OVER 230 AWARD WINNERS REVEALED

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 EDITOR’S WORD
CHRISTOPHER COATES

THE SCIENCE OF WHISKY

A key to unlocking the real magic

I
t is a strange thing how two the forbidden fruit that robs us of our when properly examined and held up
quite separate ideas can coexist ‹‘…‡…‡Ǥ—–Š‘”•‘ˆ–‡•ƒ›–Šƒ––Š‡ against my conscious beliefs.
peacefully in one’s mind, never real magic of a story is in the parts left Raised on a healthy diet of rulers,
coming into contact until circumstance —–‘Ž†ǡ„—–•…‹‡…‡ϐ‹ŽŽ•‹–Š‡‰ƒ’•Ǥ scales, scepticism, microscopes, trips
causes them to collide. On one hand, I suppose that when one has to the local science centre and books
we are taught to revere the historic art been told for so long that something ƒ„‘—–ǡ–Š‡”‡ǯ•‘’‘‹–‹›
of whisky making, based on intuition, is magic, the act of pulling up the life that I can recall when I wasn’t
tradition and experience. On the other, illusionist’s sleeves to expose the taught to respect the holy trinity of
that data, hard facts and rigorous hidden mechanism or pointing out rational thought, empirical evidence
assessment is the only true basis upon the wires suspending the levitating and objective, emotionless assessment.
which any decision should be made. assistant feels somewhat taboo. “Don’t ›ϐ‹”•–’”‘’‡”’”‹ƒ”›•…Š‘‘Ž’”‘Œ‡…–
Hearing stories about old customs spoil the trick,” begs the child inside (when aged about seven), was about
and time-honoured practices make us all of us, as we desperately try to cosmic rays, for Pete’s sake. I even
feel warm and fuzzy inside, the adult made a little illustrated book on the
equivalent of a bedtime story. “But why
are things done that way?” we ask the
Insights of engineers, •—„Œ‡…–Ȃ‘‡‘ˆ›ϐ‹”•–’—„Ž‹…ƒ–‹‘•ǡ
now I think about it.
distiller manager in earnest. Because food scientists and For me, however, the emptiness I felt
that’s the way it was done by the last yeast biologists feel ™Š‡–Š‡˜‡‹Ž†”‘’’‡††‹†ǯ–Žƒ•–Ǥ—”‡ǡ
generation and the generation before there was a day, I’m not sure when
that, we are told with a knowing smile. almost irreverent exactly, that I realised I’d read just a bit
“That’s just the way it is.” too much of the whisky library, been
Meanwhile, perhaps subliminally, hang on to that sense of wonder and on one too many distillery tours and
the new way of doing things, based amazement from before. “I need to attended just enough masterclasses to
on the sterile insights of biologists, believe in something.” see how they’re pulled off. For a time,
chemists and physicists, are portrayed Of course, once the hidden it felt like the magic was gone.
to be somehow not quite the same. compartment inside the wardrobe has Then I delved deeper. I started
To hell with the advantages, they’re been pointed out, there’s no going back reading academic journals (which
new, strange, lesser. What exactly the to believing it’s a vanishing cabinet and ‘ˆ–‡ϐ‹”•–”‡“—‹”‡†‰‘‹‰ƒ™ƒ›–‘
•…‹‡–‹ϐ‹…ƒ’’”‘ƒ…ŠŽƒ…•‹•Šƒ”†–‘•ƒ›Ǥ that the audience member has really watch ‘Chemistry for Dummies’-type
Is it less genuine, less true? That would †‹•ƒ’’‡ƒ”‡†ǤŠ‡‘‡ϐ‹ƒŽŽ›‘™• videos on YouTube) and asking more
„‡’ƒ”ƒ†‘š‹…ƒŽ„›†‡ϐ‹‹–‹‘Ǥ”‡–Š‡› the source of those shadows on the complicated questions of any poor
less human, then? cave wall, they can never be anything distiller who’d take my calls, even
Perhaps purely due to nothing more than shadows. when those questions made me feel a
more than simple, sanguine nostalgia, †ǡ–Š‘—‰Š–Š‹•™‹•–ˆ—Ž‡••ƒ† little stupid. Little by little, the feeling
the skills handed down over the a tendency to hark after the ‘good started coming back.
generations, which have been honed old days’ is common enough among The more I learned, the more I
through decades or even centuries of whisky lovers (and therefore an easy ”‡Ž‡ƒ•‡†‡™‘–Š‹‰Ǥ—”‡ǡ…‘—Ž†
trial and error, have become sacred ”—––‘ˆƒŽŽ‹–‘Ȍǡ–Š‡‘”‡”‡ϐŽ‡…–‘ see the wires now, but how were they
totems, while the insights of engineers, this instinctive reverence of the past suspended and why in that way? It’s
food scientists and yeast biologists and its practices, the more I realise true, whisky making isn’t really magic
feel almost irreverent. They hand us how utterly inconsistent the position is – it’s better than that. It’s science.

Issue 174 | Whisky Magazine 3

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CORRECTIONS & CLARIFICATIONS
60
Whisky Magazine #174, April issue. In Whisky Magazine issue #173, when
This title is published eight times a year
listing the awards results for Icons of
54
(Jan, Feb/Mar, Apr, May/Jun, Jul, Aug/Sep, Oct, Nov)
ISSN 1464–7648 Whisky Ireland, we incorrectly named the
Annual subscription rates are UK £59.20,
Europe £68.72, US/Can £74.72, ROW £74.72. winner of Distillery Manager of the Year
Subscribe online via our secure server at: as Alan Dempsey of Royal Oak Distillery.
www.whiskymag.com or subscribe by
phone +44 (0) 1293 312 196 (Mon-Fri 9am-5pm) Alan is in fact the general manager of the
(please note calls to this number may be monitored for distillery and the winner was actually Lisa
training and quality assurance purposes).
Subscribe by post to: Whisky Magazine, Ryan, Distillery Manager of Royal Oak
Intermedia, Unit 6 The Enterprise Centre, Distillery. We apologise to Alan, Lisa and
Kelvin Lane, Manor Royal, Crawley, RH10 9PE
Subscription enquiries: [email protected] the team at Royal Oak for this data error
Distributed by SEYMOUR and congratulate Lisa for her success in
NORTH AMERICA (USA & Canada) Icons of Whisky Ireland 2021.
Whisky Magazine June issue (ISSN 1464-7648, USPS 018-
103) is published 9 times per year (Feb, March, April, June,
July, Aug, Sept, Nov and Dec) by Paragraph Publishing, 6 Cover image: © Paragraph
Woolgate Court, St. Benedicts Street, Norwich, Norfolk, NR2 A selection of the World Whiskies Awards 2021 winners.
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 66

ON T
48 COVEHRE
PAGE 8
3

In this issue...

07 Whisky Live 42 Inchgower intrigue

An update regarding Whisky Live Visiting a lesser-known distillery
events around the world behind some of the top Scotch blends
08 To science! 48 A glass for all whisky
Maggie Kimberl raises a glass Looking back on 20 years of the
to the chemists Glencairn whisky glass
10 By the numbers 54 The power of visibility
Liza Weisstuch reports back from the Marianne Eaves on her journey from
83 Whisky Magazine Awards
',6&86HFRQRPLFEULHÀQJ chemical engineering to distilling
85 Awards contents
12 Antediluvian whisky 60 Remembering Willie Pratt
Chris Middleton explores the ancient Celebrating the life of an American 86 Introduction
origins of uisge beatha whiskey giant 87 Icons of Whisky: India
16 The peat provenance mystery 66 The race to 100 &HOHEUDWLQJWKHFRXQWU\·VÀQHVW
Investigating the PPM rating and Will we ever see whisky aged for an 88 Icons of Whisky: Global
regional peat styles HQWLUHFHQWXU\" Which of our regional winners
24 A natural nose 70 Tastings KDYHWULXPSKHG"
Why female biology makes for better Blind reviewing the latest batch 97 Hall of Fame
whisky tasters 80 This travelling life Welcoming our new inductee
30 Tatlock & Thomson Billy Walker on science, travel and a 98 World Whiskies Awards 2021
Meet the scientists helping whisky lifetime in whisky Which whiskies will be crowned
makers achieve spirit perfection 82 Caskaway as World’s Best in each of our
36 Proof of entry Distell’s Julieann Fernandez shares FDWHJRULHVWKLV\HDU"
,VÀOOVWUHQJWKUHDOO\WKDWLPSRUWDQW" her desert island drams
 Sponsored by Glencairn Crystal

LIGHT ON THE HORIZON

Whisky Live will return

With restrictions still making it challenging explore whether it may be possible to deliver
to hold live events, some of our Whisky a similar experience outside of the UK.
Live organisers have begun to look at Furthermore, with restrictions easing in some
alternative options and the UK show, Whisky countries and a path to post-pandemic life
Live London, will run once again in 2021 „‡‰‹‹‰–‘„‡…‘‡‘”‡†‡ϐ‹‡†ǡ–Š‡–‡ƒ•
as Whisky Live At Home. Following the behind Whisky Live events all over the world
resounding success of the 2020 ‘at home’ are also looking forward to and planning
show, the UK team have been delighted by for the time when our much-loved whisky
ticket holders’ excellent engagement with tasting events can indeed become ‘live’ once
the online content, which was composed more. Wherever you are in the world, please
of more than 15 hours of video interviews, keep an eye on the social media channels
and the outpouring of positive feedback on of your local show, along with our website
social media. The team will continue to work (www.whiskylive.com) to keep abreast of the
with our partners around the world and most recent developments in your area.

Whisky Live Adelaide, Brisbane, Canberra, Melbourne, Whisky Live London

Perth, Sydney and Icons of Whisky Australia James Houlder [email protected]
Ken Bromfield ...................................... [email protected] Whisky Live Manila
Doug Van Tienen ......................... [email protected] Johnssen Li [email protected]
Whisky Live Athens, Thessaloniki Whisky Live Moscow
Teresa [email protected] Daniil Vinner [email protected]
Whisky Live Bangkok Whisky Live Paris
Louis Haseman ........................ [email protected] Nicolas LeBrun .............................. [email protected]
Whisky Live Beirut Whisky Live Singapore
Joumana Salame [email protected] Sébastien [email protected]
Whisky Live Buenos Aires Whisky Live and Whisky Luxe Taipei
Daniel Rodin ................................... [email protected] Eric Huang [email protected]
Whisky Live Cape Town, Durban, Johannesburg, Pretoria Whisky Live Tel Aviv
Michelle Kirby [email protected] Tomer Goren [email protected]
Whisky Live Changsha, Xiamen, Whisky Luxe Chengdu Whisky Live The Hague
and Icons of Whisky China Wouter Wapenaar......................... [email protected]
Jazz Jia ................................... [email protected]
Whisky Live Warsaw
Whisky Live Chicago, New York Jaroslaw Buss .................................. [email protected]
Jamie Brodie............................... [email protected]
Icons of Whisky Japan, World Whiskies Awards and
Whiskey Live Dublin Gin Live Tokyo
Ally Alpine [email protected] Kimitaka Toyama [email protected]
Whisky Live Hong Kong Icons of Whisky India
Eddie Chui ................................. [email protected] Sandeep Arora [email protected]
Whisky Live Jakarta
Andrew Soetiono ................... [email protected]

Find out more at www.whiskylive.com

Issue 143 | Whisky Magazine 7

 THOUGHTS FROM
MAGGIE KIMBERL

TO SCIENCE!
Raising a glass to the chemists

J
ulian P. ‘Pappy’ Van Winkle uses the sour mashing technique. Sour pretty good job without them.
was famous for his disdain for mashing takes some of the last batch But in all things, it’s best to maintain
chemists. There is a photo of of distiller’s beer and throws it into an abundance mentality, and this
him at the distillery he owned, Stitzel- the new batch to ensure that bacterial especially goes for anything that can
Weller, standing next to a sign that colonies aren’t able to take hold and be improved through science. Sorry,
proclaimed: No Chemists Allowed! The harm the necessary yeast colonies. distillers of the 1800s and early 1900s;
feeling among a lot of the original folks At the start of the pandemic I began chemistry has played a big part in
in the post-regulation industrial days of to see concern that we were running improving the process of distilling.
distilling, particularly in Kentucky, was out of yeast in stores. I went to Conor Woodford Reserve master distiller
that they didn’t need a scientist telling O’Driscoll, master distiller for Heaven Chris Morris once told me that he’d
them what they already knew. Hill Brands, to get his take. Aside from done a chemical analysis on some
Decades before Julian Van Winkle his history of managing the yeast at older whiskey and found all kinds
was on the scene, Oscar Pepper hired Woodford Reserve, he’s also a baker of not-great stuff in there, including
James Crow as a distiller, who set about fusel oils, which are part of the natural
distillation process that we now know
modernising the sanitation practices of
distilling. Crow was said to have been
Science has taken the to get rid of.
university educated back in Scotland, already wondrous Science has taken the already
but there is evidence he may have process of distillation wondrous process of distillation and
learned by sitting in the pub after the dialled it in to maximise yield, safety,
university’s classes let out and buying and dialled it in... quality, and more. Science has also
drinks for anyone willing to share the created space for women and People
day’s lessons with him, according to of some fantastic sourdough breads. I of Colour to thrive in this industry.
Bourbon historian Michael Veach. had learned from him years before that The story of Elmer Lucille Allen, the
Either way, Crow had a good yeast was everywhere and wanted to ϐ‹”•–Žƒ……Š‡‹•–Š‹”‡†„›”‘™Ǧ
understanding of the impact better get his historical perspective not only Forman, was recently highlighted in
•ƒ‹–ƒ–‹‘™‘—Ž†Šƒ˜‡‘–Š‡ϐ‹ƒŽ on how to capture and cultivate it, but our local news in Louisville, Kentucky.
product. Veach says that among Crow’s also how humans were able to harness After graduating from college with
innovations were keeping livestock it before there were even microscopes a chemistry degree in 1953, she had
further away from the distillery (they to see what was going on. †‹ˆϐ‹…—Ž–›ϐ‹†‹‰™‘”ƒ•ƒ…Š‡‹•–
were kept in close proximity to their Interestingly, O’Driscoll told me that „‡ˆ‘”‡ϐ‹ƒŽŽ›„‡‹‰Š‹”‡†„›”‘™Ǧ
food source, spent grains from mash), throughout history people knew there Forman in 1966, where she worked
using a saccharometer to measure the was a certain process they could follow until she retired. Brown-Forman was
sugar content in the distiller’s beer, and that would yield certain results. As far also where Peggy Noe Stevens, founder
the sour mash process of using backset back as Ancient Egypt (probably even of Bourbon Women, was trained as
to control the pH of the distiller’s before that) people were fermenting –Š‡ϐ‹”•–™‘ƒƒ•–‡”–ƒ•–‡”‹–Š‡
beer, which prevented unwanted beer, and there are fermented products Kentucky Bourbon industry.
bacteria from taking over the mash. like pickles, sauerkraut, kimchi, mead, Š‡”‡ǯ•†‡ϐ‹‹–‡Ž›ƒƒ”––‘ƒ‹‰
These practices are largely still in use and more in every culture throughout whiskey, and that art is enhanced
today. While sweet mash whiskeys, human history. By the time chemists „›•…‹‡–‹ϐ‹…‘™Ž‡†‰‡Ǥ…‹‡…‡ǡƒ•
which use no backset, are gaining came around, folks like James Crow and they say, still exists even if you don’t
popularity, almost every distillery still Julian Van Winkle were already doing a believe in it.

8 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

 THOUGHTS FROM
LIZA WEISSTUCH

BY THE NUMBERS
6DOHV¿JXUHVGRQ¶WWHOOWKHZKROHVWRU\

T
he news certainly wasn’t great, …ƒ–ƒ•–”‘’Š‹…ƒ•‡š’‡…–‡†Ǥ‡˜‡—‡‹ DzŠ‹•Šƒ•„‡‡—Ž‹‡ƒ›‘–Š‡”
but it was less harrowing than the US was up 7.7 per cent, to a total ”‡…‡••‹‘–Šƒ–™‡ǯ˜‡‡š’‡”‹‡…‡†ǡdz
I expected. In late January, ‘ˆ̈́͵ͳǤʹ„‹ŽŽ‹‘‹ʹͲʹͲǡƒ†˜‘Ž—‡• ƒ™•‘Š‹–‹‰ǡ…Š‹‡ˆ‡š‡…—–‹˜‡‘ˆ
the Distilled Spirits Council of the rose 5.3 per cent to 251 million 9-litre ”‘™Ǧ ‘”ƒǡ–‘Ž†–Š‡ƒŽŽ–”‡‡–
United States (DISCUS) held its annual cases. Spirits saw the 11th straight Journal in January. “In the US, ultra-
‡…‘‘‹…„”‹‡ϐ‹‰Ȃ˜‹”–—ƒŽŽ›ǡ‘„˜‹‘—•Ž›Ǥ year of market share gains. If an alien and super-premium spirits are gaining
I always look forward to this winter ‡…‘‘‹•–ƒ””‹˜‡†ˆ”‘ƒ†‹•–ƒ–‰ƒŽƒš› share at faster rates than in the pre-
gathering, one of the rare opportunities and looked at the numbers, it wouldn’t ‘˜‹†–‹‡’‡”‹‘†•Ǥdz
Ž‹ˆ‡•–›Ž‡™”‹–‡”•Ž‹‡‡Šƒ˜‡–‘‹‰Ž‡ ‡…‡••ƒ”‹Ž›‰—‡••–Šƒ–ƒ†‡ƒ†Ž›˜‹”—• Š‡”‡•–ƒ—”ƒ–‹†—•–”›‹•ǯ––Š‡
with business journalists and stock ™ƒ•™”‡ƒ‹‰Šƒ˜‘…‘Š—ƒ‹†Ǥ only cause for worry. Pages of analysis
analysts. It’s sort of like talking about —––Š‘•‡„—Ž›—„‡”•‘„•…—”‡ could be written about the damage
‘˜‹‡•™‹–Š’‡‘’Ž‡™Š‘™ƒ–…Š–Š‡ˆ‘” –Š‡ϐ‹‡†‡–ƒ‹Ž•ǤŠƒ–‰”‘™–Š‹•–Š‡ –Š‡”‡–ƒŽ‹ƒ–‘”›–ƒ”‹ˆˆ•Šƒ˜‡™”‘—‰Š–Ǥ
their technical merits, instead of with •—‘ˆƒ˜‡”›ƒ•›‡–”‹…‡“—ƒ–‹‘Ǥ …‘–…Š˜‘Ž—‡•ƒ”‡†‘™͸Ǥͷ’‡”
my fellow liberal-arts types who home cent to 2.4 million cases. Meanwhile,
since the EU’s 25 per cent tariff on US
in on characters and plotlines.
ǯ˜‡ƒ––‡†‡†–Š‡ƒ—ƒŽ„”‹‡ϐ‹‰
Spirits continuously ™Š‹•‡›‹ʹͲͳͺǡ–Š‡˜ƒŽ—‡‘ˆ‡”‹…ƒ
ˆ‘”ƒ„‘—–ƒ†‡…ƒ†‡ƒ†‡˜‡”››‡ƒ” gobble up market whiskey exports to the UK and EU
–Š‡•–‘”›’Žƒ›•‘—–˜ƒ‰—‡Ž›–Š‡•ƒ‡ǣ share from beer Šƒ˜‡†‡…”‡ƒ•‡†ͷ͵’‡”…‡–ƒ†
”‡˜‡—‡•‰”‘™ǡ„—–‘–„‡…ƒ—•‡’‡‘’Ž‡ ͵ͺ’‡”…‡–ǡ”‡•’‡…–‹˜‡Ž›Ǥ
are drinking more, they’re drinking and wine Pages will also be written about
better. Lesser-recognised categories the US craft spirits industry when we
can grow exponentially. Irish whiskey Strong retail (or off-premise) sales come out on the other side of this. I
became the gold standard of the were counterbalanced by meagre can only hope that they’re not pages
‘little engine that could’ story as its on-premise sales, which were down ‘ˆ‘„‹–—ƒ”‹‡•ǤDz ƒ‹Ž›†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”‹‡•Šƒ˜‡
popularity exploded. Rye got so trendy „›ƒ„‘—–ͶͶ’‡”…‡–ǤŠ”‘—‰Š‘—––Š‡ been holding on by a thread throughout
–Šƒ–‡…‘‘‹•–ƒ˜‹†œ‰‘ǡƒ ǡƒ•‡˜‡”›™Š‡”‡‡Ž•‡ǡ–Š‡Š‘•’‹–ƒŽ‹–› –Š‡’ƒ†‡‹…ǡdz•ƒ‹†‘ƒ–‹”‡…‡”
expert where data is concerned, had industry has been decimated. In some ƒ”–ǡ‘™‡”‘ˆ‘˜ƒŽ‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”›‹
to establish it as a whiskey category cities, indoor dining is only starting to Š‹…ƒ‰‘ǤŠ‘•‡–ƒ”‹ˆˆ•Šƒ˜‡’—ŽŽ‡†–Š‡
in its own right for analysis. Spirits tiptoe back, while it remains banned ”—‰‘—–ˆ”‘—†‡”‘˜ƒŽǯ•‰”‘™‹‰
continuously gobble up market share ‹‘–Š‡”•Ǥ‡–™‡‡–Šƒ–ƒ†–Š‡ export business. What’s more, the
from beer and wine, thanks in no small permanent closure of thousands of pandemic forced craft distillers to close
part to the seemingly unending growth ‡•–ƒ„Ž‹•Š‡–•ǡʹǤ͵‹ŽŽ‹‘Œ‘„•Ȃƒ† –ƒ•–‹‰”‘‘•ǡ™Š‹…Š•‡”˜‡ƒ•–‘—”‹•–
of cocktail culture. …‘—–‹‰ȂŠƒ˜‡„‡‡Ž‘•–Ǥ ƒ––”ƒ…–‹‘•ƒ†”‡˜‡—‡•–”‡ƒǤ
ƒ–‹…‹’ƒ–‡†–Š‹•›‡ƒ”ǯ•„”‹‡ϐ‹‰™‹–Š —–’‡‘’Ž‡‡‡’„—›‹‰Ž‹“—‘”Ǥ† Spirits are commonly described
dread, what with the pandemic keeping in keeping with the ole ‘rich get richer’ as an affordable luxury. Decline in
bars, restaurants and sports arenas principle, it was little surprise to learn ‘Ǧ’”‡‹•‡•’‹”‹–•‡š’‡†‹–—”‡•‰ƒ˜‡
mostly shuttered since March. New that high-end premium and super- consumers $20 billion to spend off-
Žƒ™•Ž‡‰ƒŽ‹•‹‰–‘Ǧ‰‘…‘…–ƒ‹Ž•’”‘˜‹†‡† premium categories showed 7.3 per premise. I am not worried about the
‡•–ƒ„Ž‹•Š‡–•‹•‘‡•–ƒ–‡•ƒϐŽ‹•› cent and 12.7 per cent year-on-year spirits companies. Numbers always
Ž‹ˆ‡Ž‹‡ǡ„—–ƒŽ‹ˆ‡Ž‹‡‡˜‡”–Š‡Ž‡••Ǥ—– ”‡˜‡—‡‰”‘™–Šǡ”‡•’‡…–‹˜‡Ž›ǤƒŽ—‡ „‘—…‡„ƒ…ǤŒ—•–™‘””›‡˜‡”›
the story the numbers told wasn’t as spirits showed a 0.3 per cent decline. ™‘”‹‰‹†‹˜‹†—ƒŽ™‘ǯ–Ǥ

10 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

 MYTHBUSTERS
CHRIS MIDDLETON

ANTEDILUVIAN WHISKY
Exploring the ancient origins of uisge beatha

W
Š‘†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡†–Š‡ϐ‹”•– ϐŽƒ˜‘—”‡†™‹–Š„‡‡”ƒ†™‹‡ǡ‹–Š‡Ž’‡† …‘ϐ‹‰—”ƒ–‹‘•ˆ”‘͹ͷͲǤŠ‡•‡
whisky? We know distilling ƒ•ƒ›—’Ž‡ƒ•ƒ––ƒ•–‡•„‡ˆ‘”‡ ™‡”‡…‘’‹‡†„›‡†‹‡˜ƒŽ†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”•‹
began in Mesopotamia, …‘•—’–‹‘ƒ–”‡Ž‹‰‹‘—•ǡ‡†‹…‹ƒŽ –Š‡‡•–͵ͲͲ›‡ƒ”•Žƒ–‡”ǡϐ‹”•–—•‹‰
™Š‡”‡„‡‡”™ƒ•–Š‡‘‹’”‡•‡– ƒ†•‘…‹ƒŽ‘……ƒ•‹‘•Ǥ ‰Žƒ••Ǧ„Ž‘™•–‹ŽŽ•ǡŽƒ–‡”‡–ƒŽŽ‹…ƒŽŽ‘›•
ƒŽ…‘Š‘Ž‹…„‡˜‡”ƒ‰‡ƒ†ƒ•‡‹ƒŽ ”‘—†ͶǡͲͲͲ›‡ƒ”•ƒ‰‘ǡ–Š‡ϐ‹”•– ƒ†…‡”ƒ‹…•Ǥ›–Š‡ͳͺ–Š…‡–—”›ǡ
’”‘†—…–‘ˆ–Š‡‡‘Ž‹–Š‹…ƒ‰”‹…—Ž–—”ƒŽ …‘Ž—ƒ”†‹•–‹ŽŽ‹‰ƒ’’ƒ”ƒ–—•‡• —”‘’‡ƒ•–‹ŽŽ•ƒ†…‘†‡•‹‰
”‡˜‘Ž—–‹‘ǤŠ‡„”‡™‹‰‘ˆ„‡‡” ƒ’’‡ƒ”‡†‹‹‘ƒ”‡–‡ǣ–Š‡Šƒ‹•–‘• ™‘”•™‡”‡‘•–Ž›…‘’’‡”ǡ–Š‡‘•–
•–ƒ”–‡†‘”‡–Šƒͳ͵ǡͲͲͲ›‡ƒ”•ƒ‰‘‹ •–‹ŽŽǤ–‡’Ž‘›‡†•–”ƒ‹‡”•‘”•‹‡˜‡• ‡ˆˆ‡…–‹˜‡ǡ•ƒˆ‡ƒ†’ƒŽƒ–ƒ„Ž‡‡–ƒŽˆ‘”
–Š‡‹††Ž‡ƒ•–ǤŠ‡ϐ‹”•–†‹•–‹ŽŽƒ–‹‘ „‡–™‡‡–Š”‡‡˜‡”–‹…ƒŽ…‘’ƒ”–‡–• ƒ—ˆƒ…–—”‹‰•’‹”‹–•Ǥ
‘ˆ„‡‡”ǡ•’‹”‹–—•ˆ”—‡–‹ǡŽ‹‡Ž› ™Š‡”‡•–‡ƒ˜ƒ’‘—”••–”‹’’‡† —”‘’‡ǯ•†‹•–‹ŽŽƒ–‹‘Š‹•–‘”›•–ƒ”–‡†
„‡‰ƒ͸ǡͲͲͲ›‡ƒ”•ƒ‰‘™Š‡–Š‡ϐ‹”•– ƒˆ‡”‡–‡†•‘Ž—–‹‘’”‘†—…‹‰ ‹–ƒŽ›ƒ”‘—†ͳͳͷͲƒ††‹ˆˆ—•‡†
‡ƒ”–Š‡™ƒ”‡•–‹ŽŽ•ƒ’’‡ƒ”‡††—”‹‰–Š‡ ’‡”ˆ—‡•ƒ†•’‹”‹–†‹•–‹ŽŽƒ–‡•Ȃ–Š‡ –Š”‘—‰Š–Š‡‘Ž›‘ƒ’‹”‡„›
Žƒ–‡„ƒ‹†ƒ†”—’‡”‹‘†Ǥ‡˜‡”ƒŽ •ƒ‡’”‹…‹’Ž‡—•‡†‹‘†‡”…‘Ž— ™ƒ›‘ˆ‘ƒ•–‹…‘”†‡”•ǡ–”ƒ†‡‰—‹Ž†•
‹ŽŽ‡‹ƒ„‡ˆ‘”‡—”‘’‡ƒ••–ƒ”–‡† ƒ†•’‡…‹ƒŽ‹•–ƒ’‘–Š‡…ƒ”‹‡•ǤŠ‡
†‹•–‹ŽŽ‹‰„‡‡”ƒ†–Š‡
ƒ‡Ž‹…™‘”† 7KH¿UVWGLVWLOODWLRQRI †‹•–‹ŽŽƒ–‹‘‘ˆ„‡‡”„‡‰ƒ‹–Š‡
‡”ƒ
ˆ‘”™ƒ–‡”ǡǮ—‹•‰‡ǯǡ‡–‡”‡†–Š‡”‹•Š ’”‹…‹’ƒŽ‹–‹‡•ǡ•’”‡ƒ†‹‰–‘–Š‡”‹–‹•Š
ƒ†…‘––‹•Š˜‘…ƒ„—Žƒ”‹‡•Ȃϐ‹ƒŽŽ› EHHUVSLULWXVIUXPHQWL •Ž‡•„›–Š‡‹†ǦͳͶ–Š…‡–—”›Ǥ‰Ž‹•Š
‰Ž‹…‹•‡†‹–‘Ǯ™Š‹•›ǯ„›–Š‡‡ƒ”Ž› OLNHO\EHJDQ …‘Ž‘‹•–•ϐ‹”•–†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡†–—”’‡–‹‡‹
ͳͺ–Š…‡–—”›Ȃƒ–‡†‹Ž—˜‹ƒ™Š‹•› ‘”–Š‡”‹…ƒǡƒ–‹”‰‹‹ƒǯ• ƒ‡•–‘™
ƒ’’‡ƒ”‡†‹–Š‡‹††Ž‡ƒ•–Ǥ
\HDUVDJR •‡––Ž‡‡–‹ͳ͸Ͳͺǡƒ†™‹–Š‹ƒˆ‡™
ƒ–‹‰ˆ”‘͵ǡͷͲͲǡ ›‡ƒ”•ǡ†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡†‰”ƒ‹ƒ•Š‡•—•‡†
ƒ”…Šƒ‡‘Ž‘‰‹…ƒŽ†‹•…‘˜‡”‹‡•ƒ–‡’‡ •–‹ŽŽ•Ǥ”…Šƒ‡‘Ž‘‰‹•–•Š›’‘–Š‡•‹•‡–Šƒ– ”‡–‘”–•ˆ”‘ƒ‰Žƒ••ˆ‘—†”›„—‹Ž–ƒ––Š‡

ƒ™”ƒ‹”ƒ“ˆ‘—†…Žƒ›’‘–•–‹ŽŽ• ‹‘ƒ•ƒŽ•‘†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡†™‹‡ƒ†‰”ƒ’‡ …‘Ž‘›‹ͳ͸Ͳ͹Ǥ
‹…‘”’‘”ƒ–‹‰”‹•–‘…Šƒ‡Ž–Š‡ ”‡•‹†——ǡƒ˜‡”•‹‘‘ˆ…‘–‡’‘”ƒ”› ‡ƒǡŠ‹ƒ™ƒ•–Š‡Ž‘…ƒŽ‡‘ˆ•‹ƒǯ•
…‘†‡•‡††‹•–‹ŽŽƒ–‡ǡ‘—–‡†„›ƒ ”‡–ƒ”ƒ‹‘”–•‹‘—†‹ƒǤ–”—…–—”ƒŽ ϐ‹”•–ˆ‡”‡–‡†ƒŽ…‘Š‘Ž‹…„‡˜‡”ƒ‰‡•
‘•‡Š—–Ǧ•–›Ž‡Š‡ƒ†–‘…‘†‡•‡–Š‡ ˜‡”•‹‘•‘ˆ–Š‡›”‘••–‹ŽŽ•’”‡ƒ† ͻǡͲͲͲ›‡ƒ”•ƒ‰‘ǤŠ‡ƒ…‹‡–
”‡‡
˜ƒ’‘—”Ǥ‡ˆ‘”‡–Š‡”‘œ‡‰‡ǡ–Š‹• –Š”‘—‰Š–Š‡‡‰‡ƒ”‡‰‹‘ǡ‡’Ž‘›‹‰ †‹•–‹ŽŽ‹‰–‡…Š‘Ž‘‰›’‡”…‘Žƒ–‡†‹–‘
…Žƒ›Ǧϐ‹”‡††‹•–‹ŽŽ‹‰–‡…Š‘Ž‘‰›•’”‡ƒ† –Š‡ˆƒ‹Ž‹ƒ”ƒŽ‡„‹…ƒ†…—…—”„‹– Š‹ƒǡ–Š‡›‘†‹ϐ‹‡†…‡”ƒ‹…–”‹’‘†
–‘‹Ž‘–‹…‰›’–ǡƒ†–Š‡‡ƒ•–‡” ƒ••‡„Ž›Ǥ›ͶͷͲ–Š‹•ˆ‘”ƒ– •–‡ƒ…‘‘‹‰’‘–•–‘’”‘†—…‡ƒ”†‡–
‡†‹–‡””ƒ‡ƒǤ•Š‘—•‡Š‘Ž†•ƒ…”‘•• ƒ’’‡ƒ”‡†‹–Š‡†—•ƒŽŽ‡›Ǥ •’‹”‹–•ǤŠ‡ǡʹǡͲͲͲ›‡ƒ”•Žƒ–‡”ǡŠ‹‡•‡
‡•‘’‘–ƒ‹ƒƒ†‰›’–„”‡™‡†„‡‡” ”‘—†ʹǡͲͲͲ‹ƒ–‘Ž‹ƒǡ–Š‡ ‡–ƒŽŽ—”‰‹•–•…ƒ•–„”‘œ‡ƒ†…‘’’‡”
†ƒ‹Ž›ˆ‘”…‘•—’–‹‘ǡ•‘–Š‡—•‡‘ˆ ‹––‹–‡•‡‰‹‡‡”‡†ƒ‹˜‡”–‡†•’‘—–‡† †‹•–‹ŽŽ‹‰ƒ’’Ž‹ƒ…‡•‘†‡ŽŽ‡†‘–Š‡‹”
’”‹‹–‹˜‡•–‹ŽŽ•ƒŽ•‘„‡…ƒ‡™‹†‡•’”‡ƒ† „‘™Ž•–‹ŽŽǤ‘–Š‡”•–‹ŽŽ…‘ϐ‹‰—”ƒ–‹‘ ‡ƒ”Ž‹‡”ϐ‹”‡†…Žƒ›•–‹ŽŽ•ˆ‘”†‹•–‹ŽŽ‹‰
‹–Š‡ƒ—ˆƒ…–—”‡‘ˆ’‡”ˆ—‡•ǡ ™‹–Šƒ”‡‘˜ƒ„Ž‡…‘‹…ƒŽŠ‡ƒ†™ƒ• ™‹‡ǡ”‹…‡ǡƒ†„ƒ”Ž‡›ƒ•ŠǤ Žƒ˜‘—”‡†
’Šƒ”ƒ…‘Ž‘‰‹…ƒŽ–”‡ƒ–‡–•ǡƒ† •‹‹Žƒ”‹…‘•–”—…–‹‘–‘–Š‡›”‘• ™‹–Š„‘–ƒ‹…ƒŽ•ǡ–Š‡•‡…‘’‘—†‡†
’‘–ƒ„Ž‡†”‹•ˆ”‘„‡‡”ƒ†™‹‡Ǥ stills employed in Aegean islands, •’‹”‹–•™‡”‡ƒƒŽ‘‰‘—•–‘–Š‡’”‘–‘Ǧ
Š‹Ž‡—…Š‘ˆ–Š‡†‹•–‹ŽŽƒ–‡™ƒ• ƒ†–Š‡•ƒ‡–‡’Žƒ–‡™ƒ•”‡…›…Ž‡† ™Š‹•‹‡•ƒ†‡„›”‹•Šƒ†…‘––‹•Š
Ž‹‡Ž›—’ƒŽƒ–ƒ„Ž‡ǡ‹–•…‘•—’–‹‘†‹† „›‘•‹‘•™Š‡Š‡ˆƒ„”‹…ƒ–‡† †‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”•—–‹Ž–Š‡Žƒ–‡ͳͺ–Š…‡–—”›Ǥ
‘–”‡’”‡•‡–ƒŠ‡ƒŽ–Š”‹•ǡƒ•‹–™ƒ• Ž‡šƒ†”‹ƒ•–‹ŽŽ•ƒ”‘—†͵ͲͲǤ Š‡ƒ†˜‡–‘ˆ‘†‡”™Š‹•›ƒ””‹˜‡†
†‹Ž—–‡†™Š‡•‡”˜‡†ƒ•ƒ†”‹ǤŠ‡ ’”‘˜‡†˜‡”•‹‘•‘ˆ–Š‹•†‡•‹‰Ž‡† ™Š‡‘”‡™Š‘Ž‡•‘‡‰”ƒ‹†‹•–‹ŽŽƒ–‡
…‘’‘—†‡†™‹–Šƒ††‹–‹˜‡•ǡ‡˜‡ –‘–Š‡•Žƒ‹…ƒ†‡”•‹ƒƒŽ‡„‹… ™ƒ••–‘”‡†‹‘ƒ…‘–ƒ‹‡”•Ǥ

12 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

SPECIAL PROMOTION Bowmore

A Moment
in Time
$RQHR̆$UFKLYH&DELQHWFRQWDLQLQJ¿YH
ERWWOHVRIWKHUDUH%ODFN%RZPRUHLVWREH
DXFWLRQHGLQFROODERUDWLRQZLWK6RWKHE\¶V

