Bat Cat Girl Doll Plush Sewing Pattern PDF

bat & cat girl
doll plush
a free sewing pattern by
bat & cat girl doll plush 2 free sewing tutorial
bat & cat girl doll plush

This cute doll has simple body parts and
streamlined features that make it faster to get
to the fun dressing-up!
The mischievous pair here are ready to trick-
or-treat as a cute bat & cat, complete with easy
cotton dresses and sweet animal ear hats.
difficulty:
The hardest part of this plush is likely

attaching all the small pieces. But if you baste
the pieces first and check your placement
before moving on you'll certainly have success.
materials & tools:

• ¼ yd. of fabric for body
• ¼ yd. or 9" x 15" piece of accent fabric for hair
• 1/8 yd. or 5" x 5" piece of accent fabric for shorts
• 1/8 yd. or 5" x 5" piece of accent fabric for shoes
• optional: ¼ yd. or 7" x 12" piece of accent fabric for skills used:
wings or tail
• ¼ yd. or 8" x 12" piece of stretchy apparel fabric for hat • Fusible web applique
• ¼ yd. or 8" x 13" piece of cotton fabric for dress • Curved sewing
• 50" of ¼" wide ribbon for dress • Basting
• 3” x 3” piece of black applique fabric (such as cotton, • Darts
felt, or flannel) for eyes and mouth • Ladder stitch
• 2” x 2” piece of white applique fabric for eye shines • Hemming
• 2" x 2" piece of accent applique fabric for eye highlights
• 6" x 6" piece of light or heavy duty fusible web makes:
• sewing thread to match main fabric and applique
fabrics One doll: about 9" tall and
• poly-fil stuffing 5" wide
• basic sewing tools (sewing machine, scissors, iron, And one hat & dress to fit
needles, pins, fabric marker, seam ripper)
sew desu ne?

| www.cholyknight.com |
// ©2019 Choly Knight // Items sewn using this pattern may be sold. Credit to “Choly Knight” or “Sew Desu Ne?” is appreciated.
You may not reproduce, share, freely distribute, or sell this pattern as your own in digital or printed form.
main body suggested fabrics:

Plush, stretchy fabrics such as fleece or minky
are suggested. The variations of fleece and minky
minky mentioned to the left would work well, but really any
plushy fabric with a bit of stretch on the crosswise
grain would be well-suited.
Stretch fabrics like fleece or minky will create a
cuddle fleece more squat, round shape when stuffed. Non-stretchy
fabrics, like felt or cotton, won’t stretch when
stuffed so the resulting plush will look elongated as
shown.
micro fleece
minky vs. felt
anti-pill fleece
fleece
hat dress
suggested fabrics: suggested fabrics:
Medium-weight stretchy fabrics like fleece This part is more flexible. Anything from
or interlock knit would work well for this light to medium-weight knit or woven fabrics
part. The fabric needs to stretch around the would work well for this dress. This would be
finished doll's head. a perfect time to utilize some fun Halloween
cotton prints.
sew desu ne?

printing the pattern:

To print the pattern, set your computer to print pages 23-26. If you’re unfamiliar with printing
and assembling a .pdf pattern, read the steps below.
At the print dialog box, check the box that says

print at “Actual Size” or 100%. Any other selection
(such as “Fit to page”) will distort the pattern so it’s
slightly larger or smaller and we don’t want that.
Print the pages needed for the file. You might have
one or more. Either way, be sure you have the
full collection by noting the page numbers in the
corner.
You can trace the patterns onto a different paper,

or you can also just cut them straight from the
printer paper. They might be a little hard to pin
through, so you might want to use your longest
pins. But you could also use pattern weights or
trace the outlines onto the fabric with a washable
marker and cut them out from there.
3
sew desu ne?
cutting the fabric:
1 2 3 4
Place pattern on the fabric, Pin the pattern in place, use Using the paper as a For all fur fabrics, shake the
and make sure the stretch pattern weights, or trace the template, cut out the fabric. excess fuzz away.
line matches the stretch outline of the pattern with a Cut the required amount
of the fabric. The nap line washable marker. according to the pattern.
should go in the direction of
the fur.
cutting layout:
ST RETCH
body fabric hair fabric
¼ yd.; 9” long
¼ yd.; 9” long
B
shorts shoes
A E E I I I I
5” long
5” long
F H
D D
NAP
NAP
G G C C C C F H
5” wide 5” wide
26" wide 15” wide
¼ yd.; 9” long
ST RETCH
hat fabric dress fabric
J J
J J
¼ yd.; 9” long
¼ yd.; 9” long
M M L L
GRAIN
NAP
12” wide
choose wings
17” wide 16” wide (J) or tail (K)
or both!
before you begin:

• Briefly read the project instructions so you know what to expect.
• If desired, mark the cut fabric pieces with the markings and symbols from the pattern. Or wait
until the applicable step before transferring.
• Note that the seam allowance used is ¼” throughout the project.
sew desu ne?
stitch along
align bangs glue only bottom bottom edge trim excess
over face edge of bangs of bangs face fabric
(if using)
1. sew the bangs

a. Grab your face (A) and bangs (B) pieces. The bangs overlap right on top of the face across the upper
half as shown. Place it right side up with the upper edges aligning.
b. To secure the bangs, you can use pins or a bit of fabric glue. If you use glue, be sure to apply it only on
the wrong side of the curved edge as shown. This will avoid getting excess glue on any other part of
your project.
c. Stitch the bangs to the face along the bottom curved edge using either a straight stitch close to the
edge or a zigzag stitch that covers the edge.
d. optional: to make sewing the head darts easier (later in step 4), trim away the excess face fabric
from behind the hair. Cut about ¼" away from the stitching.
eyes, smile - black hold applique while

eye shines - white pulling paper away
eye highlight - accent
trace onto
paper side
2. prepare the face applique

a. Grab your fusible web and trace all of your applique pieces onto the smooth (paper) side. You should
have two eyes, two eye shines, two eye highlights, a smile, and a fang.
b. Fuse the bumpy (adhesive) side onto the wrong side of your applique fabric. The eyes and smile
should go on black, the eye highlights on an accent color, and the fang and eye shines on white.
c. Cut out the eyes and arrange them on the face (A) piece. Set your paper pattern on top of the fabric
piece (right sides up). Align the eye piece on top where the placement markings are. Then carefully
pull the paper pattern away while holding the applique piece in place.
sew desu ne?

stitch along
edge of pieces
fuse eyes first add smaller
pieces next
3. fuse the applique

a. Fuse the eye piece in place with your iron.
b. Next, move onto the smaller pieces. Fuse them the same way as you did the eyes, using the paper
pattern and photos as a guide.
c. If you used heavy duty fusible web, you can keep the pieces fused without sewing, or you can sew
them in place a number of ways. I’ve used a zigzag stitch here.
→→ Refer to the next step for some other applique options.
4
2
straight stitch; applique 3
great for felt whipstitch 1
3a. other applique options

a. Other good options for applique include a straight stitch, which involves sewing around the edge of
the applique pieces with a straight stitch using matching thread -- about 1/8” in from the edge.
b. You can also applique by hand; I prefer a whipstitch. Thread a hand-sewing needle with some
matching thread and knot it. Bring the thread up from the back of the project; about 1/8” in from the
edge of the applique shape. Bring it down perpendicular from the curve, just outside of the applique
shape. This completes one stitch.
c. For the next stitch, bring the needle back up about 1/8” away from the previous stitch and 1/8” in from
the edge just as in the first stitch. Once again, bring it down just outside the applique shape. Continue
this way until you’ve sewn around the shape.
sew desu ne?

fold fabric blend

along dart point seam
into the
fold
darts:
A wedge-shaped gap
found in a pattern. When
sewn in fabric, it creates a tuck
in the fabric and develops a 3D
shape. The diagonal sides of
the wedge are the legs; these
are matched up and sewn
to the point of the dart.
4. sew the head dart

a. Find the small open wedge shapes all around the outside of the face (A) piece. These are darts. To
sew the first one, fold the face along the point of the wedge to match up the short slanted lines.
b. Next, sew along this edge. Start at the opening of the dart and move down to the point. Try to blend
the seam into the fold of the fabric for a smooth transition and a rounder finished plush.
finished sew all

dart 6 darts the completed face
5. finish the head darts

a. When the dart is complete it should look something as shown. You'll see the face start to take shape.
b. Repeat step 4 with the other 5 darts around the outside of the face piece.
c. When complete there should be 6 finished darts total and the face will make a dome shape.
sew desu ne?

