INSULATION

HOME SERIES

INSIDE
INSULATION CHECKLIST . . . . . . . . . . 4
VENTILATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
ATTICS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
BASEMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
FLOORS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
WALLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
AIR DUCTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
 The average Arkansas household spends more than half of its
annual energy bill on heating and cooling. These costs can be drasti-
cally reduced by using energy wisely and making energy-efficient
home improvements. Insulating your home is a major step toward
reducing energy costs.

INSULATION

What Is It and How Can It Save Energy?

Insulation is a material used to slow down heat flow through a
building’s envelope. The building envelope consists of the walls,
attic/roof, windows and floor of a home –– basically everything that
surrounds the space you want to keep warm in the winter and cool in
the summer.
Insulation works all year long to make your home more comfort-
able and energy efficient. In the winter, it slows heat loss and helps
prevent condensation build up in your home. During summer months,
insulation reduces heat gain and helps keep your home cool.
Adding insulation to you home can cut your heating and cooling
costs anywhere from 15% to 45% depending on such factors as the
original amount of insulation in your home, house size, air leaks, and
personal energy use and living habits. Many variables affect the
amount you’ll save, but the fact remains, insulating your home is an
energy-wise investment.

Financing Energy Improvements

Consider making energy improvements when refinancing. They may
also be included when applying for a home improvement loan. The
Energy Improvement Mortgage (EIM) was developed by the lending
industry to give the buyer of an existing home the opportunity to borrow
more money at the time of sale or refinancing to make their home more
energy-efficient. The lending industry now recognizes that saving ener-
gy reduces the cost of home ownership and frees up more money to
assist in paying the mortgage, in addition to increasing the comfort,
durability and value of the home.
The extra dollars borrowed to add additional insulation, replace the
old heating/cooling system, or tighten the home are rolled into the new
mortgage and spread over the mortgage term (usually 30 years).

Tighten Before You Insulate

Before insulating, it’s necessary to stop air leaks in your home.
While insulation is an important step, controlling air leaks is the best
way to extend the life of your home, as well as save energy, money and
increase your home’s comfort. If you don’t tighten up your home
first, money spent on insulation may be wasted.

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 Most people think they should caulk the outside of their home to pro-
tect it from the elements. This is true, but it is also important to protect
your home from losing conditoned air to the outside. During the winter
months, moist interior air can enter the walls and ceiling through cracks
and holes causing condensation to build up in the walls, damaging or
destroying the insulation, wiring, wood and other building materials.
There are many places where air can leak into and out of your home.
A good rule of thumb is to seal the attic and basement air leaks first. The
check list below will help you locate common trouble spots. For more
detailed information on caulking and weatherstripping, consult the Home
Series issue Home Tightening. Figure 1: Recessed lights, wiring, plumb-
ing and other openings in insulated ceil-
Air Leak Trouble Spots ings and walls can result in a tremen-
dous amount of heat loss.
The Attic:
• Holes in the attic floor and walls
• Doors and hatches to the attic
• Plumbing stacks
• Attic knee walls/storage drawers
The Basement:
•Around the sill plate and band joists
•Basement windows
band
•Ducts/furnace ducts joist
•Openings in the basement ceiling and other holes sill
plate
The Main Level:
• Around the chimney and fireplace dampers foundation
• Around windows, doors, trim and baseboards
• Electrical outlets and other exterior wall holes
The Outside:
• Cracks in siding and exterior Figure 2: Get rid of drafts along the floor
• Windows and doors by caulking along the sill plate and band
joist in the basement.
Before You Get Started
Whether you do it yourself or hire a professional, insulation can be
added to almost any home. While every house is different, the basic
rule of insulating is the same for all homes: Insulation should be
installed on any surface separating a heated space from an unheat-
ed space. Figure 4 shows the areas of a house that should be insulated.
Recommendations for the amount of insulation to install vary
according to such factors as climate conditions, the area of your home
being insulated and the kinds of materials used in your home’s
construction. The following insulation checklist gives recommend- sheet metal
ations for a typical Arkansas home. Of course, not all houses have all
of the building elements shown. Note: Even if a house already has
some insulation in these areas, it may not be enough. Figure 3: Heat can escape around the
chimney if it isn’t properly sealed.

