Example of A Home Energy Audit: Special Report

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Special Report

Example of a Home Energy Audit


The following is a sample energy audit performed on my parents' home (Mr. & Mrs. John Hodge, Jr.), in Elkton, MD.
The energy audit was performed by Alpha Engineering, Inc. of Bear, DE, and is recognized by the State of Maryland.

Sample Residential Energy Audit


Dear Mr. & Mrs. Hodge:

Alpha Engineering, Inc. is pleased to provide this report for your review.

Summary

This home energy performance evaluation reveals a profound thermal envelope breach at the ceiling/attic interface in
the return air wall cavity near the foyer. This condition is a gross energy waste as well as a fire stop breech. Other
short comings typical of construction practices 11 years ago offer several energy saving opportunities as outlined in
"Recommendations" of this report.

Background

A two-story, framed, colonial residence with a finished full basement and an attached garage is heated with a gas-
fired hot-air furnace. The central air conditioner appears to be a four-ton 10-SEER unit, and the hot water heater is
also gas-fired.

Alpha Building Inspectors was contracted to perform a full energy performance test.

Nine photographs accompany this report and document its findings. Each photo is captioned for clarity.

Findings
Photo 1 - Front view of Hodge household.

Photo 2 - The front downspout upper level should be extended around the corner. The present arrangement offers a
greater potential to leak at the flashing. Also, a deflector attached to the gutter at the valley will prevent overflow
during heavy rains.

Photo 3 - Downspout discharges should be extended below grade to avoid soil saturation at the foundation.
Photo 4 - All exterior penetrations should be sealed. Also, the sill plate and box plate (rim joist), should be sealed
using spray foam insulation.
Photo 5 - The insulation used on the suction line for the AC is haphazardly installed. This should be removed and
replaced with a foam insulation to match the existing black foam. Include a short piece on the liquid line at the
housing.

Photo 6 - Existing blown insulation is an average 10 inches thick. However, the effective R-value is estimated to
about nine inches. Adding more insulation to achieve R-38 or better will exceed today's code requirements. R-50 is
not unreasonable and is in line with Energy Star recommendations. It is also recommended to add rafter vents near
the soffits to avoid blocking the soffit ventilation.
Photo 7 - The fiberglass insulation on the sky light shaft will need removal to seal the gypsum board seams using
spray foam insulation. Then re-apply R-19 (6" thick fiberglass batt), 2 layers (minimum).
Photo 8 - With the return air grille removed, it was revealed that the attic space is totally open to the conditioned
space, as can be seen in the inset photo taken from the attic looking down on the ceiling. This opening must be
sealed using a plywood or gypsum cover cut to fit and sealed.

Analysis

An analysis of the combustion gases reveals that the hot water heater burns efficiently, however, the furnace is due
for a tune-up. The utility room balance is adequate even with all exhaust fans in the house on. This may change once
all recommendations to tighten up the house are complete. Retesting at that time is prudent.

The degree of house leakage is tested by using a blower door assembly designed to exhaust enough air to achieve a
specific negative pressure inside the house envelope (see photo 9 for set up). An exhaust range (cubic feet per
minute - CFM), is calculated using prescribed parameters. This is compared to the measured air flow.
Photo 9 - Arrangement of the blower door test includes an adjustable fan with a differential pressure gauge adjusted
to a specified level.

For this application, the actual value exceeds the highest calculated value by 12.6%. Obviously, there is ample
opportunity to seal air leaks throughout the house. However, the most prevalent opening exists at the return air
opening at the attic (see Photo 8).

Conclusion

In my professional opinion, this residence energy performance is less than expected of an eleven-year-old dwelling.
By completing a few simple fixes as outlined in the recommendations below, it is likely that the performance will
improve considerably.

