Design and Development of Peel-off Mask Gel Formulation of

Citronella Oil for Acne Vulgaris

Dyah Rahmasari*, Dian Ermawati, Raditya Weka Nugraheni, Dwi Ramadhaningtyas Putri, and Indah
Nur Pratiwi
Department of Pharmacy, Faculty of Health Science, University of Muhammadiyah Malang, Jalan Bendungan Sutami
188A, Malang 65145, East Java, Indonesia

Keyword: Citronella Oil, Peel-Off Mask Gel, Stabilit, Antibacterial Activity

Abstract: Cymbopogon nardus is a traditional plant that has chemical content of citronella oil with potential antibacterial
activity. Antibacterial peel-off mask is very easy to applicate on face. This research aim is to develop and
characterize the antibacterial peel-off mask gel containing citronella oil. This study used an experimental
method. The peel-off mask was formulated using 8%, 10%, and 12% of polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) as a gelling
agent. Evaluation of peel-off mask including physical characteristics (organoleptic, homogeneity, viscosity,
spreadability, film drying time), chemical characteristic (pH value), stability and antibacterial activity. The
organoleptic properties showed that the citronella oil peel-off gel mask was white, aromatic and had a soft
texture. The variation in PVA affects the pH value, viscosity and film drying time of the peel-off mask,
significantly. Stability test showed that all peel-off mask was no significant changes physically in the freeze-
thaw method, but there was some color change and phase separation in the real-time method. The peel-off
mask containing citronella oil using 8% PVA has the highest inhibition against Propionibacterium acnes
almost the same with the positive control (clindamycin gel). Variation concentration of PVA in the formula
was affected on the physical and chemical characteristics and antibacterial activity of the citronella oil peel-
off mask gel, significantly. The preparation using 8% PVA gives the best formula with optimal results.

1 INTRODUCTION to these data, the citronella oil (C. nardus) has

potential as an anti-acne agent for facial skin
Acne vulgaris is one of the most common skin treatment.
diseases worldwide where it diagnosed in 80% of all Peel-off mask is applied as a liquid film that thinly
teenagers (Griffiths, C., Barker, J., Bleiker, T., spread with fingers on the face and peels-off as a thin
Chalmers, R., Creamer, 2016). About 83% to 85% of plasticized film (Suhery and Anggraini, 2016) after
adolescent girls and 95% to 100% of adolescent boys complete drying without leaving any residues (Rosa
are afflicted (Shalita, Del Rosso and Webster, 2011). et al., 2013). It can be repairing refreshing and
Several major factors influence acne pathogenesis, tightening facial skin (Husni and Dewi, 2019),
including Propionibacterium acnes, which secretes provides deep pore cleansing and skin debris removal
various biologically active molecules and plays a role (Suhery and Anggraini, 2016). Peel-off can also
in the initiation of the local inflammatory response provide slight moisturizing action and enhances the
(Zouboulis, Katsambas and Kligman, 2013). occlusive effect (Rosa et al., 2013), improving blood
Most people with acne will first try to self-treat circulation, stimulating the activity of skin cells,
and some of them using antibacterial masks as removing dead skin cells, softening the skin and
treatment (Draelos, 2016) and choosing use natural providing nutrients on the skin (Husni and Dewi,
products. One of the natural herbs is citronella 2019)(Kulkarni, Gupta and Bhawsar, 2019). Mostly,
(Cymbopogon nardus). Citronella oils contain the peel-off mask is based on polyvinyl alcohol
citronellal, citronellol, and geraniol as several major (PVA) or polyvinyl acetate (PVAc), which causes
components. It has shown antibacterial and antifungal tensor and occlusion effects (Nilforoushzadeh et al.,
activities in vitro, as active as penicillin against 2018).
certain Gram-positive bacteria (Ehab, no date). Due

157
Rahmasari, D., Ermawati, D., Nugraheni, R., Putri, D. and Pratiwi, I.
Design and Development of Peel-off Mask Gel Formulation of Citronella Oil for Acne Vulgaris.
DOI: 10.5220/0009126101570163
In Proceedings of the 2nd Health Science International Conference (HSIC 2019), pages 157-163
ISBN: 978-989-758-462-6
Copyright c 2020 by SCITEPRESS – Science and Technology Publications, Lda. All rights reserved
HSIC 2019 - The Health Science International Conference

