt character that
spoils this big wine. Drink from 2017. DS Trading
Co. R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
88
Chteau de Braude 2011 Haut-Mdoc. A

wood-laden wine, it still manages to bring
out its inherent fruitiness. Its a ripe wine, showing
spice from the wood and juicy blackberry flavors,
well packaged and finished off with acidity. Drink
this attractive wine from 2016. R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $24
88
Chteau La Lauzette 2011 Bordeaux-style

Red Blend (Haut-Mdoc). A firm and fruity
wine, it has subtle wood flavors that give a polished
feel. It is finely integrated, ripe with red berry fruits
and black plum skins and likely to age over the medium term. Drink from 2016. R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
88
Chteau Lacour Jacquet 2011 Haut-Mdoc.

This is a warm and ripe wine with rounded
berry fruits, soft tannins and layers of wood aging. It
has a full, juicy character contrasted with a mineral
texture that gives some edginess. It is still young, so
dont drink before 2017. R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
88
Chteau Ramage la Batisse 2011 HautMdoc. A firmly tannic wine, dry and concentrated, it will require aging. The juicy red berry
fruits and acidity will need time to show through
the powerful structure. Give it until 2018. Vintage
Imports, Inc. R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $54
WINEMAG.COM | 97
BUYINGGUIDE
87
Chteau Peyrat-Fourthon 2011 Haut-Mdoc.

While the wood-aging flavors are strong and
prominent, so is the ripe, berry fruit. That gives the
wine a potential balance that will bring out richness, spice and freshness typical of the vintage.
Drink from 2017. Free Run Partners, LLC. R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
87
Chteau Reysson 2011 Haut-Mdoc. Rich already, this wine is darkly tannic and powered by solid tannins. The weight of fruit behind
the tannins also brings out acidity and black currant flavors. It will remain dry but well structured
and with good fruitiness. Drink from 2017. Thinot
USA. R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
87
Chteau Sociando-Mallet 2010 LAutre de

Sociando-Mallet (Haut-Mdoc). A second
wine from Sociando-Mallet, this is ripe, soft and
generously fruity. It has red berry fruits and a gentle
structure that brings out some warm tannins. Its
ready to drink. Victoire Imports. R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
SPAIN
RAS BAIXAS
91
Granbazn 2012 Etiqueta mbar Albario

(Ras Baixas). In a solid vintage like 2012,
there are always many good Albarios to choose
from, but this one rises above the masses. Flower
blossom and peach aromas are minerally and tight.
In the mouth, the acidity is peachy more than citric,
while flavors of nectarine and clementines finish
with persistence. Drink now. Europvin USA. Editors Choice. M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $23
90
Granbazn 2012 Etiqueta Verde Albario

(Ras Baixas). Dry white-fruit aromas come
with nuances of cured Spanish ham and flower
blossoms. This feels round and minerally, with a
slight bit of spritz. Flavors of stone fruits and nottoo-sweet mango end with additional minerality.
Europvin USA. M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $18
89
Fillaboa 2012 Albario (Ras Baixas). Typical apple and straw aromas are ripe and
pure. In the mouth, this is lean, racy and spritzy,
with elegance and fine lines. Flavors of pineapple,
nectarine and pink grapefruit finish on a wave of
citric acidity. Folio Fine Wine Partners. M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20
89
Pazo de Seorans 2012 Albario (Ras Baixas). Melon, apricot and leesy vanilla notes
work the bouquet on this juicy, fruit-forward white.
In the mouth, this perennial favorite is citrusy and
tight, with less creamy lees action than in years
past. Flavors of nectarine, citrus and pith finish

with force. European Cellars. M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $25
through 2025. Grapes of Spain. Cellar Selection.

M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $90
89
91
Val do Sosego 2012 Albario (Ras Baixas).

With proper doses of orange rind, vanilla,
minerality and melon on the nose, this opens in very
good form. The palate is round, pithy and citric in
feel, while flavors of white grapefruit, orange and
melon finish with a mild oily mouthfeel and a touch
of bitterness. Saranty Imports. M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $17
88
Condes de Albarei 2012 Salneval Albario

(Ras Baixas). Vanilla wafer, dusty apple
and minerality combine to form a clean, true Albario bouquet. The mouthfeel is solid, with acidic
kick, while flavors of pastry, citrus, apple and spice
meld nicely in front of a long, fresh finish thats neither pointed nor acidic. CIV/USA. M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $16
88
Maior de Mendoza 2012 Argos Albario (Ras

Baixas). Melon, peach, leesy vanilla and
mineral aromas are what you want from this type of
wine. The palate is juicy and fresh, with nectarine,
orange and pineapple flavors. A racy finish is confirmation of this Albarios zesty character. Beacon
Wine Company. M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20
88
Martn Cdax 2012 Albario (Ras Baixas).

For full review see page 77.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
88
Zarate 2012 Albario (Ras Baixas). This

shows stalky, corny notes on the nose along
with mineral and white-fruit scents. Theres a lemony quality to an otherwise neutral palate, while
saline, lemon and mild but increasing bitterness
control the flavor profile and finish. Domaine Select
Wine Estates. M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $25
85
Lusco 2012 Albario (Ras Baixas). After a

flabby, gaseous and sulfuric opening, this
moves on to a full, almost oily palate with citrus flavors, primarily grapefruit. Dried papaya notes and
mild oxidation take over on the finish. Opici Wines.
M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $35
RIBERA DEL DUERO
93
Astrales 2010 Christina (Ribera del Duero).

This dynamite Tempranillo hails from a top
producer and a top vintage. Aromas of toasty oak,
graphite, coffee and blackberry feed into a rugged
but generous palate fueled by firm tannins. Dark,
toasty flavors of blackberry, cassis and chocolate finish long, with mild heat and menthol notes
that suggest aging is appropriate. Drink from 2015
Portia 2010 Triennia de Bodegas Portia Roble

(Ribera del Duero). For full review see page
75.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $75
91
Via Mayor 2010 Secreto Vendimia Seleccionada (Ribera del Duero). Raspberry and plum
aromas are clean and welcoming. This is a firm,
well-built wine, with crisp acidity and solid but not
grating tannins. Flavors of toast, chocolate, blackberry and plum precede a chocolaty, warm, cushioned finish. Drink through 2018. Habarcelo North
America. M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
90
Emilio Moro 2010 Ribera del Duero. Aromas

of dried cheese, iodine and candied fruits
settle with airing. In the mouth, this is firm and tannic, with savory, oaky flavors of hickory, blackened
toast and roasted berry fruits. On the finish, theres
both weight and elegance. Best from 2015 through
2020. Michael Skurnik Wines. M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
90
Legaris 2010 Crianza (Ribera del Duero).

Smoky, toasty aromas ride comfortably on
top of blackberry and cassis scents. This is a tannic,
pinched wine with plenty of structure. Loamy berry
flavors come with ample but not overpowering oak
notes, while the finish is firm, healthy and tight.
Drink through 2020. Aveni Brands, Inc. M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $27
RIOJA
93
Marqus de Murrieta 2009 Dalmau (Rioja).

Lusty blackberry and cassis aromas ride
onto a balanced, fresh palate, while flavors of red
berry, chocolate, fig and various spices finish nicely,
with a tobacco-like note. This could use another
year or so to settle; drink from 2015 on. Maisons
Marques & Domaines USA. Cellar Selection. M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $69
92
Artadi 2009 Pagos Viejos (Rioja). Minerally

aromas of iodine, charred beef and burnt
coffee are dark and smoky. This modern, smoothbodied Rioja is freindly and complete on the palate,
while flavors of dark berries, prune, chocolate and
espresso push things in the direction of jammy. This
is ripe to the max, with loads of fruit and flavor but
a soft structure. Drink through 2020. Folio Fine
Wine Partners. M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $100
91
Bodegas Tobia 2009 Alma Tobia (Rioja).

Black plum, licorice and cool green-herb aromas rest in front of a full-bodied, tannic, chunky
palate. Flavors of herbal black fruits come with a
salty edge and a meaty underbelly. A long, rolling,
deep finish is encouraging and stout. Best from

20182024. Patagonia Wine & Imports, LLC. Cellar
Selection. M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $48
91
Vallobera 2009 Terran de Vallobera (Rioja).

Bold berry, plum and floral notes are welcoming. This feels full and smooth, with weight and integrated yet present tannins. A ripe, creamy palate
delivers a load of berry fruit touched up by mocha,
while a vanilla note sweetens and softens the finish.
Axial Wines USA. M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $50
90
Bodegas Tobia 2007 Oscar Tobia Reserva

(Rioja). This is a blocky, big Rioja, with coffee, earth and slightly stewed aromas that suggest
warmth and ripeness. A deep, saturated palate is
round and a touch jagged, while fig, prune and baked
berry flavors finish earthy, slightly pruny and round.
Drink this ripe wine now through 2017. Patagonia
Wine & Imports, LLC. M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $28
89
Finca del Marquesado 2006 Reserva (Rioja).

Direct blackberry and cassis aromas are on
the dark side and inviting. This feels fresh and a
touch wiry, while flavors of vanilla, tobacco, brandied cherry and plum are traditional and true to the
region. Finishing flavors of clove and spice run dry
and toasty. CIV/USA. M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
89
Marqus de Cceres 2007 Reserva Especial

Edicin Limitada (Rioja). Dense black-fruit
aromas are potent but limited in scope and elegance. In the mouth, this is saturated, creamy and
oaky. Flavors of loamy, roasted berry fruits have a
gamy, salty backing, while the finish is grabby, ripe
and roasted in character. Drink through 2018. Vineyard Brands. M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $26
89
Bodegas Valdemar 2007 Conde de Valdemar

Reserva (Rioja). For full review see page 76.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $24
Via Salceda 2007 Reserva (Rioja). Dry berry, tobacco, herb and vanilla aromas create
a classic Rioja nose. This is a direct, focused wine,
with cherry and plum flavors backed by loam, vanilla and earthy notes. The finish is medium in intensity, with length and smooth tannins. Drink this
easy-to-like wine now. M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
90
88
90
Contino 2009 Single Vineyard Graciano

(Rioja). Judged against other modern,
very ripe 2009 Rioja wines, this Graciano is austere. Minerally, gritty black-fruit aromas give way
to a juicy, hard-driving, high-acid palate, with salty,
roasted black-fruit flavors. A shearing finish with
saline notes and zesty acidity is what you get from
this single-vineyard varietal wine. Europvin USA.
M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $130
90
CVNE 2005 Imperial Gran Reserva (Rioja).

Hailing from a warm year, this wine is still
a brute. Smoky, rubbery aromas of cassis and strawberry vascilate between ripe and candied. This is
full-volume, even pushy, on the palate, with blazing
acidity and rocky, spicy, peppery berry flavors. Let
this rest at least another five years; revisit in 2019
2020. Europvin USA. Cellar Selection. M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $60
90
Via Herminia 2006 Reserva (Rioja). Sturdy

black plum aromas feed into a dense, juicy,
secure palate, with deep flavors of blackberry and
loamy plum. The finish is smooth, mature and pure,
with lasting berry flavors and integrated oak. Drink
now. Europvin USA. M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
89
CVNE 2007 Imperial Reserva (Rioja). Cherry

aromas are firm and dont evolve much in
the glass. This is intense on the palate, with strong
acidity that lends tartness to sinewy plum and berry
flavors. Minor accents of spice and toast finish with
espresso bitterness. Drink through 2020. Europvin
USA. M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $40
Carlos Serres 2007 Reserva (Rioja). Light

touches of dill and mint accent earthy redberry aromas. This is firm and healthy in the mouth,
but generic as a whole. Flavors of berry fruits are
anonymous, with briny, salty notes. Rasbperry and
a touch of saline is what pushes the finish. Drink
through 2017. Testa Wines Of The World. M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
88
CVNE 2007 Via Real Oro Reserva (Rioja).

Minerality and rosy notes of talcum powder
and raspberry are red in character. In the mouth,
this is tight as nails. Flavors of red fruits are tart
due to blazing acidity, while blackened notes of
toast and espresso fill out the finish. Drink through
2020. Europvin USA. M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
88
Faustino Rivero Ulecia 2006 Black Label

Reserva (Rioja). Plum, berry and a pinch of
hard rubber make up the nose on this maturing Rioja. The mouth is firm and mildly astringent, while
lightly baked, malty flavors of berry fruits and saline
finish tight and with a lasting salty impression. Vinaio Imports. M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $14
87
Dinasta Vivanco 2009 Coleccin Vivanco

Parcelas Maturana (Rioja). Judged against
more familiar varietal wines, this Maturana comes
across as unusual, but not bad. Herbal aromas of
juniper and briny berry are typical for the grape.
Flavors of stewed blueberry, juniper and herbs are
naturally green-leaning and a bit odd. This is something to explore. Opici Wines. M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $90
WINEMAG.COM | 99
BUYINGGUIDE
85
Carlos Serres 2007 Onomastica Reserva

(Rioja). Bring on the funk! This smells
unsure and soapy, while the palate feels hard and
spiky. Flavors of black cherry and bitter greens
come with a woody lift, while the finish is abrasive
and a bit hot. The 2004 version of Onomastica was
better. Testa Wines Of The World. M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
PRIORAT
92
Clos Figueras 2009 Font de la Figuera (Priorat). Cherry, cassis and plum aromas are
clean as polished glass. This feels fruity and firm,
with good flow. Peppery blackberry and minerally
cassis are the lead flavors, whiile the finish brings
schisty minerality and integrated but noted acidity.
Best from 20162019. Europvin USA. Cellar Selection. M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
91
Cellers Uni 2009 Roureda Llicorella Gran Selecci Vitis 60 (Priorat). Jammy, ripe blueberry and blackberry aromas belie a crisp, tight palate,
with wild berry, licorice and peppery flavors. This
is fresh, wiry, firmly structured and alert as well as
comfortable and controlled. Think classic Priorat
to drink through 2018. Monsieur Touton Selection
Ltd. M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $33
91
Scala Dei 2009 Prior (Priorat). Minerally and

focused on the nose, this smells of stony red
fruits, oak and spice. In the mouth, Prior is firm,
ripe and schisty. Flavors of minerally black fruits
finish direct, long and pure, with character. Drink
this handsome wine now through 2019. Aveni
Brands, Inc. M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $27
fruit scents. This is a tannic, grippy monster with

a mix of licorice, medicinal and black-fruit flavors.
The finish is staunch and tannic, with creamy oak
notes and a borderline syrupy feel. Drink from 2016
through 2025. Europvin USA. Cellar Selection.
M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $120
92
Dominio Dostares 2007 Cumal Prieto Picudo

(Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y Len). Prieto
Picudo is largely an unknown variety with a propensity for yielding weird wines. But this offering
is made cleanly, and in an internationally familiar
style. Aromas of licorice root, tobacco and cedar rest
atop a base of black-fruit scents. The palate is juicy
and tannic, while plum and berry flavors are surrounded by mocha, coffee and graphite notes. Drink
or hold through 2018. Opici Wines. M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $48
92
Mauro 2010 Red (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla

y Len). This firm Tempranillo-led blend
is meaty and leathery on the nose, with minerally
black-fruit scents. The palate is wide and tannic,
while flavors of blackberry, cassis and chocolate
flow into the toasty finish alongside solid but not
fierce tannins. Give this another couple of years;
best from 2016 through 2022. Europvin USA. Cellar Selection. M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $48
86
Mas de Subir 2009 Priorat. Stalky, somewhat rubbery aromas of plum and berry
come in front of the grabby, tannic, staunch palate, with baked, leathery flavors of plum and berry.
While this tastes stalky on the finish, the feel is
good. Freixenet USA. M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $30
TIERRA DE CASTILLA Y LEN
92
Abadia Retuerta 2010 Pago Negralada

Tempranillo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y
Len). Feral, rustic aromas of sweaty leather, tar,
animal hide and dried cheese override core berry
87
Paso a Paso 2012 Made with Organic Grapes

Tempranillo (La Mancha). Big black-fruit
aromas of plum and wild berry get this young Tempranillo off to a good start. This feels juicy and as
fresh as basic Spanish red wine gets; flavors of
blackberry, dark plum and a hint of chocolate are
rolled into one and finish clean. Jorge Ordoez Selections. Best Buy. M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
86
Gran Castillo Royal 2008 Crianza Tempranillo (La Mancha). Friendly but standard aromas of berry fruits and creamy oak set up a mature,
earthy feeling plate, with berry and coffee flavors. A
soft, aged, mature finish is earthy in character and
ultimately a bit hollow. Ecu Imports. M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
85
LA MANCHA
89
Manuel Manzaneque Surez 2012 Ea! Tempranillo (La Mancha). Fruity and balanced
up front, this is juicy and fresh on the palate, and
just the slightest bit rich and chewy. Loamy darkberry fruit flavors are matched by chocolate and
bitter coffee notes, while the finish is mellow, toasty
and dark. Grapes of Spain. M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $21
88
Paso a Paso 2012 Tempranillo (La Mancha).

