Ночная и Белая Фурия - инструкция

night & light fury
chibi plush backpack

a free sewing pattern by
night & light fury backpack 2 free sewing tutorial
night & light fury backpack

Take your favorite dragon pal with you wherever you go with this fun backpack shaped just like
Toothless! It has an extra chubby baby style body so there's plenty of storage inside.
The templates include all of the fun features of a night or light fury like horns, spikes, tail fins,
and tiny detailed wings.
With a large zippered pocket in the back of the head, you can hold most of your essentials,
including a phone, wallet, and a few other items.
You also have your choice of easier non-adjustable straps or more time-consuming adjustable
straps depending on how much effort you want to invest in the project.
sew desu ne?

| www.cholyknight.com |
// ©2019 Choly Knight // Items sewn using this pattern may be sold. Credit to “Choly Knight” or “Sew Desu Ne?” is appreciated.
You may not reproduce, share, freely distribute, or sell this pattern as your own in digital or printed form.
difficulty: makes:
One plush backpack: about 15" tall and 9" wide
in the body (not including horns and legs).
This plush is a little difficult because it's also About 22" tall for full body including horns.
a backpack, but if you have a bit of experi- Zippered pocket is 7½" wide and 12½" long.
ence with both it will be a good challenge.
Knowledge of zippers helps a lot as well as
sewing tiny pieces. Toothless has a lot of skills used:
design elements so that can take some time.
Also, if you're not familiar with bag hardware, • Fusible web applique
it's best to stick with the non-adjustable • Curved sewing
straps. Doing the adjustable version might • Basting
bump this project up to a 6 if it's completely • Zippers
new to you. • Ladder stitch
• Top stitching
• Bag hardware
• Interfacing
materials & tools:

• 2/3 yd. of 54" wide fabric for main body
• one fat quarter of cotton fabric for inner lining
• one 8" all-purpose zipper (at least)
• optional, but highly recommended: 14" x 7" piece of lightweight fusible interfacing
• for toothless: 7" x 6" piece of red fabric for tail
• 6” x 6” piece of green or blue applique fabric (such as cotton, felt, or flannel) for eyes
• 3” x 3” piece of black applique fabric for pupils
• 3" x 3" piece of white applique fabric for eye shines
• sewing thread to match main fabric and applique fabrics
• poly-fil stuffing
• basic sewing tools (sewing machine, scissors, iron, needles, pins, fabric marker, seam
ripper)
• for non-adjustable straps: 1½-2 yds. of 1"-1½" wide strapping/webbing material (see
page 21 for exact measurements)
• for adjustable straps: 2-3 yds. of 1"-1½" wide strapping/webbing material (see page
23 for exact measurements)
• two tri-glides matching the width of your webbing
• two rectangular rings matching the width of your webbing
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webbing/strapping: tri-glides & rings:

The name for a thick, ribbon-like material used Tri-glides are a type of bag hardware used for
for backpack straps. It comes in both cotton and adjusting the length of straps. They can be found
polyester/nylon versions and varies between 1”-3” in either plastic or metal varieties. You can spot
wide. them by noting the 3 distinctive bars which give
The polyester/nylon versions come in more colors. them their name.
It has a large weave so it can fray easily after For use in this project, they also need to be paired
cutting. It can be purchased by the yard at fabric with rings, which are a more basic shape for
shops -- usually in the notions, with the elastic, or looping strapping material. Rings can be circular,
with the trims. Can also be found by the roll online. d-shaped, or rectangular (shown here).
suggested fabrics:
Plush, stretchy fabrics such as fleece or minky
faux fur are suggested. The variations of fleece and minky
mentioned to the left would work well, but really
any plushy fabric with a bit of stretch on the cross-
minky wise grain would be well-suited.
Stretch fabrics like fleece or minky will create
a more squat, round shape when stuffed.
cuddle fleece Non-stretchy fabrics, like felt or cotton, won’t
stretch when stuffed so the resulting plush will look
elongated as shown.
micro fleece
minky vs. felt
anti-pill fleece
fleece
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printing the pattern:

To print the pattern, set your computer to print pages 32-40. If you’re unfamiliar with printing
and assembling a .pdf pattern, read the steps below.
1 2 3
At the print dialog box, check the box Print the pages needed for the file. You It’s likely your printer will have a
that says print at “Actual Size” or 100%. might have one or more. Either way, margin that ensures your image
Any other selection (such as “Fit to be sure you have the full collection by doesn’t print to the very edge.
page”) will distort the pattern so it’s noting the page numbers in the corner. Assembly will be easier if you trim off
slightly larger or smaller and we don’t this blank margin edge. This will give
want that. you pages that overlap slightly during
assembly. If you trim across the gray
outline boxes, this will give you pages
that don’t overlap but rather butt
against each other.
4 5
To line up the pattern pages, match up the corresponding You can trace the patterns onto a different paper, or you can
diamond shapes. Each diamond will have a letter, so it’s also just cut them straight from the printer paper -- be sure
simply a matter of matching A1 to A2, B3 to B4 and so on. that each piece is fully taped together along the joins so
The faint gray lines indicate the border of every page, you they don’t fall apart when you cut them.
should be able to line those up as well. When the diamond
goes together, tape it in place.
If you have many pages, it’s easier to tape up the pages into
rows first. Then tape the rows together into a full block.
sew desu ne?

