Gengar Plush Sewing Pattern

gengar
plush
a free sewing pattern by

gengar plush 2 free sewing tutorial
gengar plush
The spooky fun can begin now that this popular ghost
Pokemon has joined the party! Gengar is an especially
skills used:
creepy Pokemon with its wide, sinister grin and spiky • Fusible web applique
silhouette. It has a round, sitting body with tiny arms and • Curved sewing
legs, pointy ears, and three rows of spikes going down the • Basting
back. • Darts
Since it's just one big body piece, it sews up rather quickly • Ladder stitch
compared to other Pokemon. • Sewing small pieces
• Matching notches and points
difficulty:
makes:
The most difficult part of this plush is matching all the One plush: about 6" tall from
points in the curves of the ear and legs. The arms and feet bottom of body to top of head, 6"
are also sewn on by hand, so give yourself more time for wide from each side of body, and
that. 6" long from front of face to tip of
tail.
pointy 3 rows
ears of back
spikes
round
body
arms &
feet sewn tiny
on by tail
hand
sew desu ne?

| www.cholyknight.com |
// ©2022 Choly Knight // Items sewn using this pattern may be sold. Credit to “Choly Knight” or “Sew Desu Ne?” is appreciated.
You may not reproduce, share, freely distribute, or sell this pattern as your own in digital or printed form.
materials & tools:

• 1/3 yd. of purple fabric
• 5" x 3" of white applique fabric for
smile
• 3" x 3" of red applique fabric for eyes
• 3" x 3" of black applique fabric for
pupils
• 5" x 5" piece of light or heavy duty
fusible web
• sewing thread to match main fabric
and applique fabrics
• poly-fil stuffing
• basic sewing tools (sewing machine,
scissors, iron, needles, pins, fabric
marker, seam ripper)
suggested applique fabrics:

• Good applique fabrics include flannel, cotton, felt,
minky, and fleece.
• Flannel and cotton are best for detailed applique with
a lot of layers because they’re thinner. Meanwhile felt,
minky, and fleece are better for simpler applique.
• Flannel is used in the example instructions (page 7).
fusible web: heavyweight

lightweight fusible
• Fusible web adhesive is a sheet of fusible
adhesive with a paper backing.
Not to be confused with fusible
interfacing, which is adhesive
attached to a fabric/fiber backing.
• Some common brands are Pellon
& HeatnBond
• In countries outside the US, it may
also be known as bondaweb
• It comes in light and heavy duty
varieties. Lightweight strength is
meant for applique you intend to
sew later. Heavy duty versions are
for a no-sew bond. If you try to sew
them later your machine might
have trouble penetrating the glue.
sew desu ne?

fa bric com p a r is on:
fe lt cotton j e r s ey f le e ce m i nky
suggested fabrics:
long pile minky
minky or fleece
Medium weight, plush fabrics with about
minky 20%-30% stretch along the crosswise grain work
best for this project. The varieties shown to the left
are some good options and names to look for. Try
cuddle fleece to avoid heavyweight versions of fleece that are
intended for outdoor apparel or they may cause
trouble for the detailed areas.
You can also use non-stretch fabrics (such as felt),
micro fleece but be aware that the curves will be more difficult
to sew and the result will look different. The plush
will become more elongated and the edges will
anti-pill fleece look pointier.
10" of minky
stretches to 13"
= 30% stretch
fleece
minky vs. felt
sew desu ne?

printing the pattern:

Set your computer to print
pages 19-22.
If you’re unfamiliar with
printing and assembling a
.pdf pattern, read the steps to
follow.
For the best results, use
a .pdf reader like Adobe
Reader. That's what is 1 2
shown here and will give you At the print dialog box, check Print the pages needed for
the most control over the the box that says print at the file. You might have one
settings. “Actual Size” or 100%. Any or more. Either way, be sure
other selection (such as “Fit to you have the full collection by
page”) will distort the pattern noting the page numbers in the
so it’s slightly larger or smaller corner.
and we don’t want that.
3 4 5
It’s likely your printer will have To line up the pattern pages, You can trace the patterns onto
a margin that ensures your match up the corresponding a different paper, or you can
image doesn’t print to the very diamond shapes. Each diamond also just cut them straight from
edge. Assembly will be easier if will have a letter, so it’s simply the printer paper -- be sure
you trim off this blank margin a matter of matching A1 to A2, that each piece is fully taped
edge. This will give you pages B3 to B4 and so on. The faint together along the joins so they
that overlap slightly during gray lines indicate the border of don’t fall apart when you cut
assembly. If you trim across the every page, you should be able them.
gray outline boxes, this will give to line those up as well. When
you pages that don’t overlap the diamond goes together,
but rather butt against each tape it in place.
other.
If you have many pages, it’s
easier to tape up the pages into
rows first. Then tape the rows
together into a full block.
sew desu ne?