Recommendations

1. Close off the return air shaft in the hallway. Cut to fit and fasten in place a cap (plywood or gypsum), at the
top (attic), of the shaft. This will prevent the furnace fan from pulling unconditioned air from the attic. This is
also a code requirement to prevent easy flame spread.
2. Add foam insulation at the perimeter sill plate. This seals the air leaks and reduces infiltration of
unconditioned air.
3. Seal all accessible duct joints in the basement utility room and in the attic. Use mastic putty or proper duct
tape.
4. Replace the Master Bath recessed light over the shower stall with a vented light suitable for wet locations.
Seal at interface with the gypsum penetration.
5. Tune-up furnace and add insulation on the AC suction line at the furnace and a short (about 1"), on the
liquid line at the furnace housing.
6. Seal the skylight shaft at the insulated walls using spray foam insulation.
7. Add attic insulation. Current ceiling insulation installed efficiency is estimated to meet an average R-9.
Another 8 -10 inches of blown insulation will provide better than R-38 (recommended for this region).
Consider R-50 to be consistent with Energy Star recommendations. The soffits must be prepared for
adding the insulation by extending the rafter vents between each rafter by 18".
8. Consider replacing the existing 10-SEER AC unit with a more efficient 13 SEER or better.
9. Consider replacing or eliminating the existing older refrigerator in the lower level. Other older appliances
can be replaced for improved efficiency.
10. On the exterior: add deflectors to gutters at roof valleys; extend the upper-level front downspout to direct
water around the corner.
11. Seal all exterior wall penetrations, particularly at the AC lines.

General Recommendations:

1. Consider replacing existing windows with "Low-E" triple pane windows. This is a large expense and should
be analyzed for economic payback by an independent professional.
2. Replace all incandescent light bulbs with the newer compact fluorescent lights.
3. Add foam seals behind every exterior wall electrical outlet cover and use plastic plugs in all unused outlets.
4. Turn off all appliances and their associated transformers when not in use. "Ghost Amp Robbers" such as
telephone chargers still draw a small current when left plugged into the outlet even when the phone is not
connected.
5. Other good energy saving tips and tax credits can be found on www.energystar.gov.

You can download the PDF version here: Example of a Home Energy Audit

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Energy Efficient Lighting  


< live >            
• Benefits of LED lightbulbs
• Choosing a LED bulb - different models
• LED terminology
• Benefits of CFL lightbulbs
• Choosing a CFL bulb
• Limitations, Disposal of CFLs
 

Compare the cost / benefit of


LED vs CFL vs Incandescent
light bulbs

 
Electric lighting burns up to 25% of the average home energy budget.

The electricity used over the lifetime of a single incandescent bulb costs 5 to 10 times the original
purchase price of the bulb itself.

Compact Fluorescent Lights (CFL) and Light Emitting Diode (LED) bulbs have revolutionized
energy-efficient lighting.

CFLs are simply miniature versions of full-sized fluorescents. They screw into standard lamp
sockets, and give off light that looks just like the common incandescent bulbs - not like the
fluorescent lighting we associate with factories and schools.

LEDs are small, solid light bulbs which are extremely energy-efficient. New LED bulbs are
grouped in clusters with diffuser lenses which have broadened the applications for LED use in the
home.  
LED Lighting
LEDs (Light Emitting Diodes) are solid light bulbs which are extremely energy-efficient. Until
recently, LEDs were limited to single-bulb use in applications such as instrument panels,
electronics, pen lights and, more recently, strings of indoor and outdoorChristmas lights.
Manufacturers have expanded the application of LEDs by "clustering" the small bulbs. The first
clustered bulbs bulbs were used for battery powered items such as flashlights and headlamps.
Today, LED bulbs are made using as many as 180 bulbs per cluster, and encased in diffuser
lenses which spread the light in wider beams. Now available with standard bases which fit
common household light fixtures, LEDs are the next generation in home lighting.

The high cost of producing LEDs has been a roadblock to widespread use. However, researchers
at Purdue University have recently developed a process for using inexpensive silicon wafers to
replace the expensive sapphire-based technology. This promises to bring LEDs into competitive
pricing with CFLs and incandescents. LEDs may soon become the standard for most lighting
needs. We are following these developments with interest and will report the latest updates in this
research.
Benefits of LED lightbulbs  
Long-lasting - LED bulbs last up to 10 times as long as compact fluorescents, and far longer than
typical incandescents.
Durable - since LEDs do not have a filament, they are not damaged under circumstances when a
regular incandescent bulb would be broken. Because they are solid, LED bulbs hold up well to
jarring and bumping.
Cool - these bulbs do not cause heat build-up; LEDs produce 3.4 btu's/hour, compared to 85 for
incandescent bulbs. This also cuts down on air conditioning costs in the home.
Mercury-free - no mercury is used in the manufacturing of LEDs.
More efficient - LED light bulbs use only 2-10 watts of electricity (1/3rd to 1/30th of Incandescent
or CFL) Small LED flashlight bulbs will extend battery life 10 to 15 times longer than with
incandescent bulbs. Also, because these bulbs last for years, energy is saved in maintenance and
replacement costs. For example, many cities in the US are replacing their incandescent traffic
lights with LED arrays because the electricity costs can be reduced by 80% or more.
Cost-effective - although LEDs are expensive, the cost is recouped over time and in battery
savings. For the AC bulbs and large cluster arrays, the best value comes from commercial use
where maintenance and replacement costs are expensive.
Light for remote areas - because of the low power requirement for LEDs, using solar panels
becomes more practical and less expensive than running an electric line or using a generator for
lighting.
Choosing an LED lightbulb   Many different models and styles of LED bulbs are emerging in
today's marketplace. When choosing a bulb, keep in mind the following:

• Estimate desired wattage - read the package to choose desired illumination level. For example, a
3W LED is equivalent in output to a 45 W incandescent.
• Choose between warm and cool light - new LED bulbs are available in 'cool' white light, which is
ideal for task lighting, and 'warm' light commonly used for accent or small area lighting.
• Standard base or pin base - LEDs are available in several types of 'pin' sockets or the standard
"screw' (Edison) bases for recessed or track lighting.
• Choose between standard and dimmable bulbs - some LED bulbs, such as the LumiSelect series,
are now available as dimmable bulbs.

The common styles of LED bulbs include the following:

Diffused bulbs
In this style LED bulb, clusters of LEDs are covered by a dimpled lens which spreads the light out
over a wider area. Available in standard Edison bases, these bulbs have many uses, such as area
lighting for rooms, porches, reading lamps, accent lamps, hallways and low-light applications
where lights remain on for extended periods. more info

Diffused high power bulbs


Designed for standard household use, these bulbs produce light equivalent to a 100-watt
incandescent bulb. The EvoLux (pictured), and ZetaLux (pictured above) are the first UL Listed
and FCC approved LED light bulbs for general household illumination. more info
Track Lighting
Available in pin base or standard (Edison) base, LEDs are ideal for track lighting. LEDs do not
contribute to heat buildup in a room because no matter how long they remain on, they do not get
hot to the touch. Also, because they are 90% more efficient than incandescents, and last 10 times
longer than CFLs, the frequency of changing bulbs is greatly reduced. more info

Recessed Downlight and Spotlight bulbs


LEDs are now available for standard recessed lighting pots and housings. The light output and
color quality are similar to incandescent downlights, but draws only about one-fifth of the power.
Also, because they are 90% more efficient than incandescents. and last 10 times longer than
CFLs, the frequency of changing bulbs is greatly reduced. more info

Spotlight and Floodlight LEDs


The spotlight LED lacks a dispersing lens, so it appears brighter as its light is directed forward. It
runs cool and will last over 50,000 hours due to advanced thermal management design. The
floodlight model gives a spread-out dispersed light. Well suited for ceiling lights, outdoor
floodlights. retail display lighting, landscape lighting and motion sensors. more info

LED Terminology
CRI - Coloring Rendering Index. CRI represents the quality of light and its faithfulness to render
colors correctly. The EvoLux bulb, for example, features a CRI of 75 for Cool White and 80 for
Warm White making it one of the highest in the industry.
CCT - Correlated Color Temperature is the measure used to describe the relative color appearance
of a white light source. CCT indicates whether a light source appears more yellow/gold/orange or
more blue, in terms of the range of available shades of "white." CCT is given in kelvins (unit of
absolute temperature).
RGB - stands for red, green, and blue, the three primary colors of light. When the primaries are
mixed, the resulting light appears white to the human eye. Mixing the light from red, green, and
blue LEDs is one way to produce white light. The other approach is known as phosphor
conversion [see below].
Luminous Flux - the flow of light measured in lumens. With light bulbs, it provides an estimate of
the apparent amount of light the bulb will produce.