M
ore than 27 years ™ƒ”‡Š‘—•‡Ǥ
‡‡”ƒ–‹‘•‘ˆ•‹ŽŽ‡†
ƒˆ–‡”–Š‡ϐ‹”•–„‘––Ž‡ †‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”›™‘”‡”•ƒ†ƒ•–‡”†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”•
™ƒ•”‡Ž‡ƒ•‡†ǡŽƒ… Šƒ˜‡‘˜‡”•‡‡–Š‡•‡…ƒ••ƒ•–Š‡›ƒ‰‡†
‘™‘”‡Šƒ• –‘„‡…‘‡–Š‡Ž‹“—‹†–Šƒ–‹••‘•‘—‰Š–
—†‡‹ƒ„Ž›‰ƒ‹‡†ƒ ƒˆ–‡”–‘†ƒ›ǡƒ†–Š‡ϐ‹”•–‹–‡”ƒ–‹‘‘ˆ
”‡’—–ƒ–‹‘ˆ‘”‡š…‡ŽŽ‡…‡™‹–Š‹™Š‹•› Žƒ…‘™‘”‡™ƒ•ϐ‹ƒŽŽ›”‡Ž‡ƒ•‡†‹
…‹”…Ž‡•ƒ†„‡›‘†ǤŠ‡•‡’”‹œ‡† ͳͻͻ͵ƒ•ƒʹͻǦ›‡ƒ”Ǧ‘Ž†™Š‹•›ǤŠ‡͵ͲǦ
„‘––Ž‹‰•„‡…ƒ‡ˆƒ‘—•ˆ‘”–Š‡‹””‹…Šǡ ƒ†͵ͳǦ›‡ƒ”Ǧ‘Ž†‡š’”‡••‹‘•ˆ‘ŽŽ‘™‡†
–”‘’‹…ƒŽƒ†Š‡ƒ˜‹Ž›•Š‡””‹‡†•’‹”‹– ‘˜‡”–Š‡‡š––™‘›‡ƒ”•ǡ„‡ˆ‘”‡–Š‡ͶʹǦ
•–›Ž‡ǡ™Š‹…Š’‡”ˆ‡…–Ž›‡š‡’Ž‹ϐ‹‡•–Š‡ ƒ†ͷͲǦ›‡ƒ”Ǧ‘Ž†‡š’”‡••‹‘•…‘’Ž‡–‡†
‹†‡ƒŽ„ƒŽƒ…‡„‡–™‡‡ƒ‰‡ǡ…ƒ•–›’‡ –Š‡…‘ŽŽ‡…–‹‘Ǥ
ƒ†–Š‹••Žƒ›†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”›ǯ•ˆ”—‹–›ƒ† ‘™‡˜‡”ǡ„‡›‘†•‹’Ž›„”‹‰‹‰
‘†‡”ƒ–‡Ž›•‘›Š‘—•‡•–›Ž‡Ǥ –Š‡•‡”ƒ”‡„‘––Ž‡•–‘‰‡–Š‡”ǡ–Š‡Žƒ…
•–‹‡Šƒ•’ƒ••‡†ǡ–Š‡„‘––Ž‡•Šƒ˜‡ ‘™‘”‡”…Š‹˜‡ƒ„‹‡–‹•—†‡‹ƒ„Ž›
„‡‡‡Œ‘›‡†ƒ†–Š‡—„‡”Ž‡ˆ–‹ ‘”‡–ŠƒŒ—•––Š‡•—‘ˆ‹–•’ƒ”–•Ǥ
‡š‹•–‡…‡Šƒ•†™‹†Ž‡†Ǥ•ƒ”‡•—Ž–ǡ ‘”•–ƒ”–‡”•ǡ‹–•‡š–‡”‹‘”•Š‘™…ƒ•‡•
„‘––Ž‡•ˆ”‘–Š‡Žƒ…‘™‘”‡•‡”‹‡• –Š‡•ƒ‡•‹ŽŽǡƒ”–‹•–”›ǡƒ†Š‡”‹–ƒ‰‡ƒ• These pages, left ‘‡–‹‰‘–Š‡…‘ŽŽ‡…–‹‘ǡ
Šƒ˜‡…‘‡–‘„‡”‡˜‡”‡†‘–‘Ž›ˆ‘”–Š‡ –Š‡•’‹”‹–™‹–Š‹ǣ–Š‡…ƒ„‹‡–Š‘—•‹‰ to right: ‘™‘”‡ǯ•†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”›ƒƒ‰‡”ǡƒ˜‹†
‡š…‡’–‹‘ƒŽϐŽƒ˜‘—”•…ƒ’–—”‡†‹‡ƒ…Š –Š‡™Š‹•‹‡•‹•†‹”‡…–Ž›‹•’‹”‡†„› The Black Bowmore —”‡”ǡ•ƒ‹†ǡDzŽƒ…‘™‘”‡–”—Ž›‹•
”‡Ž‡ƒ•‡ǡ„—–ƒ•”ƒ”‡’‹‡…‡•‘ˆ™Š‹•› ‘™‘”‡ǯ•Š‘‡ǡ–Š‡‡„”‹†‡ƒ‹•Žƒ† Archive Cabinet. –Š‡Œ‡™‡Ž‹‘—”…”‘™ƒ†‹––ƒ‡•‹–•
Š‹•–‘”›ƒ†˜ƒŽ—ƒ„Ž‡…‘ŽŽ‡…–‘”ǯ•‹–‡•Ǥ ‘ˆ•Žƒ›ǡƒ†ƒ™ƒ”†Ǧ™‹‹‰ƒ•–‡” ”‹‰Š–ˆ—Ž’Žƒ…‡‹–Š‡†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”›ǯ•Š‹•–‘”›
‘™ǡ‹’ƒ”–‡”•Š‹’™‹–Š‘–Š‡„›ǯ•ǡ …”ƒˆ–•ƒ ‘Š
ƒŽ˜‹Šƒ•‹…‘”’‘”ƒ–‡† ˆ‘”ϐ‹”Ž›’—––‹‰‘™‘”‡‘–Š‡ƒ’
‘™‘”‡‹•‘ˆˆ‡”‹‰–Š‡‘’’‘”–—‹–›–‘ –Š‡†‹•–‹…––‡š–—”‡•‘ˆ•Žƒ›ǡƒŽ‘‰•‹†‡ ƒ•ƒ‹…‘‹…ǡ…‘ŽŽ‡…–ƒ„Ž‡™Š‹•›ǤŠ‹•
ƒ…“—‹”‡–Š‡…‘’Ž‡–‡Žƒ…‘™‘”‡ ‰‡—‹‡ƒ–‡”‹ƒŽ•ˆ”‘–Š‡†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”› ˆ—ŽŽ…‘ŽŽ‡…–‹‘‘ˆϐ‹˜‡Žƒ…‘™‘”‡
…‘ŽŽ‡…–‹‘ǡŠ‘—•‡†‹ƒ…—•–‘Ǧƒ†‡ ™Š‹…ŠŠƒ˜‡„‡‡”‡’—”’‘•‡†Ǥ „‘––Ž‹‰•‹••’‡…–ƒ…—Žƒ”ǡƒ†‡‡˜‡
”…Š‹˜‡ƒ„‹‡–ǡƒ–ƒ—…–‹‘‹‘‰ Š‡•‡•–—‹‰ǡ–ƒ…–‹Ž‡‡Ž‡‡–• ‘”‡•’‡…‹ƒŽ„›–Š‡…ƒ„‹‡–™‹–Š‹
‘‰–Š‹•’”‹‰Ǥ ‹…Ž—†‡™ƒ•Š„ƒ…™‘‘†ǡ…‘’’‡”ˆ”‘ ™Š‹…Š‹–‹•„‡ƒ—–‹ˆ—ŽŽ›Š‘—•‡†Ǥdz
Š‡Ž‘–…‘’”‹•‡•ϐ‹˜‡ƒ”…Š‹˜‡„‘––Ž‡• –Š‡•–‹ŽŽ•ǡƒ†Šƒ†Ž‡•ˆ”‘–Š‡•’‹”‹– Š‡…ƒ„‹‡–ƒŽ•‘ˆ‡ƒ–—”‡•ƒ†ƒ”
‘ˆŽƒ…‘™‘”‡ǡ™Š‹…Š„‡–™‡‡–Š‡ •ƒˆ‡Ǥ‘‰‡–Š‡”–Š‡•‡–‘—…Š‡•‹†‹…ƒ–‡ …ƒ”˜‡†‡š–‡”‹‘”™Š‹…Š”‡ϐŽ‡…–•–Š‡„Žƒ…
•’ƒ–Š”‡‡†‡…ƒ†‡•‘ˆ™Š‹•›ƒ‹‰ ‘–‘Ž›–Šƒ––Š‹•‹•ƒƒ—–Š‡–‹…•Žƒ› •–‘‡™ƒŽŽ•‘ˆ–Š‡‘™‘”‡˜ƒ—Ž–•ǡ
ˆ”‘ͳͻͻ͵–‘ʹͲͳ͸ǤŽƒ…‘™‘”‡™ƒ• ™Š‹•›ǡ„—––Šƒ–‹–‹•ƒŽ•‘‘‡™Š‹…Š ƒ†‹…Ž—†‡•Ž—š—”‹‘—•’ƒ–‹ƒǦ‡ˆˆ‡…–
†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡†‹ͳͻ͸Ͷǡ„‡ˆ‘”‡„‡‹‰ϐ‹ŽŽ‡†‹–‘ …ƒ„‡ƒ–‡”‹ƒŽŽ›–”ƒ…‡†„ƒ…–‘•Žƒ›ǯ• ‹””‘”•ǡ”‡‹‹•…‡–‘ˆ–Š‡‰Ž‡ƒ‹‰
•™‡‡–Ž‘”‘•‘•Š‡””›…ƒ••ƒ†•ƒˆ‡Ž› ‘Ž†‡•–†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”›Ǣ–Š‡”…Š‹˜‡ƒ„‹‡–‹• …‘’’‡”‡Ž‡‡–•‹–Š‡†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”›Ǥ
•–‘™‡†ƒ™ƒ›‹–Š‡‘Ǥͳ‘™‘”‡ —†‘—„–‡†Ž›ƒ™Š‹•›…‘ŽŽ‡…–‹‘™‹–Š •‹†‡–Š‡…ƒ„‹‡–ǡ–Š‡ϐ‹˜‡„‘––Ž‡•
˜ƒ—Ž–•ƒ–…‘–Žƒ†ǯ•‘Ž†‡•–ƒ–—”ƒ–‹‘ ’”‘˜‡ƒ…‡ǡ„‘–Š‹•‹†‡ƒ†‘—–Ǥ Šƒ˜‡„‡‡’Žƒ…‡†‘Šƒ†Ǧ„Ž‘™‰Žƒ••

14 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

 SPECIAL PROMOTION Bowmore

’‹ŽŽƒ”•™Š‹…Šǡ‹ƒˆ—”–Š‡”‘†–‘–Š‡ ‘Ž›ϐ‹––‹‰ˆ‘”…‘–…Š–Šƒ–…‘‡•ˆ”‘ ‹–Š‹•—‹“—‡•‡–‘ˆ™Š‹•‹‡•ǤŠƒ–ǯ•

…”ƒˆ–•ƒ•Š‹’–Šƒ–Šƒ•‰‘‡‹–‘–Š‡ •Žƒ›ǯ•‘Ž†‡•–™Š‹•›†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”›ǡƒ† ‘”‡ǡ–Š‡™‹‹‰„‹††‡”™‹ŽŽ„‡
…‘ŽŽ‡…–‹‘ǡ˜ƒ”›‹Š‡‹‰Š–ƒ……‘”†‹‰–‘ –Š‹•‹•ƒŽ•‘ƒ…‘…‡’––Šƒ–‹•…Ž‡˜‡”Ž› ‹˜‹–‡†–‘‘™‘”‡ˆ‘”ƒ–ƒ•–‹‰‘ˆ
–Š‡ƒ‰‡‘ˆ‡ƒ…Š‘ˆ–Š‡™Š‹•‹‡•Ǥ ”‡ϐŽ‡…–‡†‹–Š‡…ƒ„‹‡–ǣ–Š‡ˆ”‘–‘ˆ –Š‡†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”›ǯ•‘Ž†‡•–ƒ†”ƒ”‡•–•‹‰Ž‡
Šƒ–ǯ•‘”‡ǡ–Š‡ˆ‘”‡”‘™‘”‡ –Š‡‰Žƒ••’‹ŽŽƒ”•ƒ”‡Š‹‰ŠŽ›’‘Ž‹•Š‡†–‘ ƒŽ–•Ǥ”‘…‡‡†•ˆ”‘–Š‡•ƒŽ‡™‹ŽŽ„‡
•’‹”‹–•ƒˆ‡ǡϐ‹”•–—•‡†‹ͳͻʹͶǡŠƒ•„‡‡ …”‡ƒ–‡ƒ˜‡”–‹…ƒŽ™‹†‘™–‘–Š‡‹•‹†‡ †‘ƒ–‡†–‘…Šƒ”‹–›ǡ•—’’‘”–‹‰–Š‡•Žƒ›
”‡’—”’‘•‡†‘–Š‡„ƒ•‡‘ˆ–Š‡…ƒ„‹‡– ‘ˆ‡ƒ…Šǡ”‡˜‡ƒŽ‹‰„—„„Ž‡•”—‹‰ ‡˜‡Ž‘’‡–‹–‹ƒ–‹˜‡‘ƒ’”‘Œ‡…––‘
™Š‹Ž•––Š‡„”ƒ••Ž‡˜‡”•–ƒ‡’”‹†‡‘ˆ ˜‡”–‹…ƒŽŽ›ǤŠ‡„—„„Ž‡•ƒ––Š‡„‘––‘ „‡‡ϐ‹–›‘—‰’‡‘’Ž‡‹–Š‡”‡‰‹‘Ǥ
’Žƒ…‡‘–Š‡ˆ”‘–ǤŠ‡•‡Ž‡˜‡”•ƒ”‡ ƒ”‡…”›•–ƒŽ…Ž‡ƒ”ǡ–‘”‡’”‡•‡––Š‡‡™Ž› Š‡…‘ŽŽ‡…–‹‘ǯ•‡•–‹ƒ–‡†˜ƒŽ—‡
ƒ”‡†™‹–Š–Š‡—‹“—‡ϐ‹‰‡”’”‹–•‘ˆ ƒ†‡•’‹”‹–ǡƒ†ǡ‹”‘””‹‰–Š‡’”‘…‡•• Ž‹‡•‹–Š‡”‡‰‹‘‘ˆ̈́ͶǡͲͲͲǡͲͲͲ
‡˜‡”›‹†‹˜‹†—ƒŽ™Š‘’Žƒ›‡†–Š‡‹”’ƒ”– ‘ˆƒ–—”ƒ–‹‘ǡ•Ž‘™Ž›…Šƒ‰‡…‘Ž‘—” ȋ̈́ͷͲͲǡͲͲͲǡ‘”͉ͶͲͲǡͲͲͲȌǡƒ†–Š‡
‹–Š‡…”‡ƒ–‹‘‘ˆ–Š‡•’‹”‹–‘˜‡”–Š‡ ˆ”‘›‡ŽŽ‘™–‘†ƒ””‡†ǡ„”‘™ƒ† ƒ—…–‹‘‹–•‡Žˆ™‹ŽŽ–ƒ‡’Žƒ…‡‘˜‡”–Š‡
…‘—”•‡‘ˆ‹–•Ž‹ˆ‡ƒ–‘™‘”‡ǤŠ‡—•‡‘ˆ ϐ‹ƒŽŽ›„Žƒ…Ǥ ™‡‡‡†‘ˆͳ͹Ǧͳͺ’”‹Ž–Š‹•›‡ƒ”Ǥ ”‘
™ƒ•Š„ƒ…™‘‘†ˆ‘”–Š‡†”ƒ™‡”••Š‘™• Š‡”…Š‹˜‡ƒ„‹‡–‹•…‡”–ƒ‹Ž› –Š‡‡š“—‹•‹–‡…ƒ„‹‡–‡š–‡”‹‘”ǡ–‘–Š‡
–Š‡‹”‘„ƒ†ƒ”‹‰•–‹ŽŽ‹–ƒ…–ǡ ƒ”‡ƒ”ƒ„Ž‡…‘ŽŽ‡…–‹‘ǡ„—––Š‡ ’”‡…‹‘—•™Š‹•›™‹–Š‹ǡ–Š‹•…‘ŽŽ‡…–‹‘
…‘—’Ž‡†™‹–Š–Š‡…ƒ’–‹˜ƒ–‹‰ƒ”‘ƒ ‡š’‡”‹‡…‡†‘‡•ǯ–‡†–Š‡”‡Ǥ–ƒŽ•‘ ‘–‘Ž›…ƒ’–—”‡•–Š‡‡–‹”‡–›‘ˆŽƒ…
‡„‡††‡†‹–Š‹•ƒ–‡”‹ƒŽˆ‘”‡–‡”‹–›Ǥ ‹…Ž—†‡•ƒ‘‡Ǧ‘ˆˆ„‘‘†‡–ƒ‹Ž‹‰–Š‡ ‘™‘”‡ˆ”‘ƒ…”‘••–Š‡†‡…ƒ†‡•ǡ„—–
Š‡…‘ŽŽ‡…–‹‘•–”‹˜‡•–‘…ƒ’–—”‡–Š‡ Œ‘—”‡›‘ˆŽƒ…‘™‘”‡‘˜‡”–Š‡ …‡Ž‡„”ƒ–‡•–Š‡‘‡–•‹–‹‡‡ƒ…Š
’ƒ••ƒ‰‡‘ˆ–‹‡ǡ•‘‡–Š‹‰–Šƒ–•‡‡• …‘—”•‡‘ˆ‹–•”‡Ž‡ƒ•‡•ƒ†…—Ž‹ƒ–‹‰ „‘––Ž‡”‡’”‡•‡–•Ǥ

Issue 174 | Whisky Magazine 15

Whisky Science Peat

WORDS FELIPE SCHRIEBERG

THE PEAT
PROVENANCE
MYSTERY %D̈HGE\WDONRIFRDVWDOYHUVXVPDLQODQGSHDW"
+RZDERXW330¿JXUHV",W¶VWLPHWRUROO
XSRXUVOHHYHVDQGJRGLJJLQJ«

16 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

 Whisky Science Peat

L
ong ago and far away, when distillery tours
and live whisky tastings were common, a
question could often be heard at events where
peated whisky was served: “What’s the PPM
of this one?” Curious whisky fans asking this
“—‡•–‹‘™‡”‡•‡ƒ”…Š‹‰ˆ‘”–Š‡ϐ‹š‡†—„‡”‘ˆ’Š‡‘Ž‹…
‘parts per million’ (PPM) that’s often quoted by brand
”‡’•ƒ†‹†—•–”›ϐ‹‰—”‡•™Š‹…Šǡ‹–Š‡‘”›ǡ†‡–‡”‹‡•
on a sliding scale the level of peat in a whisky. These fans
have made the assumption – encouraged by the whisky
industry – that the higher the PPM number, the more
Ǯ’‡ƒ–›ǯƒ”‘ƒ•ƒ†ϐŽƒ˜‘—”•™‹ŽŽ„‡ˆ‘—†‹–Š‡•’‹”‹–Ǥ
By this logic, more peat equals more phenols which
–Š‡”‡ˆ‘”‡‡“—ƒŽ•‘”‡•‘›ƒ”‘ƒ•ƒ†ϐŽƒ˜‘—”•‹
–Š‡‰Žƒ••ǤŠ‡Ž‹‰Š–’‡ƒ–‘ˆ‡”‘ƒ…Šǡˆ‘”‡šƒ’Ž‡ǡ
’ƒŽ‡•‡š––‘–Š‡ͶͲ‘ˆƒƒ’Š”‘ƒ‹‰ǡ™Š‹Ž‡ƒ’Š”‘ƒ‹‰
…‘™‡”•‹–Š‡ˆƒ…‡‘ˆͺͲǦ͵Ͳͻ™Š‹•‹‡•”‡Ž‡ƒ•‡†„›
Bruichladdich under its Octomore brand. However, as
with so many aspects of whisky, the role of peat in the
…”‡ƒ–‹‘‘ˆƒ”‘ƒ•ƒ†ϐŽƒ˜‘—”•™‡ϐ‹†‹‘—”‰Žƒ••‡•Šƒ•
many facets, some which are still unknown. The fact that
Octomore certainly is not twice (or more) as smoky as
ƒ’Š”‘ƒ‹‰–‘‘•‡ƒ†–ƒ•–‡‹†‹…ƒ–‡•–Šƒ–
there are many different factors at
play which combine to deliver
the organoleptic qualities of
peated whisky.

Issue 174 | Whisky Magazine 17

 Peat (‘turf’ to the Irish) are mosses, hydrogen atoms). The simplest phenolic These pages, massively for each of them.”
grasses and plants decomposing compound also happens to be called from above: Harrison says even the most sensitive
™‹–Š‘—–‘š›‰‡‘˜‡”–‡•‘ˆ–Š‘—•ƒ†• phenol, or C6H5OH. Keith Cruikshank, noses and palates would struggle to
Benromach’s
‘ˆ›‡ƒ”•ǤŠ‡‡š–”ƒ…–‡†ǡ‹–”‡•‡„Ž‡• “You can divide the phenols found identify individual phenolic compounds,
distillery manager;
a cross between mud and clay. Once the in whisky into roughly two groups, Inside the fiery heart and that it’s basically impossible to
primary fuel source for Celtic tribes, phenols and guaiacols” says Dr Barry of peated whisky. ‘™™Š‡”‡–Š‡‹ϐŽ—‡…‡‘ˆ‘‡„‡‰‹•
today it is sometimes dried, broken into Harrison, a senior scientist at the Scotch or ends: “We don’t quite yet know to
„”‹…•ƒ†„—”‡†‹–Š‡ϐ‹”‡’Žƒ…‡•‘ˆ Whisky Research Institute. “The former ™Šƒ–‡š–‡–‘Ǧ’Š‡‘Ž‹……‘’‘—†•
the Scottish Highlands and islands. tend to bring medicinal notes, and the ‹’‡ƒ–’Žƒ›ƒ”‘Ž‡‹ϐŽƒ˜‘—”ǡdzŠ‡•ƒ›•Ǥ
In the world of whisky, it is burned in latter are often smoky and sweet.” “It’s something we’re working on.”
a kiln oven to dry barley after malting. ‘”ƒʹͲͲͻ•–—†›–Šƒ–Š‡…‘Ǧƒ—–Š‘”‡†ǡ As Harrison’s samples contained
The smoke from the peat sticks to the ƒ””‹•‘…‘ŽŽ‡…–‡†’‡ƒ–‡š–”ƒ…–‡†ˆ”‘ varying quantities of phenolic
barley through adsorption. That smoke different regions of Scotland at different compounds, logic dictates that peats
contains the compounds, primarily †‡’–Š•ǡƒ†‹†‡–‹ϐ‹‡†–Š‡…‘’‘—†• from different regions will provide
phenols, that eventually infuse a glass that emerged from the samples. Of †‹ˆˆ‡”‡–ϐŽƒ˜‘—”•Ǥ ‘”‡šƒ’Ž‡ǡ
of whisky with smoky, meaty, and –Š‡ͳͲ͸…‘’‘—†•†‡–‡…–‡†ǡͶ͸™‡”‡ ”‡›Ǧ„ƒ•‡††‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”›‹‰ŠŽƒ†
‡†‹…‹ƒŽƒ”‘ƒ•ƒ†ϐŽƒ˜‘—”•Ǥ phenolics. Various peats contained Park often draws attention to the
Now, the organic chemistry: phenols different quantities of compounds – high concentration of heather used
(or phenolics) are a group of chemical though Harrison notes that some are in its peat. Its reason for doing so is
compounds by which one or more harder to perceive in the glass than the claim that burning of Orkney peat
Š›†”‘š›Ž‰”‘—’•ȋƒ‘š›‰‡ƒ† others, “Though you’ll have different …”‡ƒ–‡•…ƒ”„‘Š›†”ƒ–‡Ǧ„ƒ•‡†’Š‡‘Ž‹…
hydrogen atom stuck together) are amounts of phenolic compounds compounds sourced from the heather’s
bonded to an aromatic hydrocarbon present in the peat, the thresholds at „”‘‡Ǧ†‘™Ž‹‰‹•–Šƒ–Ž‡ƒ†–‘ƒ
group (a jumble of bonded carbon and which you’ll taste them can also vary •™‡‡–‡”ǡ•‘›’”‘ϐ‹Ž‡Ǥ
‡™’‡‘’Ž‡ƒ”‡„‡––‡”“—ƒŽ‹ϐ‹‡†–‘
muse about peated whisky than Ardbeg
†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”›ƒƒ‰‡”ȋƒ†‡šǦƒ‰ƒ˜—Ž‹
Comparing peat from the manager) Colin Gordon, who replaced
the recently retired Mickey Heads, and
mainland to Islay, the smoke from he thought, along with his colleagues,
© SØREN SOLKÆR

that there was something special about

the Islay peat always looks richer... Islay peat: “I’m a romantic! The guys
I know who worked at the Port Ellen

18 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

 Whisky Science Peat

maltings always preferred to burn Islay †‡ϐ‹‹–‡Ž›ƒ––‡”•ǣDzŠ‡™‡™‡”‡ a big difference and determine which
’‡ƒ–Ǥ‘™†‘ǯ–Šƒ˜‡ƒ›•…‹‡–‹ϐ‹… looking at the different regions in the phenolics will come through in the
proof, but you did really notice it. peat, the samples taken from each of the glass. It starts with the actual kilning of
Comparing peat from the mainland regions had to be standardised and we the peat itself. Each maltster has to deal
to Islay, the smoke from the Islay peat were looking at the same depth within with peats that contain varied moisture
always looks richer and darker.” the bog. You can just see that there’s contents, and also must calculate how
However, it looks like Gordon’s big differences between the peats…so that peat should be burned when
romantic impulses are correct after all. we know that depending on where you dealing with barley that will also vary in
Speaking at a virtual tasting covering take your peat from it’s going to have an moisture content. However, what really
the role of peat in whisky during this ‹’ƒ…–‘–Š‡ϐŽƒ˜‘—”Ǥdz matters is that the barley gets smoked
year’s Whisky Show: Old and Rare While the provenance of the peat is ƒ•‡ˆϐ‹…‹‡–Ž›ƒ•’‘••‹„Ž‡—†‡”–Š‡
festival, Harrison’s colleague at the certainly a factor impacting the aromas circumstances. Gordon illustrates how
SWRI Frances Jack was emphatic ƒ†ϐŽƒ˜‘—”•–Šƒ–‡‡”‰‡ǡ–Š‡‡–Š‘†• certain moisture conditions can lead
that the region where peat is sourced used for whisky production also make to more peaty malt while emphasising
–Šƒ–ϐŽƒ˜‘—”…‘•‹†‡”ƒ–‹‘•†‘ǯ–›‡–
…‘‡‹–‘’Žƒ›ǣDz‘‘‹‰ƒ––Š‡‰”ƒ‹•
that are going into the kiln, wetter
grain generally leads to a higher phenol
content. As you burn the peat, it sticks
to the husk better. However, the length
of time you burn the peat for and how
you deal with its moisture content
during kilning, doesn’t really matter for
ϐŽƒ˜‘—”Ǥ–ǯ•ƒ„‘—–‡ˆˆ‡…–‹˜‡’”‘†—…–‹‘Ǥdz
After this process, the measurement
for phenols is taken from the malt (High
‡”ˆ‘”ƒ…‡‹“—‹†Š”‘ƒ–‘‰”ƒ’Š›ǡ
‘”ǡ‹•…‘•‹†‡”‡†–‘„‡–Š‡‘•–
reliable method for measuring phenols
in whisky), and subsequently unmalted
„ƒ”Ž‡›‹•—•—ƒŽŽ›‹š‡†‹™‹–Š–Š‡
peated malt to achieve the desired PPM
ϐ‹‰—”‡Ǥ ”‘–Š‹•’‘‹–‘ǡ’Š‡‘Ž•
are constantly lost throughout the
™Š‹•›Ǧƒ‹‰’”‘…‡••ǡ•–ƒ”–‹‰™‹–Š
the milling of the barley. The phenols
from the peat are located on the barley
husk after smoking. If there’s a lot of
husk waste (known as skinnings), or
if there’s a lot of movement during
milling, more phenols will be lost.
Husks are also required during
mashing; without them there will be
drainage issues that can lead to the
further loss of phenols, as well as the
loss of other compounds necessary to
create a good batch of spirit.
Phenols are also lost during mashing
and fermentation. Some are left behind
with the draff, while others are lost or
transformed as water, barley and yeast
combine to form new compounds. The
distillation process and the cut points

Issue 174 | Whisky Magazine 19

Whisky Science Peat

decided by each distillery also play a –‘ˆ‡‹–•–‘…”‡ƒ–‡ƒ•‘‹‡”’”‘ϐ‹Ž‡Ǥdz really heavy, oily character. You’re still
•‹‰‹ϐ‹…ƒ–”‘Ž‡Ǥ‡ƒ˜‹‡”…‘’‘—†•ǡ Comparing the distillation processes hammering everything through.”
including phenols, are found primarily ƒ–”†„‡‰ƒ†ƒ‰ƒ˜—Ž‹ƒŽ•‘”‡˜‡ƒŽ• At Ardbeg, on the other hand, Gordon
at the end of the distillation run when why their smoky characters are so illustrates how phenols combine with
–Š‡•’‹”‹–‹•‡š–”ƒ…–‡†ǤŠ‡Ž‘‰‡” different from one another. Both other elements to contribute to its
the hearts are run, the more ‘heavy’ distilleries cut onto their feints at a ˆ”—‹–›…Šƒ”ƒ…–‡”ǣDz‡Šƒ˜‡ƒ’—”‹ϐ‹‡”
phenolics incorporate themselves into similar point, though Ardbeg’s malt is there that means as your spirit is going
–Š‡…Šƒ”ƒ…–‡”‘ˆ–Š‡‡™Ǧƒ‡•’‹”‹– slightly more peated. Ardbeg’s Gordon over the swan neck into the lyne arm,
that goes on to become whisky. †‡•…”‹„‡•Š‹•†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”›ǯ•’”‘ϐ‹Ž‡ƒ•ƒ –Š‡”‡ǯ•Ž‘ƒ†•‘ˆ”‡ϐŽ—šƒ•‹–ƒŽŽ‰ƒ–Š‡”•
According to Benromach’s manager, ‹š–—”‡‘ˆ•‘‘–ƒ†ˆ”—‹–ǡ™Š‹Ž‡Š‡ϐ‹†• „ƒ…ƒ†ˆ‘”–ŠǤŠ‹•ƒ’Ž‹ϐ‹‡•–Š‡ˆ”—‹–›
Keith Cruikshank, this is how the ƒ‰ƒ˜—Ž‹Šƒ•ƒŠ‡ƒ˜›ǡ‘‹Ž›ǡƒ†‡ƒ”–Š› ƒ†‡•–‡”›‘–‡•›‘—ϐ‹†‹–Š‡™Š‹•›Ǥ
Speyside operation brings more character. The distillation processes are There’s also a slightly shorter run of
’‡ƒ–‡†ƒ”‘ƒ•ƒ†ϐŽƒ˜‘—”•–‘‹–• “—‹–‡†‹ˆˆ‡”‡–Ǥ–ƒ‰ƒ˜—Ž‹ǡ”—‹‰ ˆ‘”‡•Š‘–•…‘’ƒ”‡†–‘ƒ‰ƒ˜—Ž‹Ǥdz
heavily peated Contrasts: Peat Smoke a slow distillation combined with Then there is Octomore, literally
release, compared to the usual softly ”‡Ǧ—•‹‰ƒŽ‘–‘ˆˆ‘”‡•Š‘–•ƒ†Š‡ƒ˜‹Ž› the peatiest whisky in the world. Its
peated house style of the distillery. phenolic feints (known as ‘charge’) origin and wide PPM range comes
“The skill of our dedicated distillers from past distillations is important. from the fact that Bruichladdich has
is especially critical when it comes to Therein lies the tension that forms the ƒ•‡†‹–•˜‡”‡••Ǧ„ƒ•‡†ƒŽ–•–‡”•ǡ
cutting the spirit, the moment when …‘”‡‘ˆƒ‰ƒ˜—Ž‹ǡƒ……‘”†‹‰–‘
‘”†‘ǣ ƒ‹”†•ƒŽ–•ǡ‘––‘‹š‹—’‡ƒ–‡†
they consider the new spirit to be of “There’s a high charge in the spirit barley after the peated batch is put
–Š‡Š‹‰Š‡•–“—ƒŽ‹–›ǡdz‡š’Žƒ‹•‡‹–ŠǤ “As stills, above the man door. Because –Š”‘—‰Šƒ‹–‡•‡ǡ•Ž‘™…‘Ž†Ǧ•‘‹‰
the Benromach core style is peated, the it’s high, even though there’s lots of This page: process – making a consistent PPM
only thing we do differently for Peat ”‡ϐŽ—šƒ†›‘—ǯ”‡”—‹‰–Š‘•‡•–‹ŽŽ• Colin Gordon and level impossible to attain. However, the
Smoke is adjust the cut point from spirit slowly and gently, that still leads to that Mickey Heads. ‹–‡•‡’‡ƒ–Ž‡˜‡Ž•–Šƒ–‰‘—’–‘͵Ͳͻ
PPM after malting are primarily tamed
by Bruichladdich’s distillation process.
“We’ve got our tall stills, with these
ƒ””‘™‡…•ǡ•‘›‘—‰‡–ƒŽ‘–‘ˆ”‡ϐŽ—š
and contact with the copper. Also with
the long fermentation we get these
Ž‘˜‡Ž›ˆ”—‹–›ƒ†ϐŽ‘”ƒŽϐŽƒ˜‘—”•ǡdz•ƒ›•
Bruichladdich head distiller Adam
Hannett. “Because of this, most other
distilleries working with our malt
would make a more phenolic whisky,
but with us we’ve got a lighter, more
elegant style, so we’re looking to
achieve a balance that feels right.”
As a result, when considering the
role of phenols in a dram, it actually
is less about the amount that are
squeezed into the malting process
through kilning and more about how
their loss is controlled throughout the
remainder of the process. Because
even the world’s top whisky scientists
have not yet cracked all the mysteries
of peat, whisky fans simply must trust
the judgement and instincts of skilled
producers like Cruikshank, Gordon, and
Hannett, who are doing their best to
create and share the full spectrum of
smells and tastes of peated whisky.

