"Sustainable cosmetics: the impact of packaging materials, environmental

concern and subjective norm on green consumer behaviour."

Bellomo, Matilde

ABSTRACT

This Master’s thesis concentrates on building a better understanding of the factors affecting customer
attitude and behaviour when purchasing sustainable cosmetic products with an eco-friendly packaging.
In particular, a focus in given on the impact of environmental concern, subjective norm and perceived
consumer effectiveness (PCE) on green consumer behaviour through pro-environmental behavioural
intention. This research has been conducted thanks to a quantitative approach by conducting an online
survey distributed to Italian consumers mainly located in the Puglia region. Two hundred twenty-three
questionnaires were collected and analysed. The results of the study demonstrate a significant influence
of attitude towards behaviour and perceived consumer effectiveness (PCE) on ECCB in a TPB model
framework. This Master’s thesis has also revealed some interesting findings such as the insignificant
influence of subjective norms in the referring Italian context related to pro-environmental behavioural
intention and ECCB. The study recommends to companies in the cosmetic industry with the aim to
communicate sustainability through their products to enhance customers' awareness about sustainability
applied to cosmetics and to increase a strong perception of products’ effectiveness by using eco-
friendly packaging materials. This strategy has proven to have positive effects on implementing a positive
behavioural attitude in green purchases, leading to customer satisfaction and consumers’ trust towards
brands fighting for environmental protection.

CITE THIS VERSION

Bellomo, Matilde. Sustainable cosmetics: the impact of packaging materials, environmental concern and
subjective norm on green consumer behaviour.. Louvain School of Management, Université catholique de
Louvain, 2021. Prom. : Gordy Pleyers. http://hdl.handle.net/2078.1/thesis:31245

Le répertoire DIAL.mem est destiné à l'archivage DIAL.mem is the institutional repository for the
et à la diffusion des mémoires rédigés par les Master theses of the UCLouvain. Usage of this
étudiants de l'UCLouvain. Toute utilisation de ce document for profit or commercial purposes
document à des fins lucratives ou commerciales is stricly prohibited. User agrees to respect
est strictement interdite. L'utilisateur s'engage à copyright, in particular text integrity and credit
respecter les droits d'auteur liés à ce document, to the author. Full content of copyright policy is
notamment le droit à l'intégrité de l'oeuvre et le available at Copyright policy
droit à la paternité. La politique complète de droit
d'auteur est disponible sur la page Copyright
policy

Available at: http://hdl.handle.net/2078.1/thesis:31245 [Downloaded 2023/03/11 at 14:39:54 ]



Louvain School of Management

Sustainable cosmetics:
the impact of packaging materials,
environmental concern
and subjective norm on
green consumer behaviour

Author: Matilde Bellomo
Supervisor: Professor Gordy Pleyers
Academic year 2020-2021
Dissertation for the Master of Science in Management (120),
Professional focus
Daytime schedule: Thursday, 26th August - Tuesday, 31st August




















































I would like to express my deep and sincere gratitude to my Master’s thesis

supervisor, Professor Gordy Pleyers, for providing invaluable guidance thoughout
this research. His dynamism, vision, sincerity and motivation have deeply inspired
me.

Further on, I would like to thank UCL and Louvain School of Management
professors and assistants I met during my courses. Thanks to them, I acquired
valuable knowledge that, hopefully, will lead me to reach great goals during my
career.

Finally, I would like to thank my family and friends for always supporting
me in every choice. In particular, I would like to express my gratefullness to my
parents, to my brother Vito and to my grandmothers Lucrezia and Matilde, for
believing in me from the day they met me for the first time, for giving me the
strenght and passion to pursue my goals.

Last but not least, I would like all the people who reserved some time to
answer to the survey. They gave a really precious contribute to this Master’s thesis
research study.

The consumer’s perception is our reality.

(Kate Zabriskie)
 II

 III

Table of contents

Introduction..............................................................................................................................................1

Part 1: Theoretical framework ........................................................................................................3

1. Sustainable development & strategies in the cosmetic industry.......................................................3

2. Consumers’ reactions to sustainable products..........................................................................................9

2.1 Individual factors.........................................................................................................................................10
2.1.1Psychological factors......................................................................................................................10
2.1.2 Habits and lifestyle.........................................................................................................................14
2.1.3 Socio-demographic factors.........................................................................................................14
2.2 Social influence and subjective norms...............................................................................................19
2.3 Product attributes and marketing........................................................................................................20

3. Consumers’ perception towards green packaging................................................................................22

3.1 Impact of packaging....................................................................................................................................22
3.2 Sustainable packaging: a definition.....................................................................................................23
3.3 Consumer perception of an eco-friendly packaging.....................................................................25
3.3.1 Packaging material.........................................................................................................................26
3.3.2 Market appeal ................................................................................................................................31
3.3.3 Manufacturing technology..........................................................................................................35

4. Illustration about the use of sustainable packaging materials in the cosmetic industry.....36
4.1 L’Oréal’s eco-friendly packaging evolution......................................................................................36
4.2 Paper packaging...........................................................................................................................................37
4.2.1 La Roche-Posay X Albea...............................................................................................................37
4.2.2 Seed Phytonutrients......................................................................................................................38
4.3 Glass made packaging................................................................................................................................38
4.3.1 Giorgio Armani Beauty.................................................................................................................38
4.4 Sustainable PET plastics...........................................................................................................................39
4.4.1 Biolage R.A.W....................................................................................................................................39
 IV

4.5 The future of plastic: carbon capture in cosmetics.......................................................................40

Part 2: Empirical analysis..................................................................................................................42

1. Conceptual frame.................................................................................................................................................42

2. Hypoteses................................................................................................................................................................43
2.1 Environmental attitude..............................................................................................................................45
2.2 Subjective norms...........................................................................................................................................46
2.3 Perceived consumer effectiveness (PCE)...........................................................................................48
2.4 Behavioral Intention....................................................................................................................................48
2.5 Relationship between the indipendent variables and ECCB when purchasing
personal care products with an eco-friendly packaging material..................................................49

3. Methodology..........................................................................................................................................................52
3.1 Sample description.......................................................................................................................................52
3.2 Data collection................................................................................................................................................52
3.3 Pre-test..............................................................................................................................................................53
3.4 Questionnaire building & measurement scales...............................................................................53

4. Data analysis and results..................................................................................................................................56

4.1 Reliability.........................................................................................................................................................56
4.2 PLS-SEM Modeling........................................................................................................................................57
4.3 Model validation............................................................................................................................................60
4.4 Mediation analysis........................................................................................................................................60

5. Discussion...............................................................................................................................................................64
5.1 Context of the study.....................................................................................................................................64
5.2 Summary of findings....................................................................................................................................66
5.3 Theoretical implications............................................................................................................................70
5.4 Practical implications..................................................................................................................................70

Conclusions, constraints of the study and avenues for future research............................73

Bibliography...........................................................................................................................................76

Appendices.............................................................................................................................................99
 V

Appendix A: Survey.............................................................................................................................................99
Appendix B: Demographical characteristics of the sample.............................................................101
Appendix C: Mediation analysis..................................................................................................................103
 1

Introduction
This research has been conducted in the framework of the Master’s degree in Management at
the Université Catholique de Louvain.

The research is going to be based on the influence of products with an eco-friendly packaging
on consumers’ behavior. The choice of the theme is related to my particular interest for the
big distribution industry and its evolution on the market: how the adaptment to the evolving
trends related to ecological interests can be determinant?

A research conducted by the Professor Gordy Pleyers captured my attention: packaging,

shape, colour and design of a product can determine important changes in the attitude of a
consumer, and not only. Furthermore, focusing on sustainability in the beauty sector could
give a great input to the industry and a big contribute to the reduction of impact on Earth over
time. In fact, priorities are changing for companies in terms of packaging design and
materials’ influence on green purchase behavior. In particular, the beauty sector is a highly
innovative sector that is going through an interesting improvement of its products to build a
conscious environmentally-friendly strategy. Since the beauty industry’s green activities and
products have a really strong effect on the planet in terms of amount sold and consumed and
waste management, we decided to focus on this sector seen its great impact on Earth through
consumers.

Therefore, the objective of this Master’s thesis is to measure the influence of beauty products’
design on consumers’ purchase behavior, in particular related to cosmetic products with a
sustainable packaging material. As a start, we will go through the sustainable developments
and strategies in the cosmetic industry and how it changed over time by reacting to
environmental issues.

After, we will go through all the different factors influencing green consumer behavior and
the specific litterature related to the matter. Based on them, some studies analysed the most
important drivers influencing sustainable purchase decisions.

After this prior analysis, the research will be focused on analysing consumers’ perception of a
sustainable packaging, in terms of material, market appeal and manufacturing technology. By
 2

discussing the previous scientific research, we will provide an overview about the impact of
an eco-friendly packaging on green purchase decisions.

The analysis will be conducted on products appartaining to the cosmetic industry with an eco-
friendly packaging. It will permit us to understand the perception that a specific packaging is
able to trasmit in order to be perceived as green, by comparing different kind of used
materials. In the fourth chapter, we will take into specific consideration the L’Oréal case,
perfect example of application of the relevance of packaging material in an eco-friendly
packaging.

Our purpose it to analyse – through a quantitative study – green purchase behavior when
buying beauty products with an eco-friendly packaging material and to determine the different
variables having relevance in the process.

 3

Part 1: Theoretical framework

1. Sustainable development & strategies in the cosmetic industry

The widely accepted definition of “sustainability” rises from the 1987 report entitled “Our
common future”. In this report is enphasized the need for a sustainable way of life. Moreover,
it is defined the idea of sustainability coming from the concept of sustainable development
defined as the development that is able to meet the current needs of the population without
compromising the needs of the future generations (Bruntland, 1987).

Among the most relevant documents in the sustainable development movement, Agenda 21
(United Nations, 1992) put in evidence the main causes of environmental degradation:
unsustainable production and consumption standards.

Later, in 1994, Elkington defined the “triple bottom line” of sustainability, integrating the
economical and social dimensions to the sustainable development, aspects that are relevant to
develop an economy able to be sustained by the planet.

Henceforward, being the European cosmetic market a growing economic sector, it has been
valued at 79,84 billion euros in 2019 in Europe, adding on a growth of six percentage points
over the precedent seven-year period.

Consequently, it makes sense that this highly innovative sector goes through an improvement
of its activities and products to build a conscious environmental and social sustainability.

Of course, the concept of Green in cosmetic products is not new. Some segments of the
cosmetic industry had already started participating in the Green Game. In fact the cosmetic
industry experienced at least two waves of natural products: the first one being about
botanicals and fruit-based formulas in the early and mid 1970s, the second a similar but
stronger wave that began in the mid 1980s and still lasts today.

Caswell-Massey from America has been among the few companies carrying the message for
decades, by selling cucumber based soaps and pineapple hair rinses in its shop in Lexington
Avenue to a selected range of clients (Csorba and Boglea, 2011).

Therefore, picking the case of The Body Shop from Europe, this company has been seen as
one of the pioneers of the second wave, using the Caswell-Massey concept to develop and sell
 4

a complete range of bath products and fragrances in a very simple and sustainable packaging.
(Csorba and Boglea, 2011).

In particular, the Italian cosmetics market is one of the largest in Europe both in terms of
turnover and consumption, right after Germany and France. When considering the size of the
population, the consumption per capita is even higher. Moreover, the worldwide turnover of
the Italian cosmetics and personal care industry reached an estimated value of 11.9 billion
euros in 2019.

Figure 1: Consumption value in billion euros of cosmetics and personal care in Europe from 2012 to 2019
(Ridder, 2019).

In 2019, facial care and body care were the two leading segments of the cosmetics market in
Italy. These two product categories represented 17.3 percent and 15.8 percent of the cosmetic
products consumed in the country, respectively. By contrast, products for men accounted for a
mere 1.6 percent of the cosmetics consumption. (Ridder, 2019).

Moreover, in 2018 the value of the global cosmetics market in 2018 was 507.8 billion U.S.
dollars. The market is projected to value at about 758.4 billion U.S. dollars by 2025. (Ridder,
2020).
 5

Figure 2: Distribution of cosmetics consumption value in Italy from 2016 to 2019, by product category. (Ridder,
2020)

For this reasons, it is important for cosmetic companies to keep up consumers expectations,
since a crescent number of people is changing mindset, looking for sustainability into their
purchases.

It should be considered that each phase of a product life cycle will affect its sustainability.
Concerning cosmetics, it’s critical to address the sustainability of those products to the design
process, and therefore, to the raw materials selection (Cosmetics Europe, The Personal Care
Association, 2012b, 2018b). This highlights the fact that for each product a specific life cycle
assessment strategy should be designed (Glew and Lovett, 2014).

One of the most important drivers of sustainability in the cosmetics industry is the awareness
of consumers about environmental and social issues that is pushing the cosmetics industry to
become “greener”. (Fernando and Hennayake, 2017).

Another relevant driver in the process that is leading the cosmetics industry to a more
sustainable path is the availability of more sustainable raw materials, like the ones presented
by Evonik during in-cosmetics 2018 (Krauter, 2018).

Last but not least, regulations and laws are playing a relevant role as drivers of sustainability.
 6

In the European Union some countries banned the use of microplastics in rinse-off cosmetics
after the recommendation of Cosmetics Europe (Xanthos and Walker, 2017). In fact, the
presence of plastic microbeads in personal care products decreased in the amount 97,6 %
between 2012 and 2017, consequently eliminating 4250 tons of plastic (Cosmetics Europe –
The Personal Care Association, 2018a).

Figure 3: Cosmetic product life cycle with a sustainable approach – Life Cycle Thinking (LCT) (Bom et al.,
2019).

A significant part of the environmental impact of a cosmetic product is defined in its initial
phase, during the design process and the selection of raw materials (Cosmetics Europe – The
Personal Care Association, 2012b, 2018b).

As far as the manifacturing phase is concerned, Good Manifacturing Practices (GMP) (ISO
22716:2007) give some guidelines regarding production, control, storage and shipment of
cosmetic products. These guidelines cover the quality aspects of the product, even if as a
whole they do not cover specific aspects of environment preservation.

Two examples of companies well known for their sustainable manifacturing strategies are
Aveda and Amore Pacific, bringing an effort to reduce the environmental impact of their
practices (Amorepacific Group, 2017; Aveda, n. d.; Feng, 2016).

Considering packaging, its choice has a big relevance in the decision process. It has the role to
protect the cosmetic product and in many cases to guarantee the correct application of the
product. Cosmetic packaging has a very negative effect on the environment, contributing to
 7

land and marine pollution and influencing biodiversity.

The most important concerns related to packaging are the excess layers, meaning the primary
and secondary layers, and the materials used, like glass, paper and paperboard, aluminium,
wood, plastic/polymeric materials and hybrid constructs.

Plastic is the most used material for packaging due to its flexibility and light weight, but it is
not biodegradable and it has a negative influence on pollution.

Another determining driver of sustainability in the cosmetics industry is the transportation of

ingredients, materials, packaging and final products. During the distribution phase, the most
important factor influencing sustainability is the amount of fuel used, given the fact that the
combustion of fossil fuels releases CO2 in the athmosphere, a greenhouse gas that causes
global warming. To prevent the excessive emissions of fuel during transportation, it can be
determinant to consider the adequate choice of the type of fuel to be used. However, also
having a route planning, cutting down unnecessary wheen load, managing the aerodynamics
of the load, correctly mantaining the vehicle fleet and the tire pressure can be applied to
improve fuel economy (Cosmetics Europe, The Personal Care Association, 2012b).

The consumer use phase of a cosmetic product can be also a determinant factor influencing
sustainability in the beauty industry, verying with the kind of product (Cosmetics Europe, The
Personal Care Association, 2012b).

For cleansing products such as shampoos, soaps and hand washes, the impact on the
environment is mainly related to the use of water used to rinse off the product and the energy
consumed for heating the water, as well as the level of discharge of the product down the
drain and their impact on the aquatic environment. For rinse off products, it is also relevant
the presence of microparticles that would enter the aquatic habitats and cause contamination
(Coombs Obrien et al., 2017, Rochman et al., 2015). For a leave-on product it should be
provided to consumers the dosing of the correct amount suggested for the purpose and its
frequency (Cosmetics Europe, The Personal Care Association, 2012b). Even if it could seem
out of producers’ responsibilities, the way consumers interact with a product mainly depends
on product design and marketing (Mahler et al., 2012).

Last but not least, in the post consumer use phase formulas biodegradability can be improved
by minimizing the ingredients that are damaging the environment. Moreover, the packaging
 8

waste could be avoided with techniques like reutilization, recycling, incinerating with energy
recovery or composting (Cosmetics Europe, The Personal Care Association, 2012b). The
brand should have a clear idea on how consumers use the product to make them more
informed about the correct use through commercials and the product’s packaging itself.
Besides this, some companies adopt specific campaigns to improve the consumers’ perception
of the brand and the brand’s image related to sustainability. One of them is M.A.C. using a
program called “Back to M.A.C.”, according to which every 6 empty primary packagings
returned, customers receive a free lipstick of their own choice (Feng, 2016; M.A.C. n.d.).

Other brands like Shu Uemura, INGLOT, Tarte and DHC are adopting refilling policies
(Feng, 2016; Inglot). These companies provide different design of eye shadow cases for
customers who choose to refill or add any new eye shadow in a chosen case. Moreover, the
Ydentik perfumer brand adopted as well a refilling strategy. They have an experience store in
a bar format where they create “perfumes cocktails”. Consumers at their first purchase get a
free perfume packaging and whenever they come back to the store they just ask to refill the
package (Ydentik, n.d.). This kind of system has few interesting benefits like increasing
customer loyalty, increased perception of added value and reduced costs of the packaging. It
should be anyway be kept in mind that refillable packagings need to be convenient both for
the brand and the consumer (Lofthouse et al., 2009). Also, another strategy could be to give
the product or packaging a second life for multi-purpose use. The Naruko cosmetic company,
adopted this concept of reusing the cosmetic packaging and won the International Package
Design Awards (IPDA) in 2014 (Feng, 2016).
 9

2. Consumers’ reaction related to sustainable products

The reasons leading a consumer to a certain buying decision are multiple.

One might arguably consider that when talking about FMCG, as observed in Smurfit Kappa
desk research (2014), the average shopping trip takes about 20 minutes, 17 of which to walk
around and the 3 minutes left to search and select. In particular, since people make about 15
purchase per visit, the decision at the point of purchase is on average taken in 12 seconds.
(Smurfit Kappa desk research, 2014). Consequently, the kind of factors leading to the buying
decision play an important role.

Green purchasing behaviour is a result of multiple and complex factors related to various
aspects of consumers' purchasing decisions.

Zhang and Dong (2020) divided those factors influencing green purchase behavior into three
macro-areas: individual factors, product attributes and marketing and social influence. Based
on those dimensions, in this chapter we are going to analyse the findings about how
consumers’ reactions to green products are influenced by various types of factors through the
lens of the Theory of Planned Behavior.

Figure 4: Classification of determinants of green purchase (Zhang & Dong, 2020).

In fact, TPB’s effectiveness for behavior interpretation has been confirmed by numerous
empirical studies, and it has become the main theory used to study green purchase behavior
(Yadav et al.,2016; Mathieson, 1991; Moser, 2015). Moreover, Rezai et al. (2012) studied
Malaysian consumers’ purchase behavior of green food using TPB, and the results showed
 10

that attitude, subjective norms, and perceived behavioral control are the main variables
contributing to purchase behavior.

Therefore, with the aim of developing a conceptual framework, we mainly referred to the
Theory of Planned Behavior at individual level finding its application concerning products
attributes and marketing in Rokka and Uusitalo’s (2008) study about preference for green
packaging in consumer product choices. All the research was conducted with the input of
socio-demographic factors.

In fact, a considerable amount of research has been conducted to identify the willingness of
consumers to buy eco-friendly products. A research conducted by Makeower (2009) on
demographics and environmental behavior showed that the willingness of consumers to buy
environmentally friendly products is highly correlated with demographics.

2.1 Individual factors

Karsaklian (2008), observed that the consumer has his/her own personality and, for this
reason, every person identifies and understands the world in different ways (perception), by
reacting authomatically to the context through his/her senses.

Briefly, according to Haney and Christensen (1999), marketing needs to refer to Behavioural
sciences in order to understand consumers and their behaviour.

Kotler (2000), by the way, highlights that this is not sufficient for a brand to survive in a
competitive market. The challenge is to understand clients and their purchase behaviour, that
is to say knowing how the purchase decision process works, to develop strategies that
influence the decisional process through the creation of differentials (Almeida, 2000).

Among the individual factors influencing green purchase behavior, we can find the most
relevant ones being psychological factors, habits and lifestyle, and socio-demographics.
(Zhang and Dong, 2020).

2.1.1 Psychological factors

Kotler and Armstrong (1993) highlighted the key drivers influencing the decisional process of
consumers: motivations, personality and perceptions.

When making a purchase, buyers need a motivation that could be linked both to fisiological
 11

needs like going hungry, feeling cold, being thirsty or tired and also could be linked to
psychological needs, like recognition, self-esteem etc. For example, when talking about
cosmetic products, consumers are pushed in the purchase behavior by the need of hygiene, of
self-esteem (f.i. feeling younger thanks to a creme), and last but not least, self gratification, all
factors strictly correlated as well with consumers’ personality. Perception, the third factor
influencing behavioral intention, is a process where a consumer collects information about a
product and interprets them to have a meaningful image about that specific product. After
having seen an advertisement, a promotion, social media advertisements relating to a product,
the client develops his/her own impression about it. So the perception influences a lot the
buying decision. The buyer chooses to buy green packagings when he/she has a significant
perception of the impact they have on the planet (Rokka and Uusitalo, 2008). This perception
will be measured within this Master’s thesis, in relationship with the purchase of beauty
products with an eco-friendly packaging material.

If this does not happen, that is to say when consumers do not perceive the connection between
their puchase and the environmental positive consequence, they stay indifferent to the issue
and could be not able to distinguish, between their alternatives, green packagings as well, and
not finalise the purchase (Rokka and Uusitalo, 2008).

Attitude towards environment

Basically, psychological factors have a profound guiding effect on green consumer behavior.
In particular, attitude has been the most studied within consumers behavior theories in
relation with green purchase behavior (Knoll, Sharma et al., 2019; Laureti et al., 2017).

Many authors found that the decision to consume green products is strongly driven by
consumers' environmental awareness. Iosifidi (2016) found out that individuals who are
environmentally concerned, for example those ones who associate environmental damage
with the production of goods, tend to consume less products characterized by an high
environmental impact.

Attitude itself is influenced by the net perceived utility perceived from the eco-friendly
product. Nguyen et al. affirm that: “Environmental attitude relates to the concern exhibited
towards the probable causal effects of environmental deterioration being measured upon
individuals’ behavioral commitment” (2020). This affirmation finds a confirmation in
previous studies, that demonstrated a positive correlation between environmental attitude and
 12

environmental behavior (Straughan and Roberts, 1999; Kolmuss and Agyeman, 2002). In
fact, people with an higher environmental attitude or higher NEP (New environmental
paradigm) showed an higher utility towards green product consumption (Hirschman, 1980;
Bei and Simpson 1995; Straughan and Roberts, 1999; Laroche et al. 2001; Lin and Huang,
2012).