The objective of this study was to develop and Lastly, added some fragrance into mixture 1 and
formulate citronella oil peel-off mask by using poured with mixture 4 homogenously until peel-off
various concentration of PVA and evaluate by several masks are formed.
test methods, which possesses antibacterial activity as
an alternative of facial skin care product. Physicochemical evaluation of citronella oil peel-
off mask gel
The physicochemical evaluation involved was
2 METHODS organoleptic, homogeneity test, determination of pH
value, viscosity, gel spreadability, and film drying
time. Organoleptic was observed as its odor, color,
Instruments
pH meter, Brookfield viscometer, autoclave, petri and consistency visually. The homogeneity test was
observed by applying the gel on transparent glass. pH
dish, incubator, climatic chamber, refrigerator.
value was measured by using pH meter and viscosity
was determined by using Viscometer. Gel
Ingredients
spreadability was measured by applying gel on
Citronella (Cymbopogon nardus L.) oil, Polyvinyl
Alcohol (PVA), Polyethylene glycol 400, Propylene transparent glass plates then loading by some loads.
glycol, Butylated Hydroxyl Toluene (BHT), Methyl Film drying time was observed by applying the
amount of gel on hands and wait until it formed a dry
Paraben, Ethyl Paraben, Disodium EDTA, Glycerin,
Sweet orange oil, polysorbate 80 (Tween 80), and and elastic layer.
aquadest. Propionibacterium acne was used for
antibacterial activity test and clindamycin gel was Stability evaluation
used as the positive control. The stability evaluation was held using two methods,
real-time and accelerated stability method. The real-
time stability method evaluation was observed by
Peel-off mask gel preparation of citronella oil
The formulation of a peel-off mask gel of citronella storing the peel-off mask gel under the following
storage conditions: 30±2°C (room temperature) and
oil was made according to the formula presented in
Table 1. PVA was dispersed in 80% of the distilled 40±2°C (climatic chamber). Each sample was
water (85 - 90 ) in a water bath (mixture 1). PEG analyzed for one month (28 days) according to the
following parameters: organoleptic characteristic and
400 was dissolved in the water (mixture 2). Methyl
paraben and disodium EDTA was dispersed into the pH value. The accelerated stability method evaluation
propylene glycol and glycerin then stirred until was performed to see the stability of formulations at
low (4ºC ± 2ºC) and high temperature (40ºC ± 2ºC)
homogenous and added with Tween 80 and the
remaining amount of water (20%) (mixture 3). Propyl for 24 hours respectively. It was counted as one cycle
paraben and BHT were dispersed into the citronella and was analyzed for 6 cycles according to the several
parameters: organoleptic characteristic, phase
oil (mixture 4). Then added mixture 3 into mixture 2
homogenously and added again into mixture 1. separation and pH value.

Table 1: Formulation of Citronella oil peel-off mask gel.

Ingredients F1 F2 F3
Citronella Oil 0.5 % 0.5 % 0.5 %
PVA 8% 10 % 12 %
PEG 400 2% 2% 2%
BHT 0.7 % 0.7 % 0.7 %
Propylene glycol 2% 2% 2%
Glycerin 2% 2% 2%
Methyl paraben 0.1 % 0.1 % 0.1 %
Ethyl paraben 0.3 % 0.3 % 0.3 %
Tween 80 1% 1% 1%
Disodium EDTA 0.02 % 0.02 % 0.02 %
Sweet orange oil 0.1 % 0.1 % 0.1 %
Aquadest until 100% until 100% until 100%

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 Design and Development of Peel-off Mask Gel Formulation of Citronella Oil for Acne Vulgaris