20 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

Whisky Tasting Women & Whiskey Tasting

A Natural Nose
for Whiskey
Research indicates that women generally
have a better sense of smell than men,
but it’s more than just biology that
makes them better whiskey tasters
WORDS MAGGIE KIMBERL
Whisky Tasting Women & Whiskey Tasting

W
hen we think of
science in the
whiskey industry,
often we are
imagining the
quality control lab which ensures all the
grains are free from foreign materials
and the pH of the mash is just right. Few
people realise that there’s a whole area
‘ˆ•…‹‡–‹ϐ‹…”‡•‡ƒ”…Š‡š’Ž‘”‹‰Š‘™™‡
‹–‡”’”‡––Š‡ƒ›ϐŽƒ˜‘—”•‘ˆ™Š‹•‡›
™Š‡™‡–ƒ•–‡‹–ǡƒ†‡˜‡ˆ‡™‡”’‡‘’Ž‡
”‡ƒŽ‹•‡–Šƒ––Š‡”‡ǯ••–”‘‰‡˜‹†‡…‡
indicating womens’ biology makes us
better whiskey tasters.
A study called Sexual Dimorphism
in the Human Olfactory Bulb: Females
Have More Neurons and Glial Cells than
MalesȋŽ‹˜‡‹”ƒǦ‹–‘‡–ƒŽǡPLoS One,
‘˜ʹͲͳͶȌ•‡––‘‡„›—•ƒ‡‹‰Ž‡”ǡ
former lecturer and research associate
‹„‹‘Ž‘‰›ƒ–†‹ƒƒ‹˜‡”•‹–›
‘—–Š‡ƒ•–ǡƒ†ˆ‘—†‹‰‡„‡”‘ˆŠ‡
Bourbon Women Association, states
”‹‰Š–‹–Š‡–‹–Ž‡–Šƒ–™‘‡Šƒ˜‡‘”‡
of the cells that translate olfactory
sensations into information processed
„›‘—”„”ƒ‹•ǤŠ‹•…‘…Ž—•‹‘™ƒ•Žƒ–‡”
„ƒ…‡†—’„›–Š‡’—„Ž‹…ƒ–‹‘‘ˆƒ‡–ƒǦ
ƒƒŽ›•‹•ȋ‘”‘‘™•‹‡–ƒŽǡFrontier
Psychologyǡ ‡„ʹͲͳͻȌ–Šƒ–‡šƒ‹‡†
–Š‡”‡•—Ž–•‘ˆƒ˜ƒ”‹‡–›‘ˆ•–—†‹‡•™‹–Šƒ
–‘–ƒŽ•ƒ’Ž‡•‹œ‡‘ˆ‘”‡–Šƒ͵͹ǡͲͲͲ
’‡‘’Ž‡ǤŠ‡ƒ—–Š‘”••–ƒ–‡†–Šƒ––Š‡
”‡•‡ƒ”…Š•‡‡‡†–‘…‘ϐ‹”™Šƒ––Š‡›
call the ‘common knowledge’ on female
olfactory superiority, though they
ƒŽ•‘‡’Šƒ•‹•‡†–Šƒ––Š‡‡š–‡–‘ˆ–Š‡
differences was ‘notably small’.
Dz–†‘‡•ǯ–‡ƒ–Šƒ–ƒŽŽ™‘‡Šƒ˜‡
better olfactory sense than all men,
since there are ‘supertasters’ of both
•‡š‡•ǡdz•ƒ›•‡‹‰Ž‡”ǤDz—–ǡ‹‰‡‡”ƒŽǡ
™‘‡†‘Šƒ˜‡ƒ„‡––‡”•‡•‡‘ˆ•‡ŽŽ
–Šƒ‡ǤdzŠ‡‡š’Žƒ‹•–Šƒ––Š‡”‡ƒ”‡
‡˜‘Ž—–‹‘ƒ”›”‡ƒ•‘•ˆ‘”–Š‹•–Šƒ–„‘‹Ž
down to mate choice and it seems that,
…‘’Ž‡–‡Ž›—…‘•…‹‘—•Ž›ǡ™‘‡ϐ‹†
‡ƒ––”ƒ…–‹˜‡„ƒ•‡†‘Š‘™–Š‡‡
smell to them. As it turns out, the most
ƒ––”ƒ…–‹˜‡‡–‘™‘‡ƒ”‡–Š‘•‡
whose immune systems are different
ˆ”‘–Š‡‹”‘™Ǥ……‘”†‹‰–‘‡‹‰Ž‡”ǡ

Issue 174 | Whisky Magazine 25

this has come about because the mixing
of immune system genes strengthens
the offspring’s immune systems, giving
them an edge in fending off illness.
“And why are women so choosy?”
asks Reigler. “Simple answer: eggs are
expensive, sperm is cheap. In other
words, a female’s genetic investment is
costly. Mammal females, and especially
primates, including humans, can only
have so many offspring in a lifetime. So,
in order for her genetic investment (i.e.
children) to survive, she wants (again,
unconsciously) the top-quality genes
(including immune system genes) to be
contributed by her mate.”
In short, women are wired to be
better smellers and tasters for the sake

of the continuation of the species, and the authors demonstrate that men
this biological difference means we can and women acclimate at different
detect more subtleties in a variety of rates to sensory inputs, but point out
substances – including whiskey. The that differences are largely restricted
Bourbon Women Association has polled to aspects of olfactory processing
members in a blind tasting and found that require higher-level cognition,
that women prefer higher-proof, more •—…Šƒ•‘†‘—”‹†‡–‹ϐ‹…ƒ–‹‘‘”‘†‘—”
ϐŽƒ˜‘—”ˆ—Ž™Š‹•‡›•‘ƒ˜‡”ƒ‰‡ǡ–Š‘—‰Š memory. They go on to conclude that
‘”‡•…‹‡–‹ϐ‹…•–—†›‘ˆ–Š‹•ƒ”‡ƒŠƒ•›‡– this, coupled with the fact that women
to be done. develop olfactory sensitivity much
However, it’s not just these biological quicker and to a higher degree than
factors that predispose women to men, supports the anecdotal evidence
being better whiskey tasters than men. that women have greater sensitivity
Anecdotally, women also tend to be to ambient odours. This research
better able to articulate their olfactory built upon previous work, including
experiences, to categorise and name †‘”†‡–‹ϔ‹…ƒ–‹‘„›ƒŽ‡•ƒ†
those sensory inputs in a way that is ‡ƒŽ‡•ǣ”‡†‹…–‹‘•˜•Ǥ‡”ˆ‘”ƒ…‡
constructive and precise – a skill that (Cain, Chemical Senses, 1982), which
‹•†‡ϐ‹‹–‡Ž›ƒƒ†˜ƒ–ƒ‰‡‹ƒ›”‘Ž‡ demonstrated that the difference
involving whiskey communication, between men and women’s olfactory
production or sensory analysis. The perceptions can be at least partially
reasons why this might be the case explained by the fact men took longer
are not fully understood and could be than women to generate the correct
impacted by culture as much as biology. labels for their olfactory sensations.
Scholarly work suggests that women In plain English, women are quicker
may have an advantage because they on the recall of correct labels for their
can more precisely name and recall sensory memories and also adjust
’ƒ”–‹…—Žƒ”ϐŽƒ˜‘—”•ƒ†ƒ”‘ƒ•Ǥ quicker to sensory inputs than men,

‡†‡”Ǧ•’‡…‹ϔ‹…†—…–‹‘‘ˆŠƒ…‡† which supports the anecdotal evidence
‡•‹–‹˜‹–›–‘†‘”•(Dalton, Doolittle & that women are more descriptive in
Breslin, ƒ–—”ƒŽ‡—”‘•…‹‡…‡, 2002), naming their sensory inputs. There are

26 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

 Whisky Tasting Women & Whiskey Tasting

also questions as to whether language manager and assisted with tastings and Opening pages: ‘—”„‘‘‡••‘…‹ƒ–‹‘Šƒ•‰‹˜‡
affects perceptions, but it’s likely that barrel selections before Henderson Image courtesy of many women the encouragement and
…—Ž–—”ƒŽ‡š’‡”‹‡…‡•ƒ†ƒ˜ƒ‹Žƒ„‹Ž‹–‹‡• •—‰‰‡•–‡†•Š‡‹‰Š–Šƒ˜‡ƒ’ƒ”–‹…—Žƒ” Chivas Brothers, from ˜‹•‹„‹Ž‹–›–Š‡›‡‡†‡†–‘–ƒ‡–Šƒ–ϐ‹”•–
the launch campaign
‘ˆ†‹ˆˆ‡”‡–ϐŽƒ˜‘—”•™‘—Ž†…‘‡—…Š gift. “With our mutual appreciation for •–‡’Ǥ‹…‡–Š‡ǡ–Š‡‹†—•–”›Šƒ••‡‡
of Ballantine’s 7
‘”‡‹–‘’Žƒ›™Š‡–ƒŽ‹‰•’‡…‹ϐ‹…ƒŽŽ› being culinary ‘foodies’ and spending Bourbon Finish. not only many more women master
ƒ„‘—–™Š‹•‡›ǤŠ—•ǡƒ–Ž‡ƒ•–‹‰‡‡”ƒŽǡ hours in those tastings hearing him Bourbon tasters, but also women
™‡ǯ”‡‘”‡†‡•…”‹’–‹˜‡ƒ„‘—–™Šƒ– †‹••‡…–ϐŽƒ˜‘—”•ƒ†–”›‹‰–‘ƒ„•‘”„ These pages, left ƒ•–‡”„Ž‡†‡”•ǡƒ•–‡”†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”•ǡŠ‹‰ŠǦ
we are smelling and tasting, and it is his knowledge, I was fascinated with to right: Ž‡˜‡Ž‹š‘Ž‘‰‹•–•ǡƒ†‘”‡Ǥ
precisely this talent that has drawn –Š‡ϐŽƒ˜‘—”•‘ˆ‘—”„‘ǡdz•Š‡…‘–‹—‡•Ǥ Ashley Barnes, “When I was young, I spent a lot
co-founder of The
many women to the whiskey industry. “We did barrel samples, worked in the of time with my Mom in the kitchen
Spirits Group; Susan
‡‰‰›‘‡–‡˜‡•ǡˆ‘—†‡”‘ˆŠ‡ Žƒ„ǡ‡–…Ǥǡ„—–„‡Ž‹‡˜‡™Šƒ–•‡–‡ƒ’ƒ”– Reigler and Peggy cooking, canning, and trying to create
Bourbon Women Association, was at the time was my culinary approach to Noe Stevens. ”‡…‹’‡•ˆ‘”–Š‡‡š–Ž‘…ƒŽƒ†•–ƒ–‡ˆƒ‹”
–Š‡ϐ‹”•–™‘ƒ–‘„‡…‘‡ƒƒ•–‡” –ƒ•–‹‰‘—”„‘Ǥdz ͶǦ‡–”›ǡdz•ƒ›••ŠŽ‡›ƒ”‡•ǡ…‘Ǧ
Bourbon taster in the Kentucky ‹…‘Žƒ†‘‡™‘—Ž†Šƒ˜‡Ž‘‰ ˆ‘—†‡”‘ˆŠ‡’‹”‹–•
”‘—’ǤDz‡™
Bourbon industry. Her mentor, †‹•…—••‹‘•ƒ„‘—–ˆ‘‘†ϐŽƒ˜‘—”•ǡ™Š‹…Š early on that something was different,
‹…‘Ž‡†‡”•‘ǡ‹˜‡•–‡†Š‹•–‹‡ ™‡”‡•–‹—Žƒ–‡†„›Š‡”Šƒ˜‹‰ƒ and I did not taste things like the rest
‹Š‡”„‡…ƒ—•‡Š‡„‡Ž‹‡˜‡†‘–‘Ž› „”‘ƒ†…—Ž‹ƒ”›–”ƒ‹‹‰ƒ†‡š–‡•‹˜‡ ‘ˆ›ˆƒ‹Ž›ǤŒ—•–ϐ‹‰—”‡†™ƒ•’‹…›
that women are more detailed and ‡š’‡”‹‡…‡™‘”‹‰™‹–Š…Š‡ˆ•ˆ”‘ –‘„‡Š‘‡•–Ǥdzƒ”‡••–ƒ”–‡†Š‡”…ƒ”‡‡”
†‡•…”‹’–‹˜‡ƒ„‘—––ƒ•–‹‰™Š‹•‡›ǡ„—– ƒŽŽ‘˜‡”†—”‹‰Š‡”–‹‡‹–Š‡Š‘–‡Ž ƒ–—ˆˆƒŽ‘”ƒ…‡ǡ™‡–‘–‘™‘”‹
ƒŽ•‘„‡…ƒ—•‡Š‡ƒ†–‡˜‡••Šƒ”‡†ƒ ‹†—•–”›ǤDz›˜‘…ƒ„—Žƒ”›™ƒ•„”‘ƒ† –Š‡Žƒ„ƒ– ‘—”‘•‡•ǡƒ†Žƒ–‡”•–ƒ”–‡†
common background as foodies. in the fact that I did not just describe her own company with Monica Wolf,
Dz‡…‘‹‰–Š‡™‘”Ž†ǯ•ϐ‹”•–ˆ‡ƒŽ‡ ‘—”„‘ƒ•…ƒ”ƒ‡Žƒ†˜ƒ‹ŽŽƒǡdz•ƒ›• where the pair work with distilleries on
master Bourbon taster in my early days Noe. “Instead, it was crème brulee, blending, quality control, and more.
‘ˆ™‘”‹‰ƒ––Š‡‘‘†ˆ‘”†‡•‡”˜‡ ƒ•…ƒ”’‘‡ǡ†ƒ”„”‘™•—‰ƒ”ǤŠ‹• DzŽ‡ƒ”‡†™Šƒ–Šƒ˜‡Š‡ƒ”†”‡ˆ‡””‡†
Distillery was something I could not enlightened many drinkers, and I to as ‘classically trained’ blending
Šƒ˜‡ƒ’’”‡…‹ƒ–‡†–Š‡ƒ•—…Šƒ• …”‡ƒ–‡†–Š‡ϐ‹”•–…—Ž‹ƒ”›ϐŽƒ˜‘—”™Š‡‡Ž techniques from my peers at Buffalo
†‘‘™ǡdz•ƒ›•–‡˜‡•ǤDzŠ‡‹…”‡†‹„Ž‡ ˆ‘”–Šƒ–‘—”„‘Ǥdz–‡˜‡•ǯ™‘”ƒ• ”ƒ…‡ǡdz•Š‡…‘–‹—‡•ǡƒ††‹‰–Šƒ–
‡š’‡”‹‡…‡ƒ†–”ƒ‹‹‰–Šƒ–‹…‘Ž a master taster opened the doors for ƒ•–‡”„Ž‡†‡””‡™ƒ›˜‹ŽŽ‡™ƒ•
Henderson, Woodford’s master distiller many other women to fall into place always willing to answer questions, talk
ƒ––Š‡–‹‡ǡ‰ƒ˜‡–‘‡™ƒ•‹˜ƒŽ—ƒ„Ž‡Ǥdz in an industry naturally suited to through calculations and demonstrate
–‡˜‡•™ƒ•–Š‡˜‹•‹–‘”…‡–”‡ ‘—”’ƒŽƒ–‡•ǡƒ†Š‡”ˆ‘—†‹‰‘ˆŠ‡ how things should be done.

Issue 174 | Whisky Magazine 27

Whisky Tasting Women & Whiskey Tasting

Šƒ–‹†‹–Š‡‹–…Š‡™Š‘Œ—•– This page from top:

thought that she was picky soon Peggy Noe Stevens
Ž‡ƒ”‡†‘–Š‡”™‹•‡ǣDz–„‡…ƒ‡˜‡”› drawing whiskey
from the cask;
clear that I could taste in more detail
Peggy and Lincoln
than others… the encouragement I got Henderson.
from my peers led me to start smelling
ƒ†–ƒ•–‹‰ƒ›ƒ†‡˜‡”›–Š‹‰…‘—Ž†
–Šƒ–‹‰Š–’‡”–ƒ‹–‘™Š‹•‡›Ǥƒ•–‹‰
someone’s banana bread, writing down
what I thought was in it and then asking
ˆ‘”–Š‡”‡…‹’‡Ǥ–‘‘ƒ†˜ƒ–ƒ‰‡‘ˆ‡˜‡”›
‘’’‘”–—‹–›…‘—Ž†–‘‡š’ƒ†›
˜‡”„‹ƒ‰‡•‘–Šƒ–…‘—Ž†…‘˜‡›™Šƒ–
™ƒ•–ƒ•–‹‰Ǥdz
‘™‡˜‡”ǡ–Š‡Œ‘—”‡›ˆ”‘„‹‘Ž‘‰‹…ƒŽ
truth to a career in the whiskey
industry isn’t all that straightforward.
According to Barnes, it takes time and
‡š’Ž‘”ƒ–‹‘ǤDzŠ‡•–ƒ”–‡†ƒ– ‘—”
‘•‡•ǡŽ‡ƒ”‡†–Šƒ––Š‡”‡™‡”‡‡˜‡
more subtle differences in the Bourbons
™ƒ•–ƒ•–‹‰ǡdz•ƒ›•ƒ”‡•ǤDz‡ƒŽŽ›
zeroing in on the different yeast codes
ƒ†Š‘™–Šƒ–ƒ†‡‡ƒ…Š‡š’”‡••‹‘
†‹ˆˆ‡”‡–ƒ†—‹“—‡ǤŽ‡ƒ”‡†•‡˜‡”ƒŽ
blending techniques from Brent Elliot
ƒ† ‹—–Ž‡†‰‡™Š‹Ž‡™ƒ•–Š‡”‡Ǥ
‰ƒ‹ǡ–Š‡”‡™ƒ•ǯ–‡˜‡”ƒ‰—‹†‡™‹–Š wears a light perfume or won’t wear
steps A, then B, then C and now you can any at all when tasting, but also takes
taste and blend. I suspect that this is precautions to ensure her palate is not
typical of anyone in the industry who ƒ†˜‡”•‡Ž›‹’ƒ…–‡†„›ˆ‘‘†‘”†”‹ǣ
–ƒ•–‡•ˆ‘”ƒŽ‹˜‹‰ǤŠ‡”‡ƒ”‡„ƒ•‹…–”—–Š• DzŠƒ˜‡ƒ†‡…Šƒ‰‡•‘˜‡”–Š‡›‡ƒ”•
that you will learn from senior peers to ensure my palate is always ready…
and then it is on you to take that and think of a professional athlete who uses
”—™‹–Š‹–Ǥdz —–”‹–‹‘ƒ†‡š‡”…‹•‡–‘‡‡’–Š‡‹”
Š‡•‡†ƒ›•ǡƒ”‡•‘……—’‹‡••—…Š „‘†›…‘†‹–‹‘‘”™Šƒ–ǦŠƒ˜‡Ǧ›‘—‹
a position in the industry that she tip top shape; I do things such as not
relies on her palate for her income by †”‹‹‰•—’‡”ǦŠ‘–Ž‹“—‹†ǤŽ‘˜‡ƒ‰”‡ƒ–
blending, detecting quality issues, and …—’‘ˆŠ‘–…‘ˆˆ‡‡‘”–‡ƒǢŠ‘™‡˜‡”ǡ›‘—
determining whether whiskey is mature will see me add an ice cube or wait until
‡‘—‰Š–‘„‡„‘––Ž‡†ǤŠ‹•‡ƒ••Š‡ –Š‡…—’‹••—ˆϐ‹…‹‡–Ž›…‘‘Ž‡†„‡ˆ‘”‡
has to worry about coughs and colds –ƒ‹‰ƒ•‹’Ǥdz
more than others might, and schedules …‹‡…‡–‡ŽŽ•—•–Šƒ–™‘‡ƒ”‡„‡––‡”
ƒ”‘—†Š‡”‘™•‡ƒ•‘ƒŽƒŽŽ‡”‰‹‡•ǣ suited to jobs as tasters and blenders,
“I always joke that it’s not a problem if but that’s only the beginning. It was
I were to break my leg but a cold could these women’s passion, dedication,
‘…‡‘—–ˆ‘”ƒ™‡‡‘”•‘Ǥdz ‡š’‡”‹‡…‡ǡ‹–‡ŽŽ‹‰‡…‡ƒ†•‹ŽŽ–Šƒ–
In addition to the strict precautions transformed inherent ability into a
she’s currently taking to safeguard keenly honed tool and propelled them
Š‡”•‡Žˆˆ”‘‘˜‹†Ǧͳͻǡƒ”‡•’—–•ƒŽ‘– –‘–Š‡Š‹‰Š‡•–Ž‡˜‡Ž•‘ˆ–Š‡‹†—•–”›Ǥ–
more thought into her sense of smell took a few great women shattering that
ƒ†–ƒ•–‡–Šƒ–Š‡ƒ˜‡”ƒ‰‡’‡”•‘‘ glass ceiling to open up the possibilities
ƒ†ƒ‹Ž›„ƒ•‹•Ǥ ‘”‡šƒ’Ž‡ǡ•Š‡‘Ž› for all of us.

28 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

Interview +DUU\5L̆NLQRI7DWORFN 7KRPVRQ

The Science
WORDS GAVIN D SMITH

of Flavour
+DUU\5L̆NLQLVWKHKHDGRI7DWORFN 7KRPVRQD
6FRWWLVKFRQVXOWDQF\ZKLFKKDVR̆HUHGVFLHQWL¿FVHUYLFHV
WRWKHZLQHDQGVSLULWVLQGXVWULHVVLQFH

W
hen opening a new bottle of going on to be appointed public analysts for the
whisky, one focuses on the city. The partners were key witnesses in the 1908
ƒ”‘ƒƒ†ϐŽƒ˜‘—”‘ˆ–Š‡•’‹”‹– ‘›ƒŽ‘‹••‹‘™Š‹…Š†‡–‡”‹‡†–Š‡ϐ‹”•–Ž‡‰ƒŽ
™‹–Š‘—–Šƒ˜‹‰–‘™‘””›–Šƒ– †‡ϐ‹‹–‹‘‘ˆ…‘–…Š™Š‹•›ǤŠ‡ϐ‹””‡ƒ‹•‹
it might contain anything business, safeguarding the integrity of spirits and
—–‘™ƒ”†Ǥ‘™‡˜‡”ǡ–Š‹•™ƒ•‘–ƒŽ™ƒ›•–Š‡…ƒ•‡Ǥ assisting distillers in optimising the quality of their
During the 19th century, adulteration of food and products. Now based on a farm site at The Teuchats
†”‹™ƒ•”‹ˆ‡ǡƒ•‡˜‹†‡…‡†„›–Š‡
Žƒ•‰‘™Š‹•› ‡ƒ”‡˜‡‹ ‹ˆ‡ǡƒ–Ž‘…ƬŠ‘•‘‹•Š‡ƒ†‡†—’
Scandal of 1872. The editor of the North British „›”ƒ””›‹ˆϐ‹ǡ™Š‘’—”…Šƒ•‡†–Š‡„—•‹‡••
Daily Mail obtained 30 samples of whisky from with the late Dr Jim Swan in 1993.
’—„Ž‹…Š‘—•‡•‹
Žƒ•‰‘™ƒ†Šƒ†–Š‡•—„Œ‡…–‡† ‹ˆϐ‹•–—†‹‡†ƒ–†‹„—”‰Šǯ•‡”‹‘–Ǧƒ––
to analysis. Only two were found to be genuine ‹˜‡”•‹–›ǡ„‡ˆ‘”‡—†‡”–ƒ‹‰ƒŠƒ––Š‡
‘whisky,’ while the others were either greatly diluted ‹˜‡”•‹–›‘ˆ†‹„—”‰Šƒ†•—„•‡“—‡–Ž›„‡‹‰
with water or, more worryingly, methylated spirits, ”‡…”—‹–‡†„›‡–Žƒ†•…‘–…ŠŠ‹•›‡•‡ƒ”…Š
–—”’‡–‹‡ǡˆ—”‹–—”‡’‘Ž‹•Šƒ†‡˜‡•—Ž’Š—”‹…ƒ…‹†Ǥ –†ȋ‘™–Š‡…‘–…ŠŠ‹•›‡•‡ƒ”…Š•–‹–—–‡Ȍƒ•
These practices occurred despite the existence head of distillation studies in 1985.
of the Adulteration Act (1860) and, ultimately, such ‘‘‹‰„ƒ…‘Š‹•–‹‡ƒ–‡–Žƒ†•ǡ‹ˆϐ‹
exposés led to the appointment of public analysts notes that one of the key issues of the day was
ƒ…”‘••”‹–ƒ‹Ǥ
Žƒ•‰‘™ǡŽ‡ƒ†‹‰ƒƒŽ›–‹…ƒŽ •’‹”‹–“—ƒŽ‹–›ǤŠ‡”‡™ƒ•ƒ’‡”…‡‹˜‡†Ž‘••‘ˆ
chemist Robert Rattray Tatlock and his nephew, †‡•‹”ƒ„Ž‡‡•–‡”Ǧ›‘–‡•‹‡™Ǧƒ‡•’‹”‹–ƒ†
Robert Thomson, established a business as food a problem of potential toxicology due to ethyl
and drink analysts in Bath Street during 1891, carbonate, a nitrogen compound.

30 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

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Issue 174 | Whisky Magazine 31

Interview +DUU\5L̆NLQRI7DWORFN 7KRPVRQ

He explains, “The Canadians had turnaround. The clearer the wort, the Opening pages: creating clear wort then spirit quality
‘–‹…‡†Š‹‰ŠŽ‡˜‡Ž•ȏ‘ˆ‡–Š›Ž…ƒ”„‘ƒ–‡Ȑ greater the presence of esters. Dr Harry Riffkin. …‘—Ž†‹’”‘˜‡ǤŠ‹•™ƒ•…‘–”ƒ”›–‘
‹‘—”„‘ǤŠ‹•™ƒ•‘–ƒƒŒ‘” Dz‡ƒŽ•‘ˆ‘—†–Šƒ–†‹ˆϐ‹…—Ž–› These pages, from the belief expressed by some at the
bottom left: Inside
problem for Scotch itself, but because controlling wash distillation could Tatlock & Thomson;
time that the generational change in
™‡™‡”‡—•‹‰‡šǦ‘—”„‘„ƒ””‡Ž•‹– †‡Ž‹˜‡”Š‹‰ŠŽ‡˜‡Ž•‘ˆ‡–Š›Ž…ƒ”„‘ƒ–‡ Waterford’s mash quality had come about as a result of
became an issue – there is up to 18 in the low wines. This was noticed in filter; Washbacks at ‘˜‹‰ƒ™ƒ›ˆ”‘—•‹‰„”‡™‡”•ǯ›‡ƒ•–Ǥ
Ž‹–”‡•‘ˆǮ‹Ǧ†”‹ǯŽ‡ˆ–‹ƒ…ƒ••‘–Š‡”‡ what we might term ‘class 1’ distilleries. Raasay Distillery. Armed with this new understanding,
was potential for contamination.” Ž‡ƒ”™‘”–‹•‘”‡†‹ˆϐ‹…—Ž––‘…‘–”‘Ž distilleries went back to slowing down
‘™‡˜‡”ǡ–Š‡Ž‘••‘ˆ‡•–‡”Ǧ†‡”‹˜‡† than cloudy wort during distillation,” mashing and using a coarser grind.
aromas was something that couldn’t ‡š’Žƒ‹•‹ˆϐ‹ǤDz‘†‡”†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”‹‡• “Once we had addressed controlling
be ascribed to American barrels. By with cloudy wort were producing spirit wash distillation by ensuring properly
the early 1990s, research had begun to that was not as good quality as that of balanced distillations, careful control
indicate that the new mashing systems the 1960s and 70s. Distilleries with of running rates and maximisation of
‹•–ƒŽŽ‡†–‘†‡Ž‹˜‡”ˆƒ•–‡”–—”ƒ”‘—† ‘Ž†ƒ•Š–—•–Šƒ–™‡”‡‘’‡”ƒ–‡†˜‡”› copper contact, we got rid of the ethyl
™‡”‡ƒŽŽ‘™‹‰ƒŽ––‘„‡‰”‘—†ϐ‹‡”ǡ slowly, such as Bruichladdich, Deanston carbonate issue,” he adds.
which increased turnaround time and ƒ†
Ž‡ϐ‹††‹…Šǡ’”‘†—…‡†…Ž‡ƒ”™‘”–ǡ ‹ˆϐ‹„‡Ž‹‡˜‡•–Šƒ––Š‡ƒ’’Ž‹…ƒ–‹‘
yield. It soon become clear that ester ™Š‹…Š™ƒ•–Š‡†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡†˜‡”›…ƒ”‡ˆ—ŽŽ›Ǥdz ‘ˆ•…‹‡–‹ϐ‹…’”‹…‹’Ž‡•–‘†‹•–‹ŽŽ‹‰…ƒ
ˆ‘”ƒ–‹‘™ƒ•’”‡˜‡–‡†„›…Ž‘—†› By the late 1990s, it was understood enable both quantity and quality to be
wort, which was caused by rapid that if the industry went back to ƒ…Š‹‡˜‡†ǡ‘–‹‰–Šƒ–‘•–†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”‹‡•
were quite unclean before 1970 and
this contributed to lower yields.
Combined with the widespread use
‘ˆ’‘‘”Ǧ“—ƒŽ‹–›„”‡™‡”ǯ•›‡ƒ•–ǡ–Š‹•
’‘‘”Š›‰‹‡‡ƒ†‡ˆ‘”˜‡”›‹‡ˆϐ‹…‹‡–
ˆ‡”‡–ƒ–‹‘•Ǥ••‡–‹ƒŽŽ›ǡ–Š‡”‡™ƒ•ƒ
Žƒ…‘ˆ—†‡”•–ƒ†‹‰‘ˆ„‹‘Ǧ…Š‡‹…ƒŽ
ƒ†‹…”‘Ǧ„‹‘Ž‘‰‹…ƒŽ’”‘…‡••‡•‹
the whisky industry. After scientists
started promoting modern sterilisation
techniques, fermenters began to be
’”‘’‡”Ž›…Ž‡ƒ‡†ˆ‘”‡ƒ…Š„ƒ–…ŠǤŠƒ–ǯ•
more, the optimum temperatures for
mashing were examined and yeast
™ƒ•‹’”‘˜‡†ǡ‡ƒ‹‰–Šƒ–™Š‡–Š‹•
optimised wash was introduced to clean
wash backs there was little standing in
–Š‡™ƒ›‘ˆ‡ˆϐ‹…‹‡–ˆ‡”‡–ƒ–‹‘ǤŠ‡•‡
’”ƒ…–‹…‡•‹’”‘˜‡†›‹‡Ž†•‡‘”‘—•Ž›
ƒ†‘†‡”ƒŽ–‹‰˜ƒ”‹‡–‹‡•‘ˆ„ƒ”Ž‡›
ˆ—”–Š‡”‹…”‡ƒ•‡†–Š‡˜‘Ž—‡‘ˆ’—”‡
alcohol that could be extracted per
tonne of malt.
Š‡‹–…‘‡•–‘–Š‡™‘”‘™
”‡‰—Žƒ”Ž›…ƒ””‹‡†‘—–„›ƒ–Ž‘…Ƭ
Š‘•‘ǡ‹ˆϐ‹‘–‡•–Šƒ–‘•––ƒ••
ƒ”‡”‡Žƒ–‹˜‡Ž›•–ƒ†ƒ”†‹•‡†Ǥ…‘‘
task is using gas chromatography and
ƒ•••’‡…–”‘•…‘’›–‘‹†‡–‹ˆ›•’‡…‹ϐ‹…
compounds in samples submitted by
†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”•ǣDz˜‡”›†ƒ›™‡‰‡–•ƒ’Ž‡•
which we monitor to check that they
meet with requirements for export
markets where there may be stringent

32 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

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”‹•Š†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”‹‡•ǤDz‡™‘”‡†‘–Š‡
ƒ–‡”ˆ‘”†’”‘Œ‡…–ˆ”‘–Š‡˜‡”›•–ƒ”–ǡ
‰‡––‹‰ƒˆ‘”‡”
—‹‡••„”‡™‡”›–‘
ƒ‡Š‹‰ŠǦ“—ƒŽ‹–›•’‹”‹–Ǥdz
—…Š‘ˆ–Š‹•™‘”‹••‡•‘”›ƒ†
the business now has a dedicated
‘sensory panel’ which helps distilleries
ȋ’”‹…‹’ƒŽŽ›‡™‘‡•Ȍƒ…Š‹‡˜‡–Š‡
Š‹‰Š‡•–Ž‡˜‡Ž•‘ˆ“—ƒŽ‹–›ǤŠ‡’ƒ‡Ž
—†‡”–ƒ‡•ƒƒŽ›•‹•‘ˆ‡™Ǧƒ‡•’‹”‹–
and sometimes mature whisky with the
ƒ‹‘ˆ†‡–‡…–‹‰ƒ›‹••—‡•–Šƒ–Šƒ˜‡
arisen or may arise in the future.
‹ˆϐ‹ƒ†‹–•–‘„‡‹‰ƒ…‘˜‡”–
–‘ƒ•Šϐ‹Ž–‡”•ǡƒ•‘’’‘•‡†–‘ƒ•Š
tuns, the likes of which can be found at
”‡‰—Žƒ–‹‘•ǡdz•ƒ›•‹ˆϐ‹ǤŠ‹•‹•ƒ„‹‰ ƒ†™Š‹•›ˆ”‘ƒƒ†ƒǤ‡Šƒ˜‡ƒ …Š†ƒ‹”‹‡‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”›‹ ‹ˆ‡ǡ…‘–Žƒ†ǡ
change from when he and the late core analytical team of 10 people, which ƒ†ƒ–‡”ˆ‘”†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”›‹”‡Žƒ†Ǥ
Dr Jim Swan bought the company; at ‹…Ž—†‡•–™‘˜‡”›•‡‹‘”ƒƒŽ›•–•ǡdz•ƒ›• ‡ƒ‹‹…Š™ƒ•–Š‡ϐ‹”•–†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”›‹
that time they could only process four ‹ˆϐ‹ǡƒ††‹‰–Šƒ–ƒ–Ž‘…ƬŠ‘•‘ …‘–Žƒ†–‘Šƒ˜‡‘‡ƒ†ǡƒ……‘”†‹‰
samples and one control each day. now do production analysis for 15 or –‘‹ˆϐ‹ǡ–Š‡•‡’‹‡…‡•‘ˆ‹–…ƒ„‡
Today that number is closer to 40 and a 16 distilleries – including assessment ‹–‡‰”ƒŽ–‘’”‘†—…‹‰˜‡”›Š‹‰ŠǦ“—ƒŽ‹–›
much more detailed analysis is possible, ‘ˆƒŽ–“—ƒŽ‹–›ǡˆ‡”‡–ƒ–‹‘‡ˆϐ‹…‹‡…›ǡ •’‹”‹–„‡…ƒ—•‡–Š‡›’”‘†—…‡˜‡”›…Ž‡ƒ”
largely because analytical equipment and distillation – on a weekly, monthly ™‘”–Ǥ‘™‡˜‡”ǡŠ‡‘–‡•–Šƒ––Š‡”‡
Šƒ•‹’”‘˜‡†•‹‰‹ϐ‹…ƒ–Ž›‘˜‡”–Š‡’ƒ•– or quarterly basis. ƒ”‡‘–Š‡”™ƒ›•–‘ƒ…Š‹‡˜‡–Š‡•ƒ‡
two decades. “It’s nice to be in at the beginning aims: “The new distillery at Burnbrae,
Dz‡™‘”™‹–Š‘•–ȏ™‹‡ƒ†•’‹”‹–Ȑ of something,” he says, noting that ƒ•–‹Ž„”‹†‡ǡ–Šƒ–™‡ǯ”‡™‘”‹‰™‹–Š
companies in the UK, plus producers ƒ–Ž‘…ƬŠ‘•‘Šƒ•„‡‡‹˜‘Ž˜‡† has a properly designed, shallow bed,
‘ˆƒ”‹„„‡ƒ”—ǡ˜‘†ƒˆ”‘–Š‡ with many of the recently established ™‹†‡Ǧ„‘†›Žƒ—–‡”–—‹…‘Œ—…–‹‘

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Interview +DUU\5L̆NLQRI7DWORFN 7KRPVRQ

™‹–Šƒƒ•Š…‘˜‡”•‹‘˜‡••‡ŽǤŠ‹• Š‹•‹•„‡…ƒ—•‡‡šǦ™‹‡…ƒ••‘ˆ–‡
will produce clear wort with rapid Šƒ˜‡Šƒ†•—Ž’Š—”…ƒ†Ž‡•‹–Š‡ˆ‘”
turnaround times.’’ fumigation purposes to inhibit growth
‘–Š‡”‹••—‡Š‡‹•‡‡–‘ϐŽƒ‰—’ of bacteria which might infect any wine
is fermentation temperature control. ϐ‹ŽŽ‡†‹–‘–Š‡…ƒ•ǤŠ‹•‰‡‡”ƒ–‡•
Dz•—ƒŽŽ›–Š‡”‡‹•˜‡”›Ž‹––Ž‡…‘–”‘Ž‘˜‡” –Š‡’‘–‡–‹ƒŽˆ‘”‘”‰ƒ‘Ǧ•—Ž’Š—”
fermentation temperatures,” he says. compounds to appear in spirit that’s
Dz‘——•‡†–‘Šƒ˜‡Ǯ•—‡”™Š‹•›ǯƒ† matured in these casks at a later date.
‘winter whisky,’ which could be quite Dz‡‘™–Š‹–Šƒ––Š‡”‡ƒ”‡–Š”‡‡
different.” In order to combat this cause possible sources for these compounds,
‘ˆ˜ƒ”‹ƒ–‹‘ǡ–‡’‡”ƒ–—”‡Ǧ…‘–”‘ŽŽ‡† which include sulphur candling, the
fermenters are coming into use which ’”‡˜‹‘—•Ž›ϐ‹ŽŽ‡†™‹‡ǡƒ†–Š‡‡™Ǧ
allow distillers to optimise conditions make spirit itself. All or some of these
for the yeast during fermentation, ƒ›„‡–Š‡•‘—”…‡‘ˆ–Š‡˜‡‰‡–ƒ„Ž‡Ǧ–›’‡
before increasing the temperature ‘”‰ƒ‘Ǧ•—Ž’Š—”ƒ”‘ƒ•Ǥ‡ƒ”‡ƒŽ•‘ This page: concept of terroir from an analytical
after 48 hours to promote secondary looking at differences between worm STR casks at ’‘‹–‘ˆ˜‹‡™Ǥdz
Žƒ…–‹…ƒ…‹†ˆ‡”‡–ƒ–‹‘ǤDz–ǯ•˜‡”› –—„•ƒ†•Š‡ŽŽǦƒ†Ǧ–—„‡…‘†‡•‡”•‹ Lindores; The late ‹–Š•‘ƒ›”‡‰—Žƒ”†—–‹‡•–‘
Dr Jim Swan.
‹’‘”–ƒ–ˆ‘”ϐŽƒ˜‘—”ǡdzŠ‡ƒ††•ǤDz–Š‹ ”‡Žƒ–‹‘–‘‘”‰ƒ‘Ǧ•—Ž’Š—”…‘’‘—†• perform and new areas to research,
it should be a criminal offence to build and feints character.” ƒ–Ž‘…ƬŠ‘•‘Šƒ•‡˜‡”„‡‡
a new distillery without fermentation Š‡•‡…‘†Š’”‘Œ‡…–”‡Žƒ–‡•–‘ busier and this means expansion has
–‡’‡”ƒ–—”‡…‘–”‘ŽǨ”‘’‡”…‘–”‘Ž ϐ‹ŽŽ‹‰•–”‡‰–Šƒ†™Š‡–Š‡”–Š‹••Š‘—Ž† „‡‡‡…‡••ƒ”›ǣDz‡ǯ”‡…‘•–”—…–‹‰
of condenser water temperatures „‡˜ƒ”‹‡††‡’‡†‹‰‘–Š‡–›’‡‘ˆ a second building that will house a
throughout the year also helps.” …ƒ•„‡‹‰ϐ‹ŽŽ‡†ǤDzˆ•‘‡‘‡‹•—•‹‰ƒ molecular biology lab which can look
In addition to the more routine •‡…‘†ǡ–Š‹”†ǡ‘”‡˜‡ˆ‘—”–ŠǦϐ‹ŽŽ…ƒ•ǡ‹• ƒ–‰‡‡–‹…ƒŽŽ›‘†‹ϐ‹‡†…‘’‘—†•Ǥ
†ƒ›Ǧ–‘Ǧ†ƒ›–ƒ••ǡƒ–Ž‘…ƬŠ‘•‘ ͸͵Ǥͷؐ‡…‡••ƒ”‹Ž›–Š‡‘’–‹—ϐ‹ŽŽ‹‰ ‡ǯ”‡ƒŽ•‘‹•–ƒŽŽ‹‰ƒ–”‹ƒŽ†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”›–‘
‹•…—””‡–Ž›—†‡”–ƒ‹‰–™‘™‘‘†Ǧ •–”‡‰–Šǫdzƒ••‹ˆϐ‹ǡ„‡ˆ‘”‡‰‘‹‰‘ offer training facilities for staff and to
”‡Žƒ–‡†Š•–—†‹‡•Ǥ” ‹™ƒŽ‡ˆ– –‘‡š’Žƒ‹–Šƒ––Š‹•‹•Œ—•–‘‡ƒ”‡ƒ‘ˆ …‘†—…––‡•–†‹•–‹ŽŽƒ–‹‘•ǡdz•ƒ›•‹ˆϐ‹Ǥ
ƒ–Ž‘…ƬŠ‘•‘–‘‡•–ƒ„Ž‹•ŠŠ‹• ™‘‘†”‡•‡ƒ”…Š–Šƒ–‹•„‡‡ϐ‹–‹‰ˆ”‘ A great deal of whisky is marketed by
own international spirits consultancy new techniques and technologies. “The emphasising its heritage and apparent
in 2002, and one aspect of whisky ‹–”‘†—…–‹‘‘ˆǡ‹†—…–‹˜‡Ž› Ǯ…”ƒˆ–ǯ’”‘˜‡ƒ…‡ǡ‡˜‡‹ˆ–Š‡†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”›
production in which he specialised was coupled plasma mass spectrometry, that makes it is operated by one man
maturation. “He had done a great deal ƒŽŽ‘™•—•–‘Ž‘‘˜‡”›•’‡…‹ϐ‹…ƒŽŽ›ƒ– ƒ†ƒ‹ƒ†Ǥ‘™‡˜‡”ǡ‹–‹•”‡ƒŽŽ›
‘ˆ™‘”‘–Šƒ–ǡdz•ƒ›•‹ˆϐ‹ǤDzŽ‘–‘ˆ elements of the periodic table and –Š‡ƒ’’Ž‹…ƒ–‹‘‘ˆ•…‹‡…‡–‘˜ƒ”›‹‰
wood expertise was lost when Jim the correlations between calcium and †‡‰”‡‡•–Šƒ–‡ƒ„Ž‡•…‘•‹•–‡–Ž›Š‹‰ŠǦ
Swan died.” magnesium in the wood and how that “—ƒŽ‹–›™Š‹•›–‘„‡’”‘†—…‡†Ǥ ‘”–Šƒ–ǡ
‘†ƒ›ǡƒ–Ž‘…ƬŠ‘•‘ƒ”‡‘™ ƒˆˆ‡…–•ƒ–—”ƒ–‹‘ǤŠ‡”‡Šƒ•–Š‡™‘‘† ™‡Šƒ˜‡–‘–Šƒ•…‹‡–‹•–•‘ˆ”‹‰‘”‘—•
Ž‘‘‹‰ƒ––Š‡”‘Ž‡‘ˆ‡šǦ™‹‡…ƒ••‹ been grown and what has it got from intellect and perpetual curiosity like
”‡Žƒ–‹‘–‘‘”‰ƒ‘Ǧ•—Ž’Š—”…‘’‘—†•Ǥ –Š‡•‘‹Ž–Š‡”‡ǫ‡ǯ”‡‡š’Ž‘”‹‰–Š‡ ƒ””›‹ˆϐ‹ƒ†Š‹•…‘ŽŽ‡ƒ‰—‡•Ǥ

34 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

 SPECIAL PROMOTION Breckenridge

WORDS HOLLY BATTISTA-RESIGNOLO

Breckenridge Distillery’s
award-winning liquid chef
“If it is edible, I can make a cocktail out of it”
Keithley's approachable demeanour
and incredible passion for the craft
boldly shine. Her role at Breckenridge
Distillery can be summed up in one
word: unique. Keithley is not your
traditional bar manager. From her
outgoing personality and hair, rimmed
glasses, and rockabilly style, to her
passion and love for the industry,
Billie is quite unforgettable in the
best of ways. Litch Polich, investor of
Breckenridge Distillery and friend of
Billie, summarised her skills: “I think
the fact that Billie wears so many
hats is what makes her such a great
bar manager; she's done it all, which
also means not only can she handle
the daily minutia that a bar requires
but also conveys empathy for those
she manages.” He goes on to say she
© LIAM DORAN

genuinely wants to see her staff grow

and succeed while mastering the skills
to give the guest the best experience.

