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ARTICLE INFORMATION A B S T R A C T
Article history: Food loss is a worldwide concern, especially the losses from the fresh
Received: 06 November 2022 tubers because of their quick rottenness during post-harvest without
Revised: 31 December 2022 proper preservation. Meanwhile, the tuber is an excellent source of
Available online: March 2023 carbohydrates that can be used in a broad range of food and other
industries. Therefore, creating added-value products from crops has
Keywords: been considered an intriguing idea for decades in order to reduce this
Added-value products, Organoleptic test,
matter and also can utilize raw materials from agriculture. This research
Physicochemical characteristics, Starch
aimed to determine and evaluate the effects of starch addition from
Jicama on the characteristic of peel-off gel masks. Five different
Correspondence:
formulations were made with increased starch concentration at 1%, 2%,
E-mail: [email protected]
3%, and 4%, and a control sample was formulated without adding
starch. Organoleptic, spreadability, homogeneity, irritation, viscosity,
pH, peeling time, and antibacterial and antioxidant activity were
parameters in evaluating gel formulations. The best formula showed a
homogenous consistency, there was no irritating reaction, and it had the
highest sensory point from the panellist. The acidic degree and viscosity
were 5.53 and 32867 cPs, respectively, which adhered to the Indonesian
National Standard (SNI 2007) for facial skin products; the gel had good
spreadability, and the peeling time was less than 30 minutes. Moreover,
the gel presented an active antibacterial activity against Staphylococcus
aureus; and antioxidant activity. According to the results, Jicama is
recommended for application in making good quality peel-off gel mask
products at 4% concentration.
@2022
The awareness, combined with the increased the antioxidant activity needed methanol and 2,2-diphenyl-
environmental consciousness, implies that cosmetic brands 1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) solution.
and manufacturers will have to adopt more sustainable
Research design
production processes and components to meet the
customers' needs and thrive in the industry. Therefore, The peel-off gel mask was formulated using a completely
interest in organic, sustainable, environmentally friendly randomized design with Jicama starch at five
personal care products will continue developing (Amberg concentrations (%) and three replications, as illustrated
and Fogarassy, 2019). Facial care and cosmetic products below:
that use active substances from natural sources are highly Five variant formulations were made with increased
recommended (Alves et al., 2020). starch concentration at 1%, 2%, 3%, and 4%; a control
Currently, the manufacture of cosmetic products is sample was without starch. In this process, PVA was used
overgrowing. The peel-off gel mask is one type of skin care as a film-forming agent, CMC and flour from tubers acted
treatment that is popular due to its simple usage, and it is as a gel base, methylparaben was a preservative, propylene
able to impact directly on the skin with functions that glycol was a humectant, and distilled water and alcohol
include cleaning the pores and moisturizing and nourishing were solvents. Treatments of the addition of flour
facial skin. Peel-off gel masks are practical because they concentration (% based on total basis) used in this study
easily peel off and lift like an elastic membrane (Rum, were described in table 1.
Suherman, and Idar, 2021). Moreover, this mask can help Table 1. Treatments of addition of starch concentration (%
the skin improve hydration and treat skin issues like based on total basis) in the peel-off gel base formulations
wrinkles, aging, acne, and large pores. It cleanses and Formulations
moisturizes the skin and helps relax facial muscles as a Compositions
F0 F1 F2 F3 F4
cleanser, freshener, moisturizer, and softener for facial skin Starch (%) 0 1 2 3 4
(Luthfiyana, Nurhikma, and Hidayat, 2019; Vieira et al., CMC (%) 2
2009). PVA (%) 13
Jicama (Pachyhizus erosus), a research-targeted Propylene glycol (mL) 10
material, is an excellent carbohydrate source and contains Methyl Paraben (%) 0.2
various active substances, especially vitamin C (Noman et Distilled water (mL) 100
Ethanol 96% (mL) 4
al., 2007). Other isoflavonoids, considered natural
sunscreens, can protect and inhibit skin aging
(Lukitaningsih, E., and Holzgrabe, 2014). According to the Preparations of starch and gel formulations
above reasons, this research aimed to formulate and The starch from Jicama was processed based on the method
evaluate the characteristic of peel-off gel masks from described by Warnida (2017) with some modifications.