Antibacterial activity test on citronella oil peel-off triplicate and average values calculated (Table 2).
mask gel PVA is a water-soluble synthetic polymer that has a
The disc diffusion method was used to determine the pH value of 5.0 – 8.0 (Rowe, Sheskey and Cook,
zone of inhibition against Propionibacterium acnes. 2009). The variation of PVA concentration in the
Antibacterial activity of citronella oil peel-off mask citronella oil peel-off mask gel will affect the pH
gel was tested by a modified well in agar method value of resulting preparation. The greater
(Ilavenil, S, B. Kaleeswaran, B. and Ravikumar, concentration of PVA, the higher the pH value of the
2010). Paper discs (6mm in diameter) were placed on preparation obtained. The pH of peel-off mask gel
MHA (Mueller Hinton Agar) media surface that been preparations was within the normal pH range of the
inoculated with bacterial suspension (Budiman et al., skin.
2017). Bacteria that were suspended with 0.9% NaCl A viscosity test was carried out to determine the
equalized using nephelometer (BD Pheonix) with a thickness of a preparation and was measured using
standard of 0.5 Mc Farland (estimated 1.5 x 108 Brookfield viscometer. As shown in Table 2, the
bacterial cells / mL) (Azrifitria; Aziz, 2010). Then greater the concentration of PVA as a film-forming or
poured the citronella oil peel-off mask gel into each gelling agent, the higher viscosity of the preparation
well about 50μm using micropipette. Each gel was was obtained. Viscosity in the peel-off mask gel is
assayed in triplicate. The antibiotic (Clindamycin gel) influenced by an increase in gelling agent
was used as a positive control, while the negative concentration (Yuliani, 2010). PVA has substantial
control contained peel-off mask gel without citronella flexibility, tensile strength and hardness (Gaaz et al.,
oil. Petri dishes were incubated at 37 for 24 hours 2015). This will cause a greater binding and retention
(Ilavenil, S, B. Kaleeswaran, B. and Ravikumar, of the fluid by the gelling agent, therefore, the
2010). viscosity of the preparation increases.
A gel spreadability test was performed to examine
the ability of citronella oil peel-off mask gel to spread
3 RESULTS AND DISCUSSION when applied on the skin. The rate of spreading
depends on the rate and time of shear produced upon
smearing and also depends on the viscosity of the
Physicochemical evaluation of citronella oil peel-
formulation (Garg et al., 2002). In the topical
off mask gel
preparation, spread is inversely proportional to its
Organoleptic test was carried out to see the physical
appearance of the preparation by observing the color, viscosity. Based on the results of testing the
smell, consistency, and homogeneity of the spreadability of peel-off mask gel, it was concluded
that the increasing of PVA concentration affected the
preparation. The all peel-off masks gel are white. It
had a distinctive smell of citronella oil and a hint of gel spreadability. The lower the viscosity, the higher
orange scent. These gels had a semi-solid the dispersal power (Chandira, R. M. Pradeep;
Pasupathi, A.; Bhowmik, D. Chiranjib, Jayakar and
consistency, soft and smooth, easy to apply, light to
spread, thin and get thicker with the addition of PVA. K., K. Tripathi; Kumar, 2010). A good peel-off mask
Homogeneity of the preparation was shown by the gel has a dispersion of 5 – 7cm (Rahmawanty, Dina;
Yulianti, Nita; Fitriana, 2015) (Table 2).
absence of coarse particles (Ditjen POM, 1985), has
a flat color and showed no phase separation (between Film Drying Time was carried out to find out how
citronella oil and peel-off mask gel base) in the long the peel-off mask gel preparation will dry on the
surface of the skin and form a layer of film. Ideally,
preparation after its application to a transparent glass.
The pH value should be in the broad range of skin the peel-off mask gel should dry between 15 – 30 min
(Vieira et al., 2009). As shown in Table 2, the drying
pH (from 4.0 to 7.0) to avoid any irritation to the skin
test of the film showed that F3 dried faster than F1
(Ali and Yosipovitch, 2013) and should be lower than
5.0 for better skin condition (Lambers et al., 2006). and F2, this might be caused by the high
concentration of PVA in the formula.
The result of pH value measurement was done in

Table 2: Results of the physicochemical evaluation.