C
As the face of Breckenridge
rafting memorable cocktails culinary crafts and spirits; each of her Above: Distillery, Keithley is highly active in
from award-winning †‹•…‘˜‡”‹‡•ƒŽ‘‰™‹–Šƒ„‹–‘ˆ•…‹‡–‹ϐ‹… Breckenridge national events, offers bartending
whiskeys is an art and knowledge is shaken and stirred into Distillery Icons of and cocktail instruction, is featured in
Whisky Bar Manager
‘science’ that Billie Keithley, her work. Keithley's large home lab, numerous national news segments,
of the Year
liquid chef of Breckenridge which most people call a kitchen, leads the distillery’s virtual cocktail
Distillery, has mastered. Her passion for allows her to conduct trial and error demonstrations and is involved with
the product and the industry have not experiments that result in show-stopper Colorado Bartenders Guild. On top of
gone unnoticed. Keithley’s incredible staff cocktail recipes for the distillery’s that, Keithley is preparing to achieve a
at the Breckenridge Distillery Restaurant restaurant menu, and presentations Master’s accreditation from the United
and years of innovations, education and –Šƒ–‘ˆ–‡‹…‘”’‘”ƒ–‡•‘‡ǡϐ‹”‡ǡ States Bartenders’ Guild.
experimentation have culminated with and bubbles. “Bartending taught me In 2021, Breckenridge was also
the honourable title: 2021 American math and science. Over a decade ago awarded American Icons runner-up
Icons of Whisky Bar Manager of the Year. I dabbled in molecular gastronomy. for Visitor Attraction of the Year, Best
The world surrounding Keithley Now I'm back in that realm... elevating American Blended for their PX Sherry
is her sensory inspiration board, the ideas further. I’m constantly Cask Finish at the World Whiskies
from the smells of the seasons and a experimenting with powders, acids, Awards and World’s Best Compound
visual from the sky to ideas garnered thickening agents, textures and more. Gin and America’s Best Compound Gin
from Food Network shows and every I'm trying to create an experience with at the World Gin Awards.
book and magazine on the subject of each cocktail,” explained Keithley. breckenridgedistillery.com

Issue 174 | Whisky Magazine 35

Production Filling Strengths

PROOF OF

36 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

 Production Filling Strengths

WORDS IAN WISNIEWSKI once it’s a tradition, it’s a very bold

move to change it. Every cask at either

ENTRY
ϐ‹ŽŽ‹‰•–”‡‰–Š…‘—Ž†„‡—•‡†‹ƒ›
‡š’”‡••‹‘Ǥ
Ž‡ϐ‹††‹…Šͳʹ‡ƒ”•Ž†ǡ
ˆ‘”‡šƒ’Ž‡ǡ…‘’”‹•‡•…ƒ••ϐ‹ŽŽ‡†ƒ–
both strengths,” says Brian Kinsman,
William Grant & Sons master blender.
Meanwhile, according to master
distiller Billy Walker, the team at
Š‡
Ž‡ŽŽƒ…Š‹‡ϐ‹ŽŽƒ–ˆ‘—”†‹ˆˆ‡”‡–
strengths: 63.5%, 65%, 67% and 69.3%
ABV, depending on the cask type being
ϐ‹ŽŽ‡†ƒ†–Š‡‹–‡†‡†ƒ–—”ƒ–‹‘
’‡”‹‘†Ǥ‘–Š‡”‘’–‹‘‹•ϐ‹ŽŽ‹‰ƒ–
receiver strength and this practice is
Filling a cask isn’t as simple as pouring …‘‘ƒ–ƒ—„‡”‘ˆ‰”ƒ‹ƒ†ƒŽ–
™Š‹•›†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”‹‡•Ǣ”—‹…ŠŽƒ††‹…Šǡˆ‘”
spirit through a bung hole ‡šƒ’Ž‡ǡŠƒ•ϐ‹ŽŽ‡†ƒ–”‡…‡‹˜‡”•–”‡‰–Š
‘ˆ͸ͻΨ•‹…‡”‡Ǧ‘’‡‹‰‹ʹͲͲͳǤ
Š‡”‡ƒ”‡ƒˆ‡™ˆƒ…–‘”•‹ϐŽ—‡…‹‰
ƒ†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”ǯ•†‡…‹•‹‘–‘ϐ‹ŽŽƒ–ƒ

W
’ƒ”–‹…—Žƒ”•–”‡‰–ŠǤ ‹”•–Ž›ǡ–Š‡”‡ƒ”‡
hen tasting a malt Diageo and Pernod Ricard, which own Opening pages: –Š‡’”ƒ…–‹…ƒŽ‹–‹‡•ǤŠ‡Š‹‰Š‡”–Š‡ϐ‹ŽŽ‹‰
whisky, two focal Žƒ”‰‡—„‡”•‘ˆ†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”‹‡•’”‘†—…‹‰ Filling the cask. •–”‡‰–Š‹•ǡ–Š‡Ž‘™‡”–Š‡ϐ‹ƒŽ˜‘Ž—‡
points are the a varied style of makes. Nevertheless, ‘ˆŽ‹“—‹†ǡ™Š‹…Š”‡“—‹”‡•ˆ‡™‡”…ƒ••
alcoholic strength –”ƒ†‹‰•–‹ŽŽ‰‘‡•‘ƒ†–Š‡‹†—•–”› ƒ†–Š‡”‡ˆ‘”‡Ž‡••™ƒ”‡Š‘—•‹‰•’ƒ…‡
chosen for bottling, •–ƒ†ƒ”†Šƒ••–—…Ǥ Ȃ„‘–Š‘ˆ™Š‹…Š”‡•—Ž–‹Ž‘™‡”‘˜‡”ƒŽŽ
ƒ†–Š‡‹ϐŽ—‡…‡‘ˆ–Š‡…ƒ•–›’‡ As new make settles in the spirit cost to the distiller. Correspondingly,
—•‡†ˆ‘”ƒ‰‡‹‰ǡƒ•„‘–Š‹ϐŽ—‡…‡–Š‡ receiver at what’s called ‘receiver Ž‘™‡”ϐ‹ŽŽ‹‰•–”‡‰–Š•…”‡ƒ–‡‰”‡ƒ–‡”
‘˜‡”ƒŽŽϐŽƒ˜‘—”’”‘ϐ‹Ž‡ƒ†Š‘™–Š‘•‡ •–”‡‰–Šǯǡ–›’‹…ƒŽŽ›ƒ”‘—†͹ͲΨǡ ˜‘Ž—‡•‘ˆŽ‹“—‹†ǡ‡ƒ‹‰‘”‡…ƒ••
characteristics are experienced by water is added to reach this lower ƒ†™ƒ”‡Š‘—•‹‰•’ƒ…‡ǡ‹…”‡ƒ•‹‰
the drinker. An earlier step on each ϐ‹ŽŽ‹‰•–”‡‰–ŠǤ‘™‡˜‡”ǡ‹–•Š‘—Ž†„‡ …‘•–•ǤŠ‡ˆƒ…––Šƒ–Ž‘™‡”ϐ‹ŽŽ‹‰
™Š‹•›ǯ•Œ‘—”‡›™Š‹…ŠƒŽ•‘…‘„‹‡• ‘–‡†–Šƒ––Š‹•‹•Šƒ”†Ž›ƒ—‹˜‡”•ƒŽ •–”‡‰–Š•‡ƒƒ††‹‰‰”‡ƒ–‡”ƒ‘—–•
„‘–Š‘ˆ–Š‡•‡ƒ•’‡…–•‹•–Š‡ϐ‹ŽŽ‹‰ ƒ’’”‘ƒ…Šƒ†ƒ–
Ž‡ϐ‹††‹…ŠǡƒŽ˜‡‹‡ ‘ˆ™ƒ–‡”Šƒ•„”‘—‰Š–ƒ„‘—–ƒϐŽ‹’’ƒ–
strength: that is to say, the alcoholic and Kininvie, for example, new-make ‹†—•–”›•ƒ›‹‰ǣDzŠ›ƒ‰‡™ƒ–‡”ǫdz
•–”‡‰–Š‘ˆ‡™Ǧƒ‡•’‹”‹–™Š‡ϐ‹ŽŽ‡† •’‹”‹–ƒ–͹ͳΨ‹•”‡†—…‡†–‘–™‘ However, this ‘common-sense’
into a cask. †‹ˆˆ‡”‡–ϐ‹ŽŽ‹‰•–”‡‰–Š•‘ˆ͸͵ǤͷΨ ˜‹‡™‡‰Ž‡…–•–Š‡•…‹‡–‹ϐ‹…”‡ƒŽ‹–‹‡•‘ˆ
Š‡‘”ƒŽϐ‹ŽŽ‹‰•–”‡‰–Š‹–Š‡ ƒ†͸ͺǤͷΨǤDzŠ‡•‡ƒ”‡‘—” ƒ–—”ƒ–‹‘Ǥ–Šƒ•„‡‡’”‘˜‡–Šƒ–ƒ
…‘–…Š™Š‹•›‹†—•–”›‹•͸͵ǤͷΨ –”ƒ†‹–‹‘ƒŽϐ‹ŽŽ‹‰•–”‡‰–Š•ˆ‘”ƒ•ˆƒ” combination of alcohol and water is
ȋƒŽ…‘Š‘Ž„›˜‘Ž—‡Ȍǡƒ•–ƒ†ƒ”†™Š‹…Š „ƒ…ƒ•™‡…ƒ•‡‡‹‘—””‡…‘”†•ƒ†ǡ more effective at extracting desirable
enables companies to easily trade casks
‘ˆ–Š‡•ƒ‡ƒ‰‡ƒ†˜‘Ž—‡ǮŽ‹‡ˆ‘”
like’ as, when dealing in new spirit,
alcoholic concentration is intrinsically
Ž‹‡†–‘˜ƒŽ—‡ǤŠ‡…ƒ’ƒ…‹–›–‘Ǯ•™ƒ’ǯ
with other distilleries has historically 7KHUHDUHDIHZIDFWRUVLQÀXHQFLQJ
been a necessity for whisky makers, as
all need to have access to a wide range
DGLVWLOOHU¶VGHFLVLRQWR¿OODWD
‘ˆϐŽƒ˜‘—”•ƒ†•’‹”‹–•–›Ž‡•ˆ‘”„Ž‡†‹‰
’—”’‘•‡•Ȃ–Š‘—‰Š–Š‹•”‡“—‹”‡‡–
SDUWLFXODUVWUHQJWK
as it concerns the major blends has
„‡‡•‘‡™Šƒ–ƒŽŽ‡˜‹ƒ–‡†–Š”‘—‰Š–Š‡
…”‡ƒ–‹‘‘ˆŽƒ”‰‡…‘‰Ž‘‡”ƒ–‡••—…Šƒ•

Issue 174 | Whisky Magazine 37

Production Filling Strengths

ϐŽƒ˜‘—”•–ŠƒƒŽ…‘Š‘ŽƒŽ‘‡ƒ†–Š‡”‡ ͶͲΨǡdz•ƒ›•†ƒƒ‡––ǡŠ‡ƒ† These pages:

is a direct relationship between entry †‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”ƒ–”—‹…ŠŽƒ††‹…ŠǤDz…–‘‘”‡ǯ• Monitoring
’”‘‘ˆƒ†–Š‡Ǯ•’‡‡†ǯ‘ˆƒ–—”ƒ–‹‘ Š‹‰Š’‡ƒ–‹‰Ž‡˜‡Žƒ†Š‹‰Šϐ‹ŽŽ‹‰ maturation at
Glenfiddich.
‹–Š‡ϐ‹”•–ͳͲ›‡ƒ”•ǡƒ–Ž‡ƒ•–™Š‡ •–”‡‰–Š™‘”™‡ŽŽ–‘‰‡–Š‡”Ǣϐ‹ŽŽ‹‰
‡ƒ•—”‡†„›–”ƒ…‹‰…‡”–ƒ‹‡› ƒ–͸͵ǤͷΨ™‘—Ž†ǯ–‰‹˜‡–Š‡•ƒ‡
ƒ–—”ƒ–‹‘‹†‹…ƒ–‘”•ǤŠ‘—‰Šǡƒ•‹• ‹–‡•‹–›‹–Š‡”‡•—Ž–‹‰ƒŽ–ǤŠ‡
often the case in whisky, there’s still greater level of vanillin extracted
some room for debate. ƒ–ƒŠ‹‰Š‡”ϐ‹ŽŽ‹‰•–”‡‰–ŠƒŽ•‘
Žƒ˜‘—”…‘’‘—†•—•–•‘Ž—„‹Ž‹•‡ complements the phenolics very well.”
ȋ†‹••‘Ž˜‡Ȍ‹‘”†‡”–‘„‡‡š–”ƒ…–‡† However, this doesn’t necessarily
from the cask. Some of these are more translate into perceivable differences in
•‘Ž—„Ž‡‹ƒŽ…‘Š‘Žǡ‘–Š‡”•‹™ƒ–‡”ǡ the whisky when it’s nosed and tasted,
–Š‘—‰Š‡˜‡”›…‘’‘—†Šƒ•ƒ†‡‰”‡‡‘ˆ ƒ•”‹ƒ‹•ƒ‡š’Žƒ‹•ǣDzŠ‡Ž‡˜‡Ž
•‘Ž—„‹Ž‹–›‹„‘–ŠǤ–‡•–…ƒ•‡‹•˜ƒ‹ŽŽƒǡ ‘ˆ˜ƒ‹ŽŽ‹…ƒ„‡‰”‡ƒ–‡”‹…ƒ••ϐ‹ŽŽ‡†
‘‡‘ˆ–Š‡‘•–—‹˜‡”•ƒŽϐŽƒ˜‘—”•‹ ƒ–Š‹‰Š‡”•–”‡‰–Šǡ„—–‘…‡†‹Ž—–‡†
whisky. This derives from vanillin, for bottling there’s no difference in
™Š‹…Š‹•‘”‡ƒŽ…‘Š‘Ž•‘Ž—„Ž‡Ǥ the level of vanilla notes on a sensory
Dz‹ˆˆ‡”‡–ϐ‹ŽŽ‹‰•–”‡‰–Š•”‡•—Ž– ‡˜ƒŽ—ƒ–‹‘ǡƒ†–Š‡Ž‡˜‡Ž‡ƒ•—”‡†‹
‹ƒ†‹ˆˆ‡”‡–ϐŽƒ˜‘—”’”‘ϐ‹Ž‡ǡƒ•–Š‡ ȋ’ƒ”–•’‡”‹ŽŽ‹‘Ȍ‹•–Š‡•ƒ‡Ǥdz
interaction of spirit and wood differs. At ‡ƒ™Š‹Ž‡ǡ‹•ƒ’‘‹–•‘—–ǡ
ƒŠ‹‰Š‡”•–”‡‰–Š›‘—†”ƒ™ƒ„”‘ƒ†‡” ‡˜ƒ’‘”ƒ–‹‘ˆ”‘–Š‡…ƒ•‹…Ž—†‡•
”ƒ‰‡‘ˆϐŽƒ˜‘—”•ˆ”‘–Š‡™‘‘†ǡƒ† water and alcohol, which means
›‘—Šƒ˜‡–Š‡’‘–‡–‹ƒŽ–‘ƒ‰‡ˆ‘”Ž‘‰‡” –Š‡ƒŽ…‘Š‘Ž‹…•–”‡‰–Š‹•…‘–‹—ƒŽŽ›
„‡ˆ‘”‡–Š‡•–”‡‰–Š™‘—Ž††”‘’„‡Ž‘™ …Šƒ‰‹‰ǣDz˜ƒ’‘”ƒ–‹‘‹•–™‘’‡”

38 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

Production )LOOLQJ6WUHQJWKV

Issue 174 | Whisky Magazine 39

Production Filling Strengths

cent per annum, which includes an This page: even two warehouses next to each other ͸ͳǤͷΨƒ†͸͵ǤͶΨǡƒ†ƒ……‘”†‹‰
annual loss of 0.5% ABV in both our Taking time to rest. can have microclimates that modify to Neil Mathieson, whisky maker at
ϐ‹ŽŽ‹‰•–”‡‰–Š•ǤŠ‹•–™‘’‡”…‡–‹• –Š‡‹ϐŽ—‡…‡‘ˆ–Š‡…ƒ•ƒ†ǡ‘ˆ…‘—”•‡ǡ ‘”ƒ„Šƒ‹‰ǡ‡ƒ…Š…ƒ•‹•Žƒ„‡ŽŽ‡†ƒ†
indicative up to 12 years, then slows the overall maturation environment set up in such a way that the team can
down to one per cent for the next 10-15 ȋ‡ƒ‹‰•‡ƒ•‘ƒŽ™‡ƒ–Š‡”ƒ†Ž‘…ƒŽ directly compare casks where the only
›‡ƒ”•Ǥˆ–‡”–Šƒ–‹–ǯ•˜‡”›…ƒ••’‡…‹ϐ‹…ƒ• …Ž‹ƒ–‡…‘†‹–‹‘•Ȍ’Žƒ›•ƒ•‹‰‹ϐ‹…ƒ– ˜ƒ”‹ƒ„Ž‡‹•–Š‡ϐ‹ŽŽ‹‰•–”‡‰–ŠǣDzŠ‡”‡
‹–…‘–‹—‡•–‘ϐŽƒ––‡‘—–ǡ„—––Š‡”‡‹• role too. ƒ”‡†‹•–‹…–’ƒ––‡”•‹–Š‡ϐŽƒ˜‘—”
always some evaporation.” ‡˜‡”–Š‡Ž‡••ǡ”‡•‡ƒ”…Š‹•‘‰‘‹‰ƒ† ’”‘ϐ‹Ž‡•‰ƒ‹‡†ƒ–‡ƒ…Š•–”‡‰–ŠǤǤǤ—–
–ǯ•‘ˆ–‡•ƒ‹†–Šƒ–Š‹‰Š‡”ϐ‹ŽŽ‹‰ ‘”‡ƒ›„‡”‡˜‡ƒŽ‡†‹–Š‡…‘‹‰ we can only muse on the results until
•–”‡‰–Š•”‡“—‹”‡Ž‘‰‡”–‘ƒ–—”‡ǡ ›‡ƒ”•Ǥ‡”Šƒ’•‘”ƒ„Šƒ‹‰ǡ‘’‡”ƒ–‹‘ƒŽ we have actual empirical data.”
™Š‹Ž‡Ž‘™‡”ϐ‹ŽŽ‹‰•–”‡‰–Š•ƒ–—”‡ •‹…‡ʹͲͳ͹ǡ™‹ŽŽ’”‘˜‹†‡ƒ•™‡”•ǤŠ‡› As is so often the case in the world
more rapidly. One explanation for this Šƒ˜‡„‡‡ϐ‹ŽŽ‹‰‡™Ǧƒ‡•’‹”‹–ƒ– of whisky, it looks like we’ll just have to
is that the rate of reactions between the ˜ƒ”‹‘—••–”‡‰–Š•ǡ‹…Ž—†‹‰ͷͺΨǡ wait and see.
•’‹”‹–ƒ†–Š‡…ƒ••Ž‘™•†‘™ƒ–Š‹‰Š‡”
•–”‡‰–Š•ǡƒ†ƒ……‡Ž‡”ƒ–‡•ƒ–Ž‘™‡”
•–”‡‰–Š•Ǥ‘™‡˜‡”ǡ‘Ž›•‘‡”‡ƒ…–‹‘•
seem to be impacted by this (for
‹•–ƒ…‡ǡ”‡•‡ƒ”…Š•—‰‰‡•–•–Šƒ–‡•–‡”
ˆ‘”ƒ–‹‘”‡ƒ‹•…‘•–ƒ–”‡‰ƒ”†Ž‡••
‘ˆϐ‹ŽŽ•–”‡‰–ŠȌƒ†–Š‡‹••—‡‘ˆ‡šƒ…–Ž›
Š‘™—…Šϐ‹ŽŽ‹‰•–”‡‰–Š‡‡†•–‘˜ƒ”›
in order to alter the rate of development
…Šƒ‰‡•†‡’‡†‹‰‘™Š‘‹•ƒ•‡†Ǥ
‘‡•ƒ›ƒ•Ž‹––Ž‡ƒ•ʹΨ‹•‡‘—‰Š
to impact maturation character, while
‘–Š‡”•…Žƒ‹–Šƒ–ƒ…Šƒ‰‡‘ˆͷΨ
™‘—Ž†‘Ž›ƒ‡ƒ‡‰Ž‹‰‹„Ž‡…Šƒ‰‡
–‘–Š‡”‡•—Ž–‹‰™Š‹•›Ǥ‘ˆƒ”ǡ”‡•‡ƒ”…Š
•‡‡•–‘•—‰‰‡•––Šƒ–„‘–Š…ƒ„‡”‹‰Š–ǡ
†‡’‡†‹‰‘–Š‡‡šƒ…–ƒ–—”ƒ–‹‘
characteristics that the distiller wishes
to emphasise.
Š‡–Š‡”–Š‡ϐ‹ŽŽ‹‰•–”‡‰–ŠŠƒ•
ƒ’ƒ”–‹…—Žƒ”‹ϐŽ—‡…‡‘•’‡…‹ϐ‹…
styles of malt whisky is another
consideration. Peated malts are an
‹–‡”‡•–‹‰–‡•–…ƒ•‡ǡ„‡‹‰ƒ–‘‡
Ǯ‡š–”‡‡ǯ‡†‘ˆ–Š‡ϐŽƒ˜‘—”•’‡…–”—ǣ
Dz‡•‘‡–‹‡•ϐ‹ŽŽ”†„‡‰ƒ„‘˜‡
63.5% ABV, which promotes a smokier
™Š‹•›Ǣϐ‹ŽŽ‹‰„‡Ž‘™͸͵Ǥͷ؏ƒ‡•
it fruitier,” says Brendan McCarron,

Ž‡‘”ƒ‰‹‡ǯ•Š‡ƒ†‘ˆƒ–—”‹‰
© GLENFIDDICH DISITILLERY | © CHRISTOPHER COATES

™Š‹•›•–‘…•ǤDzˆ›‘—…Šƒ‰‡ƒ›–Š‹‰ǡ
–Š‡”‡•—Ž–™‹ŽŽ„‡†‹ˆˆ‡”‡–ǤŠ‡“—‡•–‹‘
is how different.”
‘†—…–‹‰‡š’‡”‹‡–•–‘”‡ƒ…Šƒ
†‡ϐ‹‹–‹˜‡˜‡”†‹…–‘ϐ‹ŽŽ‹‰•–”‡‰–Š•‹•
…ŠƒŽŽ‡‰‹‰Ǥ˜‡…ƒ••‘ˆ–Š‡•ƒ‡–›’‡
†‘ǯ–Šƒ˜‡ƒ‹†‡–‹…ƒŽ‹ϐŽ—‡…‡ǡ™Š‹…Š
‡ƒ•†‹ˆˆ‡”‡…‡•‹–Š‡”‡•—Ž–‹‰ƒŽ–
whisky can be down to cask variability
”ƒ–Š‡”–Šƒϐ‹ŽŽ‹‰•–”‡‰–ŠǤ‹‹Žƒ”Ž›ǡ

40 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

Dist
Di stil
stillle
lery
ry Foc
ocus
us In
Inch
ch
hgo
gowe
werr
we

F
For every Talisker and Inchgower distillery was founded had become too cramped and the
Lagavulin in Diageo’s in 1871 by Alexander Wilson & Co, enterprise, which had begun in 1825,
inventory of distilleries, beside what is now the A98 Fochabers was also in need of major upgrading,
there are many more lower- to Fraserburgh road, half a mile south with some sources suggesting water
’”‘ϐ‹Ž‡’Žƒ–•ƒ‹‰•’‹”‹– of Buckie, in an area once renowned supply was also an issue. Remains of
that rarely sees the light of day away for illicit distilling. The town is situated the distillery can still be seen today,
from the blending vats. Think Glenlossie, on the Moray Firth, and remains a with buildings having been used
Glen Spey and Inchgower. Think lively and productive port despite the subsequently for agricultural purposes.
Inchgower in particular as this distillery, †‹ˆϐ‹…—Ž–‹‡•ˆƒ…‡†„›–Š‡…‘––‹•Šϐ‹•Š‹‰ Inchgower remained in the hands of
located on the far north-eastern fringes ϐŽ‡‡–†—”‹‰–Š‡’ƒ•–ˆ‡™†‡…ƒ†‡•ǤŠ‡ Wilson & Co until the company went
of the Speyside region, is celebrating ϐ‹––‹‰‘—–…Š‰‘™‡”ǡ‹Ž•‘—•‡† bankrupt in 1936, when the site and
its 150th anniversary this year. equipment from Tochineal distillery, the owner’s house were purchased
Celebrations are likely to be suitably ™Š‹…Š–Š‡ϐ‹”Šƒ†ƒŽ•‘‘’‡”ƒ–‡†ǡ by Buckie Town Council for £1,000,
low key, but the style of malt created at located at Lintmill, near Cullen, some thereby becoming the only council in
Inchgower is an important component eight miles east of Buckie. Scotland ever to own a distillery.
of many Diageo blends and the role of Tochineal was built by Alexander Not only did their intervention
Scotland’s lesser-known distilleries Wilson’s predecessor John Wilson in safeguard jobs at Inchgower, but it
should never be underestimated. 1825, but by 1871 the Tochineal site ƒŽ•‘’”‘ϐ‹–‡†‰”‡ƒ–Ž›„›‹–•‹˜‡•–‡–ǡ

42 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

 Dist
Di s il
stille
lery
le ry Foc
ocus
u In
us nch
chgo
gowe
go w r
we

WORD
WO RDS
RDS GAV
VIN
N D. SM
S IT
ITH
H

Rarely publicised and mostly used for blending, this Morayshire

distillery nevertheless has a story to tell

selling the distillery on to Perth-based

Arthur Bell & Sons Ltd for £6,000 just
... the role of Scotland’s
two years later. Not that Bells was
complaining, as it had spent no less
lesser-known distilleries should
than £56,000 acquiring Blair Athol never be underestimated
and Dufftown distilleries four years
previously. Bell’s greatest years in terms
of sales were still ahead of it and were Bell’s grew to become Scotland’s followed by Blair Athol in 1973. The
largely driven by Raymond Miquel, who leading blended Scotch by 1970, and next year, Pittyvaich distillery (now
died earlier this year at the age of 89. in 1978 it was the best-selling blended demolished) was built in Dufftown and
Miquel joined Bell’s in 1956 and rose to Scotch in the UK, with sales growth in Bell’s total malt spirit capacity grew
the position of managing director in just terms of value increasing by around 800 from 4.75lpa to 13.44lpa. Miquel saw
a dozen years. Something of a martinet, per cent during that decade. that his distilleries were worked as hard
he was loved by some and loathed by Inevitably, such growth required as his staff and, in order to maximise
others, and reputedly once insisted that more spirit and Inchgower’s capacity output, short fermentations and rapid
senior executives accompany him on a was doubled in 1966 by the installation distillation were the order of the day,
training run in Perth on Christmas Day! of a second pair of stills, while Dufftown which dictated the nutty, spicy house
Under Miquel’s leadership, however, was doubled in size two years later, style that’s still favoured at Inchgower.

Issue 174 | Whisky Magazine 43

Distillery Focus Inchgower

HIGHLANDS
SCOTLAND

INCHGOWER
DISTILLERY

SPEYSIDE

When Guinness acquired Arthur allowing more suspended solids to be

HIGHLANDS
Bell & Sons as a result of a hostile carried through. We do short and long
takeover in 1985, Inchgower was one fermentations, with the short ones
‘ˆ–Š‡ϐ‹˜‡ƒŽ–†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”‹‡•‹…Ž—†‡† being very short at 39 hours. This gives
in the deal, along with Blair Athol, cereal, nutty and spicy characteristics.
Opening pages:
Dufftown, Pittyvaich and Bladnoch, We don’t give it time to develop estery Inchgower, a low-
with Bell’s having acquired the ‘–‡•ǡdz‡š’Žƒ‹•
—ǤDz—”‹‰–Š‡ϐ‹”•– profile distillery.
last-named Lowland plant two years distillation, cereal oils are carried over, These pages, from
earlier. Guinness went on to take over and we distil hard and fast to reduce above left:
The Distillers Company Ltd in 1986, the copper conversation and allow the Over the rolling
forming United Distillers, which was the heavier elements to carry over…there is landscape of
Speyside; A rooftop
forerunner of present owners Diageo – Ž‹––Ž‡”‡ϐŽ—šǡŽ‹––Ž‡…‘’’‡”…‘–ƒ…–Ǥdz view of Inchgower.
hence Inchgower’s inclusion in Diageo’s Esters give fruity characteristics to
28-strong portfolio of malt distilleries. spirit and are created when alcohol and
When it comes to creating acid molecules interact, with lengthy
Inchgower’s malt whisky, Ewan Gunn, fermentation producing banana,
senior global brand ambassador for ’‡ƒ”ƒ†ƒ’’Ž‡ƒ”‘ƒ•ƒ†ϐŽƒ˜‘—”•ǡ
Scotch whiskies at Diageo, declares which are not desirable in Inchgower
that, “The key character we’re looking •’‹”‹–Ǥƒ…‘ˆ”‡ϐŽ—šƒŽ•‘‹Š‹„‹–•–Š‡
for in Inchgower is ‘nutty’ with an development of esters and, in order to
oily background. We operate a fast avoid them as much as possible, the
production regime to achieve that. ‘middle cut’ begins as high as 70% ABV,
“We create a cloudy wort in the but continues until as low as 55% ABV
mash tun, which is rapidly drained, to capture heavier compounds late in

44 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

 Distillery Focus Inchgower

the run. The lyne arms are also quite

GETTING TECHNICAL steeply angled to assist collection of
these compounds.
Water source: Springs, Hill of Menduff
When ascribing stylistic
Malt: Unpeated, Laureate barley
characteristics to whiskies, one epithet
Mashing: Stainless steel semi-lauter
often applied to Inchgower is ‘salty’, in
mash tun, processing a 8.63 tonne
mash. Currently 12 mashes per week common with other distilleries located
Fermentation: Six Oregon pine near the sea, such as Pulteney and
washbacks, with a charge of 38,500 Diageo’s Oban. However, according
litres. Five long fermentations (90-100 to Ewan Gunn, “There is certainly not
hours) and seven short fermentations enough sodium chloride present that
(39 hours) per week you could detect. Inchgower is not
Distillation: Two ‘plain style’ wash stills chemically ‘salty’. It’s probably the
(12,800 litres capacity) and two ‘plain extreme spiciness and heavy nuttiness
style’ spirit stills (8,000 litres capacity) which imply that style. It’s not about
Capacity: 3.1 million lpa per annum any aspect of production... It’s about
maximum, currently operating at 2.1 ϐŽƒ˜‘—”ƒ••‘…‹ƒ–‹‘Ǥ–ǯ•‘–”‡ƒŽŽ›„‡‡
million lpa per annum explained, and it’s not about the casks
being matured beside the sea because

Issue 174 | Whisky Magazine 45

Distillery Focus Inchgower

some Inchgower is matured at the

distillery and some is not.”
When it comes to ‘salty’ Oban, Gunn
‘–‡•ǡDz ”‘ƒ•…‹‡–‹ϐ‹…’‘‹–‘ˆ˜‹‡™ǡ
it’s operated differently to Inchgower.
Long fermentations are the order of
–Š‡†ƒ›ǡ’”‘†—…‹‰ƒ•’‹”‹––Šƒ–‹•ϐŽ‘”ƒŽ
and sweet, then citrusy, with orange oil
notes.” He continues, “Inchgower is used
in quite a lot of our blends, including
Bell’s and J&B. It adds a richer, nuttier
ϐŽƒ˜‘—”ǡƒ††•„‘†›ƒ†”‘—†•‘ˆˆ‘–Š‡”
ϐŽƒ˜‘—”•™‡ŽŽǤ–ǯ•‰‘–ƒŽ‘––‘†‘™‹–Š
mouthfeel. It plays an important role at
a high age in Johnnie Walker Ghost &
Rare Glenury Royal. It’s respected and
admired by our blenders.”
In operational terms, Inchgower has
™‘”‡†ƒϐ‹˜‡Ǧ†ƒ›™‡‡•‹…‡ʹͲͳ͹ǡ
making 2.1 million litres of pure alcohol
(lpa) per year, but working 24/7, the
distillery could deliver 3.1 million lpa
per year. As the site is fully automated,
one man per shift can operate the entire
whisky-making process, if required.
ŽŽ–Š‡‡™ƒ‡‹•ϐ‹ŽŽ‡†‹–‘–ƒ‡”•
ƒ†–ƒ‡ƒ™ƒ›–‘„‡ϐ‹ŽŽ‡†‹–‘…ƒ••
Ȃ’”‹…‹’ƒŽŽ›”‡ϐ‹ŽŽ‘—”„‘Ȃ‹–Š‡
‡–”ƒŽ‡Ž–ǡ„—–ƒ•‹‰‹ϐ‹…ƒ–ƒ‘—–
goes back to the distillery to mature,
along with various other Diageo
whiskies. The dunnage and racked
warehousing at Inchgower can hold
65,000 casks and 61,000 are maturing
there at present.
Inchgower is, as may be expected,
elusive as a single malt, with the
principal ‘house’ expression being
Inchgower 14 Years Old (Flora & Fauna
series), while independent bottlers
currently offering Inchgower include
That Boutique-y Whisky Company (14
Years Old) and Signatory (12 Years Old).
Earlier this year, the Scotch Malt Whisky
Society released an intriguing 13-year-
old expression (No. 18:33) that has
„‡‡ϐ‹‹•Š‡†ˆ‘”–™‘›‡ƒ”•‹ƒϐ‹”•–Ǧϐ‹ŽŽ
ex-rye whiskey cask. Diageo included a
superb 27-year-old expression among
its 2018 Special Releases, which served
to showcase just how good Inchgower
™Š‹•›…ƒ„‡™Š‡–Š‹•Ž‘™Ǧ’”‘ϐ‹Ž‡
‘workhorse’ gets the chance to shine.