The degree of environmental concern, which denotes an individual's general orientation

toward safeguarding the environment, may have a direct impact on green consumer behaviour
as observed in previous studies (Paço et al., 2013, Chan, 1996).

Kinnear et al.’s (1974) studies on ecological marketing identified two dimensions of

consumers’ ecological consciousness: attitudes that express concern for ecology; and
purchasing behavior that is consistent with conservation of the environment. This conception
is inconsistent with a range of models of consumer behavior (e.g. Theory of Planned
behavior) which suggest that consumer attitudes lead to behaviors (Ajzen, 1985). Some prior
studies also confirm the attitude-behavior relationship in the context of environmentally
conscious consumer behavior (ECCB) (e.g. Flamm, 2009; Oreg and Katz-Gerro, 2006;
Polonsky et al., 2012), although other researchers suggested that sometimes there is also an
attitude-behavior gap (e.g. Boulstridge and Carrigan, 2000; Leire and Thidell, 2005).

ECCB will be further analysed in this Master’s thesis, as an output deriving from attitude
towards environment, subjective norms and perceived behavioral control (TPB), with the
mediation of behavioral intention and the input of socio-demographic data. ECCB will be
applied in the context of purchase behavior towards beauty products with an eco-friendly
packaging material.

A relevant condition for eco-innovations to have success in the market is consumers’

awareness of eco-friendly purchase behavior as a means of environmental protection, human
health and a sustainable allocation of resources. (Chao et al., 2012; Crabbé et al., 2013; Gleim
et al., 2013; Grimmer and Bingham, 2013; Kanchanapibul et al., 2014).

In fact, global consumers are more and more concerned about the negative environmental
impacts of packaging waste. Thanks to previous studies, it has been demonstrated the growing
consumer concern about packaging and its effects on the environment (e.g. Fernqvist et al.,
2015; Lewis and Stanley, 2012; Lindh et al., 2016a; Magnier and Criè, 2015; Mishra et al.,
2017; Prakash and Pathak, 2017; Rokka and Uusitalo, 2008; Taylor and Villas-Boas, 2016).
 13

Numerous studies explored consumers’ choice in terms of eco-friendly packaging (e.g.

Barber, 2010; Koenig-Lewis et al., 2014; Laforet, 2011; Rokka and Uusitalo, 2008; Steenis et
al., 2017,2018). In particular, Koenig-Lewis et al. (2014), went into consumers’ perception of
eco-friendly packaging and the result showed how purchase intention is significantly affected
by consumers’ concerns for the environment. Also, a Deloitte study in the USA found that the
more aware consumers are about environmental issues, the more they demand for eco-
friendly products.

While, on one hand, environmental concern positively influences purchase intention for eco-
friendly packaging (e.g. Barber, 2010; Davies and Gutshe, 2016; Koenig-Lewis et al., 2014;
Laforet, 2011; Rokka and Uusitalo, 2008; Van Birgelen et al. 2009), on the other hand price
may negatively affect consumer willingness to buy products with an eco-friendly packaging
(Martinho et al., 2015; Pícha and Navratil, 2019).

However, we will further discuss about consumers’ perception towards eco-friendly

packaging in the following chapter of this Master’s thesis.

Perceived Behavioural Control (PBC)

The concept of Perceived Behavioural Control (PBC) refers to people's perception of their
own ability to perform a given behaviour and reflects beliefs concerning factors or
circumstances that may facilitate or complicate that behaviour (Ajzen, 2006).

PBC is influenced by the presence of adequate resources and ability to control barriers to
behaviors. The more resources and fewer obstacles individuals perceive, the greater their
perceived behavioral control and the stronger their intention to perform behaviors (Ajzen et
al., 1986).

However, perceived consumer effectiveness (PCE) measures the subject's judgment of the
influence of individual consumers on environmental problems (Antil, 1984). Findings are
conclusive that high PCE results in greater levels of green consumerism (Roberts, 1996;
Straughan and Roberts, 1999). Various studies have identified PCE as the most predictive
factor of green consumer behavior (Berger and Corbin, 1992; Kim and Choi, 2005; Roberts,
1996; Straughan and Roberts, 1999; Wiener and Doescher, 1991). Individuals with a strong
belief that their green consumer behavior will result in positive outcomes are more likely to
engage in such behavior.
 14

For this reason, as previously described in the socio-demographic section, usually the best-
educated individuals appear to be also more worried about environmental issues, since they
have an higher level of PBC. (Aertsens et al., 2009, Gracia and de Magistris, 2007, Grunert
and Kristensen, 1990, Cunningham, 2002)

Moreover, one of the “perceived personal-abilities” that lead to the consumption of green
products may be the tendency of consumers to read product labels in order to obtain
information concerning the product characteristics (Kikuchi-Uehara et al., 2016, Koos, 2011).

For the above mentioned reasons it is important to give the right information to the potential
buyer so that he/she is perfectly able to make an evaluation about a green product and decide
if to give or not his/her trust to the brand (Magnier and Criè, 2015). Moreover, the actors let
themselves be easily influenced by the other consumers’ purchase behaviour, that is why it is
important to conduct targeted actions towards those actors who are more doubtful and less
informed, to encourage them to collaborate (Rokka and Uusitalo, 2008).

2.1.2 Habits and lifestyle

Lifestyle variables are also considered in our framework. It was observed that the purchase of
green product can be motivated by health concerns (Gracia and de Magistris, 2007, Chinnici
et al., 2002, Zanoli and Naspetti, 2002); in fact, smoking negatively affects green purchasing
behaviour (Brécard et al., 2009).

Moreover, a study conducted by Florenthal and Airling in 2011 on the influence of lifestyle
on green purchase behavior found out that attitudes toward green product attributes are also
influenced by a green lifestyle.

A green lifestyle involves eco-friendly friendly consumption and usage patterns (Fraj and
Martinez 2007; Chan 1999). Thus, it is reasonable to assume that individuals who value
general green behavior (consumption and usage) also tend to practice it.

2.1.3 Socio-demographic factors

Socio-demographics factors concerning the differences in gender, age, education and work
cause consumers different levels of demand for green products. At the same time demand for
green products is influenced by habits and lifestyle, being status consciousness, level of health
status, level of healthy lifestyle and so on (Zhang and Dong, 2020).
 15

Roberts (1996) as well, summarizing research about demographics and environmentally

friendly behaviors, found that green purchasing behavior is affected by age, education and
income. Results varied from study to study and he stated that further research on
demographics was needed.

Since socio-demographic factors are objective, they are used as classification variables to
compare green purchase behaviors.

Gender

Several studies have been conducted to examine gender influence in various green purchase
behavior and variables. However, the empirical results of the effect of gender on
environmental behavior are contradictory.

Some studies found out womens to be more likely to have an environmentally coscious
behavior as well as higher intentions to have higher green purchase intentions (Zelezny &
Schultz, 2000; Rezai et al. 2011).

In particular, Zelezny and Schultz (2000) conducted an international survey among fourteen
different countries regarding gender influence in proenvironmental attitudes. Their findings
show a significant difference between the genders, where women are more consistently
showing a major proenvironmental attitude compared to men.

Moreover, a study conducted by Liobikiene, G., & Bernatoniene, J. (2017) found that women
are more keen to care about other people’s lives and this positively influences their willing to
buy green products compared to men, since green products are perceived not only as
sustainable products, but also as healthy products. (Liobikiene, G., & Bernatoniene, J., 2017).

In addition to this, results deriving from a research conducted by Awan U. and Amer Raza M.
analysing consumer behavior towards green energy, showed that Swedish female consumers
are more environmentally conscous and have interest in paying more for green energy instead
of traditional energy when compared to men.

This kind of analysis has been supported by the willingness to pay variable, showing a pro-
environmental attitude. This kind of variable will be better analysed in the third chapter, in
relation with market appeal as one of the influencing factors of consumers’ perception of an
eco-friendly packaging. For this reason, it will be one of the relevant variables in this study.
 16

Despite many researchers have demonstrated that women are more likely to act in a more
environmental friendly way, final results are contradictory.

In fact, Diamantopoulos et al. (2003), after having reviewed a large quantity of studies from
1969 to 1998, found out that numerous authors stated that men have more environmental
knowledge than women.

For this reason, he ended up with the conclusion that, because of many inconsistencies,
further studies about the relationships between demographics and all aspects of environmental
consciousness (knowledge, attitude, behavior) were needed.

Tan and Lau (2010), however, found no significant difference between men and women
toward green products when conducting a study among undergraduate students in main
private universities in Malaysia.

Age

Results of studies comparing age groups were very mixed. Two of them found that younger
people were more likely to show eco-friendly behavior; four found that older people were
more willing to purchase green products; and four studies had no significant results.

A study in US conducted with a survey using a random cluster sample (Roberts, 1996) put in
evidence that age had an impact on ecologically conscious consumer behavior (ECCB),
showing evidence with older consumers more willing to buy environmentally friendly
products. In this study, ECCB was measured using a scale of 22 behavioral items. In the
study, all demographics combined showed only 6 per cent of the variation in the sample;
when attitudinal variables where added, the percentage of variance rose to 45 per cent.

In the same year, a study on buying behavior of Canadian and Hong Kong female
supermarket shoppers (Chan, 1996) found that younger consumers were more likely to buy
environmentally friendly products. For the study 10 statements related to purchase behavior
were used. Those statements focused on reducing usage, reusability and recyclability of
products.

Another study interested in studying green consumer behavior in the new millennium
(Straughan, R.D. and Roberts, J.A., 1996) used a sample of college students, showing that age
was significantly correlated with green consumer behavior. This study took in consideration
 17

students’ purchases of goods with a more positive impact on the environment.

On the other side, a survey by ICOM Information and Communication (2008) highlighted that
consumers with older than 55 were the most willing to buy eco-friendly products in the
United States. (Nastu, 2008). In particular, females in the range 55-59 were twice as likely as
the average to buy green products, while males from 65 to 69 years old were more than 1.7
times as likely to buy and use green products if compared to the average American.

A study conducted by Do Paço et al. (2009) on Portuguese consumers, analysed three clusters
of consumers based on demographics and measures of concern, affect, knowledge,
environmentally friendly buying behavior and other dimensions. Among the three clusters,
one was identified as the most environmentally concerned and defined as “the green
activists”. This cluster included the age segments of 25-34 and 45-54.

Education

The most consistent results were found with education level influencing green purchase
behaviour.

In fact, some studies show that the higher the education level, the more consumers are willing
to buy green products

A study conducted by Chekima et al. (2016) suggested that cultural values and environmental
advertising are the main influences in building green purchase intentions, while
environmental knowledge is not significantly related. Results also showed that education
level and gender have a significant positive moderation effect, while income did not.

The previously mentioned study conducted by Chan (1996) on buying behavior of Canadian
and Hong Kong consumers, took in consideration under age, showed that more educated
consumers were more willing to buy more environmentally friendly products.

Roberts’ study (1996), also described under age above, found out witha nationwide survey the
positive impact of education on ECCB. However, when adding attitudinal variables in the
study, the educational impact resulted as non-significant.

The study conducted by Do Paço et al. (2009), described as well related to age above, also
found that those ones in the cluster who demonstrated the highest level of concern about the
 18

environment had high education levels.

Moreover, in a study on green purchase behavior among young urban Indian consumers
through the lens of Theory of Planned Behavior, Taufique and Vaithianathan (2018)
demonstrated that well-educated & young people seem to be more concerned about
environment (Liere and Dunlap, 1980), and 65% of Indian population are millennial (born
after 1980) (Goldman Sachs, 3026).

Goldman and Sachs (2016) also demonstrated that Indian‘Educated Urban Mass’ (people
having at least an undergraduate degree) constitute the most important group of spending
consumers in India. Consequently, understanding green consumer behavior of educated
young generation is crucial to develop sustainable marketing strategies for the target group
(Hume, 2010; Kanchanapibul et al., 2014).

In this cases, the two variables of age and education are strictly correlated due to the crescent
evolution of the country. In fact, the majority of educated population is young. It would be
interesting to see if this changes when analysing green consumer behavior influenced by those
variables in another country context.

In contrast, Fleith de Medeiros et al. (2016) found that the education level had no significance
over consumers green purchase behavior. Probably, this finding is related to the thresold
education level of green consumption of consumers having already being reached, leading to
a scarce signficance of the education level variable.

Income

The International Institute for Sustainable Development (Elgar, 2006) found that consumers'
environmentally friendly actions are related to the level of income; the more consumers earn,
the more likely they perform environmentally friendly actions. Their study found that usage
of green products depends on the level of income.

The above mentioned study by do Paço et al. (2009) found out that Portuguese consumers
with higher income levels were more likely to show ECCB.

Moreover, Meyer and Liebe (2010) conducted a research about the willingness to pay more
taxes for environmental protectionand to pay for a device aiming to reduce CO2 emissions or
fuel producing less CO2. The study demonstrated that Switzerland population with an higher
 19

income were more willing to pay for those environmentally friendly products and services.

On the other side, Roberts (1996) in his study – described under age - determined that people
with lower income level were more likely to exhibit ECCB.

Since a lot of people who will be asked to complete the survey are students, only age,
education and gender variables will be included as an input for dividing into clusters. In fact,
including the income variable could be misleading for the results to be significant. Based on
previous findings, including this variable is highly recommended for future studies on green
consumer behavior.

2.2 Social influence and subjective norms

Consumers are incredibely influenced by the social environment. In fact, when purchasing
green products, behavior may also be influenced by subjective norms, which can be defined
as perceived social pressure for a person to perform a behaviour or not (Thøgersen, 2010).

A study conducted by Zhao et al. (2014) about green purchasing behaviour among Chinese
population, shows that people who declare to have a positive attitude towards buying organic
products also have energy saving behaviours, such as recycling paper, glass and plastic and no
using of disposable tableware (Zhao et al., 2014). Other studies show a positive correlation
between the environmental, social and ethical values of consumers and their purchase
behaviour toward green products (Chen and Chai, 2010, Peattie, 2010, Arvola et al., 2008,
Thøgersen and Olander, 2006).

Consumers, as social people, are influenced by the people and groups around them when
making behavior decisions. Indeed, consumers with a more collectivistic way of thinking are
more like to buy sustainable products, when compared to people with a more individualistic
way of thinking. Not a surprise that Chinese people, who give more importance to collective
interests than personal interests, make greener purchase choices than American people, who
have a society based on individualistic values (Zhang and Dong, 2020).

However, subjective norms are demonstrated to effective in pro-environmental consumer

behavior (Biswas and Roy, 2015b, Yadav and Pathak, 2016). For instance, Biswas and Roy
(2015b) found that the most significant influence of pro-environmental consumption behavior
comes from peer influence and social recognition. In a another study conducted in India,
Verma and Chandra (2018) found out that subjective norm has a significantly positive
 20

influence on green hotel visit intention among local consumers.

2.3 Product attributes and marketing

A packaging should be able to attract the attention of the consumer since the client takes a
decision after having lived a multisensorial approach principally based on a visual and touch
experience.

Indeed, the first phase of the purchase, consisting in capturing the attention of the consumer
and starting the stimulus to the brain, is mainly affected by the packaging effect (Romani and
Dalli, 2012).

This is the reasons why a relevant packaging is important for the brands: it captures the
attention of the consumer and it can influence the purchase intention and decision. In fact, the
ninety per cent of the consumers takes the buying decision based on the product’s packaging.
Shape, colour, typography, dimension, material and graphic essentially contibute to the
purchasing experience. (Kauppinen- Räisänen, 2014).

Moreover, to facilitate the communication with the final consumer it is necessary to include in
the packaging an informative part about the product. Every single word is important to try to
reach the end user, reason why the messague must be the clearest possible relatively to the
available space.

Moreover, an eco-label and a green packaging material are the most intuitive way to show
product attributes related to sustainability, since they directly provide information, like the
production cycle, origin and environmental footprint of the product (Zhang and Dong, 2020).
Also, it has been demonstrated that circular eco-labels stimulate consumers’ purchase desire
more (Xu et al., 2012).
 21

Figure 5: Image of some examples of circular eco-labels (Xu et al., 2012).

Another way to stimulate purchase desire is advertising. The advertising appeals of green
products can be with an abstract or concrete appeal. The publicity effect of the abstract appeal
is demonstrated to be better than that of concrete appeal. (Yang et al., 2015). Thereby, brands
should concentrate more on an astract appeal of advertising. By the way, the brands should be
careful to stay in the line of transparency by not overcoming and making the “greenwashing
effect happen”. (Zhang et al., 2018). The impact of greenwashing, indeed, can have very
negative consequences and have an impact on the trust in the brand and the product. (Jager et
al., 2020).

While this chapter outlined various factors that can influence consumers’ reaction towards
sustainable products, the next chapter will focus on how sustainability-related reactions may
be conveyed by a specific factor of great importance, namely the packaging.
 22

3. Consumers’ perception towards green packaging

3.1 Impact of packaging

The packaging represents the first touch between consumer and product. Kotler (2015)
describes it as “the set of activities aimed at designing and realising the container or envelope
of the product”.

In logistical terms the packaging can be classified in three different levels:

- Primary packaging, or sales package: it represents the single packaging sold in the
store (Golfarelliand Rizzi, 2011). It contains and keep the product intact up to the final
consumption (ex. Bottles, cans)
- Secondary packaging, or multiple packaging, covers the sales package in order to
preserve the product. It supports mobility (Ferraresi, 2003), storage and distribution
within the store (Golfarelliand Rizzi, 2011)
- Tertiary packaging, or transport packaging, envelops the primary and secondary
packaging and includes the packages needed to transport the good bought from the
store to the place of consumption (f.i shopping bag).

The objective is to facilitate logistics, transportation and movement (Colombo, 2005), by

keeping in mind that those action risk to alter the product due to the fact that it is exposed to
air, humidity, variations of temperature, dust, insects, vibrations, bumps, if not correctly
protected (Azzi, 2012). The majority of products is covered from packages of all the three
types: for this reason it is important for them to be integrated with each other by being
covered with the same graphics, colours, and harmonised shapes, with the objective of giving
a sense of continuity (Ferraresi, 2003).

The packaging – however – doesn’t just contain and preserve the product since after the
materials evolution and transformation of printing and packaging technologies and after the
development of the production and distribution system, it became an essential instrument is
the strategic planning of the good sold.

The expansion of the concurrence, of the self-service sale and the abundance of products on
the shelves of the stores have led to a strong attention toward the consumer (Kotler 2015).
The packaging has to guarantee practicity, protection and an easy opening (i.e. can’s tear
opening), that can be re-closed (e.g. vacuum bags for food) and that could contain and protect
 23

the product assuring the basic qualities. In addition, the packaging has the function to
facilitate the storage to create a new competitive advantage (e.g. dimensions of detergents
containers for washing machines). (Caruso, 2005). Moreover, it has to identify, represent,
differentiate from the others, giving evidence to its image and quality. It is relevant for the
packaging to give informations about usage, deadline and place of production that need to be
coherent and reflect the real characteristics of the product in order to inspire the conclusion of
the sale (Kotler, 2015).

This is how a fidelized relationship between product and consumer is built, that continues in
time thanks to the product’s characteristics but also to the sensations that the packaging is
able to communicate (Morelli, 2002).

3.2 Sustainable packaging: a definition

Green packaging started to gain a crescent importance associated with product quality and
due to health, ethical reasons and mostly to raise awareness about environmental issues.
Consumers are every day more oriented to a sustainable life characterized by the perception
of pollution as an issue, by the use of alternative sources of energy and by a more informed
approach towards household waste and divert wastes (Magnier and Criè, 2015). In particular,
concerning divert wastes, the primary packaging is often matched with the secondary and
tertiary ones, generally created with different materials. This means that in the lavoration
numerous resources are deployed, causing an high quantity of wastes and consequently an
high environmental impact (Zhang and Zhao, 2012). For those reasons consumers are putting
their efforts in ordert to be play an active role in the resolution of such environmental issues,
by choosing sustaibable products and related packagings, always trying to keep their
preferences and purchase attitudes (Rokka and Uusitalo, 2008).

For one thing a sustainable packaging involves three principal aspects, being the company
itself, the economy and the enviroment. The company permits to ease the recycling operations
though symbols and simplifying labels, to give the adquate information, to adapt the
packaging to the different consumers’ needs, to garantuee quality and trust, to preserve
workers and their safeness in workplaces. The economical aspect refers to costs and revenues:
companies try to differentiate of packagings if compared to other products, with the objective
to increase sales and reduce costs packaging-related (García-Arca et al., 2017). The last
aspect, the environment has a relevant importance, having the attention related to packaging
 24

acquired a crescent demand for attention through the years. In fact, when choosing the right
packaging, it is important to consider the whole life cycle of a product since the
environmental impact starts with the rendering and ends with the final disposal (García-Arca
et al., 2017).

The life cycle analysis (LCA) permits to evaluate using international standards the impact of a
product on its whole lifestyle (Lewis, Verghese and Fitzpatrick, 2010). It includes a range of
procedures for the compilation and analysis of the production inputs, that is to say raw
materials and energy deployed and for the outputs, that is to say all the environmental impacts
related to wastes directly associated with a product’s and its packaging fonctionning for its
whole life cycle. This way, an immediate classification of the function that the product will
have (Azzi & al., 2012). A score is assigned to each product, based on its environmental
impact on the greenhouse effect, on ozone depletion, on ocean acidification. Based on these
kind of evaluations, the first decisions on feasibility and project realization are taken
(Kalisvaart and van der Horst, 1995).

Moreover, in valuing the environmental performances of a product and its packaging it must
be considered the net material (quantity of material that is not going to be recycled), the gas
emissions for the greenhouse effect, the use of natural sources of energy. A good planification
has to be made in order to ensure an energy saving and a use of raw materials causing the less
environmental impact possible. During a sustainable project it has to be considered also the
context of sustainability in which to perform, starting from the definition of the way to the
evaluation of those actions and their put into action with related results and feedback (Svanes,
2010).

The green packaging is estetically defined through its structure, that includes used materials,
related characteristics, a graphic reported with specific colours, images, logo, the product
information needed. A sustainable packaging is convenient, healthy for single users and for
the community, effective if it complies with the aim for which it has been created, safe if it
can satisfy the market needs in terms of price and performance and if it can minimize the risks
for the health of people and ecosystems (Magnier & Criè, 2015).

The focus is then on a packaging with the lowest possible quantity of material, to result thin
and light, so that can be reused to reduce the volume of wastes, it doesn’t cause any pollution
for the user and the environment during its entire life cycle and it’s the most innovative
 25

possible. The attempt is also to try to increase sales of packaging made of raw recycled
materials, choosing for example biodegradable paper packagings (rather than plastic) that
contain the minimum quantity of dangerous substances (Zhang & Zhao, 2012).