Robust black-fruit aromas suggest plum
and blackberry. This everyday red is concentrated,
generous and packed with power. Flavors of dark
berry fruits, chocolate and espresso finish with
verve and clarity. Jorge Ordoez Selections. Best
Buy. M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $9
87
Gran Castillo Royal 2008 Reserva Tempranillo (La Mancha). Dusty aromas of plum and
cherry come with a slight note of celery leaf. This
J. Garcia Carrion 2012 pera Prima Shiraz (La

Mancha). For full review see page 79. Best
Buy.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $7
ARGENTINA
90
Abadia Retuerta 2010 Pago Gardua Syrah

(Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y Len). Animal
fur, roasted fruit and coffee grinds are the key aromas on this hefty, warm Syrah. In the mouth, this
has a bullish, tannic personna. Flavors of baked
berry fruits, herbs and ink finish with resiny oak
and herbal-lactic notes alongside powerful tannins.
Europvin USA. M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $120
90
Los 800 2009 Priorat. After initial sharp,

citric aromas, this settles on minerally redfruit scents. The palate is compact and tight, with
fresh acidity and a good body. Flavors of cherry,
cassis and raspberry feed into a firm finish thats
honest and appealing. Drink through 2017. Grapes
of Spain. M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $22
Tempranillo is crisp, direct and tangy on the palate,

with racy cherry and plum flavors that bring a touch
of licorice. The finish is long, juicy and plummy. Ecu
Imports. M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $23
CHARDONNAY
86
Via Cobos 2013 Felino Chardonnay (Mendoza). Dusty apricot and melon aromas come
with plenty of oak and vanilla. The palate is on the
flat and creamy side, with peachy acidity. Flavors of
mild citrus, vanilla and wood resin finish with additional vanilla notes and a hint of papaya. Paul Hobbs
Wines. M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $18
85
Salentein 2013 Portillo Estate Bottled Chardonnay (Uco Valley). Basic apple and citrus
aromas are dusty and straightforward. This feels
citrusy and fresh, with little to no oak. Flavors of
nectarine, white grapefruit and orange finish firm
and fresh. Palm Bay International. M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
84
Domaine Jean Bousquet 2013 Made With Organically Grown Grapes Chardonnay (Tupungato). Apple and pear aromas are mildly oaky and
basic. The palate offers some creaminess in front of
short flavors of melon and papaya that finish hollow
and with a touch of banana. Domaine Jean Bousquet. M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
84
Zuccardi 2012 Serie A Chardonnay (Uco Valley). Tropical fruit and vanilla-cookie aromas come with a note of nectarine. This feels juicy,
racy and citric, with flavors of tangerine and nec-
tarine. Despite having tangy acidity, the wine turns

heavy on the finish. Winesellers Ltd. M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
TORRONTS
88
Durigutti 2013 Torronts (Mendoza). Aromas of tangerine and tropical fruits are
clean as a whistle. This feels juicy and fresh as a
mountain stream. Flavors of citrus are slightly pithy
and bitter, while the finish flows on a beam of acidity toward a clean ending. Southern Wine Group.
Best Buy. M.S.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $13
side, with ample acidity. Flavors of stone fruits and

papaya finish briny. Tarasi Wineries. M.S.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $15
84
Salentein 2013 Portillo Estate Bottled Sauvignon Blanc (Uco Valley). A combination
of white-fruit, citrus and matchstick aromas set up
a light-bodied, wan-tasting SB. This offers flavors
of nectarine, citrus and underripe mango in front
of a cleansing, citric finish. Palm Bay International.
M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
84
Mendel 2013 Semillon (Mendoza). A mix

of tropical-fruit aromas blend with nutty,
reduced scents that are harsh. This is bolstered by
juicy, citric acids. The flavor profile is nutty and
throws in blasts of green banana and papaya. Bitterness and oiliness characterize the finish. Vine Connections. M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
86
Santa Julia 2013 [+] Torronts (Mendoza).

Light, airy aromas of tropical fruits and kaffir lime are modest. In the mouth, the wine is tight
and chalky. Flavors of lime, lychee and green apple
finish firm, with nice acidity and a slight oily character. Winesellers Ltd. Best Buy. M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
86
Valentin Bianchi 2013 Leo Torronts (Mendoza). This is a mild, neutral Torronts
with yeasty notes and hints of tropical fruits. The
palate is smooth but simple, while flavors of melon
and green papaya finish with lingering lychee notes.
Overall this is plump, fresh and good. Quintessential Wines. M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $17
85
Zuccardi 2013 Serie A Torronts (Salta).

Crisp, minerally aromas suggest citrus pith
and saltiness. This feels bright and zesty as it dances on the palate. Flavors of tropical fruits, lychee
and melon are generic and turn slightly bitter on
the finish. Winesellers Ltd. M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
84
Fat Gaucho 2012 Reserva Torronts (Mendoza). Ocean water and green banana are the
lead aromas on this mostly neutral white. A light
body with modest structure houses lime and tangerine flavors. The finish is juicy in feel but turns
bitter as it rolls out. Fat Gaucho Wines, LLC. M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
OTHER WHITE WINES
86
Mil Piedras 2013 Viognier (Vista Flores).

Light, clean, fresh aromas of tropical fruits
and lychee resemble those of a Torronts. The palate is light and mild, while flavors of melon, lychee
and citrus pith are forward but dont come with a
lot of backing or complexity. Cannon Wines Limited. M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $13
85
Bodega Carmine Granata 2013 Estate Bottled Semillon (Mendoza). Nectarine, peach
pit and a dusty, oily scent define the nose on this
mid-level, quaffable white. The body is on the plump
WINEMAG.COM | 101
BUYINGGUIDE
MALBEC
93
SignoSeis 2011 The Angel Oak Reserva Malbec (Valle de Uco). For full review see page
73. Editors Choice.
abv: 15.3%
Price: $50
92
Kaiken 2009 Mai Malbec (Mendoza). This

high-end Malbec defines maximum ripeness combined with balance. The color is opaque
purple, the texture is chewy and silky, and the nose
pumps out aromas of raisin, baked berry, pastry and
chocolate. Flavors of herbs, baked berry, spice and
generous oak land on a toasted, loamy, full-fruit finish thats heavy but luxurious. Drink through 2016.
TGIC Importers. M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $90
92
TintoNegro 2012 1955 Vineyard Estate

Grown Malbec (Mendoza). For full review
see page 75.
abv: 14%
Price: $100
92
Trivento 2010 Golden Reserve Malbec (Lujn

de Cuyo). Aromas of ripe blackberry, prune
and minerality are upright and intense. The palate
is lush, smooth and balanced, while blackberry and
cassis lead the flavor assault. A deep, long and delicious finish confirms that this wine offes great value
for just over $20. Excelsior Wines. Editors Choice.
M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $21
91
Los Vencejos 2010 Malbec (Uco Valley). Floral hints, latex, vanilla, oak and ripe berry
aromas all show up on a fine bouquet. Ripe and
creamy in feel, it holds dark, hard-pushing flavors of
licorice, anise, coffee and blackberry. Theres agility, elegance and complexity to this Malbec. Drink
through 2017. Two Pines LLC. M.S.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $24
91
TeHo 2012 Malbec (Mendoza). Blackberry,

blueberry and creamy vanilla aromas comprise a sweet, chunky, very ripe bouquet. The
mouthfeel is full, succulent and bouncy, while flavors of creamy oak, baking spices and black fruits
finish with juicy acidity and plenty of wood, chocolate and licorice notes. 150 cases made; drink
through 2018. Vino Del Sol. M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $95
additional chocolate richness. Drink through 2018.

Excelsior Wines. M.S.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $79
carry the finish on this ready-to-drink Malbec. Two

Pines LLC. M.S.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $23
90
89
90
88
DiamAndes 2011 de Uco Malbec (Uco Valley). Chunky, slightly rubbery aromas revolve around black fruits and oak. This is a dense,
thick wine with blackberry, plum, fig and bitter
chocolate flavors. The finish is dark and weighty in
this meaty Malbec. Wineberry America LLC. M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
Fabre Montmayou 2011 Phebus Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). Solid plum and berry aromas come with mild chocolaty oak scents, while the
palate is ripe and pure, with just enough beefy volume. Flavors of blackberry, mixed spices and herbal
notes finish long and nice. Saranty Imports. M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $18
90
Finca Lalande 2012 Made with organically

grown grapes Malbec (Tupungato). This
wonderful under-$20 Malbec opens with a blast
of black-fruit aromas as well as mild rubber scents
and minerality. The palate is solid, with baked berry
and integrated saline and mineral flavors. A bright,
lively finish with a ton of berry essence closes this
out. Domaine Bousquet. M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $17
90
Trapiche 2010 Finca Las Palmas Gran Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). Dusty, creamy aromas of milk chocolate are sweet, oaky and confected. In the mouth, this Malbec is rich and smooth,
but also lactic and creamy. Flavors of oak-driven
vanilla are backed by ripe, syrupy berry flavors, ink
and graphite. The Wine Group. M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $21
90
ZaHa 2012 Malbec (Mendoza). Candied berry and sweet oak are draped all over a ripe,
rich nose. This is bright, fruity and cleanly made.
Flavors of blueberry and cassis run sweet and oaky,
while milk chocolate and residual berry fruit push
the finish. The wine balances oakiness and sweetness. Vino Del Sol. M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $65
89
Buy.
abv: 14.5%
TintoNegro 2012 Finca la Escuela Estate

Grown Malbec (Mendoza). For full review see
page 76.
abv: 14%
Price: $50
91
89
91
89
Trivento 2010 Eolo Malbec (Lujn de Cuyo).

Dark in color, then jammy on the nose, this
oaky specimen has heavily extracted berry aromas.
In the mouth, theres a level of freshness offset by
heavy fruit content. Flavors of berry and plum are
chocolaty up front and finish with spice, pepper and
Finca El Origen 2012 Reserva Malbec (Uco

Valley). For full review see page 78. Best
Valentin Bianchi 2011 Famiglia Bianchi Malbec (San Rafael). Dark berry and lemony
oak lead the aromas on this barrel-driven Malbec.
In the mouth, its resiny and creamy, while blackberry and woody flavors yield to caf mocha. A
resiny finish is loaded with overt oak character.
Drink through 2018. Quintessential Wines. M.S.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $19
Domaine Jean Bousquet 2012 Reserve Malbec (Tupungato). Dark fruit and rubbery
aromas set up a full-bodied, easygoing palate with
depth and mild acidity. This Malbec is pumped full
of wild berry, plum and chocolate flavors, while oak,
peppery spice and more chocolate work a balanced,
healthy finish. Domaine Bousquet. M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $18
88
Juana de Sol 2011 Reserva Single Vineyard

Malbec (Mendoza). Toasty, minerally notes
accent berry fruit aromas. In the mouth, it is fresh,
crisp and medium in weight. Flavors of black fruits
and oak are the slightest bit forced and medicinal,
while the finish is balanced. Metrowine Distribution. M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
88
Trapiche 2012 Oak Cask Malbec (Mendoza).

For full review see page 78. Best Buy.
abv: 14%
Price: $10
87
Cupcake 2011 Malbec (Mendoza). Raspberry,

cherry and plum aromas are fresh but a bit
raw. Racy and clean on the palate, it has ripe, sweetleaning flavors of blackberry and cherry. A slightly
oaky, resiny finish with a chocolate flavor is appropriate. The Wine Group. M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
87
Domaine Jean Bousquet 2012 Made With Organically Grown Grapes Malbec (Mendoza).
Rubbery, spicy berry fruit aromas carry a note of
salinity. The wine is boldly structured, with hard
tannins. Roast plum, blackberry and spice flavors
lean toward syrupy, while a generous finish delivers
ending power. Domaine Jean Bousquet. M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
Price: $12
Franois Lurton 2012 Piedra Negra Alta Coleccin Malbec (Mendoza). For full review
see page 78. Best Buy.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
Los Vencejos 2009 Malbec (Uco Valley). Generic berry aromas combined with oak and
bath soap scents set up a jammy, soft, chunky palate with baked berry, plum, loam and savory flavors.
Licorice, baked berry and an overriding ripeness
87
Espuela del Gaucho 2012 Reserve Limited Edition Malbec (Mendoza). Blackberry and cassis aromas rest on top of an oaky base that brings a
whiff of graham cracker to the game. The palate runs
more snappy, with raw acidity providing pulse to
otherwise loamy flavors of baked berry and cherry.
A toasty, woody element reasserts itself on the finish. Winery Exchange. M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
87
Sottano 2012 Malbec (Mendoza). Earthy

berry aromas come with a touch of compost
and rubber. This feels juicy, racy and slick, with
red plum and raspberry leading the flavor charge. A

fresh, lightly herbal finish is the final act. Dangerous
Wine Group. M.S.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $16
87
Valentin Bianchi 2011 Malbec (Mendoza).

Slightly scratchy plum and berry aromas
blend in a touch of green herbs along with chocolaty notes. This feels solid and full. Flavors of cassis,
raspberry, herbs and cured meat lead to a slightly
medicinal finish, with peppery spice notes. Quintessential Wines. M.S.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $13
86
Acorden 2011 Malbec (Tupungato). For full

review see page 79. Best Buy.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $9
86
Argento 2011 Malbec (Mendoza). Minty,

herbal, lightly stalky aromas of plum and
cherry lead to a blocky-feeling palate with lactic
flavors of resiny plum and vanilla. Creaminess on
the finish creates an almost cloying feel, while berry
fruit leftovers run sweet. Distinguished Vineyards &
Wine Partners. M.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $14
86
Conquista 2012 Malbec (Mendoza). For full

review see page 79. Best Buy.
abv: 13%
Price: $9
86
Conquista 2011 Oak Cask Malbec (Mendoza).

Red-fruit aromas operate solo on the bouquet. This feels tight, crisp and fresh, with plum,
berry and peppery spice flavors. A dry, slightly abrasive and scratchy finish deals juiciness and lasting
red-fruit flavors. Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy.
M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
86
Lamadrid 2009 Single Vineyard Gran Reserva Malbec (Agrelo). Stewy, baked aromas of
raisin and prune boldly announce that this Malbec is
ripe to the point of overripe. The palate is syrupy and
soft; cooked, baked flavors of blackberry syrup finish
sticky, stewy and slightly bitter. Vino Del Sol. M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
CABERNET SAUVIGNON
90
Mascota 2011 La Mascota Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Aromas of graphite,

lavender, licorice and cocoa accent core scents of
blackberry on this nicely balanced value Cabernet.
The palate is ripe, well oaked and deep, while flavors
of toast, chocolate, baking spices and fruitcake finish with good feel and character. PL360 Beverage
Partners. Best Buy. M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
89
Hubert Weber 2007 Cellar Selection Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). This aged Cabernet is mild, mellow and earthy on the nose, with
aromas of tobacco and baked berry fruits. Acidity is
pronounced on the palate; after that theres a mix of

spice, cherry and cassis flavors. Loud acidity on the
finish freshens things up while creating citric scour.
Drink now. Maximus Vinum. M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $42
89
Trapiche 2011 Broquel Cabernet Sauvignon

(Mendoza). Narrow berry aromas are
straightforward but not complex. This is a smooth
operator with round tannins, plenty of body and a
mix of black fruits, licorice, herbs and spices on the
flavor profile. Flavors turn more herbal on the finish, where oregano and thyme accent tastes of cassis
and berry. The Wine Group. M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
86
Finca Los Maza 2011 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). On the plus side, this is a
full-bodied, ripe Cab with smooth tannins and not
much bite. On the other hand, its prune-driven and
stewy on the nose, palate and finish, which disrupt
overall balance. Total Wine & More. M.S.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $14
BONARDA
89
El Enemigo 2011 Bonarda (Mendoza). Ripe,

floral aromas of blackberry and minerals
filter into a grapy, grabby palate. Flavors of iodine,
licorice, black plum and cassis finish salty and
leathery tasting, with a firm tannic grip and rubbery
notes. This is short on refinement but generous in
terms of body and fruit content. Winebow. M.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $20
88
Trapiche 2011 Broquel Bonarda (Mendoza).

