Yarn 2013-31

The Australian magazine for knitting and more Volume 13
Issue 31
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Traveling stitches • Hoodie • Tunisian crochet

Yarn31 cover.indd 1 7/12/2013 4:10:17 PM
ASHFORD RIGID
Relax, create and enjoy
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New South Wales
Ashford Australia
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Woolrae Studio
Ashford Online
Free call 1 800 026 397 Gulgong, NSW 2852 P O Box 25 534 Kihikihi Road
www.ashfordaustralia.com Ph. 02 6374 1170 Blackburn, VIC 3130 Te Awamutu, Waikato 3800 Visit our website for
Fax 02 6374 1170 [email protected] Ph. 027 4608 370 news and information
Spinners Haven [email protected] www.spunout.com.au Ph. 07 870 5340 www.ashford.co.nz
12 Laurence Aveune [email protected]
Armidale, NSW 2350 Queensland Wondoflex Yarn Craft Centre
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[email protected] P O Box 1239 Malvern, VIC 3144 5 Normans Road Ashford.Wheels.Looms
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Virginia Farm Woolworks Ph. 07 5525 3222 [email protected] Ph/Fax 03 355 9099
122 Annangrove Road www.gerrys.com.au www.wondoflex.com.au [email protected] Watch our how-to videos
Annangrove, NSW 2156 www.handscraftstore.com on You Tube. Search:
Ph. 02 9654 1069 Belfairs Sheep, Wool & Handcrafts AshfordHandicrafts
WEBbWORKS 930 Baxter/Tooradin Road
[email protected] Lindy Boshler Ashford Craftshop
www.virginiafarmwoolworks.com.au Pearcedale, VIC 3912
85 Duffield Road Ph. 03 5978 6221 427 West Street
Margate, QLD 4019 Ashburton, Canterbury 7700 Join the Ashford Club
Petlins Spinning & Weaving Ph. 07 3883 2982 Ph. 0800 274 3673 www.ashfordclub.co.nz
17 Cavell Ave Woolsy Trading Post
[email protected] 142 Shannon Ave Fax 03 308 3159
Rhodes, NSW 2138 [email protected]
Ph. 02 9736 1501 Geelong West
South Australia Geelong, VIC 3218 www.ashfordcraftshop.co.nz Dealer enquiries welcome
[email protected] bellatextiles Email [email protected]
www.petlins.com Ph. 03 5222 1571
Cnr Greenfield Road & Fowler Street Knit World Mail Order
Seaview Downs, SA 5049 Jolly Jumbuk Country Craft Centre Ph. 04 586 4530
Glenora Weaving & Wool Ph. 04 3987 2849 P O Box 425 Fax 04 586 4531
P O Box 9 [email protected] Bairnsdale, VIC 3875 [email protected]
Gerringong, NSW 2534 Ph. 1300 301 386 www.knitworld.co.nz
Ph. 02 4234 0422 [email protected]
[email protected] Tasmania
The Wool Shop www.jumbukwool.com.au The Yarn Queen
www.glenoraweaving.com.au
58 Main Road Online Knitting Store
Moonah, TAS 7009 Western Australia Servicing all New Zealand
Coramba Fibrecrafts Bilby Yarns
247C Orara Way Ph. 03 6278 1800 Ph. 09 836 7285
Fax 03 6278 1808 Cnr Harrison & Hilary Streets [email protected]
Coffs Harbour, NSW 2450 Willagee, WA 6156
Ph. 02 6654 4435 [email protected] www.theyarnqueen.co.nz
Ph. 08 9331 8818
[email protected] [email protected]
www.bilbyyarns.com
Yarn31 IFC.indd 1 7/11/2013 9:14:15 PM

What’s INSIDE!
A good idea begins with a good yarn
YARN Issue 31/September 2013

®
Publisher
ArtWear Publications
Editor
Michelle Moriarty.
Art Director
Kylie Albanese.
Consulting editors
Rose Long, Wendy Knight, Anna Garde,
Liz Haywood.
Photography
Article photography by contributor unless
otherwise started; Kristie from Figtree Pictures
pgs 22-27, 32-43 www.figtreepictures.com;
and more . . .
Victoria from Essence Images pages 10-14
www.essence-images.com.au
Contributors
Liz Haywood, Robynn El-Ross, Jude Skeers,
contents issue 8
Wendy Knight, Marius Cuming, Judith Webster, W Cast on W Patterns cont’d
Jenny Occleshaw, Melissa Deutsch Scott,
Editors’ notes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Penguin Parade Jenny Occleshaw . . . . . . . . . 16
Alana Clifton-Cunningham, Lynne Johnson,
Kiri FitzGerald-Hillier, Lorraine O’Brien. Letters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Cloche2U: 2 hats Melissa Deutsch Scott . . . 22
Cover
Book Reviews . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Woven Garter short row hats Lynne Johnson 26
Concept, photography and styling by Lisa Artisan Vest Wendy Knight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Lloyd, www.lisalloydphotography.com.au ;
Model Hana Perera, Makeup Shantala W Columns Slimline Hoodie Lorraine O’Brien. . . . . . . . 35
Mack; web by Jude Skeers. Traveling Stitches Liz Haywood. . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Bloom Shawl Kiri FitzGerald-Hillier . . . . . 40
Admin assistant Tech Talk: Slip-Stitch & Mosaic Jude Skeers . . . 44 Visual Arts Diary cover (Tunisian Crochet)
Dawn Bordin. Profile Alana Clifton-Cunningham . . . . . . . . . 28 Robynn El-Ross . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
Advertising sales
W Features
& marketing: Michelle Moriarty
[email protected] W Cast off
02 6687 4002. Tunisian Crochet part 3 Robynn-El Ross . . . . . 46
Advertisers’ Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Published in Australia Wool4Skool Marius Cuming . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
Printed in China by Everbest Printing Co Ltd.
Yarn Related Yumminess . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
Australian distribution by IPS YARN Market . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51