cutting the fabric:
1 2 3 4
Place pattern on the fabric, Pin the pattern in place, use Using the paper as a For all fur fabrics, shake the
and make sure the stretch pattern weights, or trace the template, cut out the fabric. excess fuzz away.
line matches the stretch outline of the pattern with a Cut the required amount
of the fabric. The nap line washable marker. according to the pattern.
should go in the direction of
the fur.
cutting layout:
STRE TCH
main body fabric
1/3 yd.; 12” long

H H
B
J
A D D F F
G G
NAP
F F J
E E B I I I I J J
C C
42" wide
before you begin:

• Briefly read the project instructions so you know what to expect.
• If desired, mark the cut fabric pieces with the markings and symbols from the pattern. Or
wait until the applicable step before transferring.
• Note that a ¼" seam allowance is used throughout the project, which is included in the
pattern templates.
sew desu ne?

smile: white hold applique while

trace onto pulling paper away
paper side eyes: red
pupil: black
a. b.
1. prepare the face applique c.
a. Grab your fusible web and applique templates. Trace the face templates. You'll need:
• smile (1) • eyes (2) • pupils (2) • eye shines (2)
b. Fuse the bumpy (adhesive) side of the fusible web onto the applique fabrics, following the color
guides on the paper templates:
• smile & eye shines on white • eyes on red • pupils on black
c. Cut out your applique pieces and grab your front piece (A). Grab your first applique layer, the
smile. Set your paper pattern on top of the front piece. Align the applique piece on top where the
placement markings are. Next, carefully pull the paper pattern away while holding the applique piece
in place.
add eyes add remaining

fuse next small pieces
smile first
d. e. f.
d. Fuse the first applique layer (the smile) with your iron. Use a press cloth, such as a scrap piece of
cotton. This will help protect any polyester or fuzzy fabrics from melting or scorching.
e. Add the next layer, the eyes.
f. Continue building up the eye with the next piece, the pupils. Arrange and fuse it the same as the
other pieces using the paper pattern (and the photo) as a guide.
Lastly, add the smallest pieces like the eye shines.
sew desu ne?

4
2
straight stitch; applique 3
great for felt whipstitch 1
2a. other applique options

a. Other good options for applique include a straight stitch, which involves sewing around the edge of
the applique pieces with a straight stitch using matching thread -- about 1/8” in from the edge.
b. You can also applique by hand; I prefer a whipstitch. Thread a hand-sewing needle with some
matching thread and knot it. Bring the thread up from the back of the project; about 1/8” in from the
edge of the applique shape. Bring it down perpendicular from the curve, just outside of the applique
shape. This completes one stitch.
c. For the next stitch, bring the needle back up about 1/8” away from the previous stitch and 1/8” in
from the edge just as in the first stitch. Once again, bring it down just outside the applique shape.
Continue this way until you’ve sewn around the shape.
add remaining fold blend

small pieces along stitching
point of into fold
dart
3. sew the front darts

a. Grab your front piece (A). This piece a dart along the
bottom and top that helps form the round shape. They're the
small wedges cut into the main shape. They're also labeled on darts:
the paper pattern for easy identification. Darts are a v-shaped wedge sewn
Start by folding the fabric along the point of the dart so the into a pattern piece that create a 3D
right sides are facing and the raw edges match up. shape in the fabric.
b. Sew from the opening of the dart down to the fold of the The two lines of the darts are
sometimes called the legs. These
fabric. lead up to the point.
c. Try to blend your stitching into the fold of the fabric for a You can think of darts like a partial
smooth transition and a rounder finish to the stuffed plush. seam. One that only goes part-way
through the fabric.
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a. Grab your two ear front

pieces (B). These will be
4. attach the front ears stretch curve
to fit along ears
attached to the inner curves
of your front (A) piece next.
These pieces have numbered
points for easy identification,
points 3 and 4. front
will join to
b. Stretch the inner curve of ears
the front to match up with
the front ear. Points 3 and 4
should match up. a. b.
c. Sew the front to the ear from
points 3 to 4. repeat for
sew from both ears
points 3 to 4
d. Repeat with your remaining
ear piece on the other side so 4 3
both ears are attached.
c. d.
1
1
inner legs will 2 2