46 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

Whisky Design The Glencairn
Glencaiirn Glass

WORDS
JACOPO MAZZEO

A
Glass
For
All
Whisky Looking back on
the birth of an icon

W
hen, in the early 2000s, Italian pioneer
brewer Teo Musso and beer guru Kuaska
–‡ƒ‡†—’–‘†‡•‹‰ƒ‰Žƒ•••’‡…‹ϐ‹…ƒŽŽ›
devoted to beer, the Italian craft brewing
‹†—•–”›•™‹ˆ–Ž›ƒ†‘’–‡†‹–ƒ•‹–•—‘ˆϐ‹…‹ƒŽ
drinking vessel. Named Teku, after the inventors’ initials, the
glass gifted the category with a crucial sense of self-awareness
ƒ†™‹–Š–Š‡‡…‡••ƒ”›…‘ϐ‹†‡…‡–‘–Š”‹˜‡‹ƒƒ–‹‘‘ˆ
wine drinkers. Such was its success that the Teku glass was
eventually embraced well beyond Italy’s national borders;
today, it’s even endorsed by the often controversial yet iconic
Scottish craft brewer BrewDog.
Up until the late 1990s Scotch whisky was, coincidentally,
in a pretty similar boat. A range of different glasses, none of
™Š‹…Š™‡”‡•’‡…‹ϐ‹…ƒŽŽ›†‡•‹‰‡†ˆ‘”–Š‡‡Œ‘›‡–‘ˆ™Š‹•›ǡ
™‘—Ž†ϐ‹†–Š‡‹”™ƒ›–‘–Š‡„ƒ”Ǥ ‘”‹•–ƒ…‡ǡ–Š‡”‘…•‰Žƒ••Ȃ
ƒŽ–Š‘—‰Š’‘’—Žƒ”ƒ†’”ƒ…–‹…ƒŽȂ™ƒ•ǯ–ǡƒ†•–‹ŽŽ‹•ǯ–ǡ•—‹–ƒ„Ž‡
ˆ‘”ƒ’’”‡…‹ƒ–‹‰ƒϐ‹‡™Š‹•›ǯ•‘”‰ƒ‘Ž‡’–‹…“—ƒŽ‹–‹‡•Ǣ–Š‡
balloon glass, on the other hand, is certainly elegant and

48 Whisky Magazine | Issue 17

174
74
Whisky Design The Glencairn Glass

Issue 174 | Whisky Magazine 49

Whisky Design The Glencairn Glass

stylish but is primarily associated with them more space to breathe”, as Scott
Cognac and other brandies. It was ƒ˜‹†•‘”‡…ƒŽŽ•ǤŠ‡ϐ‹ƒŽ†‡•‹‰Ȃƒ
for this reason that, in the 1980s, the larger, stemless copita-inspired shape
ˆ‘—†‡”‘ˆ‰Žƒ••ƒ‹‰ϐ‹”
Ž‡…ƒ‹” Ȃ™ƒ•‡˜‡–—ƒŽŽ›”‡Ž‡ƒ•‡†ʹͲ›‡ƒ”•ƒ‰‘
Crystal, Raymond Davidson, set out to and soon became an icon for Scotch and
create a glass that would encourage the for the whisky industry as a whole.
user to fully appreciate the nose and ‘”…‘––ƒ˜‹†•‘ǡ–Š‡
Ž‡…ƒ‹”
palate of a whisky. glass won the global whisky community
“Champagne, brandy and wine, over thanks to its elegant yet functional
all had their own glasses,” explains †‡•‹‰ǡ™Š‹…Š•—ˆϐ‹…‹‡–Ž›’”‘‘–‡•–Š‡
ƒ›‘†ƒ˜‹†•‘ǯ••‘ƒ†
Ž‡…ƒ‹” concentration of aromas needed for
Crystal’s new product development serious whisky tasting but maintains
director, Scott. “And whisky, despite the ƒ’”‘ϐ‹Ž‡–Šƒ–ǯ•…‘ˆ‘”–ƒ„Ž‡–‘Š‘Ž†
scale of its industry, never seemed to and sturdy enough to drink from
have a glass that it could call its own. •‘…‹ƒŽŽ›ǣDzŠ‡…‘’‹–ƒ‹•“—‹–‡•ƒŽŽ„›
That was the fundamental thing he comparison and has a narrow aperture,
[Raymond] wanted to achieve.” Scott so it’s hard to socially drink from.
Davidson points out that his father Likewise, you’ve got a brandy glass with
was after a design that could help its massive surface area which channels
†”‹‡”•ƒ’’”‡…‹ƒ–‡™Š‹•›ǯ•ϐŽƒ˜‘—”• more alcohol [than a copita glass]
and aromas but at the same time look towards the nose.”
aesthetically pleasing. The idea took According to the Davidsons, the
ƒ™Š‹Ž‡–‘–—”‹–‘”‡ƒŽ‹–›ǣ–Š‡ϐ‹”•–
Ž‡…ƒ‹”‰Žƒ••ǯ™‹†‡„‘™Ž‹•†‡•‹‰‡†
prototype was developed in the 80s to allow easy appreciation of the
„—–”‡ƒ‹‡†”‡Ž‡‰ƒ–‡†–‘–Š‡ϐ‹Ž‹‰ whisky’s colour while its tapering
cabinet for nearly 20 years. It was mouth ushers aromas to the nostrils,
only in the late 90s that Raymond’s thus allowing for the detection of
•‘ƒ—Žǡ‘™
Ž‡…ƒ‹”ǯ•ƒƒ‰‹‰ subtle nuances. The base avoids contact
director, discovered his father’s whisky between the hand and the bowl, which
glass prototype while looking through ™‘—Ž†™ƒ”—’–Š‡Ž‹“—‹†Ǥ–ƒŽ•‘ƒŽŽ‘™•
samples and believed it had some the drinker to swirl the glass while
unexplored commercial potential. Ž‘‘‹‰—’”‡–‡–‹‘—•‡‘—‰Š–‘ϐ‹–
“The shape of the glass was like a short in a relaxed bar environment, where
copita but without the stem. It looked whisky isn’t necessarily the focus of
nice, it felt comfortable in the hand and the conversation. Admittedly, this is a
engaging to use,” says Scott Davidson. combination of factors that neither a
The prototype was sent for feedback …‘’‹–ƒ‘”ƒ„ƒŽŽ‘‘„‡‡ϐ‹–ˆ”‘ȂŽ‡–
to some of Scotland’s most respected ƒŽ‘‡”‘…•‘”•Š‘–‰Žƒ••‡•Ȃ„—––Š‡”‡
master distillers of the time, Robert happens to be far more to the success of
Mcelroy from Diageo, David Stewart –Š‡
Ž‡…ƒ‹”‰Žƒ••–Šƒ‡”‡ƒ‡•–Š‡–‹…
ˆ”‘‹ŽŽ‹ƒ
”ƒ–Ƭ‘•ǡ‘„‡”– and functional performance.
Hicks from Allied Distillers, Richard Dz ‘”—•–Š‡‰Žƒ••ǯ••–‘”›‹•‹’‘”–ƒ–ǡdz
ƒ–‡”•‘ˆ”‘Š›–‡Ƭƒ…ƒ›ǡƒ† explains Julie Trevisan-Hunter,
John Ramsay from The Edrington marketing director at The Scotch

”‘—’ǤDz–™ƒ•‡••‡–‹ƒŽ–‘‘„–ƒ‹ Whisky Experience, one of Edinburgh

–Š‡‘’‹‹‘•‘ˆ–Š‡•‡ϐ‹˜‡‡•–‡‡‡† and Scotland’s top tourist destinations.
master blenders to ensure the concept She believes that, with some of
would eventually be welcomed by the Scotch whisky’s most distinguished
whisky industry,” highlights Raymond ’‡”•‘ƒŽ‹–‹‡•‹˜‘Ž˜‡†‹‹–•ϐ‹ƒŽ†‡•‹‰ǡ
Davidson. After testing the prototype, the glass presented itself more as a
the master distillers advised Davidson team effort for the greater good than
to scale up the glass’s design, in order to a conventional business venture. “The
accommodate stronger spirits and “give fact that it was created collectively and

50 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

 Whisky Design The Glencairn Glass

collaboratively by so many people ˜‡••‡Žƒ†Ž‹“—‹†™ƒ•ǯ––Š‡‘Ž›‹••—‡ǣ

from many different distilleries, Dz‘—™‘—Ž†…‘•–ƒ–Ž›ϐ‹†„‹–•‘ˆ
has certainly had an impact on its broken glass in the dishwasher,” Julie
widespread popularity.” ”‡…ƒŽŽ•ǤDzŠ‡
Ž‡…ƒ‹”‹•ƒ…”›•–ƒŽ‰Žƒ••ǡ
’”‡Ǧ
Ž‡…ƒ‹”–‹‡•ǡŠ‡…‘–…Š ‹–ǯ•‘ˆ“—ƒŽ‹–›‘ˆ…‘—”•‡ǡ„—–•‘‡Š‘™
Whisky Experience would rely on it’s also really robust as an item.”
plastic cups and small balloon glasses: Trevisan-Hunter guarantees that
“Those brandy glasses! They were practicality was certainly the key to
pretty much all you could get that ‰”ƒ–‹‰
Ž‡…ƒ‹”–Š‡‹†—•–”›ǯ••‡ƒŽ
would allow you, to some degree, to of approval and the factor which led
assess colour, body, legs and those to its adoption by The Scotch Whisky Opening pages:
kinds of things. But they weren’t ideal. Experience. “We do lots of tastings The Scotch Whisky
People would immediately say, ‘Oh, you and events and wash thousands of Experience was an
use brandy glasses?’. They were not glasses. If they were really fragile it early adopter of the
Glencairn glass.
expecting to be drinking Scotch and would be a disaster. But storing the
These pages:
presented with something linked to a
Ž‡…ƒ‹”•ǡ–”ƒ•’‘”–‹‰–Š‡ǡ•–ƒ…‹‰ An ideal design;
different category and product.” them, taking them out, putting them The directors of
—–Žƒ…‘ˆ‹†‡–‹ϐ‹…ƒ–‹‘„‡–™‡‡ in, dishwashing them… they are really Glencairn Crystal.

Issue 174 | Whisky Magazine 51

Whisky Design The Glencairn Glass

practical to use and safe for people to Scotch Whisky Experience itself. The
take home and transport them in their Experience welcomes nearly 400,000
bags. As a commercial business, this visitors a year, 80 per cent of which
element is absolutely critical.” come from overseas. After each tour,
‘”‹”‹‰ŠƒŠ‹•›Ž—„‘™‡” –‘—”‹•–•”‡…‡‹˜‡ƒ
Ž‡…ƒ‹”–‘–ƒ‡
›‡–‘ǡ‘–‘Ž›‹•–Š‡
Ž‡…ƒ‹” home as a free gift (some two million
glass practical, it’s a springboard over the past decade alone), which
to kick-start a conversation around turns the glass into a tactile memory
whisky, too: “People are fascinated that visitors may transfer on to relatives
by the design and it’s always nice to and friends. Not only does this process
expand on that. As we are all about „”‘ƒ†‡–Š‡”‡ƒ…Š‘ˆ
Ž‡…ƒ‹”ǯ•
education, we do take time to chat business and of the Scotch Whisky
about why whisky glasses are made in Experience, it simultaneously promotes
a certain way and why we use them. Scotch whisky as a drink of choice.
‡ϐ‹†‹–ǯ•‡‹–Š‡”–‘‘†‡Ž‹…ƒ–‡‘” Unsurprisingly, widespread
too clunky, so a wide range of people endorsement has been coming from
feel comfortable using it. Newcomers brands, too: “It’s an easy win for a brand
to whisky don’t feel it’s too specialist –‘‰‹˜‡–Š‡‹”‘™
Ž‡…ƒ‹”‰Žƒ••‡•–‘
but it still looks good and enhances the bars,” says Birmingham Whisky Club’s
whisky-drinking experience.” Seton. “We have numerous branded
–‘’‘ˆ‹–•‹–”‹•‹…“—ƒŽ‹–‹‡•ǡ–Š‡ ones from whiskies we’ve worked with.

Ž‡…ƒ‹”‰Žƒ••„‡‡ϐ‹–‡†…‘•‹†‡”ƒ„Ž› And once whisky clubs started doing

ˆ”‘–Š‡‡†‘”•‡‡–‘ˆ‹ϐŽ—‡–‹ƒŽ their own and posting about them... I This page, from post about on social media tells the
‘”‰ƒ‹•ƒ–‹‘•ƒ†ϐ‹”••—…Šƒ•–Š‡ ‹ƒ‰‹‡–Šƒ–ǯ•™Š‡ȏ„”ƒ†‡†
Ž‡…ƒ‹” below: world how serious a whisky drinker
…‘–…ŠŠ‹•›••‘…‹ƒ–‹‘Ȃ–Š‡–”ƒ†‡ glasses] started to snowball.” Amy Seton; Julie you are. “It’s a status symbol,” she adds,
Trevisan-Hunter.
body that represents about 95 per According to Seton, the number of “as it will immediately indicate the
…‡–‘ˆƒŽŽ…‘–…Š’”‘†—…–‹‘Ȃ‘”Š‡ branded glasses you have at home and tastings you go to and the brands you’re
involved with.”
Seton is particularly devoted to the
glass herself and she has even made
it the main element of her club’s logo:
ƒ„ƒ”Ž‡›‡ƒ”‹•‹†‡ƒ
Ž‡…ƒ‹”‰Žƒ••Ǥ
“The brief to my designer was to make
something easily memorable but a clean
and clear image. We played around with
other glasses but the grain [barley ear]
‘Ž›™‘”‡†™‡ŽŽ™‹–Š–Š‡
Ž‡…ƒ‹”Ǥ
It really is the only glass that says
Ǯ™Š‹•›ǯǤǤǤŠ‡
Ž‡…ƒ‹”‹•‘”‡Ž‹‡†
to Scotch drinking than anything else.
Other glasses are used for other drinks
as well and we wanted to be very clear
© GLENCAIRN CRYSTAL | © SCOTCH WHISKY EXPERIENCE

and speak to whisky drinkers without

using text.”
Indeed, over the 20 years since
–Š‡Žƒ—…Š‘ˆ–Š‡
Ž‡…ƒ‹”‰Žƒ••ǡ–Š‡
vessel and the drink have entered into
a mutually favourable symbiosis. This
bond, in line with Raymond Davidson’s
vision, gifted Scotch and the wider
world of whisky with a glass that all
distillers and whisky drinkers can call
their own.

52 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

 WORDS PHOEBE CALVER

TH E
POWER OF
V ISIBILITY
Taking a closer look at the experience of one
former STEM student who has paved the way
for a more gender-diverse future of whisky

T
here are many levels of appreciation to be
explored when discussing whisky; at a surface
level we have the packaging that draws our
attention, or the style that we recognise, then
there’s the process of creation and the science
behind it that we could delve into for hours on end. However,
one thing that, in my experience, has gone under-explored and
under-discussed is the path well-travelled by whisky makers
in their formative years. To all intents and purposes whisky is
a science and an intricate one at that, but for many budding
STEM (science, technology, engineering and mathematics)
students, the idea of forging a career in the whisky industry is
non-existent. This particularly applies to women entering the
industry, who have lacked a visible powerhouse that they can
not only see themselves in, but also be inspired by.

54 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

STEM and Whisky Marianne Eaves

–Š‡ϐ‹ˆ–Šƒ—ƒŽ•—”˜‡›”‡Ž‡ƒ•‡†
by global technology and engineering
company Emerson, named the
Emerson Global STEM Survey, the
company noted a growing interest
in STEM careers in the US but also a
lack of encouragement, especially for
™‘‡ǤŠ‡•–—†›ǯ•ϐ‹†‹‰••–ƒ–‡†–Šƒ–
although six out of 10 Americans have
shown an interest in pursuing a STEM-
related career, fewer than four out of 10
have felt encouraged to do so.
The survey then took a closer look
at gender balance and discovered a
greater disparity among women, with
around two out of three stating that
they were not encouraged to pursue a
career in STEM.
The statistics presented in the study
strike a somewhat disheartening tone.
However, it is hoped that the tables are
turning with younger generations and
that platforms such as social media
can help to shine a light on the career
options available.
One such individual shining a light
on this very subject is Marianne Eaves,
‹†—•–”›…‘•—Ž–ƒ–ǡ‡–—…›ǯ•ϐ‹”•–
female Bourbon master distiller since
Prohibition, and founder of palate
development and Bourbon education
programme Eaves Blind.
Looking at the impressive roles
ƒ”‹ƒ‡Šƒ•ˆ—Žϐ‹ŽŽ‡†•‘ˆƒ”‹Š‡”
career, it is important to understand
how she got there. She explains, “I went
to college for chemical engineering,
but I didn’t know it was what I wanted
to do right away… I initially thought
I wanted to do something through
vocational school since I loved Auto
Shop in high school. I toured some
mechanics schools, and even went to
see ITT Tech, and then decided to just
hold off a little while because nothing
was really clicking.
“I decided to look into what chemical
engineers do. I learned pretty quickly
that they do some of everything,
basically every major industry employs
them, so I would have a pretty varied
list of potential careers waiting for me,
which was exciting.”

Issue 174 | Whisky Magazine 55

STEM and Whisky Marianne Eaves

However, the varied list of potential

careers didn’t open up Marianne’s
eyes to the possibilities in the world of
spirits. “It wasn’t until I was offered an
internship with Brown-Forman that I
really even thought of spirits as one of
those exciting potential opportunities.
Really, I didn’t know anything about
alcohol, but my mom advised that
Brown-Forman, if nothing else, would
be great to have on my resume, which
has absolutely been true,” she says.
Although Marianne was born in
Tennessee and raised in Kentucky, she
grew up in a dry county; this meant
that there were no bars or liquor
stores and alcohol was not something
she would interact with around the
house. Combining that fact with the
lack of awareness about progressing
into whisky careers for those studying
chemical engineering at the time made
ˆ‘”ƒˆ”‡•Š’ƒ‹”‘ˆ‡›‡•™Š‡•Š‡ϐ‹ƒŽŽ›
discovered her passion.
“I had no idea what it took to make
spirits, so when I discovered it was a
playground for an engineer I started to
feel more and more that I had found my
place, and a budding passion,” explains
Marianne. “Mostly I just wanted to all’. It’s important to consider just how Opening pages: The Historic Old Taylor Distillery and
learn, I wanted to know it all, every many talented female whisky makers, Master distiller „‡…‘‹‰‡–—…›ǯ•ϐ‹”•–ˆ‡ƒŽ‡
nuance of the science and the art that in particular, of the future are missing Marianne Eaves. master distiller without being a
This page:
make grains, water and wood come out on their chance to shape the spirit …Š‡‹…ƒŽ‡‰‹‡‡”ϐ‹”•–Ǥdz
Marianne on site
together to make really beautiful, because of a lack of visibility. during renovations During her years of studying chemical
ϐŽƒ˜‘—”ˆ—Ž•’‹”‹–•Ǥdz Marianne continues, “I wouldn’t at the now Castle & engineering, from 2007 to 2012, the
Although her reasoning for setting have got the internship that started Key Distillery. diversity there was limited. “In my class
out on a chemical engineering course it all, or risen through the ranks at of 40-ish students, we had six females,
was not initially the same as the Brown-Forman the way I did without and I believe we only had one black
outcome, had it not been for this –Š‡–‡…Š‹…ƒŽȀ•…‹‡–‹ϐ‹…‡†—…ƒ–‹‘Ǥ student, a few Latin students, and one
educational pathway Marianne fully wouldn’t have so quickly accumulated Middle Eastern student. It was mostly
acknowledges that she would never the knowledge that allowed me to make male and mostly white, which for an
have got the internship that ‘started it the huge move from BF to reviving engineering campus in Kentucky is
probably not surprising.”
Looking to the future, with the
assistance of stories like Marianne’s and
the platform that social media provides
I am really excited and proud to to publicise how it all came to be, there
is reason to hope that statistics such
have been a little bit of a face for as those mentioned in this article will
„‡‰‹–‘”‡ƒ…Šƒ‘”‡Ž‡˜‡Ž’Žƒ›‹‰ϐ‹‡Ž†Ǥ
the... rise of women in distilling As Marianne adds, “I think through
visibility of the opportunities that are
‘—––Š‡”‡ˆ‘”™‘‡ǡ™‡†‡ϐ‹‹–‡Ž›Š‘’‡

56 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

STEM and Whisky Marianne Eaves

This page: to see more young ladies choosing this

Marianne Eaves with route. Personally, with the interest in
whiskey in hand. ›•–‘”›ƒ†„‡‹‰ƒǮϐ‹”•–ǯŠƒ˜‡Ž‘–•
of young women, particularly young
women engineers, reach out to me to
ask for advice or to ask questions about
the path I took. I am really excited and
proud to have been a little bit of a face
for the movement and rise of women in
distilling, and it will continue to build,
without a doubt.”
Although the heightened visibility
of role models is invaluable, we have
to acknowledge that one of the root
causes is the way in which educational
pathways are often depicted as one
linear road for a particular type of
person. There are many students that
this appeals to, however, for others the
options and encouragement to pursue
them needs to be improved.
Marianne elaborated on this point,
“I think it’s partially the responsibility
of educational establishments to
ensure that their recruiting efforts
are targeting diverse groups and that
they do a good job of displaying an
equal representation of diverse people
working in these different roles.
“I knew I would make a good master
distiller, but I had no idea that I could
be one, until I was offered the chance
to train at Brown-Forman. I would have
never, as a young female, said I want to
do what Chris Morris does, having the
knowledge that every master distiller
for every Kentucky distillery up to that
point had been a white man.
“I also think it’s the responsibility of
employers to highlight their own efforts
in diversity and show young women
that even though most STEM careers at
this time are male dominated, it’s not
because women don’t stand a chance,
or somehow just innately can’t do those
jobs as well. Visible representation
makes a difference.”
With the combined efforts of
educational institutions, spirits brands,
and those individuals who have paved a
way for themselves in the whisky world,
the future looks a lot more diverse and
I, for one, am excited.

58 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

60 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174
 Obituary Willie Pratt

Remembering WORDS LIZA WEISSTUCH

Willie Looking back on the life of Willie Pratt,

master distiller emeritus at Michter’s

T
alk to anyone who to do. He was committed to it with and took a chance on him. They paid his
knew Willie Pratt a passion that I try to emulate in my way through school at the University of
and you’ll hear own life,” said Wilson, who started at Kentucky and he took classes at night
the same words Michter’s in 2014. “I’ve been blessed while he continued to work daytime
used to describe throughout my whole career to have shifts at the distillery.
him: dedicated, access to people like him, people with The gamble paid off. Over the
passionate, such incredible knowledge. It would next 40-plus years, he held roles
uncompromising (in a good way!), have taken my whole career to learn in production, researched aging
a perfectionist, a treasure trove of everything he taught me.” conditions and studied barrels and
knowledge, a character. Pratt, distiller Born in 1942, Pratt grew up in coopering. He was part of a generation
emeritus at Michter’s Distillery and a Hazard, a small town in eastern that ushered in a golden age of
member of the Whisky Magazine Hall Kentucky. His mother was a school Bourbon. His contemporaries and
of Fame, died in late December 2020 teacher and his father was a coal miner. friends included Heaven Hill’s Parker
in Louisville. His health had been in It was expected that Pratt would follow Beam, Wild Turkey’s Jimmy Russell
decline for several years, but he never suit, but he heard the sirens of the big and fellow Brown-Forman employee
let it get in the way of his work and his city calling, so he set off and arrived in Lincoln Henderson. In 2007, Michter’s,
love for the Bourbon industry. Andrea Louisville when he was 20. According which Joe Magliocco started to revive in
Wilson, Michter’s master of maturation, to his son, David, he got a job in the the mid-1990s, was producing its spirit
said that just days before he passed mailroom at Brown-Forman and, in contractually, as its physical distilleries
away, he sent her a several binders of classic whisky-industry fashion, worked hadn’t been built yet. Pratt had just
complicated charts and graphs. his way up the ranks. His passion and retired. Hearing that and knowing his
“He really was working up until the commitment were evident in those vast experience and technical dexterity,
end. And he was doing what he loved early days. Brown-Forman noticed it Magliocco approached.

Issue 174 | Whisky Magazine 61

Obituary Willie Pratt

“When I heard he retired, I asked him awards rolled in as a result of his refusal
if he’d like to come work for us part- to release early, justifying his nickname:
time, but part-time became 24/7. He Dr No.
loved the industry, he loved the people,” Pratt also championed heat-cycling,
said Magliocco, president of Michter’s. a process that involves heating up a
“I’m not trained in production like warehouse so the aging liquid reaches a
a distiller, but I have been fortunate determined temperature, then opening
to have the chance to listen to good windows to naturally cool it to another
people. Almost every time I had a ’”‡†‡–‡”‹‡†’‘‹–Ǥ”ƒ––‹†‡–‹ϐ‹‡†
conversation with Willie, I learned probes that could be inserted through
something new. He was a treasure the bung to monitor temperature and
trove of whiskey information. He just log and store data. “Willie transformed
knew so much. Also, you wouldn’t all of that so we could see trends of
necessarily expect it from looking at temperature increases and when it
him, but he could operate a computer stabilised and declined, so we could
and do Excel spreadsheets like a young monitor the aging process on all the
investment banker.” ϐŽ‘‘”•‘ˆ–Š‡™ƒ”‡Š‘—•‡•ǡdz‹Ž•‘
Pratt’s crowning achievements explained. It allows for consistent aging
throughout his career – and there in the warehouses, which is important
were many – were both technical and because Michter’s releases so many
theoretical. The changes he saw in single barrel products.
the industry throughout the decades While other distilleries have a
informed the assured production favourite spot in the warehouse or a
decisions he made at Michter’s. Wilson ’”‡ˆ‡””‡†ϐŽ‘‘”ǡ…‘•‹•–‡…›™ƒ•‡›ˆ‘”
notes that he was on the front line in Pratt and he demonstrated that it was
the 1960s when the rule changing entry worth the massive time investment.
proof to 125 from 110 went into effect, “Last time we reviewed it, we were
ƒ•–‡’–Šƒ–Šƒ•ƒ–”‡‡†‘—•‹ϐŽ—‡…‡ looking at over 70,000 datapoints. It’s
‘–Š‡ϐ‹ƒŽ•’‹”‹–Ǥ–Š‡‡ƒ”Ž›†ƒ›•‘ˆ intensive to look at all that temperature
Michter’s, Pratt suggested barreling at data, but it’s intrinsic to the aging
103 proof instead of the standard 80 process,” Wilson marveled.
proof. It would be much more costly, Pratt’s eminence in Bourbon history
but in the face of colleagues’ hesitancy, was appreciated by everyone who
he held his ground. He also insisted on worked with him. “He was one of the
releasing a product based exclusively on cool old guys from the generation that’s
‹–•ϐŽƒ˜‘—”’”‘ϐ‹Ž‡ǡ‘–•‹’Ž›™Š‡‹–Š‹– slowly disappearing. He’s one of the
10 or 12 years old and was eligible for originals and he was always hands-on
that age statement. This waiting game in distilleries,” said Rob Sherman, vice
can also prove costly but, when the president of Vendome Copper and
products went to market, accolades and Brass Works, the Louisville company

He was one of the cool old guys

from the generation that’s slowly
disappearing. He’s one of
the originals...

62 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

 Obituary Willie Pratt

These pages: known for the custom stills it builds

Michter’s was Pratt’s for distilleries far and wide. His great-
‘baby’, according to grandfather, William Elmore Sherman,
his son.
started the company in 1903. “They
were the ones down at the distillery in
–Š‡‹††Ž‡‘ˆ–Š‡‹‰Š–ϐ‹š‹‰•–—ˆˆǤ‡
knew the old days and had really cool
stories. And he knew the new days.
Guys today only know the new days. He
knew a lot more than I ever will.” Seven
years ago, Pratt shared a formula for
calculating what a barrel loses annually
to evaporation. He wrote it on a Post-It
‘–‡ˆ‘”Š‡”ƒǤ–ǯ••–‹ŽŽƒˆϐ‹š‡†–‘
Š‹•…‘’—–‡”‹Š‹•‘ˆϐ‹…‡ǤǮ‡”‹ŽŽ‹‡ǯǡ
it says.
Sherman, who worked with the
Michter’s staff to design and build stills
for both its main distillery in Shively
and the smaller tourism-focused
destination in Louisville, recounts the
time when Michter’s was getting off the
ground and he and Pratt drove more
–Šƒϐ‹˜‡Š‘—”•–‘—’’‡”Š‹‘‹’—”•—‹–
of Michter’s original stills, which by a
ϐŽ—‡Šƒ†„‡‡’—”…Šƒ•‡†„›ƒ•ƒŽŽ
distiller with a scrappy operation. Pratt
would stop at nothing to establish
authenticity at the revitalised Michter’s,
an historic brand with roots that stretch
„ƒ…–‘ͳ͹ͷ͵ǡ™Š‡–Š‡†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”›ϐ‹”•–
opened in Pennsylvania. It was named
Shank’s at the time. Sherman met with
Pratt once a week for almost a year
ƒ•–Š‡›–”‹‡†–‘ϐ‹‰—”‡‘—–Š‘™–‘‰‡–
all the equipment into both distillery
spaces. But regardless of what Pratt
and Sherman were working on, they
always made sure to talk about a shared
favourite hobby whenever they met.
“Whenever I stopped in to see him,
™‡–ƒŽ‡†ƒ„‘—–ϐ‹•Š‹‰ǤŠ‡Š‡™ƒ•
at Michter’s, I always asked why he was
™‘”‹‰™Š‡Š‡…‘—Ž†„‡ϐ‹•Š‹‰ǡdz
Sherman said. “But he just loved what
he did.” Everyone knew not to interfere
™‹–Š”ƒ––ǯ•ϐ‹•Š‹‰Šƒ„‹–Ǥ‡Šƒ†ƒ
place on Lake Okeechobee in South
Florida that he’d visit frequently and
his son David suspects there must
have been some clause in his contract
with Michter’s that allowed him time
to make regular trips to Florida. He’s

Issue 174 | Whisky Magazine 63

Obituary Willie Pratt

kidding, of course. Unless he isn’t. “Dad which was dedicated in Kyle’s honour. This page: †‡•…”‹„‡•™‘”‹‰™‹–ŠŠ‹–Š‡Ǯ–Š”‹ŽŽ
Ž‘˜‡†–‘ϐ‹•Šǡ‹–™ƒ••‡…‘†‘Ž›–‘ Through all the twists and turns life Willie Pratt at his ‘ˆƒŽ‹ˆ‡–‹‡ǯȂǮ–Š”‹ŽŽǯ„‡‹‰ƒ‘’‡”ƒ–‹˜‡
the whisky,” said David. “Hunting and took, though, his work was an anchor. induction into the word. “I think Willie was a daredevil
Whisky Magazine
ϐ‹•Š‹‰ǡŠ—–‹‰ƒ†ϐ‹•Š‹‰ǡƒ†ϐ‹•Š‹‰ “I think my father took Michter’s as a kind of person. I think he liked the
Hall of Fame.
and hunting.” project that he could put his own stamp adrenaline. I have a picture of me and
He had another priority, too: family. on,” said David. “I think he thought of it Willie. We were in the distillery in one
Pratt is survived by his wife Patsy; his as his own baby that he could raise and of those four-wheel vehicles like a golf
three children, David, Paula and Jason; nurture. He was so passionate about cart. He was driving and it was starting
three grandchildren, Katie, Shelby and bringing up Michter’s – more so than to scare me. The picture is of me
Nolan; and two great-grandchildren, all his work at Brown-Forman.” But for grabbing the steering wheel. I cherish
Avery and Owen. He also leaves his dog, all the seriousness Pratt brought to his that photo.”
Sophie. David fondly remembers hiding work, his lighter, adventure-seeking Hearing people speak about Pratt,
behind a door with his sister every day side was well known to all. He drove it’s apparent that mourning him is, in
when his dad got home from work. ƒ”‡†‘”˜‡––‡…‘˜‡”–‹„Ž‡ǡϐŽ‡™ƒ a way, mourning a part of the industry
They’d jump out to scare him and were Cherokee four-seater light aircraft, and that has passed on. “Willie is one of
met with a roll of Life Savers sweets was an avid motorcyclist. those amazing people in our industry –
every time. In 2007, when David’s son “Willie was a lot of fun. He had a what they learn over a 50-year period is
Kyle passed away from cancer at the age very dry sense of humor. Sometimes I’d priceless,” said Magliocco. “Those guys
of 10, his father, who had been divorced ™‘†‡”ǡǮ•Š‡•‡”‹‘—•‘”‹•Š‡‹††‹‰ǫǯdz have seen almost every problem, made
from Patsy, David’s mother, got very said Pam Heilmann, Michter’s master almost every mistake. They’re just an
involved with the family, remarried his distiller emerita. She was hired from encyclopedic source of knowledge of
ex-wife, and threw himself full-measure Beam, where she was thoroughly Bourbon whiskey and whiskey making.
into fundraising and organising golf versed in distilling, but treasures And Willie was so generous with his
events to support the construction of everything Pratt taught her about other time. He liked educating others, he liked
a health resource centre in Louisville, areas of production and ageing, and bringing them along.”

64 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

Whisky Maturation The Race to 100

WORDS JASON THOMSON

TH E
RACE
TO
100
Recent years have seen the
release of some of the oldest
single malts ever bottled, but
will we ever see a whisky
matured for a century?

66 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

 Whisky Maturation The Race to 100

A
t any given moment, in old Trinitas, breaking records along the
any one of Scotland’s way. However, there are two companies
many bonded that have managed to take single malt
warehouses, a whisky past the age of 70: Gordon & MacPhail
is suddenly becoming and The Macallan. On release, Gordon
ready. That’s not to say it’s becoming & MacPhail’s ‘Generations’ range
whisky; the spirit may have long passed presented whiskies the likes of which
the legal three-year stint in oak it must had never been seen before, including
endure to carry that name. This is a Mortlach 70 Years Old, Glenlivet 70
something very different; something Years Old and a second Mortlach aged
much more subtle. Somewhere in for 75 years. In January 2021, this set of
Scotland right now – yes, right now septuagenarian malts were joined by a
– a whisky is reaching its zenith. Like new addition: a 72-year-old release of
apples on a tree, these casks will only be Glen Grant.
plucked from their racks once the spirit Not to be outdone, The Macallan
within has ripened to its full potential. recently released The Red Collection,
Just like that apple, it can’t be left too a prestigious series of six single malts
Ž‘‰‘”–Šƒ–ϐŽ‡‡–‹‰’‹ƒ…Ž‡‘ˆϐŽƒ˜‘—” ranging from 40 years old to (an almost
will have passed, it will begin to decline unbelievable) 78 years old. In total, the
in quality and, eventually, wither away. Red Collection contains three malts
There is no set formula for predicting that have been matured past the (until
this special moment and no handy recently unheard of) milestone of 70
pocket guide with tips and tricks for years in cask. It begins to make one
maturing each distillery’s spirit. Some wonder how much further whisky can
casks take 10 years to reach their peak, go. If 78 years old can he reached, then
others 20. For an exceptional few, it can 80 is not far away. If that’s possible,
take substantially longer. surely a nonagenarian can be achieved
In recent whisky history we have and, with those mere formalities out
been fortunate enough to see some of of the way, a century of ageing doesn’t
the oldest expressions that have ever seem so out of reach. Though simple
„‡‡…‘‹––‡†–‘‰Žƒ••Ǥ
Ž‡ϐ‹††‹…Šǡ on paper, like almost everything that’s
Glenfarclas, Highland Park and Tamdhu worth doing right, achieving such lofty
have all released whiskies matured for heights requires planning and, as with
50 years or more. The Dalmore turned ƒ›™Š‹•›ǡ–Š‡”‹‰Š–•’‹”‹–„‡‹‰ϐ‹ŽŽ‡†
heads with the release of their 64-year- into an appropriate cask.

... achieving such lofty heights

requires planning and, as with any
ZKLVN\WKHULJKWVSLULWEHLQJ¿OOHG
into an appropriate cask

Issue 174 | Whisky Magazine 67

Whisky Maturation The Race to 100

“We have matured spirit from over ‘distinctly robust and characterful These pages, old, but only after careful monitoring do
100 distilleries and we’ve learned new-make spirit’ is the starting point clockwise from you discover the cask has not ‘behaved’
that certain spirits react differently for every whisky from The Macallan, no top left: Kirsteen in the way you have expected and you
over extended periods of time when matter the age that they are destined to Campbell; Stuart release the whisky as a 23 Years Old
Urquhart; Highly
matched to different casks,” says be bottled at. While the spirit seems to aged whiskies
because it is at its peak.”
Stuart Urquhart, operations director be an important starting point for these from Tamdhu, The Kirsteen tells me that The
at Gordon & MacPhail. “If you are ultra-aged releases, it is in the long, Macallan, Dalmore, Macallan’s casks are the single
intending to mature a spirit for a long slow years of maturation that they’re Highland Park and greatest contributor to the quality of
period of time, then a heavier style of really forged. Gordon & MacPhail. their whiskies and shares a similar
spirit tends to hold the balance better “Casks are like living breathing sentiment to Stuart when it comes to
over the years.” people and each develop their own n the rigorous cask monitoring required
Kirsteen Campbell, master personality,” Stuart tells me. He goes
oes to maintain optimum conditions
whisky maker for The Macallan, on to say that, just like people, some
ome for maturation, a methodology
says something similar and of these personalities will mature re
describes the spirit made at The and develop faster than others,,
Macallan as having a ‘viscous pointing out that maturing caskssks
mouthfeel and fruity aroma,’ need continual monitoring to o
adding weight to the idea ensure they’re progressing
that a heavier spirit might as expected. He explains,
fare better for longer Dz‘‡–‹‡•™Š‡›‘—ϐ‹ŽŽ
maturations. However, a cask you may think it is
she also adds that their destined to be a 40-year--

68 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

 Whisky Maturation The Race to 100

which has certainly played a huge role The Macallan. This is very much
in some of the ultra-aged releases we’ve ”‡ϐŽ‡…–‡†‹–Š‡”‡…‡–‡†‘ŽŽ‡…–‹‘
seen recently. At Macallan, all casks releases, where several of the bottlings
are logged, the data stored and closely involve different cask types in the
watched, meaning that all involved in ϐ‹‹•Š‡†’”‘†—…–ǤŽ–Š‘—‰Š–Š‡•‡
creating these older expressions are methods might work for The Macallan,
keenly aware of the challenges posed by Gordon & MacPhail’s experiences have
older whiskies. led them down a different path: “In
For anyone hoping to mature a general, an American oak Bourbon
whisky for 100 years, there are two barrel is used for maturation of lighter
clear challenges to contend with: styles,” Stuart continues. According
keeping the ABV above 40% and to him, the naturally smaller shape of
ensuring that the angel’s share isn’t the ex-Bourbon barrels (compared to
too high. These might not be problems sherry butts) matures spirit ‘faster’
exclusive to very old whiskies but, if the and thus bigger casks are better for
casks are behaving the way that they longer maturations.
were originally intended to, they might What’s more, while they have had
be the most challenging aspects. success maturing greatly aged whiskies
“If a cask does look like it is in danger using various cask types, one style of
of dropping below 40% ABV, then we cask has performed particularly well:
may choose to monitor it even more ϐ‹”•–Ǧϐ‹ŽŽ•Š‡””›„—––•Ǥ‡‡š’Žƒ‹•–Šƒ–
frequently to ensure its progress,” says it all comes down to ratios for the
Stuart. When asked if there had been longer maturations and the use of a
anything learned from the release of (comparatively large) sherry butt of
these older whiskies, Stuart shared around 500 litres in capacity means less
ƒ‹–‡”‡•–‹‰ϐ‹†‹‰–Šƒ–…ƒ‡ of the spirit is in contact with the oak at
about from research conducted in any given time than with a smaller cask,
collaboration with the Scotch Whisky such as a 200-litre ex-Bourbon barrel,
Research Institute (SWRI). After allowing it to mature at a slower pace.
recording the environmental conditions After speaking with Stuart and
at the Gordon & MacPhail warehouse Kirsteen one thing becomes very clear –
in Elgin, it was discovered that they make sure that whisky is
the interior maintained a bottled when it is ready. That
very consistent temperature might be after 10 years or
– an important factor for the it could be after 78 years; it
steady maturation of whisky. just depends when it’s ripe. As
Stuart explains that this is for if we’ll ever see a 100-year-
achieved in part by the fact their old whisky, Stuart feels it could
warehouse is always full. After happen: “I think it is fair to say
casks are bottled, new casks are that it is theoretically possible
brought in to the site to help to mature a whisky to 100
maintain consistency. It’s years old, if the conditions
small things like this that are perfect and the cask
will allow these older performs in a way that
casks to develop to their you expect it to.” But,
full potential. as we know, the casks
When it comes to don’t always behave and,
cask types, Kirsteen even after 125 years of
tells me that both experience in maturing
American oak and whiskies, G&M is still
European oak are used experimenting, learning,
and work well with the and treading the path in
spirit produced at pursuit of perfection.