LED Colors
Red - red is the traditional color for maintaining night vision.
Green - green is now the preferred color for pilots and the military. The green color is also great
for retaining night vision, and it doesn’t erase the red markings on maps and charts.
Blue - many people like the blue because it is very easy on the eyes. Blue appears to be a good
reading light for elderly eyes. Elderly folks report that they can read under the blue light for hours
without eyestrain, compared to severe eyestrain in less than 30 minutes with incandescent
lighting.
White - the most popular of the LED colors. It produces a soft white light, without harsh reflection,
glare or shadows.
Amber - LED amber bulbs do not attract flying insects, as do ordinary white bulbs. Amber LEDs
are used outdoors in areas such as patios and decks where insects flying around lights are a
nuisance.
 CFL Lighting: Benefits  
Efficient: CFLs are four times more efficient and last up to 10 times longer than incandescents. A
22 watt CFL has about the same light output as a 100 watt incandescent. CFLs use 50 - 80% less
energy than incandescents.
Less Expensive: Although initially more expensive, you save money in the long run because
CFLs use 1/3 the electricity and last up to 10 times as long as incandescents. A single 18 watt CFL
used in place of a 75 watt incandescent will save about 570 kWh over its lifetime. At 8 cents per
kWh, that equates to a $45 savings.
Reduces Air and Water Pollution: Replacing a single incandescent bulb with a CFL will keep a
half-ton of CO2 out of the atmosphere over the life of the bulb. If everyone in the U.S. used energy-
efficient lighting, we could retire 90 average size power plants. Saving electricity reduces CO2
emissions, sulfur oxide and high-level nuclear waste.
High-Quality Light: Newer CFLs give a warm, inviting light instead of the "cool white" light of
older fluorescents. They use rare earth phosphors for excellent color and warmth. New
electronically ballasted CFLs don't flicker or hum.
Versatile: CFLs can be applied nearly anywhere that incandescent lights are used. Energy-
efficient CFLs can be used in recessed fixtures, table lamps, track lighting, ceiling fixtures and
porchlights. 3-way CFLs are also now available for lamps with 3-way settings. Dimmable CFLs are
also available for lights using a dimmer switch.  Choosing a CFL  
CFLs come in many shapes and sizes. When purchasing CFLs, consult the seller for
recommendations and consider the following: • Choose your preferred light quality
CFL bulbs have a Kelvin or 'K' number listed on the packaging. CFLs with K numbers between
2700-3000 give off a soft bright light like incandescents. CFLs with K numbers between 3500-6000
give off a bright light. As you go up the K number scale the light gets bluish and closer to
daylight.

For example:
Approx. 2700K = Warm White (looks just like incandescent)
Approx. 5000K = Cool White (white/blue, bright light)
• Choose the shape. CFLs are available in a variety of shapes to fit a range of lamps and lighting
fixtures. See below on this page for the most popular CFL shapes.

• Match lumens to the incandescent being replaced. Lumens indicate the amount of light being
generated. (Watts is a measure of energy use, not light strength.) To compare lumens and watts
see chart below:

..................Incandescent Watts...... . ..CFL Watt range... . . ... .. Lumen Range    40


 60
 75
100
150  8 - 10
13 - 18
18 - 22
23 - 28
34 - 42 450
890
1210
1750
2780   CFL Models

CFLs are available in a variety of styles or shapes. Some have two, four, or six tubes. Older
models, and specialty models, have separate tubes and ballasts. Some CFLs have the tubes and
ballast permanently connected. This allows you to change the tubes without changing the ballast.
Others have circular or spiral-shaped tubes. In general, the size or total surface area of the tube
determines how much light the bulb produces.

The following CFL bulb models come with standard sockets for easy installation in most common
household applications.
Spiral Lamps
These bulbs are designed as a continuous tube in a spiral shape which has similar outside shape
and light casting qualities to a standard incandescent bulb. Spiral CFL bulbs are made in several
sizes to fit most common fixtures.

Triple Tube Lamps


These CFLs have more tubing in a smaller area, which generates even more light in a shorter
bulb. They pack high light output into a very small space and can be used in fixtures designed for
incandescent bulbs, such as table lamps, reading lamps, open hanging lamps, and bare bulb
applications.

Standard Lamps
These are spiral lamps with a dome cover. They are designed to give the appearance of the
traditional light bulb for consumers looking for the more familiar light bulb appearance. The glass
diffuser provides a quality of light similar to the 'soft-white' type of incandescent bulbs.