cutting the fabric:
1 2 3 4
Place pattern on the fabric, Pin the pattern in place, use Using the paper as a For all fur fabrics, shake the
and make sure the stretch pattern weights, or trace the template, cut out the fabric. excess fuzz away.
line matches the stretch outline of the pattern with a Cut the required amount
of the fabric. The nap line washable marker. according to the pattern.
should go in the direction of
the fur.
cutting layout: both versions:
optional
toothless interfacing
J I
7"
body fabric ST RETC H
I
I
2/3 yd.; 24” long
I
MM F F E P P P P 14" wide
A A tail tip
6"
lining
O O
NAP
N1 N1
J H H H H D D D D
18" long
C C C C
7" wide
K G G G G N1 N1 C C
C C
C C
C C
B1
B1
B1
B1
B1
B1
L L
54” wide
22" wide
light fury
body fabric ST RETC H
I
before you begin:
2/3 yd.; 24” long
I
MM F F E P P P P
A A • Briefly read the project instruc-
O O tions so you know what to expect.
NAP
J H H H H D D D D • If desired, mark the cut fabric

B2 N2 N2 pieces with the markings and
K C C B2
G G G G B2 symbols from the pattern. Or wait
C C B2 N2 N2
until the applicable step before
54” wide transferring.
• Note that the seam allowance used
is ¼” throughout the project.
sew desu ne?

hold applique
while pulling
paper away
trace onto
paper side
pupils -- black
eyes -- blue/green
1. prepare the face applique eye shines -- white
a. Take your fusible web and trace all of your applique pieces onto the smooth (paper) side. You should
have at least two eyes, two pupils, two eye shines, and two nostrils.
b. Fuse the bumpy (adhesive) side onto the wrong side of your applique fabric. The eyes go on blue or
green, the pupils and nostrils on black, and the eye shines on white.
c. Cut out the eyes and arrange them on the head front (A) piece. Set your paper pattern on top of
the fabric piece (right sides up). Align the eye piece on top where the placement markings are. Then
carefully pull the paper pattern away while holding the applique piece in place.
fuse eyes Toothless

first tail tip:
add smaller
pieces next
2. fuse the applique
a. Fuse the eyes in place with your iron (use a press cloth -- such as a scrap piece of cotton -- if you’re
using a polyester or fur fabric like minky).
b. Next, move onto the pupil, nostril, and eye shine pieces. Fuse them much the same way as you did
the eyes, using the paper pattern and photos as a guide. Repeat with the other eye and the other
head front piece.
If you used heavy duty fusible web, you can keep the pieces fused without sewing, or you can sew
them in place a number of ways. I’ve used a zigzag stitch here.
→→ Refer to the next step for some other applique options.
c. If you're making Toothless, take this time to fuse the skull to his tail fin pieces (N1) with the same
process.
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4
2
straight stitch; applique 3
great for felt whipstitch 1
2a. other applique options

a. Other good options for applique include a straight stitch, which involves sewing around the edge of
the applique pieces with a straight stitch using matching thread -- about 1/8” in from the edge.
b. You can also applique by hand; I prefer a whipstitch. Thread a hand-sewing needle with some
matching thread and knot it. Bring the thread up from the back of the project; about 1/8” in from the
edge of the applique shape. Bring it down perpendicular from the curve, just outside of the applique
shape. This completes one stitch.
c. For the next stitch, bring the needle back up about 1/8” away from the previous stitch and 1/8” in from
the edge just as in the first stitch. Once again, bring it down just outside the applique shape. Continue
this way until you’ve sewn around the shape.
2 light
trim fury fins
between
spikes
leave open
for turning
3. sew the long spikes

a. Grab your long spike/back fin pieces (B1/2). Take two of them
and align them with right sides facing and raw edges matching
up. Sew them together along the long curved edge. Leave the
straight edge free for turning it right side out.
b. for the night fury spikes: trim the excess seam allowance at
the inner corners to increase flexibility. 3 night
fury spikes
c. Turn the pieces right side out. When complete, you should have 2
light fury fins or 3 night fury spikes.
sew desu ne?