In the past years a lot of suppliers and retailers invested in the development of eco-friendly
products (Crabbé et al., 2013; Gleim et al., 2013; Lin et al., 2011). These eco-friendly
products are considered as eco-innovations, so innovative products which are more
sustainable than conventional alternatives (Jansson, 2011). Eco-innovations have different
good aspects. In fact, besides the environmental benefits and cost-savings because of less
resources being used, they help the company improve its differentiation strategy conducting
to competitive advantage (Crabbé et al., 2013; Lin, Chung et al., 2013; Guendelman,
Medeiros et al., 2014). For this reason, it is important to identify the target groups that are
interested in eco-innovations since it has to be understood how to build specific strategies to
address these segments using the right marketing instruments.

3.3 Consumer’s perception of an eco-friendly packaging

The seventy per cent of purchase decisions are taken in the store even if consumers leave their
home with the idea of buying a certain type of product (Kauppinen- Räisänen, 2014).

The material’s quality has a meaningful role in the brand experience: it would not be a good
image for the brand if, for example, an expencive jewel should be put into a paper box. On the
contrary, Tiffany builds a strong perception of it product by packing them into small blue
boxes recalling emotions, memories, and quality perception (Dejan, 2017). It is important for
companies the meaning behind it, that leaves a message through its packaging. Indeed, they
bet everything on the packaging to embellish the product, that is used to build an experience
to amaze the consumer.

In general, when buying sustainable products, consumers decide basing on the perceptions
they have. A study conducted by Nguyen et al. (2020) analysed the three main dimensions of
consumers’ perception of an eco-friendly packaging.

3.3.1 Packaging material

Concept

The first and most relevant dimension of eco-friendly packaging is related to packaging
 26

material.

In this Master’s thesis, packaging material has a central role in defining consumers’ reactions
to cosmetic products with an eco-friendly packaging material. This is supported by Lindh et
al. (2016b) who discovered that sustainable packaging development begins with packaging
materials.

In fact, previous studies found out that consumers principally build their opinion on products’
eco-friendliness based on material cues. The concept of packaging material is strongly related
to the idea of the 3 R’s: reduce, reuse, recycle. This kind of concept is not new and has been
demonstrated by previous studies, like Lewis and Stanley’s (2012) study in the UK that
brought to the attention that consumers’ perception and desire related to packaging go
together with the characteristics of biodegradability, recyclability and reusability. Also
Magnier and Crié (2015) found that the majority of consumers associate eco-friendly
packaging with the concept of recyclability and biodegradability.

Application

Every material is different and for this reason, when choosing the right one, it has to be
considered its resistence level and protection, the concurrents ones, preferences of consumers
based on the related characteristics. (Zielinski, 2016).

Companies should try to undertake or intensify the use of regulated and certified materials
and, if possible, choosing recycled ones, like paper, cardboard, plastic, glass or, on the
contrary, to use the other materials consciously and responsibly by respecting the tolerated
quantity for the emissions and recycling technologies, by avoiding the use of raw materials
that could lead to serious consequences for the personal health and for the environment, like
lead, mercury and tin (Azzi & others, 2012). By reducing packing costs and by grouping
products in package units on a large scale, like container or pallet, the movement, storage and
transport are made quicker instead of using single indipendent packagings. In line with this
objective they should try to creare the smallest possible primary packaging the most durable it
can be.

Different materials are usually put together with glue or other kind of sealants: in a green
perspective, those kind of substances should be avoided and substituted with natural or
vegetal adhesives to favor a better separation and a more efficient recycle of the used
 27

materials. Companies could also create a system to give an incentive to those ones who will
return back the packaging, with incentives like discount coupons or a free product (Zhang and
Zhao, 2012). The company has to transmit credible, relevant and effective messages: it must
be the first in believing in what is being offered so that to engage even the consumers who are
less open to cooperate for the environment, like the previously mentioned MAC Cosmetics
Company does.

Environmental impact

Consumers have specific preferences concerning the kind of adopted material, that needs to
be in line with its impact on the environment. It is not the case of aluminium and chlorine,
materials that can be toxic, aggressive, difficult to discard and that require an high amount of
energy for the realization. On the contrary, a study conducted by Lange and Wyser (2003)
showed that consumers positively evaluate plastic since it is a recyclable material, that hinders
the oxidation, the resists to the chemical agents and warmth and for its characteristics of cost
effectiveness,agility, versatility, resistence, chemical inertia and security.

Moreover, the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change report (2016) highlighted that
global energy consumption and associated emissions can be substantially reduced thanks to
changes in consumption patterns, by using energy savings measures, with dietary change, by
reducing food wastes. Consequently, to reduce environmental degradation a modification in
consumption behavior is needed, through a better understanding of the factors affecting
individual's actions towards ecologically conscious consumption behavior (ECCB).

Further on, 2020 Global Buying Green Report drawn up by Trivium Packaging, showed that
environmentally friendly packaging is important for more than two out of three consumers on
average. In particular, the fiftly-nine per cent of consumers say that they are less likely to buy
a product in a harmful packaging and the fourty-seven per cent of consumers won’t buy
products in packaging that is harmful to the environment. The seventy-four per cent of
consumers said they would pay more for sustainable packaging and the twenty-five per cent
are willing to pay an additional ten percent or more.

Transparency

Modern buyer is becoming increasingly more careful and demanding both from the practical
point of view and from the environmental perspective.
 28

If, on one hand, a fully paper-made pasta packaging is easier to be recycled, on the other
hand, packaging transparency has the quality of combining the product’s visibility with a
message of good preserving characteristics. This happens to be complicated to create with
metal or aluminium revested products, while it is easier for polymers, that is to say substances
coming from oil or plastic materials. The characteristic of high transparency exposes the
product to numerous heat filtrations and to remedy to the issue it is suggested to use little
transparent windows in which it is showed the most relevant part of the product instead of
offering packaging with a completely visible content.

By using a papermade packaging material with a little transparent window made in plastic,
first of all the product is preserved because it mantains its original characteristics and
properties over time, and the consumer is more pushed to buy it to find it out in its integrity.

An example is the Barilla company, with its famous packaging in cardboard with a little
transparent window on the front, so that their packagings are easier to recycle, if compared to
some totally transparent other brand’s pasta packagings. (Sanchez, 2020). Sometimes, when
the brand raises over time a very big awareness, it can take the decision to eliminate that little
window to make a 100% sustainable packaging, that is what Barilla decided to do, by creating
a new packaging with no window on the front and knowing that this won’t affect sales
negatively. Istead, the prediction is that sales will grow (see Figure 6 below).

Figure 6: Image of some examples of Barilla new eco-friendly packagings (Sanchez, 2020).

Fiber-based and glass-made packagings

 29

Following the companies’ example, consumers can obtain a lot of trust and clarity about the
environmental sustainability and start to have a new purchase mentality and environmental
respect that comes to be applied to the choice of functional and green packagings. In fact, the
growing attention towards environmental issues and the desire to protect the planet made it
possible to find alternative solutions to plastic, mainly using fiber-based (vegetal and organic)
and glass-made packagings.

Natural materials like fiber-based materials, are associated with animals and plants and
environmentally friendly products. They usually transmit a unique identity, coming from the
natural imperfection of in surface or shape resulting from this kind of material. Consequently,
the idea of nature transmits the idea of sustainable and biodegradable, strenghtening value for
natural materials, thing that usually brands do when they want to transmit eco-friendliness
(Karana, 2012). Fiber can generate multiple natural materials. The most used in the pacakging
industry, deriving from fiber, are: paper and cardboard, wood, canapa, bamboo. This kind of
packagings value the environmental sustainability because of their recyclability and
biodegradability. Those kind of materials are constantly adjourned (Bucchetti, 2015) thanks to
their versatility, making it possible to easily fold it, being able to create new shapes to adapt
to the different needs and tastes of each client.

Deriving from wood, wood-polymer composites (WPCs) are a group of eco-innovative

materials with the potential to contribute to a more efficient resource allocation (Teuber et al.,
2016). Those composites had a worldwide market growth in the last decade, that is probably
going to increase in the next few years (Carus et al., 2008; Eder and Carus, 2013). Despite
this, WPCs are mostly unknown to many customers and the consumer acceptance is nearly
unexplored (Haider and Eder, 2010; Weinfurter and Eder, 2009). This kind of material has
been studied from Osburg et al. (2015) in relation to two traditional materials. On one side
solid wood, more expensive than WPCs and resource consuming in mass consumption; on the
other side, traditional full plastics, a cheap but environmentally dangerous material if based
on fossil fuels. Osburg et al. (2015) demonstrated in their study on consumers acceptance of
WPCs with a focus on innovative and environmentally friendly concerned consumers,
consumers have a clear preference for WPCs over plastics. They also found out that the
higher the environmental concern and the innovativeness of consumers, the more WPCs were
accepted.

This kind of material is composed of wood, plastics and additives (Caufield et al., 2005). The
 30

wood component influences not only the physical and mechanical properties of the material,
but also the visual characteristics (Carus et al., 2008). At the same time, durability is
important and WPCs provide this kind of necessity without requiring additional maintenance,
thanks to the presence of plastics and additives Solid wood is generally considered to be more
eco-friendly that WPCs but it does not have the durability and other characteristics given my
plastics and additives in WPCs. (Caufield et al., 2005). Despite this, research about consumer
acceptance of wood-based products principally concerns solid wood and not WPCs. However,
WPCs composition has a good eco-friendliness and it can be considered a fully
environmentally conscious material if all the components have an high eco-friendliness
(Teuber et al., 2016).

When they have to choose between solid wood and plastics, consumers are expected to
choose solid wood. (Anderson and Hansen, 2004; Cai and Aguilar, 2013a; Jonsson et al.,
2008). In Anderson and Hansen (2004) study on the impact of environmental certification on
preferences for wood furniture, a key finding was that willingness to pay more for certified
forest products (CFPs) was highest among those who placed the greatest importance on
environmental certification. In addition to this, Cai and Aguilar’s study on consumers’
purchasing preference and CSR in wood products industry showed that consumers were more
likely to choose products from manufacturing companies with a higher level of CSR rating
and expressed higher interest in wood products made of solid wood compared with
composites. Moreover, Jonsson et al. (2008), in their study on consumers perception and
preferences on solid wood, wood-based panels and composites demostrated that – when
comparing 19 core categories reflecting samples - preferred core categories were the wood
categories with their naturalness, wood-likeness, smoothness, living impression, and value.
The least liked core categories were processed, hard, and high weight.

This happens too when consumers have to choose between solid wood and wood-based
products that are composites Therefore, since WPCs have natural and synthetic components,
they will be placed in the middle between solid wood and plastic packaging products, in
consumers’ preference. However, the drivers of green consumer behavior and their
willingness to pay vary between different product categories and also within the same
category (Essoussi and Linton, 2010; Krystallis and Chryssoidis, 2005; Luchs et al., 2010;
Yue et al., 2009). Hence, there is a reason to think that maybe consumer behavior could vary
for instance concerning cosmetic products, since in this category of products durability of
materials and functionality of packaging is more relevant, being the product inside easily
 31

alterable. For the same reason, even the brands theirselves could prefer WPC materials over
solid wood for their cosmetic eco-friendly products.

Furthermore, Glass is considered like the material representing the characteristics of

sustainability and transparency, health and safeness, preservation of the taste. Glass amber
bottles are very good at protecting from the light; consumers prefer them even because they
permit to see the product inside of it. Glass is also a great insulating material and good at
keeping the product colder if compared to other materials (Zielinski, 2016).

Glass packaging can also be kept for a longer time than the one necessary for the product
utilization, strenghtening the relation between brand and consumers (Cristini, D’Onofrio &
Fornari 2008). This material can be also used to represent specific luxury cathegories by using
bottles with thick base and few decorations with a unique combination of colours, graphic and
style to make the product result handmade, sophisticated, natural and authentic (Zielinski,
2016). Even so, it is not always preferred by the clients: some of them prefer plastic
containers because of an eventual lower price, lower weight and risk of breaking (Lange and
Wyser, 2003).

To amaze, involve, excite the consumer it is possible to combine one of the above mentioned
materials with some special effects like a soft touch material, or with voluminous folds
(Dejan, 2017).

3.3.2 Market appeal

The second key dimension of an eco-friendly packaging as stated by Nguyen et al. (2020)
study, is market appeal. Market appeal is “the ability of a packaged product to attract
consumers’ attention at the point of purchase”. It is defined by three traits: visual
presentation, functional performance and price.

Visual Presentation

Most participants in the study of Nguyen et al. (2020) said that whether or not the packaging
is eco-friendly, it should be attractively designed and affordable. Most of them affirmed that,
in the past, they had made purchase decisions often based on the attractive appearance of the
packaging. By the way, this affirmation is in contraddiction with Martinho et al. (2015) who
found that packaging design is not as important as a low price to consumers. However, other
studies demonstrate that aesthetically appealing packaging increases the desire of purchase
 32

(Norman, 2005), encourages to pay a price premium (Bloch et al., 2003), causes preference
over well-known brands (Reimann et al., 2010).

Besides, in Nguyen et al. (2020) study, a lot of participants affirmed that eco-friendly
packaging was not aesthetically pleasing, because most of consumers’ perception is that eco-
friendly packaging, either biodegradable or paper-based, has a lower quality when compared
to plastic. It can be supported by Magnier and Crie’s (2015) study, who reported that
sustainable packaging is perceived like less appealing by consumers due its simplicity and
lack of colours. It can be deduced that non-sustainable packaging is often associated with a
nice and coloured packaging in plastic, as also stated by the participants in Nguyen’s study.

Not surprisingly, brands took care of launching very interesting campaigns to spread the
message that an eco-friendly packaging can be very coloured and nice and at the same time be
made of plastic 100% sustainable and recyclable. Among them, a very famous campaign is
linked L’Oréal’s company launch of a new natural and sustainable range of products, from the
Garnier division. As you can see from the following image, the company took care not only
of creating an eco-friendly packaging with natural ingredients, but also of its graphic, which
is both coloured and elaborated, suggesting an high quality of the product inside.

Figure 7: Fructis hair food, sustainable and natural new line appartaining to Garnier division.

Moreover, on the label we can notice the presence of information about the nature of the
product: vegan, recyclable, without sylicons. This kind of attitude from the brand is due to the
previously mentioned need for epistemic value from consumers, meaning the net perceived
utility derived to satisfy the want of knowledge and seeking novelty in information
(Hirschman, 1980; Sheth et al., 1991; Laroche et al., 2001) In fact, lack of essential product
 33

information often causes a gap between actual consumer’s environmental attitude and actual
buying behavior (Ginsberg and Bloom, 2004).

Impact of coherence between graphic and verbal sustainability cues

As anticipated before, among the product attributes just like among the visual presentation of
an eco-friendly product, the label plays a big role in defining clearly the characteristics of the
product through its informative part.

Companies use labels to describe some details about the product to identify, classify and
promote the product and the brand and interact with the buyer (Kotler & Keller, 2015). The
label has to define clearly and transparently the characteristics of the product represented. The
accomplishment that the buyer is looking for can be satisfied by the information reported on
the label, so it can be determinant for the purchase decision. Based on this, consumers judge
the product after the consumption to understand their level of satisfaction and the eventual
intention of re-purchase (Van der Colff et al., 2016).

The value of the information is different for each consumer because it depends on the
attention they invest based on the personal interest. It can be noticed that the purchase of
products with an high engagement is the result of an accurate evaluation made by the
consumer. On the contrary, it has been noticed that if the products with little engagement are
bought, it happens without giving too much attention to the information written on the
package.

In particular, when referring to sustainable products, the coherence between graphics and
verbal sustainability claims is very important. Indeed, the credibility of the product is highly
influenced by coherence. In fact, a Study made by Magnier and Schoormans (2015) on
consumers reactions to sustainable packagings, analyses the interplay of visual appearance,
verbal claim and environmental concern. The results indicate that consumers with low
environmental concern evaluate a product with a conventional package with a verbal
sustainability claim more negatively. This result could be linked to the high skepticism among
consumers with low environmental concern (Mohr et al., 1998). Indeed, some consumers may
interpret the incoherence between the package aspect of a product and the verbal claim as a
method of greenwashing. Despite the limited number of studies on greenwashing, it has been
demonstrated that green talking could particularly damage brands. Green talking happens
when brands try to convince their customers that their activities are sustainable when they are
 34

not (Walker & Wan, 2012).

Functional performance

The functionality of a packaging, in the specific, can be intended as being “fit-for-purpose”,

as stated by Verghese and Lewis (2007), who states the functionality of packaging as being
adapt to protect the products inside, while having at the same time the lowest environmental
impact of packaging materials.

Some of the participants to Nguyen’s study claim that they could rather choose a less
sustainable product if they retain it has an higher functional performance if compared to its
sustainable alternative. For instance, a paper package is retained by few participants as being
not-so-effective in protecting the quality of a product, especially if they are considering to buy
some instant noodles. Aside from this little piece of people claiming that, the majority part of
participants to Nguyen’s study did not even mention packaging’s functional characteristics.
The deduction is that the sample taken for the study of Vietnamese consumers’ preferences
concerning instant noodles other key characteristics are more important than functionality,
like visual presentation or price. This kind of conclusion about this key dimension lead us to
think about the fact that functionality of a package can vary a lot based on the kind of product
and also on its market responding.

Price

The third dimension related to the market appeal of an eco-friendly packaging is price. Eco-
friendly packaging is usually perceived to be more expensive for consumers. Some
participants to Nguyen’s study affirm that - besides visual attractiveness - if there is not
affordability and convenience, they do not feel encorauged to make a trial of the product. In
fact, previous studies found that price is one of the most important criteria in purchase
decision (Martinho et al., 2015) and it ha salso been demonstrated that there are consumers
who are not willing to pay a price premium, like in Magnier and Crié, 2015. Also Krystallis
and Chryssohoidis (2005) found that, unless consumers are convinced that the product
satisfies market appeal characteristics at the point of purchase, they would not have paid for a
price premium. On the contrary, in South Africa most of consumers have a long term vision
as they think an eco-friendly packaging would save money in the long term thanks to the
possibility of being reusable (Scott and Vigar-Ellis, 2014).
 35

3.3.3 Manufacturing technology

The third dimension related to eco-friendly packaging perspection according to the Nguyen et
al. (2020) study is manufacturing technology. In fact, according to the focus groups examined
within the study, eco-friendly packaging is also the result of an eco-friendly manufacturing
process and it also derives from the use of natural and organic raw materials. This could be a
paradox, based on LCA measurements of synthetic versus natural material production
(Boesen et al., 2019). In fact, “natural” or “organic” is not always a synonym of “eco-
friendly”, since not always manufacturing technologies and practices that use natural raw
materials respect the environment like if they had used synthetic materials (i.e. deforestation
issue). Consumers’ concerns related to raw materials do find a justification in the study from
Palombini et al. (2017), proving that often packaging materials are associated with
environmental issues. Also, some focus group from a study of Nguyen et al. (2020) claim that
the manufacturing process should be improved to reduce the environmental footprint. In fact,
they stated that the responsibility of providing an eco-friendly packaging mostly lies with
manufacturers. Those claims find an evidence in a study from Scott and Vigar-Ellis’ (2014)
results, where consumers show that they expect manufaturers to adopt as the first ones an eco-
friendly manufacturing process.
 36

4. Illustration about the use of sustainable packaging materials in the cosmetic

industry

4.1 L’Oréal’s eco-friendly packaging evolution

The recyclability and biodegradability of products’ packaging material has a strong effect on
consumers’ mind at the point of purchase, especially on consumers with an high
environmental concern. Based on this kind of evidence, L’Oréal company, todays’ first
cosmetic group worldwide, decided to make a commitment towards sustainability starting
from the design stage. Just like the effort of using completely recyclable and biodegradable
packaging for its cosmetic products since 2007, the company believes in the 3R rule: reduce,
reuse and recycle. In fact, the objective is not only to reach a totally sustainable packaging
through its materials, but also by respecting the environment and by reducing the amount of
resources needed.

The aim of developing a responsible packaging at L’Oréal is to protect consumer health and
biodiversity and to protect the environment. This happens by using materials with the smallest
possible environmental impact, by choosing optimal dimensions and with the optimization of
materials for recycling.

For this reason, in 2007 the company decided to include, within its policies, the
“Packaging&Environment” policy that includes the 3R “adapted” policy: respect the
consumer and the environment, reduce packaging volume and weight, replace materials with
an high environmental footprint with recycled materials or with materials realized with
renewable resources.

In particular, as indicated in the L’Oréal 2017 Annual Report, the company joined the New
Plastics Economy in 2017. This concerns a three-year global initiative, bringing together
more than 40 industry giants in chemistry and mass consumption, and building long-term
relationships with local authorities and recycling companies. The objective was to create a
new plastics economy where circular economy is applied to reach a 70% recycling rate for
plastic packaging.

Today, L’Oréal company has reached its objective of creating a new plastics economy and
this year launched an example is its first product line in FMCGs of 100% recyclable
packaging skincare products.
 37

In this chapter, we will analyse the advancements in terms of product material technology, for
what concerns the L’Oréal case study.

4.2 Paper-based packaging

4.2.1 La Roche-Posay X Albéa

In 2020, L’Oréal launched its first paper-based cosmetic tube, as a result of the company’s
collaboration under La Roche Posay brand with Albea, a world leader in the cosmetic
packaging (Culliney, 2020).

Figure 8: L’Oréal x Albea Partnership for the first carton-based cosmetic tube (Culliney, 2020).

The product, containing the new moisturising Anthelios sunscreen lotion, is packed in a
200ml paper-based tube. The product’s aim is to protect the skin, marine life with its formula
and environment.

The product was first launched in France, and then in the rest of the world. The launch was
the first collaboration between the two brands, but the companies said it would not be the last.
More L’Oréal brands are in line to follow (Culliney, 2020).
 38

Figure 9: La Roche-Posay first paper-based cosmetic tube (Culliney, 2020).

4.2.2 Seed Phytonutrients

This product wasn’t the first company’s launch of a paper-based product packaging. In fact, in
April 2018 L’Oréal company launched its “most organic brand ever created” according to its
founders in USA (L’Oréal, n.a.). Led by Shane Wolf, International Brand General Manager at
L’Oréal and a man with deep roots in farming, Seed Phytonutrients operate sas an
independent venture funded by L’Oréal. The brand has access to group experts in terms of
product design but can also work with independent partners.

This project has the objective to reconnect the beauty industry with the land. In fact, the
company sources from small family-run organic farms who plant and harvest exclusively for
the brand. This marks a paradigm shift in the relationship between organic farmers and
cosmetics industry, helping to support farmers in the organic field.

Figure 10:Seed Phytonutrients paper-based packaging. Ouside and inside view (L’Oréal, n.a.)

The initiative is part of L’Oréal’s Sharing Beauty With All (SBWA) sustainability program.
Through this initiative, L’Oréal Group has been promoting a more responsible production and
distribution of cosmetics over the past five years, part of its corporate responsibility active
division. Moreover, the product has been designed to have “as little impact on the earth as
possible” thanks to its packaging made of 100% recycled paper and 60% less plastic than a
traditional shampoo bottle and also thanks to its totally organic formulas.

4.3 Glass made packaging

4.3.1 Giorgio Armani Beauty

 39

My Way, a Fragrance by Giorgio Armani Beauty in partnership with L’Oréal Group for the
beauty division, has been launched in August 2020 (L’Oréal, n.a.).