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 Understanding R-Values
Insulation is rated by R-values. The R-value (or thermal resistance)
of insulation is a measure of its ability to resist heat loss or heat gain.
The higher the R-value, the better it insulates. It is important to note
that an insulation’s R-value is based on its performance in a 70°F envi-
ronment with no air movement. Ironically, when you need insulation
the most, it is not under those ideal temperatures or conditions.
1 Therefore, the rated R-value may be much higher than the
2a 2b effective R-value if the insulation is not properly installed and/or if
3 air leaks are not stopped before the insulation is added. Some types
of insulation, such as blown-in wet cellulose and polyurethane and
4 polyicynene insulation combine both air sealing and insulation in one
5
step. These products’ rated and effective R-values are very similar, and
6 7 they have a good performance record.

Figure 4: Where to insulate. Insulation Checklist

Shown below are different surfaces which, if found in your home,
1—Ceilings/Attics (also Dormer should be insulated to the suggested R-values for Arkansas.
ceilings) with cold spaces
above: R-30-38.
❑ Ceilings/attics (also dormer ceilings) with cold spaces above:
R-30 to R-38.
2a-2b—Rafters and/or knee walls of a
finished attic: R-19+. ❑ Rafters and knee walls of a finished attic: R-19 or more.
3—Exterior walls; walls between *Note: Air can bypass knee walls and follow the length of the
heated and unheated spaces; rafters. Use extra caution to get insulation to the outer ends of
dormer walls: R-13. the rafters to create a sealed area.
4—Floors over open or unheated
basement/crawl spaces: R-19+. ❑ Exterior walls, walls between heated and unheated spaces; dor-
5—Perimeter of a concrete slab mer walls: R-13 or more.
close to grade level: R-5, interior ❑ Floors over open or unheated crawl spaces: R-19 or more.
or exterior.
6/7—Interior or exterior of a finished
❑ Floors over unheated basements (basements with no boiler,
or heated basement: R-7.
furnace or woodstove): R-19 or more.
❑ Perimeter of a concrete slab close to grade level: R-5 or more.
❑ Interior of a finished or heated basement: R-7 to R-10 or more.
❑ Exterior of a finished or heated basement: R-7 to R-10 or more.

Choosing the Right Insulation

Any material with a relatively high resistance to heat flow can be
considered an insulator. See Table A for more details on the various
forms and types of insulation.
Sprayed Insulation: Includes polyurethane, polyicynene and wet,
dense-packed cellulose and requires professional installation. Wet cel-
lulose is used in open walls and attics. Polyurethane and polyicynene
can be used for both finished and open walls, attics and on the under-
sides of floors. Both seal air leaks and insulate in one step and have a
high effective R-value.

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 TABLE A: INSULATION TYPES AND CHARACTERISTICS

Type Model Rated-Value Per Inch Where To Use

Sprayed Polyurethane R-4.7 per inch Open frame walls,

Polyicynene R-3.6 per inch floors and ceilings,
(Icynene) around windows and
Wet dense packed R-3.7 per inch doors; used both
cellulose during construction
and renovation.

Loose fill Fiberglass or R-2.7 per inch Unfinished attics,

Rock Wool uninsulated and
Vermiculite R-1.8 per inch existing walls
Cellulose R-3.7 per inch

Rigid board Expanded R-4.2 per inch Basement walls, new

Polystyrene construction frame
(Beadboard) walls; commonly used
Extruded R-5 per inch between siding and
Polystyrene studs, cathedral
Polyurethane or R-7.2 per inch ceilings
Polyisocyanurate

Batts & Fiberglass R-3/in.—low density Unfinished attics,

Blankets Rock Wool R-3.8/in.—medium density rafters, underside of
R-4.3/in.—high density floors, between studs

Sources: Cooperative Extension Service, U.S. Dept. of Energy.

Loose Fill (poured in): Fiberglass, mineral wool, cellulose. Used for
unfinished attic floors.
Loose Fill (blown in): Fiberglass, mineral wool or cellulose (dry). Used
for unfinished or finished attic floors, undersides of floors and finished
frame walls. There can be problems with settling.
Rigid Board: There are four main types:
• Expanded polystyrene (Bead Board)
• Extruded polystyrene (Styrofoam)
• Polyurethane
• Polyisocyanurate
Used primarily on wall framing, under concrete slab floors and on ma-
sonry basement walls. To ensure fire safety, these materials must be
covered with fire-rated gypsum wallboard. To achieve a high effective
R-value, seams must be taped.

