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Natural Dyes: Extraction and Applications

Article in International Journal of Current Microbiology and Applied Sciences · January 2021
DOI: 10.20546/ijcmas.2021.1001.195

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 Int.J.Curr.Microbiol.App.Sci (2021) 10(01): 1669-1677

International Journal of Current Microbiology and Applied Sciences

ISSN: 2319-7706 Volume 10 Number 01 (2021)
Journal homepage: http://www.ijcmas.com

Review Article https://doi.org/10.20546/ijcmas.2021.1001.195

Natural Dyes: Extraction and Applications

Lizamoni Chungkrang*, Smita Bhuyan and Ava Rani Phukan

Department of Textiles and Apparel Designing, College of Community Science, Assam

Agricultural University, Jorhat, Assam, India
*Corresponding author

ABSTRACT

Keywords
Coloration, Dyeing, Natural dyes are obtained from natural sources such as vegetable, animal or
Extraction, mineral matters. These dyes are generally used in coloration of textiles,
Mordant, Natural
dye etc. food, cosmetics and drugs. This article attempts to reviews the
classification of natural dyes according to the method of application
Article Info available natural dye sources, mordant and its classification, different
mordanting methods, extraction methods, dyeing methods and advantages
Accepted:
12 December 2020
and disadvantages of natural dyes have been discussed.
Available Online:
10 January 2021

Introduction German Legislation (Consumer Goods

Ordinance). Netherlands followed a ban with
Presently there is a great demand for the use effect from August 1, 1996 on similar lines.
of natural colours throughout the world due to European Union is likely to impose ban on
non-biodegradable and carcinogenic nature these toxic dyes shortly. India has also banned
associated with synthetic dyes (Chungkrang the use of specific azo-dyes and under
and Bhuyan, 2020). They are not produce any notification ―sufficient legal teeth‖ had been
undesired by-products and at the same time given for taking panel action against those
they help in regenerating the environment, who use these dyes (Kapoor and
therefore natural dyes are the safe dyes Pushpangadan, 2001; Singh et al., 2006).
(Akkewar, 1999; Darwekar et al., 1999).
Government of Germany was the first to take Natural dyes are important since they are
initiative to put ban on azo-dyes for better than synthetic dyes in many ways.
manufacturing, dyeing and importing textiles Undeniably, the natural dyes are healthier
and other consumer goods dyed with these products, purely because they do not comprise
dyes from January 1, 1995 by the act of chemicals damaging to fitness (Baliarsingh et

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al., 2013). These dyes are collected from Mordant dyes: Mordant dyes are those dyes,
nature and no need to apply manufacturing which have affinity for the mordanted fibres.
process to prepare them. These dyes are easily Most of the natural dyes yield different shades
decomposed in nature after using and they do of colours with different mordants. The
not pollute the environment while destroying mordant dyes are classified as monogenetic
them after end use (Alam et al., (2020). The and polygenetic. Monogenetic dye produce
natural dyes are used mainly in coloration of only one colour according to the mordant
textiles, food, drugs and cosmetics. Small present on the fiber or applied along with the
quantities of dyes are also used in coloration dye materials. Polygenetic dye produces
of paper, leather, shoe polish, wood, cane, different colours according to the mordant
candles and such other products requiring employed.
coloration (Gulrajani, 2001).
Vat dyes: The vat dyes derive the name from
Classification of natural dyes according to the fermented wooden called ‗vat‘ which was
the method of application used at one time for reducing the dye and
converting it into soluble form. The process
The natural dyes can be classified into three of the solubilization of the dye is called as
groups according to the method of application ‗vatting‘. The soluble form of the dye is
(Gulrajani and Gupta, 1992; Dedhia, 1998; called as leuco dye. The leuco form of the dye
Samanta and Konar, 2012; Jihad, 2014). is not only soluble in water but also has an
affinity for the natural fibers. The dye colour
Direct or substantive dyes is pale yellow but the true colour is produced
only on treatment with hot soap solution.
A dye, soluble in water can be taken up They include the most ancient of dyes such as
directly by the material to be dyed without indigo and tyrian purple etc.
any pretreatment, is known as direct or
substantive dye. These dyes can be applied Disperse dyes: Natural dye has not been
directly in a hot aqueous dye solution without classified as disperse dye, however by looking
the use of fixing agent or mordant. These dyes at the structure and solubility characteristics
are mainly used for cellulosic fibers, protein of the natural dyes it is felt that some of the
fibers and polyamides. Examples of direct natural dyes can be classified as disperse
natural dyes are turmeric, annatto, berberry, dyes. Disperse dye has a low relative
safflower etc. The direct dyes are further molecular mass, low solubility to the dye
classified into acid dyes and basic dyes. molecule. These dyes have hydroxyl and
amino groups which imparts some solubility
Acid dyes: These dyes are used for wool and to the dye molecule. One such dye could be
silk and are applied in the acidic medium. Lawsone. Many other flavones and
They have the structure of either sulphonic or anthraquinone dyes can qualify to be
carboxylic group. classified as disperse dyes.