A full-bodied, dark and meaty wine, it has
ripe blackberry and cassis aromas. While lush upfront, its more racy and lively in the mouth, where
a streak of acidity keeps things moving along. Flavors of saline and earthy blackberry finish roasted,
chunky and still a touch salty in flavor. The Wine
Group. M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
85
Ruca Malen 2011 Yauquen Bonarda (Mendoza). Latex, leather and asphalt aromas compete with berry aromas on what amounts to a hard,
tough nose. Narrow in the mouth, with tomato-like
acidity, this tastes woody and salty, with modest
berry flavors. Opici Wines. M.S.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $14
RED BLENDS
93
Durigutti 2009 10 Aos Edicin Limitada

(Mendoza). With an opaque color and huge
aromas of graphite, blackberry, cassis and creamy
oak, this epitomizes modern Argentinean wine. The
palate on this Malbec-and-Cabernet-Franc-driven
blend is weighty, relaxed and deep. Flavors of baked
blackberry, cassis and plum come with herb, chocolate and spice accents. Look for additional oak and
WINEMAG.COM | 103
BUYINGGUIDE
chocolate on the chewy but smooth finish. Drink
through 2018. Southern Wine Group. Editors
Choice. M.S.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $60
93
El Enemigo 2010 Gran Enemigo (Mendoza).

With huge amounts of graphite, toast, wood
grain, blueberry and blackberry aromas, this Cabernet Franc-led blend (with Malbec and Petit Verdot)
is solid as granite, with a layered structure. Flavors
of blackberry, chocolate and herbs dance together,
while the finish is long, dark, minty and chocolaty.
Best from 2016 through 2022. Winebow. Cellar Selection. M.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $90
91
Durigutti 2009 Familia (Mendoza). Loamy,

rich, baked aromas of blackberry and cassis
sit on the precipice of jammy and raisiny. In the
mouth, tartaric acid sticks out, creating a tolerable inbalance between raisiny fruit and pushy zest.
Meanwhile, flavors of coconut, vanilla, mocha and
baked black fruits are hedonistic and rich. Drink
through 2018. This is 85% Malbec with Syrah and
Cabernet Sauvignon. Southern Wine Group. M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $58
91
Salentein 2011 Numina Spirit Vineyard Gran

Corte (Uco Valley). For full review see page
76. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $41
91
SignoSeis 2011 The Angel Oak Assemblage

Reserva (Valle de Uco). Loamy, smooth, inviting aromas of creamy blackberry and plum pave
the way to a plump, rich palate loaded with rubbery
flavors of baked black fruits and licorice. A chunky,
sweet-tasting finish is soft, with lush tannins. Less
than 100 cases of this Malbec-led blend were made.
Argentinean Wines, LLC. M.S.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $60
91
Sur de los Andes 2010 Premium Blend Single

Vineyard (Lujn de Cuyo). Intense mineral
and berry aromas show class and touches of mint
and resiny wood. This feels crisp, electric and drawing, while flavors of graphite, mint, raw oak, vanilla,
plum and raspberry run onto a lightly herbal, medium-length finish. Drink this tightly wound, fresh
young blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and
Merlot now through 2020. Winery Direct. M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $28
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Cruz Alta 2010 Chairmans Blend MalbecCabernet Sauvignon-Syrah (Mendoza).

Waves of berry aromas matched by oak-based vanilla and a hint of violet comprise the nose on this
Malbec-led blend that smacks hard in the mouth
with tannic bite and acidity. Flavors of wild berry,
cherry and hard spices finish juicy and lively. Drink
through 2018. Total Wine & More. M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $31
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Hubert Weber 2007 Winemakers Selection

(Mendoza). Smoky aromas of bacon mix
with tobacco, graphite and earthy berry scents. Offering a big, tannic mouthfeel, the wine has flavors
of fig, tobacco and mature berry fruits. The finish is
long and firm. Drink through 2017. Maximus Vinum.
M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $55
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Proemio 2009 Barrel Selection (Mendoza).

Plum and raspberry aromas are wiry in nature and red in character. The wine feels healthy
and not overly heavy, with roasted, slightly herbal
flavors of berry fruits and creamy oak. A spicy,
lightly herbal finish ends this Malbec-Syrah-Merlot
blend in solid fashion. Drink through 2015. Vitis
Imports. M.S.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $50
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TeHo 2011 Red Blend Malbec-Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Licorice, cardamom,

blueberry and cassis aromas are subtle but complementary. A firm, healthy feel isnt particularly hard
or tannic, while candied berry and sweet oak flavors
lead to a long, smooth finish. This blend of 67%
Malbec and 33% Cab Sauvignon is ripe, ready and
exemplifies Mendozas penchant for big wines with
balance. Only 150 cases made. Vino Del Sol. M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $95
ly been producing the variety for years, with excellent results. This 2012 is certainly their best since
at least 2006. The wine, which is unoaked, is dry
and brisk in acidity, with a tangy minerality. But its
the ripe, pure lemongrass, peach and papaya flavors
that really star. Only 780 cases were produced. Editors Choice. S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $25
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Galerie 2012 Equitem Sauvignon Blanc

(Knights Valley). For full review see page 75.
Editors Choice.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $30
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Galerie 2012 Naissance Sauvignon Blanc

(Napa Valley). For full review see page 75.
Editors Choice.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $30
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Easton 2012 Monarch Mine Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Sierra Foothills). Eastons classic Sauvignon Blanc stands out year in and year out
and this is no exception. Complex in texture and
flavors of lime and tropical papaya, its marked by
minerality and a pronounced crispness. It calls out
to be served as an apritif or to enjoy while cooking. V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
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Luigi Bosca 2010 Gala 1 Malbec-Petit Verdot-Tannat (Mendoza). This Malbec-heavy

blend opens with forest floor and leathery aromas.
The palate is firm and solid, with plenty of tannic
grip. Flavors of roasted, herbal berry fruits finish
with a leathery quality and some green character.
Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $39
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ZaHa 2011 Red Blend Malbec-Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Lactic aromas of creamy
oak, latex and plastic come with a hint of mocha.
Resilient on the palate, it has oaky, lactic flavors of
black plum and cassis. A candied tasting, creamy
finish is fresh and firm. The blend is 78% Malbec
and 22% Cabernet Sauvignon. Vino Del Sol. M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $65
Andeluna 2007 Pasionado Cuatro Cepas
(Tupungato). Slightly heavy, overripe aromas of prune and dessicated berry lead to a wide,
blocky palate thats fairly oaky despite all the time
this has spent in bottle. Flavors of loamy berry,
resiny wood and baked black plum finish earthy
but a touch flat. Drink this blend of Malbec, Merlot,
Cabernet Sauvignon and Cab Franc now. San Francisco Wine Exchange. M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $60
SAUVIGNON BLANC
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Babcock 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Sta. Rita

Hills). The Santa Rita Hills isnt exactly
known for Sauvignon Blanc, but Babcock has quiet-
Murrietas Well 2012 Los Tesoros Sauvignon

Blanc (Livermore Valley). Pretty in orange
blossom and jasmine highs, this is a small-production, complex and textured Sauvignon Blanc thats
floral through and through. Lengthy on the finish,
itll linger on the tongue alongside buttery shellfish
or creamy cheeses. V.B.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $35
Del Dotto 2012 Cinghiale Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Fort Ross-Seaview). Your first
sniff of this wine reveals gooseberry notes, an impression confirmed when you taste it. Its bone dry,
and that green, herbal flavor is relieved by riper
lemons, limes and mangoes. Its a severe wine, dry
and acidic, but deserves credit for elegance and varietal purity. S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $49
Dutton Estate 2012 Dutton Ranch Kylies Cuve Sauvignon Blanc (Russian River Valley).
The wine is fermented in steel tanks and aged for a
few months in neutral oak barrels. The result is dry,
tart and complex, with gooseberry, green grass and
white pepper flavors, enriched with hints of golden
mangoes and vanilla. S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $21
Envy 2012 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc (Calistoga). An enormously fruity wine, its impressive in Meyer lemons, limes, apricots, mangoes
and vanilla, succulent and savory, and brightened
by acidity. With almost the weight of an oak-aged
Chardonnay, it shouldnt be opened too cold. Pair it
with everything from ham and sausages and broiled
chicken to arroz con pollo and Thai pork and peanut

curry. S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
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LangeTwins 2012 Estate Grown Musqu

Clone Sauvignon Blanc (Lodi). For full review see page 77.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $15
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Gainey 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Santa Ynez

Valley). This unoaked wine is enormously
ripe in lemon, lime, green grass, tropical fruit and
vanilla flavors. Its basically dry, although you can
taste honey in the finish. Brilliant acidity gives it
a keen, mouthwatering quality. Editors Choice.
S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $14
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Murphy-Goode 2012 The Fum Sauvignon

Blanc (North Coast). For full review see
page 77.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
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Wasted Grape 2012 Inn Ranch Sauvignon

Blanc (Suisun Valley). Opening with rich
aromas of vanilla and lemon meringue, this barrelfermented Sauvignon Blanc is delightfully crisp and
light with a clear sense of lemony-lime and tropical
fruit goodness. It finishes bright in melon and another hit of vanilla. V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $17
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Envy 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley).

Just a touch of oak on this wine gives a welcome smoky-sweet edge of vanilla and toast. The
grapes bring rich, ripe Meyer lemon, lime, orange
and peach flavors, with a hint of savory green gooseberries. This will be a good companion to slightly
sweet Asian fare. S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $28
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Tines 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Happy Canyon

of Santa Barbara). Good price for a Sauvignon Blanc this brisk and clean. Its tart in acidity
and dry, with rich lemon, lime, grapefruit, mango
and vanilla flavors. It will partner well with Vietnamese or Thai foods that are spicy and a little
sweet. S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $17
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Hanna 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Russian River

Valley). With ammonia, green pea, gooseberry and pink grapefruit flavors, it defines a grapy,
dry, acidic style. Tasted in January, the wine was
still a little bubbly from the fermentation process.
S.H.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $20
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Hannah Nicole Vineyards 2012 Sauvignon

Blanc (Contra Costa County). With a touch
of apricot fuzz and fresh-cut grass, the wine is high
in acidity and clean, bright and layered. V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $26
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Peltier Station 2012 hy.brid Sauvignon Blanc

(Lodi). Crisp with a taste of New Zealand
grass, this wine offers pear, lemon and a pinch of fig
on the finish amid layers of acidity. Best Buy. V.B.
abv: 12.8%
Price: $10
CHARDONNAY
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Fess Parker 2012 Ashleys Chardonnay (Sta.

Rita Hills). For full review see page 71. Editors Choice.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $37
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Fess Parker 2012 Bien Nacido Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). For full review
see page 72. Editors Choice.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $37
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Jarvis 2012 Finch Hollow Estate Grown Chardonnay (Napa Valley). For full review see
page 72.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $115
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Fess Parker 2012 Sierra Madre Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). Crisp acidity
and a cool minerality, like liquid granite, give this
wine elegance and complexity. Its rich in tropical
fruits, peaches, pears, buttercream and vanilla, with
oaky notes of buttered toast and caramel. What a
fancy wine to have with Chardonnay-friendly fare,
like lobster, crab or scallops in cream sauce. S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $35
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Flora Springs 2012 Floras Legacy Chardonnay (Napa Valley). A long-time producer of
great Chardonnay, Flora Springs hits a new level
with this reserve commemorative bottling. The
wine is spectacularly rich in tropical fruits, green
apples and limes, with elaborate buttered toast and
vanilla flavors from new oak, and a wonderfully
creamy, leesy complexity. S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $70
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Loring Wine Company 2012 Rosellas Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands).
For full review see page 74.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
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ZD 2012 Chardonnay (California). The statewide appellation reflects the fact that the
grapes were sourced from Napa Carneros, Sonoma,
Monterey and Santa Barbara. That makes it a master of the art of blending. Meanwhile, the great 2012
vintage, which was successful throughout the state,
is responsible for the wines balance. Its rich in
tropical fruit, green apple, peach and nectarine flavors, with oak bringing richer elements of buttered
toast and vanilla bean. With brisk acidity, its a gorgeous, versatile Chardonnay to drink now, and the
alcohol is a refreshingly low. Editors Choice. S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $37
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Del Dotto 2011 Family Reserve Cinghiale Vineyard Chardonnay (Fort Ross-Seaview). The
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BUYINGGUIDE
triple digit price is not a typo. This Chard is rich,
ripe, high in alcohol and oaky, in the manner of the
most opulent California Chardonnays. It holds concentrated tropical fruit, honey, butterscotch, toasty
oak and cream flavors. With good acidity, it is ready
to drink now. S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $125
wine until 2015 or 2016 in the cellar to let the parts

integrate. S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
90
MacPhail 2012 Chardonnay (Sonoma

Coast). For full review see page 76.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
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Dutton-Goldeld 2012 Dutton Ranch Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Theres lots
of everything in this Chard. Its enormously ripe in
tropical fruits, peaches and pineapples, as well as
new French oak. Malolactic fermentation and lees
aging add richer toast and cream notes. Good as the
wine is, it lacks subtlety. S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $38
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Dutton Estate 2012 Kyndalls Reserve Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Lots of oak
and lees on this Chardonnay, but is never feels
overworked. The acidity is brisk, and fruit flavors
are rich in apricots, mangoes, tangerines and pears.
Dont drink this delicious wine too cold, as it picks
up nuances in the glass. S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $38
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Fess Parker 2012 Lazy F Ranch Chardonnay

(Sta. Rita Hills). Give this Chard a year in the
cellar to let the oak integrate with everything else.
Right now, it shows a woody sappiness that dominates. Under that is a fine wine, dry, acidic and ripe
in pears, Meyer lemons, green apples and golden
mangoes. S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $35
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Loring Wine Company 2012 Durell Vineyard

Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Its risky to
suggest aging a California Chardonnay, but youd
do well to stash this away until sometime in 2015.
Right now, the wine is all about brisk acidity, oak
and fresh, ripe tropical fruit, orange and pear flavors. All those parts need time to come together.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $40
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Godspeed 2012 Estate Grown Chardonnay

(Mount Veeder). Chardonnays from Mount
Veeder are rare, but the mountain can be a good
home for that variety. Godspeeds 2012 is dry, brisk
in acidity and enormously rich in tropical fruit, pear
and apricot fruit flavors, enhanced with oak. Drink
this Chard now with fancy fare, such as wild mushroom risotto, ahi tuna tartare and chicken lasagna.
S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $30
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Loring Wine Company 2012 Parmalee-Hill

Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). The
vineyard lies in that fuzzy area that also qualifies for
a Carneros or Sonoma Valley appellation. The wine
is ripe and forward in tangerine, apricot, mango
and lime fruit, with fine acidity and a hit of buttery,
toasty oak. It defines the ripe, opulent California
coastal style of Chardonnay. S.H.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $40
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Loring Wine Company 2012 Sierra Mar Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands).
Theres a lot of oak on this Chardonnay, to judge by
the buttered toast and butterscotch richness. Underneath all that is a wine ripe in tropical fruits and
green apples, brightened by excellent, mouthwatering acidity. The oak stands out now, but give the
Chalone 2012 Gavilan Chardonnay (Chalone). This is sort of a second wine from
Chalone, but its a very good one. The grapes were
grown in the Gavilan Mountains, where Chalone is
located. It shows plenty of acidity, and the apricot,
orange, mango and honey flavors are enhanced with
a stony minerality that create elegance. S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $20
Grgich Hills 2011 Estate Grown Chardonnay