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 Batts/Blankets: Includes fiberglass and mineral wool, with or without
vapor barriers. Used to insulate unfinished attics, undersides of floors
and open walls. Blankets are more difficult to handle than batts because
of their size. A tight fit is necessary to gain a high effective
R-value; not appropriate for air sealing around windows and doors.
two types Shopping for Insulation
of gable vents
It is important to remember when buying insulation that the prod-
uct with the highest R-value per inch may not be the most cost-
effective. For example, when insulating a basement wall to an R-12
value, using 3 inches of an R-4 per inch insulation material might be
soffit vent
less expensive than using 2 inches of an R-6 per inch product. To get
the most insulating value for your money, compare the total costs of
turbine vent roof vent insulating an area with the same R-value.

Should You Install Your Own Insulation?

For many insulating jobs, such as those in your attic and basement,
continuous ridge vent
doing it yourself can save you money. However, some jobs — insulat-
ing walls and foundations, for example — are more difficult and time-
consuming. In those cases, professional installation may be a wise
choice.

Vapor Barriers
Since Arkansas is in a “mixed-humid” environment, it is not rec-
Figure 5: Five common attic vent ommended that a vapor barrier be installed on the “warm side of the
types. wall.” During the heating season, the flow of water vapor is from the
interior to the exterior, and in the cooling season vapor passes from the
exterior towards the interior. In the cooler northwest part of the state,
a vapor barrier is optional. In Arkansas’ climate, the warm side
changes from season to season. It is important to allow moisture to pass
through the walls by using permeable building materials (materials or
techniques that allow water vapor to pass through) on both the interior
and exterior surfaces. This allows water vapor to “flow through”
the building assembly without accumulating inside the wall or other
surface.

VENTILATION

Tightening up a house with caulking and weatherstripping, sealing

ducts and insulating can have a significant effect on the way a house
operates and greatly increase your comfort. However, as the home
becomes tighter and tighter, it is important to pay attention to ventila-
tion—exchanging indoor air with outdoor air. Signs that additional
ventilation is required: lingering odors, stuffiness and condensation on
windows.

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Spot Ventilation
Normal cooking and bathing typically produce excessive moisture
in the home. “Spot ventilation” is the use of localized fans (e.g. kitchen
and bath fans) to quickly remove pollutants at their source as they are
generated. Building codes may provide specific requirements concern-
ing spot ventilation. Recommended ventilation rates are: 50 cfm (cubic
feet per minute) for bathrooms, and 100 cfm for kitchens. Consult
with local code officials before sizing and installing spot ventilation
systems in your home

Ventilation in Attics and Crawl Spaces:

Proper ventilation is also important to protect your home from continuous
ridge vent
moisture damage. It reduces problems with condensation or moisture
build-up on the roof during the winter and can reduce cooling costs in
the summer by 10% or more. static roof
Much of the moisture that accumulates in attics during cold vent
weather comes from air leaks between the home and the attic. Warm soffit vent
moist air from the home rises through unsealed holes, and water vapor
can condense out of the air as it cools. Moisture in an unvented attic
Figure 6: Effective attic ventilation. Intake
won’t be able to pass through the roofing materials and will be trapped
venting low through the soffit and exhaust
in your attic where it can damage building materials. venting high through a continuous ridge
It is most effective to seal the leaks in the ceiling rather than to rely vent are the most effective way to ventilate
on attic ventilation to remove the moisture condensation caused by air an attic.
leaks.
Ventilation, however, is necessary to ensure proper air flow
through the attic. First, vents are needed at or near the top of the roof
(use roof, gable, turbine or continuous ridge vents). Second, vents
should be at the lower edge of the roof (use soffit vents) (Figure 5) to
allow air to circulate naturally. A combination of high and low vents or
continuous soffit vents and continuous ridge venting is the most effec-
tive option (Figure 6).
Good natural ventilation makes attic fans unnecessary. Insulated
attics without a vapor barrier need one square foot of vent area for
every 150 square feet of ceiling area (Figure 6).
Crawl spaces containing water pipes or other utilities should have
vents to the outdoors that can be opened in the summer and, if there
are no air combustion devices in the crawl space, closed tightly in the
winter to reduce heat loss. Vents at each corner of the crawl space or
basement area provide the best air circulation.

Mechanical Ventilation:
Power attic ventilators are sometime used as a last resort to solve
moisture problems and cool attics. Often these fans are overpowered
and can draw a home’s conditioned air through cracks in the ceiling to
replace the large volume of air blown out of the attic. Turbine vents
can usually do the job and require no electricity.