leave
open for
turning
6. sew the ears

a. Grab your ear pieces (C). Take two of them and align them with right sides facing and raw edges
matching up.
b. Sew the ears together around the curved edge. Leave the straight edge free for turning the ear right
side out.
c. Turn the ear right side out through the opening you left. Repeat this with the other two ear pieces for
two complete ears total.
basting:
A form of temporary
sewing meant to hold pieces
in place. A long stitch length is
often used for this reason. The
finished result is not meant
to be seen and sometimes
ears overlap
dart near eye is even removed later
(depending on your
baste ears project).
in place
7. baste the ears
a. If you haven't already, locate the ear placement lines found on the paper pattern for the face (A).
Transfer them over to the right side of the fabric. Take the finished ear and align the open end within
the placement lines. They should overlap the dart nearest to the eye.
b. Baste the ear to the face within the seam allowance to hold it for future steps.
sew desu ne?

sew
along
notched
edge
line up head
back pieces
8. sew the head back

a. Grab your head back pieces (D). Align the two pieces together with right sides facing and raw edges
matching up.
b. Sew the two pieces together along the notched edge. This notch is located on the paper pattern to
help you differentiate the two sides.
c. When complete, open up the head back pieces.
match circles
stuff
head
firmly
match notches leave open
for turning
9. sew the head
a. Retrieve your face (A) from before. Take your head back (D) and align it over the face with right
sides facing. The circle marking at the top of the head back should line up with the circle marking on
the face and the bangs (B).
The bottom of the head back should line up with the notch along the bottom of the face.
b. If you haven't already, locate the opening for turning markings found on the paper pattern for the
face. Transfer them over to the wrong side of the fabric. Sew the head back to the face all the way
around, except for the opening near the bottom.
c. Turn the head right side out and stuff it firmly with stuffing. Use enough that the head looks round
and there are no wrinkles near the seams and darts. Set the head aside while we work on the body.
sew desu ne?

leave
open for
turning trim seam
allowance
near inner
curve
10. sew the tail

a. Grab your cat tail (K) pieces and align them with right sides facing and raw edges matching up.
b. Sew the tail along the long curved edge. Leave the short straight edge free for turning the tail later.
c. Trim the excess seam allowance at the tight curve near the inside of the tail. This will increase
flexibility when the tail is turned later.
stuff
lightly
baste tail
11. baste the tail

to chest
a. Turn the tail (K) right side out.

b. Stuff the tail very lightly with stuffing, just enough so it puffs a bit. This will make step 15 easier.
c. Grab your chest piece (E). Take the open end of the tail and center it along the straight edge of the
chest. Baste the tail to the chest within the seam allowance to hold it for future steps.
sew desu ne?

line up chest
& shorts
sew along
straight edge cat tail is trapped inside
(if using)
12. sew the shorts
a. Grab your chest (E) and shorts (F) pieces. Take one of each and align the straight edge of the chest
with the longer straight edge of the shorts. Right sides should be facing and the raw edges should
match up.
→→ If you have a cat tail, it should be sandwiched between the shorts and chest at this point.
b. Sew the chest to the shorts along this straight edge.
c. Open up the pieces when complete. Repeat with the remaining shorts and chest piece for both sides
of the body.
line up shoes
and legs
sew along
straight edge
13. sew the shoes

a. Grab your legs (G) and shoes (H) pieces. Take one of each and align the straight edge of the shoes
with the longer straight edge of the legs. Right sides should be facing and the raw edges should
match up.
b. Sew them together along this straight edge.
c. Open up the pieces when complete.
Repeat with the remaining leg and shoe pieces for both halves of the body.
sew desu ne?