Parameter F1 F2 F3
pH 4,80 ± 0,23 5,28 ± 0,58 6,11 ± 0,32
Viscosity (cps) 500 ± 0 1467 ± 115,47 3800 ± 1609,35
Spreadability (cm) 7,18 ± 0,32 6,67 ± 0,51 6,22 ± 1,15
Film Drying Time (min) 23,38 ± 0,08 21,18 ± 0,25 16,66 ± 0,30

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Stability evaluation 2ºC) and in climatic chamber (40ºC ± 2ºC) led to a

Freeze-thaw stability evaluation was evaluated in 6 sign of instability in phase separation. The citronella
cycles (12 days) to verify signs of instability in the oil peel-off mask gel showed a visual phase
formulations under extreme conditions. The results separation in 3rd weeks on storage in room
are shown in Table 3 and Figure 1. It was verified that temperature and in 2nd weeks on storage in the
the optimized formulations stored at extreme climatic chamber (Table 4). The sedimentation
temperature (4ºC ± 2ºC to 40ºC ± 2ºC for 6 cycles) phenomenon on phase separation led to a distribution
did not show signs of instability, both in organoleptic gradient where larger particles were concentrated at
parameters or in pH value. the bottom of the glass bottle (Beringhs et al., 2013).
Nevertheless, the storage at real-time method (28
days) with exposure in room temperature (30ºC ±

Table 3: Result of the freeze-thaw stability evaluation.

F1 F2 F3
Parameter Time (Cycle)
1 2 3 4 5 6 1 2 3 4 5 6 1 2 3 4 5 6
Color N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N
Odor N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N
Consistency N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N
Phase
NS NS NS NS NS NS NS NS NS NS NS NS NS NS NS NS NS NS
Separation
N Normal, NS No Separation

7.00 5.40
6.11 5.30
6.00
5.28 5.20
5.16
4.80 5.12 5.10
5.00
5.00
pH Value

4.00 4.90

4.78 4.80 Before

3.00
4.70 After
2.00 4.60
4.50
1.00
4.40
0.00 4.30
I II III
Formula

Figure 1: Variation of pH value on freeze-thaw stability method evaluation

160
 Design and Development of Peel-off Mask Gel Formulation of Citronella Oil for Acne Vulgaris

Table 4: Result of the real-time stability evaluation

F1 F2 F3
Time (Week) Time (Week) Time (Week)
Parameter
1 2 3 4 1 2 3 4 1 2 3 4
30±2°C 30±2°C 30±2°C
Color N N N N N N N N N N N N
Odor N N N N N N N N N N N N
Consistency N N N N N N N N N N N N
Phase
NS NS S S NS NS S S NS NS S S
Separation
40±2°C 40±2°C 40±2°C
Color N N N N N N N N N N N N
Odor N N N N N N N N N N N N
Consistency N N N N N N N N N N N N
Phase
NS S S S NS S S S NS S S S
Separation
N Normal, NS No Separation, S Separation

5.40 7.00
6.11
5.20 6.00
5.28
4.80 5.12 5.13
5.00
5.00
pH Value

4.00
4.80
4.72 3.00 Before

4.60 After
2.00

4.40 1.00

4.20 0.00
I II III
Formula

Figure 2: Variation of pH value on real time (30±2°C) stability method evaluation

5.05 7.00
6.11
5.00 6.00
5.28 4.98
4.95 4.80
4.91 5.00
4.90
pH Value

4.85 4.00
4.80 4.82
3.00 Before
4.75
2.00 After
4.70
4.65 1.00
4.60 0.00
I II III
Formula

Figure 3: Variation of pH value on real time (40±2°C) stability method evaluation.

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12.00

Inhibition Zone (mm)

10.00 10.33 10.00 9.46 8.90
8.00
6.00 6.00
4.00
2.00
0.00 0.00
-2.00 kontrol kontrol I II III
(+) (-)
Formula

Figure 4: Results of antibacterial activity test Citronella oil peel-off mask gel

Antibacterial activity test of citronella oil peel-off concentration on PVA was affected on
mask gel physicochemical characteristics and antibacterial
The result of the antibacterial activity test of activity of citronella oil peel-off mask gel,
citronella oil peel-off mask gel can be seen in Figure significantly.
4. The results of the antibacterial activity test showed
that the citronella oil peel-off mask gel can inhibit the
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