Figure 11: My way. A sustainable refillable perfume by Armani brand (L’Oréal, n.a.).

The feminine fragrance reflects the two brands five years commitment to reduce their carbon
footprint by 25%, along with achieving carbon neutrality for all products by 2025. The flacon
has been realized with recycled and recyclable materials, while the fragrance is composed of
sustainably sourced ingredients. Moreover, to reduce material waste, Armani Beauty will
employ a bottle refill system.

4.4 Sustainable Plastic

4.4.1 Biolage R.A.W.

Biolage R.A.W. (Real.Authentic.Wholesome.) is the result of Matrix’s brand commitment to

sustainability.

Its Nourish Shampoo and Conditioner line is the key example of the brand’s commitment to
sustainable packaging. The line has been launched on the market in 2017 and it is consists of
products made of 100% post-recycled PET plastic with its shampoo reaching the 99%
biodegradability of its formula. (Beauty Packaging, 2017). Also, some raw materials are
organic and fair trade. In 2017 the product obtained the Cradle to Cradle Silver Certification
based on their material health, material re-utilization, renewable energy and carbon
management, water stewardship and social fairness.
 40

Figure 12: Biolage R.A.W. totally recylcled PET plastic shampoos (Beauty Packaging, 2017).

4.5 The future of plastic: carbon capture in cosmetics

Moreover, the company just announced – in October 2020 - its collaboration with the US-
headed bioprocess developer and carbon recycler Lanza Tech, Inc. and the oil, gas and energy
major Total S.A. (Culliney, 2020). The objective is the future launch of the world’s first
sustainable plastic packaging line, made from captured and recycled carbon emissions.

Figure 13: L’Oréal plastic packaging line made from captured and recylced carbon emissions (Culliney, 2020).

As you can see from Figure 13, L’Oréal has created a sustainable cosmetics bottle made of
polyethylene from captured and recycled carbon emissions with the objective to launch the
product within four years. (Culliney, 2020).

Jacques Playe, director of packaging and development at L’Oréal, said that the project with
Total and LanzaTech offered a promise of a “new sustainable packaging solution that would
have helped the L’Oréal brand to go further with its goals of improving its environmental
footprint in packaging.
 41

In the following chapter, the reasearch will be presented. The different types of materials used
in the study were drawn from this illustration.
 42

Part 2: Empirical analysis

1. Conceptual frame

As previously analysed, the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change report (2016)

highlighted that to reduce environmental degradation a modification in consumption behavior
is needed, through a better understanding of the factors affecting individual's actions toward
ecologically conscious consumption behavior (ECCB).

Would environment benefit from the progressive reduction of wastes through an

environmentally conscious consumer buying behavior (ECCB) towards cosmetic products
with an eco-friendly packaging?

As 2020 Global Buying Green Report (Trivium Packaging) claimed, environmentally friendly
packaging is important for the majority of consumers. In particular, a great percentage of
them say that they are less likely to buy a product in a harmful packaging and almast the half
of them won’t buy products in packaging that is harmful to the environment. A really big
percentage of consumers also said they would pay more for sustainable packaging.

Moreover, it can be said that sustainability drives sales. In fact, the NYU Stern School of
Business (Kronthal-Sacco R et al., 2020) found that sustainability-marketed products grew
5.6 times faster than conventionally marketed products.

This study helps to identify and measure the factors influencing consumers’ behavioral
intention through cosmetic products with an eco-friendly packaging.

As Taufique et al. (2018) demonstrated in a study on green consumer behavior among young
urban Indian consumers through the lens of Theory of Planned Behavior, independent
variables like environmental attitude, subjective norm, perceived consumer effectiveness are
strongly correlated with green behavioral intention, consequently affecting ecologically
conscious consumer behavior (ECCB).

Based on this evidence, the proposed research model has been based on Ajzen’s Theory of
Planned Behavior. The model is presented in Figure 14 and will serve as a framework for
explaining consumers’ intention to behave in a proenvironmental manner and their actual
 43

environmentally conscious consumer behavior consisting in purchasing beauty products (BP)

with and eco-friendly packaging material.

By analysing environmental attitude, subjective norm, perceived consumer effectiveness,

individuals have been divided into clusters, thanks to the input of demographical data. Such
clusters will be analysed in order to verify consumers’ behavioral intention and Ecologically
Conscious Consumer Behavior (ECCB) towards beauty products (BP) with an eco-friendly
design, in particular referring to packaging materials.

• Age
• Gender
• Educati

Environment
al attitude
H1b
H1a
H2b

H5a
Pro-environmental H5b ECCB towards BP
Subjective H2a with an eco-friendly
norm Behavioral intention H4
packaging material

H5c
H3a

Perceived H3b
consumer
effectiveness

• Age
• Gender
• Educati

Figure 14: Hypotesized relationships model.

2. Hypoteses

Table 1: Hypoteses of the model.

H1 Consumers’ attitude towards the environment have a significantly positive

influence on pro-environmental behavioral intentions and consequently on
green consumer behavior towards beauty products with an eco-friendly
packaging.

H1a Consumers’ attitude towards the environment have a significantly positive

 44

influence on pro-environmental behavioral intentions

H1b Consumers’ attitude towards the environment have a significantly positive

influence on ECCB when purchasing beauty products with an eco-friendly
packaging material

H2 Subjective norm (social compatibility) has a significantly positive influence

on pro-environmental behavioral intentions and consequently on green
consumer behavior towards beauty products with an eco-friendly packaging
material.

H2a Subjective norm (social compatibility) has a significantly positive influence

on pro-environmental behavioral intentions.

H2b Subjective norm (social compatibility) has a significantly positive influence

on ECCB when purchasing beauty products with an eco-friendly packaging
material.

H3 PCE has a significantly positive influence on pro-environmental behavioral

intentions and consequently on green consumer behavior towards beauty
products with an eco-friendly packaging material.

H3a PCE has a significantly positive influence on pro-environmental behavioral

intention.

H3b PCE has a significantly positive influence on ECCB when purchasing beauty
products with an eco-friendly packaging material

H4 Consumers’ pro-environmental behavioral intention will positively influence

ECCB when purchasing beauty products with an eco-friendly packaging
material

H5 The relationship between the independent variables and ECCB when

purchasing beauty products with an eco-friendly packaging material is
mediated by behavioral intention.
 45

H5a The relationship between attitudes towards environment and ECCB when
purchasing beauty products with an eco-friendly packaging material is
mediated by behavioral intention.

H5b The relationship between subjective norms and ECCB when purchasing
beauty products with an eco-friendly packaging material is mediated by
behavioral intention.

H5c The relationship between PCE and ECCB when purchasing beauty products
with an eco-friendly packaging material is mediated by behavioral intention.

2.1 Environmental attitude

H1: Consumers’ attitude towards the environment have a significantly positive influence
on pro-environmental behavioral intentions and consequently on green consumer behavior
towards beauty products with an eco-friendly packaging material.

Concept

In the Theory of Planned Behavior framework, attitude is referred to as one of the

determinants of behavioral intention and seen as the extent of an individual's favorable or
unfavorable assessment of a particular behavior (Ajzen, 1991).

In the environmental context, attitude is defined as “ the cognitive and affective evaluation of
the object of environmental protection” (Bamberg, 2003, p. 21). In line with the definition,
some authors have argued that consumers with greater ecological concern are more likely to
be pro-environmental in their consumption behavior (e.g. Rex and Baumann, 2007, Wang et
al., 2014). As such, environmentally conscious consumers are more likely to have the
intention of adopting environmentally responsible consumption behavior.

Justification

As a start, Ellen et al. (1991) first argued that a significant starting point of Environmentally
Conscious Consumer behavior is consumers' general attitude toward environmental
 46

protection. Later, many studies have confirmed that environmental attitude is one of the most
important predictors influencing environmental behavior (e.g. Ellen, 1994, Zhao et al., 2014,
Zsóka, 2008).

The influence of attitude on behavioral intentions concerning pro-environmental consumer

behavior has been demonstrated in some studies in Indian context (e.g. Verma and Chandra,
2018, Yadav and Pathak, 2016). In fact, the two previously cited studies found a significantly
positive influence of attitude on green purchase intention. However, neither of these studies
analysed the mediating effect of behavioral intention in the attitude-behavior relationship,
even though Follows and Jobber (2000) recommended this for pro-environmental consumer
behavior.

Moreover, some authors demonstrated the significance of ECCB towards the purchase of
green products. In fact, the more closely the consumers are involved with the environment,
the more likely they are to buy green products (Alwitt and Berger 1993; Schuhwerk and
Lefkokk-Hagius 1995; Vlosky et al. 1999; Schwepker and Cornwell 1991; Rios et al. 2006).

This review of the literature led to the following hypotheses in this thesis:

Hypotesis 1a: Consumers’ attitude towards the environment have a significantly positive
influence on pro-environmental behavioral intentions

Hypotesis 1b: Consumers’ attitude towards the environment have a significantly positive
influence on ECCB when purchasing beauty products with an eco-friendly packaging
material.

2.2 Subjective norm

H2: Subjective norm (social compatibility) has a significantly positive influence on pro-
environmental behavioral intentions and consequently on green consumer behavior
towards beauty products with an eco-friendly packaging material.

Concept

The concept of subjective norm refers to the individual's assessment of others' preferences
and support for a behavior (Werner, 2004), based on a set of accessible normative beliefs
concerning the expectations of important referents, such as family members, relatives, friends,
 47

colleagues, and so on. For this reason, many researchers highlighted that individual-
consuming decisions were largely influenced by the attitudes of friends, family members, and
other important groups in the life of individuals (Chen et al., 2016).

In fact, the influence of subjective norm in marketing and consumer behavior literature is
associated with the influence of different reference groups on consumer behavior.(e.g. Hsu et
al., 2006, Yang et al., 2007).

For this reason, many social campaigns have used the social norm of conformity to shape
behavior by suggesting the preferable behavior by the majority (Perkins, 2003).

Justification

Social norm in significant in determining pro-environmental consumer behavior (Biswas and

Roy, 2015b, Yadav and Pathak, 2016). In line with this, Biswas and Roy (2015b) found that
the most significant influence of pro-environmental consumption behavior comes from peer
influence and social recognition.

The influence of the subjective norm or reference group on consumer behavior can be culture-
specific, where individual behavior in collective society (e.g. India) is more likely to be
influenced by others (Markus and Kitayama, 1991).

Besides, Lee and Green (1991) argued that the relative importance of subjective norm on
individuals' behavior is influenced by cultural differences in different countries.

Moreover, a more recent study conducted by Chen et al. (2016) about the moderative effect of
product knowledge on the relationship between the three independent variables on green
purchase intentions, demonstrated the significance of subjective norms in determining green
puchase behavior applied to green product consumption.

Based on the litterature, the following hypotheses were proposed here:

Hypotesis 2a: Subjective norm (social compatibility) has a significantly positive influence on
pro-environmental behavioral intentions.

Hypotesis 2b: Subjective norm (social compatibility) has a significantly positive influence on
ECCB when purchasing beauty products with an eco-friendly packaging material.
 48

2.3 Perceived consumer effectiveness

H3: PCE has a significantly positive influence on pro-environmental behavioral

intentions and consequently on green consumer behavior towards beauty products with an
eco-friendly packaging material.

Concept

Perceived consumer effectiveness (PCE) represents the extent of an individual's confidence in

their personal efforts in solving a problem (Weiner and Doescher, 1991). The indipendent
variable is similar to self-efficacy (Bandura, 1986), and indicates the belief in an individual's
capability to attain goals through personal effort.

Justification

In an environmental context, PCE is the individual's internal locus of control, when for
example making a personal effort to preserve the environment (Cleveland et al., 2012). The
first starting to use PCE as a personality variable to predict environmental concern has been
Kinnear (1974). Later, researchers used it as one of the attitudinal variables in predicting
consumer behavior and consequently as a direct predictor of ECCB (Roberts, 1996).

In fact, empirical evidence shows that an individual's degree of control on their ability to
perform the behavior significantly influences their behavior (Bandura et al., 1980).

This has led to the development of the following hypotheses:

Hypotesis 3a: PCE has a significantly positive influence on pro-environmental behavioral

intention.

Hypotesis 3b: PCE has a significantly positive influence on ECCB when purchasing beauty
products with an eco-friendly packaging material

2.4 Behavioral intention

H4: Consumers’ pro-environmental behavioral intention will positively influence ECCB

when purchasing beauty products with an eco-friendly packaging material
 49

Concept

Behavioral intention refers to an individual's degree of determination and willingness to

perform specific behavior, often determined by attitude and subjective norm (Ajzen, 1988).

Justification

Ajzen (1988) suggested that the higher levels of willingness are likely to result, the better
chance of performing the behavior. The behavioral intention model was developed in
individualistic society (i.e., USA), but cross-cultural examination found the model applicable
in collective society as well (Lee and Green, 1991).

The importance of including the intention variable in models for understanding green
consumer behavior has been emphasized in past studies, particularly those that believe its
exclusion often contributed to the low correlation between environmental attitudes and
behaviors. (Follows and Jobber, 2000).

Furthermore, environmentally conscious consumers are considered to be more willing to act

for environmental improvement. In line with this assumption, Lin and Huang (2012) argued
that when two products are thought to be identical, eco-friendly aspects hold key decision
criteria in consumers' product evaluation.

Based on these findings, the following hypothesis was proposed here:

Hypotesis 4: Consumers’ pro-environmental behavioral intention will positively influence

ECCB when purchasing beauty products with an eco-friendly packaging material

2.5 Relationship between the independent psycho-social variables and

ECCB when purchasing beauty products with an eco-friendly packaging
material

H5: The relationship between the independent variables and ECCB when purchasing
beauty products with an eco-friendly packaging material is mediated by behavioral
intention.
 50

Pro-environmental
Behavioral intention
(M)

ECCB towards BP
Indipendent with an eco-friendly
variables packaging material
(X)
(Y)

Figure 15: General mediation analysis model.

In this thesis, it has also been tested the indirect effects in its proposed model on ECCB
towards beauty products with an eco-friendly packaging. As Baron and Kenny (1986)
demonstrated, when examining the mediation effects, if it is hypothesized that B mediates the
relationship between A and C, it is not sufficient to examine only the direct relationship
between A and B and between B and C. In line with this, the reasoning related to mediation
effects is also significant when predicting environmental behavior within the TPB framework
(e.g. Flamm, 2009, Oreg and Katz-Gerro, 2006). In fact, Bamberg and Möser (2007)
conducted a meta-analytic SEM (structural equation modeling) that confirmed that eco-
friendly behavioral intention mediates the influence of all other psycho-social variables on
ECCB.

For this reason, in the present model behavioral intention mediates the relationship between
independent and dependent variables.

Hence, the following hypotheses were put forward to examine the indirect effects:

Hypotesis 5a: The relationship between attitudes towards environment and ECCB when
purchasing beauty products with an eco-friendly packaging material is mediated by
behavioral intention.
 51

Pro-environmental
Behavioral intention
a b

ECCB towards BP
Attitude towards
with an eco-friendly
environment
packaging material
c
Figure 16: Mediation analysis model of pro-environmental behavioral intention between attitude towards
environment and ECCB towards beauty products with an eco-friendly packaging.

Hypotesis 5b: The relationship between subjective norms and ECCB when purchasing beauty

products with an eco-friendly packaging material is mediated by behavioral intention.

Pro-environmental
Behavioral intention
a b

ECCB towards BP
Subjective norms with an eco-friendly
packaging material
c

Figure 17: Mediation analysis model of pro-environmental behavioral intention between subjective norms and
ECCB towards beauty products with an eco-friendly packaging.

Hypotesis 5c: The relationship between PCE and ECCB when purchasing beauty products
with an eco-friendly packaging material is mediated by behavioral intention.

Pro-environmental
Behavioral intention
a b

ECCB towards BP
Perceived consumer
with an eco-friendly
effectiveness
packaging material
c
Figure 18: Mediation analysis model of pro-environmental behavioral intention between PCE and ECCB
towards beauty products with an eco-friendly packaging.
 52

3. Research Methodology

This Master’s thesis investigated attitudes and behavioral intentions of consumers with
respect to green products.

The objective of the research was to analyse green consumer behavior applied to the purchase
of beauty products with an eco-friendly packaging material.

For the research, we concentrated on three main independent variables: attitude towards
environment, subjective norm and perceived consumer effectiveness (PCE).

After having divided the sample in clusters based on socio-demographic characteristics, the
influence of the independent variables on behavioral intention was analysed to convey ECCB
attitude towards the purchase of beauty products with an eco-friendly packaging material.

To test the previously indicated hypoteses, a quantitative method based on survey collection
and data analysis has been adopted.

3.1 Sample Description

Fieldwork began with the development of a questionnaire. Questionnaires were administered

online via Qualtrics and analysed via SPSS software.

In this research study, the target population is the total population we need to have relevant
information to answer the different hypoteses.

In particular, it concerns people living in Italy. Since the survey will be conducted online, we
suppose that older people could be less predisposed to answer our survey. We are not going to
exclude them from the sample because there is, at the same time, some people of more then
55 years using social networks.

3.2 Data collection

Appendix B includes the descriptive characteristics of the sample. Survey data were collected
from 223 Italian consumers.

However, previously validated instruments were adopted to be sure about content validity of
the scales used in the current research (Hair et al., 2006). Based on Hinkin (1998) guidelines,
 53

all items were simply written and concise.

An online survey was used to collect the data. The respondents for the primary data collection
were mostly recruited via a snowball sampling technique, which was carried out by sending
the link to the survey to this Master’s thesis student network contacts (Italians only) who
forwarded the questionnaire to their peers (Italians only). The message invited them to
participate in the study and contained a link to the online survey. Survey invitations were sent
to about 300 contacts, guaranteeing anonymity and confidentiality for the respondents, and
informing them that the gathered data would be published for academic scopes.

Overall, 223 usable responses were received, yielding a 74 % response rate which is
consistent with most online survey response rates (e.g. Deutskens et al., 2004).

Of the total respondents, 77 % were female and the remaining 23 % were male, 43 % had a
Master’s degree, 22% an high school diplome and 12 % had an undergraduate degree. The
age brackets of the majority of respondents were 25 – 34 years (29 %) and 18 – 24 years (22
%).

3.3 Pre-test

A pre-test of the online survey with four people was first performed to verify the feasibility of
the survey and its pertinence. This test is verified on a little group of four people from the the
same population that will be used for the research or with equivalent characteristics.

The objective of the pre-test is to identify the level of comprehension and feasibily of the
sample. Another objective is to get to know the socio-demographic characteristics of the
sample.

Subsequently, the questionnaire was slightly modified with respect to the level of knowledge
required and the wording of the questions.

There was no criticism regarding the layout or the length of the survey. Furthermore, no
respondent at pre-test stage complained about the format of the questionnaire or the time it
took to complete the study.

3.4 Questionnaire building & measurement scales

Questionnaire is a format that enables standardised, relatively structured, data to be gathered

 54

about each of a large number of cases. They are commonly used at all levels of social
research, from small scale students and community projects through to large-scale
international surveys and laregely used to conduct research on green consumer behavior in the
majority of the studies previously analysed.

As stated by Matthews & Ross (2010), the answers to a correctly formuled set of questions
helps the researcher to answer the research question and test the hypothesis. Most
questionnaires have already structured answers, but some of them have some open questions
which gather semi structured data.

Phillips (2008) stated that a questionnaire may contain open-ended questions allowing
unlimited answers, chacklists with a list of items, two way questions limit answers (yes and
no), multiple choice questions and ranking scales.

For this study the questionnaire will be conducted via Qualtrics software after having been
designed based on the previously used model of Taufique et al. (2018) study on green
consumer behavior among young urban consumers through the lens of Theory of Planned
Behavior, because of its relevance and already tested liability on the subject of green
consumer behavior. We then adapted the questionnaire on our research study, concerning in
particular ECCB towards the purchase of beauty products with an eco-friendly packaging
material.

In particular, the questionnaire has been built on a TPB framework, which has proven to be
applicable in past studies investigating the association between environment-related attitudes
and corresponding behaviors (e.g. Kanchanapibul et al., 2014, Yazdanpanah and Forouzani,
2015).

The independent variables

i. Attitude towards environment

To measure environmental attitude, as tested by Taufique et al. (2018), three items were
adopted from Lee’s (2011) seven items scale used in his study about the role of media
exposure, social exposure and biospheric value orientation in the environmental attitude-
intention-behavior model in adolescents.

ii. Subjective norm

 55

Moreover, to measure subjective norm eight items were adopted from a nine-item scale
present in Minton and Rose’s (1997) study about the effects of environmental concern on
Environmentally Friendly Consumer Behavior conducted in South Carolina.

iii. Perceived consumer effectiveness

In addition, to measure Perceived consumer effectiveness (PCE), two items were adopted
from Roberts (1996) four-item scale.

iv. Pro-environmental behavioral intention

To measure pro-environmental behavioral intention, five items were adopted from a six-item
scale from Minton and Rose (1997)’s study. In particular, in one item, instead of asking
consumers their willingness to pay more taxes or electricity to support environmental
protection, the item was substituted with a question on their willingness to pay for a product
with an eco-friendly packaging.

v. Environmentally conscious consumer behavior (ECCB)

This variable has been measured by using 14 items from Roberts (1996) original 30-item
ECCB scale. In particular, in this case too, the items were adapted to the context in which the
study in conducted, relevant in the field of the purchase of beauty products with a sustainable
packaging material. Lastly, a seven-point Likert-type scale (1 = strongly disagree; 7 = strongly
agree) was used.

Table 2: Dimensions analysed in the survey and related sources of items.

Concept Source Number of items

Environmental attitude Lee (2011) 3
Subjective norm Minton and Rose (1997) 8
PCE Roberts (1996) 2
Pro-environmental Minton and Rose (1997) 5
Behavioral intention
Environmentally Roberts (1996) 14
conscious consumer
 56

behavior (ECCB)

Furthermore, within each variable testing, image testing was combined with questions based
on Rokka and Uusitalo’s (2008) previously mentioned study. In those questions, a choice
between two images to answer to the question is required, using images of already illustrated
products in the fourth chapter. Socio-demographic questions about age, gender and education
are asked in the beginning for the results to be divided according to clusters.

The online survey that was conducted in this study is further described in Appendix A.

4. Data analysis & results

Data management and analysis were performed using SPSS.

Structural equation modeling (SEM) was used to verify the conceptual framework and
hypoteses using SPSS calculating multiple linear regression with partial least squares (PLS-
SEM) (Lohmoller, 1988).

This approach has demonstrated to be superior to covariance-based structural equation

modeling (CB-SEM) in most of studies where sample size is relatively small (Chin and
Newsted, 1999, Reinartz et al., 2009).

Moreover, H5 will require a mediation analysis since as Bamberg and Möser (2007)
confirmed by using a meta-analytic SEM (structural equation modeling) that eco-friendly
behavioral intention mediates the influence of all other psycho-social variables on ECCB.