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 Whole-house fans pull in a large amount of humid, pollen-filled
air. Although useful during those few days a year when Arkansas’
climate is warm and dry, the fans lose heat all winter into the attic and
leak air all year long. If removal is not an option, then insulate the fan
area from below with a sheet of 2-inch-thick Styrofoam. Make sure
that the edges are sealed or gasketed to prevent air leakage.

Indoor Air Quality Specialists:

If you have concerns about your house venting properly, consid-
er having a blower door test performed. This test determines if you
have proper air pressure in your home and identifies air leaks and ven-
tilation problems. Check your local Yellow Pages and look for a con-
tractor or energy specialist who offers a blower door test.

THE ATTIC

Because a significant amount of heat can be lost through the roof,

the best place to begin insulating is the attic. This is also usually
the easiest place for “do-it-yourselfers” to begin. Access to the attic
is usually easy, and loose-fill or batt/blanket insulation can be installed
over existing insulation. Other ceiling types, such as cathedral
ceilings or finished attics, can be more difficult, and professional
installation may be necessary. If you choose to install spray-in insula-
tion, such as polyurethane, polyicynene or wet cellulose, you will
need to have it professionally installed. Different types of attics
require different methods of insulating. The following pages include
information to help you successfully install insulation in your home.

Things to Remember
Before you begin, examine the work area for water leaks or pos-
sible hazards, such as protruding nails and exposed wiring. Seal all air
leaks and water leaks before adding any insulation. If you find old,
brittle wiring, leave it alone and call an electrician to inspect it. Also,
make sure your work area is adequately ventilated.
Read the manufacturer’s instructions before installing any insu-
lating material. Some of these materials are highly flammable and
require special handling. As a fire precaution, do not smoke while
working with insulation. You will need the following:
• In an attic without a floor, pieces of lumber long enough to span
several joists and wide enough to walk on. The ceiling between the
joists is not sturdy enough to support a person.
• Portable light, such as a mechanic’s trouble light, and an extension
cord.

8
• Sharp knife or scissors, a rake to push and pull blankets to the edge
of the eaves, caulk.
• A long-sleeved shirt with collar and cuffs buttoned, gloves, hat, safety
glasses and dust mask.

Insulating an Unfinished Attic

Step 1: Prepare the area. If necessary, lay lumber across ceiling joists
to create a platform to work from. Use your portable light to
illuminate the work area.

Step 2: Assess the condition of the area.

• If the existing insulation is water damaged, remove it.
Examine the roof for leaks and repair. Also, look for any
openings in the walls or floor where air could enter. Seal any
of these openings with caulk before insulating. When warm,
moist air from the home rises, it can condense at the insula-
tion level where it meets the cooler attic air.
• Be on the lookout for wiring that looks old and brittle. Have
such wiring checked and replaced, if necessary, by a qualified
electrician.
Step 3: Calculate the area to be insulated.
Measure the area to be insulated. Multiply the length by the
width to find the area (see Area Table in Appendix, Page 18).
After taking into account any existing insulation, calculate how
much new material is needed to insulate to the desired R-value.
In Arkansas, unfinished attic floors should be insulated to a
minimum of R-30 and up to R-38.

IMPORTANT: If some insulation already exists, the additional insula-

tion should not have a vapor barrier. If batts or blankets without fac-
ings are not available, you must remove the vapor barrier facing or
slash it with a knife before installing it. If you don’t do this, the vapor
barrier will trap moisture in the insulation.
Insulation is necessary not only over the main part of the floor, but
also above stairways and pull-down stairs, around plumbing vents,
flues, electric wiring and other holes in the attic floor.

Step 4: Check existing insulation. Before adding additional insula-

tion over existing material, check to see whether the old insu-
lation has a vapor barrier and whether it is in the right place.
The vapor barrier should face downward, toward the heated
joists
portion of the house. If it’s been installed incorrectly, check its vapor barrier
condition. If the insulation is dry, turn the batt or blanket so that insulation
the vapor barrier faces downward (Figure 7). If more insulation ceilingboard

Figure 7

9
 is added, follow the instructions described in (Figure 8 and
Figure 9). If it’s wet, it must be thrown away.
Step 5: Install the insulation. Insulation should form a snug, contin-
uous barrier over the attic floor, with the only openings around
non-IC (insulation contact) recessed light fixtures and soffit
vents.