Basic dyes: These dyes on ionization give Mordant and its classification: Nearly all
coloured action, which form electrovalent natural dyes require mordants to give
bonds with the carboxylic acid groups of wool substantativity. The term mordant has been
and silk. These dyes are applied in neutral to derived from the Latin word mordeo, which
mildly acidic pH. means ―to bite‖ or to ―take hold of (Gohl and
Vilensky, 1983). The majority of natural dyes

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need a chemical in the form of metal salts to Oil or Oil Mordants: Oil –mordants are
create on affinity between the fiber and the mainly used in the dyeing of Turkey red
pigment. These chemicals are known as colour from madder. The main function of the
mordants (Bisht and Goel, 1999; Singh and oil-mordant is to form a complex with alum
Srivastava, 2015; Vankar et al., 2009). used as the main mordant. Since alum is
soluble in water and does not have affinity for
Classification cotton, it is easily washed out from the treated
fabric. The naturally occurring oils contain
Three type‘s mordants are used in dyeing fatty acids such as palmitic, stearic, oleic,
textiles materials, metallic mordants, tannin ricinolic etc. and their glycerides. The –
and tannic acid and oil mordants (Agarwal COOH groups of fatty acids react with metal
and Patel, 2000). salts and get converted into –COOM, where
M denotes the metal, for instance in the case
Metal Salts or Metallic Mordants: Several of alum it would be Al. subsequently, it was
different metal salts can be used for found that the treatment of oils with
mordanting such as Alum (Potassium concentrated sulphuric acid produces
aluminum sulphate), Copper (Copper sulphonated oils which possess better metal
sulphate), Chrome (Potassium dichromate), binding capacity than the natural oils due to
Iron (Ferrous sulphate) and Tin (Stannous the introduction of sulphonic acid group, -
chloride, Stannic chloride) SO3H. The sulphonic acid can react with
metal salts to produce –SO3M. The bound
Tannins and Tannic acid: Tannin and metal can then form a complex with the
Tannic acid is present in the barks, leaves, mordant dye such as madder to give Turkey
fruits and galls of many plants. The word red colour of superior fastness and hue.
‗tannin‘ comes from the early French word
Tan, which means bark of an oak. The term Mordanting Methods
tannin was introduced by Sequin in the year
1976 to indicate various plants extracts which Mordanting is classified on the basis of
have capacity to convert hides and skins into application time of mordants (Gohl and
leather. Tannins are classified into two Villensky, 1983). These are pre-mordanting
categories: (before dyeing), simultaneous mordanting and
post mordanting (after dyeing).
(i) Condensed or flavonoid (Catechol type)
tannins based on polymeric flavor, obtained Pre-mordanting: In this method, the textile
from acacia catechu. Tannins such as tannic material is first immersed into the mordant
acid, harda etc are considered as natural solution for 30 to 60 minutes at the room
mordants. temperature or higher temperature with a
liquor ratio of 1:5 to 1:20. Then dyed the
(ii) Hydrolysable (Pyrogallot type) tannins textile material treated with mordant. After
based on esters of gallic acid, obtained from dyeing, the dyed material is wash.
myrobalan fruit, oak bark, gallnuts,
pomegranate rind etc. Simultaneous mordanting: For this method,
the textile material, mordant and dye are
In the same plant different parts like bark, nut, immersed in a dyebath simultaneously. For
leaf and wood may contain different types of the optimization of dyeing conditions, dyeing
tannins (Dwivedi, 1993). process variables can be studied for the