place
spikes on spike
forehead tips point
upward
basting:
A form of temporary
sewing meant to hold pieces
in place. A long stitch length is
often used for this reason. The
finished result is not meant
to be seen and sometimes
is even removed later
(depending on your
project).
4. baste the forehead spikes

a. if you're making toothless: grab one of your long spikes (B1) from back in step 3.
If you haven't already, locate the spike placement lines found on the paper pattern for the head
front (A). Place the open end of the spikes within these lines so the edges match up. Make sure the
spikes are pointing up.
b. Baste the spikes to the head within the seam allowance to hold it for future steps.
a. Grab your remaining head

front piece (A). Align it
sew along over the first with right
notched sides facing and raw edges
edge
matching.
b. Sew the head front pieces
together along the notched
edge (with the nose point).
5. sew the head front
sew desu ne?

a. Grab your tiny spike

pieces (C). Take two of them
6. sew the tiny spikes
and align them with right
sides facing and raw edges
matching up.
b. Sew them together along the
long curved edge. Leave the
short straight edge free for leave open
turning right side out. for turning
c. Turn the spike right side out.
for a light fury: repeat
a. b.
parts A and B for 2 finished
spikes total. 6 night
fury spikes
d. for a night fury: repeat
parts A and B for 6 finished
spikes total.
2 light
fury spikes
c. d.
spikes point light fury: night fury:

toward center
7. baste the tiny spikes

a. Open up your head front pieces (A). If you haven't already, locate the tiny spike placement lines
found on the paper pattern around the outside of the head.
Place the open end of your tiny spikes within these placement lines so the edges match up and the
spikes point toward the center of the head.
b. Baste the spikes to the head front within the seam allowance to hold them for future steps.
for a night fury: note that you'll have 6 spikes; 3 on each side.
sew desu ne?

a. Grab your arm pieces (D).

Take two of them and align
8. sew the arms leave open
them with right sides facing for turning
and raw edges matching up.
b. Sew the arm along the
pointed 'claw' edge. Leave the
slanted edge free for turning
it right side out later.
c. Trim the excess seam
allowance at the inner and
outer corners of the claws
to increase flexibility and
a. b.
decrease bulk when the arms
are turned next.
two
d. Turn the arm right side complete
out and repeat with the arms
remaining arm pieces for two
arms total.
trim seam
allowance
at corners
c. d.
arms
point
place downward
arm
against
stuff edge of
lightly belly
9. baste the arms

a. Stuff the arms lightly with stuffing. Keep it especially light at the opening, as we'll be sewing it to the
belly next.
b. Grab your belly piece (E). If you haven't already, locate the arm placement lines found on the paper
pattern. Transfer them over to the right side of the fabric.
Align the open end of the arm within the lines. Match up the raw edges and have the arm point down.
c. Baste the both arms to the belly within the seam allowance to hold it securely for the next step.
sew desu ne?

a. Grab your side pieces (F).

If you haven't already, note
10. sew the sides flip side to
match with
the notch markings found belly
on both the belly and side
paper patterns. These edges
will be sewn together next.
b. Flip the side so the notched
edge matches with the belly
and right sides are facing. Pin
the fabrics together. match up
a. b.
notched
c. Sew the side to the belly edges
along this notched edge.
Repeat with the other side
piece. arms are secured
sew between belly and sides
d. When complete, open up the sides
front so far. The arms should to
belly
be securely sewn between
the belly and side.
c. d.
leave open two complete

for turning legs
11. sew the legs

a. Grab your leg pieces (G). Take two of them and align them with right sides facing and raw edges
matching up.
b. Sew the leg along the pointed 'claw' edge. Leave the slanted edge free for turning it right side out later.
c. Trim the excess seam allowance at the inner and outer corners of the claws to increase flexibility and
decrease bulk when the legs are turned next.
Turn the leg right side out and repeat with the remaining leg pieces for two legs total.
sew desu ne?

line up
so legs
point
stuff straight
lightly down
legs will point

inward when
12. baste the legs

basted
a. Stuff the legs lightly with stuffing. Keep it especially light at the opening, as we'll be sewing it to the
belly next.
b. Grab your front piece so far. If you haven't already, locate the leg placement lines found on the paper
pattern for both the belly (E) and the side (F). Transfer them over to the right side of the fabric.
Align the open end of the leg within the lines. They should be about centered over the belly seam. Flip
the legs inward so the open edges match up with the raw edges of the body.
c. Baste the leg to the body within the seam allowance to hold it securely for the next step.
Note that the legs point inward when basted so they'll point straight down when flipped later.
leave open for

turning
trim seam allowance

at corners and curves
13. sew the wings

a. Grab your wing pieces (H). Take two of them and align them with right sides facing and raw edges
matching up.
b. Sew them together along the long pointed edge. Leave the short straight edge free for turning the
wing right side out later.
c. Trim the excess seam allowance near the tight corners and curves. This will decrease bulk and
increase flexibility when the wing is turned later.
sew desu ne?