IMPORTANT: Avoid insulating closer than 3-inches to any older

(non-IC) recessed light fixtures, motors, chimneys or other heat
source. Newer recessed lights are rated as “insulation contact” (IC),
which allows insulation to completely cover them.
When using loose-fill insulation, construct sheet metal barriers
around non-IC recessed light fixtures and other such heat-producing
protrusions (Figure 11). Also, never block the soffit vents with insula-
tion. If you are using loose-fill material, install baffles to prevent insu-
vapor barrier lation from being poured or blown into the soffit vents. Blocked vents
Figure 8: Begin laying insulation at the
will lead to moisture problems.
outer edge of the attic.
For Batts or Blankets
• Begin laying insulation at the outer edge of the attic and work toward
the center, placing the insulation between ceiling joists (Figure 8).
• Lay insulation in long runs first, using leftover pieces for shorter
spaces. Cut ends of batts or blankets to fit snugly around cross brac-
ing and around plumbing stacks (Figure 10).
• If adding more than one layer, place the second layer over and at
right angles to the first layer (Figure 9).
.
For Loose Fill
• To prevent filling soffit vents with insulation, place pieces of batt or
Figure 9: Insultion may be layered over blanket insulation between the ends of joists or use commercial baf-
and at right angles to the joists.
fles installed according to the manufacturer’s directions.
• Spray or tape bright thickness markers on joists or rafters to indicate
desired installed thickness.
• If using a blower, start at the far end of the attic and use the blower’s
hose to fill all the areas between the joists. For a floored attic, use the
same procedure, but begin by removing enough center floorboards
to allow the blower’s hose to be inserted under the floor.
• If using hand-poured material, start at the outer edge of the attic and
work toward the center. Periodically level the insulation with a rake
or short board and measure its depth.

Insulating a Finished Attic

The same basic methods used for an unfinished attic can be used
when insulating a finished attic. It’s just more difficult to get the insu-
Figure 10: Install insulation snugly around
lation where it’s needed.
cross braces and protruding objects that
don’t produce heat.

10
 Follow the first four steps under Insulating an Unfinished Attic
(Page 9) Then:
Step 5: If there is no access to the areas behind knee walls and above
ceilings, you will need to cut access panels.
Step 6: Install batts behind the knee walls (minimum R-19) and
between the floor joists (minimum R-30) in the attic’s
unfinished portion behind the knee walls. Use small pieces of
foam board to prevent attic air from entering the joist area
between floors.
Step 7: Blow or pour loose-fill insulation from the top of the sloping light fixture
portion of the ceiling. The top of the knee-wall batts should loose-fill insulation
hold the insulation in place. sheet metal barrier

Step 8: Install loose-fill or batt insulation above the flat portion of the
Figure 11: Take precautions when
ceiling (R-30 to R-38). insulating around chimneys and
heat-producing protrusions, such as
Insulating Cathedral Ceilings non-IC rated light fixtures.
Insulating cathedral ceilings, A-frame houses or flat roofs is an Additionally, make sure the insula-
especially difficult job because there is little or no space between the tion doesn’t block vents.
ceiling and roof. With these type ceilings, professional installation is
recommended. These types of ceilings are also ideally suited to spray-
in insulation such as polyurethane, polyicynene and wet cellulose.
• Insulated ceiling panels are a possible solution. The panels are made
of insulation batts covered with a vapor barrier.
• Another solution is to build a wood framework to hold the insulation,
which is installed against the ceiling, covered with a polyethylene
plastic vapor barrier and new drywall. Ventilation of the space
between the cathedral and new dropped ceiling may be necessary to
avoid condensation.

THE BASEMENT

Uninsulated basements can account for as much as 30% of a

home’s total heat loss. Some Arkansas homes have basements with Figure 12: Cover sliding panels and
either concrete block or poured-concrete walls. While such walls make attic doors with insulation.
sturdy foundations, they are poor insulators and have a very low
R-value.
Before you begin any insulation projects in the basement, check
for moisture problems and air leaks. You can repair minor problems
on the inside of the foundation wall with sealant or waterproofing com-
pounds, but any serious water leaks will require more extensive repair.
In addition, down spouts should be in good order and there should be a
sufficient amount of fill dirt around the foundation to ensure water
drains away from the house.

11
 Band Joists
The band joist area (where the house’s wooden structure rests on
the cement foundation) is the best place to begin not only because it’s
the simplest and least expensive basement area to insulate, but also
because it brings the fastest return on your investment.
The wooden joists and other building materials offer only token
resistance to heat flow from your basement. The band joist area should
be insulated to R-19 (Figures 13 and 14).