join to front
align notches repeat for both
5. sew the inner legs

and points 1 and 2 inner legs
a. Grab your inner leg pieces (C). The inner curve on both the front and inner legs will match up next.
They're labeled with points 1 and 2 for easy alignment.
b. Align the inner curve of the inner leg with the inner curve of the front piece. Match up the notches on
the inner legs with the notches on the front. Also line up points 1 and 2.
c. Sew the inner leg to the front along the inner curve from points 1 to 2. Repeat with the other inner
leg piece so both are joined.
sew desu ne?

a. Grab your side back (D) and 6. attach the back ears
ear back (E) pieces. We're
stretch curve
going to repeat step 4 but to fit along ears
with the back instead. This
begins with finding the two
edges with points 5 and 6.
b. Stretch the inner curve of the
back to match up the edge on
the ear back. Line up points
5 and 6.
side back will
c. Sew the back to the ear from
points 5 to 6.
a. join to ears
b.
d. Repeat for both side back
pieces for two ears total. sew from
points 5 to 6
5 6
repeat for
both ears
c. d.
a. Grab your spike pieces (F &

H). Take two matching ones
and align them with right
sides facing and the raw
edges aligning.
b. Sew the pieces together
along the spiky edge. Leave
the curved edge free for
turning them right side out
later. You'll need two side
spikes and one center spike.
leave open
7. sew the spikes for turning
sew desu ne?

a. Trim the excess seam

3 spikes total
allowance along the inner
and outer corners of the
spikes. This will reduce bulk
and increase flexibility when
the piece is turned later.
b. Turn the spikes right side out
and define the points with a trim seam allowance
chopstick or similar turning at corners
tool.
8. clip & turn the spikes
baste spikes to
back pieces
align align
side center
spikes spikes with
with side center back
back
9. baste the spikes

a. Grab your side back piece (D). If you haven't already, note the spike
placement lines found on the paper pattern. Transfer them over to
the right side of the fabric. The spikes will be attached to this edge. basting:
Grab your side spike piece (F) and align it over the side back piece so A form of temporary
the raw edges match up. There's also a notch marking to align to help sewing meant to hold
ensure the tallest spike is near the top of the head. Pin the fabrics pieces in place. A long
together. stitch length is often
used for this reason.
b. Grab one of your center back pieces (G) and your center spikes The finished result is
(H). Repeat part A, pinning the center spikes to the center back edge not meant to be seen
of the back piece, matching up the double notches. and sometimes is even
removed later (depending
c. Baste your spikes to the back piece to hold them securely for future
on your project).
steps.
sew desu ne?

center back is
center sewn to both sides
back will
join to side
align
point 2
10. sew the back center to the sides

2
2
a. Grab your side back (D) and center back (G) so far. These pieces will be joined next along the
curves. You can also look out for the numbered points for extra help, point 2.
b. Align one of your center back pieces with one of your side back pieces so right sides are facing
and the raw edges match up. Point 2 should align at the bottom corner, and the spikes should be
sandwiched between the fabric layers. Pin the fabrics together.
c. Sew the center back to the side along this edge. Repeat for both back pieces so you have a pair. Open
up the pieces when complete.
trim seam
align allowance at
center tail tip
back edge
leave
open for
turning
11. sew the center back

a. Align your two back pieces with right sides facing and the raw edges matching up. Make sure your
center spikes (H) are sandwiched between the layers. Pin the fabrics together.
b. If you haven't already, note the opening for turning marking found on the paper pattern for the
center back (G). Transfer the markings to the wrong side of the fabric. Sew the center back of the
plush only, but leave an opening for turning as you marked. Start at the top corner, go around the
tail, leave an opening, and stop at the bottom corner.
c. Trim the excess seam allowance around the tip of the tail to reduce bulk for later.
sew desu ne?

body front will be

joined to back
12. align the front to the back

a. Turn your back piece right side out and all of the spikes should be secured inside the seams.
a. Grab both of your front and back pieces so far. Align them with right sides facing. We're going to sew
around the entire body. Experts should be able to handle this all in one go, but we're going to break it
down into several parts for beginners.
a. Start by aligning the top of

align center sew the head. Match up the front
top and ear around ear
top dart with the center back
seam. Also align the ears
by matching the ear seams
(from steps 4 and 6).
b. Sew the ear front to the back
all the way around, starting
the center top and pivoting
around each corner of the
ear.
13. sew the ear
sew desu ne?