Issue 174 | Whisky Magazine 69

Tastings: Latest SCOTLAND AMERICA REST OF WORLD

Adnams
Triple Malt Whisky
Taster biographies ADNAMS

Phoebe Calver ABV: 47.0% Phoebe Christopher

Style: Triple Malt
After studying English and Journalism at university, Region: N/A Nose: Warming and Nose: Hayloft, cumin,
Phoebe has turned her hand to writing for the drinks Price per bottle: resinous; fresh hay that tarragon, sawdust,
industry. She splits her time between the UK and US as Bottling: Distillery melts into a mechanical beeswax, lily pollen, and
editor of American Whisky Magazine and Gin Magazine’s Availability: Core range oily note before cereal sweet cereal notes that
sub-editor. sweetness, cherries and remind me of wheated
ENGLAND
dried fruit notes. Bourbons. A sappy,
Palate: The sweetness violin rosin aroma.
Christopher Coates from the nose Palate: Cereal
A member of the team since 2013 and a keen whisky continues, but becomes sweetness follows
drinker long before that, Christopher was recently overrun with a spicy hit from the nose, joined
appointed as editor of Whisky Magazine. Beyond this, he of cumin. There’s a little by fennel and anise
is head of content and marketing for this title’s parent engine oil that’s almost character, with clove
company and is also chair of judges for the World Whiskies buttery, and maraschino spice. Green apple skin
Awards and the Independent Bottlers Challenge. cherry syrup sweetness comes next, joined
peeking through. by vanilla ice cream,
There’s a slightly green a vegetal note and a
THE PROCESS ÁRUDOQRWH subtle metallic edge.
Finish: Relatively short, Finish: More green
• All samples are blind tasted, with ABV and style the only
leaving that liquorice apple skin and vanilla
information disclosed.
note and leafy veg. ice cream.
• Samples are tasted individually over a two week period. Comments: Some nice Comment: A wonderfully
• Tasters are provided tasting and scoring guidelines complexity here, as well complex nose, and lots
for consistency. as a few surprises along of potential, but not
the way. hitting the spot for me.
• The top scorer is awarded Editor’s Choice.
• Scores of 17+ receive a Recommended award.
7.6 7.1

Arbikie Highland Rye Benromach

1794, 2020 Release 10 Years Old
ARBIKIE HIGHLAND ESTATE GORDON & MACPHAIL

ABV: 48.0% Phoebe Christopher ABV: 43.0% Phoebe Christopher

Style: Single Grain Style: Single Malt
Region: Highland Nose: Chamomile tea, Nose: Chamomile, a Region: Speyside Nose: Peat smoke and Nose: Coal dust and
Price per bottle: oak chips, a slight blend of Ceylon and Price per bottle: coal bunker minerality, fermenting tropical
Bottling: Distillery smokiness. It reminds Lapsang Souchong, Bottling: Distillery balanced out with a fruits. Earthy. Fruity,
Availability: Limited Edition me of the nose of a gin. eucalyptus, rye loaf and Availability: Core range slightly oily hint of old with slight chalkiness;
It’s heavily botanical, hot, sawn oak. Under mechanics garage. like orange and lemon
SCOTLAND SCOTLAND
with heathery goodness. this there’s sweetness Light fruit, like peaches boiled sweets dusted
Palate: Warming and of heather honey, white and cream, before dry with corn starch. Subtle
mouthcoating but not grape juice and a touch hazelnut enters. nutmeg, walnut liqueur
too rich; the warmth of red berry. Palate: A brief touch and hazelnut milk.
softens into a beautiful Palate: Sprightly, with of underripe fruit, then Palate: Silky mouthfeel
combination of heather well-rounded medium juicy apple and pear. and well integrated.
with honey, on top of a body. A pleasant winey The smokiness is still A skewer of apple,
gentle salty meatiness character, with lemon- with us, appearing more pineapple, and white
leaning towards smoked lime, more white grape as a nod to nutmeg and grape charred over
bacon. Cutting through and poached pear. hot coals. Rich fruit cake coals. More walnut
this is a sliver of pear. Applesauce with lots of that brings with it a little liqueur, hazelnut milk,
Finish: Lingers but not cinnamon, more honey chewiness to it. sultana and quince jelly.
for too long; the heat and a subtle nuttiness. Finish: A zing of citrus, a Finish: Gentle tannin,
peters out leaving Finish: Applesauce, dusting of nutmeg that with more of those
warmth and heather. cinnamon and nuts: GULHVRXWWKHÀQLVKZLWK boiled sweets and
Comments: This is right cashew and pistachio. the minerality. charcoal tablets.
up my street, it really Comment: A slightly Comments: There’s a lot Comment: Eating fruit
doesn’t stop surprising youthful edge promises going on but at no point salad in a creaking old
\RXIURPVWDUWWRÀQLVK greatness in the future. is it overwhelming, KRXVHE\DFRDOÀUH

8.1 8.0 8.6 8.5

70 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

Bottle price guide: £11-25 (US$17-40) £26-70 (US$40-110) £71-120 (US$110-190) £121-180 (US$190-280) £181 plus (US$280 plus)

Benromach Benromach
Contrasts: Organic Cask Strength Vintage 2009 Batch 4
GORDON & MACPHAIL GORDON & MACPHAIL

ABV: 46.0% Phoebe Christopher ABV: 57.2% Phoebe Christopher

Style: Single Malt Style: Single Malt
Region: Speyside Nose: Fresh fruit, Nose: Intense orchard Region: Speyside Nose: A slightly Nose: Bramble jam, sour
Price per bottle: pineapple, mango and and tropical fruits. Price per bottle: medicinal waft that plums, black cherries. A
Bottling: Distillery papaya. Leads quickly Peaches in syrup, cloudy Bottling: Distillery WXUQVLQWRVZHHWERQÀUH little funk. Brown bread,
Availability: Core range into homemade vanilla apple juice, and ripe Availability: Core range scraped-out vanilla pods yeastiness, natural
cream/custard, French mango. Walnut and and the sugary crust of yoghurt, engine oil and
SCOTLAND SCOTLAND
toast with a dusting of pistachio, with subtle DFUqPHEU€OHp5LSHÀJ dried mango. Subtle
icing sugar. cereal notes. Freshly and fresh strawberries. citrus, key lime pie and
Palate: Vanilla custard baked white bread and Palate: Deliciously pink grapefruit, with a
notes become toasted butter. Slightly herbal, FRPSOH[7KHÀJ little over-ripe banana.
with time. Smooth, oily sage and menthol. remains, with dark berry Palate: Complex and
mouthfeel with chewy Palate: Those intense compote drizzled over well integrated. Pie
sultanas, strawberries, fruits are back, joined by OLJKWÁXII\PHULQJXH$ pastry (with a burned
more of that cream and delightful creaminess. little salty pork on the edge) and citrus fruits
a hint of marzipan, gritty Pear, white grape and barbeque, pineapple with pomelo, spearmint
nuttiness giving it a kick apricot. A suggestion slices, and a touch of and more yoghurt funk.
that balances the sweet RIVWUDZEHUU\)UXLWÁDQ yeast, like the initial Plenty of dried tropical
and smooth notes. and custard, with a cup kneading of bread. fruits and gentle anise.
Finish: Rounds out with of black tea on the side. Finish: Figs and vanilla Finish: Long and
marzipan that lingers for Finish: Elegant and long, pod creaminess with a complex, with more
just long enough. with plenty of those hint of spice. dried tropical fruits.
Comments: Does summer fruits. Comments: Complex, Comment: Just enough
enough with the time it Comment: The dessert fruity and one that I funk to show real
has to leave a pleasant served at a respectable want to take on a date maturity, but still plenty
impression. garden party. to really get to know. of fruity spirit character.

8.2 8.0 8.5 8.7

Carn Mor
Williamson (Laphroaig) 10 Years Old
MORRISON SCOTCH WHISKY DISTILLERS

ABV: 47.5% Phoebe Christopher

Style: Single Malt
Region: Islay Nose: Initially fresh peat Nose: Wonderful wood
Price per bottle: smoke, with a mossy smoke aromas, with
Bottling: Independent edge that hovers into barbequed pineapple
Availability: Limited Edition medicinal. It moves into and apples, pear drop
ERQÀUHVPRNHWKHQWR DQGÀUVWDLGER[DURPDV
SCOTLAND
barbequed pineapple of Band-Aids and iodine.
slices, peaches in syrup, A bit of crispy bacon.
and green apple skin. Palate: Quite light
Palate:7KHERQÀUH and sprightly, those
smoke remains but medicinal notes are up
doesn’t overpower, front with more oak-
giving way to more of the smoked orchard and
tropical fruit sweetness, tropical fruits. Menthol
syrup-covered peaches and eucalyptus. Plenty
and a prickle of menthol of fresh ‘green’ notes of
warmth too. cucumber water, green
Finish: This lingers, but apple and celery.
not unpleasantly, leaving Finish: The wood smoke
VZHHWERQÀUHDQG fades out, leaving those
menthol freshness. ‘green’ notes and a little
Comments: Both menthol as well.
intense and delicate. Comment: Very spirit
Everything seems to forward, and delicate
play very nicely. once the smoke fades.

7.8 7.9

Issue 174 | Whisky Magazine 71

TASTE | Tastings Latest SCOTLAND AMERICA REST OF WORLD

Cotswolds Distillery Elijah Craig

2015 Odyssey Barley Barrel Proof Batch C920
THE COTSWOLD DISTILLING COMPANY LTD HEAVEN HILL

ABV: 46.0% Phoebe Christopher ABV: 66.4% Phoebe Christopher

Style: Single Malt Style: Bourbon
Region: N/A Nose: A real sweet treat Nose: There’s Dolly Region: Kentucky Nose: An initial note Nose: A whiff of
Price per bottle: here. An initial hit of Mixtures (fondant and Price per bottle: of nail polish remover, DFHWRQHDWÀUVWEXWWKLV
Bottling: Distillery foamy banana sweets, iced jelly sweets) and Bottling: Distillery quickly muted by vanilla dissipates rapidly. Then
Availability: Core range then a tropical fruit tinned pineapple rings, Availability: Core range VSRQJHÀQJHUVFRFRQXW comes brown bread,
bowl, pineapple chunks, then Chantilly cream, macaroons with dark intense cinnamon, clove
ENGLAND AMERICA
dried papaya and peach lemon and orange wine chocolate, then fresh and glace cherry. Bark
slices. This moves into gums, with subtle apple peach, maraschino compost, condensed
a vanilla cream, edging and jasmine tea notes. cherry syrup and hints milk and creamed
onto the sour side. A pleasant lactic note, of rubber and ink. coconut. Iced buns,
Palate: We’re back like natural yoghurt. Palate: Sweet and subtle espresso notes,
with the tropical fruit, Palate: Delicate and syrupy. That maraschino and a touch of rubber.
not as punchy and follows the nose well. syrup is back with rich, Palate: Robust, well
sweet as the nose. The More of those orange, tart dark berry jam. balanced and well
vanilla loses its creamy lemon and apple notes, Clove spice, sweet integrated. Black tea
lusciousness, and in with fondant sweetness cinnamon and vanilla tannins, blackcurrant
place is a little hit of and gentle vanilla. cream. Orange peel and cordial, tart raspberry
grated almonds. Finish: Medium-short, raw dough. jam and a touch of
Finish: On the short very slightly drying, with Finish: Long and sweet bergamot and clove.
side, leaving you with more of those lemon with a kick of that Finish: Long and quite
the aftertaste of a bowl and orange sweets. cinnamon spice. chewy.
full of fruit. Comment: Comments: Very well Comment: The nose is
Comments: It’s an Approachable and balanced and an even very complex, but the
enjoyable sip, but it ‘breakfasty’. Fruit and more enjoyable story palate doesn’t quite
didn’t blow my socks off. yoghurt from the buffet. when water was added. reach the same heights.

7.1 7.3 8.2 8.2

Glen Moray High Coast Whisky

Sauternes Cask Matured Collection 01 - Marieberg
LA MARTINIQUAISE-BARDINET HIGH COAST DISTILLERY

ABV: 59.6% Phoebe Christopher ABV: 51.0% Phoebe Christopher

Style: Single Malt Style: Single Malt
Region: Speyside Nose: Maraschino Nose: A fair bit of nose Region: N/A Nose: Fresh peat, Nose: Menthol,
Price per bottle: cherry, rich mincemeat SULFNOHDWÀUVWTXLWH Price per bottle: almost like damp HXFDO\SWXVDQGÀUVWDLG
Bottling: Distillery with raisins and candied gingery. Then comes Bottling: Distillery embers. Then I’m back kit, some wood smoke
Availability: Limited Edition peel. Hazelnut milk candied peels, raisin, Availability: Limited Edition at school on a summer and rubber bands. Lime
chocolate, shed varnish, boot polish, stewed day, walking into the juice and white sugar.
SCOTLAND SWEDEN
stewed red apples and plums and red apple, woodwork shop. Some Petrichor. Some caramel
crumble topping. old books, cedar wood, sweetness like drizzle notes dancing around
Palate: Mincemeat, clove. A lot of cask here. cake icing, then hot the edges.
cinnamon spice and Palate: Hot and spicy. metal and burned wood. Palate: Medium body.
oily maraschino syrup Plenty of cinnamon Palate: More of that Those medicinal notes
sweetness. The stewed and clove, some more hot metal and toasted are here with more of
apples are followed by red apple, fresh ginger wood, getting even more the lime juice and icing.
grated almonds, almost and a little green bell mechanical. Slightly The smoke is doing
at marzipan sweetness. pepper bitterness. Lots herbal, with some dry most of the work here,
It’s all burned up quite of tannins throughout. A tarragon and vanilla but is joined by green
quickly by the alcohol. suggestion of nuttiness. cream softening it. apple, fennel and a little
Finish: Like eating 90 Finish: Hot and short. Finish: Relatively short vanilla cream.
per cent dark chocolate, The spices and red and simple, with a Finish: Medium-short.
hot and drying. apple notes linger, with mechanical tang. The peat carries this
Comments:'HÀQLWHO\ some bitterness and a Comments: Certainly a GUDPRYHUWKHÀQLVKOLQH
has potential, but as it drying sensation. sipable dram. Although and leaves with green
is there’s too much cask Comment: Quite it showed some signs of apple skin.
and burn to really settle unusual and not so easy complexity, it could be a Comment: Quite coastal
down and enjoy it. to get to grips with. little more dynamic. and relatively fresh.

6.9 6.9 7.2 7.1

72 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

Bottle price guide: £11-25 (US$17-40) £26-70 (US$40-110) £71-120 (US$110-190) £121-180 (US$190-280) £181 plus (US$280 plus)

HYDE Irish Whiskey KOVAL Distillery

#6 President’s Reserve Four Grain Whiskey
HYDE IRISH WHISKEY KOVAL DISTILLERY

ABV: 46.0% Phoebe Christopher ABV: 47.0% Phoebe Christopher

Style: Blended Style: Grain
Region: N/A Nose: This is taking me Nose: Fresh and Region: Chicago, IL Nose: Heavy cereal, Nose: Freshly baked
Price per bottle: back to a trip to Seville, summery. Mown lawns Price per bottle: then a sweet rye spice wholemeal bread,
Bottling: Distillery all warm oranges and and hay, vanilla sponge Bottling: Distillery note. Fresh wholemeal caramel biscuit,
Availability: Limited Edition citric zest. Freshly cut DQGGHOLFDWHHOGHUÁRZHU Availability: Core range bread with a thick layer golden syrup, manuka
grass on a sunny day, a Icing sugar and citrus of honey. A sprinkle of honey, coffee liqueur,
REP. OF IRELAND AMERICA
light vanilla sponge cake oils, lemon and orange. coconut in amongst cinnamon, cumin, white
like angel slices. There’s Delicate oak sawdust. malted milk biscuits, pepper and coriander
also pear drops and a Palate: Quite light. Well caramel sweetness and seed, sage, hickory and
tang that reminds me a balanced and as fresh a dark berry compote. red berries.
little of Ouzo. as the nose. Driven Palate: There’s a Palate: A touch hot and
Palate: A nice oily mostly by the vanilla and delicate oiliness with tingly. Plenty of those
mouthfeel with aniseed citrus notes, with the WKHÀUVWVLSEHIRUHWKH bready notes, now
warmth and more of sweetness dipping into biscuit and wholemeal reminiscent of Danish
that vanilla creaminess. honeyed. Gentle tannin note returns with mixed rye and Soreen malt
There’s still grassiness and delicate green spice. Warm vanilla, like loaf. Cinnamon, nutmeg
and juicy slices of apple. crème caramel, and and ginger.
orange, with icing sugar Finish: Medium-short hints of lavender honey. Finish: Medium length,
on an orange sponge. length. Ends with the Finish: Drying tannins the spices linger as the
Finish: Vanilla icing sweet vanilla and green leave you with nutmeg tannin takes hold.
and some warm white apple notes. Gentle and weighty wholemeal. Comment: The palate
pepper spice. tannins dry things out. Comments: I adore doesn’t quite have the
Comments: This has me Comment: the nose on this and it same complexity as the
longing for a fresh and Approachable and develops nicely on the nose, but the overall
zingy summer picnic. quaffable. palate with character. effect is quite moreish.

7.8 7.6 8.5 8.1

Lambay Whiskey
Small Batch Blend
LAMBY IRISH WHISKEY COMPANY

ABV: 40.0%
Style: Blended
Phoebe Christopher This has me longing
Region: N/A
Price per bottle:
Nose: Toffee apples,
followed by hard-
Nose: Intense vanilla,
pear drop and green for a fresh and
Bottling: Distillery
Availability: Core range
ERLOHGDSSOHÁDYRXUHG
sweets. There’s a hint
apple. Werther’s
Originals and dried zingy summer picnic
of solvent before a rush coconut. Some subtle
REP. OF IRELAND Phoebe Calver
of homemade vanilla toffee popcorn aromas
custard and freshly and a little white grape.
sanded pine shelves. A touch of lemon zest
Palate: Quite a light and some lovely wood
mouthfeel, more of the spice notes of clove and
vanilla custard but it’s cinnamon.
warming with a hint of Palate: Delicate and
spice. Thick almond sweet. Lots more vanilla
slices covered by baked and icing sugar, more
apples and a dusting of green apple.
light brown sugar. Finish: Short and sweet.
Finish: Medium to short, Yet more green apple
with hints of almond and and some hints of leafy
a little leafy greenery. greens too.
Comments: I would Comment: Easy-going,
say it is perhaps a little simple stuff.
cautious and could
do with a little more
character development.

7.0 7.1

Issue 174 | Whisky Magazine 73

TASTE | Tastings Latest SCOTLAND AMERICA REST OF WORLD

Langatun Larceny
10 Years Old, Second Release Barrel Proof Batch C920
LANGATUN DISTILLERY LTD. HEAVEN HILL

ABV: 49.1% Phoebe Christopher ABV: 61.2% Phoebe Christopher

Style: Single Malt Style: Bourbon
Region: N/A Nose: A light chocolate Nose: Molasses, black Region: Kentucky Nose: Newly mowed Nose:$OLWWOHVK\DWÀUVW
Price per bottle: sponge topped with treacle, dark chocolate Price per bottle: grass, combined with but opens up a bit with
Bottling: Distillery stewed raspberries and sauce, well-matured Bottling: Distillery the sweetness of a fruit time. Cedar wood with
Availability: Limited Edition fresh cherries. A punchy ligero cigar tobacco, Availability: Core range and nut bar. Vanilla cinnamon, allspice,
espresso, with vanilla black cherries in pods, stewed apples furniture polish, and
SWEDEN AMERICA
custard slices. There’s syrup, espresso and a dusted with brown black treacle. Black
some slightly resinous farmyard-like note of sugar, wood polish and cherries, plum wine,
tree sap, old toasted silage. A little rubber pencil-rubber shavings. blackcurrant cordial,
wood, warm rubber and and struck match too. Palate: Oily mouthfeel, and sweet pipe tobacco.
a hot bitterness. Palate: Quite chewy like glace cherry syrup Palate: Hot and tingly,
Palate: A rich nutty and well integrated. with the warmth of but mellows out. There’s
oiliness which merges Figs, almonds dipped in cinnamon. A chocolate more cinnamon and
into old garage oil, and dark chocolate, lots of pear tart with almond toffee, milk chocolate,
chocolate Weetabix with caramel chews, coffee frangipane. A hint of brioche, camp coffee
a touch of peppery heat. cake, and sticky toffee vanilla, some more of and blackcurrant wine
Rubber soles and sweet pudding. Some pleasant that hay and marzipan gums. A little coriander
cinnamon spice. Dark UDLVLQDQGGDWHÁDYRXUV grittiness, with lingering seed and cumin, with
chocolate grated over a Finish: Surprisingly toasted oak notes. more allspice.
sticky toffee pudding. short, but leaves a little Finish: Leaves you with Finish: Quite hot, with
Finish: A surprisingly of that caramel note. a hint of oak and apple allspice and dark
VKRUWÀQLVKOHDYLQJD Comment: Lots of peel before it dries up. chocolate there.
little lingering oiliness. promise and some solid Comments: Really Comment: Tasty, but
Comments: Pleasant ÁDYRXUVEXWEOLQNDQG enjoyable, but I wish it needs a touch of water
and very sippable. you’ll miss it. wasn’t quite so hot. to tame the heat.

7.8 7.8 7.8 7.8

Octomore Smögen
11.1 100 Proof Sherry Quarter Casks
BRUICHLADDICH SMÖGEN WHISKY AB

ABV: 59.4% Phoebe Christopher ABV: 57.1% Phoebe Christopher

Style: Single Malt Style: Single Malt
Region: Islay Nose: A touch medicinal, Nose: Pear drop and Region: N/A Nose: Sticky toffee Nose: Intense caramel
Price per bottle: ÀUVW7&3WKHQUXEEHU coal smoke. Slightly Price per bottle: pudding with shed-loads and butterscotch. We’re
Bottling: Distillery soles. Rich blackcurrant ashy, with Greek yoghurt Bottling: Distillery of sauce. New sanded in sticky toffee pudding
Availability: Limited Edition preserves, vanilla and and stewed crab apple. Availability: Limited Edition oak and sweet vanilla territory. There’s scones
cinnamon warmth, fresh Gooseberry preserve fudge. A spoonful of with clotted cream
SCOTLAND SWEDEN
pear and candied peel, and shortbread. sweet berry jam, grated and raspberry and
WKHQÁRUDOZD[LQHVV Palate: Plenty more nutmeg and some blackcurrant compote,
Palate: Unexpectedly cloudy apple juice and spiced orange warmth. nutmeg, with some
sweet before the wood pear drop, with wood Palate: There’s a little creaminess and a subtle
smoke takes over, smoke and delicate wood smoke in there, wood smoke.
paired with cinnamon medicinal notes. There’s and more sticky toffee Palate: A little hot.
spice and more of the a pleasant vanilla cream sweetness which is There’s more of that
rubber soles. Floral element with sweet burned off relatively caramel, with some red
waxiness becomes old malty notes and some quickly, leaving the apple and a little wood
leather and pine with a sponge cake. winey toffee penny spice. A little water
light orange zing. Finish: Medium length. mouthfeel and a handful sweetens things further
Finish: Light wood A little hot, but with a of mixed red berry fruit. and tames the heat.
smoke and pine on a solid smoked vanilla Finish: Short, hot and Finish: Medium length.
PHGLXPOHQJWKÀQLVK character to it. prickly. The smokiness Stewed red apple (skin
Comments: It takes you Comment: A solid, saves it for me. on), caramel and subtle
on a smooth journey spirit-forward whisky. Comments: Not a great wood smoke lingers.
through Islay, with just What it lacks in deal of complexity here, Comment: It feels like
enough complexity to complexity it makes up but I felt there was some it needs a little bit more
keep it interesting. for in all-round quality. potential on the nose. time in the warehouse.

8.0 8.0 6.9 6.9

74 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

Bottle price guide: £11-25 (US$17-40) £26-70 (US$40-110) £71-120 (US$110-190) £121-180 (US$190-280) £181 plus (US$280 plus)

Smögen Untamed
8 Years Old Batch 2 Cask Strength Irish Whiskey
SMÖGEN WHISKY AB PROTÉGÉ INTERNATIONAL GROUP

ABV: 59.8% Phoebe Christopher ABV: 63.8% Phoebe Christopher

Style: Single Malt Style: Blended
Region: N/A Nose: It’s quite heavily Nose: 6OLJKWO\ÁRUDOZLWK Region: N/A Nose: Burning up the Nose: Paper straws,
Price per bottle: perfumed with lemon ripe pear, lemon sherbet Price per bottle: QRVHDWÀUVWEHIRUHD clementine and lime
Bottling: Distillery zest, pink wafers and and rice paper. A touch Bottling: Distillery ORYHO\ÁRUDOODYHQGHU juice. Vanilla custard,
Availability: Limited Edition quince jelly. A little of lime zest, along with Availability: Limited Edition honey note is drizzled all beeswax and a very
honey sweetness a pleasant but gentle over some light madeira subtle Parmesan note,
SWEDEN REP. OF IRELAND
appears before a hit wood smoke, menthol cake. Mandarin orange with avocado. Some
of log burner, chopped and tomato stem. With and old-school waxy lip apple and pear tart too.
walnuts, wood chippings time, some workshop balm. A savoury note is Palate: Quite robust.
and freshly cut grass. aromas emerge: there too, like pasta and Fondant icing and
Palate: The oiliness of sawdust, Danish oil and a little plasticine. IUXLW\ÁDYRXUHGFDQG\
machinery with mixed a delicate varnish note. Palate: Tutti Frutti pink grapefruit and a
spice. There’s a slight Palate: Eucalyptus, sweetness, corn syrup pleasant creaminess.
salinity to it before light some pear drop, a little and more of that waxy With time, a delicate
caramel, peppery spice more of that lime citrus lip balm. The plasticine anise note emerges
and seaweed appears. edge. Somewhat herbal note is more apparent. A along with some very
Citrus peel cuts through, with a touch of brine, warmed-up cheese twist gentle tannins.
with another chug from like a not-so-dirty, dry appears before some Finish: The anise builds
the log burner. vermouth-heavy Martini. lavender honey, which somewhat and the
Finish: Finishes up on Finish: Very gentle wood staves off the heat. melon note persists to a
the woody side with a smoke, more pear drop Finish: The waxiness ORQJVOLJKWO\KRWÀQLVK
hint of almond. and green apple skin. remains with a creamy Comment: A real grower.
Comments: It certainly Comment: Somewhat hint of fennel. Seems simple and
has potential and a coastal and some really Comments: Complex VSLULWRXVDWÀUVWEXW
whole lot of character. easy drinking. and interesting. really opens up nicely.

7.6 7.4 8.0 8.0

Wemyss Malts
The Hive
WEMYSS FAMILY SPIRITS LTD.

ABV: 46.0% Phoebe Christopher

Style: Blended
Region: Speyside Nose: Light and Nose: Delicate and
Price per bottle: freshly baked madeira slightly grassy, with
Bottling: Distillery cake, which is quickly HOGHUÁRZHUFRUGLDODQG
Availability: Core range covered by a resinous white grape juice. Lots
note. There’s a sweet of blossom honey and
SCOTLAND
earthiness to this, like under this there’s some
the grassy banks behind coconut ice, vanilla soft-
the beach. scoop ice cream and
Palate: Still light and just a whiff of amaretto.
fresh with a little Palate: Delicate and
bright peach, creamy accessible. The white
cold vanilla and some grape juice and vanilla
almond snap biscuits. A ice cream are back, this
vanilla sponge with light time with wafer cone.
HOGHUÁRZHUIURVWLQJDQG Plenty more blossom
some heathery honey. honey, plus a suggestion
Finish: Medium to short of oak spice with a little
with a warming note of green apple.
heathery vanilla cream. Finish: Medium-short
Comments: It is a length and mostly
pleasing sip. I’d be characterised by vanilla
interested to test it out and green apple.
in a couple of cocktails Comment: Very fresh
in the warmer months. and summery.

7.3 7.3

Issue 174 | Whisky Magazine 75

To advertise call +44 (0) 1603 633 808 or email [email protected] – Directory

110a High Street, Aberlour AB38 9NX

[email protected]
hop.com
www.thespeysidewhisky.com
m
01340 871260

The Speyside Whisky Shop is situated in the

heart of Speyside and opened in October 2018.
8.

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78 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

 The world’s premier whisky tasting show

COMING TO
O A CIT
TY NEAR YOU SOON!
With each country offering different dates when large public
gatherings can take place, the best way to keep up to date with
whether Whisky Live is “Live” or “At Home” is to visit whiskylive.com.

Here are the cities in which you will find

Whisky Live over the next 12 months:

Adelaide | Athens | Bangkok | Beirut

Brisbane | Buenos Aires | Canberra | Cape Town

Changsha | Chengdu | Chicago | Dublin | Durban

Hong Kong | London | Manila | Melbourne | Moscow

New York | Paris | Perth | Pretoria | San Francisco

Sandton, Johannesburg | Singapore | Sydney | Taipei

Tel Aviv | The Hague | Thessaloniki | Warsaw | Xiamen

FIND OUT MORE ONLINE AT

WWW.WHISK KYLIV
VE.C
COM
This Travelling Life Billy Walker

WORDS JOE BATES was quite easy to become interested

in science, partly driven by my own

THE MASTER BLENDER curiosity. I went to Glasgow University

to get a degree in chemistry. Doing
a degree in Glasgow was a positive
In this issue, Joe speaks with Billy Walker experience; the campus was relatively
uncluttered. There were 3,000 or 4,000
about science, travel and a lifetime in whisky people on campus tops. Today, it’s in
the order of 20,000. It’s a more intense

B
experience for young people today.
illy Walker, master distiller ƒ†
”ƒŠƒ–‡˜‡•‘ǡƒ†–Š‡ϐ‹”•–
at the GlenAllachie core range from The GlenAllachie was ǣŠ‡™ƒ•–Š‡ϐ‹”•––‹‡›‘—
Distillery, is one of most launched in July 2018. Throughout his thought a career in Scotch whisky
famous names in the Scotch career, Billy has travelled the globe to might be for you?
whisky business and has spread the good word of Scotch. BW: I think there were coordinates
had a glittering career stretching back everywhere. I was brought up in
nearly half a century. After a stint as Joe Bates (JB): Our theme this issue Dumbarton, which was, and still is,
a research chemist, he moved into is science and whisky. How good a big whisky town. It was the home
whisky production and blending at were you at science at school and did of Hiram Walker, which produced
various big-name whisky companies. you ever think you would follow a Ballantine’s; there was a bottling plant
In 2004, Billy led the acquisition of career in which science would play there and a grain distillery. They also
BenRiach Distillery, establishing the an important role? had Inverleven and Lomond as Lowland
BenRiach Distillery Company and Billy Walker (BW): I don’t think that single malts. J&B had a bottling plant…
later redeveloping the offerings from really crystallised until I was in the –Š‡”‡™ƒ•ƒ„‹‰™Š‹•›‹ϐŽ—‡…‡‹
GlenDronach and Glenglassaugh Scottish education system in the third the town. I suppose part of your DNA
distilleries. In April 2016, it was year. I’m not even saying by that point ™ƒ•‹ϐŽ—‡…‡†„›–Š‡‡˜‹”‘‡–
announced that Brown-Forman would I was totally focused on science, but of the town. It was almost inevitable
purchase the company. In October 2017, chemistry was an attractive subject by that I would at some point eventually
Billy Walker acquired The GlenAllachie then. I had a good teacher who made ‡†—’‹™Š‹•›Ǥ—–™Š‡ϐ‹”•–Ž‡ˆ–
Distillery along with Trisha Savage the learning experience exciting. It university, I worked as a pharmaceutical

80 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

 This Travelling Life Billy Walker

research chemist for about four and a

half years, which was a very intriguing It was almost inevitable that I
and interesting experience too. It was
certainly a different world from making
would at some point eventually
and blending whisky. They both had
their attractions.
end up in whisky
JB: Do you think the role of science
in whisky making is sometimes
undervalued given the industry’s be happening all through the process is BW: There are a lot of good examples,
focus on history, heritage, craft and very, very helpful when it comes to the but Tokyo and Osaka are fantastic cities.
the art of blending? more personality-driven blending side. You can feel secure walking around
BW: I don’t think it’s undervalued. It them. I remember telling a friend that
doesn’t get the exposure it deserves. JB: What’s the most memorable dram –Š‡ϐ‹”•––‹‡™‡––‘‘›‘ǡ‹–™ƒ•
The science of fermentation, distilling that you’ve had on your travels? such a secure and safe city that if you
and subsequently maturation is from a BW: If you’re in Myanmar, you’re going dropped your pocket book with money
chemistry perspective good knowledge to end up drinking the big brands that and cards in it with the hotel address in
to have. If you ask me is blending a are available. In Singapore and Shanghai it, it would be delivered to the hotel.
These pages:
science or an art, I would tend to err on –Š‡…Š‘‹…‡‹•–‡””‹ϐ‹…Ǥ‘›‘ǡ–Š‡
Master distiller
the side of art, but to have knowledge Billy Walker; The choice is remarkable. It’s memorable JB: Can you tell us an anecdote about
of the science and to understand the GlenAllachie not so much for the brand, but it’s something strange, unusual or funny
expectation of what you know should Distillery. about getting back to the hotel having that happened to you during one of
had an exhausting day, and having your travels?
the opportunity to choose a dram, BW: The one I recall with least pleasure
relax and have a chat with somebody is when I was in Manila many, many
who hopefully you’ve been talking to years ago. There was a kind of military
throughout the day. activity. I am not going to say it was
a coup, but there was some kind of
ǣ‘—•ƒ›–Šƒ–›‘—•‘‡–‹‡•ϐ‹† unrest. I was detained in the hotel in
travel stressful. Do you have any Manila for three days. Did I feel unsafe?
travel tips to pass along? No, I didn’t, but it wasn’t something
BW: –Š‹‹–ǯ•–Š‡”‡ϐŽ‡…–‹‘–Šƒ––”ƒ˜‡Ž I had factored into my travel plans.
today is somehow easier than it was. I also arrived at Moscow with a visa
Actually, it’s not easier. Travelling 20, that had been issued for the following
30, or 40 years ago was a much more day’s arrival. There was an interesting
pleasurable experience, but it was also exchange with the border patrol people!
a more limited experience. Today, the
experience of taking yourself through JB: When we can travel more freely,
the airport is stressful. where would you most like to go?
BW: If I had the opportunity, I’d go to
JB: If you could share a dram with Cape Town. If I couldn’t get to Cape
someone at the airport while waiting Town, I’d go to Vancouver. I have been
ˆ‘”ƒ†‡Žƒ›‡†ϐŽ‹‰Š–ǡ™Š‘™‘—Ž†‹–„‡ǫ to both places and would love to go
BW: It’s not easy to answer that again. They are both fantastic cities.
question. Anybody who would have
a listening ear. I have been held up at JB: If you were shipwrecked on a
airports on numerous occasions. That desert island, what bottle of whisky
period of delay is not a great experience ™‘—Ž†›‘—Ž‹‡–‘ϐ‹†™ƒ•Š‡†—’‘
and anybody who wanted to talk to me the shore?
†—”‹‰–Šƒ––‹‡™‘—Ž†ϐ‹†‡‹‘– BW: Well, obviously, either the
the most engaging of moods! GlenAllachie 21 Years Old or 15 Years
JB: If you had 24 hours to explore a Old. If either of those rolled up, I would
city, where would it be? have a smile on my face.

