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    Abstracts: Abstracts of Papers That Were Published in The IFSCC MAGAZINE, Volume 9, No 3, 2006

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    ANGIE TATIANA RUIZ LADINO
    This document contains abstracts from papers published in the IFSCC MAGAZINE, Volume 9, No 3, 2006. The abstracts summarize research on: 1) Liquid crystal emulsification, which can be used to form fine emulsions and gels containing oils of varying polarity. 2) Prebiotic cosmetics as an alternative to antibacterial products, which work to balance skin microflora and inhibit harmful bacteria. 3) A study finding a placebo effect from packaging, with instrumented measurements showing efficacy from a product regardless of plain vs fancy packaging, though consumption differed between groups. 4) Research on a novel anti-aging compound called Hydroxy Dimethoxybenz

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    Abstracts: Abstracts of Papers That Were Published in The IFSCC MAGAZINE, Volume 9, No 3, 2006

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    ANGIE TATIANA RUIZ LADINO
    27 views3 pages
    This document contains abstracts from papers published in the IFSCC MAGAZINE, Volume 9, No 3, 2006. The abstracts summarize research on: 1) Liquid crystal emulsification, which can be used to form fine emulsions and gels containing oils of varying polarity. 2) Prebiotic cosmetics as an alternative to antibacterial products, which work to balance skin microflora and inhibit harmful bacteria. 3) A study finding a placebo effect from packaging, with instrumented measurements showing efficacy from a product regardless of plain vs fancy packaging, though consumption differed between groups. 4) Research on a novel anti-aging compound called Hydroxy Dimethoxybenz

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    This document contains abstracts from papers published in the IFSCC MAGAZINE, Volume 9, No 3, 2006. The abstracts summarize research on: 1) Liquid crystal emulsification, which can be used to form fine emulsions and gels containing oils of varying polarity. 2) Prebiotic cosmetics as an alternative to antibacterial products, which work to balance skin microflora and inhibit harmful bacteria. 3) A study finding a placebo effect from packaging, with instrumented measurements showing efficacy from a product regardless of plain vs fancy packaging, though consumption differed between groups. 4) Research on a novel anti-aging compound called Hydroxy Dimethoxybenz

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd
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    27 views3 pages

    Abstracts: Abstracts of Papers That Were Published in The IFSCC MAGAZINE, Volume 9, No 3, 2006

    Uploaded by

    ANGIE TATIANA RUIZ LADINO
    This document contains abstracts from papers published in the IFSCC MAGAZINE, Volume 9, No 3, 2006. The abstracts summarize research on: 1) Liquid crystal emulsification, which can be used to form fine emulsions and gels containing oils of varying polarity. 2) Prebiotic cosmetics as an alternative to antibacterial products, which work to balance skin microflora and inhibit harmful bacteria. 3) A study finding a placebo effect from packaging, with instrumented measurements showing efficacy from a product regardless of plain vs fancy packaging, though consumption differed between groups. 4) Research on a novel anti-aging compound called Hydroxy Dimethoxybenz

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    of 3

    International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2007, 29, 63–66

    Abstracts
    Abstracts of papers that were published in the IFSCC MAGAZINE,
    Volume 9, No 3, 2006

    Formation of Lipid Emulsions and properties of liquid crystal emulsification,


    Clear Gels by Liquid Crystal which can be used for oils of various polarity
    Emulsification and different molecular constituents. When a
    T. Suzuki and H. Iwai self-organizing artificial stratum corneum
    Kao Corporation, Global R&D, 2-1-3 Bunka, lipid containing pseudo-ceramide was used as
    Sumida-ku, Tokyo 131, Japan a principal component of the oil, a multila-
    mellar emulsion of concentric lamellar struc-
    Recently developed emulsion technologies for ture was formed. The multilamellar emulsion
    the formation of fine emulsions, lipid emul- supplements the physiological function of
    sions and clear gels by liquid crystal emulsifi- stratum corneum by the identical mechanism
    cation were reviewed. As a basic information as natural intercellular lipids. High-pressure
    on liquid crystal emulsification, the structures treatment of the lipid emulsion produced a
    and characteristic behaviours of lyotropic gel-like emulsion crystal, in which the homo-
    liquid crystals were summarized. Formation geneous nanoemulsion droplets were
    of a liquid crystalline phase was often seen in arranged in a hexagonal array.
    emulsions and biological systems. The signifi- This review paper was presented at the
    cance of liquid crystal formation during Conference of the Asian Societies of Cosmetic
    emulsification was analysed by comparing Scientists 2005 in Bangkok.
    the states and stabilities of emulsions pre-
    pared by different processes. Then uses of
    liquid crystals for formation of the character- Prebiotic Cosmetics: An Alternative
    istic emulsions and gels were also discussed. to Antibacterial Products
    In liquid crystal emulsification, an oil phase D. Bockmühl, C. Jassoy, S. Nieveler, R.
    is dispersed directly into the lamellar liquid- Scholtyssek, A. Wadle and M. Waldmann-Laue
    crystalline phase composed of surfactant, Henkel KGaA, 40191 Düsseldorf, Germany
    glycerol and water to prepare a gel-like oil-
    in-liquid crystal emulsion. This is followed by The concept of prebiotics is well known from
    dilution with the remaining water to produce food products, where several ingredients are
    an emulsion. From the phase behaviour dur- used to stimulate the beneficial gut microflo-
    ing emulsification and analysis of the local ra. However, prebiotic substances can in
    motion of the liquid crystal membrane by principle be applied to balance almost any
    fluorometry, it was confirmed that the inter- microbial community to achieve advanta-
    action between surfactant and a polyol mole- geous effects. Since many cosmetic products
    cule such as glycerol promotes hydrogen target skin bacteria as a cause for undesirable
    bonding and enhances the strength of the conditions like inflammation or body odour,
    lamellar liquid crystal membranes, which prebiotic actives can help to cope with these
    results in the formation of oil-in-liquid crystal problems in a very effective way. To ensure a
    emulsions. The interaction between the liquid focused and successful mode of action we
    crystal and oil was analysed from the chan- demonstrated that it is essential to analyse
    ges in molecular motion of the membrane at the microflora and the interactions between
    the oil-liquid crystal interface using the spin different bacterial species carefully. These
    label technique of electron spin resonance analyses were made using a molecular
    (ESR). The fluidity of the liquid crystal mem- method, fluorescence in situ hybridization
    brane did not change when oil was added, (FISH), allowing a precise determination of a
    and therefore oil-in-liquid crystal emulsions bacterial community without the drawbacks
    of various oils were prepared by the identical of classical culture methods. In a further step
    process. This lack of dependence of the liquid it was then possible to identify new actives
    crystal membrane on oil results in the unique that inhibit harmful or unwanted bacterial