use paper template to

trace top stitching lines sew along
two wings traced lines
14. top stitch the wings

a. Turn the wing right side out and repeat step 13 with the remaining wing
pieces for two complete wings total. top
b. The wings have some extra top stitching lines for depth and stability. To stitching:
transfer them over, use the paper pattern as a tracing template. Trim the one or several lines of
paper along the stitching lines and trace them onto the fabric. stitching done on the right
side of a project to serve
c. Stitch along the traced lines to complete the top stitching. a decorative purpose
baste wings to
sides
align edge of
wing along side
stuff
upper edge
of wing
15. baste the wings

a. This step is especially helpful for extra wing stability, though it might be troublesome without
hemostats. You can skip this part but your wings might flop down when complete.
Stuff the upper edge of the wing you've just top stitched with stuffing. Stuff it enough so the wing is
rigid along the upper edge.
b. Grab your body piece so far. If you haven't already, locate the wing placement lines found on the
paper pattern for the side (F). Align the open end of the wing within these lines so the raw edges
match up and the tips of the wings point down.
c. Flip the wings to the inside and baste the edges within the seam allowance to hold it for future steps.
sew desu ne?

a. Grab your head front (A)

and body piece so far. The
16. sew the front neck edge align head
over body
curved edges at the bottom
of the head and the top of the
body will be sewn together head
next as the neck. front
aligns
b. Flip the head so the neck with body
edge lines up with the body. front at
neck
Pin the fabrics together.
c. Sew the head to the body
along the neck edge. a. b.
d. Open up the pieces when
complete. sew head
Congrats! You just to body the
completed
completed the front half of front!
the dragon. Next up is the
back half, so now would be a
great time for a break.
c. d.
fuse to the fuse one strip

head back top to the head fuse to each
back bottom zipper tab
17. fuse the interfacing

a. If you have fusible interfacing, take this opportunity to fuse it to your fabrics. Follow the
manufacturer's instructions to secure it to the wrong side of your fabric.
First, fuse it to the wrong side of your head back (top) piece (J).
b. Take a 2" strip of the interfacing and fuse it against the straight edge of your head back (bottom)
piece (K).
c. And lastly fuse two bits to the back of your zipper tab pieces (I).
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trim zipper
to match lining align zipper
pocket tab over zipper sew a tab to
ends each end of
zipper
18. sew the zipper tabs

a. If you have a longer zipper, take this opportunity to trim the ends of it so it matches the short side of
your lining pocket (L). Make sure not to accidentally cut off the zipper slider.
b. Take one of your zipper tabs (I) and align the short end with the cut end of your zipper.
c. Sew the tab to the zipper along this edge. Sew very slowly and carefully over the zipper teeth (use just
the hand wheel if necessary to avoid a broken or bent needle). Repeat with the other zipper tab on the
other side of the zipper.
When complete, press the tabs away from the zipper.
a. Grab your head back

bottom piece (K) and your
19. sew the zipper to the head bottom
zipper with tabs (I) attached. align zipper over straight baste zipper to
Align the zipper (right side edge of head bottom head bottom
down) over the straight edge
of the head bottom so the
edge of the tape matches up
and the right sides are facing.
b. Baste the zipper to the head
bottom within the seam
allowance to hold it securely
for the next step. a. b.
c. Align the lining pocket (L)
over the zipper tape edge as align pocket
well. Center it over the zipper. over zipper sew through
all 3 layers
d. Sew the lining to the zipper
with a regular ¼" seam
allowance. Sew through all
three layers to secure the
zipper inside.
c. d.
sew desu ne?
align it over zipper,

grab right sides facing
baste to zipper
head back top
piece
20. sew the head top to the zipper

a. Flip your head back bottom (K) so the right sides are facing out and the other side of the zipper is
exposed.
Grab your head back top piece (J). We'll be sewing this to the other side of the zipper next.
b. Layer the straight edge of the head top over the zipper with right sides facing. Line up the edges.
c. Baste the head back top to the zipper along this edge, similar to back in step 19.
a. Flip the head over so you

can see the back side of the
21. sew the remaining lining
zipper.
b. Take your remaining lining
pocket piece (L) and align
a short end along the zipper
edge, just like before in step flip the piece
19. over
c. Sew the lining to the zipper align pocket
over back of
with the regular ¼" seam zipper
allowance through all 3
layers.
a. b.
d. When complete, press the
lining fabric away from the
zipper for a crisp edge.
sew through
all three layers
press the
lining away
from the zipper
c. d.
sew desu ne?
a. Lastly, match up the lining

pocket pieces so the raw
edges align.
b. Sew the lining pocket
pieces together along the
sew sides and bottom. Get as
right up
to zipper close as possible to the zipper
teeth without actually sewing over
match up the it. Back stitch several times
lining edges near the zipper for extra
strength.
This completes the head
22. sew the lining pocket back!
→→ Up next is the body back!
a. Grab your tail (M) and tail

fin pieces (N1/2). If you
23. sew the tail fins
haven't already, locate the tail
fin placement lines found sew fins to
align tail fins tail tip on both
on the paper pattern for the along tail tip sides
tail. Transfer them over to the
N2
right side of the fabric.
Align the slanted edges of the M
fin within these lines against
the edge of the tail.
b. Baste the fins to the tail
within the seam allowance. a. b.
Repeat on the other side
of the tail with another tail
fin. Make sure the tips are
pointing away from the tail.
open up when toothless
c. Repeat with the other tail complete version:
piece and the remaining tail
fin pieces so you have both
halves of the tail.
c. c.
sew desu ne?