a. Next, line up the sides. This is

the edge starting at the base
of the ear and going down to
sew
point 1. Pin the front to the down to
back at the sides. align point 1
b. Sew from the base of the ear sides
to point 1 at the top of the
leg. 1
14. sew the side
a. Next, line up the legs. This is

the edge starting at point 1
and going around to point 2.
Pin the inner leg (C) to the
1 side back (D).
b. Sew from point 1 at the top
of the leg around to point 2
2
near the center bottom.
align legs
sew from
point 1 to 2
15. sew the leg
a. After that, line up the center

bottom. This is the edge
between the legs. You'll
find the center bottom dart
should align with the center
back seam. You'll also be
aligning point 2 on each side.
b. Sew from point 2 to point 2 2 2
between the legs.
align center
bottom sew from
point 2 to 2
16. sew the center bottom
sew desu ne?

finish sewing
around the body trim seam the finished body
allowance at corners
17. finish sewing the front to the back

a. Complete the body by sewing around the other side, repeating steps 13 through 16 but backwards.
Sew across the center top, around the ear, down the side, and around the leg to meet the stitching at
the bottom.
b. Trim and clip the seam allowances at the corners and curves. Begin with the outer corners at the tips
of the ears. Then clip the seam allowances at the corners of the body, particularly at points 1, 2, 3,
and 4vvv. This will help reduce bulk and increase flexibility when the piece is turned later.
c. Turn the body right side out through the opening in the bottom of the body.
stuff sneak
ears first more
stuffing
into ears
and legs
fill up body
most of the way
18. stuff the ears and legs

a. Begin stuffing the plush, starting with the ears. Fill up the tips so they don't deflate later.
b. Next, fill the body with stuffing most of the way. This will help keep the ear stuffing in place and not
creep out later.
c. While the body is almost full, you can sneak the stuffing into the legs. This will help keep the leg
stuffing from falling out. Make sure they're firm enough so there are no wrinkles in the seams.
You can also sneak more into the ears to hold the stuffing in place.
sew desu ne?

bring needle out

finish near one edge of
by opening
stuffing
tail
fill up rest
of body
19. stuff the rest of the body

a. Start to finish filling up the body. Make sure there is plenty of stuffing near the front darts so there
are no wrinkles near the seams.
b. Lastly, fill up the tip of the tail so it takes shape.
c. Once the plush is stuffed, make sure the seam allowances in the opening are tucked inside and
prepare to ladder stitch it closed. Thread a hand-sewing needle and knot it at the end. Insert the
needle from the inside of the opening and out of the plush near one edge of the opening. This will
leave the knot inside the plush.
ladder stitch bring needle

closed pull at thread
out 1"-2" away while clipping
20. ladder stitch the body closed

a. Continue from here doing a ladder stitch. Take a 1/8” stitch into the
fold of one side of the opening, then go across and take another. Keep
going down the opening until you reach the end. 1
2
b. When you’re finished, stitch a knot into the end of the seam. Then
insert the needle near the finished knot and out of the plush about
1-2” away.
c. Pull the thread through and hold it taut while snipping the thread. 4
3 seam allowance
The excess thread should sink back inside the plush -- all hidden! (folded inside)
sew desu ne?

trace repeat
seam line for both
from paper arms &
pattern feet
21. sew the arms & feet

a. Grab your arm and feet pieces (I & J). Take two of them and align them with right sides facing and
the raw edges matching up.
b. The tiny claws are a little detailed, so if you need help sewing them accurately, it helps to transfer the
stitching line from the paper template. Trim away the seam allowance from the template along the
claws. Then use it as a tracing template on the wrong side of the fabric.
c. Sew them together all the way around the traced line.
a. Trim the excess seam

allowance around the tips of
22. turn & stuff the arms & feet
the claws. cut through
one layer of
b. To turn the pieces, cut a 1" fabric only
slit through one layer of the trim
seam
fabric only, near the base. allowance
There's also a cutting guide between
on the paper pattern for extra claws
help.
c. Turn all the arms and feet
(I & J) right side out through
a. b.
the opening you've cut.
Define the points with a
stuff
chopstick or similar turning lightly
tool.
d. Stuff the arms lightly with
stuffing. Give them just
enough so they take shape.
You may want to put small
bits in the claws so they take
shape as well.
c. d.
sew desu ne?