W Patterns
www.publicationsolutions.com.au
Stitch Guide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
New Zealand distribution by CRAFTCO Limited
Tel:+64 (0)3 963 0649. Crow’s Nest Mitts (travel stitch) Logo Listings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
USA and Canada distribution Judith Webster. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 YARN Classifieds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
by DISTICOR Magazine Distribution Services
Tel: +905 619 6565.
UK distribution by Manor House

Tel +44 (0) 1672 514 288.
Please address comments, letters, and inquiries to

[email protected]
or write to YARN Magazine, PO Box 238,
Lennox Head NSW 2478. Ph: +61 2 6687 4002.
All contents © YARN Magazine 2013. The purchaser Acknowledgements Thank you to our models, Amy & Hailey, who were photographed on a chilly 10 degree Celcius day,
of this magazine may make a single copy of any trying to appear as if they were basking in the sunshine; to Lisa for the concept cover shot idea (you did a fantastic cover for us
pattern contained within for personal use only. Please
do not give copies to your friends. Contact us to talk and we love your photography and styling skills); to the contributors for their great work; to our tech editors for their superior
about reproductions, including intended sale of items
mathematical skills and to our readers and subscribers for supporting an Australian independent publication (and to the subscribers
made from patterns within this magazine. If you have
any questions about obtaining permissions or about who sent survey forms back in—there were MANY).
this policy, please contact us at the address above.
YARN ® is a registered trademark of Yarn www.artwearpublications.com.au Issue No 31 YARN 1

Magazine, Lennox Head, New South Wales.
Y31 contents pg 1.indd 1 7/12/2013 4:11:39 PM

editors' notes
the girls!
With the last issue of Yarn we sent a survey form out to our YARN subscribers, asking what they
would like to see more (or less) of in upcoming issues. At the time of going to press the date to send
in surveys had not yet passed, but from the copies at hand, it was interesting to note that roughly
equal numbers were for/against similar things, for example, roughly 50% wanted to see technically
challenging patterns while roughly 50% wanted to see easy patterns. Some respondents wanted to
see a mixture of both. The thing that surprised us most though is that roughly 30% of readers (that
Michelle returned the survey) start at the start and continue reading, right through to the back. Surely this
30% do a quick flick through? Even a sneaky micro-glance, perhaps over a cup of coffee or tea, before
settling in for the long read?
For those “start to finish readers” we don’t want to reveal too much of what is inside, however, we
do always try to include a mix of quick projects (for those that are a bit short on time or like to take a
project for an outing that will still allow you to chat and not miss your destination) and a few projects
that will take a much longer time frame to complete (and may require more brain power to stay on
track). The mix in this issue is spot on! The penguins and cloche hats work up pretty quickly, while the
Kylie mitts and beanies take a bit more time (until you get the hang of the technique used in each one). The
shawl and vest take a bit longer and the very wearable hoodie should be taken slowly and enjoyed by
all age groups. The finer yarn weight gives it a timeless appeal, destined to be a “go to” wardrobe staple
for many years (and even generations) to come. It is surprisingly warm for something so light weight.
Because so many of you surprised us with the survey, perhaps you could surprise us again and let us know
when you do the most knitting, ie, what season? Magazine and yarn sales soar in winter, but Michelle knits more
in Spring, Autumn & Summer, while Kylie knits more at the start of winter (not mid-winter). Rose knits non-stop
year round, and Wendy knits and crochets year round too. We all work on different projects at different times
of the year as well, making us quite an eclectic bunch. Some of us have the pattern memorised after the second
repeat, whereas some of us have so many distractions (should really read as children I think) that sometimes the
pattern never quite makes it to the memory bank. Wherever and however you knit or crochet, we hope that you
find something in this issue to dog ear or book mark and make when the time feels right for you.
Late News. Due to unforeseen circumstances part 2 of the Jelly Dye Spinning Project has been delayed. Deb
sends her apologies and will have the article ready for you in the next issue. We thank you for your patience and
understanding.
Spreading the Yarn love, Michelle & Kylie
Yarn Issue 31 Advertisers Index