How-To Instructions:
On walls that run at right angles to the floor joists.
Step 1: Caulk any air leaks.
Step 2: Measure and cut insulation to cover the joist and sill area
between each floor joist.
Step 3: Cover the sill and band joist by pressing the insulation pieces
into place without tightly compressing them.
Step 4: Staple the insulation to the sides of the joists and to the sill,
with the attached vapor barrier facing you.

On walls running parallel to the floor joists.

subflooring Step 1: Because the full length of the band joist is exposed, use long
joist insulation strips.
sill Step 2: Lay the insulation in place along the band joist, cutting off the
wall parallel to excess width, but leaving it slightly wider than the band joist.
joists
vapor barrier Step 3: Staple the insulation to the sill and the floor above at 4-inch
sill intervals. Again, the vapor barrier should be facing you. Caulk
wall at right the vapor barrier edges to prevent condensation behind the
angles to insulation.
joists
Interior Basement Walls (using batts or blankets)
Before beginning, check your local fire code for any special insu-
lation requirements. Insulating the interior of your basement’s perime-
ter walls is usually less expensive and less involved than insulating the
Figure 13: Band joist areas to be insu-
outside of the perimeter walls. Though these techniques require some
lated.
carpentry, they are generally within the means of the average do-it-
yourselfer.
siding
How-To Instructions:
subfloor
Step 1: Correct any extensive water problems before insulating. A con-
band joist
tinuous layer of 4 mm or 6 mm polyethylene plastic can also
insulation be installed against the wall before insulating for additional
sill moisture protection. Install the sheeting by stapling it to the sill
and letting it drape down along the wall.
Figure 14: Cut insulation to fit band joist
between the sill and subfloor.

12
In basements used only for storage:
Step 2: Using nailing strips (1⁄2-inch by 11⁄2-inch lumber), nail 24- or
36-inch widths of blanket insulation to the sill or band joist
(Figure 15 ).
Step 3: Cut the insulation so it cascades down the wall onto the floor
for approximately 16 inches.
In basements used for living space:
Step 2: You will need to build a stud wall against the masonry to hold
the insulation. Begin by measuring the space and figuring the
amount of material you will need. You will need:
• 2- by-4 inch lumber for vertical nailers (Figure 16).
• R-11 or R-13 batts or blankets.
• Gypsum wallboard or paneling to cover insulation and frame.
16”
Begin by building a stud wall inside the masonry foundation Figure 15: Nail long pieces of insula-
wall. Studs should be spaced so there’s either 16 or 24 inches tion to the band joist.
from the center of one to the next. This is to allow use of stan-
dard-width insulating materials.
Step 3: Place 31⁄2-inch thick blanket or batt insulation (R-11 or more)
between the studs, making sure that the insulation fits snugly
at top and bottom. Also, make sure any attached vapor barrier
faces the living area. If you place the stud wall 2 inches away
from the masonry wall, you can use R-19 insulation materials.
Step 4: Finish with drywall or paneling fastened to studs.

Interior Perimeter Basement Walls (using rigid insulation

panels)
Step 2: Attach 2- by-2-inch nailing strips to the wall and space the
vertical strips 24 inches apart to permit efficient use of stan-
dard 4- by-8-foot paneling sheets and drywall.
Step 3: Cut panel insulation to fit between nailing strips and top and
bottom plates and press it into place.
Step 4: Finish with drywall or paneling fastened to studs.
Figure 16: Cut insulation to extend from
The Outside Basement Walls the top plate to at least 2 feet below
Exterior foundation insulation is usually done during construction. ground level.
It is a difficult job to perform on a finished house. It requires trench-
ing around the foundation to allow work space. Rigid panel insulation
is glued to the exterior wall of the basement. Above the ground level,
the insulation is covered with cement board or pressure-treated ply-
wood to protect the insulation and secured to the foundation. The dirt
is then replaced around the house.