a. Grab one of your long spike/

back fin pieces (B1/2). If you
place long haven't already, locate the
spikes along spike placement lines found
tail edge baste in place on the paper pattern for the
tail (M). Transfer them over
to the right side of the fabric.
Align the open end of the
spike within these lines so the
edges match up.
b. Baste the spike to the tail
within the seam allowance to
24. sew the tail spikes hold it securely for the next
step.
a. Grab your remaining tail

piece (M) with tail fins
25. sew the tail
attached (N1/2). Take them
both and align them with leave open
right sides facing and raw for turning
edges aligning.
b. Sew the tail pieces together
along the long curved edge,
going around each tail fin.
Leave the straight edge free
for turning the tail later.
c. Clip the seam allowances at
a. b.
the inner corners and curves
found beside the tail fins.
d. Turn the tail right side out top stitch
and top stitch in the seam between fins
between the tail fin and the and tail
tail, going through all the
layers. clip
seam
allowance
at inner
corners
c. d.
sew desu ne?

align over baste both

body back spikes and tail
stuff lightly
(keep stuffing mostly
in the tip)
26. baste the tail

a. Stuff the tail lightly with stuffing. Don't go too full here, as the tail will be against your back when
wearing the backpack and you don't want it to be too bulky. Keep most of the stuffing in the tip.
b. Grab one of your body back pieces (O). If you haven't already, locate the spike and tail placement
lines found on the paper pattern. Transfer them over to the right side of the fabric.
Grab one last spike piece (B1/2) and align the open end along the straight edge of the body back,
within the placement lines so the edges match up.
Align the open end of the tail (M) right below it, also between the placement lines. The tip of the tail
should point up.
c. Baste the spikes and tail to the body back to hold them securely for the next step.
sandwich spikes and spikes and tail are

tail between body pieces sew through
all layers secured inside
27. sew the body back

a. Grab your remaining body back piece (O). Layer it over the first so right sides are facing and the raw
edges match up.
b. Sew the body back pieces together along the straight edge (with the spikes and tail attached).
c. Open up the back pieces when complete. The spikes and tail should be fully secured inside the seam.
sew desu ne?

a. Grab your head back (J&K)

and body piece so far. The
28. sew the back neck align head
over body
curved edges at the bottom
of the head and the top of the
body will be sewn together head
next as the neck. back
aligns
b. Flip the head so the neck with body
edge lines up with the body. back at
neck
Pin the fabrics together.
c. If you haven't already, locate
the opening for turning
markings found on the paper
a. b.
pattern for the head bottom
leave open
(K). Transfer them over to the for turning
wrong side of the fabric.
Sew the head to the body the
completed
along the neck edge, but back!
leave an opening where you
marked.
d. Open up the pieces when
complete.
Next up is to add the straps!
c. d.
steps 29-31: non-adjustable straps

The next 3 steps go over how to make non-adjustable straps. It's a lot easier and faster than the adjust-
able version. But if you'd like to try making adjustable straps, skip ahead to step 32.
29. cut the straps

• Grab your webbing/strapping
approximate strap length
material. Cut two straps from it
using the chart as a guide for the size height (cut 2)
length.
child 50"-60" 26"
• Since the straps are not adjustable,
it's difficult to predict the exact size, teenager/
60"-64" 30"
so it's highly recommended that small adult
you test the fit before moving past
step 31. medium adult 65"-69" 34"
• If you or the recipient are larger large adult 70"-75" 38"
than the average person of the
suggested height, consider going a
size up.
sew desu ne?

trace the strap

placement squares
fold end of strap and sew around

align over square folded area
30. attach the straps at the top

a. If you haven't already, locate the strap placement squares found on the paper pattern for the head
back top (J). Transfer them over to the right side of the fabric. An easy way to do this is to cut out the
squares and trace the outlines using a fabric marker.
b. Grab one end of one of your strap pieces and fold it under by about 1-1½". Take this folded end and
layer it over the placement square with the fold pointing downward.
c. Sew over the folded edge in a square shape to secure it in place. Repeat with the other strap piece and
the other placement square.
a. If you haven't already, locate

the strap placement lines
31. attach the straps at the bottom
found on the body back
paper pattern (O). Transfer
them over to the right side of extend strap
the fabric. about ½" past
Take the other end of one of fabric
your strap pieces and align it
between the placement lines.
Extend it beyond the body ½"
fabric by about ½" for extra test straps first,
strength and security. then sew several
times
b. Baste the strap to the body
fabric within the seam
allowance. Repeat with the • If desired, take this time to test the fit of your straps. You can
other strap on the other side undo the basting stitches at the bottom of the strap to make them
for two complete straps. shorter if desired.
If everything fits all right, go back and stitch over the straps
several more times so the hold is very strong and secure.
sew desu ne?