(Napa Valley). This Chardonnay, which
comes from the winerys American Canyon and
Carneros vineyards, shows modest alcohol levels.
Oak brings toastiness, while malolactic fermentation was avoided to preserve acidity. Flavors veer
towards lemon, lime and grapefruit, with riper note
of mangoes. Its a dry, elegant wine for drinking
now. S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $42
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HandCraft 2012 Artisan Collection Chardonnay (California). For full review see page 78.
Best Buy.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
MacPhail 2011 Gaps Crown Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Flashy enough,
with ripe pineapple, green apple and tropical fruit
flavors liberally enhanced with toasty new oak. But
as tasty as it is, the wine lacks that extra something
to lift it above the ordinary. It will appeal to fans of
rich, oaky Chards. S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $45
Poseidon 2012 Estate Grown Chardonnay
(Carneros). This Chardonnay carefully
straddles its price point. It offers plenty of rich,
flamboyant tropical fruit, pear and oak flavors, with
brisk acidity and a long, spicy finish, without offering much complexity. Its ready to drink now. S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $25
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Romililly 2012 Chardonnay (Russian River

Valley). The buttered toast and vanilla bean
flavors of oak barrels dominate this Chardonnay.
Underneath that is a good wine, crisp in acidity and
ripe in lime, mango and apricot fruit flavors. Its
ready to drink now. S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $32
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Bouchaine 2011 Estate Vineyard Chardonnay

(Carneros). This is a fairly generic coastal
Chardonnay. Its rich in honeyed oak and balanced
with acidity, while the flavors are enormously ripe
in peaches, pears, oranges and golden mangoes.
Ready to drink now. S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
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Westerly 2012 Chardonnay (Santa Barbara

County). Buttered toast, vanilla, orange,
mango, apricot, lime and honey flavors mark this
Chardonnay. The richness is partially balanced by
vibrant acidity, but its still almost sweet. Drink it
now with rich shellfish, mushroom risotto or a perfect grilled ham and cheese sandwich. S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $45
Cameron Hughes 2012 Lot 427 Chardonnay

(Carneros). Lots of rich flavors in this affordably priced Chard. It brims with golden mango,
orange jam, buttercream, butterscotch, glazed donut and caramel flavors, finished with zesty acidity.
S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
Andretti 2012 Montona Reserve Chardonnay (Napa Valley). Oaky flavors of buttered
toast and vanilla bean dominate this Chardonnay.
Its also ripe in mango, pear, apricot and orange flavors allied with acidity. But the overall quality is
average. S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $50
Ca Momi 2012 Reserve Chardonnay (Napa
Valley). The wine offers a fantastic array of
butterscotch, orange, pineapple, peach and vanilla
bean flavors, brightened with vital acidity. But as
rich as the wine tastes, it lacks a certain distinction. S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $38
The Calling 2010 Jewell Vineyard Dutton
Ranch Chardonnay (Russian River Valley).
New French oak sticks out on this Chardonnay,
making the co-stars buttered toast and caramel.
Underneath the wine is dry and brisk in acidity,
with lime and mango fruit flavors. S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $50
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Del Dotto 2011 Cinghiale Vineyard Chardonnay (Fort Ross-Seaview). Buttered toast and
butterscotch flavors rule in this Chardonnay. The
grapes bring ripe, pure flavors of mangoes, pineapples and tangerines. Its delicious, if a bit obvious in
its appeals. S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $85
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Adelaida 2012 Version Reserve (Paso Robles). The blend is Grenache Blanc, Roussanne and Picpoul Blanc, grown at a high altitude
on Paso Robless west side. The wine is dense and
concentrated in apricots, oranges and mangoes, balanced with acidity and sweet oak. With a dry finish,
its a complex wine to drink now. S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
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Adelaida 2012 Version (Paso Robles). The

blend is Grenache Blanc, Picpoul Blanc,
Viognier and Roussanne. Dry and crisp in acidity,
the wine offers smoky oak framing rich, ripe apricot,
tangerine, mango and lime flavors. S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $35
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Vinum 2012 Chenin Blanc-Viognier (Clarksburg). Crisp and refreshing, this blend of
85% Chenin Blanc and 15% Viognier is high in
acidity with a creamy midpalate. Guava is most
notable flavor, followed by kiwi and honey. Oysters
would be a good call. V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
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Brasseld 2012 Serenity (High Valley). David Ramey is the consulting winemaker for
this wine, a blend of 46% Pinot Grigio, 33% Sauvignon Blanc and 21% Gewrztraminer. Smooth and
crisp, the Sauvignon Blancs qualities are prominent, the wine a tempting mix of apricot, honey and
lemon meringue. V.B.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $15
Montemaggiore 2012 3 Divas (Russian River

Valley). This blend of Viognier, Marsanne
and Roussanne is dry and crisp in acidity and shows
ripe, complex flavors of peaches, limes and oranges.
But the California fruit is balanced by minerality
and dried herbs. Drink it now, but not too cold.
S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $25
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Novy 2012 Four Mile Creek (North Coast). A

great value white, rich and thick in baked
apple, mouth-filling and juicy. With aspects of
Chardonnay and Viognier, the wine is textured,
balanced and long-lasting on the finish. Best Buy.
V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $13
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Fenestra NV True White Lot 1 (California).

From Livermore-based Fenestra, this blend
includes Verdelho, Riesling, Chardonnay, Smillon
and Pinot Gris, swirling them into a medium-boded,
balanced wine resplendent in peach and pear. With
some heft on the finish, it ends satisfyingly clean.
V.B.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $16
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Horse & Plow 2012 Farmstead White (North

Coast). This wine blends 40% Pinot Blanc,
32% Pinot Gris and 28% Riesling to nice effect,
producing a crisp, balanced wine soft in lemon and
pear notes. With toned acidity, its a long-lasting
quaff ready for shellfish or oysters plucked right out
of the bay. V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
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Gnarly Head 2012 Authentic (California).

This blend of undisclosed varieties is a fine
wine for drinking with a huge array of foods. Its
brisk in acidity and forward in lemonade, peach,
pear and orange flavors that linger into a long, rich
finish. The wine will pair especially well with Thai,
Vietnamese and Cambodian fare. S.H.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $12
Chanam 2011 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley).

A tiny-production Pinot by a new producer,
it makes a stunning debut. Owners James Hahn and
Mila Chanam are childhood friends with longtime
Anderson Valley vineyard manager Norman Kobler
and the shared roots have clearly put them in sync.
The wine is perfumey in lilac and violet with a lightly textured and seductive mouthfeel thats exotic in
just-ripe cherry and raspberry. V.B.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $45
Lachini 2011 La Cruz Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For full review see page 72.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $50
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Loring Wine Company 2012 Clos Pepe Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). For full review see page 72.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $50
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Bucher 2012 Three Sixty Pinot Noir (Russian

River Valley). The vineyard, founded in 1997,
is familiar to Pinot lovers through its bottlings from
Williams Selyem. Located in the heart of the valleys
Middle Reach, its wines are softer, riper and fullerbodied than those from the cooler south. With this
bottling, the Bucher family has produced an ageworthy wine that amply displays the vineyards terroir.
The raspberry and cherry fruits are wrapped into
firm tannins, with new French oak bringing sweeter
notes of toast and caramel. Drink 2018 through at
least 2024. Cellar Selection. S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $50
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Dutton-Goldeld 2011 Devils Gulch Vineyard Pinot Noir (Marin County). From one of
Marins coolest and best-farmed vineyard sites, this
offering is intoxicatingly pretty in violets and herbs,
and fleshy in the mouth with gorgeous texture. Layered, structured and dancing in acidity, this is a
Marin Pinot not to miss. V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $58
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Loring Wine Company 2012 Cargasacchi

Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Richly
textured and sumptuous, this Pinot has cherry, red
licorice, cola, pepper and sandalwood flavors that
go on into a long, spicy finish. The tannins are silky
and integrated. The wine displays the fruit forwardness of the vintage, as well as the careful viticulture
of the vineyard. Lovely to drink now with steak, and
it will reward cellaring until 2020 to 2022. S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $50
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Loring Wine Company 2012 Rosellas Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands).
Rosellas is in some respects the quintessential
Santa Lucia Highlands vineyard. It always shows
ripe, concentrated raspberry and licorice fruit, with
brooding, earthy notes of mushrooms, as well as
thick tannins and bright acidity. Lorings 2012 is a
balanced, complex wine that brings hints of blueberries. Its beautiful now, and will age well until at
least 2020. S.H.
abv: 15%
Price: $50
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MacPhail 2011 Sundawg Vineyard Pinot Noir

(Green Valley). For full review see page 73.
Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $49
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Del Dotto 2011 Cinghiale Vineyard Pinot Noir

(Fort Ross-Seaview). The vineyard produces
everything from Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc to
Chardonnay and Syrah for the winery, with generally good results. This Pinot shows the exotic notes
of wildland herbs and pine that so often show up in
Fort Ross-Seaview Pinots. But its also rich in cherries, and the acidity is just about perfect. With a
delicacy of mouthfeel, its a fine example of coastal
Pinot Noir, but it needs time. Give it until 2020.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $75
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Dutton-Goldeld 2012 Dutton Ranch Pinot

Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review
see page 74.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $40
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Fulcrum 2011 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley).

This is Londer Vineyard fruit though the
vineyard is no longer a designation of its own. Still,
like vintages past, Fulcrum has worked its magic
with the long-coveted spot, crafting an herbal, savory Pinot thats mouth-filling in blueberry fruit.
Voluptuously soft, this is a great wine for the table,
perhaps paired with a pork roast dripping in mushrooms. V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $54
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Gainey 2012 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). This

Pinot Noir is silky smooth, with a delicate,
airy texture. Yet the flavors are full-throttle, showing excitingly ripe cherries and persimmons, kissed
with toasty oak, and made bright with vibrant acidity. Drink now through 2017. Editors Choice. S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $30
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Loring Wine Company 2012 Garys Vineyard

Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Stash
this one in the cellar unil 2019 or 2020. Tasted
in January 2014, its tannic, tart in acidity and
enormously rich in red cherry jam, pomegranate
and persimmon fruit flavors, enriched with sweet,
smoky oak. A real beauty from this well-respected
vineyard. Cellar Selection. S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $50
Loring Wine Company 2012 Graham Family

Vineyard Pinot Noir (Green Valley). The vineyard was planted in 2002 and the fruit shows young
exuberance, to judge by the purity of raspberry,
strawberry and persimmon fruit, accented with oak.
The excellent 2012 vintage brings a superb balance
of acidity, and while theres some heat from alcohol,
its nothing that a superb steak cant handle. Give
the wine until 2020 to let all the parts integrate and
mellow. Cellar Selection. S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $50
Loring Wine Company 2012 Keefer Ranch
Vineyard Pinot Noir (Green Valley). Youll
find fantastically ripe black and red cherry, cola,
licorice, tobacco and spice flavors in this dry, medium-bodied Pinot. But its not really drinkable now
because the tannins are too tough. Grown in one
of the regions most celebrated vineyards, it needs
until 2019 or 2020 to begin its aging curve. Cellar
Selection. S.H.
abv: 15%
Price: $50
92
MacPhail 2011 Gaps Crown Vineyard Pinot

Noir (Sonoma Coast). For full review see
page 74. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $49
92
MacPhail 2011 Pratt Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For full review see page 74.
Cellar Selection.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $49
92
MacPhail 2011 Ritas Crown Vineyard Pinot

Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). For full review see page
74. Cellar Selection.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $49
92
MacPhail 2011 Sangiacomo Vineyard Pinot

Noir (Sonoma Coast). For full review see
page 74. Cellar Selection.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $49
92
Marimar Estate 2010 Don Miguel Vineyard

Earthquake Block Unltered Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 74. Cellar
Selection.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $52
91
Bucher 2012 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Since planting in 1997, Bucher Vineyard
has been a renowned source of Pinot Noir for exceptional local wineries. Now the Bucher family is
making their own wine, with good results. The wine
is dry, fresh and keen in acidity, and has considerable weight, with ripe, forward raspberry, cherry,
bacon, sauted wild mushroom and exotic spice flavors. However, its still too young. Begin to enjoy it
around 2018. Cellar Selection. S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
91
Krutz 2011 Soberanes Vineyard Pinot Noir

(Santa Lucia Highlands). The vineyard is famous for producing ripe, luscious Pinots stuffed
with massive fruit. Many wineries have dipped into
it over the years. Krutzs rendition is dry, balanced

and full-bodied, with relatively high alcohol framing raspberry, cherry, cola, red plum, exotic spice
and sandalwood flavors. It should age well through
20202022. Cellar Selection. S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $45
91
Loring Wine Company 2012 Aubaine Vineyard Pinot Noir (San Luis Obispo County).
The vineyard is near if not entirely within the Arroyo Grande Valley appellation, and it shows that
regions tannins, acidity and ripe, long hangtime
flavors. The balanced 2012 vintage has given it tremendously ripe cherry, raspberry, red currant and
cola flavors, yet the wine retains an exciting sense
of control and balance. Give it until 20182019 in
the cellar to gain traction. Cellar Selection. S.H.
abv: 15%
Price: $50
91
Loring Wine Company 2012 Durell Vineyard

Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). The raspberries,
strawberries and cherries of this Pinot are so rich
and ripe, its easy to like it now, especially given
the silky smooth mouthfeel. But such are the tannins that the wine should develop additional bottle
complexity through 20192020, although it doesnt
have the stuffing to go beyond that. S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $50
91
Manzoni 2011 Estate Reserve Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). A rich barrel selection,
this is a fine Pinot Noir thats silky, brisk in acidity,
dry and deeply flavored in raspberries, cherries and
Dr. Pepper cola. Give it at least until 2018 in the
cellar. S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $60
91
Testarossa 2012 Zinnia Grandiora Pinot Noir

(Santa Lucia Highlands). This new line from
the well-regarded Testarossa Winery is a barrel selection emphasizing richness. The wine floods the
mouth with succulent raspberries and cherries,
with tarter notes of cranberries and red licorice.
Earthiness provides extra complexity, and it could
age well through 2020. S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
90
Cameron Hughes 2012 Lot 505 Pinot Noir

(Sta. Rita Hills). For full review see page 73.
Editors Choice.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $25
90
Loring Wine Company 2012 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Rich in raspberries and
strawberries, it couldnt be any riper. Fortunately
the fruit is nicely balanced by acidity, fuzzy tannins
and a mushroomy earthiness thats simply delectable. Drink this lovely wine through 2018. S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $32
90
Rodney Strong 2012 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 77.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
90
Waxwing 2012 Spring Hill Vineyard Pinot

Noir (Sonoma Coast). The fruit is gigantic
on this rich, full-bodied and expressive young Pinot Noir. It discloses an explosion of raspberries
and cherries, along with zesty acidity and a jacket
of smoky oak. The wine is delicious to drink now
with Pinot-friendly fare, such as grilled salmon or
lamb. S.H.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $39
89
Bouchaine 2010 Pinot Noir (Carneros). This

gentle Pinot is just beginning to lose its
fresh strawberry, cherry and cranberry fruit. As it
dries out, mushrooms emerge, giving a wild earthiness. Carneros acidity remains, however, making
the wine tart. It will be a great partner for lamb.
S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $35
89
De Loach 2011 Marin Pinot Noir (Marin County). A young, structured Pinot Noir exuding
tart red cherry and pomegranate, clearly grown in
a cool climate in a cool year with an undertone of
brushy herbes de Provence. The finish continues
the theme of tartness and acidity, a willing partner
for something unexpected like oysters or baconwrapped dates. V.B.
abv: 13%
Price: $35
89
HandCraft 2012 Artisan Collection Pinot Noir

(California). For full review see page 78.
Best Buy.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
89
J Vineyards & Winery 2012 Misterra Pinot

Noir (Russian River Valley). J has taken the
unusual step of blending Pinot Noir with Pinot
Meunier, which is not so strange, but also with Pinotage, which is practically unheard of. The addition of the latter certainly makes the wine darker,
heavier and more tannic than it ordinarily would be.
It also brings an earthiness to Pinots vibrant cherries. Its an oddball, but a charming one to drink
with rich winter stews. S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $50
89
Loring Wine Company 2012 Pinot Noir (Sta.

Rita Hills). This Pinot shows the early
promise of the exciting 2012 vintage. While its just
a basic appellation wine, its rich in raspberries,
cherries, blueberries and persimmons, with the
fruit nicely balanced by crisp acidity. Enjoy this ripe
wine now through 2016. S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $32
89
MacPhail 2012 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast).