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specific fibre-mordant-natural dye system in used which helps in hydrolysis of glycosides

order to improve the colour yield of textiles. resulting in better extraction. Acidic method
After dyeing, the textile material is wash is used in extraction of tesu natural dye from
properly. tesu flower. Alkaline medium is used for
those colour extraction which contain
Post-mordanting: In this method, the dyeing phenolic groups. Extraction of colour from lac
process is carried out on the textile material insect, annatto seeds, safflower petals are
without mordant. After dyeing, the dyed extracted by this method.
fabric is treated in another bath containing the
mordant solution. Treatment condition may Ultrasonic microwave extraction: In this
vary depending on the type of fibre, dye and extraction method, raw material is treated in
mordant system being used. After dyeing, aqueous solution using microwave or
wash the textile material properly. ultrasonic rays, so that the high temperature,
less time and faster rate of extraction can be
Extraction methods of natural dyes done. Colour from butterfly pea and annatto
seeds are extracted by using this method.
Extraction of colour materials from natural
resources is a complicated process. They need By fermentation: In this extraction method,
specific technique to extract dye from their micro-organisms present raw materials are
original sources. The different techniques for used to carry out the fermentation and thus
extraction of natural colourants are as help the extracting metod. Colour from
follows: turmeric, indigo, annatto seeds extracted by
using this method. Time consuming, bad
Aqueous extraction: In this method, if the smell due to microbial action, immediate
raw material is in dry form, broken into small extraction of colour after harvesting are some
pieces or powdered by grinding and soaked in disadvantages of this method
wate to loosen the cell structure. If the raw
material is in wet form then it is chopped into Enzymatic Extraction: Commercially
fine pieces or grinded to fine paste. Then available enzymes including cellulase,
boiled and is filtered to remove the non- amylase, and pectinase have been used to
colouring matters from the dye liquor. Both loosen the binding material present in natural
can be used easily to impart colour in materials like bark, roots or any hard part of
different things. plant.

There are some disadvantages associated with Solvent extraction: Organic solvents like
aqueous extraction method like time acetone, petroleum, ether, chloroform and
consuming for extracting colour, high ethanol are used in the extraction of natural
temperature requirement, required large dyes. Solvent extraction method is more
volume of water, heat sensitive colouring efficient than aqueous method. The yield of
substances gets reduced at high temperature dye is good quality, required low temperature
low dye yield, only water soluble colouring and the quantity of water requirement is also
components can be extracted etc. less.

Acidic or alkaline extraction: Extraction of Supercritical Fluid Extraction: In this

dye is done under acidic or alkaline medium. extraction method, a fluid having physical
For this dilute acidic or alkaline can also be properties between gas and fluid is used. It