Jicama. Briefly, the fresh tubers from West Sumatra, Indonesia,
with 5 – 6 months of growing, were collected, washed,
METHOD
blended, and filtrated. The precipitate was kept to dry in
Tools and materials the oven (below 50 oC) until the moisture content was less
The tools used in this study were analytical grade, baker than 10%. Obtained starch was sieved with a 100-mesh
glass, graduated cylinders, a volume pipette, laboratory sieve.
20x20 cm glass, a sieve, a thermometer, a pestle, and The gel procedure was carried out according to Asben
mortar. This research used such instruments as a heating and Kasim (2020) report with some modifications.
magnetic stirrer (AREC by Velp Scientifica), pH meter Polyvinyl Alcohol (PVA) was dissolved in hot distilled
(OHAUS Starter 3100), viscometer (B-One BMV 102M), water at 80 - 90ºC with constant mechanical agitation until
analytical balance (Ohaus PX224 Pioneer), air drying oven homogeneous (container A). Carboxymethyl Cellulose
(BIOBASE), laminar air flow cabinets (Telstar BV-100), (CMC) was introduced into distilled water at room
autoclave sterilizer (Hiclave HVE-50, Hirayama), temperature until it was completely soluble (container B).
incubator (Memmert BE 600 Incubator) and UV-Vis Propylene glycol and methylparaben were incorporated
spectrophotometer (Agilent Cary 8454 UV-Vis). with PVA in hot distilled water and stirred until
The raw material used in this research was starch homogeneous (container C). Gelatinized solutions (the
extracted from Jicama (Pachyrhizus erosus). Chemicals for starch suspension was heated until it expanded and formed
making the peel-off gel mask consisted of Polyvinyl a gel) with the proper concentrations were added according
Alcohol (PVA), Carboxymethyl Cellulose (CMC), to the research treatments, and ethanol was added as the
propylene glycol and methyl paraben and distilled water. last step of gel preparation.
The chemical properties including antimicrobial activity
test were sterile NA, bacteria Staphylococcus aureus; and
Characterization of Gel Preparations Where Ab was the absorbance of the blank, and As was the
absorbance of the sample.
Acidity Degree (pH) test
Homogeneity, irritation, and organoleptic test
The sample was taken and dissolved in distilled water with
a ratio of 1:1 based on the method of Pinto et al. (2021) These tests will be performed on a panellist with 30
with some modifications. Then, the pH of the solution was volunteers aged 18 - 35 years. The homogeneity was
measured using a pH meter. checked visually. The gels were placed between glasses,
then pressed and observed. The sample is homogenous if
Spreadability Test
no coarse grains or secondary particle aggregation is seen.
A total of 1 g of the sample was placed carefully on the
glass measuring 20×20cm, then covered with another glass Table 2. The organoleptic description of the peel-off gels
with a weight of 150 g on it and allowed to stand and Parameters Score Description
measured the diameter of the gel was after 1 minute Opalescent or semitransparent color
5
(Nurman et al., 2019). and homogeneous gel
Light-modified color and
Viscosity Test 4
homogeneous gel
A maximum of 100 mL of gel was put into a container and Color and Light-modified color and semi-
3
consistency homogeneous gel
then placed on a viscometer with spindle no. 4 installed at
Intensely modified color and semi-
the appropriate speeds. Recording the viscosity value was 2
homogeneous gel
shown on the tool (Nurman et al., 2019). Intensely modified color and
1
Peeling time test heterogeneous gel
5 Normal smell
1 g of sample of the sample was weighed and spread using 4 Light-modified smell
a mask brush over an area of 6.0 x 3 cm on skin parts (hand 3 Intensely modified smell
Odor
or forearm) and let dry until the film could be removed and 2 Without smell or smell of chemical
the time was recorded (Vieira et al., 2009). Bad smell or very strong smell of
1
chemical
Antibacterial activity test Very pleasant touch with a cool
5
feeling and very easy application
The antimicrobial activity of the sample was determined
Pleasant touch with a cool feeling
by using the protocol from the Kirby-Bauer disk diffusion Touch 4
and easy application
susceptibility method. Briefly, spread evenly 0.1 ml performance
3 Quite sticky or fluidic touch
microorganism culture (Staphylococcus aureus) 10-6 CFU 2 Unpleasant touch
on the 15 mL sterile nutrition agar (NA) surface. Then, disc 1 Very unpleasant touch
papers extracted from the sample were put in a petri dish. 5 Very like
The petri dish was incubated for 24 hours at a temperature 4 Like