steps 32-38: adjustable straps

The next 7 steps go over how to make adjustable straps. This version is more difficult and involved than
non-adjustable straps, but in the end the backpack is more adaptable. If you already did your straps in
the previous step, skip ahead to step 39, page 27.
32. cut the straps

• Grab your webbing/strapping approximate lower upper
material. Cut two lower loops and size height loop strap
two upper straps following the (cut 2) (cut 2)
measurement for your size. child 50"-60" 4" 29"
• Since the straps are adjustable,
teenager/
there's some leeway in the sizing, 60"-64" 4" 35"
but you can always shorten the small adult
straps later. medium adult 65"-69" 4" 39"
• If you or the recipient are larger
than the average person of the large adult 70"-75" 4" 43"
suggested height, consider going a
size up.
strap assembly: at-a-glance

• The next 6 steps go over how to assemble the straps into your strap hardware. This illustration shows
an at-a-glance view of what we’ll be doing in more detail next.
guide
strap through
tri-glide again
4
loop upper
strap through
ring
3
wrap upper strap
2 around middle bar
of tri-glide; fold
over and sew
fold under
end of strap 5
wrap the lower and sew to bag
1 loop around your
ring; secure to bag
sew desu ne?

loop strap
through ring
extend strap
by about ½"
33. loop the rings

a. Grab one of your lower loop strap pieces and your rectangular ring.
b. Wrap the loop around the ring and bring the short ends of the loop together.
c. If you haven't already, locate the strap placement lines found on the paper pattern for the body back
(O). Transfer them over to the right side of the fabric.
Place the ends of the lower loop between these placement lines. Make the strap extend about ½"
beyond the fabric for extra stability.
Baste the strap to the fabric within the seam allowance. Stitch over the area several times for a very
strong hold.
a. Grab one of your upper strap

pieces and your tri-glide.
34. loop the middle bar
feed through
b. Take one end of your upper one slot
strap and insert it into one of
the slots of the tri-glide from
the bottom up.
c. Feed the strap into the
remaining slot of the tri-glide
from the top down.
d. Fold over the strap so it
overlaps by about 1½".
a. b.
feed down through
second slot
overlap
the end
c. d.
sew desu ne?
trace the placement

squares
OR:
stitch clip the
the overlap
overlap & stitch
later
35. secure the middle bar

a. Stitch the strap where it overlaps with itself in a square around the edges.
b. alternatively: you could also clip the strap here to temporarily hold it in case you want to try on the
backpack first and stitch it later.
c. If you haven't already, locate the strap placement squares found on the paper pattern for the head
back top (J). Transfer them over to the right side of the fabric. An easy way to do this is to cut out the
squares and trace the outlines using a fabric marker.
a. Take your back piece so far

and place it on your work
36. loop the upper strap
table with right sides facing
place
up. Place your upper strap back and feed
on top with the folded end strap end
facing down. right through
side up ring
b. Grab the other end of your
strap and feed it through
the other side of your
rectangular ring.
c. Take that same end and
feed it through one slot of
a. b.
the tri-glide again, from the
bottom up. feed strap
→→ Push the other end of down through
feed strap second slot
the strap out of the way through one
to make room. slot
d. Feed it through the remaining

slot of the tri-glide, from the
top down.
c. d.
sew desu ne?
flip entire strap so

fold over fold faces down
end of strap
37. align the upper strap

a. Pull the upper strap through the tri-glide and it should look as shown. All the looping is complete!
b. Fold over the end of the strap by about 1½".
c. Flip the strap so the folded end is facing down onto the placement square you marked before.
sew strap to a. Stitch the folded end of

back around the strap to the placement
overlap square in a rectangle.
repeat
with b. Repeat steps 33-38 with your
other remaining strap, ring, and
strap
pieces tri-glide pieces so the other
side of the backpack now also
has a strap.
Now would be a good time to
do a test fit of the strap length
if that's a concern.
38. secure the upper strap
sew desu ne?