13
 FLOORS

Floors over unheated areas can be the source of considerable heat

loss. Your floors will fall into one or more of the types listed below and
should be insulated accordingly.
vapor barrier Floors Over Unheated Spaces
floor joist
wire Because your unheated garage, porch or crawl space may get as
supports cold as the outside during winter months, floors above these areas
should be insulated to R-19 levels. Make sure that water pipes and
ducts are insulated and that the ducts are vapor sealed.
To insulate these areas, follow the instructions below:

How-To Instructions:
Step 1: Purchase R-19 batt or blanket insulation with an attached vapor
barrier. Buy the width that best fits the floor-joist spacing and
look for insulation labeled “friction fit.” This means the prod-
Figure 17: Cut insulation to fit band joist uct is slightly wider, a feature that makes installation easier. To
between the sill and subfloor. secure the insulation in place, use a wire-spring clip or wire
mesh (Figure 17).
Step 2: Begin installing insulation at one end of the floor joists and
work out, pressing insulation up between the joists. The
attached vapor barrier should face up, toward the heated por-
tion of the house. The insulation should be flush with the bot-
tom of the floor.
Step 3: Cut wire and staple or nail it at right angles to the floor joists
to hold the insulation in place. Friction alone won’t hold insu-
lation in place; it will be necessary to install wire or screen.
Step 4: Insulate heating or air-conditioning ducts and water pipes run-
exterior wall
ning through the unheated space.
insulation Step 5: Covering any exposed ground in your crawl space with a 6 mm
polyethylene vapor barrier will reduce crawl space moisture.
cantilevered Vents with insulated, weatherstripped covers should also be
added to allow proper ventilation. These vents should be open
in the summer and closed during the winter if no combustion
devices are in the crawl spaces.

Cantilevered Floors
Figure 18: Insulating cantilevered area Cutting heat loss through a floor cantilevered over an exterior wall
with batt insulation. is just as important as insulating a floor over an unheated basement.
These floors are exposed directly to the outside and often have many
air leaks, are poorly insulated and are the source of drafts. Depending
on how the floor is built, there are a few ways to make cantilevered
floors more comfortable. One way is to hire a professional to spray in
polyurethane or polyicynene insulation. If you choose to insulate this
area yourself, use the following directions:

14
How-To Instructions
Step 1: Determine whether the cantilevered floor adjoins a basement,
suspended ceiling or other ceiling type where there is easy
access to the space below the floor.
Step 2: Caulk and air-seal all cracks, penetrations and air-leakage areas
prior to insulation.
Step 3: If easy access is found, insert R-19 batt or blanket insulation
into the space below the floor. The vapor barrier should face
up, toward the heated part of the house.

If easy access isn’t found:

Step 1: Working from outside the house, remove portions of the siding
or other covering from the bottom of the cantilevered floor
(Figures 18 and 19).
Step 2: Insert R-19 batt or blanket insulation into the space under the
floor, or attach rigid foam insulation.
Step 3: Replace siding or other materials.

Floor Over an Open Space

A tremendous amount of heat is lost from mobile homes or homes
supported by piers above the ground. These floors should be insulated
to R-19 or higher.
To insulate these areas, follow the instructions for insulating floors
above crawl spaces discussed earlier in this booklet. Some points to
note:
• Carefully air seal the floor before insulating.
• Check duct work for disconnections and leaks.
• If batt or blanket insulation is used, cover the insulating materials to
protect against moisture, wind and animals.
• Enclose crawl spaces as tightly as possible with vented, insulated
skirting.
• Avoid moisture problems by covering the ground below the space
with 6 mm polyethylene. rigid foam board insulation or spray-in-foam

Figure 19: Insulate under bay

Slab-on-Grade windows.
Slab-on-grade refers to concrete that sits above the frost line where
temperatures can quickly become extremely cold. Cold slabs can dam-
age wood and carpets if water and ice condense on the floor.
During construction, rigid board insulation should be installed
around its entire perimeter. Though insulation is difficult and expensive
to install after your house is built, existing slabs can be insulated using
rigid board and plywood flooring installed on top. This type of insula-
tion should be done by a professional.

15
 WALLS

Insulating the walls of an existing home is difficult and generally

should be done by a professional insulating contractor. Because of the
high cost of blowing insulation into exterior walls, this job should be
considered only after your home has been thoroughly tightened and
the attic and basement/crawl space have been insulated. Generally,
those efforts will reward you with significant energy savings and an
improved comfort level.
However, if your walls are exposed to cold winds, or if they
conduct too much heat out of your home, insulating them may be
necessary.