Issue 174 | Whisky Magazine 81

Desert Island Drams Julieann Fernandez

CASK AWAY
In each edition we ask one of the industry’s
great and good which drams they would
take with them to our desert island

J
ulieann Fernandez took an balancing that WHISKY #4
W
what may be described as out, and it’s got thee Le
Ledaig
an unconventional route es,
range of cask types, Sinclair Series,
Sinc
into the whisky industry, between Bourbon and Rioja C
Cask Finish
coming from a background sherry, making it really The Sinclai
Sinclair Series is such
in forensics. It started with a passion for rounded and balanced. a vibrant colour, and it’s smoky and
whisky that was sparked while she was warming – a really lovely dram, and
studying at university. WHISKY #2 again one that I’ve been involved in
She spent her university placement Deanston from the start. Non-age statements can
year with Chivas Brothers, which was 18 Years Old sometimes get a bit of a bad name, and
really where her interest started: Deanston 18 Years Old is so true to the for me the Ledaig Sinclair Series is so
undertaking a combination of analytic style and character of Deanston, and special. It has spent time in Rioja casks,
chemistry and organoleptic work, it whenever I host tastings and events and we monitored it closely to make
became clear she had a good nose for and we taste the 18, it’s always so •—”‡–Šƒ––Š‡ϐ‹‹•Š‹‰–‹‡™ƒ•”‹‰Š–Ǥ
™Š‹•›ƒ•™‡ŽŽƒ•–Š‡’”ƒ…–‹…ƒŽǡ•…‹‡–‹ϐ‹… popular and well received with such
understanding needed to support it. great feedback, and I think that makes WHISKY #4
After graduating, Julieann was drawn me enjoy it even more. I think having a Black Bottle
back to whisky and joined the Scotch Deanston 18 would also really make me Original
Whisky Research Institute, working reminisce about the Deanston Distillery, Blends are so special to me in my line
in its labs before returning to Chivas because it’s so close to my heart – I just of work. We put so much work into our
Brothers. After gaining experience in think it’s a fabulous distillery. single malts, but sometimes the blends
everything from working with raw are forgotten about a little bit. They
materials to the art of maturation, she WHISKY #3 are so complex; you’re talking upwards
‘˜‡†–‘‹•–‡ŽŽ
”‘—’‹ʹͲͲ͹ǡϐ‹”•– Tobermory of 15 different components going into
working as a blender and then being 12 Years Old these, so getting that right every time
promoted to master blender. Tobermory 12 Years Old was one is a lot of work. For me, Black Bottle is
‘ˆ–Š‡ϐ‹”•–•‹‰Ž‡ƒŽ–•™‘”‡†‘ an absolutely phenomenal liquid: it’s
WHISKY #1 when I moved to Distell. The distillery beautifully refreshing, and it’s got a
Bunnahabhain was closed for a couple of years quite lovely smokiness coming through right
Stiùireadair recently for upgrades, and I think at the back. It’s a lovely dram, and one
With it being an island distillery, I that while it was closed, that’s when that I’m very proud to work on.
–Š‹‹–ǯ•“—‹–‡ϐ‹––‹‰–‘Šƒ˜‡ƒ†”ƒ‘ˆ we really worked on the 12 Years
Bunnahabhain on a desert island! And Old. Being part of that gives me so A BRIEF FINAL LUXURY
out of the range, I picked Stiùireadair many fond memories, and again so For me, it would need to be a pillow
because it offers so much – it’s rich many fond memories of the distillery with a photo of my little boy on it. I
and sweet but still light and refreshing, in its beautiful setting. Knowing don’t deal well with lack of sleep, and
and I think that’s part and parcel of it that Tobermory made it through especially if I’ve had a few drams the
being a non-age statement. It’s got older its chequered past, I think it would best thing is to try and sleep it off…
whiskies in there, bringing the depth probably help me believe I could and, of course, a photo of him would
and maturity, and younger whiskies survive my stay on the desert island! †‡ϐ‹‹–‡Ž›‡‡’‡‰‘‹‰Ǥ

82 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

The winners revealed...
 AWARDS CONTENTS
ICONS OF WHISKY 86 POT STILL .............................................................. 108 Mars Marsmalt Le Papillon Kujaku-cho
Icons of Whisky Introduction .................................86 Redbreast 21 Years Old Omar Peated Cask Strength - Virgin Oak
Icons of Whisky India ..............................................87 #01150139
Icons of Whisky Global ...........................................88 RYE ................................................................ 110, 111 Rauchkofel Single Cask No.24
Shelter Point Single Cask Peat Finish
Archie Rose Rye Malt
HALL OF FAME 97 Spey Spirit of Speyside Whisky Festival 2020
Bespoken Spirits Rye
Inductee 73 ..............................................................97 Sullivans Cove American Oak Old & Rare Single
Copper House Rye Malt
Cask HH0108
Kilbeggan Small Batch Rye
WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 97 Tamdhu Iain Whitecross Single Cask
Lot No. 40 Dark Oak
The Tyrconnell 16 Years Old Oloroso & Moscatel
World Whiskies Awards Introduction...................97 Redemption Plantation Rum Cask Finish
Cask Finish
Stauning Whisky Malted Rye
TENNESSEE .............................................................. 99 Westland Single Cask #5410
The Westfalian Single Rye - Cask 93
George Dickel Bottled in Bond SINGLE MALT ............................ 119, 120, 121, 122
Uncle Nearest 1856 Premium Aged Whiskey BLENDED MALT ........................................... 112, 113
Aberlour A’Bunadh
Adelaide Hills 78 Degrees
SINGLE BARREL BOURBON ............................... 100 The Akkeshi Kanro 2020
Bellevoye Noir
Archie Rose Single Malt
Rebel Yell Single Barrel 10 Years Old Chivas Regal Ultis
Bimber Oloroso Cask Batch #1
Tumblin’ Dice Single Barrel - Barrel Proof Engelbrekt Virgin American Oak
Bladnoch 14 Years Old
The Irishman Founder’s Reserve
Bunnahabhain 12 Years Old
BOURBON .............................................................. 102 Kurayoshi 12 Years Old
Bunnahabhain 18 Years Old
Hirsch The Horizon Kurayoshi 18 Years Old
Bunnahabhain 25 Years Old
WL Weller CYPB Nikka Session
Bunnahabhain Cruach Mhona
Virginia-Highland Whisky Port Cask Finished
Deanston Virgin Oak
CANADIAN BLENDED .......................................... 103 Waterproof Blended Malt
Dunville’s PX 12 Years Old
Bainbridge Battle Point Organic Writers’ Tears Copper Pot
Elsburn Wayfare - The Cask Strength
Royal Canadian Small Batch The GlenAllachie 10 Years Old Batch 4
BLENDED LIMITED RELEASE ............................. 114
The Wild North Rye 5 Years Old Glen Keith 21 Years Old
Ichiro’s Malt & Grain Limited Edition 2021 Glen Scotia Campbeltown Harbour
WHEAT ................................................................... 103 J.P. Wiser’s 22 Years Old Cask Strength Port Cask Hellyers Road 15 Years Old Slightly Peated
291 E Colorado Whiskey Batch #7 Finish Hellyers Road Henry’s Legacy Freestone Cove
Teeling Whiskey Stiggins’ Fancy Pineapple Rum High Coast 63 Batch 3
CORN ...................................................................... 104 Cask High Coast Cinco
Ironroot Republic Hubris Highland Park Triskelion
BLENDED ...................................................... 115, 116 Ichiro’s Malt Chichibu The First Ten
FLAVOURED........................................................... 104 291 E Colorado Whiskey Batch #8 Ledaig 10 Years Old
Breckenridge PX Sherry Cask Finish Ledaig 18 Years Old
Bird Dog Peanut Butter Flavored Whiskey
Compass Box Whisky Rogues’ Banquet Loch Lomond Inchmurrin 12 Years Old
SAP56 Maple Whisky
Dewar’s 15 Years Old Kavalan Podium
Dewar’s Double Double 21 Years Old Kingsbarns Dream to Dram
GRAIN............................................................ 105, 106
The Legendary Silkie Original M&H Pomegranate Cask
Bainbridge Yama Japanese Mizunara Cask Lidl Queen Margot 8 Years Old Macaloney’s Caledonian Glenloy
Compass Box Whisky Hedonism Mars Asagi Madara Mosgaard Pedro Ximénez Cask
Fuji Single Grain 30 Years Old Mister Sam Tribute Omar Peated (Duty-Free)
Glendalough Double Barrel Nikka From the Barrel Paul John PX Select Cask
Golani Black 5 Years Old The One Sherry Cask Finished Roe & Co. Cask Strength 2020 Edition
Native Grain Weeping Grass Pearse Whiskey 7 Years Old Distillers Choice Rosebank 30 Years Old
Nikka Coffey Malt Royal Brackla 18 Years Old Sherry Cask Finish
Shelter Point Smoke Point Batch SINGLE CASK SINGLE MALT...................... 117, 118 Royal Brackla 21 Years Old Sherry Cask Finish
Teeling Whiskey Single Grain Adams Peated Ex-Port Cask Shelter Point Artisanal
The Cardrona Growing Wings Teeling Whiskey 28 Years Old
NEW MAKE & YOUNG SPIRIT.............................. 107
Chief’s Son 900 Standard Single Cask 126 Teeling Whiskey Blackpitts
291 Fresh Colorado Whiskey Dunville’s 12 Years Old PX Cask Tomintoul 16 Years Old
Boann New Make Pot Still Spirit Elsburn Single Sherry Octave V15-12 The Westfalian Cask 99
Macaloney’s Caledonian Caledonian Poitín Ichiro’s Malt For Chichibu Whisk(e)y Matsuri Westland Garryana Edition 5
Triple-Distilled Potstill Kavalan Solist Oloroso Sherry Cask Yeun Elez Jobic

Issue 174 | Whisky Magazine 85

Icons of Whisky 2021 Introduction

TITANS OF INDUSTRY
Naming our Icons of Whisky for 2021

A
nother year has passed and named as our Global Icons of Whisky Though all of our categories are
that means we have come to for 2021. All that follow on these pages equally prestigious, it feels appropriate
the end of our latest Icons have already been successful in their to highlight that competition in our
journey. Whether it be a breathtaking respective local round of Icons awards, Sustainable Distillery category has
advertising campaign, an awe-inspiring ƒ†‹–™ƒ•™‹–Š‰”‡ƒ–†‹ˆϐ‹…—Ž–›–Šƒ–‘—” „‡…‘‡’ƒ”–‹…—Žƒ”Ž›ϐ‹‡”…‡Ǥ‘’‡ˆ—ŽŽ›
distillery visitor experience, jaw- panel had to choose between the best this trend will continue as whisky
dropping bartending prowess or pure and brightest from America, Australia, makers respond to the climate
distilling excellence, these awards seek Ireland, India, Scotland and our Rest crisis, and we will continue to watch
to highlight the very best people and of World category. It’s undeniable that developments here closely.
places in the world of whisky. every name which follows on these As always, we have been inspired by
It is our great pleasure to bestow pages is a titan of industry, and without all of our winners and it is apparent
these individuals, businesses and, these people, places and the work done that all are united by a passion for
in some instances, the work they’ve to promote them, the world of whisky whisk(e)y and a shared commitment to
created with the honour of being would not be the same. ‡š…‡ŽŽ‡…‡‹–Š‡‹””‡•’‡…–‹˜‡ϐ‹‡Ž†•Ǥ

For full shortlists and regional winners, please visit:

www.iconsofwhisky.com

The Icons of Whisky awards

are sponsored by

86 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

 Icons of Whisky 2021 India

STARS OF INDIA
Celebrating the best of Bharata

Distiller of the year Personality of the year Best West India Bar
Sponsored by Amorim Top Series Sponsored by NVL Davidoff of the year
RADICO KHAITAN NIKITA RAMCHANDANI – MARRIOTT Sponsored by Bowmore Art of Time
HOTELS LUNA NUDO – ST. REGIS
Brand Innovator
of the year Bar of the year Bar Group of the year
Sponsored by Wade Ceramics Sponsored by Bowmore Art of Time Sponsored by Bowmore Art of Time
BEAM SUNTORY ATRIUM – THE TAJ LANDSEND MARRIOTT HOTELS
Highly Commended
Peacock Bar, ITC Kohenur
Visitor Attraction Food and Beverage
Safari Lounge, The Lodhi
of the year Manager of the year
Harbour Bar, The Taj Mahal Palace Sponsored by NVL Davidoff
PAUL JOHN DISTILLERY CENTRE
Amrit Sagar, Lake Palace AMIT SANGWAN – THE FAIRMONT
The Polo Bar, The Oberoi
Master Distiller/
Blender of the year
Bombay High, ITC Maratha Chef of the year
Sponsored by Wade Ceramics Eau Bar, The Oberoi ZAFAR ALI – THE LEELA PALACE
MR. MEYYAPPAN – AMRUT DISTILLERIES Aasmana, The Ritz Carlton
Spice Traders, W Hotel Multiple Outlets
Sidecar
American Whiskey Retailer of the year
Brand Ambassador Sponsored by Amrut Nilgiris Gin

of the year Best East India Bar TONIQUE – HYDERABAD

SIDHARTHA WADIA – BROWN-FORMAN of the year

Sponsored by Bowmore Art of Time Single Outlet Retailer
THE BRASS ROOM – ITC ROYAL BENGAL of the year
Scotch Whisky Brand
LIVING LIQUIDZ T2
Ambassador of the year Best North India Bar
IPSITA DAS – MOËT HENNESSY
of the year Buyer of the year
Sponsored by Bowmore Art of Time Sponsored by NVL Davidoff
World Whisky Brand THE LIBRARY – THE LEELA PALACE, NEW ASHISH SETH – THE TAJ HOTELS
Ambassador of the year DELHI
NEERAJ KUMAR – BEAM SUNTORY
Best South India Bar
Communicator of the year
of the year Sponsored by Bowmore Art of Time

SUNILA DUGGAL – ST. REGIS THE LIBRARY – THE LEELA PALACE,

BENGALURU
Highly Commended
Sagar Malviya, The Economic Times

Issue 174 | Whisky Magazine 87

 Icons of Whisky 2021 Global

Multiple Outlets Retailer Single Outlet Retailer

of the year of the year
Sponsored by The Glenturret

BINNY’S BEVERAGE DEPOT CELTIC WHISKEY SHOP

America Ireland
Binny’s Beverage Depot has The Celtic Whiskey Shop
been a Chicago family- is located in the heart of
owned business since 1948, Dublin’s city centre and is
providing the Midwest’s Ireland’s premier whiskey
most prominent wine, spirits, VKRS,WÀUVWRSHQHGLQ-XQH
and beer superstore. Across 2003 and since that time has
Illinois the retailer has 44 not only built strong ties with
locations, in which you are producers of Irish whiskey,
provided with a selection of but has also listened to the
whiskies that has been carefully crafted to ensure consumers are feedback of consumers to ensure its offering is constantly on the
enjoying the best array of whiskies from around the world. cutting edge.

Shortlist Shortlist
Australia – Dan Murphy’s America – Bayway Liquors
India – Tonique, Hyderabad Australia – World of Whisky
Ireland – Carry Out Off Licence India – Living Liquids, Mumbai
Rest of World – The Whisky Exchange Rest of World – WhiskyBrother
Scotland – Good Spirits Company Scotland – Carnegie Whisky Cellars

Supermarket Own Brand Supermarket

of the year of the year

TESCO LIDL
Scotland Rest of World
As the third largest retailer Lidl’s ever-growing range of
in the world when measured own-brand whiskies is going
by gross revenues, with from strength to strength and
VKRSVLQÀYHFRXQWULHVDFURVV SHUIHFWO\UHÁHFWVWKHDUUD\
Europe, Tesco has curated an of whiskies enjoyed across
impressively varied selection the UK today. Year-on-year
of whiskies on its roster that Lidl has proven to be a
span the breadth of the globe, supermarket that takes on
but with particular attention board the feedback of its
being paid to Scotch whisky. From Islay to Speyside, and Ireland consumers, while continuing to offer attractively priced and great-
all the way over to Tennessee, there is something to please whisky quality whiskies.
lovers and those new to the spirit alike.

Shortlist Shortlist
Ireland – Dunnes Stores Ireland – Aldi Ireland
Rest of World – Aldi Scotland – Lidl

88 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

 Icons of Whisky 2021 Global

Online Retailer Travel Retailer

of the year of the year

THE WHISKY EXCHANGE AER RIANTA

Rest of World INTERNATIONAL (ARI)
THE LOOP
The Whisky Exchange was
DUBLIN AIRPORT - THE IRISH
founded in 1999 as a family
WHISKEY COLLECTION
business and has gone
Ireland
from strength to strength in
becoming the internet’s top Aer Rianta stands as one of
specialist retailer of whisky the largest players in global
and spirits. Over the years travel retail, owning and
TWE has stuck to one simple managing duty free and duty
philosophy, to never rest on paid retail outlets across
its laurels. The retailer constantly strives to discover new products (XURSHWKH0LGGOH(DVW$VLD3DFLÀFDQGWKH$PHULFDV7KH/RRS
with genuine heritage and high quality, while also regularly at Dublin Airport was created following the collation of customer
improving its own functionality for customers. insights to much acclaim. The Irish Whiskey Collection was
created to provide a sophisticated Irish product offering for The
/RRSDQGLVQRZDQGLQWHJUDOSDUWRILWVVKRSSLQJH[SHULHQFH

Shortlist
America – Mash & Grape
Australia – Casa de Vinos
Ireland – Irishmalts.com
Scotland²5REHUW*UDKDP/WG

Buyer Bar Group

of the year of the year

BRETT PONTONI THE CHAWKE GROUP

BINNY’S BEVERAGE DEPOT Ireland
America
The Chawke Group is
Brett Pontoni of Binny’s composed of nine well-
Beverage Depot oversees the established Irish gastro
company’s impressive spirits pubs that offer visitors a
portfolio. His role requires truly traditional Irish pub
that not only can he anticipate experience. With growing
trends, but also start them. success, the brand is ensuring
A prime example of Brett’s it keeps the consumer
success in this area was experience at the core of
putting small-batch spirits on the shelves at Binny’s, which he did each and every decision it is making, with each venue providing
before the craft scene had taken off in the US, proving to be a real DUHÁHFWLRQRIWKHVXUURXQGLQJFRPPXQLW\PDNLQJVXUHQRWZR
advocate for the scene. venues are the same.

Shortlist Shortlist
Australia – Brad Wright, singlemalt.com.au America – Seven Grand
Ireland – Tracey Jordan, Aer Rianta International (ARI) Australia – The Speakeasy Group
Rest of World – Dawn Davies, The Whisky Exchange India – Marriott Hotels
Scotland – Sarah Sturgeon, Tesco Rest of World – Milroy’s of Soho
Scotland – Whisky Bars of Scotland

Issue 174 | Whisky Magazine 89

 Icons of Whisky 2021 Global

Advertising Agency Design Agency

of the year of the year
Sponsored by McLaren Packaging

REPUBLIC OF MEDIA NUDE BRAND CREATION

Scotland Rest of World
Republic of Media was born Located in the heart of
in the digital age, working London, Nude Brand Creation
with clients to provide media is all about the power of
effectiveness and create a simplicity, providing stripped-
transformative process for back ideas for packaging. The
them to follow. The brand has team’s approach to design
RIÀFHVLQERWK0DQFKHVWHU is not set in stone, working
and Edinburgh, where they on each project intuitively,
build relationships with clients meaning the brand continues
and follow values of progressiveness, openness, positivity, unity to be curious and open-minded to new ideas and ways of creating.
and agility. The brand has a roster of clients that are both big and small,
providing expertise in brand strategy and brand design.

Shortlist Shortlist
Australia – Buffet Digital Australia – Zendoke Design
Ireland – Third Mind Design
Scotland – threebrand

PR Agency Communicator
of the year of the year

STORY PR MARK GILLESPIE

Rest of World WHISKYCAST
America
London-based Story PR is
a specialist public relations During his career Mark
company that focuses on Gillespie has curated
the food and drink sectors, an extensive amount of
working with household experience in broadcast and
brands and providing PR online journalism. In 2005
strategies for them. Its sizable he created WhiskyCast as a
team is recognised as the space in which to serve lovers
heart of its success, with of whisky with news and up-to-
each member bringing their own unique skill set to the table date information on the spirit they love. Over the years this space
and ensuring the brand is able to work with some of the most has grown to create a worldwide community, providing webcasts,
innovative brands out there. audio and HD video podcasts, extensive social media output and
regular coverage on WhiskyCast.com.

Shortlist Shortlist
America – The Brand Guild Australia – David Ligoff, Alchemist Events
Australia – Agent99 PR India – Sunila Duggal, St. Regis
Ireland – Alice PR & Events Ireland – Barry Chandler, Stories & Sips
Rest of World – Billy Abbott, The Whisky Exchange
Scotland – Moa Nilsson, Swedish Whisky Girl

90 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

 Icons of Whisky 2021 Global

Bar Hotel Bar

of the year of the year

ATRIUM SCOTCH
THE TAJ LANDSEND, MUMBAI AT THE BALMORAL HOTEL
India Scotland
The Atrium Bar & Lounge is Located in Edinburgh,
located at The Taj Landsend SCOTCH at The Balmoral
in Mumbai and provides a Hotel provides the perfect
JUHDWVHWWLQJIRUÀUVWWLPH setting to spend an evening
whisky drinkers and whisky in a world-class whisky bar.
DÀFLRQDGRVDOLNH7KHPHQX It has more than 500 unique
itself offers one of the largest Scotch whiskies available, all
documented selections located within the bar’s oak-
of whiskies, as well as iconic cocktails, all to be enjoyed while panelled whisky cabinet, which provides you with a characterful
watching the evening unfold over Bandra’s skyline. experience that is almost like being on the inside of a cask. With
whiskies available from the Highlands, Lowlands, Islands, Islay
and Speyside, its collection is one of the largest in the city.

Shortlist Shortlist
America – The Flatiron Room America – Little Rituals
Australia – Elysian Whisky Bar Australia – Grain Bar, Four Seasons Hotel Sydney
Ireland – The Palace Bar Ireland – Camden Court Hotel
Scotland – Bon Accord Rest of World – Lobster Bar and Grill, Island Shangri-La,
Hong Kong

Bar Manager Bartender

of the year of the year

PADRAIC RAFTER TOMO MATSUSHITA

PARIS TEXAS BAR COPPER & OAK
Ireland America
Padraic Rafter is general Copper & Oak is based in New
manager of the multi-award- York and is notable for many
winning Paris Texas Bar. A things, including some of the
prominent member of the top spirit sommeliers in the
Kilkenny Whiskey Guild, city. One of those people is
he is heavily involved in all Tomo Matsushita, who has
things whiskey, both Irish and earned a reputation for his
international. Padraic has impressively comprehensive
helped to curate an extensive knowledge of whisky, including styles, distillery information,
whisk(e)y list that includes a wide range of Irish whiskeys, barrel wood choices and grains. He not only provides guests with
American whiskey and Scotch, along with excellent knowledge to excellent whisky, but also with an education in the story behind
impart on the collection. the spirit.

Shortlist Shortlist
America – Billie Keithley, Breckenridge Distillery Australia – Daniel Gregory, Evolve Spirits Bar
Australia – Garrett Kinder, Helvetica Ireland – Chris Hennessy, The Dylan Whiskey Bar
Scotland – Andy Gemmell, The Gate

Issue 174 | Whisky Magazine 91

 Icons of Whisky 2021 Global

Irish Whiskey Ambassador Scotch Whisky Ambassador

of the year of the year

SABINE SHEEHAN NICOLA RISKE

LAMBAY IRISH WHISKEY THE MACALLAN
COMPANY Rest of World
Ireland
During her time as The
Lambay Irish Whiskey Macallan’s regional brand
Company’s Sabine Sheehan’s ambassador and brand
role as senior brand manager education manager, Nicola
and global brand ambassador has become adept at adapting
is varied and complex, made to the ever-changing whisky
even more so by the changing market. The main focus of her
landscape of whisky, and the role is to inspire consumers,
world, in the last year. The brand launched in 2018 and having while also educating them on the way in which The Macallan
SUHYLRXVO\ZRUNHGIRU-DPHVRQIRUQLQH\HDUV6DELQHKDVHQVXUHG crafts its whiskies. During the pandemic, Nicola’s average time
that its story is introduced to the masses, showcasing the brand’s spent travelling has been reduced to nothing. However, this has
unique blending expertise and distilling knowledge. PHDQWÀQGLQJIUHVKZD\VWRHGXFDWHDQGHQJDJHWKHPDUNHWLQWKH
wonders of whisky, something that she has skilfully crafted.

Shortlist Shortlist
Australia – Andy Ratcliff, Bushmills America – Gemma Cole, Aberlour
Rest of World – Naomi Laurie, Bresser & Timmer (Teeling Australia²-DPHV0DFUDHAilsa Bay
Whiskey) India – Ipsita Das, Moët Hennessy India
Ireland – Paul Tuohy, Moët Hennessy
Scotland – Scott Adamson, Tomatin Distillery

American Whiskey Ambassador World Whisky Ambassador

of the year of the year

MICHAEL COWMAN KAITLYN TSAI

HI-SPIRITS (BUFFALO TRACE) KAVALAN DISTILLERY
Ireland Rest of World
Michael Cowman’s career Kaitlyn Tsai is the brand
began as an Irish naval ambassador and global PR
RIÀFHUZKLFKLVQRWWKHW\SLFDO RIÀFHUIRU7DLZDQ·V.DYDODQ
starting point for those in Distillery. Her work at the
spirits. However, after some distillery is varied, meaning
years he turned his hand to that one day could be spent
begin working as a spirits with sales teams, another
salesman where his skills with the blending team,
KDYHUHDOO\WDNHQÁLJKW0LFKDHOVWDUWHGKLVZKLVNH\FDUHHUZLWK and another travelling to promote Kavalan’s liquid and share
Irish Distillers in South Africa and Ireland, where he was able the brand story. She has made the smooth transition from in-
to specialise in its luxury portfolio. Following on from this role, person tastings to online during the pandemic, and continues to
Michael moved on to Hi-Spirits Ireland, where he now works as showcase Kavalan whisky through the medium of virtual tastings
part of the global Sazerac family. and discussions around the world.

Shortlist Shortlist
America²-RKQ)RVWHUSmooth Ambler America – Allison Park, Brenne Whisky
Australia – Thalita Alves, Brown-Forman Australia India – Neeraj Kumar, Beam Suntory India
India – Sidhartha Wadia, Brown-Forman India

92 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

 Icons of Whisky 2021 Global

Visitor Attraction Visitor Attraction Manager

of the year of the year
Sponsored by Christies Sponsored by Hrastnik 1860

KAVALAN DISTILLERY STUART HENDRY

Rest of World GLENGOYNE DISTILLERY
Scotland
Kavalan Distillery, based in
Yilan County, Taiwan, has Over the years Stuart Hendry
been a pioneering force in has curated an exceptional
the art of single malt whisky skill for communicating about
creation there since 2005. whisky, while showcasing the
The whisky is created using spirit and the place it has
the mineral-rich meltwaters of created to the masses.
Snow Mountain and is aged in His work at Glengoyne
dramatic conditions, including Distillery is about more than
high heat and humidity, as well as dramatic sea and mountain just the whisky, with the liquid having been enjoyed in his family
EUHH]HVZKLFKPDNH7DLZDQ·VÀUVWZKLVN\GLVWLOOHU\DPXVWVHH for many years – a fact that ensures passion in everything he
destination for all lovers of the spirit. does for the brand.

Shortlist Shortlist
America – Sazerac House America – Miguel Solorzano, Sazerac House
Australia – Starward Ireland – Woody Kane, Royal Oak Distillery
India²3DXO-RKQ'LVWLOOHU\&HQWUH*RD Rest of World – Simon Dicks, James Sedgwick Distillery
Ireland – Teeling Whiskey Distillery
Scotland – Holyrood Distillery

Brand Innovator Campaign Innovator

of the year of the year
Sponsored by WestRock

WATERFORD DISTILLERY WESTLAND DISTILLERY

Ireland America
Waterford Distillery is located Seattle-based Westland
on the banks of the River Suir, Distillery is innovating in
housed in a state-of-the-art the American single malt
facility that was originally category by exploring
purchased by spirits producer the breadth of possibility
Diageo in 2004. The building within its home landscape.
was converted for distilling in Westland’s Outpost range is
2015 and now provides the DQH[SORUDWLRQRIWKH3DFLÀF
space for Waterford to create Northwest’s provenance,
LWV,ULVKZKLVNH\7KHÀUVWZKLVNH\UXQRFFXUUHGLQZLWKLWV looking into the unknown possibilities that have not yet been
ÀUVWUHOHDVHRIVW&XYpH3LOJULPDJHDUULYLQJRQWKHPDUNHWLQ pursued in American single malt. The new collection includes
$SULO7KHGLVWLOOHU\XVHVWKHÀQHVWTXDOLW\UDZPDWHULDOVDQG three expressions that delve into the intricacies of wood, grain
pioneering methods to create its spirit. DQGODQG*DUU\DQD&ROHUHDQG6ROXP

Shortlist Shortlist
America – Old Charter Oak Ireland – Kinahan’s Whiskey, The Kasc Project
Australia – Archie Rose Distilling Co. Scotland – Ardbeg, The launch of Wee Beastie
India – Beam Suntory, New Delhi
Rest of World – Stauning Whisky
Scotland – Ardnamurchan Distillery

Issue 174 | Whisky Magazine 93

 Icons of Whisky 2021 Global

Sustainable Distillery
of the year
Sponsored by The Scotch Bonnet

NC’NEAN DISTILLERY
Scotland
1F·QHDQLV6FRWODQG·VÀUVWSHUFHQWRUJDQLFDQGVXVWDLQDEOH
whisky distillery, based in Drimmin in the Scottish Highlands.
The distillery was started by Annabel Thomas with a mission to
create a whisky that could exist harmoniously with our planet. The
distillery now uses everything from renewable energy, to recycled
leftover grain (which goes to feed the cows roaming the local
landscape), to make this happen. The distillery’s maiden whisky
UHOHDVHVROGRXWLQMXVWKRXUVDVZHOODVEUHDNLQJUHFRUGV
ZLWKWKHÀUVWERWWOHIURPDQHZGLVWLOOHU\WREHVROGDWDXFWLRQIRUD
casual £41,004.

Shortlist
America – FEW Spirits
Australia – Lord Byron Distillery
Ireland – Glendalough Distillery
Rest of World – Mackmyra

Distillery Manager
of the year
Sponsored by /DUNÀUH

NICOLE AUSTIN
GEORGE DICKEL
American
After graduating from Manhattan College with a major in chemical
HQJLQHHULQJLQ1LFROHWRRNDZLQGLQJURDGWRKHUÀUVW
industry position as master blender for Kings County Distillery in
2010. After many successful years there, in 2018 Nicole Austin
was appointed as general manager and distiller at Cascade
Hollow Distilling Co., home of George Dickel Tennessee whiskey.
Her work over the past decade has been a testament to the
fact that, with drive and determination, individuals from varied
backgrounds can and will succeed in the industry.

Shortlist
Australia²-DQH2YHUHHPOvereem Distillery
Ireland – Lisa Ryan, Royal Oak Distillery
Rest of World – Roger Melander, High Coast Whisky
Scotland – Stewart Walker, Fettercairn Distillery

94 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

 Icons of Whisky 2021 Global

Craft Producer
of the year

IRONROOT REPUBLIC DISTILLING

America
,QEURWKHUV5REHUWDQG-RQDWKDQ/LNDULVKGHFLGHGWRWDNH
DEROGVWHS5REHUWZDVÀQLVKLQJKLVODZGHJUHHZKLOH-RQDWKDQ
was working as a biomedical engineer when they decided it was
time to pursue distilling. Following several years of interning within
the industry the pair set down roots in Denison, Texas. Ironroot
Republic opened in 2014, managed by their mother, Marcia, and
now the team mash, ferment, distil, barrel-age and bottle on site.
The spirits are created using heirloom and non-GMO corn from
ORFDOIDUPVFDSWXULQJWKHÁDYRXURIQRUWK7H[DV

Shortlist
Australia – Furneaux Distillery Co.
Ireland – Dingle Distillery
Rest of World – Milk & Honey Distillery
Scotland – Arbikie Distillery

Master Distiller / Blender

of the year
Sponsored by Casknolia

BOB DALGARNO
THE GLENTURRET DISTILLERY
Scotland
Bob Dalgarno has had a life that is truly interwoven with the
whisky industry. His father worked at the GlenAllachie Distillery
and Bob followed in his footsteps, starting at The Macallan in
1984 as a warehouseman. After learning the skills of each aspect
of the whisky-making process, Bob went on to spend 30 years
DW7KH0DFDOODQ'LVWLOOHU\LQ6SH\VLGHH[FHSWLRQDOO\IXOÀOOLQJWKH
role of whisky maker before stepping into his new position as
Glenturret’s master blender.

Shortlist
America – Victoria Eady Butler, Uncle Nearest
Australia – Patrick Maguire, Sullivans Cove
India – Mr. Meyyappan, Amrut Distilleries
Ireland – Noel Sweeney, The Powerscourt Distillery
Rest of World – Dhavall Gandhi, The Lakes Distillery

Issue 174 | Whisky Magazine 95

 Icons of Whisky 2021 Global

Distiller
of the year
Sponsored by Glencairn Crystal Studio

BROWN-FORMAN
America
Kentucky-based Brown-Forman sells its brands in more than 170
countries worldwide, as well as being one of the largest American-
owned spirits and wine producers. The company was founded
in 1870 by George Garvin Brown, and Old Forester Kentucky
6WUDLJKW%RXUERQ:KLVNH\KLVRULJLQDOEUDQGZDV$PHULFD·VÀUVW
ERWWOHG%RXUERQ,QWKHSUHVHQWGD\%URZQ)RUPDQLVLQLWVÀIWK
generation of Brown family members, employing more than 4,700
people worldwide with more than 25 brands in its portfolio of
wines and spirits.

Shortlist
Australia – Lark Distillery
India – Radico Khaitan
Ireland – Waterford Distillery
Rest of World – Mackmyra
Scotland – Whyte & Mackay

96 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

 Whisky Magazine Hall of Fame

THE HIGHEST HONOUR

Naming the latest inductee to our Hall of Fame

S
o far in 2021 we have inducted Symington, managing director of The Whisky Magazine Hall of Fame
Fred Noe, master distiller at Signatory Vintage and Edradour is sponsored by
Jim Beam; Andy Watts, head of Distillery. Like them, our latest inductee
whisky intrinsic excellence at Distell has made a lasting contribution to the
Group; Billy Walker, master distiller world of whisky and without him the
at The GlenAllachie; and Andrew Irish category would not be the same.

W
ith a career spanning 20 years Dave Quinn and Billy Leighton. Since
in marketing and innovation then, Brendan’s vision for reawakening
for the Irish Distillers’ the single pot still category has fuelled
portfolio of Irish whiskeys, Brendan major launches such as Powers John’s
Buckley’s approach to brand building has Lane, Midleton Barry Crockett Legacy,
played a central role in the renaissance of Redbreast Lustau Edition, Redbreast 27
”‹•Š™Š‹•‡›Ǥƒ˜‹‰™‘”‡†‹ƒ—„‡” Years Old and the rebirth of the historic
of marketing roles in Irish Distillers Yellow Spot, Red Spot and Blue Spot
and currently holding the position of whiskeys, shaping global consumer
international marketing director, Brendan whisk(e)y trends and sparking wider
is a self-described ‘whiskey fan who ‹–‡”‡•–‹–Š‹•ϐŽƒ˜‘—”ˆ—Ž•–›Ž‡Ǥ
happens to work in marketing’. In innovation, he is responsible for
With Jameson at the forefront of the the birth of the Method and Madness
resurgence of Irish whiskey, Brendan has brand, a ground-breaking family
„‡‡ƒ‘‰•–ƒ—„‡”‘ˆ‹ϐŽ—‡–‹ƒŽ of whiskeys and gin that push the
ϐ‹‰—”‡•™Š‘ǡ‘˜‡”–Š‡’ƒ•––™‘†‡…ƒ†‡•ǡ boundaries of Irish spirits, both in liquid
have built Jameson into one of the world’s experimentation and creative branding.
Inductee No. 73 leading spirits brands. Brendan also Further strengthening the position of the
Brendan Buckley played a leading role in reigniting the world’s best-loved Irish whiskey, Brendan
single pot still Irish whiskey category has successfully expanded the Jameson
International marketing when, in 2011, he spearheaded the revival family to attract a broader audience with
director, Irish Distillers of this uniquely Irish whiskey style in innovative expressions such as Jameson
conjunction with his distilling colleagues Triple Triple, Jameson Cold Brew and The
at Midleton Distillery: Barry Crockett, Caskmates Series.

To view the full list of Hall of Fame inductees, please visit:

www.whiskymaghalloffame.wordpress.com

Issue 174 | Whisky Magazine 97

 WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2021
HEADLINE SPONSOR – GLENCAIRN CRYSTAL

THE WORLD'S BEST

Announcing our results for 2021

T
hough the past year hasn't Similarly, the World Whiskies for this competition. Of particular note
played out quite like any of us Awards team, headed by awards was the surge of entries from nations
imagined, the global whisky director Anita Ujszaszi, rose to the that have come on the whisky scene in
industry has responded with strength. challenge and this year all of our more recent history, with Australian
In spite of the human and logistical judging was conducted remotely, producers in particular making their
challenges presented by the global with samples of each and every spirit presence felt both in terms of entries
pandemic, after some interruptions, entered sent to the judges for blind and awards success.
most distillers continued with both assessment. Roundtable discussions However, though our panel is
spirit production and the release of via video call were scheduled for key •’‡…‹ϐ‹…ƒŽŽ›•‡Ž‡…–‡†–‘ƒ……‘—–ˆ‘”
new expressions. judging dates and the process led by varying global palates, it is products
Of course, special events to celebrate table captains, just as would be the case from traditional whisky-distilling
releases were mostly unable to go at the usual in-person tastings. nations that have tended to take the top
ahead in person, but virtual events Indicative of the overall resilience of titles in most categories.
picked up the slack and ensured that the category, more than 1,000 whiskies Overall, we have seen a particularly
these special occasions didn't go by from around the globe were entered high standard of entries across the
unmarked or unremembered. this year – a record-breaking number board and applaud all of our winners.