align sew
beneath lift up
around arm arm to sew
ear seam for underneath
shoulder
23. attach the arms

a. Take one of the arms and align it over the side. Place the cut side of the arm down onto the side
seam about ½" below the ear seam.
b. Ladder stitch the arms to the body, going around the cut from step 22. Sew near the arm seam when
attaching the shoulder.
c. For the underside of the arm, you'll have to flip it up and sew beneath the arm.
Repeat for both arms.
align feet
onto legs
ladder
stitch
around
cut
24. attach the feet

a. Take one of your feet and align it over the leg seam (from step congrats!
15). The cut side should be facing down. This completes
b. Sew the foot to the leg using a ladder stitch. Go around the cut your plush! Now
you made in step 22. Go around with long stitches for the first give it a big hug!
pass. Check that you like the placement, then go around again
with tinier, neater stitches for the second pass.
Repeat for both feet.
sew desu ne?

pg. 1/4
TEST SQUARE
2”
measure this square to
be sure you’ve printed
at the proper
NAP
5 proportions
cen
ter
spik
e
sid
(H )
es
plac
pik
NAP
e
e
men
(F)
t
pla
cem
6
ent
BA CK
SIDE(D) rple
u
mp
2 fro
Cut fabric
eam E TCH
¼” s ance STR
allow
E N TER )
C K (G
BA2 Cfrom purpl
e
1
Cut ic
fabr owance
E TCH m al
l
” sea
g
STR
nin
¼
tur
for
ing
en
op
2 2
pg. 2/4
3 3
FRONT (A)
Cut 1 from purple
fabric
¼” seam
allowance
dart
4 4
NAP
applique
placement
1 STRETCH 1
dart
2 2
e
rpl
pu
rom ce
t 2 f abric wan
Cu f allo
CENTE m STRETCH
STRETCH ” sea
¼
R SPIK
cutting line
ES (H)
NAP
ARM (I)
Cut 4 from
purple fabric
NAP
¼” seam
allowance
ric
le fab
p e
m pur wanc
o llo
SIDE Cu t 4 fr am a
s e
SPIK ¼”
ES (F STRETCH
)
NAP
1
2
cutting line
STRETCH
FOOT (J)
¼” seam allowance
NAP
NAP
INNER
Cut 4 from purple fabric
LEG (C)
Cut 2 from purp
le fa
¼” seam allowan bric
ce
pg. 3/4
pg. 4/4
5 6
BACK (E)
EAR
NAP
STRETCH
STRETCH
NAP
EAR
FRONT (B)
4 3
EYES
applique
trace & cut 1 each
from red
trace & cut 1 from white
PUPILS
applique
applique
trace & cut 1 each

SMILE
from black
EYE SHINES
applique
trace & cut 1 each
from white

Gengar Plush Sewing Pattern

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Gengar Plush Sewing Pattern

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Gengar Plush Sewing Pattern

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gengar

a free sewing pattern by

sew desu ne?

materials & tools:

suggested applique fabrics:

fusible web: heavyweight

sew desu ne?

fa bric com p a r is on:

minky vs. felt

sew desu ne?

printing the pattern:

sew desu ne?

cutting the fabric:

1/3 yd.; 12” long

before you begin:

sew desu ne?

smile: white hold applique while

add eyes add remaining

sew desu ne?

2a. other applique options

add remaining fold blend

3. sew the front darts

sew desu ne?

a. Grab your two ear front

inner legs will 2 2

5. sew the inner legs

sew desu ne?

a. Grab your spike pieces (F &

sew desu ne?

a. Trim the excess seam

8. clip & turn the spikes

9. baste the spikes

sew desu ne?

10. sew the back center to the sides

11. sew the center back

sew desu ne?

body front will be

12. align the front to the back

a. Start by aligning the top of

13. sew the ear

sew desu ne?

a. Next, line up the sides. This is

14. sew the side

a. Next, line up the legs. This is

15. sew the leg

a. After that, line up the center

16. sew the center bottom

sew desu ne?

17. finish sewing the front to the back

18. stuff the ears and legs

sew desu ne?

bring needle out

19. stuff the rest of the body

ladder stitch bring needle

20. ladder stitch the body closed

sew desu ne?

21. sew the arms & feet

a. Trim the excess seam

sew desu ne?

23. attach the arms