clip
sew corner at
line up all the neck
notches way
with around
seams
39. sew the front to the back

a. Grab your body front and body back so far. Next we'll be sewing this front and back together, but first
make sure all the extra bits are tucked inside -- the arms, legs, wings, spikes, straps, and tail.
Line up the front to the back, matching the seams at the neck. The notch on the head back top (J)
matches with the seam on the head front (A). The notch on the belly (E) matches with the seam
on the body back (O)
b. Sew the body front to the back all the way around.
c. Before turning, make small clips into the seam allowance at the corners of the neck.
pull out one the stuff

limb at a time completed body; focus
body! on edges
40. turn right side out

a. Turn the body right side out through the opening in the back of the neck. Pull out one limb at a time
for the easiest result.
b. The body is complete! Now onto stuffing!
c. For best results, pull the lining out so it's not inside the body. Then stuff the bottom half of the dragon
lightly with stuffing. Keep most of the stuffing near the edges so the finished plush can develop its
shape. Keep the stuffing light in the middle since that's where your belongings will go.
sew desu ne?

stuff head;
focus on edges shove
lining back
into body
stuff nose until there

are no wrinkles
41. stuff the body

a. Flip the plush over and stuff the head next. Once again, focus most of the stuffing on the outer edges
of the plush so the head gets defined.
b. Also push a lot of stuffing into the nose area so there are no wrinkles in the fabric.
c. Once the stuffing is to your satisfaction, shove the lining back inside the body and smooth it out with
your hands.
fill any bring needle out

extra areas from edge of opening ladder stitch
closed
42. sew the back neck closed

a. Double check any areas that need more stuffing before closing up
the plush. The back of the body and the head can sometimes look
a little hollow. The 'cheek' area just above the neck typically needs a
lot to look full too. 2 1
b. Make sure the seam allowances in the opening are tucked inside and
prepare to ladder stitch it closed. Thread a hand-sewing needle and
knot it at the end. Insert the needle from the inside of the opening 4
and out of the plush near one edge of the opening. This will leave 3 seam allowance
(folded inside)
the knot inside the plush.
c. Continue from here doing a ladder stitch. Take a 1/8” stitch into the
fold of one side of the opening, then go across and take another.
(See illustration at the right). Keep going down the opening until you reach the end.
sew desu ne?

a. When you’re finished, stitch a

knot into the end of the seam.
pull at thread Then insert the needle near
while clipping the finished knot and out of
bring needle the plush about 1-2” away.
out 1-2" away
b. Pull the thread through and
hold it taut while snipping
the thread. The excess thread
should sink back inside the
plush -- all hidden!
43. clip the threads
a. Grab your horn pieces (P).

Take two of them and align
44. sew the horns
them with right sides facing
and raw edges matching up.
b. Sew them together along the leave
open for
long curved edge. Leave the turning
short straight edge free for
turning the horn later.
c. Turn the horn right side
out and repeat with the
remaining two horn pieces for
two completed horns total.
a. b.
d. Stuff the horns semi-firmly
with stuffing when complete.
c. d.
sew desu ne?
stitch pull at thread to

around cinch horn closed
opening
of horn
gathering:
The process of shortening the
length of a piece of fabric by sewing
long stitches through it. When the
thread is pulled, it forms small folds that
ruffle the fabric.
gathering stitch:
45. cinch up the horns A long version of the running stitch, which
is a stitch done by weaving the needle
a. Hand sew a gathering stitch around the opening of the horn. in and out of a length of fabric going
along a line. The long stitches (about
b. Pull at the thread of the gathering stitch to cinch the horn ¼”-½” long) gather the fabric
completely closed. Sew a few knots into the opening to hold when pulled later.
it shut. If you have thread leftover, keep it attached for joining
the horn to the head next.
place about 2" a. Place the cinched end of the

away from center horn on the top of the head.
The cinched end should be
pointing down and it should
2" 2" be about 2" away from the
center seam. Note that the
horns curve slightly toward
ladder stitch
around base the center for an accurate
character look.
b. Hold the horn in place by
sticking pins down into the
base of the horn and through
46. attach the horns the head. Stitch the horn to
the head with a ladder stitch
around the base.
Repeat with the remaining
horn for both horns on the
dragon head.
sew desu ne?

a. Since the back of the dragon

will be flat against your back
when worn, it's helpful to
secure the tail so it doesn't
move. Flip the tail so it lies
flush against one side of the
body or the other as you
place prefer.
tail flush
against ladder b. Ladder stitch the inside of the
body stitch tail tail to the body. Go back and
to body forth once or twice to secure
it strongly for all the wear it
47. secure the tail will endure.
Congrats!
This completes
your backpack!
Now try it on and
go on an
adventure!
sew desu ne?

pg. 1/9
wing pla
cement
Cut 2 from main fabric

¼” seam allowance
NAP
SIDE (F)
leg
pla
STRETCH
ce
men
t
ZIPPER TAB (I) h t f u ry: tiny

spike
nigh
Cut 2 from main fabric nig

optional: cut 2 from
fusible interfacing
¼” seam allowance e
pik
tin
ys A1 A2
y:
ur
I
f
ht
lig
placement
applique
www.cholyknight.com
& LIGHT FURY
Plush Backpack
HEAD FRONT (A)