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has low surface tension, low viscosity and Advantages and disadvantages of natural
good diffusivity properties which results dyes
better interaction with the substrate.
Advantages of natural dyes
Dyeing methods
Usually biodegradable and renewable also
Conventional Dyeing System Non-toxic, non-allergic and non-carcinogenic
as these are obtained from animals or
Textile dyeing started in past carried out vegetable matters without any chemical
conventionally. Textile materials were processing
directly processed with the dye bath at high Easy to extract and purify
temperatures. Coloration method for textiles No disposal problems with natural dye waste
using chemically formed gels with Colours produced by natural dyes are usually
considerable freedom for making color soft, lustrous and soothing to the eyes
designs and precise pattern prints, and can be
used with conventional dyeing and printing Disadvantages of natural dyes
equipment was developed. With the time,
dyeing also matured with the development of Non-standardized colour recipes and methods
optimization of dyeing parameters, and in Requires skilled workmanship and therefore
recent times advanced technologies evolved natural dyes are costly
like plasma treatment and enzymatic Applicable to natural fibres only (cotton,
processing etc. (Bohrn and Moggio, 1980). wool, silk and linen)
Inadequate fastness properties
Advanced Dyeing Systems Some of the mordants are harmful

Advanced technologies or methods are Application of natural dyes

trending in dyeing in recent times owing to
their improved results over the conventional Natural dyes are generally applied in
dyeing. Plasma treatment and ultrasonic industries such as textile, food, leather
dyeing methods are technically advanced and (Sivakumar et al., 2011), cosmetics (Yusuf et
sustainability compatible methods used in al., 2017), pharmaceutical (Chigurupati et al.,
technologically evolved textile industry. 2002) etc.
Improved results in ultrasound-assisted
dyeing are generally attributed to cavitations According to the literature, natural dyes such
phenomena and other mechanical effects are as Walnut shells (Mirjalili and Karimi, 2013),
produced such as dispersion (breaking up of Onion shells (MIAH et al., 2016; Nurunnesa
aggregates with high relative molecular et al., 2018), Cassia singueana (Teklemedhin
mass), degassing (expulsion of dissolved or et al., 2018) Curcuma longa L. (Ibrahim et
entrapped air from fiber capillaries), diffusion al., 2010), Senegalia catechu (Ansari et al.,
(accelerating the rate of diffusion of dye 2018), Butea monosperma (Daberao et al.,
inside the fiber) and intense agitation of the 2016), Hibiscus Rosa Sinensis (Bose and Nag,
liquid. 2012), Ziziphus jujuba Mill. (Chungkrang et
al., 2018), Orange & Lemon peels (Kumar
The acceleration in dyeing rates observed by and Dhinakaran, 2017), Quercus infectoria
many workers might be the cumulative effects Oliv. (Shahid et al., 2012), Saraca asoca and
of all these factors (Vajnhandl and Marechal, Albizia lebbeck (Baliarsingh et al., 2012) and
2005).
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so forth produce natural pigments are used in In conclusion due to the non-biodegradable
textile dyeing industries. and carcinogenic nature associated with the
synthetic dyes, people started using natural
In addition to their biodegradability and colours. Textile industry is the main field for
compatibility with the environment, natural application of natural dyes but it can also be
dyes have been recently discovered to exhibit used in other fields such as foods, cosmetics,
other functional properties such as drugs, paper printing etc. There are many
antimicrobial activity (Khan et al., 2012; research works that has been carried out by
Shahid et al., 2013), anti-fungal, anti-viral many researchers/scientists belonging to
activity (Gupta et al., 2004), insect repellent industry, small and medium entrepreneurs,
(Kato et al., 2004; Ali et al., 2013), UV social organizations (NGO‘s), Government
protection (Sun and Tang, 2011; Hou et al., organizations, researchers in various
2013) and deodorizing agents (Lee et al., educational institutes and research
2009), dye-sensitized solar cells (Zhou et al., organizations etc. on the revival of natural
2011; Narayan,2012). dyes, but more researches are required to
standardize the methods for its application.
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How to cite this article:

Lizamoni Chungkrang, Smita Bhuyan and Ava Rani Phukan. 2021. Natural Dyes: Extraction
and Applications. Int.J.Curr.Microbiol.App.Sci. 10(01): 1669-1677.
doi: https://doi.org/10.20546/ijcmas.2021.1001.195

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