of 37ºC. After that, the diameter of the inhibition zone was Favorite 3 Normal
observed and measured (Hudzicki, 2012). 2 Less like
1 Dislike
Antioxidant activity test
An irritation test based on the modifications from the
This assay was checked by calculating the inhibition method of (Farage et al., 2004) was carried out by applying
percentage of DPPH radical scavenging activity. The a certain amount of sample on the skin surface (on the hand
procedure was conducted with modifications from Cao and or forearm skin) and observing the results. After 24 - 48
Song (2019). Briefly, 2 mL of each sample was diluted hours of the application, and did not cause unwanted skin
with methanol, and then 2 mL of the clear solution was reactions, and this gel was considered not to irritate. The
mixed with 0.5 mL of DPPH solution (0.36 mM) and 0.5 organoleptic test aimed to evaluate the panel's acceptability
mL of methanol. Meanwhile, 2.5 mL methanol was mixed of the product by giving a score followed by the hedonic
with 0.5 mL of 0.36 mM DPPH radical solution for the scale ranging from 1 to 5 (Mosquera Tayupanta et al.,
blank. The mixture was shaken vigorously and incubated 2018) with some modifications. The consistency and the
at room temperature in the dark for 15 minutes. The color are checked visually. The odor criteria are evaluated
inhibition percentage of DPPH radical scavenging activity manually by smelling the product. Touch performance was
was determined by a UV-Vis spectrophotometer at a observed by applying the product to the skin surface.
wavelength of 517 nm and calculated by the equation (1):
Data analysis
𝐴𝑏 − 𝐴𝑠
Inhibition (%) = × 100 (1) The collected data was analyzed using Microsoft Excel
𝐴𝑏
2010 software for calculating and graphing and
Stagraphics Centurion XVI software for analysis variance concentration of starch (15.73 mm). According to Morales
(ANOVA). et al. (2003), the activity of the antimicrobial inhibition
zone was grouped into four categories, namely weak
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION activity (<5 mm), moderate (5-10 mm), strong or active
(>10-20 mm), very strong or very active (>20-30 mm).
Physicochemical properties of the raw material Therefore, all the formulas exhibited active antibacterial
Starch isolated from Jicama was added to the research activity against the growth of Staphylococcus aureus.
formulas for peel-off gel preparations. Table 3 shows the According to the results, Jicama starch shows potential in
moisture content (%), pH value, and the inhibition continuously studying the antibacterial properties and the
percentage of the free radical 2,2-diphenyl-1- application in product development from these crops and
picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) of antioxidant activity of the raw in incorporating with other antibacterial agents to enhance
material. this functional property.
Table 4. Effect of Jicama starch concentrations on the pH Table 5. Effect of Jicama starch concentrations on the
value and peeling time of peel-off gel formulas spreadability and viscosity of peel-off gel formulas
Concentrations pH value Peeling time (min) Concentrations Spreadability (cm) Viscosity (cPs)
0% (control) 5.61a ± 0.01 36.67a ± 0.58 0% (control) 6.81a ± 0.02 14626.7e ± 110
1% 5.58b ± 0.02 31.67b ± 0.58 1% 6.76b ± 0.02 19783.3d ± 76
2% 5.56bc ± 0.01 28.67c ± 0.58 2% 6.55c ± 0.02 21800.0c ± 100
3% 5.54cd ± 0.01 26.67d ± 0.58 3% 6.43d ± 0.02 25183.3b ± 176
4% 5.53d ± 0.01 24.67e ± 0.58 4% 6.23e ± 0.02 32866.7a ± 104
The mean in the same column followed by different letters The mean in the same column followed by different letters
are significantly different (P < 0.05) are significantly different (P < 0.05)
Acidity degree Viscosity
The pH value of acidity degree is one of the crucial Viscosity, or the resistance of a liquid to flow, is a critical
parameters of the cosmetic. The results were showed in part of maintaining a consistent and controlling quality of
Table 4; the acidity degree of the formulas was the product in the cosmetics industry. Further, viscosity
significantly different (P < 0.05). The pH value decreased can impact a cosmetic product's chemical stability in its
while increasing the addition of starch concentrations, and packaging over time (Epstein, 2009). The results of the
this trend is because of the low pH value of the raw material data analysis in Table 5 reported significant differences (P
(pH 4.92). This test showed that all formulas are around < 0.05) in the viscosity evaluation from the samples.