The wine is a blend of eight vineyards located throughout the vast appellation, while the
constituent clones include both newer Dijon versions and older California selections. The wine is
designed as a representative sampling of Sonoma
Pinot Noir, and its quite successful. Fruitier and
more direct than MacPhails single-vineyard bot-
tlings, its raspberry and cherry flavors make it

drinkable now. S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
88
Chefs Coat 2012 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria

Valley). Lots of complexity in this dry,
smooth Pinot Noir. It has ripe, bright cherry and
persimmon flavors, with intriguingly earthy notes
of mushrooms and dried woodland herbs. Drink
now2018. S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $32
88
Lachini 2010 La Cruz Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). The wine shows the delicacy,
dryness and crisp acidity of its far coastal origins.
The fruit is nice and ripe in raspberries and cherries, with the vanilla bean and smoke of oak barrel
aging. Rusticity in the texture will limit the wines
ageability. S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $48
88
Loring Wine Company 2012 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Succulent pomegranate,
persimmon and raspberry flavors make this wine an
instant delight. The richness is brightened by tart
acidity, while oak brings just the right touch of buttered cinnamon toast. A lovely Pinot Noir for drinking now with upscale fare. S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $32
88
MacPhail 2011 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley).

This Pinot has a mixture of oak and earthy
pastures going on, and is light in color and texture.
Red cherry and blueberry intermingle in a reductive
way, with a savory herbal quality most prominent
on the finish. V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $40
88
Poseidon 2012 Estate Grown Pinot Noir

(Carneros). Dry and medium-bodied, this
Pinot has nice raspberry, cherry and persimmon flavors, as well as brisk acidity. Toasted oak shows up
as smoky, brown butter sauce. The earthiness suggests pairing with a rich risotto of butternut squash
or wild mushrooms. S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $30
88
Waxwing 2012 Lester Family Vineyard Pinot

Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). The wine is
so fresh and candied in fruit, it really needs to be
aged for a brief time. Tasted in January 2014, its all
about ripe, primary flavors of raspberries and cherries. But it has some interesting depths of mushrooms and spices. The next 1215 months will begin
to allow all the parts to mellow and evolve. Cellar
Selection. S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $39
SYRAH
93
Drew 2011 Perli Vineyard Syrah (Mendocino

Ridge). Drew is single-handedly making a
case for the tiny Mendocino Ridge appellation and
its ability to nurture intense Syrah with this per-
WINEMAG.COM | 109
BUYINGGUIDE
fumed wine explosive in black pepper and cherry.
Its fine, softly-hewed tannins keep things fresh and
sinewy. Complex and dancing in acidity, this Syrah
cries out for charcuterie, especially artisan salami,
its perfect match in pepper. V.B.
abv: 13%
Price: $40
93
Drew 2011 Valenti Vineyard Syrah (Mendocino Ridge). Drew has crafted something
special here, a light-in-alcohol wine that manages
to pack a punch with personality and give a proper
nod to the Northern Rhne. Woodsy and herbal the
Syrah is intensely aromatic in wild strawberries
and blackberries, round and long-lingering, while
offering subtle floral and gamey notes on the palate. V.B.
abv: 12.8%
Price: $40
93
Stark 2011 Eaglepoint Ranch Syrah (Mendocino County). A bright, fresh Syrah delicious in restrained blackberry and blueberry fruit,
it has a luscious mouthfeel, plenty of acidity and
an undercurrent of wild herb. Stark managed to do
good things with many varieties in 2011. This wine
is a standout, ready to pair with something gamey
dribbled in black pepper sauce. V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $38
92
Kale 2010 Alder Springs Vineyard Spirit

Rock Syrah (Mendocino County). Lush in
dark fruit, notably blueberry and blackberry, this
is a soft, mellow, concentrated Syrah with a hint
of forest floor and white pepper. With 4% Viognier
blended in, its long on the finish, with acidity able
to support years of aging. V.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $45
92
Krutz 2010 Stagecoach Vineyard Syrah (Napa

Valley). Krutz is developing a consistent
reputation for their Stagecoach Syrahs. The vineyard sprawls from Atlas Peak into a non-appellated
part of Napa Valley, in the Vaca Mountains, and the
wine always shows a dark color, strong tannins and
massively extracted blackberry and cassis fruit.
This 2010, like its predecessors, is ageable. Give it
until 2020 to mellow. Cellar Selection. S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $35
92
Prospect 772 2011 The Instigator Syrah (California). Black as night and leathery, this is
a generously savory, 100% Syrah thats well put
together in structured tannins and chewy texture.
Let it breathe and the range of smoked meats itll
go with are endless, matching the similar taste of
grilled, gamey meat in the wine. V.B.
abv: 15%
Price: $36
90
Kale 2009 Alder Springs Vineyard Spirit

Rock Syrah (Mendocino County). Voluptuous and savory, this Syrah is blended with 10%
Viognier and the aromatics benefit as a result, a
minerally mix of floral raspberry and vanilla. Earthy
and leathery on the palate, it shows a taste of baked
plum on the finish, as well as tobacco, a nice balance

between Syrahs darker and brighter sides. V.B.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $40
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Montemaggiore 2010 Paolos Vineyard Syrah (Dry Creek Valley). Perfect ripneness has
given this 100% Syrah the most savory blackberry,
cherry, mocha and red licorice flavors, with hints
of grilled bacon and black pepper. Its tannins are
smooth and complex, while a burst of juicy acidity
helps the wine finish clean. Pair this versatile wine
with everything from lamb and steak to salmon and
cheese. S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $38
90
Montemaggiore 2010 Syrana Syrah-Viognier (Dry Creek Valley). You can really taste
the 3% of Viognier in this estate-grown Syrah. Its
like a squeeze of lime juice, giving the blackberry,
blueberry and mocha flavors a zingy, mouthwatering tang. The alcohols a little high, but youll hardly
notice it with rich beef and lamb dishes. S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $42
90
Peter Cellars 2010 Syrah (Sonoma Valley).

For full review see page 77. Editors Choice.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $29
90
Waxwing 2012 Lester Family Vineyard Syrah

(Santa Cruz Mountains). While this singlevineyard Syrah is too soft to age out the tannins, it
is nonetheless a fancy wine for drinking now with
Syrah-friendly fare such as game. The wine is dry,
full-bodied and tannic, and the blackberry fruit
has strong notes of crushed white and black pepper
and charred meat. The alcohol is moderate, and the
price is good for the quality. S.H.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $32
89
Kessler-Haak 2011 Lafond Vineyard Syrah

(Sta. Rita Hills). You might want to stash
this Syrah away for a year or so to let it mellow.
Right out of the bottle, its tannic and fresh in red
berry and stone fruit jam. Cool-climate complexities of pepper and grilled bacon enhance the pleasure. S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $32
89
Waxwing 2012 Flocchini Vineyard Syrah (Sonoma Coast). Dry and tannic, this Syrah
has the rich, complex flavors associated with coolclimate regions. Black pepper and blackberries star,
with complicating notes of roasted meats, like the
sweet charred fat on a great steak. Drink now. S.H.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $32
88
Prospect 772 2011 The Brawler Syrah (Sierra Foothills). Made with a majority of
Syrah and 4% Viognier, the Brawler is moody, dark,
smoky, a mouthful of earthy tobacco and leather.
Enjoy with Port or an after-dinner pipe, old-school.
V.B.
abv: 15%
Price: $36
Bota Box 2012 Shiraz (California). For full review see page 79. Best Buy. S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $23/3 L
Rock Wren 2009 Syrah (Solano County Green

Valley). Dry in meaty tannins, this is a hardbound Syrah, all leather, not so much lace. Grown on
a former cherry orchard in Solano County it shows
its warm-weather roots, structured in a brawny way
with a long, tobacco-like finish. V.B.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $25
86
Adelaida 2011 Annas Estate Vineyard Syrah

(Paso Robles). This 100% Syrah is rich and
ripe in blackberry jam and new oak flavors. Its dry,
with a fruity sweetness, and the tannins are strong
but yielding. High alcohol gives it a hot feeling. Barbecue is your best bet. S.H.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $32
MOURVDRE
89
Cinnabar 2011 Sandy Lane Vineyard Mourvdre (Contra Costa County). A pure Mourvdre thats earthy in wood, cinnamon spice and black
cherry, the Sandy Lane Vineyard is an outpost of
100-year-old vines in sandy soils. Velvety and fullbodied, the wine is robust and rich, a fine one for
aging until 20172021 and then pairing with wild
boar sausages in mushroom ragout. V.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
88
Andis 2011 Mourvdre (Amador County).

This blend of 80% Mourvdre with 20%
Syrah is aged in concrete egg. It offers soft, light layers of blackberry and currant, a tiny suggestion of
cinnamon and a streak of peppery spice. Andis remains a fine producer of many varieties, Rhne and
otherwise, one always worth seeking. V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $28
88
La Clarine Farm 2012 Cedarville Mourvdre

(Sierra Foothills). Hank Beckmeyers wines
continue to confound. This one is young, still evolving and hard to completely decipher. First impressions include smooth layers of earthy mushroom
and raspberry-cherry struggling for dominance.
Light in texture and weight, while high in acidity,
the wine finishes on a kirsch-like sour cherry note.
V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $26
88
Miraores 2012 Estate Mourvdre (El Dorado). This 100% Mourvdre is strong in
cherry liqueur flavor, peppery spice and smooth
tannins. It carries a weighty heftiness through the
midpalate before finishing clean in smoke and tobacco. Young, give it a chance to breathe before
serving. V.B.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $28
87
Jason-Stephens 2010 Estate Mourvdre

(Santa Clara Valley). A light wine with a
hit of oak midpalate, this offers bright red cherry
and black currant fruit with a suggestion of thyme

and toffee on the finish. Smooth to drink, its a fine
choice for red-meat dishes like beef lasagne. V.B.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $28
86
David Girard 2010 Estate Vineyard Mourvdre (El Dorado). Oaky and earthy, this estate
Mourvdre is on the savory side of things, ripe in
stewed plums, tobacco and black pepper, linear and
soft. Barrel-aged for a year in French oak, 20% of
it new, the wines oak imprint should continue to
mellow with time. V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $34
WASHINGTON
CHARDONNAY
95
Ashan 2012 Kestrel Vineyard Chardonnay

(Yakima Valley). For full review see page 71.
Editors Choice.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $45
93
Ashan 2012 Celilo Vineyard Chardonnay (Columbia Gorge). With the Wente clone from
the original 1973 plantings at this vineyard, its a
moderately aromatic, nuanced wine with candy
corn, summer squash, lemon butter, mineral and
spices. The palate is textured and rich yet restrained
with a vein of lemony acidity that runs from head to
tail with a lingering finish. Walks the balance beam
exceptionally well. Editors Choice. S.S.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $45
91
Ashan 2012 Conner Lee Vineyard Chardonnay

(Columbia Valley). Conner Lee Chardonnays
have become almost cultish among Washington
winemakers, and this is another good one to add
to the list. Tight, toasty and rich with flavors from
barrel fermentation, its a riot of caramel, buttered
apple, Asian pear and brioche, yet retains remarkable acidity despite alcohol topping 15%. If you like
your Chardonnays full-blown and roasty toasty, this
ones for you. P.G.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $45
91
DaMa 2012 Chardonnay (Columbia Valley).

abv: 14.8%
Price: $21
90
DaMa 2011 Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). Sagemoor and Conner Lee grapes go
into this soft, plush, totally drinkable Chardonnay.
Pretty fruit flavors of banana, apple and pear mingle
seamlessly, and the wine has both balance and texture to spare. Drink it now for its poise and freshness. P.G.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $23
90
Gordon Estate 2013 Estate Grown Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). For full review see
page 76. Editors Choice.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $17
WINEMAG.COM | 111
BUYINGGUIDE
90
Helix by Reininger 2012 Stillwater Creek

Vineyard Chardonnay (Columbia Valley).
This all-stainless-steel-fermented Chardonnay is
loaded with plush fruit flavors of apple and pear,
balanced with fresh and refreshing acidity. Flavors
of pineapple and citrus thread on through it, with a
lick of butter in the finish. Editors Choice. P.G.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $21
89
Milbrandt 2012 The Estates Chardonnay

(Ancient Lakes). A surprisingly ripe wine
from this generally cool vineyard, it shows notes of
toast, buttery spice, vanilla and tropical fruit. Its
medium-plus bodied, creamy in feel with a tart finish. S.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $23
88
Columbia 2012 Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). Fresh and aromatic, this is the first
vintage for new Columbia winemaker Sean Hails.
The creative blend includes 7% Smillon and 3%
Chenin Blanc, and the wine was fermented in stainless steelno oak or oak treatments needed. It covers the palate with flavors of apple and pear, moving
into hints of tropical. Clean and refreshing all the
way through. P.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $14
87
Canoe Ridge 2012 The Expedition Canoe

Ridge Estate Vineyard Chardonnay (Horse
Heaven Hills). This 2012 offering100% Chardonnay thats 40% aged in American, French, and Hungarian oakhas notes of tangerine, pear, and petroleum jelly. The stone fruit flavors are sweet and rich,
occasionally leaning toward the tropical. S.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
VIOGNIER
90
Coeur dAlene Cellars 2012 Viognier (Washington). Generous, sweetly perfumed aromas of melon and lemon oil lead into a wine with
precision and penetration. Spicy, candied ginger
complements the citrus and tropical fruit, and barrel fermentation gives it a gently buttery mouthfeel.
P.G.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $24
Its front-loaded, fruit-driven, and drinking at its

prime. P.G.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $33
vory flavors as they dance and tussle toward a long,

graceful finish. S.S.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $27
88
Milbrandt 2012 The Estates Viognier (Wahluke Slope). Though aged in just 20% new
French oak, the wood still seems out front on this
otherwise enjoyable wine that brings prominent
notes of vanilla along with pear and peach. Its medium bodied in feel and avoids seeming oily or overblown, with a tart, citrusy finish. S.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
90
SAUVIGNON BLANC
87
90
14 Hands 2012 The Reserve Sauvignon Blanc

(Horse Heaven Hills). This reserve-designated wine aromatically calls out to New Zealand as
much as Washington with its notes of gooseberry,
asparagus and passion fruit. Considering the aromatic intensity, its surprisingly sleek yet still broad
in style with a lower acid profile like many of the
Washington whites from this vintage. S.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
89
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Eleven 2012 La Donella Sauvignon Blanc

(Washington). Sourced entirely from the
Artz vineyard, this Sauvignon Blanc is quite fruity,
concentrated, slightly sweet, and drinking optimally. Flavors of melon and citrus carry on through a
lush, well-rounded finish. P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
GEWRZTRAMINER
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RIESLING
89
DaMa 2012 Viognier (Walla Walla Valley).

Sharply-defined flavors highlighted with
citrus skin and rind introduce this wine. Its loaded
with gin-like botanicals, lemon oil and orange peel,
with high-toned assertiveness through the finish.
P.G.
abv: 15.1%
Price: $25
Helix by Reininger 2012 Stillwater Creek

Vineyard Viognier (Columbia Valley). This
limited-production Viognier reflects the ripeness
of the 2012 vintage. Immediately appealing, it coats
the tongue with thick, peachy/tropical fruit flavors.
A hint of saline cracker comes through as well.
Naches Heights 2012 Guinevere Naches

Heights Vineyard Gewrztraminer (Naches
Heights). Although this is 100% Gewrz and aged
in stainless steel, the aromas of lychee, citrus rind
and spice seem light for the variety while the palates tart acidity lends a pleasing sense of vibrancy
to this off-dry wine. S.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $16
Gamache Vintners 2012 Estate Sauvignon

Blanc (Columbia Valley). Made from vines
nearly 30 years old, this ultra-ripe Sauvignon Blanc
was oak-aged in neutral barrels, and comes across
with Chardonnay-like richness. Its viscous, rich to
the point of liquorousnot for all palates, but done
well in its way. P.G.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $25
Analemma 2012 Oak Ridge Gewrztraminer

(Columbia Gorge). An arresting, vibrantly
aromatic wine with notes of rose petal, lychee, pink
grapefruit and savory spices. It tingles the palate
with just off-dry fruit flavors and brings a weighty,
textured feel without ever seeming overburdened.
A persistent, spice-filled finish that carries far
into the distance serves as the capstone. Editors
Choice. S.S.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $27
88
Pacic Rim 2012 Gewrztraminer (Columbia

Valley). Soft and quite floral, this is textbook Gewrztraminer. The spice of the grape hits
you like a warm breeze, bringing pretty lychee,
melon and more floral flavors with it. Charming and
rather deeply colored, this is pure Gewrztraminer
but one quarter of the blend was done in the style of
an orange wine. Best Buy. P.G.
abv: 12%
Price: $10
Analemma 2012 Atavus Vineyard Gewrztraminer (Columbia Gorge). More aromatically

restrained than its Oak Ridge Vineyard counterpart,
the Atavus Vineyard wine brings notes of rose petal,
herbs, lees and spice. The palate is textured with
tremendous energy and tension to the fruit and sa-
Pacic Rim 2012 Dry Riesling (Columbia Valley). For full review see page 78. Best Buy.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
89
Pacic Rim 2012 Sweet Riesling (Columbia

Valley). For full review see page 78. Best
Buy.
abv: 8.5%
Price: $10
Milbrandt 2012 The Estates Ancient Lakes

Riesling (Ancient Lakes). An intriguing wine
with notes of lime leaf, green apple and wet slate.
It drinks dry with tart, racy acidity and abundant
mineral notes. S.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $17
88
Pacic Rim 2012 Riesling (Columbia Valley).