line up
upper
body to
lower
body
sew along
straight edge
14. sew the legs

a. Grab all of your body pieces so far from the last 2 steps. Take one of the chest/shorts pieces (E/F)
and align the bottom edge of the shorts to the top edge of the legs/shoes (G/H). Make sure right
sides are facing and the raw edges match up.
b. Sew the bottom half of the body to the top along this straight edge.
c. Open up the pieces when complete and repeat with the remaining body pieces so you have both sides
of the body.
leave
press seams open for
open gently trace turning
seam
line from
guide
match
up
shorts
& leg
15. sew the body

seams
a. To make sewing the body a little easier, it helps to press the seams open lightly with an iron. If you're
using a fur fabric like minky, press very gently from the wrong side using just the tip of the iron. This
will avoid crushing the fur on the outside of the finished doll.
b. Take your two body pieces and align them with right sides facing and raw edges matching up. Pin the
seams along the shorts & legs to be sure they match up.
The seam line between the legs is a little tricky, so included in the paper pattern is a seam guide.
Center this piece onto the legs and trace along the outside to get the correct stitching guide.
c. If you haven't already, locate the opening for turning marking on the paper pattern for the chest (E).
Transfer it over to the wrong side of the fabric. Sew the body pieces together following the traced line
along the legs, but leave an opening on the side you just marked.
sew desu ne?

stuff
clip seam firmly
allowance
between
legs
16. stuff body

a. Clip the seam allowance between the legs you've just sewn. Make a few clips into the inner curve to be
certain the pieces will turn cleanly.
b. Turn the body right side out through the opening in the side.
c. Stuff the body firmly with stuffing, starting with small balls in the feet and working up to the neck.
bring needle
out near one ladder stitch
edge of opening closed
2 1
4
3 seam allowance
(folded inside)
17. sew the body closed

a. Make sure the seam allowances in the opening are tucked inside and prepare to ladder stitch it closed.
Thread a hand-sewing needle and knot it at the end. Insert the needle from the inside of the opening
and out of the plush near one edge of the opening. This will leave the knot inside the doll.
b. Continue from here doing a ladder stitch. Take a 1/8” stitch into the fold of one side of the opening,
then go across and take another. Keep going down the opening until you reach the end.
sew desu ne?

a. When you’re finished, stitch a

knot into the end of the seam.
bring Then insert the needle near
needle out pull at thread
1-2" away while clipping the finished knot and out of
the doll about 1-2” away.
b. Pull the thread through and
hold it taut while snipping
the thread. The excess thread
should sink back inside the
doll -- all hidden!
18. trim the threads
a. Insert the neck end of the

body into the head through
align head the opening in the head.
over neck You may want to push the
stuffing in the head out of the
way to make room.
ladder Make sure the head is
stitch centered on the neck and
around
neck looking forward.
b. From here, ladder stitch the
head opening to the neck.
Start with big basting stitches
19. attach the head going around the neck. Check
the head to be sure you're
happy with the placement.
Then go around the neck
again with tinier, neater
stitches to secure it in place.
sew desu ne?

leave
open for
turning
trim seam
allowance
near thumb
20. sew the arms

a. Grab your arm pieces (I). Take two of them and align them with right sides facing and raw edges
matching up.
b. If you haven't already, locate the opening for turning markings found on the paper pattern for the
arm. Transfer them over to the wrong side of the fabric.
Sew the arms together all around the shape, being sure to pivot at the thumb. Leave an opening near
the back shoulder area as you marked before.
c. Trim the seam allowance around the thumb so it turns easier.
stuff
semi-firmly
ladder
stitch
closed
21. stuff the arms

a. Turn the arm right side out through the opening in the side.
b. Stuff the arm semi-firmly with stuffing. Be sure to get a small bit into the thumb.
c. Sew the opening in the arm closed with a ladder stitch, similar to back in step 17.
Repeat steps 20-21 once more with your remaining arm pieces so you have two complete arms total.
sew desu ne?

align stitch
arm over around
body upper edge
of arm
flip up arm
to stitch
underside
22. attach the arms

a. Take one of your finished arms and align it over the shoulder area of your doll so far. It should be
about ¼" below the bottom of the head, or enough so the tips of the hands are a little below the
bottom of the shorts. Also check that the thumbs are pointing forward.
b. Sew the top 1" of the arms to the body using a ladder stitch. Stitch above the arm seam along the top
edge of the shoulder. This will help the arm sink into the plush.
c. As you work downward, flip the arm up and stitch from the underside of the arm to complete. Repeat
with your other arm on the other side of the body.
trim seam allowance

at corners
23. sew the wings

a. Grab your wing pieces (J). Take two of them and align them with right sides facing and raw edges
matching up.
b. Sew the wings together around the whole shape, being sure to pivot at the corners.
c. Trim the excess seam allowance at the tight corners and curves. This will reduce bulk and increase
flexibility when the wings are turned later.
sew desu ne?