Globe Lamps
This shape is commonly used in bathroom vanity mirrors or open hanging lamps, and bare bulb
applications. Bathroom vanities usually require multiple bulbs, which generate radiant heat. The
CFL globe will reduce this heat buildup while saving energy. The glass diffuser provides a soft-
white light.

Flood Lamps
These lamps are designed to be ideal for recessed and track lighting fixtures, indoors and
outdoors. They provide diffused, soft, white light, and generate less heat than will an
incandescent flood or a halogen bulb.

Candelabra
The screw-in torpedo-shape and the small-base of this bulb is designed for smaller light fixtures
throughout the house, from chandeliers to sconces. To use a smaller candelabra-based bulb in a
regular socket, you can use a socket reducer.  

 
  Limitations of CFL lightbulbs
Although CFLs are an excellent source of energy-efficient lighting, they are not always the best
choice for all lighting applications. Here are a few limitations to consider:

 On/Off cycling: CFLs are sensitive to frequent on/off cycling. Their rated lifetimes of 10,000
hours are reduced in applications where the light is switched on and off very often.
Closets and other places where lights are needed for brief illumination should use
incandescent or LED bulbs.
 Dimmers: Dimmable CFLs are available for lights using a dimmer switch, but check the
package; not all CFLs can be used on dimmer switches. Using a regular CFL with a
dimmer can shorten the bulb life span.
 Timers: Most CFLs can be used with a timer, however some timers have parts which are
incompatible with CFLs; to check your timer, consult the timer package or manufacturer.
Using an incompatible timer can shorten the life of a CFL bulb.
 Outdoors: CFLs can be used outdoors, but should be covered or shaded from the
elements. Low temperatures may reduce light levels - check the package label to see if the
bulb is suited for outdoor use.
 Retail lighting: CFLs are not spot lights. Retail store display lighting usually requires
narrow focus beams for stronger spot lighting. CFLs are better for area lighting.
 Mercury content: CFLs contain small amounts of mercury which is a toxic metal. This
metal may be released if the bulb is broken, or during disposal. New 'Alto' CFL bulbs are
now available with low-mercury content. These low-mercury CFLs are available at our
online store. For more information about mercury and CFLs, see below.

The principle reason for reduced lifespan of CFLs is heat. CFLs exhibit shorter lifespans in light
fixtures and sockets where there is low air-flow and heat build-up such as recessed lighting. For
these types of sockets it is recommended to ues specially designed CFLs for recessed lighting or
LEDs. Another main reason for reduced lifespan of CFLs is too-frequent on/off cycling. These
bulbs should be used where they will be left on for steady periods without being flicked on and
off.
LED fluorescent tube compares (VS) fluorescent light
(CFL)
Author : Houston Neal Date : 7/26/2010 2:30:15 AM

"LED fluorescent tube" is a misnomer. LED lights and fluorescent lights are completely different
technologies. LEDs are very small bulbs illuminated by movement of electrons in a diode.
Fluorescent bulbs use electrodes and a gas combination of argon and mercury to produce light.
So the name "LED fluorescent tube" really refers to an LED tube that reminds us of traditional
fluorescent tubes (likely above your head as you read this).

LED lights should also not be confused with compact fluorescent light (CFL) bulbs. CFLs use
the same technology as fluorescent tubes to produce light, but on a smaller scale. They are a
replacement for the incandescent bulbs commonly found in most home light fixtures. CFLs have
garnered a lot of press because of their energy efficiency and environmental benefits (i.e. they
use less power).

An LED tube is made up of hundreds of individual LEDs. They come in a variety of sizes (2, 4
or 6 feet), different temperatures (i.e. different colors of light) and varying arrays of LEDs. They
can be purchased with new fixtures, or used for retrofitting existing fixtures. But keep in mind,
they don’t require ballasts, so those will need to be removed when replacing fluorescent bulbs.

When comparing LEDs to fluorescent tubes, here are four key specifications you should
review:
  Lumens – This is the unit of measurement for strength of light. Look for tubes with 1500
lumens or more.
  Watts – This is a unit of measurement for power consumption. Four foot LED tubes typically
use 15 to 25 watts, while fluorescent tubes use more than 30 watts.
  Lifespan – This is how long the bulb will last. It’s measured in hours. 50,000 hours is common
for LED tubes.
  Color temperature – The temperature of the light is the color of the light. It is measured in
units of absolute temperature, or Kelvin (K). 3000K is considered warm (yellowish), 4100K is
considered neutral, and 5800 K is cool (bluish).