4.1 Reliability

As a starting point, we are going to verify if the answers are coherent with the different
groups of questions. This kind of analysis is needed because there are different groups of
questions linked to a single indipendent and unobservable variable (f.i.: 3 questions linked to
Attitude towards behavior indipendent variable). For this reason, it is fundamental that the
answers received for each group of questions are coherent with each other, otherwise the
analysis could loose its significancy.

To verify the coefficients reliability, we are going to examine Cronbach alpha’s reliability
index, developed by Lee Cronbach in 1951. Cronbach’s alpha tests to see if multiple-question
 57

Likert scale surveys are reliable. These questions measure latent variables—hidden or
unobservable variables like, in this case: a person’s attitude towards behavior, subjective
norms, behavioral intentions and environmentally conscious consumer behavior towards
beauty products with an eco-friendly packaging. Cronbach’s alpha will tell us how closely
related this sets of test items are as a group.

Table 3: Chronbach’s alpha

Variable Alpha
Attitude 0,843
Norms 0,937
Intentions 0,851
ECCB 0,944

In litterature, usually, high and significant values of reliability are those higher than 0,7.
Moreover, Cronbach Alpha is a normalized index. Consequently, results can be read in
percentages.

As it can be noticed, for all the unobserved variables of the present study Cronbach alpha
shows a reliability superior to 80%, therefore the model can be considered reliable.

4.2 PLS-SEM Modeling

For the model analysis, the partial least squares path modeling or partial least squares
structural equation modeling was chosen (Lohmoller, 1988).

PLS-SEM stuctural model is a method of structural equation modeling which allows

estimating complex cause-effect relationship models with latent variables. The model was
used to test the hypoteses via Stata17 software.

As previously mentioned, this kind of approach has proven to be superior to covariance-based

structural equation modeling (CB-SEM) in most studies where sample size is relatively small
(Chin and Newsted, 1999, Reinartz et al., 2009).

Let’s build the design of the model and implement the analysis:
 58

Figure 19: Design of the PLS-SEM structural model.

The above designed PLS-SEM model shows - in oval shapes - the unobserved variables
(independent & dependent), while - in rectangular shapes - the observed variables through the
survey. For instance, “Attitude” has to be considered as a latent, unobserved variable. On the
other side, “AttEnv_Q1”, which is the first question of the group of three questions
appartaining to Attitude, is the observed and measured variable. This kind of observation can
be applied to all the other variables.

Dual arrows represent the correlation between the three independent variables, while one way
arrows represent the influence of unobserved/latent variables on the observed/measured ones.

In particular, the first group of arrows, starting from the three independent variables, represent
not only the influence of the three unobserved variable on the observed variables, but also the
influence of the three unobserved variables on the mediating variable being behavioral
intention (indirect effect on ECCB).

The second group of arrows represent the direct influence of the three independent variables
being attitude, norms and PCE, on the dependent variable being ECCB.
 59

Little rods represent the error associated with each measured variable of the study.

Table 4: Multiple linear regression.

At first, as shown in the table, starting from PCE variable, it is highly significant as a
predictor of Behavioral intention and ECCB, having a positive effect on it. In fact PCE p-
value < 0,05, and when comparing it to the other p-values is the most significant being the
most little value. Moreover, the confidence interval being at 95% does not include 0 in both
cases affecting behavior and ECCB, confirming the significance of PCE variable in
influencing both behavioral intention and ECCB when purchasing beauty products with an
eco-friendly packaging material.

Secondly, when looking at attitude towards behavior variable, the analysis shows that attitude
p-value < 0,05 in the first case, in fact attitude is even more significant when influencing
ECCB in an indirect way. This observation is confirmed as well when looking at the
confidence interval, which does not include 0 value in the first case influencing behavioral
intention, while it includes 0 in the second case, demonstrating that the variable is even more
significant when having an indirect effect on ECCB, consequently validating the model and
the significant role of the mediation analysis in the process.

Thirdly, when analysing subjective norms variable, results showed that this variable does not
have a significance when influencing behavioral intention and ECCB. In fact, in both cases p-
value > 0,05 and the confidence interval includes 0.
 60

Last but not least, as the second analysis shows, behavioral intention p-value < 0,05 and really
low, showing its really strong significancy in the model. The confidence interval at 95% does
not include 0 and the coefficient of the variable is significantly positive, almost as PCE,
showing its positive relation when correlated to ECCB.

As emerged, the more p-value has a little value less than 0,05, the better the variable will be
significant. Moreover, as coefficients show, all variables considered have a positive influence
in the linear regression model, demonstrated by the positive values of all coefficients. In
particular, this observation is congruent with all the variables except for subjective norms.

In fact, the coefficient related to norms – even if positive – is not significantly different from
zero, furtherly proving that subjective norms do not have a significant role in influencing
either behavior or ECCB. When looking at attitude towards behavior’s coefficient, it comes
up what previously confirmed by the analysis of p-value and confidence interval. In fact,
attitude is positively corelated with behavioral intention but its positive correlation when
directly related to ECCB is weak, showing the relevant role of behavioral intention in the
model since attitude is significant in influencing ECCB only when mediated.

4.3 Model validation

Now we are going to test if the model is well congruent with data obtained and we are going
to do it with two different indices:

Table 5: CFI and TLI indices for model validation.

They are two normalized indices (between 0 and 1): the higher their value, the more the
model works well. In litterature, good models have a value higher than 0.95, but even models
higher 0,8 are considered as acceptable models.

As a whole, we can deduce that our model, even if it’s not optimal, is an acceptable model.

4.4 Mediation analysis

 61

As observed in statistics, a mediation model has the objective to identify and explain the
process that underlies an observed relationship between an independent variable and a
dependent variable via the inclusion of a third hypothetical variable, known as a mediator
variable.

Instead of using a direct causal relationship between the independent variable and the
dependent variable, a mediation model has the independent variable indirectly influencing the
(non-observable) mediator variable, which in turn influences the dependent variable.

Consequently, the role of the mediator variable is to define the nature of the relationship
between the independent and dependent variables.

In particular, mediation analysis definitely contributes to better understand the relationship

between one or more independent variables and a dependent variable when those variables do
not have an obvious direct connection.

Let’s now verify if green behavioral intention variable has a good moderative role in between
the independent variables and ECCB.

a) Mediation between Environmental attitude and ECCB

Table 6: Mediation analysis of pro-environmental behavioral intention between

environmental attitude and ECCB (See Appendix C1).

Model : 4
Y : ECCB_Q1
X : AttQ1
M : Int_Q1

Sample
Size: 223

****************** DIRECT AND INDIRECT EFFECTS OF X ON Y *****************

Direct effect of X on Y
Effect se t p LLCI ULCI
.4700 .1027 4.5786 .0000 .2677 .6723

Indirect effect(s) of X on Y:
Effect BootSE BootLLCI BootULCI
Int_Q1 .1364 .0689 .0013 .2762

As we can see from the table (full table in Appendix C.1), the confidence interval does not
 62

include 0, consequently the indirect effect is statistically significant.

Based on this, the relationship between Attitude towards behavior and Environmentally
Conscious Consumer Behavior towards the purchase of beauty products with an eco-friendly
packaging material can be explained by pro-environmental behavioral intention.

Consequently, attitude towards environment not only has a direct effect on pro-environmental
behavioral intentions, but also has an indirect effect on Environmentally Conscious Consumer
Behavior (ECCB) towards the purchase of beauty products with an eco-friendly packaging
material.

b) Mediation between Subjective norms and ECCB

Table 7: Mediation analysis of pro-environmental behavioral intention between

subjective norms and ECCB (See Appendix C.2)

Model : 4
Y : ECCB_Q1
X : Norm_Q1
M : Int_Q1

Sample
Size: 223

****************** DIRECT AND INDIRECT EFFECTS OF X ON Y *****************

Direct effect of X on Y
Effect se t p LLCI ULCI
.0707 .0496 1.4241 .1558 -.0271 .1686

Indirect effect(s) of X on Y:
Effect BootSE BootLLCI BootULCI
Int_Q1 .0339 .0244 -.0030 .0912

In this case, as we can see from the table (full table in Appendix C.2) the confidence interval
includes 0, so the indirect effect is not statistically significant.

Based on this, the relationship between Subjective norms and Environmentally Conscious
Consumer Behavior towards the purchase of beauty products with an eco-friendly packaging
material cannot be explained by pro-environmental behavioral intention.

Consequently, not only subjective norms don’t have a direct effect on pro-environmental
behavioral intentions, but they don’t even have an indirect effect on Environmentally
Conscious Consumer Behavior (ECCB) towards the purchase of beauty products with an eco-
 63

friendly packaging material.

c) Mediation between PCE and ECCB

Table 8: Mediation analysis of pro-environmental behavioral intention between PCE

and ECCB (See Appendix C.3)

Model : 4
Y : ECCB_Q1
X : Eff_Q1
M : Int_Q1

Sample
Size: 223
****************** DIRECT AND INDIRECT EFFECTS OF X ON Y *****************

Direct effect of X on Y
Effect se t p LLCI ULCI
.5951 .0493 12.0728 .0000 .4979 .6922

Indirect effect(s) of X on Y:
Effect BootSE BootLLCI BootULCI
Int_Q1 .0492 .0241 .0135 .1074

Finally, in this mediation analysis the confidence interval does not include 0, consequently the
indirect effect is statistically significant. (full table in Appendix C.3)

Based on this, the relationship between PCE and Environmentally Conscious Consumer
Behavior towards the purchase of beauty products with an eco-friendly packaging material is
explained by pro-environmental behavioral intention.

Consequently, PCE not only has a direct effect on pro-environmental behavioral intentions,
but also has an indirect effect on Environmentally Conscious Consumer Behavior (ECCB)
towards the purchase of beauty products with an eco-friendly packaging material.
 64

5. Discussion

5.1 Context of the study

This study has been conducted in the context of the cosmetics industry and its growing
evolution towards more and more eco-friendly packaged products. Based on the crescent need
for the planet to be better preserved with its resources, it has been interesting to see how the
adaptment to the evolving trends related to ecological interests can be determinant in green
consumer behavior applied to beauty & personal care products.

For this reason, sustainable developments and strategies in the cosmetic industry changed
over time by reacting to environmental issues.

As defined in the 1987 report entitled “Our common future”, sustainability is defined as the
concept of sustainable development defined as the development that is able to meet the
current needs of the population without compromising the needs of the future generations
(Bruntland, 1987).

A big change in terms of sustainable production started with one of the most relevant
documents in the sustainable development movement, Agenda 21 (United Nations, 1992),
that put in evidence the main causes of environmental degradation: unsustainable production
and consumption standards.

This came after two important waves of natural products joining the Green Game in 1970s
and 1980s, with two main first movers in the market: Caswell-Massey in America and The
Body Shop in Europe. The first one made it by selling cucumber based soaps and pineapple
hair rinses in its shop in Lexington Avenue to a selected range of clients (Csorba and Boglea,
2011). The second one in Europe, among the pioneers of the second wave, made it by using
the Caswell-Massey concept to develop and sell a complete range of bath products and
fragrances in a very simple and sustainable packaging. (Csorba and Boglea, 2011).

Nowadays, the Italian market is one of the largest in Europe both in terms of turnover and
consumption, right after Germany and France. Concerning the worldwide turnover, the Italian
cosmetics and personal care industry reached an estimated value of 11.9 billion euros in 2019
with the two leading segments being facial care and body care.

Two important litterature referrals are taken into consideration as basic assumptions for this
 65

study. The first one, based on Fernando and Hennayake’s study (2017), highlights that one of
the most important drivers of sustainability in the cosmetics industry is the awareness of
consumers about environmental and social issues that is pushing the cosmetics industry to
become “greener”.

The second relevant driver in the process that is leading the cosmetics industry to a more
sustainable path is the availability of more sustainable raw materials, like the ones presented
by Evonik during in-cosmetics 2018 (Krauter, 2018).

Packaging has a big relevance in the production process and, in particular, cosmetic
packaging has a very negative effect on the environment, contributing to land and marine
pollution and influencing biodiversity. The most important concerns related to packaging are
the excess layers and the materials used, like glass, paper and paperboard, aluminium, wood,
plastic/polymeric materials and hybrid constructs.

Some big companies have been paying crescent attention to the issue for many years, setting
on sustainability policies and a growing evolution of the cosmetic industry.

Starting from Aveda and Amore Pacific, companies well known for their sustainable
manifacturing strategies, they bring an effort to reduce the environmental impact of their
practices (Amorepacific Group, 2017; Aveda, n.d.; Feng, 2016).

Another well known company for its success in implementing sustainable packaging
production is L’Oréal, whose product will be analysed as an example of successful eco-
friendly strategy in the field of cosmetic & personal care products.

More and more companies in the cosmetic industry are following up on building a strong
strategy in sustainable care, one of them being M.A.C. with its program called “Back to
M.A.C.” (Feng, 2016; M.A.C. n.d.). and brands like Shu Uemura, INGLOT, Tarte and DHC
with their refilling policies (Feng, 2016; Inglot).

For the concept of reusing the cosmetic packaging, The Naruko cosmetic company won the
International Package Design Awards (IPDA) in 2014 (Feng, 2016).

In the context of this growing evolution, the objective of this Master’s thesis is to analyse
consumers’ evolving needs by paying attention to the variables influencing green consumer
behavior when buying beauty and personal care products with eco-friendly packaging
 66

materials.

In particular, based on litterature and on the Theory of Planned Behavior, three main variables
have been identified and analysed through a quantitative study: attitude towards environment,
subjective norms and perceived consumer effectiveness related to the eco-friendly packaged
product. The three variables, as discussed in the following section, mediated by
environmental behavioral intention, contribute in different ways in the Italian context and
demographic range of analysis.

5.2 Summary of findings

• Age
• Gender
• Educati
on
Attitude
towwards
behavior H1b
H1a
H2b

H5a
H5b ECCB towards BP
H2a Pro-environmental
Subjective with an eco-friendly
norm Behavioral intention H4
packaging material

H5c
H3a

H3b
Perceived
consumer
effectiveness
• Age
• Gender
• Educati
on

Figure 20: Design of the PLS-SEM structural model implemented after the regression analysis.

Concerning Hypotesis 1, thanks to the data analysis of every item, we could study the
preferences of respondents in terms of attitude towards environment.

In the study, the items chosen were taken from the study of Taufique (2018) that took the
environmental attitude items from Lee (2011).

Just like in those studies, this research shows that attitudes toward the environment have a
significantly direct and positive influence on behavioral intention as well as on ECCB in the
context of purchasing personal care products with an eco-friendly packaging material.
 67

Moreover, attitude has a significantly indirect and positive influence on ECCB via behavioral
intention.

The results obtained are in line with the original Theory of Planned Behavior model, where
attitude is considered as an important antecedent to the behavioral intention and actual
consumer behavior. In addition to this, the results are consistent with past studies on pro-
environmental consumer behavior in other contexts, where attitude is considered as a strong
predictor of such pro-environmental consumer behavior (e.g. Chan and Lau, 2002, Ramayah
et al., 2012).

Consequently, results related to Hypotesis 1 are strictly in line with previous findings arguing
that consumers with greater ecological concern are more likely to be pro-environmental in
their consumption behavior (e.g. Rex and Baumann, 2007, Wang et al., 2014). In fact, results
showed that environmental attitude is one of the most important predictors influencing
environmental behavior (e.g. Ellen, 1994, Zhao et al., 2014, Zsóka, 2008) and are also in line
with the previous findings affirming that the more closely the consumers are involved with
the environment, the more likely they are to buy green products (Alwitt and Berger 1993;
Schuhwerk and Lefkokk-Hagius 1995; Vlosky et al. 1999; Schwepker and Cornwell 1991;
Rios et al. 2006).

Even if in the studies taken into consideration in the Indian context (e.g. Verma and Chandra,
2018, Yadav and Pathak, 2016) did not demonstrate the mediating role of behavioral intention
for attitude to influence ECCB, in this study conducted in the Italian context, the mediating
role of pro-envionmental behavioral intention has been demonstrated.

Concerning Hypotesis 2, after data analysis it has been obtained some relevant information
concerning subjective norms’ influence on behavioral intention and ECCB when purchasing
personal care products with an eco-friendly packaging material.

In particular, the items chosen were taken from the study of Taufique (2018) that took the
subjective norm items from Minton and Rose (1997).

In line with Taufique’s (2018) study, subjective norm, referring to perceived social demand to
perform a specific behavior, in this case pro-environmental behavior, was found to be
insignificant when analysing direct effect on pro-environmental behavioral intention as well
as its indirect effect on ECCB via behavioral intention and also the direct effect on ECCB was
 68

not significant.

On the other side, results are in contrast with previous litterature arguing that social norm is
significant in determining pro-environmental consumer behavior (Biswas and Roy, 2015b,
Yadav and Pathak, 2016, Chen et al., 2016). Conforming to other studies, in fact, a relatively
weaker impact of subjective norm on behavioral intention and/or actual behavior was evident
(e.g. Cialdini and Trost, 1998, Trafimow and Finlay, 1996).

Probably the reason is that - as highlighted in litterature - the effect of the subjective norm or
reference group on consumer behavior can be culture-specific, where individual behavior in
collective society (e.g. Chine, India) is more likely to be influenced by others (Markus and
Kitayama, 1991).

For example, Lee and Green (1991) argued that the relative importance of subjective norm on
individuals' behavior is influenced by cultural differences in different countries. This notion
also proved to be valid in a further study on consumers' recycling behavior in rural China (a
collective society) (Tang et al., 2011). Consequently, as the sample of 223 respondents was
from Italy, results are quite in line with this approach, being Italian society is more
individualisic than collectivistic.

Concerning Hypotesis 3, Perceived Consumer Effectiveness (PCE) was found to have a

positive influence on pro-environmental behavioral intention and also on ECCB when
purchasing personal care products with an eco-friendly packaging material.

In particular, the items chosen were taken from the study of Taufique (2018) that took the
PCE items from Roberts (1996).

The results were in line with Kinnear et al. study (1974), who – as previously mentioned -
was the first one in litterature starting to use PCE as a personality variable to predict
environmental concern. They are also in line with Taufique (2018) and Roberts’ studies
(1996), who considered it as one of the attitudinal variables in predicting consumer behavior
and as a direct predictor of ECCB.

In fact, PCE was has a significantly direct and positive influence on behavioral intention as
well as on ECCB in the context of purchasing personal care products with an eco-friendly
packaging material. Moreover, PCE has a significantly indirect and positive influence on
ECCB via behavioral intention.
 69

Other studies on pro-environmental consumer behavior also confirmed the positive influence
of PCE on behavioral intention and/or actual behavior (e.g. Yadav and Pathak, 2016, Zhao et
al., 2014).

Concerning Hypoteses 4 and 5, they have been partially confirmed.

In particular, the items chosen were taken from the study of Taufique (2018) that took the
pro-environmental behavioral intention items from Minton and Rose (1997) study.

In line with those studies, pro-environmental behavioral intention positively influences and
significantly mediates the relationship between attitude towards behavior and ECCB and
between PCE and ECCB applied to the context of purchasing personal care products with an
eco-friendly packaging material.

This result is in line with previously mentioned litterature, where it has been emphasized that
it is important to include the intention variable in models for understanding green consumer
behavior, in particular some studies believe that its exclusion often contributed to the low
correlation between environmental attitudes and behaviors (Follows and Jobber, 2000). In
fact, the reasoning related to mediation effects is significant when predicting environmental
behavior within the TPB framework (e.g. Flamm, 2009, Oreg and Katz-Gerro, 2006). As
Bamberg and Möser (2007) found out in their study through a meta-analytic SEM (structural
equation modeling), eco-friendly behavioral intention mediates the influence of psycho-social
variables on ECCB.

Moreover, results are in line with the assumption of Lin and Huang (2012) arguing that when
two products are thought to be identical, eco-friendly aspects hold key decision criteria in
consumers' product evaluation.

On the other side, data analysis also showed that pro-environmental behavioral intention does
not have a significant neither positive effect in its mediation between subjective norms and
ECCB. This finding is line with subjective norms, that were found not significant in
predicting pro-environmental behavioral intention and ECCB in this context of analysis,
neither directly or indirectly through pro-evironmental behavioral intention on ECCB.

The results about the mediating role of behavioral intention between subjective norms and
ECCB were in line with Taufique’s (2018) study and in contrast with Minton and Rose’s
(1997) study, who considered it as a good predictor of intentions to act in environmentally
 70

concerned ways.

5.3 Theoretical implications

This current Master’s thesis first conducted a review of past studies on ECCB to help identify
the current state of knowledge in the subject as well as identify any gaps needing to be
explored. This Master’s thesis also analaysed previous research successful in identifying good
predictors of pro-environmental consumer behavior, applying the Theory of Planned Behavior
(TPB) (Ajzen, 1985) framework, considered as one of the most predictive persuasion theories
to understand behavioral intentions.

This research analysed both behavioral intention and actual behavior within the TPB
framework, where both direct and indirect influences of attitude towards behavior, subjective
norms and perceived consumer effectiveness (PCE) on green consumer behavior are tested.

Theory of planned behavior (TPB) has been found to be both applicable and successful
(Bamberg et al., 2003) in predicting pro-environmental behavioral intention and green
consumption behavior in a wide range of different eco-friendly contexts, related to organic
food (e.g. Scalco et al., 2017), green hotels (e.g. Verma and Chandra, 2018), energy-efficient
products (e.g. Ha and Janda, 2012), and recycling behavior (e.g. Park and Ha, 2014).

The TPB model is based on the assumption that attitudes and subjective norms influence
intentions, resulting in behaviors. Such a framework has proven to be applicable in past
studies by exploring the relationship between eco-friendly related attitudes and corresponding
behaviors (e.g. Kanchanapibul et al., 2014, Yazdanpanah and Forouzani, 2015). Moreover, in
some studies PCE has successfully been integrated in the model, with positive results both
demonstrating a direct and an indirect relationship with green consumer behavior (Taufique,
2018).

Considering those theoretical implications, this research thesis has included attitude,
subjective norms and PCE as predictors of pro-environmental behavioral intentions, by
linking those intentons to ECCB towards beauty products with an eco-friendly packaging
material in the Italian context.

5.4 Practical implications

The results of the study have as well some practical implications.

 71

First, results showed that consumers’ attitude towards environment are strongly correlated
with their pro-environmental behavioral intentions.

As suggested to be adaptable for developed markets like USA (e.g. Chan and Lau, 2002) and
Europe, marketers should implement communication plans that guide towards favorable
attitudinal changes towards ECCB.

This could happen by communicating environmentally related information about products and
practically illustrate consumers those positive outcomes deriving from the consumption of
eco-friendly products and from pro-environmental consumer behavior in general, leading to
help limit environmental harm. In particular, this kind of implementation could be applied not
only to already developed markets, but also in developing countries like India, as this country
for example has still a lot to improve with regards to environmental deterioration (Taufique &
Vaithianathan, 2018).

Second, the strong positive influence of PCE on ECCB leads to the conclusion that consumers
believe that their individual efforts will positive influence environmental protection.

This self-belief could be enhanced by showing more facts about benefits for both consumers
(e.g. health benefits) and environment (e.g. low CO2 emissions) on product packaging and
advertising messages. Moreover, in the communication strategy positive testimonials of
actual consumers who helped protect the environment by practicing ECCB could be included
(Heo and Muralidharan, 2017).