    Ó 2007 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie 63


    Abstracts

    species while protecting the beneficial flora. packaged product to panellists. The given
    Using a quick and reliable in vitro screening product was applied to the face twice a day
    method we found several plant extracts (e.g. for 8 weeks. Instrumental measurements of
    Ginseng or Black currant) which inhibit the the skin colour (a* and L* parameter), skin
    inflammation-causing bacterium Propionibac- capacitance, skin tensile properties (R0, R2,
    terium acnes, but do not affect beneficial spe- R6), skin thickness and skin microrelief
    cies like coagulase-negative staphylococci. In parameters (Ra and Rz) were taken at base-
    addition, it could also be demonstrated that a line and after 4 and 8 weeks of use. Clinical
    prebiotic product line for treatment of and subjective evaluations were also carried
    inflamed (or acne prone) skin showed the out at each control visit. Moreover, the
    predicted effects on the microflora composi- amount of cream consumed during usage
    tion in a first in vivo trial, i.e. decrease of was calculated by weighing the given jars at
    Propionibacterium acnes at a constant level of each visit. Statistical analysis of the data
    total bacteria. After 3 weeks, the microflora obtained showed a significant improvement
    of 91% of the volunteers had been rebalanced in all instrumental parameters for both
    in this way. Furthermore, these formulations groups (‘fancy’ and ‘plain’ packaging),
    have been shown to exhibit excellent skin although no significant differences were
    compatibility compared to an antibacterial detected between the two groups at any time.
    product. Thus, prebiotic substances have the The improvement was higher in the ‘plain’
    potential to provide a gentle and sustainable group for most instrumental parameters
    alternative to undirected antibacterial ingre- except for micro-relief parameters where the
    dients which can cause irritation, and fre- outcome was better in the ‘fancy’ group. Pro-
    quently only show short time effects. motion of facial muscle relaxation deriving
    Paper presented at the IFSCC Conference from the application of the fancy-packaged
    2005, Florence, Italy. cream could be a possible explanation for this
    finding. Also the product’s efficacy and sen-
    sory properties were perceived with a higher
    Objective Evaluation of the Placebo positive impact in the fancy group. The better
    performance of the plain packaging group
    Effect in Cosmetic Treatments.
    could be related to daily application of the
    A Randomized Controlled Study ‘proper’ amount of cream. In fact, this group
    F. Distante, V. Pagani1, A. Bonfigli1, L. Rigano consumed a larger amount of cream than the
    1
    and J. Fluhr2 ‘fancy’ group. These results show that a true
    1
    ISPE – Institute of Skin and Product placebo effect cannot be induced by pack-
    Evaluation, Via Bruschetti, 1, 20125 Milan, aging characteristics, although they can
    Italy, 2Department of Dermatology, University slightly influence the degree of the expected
    of Jena, 07743 Jena, Germany skin benefits in different ways. Moreover,
    proper daily dosage of the product appears to
    A product’s packaging and claimed efficacy be a key factor in improving the biophysical
    may stimulate pleasant emotions during the skin properties related to anti-ageing and
    use of cosmetics, thus enhancing their per- restoring effects.
    ceived benefits. The aim of this study was to Paper presented at the IFSCC Conference
    evaluate if smart packaging and strongly 2005, Florence, Italy.
    claimed efficacy attributes can influence the
    objectively measured efficacy, allowing a true
    placebo effect to be associated with a given
    cosmetic treatment. A marketed anti-aging Hydroxy Dimethoxybenzyl Malonate:
    gluconolactone-based formulation was selec- A Novel Anti-(Photo)ageing Concept
    ted for the study and packaged both in a T. Rudolph, P. Bühle, J. Beck, F. Pflücker,
    fancy sophisticated jar and in an unbranded K.-A. Reiffen and H. Buchholz
    plain container. Thirty-six female volunteers Merck KGaA, Frankfurter Strasse 250, 64293
    (age range: 30–55 years) with facial photo- Darmstadt, Germany
    ageing were selected for the study and ran-
    domly assigned to the fancy or plain Ideally, anti-(photo)ageing concepts should
    packaged product. Pre-agreed messages provide maximum efficacy, perfect stability
    aimed at extolling the product’s cosmetic and cosmetic (formulation) elegance. The
    effects accompanied delivery of the fancy- need for high efficacy paired with excellent

    64 Ó 2007 International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 29, 63–66

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