Pros and Cons of LED tube and Fluorescent Tubes:


To give recognition where it’s due, fluorescent tubes are a great invention. They have been
lighting most of America ever since GE brought them to market back in 1938. They are four to
six times more energy efficient than incandescent bulbs and are said to last 10 to 20 times longer.
Of course there are disadvantages too.

Fluorescent tubes contain mercury and phosphor which present health and environmental risks.
Lights require a ballast which adds to the cost of the lamp and can cause a buzzing noise. Finally,
they flicker and the light is often drab.

Meanwhile, LED bulbs last longer than fluorescents, they don’t contain harmful ingredients like
mercury and they use much less power than fluorescent lamps. And this is just for starters. LEDs
aren’t perfect though. The tubes are generally not as bright and cost more up front. And
unfortunately, cost will likely be the number one driver of greater adoption. So let’s compare the
costs of each.

Costs of LED Tubes vs Fluorescent Tubes:


The debate over LED vs fluorescent tubes always teeters at the cost argument. When comparing
the upfront cost of one LED tube to one fluorescent tube, fluorescent wins. However, when you
consider volume discounts and the lifespan of LEDs, the scale leans the opposite direction. Let’s
compare the costs of each.

This table compares the first-year cost of a single commercial-grade (i.e. UL and CE compliant),
four foot T8 LED tube to a four foot T8 fluorescent tube. To measure kilowatts per year, we
assumed the lights would be on for 12 hours a day and 255 days a year. We used an average
energy rating of 20 watts per hour for LEDs and 32 for fluorescents. To calculate energy cost, we
used an average cost per kilowatt of $0.11.

Clearly fluorescents are less expensive in the first year. However, when you account for product
longevity, LED tubes are the winner. LED tubes last an average of 50,000 hours (roughly 16
years) while fluorescent T8 tubes last an average of 25,000 (roughly 8 years). To determine this,
we looked at every fluorescent T8 tube that Sylvania offers (nearly 150) and calculated average
lifespan. To be precise, it was 24,787.67 hours.

In this next table, we compare the 16-year cost (the lifespan of an LED tube) of 40 LED tubes
compared to 40 fluorescent tubes. In this example, the number 40 is somewhat arbitrary. We
have twenty, 2′ x 4′ fixtures in our office, so we chose 40 bulbs as our comparison. Keep in
mind, fluorescent fixtures require ballasts, so we’ll need to tack on an additional $400 to
fluorescent tubes (20 ballasts at $20).

Using prices from our previous table, in the first year it will cost $3,069 for the energy and initial
purchase of 40 LED tubes. The fluorescent tubes would cost $1,071. Every year thereafter, the
energy costs of LED tubes will be $269, and $431 for the fluorescents. In the eighth year, the
fluorescent bulbs will need to be replaced at a cost of $240.

You’ll notice the numbers in our table look a little different. That’s because we’ve included an
annual energy inflation rate of 5%. We also used a 2.5% inflation rate to calculate the cost of the
replacement fluorescent bulbs in the eighth year. Finally, we used a 6% discount rate to
determine the net present value (NPV).
As our table reveals, the 16-year cost for 40 LED tubes is $6,431 while the cost for fluorescent
tubes is $6,846. This is 6% in savings over the life of the tubes. Keep in mind, this is only 40
tubes. Building owners with more light fixtures will realize more savings as the volume discount
will be greater and energy costs will be lower. So, over the lifespan of the product, LED tubes
are more cost effective than fluorescent tubes.

LED Fluorescent Tubes with Bright Future:


The cost of manufacturing LEDs is dropping. Researchers at Purdue University have developed a
way to create LEDs using inexpensive, metal-coated silicon wafers instead of expensive
sapphire-based bulbs. This has the potential to bring the cost down to levels competitive with
fluorescent tubes.

In the meantime, there’s no reason electrical contractors shouldn’t promote LED tubes. LED
tubes can help building owners become eligible for government and utility company incentives.
They help companies reach the desirable – and highly marketable – green cachet. They provide
greater energy cost savings than fluorescents. And finally, they are simply better for the Earth.
They are the future of commercial lighting.
This article was originally published on Electrical Software Advice, by Houston Neal.

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