Third, if on one side, in collectivistic cultures like Indian or Chinese environments subjective
norms proved to have a relevant role in influencing pro-environmental behavioral intention
and ECCB (e.g. Chan and Lau, 2002, Tang et al., 2011), in individualistic societies subjective
norms did not demonstrate to have a significant role.

In fact, the not significant relation of subjective norms in relation with pro-environmental
behavioral intention and ECCB suggests that standardize communication policies to promote
green consumption may not be suitable in the kind of individualistic Italian culture taken into
consideration for the analysis. Given the low power of subjective norms in influencing green
consumer behavior in this kind of culture, marketers could think about building a
personalized and individualized communication plan through online and targeted advertising.
In addition to this, as it has been demonstrated in previous litterature (Taufique &
 72

Vaithianathan, 2018), standardized communication policies to promote green consumption

may not be suitable across all collective cultures, like Indian one as well, where targeting
strategies from an individualistic perspective could also lead to great results in terms of pro-
environmental consumer behavior.

 73

Conclusions, constraints of the study and avenues

for future research
This thesis has revealed some interesting findings such as the insignificant influence of
subjective norms in the referring context when related to pro-environmental behavioral
intentions and ECCB. This research thesis also showed the significant influence of PCE and
Attitude towards environment in the TPB model applied on ECCB.

On the other side, this study has some limitations that could lead to new avenues for further
research.

First, the papers selected were mainly from Science Direct database and found through
Google Scholar, which cannot cover all the litterature. Moreover, the papers analysed were
mainly up to 2021, so researchers could extend time range in the future to consider new
aspects of emerging litterature and new cosmetics & beauty care reports.

Second, a major limitation is the limited geographical coverage, so researchers could extend
the research on a broader geographical area for future studies.

Third, almost % of respondents is female and only % is male, which could be a limit since it
could have influenced results. In fact, many studies in litterature found that women are more
oriented towards pro-environmental consumer behavior. For future studies, a more equally
distributed percentage of respondents’ genders would be recommended for the data to be
more reliable.

Fourth, our research concerned green products related to the category of beauty and personal
care products with an eco-friendly packaging material and did not analyze in details green
products of other categories with an eco-friendly packaging material, such as home care or
food products.

Based on the analysis and findings of the study, there are some key research directions for the
future that will be set out below.

A. Research object

As in this kind of research green product purchase intention and ECCB were chosen as the
 74

final explanatory variables, consumer may have enhanced their environmental protection by
overestimating their awareness and sense of responsibility. This could mine to the accuracy of
questionnaire data debatable. As a solution, future researchers could select as research objects
consumers who already purchased sustainable products, consequently solving the risk of
subjectivity of answers.

B. Dynamic research

This study can only reflect psychological activities of consumers at a certain moment & via
online form. Consequenly the impact of external factors and environmental changes on
consumers, such as education and policy, are ignored.

Considering the rapid evolution of networks in today’s society, consumers’ consumption

preferences for certain products could change rapidly, leading to a difficult analysis through
the considered research methodology of questionnaire of experiment to meet the actual
research needs.

A dynamic research, through experiments in person in-store and tracked continuously could
lead to a vertical study of consumers eveolving needs in terms of green products.

This kind of research could be conducted by analysing data tracked from supermarkets known
as “Supermarket of the future”. An example is the supermarket Coop realised in
collaboration with Accenture Digital team by creating an avanguard shopping in-store
experience through interactive tables, vertical shelving and real-time data visualization.
Thanks to this, real time external factors could be included to analyse consumers face
reactions & data associated with purchases that could be tracked over a range of months or
years.

C. Cross-cultural research

At the present time, litterature is quite developed in terms of green purchase behavior, equally
distrubuted across countries, but there is quite little research in a cross-cultural context.

Considering differences in the economic conditions, culture, traditional customs, there are
quite big differences when comparing developed countries with less developed countries.
 75

Since, with globalization, consumers are moving across the world, marketers could develop
differentiated marketing strategies by analysing the same consumer under different living
environments and how this could impact green purchase behavior by conducting a cross-
cultural research.

D. Multiple products research

As previously mentioned, although beauty & personal care products are part of consumers’
daily life, it is only a side of sustainable development through eco-friendly packaging
material. Other products using this kind of new materials protecting environment could be
used to conduct further research, like food, travel, housing, furniture and other products
covering all aspects of life in the future.

E. Research on Crossing the Fixed Paradigm

Research conducted on green consumers behavior mainly focuses on behavioral decisions of

consumers following the analysis of relevant literature, which assumes that consumers are
rational people and always make decisions to maximize their benefits after weighing up
various factors or under the constraints of values or individual norms.

Consequently, the most used consumer theories are TPB, VAB and VBN. These theories pay
attention to psychological factors, they do not consider external factors and result in a limited
explaining of consumers’ purchase behavior.

ABC model, on the other side, takes external factors into the research scope and has been
widely used to overcome this barrier. Researchers could then integrate multiple theories to
explain consumers’ purchase decisions in respect of green products in the future.

Moreover, this limit in closely related to the methodology chosen. In fact, the simple linear
causality model may have limited interpretation in explaining consumer shopping
preferences, so future researchers could try to use non-linear models to explain consumer
behavior, which would lead to a better understanding of green purchase behavior.
 76

Bibliography
Aertsens, J., Verbeke, W., Mondelaers, K., Van Huylenbroeck, G. (2009). Personal Determinants
of Organic Food Consumption: A Review. British Food Journal. 111. 1140 - 1167. doi:
10.1108/00070700910992961.

Almeida, J. A., Furtado, M. A. M., Vilela, M. A. P., Meurer, V. M. (2000). Quality evaluation of
goat's milk marketing in Juiz de Fora, Minas Gerais. Revista do Instituto de Laticínios
Cândido Tostes. 315(54), 86-90.

Alwitt, L.F. & Berger, I.E. (1993). Understanding the link between environmental attitudes and
consumer product usage: Measuring the moderating role of attitude strength. Advances in
Consumer Research. 20. 189-194.

Ajzen, I. (1988). Attitudes, Personality, and Behavior. Open University Press, Milton- Keynes.

Ajzen, I. (2006). Constructing a Theory of Planned Behavior Questionnaire. 1-12. Retrieved

from: https://people.umass.edu/aizen/pdf/tpb.measurement.pdf

Ajzen I, Madden TJ. (1986). Prediction of goal-directed behavior: Attitudes, intentions and
perceived behavioral control. Journal of Experimental Social Psychology. 22(5). 453–474.
Doi: 10.1016/0022-1031(86)90045-4

Amorepacific Group. (2017). Sustainability Reports. Amorepacific. Retrieved from:

https://www.apgroup.com/sg/en/misc/sustainability-
reports/__icsFiles/afieldfile/2019/09/27/2017_AMOREPACIFIC_SR_English._10.pdf

Anderson, R.C., Hansen, E.N. (2004). The impact of environmental certification on preferences
for wood furniture: a conjoint analysis approach. Forests Products Journal. 54, 42-50.

Antil, J. (1984). Socially Responsible Consumers: Profile and Implications for Public Policy.
Journal of Macromarketing. 5. 18-39. Doi: 10.1177/027614678400500203.

Arvola, A., Vassallo, M., Dean, M., Lampila, P., Saba, A., Lähteenmäki, L. & Shepherd, R.
(2008). Predicting intentions to purchase organic food: The role of affective and moral
attitudes in the Theory of Planned Behaviour. Appetite. 50. 443-54. Doi:
10.1016/j.appet.2007.09.010.

Aveda. (n.d.). Living Aveda – Our Story – Responsible Manufacturing. Retrieved from:
https://www.aveda.com/living-aveda/responsible-manufacturing.
 77

Awan, U., Raza, M. A. (n.d.). Green consumer behavior: Empirical study of Swedish
consumer behavior. Retrieved from http://www.wseas.us/e-
library/conferences/2011/montreux/icicic/icicic14.pdf

Azzi, A., Battini, D., Persona, A., Sgarbossa F. (2012). Packaging Design: General Framework
and Research Agenda. Packaging technology and science: an international journal. 25 (8)
435-456. doi: 10.1002/pts.993

Bamberg, S., Ajzen, I. & Schmidt, P. (2003). Choice of Travel Mode in the Theory of Planned
Behavior: The Roles of Past Behavior, Habit, and Reasoned Action. Basic and Applied
Social Psychology. 25. 175-187. Doi: 10.1207/S15324834BASP2503_01.

Bamberg, S. & Möser, G. (2007). Twenty years after Hines, Hungerford, and Tomera: A new
meta-analysis of psycho-social determinants of pro-environmental behaviour. Journal of
Environmental Psychology. 27. 14-25. doi: 10.1016/j.jenvp.2006.12.002.

Bandura, A. (2021). Social foundations of thought and action: A social cognitive theory. Prentice-
Hall series in social learning theory.

Bandura, A., Adams, N., Hardy, A. & Howells, Gary. (1980). Tests of generality of self-efficacy
theory. Cognitive Therapy and Research. 4. 39-66. doi: 10.1007/BF01173354.

Barber, N., 2010. Green wine packaging: targeting environmental consumers. International
Journal of Wine Business Research. 22 (4), 423.

Baron, R. & Kenny, D. (1986). The moderator-mediator variable distinction in social

psychological research: Conceptual, strategic, and statistical considerations. Journal of
Personality and Social Psychology. 51. 1173-1182. doi: 10.1037//0022-3514.51.6.1173.

Beauty Packaging. (2017). L’Oréal USA’s Biolage Innovates in Sustainability Arena. Retrieved
from: https://www.beautypackaging.com/issues/2017-07-01/view_beauty-buzz/loreal-usas-
biolage-innovates-in-sustainability-arena/

Bei, L. and Simpson, E. M. (1995). The Determinants of Consumers' Purchase Decisions For
Recycled Products: an Application of Acquisition-Transaction Utility Theory. Advances in
Consumer Research. Association for Consumer Research. 22, 257-261.

Berger, I., & Corbin, R. (1992). Perceived Consumer Effectiveness and Faith in Others as
Moderators of Environmentally Responsible Behaviors. Journal of Public Policy &
Marketing, 11(2), 79-89. Retrieved from http://www.jstor.org/stable/30000276
 78

Biswas, A. & Roy, M. (2015b). Leveraging factors for sustained green consumption behavior
based on consumption value perceptions: Testing the structural model. Journal of Cleaner
Production. 95, 332-340. doi: 10.1016/j,jclepro.2015.02.042.

Bloch, P.H., Brunel, F.F., Arnold, T.J. (2003). Individual differences in the centrality of visual
product aesthetics: concept and measurement. Journal of Consumer Research. 29 (4), 551-
565.

Boesen, S., Bey, N., Niero, M. (2019). Environmental sustainability of liquid food packaging: is
there a gap between Danish consumers’ perception and learnings from life cycle
assessment? Journal of Cleaner Production. 210, 193-1206.

Bom, A., Jorge, J., Ribeiro, H.M., Marto, J. (2019). A step forward on sustainability in the
cosmetics industry: A review. Journal of Cleaner Production. 225. Doi:
10.1016/j.jclepro.2019.03.255.

Boulstridge, E., Carrigan, M. (2000). Do consumers really care about corporate responsibility?
Highlighting the attitude-behavior gap? Journal of Communication Management. 4(4), 355-
368.

Brécard, D., Boubaker, H., Sterenn, L., Perraudeau, Y., Salladarré, F. (2009). Determinants of
demand for green products: An application to eco-label demand for fish in Europe.
Ecological Economics. 69. 115-125. Doi: 10.1016/j.ecolecon.2009.07.017.

Bruntland, G. H. (1987). Report of the World Commission on Environment and Development,

Our Common Future.

Bucchetti, V. (2015). Icone alimentari: il packaging in un secolo di trasformazioni. IS/Design

Storia e Ricerche (5).
https://re.public.polimi.it/retrieve/handle/11311/979945/421003/Icone%20alimentariIl%20p
ackaging%20in%20un%20secolo%20di%20trasformazioni_11311-979945_Bucchetti.pdf

Cai, Z., Aguilar, F.X. (2013a). Consumer stated purchasing preferences and corporate social
responsibility in the wood products industry: a conjoint analysis in the U.S. and China.
Ecological Economics. 95. 118–127. Doi: 10.1016/j.ecolecon.2013.08.017.

Carus, M., Eder, A., Dammer, L., Korte, H., Scholz, L., Essel, R., Breitmayer, E., (2014). Wood-
Plastic Composites (WPC) and Natural Fibre Composites (NFC): European and Global
Markets and Future Trends.
 79

Caruso, E. (2005). Comunico, quindi esisto. L’importanza della comunicazione per la crescita
dell’impresa. Milano: Tecniche nuove.

Caufield, D.F., Clemons, C., Jacobson, R.E., Rowell, R.M. (2005). Wood thermoplastic
composites. In: Rowell, R.M. (Ed.), Handbook of Wood Chemistry, Wood Com- posites.
Taylor and Francis, Boca Raton, pp. 365e378.

Chan, R. Y. K. (1999). Environmental Attitudes and Behavior of Consumers in China: Survey

Findings and Implications. Journal of International Consumer Marketing, 11(4), 25-52. Doi:
10.1300/J046v11n04_03

Chan, T.S. (1996) Concerns for environmental issues and consumer purchase preferences: A two-
country study. Journal of International Consumer Marketing 9 (1), 43–55. Doi:
10.1300/J046v09n01_04

Chan, R. Y. K. & Lau, L. B. Y. (2002). Explaining Green Purchasing Behavior: A Cross-Cultural

Study on American and Chinese Consumers. Journal of International Consumer Marketing.
14. 9-40. Doi: 10.1300/J046v14n02_02

Chekima, B., Chekima, S., Wafa, S. A., Igau, O. A., Laison, S. & Sondoh, Jr. (2016). Sustainable
consumption: The effects of knowledge, cultural values, environmental advertising, and
demographics. International Journal of Sustainable Development & World Ecology, 23(2),
210–220. Doi: 10.1080/13504509.2015.1114043

Chin, W.W., Newsted, P.R. (1999). Structural equation modeling analysis with small samples
using partial least squares. Statistical Strategies for Small Sample Research. 307-341.

Chinnici, G., D’Amico, M., Pecorino, B. (2002). A Multivariate Statistical Analysis on the
Consumers of Organic Products. British Food Journal. 104. 187-199. Doi:
10.1108/00070700210425651.

Choi, S., Kim, Y. (2005). Antecedents of green purchase behavior: An examination of

collectivism, environmental concern, and PCE. Advances in Consumer Research. 32. 592-
599.

Chung, HL., Lin, YS. & Hu, JL. (2013). Bundling strategy and product differentiation. J Econ
108, 207–229. doi: 10.1007/s00712-012-0265-9.

Cialdini, R.B., Trost, M.R. (1998). Social influence: social norms, conformity and compliance. In:
Gilbert, D.T., Fiske, S.T., Lindzey, G. (Eds.), The Handbook of Social Psychology.
 80

McGraw-Hill, Boston, 151-192.

Cleveland, M., Kalamas, M. & Laroche, M. (2012). It’s Not Easy Being Green”: Exploring Green
Creeds, Green Deeds, and Environmental Locus of Control. Psychology and Marketing. 29.
293-305. doi: 10.1002/mar.20522.

Colombo, F. (2005). Atlante della comunicazione. Hoepli Milano, Italy.

Coombs Obrien, J., Torrente-Murciano, L., Mattia, D., Scott J.L. (2017). Continuous production
of cellulose microbeads via membrane emulsification ACS Sustainable Chem. Eng. 5, 5931-
5939. Doi: 10.1021/acssuschemeng.7b00662

Cosmetics Europe, The Personal Care Association (2012b). Good sustainability Practice (GSP)
for the Cosmetics Industry. Retrieved from:
https://www.cosmeticseurope.eu/files/4214/6521/4452/GSP_Brochure.pdf

Cosmetics Europe, The Personal Care Association (2017a). Socio-economic Development and
Environmental Sustainability: the European Cosmetics Industry’s Contribution. Retrieved
from: https://www.cosmeticseurope.eu/files/8614/9738/2777/CE_Socio-
economic_development_and_environmental_sustainability_report_2017.pdf

Cosmetics Europe – The Personal Care Association. (2018a). Over 97% of Plastic Microbeads
Already Phased Out from Cosmetics. https://www.cosmeticseurope.eu/news-events/over-97-
plastic-microbeads-already-phased-out-cosmetics-cosmetics-europe-announces

Cosmetics Europe, The Personal Care Association (2018b). Socio-economic Contribution of the
European Cosmetics Industry. Retrieved from:
https://cosmeticseurope.eu/files/7915/2905/6490/CE_Socio_Economic_Report_2018.pdf

Crabbé, A., Jacobs, R., Hoof, V.V., Bergmans, A. and Acker, K.V. (2013). Transition towards
sustainable material innovation: evidence and evaluation of the Flemish case. Journal of
Cleaner Production. 56, 63–72. doi: 10.1016/j.jclepro.2012.01.023.

Cristini, G., D’Onofrio, C., Fornari, E. (2008). Il packaging come strumento di comunicazione del
valore della marca privata. Mercati e competitività, 2. Franco Angeli Editore.

Csorba, L. M., & Boglea, V. A. (2011). Sustainable cosmetics: a major instrument in protecting
the consumer’s interest. Regional and Business Studies, 3(1 Suppl.), 167–176. Retrieved
from https://journal.uni-mate.hu/index.php/rbs/article/view/455.

Cunningham S. From Cultural to Creative Industries: Theory, Industry and Policy Implications.
 81

(2002). Media International Australia. 102(1), 54-65. doi:

10.1177/1329878X0210200107

Culliney, K. (2019). The Sustainable Consumer: Activism, Transparency and Frugal Living. Most
Relevant Future Trends. Cosmetics Design-Europe. Retrieved from:
https://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/Article/2019/09/10/Sustainable-consumer-
behaviour-trends-for-brands-to-watch-from-Euromonitor-International

Culliney K. (2020). L’Oréal launches first paper-based tubes under La Roche-Posay brand.
Retrieved from: https://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/Article/2020/06/04/L-Oreal-
launches-eco-responsible-paper-based-La-Roche-Posay-sunscreen-tubes-with-Albea

Culliney K. (2020). L’Oréal to launch plastic bottle made from captured carbon by 2024.
Retrieved from: https://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/Article/2020/10/27/L-Oreal-to-
launch-carbon-capture-plastic-bottle-by-2024-through-Total-LanzaTech-partnerhsip

Davies, I.A., Gutsche, S. (2016). Consumer motivations for mainstream ‘ethical’ consumption.
Eur. J. Market. 50 (7/8), 1326e1347. Doi: 10.1108/EJM-11-2015-0795

Dejan, D. (2017). Touching Emotions. Brand Packaging. Tactile packaging embraces shoppers’
sense of value. Packaging strategies journal. Retrieved from:
http://www.brandpackaging.com/articles/85977-touching-emotions

Deutskens, E., De Ruyter, K., Wetzels, M. & Oosterveld, P. (2004). Response Rate and Response
Quality of Internet-Based Surveys: An Experimental Study. Marketing Letters. 15. 21-36.
doi: 10.1023/B:MARK.0000021968.86465.00.

Diamantopoulos, A., Schlegelmilch, B.B., Sinkovics, R.R. and Bohlen, G.M. (2003). Can socio-
demographics still play a role in profiling green consumers? A review of the evidence and
an empirical investigation. Journal of Business Research 56 (6): 465–480. Doi:
10.1016/S0148-2963(01)00241-7

Do Paço, A., Raposo, M. and Walter, F.L. (2009). Identifying the green consumer: A
segmentation study. Journal of Targeting, Measurement and Analysis for Marketing 17 (1):
17–25.

Eder, A., Carus, M. (2013). Global Trends in Wood-Plastic Composites (WPC). Bioplastics
Magazine 8:16–17. Retrieved from: https://renewable-carbon.eu/news/media/news-
images/20130905-01/WPC_bioplasticsMAGAZINE_1304.pdf
 82

Elgar, E. (2006). Sustainable development indicators in ecological economics. (Philip Lawn

edition). Edward Elgar Publishing Limited.

Elkington, J., (2004). Enter the triple bottom line. In: Henriques, A., Richardson, J. (Eds.). The
Triple Bottom Line, Does It All Add up? Assessing the Sustainability of Business and CSR.
Earths can Publications Ltd., London, 1-16. Doi: 10.1108/13598540910941948

Elkington, J. (1994). Towards the sustainable corporation: Win–win-win business strategies for
sustainable development. California Management Review, 90– 100. Doi: 10.2307/41165746

Ellen, P. (1994). Do We Know What We Need to Know? Objective and Subjective Knowledge
Effects on Pro-Ecological Behaviors. Journal of Business Research. 30. 43-52. doi:
10.1016/0148-2963(94)90067-1.

Ellen, P., Wiener, J. & Cobb-Walgren, C. (1991). The Role of Perceived Consumer Effectiveness
in Motivating Environmentally Conscious Behaviors. Journal of Public Policy & Marketing.
doi: 10. 102-117. 10.1177/074391569101000206.

Essoussi, L.H., Linton, J.D. (2010). New or recycled products: how much are consumers willing
to pay? Journal of Consumer Marketing. 27, 458-468. Doi: 10.1108/07363761011063358

Feng, C. (2016). Sustainable Innovation in the Cosmetic Industry - Obstacles, Contributing

Factors, and Strategies. Faculty of University of Minnesota. Retrieved from:
https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/211349124.pdf

Fernando, M., Hennayake, Y., (2017). Study of Consumer Attitudes towards Green Cosmetic
Products and its impact on Consumer Purchase Intention.

Fernqvist, F., Olsson, A., Spendrup, S. (2015). What’s in it for me? Food packaging and
consumer responses, a focus group study. Br. Food J. 117 (3), 1122e1135. Doi:
10.1108/BFJ-08-2013-0224

Ferraresi, M. (2003). Il packaging. Oggetto e comunicazione. Impresa, comunicazione, mercato,

(30). Franco Angeli. Third edition.

Fisher, C., Bashyal, S., Bachman B. (2012). Demographic impacts on environmentally friendly
purchase behavior. Journal of Targeting, Measurement and Analysis for Marketing. 20,
172–184. doi:10.1057/jt.2012.13.

Flamm, B. (2009). The impacts of environmental knowledge and attitudes on vehicle ownership
and use. Transportation Research, Part D: Transport and Environment. 14(4), 272-279. Doi:
 83

10.1016/j.trd.2009.02.003

Fleith de Medeiros J., Duarte Ribeiro J. L., Nogueira Cortimiglia M. (2016). Influence of
perceived value on purchasing decisions of green products in Brazil. Journal of Cleaner
Production. 110, 158-169. Doi: 10.1016/j.jclepro.2015.07.100

Florenthal, B., Arling, P. (2011). Do Green Lifestyle Consumers Appreciate Low Involvement
Green Products? 222. Retrieved from: http://www.mmaglobal.org/publications/MMJ/MMJ-
Issues/2011-Fall/MMJ-2011-Fall-Vol21-Issue2-Florenthal-Arling-pp35-45.pdf

Follows, S.B. & Jobber, D. (2000). Environmentally responsible purchase behavior: a test of a
consumer model. European Journal of Marketing. 34. 723-746. Doi:
10.1108/03090560010322009

Fraj, E., Martinez, E. (2007). Ecological consumer behaviour: an empirical analysis.