For full review see page 78. Best Buy.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $10
88
Radius 2012 Riesling (Washington). An

aromatic wine with notes of ripe nectarine, honey and jasmine. Its medium sweet with
an assortment of dried apricot flavors that display
a pleasing sense of balance that continues through
the lingering finish. Best Buy. S.S.
abv: 10.7%
Price: $11
86
Mercer Canyons 2012 Riesling (Yakima Valley). This is a thick, almost syrupy Riesling,
packed with fruit flavors of peaches and apricots.
Its tilting toward off dry, with residual sugar at 15
g/L, drinking well though somewhat one-dimensional. P.G.
abv: 12.9%
Price: $13
86
Naches Heights 2012 Naches Heights Vineyard Riesling (Naches Heights). Displays a
cooler climate profile with notes of lime leaf, qui-
nine, white peach and flowers. The palate drinks off

dry, with well balanced acidity and a stone-fruitfilled finish. S.S.
abv: NA
Price: $14
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Pacic Rim 2012 Wallula Vineyard Biodynamic Riesling (Horse Heaven Hills). Starting off quite reductive, it opens to reveal notes of
lime leaf, mineral and freshly peeled tangerine. The
palate drinks dry but doesnt have the acid to entirely stand it up. S.S.
abv: 12.9%
Price: $24
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Reininger 2012 Birch Creek Vineyard Smillon

(Walla Walla Valley). A wine this good makes
you wish there were a lot more of it. Pure Smillon
from a single vineyard, fermented in stainless steel,
it opens with lovely fragrances of linalool and citrus
pith, softens up in the mouth, and brings grapefruit
and a hint of wet stone. It has the power of Chardonnay with more complexity than most unoaked
versions of that grape. Editors Choice. P.G.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $36
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Rtie Cellars 2012 Northern White Marsanne

(Washington). This is 100% Marsanne, a
racy, textural wine with cool, fresh, crisp flavors of
cucumber, white melon and lemon pith. The framing acidity is tangy without turning at all sour, and
theres a generous foundation of wet stone. The
wine is an immaculate expression of elegance and
finesse. Editors Choice. P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $28
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Amavi Cellars 2012 Smillon (Walla Walla Valley). Crystal clear, clean and fresh, this lovely
wine mixes ripe citrus, tangerine and melon fruits,
with a touch of barrel toast. Its full-bodied and rich
without being thick or tiring in any way; simply delicious. Editors Choice. P.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $21
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Syncline 2012 Boushey Vineyard Grenache

Blanc (Yakima Valley). Synclines James
Mantone has hit the bulls-eye once again with this
single vineyard, 100% varietal Grenache Blanc. Its
rich without being thick, loaded with luscious Asian
pear and apple, hints of white peach and a splash of
grapefruit. The texture and acidity add to the liveliness in the mouth, and keep the wine fresh through
a long and satisfying finish. Editors Choice. P.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $24
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Pacic Rim 2012 Chenin Blanc (Columbia

Valley). Along with just a handful of others, this is a trend-setting Chenin, sourced from old
vines and made in significant case quantities. The
grapes are from a 1968 vineyard planted at Hahn
Hill. Its a round and floral Chenin Blanc that feels
downright silky on the tongue. Classic flower and
tree fruit flavors compound, with a lick of butterscotch as the wine rolls through the finish. There is
just a touch10 g/Lof residual sugar. Best Buy.

P.G.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
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Syncline 2012 Boushey Vineyard Picpoul

(Yakima Valley). This tart, slightly waxy
white wine has impressive weight and grip despite
its sharp acidity. Lemons and apples are the fruit
flavors here, and its a good choice for any kind of
shellfish. P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $20
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Syncline 2012 Underwood Mountain Vineyard Grner Veltliner (Columbia Gorge).

One of the few varietal bottlings produced in the
state, this concrete-fermented wine brings notes of
straw, wet stone, herbs and citrus zest. Its tart and
mouthwatering with lemony acidity and a textured
feel, screaming out for shellfish to be served alongside it. S.S.
abv: 12.7%
Price: $20
MERLOT
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Barrister 2011 Merlot (Walla Walla Valley).

abv: 14.5%
Price: $29
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Market Vineyards 2010 Alpha Merlot (Red

Mountain). Alpha is a new offering from
Market Vineyards, and boosts the flavor meter
past the winerys excellent, value-priced Benchmark Merlot. Tightly-structured and showing a
barrel-heavy mix of dark, toasted flavors, this complex effort brings lead pencil, clove, charred meat
and black fruits into play. Enjoy it with your thick
grilled steak, or tuck it away until 20202022. Cellar Selection. P.G.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $52
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Gamache Vintners 2010 Estate Merlot (Columbia Valley). Consulting winemaker Charlie Hoppes has imprinted his benchmark style on
Gamache fruit. This is a big, ripe, blocky but powerful wineall Merlot as only Washington State can
grow it. The ripe cassis fruit is enveloped in a mix of
French and American oak, half new, yielding strong
flavors of smoke, tobacco and mocha. A blockbuster
style, ready to drink right now. P.G.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $30
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Market Vineyards 2010 Benchmark Merlot

(Columbia Valley). An outstanding value, the
newest Benchmark Merlot was sourced equally from
Hightower (Red Mountain) and Weinbau (Wahluke
Slope) vineyards. It offers plenty of rich barrel flavors, wrapped in a dark, toasty, smoky wine with
fruit ripe enough to handle all the oak. Black cherry,
cassis and dark chocolate coat the palate. Editors
Choice. P.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $25
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Pepper Bridge 2011 Merlot (Walla Walla Valley). Here is a young, tight, firm Merlot,
WINEMAG.COM | 113
BUYINGGUIDE
blended with 16% Cabernet Franc and 8% Malbec. Those two grapes pull it even tighter, framing
the black cherry fruit with sleek, polished tannins.
The acidity and natural minerality suggest that a
bit more bottle age will add extra depth and flesh.
P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $50
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Mercer Estates 2010 Merlot (Columbia Valley). In a change of style, this is now 100%
varietal, and much the better for it. Tart and juicy,
with pure fruit flavors of cranberry and raspberry, it
pushes deep into the palate and on through a clean,
racy finish. P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $24
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Reininger 2010 Merlot (Walla Walla Valley). This excellent Merlot speaks to many
of Reiningers proven strengths. Its quite smooth
and supple, loaded with ripe plum and cherry fruit,
seamless and chocolaty. The balance is right on, the
length and texture captivating. P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $39
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Burnt Bridge 2011 Les Collines Vineyard Merlot (Walla Walla Valley). This captures the
spicy vitality of Les Collines Merlot, with pretty
cherry and plum fruit set against a smattering of
new oak toast. Its a clean, well-defined wine that
continues into a tasty finish with highlights of
roasted walnuts and clove. P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $32
89
Columbia 2012 Merlot (Columbia Valley).

Merlot is usually the best wine in any budget lineup of Washington reds, and this excellent
entry from the new regime (Gallo) at Columbia is no
exception. Polished and flavorful, it has textural, detailed flavors built upon black cherry, plum and cassis fruit. There is a light dusting of fresh herbs, and
the wine has real grip and presence in the mouth.
Best Buy. P.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $14
89
Gordon Estate 2010 Estate Grown Block 3

Merlot (Columbia Valley). A very limited
(three barrels) block selection, this is a tough,
chewy wine that remains stubbornly closed even
after being open a full 24 hours. Hard cherry candy
is concentrated in a tannic casing, with streaks of
licorice, dark chocolate, and slightly bitter herbs
wrapped around it. But the power and stuffing are
there for significant improvement over time. P.G.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $31
MALBEC
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Kerloo 2011 Stone Tree Malbec (Wahluke

Slope). Coming from a mixture of blocks 17
and 24 at Stone Tree Vineyard, its a dark, glassstaining wine with notes of plum, crushed blueberries, coffee, tar and spice. The palate is silky soft,
textured in feel with concentrated coffee flavors. An
exquisite sense of balance carries through to a long,
lingering finish. Editors Choice. S.S.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $40
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Gamache Vintners 2010 Estate Malbec (Columbia Valley). Dark cassis fruit dotted with
peppery herbs hallmark this estate-grown Malbec.
Tannins are chewy and substantial, and the wine
overall is solid and blocky, but quite mouthfilling
and flavorful. P.G.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $30
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Market Vineyards 2010 Merval Malbec (Columbia Valley). The excellent Olsen vineyards provided the fruit for this pure Malbec. Its
still quite young, showing clean and tightly-wound
flavors. Berry and cherry fruit highlights the palate,
with a light hint of chocolate woven through the finish. P.G.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $39
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Eleven 2011 Malbec (Red Mountain). Fruity

with black cherry and cassis, this includes
22% Lemberger; both grapes sourced from Kiona.
Its peppery and herbal, with a slightly pickly character, likely from aging in 30% new American oak.
P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $33
SYRAH
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Mercer Canyons 2011 Red Blend (Columbia

Valley). The blend is 81% Merlot, and includes small amounts of four other Bordeaux grapes
as well. Its aromatic with dried herbs and tart berries and plums bringing fresh flavors and juicy acidity. Its well-built for another few years of cellaring.
P.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $17
88
Columbia Crest 2011 H3 Merlot (Horse Heaven Hills). Unmistakably Washington Merlot
with its notes of milk chocolate, raspberry, espresso
and cherry. Its light in style but still sumptuous in
feel with slightly rustic tannins framing a lingering
chocolate and vanilla-filled finish. S.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
95
Syncline 2011 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Syrah

(Red Mountain). This is a focused, riveting
expression of Red Mountain Syrah from a great vineyard. Its packed with juicy flavors of fresh raspberries, tinged with tangerine-flavored acids. Elegant
and fascinating, its a pure, fruit-driven expression
of the grape, bolstered by the natural minerality of
Ciel du Cheval fruit. Cellar Selection. P.G.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $50
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Syncline 2011 Boushey Vineyards Syrah (Yakima Valley). Pure Syrah from a great site
is on display here. A core of brambly black fruit
is presented with particular attention to details of
texture, spice and overall balance. Polished and full
of finesse, this is a charmer at an attractive price.

Editors Choice. P.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $35
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Amavi Cellars 2011 Les Collines Vineyard Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). Sourced from the
oldest blocks in the vineyard, this is a mlange of
boysenberry, blueberry and blackberry fruit, dotted
with pepper and hints of brine and espresso. Young
and compact, but complex and fascinating, this is a
wine to tuck away until at least 2019. Cellar Selection. P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $36
91
Amavi Cellars 2011 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley).

Half was whole-cluster fermented, yielding
dense scents and flavors with black olive, herb and
a touch of mocha. Cranberry, raspberry and cherry
fruit flavors are smooth and detailed, and the tannins firm and polished. P.G.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $29
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DaMa 2010 Syrah (Columbia Valley). This

spicy, elegant take on Syrah will reward your
attention. Boysenberry and other purple/black
fruits are expressed both aromatically and on the
palate, with light touches of vanilla. The overall
impression is of a pretty, structured, textural wine,
with excellent length and balance. P.G.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $28
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Reininger 2010 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). A

pure varietal Syrah, this opens with a mix of
peppery herbs, a hint of stem, and a whiff of tomato
leaf. Give it some breathing room and the red currant fruit fleshes out, melding with darker flavors
of licorice, soy and espresso, in a wine of medium
length, with natural acidity and crisp tannins. P.G.
abv: 15%
Price: $44
90
Eleven 2011 Elephant Mountain Vineyard

Syrah (Yakima Valley). Lovely aromatics
introduce this single-vineyard Syrah. It shows excellent complexity, from the opening floral aromatics on through the dense mix of compost, black tea,
cherry tobacco and clove in the finish. The grapy
young fruit is succulent and fresh, and suggests that
aging until 20172019 will improve this wine still
further. P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $24
90
Gamache Vintners 2010 Estate Syrah (Columbia Valley). All Syrah from the estate
vineyard, this robust and flavorful wine is a burst
of pure raspberry and cassis fruit, heavily accented
with cigar-box scents and flavors. There is sufficient
acidity to balance out the alcohol. P.G.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $30
89
Coeur dAlene Cellars 2009 Boushey Vineyard Syrah (Washington). This lively wine
is sourced from the excellent Boushey vineyard
in Washingtons Yakima valley. The deep black-
berry fruit is ripe and tasty; and the tannins nicely

smoothed out with a dusty, chocolaty finish. P.G.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $36
88
Helix by Reininger 2010 Syrah (Columbia

Valley). This Syrah emphasizes herb and
spice, keeping the peppery fruit in the background.
Nice grip and a pleasing texture contribute to the
enjoyment, though the light, grapy flavors make you
wonder how well the wine will age. P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
88
Market Vineyards 2010 Dividend Syrah (Columbia Valley). Big and juicy, this pure Syrah from the Gamache vineyard mixes blue and black
berry fruit flavors. The acids are in proportion, and
the tannins ripe and smooth. Too much oak influence from aging in French and American barrels
mutes some varietal nuances. P.G.
abv: 15%
Price: $39
87
Coeur dAlene Cellars 2010 Scarlet Lake Syrah

(Washington). This Syrah with no rough
edges is sourced from Boushey, Stillwater Creek
and Alder Ridge fruit. Red and blue berries, plums
and a mocha-soaked finish make it an easy, enjoyable quaffer. P.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $26
GRENACHE
lent Red Mountain sites: Heart of the Hill, Ciel du

Cheval and Grand Rve vineyards. Tart, stony raspberry fruit carries a hint of cured meat and straw.
The wine displays excellent length and a delicious
purity. P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $45
90
Coeur dAlene Cellars 2010 Mo Mourvdre

(Washington). Elements of granite and
steel combine with scents of pork fat and flavors of
wild berries. The tannins are smooth and supple,
and the wine carries a streak of green olive through
the finish. P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $28
90
Syncline 2011 Mourvdre (Columbia Valley).

Pure Mourvdre from a mix of Columbia
Valley vineyards, this is clean, sharp and varietally
accurate. Tart raspberry fruit is set in a balanced
frame of clean earth, wet stone and mineral. Its a
fine-boned wine, well-structured and powerful.
P.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $30
92
Kerloo 2011 Upland Vineyard Grenache

(Snipes Mountain). This small-production,
single-vineyard Grenache is direct and appealing
with notes of raspberry compote, strawberry, orange peel, violets and tapenade. The palate is pure
silk, elegant in its styling with an extended finish.
S.S.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $46
91
Kerloo 2011 Grenache (Horse Heaven Hills).

20% whole-cluster fermented, this rich,
brooding blend of Alder Ridge (86%) and Snipes
Mountain Grenache brings notes of licorice, dark
cherry, black pepper and mortared herbs. Its broad
in feel, tart, fruit filled, and tightly wound, needing
time in the cellar to unfurl. S.S.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $40
MOURVDRE
91
Syncline 2011 Mourvdre (Red Mountain).