For full results of all winning whiskies, please visit:

www.worldwhiskiesawards.com

The World Whiskies Awards are sponsored by

98 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

 WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2021
Tennessee

WORLD’S BEST TENNESSEE

Best Tennessee
$JH6WDWHPHQW

George Dickel
Bottled in Bond 50%

+RQH\DSSHDUVÀUVWXSRQWKHQRVHIROORZHGE\ULSH
GDUNIUXLWDQGOLJKWVSLFH2QWKHSDODWHLWJHWVYHU\VZHHW
ZLWKDFUHDP\WH[WXUHWKHQFRFRDVSLFHEHFRPHVYHU\
SURQRXQFHGEXWZHOOLQWHJUDWHG7KHÀQLVKLVRIPHGLXP
OHQJWKDQGLVURXQGHGRXWZLWKWKHKRQH\IUHVKQHVV

SHORTLIST
1R$JH6WDWHPHQW
Uncle Nearest
1856 Premium Aged Whiskey

Issue 174 | Whisky Magazine 99

 WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2021
Single Barrel Bourbon

WORLD’S BEST SINGLE BARREL BOURBON

Best Non-Kentucky

Tumblin’ Dice
Single Barrel - Barrel Proof 56%

7KHQRVHLVKXJHDQGÀOOHGZLWKGDUNEURZQVXJDURDN
DQGFRPSOH[IUXLWFDNHDOLWWOHOLNHZDONLQJLQWRDEDN-
HU\2QWKHSDODWHLW·VFKHZ\ZLWKFDQGLHGIUXLWVZHHW-
QHVVSHFDQSLHDQGURDVWHGSOXP7KHÀQLVKUHDOO\GH-
OLYHUVZLWKQLFHVSLFHGQRWHVDQGORWVRIFRPSOH[LW\

Best Kentucky
Rebel Yell
Single Barrel 10 Years Old 50%
1RVHRIWURSLFDOIUXLWRDNYDQLOODEXUQW
VXJDUDQGVSLFHFDNH3DODWHLVULSHWURSLFDO
IUXLWFKHZ\VRIWDQGFDUDPHOFDQG\/RQJ
ÀQLVK&RPSOH[DQGZHOOEDODQFHG

100 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

 8 ISSUES
FOR ONLY
£28.99

The World’s No.1 whisky magazine delivered to your phone, tablet and computer
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 WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2021
Bourbon

WORLD’S BEST BOURBON

Best Kentucky

WL Weller
CYPB 

7KHQRVHLVSXQFK\ZLWKFRPSOH[ÁRUDODQGIUXLW\QRWHV7KH
SDODWHIROORZVRQZLWKULFKIUXLWVLQFOXGLQJÀJVDQGUDLVLQVSDLUHG
ZLWKVXEWOHYDQLOODZDUPWK7KHUH·VVRPHEROGVSLFHWKDWLVPHW
ZLWKEURZQVXJDURQWKHÀQLVK,W·VGHOLFLRXVDQGZHOOEDODQFHG

Best Non-Kentucky
Hirsch
The Horizon 46%
5LFKGDUNKRQH\IURPWKHRII7KHQ
RQWKHSDODWHWKHUHLVOLTXRULFHVDJH
PDUVKPDOORZEXWWHUWRIIHHDQGEURZQ
VXJDU$OLWWOHELWRIJUDVVLQHVVWRRZLWK
MXVWDKLQWRIFLQQDPRQDQGFORYH1XWW\
OLNHPDU]LSDQ&OHDQDQGEDODQFHG

102 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

 WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2021
Canadian Blended / Wheat

WORLD’S BEST CANADIAN BLENDED

Canada
1R$JH6WDWHPHQW

Royal Canadian
Small Batch 40%

$YLEUDQWQRVHIXOORIDSSOHYDQLOODDQGÁRUDOQRWHVZLWKKLQWVRI
VSLFH7KHSDODWHEHFRPHVVZHHWZLWKKRWFLQQDPRQWKHQJUDLQ\
SHSSHU\VSLFHDOOVLWWLQJXQGHUQRWHVRIZKLWHIUXLWVOLNHSHDU
DQGO\FKHH7KHÀQLVKLVRIPHGLXPOHQJWKZLWKKLQWVRIPDSOH

SHORTLIST
12 Years & Under
The Wild North
Rye 5 Years Old 43%

WORLD’S BEST WHEAT

Best American
12 Years & Under

291
E Colorado Whiskey Batch #7 

)LUVWXSRQWKHQRVHWKHUHLVDORWRIKHDWZKLFKFRROVWRVPRRWK
YDQLOODDQGFKHZ\FDUDPHOZLWKVRPHZKLWHIUXLWQRWHV0RYLQJ
RQWRWKHSDODWHWKHUHDUHPRUHOLJKWZKLWHIUXLWQRWHVD\RXWKIXO
JUDLQ\QRWHDQGVRPHYLVFRXVVZHHWFDUDPHOWROHDGLQWRWKHÀQLVK

SHORTLIST
1R$JH6WDWHPHQW
Bainbridge
Battle Point Organic 43%

Issue 174 | Whisky Magazine 103

 WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2021
Corn / Flavoured – Sponsored by Christie's

WORLD’S BEST CORN

Best American Corn
12 Years & Under

Ironroot Republic
Hubris 

/RYHO\ULFKKRQH\RQWRDVWZLWKDGDVKRIPDUPDODGH
RQWKHQRVH7KHSDODWHJLYHVRIIUDWKHUDORWRIKHDW
EHIRUHEULQJLQJRXWVZHHWGDUNIUXLWVDQGDOLWWOHPRUH
WKLFNFXWPDUPDODGHDQGDZDUPLQJKRQH\ÀQLVK

WORLD’S BEST FLAVOURED Best Canadian

Best American
SAP56
Bird Dog Maple Whisky 

Peanut Butter /LJKWPDSOHDQGSLQHQRWHVÀOOWKHQRVH

ZLWKVRPHYDQLOODDQGFDUDPHO6XSHU

Flavored Whiskey 40%

FUHDP\DQGVPRRWKZLWKDWRXFKRI
VPRNHRQWKHSDODWH%XWWHUVFRWFKDQG
PDSOHHQVXUHWKHUH·VDVKRUWFUHDP\
$OORXWIUHVKURDVWHGSHDQXWVRQWKHQRVHZLWK QRWHOHIWRQWKHWRQJXH
FDUDPHODQGEXWWHU\YDQLOOD2QWKHSDODWHWKHUH ZLWKDOLWWOHFLQQDPRQ
LVDSHDQXWEXWWHUDQGMHOO\VDQGZLFKPRUH 6LPSOHDQGHDV\GULQNLQJ
URDVWHGSHDQXWVDQGDVZHHWELVFXLWÀQLVK ZLWKRXWEHLQJWRRVZHHW

104 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

 WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2021
Grain – 6SRQVRUHGE\/DUN¿UH

WORLD’S BEST GRAIN

Best Australian
1R$JH6WDWHPHQW

Native Grain
Weeping Grass 

'DUNFKRFRODWHURDVWHGEDUOH\RUDQJHSHHOFDUDPHO
PLON\FRIIHHDQGPRODVVHV7KHUH·VDOVRVRPHYDQLOOD
0HGLXPGU\DQGZHOOEDODQFHG%ODVWRIRDNDQG
%RXUERQFDVNEXUQWEDQDQDVDQGVDOWHGFDUDPHO

Issue 174 | Whisky Magazine 105

 WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2021
Grain – 6SRQVRUHGE\/DUN¿UH

Best American Best Canadian Best Irish

1R$JH6WDWHPHQW 12 Years & Under 12 Years & Under

Bainbridge Shelter Point Glendalough

Yama Japanese Distillery Double Barrel 42%
Mizunara Cask 45% Smoke Point Batch 2 50% 6RPHOLJKWFLWUXVQRWHVSLQHDSSOHIUHVK
DOPRQGVZKLWHEUHDG
%HDXWLIXOÁRUDOKRQH\DQGZDOQXW 3HDWHGPDOWZLWKEHDXWLIXO KD\YDQLOODKD]HOQXWV
QRVH0RYHVWRDFRPSOH[SDODWHZLWK EDUOH\QRWHVDQGVXJDUV DQGKRQH\LW·VVZHHWDQG
KRQH\VXFNOHSHDUDQGZDUPIUXLW7KH DFFRPSDQLHGE\OLJKWZKLWH EDODQFHG&KDPRPLOHWHD
ORQJÀQLVKLVSHUIHFWO\EDODQFHG IUXLWRQWKHQRVH7KHUH·V ZLWKDWRXFKRIFUDQEHUU\
DFRPSOH[VPRNHWKDW·V +D]HOQXWVWRÀQLVK
ZDUPZLWKDORWRIGHSWK
RQWKHSDODWHLW·VTXLWH SHORTLIST
FUHDP\ZLWKVDOWHG 1R$JH6WDWHPHQW
FDUDPHO7KHSHDWLV
Teeling Whiskey
UHDOO\QLFHO\LQWHJUDWHG
Single Grain 46%
DQGWKHFUHDP\HGJH
FRDWVWKHPRXWK
OHDGLQJWRDORQJ
VPRN\YDQLOODÀQLVK

Best Israeli Best Japanese Best Scottish

12 Years & Under <HDUV 2YHU 1R$JH6WDWHPHQW

Golani Fuji Compass Box

Black 5 Years Old  Single Grain 30 Years Old 46% Hedonism 43%
/RDGVRIDOFRKRODQGZRRG5HDOO\ 7KHQRVHLVOLJKWZLWKMXLF\DSSOHDQG 1RWHVRIEDUOH\EUHDG
SDUDIÀQ\ZLWKDPDU]LSDQYLEHZKLFK ULSHSHUVLPPRQ0RYLQJRQ FLQQDPRQFDFDRWRIIHHDQG
EHFRPHVPRUHIRUFHIXOZLWKZDWHU%HUULHV WRWKHSDODWHWKLQJVDUH FDUDPHO7KHUHDUHDOVRVRPH
UHGDSSOHVFRIIHHVKHUU\QRWHVEODFN YHU\DURPDWLFFRPSOH[ JDUGHQIUXLWVOLNHSHDUVDQG
FKHUULHVGDWHVGU\IUXLWV DQGZLWKKLQWVRI'DUMHHOLQJ DSSOHV,W·VZHOOEDODQFHG
)LQLVKIDGHVRXWVORZO\ WHDRQWKHÀQLVK DQGHDV\WRGULQN6ZHHWEXW
DOLWWOHVWHUQWRZDUGVWKHHQG
SHORTLIST
1R$JH6WDWHPHQW
Nikka
Coffey Malt 45%

106 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

 WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2021
New Make & Young Spirit

WORLD’S BEST NEW MAKE & YOUNG SPIRIT

Best Irish

Boann
New Make Pot Still Spirit 63%

/LNHDVXPPHU·VGD\VSHQWEDNLQJZLWKLFLQJVXJDUGXVWHG
HYHU\ZKHUHWKHQEDNHGDSSOHVDQGIUHVKFXWJUDVVSHDUVDQG
ZKLWHSHSSHU7KHSDODWHNHHSVWKHIUHVKQRWHZLWKKD\VZHHW-
QHVVVWUDZEHUU\SDVWU\DQGUHGFXUUDQWVGUL]]OHGLQOHPRQ]HVW

Left:,PDJHLVDERWWOHUHSUHVHQWDWLRQDQGQRWWKHRIÀFLDOERWWOH

Best Canadian Best American

Macaloney’s 291
Caledonian Fresh Colorado Whiskey 45%

Caledonian Poitín Triple- $QRVHIXOORIRUDQJHVZKLWHSHSSHU

DWRXFKRIKHDWDQGVRPH
Distilled Potstill 46% FLQQDPRQ7KHSDODWHKDVD
$JRUJHRXVO\VRIWÁRUDOQRVHEHFRPLQJ YHU\JRRGEDODQFHWKDWIROORZV
KHUEDFHRXVDQGWKHQ WKHQRVH,W
VIXOOLQWKHPLG
ZHOFRPLQJWKHDGGLWLRQ SDODWHZLWKDVKRUWÀQLVK
RIVRPHVWHZHGSOXPV
7KHSDODWHLVVZHHWDQG
PDOW\EULQJLQJRXWVWRQH
IUXLWDQGDVZHHWDQG
VSLF\SHSSHU\EXUQ
7KHKHUEDOQRWHLV
EDFNRQWKHÀQLVK
ZKHUHWKHDOFRKRO
LVYHU\QRWLFHDEOH

Issue 174 | Whisky Magazine 107

 WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2021
Pot Still – Sponsored by UPS

WORLD’S BEST POT STILL

Best Irish
<HDUV 2YHU

Redbreast
21 Years Old 46%

6XOWDQDVDQGKHUEQRWHVRQWKHQRVHDQGDQROGRDNIXUQLWXUH
DURPD*UDSHIUXLWDQGUDLVLQVRQWKHSDODWHZLWKDUHDOO\ORQJ
ÀQLVK²JRRGXVHRIVKHUU\FDVNV&RPSOH[DQGIXOOFKRFRODWH\DQG
OHDWKHU\/RQJDIWHUWDVWHZLWKWKHIHHOLQJRIGULQNLQJDKRWFKRFRODWH

108 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

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 WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2021
Rye

WORLD’S BEST RYE

Best Canadian
No Age Statement

Lot No. 40
Dark Oak 48%

8SÀUVWRQWKHQRVHWKHUHLVDVSLF\WDQJRIJURXQGLQJU\HIROORZHG
E\GULHGIUXLWWRIIHHDQGFLWUXV]HVWRIRUDQJH7KHSDODWHNHHSVXS
ZLWKWKHVSLFHRIWKHQRVHEULQJLQJDKLQWRISHSSHU\VSLFHMDVPLQH
QRWHVDQGYDQLOODFUHDP<RX·UHOHIWZLWKPRUHVSLFHRQWKHÀQLVK

110 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

 WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2021
Rye

Best American Best Australian Best Danish

12 Years & Under 12 Years & Under 12 Years & Under

Redemption Archie Rose Stauning Whisky

Rum Cask Finish 47% Rye Malt 46% Malted Rye 60.1%
Some delightful cherry to kick off, Oatcakes, dried fruit, banana, peach, Roasted barley, Christmas cookies, tea,
then wood, toast and vanilla. It's got citrus, peanuts, honey and cinnamon. white pepper, blackcurrants,
a pleasant warming nose, followed by Sweet, with cherry brandy and a hint of sherry. Wood
YDQLOODDQGVSLF\RDN7KHÀQLVKLVORQJ and lemonade notes, and and sweet wine, caramel
and complex, balanced a touch of persimmon. and burnt sugar. Intensely
and quite enjoyable. /RQJZDUPÀQLVK fruity, like distilled lime Opal
Fruits mixed with camphor.
SHORTLIST
No Age Statement
Bespoken Spirits
Rye 50%

Best English Best German Best Irish

12 Years & Under 12 Years & Under No Age Statement

Copper House The Westfalian Kilbeggan

Rye Malt 47% Single Rye - Cask 93 52.6% Small Batch Rye 43%
Baked apples, roasted nuts, old Spanish Honey, vanilla, dark chocolate, cinnamon, The nose brings pleasing depth and
wood, cigar leaves and sultanas. Some orange peel, and a hint of coffee. Well sweetness, with chalky notes, Opal Fruits
notes of hay and honey. A touch of balanced. Decently made with plenty of and milk chocolate. Then on the palate
banana liqueur. Long and fruitiness and acidity, with there is a lovely burst of
prickly fade, and some graphite and charcoal citrus fruit, with juicy orange
ZDUPWKLQWKHÀQLVK mineral depth. Water and more smooth milk
brings out the grain notes. chocolate that leads to a
IUXLW\DQGVKRUWÀQLVK

Issue 174 | Whisky Magazine 111

 WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2021
Blended Malt – Sponsored by Blue Box Design

WORLD’S BEST BLENDED MALT

Best Scotch
No Age Statement

Chivas Regal
Ultis 

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ÀOO$PHULFDQRDNLQÁXHQFH2UFKDUGIUXLWVYDQLOODDQGRUDQJH
PDUPDODGHQRWHV6RPHVSLFHDKLQWRIJLQJHUDQGDORQJÀQLVK

SHORTLIST
<HDUV 8QGHU
Waterproof
Blended Malt 45.8%

<HDUV 2YHU
The Octave
Beldorney 1997 53.4%

Best American Best Australian Best French

No Age Statement No Age Statement No Age Statement

Virginia-Highland Adelaide Hills Bellevoye

Whisky 78 Degrees 44% Noir 43%

Port Cask Finished  7KHQRVHRSHQVRXWIUHVKDQGIUXLW\ 2QWKHQRVHWKHUHLVOLJKWVPRNHZLWK

ZLWKVRPHDSSOHDQGURVHIROORZHGE\ MDVPLQHJUDSHIUXLWSHHODQGVRPHUHDOO\
$QLQWHUHVWLQJQRVHRIVSLF\ PDU]LSDQSLQHUHVLQDQGRDN\VSLFH7KH EULJKWVZHHWQHVV7KHSDODWH
FDUDPHODQGULFKGDUNIUXLWV SDODWHLVYHU\IRFXVHGZLWKD FRQWLQXHVRQZLWKWKH
PDOWKRQH\DQGRUFKDUG WRXFKRIRUDQJHDSSOHDQG VXEWOHVPRNHFRPLQJRXW
IUXLWVPDNLQJDQDSSHDUDQFH ELJVSLFHQRWHVWKDWOHDG IURPWKHFKDUUHGZRRG
0RYLQJRQWRWKHSDODWH WRZDUGVDIUDJUDQWRDNÀQLVK /HDGLQJRQWRWKHÀQLVK
WKHUHLVÀJQXWWLQHVVDQG WKLQJVJHWUDWKHUUXEEHU\
PRUHDSSOHVZHHWQHVV$
OLJKWVSLFHWUDLOVWKHZKROH
ZD\WKURXJKZLWKVPRNH
DSSHDULQJRQWKHÀQLVK
ZLWKFLQQDPRQDQGFORYH

112 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

 WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2021
Blended Malt – Sponsored by Blue Box Design

Best Irish Best Japanese

<HDUV 8QGHU WR<HDUV

Writers’ Tears Kurayoshi

Copper Pot 40% 18 Years Old 50%
2QWKHQRVHWKHUHLVVZHHWVSLFHYDQLOOD $GHOLJKWIXOQRVHRIFLWUXVDQGULFKGDUN
FUHDPDSSOHVOLFHVDQGJXPP\ IUXLWV7KHSDODWHJHWVDZKROHORWPRUH
VZHHWV7KHIUXLW\QRWHV SHSSHU\EULQJLQJIRUWKDULFKWDVWHRIZRRG
FRQWLQXHRQWKHSDODWHZLWK DQGGDUNIUXLWLQWRWKHÀQLVK
DVROLGEDFNJURXQGRIFUHDP\
RDNDQGVSLFH2QWKHÀQLVK SHORTLIST
WKHUHLVVRPHFKRFRODWHZLWK <HDUV 8QGHU
JHQWO\EXLOGLQJFKDUQRWHV Kurayoshi
12 Years Old 43%
SHORTLIST
1R$JH6WDWHPHQW
The Irishman
Founder’s Reserve 40%

Best Swedish Best World

1R$JH6WDWHPHQW 1R$JH6WDWHPHQW

Engelbrekt Nikka
Virgin American Oak 43% Session 43%
7KHQRVHLVIXOOWRWKHEULPZLWKKDUG 8SÀUVWRQWKHQRVHWKHUHLVDOLJKWDQG
FDQG\VRPHMXLF\WURSLFDOIUXLWLQDERZO IUHVKIRUHVWVFHQW7KLV
OLJKWURVHWKDWLVYHUJLQJRQ7XUNLVKGHOLJKW FRQWLQXHVRQWRWKHSDODWH
DQGVRPHPLONFKRFRODWH DQGLVZHOOEDODQFHG7KH
7KHSDODWHNHHSVWKLQJV IUXLWWKHQFRPHVIRUZDUGDQG
IUXLW\DQGYLEUDQWZLWK OHDGVLQWRDQHOHJDQWÀQLVK
SLQHDSSOHPDQJRDQGD ZLWKDKLQWRIKDUGFKHHVH
GXVWLQJRIFDFDRSRZGHU
2QWKHÀQLVKWKLQJVGU\RXW
ZLWKVRPHUDLVLQV

,VVXH_:KLVN\0DJD]LQH113
 WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2021
Blended Limited Release – Sponsored by Bruni Erben

WORLD’S BEST BLENDED LIMITED RELEASE

Best Japanese
No Age Statement

Ichiro’s Malt & Grain

Limited Edition 2021 

8SÀUVWRQWKHQRVH\RXDUHWUHDWHGWRDULFK
FRPELQDWLRQRIV\UXSFRYHUHGDSULFRWVIROORZHGE\ROG
ZRRG\QRWHV7KHSDODWHEHFRPHVULFKO\VKHUULHGIXOO
RIVZHHWVSLFHFRODDQGKRWJLQJHULQWRWKHÀQLVK

Best Canadian Best Irish

<HDUV 2YHU No Age Statement

J.P. Wiser’s Teeling Whiskey

22 Years Old Cask Strength Stiggins’ Fancy Pineapple
Port Cask Finish  Rum Cask 
$GHOLFLRXVQRVHRIFDQGLHGJLQJHUDQG 7KLVLVLQWHUHVWLQJZLWKVZHHW
FLWUXVSHHOPLOGFDUDPHODQG FDUDPHODQGEXWWHUHGEXUQW
UHGIUXLWZLWKKLQWVRIRDN WRDVWLQLWLDOO\FRYHULQJWKH
,WLVOXVKDQGVZHHWRQWKH QRVH7KHQVXJDU\VZHHWQHVV
SDODWHEXWTXLFNO\EHFRPHV RIGHPHUDUDDSSHDUVDVZHOO
ELWWHUZLWKKLQWVRIVKHUU\ DVSLQHDQGYHJHWDEOHVWRFN
PDOWVSHDFKSLWVSHSSHU\ PHDWLQHVV7KHSDODWH
QRWHVDQGVRPHHDUWK\ EULQJVPRUHFDUDPHO
WRQHV:DWHURSHQV WKHQWRIIHHDQGDIHZ
XSPRUHVZHHWQHVV PRUHRIWKRVHEXUQW
WREDODQFHWKHKHDW ELWWHUQRWHV,WDOO
RQWKHÀQLVK IUHVKHQVXSWRZDUGV
WKHÀQLVKWKDQNVWR
DEULJKWKD\QRWH

114 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

 WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2021
Blended – Sponsored by Blue Box Design

WORLD’S BEST BLENDED

Best Scotch
<HDUV 2YHU

Dewar’s
Double Double 21 Years Old 

%LJDQGULFKULJKWRIIWKHEDW/RWVRIVKHUU\VRDNHGVXOWDQDV
DQGÀJV)UHVKFLWUXVFRPLQJWKURXJKWRR:HOOEDODQFHG
VSLFHZLWKDORYHO\OLJKWFLWUXVWRXFK/HDWKHU\QRWHVKLGH
XQGHUQHDWK5LFKDQGFRQWUROOHGZLWKJRRGEDODQFH

SHORTLIST
<HDUV 8QGHU
Lidl
Queen Margot 8 Years Old 40%

WR<HDUV
Dewar’s
15 Years Old 40%

No Age Statement
Compass Box Whisky
Rogues’ Banquet 46%

Issue 174 | Whisky Magazine 115

 WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2021
Blended – Sponsored by Blue Box Design

Best American Best Canadian Best English

No Age Statement No Age Statement No Age Statement

Breckenridge Mister Sam The One

PX Sherry Cask Finish 45% Tribute  Sherry Cask Finished 
7KHUH·VDULFKQHVVRQWKHQRVH'ULHG 7KHQRVHLVDELJKLWRIDOFRKROZLWKGULHG $GHHSQRVHRSHQLQJDFLJDUER[DQG
IUXLWVIROORZHGE\FDUDPHOYDQLOODDQG DSULFRWVULFKZRRGSROLVKUHGEHUULHVDQG OHWWLQJWKDWULFKWREDFFRUROO
VKHUULHGIUXLW0RYLQJRQ OLQVHHGRLO2QWKHSDODWH RYHU\RX7KHSDODWHLVVWLFN\
WRWKHSDODWHWKHUHLV WKHUHLVEXWWHU\WRDVWULFK VWHZHGÀJVPRUHWREDFFR
PRUHFDUDPHOGU\RDN RDNDWRXFKRIFORYHV OHDWKHU\JRRGQHVV$UHDO
VOLFHGDOPRQGVDQGFKDU JUDSHIUXLWVZHHWQHVVDQG VWLFNWR\RXUULEVEOHQG
LQÁXHQFHDORQJZLWK OHPRQ7KHÀQLVKURXQGV
PLQWWKDWOHDQVWRZDUGV RXWZLWKYDQLOOD
PHQWKRO2QWKHÀQLVK DQGRUDQJH
WKHUHDUHPRUHELJ IUHVKQHVV
VKHUU\QRWHV

SHORTLIST
<HDUV 8QGHU
291
E Colorado Whiskey
Batch #8 65.4%

Best Irish Best Japanese

No Age Statement No Age Statement

The Legendary Nikka

Silkie From the Barrel 

Original  7KHQRVHKHUHLVUDWKHUGHOLFDWHDWÀUVW

EXWWKHQRSHQVXSWREHIXOORIVRIWDQG
3URSHUZDUHKRXVHDVKVPHOO VXEWOHJUDLQ0RYLQJRQWRWKHSDODWHWKHUH
RQWKHQRVHDORQJZLWKVRPH LVPRUHJUDLQZKLFKLVQLFHO\EDODQFHGZLWK
OLJKWPDOWLQHVVDQGGHHSKD\ IUHVKUHGIUXLWLQHVV$JRRGDOOURXQGHU
0HGLXPFRPSOH[LW\DQGD
ÀQLVKWRPDWFKZLWKVRPH SHORTLIST
ZDUPWKWKHUHWRR7KHSDODWH <HDUV 8QGHU
LVORYHO\DQGPHOORZZLWK
Mars
DQXQGHUO\LQJFRPSOH[LW\
Asagi Madara 48%
SHORTLIST
<HDUV 8QGHU
Pearse Whiskey
7 Years Old Distillers
Choice 43%

116 Whisky Magazine | Issue 174

 WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2021
Single Cask Single Malt – Sponsored by Hrastnik 1860

WORLD’S BEST SINGLE CASK SINGLE MALT

Best Scottish
<HDUV 8QGHU

Spey
Spirit of Speyside Whisky
Festival 2020 
8SÀUVWRQWKHQRVHWKHUHLVVKRUWEUHDGEXWWHUVFRWFKFDQG\ÁRVV
DQGOLJKWKRQH\0RYLQJRQWRWKHSDODWHWKLQJVJHWDOLWWOHVSLFLHU
ZLWK$PHULFDQRDNVZHHWQHVVRIJUDSHIUXLWDQGFUqPHFDUDPHO
SDVVLRQIUXLWDQGDÀQLVKRIFLQQDPRQVSLFHWRZDUPLWXS

SHORTLIST
1R$JH6WDWHPHQW
Tamdhu
Iain Whitecross Single Cask 57%

Best American Best Australian Best Austrian

1R$JH6WDWHPHQW <HDUV 8QGHU 1R$JH6WDWHPHQW

Westland Adams Rauchkofel

Single Cask #5410  Peated Ex-Port Cask  Single Cask No. 24 
7KHQRVHLVOLNHODYHQGHUKRQH\ZLWKOLJKW 6OLJKWO\VPRN\RQWKHQRVHDQGVRPH 7REHJLQZLWKWKHQRVHLVDOLWWOHRQWKH
ÁRUDOLW\VWRQHIUXLWVGDUNFKHUU\DQGHDUWK\ EXUQWPDWFKDURPD7KHSDODWHLVSHDWHG GHOLFDWHVLGHZLWKIUHVKYDQLOODFXVWDUG
QRWHV2QWKHSDODWHWKHUHLVPRUHVWRQH VZHHWDQGGU\,W·VKRWDWIXOOVWUHQJWK FUqPHFDUDPHOWRIIHHSHQQLHVDQGEUHDG
IUXLWPDOWFRFRDQLEVDQG SOHDVDQWEXWQRWWRRVXEWOH DQGEXWWHUSXGGLQJ7KHSDODWHKROGVRQ
SOXPVEHIRUHPRYLQJRQWR 'DUNWRIIHHPXVFRYDGR WRWKHFUHDP\IUHVKQRWHVEXWZLWKWKH
DÀQLVKIXOORIRDN\QRWHV VXJDUPRUHVPRNLQHVV DGGLWLRQRIGULHGULFKUHG
DQGKHUEDOQRWHVWRWDVWH IUXLWVRPHPLONFKRFRODWH
DQGDOLWWOHKLQWRIFLQQDPRQ
SHORTLIST VSLFHLQWRWKHÀQLVK
WR<HDUV
Sullivans Cove
American Oak Old
& Rare Single Cask
HH0108 48%

1R$JH6WDWHPHQW
Chief’s Son
900 Standard Single
Cask 126 47.8%

,VVXH_:KLVN\0DJD]LQH117
 WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2021
Single Cask Single Malt – Sponsored by Hrastnik 1860

Best Canadian Best German Best Irish

<HDUV 8QGHU <HDUV 8QGHU <HDUV 8QGHU

Shelter Point Elsburn Dunville’s

Single Cask Peat Finish  Single Sherry Octave 12 Years Old
6XEWOHDWÀUVWEXWWKHQLWRSHQVXSWRD V15-12  PX Cask 
FRPSOH[EXUVWRIÁDYRXU
7KHQRVHLVVRXULQLWLDOO\ )LUVWRQWKHQRVH\RXÀQGRLO\
VDGGOHOHDWKHUDQGWREDFFR
IROORZHGE\PHDW\VDOW UROOLQJWREDFFRZLWKVRPH
KLQWVRISHDWZLWKPLOGFHUHDO
PRODVVHVDQGFRIIHH YDQLOODKRQH\DQGPDOWHG
QRWHVDQGDSSOHMXLFH7KH
JURXQGV2QWKHSDODWH GDUNFKRFRODWHQRWHV7KH
SDODWHEXUVWVZLWKSHDW
WKLQJVGU\RXWWRDEXUQW SDODWHEULQJVZDUPLQJ
VPRNHEULQHRUFKDUGIUXLWV
PHWDOOLFYHUPRXWKOLNH FRPSOH[LW\ZLWKFLQQDPRQ
DQGZKROHZKHDWÁRXU
FDUGERDUGQRWH,W·V VSLFHJXQSRZGHUJRRG
,W·VYHU\SHSSHU\ZLWK
DOPRVWUXPP\ ULFKVKHUU\FKDUDFWHU
EXUQLQJKHDW7KH
ZLWKLWVVZHHWQHVV UDLVLQVDQGEODFN
KHDWFXWVWKURXJKWKH
LQWRWKHÀQLVK FKHUU\LQWRWKHÀQLVK
VZHHWQHVVYHU\TXLFNO\
JLYLQJDVK\QRWHV
SHORTLIST
RQWKHORQJÀQLVK
WR<HDUV
The Tyrconnell
16 Years Old Oloroso
& Moscatel Cask
Finish 46%

Best Japanese Best New Zealand Best Taiwanese

<HDUV 8QGHU <HDUV 8QGHU 1R$JH6WDWHPHQW

Ichiro’s Malt The Cardrona Kavalan

For Chichibu Whisk(e)y Growing Wings  Solist Oloroso
Matsuri  7KHQRVHLVDJUHDWFRPELQDWLRQRIIUHVKO\ Sherry Cask 
VOLFHGJLQJHURUDQJH]HVWUDLVLQVDQG
8SÀUVWRQWKHQRVHDUHIUHVK VXOWDQDV2QWKHSDODWH\RX 2QWKHQRVHLW·VDUHDOVKHUU\
ULSHDSSOHVOLJKWIUXLWVDQG JHWPRUHRIWKHGULHGIUXLW ERPEZLWKVWURQJQRWHV
EHDXWLIXOO\VKHUULHGPDOW IROORZHGE\FDQGLHGSHHO RI3HGUR;LPpQH]DSULFRW
0RYLQJRQWRWKHSDODWHWKHUH MDPP\UHGEHUULHVGDUN VXOWDQDVFDQWDORXSHDQG
LVULFKFRFRDOLJKWZKLWH FKRFRODWHDQGYDQLOOD DFHWRQH0RYLQJRQWRWKH
JUDSHVDQGDQWLTXHIXUQLWXUH SDODWHWKHUHLVPRUHVKHUU\
ZLWKDKLQWRISROLVK IROORZHGE\UDLVLQVGULHG
SOXPVDQGSHDFKHV7KH
SHORTLIST ÀQLVKZUDSVXSZLWKGDUN
1R$JH6WDWHPHQW FKRFRODWHDQGFRIIHH
Mars
Marsmalt Le Papillon SHORTLIST
Kujaku-cho 59% <HDUV 8QGHU
Omar
Peated Cask
Strength - Virgin Oak
#01150139 56.4%

118:KLVN\0DJD]LQH_,VVXH
 WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2021
Single Malt – Sponsored by Rankin Brothers & Sons

WORLD’S BEST SINGLE MALT

Best Scotch Speyside
<HDUV 8QGHU

The GlenAllachie
10 Years Old Batch 4 

7KHQRVHRSHQVXSLQLWLDOO\LQDVRIWZD\ZLWKOLJKWWRDVWHGQRWHV
DQGVRPHRDNDQGKRQH\7KHSDODWHJHWVDOLWWOHPRUHSXQFK\ZLWK
GULHGDSULFRWVZKLWHSHSSHUDQGFORYHVDOORIZKLFKLVEDODQFHG
E\VRIWFDUDPHOSLQHDSSOHDQGFRIIHHQRWHVOHDGLQJWRWKHÀQLVK

SHORTLIST
WR<HDUV
Tomintoul
16 Years Old 40%

<HDUV 2YHU
Glen Keith
21 Years Old 56.9%

1R$JH6WDWHPHQW
Aberlour
A’Bunadh 57.1%

,VVXH_:KLVN\0DJD]LQH119
 WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2021
Single Malt – Sponsored by Rankin Brothers & Sons

Best American Best Australian Best Canadian

1R$JH6WDWHPHQW 1R$JH6WDWHPHQW 1R$JH6WDWHPHQW

Westland Hellyers Road Macaloney’s

Garryana Edition 5  Henry’s Legacy Caledonian
2QWKHQRVHWKHUHLVHDUWK\VPRRWK Freestone Cove  Glenloy 
SHDWPDOWVPRXOGHULQJIDOOHQOHDYHV
*UHHQWHDFHUHDOFRFRD /RYHO\ULFKPDUPDODGHZLWK
KRQH\VXFNOHDQGSHDU2YHU
QLEVGXVW\PDWXUHRDNVRPH VRPHQXWPHJFXWWLQJ
RQWKHSDODWHWKHUHLVULSH
RYHUULSHIUXLWZKLWHSHSSHU WKURXJKDORQJVLGHPDOW\
IUXLWDSSOHDQGVZHHWULFK
DQGSHDFK7HDWDQQLQVRQ EUHDNIDVWFHUHDO7KH
VSLFHVWKDWOHDGWRDZHOO
WKHSDODWH$IWHUVRPHZDWHU SDODWHLVYHU\VZHHWDQG
EDODQFHGÀQLVKRIPRUHIUXLW
WKHSHSSHUDQGSHDFKUHDOO\ IUXLW\ZLWKVWHZHGUKXEDUE
RSHQXSDQGWKHUH·VDZKLWH DQGJLQJHUVSLFHSHUKDSV
SHORTLIST
JUDSHMXLFHÀQLVKJDUODQGHG FDQGLHGJLQJHU7KH
Balcones Distilling
E\JUDSHIUXLW,W·VEULOOLDQW ÀQLVKLVSRZHUIXO
High Plains 57%
DQGORQJEXWQRW
SHORTLIST RYHUZKHOPLQJ
<HDUV 8QGHU
Archie Rose Single Malt 46% SHORTLIST
<HDUV 8QGHU
WR<HDUV Shelter Point
Hellyers Road Artisanal 46%
15 Years Old Slightly
Peated 46.2%

Best Danish Best English Best French

1R$JH6WDWHPHQW 1R$JH6WDWHPHQW 1R$JH6WDWHPHQW

Mosgaard Bimber Yeun Elez

Pedro Ximénez Cask  Oloroso Cask Batch #1  Jobic 
2QWKHQRVHWKLQJVDUHYHU\KHUEDOZLWK ,WLVTXLWHPDOW\DQGVSLF\ZLWK 7KHQRVHLVOLNHZDONLQJLQWRDODXQGU\
GULHGED\OHDYHVDQGORYDJHGULHGIUXLW QRWHVRIFORYHVFLQQDPRQ FXSERDUGIXOORIODYHQGHU
SHDUVNLQDQGVRIWVSLFHVOLNHYDQLOOD URDVWHGFRIIHHEHDQVDQG ÁRZHUVEDVNHWVIXOORI
7KHSDODWHFRQWLQXHVZLWK GU\WDQQLQVDORQJVLGHYDQLOOD IUHVKO\ZDVKHGFORWKHV
WKHKHUEDOWKHPHEXW KRQH\DQGOHPRQFLWUXVZLWK DQGVRIWIUXLWV7KHQRQ
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 WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2021
Single Malt – Sponsored by Rankin Brothers & Sons

Best German Best Indian Best Irish

<HDUV 8QGHU 1R$JH6WDWHPHQW <HDUV 2YHU

The Westfalian Paul John Teeling Whiskey

Cask 99  PX Select Cask  28 Years Old 
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7KHÀQLVKZUDSV\RXXSLQ ÀQLVKLVORQJGU\DQGKRW SHORTLIST
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Dunville’s
SHORTLIST PX 12 Years Old 46%
1R$JH6WDWHPHQW
Elsburn WR<HDUV
Wayfare - The Cask Roe & Co.
Strength 57.7% Cask Strength 2020
Edition 58%

1R$JH6WDWHPHQW
Teeling Whiskey
Blackpitts 46%

Best Israeli Best Japanese Best Scotch Campbeltown

<HDUV 8QGHU <HDUV 8QGHU 1R$JH6WDWHPHQW

M&H Ichiro’s Malt Glen Scotia

Pomegranate Cask  Chichibu The First Ten  Campbeltown Harbour 
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Kanro 2020 55%

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 WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2021
Single Malt – Sponsored by Rankin Brothers & Sons

Best Scotch Highlands Best Scotch Islands Best Scotch Islay

<HDUV 2YHU WR<HDUV <HDUV 2YHU

Royal Brackla Ledaig Bunnahabhain

21 Years Old Sherry 18 Years Old  25 Years Old 
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SHORTLIST
<HDUV 8QGHU SHORTLIST SHORTLIST
Loch Lomond <HDUV 8QGHU <HDUV 8QGHU
Inchmurrin 12 Ledaig Bunnahabhain
Years Old 46% 10 Years Old 46.3% 12 Years Old 46.3%

WR<HDUV 1R$JH6WDWHPHQW WR<HDUV

Royal Brackla Highland Park Bunnahabhain
18 Years Old Sherry Triskelion 45.1% 18 Years Old 46.3%
Cask Finish 46%
1R$JH6WDWHPHQW
1R$JH6WDWHPHQW
Bunnahabhain
Deanston Cruach Mhona 50%
Virgin Oak 46.3%

Best Scotch Lowlands Best Swedish Best Taiwanese

<HDUV 2YHU <HDUV 8QGHU 1R$JH6WDWHPHQW

Rosebank High Coast Kavalan

30 Years Old  63 Batch 3  Podium 
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High Coast <HDUV 8QGHU
SHORTLIST Cinco 50.5% Omar
<HDUV 8QGHU Peated (Duty-Free) 46%
Kingsbarns
Dream to Dram 46%

WR<HDUV
Bladnoch
14 Years Old 46.7%

122:KLVN\0DJD]LQH_,VVXH