5.5 to 5.6, whereas the normal skin pH ranges from 4.5 to Viscosity increased when adding more concentration of
6.5 (Nurman et al., 2019). It can be stated that the pH of all Jicama starch. The trend is caused due to the morphology
formulas met the pH requirement of the Indonesian and gelatinization characteristics of Jicama starch with
National Standard (SNI, 2007) in facial skin products to high viscosity and sticky consistency (Stevenson, Jane, and
ensure safety and not disturb the function of the skin. Inglett, 2007). All the formulas had the viscous range from
14626.7 to 3232866.7 cPs (Table 5), which ensured the
Peeling time
standard viscosity according to the Indonesian National
The peeling time observation showed that the gel formulas Standard (SNI, 2007), which is 2000 - 50000 cPs.
with the addition of Jicama starch were less than 30
Homogeneity, irritation and organoleptic test
minutes of drying time (Table 4), and it was still acceptable
and considered not too long. From the data, the peel-off gel Based on the evaluation of the homogeneity and irritation
mask meets a good drying time of between 15-30 minutes test can be seen in Table 6. The results showed that the gels
(Vieira et al., 2009). The higher the concentration, the formulated from Jicama starch were homogenous. In
significantly shorter the peeling time (P < 0.05). The addition, all formulations did not show any irritating
decrease in peeling time can be explained due to the higher reaction or side effects on the skin after doing the
water absorption and solubility of Jicama starch (Martınez- organoleptic test.
Bustos et al., 2005). The gels were thicker and denser when
Table 6. Effects of Jicama starch concentrations on
adding more starch concentration in the proper
homogeneity and irritation
gelatinization conditions, which made the gel stay stable
Starch concentrations Homogeneity Irritation
on the surface and increased the speed of evaporation. 0% (control) H No irritate
Spreadability 1% H No irritate
2% H No irritate
The spreadability of gel preparations is defined as the gel's 3% H No irritate
ability to spread on the skin's surface, which is observed 4% H No irritate
through the spread diameter. A good spread diameter H: homogenous
ranges from 5 - 7 cm (Nurman et al., 2019). The spread
The organoleptic evaluation is illustrated in Figure 3. All
diameters of gel preparations ranged from 6.23 - 6.81 cm
formulations were stated in the homogenous consistency
(Table 5). The concentration affected the spreadability; the
and the color with the light-modified from opalescent or
higher the concentration, the significantly smaller the
semitransparent color for the color and consistency
diameter (P < 0.05). The gel consistency tended to increase
parameter. For the odor, most participants in the panellist
the viscosity and became thicker, reducing the gel's
agreed that the control sample (without starch) had a strong
spreading capacity. Therefore, the results indicated that all
smell of chemicals. The formulas with low concentrations
the gel formulas had good spreadability.
still had the scent of chemicals and a very light smell of the
raw material. The formula with a high suggestion for a
pleasant touch with a cool feeling and easy application was
4% of Jicama starch. Meanwhile, the formulas with a
92 Nguyen Ngoc Thanh Nguyen et al. DOI: 10.25077/ijasc.6.2.88-94.2022
INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF AGRICULTURAL SCIENCES VOL 6 NO. 2 (2022) 88 - 94
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