International Journal of Consumer Studies, 31(1), 26-33. Doi: 10.1111/j.1470-
6431.2006.00565.x

García-Arca, J., Gonzalez-Portela Garrido, A. T. & Prado, P. (2017). Sustainable Packaging

Logistics. The link between Sustainability and Competitiveness in Supply Chains.
Sustainability. 9(7):1098. Doi: 10.3390/su9071098.

Ginsberg, J.M., Bloom, P.N. (2004). Choosing the right green marketing strategy. MIT Slogan
Manag. Rev. 46, 79-88.

Gleim, Mark & Smith, Jeffery & Andrews, Demetra & Cronin. Jr, J.. (2013). Against the Green:
A Multi-method Examination of the Barriers to Green Consumption. Journal of Retailing.
89. 44–61. 10.1016/j.jretai.2012.10.001.

Glew, D., & Lovett, P. N. (2014). Life cycle analysis of shea butter use in cosmetics: from
parklands to product, low carbon opportunities. Journal of Cleaner Production, 68, 73-80.
Doi: 10.1016/j.jclepro.2013.12.085

Goldman Sachs. (2016). The Asian Consumer: India consumer close-up. Equity research.
Retrieved from: https://www.goldmansachs.com/insights/pages/macroeconomic-insights-
folder/rise-of-the-india-consumer/report.pdf

Golfarelli, M. & Rizzi, S. (2011). Data warehouse testing: A prototype-based methodology.

Information and Software Technology, 53 (11), 1183-1198.
doi:10.1016/j.infsof.2011.04.002.
 84

Gracia, A., de Magistris, T. (2007). Organic food product purchase behaviour: A pilot study for
urban consumers in the South of Italy. Spanish journal of agricultural research. 5(4), 439-
451. 10.5424/sjar/2007054-5356.

Grimmer, M., Bingham, T. (2013). Company environmental performance and consumer purchase
intentions. Journal of Business Research, 66(10), 1945-1953. Doi:
10.1016/j.jbusres.2013.02.017

Grunert, S. C., Kristensen, K. (1990). Factors influencing the demand for organically produced
foods: Theoretical notes and project outline. ØFP Working paper no. 1, Series H nr. 50.
Aarhus: The Aarhus School of Business. Retrieved from:
https://www.cabdirect.org/cabdirect/abstract/19921898990

Guendelman, S., Medeiros, S., Rampes, H. (2017). Mindfulness and Emotion Regulation: Insights
from Neurobiological, Psychological, and Clinical Studies. Frontiers in Psychology Journal.
8, doi: 10.3389/fpsyg.2017.00220

Haider A, Eder A. (2010). Markets, Applications, and processes for wood polymer composites
(WPCs) in Europe. 1st international conference on processing technologies for the forest and
bio-based products industries, Salzburg/Kuchl, Austria; p. 146–154. Retrieved from:
http://conference.fh-salzburg.ac.at/fileadmin/files/documents/PTF_BPI_2010.pdf#page=151

Ha, H., & Janda, S. (2012). Predicting consumer intentions to purchase energy-efficient products.
Journal of Consumer Marketing, 29, 461-469. doi: 10.1007/978-3-319-50008-9_249.

Hair, J.F., Black, W.C., Babin, B.J., Anderson, R.E., Tatham, R.L. (2006). Multivariate Data
Analysis, sixth ed. Pearson Prentice Hall, Upper Saddle River, NJ.

Haney, M. W., Christensen, M. P., Milojkovic, P., Rieve, J., Ekman, J., Chandramani, P.,
Kiamilev, F., Liu, Y., Hibbs-Brenner, M., Strzelecka, E., Fokken, G., Vickberg, M., &
Gilbert, B. (1999). FAST-Net optical interconnection prototype characterization. 1/-. Paper
presented at InterPACK '99: Pacific RIM/ASME International Intersociety Electronics
Photonic Packaging Conference 'Advances in Electronic Packaging, Maui, HI, USA.

Heo, J. & Muralidharan, S. (2017). What triggers young Millennials to purchase eco-friendly
products? The interrelationships among knowledge, perceived consumer effectiveness, and
environmental concern. Journal of Market Communication. doi:
10.1080/13527266.2017.1303623.

Hinkin, T. (1998). A Brief Tutorial on the Development of Measures for Use in Survey
 85

Questionnaires. Organizational Research Methods. 1. 104-121. doi:

10.1177/109442819800100106.

Hirschman, E., (1980). Innovativeness, novelty seeking, and consumer creativity. J. Consumer
Res. Interdiscip. Q. 7 (3), 283e295. Doi: 10.1086/208816

Hume, M. (2010). Compassion without action: examining the young consumers consumption and
attitude to sustainable consumption. Journal of World Business. 45 (4), 385-394. Doi:
10.1016/j.jwb.2009.08.007

Hsu, C.H., Kang, S.K., Lam, T. (2006). Reference group influences among Chinese travelers.
Journal of Travel Research. 44. 474-484. Doi: 10.1177/0047287505282951.

Inglot (n.a.). Retrieved from: https://inglotfrance.com/freedom-system

Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (2014). AR5 Synthesis report: Climate Change 2014.
Retrieved from: https://www.ipcc.ch/report/ar5/syr/

Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change. (2016). Objectives and Vision - IPCC Special
Report on the impact of global warming of 1.5 °C above pre-industrial levels and
greenhouse gas emission pathways. Retrieved from: https://www.ipcc.ch/sr15/

Iosifidi, M. (2016). Environmental awareness, consumption, and labor supply: Empirical

evidence from household survey data. Ecological Economics. 129. 1-11. Doi:
10.1016/j.ecolecon.2016.05.007.

ISO. (2007). ISO 22716:2007 Cosmetics - Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP) - Guidelines on
Good Manufacturing Practices. Retrieved from:
https://www.iso.org/standard/36437.html

Jager, I., de Koning, P., Bost, T., Denys ,D., Vulink, N. (2020). Misophonia: Phenomenology,
comorbidity and demographics in a large sample. PLOS ONE. 15(4): e0231390. doi:
10.1371/journal.pone.0231390

Jansson, J. (2011). Consumer eco-innovation adoption: assessing attitudinal factors and

perceived product characteristics. Business strategy and the environment journal. 20(3),
192-210. doi:10.1002/bse.690

Jonsson, O., Lindberg, S., Roos, A., Hugosson, M., Lindstrom, M. (2008). Consumer perceptions
and preferences on solid wood, wood-based panels, and compos- ites: a repertory grid
study. Wood Fiber Science. 40(4), 663-678.
 86

Kai, C., , Haokai, L. (2016). Factors Affecting Consumers’ Green Commuting. EURASIA J.
Math. Sci. Technol. Educ. 12, 527–538. Doi: 10.12973/iser.2016.2001a

Kalisvaart, S.H. and van der Horst, T.J.J. (1995). Implementing ecological product design. World
Class Design to Manufacture, 2 (6), 21-30. doi:10.1108/09642369310104264

Kanchanapibul, M., Lacka, E., Wang, X., Chan, H.K. (2014). An empirical investigation of green
purchase behavior among the young generation. Journal of Cleaner Production. 66, 528-
536. Doi: 10.1016/j.jclepro.2013.10.062

Karana, E. (2012). Characterization of ‘natural’ and ‘high-quality’ materials to improve

perception of bio-plastics. Journal of Cleaner Production. 37, 316-325. doi:
10.1016/j.jclepro.2012.07.034.

Karsaklian. (2008). Consumer behavior. (Second Edition). Ed. São Paulo: Atlas.

Kauppinen-Räisänen, H. (2014). Strategic use of colour in brand packaging. Packaging

Technology and Science Journal. 27(8). 663-676. doi: 10.1002/pts.2061.

Kemp, R., Pearson, P. (2007). Measuring eco-innovation. Final Report MEI Project about
Measuring Eco-Innovation. UM-MERIT. Retrieved from:
https://www.oecd.org/env/consumption-innovation/43960830.pdf

Kikuchi-Uehara, E., Nakatani, J., Hirao, M. (2016). Analysis of factors influencing consumers’
proenvironmental behavior based on life cycle thinking. Part II: Trust model of
environmental information. Journal of Cleaner Production. 125. Doi:
10.1016/j.jclepro.2016.03.011.

Kim, Y., Sejung, C. (2005). Antecedents of green purchase behavior: An examination of

collectivism, environmental concern, and PCE. ACR North American Advances. 32. 592-
599.

Kinnear, T.C., James, C.T., Sahrudin, A.A. (1974). Ecologically concerned consumers: Who are
they? Journal of Marketing. 38(2), 20-24. Doi: 10.2307/1250192

Knoll, L.B., Sharma, S., Denfeld, B.A., Flaim, G., Hori, Y., Magnuson, J. J., Straile D.,
Weyhenmeyer, G.A. (2019) Consequences of lake and river ice loss on cultural ecosystem
services. Limnology and Oceanography Letters. 4, 119–131.

Koenig-Lewis, N., Palmer, A., Dermody, J., Urbye, A. (2014). Consumers’ evaluations of
ecological packaging - rational and emotional approaches. Journal of Environmental
 87

Psychology. 37, 94-105. Doi: 10.1016/j.jenvp.2013.11.009

Kollmuss, A. & Agyeman, J. (2002). Mind the Gap: Why Do People Act Environmentally and
What Are the Barriers to Pro-Environmental Behavior? Environmental Education Research.
8. 239-260. Doi: 10.1080/13504620220145401.

Koos, S. (2011). Varieties of Environmental Labelling, Market Structures, and Sustainable

Consumption Across Europe: A Comparative Analysis of Organizational and Market Supply
Determinants of Environmental-Labelled Goods. Journal of Consumer Policy, 34, issue 1, p.
127-151. Doi: 10.1007/s10603-010-9153-2

Kotler P. (2000). Marketing Management: The millennium edition. Saddle River, New Jersey:
Pearson.

Kotler P., Armstrong G. (1993). Principles of Marketing. (Sixth edition). Saddle River, New
Jersey: Prentice Hall.

Kotler, P., Keller, K. L. (2015). A Framework for Marketing Management. Pearson Global
Edition.

Krauter, J. (2018). In-cosmetics 2018: Evonik Focuses on Naturalness, Sustainability and

Uncompromising Performance.

Kronthal-Sacco R, Van Holt T, Atz U, Whelan T. (2020). Sustainable Purchasing Patterns and
Consumer Responsiveness to Sustainability Marketing Messages. J Sustain Res.
2(2):e200016. Doi:10.20900/jsr20200016

Krystallis, A., Chryssohoidis, G. (2005). Consumers' willingness to pay for organic food: factors
that affect it and variation per organic product type. British Food Journal. 107, 320e343.
Doi: 10.1108/00070700510596901

Laforet, S. (2011). Brand names on packaging and their impact on purchase preference. J.
Consum. Behav. 10 (1), 8e30. Doi: 10.1002/cb.343

Lange, J. & Wyser, Y. (2003). Recent Innovations in Barrier Technologies for Plastic Packaging
- A Review. Packaging Technology and Science. 16. 149-158. 10.1002/pts.621.

Laroche, M., Bergeron, J., Barbaro-Forleo, G. (2001). Targeting consumers who are willing to
pay more for environmentally friendly products. Journal of Consumer Marketing. 18, 503-
520. Doi: 10.1108/EUM0000000006155
 88

Laureti, T., Benedetti, I. (2017). Exploring pro-environmental food purchasing behaviour: An

empirical analysis of Italian consumers. Journal of cleaner production. 172. Doi:
10.1016/j.jclepro.2017.11.086

Lee, K. (2011). The role of media exposure, social exposure and biospheric value orientation in
the environmental attitude-intention-behavior model in adolescents. Journal of
Environmental Psychology. 31, 301-308. doi: 10.1016/j.jenvp.2011.08.004.

Lee, C. & Green, R. (1991). Cross-Cultural Examination of the Fishbein Behavioral Intensions
Model. Journal of International Business Studies. 22, 289-305. doi:
10.1057/palgrave.jibs.8490304.

Leire, C., Thidell, Å. (2005). Product-related environmental information to guide consumer

purchases–a review and analysis of research on perceptions, understanding and use among
nordic consumers. Journal of Cleaner Production. 13(10), 1061-1070. Doi:
10.1016/j.jclepro.2004.12.004

Lewis, H., Stanley, H. (2012). Marketing and communicating sustainability. In: Verghese, K.,
Lewis, H., Fitzpartrick, L. (Eds.), Packing for Sustainability. Springer-Verlag London
Limited 2012. doi: 0.1007/978-0-85729- 988-8_3

Lin, C., Wu, H. & Chang, Y. (2011). The critical factors impact on online customer satisfaction.
Procedia CS. 3, 276-281. Doi:10.1016/j.procs.2010.12.047.

Lin, P., Huang, Y. (2012). The Influence Factors on Choice Behavior Regarding Green Products
Based on the Theory of Consumption Values. Journal of Cleaner Production. 22. 11-18. doi:
10.1016/j.jclepro.2011.10.002.

Lindh, H., Olsson, A., Williams, H. (2016a). Consumer perceptions of food packaging:
contributing to or counteracting environmentally sustainable development? Packaging
Technology and Science Journal. 29, 3-23. Doi: 0.1002/pts.2184

Lindh, H., Williams, H., Olsson, A., Wikstrom, F. (2016b). Elucidating the indirect €
contributions of packaging to sustainable development: a terminology of packaging
functions and features. Packaging Technology and Science Journal. 29 (4e5), 225-246. Doi:
10.1002/pts.2197

Liobikiene, G., & Bernatoniene, J. (2017). Why Determinants of Green Purchase Cannot be
Treated Equally? The Case of Green Cosmetics: Literature Review. Journal of Cleaner
Production, 162, 109-120. Doi: 10.1016/j.jclepro.2017.05.204
 89

Lofthouse, V.A., Bhamra, T.A., Trimingham, R.L. (2009). Investigating customer perceptions of
refillable packaging and assessing business drivers and barriers to their use. Packaging
Technology and Science Journal. 22, 335e348. Doi: 10.1002/pts.857

Lohmoller, J.B.. (1988). The PLS Program System: Latent Variables Path Analysis with Partial
Least Squares Estimation. Multivariate Behavioral Research. 21. 125-127. Doi:
10.1207/s15327906mbr2301_7

L’Oréal. (n.a.). For more sustainable packaging. Retrieved from:

https://www.loreal.com/en/articles/sharing-beauty-with-all/2020/03/10/10/25/for-more-
sustainable-packaging-1/

L’Oréal. (n.a.). MY WAY by Giorgio Armani, between femininity and responsibility. Retrieved
from: https://www.loreal.com/en/articles/brands/my-way-armani/

L’Oréal. (n.a.). Seed Phytonutrients: Farmer Fresh and Seed Obsessed. Retrieved from:
https://www.loreal.com/en/news/brands/seed-phytonutrients-farmer-fresh-and-
seed-obsessed/

L’Oréal. (n.a.). Plastic packaging policy. Retrieved from:

https://www.loreal.com/en/articles/sharing-beauty-with-all/plastic-packaging-
policy/

L’Oreal. (2016). Sharing Beauty with All: the L’Oreal Sustainability Commitment. Retrieved
from: https://www.loreal-finance.com/system/files/2019-
09/LOreal_2016_Progress_Report.pdf

L’Oréal. (2017a). L’Oréal in Figures. Retrieved from https://www.loreal.com/keyfigures

L’Oréal. (2017b). Progress Report: Sharing Beauty With All. Retrieved from
https://www.loreal.com/loreal-sharingbeauty-with-all

L’Oréal. (2018). L’Oréal. Retrieved from https://www.loreal-finance.com/eng/annual-report

L’Oréal. (2011). L’Oréal Sustainable Development Report 2011. L’Oréal Sustainability

Factsheet, Packaging and sustainable development, June 2010. Retrieved from:
https://www.loreal-finance.com/system/files/2019-09/LOREAL_Rapport-Developpement-
Durable-2011.pdf

Luchs, M.G., Naylor, R.W., Irwin, J.R., Raghunathan, R. (2010). The sustainability liability:
potential negative effects of ethicality on product preference. Journal of Marketing. 74,
 90

18e31. doi: 10.1509/jmkg.74.5.18

M.A.C.(n.a.). Back 2 M.A.C. Retrieved from:

https://www.maccosmetics.com/giving_back/printable_form.tmpl

Magnier, L., Crie, D. (2015). Communicating packaging eco-friendliness: an exploration of

consumers’ perceptions of eco-designed packaging. International Journal of Retail &
Distribution Management, 43, 350-366. Doi: 10.1108/ijrdm-04-2014-0048

Magnier, L. & Schoormans, J. (2015). Consumer reactions to sustainable packaging: The

interplay of visual appearance, verbal claim and environmental concern. Journal of
Environmental Psychology. 44. doi: 10.1016/j.jenvp.2015.09.005.

Mahler, D., Aurik, J., Hembert, E., Schrieber, K. (2012). Sustainability - a product life-cycle
approach. Supply Chain Manag. Rev. 16, 50.

Makeower, J. (2009) Strategies for the Green Economy: Opportunities and Challenges in the New
World of Business. New York: McGraw-Hill.

Smurfit Kappa Desk Research.. (2014) Marketing on the shelf. Exacty how in control are you?
Retrieved from: https://www.smurfitkappa.com/cz/-/m/files/product-
downloads/services/shopper_marketing_whitepaper_en.pdf?rev=-1

Markus, H.R., Kitayama, S. (1991). Culture and the self: implications for cognition, emotion, and
motivation. Psychological Review. 98. 224-253. Doi: 10.1037/0033-295X.98.2.224.

Martinho, G., Pires, A., Portela, G., Fonseca, M. (2015). Factors affecting consumers’ choices
concerning sustainable packaging during product purchase and recycling. Resources
Conservation and Recycling Journal. 103, 58e68. Doi: 10.1016/j.resconrec.2015.07.012

Mathieson, K. (1991). Predicting user intentions: Comparing the technology acceptance model
with the theory of planned behavior. Information Systems Research, 2, 173–191. Doi:
10.1287/isre.2.3.173

Matthews, B., & Ross, L. (2010). Research Methods: A practical guide for the social sciences.
Edinburgh: Pearson Education Ltd.

Meyer, R. and Liebe, U. (2010) Are the affluent prepared to pay for the planet? Explaining
willingness to pay for public and quasi-private environmental goods in Switzerland.
Population and Environment 32 (1): 42–65. Doi: 10.1007/s11111-010-0116-y
 91

Minton, A. & Rose, R. (1997). The Effects of Environmental Concern on Environmentally

Friendly Consumer Behavior: An Exploratory Study. Journal of Business Research. 40. 37-
48. doi: 10.1016/S0148-2963(96)00209-3.

Mishra, P., Jain, T., Motiani, M. (2017). Have green, pay more: an empirical investigation of
consumer’s attitude towards green packaging in an emerging economy. India studies in
business and economics. In: Essays on Sustainability and Management. Springer Singapore,
125-150. Doi: 10.1007/978-981-10-3123-6_7.

Mohr, L. A., Eroglu, D., Scholder Ellen, P. (1998). The Development and Testing of a Measure of
Skepticism Toward Environmental Claims in Marketers' Communications. The Journal of
consumer affairs. 32, 30-55. doi:10.1111/j.1745-6606.1998.tb00399.x

Morelli M. (2002). L’immagine dell’ Impresa, Le leve strategiche della comunicazione

nell’epoca del cambiamento. Milano: Franco Angeli.

Moser, A.K. (2015). Thinking green, buying green? Drivers of pro-environmental purchasing
behavior. Journal of Consumer Marketing. 32, 167–175. Doi: 10.1108/JCM-10-2014-1179

Nastu, P. (2008). Older Demographics Biggest Users of Green Products. Environmental leader.
Retrieved from: https://www.environmentalleader.com/2008/09/older-demographics-
biggest-users-of-green-products/

Nguyen, A.T., Parker, L., Brennan, L., Lockrey, S. (2020). A consumer definition of eco-friendly
packaging. Journal of Cleaner Production. 252, 11-11. Doi: 10.1016/j.jclepro.2019.119792

Norman, D.A. (2005). Emotional Design: Why We Love (Or Hate) Everyday Things. New York:
Basic Books.

Oreg, S., Katz-Gerro, T. (2006). Predicting proenvironmental behavior cross-nationally: Values,

the Theory of Planned Behavior, and Value-Belief-Norm Theory. Environment and
Behavior. 38, 462-483. Doi: 10.1177/0013916505286012

Osburg, V., Strack, M. & Toporowski, W. (2015). Consumer acceptance of Wood-Polymer

Composites: A conjoint analytical approach with a focus on innovative and environmentally
concerned consumers. Journal of Cleaner Production. 110, 180-190. doi:
10.1016/j.jclepro.2015.04.086.

Paço, A., Alves, H., Shiel, C., Filho, W. (2013). Development of a green consumer behaviour
model. International Journal of Consumer Studies. 37. 10.1111/ijcs.12009.
 92

Palombini, F.L., Cidade, M.K., de Jacques, J.J. (2017). How sustainable is organic packaging? A
design method for recyclability assessment via a social perspective: a case study of Porto
Alegre city (Brazil). Journal of Cleaner Production. 142, 2593-2605. Doi:
10.1016/j.jclepro.2016.11.016

Park, J., Ha, S. (2014). Understanding consumer recycling behavior: combining the theory of
planned behavior and the norm activation model. Family and Consumer Sciences Research
Journal. 42. 278-291. Doi: 10.1111/fcsr.12061.

Peattie, K. (2010). Green Consumption: Behavior and Norms. Annual Review of Environment
and Resources. 35(1), 195-228. doi: 10.1146/annurev-environ-032609-094328

Perkins, H. (2003). The social norms approach to preventing school and college age substance
abuse: A handbook for educators, counselors, and clinicians. San Francisco: Jossey-Bass.

Pícha, K., Navratil, J. (2019). The factors of lifestyle of health and sustainability influencing pro-
environmental buying behaviour. Journal of Cleaner Production. 234, 233-241. Doi:
10.1016/j.jclepro.2019.06.072

Polonsky, M.J., Vocino, A., Grau, S.L., Garma, R., Ferdous, A.S. (2012). The impact of general
and carbon-related environmental knowledge on attitudes and behavior of US consumers.
Journal of Marketing Management. 28(3-4), 238-263. Doi: 10.1080/0267257X.2012.659279

Prakash, G., Pathak, P. (2017). Intention to buy eco-packaged products among young consumers
in India: a study on developing nation. Journal of Cleaner Production. 141, 385-393. Doi:
10.1016/j.jclepro.2016.09.116

Ramayah, T., Lee, J.W.C., Lim, S. (2012). Sustaining the environment through recycling: an
empirical study. Journal of environmental management. 102. 141-147. doi:
10.1016/j.jenvman.2012.02.025.