When to Consider Wall Insulation

• Insulating your walls is a good idea when there is less than 1 inch
of insulation in the walls. Typically, walls have space for 31⁄2 inches of
insulation. If you already have some insulation, the cost of adding
more may outweigh the benefits.
• When adding or replacing your home’s siding is a good time to con-
sider insulating your walls. Insulation can be blown into empty stud
cavities before new siding is installed.
• When doing extensive interior renovation is another good time to
consider adding insulation. If you plan to gut the walls of your
house for a remodeling project, you definitely should spend the time
and money to fill the wall cavities with insulation as long as they’re
already open.

Determine Level of Insulation

Generally, homes built in the mid-1950s and earlier do not have
insulated walls. There are a few ways to determine whether your walls
have insulation.
• Turn off the electricity and remove an electrical outlet switch plate
on an exterior wall. Using a flashlight, you can look behind it for
insulation.
• Remove a section of baseboard molding or paneling to expose an
exterior wall cavity and check for insulation.
• Cut a hole in the wall of a closet or cabinet that faces an outside
wall. If you find insulation, use a bamboo skewer or other non-
metallic device to determine its thickness.

Adding Insulation
If you decide to insulate your walls, obtain bids from several con-
tractors and compare the R-values provided, as well as the cost to

16
complete the job. Walls should be insulated to a level of R-13 or more.
The recommended method to insulate is to use loose-fill insulation or
spray-in insulation. It can be blown in through holes drilled into walls.
This can be done from inside or outside your home and is best done by
an insulation contractor. Blowing insulation in from the interior can be
less expensive, but may be messy.

AIR DUCTS

If the ducts for your heating and cooling system run exposed
Cut
through your unheated attic, garage, crawl space or basement, they insulation
should be sealed and insulated (Figure 20). so edges
butt at
joints
Getting Started tape
Here’s a list of the materials you’ll need: seams.
• Latex-based mastic or mastic tape.
• Duct insulation. It comes in blankets 1 or 2-inches thick. Get the
thicker variety, especially if your ducts are in the attic. Seal any
leaks with
• Metal tape. mastic or
approved
tape.
Step 1: Before insulating, check the ducts for leaks. Leaky ducts can
raise a typical home’s heating and cooling costs by as much as Figure 20: Re-tighten and seal leaky ducts
30%. The loss can be even higher in homes with uninsulated before insulating with foil-faced batts. Tape
ducts. Seal the leaks with latex-based mastic tape. Despite its seams with mastic tape.
name, duct tape will harden and crack after prolonged expo-
sure to the duct’s high temperature. Remove all the old duct
tape. Seal all junctions and connections with mastic or mastic
tape.
Step 2: Wrap the ducts with foil-faced fiberglass insulation. Make
sure the foil backing faces out, away from the duct. Tape the
insulation and any exposed fiberglass with metal tape.
Step 3: Seal return ducts, too, so you won’t be breathing crawlspace
air.

17
 APPENDIX

AREA TABLE
Area-To-Be-Insulated Worksheet
x =
Level
Ceiling length width area to be insulated
(Attic Floor)

Exterior
x =
Walls perimeter (distance around) height area to be insulated*

Basement x =
Walls perimeter (distance around) height area to be insulated*

x =
Floor over
Cold Space length width area to be insulated

* Does not include band joist area.

18
 RESOURCES

Consumer Guide to Home Energy Savings, Alex Wilson and John Morrill, American
Council for an Energy Efficient Economy, Berkeley, California, 1995.
Energy Answers Guidebook, Bangor Hydro-Electric Company, Bangor, Maine,
October 1989.
Home Insulation Guide, Iowa Energy Policy Council, Ames, Iowa, 1985.
Home Energy Audits, Advanced Sciences, Inc., U.S. Department of Energy, Silver
Springs, Maryland, March 1989.
Home Energy Checklist: Energy Factsheet, U.S. Department of Energy, grant num-
ber DE-F847-80CS69097.
Insulation Factsheet, U.S. Department of Energy, Office of Scientific and Technical
Information, Oak Ridge, Tennessee, January 1988.
Residential Heat Loss, Fred C. Vosper and Barbara J. Wiersma, Cold Climate
Housing Information Center, University of Minnesota, St. Paul, Minnesota,
1988.
Taping Foam Sheathing for Energy Performance and Moisture Control, Energy
Design Update, Vol. 15, No. 9, Cutter Information Corp., New York, NY,
September 1995.

This is an Iowa Energy Center publication.

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515-294-8819 • FAX 515-294-9912

This publication has been updated and modified for use in Arkansas by the
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19
This publication is distributed by:
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Energy Unit
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Little Rock, AR 72201