stitch around
opening of wing
cut through one layer

of fabric only
stuff
lightly
24. attach the wings

a. To turn the wings, make small clips near the base of the wing through one layer of the fabric only.
The paper pattern also has a cutting guide for help. Be sure to flip your second wing so you have a
mirrored pair when you clip it.
b. Turn the wings right side out through the opening you've just cut. Stuff the wings lightly with stuffing,
just enough so they take shape.
c. Take the wings and align them over the back of your doll, right next to the shoulders. The cut end
should be facing down. Stitch the wings to the back around the cut you've made to complete.
sewing the dress
stop stitching at press seam

circle marking allowance open
25. sew the sides

a. Grab your dress pieces (L). Align them with right sides facing and raw edges matching up.
b. If you haven't already, note the circle marking found on the paper pattern for the dress. Stitch one
side of the dress along this edge, from the bottom up. Stop at the circle marking (this is for the arms
later).
c. Take this sewn seam and press the seams open with your iron. For the area that hasn't been sewn,
fold over the edges by ¼" and press those too so they're flat and crisp.
sew desu ne?

stitch around match up stitch

folded edges other side of armhole on
dress other side
26. hem the arm holes

a. Sew along the folded edge of the dress. Go down one side, stitch across, then go up the other side in
a U shape. This should secure the part of this edge that hasn't been sewn into a seam and creates a
finished armhole for your doll.
b. Bring the other straight edges of the dress together and repeat step 25, sewing the side seam.
c. Stitch along the open edge of the other side of the dress as shown. Both sides should have finished
armholes when complete.
stitch along
fold under by folded edge
about 1/8" fold agian by
about 3/8"
27. sew the top edge

a. Flip your dress wrong side out. Take the top straight edge and fold it under by about 1/8" with wrong
sides together. Press the fold so it's crisp.
b. Fold the top edge again by 3/8" this time and press it again.
c. Stitch along this folded edge to complete the top edge of the dress. Repeat this on the other side of
the dress as well.
sew desu ne?

press fold
in place
fold under
by ½" stitch fold
in place
28. sew the bottom edge

a. Fold under the bottom edge of the dress by ½".
b. Pin the fabric and press it in place. Because the edge is slightly curved, you may end up with some
minor folds in the hem, but nothing major.
→→ tip: you can also make 3/8" cuts into the hem allowance of the dress edge, about 1-2" apart.
Then the bottom edge will have little overlaps instead of little folds.
c. Stitch along the edge of the fabric to secure the fold in place.
cut ribbon into thread ribbon

two 25" pieces through slots of dress
place
dress on
doll
29. insert the ribbon

a. Grab your ribbon and cut it in half into two equal 25" long pieces.
b. Take your first piece of ribbon and insert it into the top slot of the dress. Use a safety pin or a bodkin if
you have one to make this easier. Swing the ribbon around and insert it through the other top slot of
the dress so it comes back around where you started.
c. Keep the ribbon loose and place the dress on your doll. Allow the arms to sneak under the ribbon so
the ribbon secures around the neck of the doll.
sew desu ne?

a. Take the ends of the ribbon

tie and tie them along the side of
ribbon on
side of the neck as shown.
neck
b. Take your remaining piece of
ribbon and tie it around the
waist. Secure it snugly with a
bow in the back.
tie other ribbon

around waist
30. tie the ribbon
sewing the hat
trim seam allowance

at corners
leave open
for head
31. sew the hat

a. Grab your hat pieces (L). Align them with right sides facing and raw edges matching up.
b. Sew the pieces together along the pointed edge. Leave the straight edge along the bottom free for
placing over the head.
c. Trim the seam allowances at the outer corners to reduce bulk when the hat is turned later.
sew desu ne?