This is pure Mourvdre from three excel-
Angel Vine 2011 Zinfandel (Columbia Valley). The entry-level Zin from Angel Vine
combines fruit from the three single vineyard cuves, along with a splash of Petite Sirah. Rich, plush
berry scents and grapey berry fruit flavors abound
boysenberry, blackberry and more, buoyed with
natural acidity. There is no sense that the alcohol
is intrusive, and the wine fades gently with hints of
red licorice and cocoa. P.G.
abv: 15.1%
Price: $19
89
Angel Vine 2011 Stonetree Vineyard Zinfandel (Columbia Valley). Despite its high alcohol, this high-toned Zin does not have the crushing
weight and overall power youd anticipate. Cranberry and raspberry juice fruit flavors carry balancing
acidity, and theres a suggestion of refreshing minerality. Although at first the wine seems disjointed,
it smoothes out nicely with aeration. P.G.
abv: 15.7%
Price: $20
IDAHO
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Eleven 2011 Sugarloaf Vineyard Mourvdre

(Yakima Valley). Tart and brambly, this carries well-integrated streaks of earth and bark along
with the light berry flavors. At first the tannins feel
a bit rough, but the wine smoothes out and lightens
up into a fresh, fruity finish. P.G.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $35
93
Syncline 2011 Grenache (Columbia Valley).

A sensational effort, this wine is 100%
varietal, sourced from four vineyards scattered
throughout the sprawling Columbia Valley. Fragrant
and concentrated, its hallmarks are purity and intensity. Plum, cherry liqueur and cassis are the focus, with bright lemony acids adding lift and zip to
the mouthfeel. Editors Choice. P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $25
90
ZINFANDEL
87
Sawtooth 2012 Estate Grown Pinot Gris

(Snake River Valley). Fermented and aged in
stainless steel, this is a direct and appealing wine
that brings notes of freshly cut red apple and peach,
with a dash of Muscat Blanc (1%) lifting the aromatics. Its medium bodied with a pleasing interplay of citrus and stone fruit flavors throughout.
Best Buy. S.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
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Angel Vine 2011 Alder Ridge Vineyard Zinfandel (Columbia Valley). As the vines grow
older, the Alder Ridge Zins gain complexity and
gravitas with each new vintage. Tart and brambly,
this is a berry-fest, with racy flavors of cranberry,
strawberry, raspberry and hints of baking spice.
The acidity and overall balance suggest that this can
prosper through 2020. Editors Choice. P.G.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $20
Angel Vine 2011 Avery Vineyard Zinfandel
(Columbia Valley). Among the four vineyards used by Angel Vine, the Avery stands apart
for its detail, grip and length. Blue fruits take center
stageplums and berriesalong with a tasty lick of
coffee and chocolate. You may pick up a hint of the
tack room and a streak of fennel in the finish. Editors Choice. P.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $20
91
Angel Vine 2011 Primitivo (Columbia Valley).

Primitivo is a close relation to Zinfandel, and
it slides easily into the Angel Vine lineup which includes four other Zins. This carries a touch more
earthiness than the others, with darker fruits and
a distinctive streak of espresso. Good grip and density mark this as the most muscular wine among the
2011s. Editors Choice. P.G.
abv: 15.4%
Price: $20
Sawtooth 2011 Sawtooth Estate Vineyard

Chardonnay (Snake River Valley). Fermented with 30% new American oak, its direct and appealing with notes of melted caramel, vanilla, and
toast. The flavors are rich and medium bodied, finishing a bit short. S.S.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $15
Colters Creek 2012 Viognier (Snake River

Valley). A lightly aromatic wine with notes
of peach, melon, and toasted grapenuts. It drinks off
dry, but lacks the stitching to hold it all together.
S.S.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $15
85
Ste. Chapelle 2012 Chardonnay (Snake River

Valley). Aged in a mixture of French and
American oak, its ripe and fruity with abundant
notes of apricot and pineapple. The flavors are compact with their richness lending a sense of sweetness. S.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $13
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Colters Creek 2011 Syrah (Snake River Valley). For full review see page 78. Best Buy.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $13
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BUYINGGUIDE
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Koenig Vineyards 2010 Cuve Amelia Reserve

Syrah (Snake River Valley). Co-fermented
with 5% Viognier and aged in new French oak for 18
months, its brightly aromatic with notes of Creamsicle, flowers, mint and herbs. The wood gives a
slightly ponderous feel and the tart acids still need
some time to calm down. S.S.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $50
86
Koenig Vineyards 2010 Cuvee Alden Private

Reserve (Snake River Valley). 55% Cabernet
Sauvignon and 45% Merlot aged two years in new
French oak, the wood notes are quite prominent
along with mint, cherry, and chocolate. True to the
vintage, its lighter in style with tart fruit flavors,
mouthwatering acids, and firm tannins that still
need some time to come into their own. S.S.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $50
SWEET WINE
with a rich, luxurious mouthfeel. Finishes moderately long with a lingering slick of butter. A.I.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $26
it finishes with a lacy sweetness and just a hint of

fresh herbs. A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $17
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Sherwood House Vineyards 2010 Estate

Grown Chardonnay (North Fork of Long Island). Freshly pressed apples and lemon notes are
accented with just a hint of floral notes. Its texture
is rich and full in body, adding opulence to the midpalate. Zesty acidity lends an edge towards the finish. A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $30
Treleaven 2011 Vintners Cuve Chardonnay
(Cayuga Lake). Whiffs of smoke and dusty
minerals add subtle complexity to soft apple and
floral notes. Its dry and delicately framed, but hints
of cream and nut flavors add a tad of richness. Finishes briskly with a hit of lemony acidity. A.I.
abv: 11%
Price: $NA
RIESLING
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Koenig Vineyards 2011 Ice Wine Riesling

(Snake River Valley). This is a ber aromatic
wine with a long list of notes that include orange
marmalade, peach, citrus, and drizzled honey. Harvested at 42 brix and retaining a whopping 240 g/L
residual sugar, its supremely rich and sweet with a
lingering finish. Editors Choice. S.S.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $20/375 ml
NEW YORK
CHARDONNAY
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Lakewood 2011 Chardonnay (Finger Lakes).

Vanilla and toast notes highlight concentrated apple and quince flavors in this supple, fullbodied wine. Its dry in style and velvety on the palate with a moderately long, elegant finish. Best Buy.
A.I.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
86
Belhurst 2011 Chardonnay (Seneca Lake).

Leesy, yeasty notes lend a savory feel to
freshly-pressed apple and herb flavors in this easydrinking Chardonnay. Its dry in style with a delicate mouthfeel thats accentuated by bright streaks
of lemony acidity. A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20
91
Red Tail Ridge 2012 RTR Estate Vineyard Riesling (Finger Lakes). For full review see page
76. Editors Choice.
abv: 12%
Price: $16
90
Red Tail Ridge 2012 RTR Vineyard Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). For full review see page
77. Editors Choice.
abv: 12%
Price: $19
89
Dr. Konstantin Frank 2012 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). Bristling with lime zest and
a steely, mineral tone, this dry, moderate-bodied
Riesling is elegant and refreshing from start to finish. Its packed with white peach and apricot flavors, but zippy and bright with hints of fresh herbs
that linger on the finish. A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $15
88
Knapp 2012 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). Delicate whiffs of quince and white blossom
lend an elegant flair to this dry, refreshingly tart
Riesling. Its juicy with peach and mango flavors,
but maintains a zesty mineral quality thats invigorating through the finish. A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $15
Seneca Shore NV Amulet Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). Herbal notes lend elegance and
freshness to this bright, citrusy wine. Dry on the
palate with a lean, linear style, its refreshing and
quaffable with a moderately long lime-zest finish.
A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
Silver Thread 2012 Dry Riesling (Finger

Lakes). The faintest waft of marshmallow
lends a pleasantly confectionery note to stone-fruit
and blossom aromas on this dry, medium-bodied
Riesling. The palate is elegant with brisk herbal
tones and zesty lime acidity. A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $18
86
Keuka Spring 2012 Humphreys Vineyard

Riesling (Finger Lakes). A bit smoky and
savory in style, this slightly off-dry wine balances
earthy mineral tones with flavors of pressed pear
and apple. Sprightly acidity gives it a refreshing,
easy-drinking quality. A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $22
86
Martha Clara 2012 Estate Reserve Riesling (North Fork of Long Island). Perfumed
with notes of white flowers, melon and peach, this
off-dry wine is delicate on the palate with sweet
stone-fruit flavors offset by brisk lemon acidity. Its
straightforward in style but bright and fresh with a
hint of honey that lingers. A.I.
abv: 11%
Price: $26
86
Silver Thread 2012 Gridley Bluff Point Vineyard Riesling (Finger Lakes). Lime and
lemon notes waft on the nose of this slightly off-dry
Riesling, accenting flavors of apple and pear. Its a
bit dainty in profile, but refreshing on the palate
with a hint of dried herb and brisk lime acidity.
A.I.
abv: 11.8%
Price: $25
MERLOT
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Lamoreaux Landing 2012 Estate Bottled Dry

Riesling (Finger Lakes). Perfumed on the
nose with intense aromas of flowers, tropical fruit
and even vanilla, this heady wine might come off a
bit cloying. The palate is dry and cut with acidity,
making it refreshingly quaffable. A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $14
Wlffer 2010 Christians Cuvee Merlot (The

Hamptons, Long Island). Crisp, pristine
blackberry notes are deeply penetrating on the nose
and palate. Its ripe and luscious on the palate with
layers of savory herb, smoke and hay that add complexity and flair. Big, impenetrable tannins need
time to mellow, but are likely to smooth out beautifully through 2019. Cellar Selection. A.I.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $100
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Hosmer Winery 2010 Limited Release Chardonnay (Finger Lakes). Savory apple and
spice notes mark this bright wine. Brisk lemon acidity cuts through the full-bodied palate, giving it a
refreshing, balanced mouthfeel. A.I.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $25
Martha Clara 2010 Estate Reserve Chardonnay (North Fork of Long Island). Bright apple and lemon aromas, along with a hint of sweet
creamed corn, introduce this generously oaked
Chardonnay. Its dry in style but bold on the palate
Pindar Vineyards 2012 Estate Bottled Riesling

(North Fork of Long Island). This intensely
aromatic, off-dry Riesling jumps from the glass with
a heady bouquet of flowers and tropical fruit. On the
palate, flavors of peach and blossom are highlighted
with brisk lemon-lime acidity. Pretty and pleasing,
Wlffer 2010 Lombardo Merlot (The Hamptons, Long Island). Deeply saturated with
blackberry and plum flavors, this powerful, boldly
structured Merlot balances rich fruit with complex
shades of earth and mineral. Umami-rich whiffs of
soy sauce and hay linger from nose to finish, hint-
ing towards its development. Its pleasant now, but

should meld considerably through 2019. Cellar Selection. A.I.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $35
86
Raphael 2010 First Label Merlot (North Fork

of Long Island). Bright and cheery with ripe
red-berry and plum flavors accented with a hint of
sweet spice, its soft and lushly textured. The palate is fleshy and yielding, but wraps up with big,
chunky tannins. A.I.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $49
RED BLENDS
89
Wlffer 2010 Fatalis Fatum (The Hamptons,

Long Island). Whiffs of earth and mushroom
against a backdrop of intensely aromatic red cherry, fresh herb and spice hint to the future of this
bold, complex Bordeaux blend. The palate is juicy
with fruit, but shaded with rustic layers of autumn
leaves and wet soil, along with a bracing cranberry
acidity. Its quite nice now, but should improve further through 2019. Cellar Selection. A.I.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $40
88
Lieb 2010 Right Coast Red (North Fork of

Long Island). Quite youthful in style with
bright, fresh cassis and crisp black-plum flavors
accented with hints of menthol and bramble wood,
this is an elegantly structured, intensely flavored
Bordeaux-style blend. Supple on the palate, it has
layers of penetrating but fine-grained tannins that
linger long on the finish, along with a spray of violet
perfume. A.I.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $30
87
McGregor 2010 Rob Roy Red (Finger Lakes).

Rich black-cherry pie, vanilla and spice
notes mark this intensely aromatic Bordeaux-style
blend made of 60% Cabernet Franc augmented
with equal proportions of Cabernet Sauvignon and
Merlot. The palate is bright with tart sour-cherry
flavor wrapped in layers of velvety smooth tannins.
Finishes moderately long. A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $45
87
Suhru 2010 Red (North Fork of Long Island).

This kitchen-sink blend of red grape varieties balances fresh, ripe black cherry and berry notes
with nuanced layers of smoke, earth and bramble.
Its concentrated on the palate with rich, juicy
fruit but quite rigid with tannins still. Its pleasant to drink now, but structured enough to improve
through 2019. A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
86
Raphael 2010 La Tavola (North Fork of Long

Island). Hints of earth and mushroom, soy
sauce and brine add umami to succulent blackberry
and cherry flavors in this Merlot-based Bordeaux
blend. The palate is crisp with sour-cherry acidity,
and finishes with bold, chunky tannins that linger.
Its showing quite a bit of maturity already, so drink
now with a quick decant. A.I.
abv: 12.6%
Price: $14
86
Sherwood House Vineyards 2010 Sherwood

Manor Estate Grown (North Fork of Long Island). This Bordeaux-style blend is enticing on the
nose with bold scents of cherry-pie preserves, spice
and menthol. Its juicy and concentrated on the palate with soft, ripe cherry and plum flavors, but accompanied by raw, jagged tannins. A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $45
88
Macari 2010 Bergen Road (North Fork of

Long Island). For full review see page 77.
Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $46
87
Baiting Hollow Farm Vineyard 2010 Horse

Rescue Mirage (North Fork of Long Island).
Blackberry and cherry notes are fresh and primary
in this Merlot-based Bordeaux blend, but shaded
with interesting notes of coffee and smoke. The palate is juicy and supple with soft, furry tannins that
accentuate a velvety mouthfeel. Its a boldly structured wine, but elegantly framed and long on the
finish. A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
87
McGregor 2010 Black Russian Red (Finger

Lakes). Whiffs of ripe black cherries, vanilla
and spice, along with delicate hints of soil and barnyard, mark this unusual blend of Saperavi and Sereksiya grapes. Tart black-fruit flavors accented with
swathes of fresh herbs are a bit lean on the palate,
but the acidity is gentle. Its dry and easy drinking
in style with smooth, gentle tannins. A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $55
OTHER RED WINES
89
Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards 2010 Cabernet Franc

(Finger Lakes). This aromatic wine is lovely
on the nose with notes of red cherries and blossoms.
Its dry in style but lusciously textured with a palate that intensifies and ripens with black plum and
cherry flavors. Finishes long with a spray of delicate
florals. A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $22
88
Damiani 2010 Reserve Cabernet Franc (Finger Lakes). Black pepper and rustic bramble
notes accent tart black-cherry flavors in this dry,
full-bodied wine. Its lushly textured but elegantly
balanced with brisk cranberry acidity and soft tannins that linger on the finish. A.I.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $43
88
Peconic Bay Winery 2010 Malbec (North Fork

of Long Island). Fresh and youthful, its intensely juicy with flavors of black cherry and berry
intensified with swathes of fresh herb and menthol.
Supple and ripe on the palate, it holds just a mur-
mur of tannins. Finishes long with a delicate earthiness hinting at its future development. A.I.
abv: 12.4%
Price: $36
87
Ospreys Dominion 2010 Malbec (North Fork

of Long Island). Hints of hay and mushroom
against a backdrop of crisp blackberry and plum
lend attractive maturity and rusticity to this Malbec (blended with Merlot and Tannat). Its robust
on the palate with intense black fruit flavors, penetrating tannins and a warmth that lingers on the
finish. Drink now. A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $40
86
Standing Stone 2010 The Dark Red Saperavi

(Finger Lakes). Crushed granite notes lend
a distinct minerality to ripe black cherry and plum
flavors in this wine made from the Georgian (the republic, not the state) Saperavi grape. Its dry in style
with a delicate frame marked by gentle tannins and
soft acidity. A.I.
abv: 12.4%
Price: $30
SWEET WINES
91
Hermann J. Wiemer 2010 Noble Select Josef

Vineyard Riesling (Seneca Lake). Saffron and
honey notes are earthy and dusty in profile, but add
striking complexity to a palate thats concentrated
with peach and orange flavors. Strong acidity cuts
through layers of luscious honey and fruit, before
finishing on a pleasantly floral note. Cellar Selection. A.I.
abv: 6.8%
Price: $95
90
Hermann J. Wiemer 2009 Noble Select Josef Vineyard Riesling (Seneca Lake). Dusty
mineral notes lend complexity to unctuously sweet
flavors of preserved peach and marmalade in this
late harvest, botrytized Riesling. Delicate on the
palate, it balances tight citrus acidity with long
streaks of honey and saffron that linger on the finish. Cellar Selection. A.I.
abv: 6.3%
Price: $95
88
Heron Hill 2010 Bunch Select Late Harvest