Reimann, M., Zaichkowsky, J., Neuhaus, C., Bender, T., Weber, B. (2010). Aesthetic package
design: a behavioural, neural and psychological investigation. Journal of Consumer
Psychology. 20 (4), 431-441. Doi: 10.1016/j.jcps.2010.06.009

Reinartz, W., Haenlein, M., Henseler, J. (2009). An empirical comparison of the efficacy of
covariance-based and variance-based SEM. International Journal of Research in Marketing.
26. 332-344. doi: 10.1016/j.ijresmar.2009.08.001.

Rex, E. & Baumann, H. (2007). Beyond ecolabels: what green marketing can learn from
 93

conventional marketing. Journal of Cleaner Production. 15. 567-576. Doi:

10.1016/j.jclepro.2006.05.013.

Rezai G, Mohamed, Z., Shamsudin MN. (2011). Malaysian consumer’s perception towards
purchasing organically produces vegetable. Proceedings of the 2nd International Conference
on Business and Economics Research; Proceeding 2011-310, Conference Master Resources.

Rezai, G., Teng, P.K. Mohamed, Z., Shamsudin, M.N. (2012). Consumers' awareness and
consumption intention towards green foods. African Journal of Business Management.
6(12), 4496-4503. Doi: 10.5897/AJBM11.1414

Ridder M. (2019). Cosmetics consumption value in Europe 2019, by country. Retrieved from:
https://www.statista.com/statistics/382100/european-cosmetics-market-volume-by-
country/

Ridder M. (2020). Cosmetics consumption value in Europe 2012-2019. Retrieved from:

https://www.statista.com/statistics/439551/european-cosmetics-market-value/

Ridder M. (2020). Cosmetics market share in Italy 2016-2019, by product category. Retrieved
from: https://www.statista.com/statistics/407681/cosmetics-category-market-share-italy/

Ridder M. (2020). Value of the cosmetics market worldwide from 2018 to 2025. Retrieved from:
https://www.statista.com/statistics/585522/global-value-cosmetics-market/

Rios, F. J. M., Martınez, T. L., Moreno, F. F. & Soriano, P. C. (2006). Improving attitudes toward
brands with environmental associations: An experimental approach. The Journal of
Consumer Marketing. 23 (1): 26–34. Doi: 10.1108/07363760610641136

Roberts, J.A. (1996) Green consumers in the 1990s: Profile and implications for advertising.
Journal of Business Research 36 (3): 217–231. Doi: 10.1016/0148-2963(95)00150-6

Rochman, C. M. et al. (2013). Classify plastic waste as hazardous. Nature. 494, 169 – 171. Doi:
10.1038/494169a

Rokka, J., Uusitalo, L. (2008). Preference for green packaging in consumer product choices - do
consumers care? International Journal of Consumer Studies. 32 (5), 516e525. Doi:
10.1111/j.1470-6431.2008.00710.x

Romani, S., Grappi, S. & Dalli, D. (2012). Emotions that drive consumers away from brands:
Measuring negative emotions toward brands and their behavioral effects, International
Journal of Research in Marketing, 29 (1). 55-67. doi: 10.1016/j.ijresmar.2011.07.001.
 94

Sanchez, R. (2020). Barilla realizes that they didn’t need that little plastic window on their
packaging. Retreieved from: https://thedieline.com/blog/2020/7/6/barilla-realizes-they-didnt-
need-that-little-plastic-window-on-their-packaging?

Scalco, A., Noventa, S., Sartori, R., Ceschi, A. (2017). Predicting Organic Food Consumption: a
Meta-analytic Structural Equation Model Based on the Theory of Planned Behavior.
Appetite. 112. doi: 10.1016/j.appet.2017.02.007.

Scott, L., Vigar-Ellis, D. (2014). Consumer understanding, perceptions and behaviours with
regard to environmentally friendly packaging in a developing nation. Int. Journal of
Consumer Studies. 38, 642-649. Doi: 10.1111/ijcs.12136

Schuhwerk, M. & Lefkoff-hagius, R. (1995). Green or Non-Green: Does Type of Appeal Matter
When Advertising a Green Product. Journal of Advertising. 24. doi:
10.1080/00913367.1995.10673475.

Schwepker, C. & Cornwell, T. (1991). An examination of ecologically concerned consumers and

their intention to purchase ecologically packaged products. Journal of Public Policy and
Marketing. 10 (2): 77–101. Doi: 10. 77-101. 10.1177/074391569101000205.

Sheth, J., Newman, B., Gross, B. (1991). Why we buy what we buy: a theory of consumption
values. Journal of Business Research. 22 (2), 159-170. Doi: 10.1016/0148-2963(91)90050-8

Steenis, N.D., van der Lans, I.A., van Herpen, E., van Trijp, H.C. (2018). Effects of sustainable
design strategies on consumer preferences for redesigned packaging. Journal of Cleaner
Production. 205, 854-865. Doi: 10.1016/j.jclepro.2018.09.137

Steenis, N.D., van Herpen, E., van der Lans, I.A., Ligthart, T.N., van Trijp, H.C. (2017).
Consumer response to packaging design: the role of packaging materials and graphics in
sustainability perceptions and product evaluations. Journal of Cleaner Production. 162, 286-
298. Doi: 10.1016/j.jclepro.2017.06.036

Straughan, R.D., Roberts, J.A. (1999). Environmental segmentation alternatives: A look at green
consumer behavior in the new millennium. Journal of Consumer Marketing. 16 (6): 558–575.
Doi: 10.1108/07363769910297506

Svanes, E., Vold, M., Møller, H., Pettersen, M.K., Larsen, H. & Hanssen, O. J. (2010).
Sustainable packaging design: a holistic methodology for packaging design. Packaging
technology and science: an international journal. 23(3), 161-175. Doi: 10.1002/pts.887
 95

Tan BC, Lau T.C. (2010). The influencing factors of green purchase behaviour: an exploratory
study. International Conference on Marketing (ICMAR2010); Kuala Lumpur.

Tan, B. C. & Lau, T.C. (2010). Attitude towards the Environment and Green Products:
Consumers' Perspective. Management Science and Engineering. 4. Doi:
10.3968/j.mse.1913035X20100402.002

Tang, Z., Chen, X., Luo, J. (2011). Determining socio-psychological drivers for rural household
recycling behavior in developing countries: a case study from Wugan, Hunan, China.
Environment and Behavior. 43. 848-877. doi: 10.1177/0013916510375681.

Taufique, K., Vaithianathan, S. (2018). A Fresh Look at Understanding Green Consumer

Behavior among Young Urban Indian Consumers through the Lens of Theory of Planned
Behavior. Journal of Cleaner Production. 183. 46-55. Doi: 10.1016/j.jclepro.2018.02.097.

Taufique, K.M.R., Vocino, A., Polonsky, M.J. (2017). The influence of eco-label knowledge and
trust on pro-environmental consumer behaviour in an emerging market. Journal of Strategic
Marketing. 25(7), 511-529. Doi: 10.1080/0965254X.2016.1240219

Taylor, R., Villas-Boas, S.B. (2016). Food store choices of poor households: a discrete choice
analysis of the national household food acquisition and purchase survey (FoodAPS).
Americal Journal of Agricultural Economics. 98 (2), 513-532. Doi: 10.1093/ajae/aaw009

Teuber, L., Osburg, V., Toporowski, W., Militz, H. & Krause, A. (2016). Wood polymer
composites and their contribution to cascading utilisation. Journal of Cleaner Production.
110, 9-15. doi: 10.1016/j.jclepro.2015.04.009.

The Body Shop. (2011). The Body Shop International PLC Values Report 2011: Striving to be a
force for good. Retrieved from:
https://www.compromisorse.com/upload/estudios/000/173/pages.pdf

Thøgersen, J. (2010). Country Differences in Sustainable Consumption: The Case of Organic

Food. Journal of Macromarketing. 30. 171-185. Doi: 10.1177/0276146710361926.

Thøgersen, J. & Ölander, F. (2006). The Dynamic Interaction of Personal Norms and
Environment Friendly Buying Behavior: A Panel Study1. Journal of Applied Social
Psychology. 36. 1758 - 1780. Doi: 10.1111/j.0021-9029.2006.00080.x.

Total energies. (2020). LanzaTech, Total and L’Oréal announce a worldwide premiere: the
production of the first cosmetic plastic bottle made from industrial carbon emissions.
 96

Retrieved from: https://totalenergies.com/media/news/communiques-presse/lanzatech-total-

and-loreal-announce-worldwide-premiere-the-production

Trafimow, D. & Finlay, K. (1996). The Importance of Subjective Norms for a Minority of People:
Between Subjects and Within-Subjects Analyses. Personality and Social Psychology Bulletin.
22. 820-828. doi: 10.1177/0146167296228005.

Trivium Packaging (2020). Global Buying Green Report. Momentum Builds for sustainable
packaging. Retrieved from:
https://triviumpackaging.com/sustainability/2020BuyingGreenReport.pdf

United Nations (1992). Results of the World Conference on Environment and Development:
Agenda 21. UNCED United Nations Conference on Environment and Development, Rio de
Janeiro, United Nations, New York.

Van Birgelen, M., Semeijn, J., Keicher, M. (2009). Packaging and proenvironmental
consumption behaviour: investigating purchase and disposal decisions for beverages.
Environ. Behav. 41 (1), 125e146. Doi: 10.1177/0013916507311140

Van der Colff, N., Van der Merwe, D., Bosman, M., Erasmus, A. & Ellis, S. (2015). Consumers’
prepurchase satisfaction with the attributes and information of food labels. International
Journal of Consumer Studies. 40. n/a-n/a. Doi: 10.1111/ijcs.12245.

Van Liere, K.D.V., Dunlap, R.E. (1980). The social bases of environmental concern: A review of
hypotheses, explanations and empirical evidence. Public Opinion Quarterly, 44, 181- 197.
Doi: 10.1086/268583

Verghese, K. & Lewis, H. (2007). Environmental innovation in industrial packaging: A supply

chain approach. International Journal of Production Research. 45. 4381-4401. doi:
10.1080/00207540701450211.

Verma, V. & Chandra, B. (2018). An Application of Theory of Planned Behavior to Predict Young
Indian Consumers' Green Hotel Visit Intention. Journal of Cleaner Production. 172. Doi:
10.1016/j.jclepro.2017.10.047.

Verma, V. & Chandra, B. (2017). Intention to Implement Green Hotel Practices: Evidence from
Indian Hotel Industry. International Journal of Management Practice. 11. Doi:
10.1504/IJMP.2018.10008645.

Vlosky, R., Ozanne, L. & Fontenot, R. (1999). A conceptual model of US consumer willingness to
 97

pay for environmental certified wood products. Journal of Consumer Marketing. 16. 122-
140. Doi: 10.1108/07363769910260498.

Walker, K. & Wan, F. (2012). The Harm of Symbolic Actions and Green-Washing: Corporate
Actions and Communications on Environmental Performance and Their Financial
Implications. Journal of Business Ethics. 109. doi: 10.1007/s10551-011-1122-4.

Wang, P., Liu, Q. & Qi, Y. (2014). Factors influencing sustainable consumption behaviors: A
study of rural residents in China. Journal of Cleaner Production. 63, 152–165. doi:
10.1016/j.jclepro.2013.05.007.

Weinfurter, S., Eder, A. (2009). Consumer perceptions of innovative wood-polymer composite

decking with a focus on environmental aspects. Lenzing. Berichte 87, 168-178.

Weiner, J.L. & Doescher, T.A. (1991). A Framework for Promoting Cooperation. Journal of
Marketing. 55, 38-47. Doi: 10.2307/1252236

Werner, Perla. (2004). Reasoned action and planned behavior. S.J. Peterson, T.S. Bredow (Eds.),
Middle range theories: Application to nursing research. Lippincott, Williams & Wilkins,
Philadelphia, 125-147.

Xanthos, D., Walker, T.R. (2017). International Policies to reduce plastic marine pollution from
single-use plastics (plastic bags and microbeads): a review. Mar. Pollut. Bull. 118, 17-26.
doi: 10.1016/j.marpolbul.2017.02.048

Xu, P., Zeng, Y., Fong, Q., Lone, T. & Liu, Y. (2012). Chinese consumers’ willingness to pay for
green-and eco-labeled seafood. Food Control. 28(1), 74–82. doi:
10.1016/j.foodcont.2012.04.008

Yadav, R., Pathak, G.S. (2016). Young consumers’ intention towards buying green products in a
developing nation: Extending the theory of planned behavior. Journal of Cleaner Production.
135, 732–739. Doi: 10.1016/j.jclepro.2016.06.120

Yang, J. & He, X. & Lee, H. (2007). Social Reference Group Influence on Mobile Phone
Purchasing Behaviour: A Cross-Nation Comparative Study. IJMC. 5. 319-338. Doi:
10.1504/IJMC.2007.012397.

Yang, D., Lu, Y., Zhu, W., Su, C. (2015). Going green: How different advertising appeals impact
green consumption behavior. Journal of Business Research, 68(12), 2663-2675. doi:
10.1016/j.jbusres.2015.04.004.
 98

Yazdanpanah, M. & Fourozani, M. (2015). Application of the Theory of Planned Behaviour to

predict Iranian students’ intention to purchase organic food. Journal of Cleaner Production.
107. doi: 10.1016/j.jclepro.2015.02.071.

Ydentik. (n.a.) Ydentik - Perfume Bar Concept. https://www.ydentik.com/

Yue, C., Alfnes, F., Jensen, H.H. (2009). Discounting spotted apples: investigating consumers'
willingness to accept cosmetic damage in an organic product. Journal of Agricultural and
Applied Economics. 41, 29e46. doi: 10.1017/S1074070800002534

Zanoli, R., Naspetti, S. (2002). Consumer motivations in the purchase of organic food: A means-
end approach. British Food Journal. 104. 643-653. 10.1108/00070700210425930.

Zelezny LC, Schultz PW. (2000). Promoting environmentalism. Journal of Social Issues. 56, 365–
371. Retrieved from:
https://web.stanford.edu/~kcarmel/CC_BehavChange_Course/readings/Additional%20Resou
rces/J%20Soc%20Issues%202000/delivery%253Bid=2gms91ynk0pcr.pdf

Zhang X., Dong F. (2020). Why do consumers make green purchase decisions? Insights from a
systematic review. International journal of environmental research and public health, 17.
Doi: 10.3390/ijerph17186607

Zhang, G. & Zhao, Z. (2012). Green Packaging Management of Logistics Enterprises. Physics
Procedia. 24. 900–905. doi: 10.1016/j.phpro.2012.02.135.

Zhao, H., Gao, Q., Wu, Y., Wang, Y. & Zhu, X. (2014). What affects green consumer behavior in
China? A case study from Qingdao. Journal of Cleaner Production. 63. 143–151.
10.1016/j.jclepro.2013.05.021.

Zielinski, L. (2016). Neuromarketing: Going beyond focus groups. Category Analysis, 06(16),
36–40.

Zsóka, Á. (2008). Consistency and “awareness gaps” in the environmental behaviour of

Hungarian companies. Journal of Cleaner Production. 16, 322-329. doi:
10.1016/j.jclepro.2006.07.044.
 99

Appendices

Appendix A: Survey

Attitude towards environment

4. In my view, it is very important to raise environmental concern among our people in
Italy.
5. In my view, more environmental protection works are needed in Italy.
6. In my view, it is essential to promote green living in Italy.

Subjective norm
1. In Most of my friends think I should use beauty products that are safe for the
environment.
2. Most of my friends think I should recycle (beauty) products with an eco-friendly
packaging material.
3. Most of my neighbors think I should use environmentally friendly beauty products
4. Most of my neighbors think I should recycle.
5. Most of my co-workers think I should use environmentally friendly beauty products.
6. Most of my co-workers think I should recycle.
7. Most of my family members think I should use environmentally friendly beauty
products.
8. Most of my family members think I should recycle.

Perceived consumer effectiveness

1. When I buy products, I try to consider how my use of them will affect the
environment and other consumers.
2. Each consumer's behavior can have a positive effect on society by purchasing
products sold by socially responsible companies.
Behavioral intentions
5 I would be willing to sign a petition to support an environmental cause.
6 I would consider joining a group or club which is concerned with the environment.
7 I would be willing to pay more for products with an eco-friendly packaging (material?)
 100

8 I would be willing to stop buying products from companies guilty of polluting the
environment even though it might be inconvenient for me.
9 I would be willing to make personal sacrifices for the sake of slowing down
environmental degradation even though the immediate results may not seem significant.

ECCB
1. I normally make a conscious effort to limit my use of products that are made with an
use of scarce resources.
2. I will not buy products that have excessive packaging.
3. When there is a choice, I always choose the product that contributes to the least
amount of environmental degradation.
4. If I understand the potential damage to the environment that some products can cause,
I do not purchase those products.
5. I have switched products for ecological reasons.
6. I use a recycling center or in some way recycle some of my household trash.
7. I make every effort to buy paper products made from recycled paper.
8. Whenever possible, I buy products packaged in reusable containers.
9. When 1 have a choice between two equal products, I always purchase the one less
harmful to other people and the environment.
10. I try only to buy products that can be recycled.
11. I do not buy (beauty) products that harm the environment.
12. I try to buy (beauty) products with a biodegradable packaging material.
13. I have purchased a (beauty) product because it uses less harmful packaging materials
than other brands.
14. I have purchased (beauty) products that were more expensive but had an eco-friendly
packaging material.
 101

Appendix B: Demographical characteristics of the sample

B.1 Age ranges

Age range Percentage

< 18 4%
18 - 24 22%
25 - 34 29%
35 - 44 13%
45 - 54 13%
55 - 64 17%
65 + 2%

65 +

55 - 64

45 - 54

35 - 44

25 - 34

18 - 24

< 18

0% 5% 10% 15% 20% 25% 30% 35%

B.2 Gender

Gender Percentage
Male 23%
Female 77%
 102

23%

Male
Female
77%

B.3 Education

Education level Percentage

Less than high school diploma 11%
High school diploma 22%
University student not graduated 11%
Bachelor's Degree 12%
Master's Degree 43%
Doctorate (Phd, EdD) 2%

2%
11% Less than high school
diploma
High school diploma

43%
22% University student not
graduated
Bachelor's Degree

Master's Degree

11%
Doctorate (Phd, EdD)
12%
 103

Appendix C: Mediation analysis

C.1 Mediation between Environmental attitude and ECCB

Model : 4
Y : ECCB_Q1
X : AttQ1
M : Int_Q1

Sample
Size: 223

**************************************************************************
OUTCOME VARIABLE:
Int_Q1

Model Summary
R R-sq MSE F df1 df2
p
.5431 .2949 1.1540 92.4426 1.0000 221.0000
.0000

Model
coeff se t p LLCI ULCI
constant 1.0490 .5278 1.9876 .0481 .0089 2.0892
AttQ1 .7748 .0806 9.6147 .0000 .6159 .9336

**************************************************************************
OUTCOME VARIABLE:
ECCB_Q1

Model Summary
R R-sq MSE F df1 df2
p
.4488 .2014 1.3204 27.7377 2.0000 220.0000
.0000

Model
coeff se t p LLCI ULCI
constant 1.3874 .5696 2.4358 .0157 .2648 2.5100
AttQ1 .4700 .1027 4.5786 .0000 .2677 .6723
Int_Q1 .1760 .0720 2.4464 .0152 .0342 .3178

****************** DIRECT AND INDIRECT EFFECTS OF X ON Y *****************

Direct effect of X on Y
Effect se t p LLCI ULCI
.4700 .1027 4.5786 .0000 .2677 .6723

Indirect effect(s) of X on Y:
Effect BootSE BootLLCI BootULCI
Int_Q1 .1364 .0689 .0013 .2762

*********************** ANALYSIS NOTES AND ERRORS ************************

Level of confidence for all confidence intervals in output:

95.0000

Number of bootstrap samples for percentile bootstrap confidence intervals:

 104

5000

------ END MATRIX -----

C.2 Mediation between Subjective norms and ECCB

Model : 4
Y : ECCB_Q1
X : Norm_Q1
M : Int_Q1

Sample
Size: 223

**************************************************************************
OUTCOME VARIABLE:
Int_Q1

Model Summary
R R-sq MSE F df1 df2
p
.1261 .0159 1.6107 3.5697 1.0000 221.0000
.0602

Model
coeff se t p LLCI ULCI
constant 5.6020 .2650 21.1384 .0000 5.0797 6.1242
Norm_Q1 .0987 .0522 1.8894 .0602 -.0042 .2016

**************************************************************************
OUTCOME VARIABLE:
ECCB_Q1

Model Summary
R R-sq MSE F df1 df2
p
.3651 .1333 1.4330 16.9141 2.0000 220.0000
.0000

Model
coeff se t p LLCI ULCI
constant 3.0793 .4345 7.0863 .0000 2.2229 3.9357
Norm_Q1 .0707 .0496 1.4241 .1558 -.0271 .1686
Int_Q1 .3436 .0634 5.4146 .0000 .2185 .4686

****************** DIRECT AND INDIRECT EFFECTS OF X ON Y *****************

Direct effect of X on Y
Effect se t p LLCI ULCI
.0707 .0496 1.4241 .1558 -.0271 .1686

Indirect effect(s) of X on Y:
Effect BootSE BootLLCI BootULCI
Int_Q1 .0339 .0244 -.0030 .0912

*********************** ANALYSIS NOTES AND ERRORS ************************

Level of confidence for all confidence intervals in output:

 105

95.0000

Number of bootstrap samples for percentile bootstrap confidence intervals:

5000

------ END MATRIX -----

C.3 Mediation between PCE and ECCB

Model : 4
Y : ECCB_Q1
X : Eff_Q1
M : Int_Q1

Sample
Size: 223

**************************************************************************
OUTCOME VARIABLE:
Int_Q1

Model Summary
R R-sq MSE F df1 df2
p
.2523 .0637 1.5325 15.0257 1.0000 221.0000
.0001

Model
coeff se t p LLCI ULCI
constant 4.7458 .3531 13.4408 .0000 4.0500 5.4417
Eff_Q1 .2454 .0633 3.8763 .0001 .1206 .3702

**************************************************************************
OUTCOME VARIABLE:
ECCB_Q1

Model Summary
R R-sq MSE F df1 df2
p
.6884 .4739 .8699 99.0683 2.0000 220.0000
.0000

Model
coeff se t p LLCI ULCI
constant 1.0617 .3586 2.9605 .0034 .3549 1.7686
Eff_Q1 .5951 .0493 12.0728 .0000 .4979 .6922
Int_Q1 .2006 .0507 3.9575 .0001 .1007 .3004

****************** DIRECT AND INDIRECT EFFECTS OF X ON Y *****************

Direct effect of X on Y
Effect se t p LLCI ULCI
.5951 .0493 12.0728 .0000 .4979 .6922

Indirect effect(s) of X on Y:
Effect BootSE BootLLCI BootULCI
Int_Q1 .0492 .0241 .0135 .1074

*********************** ANALYSIS NOTES AND ERRORS ************************

 106

Level of confidence for all confidence intervals in output:

95.0000

Number of bootstrap samples for percentile bootstrap confidence intervals:

5000

------ END MATRIX -----