fold under press fold in

by ½" place stitch fold in
place
32. sew the hat edge

a. Turn under the bottom edge of the hat by ½". Press the fold in place.
b. Stitch along the edge of the fabric to secure the fold and finish the bottom edge. For very stretchy
fabric, like interlock knit, you may want to use a zigzag stitch which is more forgiving.
c. Turn the hat right side out through the opening. Define the corners of the pointy ears with a chopstick
or similar turning tool.
dress onto
Congrats!
your doll!
this completes
your plush! Now
go on a Halloween
adventure!
33. dress the hat

a. Take your finished hat and
dress it over your doll's head!
sew desu ne?

pg. 1/4
SHORTS (F) STRETCH

Cut 2 from accent fabric
¼” seam allowance
NAP
m ent
ear place
ne
eli
g uid
B)
LEGS (G)
s(
Cut 2 from body fabric STRETCH

ng
ba
NAP
center bottom
www.cholyknight.com
Cut 1 from body fabric
opening for turning

P A T T E R N
Doll Plush
bat & cat girl
FACE (A)
placement
applique
STRETCH
p
SHOES (H) STRETCH

center to

NAP
NAP
EAR (C)
NAP
ent m
ear place
pg. 2/4
cu
to
tti
er
ng
nt
ce
gu
Cu A
CH
t T
ide
ET
¼ 4 W
” s fro I
R
ea m N
ST
m ac G
N al cen S
AP lo t (
an fab J)
w
NAP ce ric
bat & cat girl
Doll Plush
STRETCH
P A T T E R N
www.cholyknight.com
HEAD BACK (D)
www.cholyknight.com
Cut 2 from hair fabric
p
center to
P A T T E R N
Cut 1 from hair fabric
Doll Plush
bat & cat girl
BANGS (B)
NAP
STRETCH
bat & cat girl
Doll Plush
P A T T E R N
in g
www.cholyknight.com
NAP
opening for turn

CHEST (E)
STRETCH
tail placement
pg. 3/4
EYE
applique
trace & cut
1 each of black
opening for turning
ARMS (I)
FANG
EYE SHINE applique
applique trace & cut
trace & cut 1 of white
2 of white
NAP
SMILE
applique EYE HIGHLIGHT
trace & cut applique
1 of black trace & cut
2 of accent color
LEG STITCHING GUIDE

Use in step 15
STRETCH
NAP
CAT TAIL (K)

½” hem allowance
½” hem allowance
Cut 2 from stretchy medium-weight fabric
HAT (M)
www.cholyknight.com
P A T T E R N
Doll Plush
bat & cat girl
NAP
STRETCH
½” hem allowance
stop here for stop here for
arm openings arm openings
bat & cat girl
GRAIN
Doll Plush
P A T T E R N
www.cholyknight.com
DRESS (L)
Cut 2 from light or medium-weight fabric
½” hem allowance
ce
wan
m allo
½” he
pg. 4/4

Bat Cat Girl Doll Plush Sewing Pattern PDF

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

Bat Cat Girl Doll Plush Sewing Pattern PDF

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Title

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Bat Cat Girl Doll Plush Sewing Pattern PDF

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

bat & cat girl

bat & cat girl doll plush

The hardest part of this plush is likely

materials & tools:

sew desu ne?

main body suggested fabrics:

sew desu ne?

printing the pattern:

At the print dialog box, check the box that says

You can trace the patterns onto a different paper,

cutting the fabric:

before you begin:

1. sew the bangs

eyes, smile - black hold applique while

2. prepare the face applique

sew desu ne?

3. fuse the applique

3a. other applique options

sew desu ne?

fold fabric blend

4. sew the head dart

finished sew all

5. finish the head darts

sew desu ne?

6. sew the ears

sew desu ne?

8. sew the head back

sew desu ne?

10. sew the tail

11. baste the tail

a. Turn the tail (K) right side out.

sew desu ne?

13. sew the shoes

sew desu ne?

14. sew the legs

15. sew the body

sew desu ne?

16. stuff body

17. sew the body closed

sew desu ne?

a. When you’re finished, stitch a

18. trim the threads

a. Insert the neck end of the

sew desu ne?

20. sew the arms

21. stuff the arms

sew desu ne?

22. attach the arms

trim seam allowance

23. sew the wings

sew desu ne?

cut through one layer

24. attach the wings

sewing the dress

stop stitching at press seam

25. sew the sides

sew desu ne?

stitch around match up stitch

26. hem the arm holes