Riesling (Finger Lakes). Honey and almond
notes lend a nutty earthiness to lifted citrus aromas.
Its concentrated with sweet tangerine flavor, and
has a sharp, zesty acidity that drives a moderately
long finish. A.I.
abv: 11%
Price: $34/375 ml
88
Heron Hill 2010 Late Harvest Vidal Blanc

(Finger Lakes). Citrus and peach aromas
introduce this exotically floral wine. Sweet with
honey and blossom notes, it balances rich, luscious
texture with zesty acidity and a hint of minerals on
the finish. A.I.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $18
WINEMAG.COM | 117
BUYINGGUIDE
91
SPIRITS
Blanco
margarita
sodek
much
more
dek goesTequila:
here dek
goes herematerial
dek goesand
here
goes
here
hether you call it blanco, silver or plata,

category most often used in cocktails. Try adding
these unaged (or barely aged) Tequilas
crme de cassis and ginger beer to make a spicy
are worth a second look.
diablo, or grapefruit soda to top up a refreshing
Layer on some barrel age, and you
paloma.
have reposado (rested) Tequila; a longer turn
The go-to blanco cocktail is the classic marin the barrel yields anejo (aged) Tequila. But
garita. Just add fresh lime juice, orange liqueur
some purists believe that blanco
and a generous scoop of ice, and
Tequila is the only real Tequiyoure good to gofruity variaSome purists
laan unadorned distillation of
tions optional.
the agave plant.
Try this blueprint from Amy
believe that blanco
Its also an excellent canvas
Zavottos The Architecture of the
Tequila is the only
for showcasing differences in terCocktail: 2 ounces silver Tequila,
real Tequila
roir. Most Tequila originates in
1 ounce Cointreau and ounce
an unadorned
Jalisco, Mexico. Those made from
lime juice, shaken with ice and
agave plants grown in the highstrained into a salt-rimmed mardistillation of the
lands area tend to have a fruity,
tini glass.
agave plant.
floral, herbaceous quality, while
However you prefer your marin the lowlands, the volcanic soils
garita, be sure that your Tequila
yield an earthier, drier Tequila. Taking it a step
is labeled 100% blue agaveanything less is confurther, some small producers specify particular
sidered a mixto, often half agave, half random
estates where the agave plants were grown.
sources of sugar (read: hangover city). All of the
Compared to reposados and anejos, blancos
brands reviewed here are 100% agave, so grab a
tend to be reasonably priced, making them the
bottle and start mixing!
Kara Newman
95
Reserva Tequila Partida Blanco (Mexico; Partida Tequila, San Francisco, CA). For full review see page 79.
abv: 40%
Price: $40
94
Siete Leguas Tequila Blanco (Mexico; Sazerac/Gemini Wines & Spirits, Chicago, IL).
Zesty and spicy, this highlands Tequila shows dried
herbs, jalapeo, lemon peel and black pepper, all
wrapped up in a clean finish. The alcohol levels feel
surprisingly restrained for a blanco. Consider pairing alongside rich or fried foods.
abv: 40%
Price: $40
93
Cruz Silver Tequila (Mexico; Los Diablos Intl,

Scottsdale, AZ). A refined, classic take on
blanco, this Tequila has a soft feel and rounded agave sweetness. The peppery heatmore cayenne and
cinnamon than vegetal jalapeois muted at first,
but builds with repeated sips.
abv: 40%
Price: $45
92
Casamigos Tequila Blanco (Mexico; Serralles

USA, Irving, TX). Co-owned by actor George
Clooney and nightlife impresario Rande Gerber,
this blanco is smooth and light. The aromas are
restrained, but on the palate look for mild agave
sweetness backed by lemon zest, ginger and white
pepper sparks, plus a candied lemon-peel note on

the gentle exit.
abv: 40%
Price: $43
91
Tequila Don Ramon Silver (Mexico; ER Distributors, San Antonio, TX). Pleasantly peppery,
this silver Tequila offers plenty of citrus, jalapeo
and a clean finish. It provides a versatile backdrop
for mixing a wide range of cocktails. Best Buy.
abv: 40%
Price: $24
92
Tequila Gran Dovejo Blanco (Mexico; Mendez

Imports, Dixon, CA). Inside the handsome,
hefty bottle are spice-rack aromas. But the flavors
are light and complex, interlacing honey with lime
zest, mineral and faint white flowers that float off
at the end. A top pick for pitchers of high-end margaritas.
abv: 40%
Price: $44
91
El Charro Tequila Silver (Mexico; Sazerac/

Gemini Wines & Spirits, Chicago, IL). Given
some time to open up, this silver Tequila almost
reads like an eau-de-vie, with subtle plum notes,
agave sweetness and a peppery zing on the brisk
finish. That peppery presence builds with repeated
sips. Best Buy.
abv: 40%
Price: $19
Milagro Select Barrel Reserve Silver (Mexico;

William Grant & Sons, New York, NY). Delicate
and light, and presented in a gorgeous bottle with a
spiky glass pia (agave) blown inside. The mild, almost
neutral aroma hints at vanilla. The feather-light flavors
seem to float off the tongue, suggesting vanilla, jalapeo, granite and a flicker of cayenne sizzle on the exit.
abv: 40%
Price: $53
91
Tequila Platinum Baron Blanco (Mexico; MHW,

Manhasset, NY). For full review see page 80.
abv: 40%
Price: $55
91
Tequila Reserva de Don Julio Blanco (Mexico;

Diageo Americas, Norwalk, CT). The aroma is
on the sweet side, mixing honeyed and grassy notes
with a touch of fresh pear. Its sweet and fruity on
the palate as well, with a light, silky feel and a flourish of baking spice on the crisp finish.
abv: 40%
Price: $45
90
Chinaco Blanco Tequila (Mexico; Anchor Distilling, San Francisco, CA). Look for mild,
herbaceous aromas and a fleeting orange-peel note
on the palate, concluding with a jalapeo snap. The
alcohol is well balanced.
abv: 40%
Price: $30
90
Tequila Arette Artesanal Suave Blanco (Mexico; Wine Warehouse, Commerce, CA). Close
your eyes and you might think thats tomato juice
in the glass. Its clear, but the fragrance is zesty,
lemony and yes, fresh tomato-like. On the palate,
dried oregano and green pepper come forward, plus
a trace of tomato savoriness, and it finishes light,
with lively lemon zest. Its mouthwatering, with
moderate alcohol feel.
abv: 40%
Price: $40
90
Tequila Corazon Blanco (Mexico; Sazerac/

Gemini Wines & Spirits, Chicago, IL). The
super-fruity aroma suggests peaches and pears. On
the palate, its more lean and green, with jalapeo
pepper and black pepper smoothed with agave. The
fruitiness just peeks out on the finish.
abv: 40%
Price: $40
90
Tequila Corazon Expresione Blanco Artisanal

Edition (Mexico; Sazerac/Gemini Wines &
Spirits, Chicago, IL). Very different from the standard-issue Corazon Blanco, this joint effort between
Tequila Master Distiller Miguel Cedeno Cruz and
whiskey-barrel expert Harlen Wheatley is aged
in former Bourbon and rye casks from Sazeracs
collection. Earthy yet fruity, this blanco brings
mushrooms and bruised apples to mind. The finish displays some alcohol heat, and shows flashes of
ginger, white pepper, eucalyptus and anise.
abv: 40%
Price: $70
90
Tequila Terra Firme Blanco (Mexico; Double

Eagle Imports, Alpharetta, GA). The sweet
aroma layers agave and citrus with a faintly minty
note. Look for that and more on the palate, as flavors of jalapeo and cayenne peppers round the
bases into a citrusy, crisp finish. Best Buy.
abv: 40%
Price: $24
CLASSIFIEDS
BEER
INTERNATIONAL
CORKSCREW AUCTION
Lagers to welcome in summer
Online Bidding Apr. 18 May 10, 2014
cent mouthfeels. Both typically have moderate

lthough we havent gotten to the truly hot
alcohol (between 4.0% and 6.0% abv) and carmonths yet, May is a great time to take a
bonation levels, and are frequently intended as
look at some of the beer styles you should
session beers.
get to know ahead of all of the upcoming
Then there are Pilsners (or Pilseners, or Pils
seasons outdoor entertaining. Although perfor short). Overall, Pils are known for their light
sonal preferences vary, the one beer style thats
color, low alcohol and immense drinkability.
sure to quench your thirst on those hot days at
Born in the 19th century city of Plzen in the
the park, the barbecue or the poolside bash is
Czech Republic (or Pilsen in
lager.
Bohemia), Czech Pilseners are
Known for being crispThe one beer
pale lagers, light straw to golder, cleaner and more refreshing than ales, lagers are lighter
style thats sure to en in color with a crystal-clear
in body and alcohol while bequench your thirst appearance. One of the defining
characteristics of these brews
ing moderate to high in carbonon those hot days is the use of the noble Saaz
ation. Two of the more common
styles for summer entertaining at the park, the bar- hop, which can produce lovely,
are Euro pale lagers and Ameribecue or the pool- spicy-bitter aromas and flavors.
German Pilsners are simican adjunct lagers.
side bash is lager.
lar to Czech Pilseners but use a
Euro pale lagers generally
wider variety of hops.
have low to moderate aromas,
Heres to the warm days ahead, and to being
flavors and bitterness, and are backed by a solprepared with a fridge full of refreshing brews.
id malt body, while American adjunct lagers ofProst!
Lauren Buzzeo
fer little to no hop presence and light, efferves-
88
87
87
86
Pilsner Urquell (Czech Pilsener; Plzensky

Prazdroj, Czech Republic). Considered by
many brewers to be the original Pilsner and a benchmark for the style, this is a highly refreshing and wellbalanced selection thats very sessionable. Light gold
in color, faint aromas of bready grain, fresh-cut grass
and herbal hops lead the bouquet. The mouthfeel is
smooth and bright, with moderate carbonation and
subtle flavors of sweet malts and biscuit dough, with
a tough of spicy hop character that carries through to
the dry, clean finish. Pilsner Urquell USA.
abv: 4.4%
Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack
Herrmannsdorfer Schweinsbru Gold Bavarian Lager (Munich Helles Lager; Herrmannsdorfer Schweinsbru, Germany). This clean, highly
refreshing selection pours a clear light-gold color,
with a frothy off-white head that lingers. Initial aromas of mildly sweet malts open the bouquet, with
secondary notes of grain, hay and subtle accents of
grassy hops and honey. A hint of mineral adds character to the palate, which is clean and well balanced
thanks to slightly tart and astringent notes that
counter the sweet malt flavors. This would be an
ideal match for a plate of cured meats and cheeses.
Magellan Wine Imports.
abv: 4.8%
Price: $4/500 ml
Theresianer Premium Lager (Euro pale lager;

HTS 1892, Italy). Clear yellow in color with
a small but lingering white head, this looks bright,
clean and refreshing right from the startand it is.
The aromas are very faint, with soft hints of husky
grain, dried grass and herbal hops. A mild bitterness
adds interest to the lightly flavored palate and a bit
of texture to the otherwise smooth and light mouthfeel. This is highly drinkable, with a clean and malty
finish. Magellan Wine Imports.
abv: 4.8%
Price: $2/12 oz
Wolters Pilsener (German Pilsener; Hofbrauhaus Wolters, Germany). Heres a sessionable Pils that pours a crystal-clear clean gold color
with a thin white head. Theres a faint mineral and
skunky edge to the nose that dissipates with time,
leaving soft scents of grassy grain and malt. The palate is quite grainy and green, with flavors of husk,
crushed malt and a touch of grassy hops. The body
is light, with medium carbonation and a crisp, clean
finish that makes this an ideal session selection.
Iron Horse Beverage LLC.
abv: 4.9%
Price: $7/11.2 oz 6 pack
900+ antique & collectible

corkscrews selling from $100
to over $5,000.
Philos Blake:
1st U.S. Pat.
Corkscrew
(1860) Sold in
Recent Auction
For $8,000
Auction conducted
by collectors for
collectors with low
fees. Also browse
past auction sales
results of 5000
corkscrews.
Details for April May Auction at

CollectorCorkscrews.com/ wine/
SOFTWARE
WINE CELLAR SOFTWARE.
Cellaring guide plus inventory management with rack display. Charts and reports show cellar contents, wines added
or consumed. Decanter called it good
fun. Free trial from www.uncork.biz
The Cure for the

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WINEMAG.COM | 119
lastdrop
THE WINEMAKER IN THE BASEMENT

A writer remembers his grandfathers homemade wine.
BY AL VUONA
In broken English he would insist madre

natura bestowed upon him his winemaking
gifts. And he was always saying how making
wine at home was an Italian tradition, and a
practically mandatory custom in his family.
He was proud of his winesometimes a
bit too proud. If a sip elicited anything but
an oh-this-is-delicious smile, his thick,
bushy eyebrows would rise as he muttered
a few Italian curses.
But most of the time his pride was evident in his desire to share his creation
with neighbors, friends and family. My
grandfather believed wine was a rite of
passage, especially for the men and boys
in the family. By allowing me to assist him
and even taste a little of his often-pungent
batches, he hoped I would develop a lifelong
appreciation for wine.
It worked.
GS/GALLERY STOCK
y grandfather was a self-taught

winemaker. The grapes he
used werent wine grapes, but
locally grown Concords. And
his winery and cellar was the
dark, cool basement of his two-bedroom
house in a working-class neighborhood
outside Boston.
For bottles, he used mason jars that had
once held everything from pickles to pigs
feet. And for the better part of 40 years he
continued to churn out jar after jar of his
barely drinkable, sweet red wine.
Our traditional Sunday meal included
mountains of pasta and meatballs, and
homemade sauce. To my grandfather,
the meal wasnt complete without his
homemade vino. After tearing into his
food and washing it down with his red, he
would lean back, belly full, and declare,
soddisfatto.
I once asked why he never bothered to
label his jars, or keep track of vintages. He
sat back in his favorite chair, with a big
grin holding a glass of wine, and said over
and over, una bella cosa, which means a
beautiful thing. Labels werent important,
he explained, the proof of any wine is simply
whats in the glass.
Gran Reserva 2001
Top Wine
of the Year
2013
97 point rating
January 2014
2014 Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL
A jewel at this price...

it was perfect.
PalmBay.com
#1 out of more than

3200 wines reviewed.
bodegasfaustino.com

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650+

THE WORLD IN YOUR GLASS

$5.99 US & CANADA

THE NEW RAW BAR WINES

GREAT SEAFOOD PAIRINGS

Finding a new favorite wine has never been more exciting.

NAPA OFF THE GRID

COVER PHOTO: MEG BAGGOTT

2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2014

OUT & ABOUT

Baja Meets NYC

Farmers Market Cocktail Club

Napa Mountain High

4 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2014

VOLUME 27, NUMBER 4

PUBLISHER & EDITOR Adam M. Strum

6 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2014

NAPA MOUNTAIN HIGH

YOULL FIND AMAZING

42, Contributing Editor Virginie Boone

COMING NEXT MONTH

8 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2014

COMPLETE GUIDE TO CHILI

THE MUSIC ISSUE

RICHARD FREEDA , MONICA STEVENSON

inding the road less traveled is a

LEFTOVER WINE RECIPES

Waste not! If youve popped one too

In honor of our feature about

Truchard 2012 Roussanne

I always love Spottswoode SB

One of my favorite #PNV14 lots

The onions in this decadent

10 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2014

BAJA MEETS NYC OPENING PARTY,

12 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2014

Wines made passionately

2014 J. Lohr Vineyards & Wines, San Jose, CA

THE FARMERS MARKET

For syrup, combine equal

CUCUMBERS Queens Cup

Muddle all but the soda,

LAVENDER The Lavender

Muddle lavender and

LETTUCE Gordons Healthy Lunch

16 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2014

Juice lettuce. Shake

PEAS Awww Snap

For the infused gin,

CILANTRO Mango En Fuego Paloma

Stir everything but the

BEETS Action Bronson

Shake everything with

CELERY Celery Bubbly Cocktail

Pure a celery stalk

TOMATO & ROSEMARY Breakfast for Dinner

For the tomato water,

MONICA STEVENSON; STYLING: LINDEN ELSTRAN

3 oz Brut sparkling wine

SOLVING THE LEFTOVER