P A T T E R N
e
pik
ys
tin
:
ry
fu
ht
nig
NIGHT
pikes ng s
ry: lo fu
night
zipper guide
STRETCH
STRETCH
A3 A4
NAP
A1 A2
tops
titc tiny spike
hing night fury:
WINGS (H)
Cut 4 from main
fabric
NAP
STRETCH
pg. 2/9 /9
zipper guide
NAP
NIGHT & LIGHT FURY

Plush Backpack
P A T T E R N
www.cholyknight.com
HEAD BACK BOTTOM (K)
STR
A3 A4
opening for turning
STRETCH
HORN (P)
NAP

pg. 3/9 /9
B1 B2
NIGHT & LIGHT FURY

acement
strap
optional: cut 1 from fusible interfacing
Plush Backpack
pg. 4/9
HEAD BACK TOP (J)
P A T T E R N
ww w.cholyknight.com
TAIL (M)
placement

long spike
placement
strap
STRETCH
STRETCH
NAP
ance
zipper guide
NAP allow eam

¼” s i c
fabr m red
fro bric
fa
Cut 2 m main 1)
fro (N
Cut 2 IL FIN Y
TA T FUR
t
en NIGH
em
ac
pl
tip
il
ta
nt
eme
plac lique
app
t
men
ip place
tail t
/9 zipper guide pg. 5/9
B1 B2
place
stra
t
men
e
plac
arm
arm placement
op
STRET
CH
NIGHT
& LIGHT
NIGHT
Plush B FURY
ackpac
P A
w w w.c T T E R N
k
& LIGHT FURY
holyk
night.c
B om
E
Cut 1 fr LLY (E)
om
¼” seam main fabric
allowan
ce
NAP
leg p
lacem
ent
leg placement
ARMS (D)
STRETCH
NIGHT & LIGHT FURY
NAP
Plush Backpack
P A T T E R N
www.cholyknight.com
long spike placement
BODY BACK (O)

STRETCH
strap placement
NAP
NAP
STRETCH
LIGHT FURY TAIL
FIN (N2)
tail placement
bric
Cut 4 from main fa
pg. 6/9
NAP
NIGHT& LIGHT FURY
fabric
¼” seam
allowance
Plush Backpack
Cut 4 from main

P A T T E R N
www.cholyknight.com
NAP
LINING POCKET (L)
(B2)
Cut 2 from lining fabric
BACK FINS
STRETCH
pg. 7/9
C1 C2
SP TINY
IK
Cu ES
t 4 (
ma or 12 C)
i
¼ n fab from
allo ” seam ric
w anc
e
NA
P
(B1)
C1 C2
LONG
SPIKES
fabric
¼” seam
allowance
Cut 6 from main
NAP
pg. 8/9 /9
pg. 9/9
NAP

LEGS (G)
STRETCH
NOSTRILS PUPILS
applique applique
trace & cut trace & cut
SKULL 1 each of black
trace & cut 2 2 of black or
from white dark gray
EYE SHINES
applique
trace & cut
2 of white
EYES
applique
trace & cut
1 each of green
or blue

Ночная и Белая Фурия - инструкция

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Ночная и Белая Фурия - инструкция

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What is this sewing pattern for?

What is this sewing pattern for?

What materials are required to make this project?

What materials are required to make this project?

night & light fury

chibi plush backpack

night & light fury backpack

sew desu ne?

materials & tools:

sew desu ne?

webbing/strapping: tri-glides & rings:

sew desu ne?

printing the pattern:

sew desu ne?

cutting the fabric:

cutting layout: both versions:

J H H H H D D D D • If desired, mark the cut fabric

sew desu ne?

fuse eyes Toothless

2a. other applique options

3. sew the long spikes

sew desu ne?

4. baste the forehead spikes

a. Grab your remaining head

5. sew the head front

sew desu ne?

a. Grab your tiny spike

spikes point light fury: night fury:

7. baste the tiny spikes

sew desu ne?

a. Grab your arm pieces (D).

9. baste the arms

sew desu ne?

a. Grab your side pieces (F).

leave open two complete

11. sew the legs

sew desu ne?

legs will point

12. baste the legs

leave open for

trim seam allowance

13. sew the wings

sew desu ne?

use paper template to

14. top stitch the wings

15. baste the wings

sew desu ne?

a. Grab your head front (A)

fuse to the fuse one strip

17. fuse the interfacing

sew desu ne?

18. sew the zipper tabs

a. Grab your head back

align it over zipper,

20. sew the head top to the zipper

a. Flip the head over so you

a. Lastly, match up the lining

→→ Up next is the body back!

a. Grab your tail (M) and tail