Advertiser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Page Grampians Texture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 TAFTA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
Australian Country Spinners . . . . . . . . . . . 41 Handspinners & Weavers SA . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Tailored Strands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Ashford New Zealand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . IFC Handknitters Guild Inc VIC . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Tarnwarncoort . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
Banksia Yarns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Janella Alpaca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Tasmanian House of Fibre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Batik Oetoro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Kathy‘s Fibres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Tasmanian Wool Centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
BB Yarn Supplies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Knitalpaca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Tasmanian Woollen Co . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Beautiful Silks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Knit Knacs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Tenterfield Carding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Biggan Design . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Knitting Pretty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
The House of Alpaca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Butterfly Knit Designs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Marlyn Alpaca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
The Knitters Studio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Can Do Books . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Moseley Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
The Stash Cupboard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Colonial Lake Books . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Onabee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
The Stitching Circle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Craft Alley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 OpenDrawer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
The Uralla Wool Room . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Ecoyarns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Rainbow Wools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
Waratah Fibres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
Expertise Events . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Renaissance Dyeing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Fibres & Threads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Sarah Durrant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 Wirraworra Wool . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
Fibre Scour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Shiloh Wool . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Woolybutt Knitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Fibreworks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Spacefrog . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Yarn about Yarn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54

Galifrey Alpaca Textiles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Stitch‘n Time . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Yarn Glorious Yarn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Glenora Weaving & Wool . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Stranded in Oz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Yay! For yarn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
2 YARN Issue No 31 www.artwearpublications.com.au
Y31 editors & letters pg 2n3.indd 2 7/11/2013 9:16:16 PM

letters
Do Trees Feel the Cold? From an Email Conversation

Volunteers from the Friends of the National Arboretum I admire Kaffe Fasset. He opened our eyes, took off
Canberra decorated the Himalayan Cedar forest as part the blinkers and showed us how to USE COLOUR. Size
of their ‘Warm Trees’ display. More than 100 knitters & shape didn‘t matter as much as the colours, and the
made squares and scarves for an exciting, colourful and more the better. As a spinner I don‘t need to use lots of
innovative display amongst the trees at the National different balls of wool, as I can Random Dye my own
Arboretum Canberra, which were displayed from 1 to fleece and get my own unique blend of colour & texture.
31 July 2013. I am still wearing my own Kaffe Fasset inspired jacket
—Kelly Ashcroft 24 years after making it! No one realises how old it is,
Ed’s Note—Thanks for sending that in Kelly. We have all they see are the colours and design.
heard that there were some spectacularly warm trees in I had the pleasure of attending a talk by Kaffe in about
Warwick, while in Ballina, we noticed that the palm trees 1986/7 in Melbourne where we were able to inspect
were already warm (obviously) as they had sweat bands some of his work and even try the garments on. Coming
and pom poms instead. LOVE the different temperatures from a generation where the “finish” of a garment was
across Australia! paramount it was a revelation to handle these, and they
fitted all of us from slim to ample.
Love vintage. I have a collection of vintage and
veteran patterns and enjoy a browse through the boxes
from time to time, from the economy of wartime &
clothing coupons to new yarns, colours, textures etc.
From cradle to grave (no pattern for a shroud though)
and war to peace, good times & bad. After all women (&
men) have knitted for centuries, nothing is new!
Reading the last Postcard from Shetland reminded me
that somewhere in my wool stockpile there is a small bag
of fleece I gathered from fences in Shetland while waiting
Reader’s Gallery Request for the inter- island ferry on Sunday May 10, 1987 ( I found
I have just placed an order as you definitely have the my trip notes). I must spin this someday soon.
best magazine in Australia for this knitter. Any chance Keep up the good work.
of a gallery? —Beryl Farr
—Terese Ed’s Note—Always lovely to catch up with you Beryl and
Ed’s Note—We have the technology Terese and would your comment about “the finish of a garment [being]
love to showcase what readers have made from previous paramount” made Michelle laugh. When Michelle’s Mum
Yarn Magazine designs. If you can email images in at (Lorraine) comes to stay she actually inspects the clothes
300dpi and around 1mb, we can include it, however, if hanging on the line to see if they were made by Michelle
you only send a small one, it will pixelate, but we could or store bought. Sometimes Lorraine gets a surprise too!
“post it” on FaceBook instead.
Sharing the Love PUBLICATIONS

I just wanted to compliment the team...the graphics
and presentation were fantastic...quality with an edge.
I found it inspiring and there was also a freshness to
the mag.
—Deb
Ed’s Note—Awwww, thanks.
Craftermath
Socks, socks and more SOCKS
[kraf-ter-math] noun
Massive amounts of creative supplies left lying around
after working on craft projects.
—A Christie-Johnston
Ed’s Note—We always knew that this frequently occurring
$ 10
phenomena should have a proper name. Calling it “mess” Includes: Bushwalker socks,
just does not seem right. Downloadable PDF online Lone heart heel socks,
www.artwearpublications.com.au A sock for Helen + more!
www.artwearpublications.com.au Issue No 31 YARN 3
Y31 editors & letters pg 2n3.indd 3 7/11/2013 9:17:36 PM

reviews
Knit Back In Time The yarn choices offer a good deal of year round variety
too, ranging from cotton, rayon, soy, silk, linen, hemp,
Geraldine Warner (Search Press) bamboo and synthetic mix yarns to a blended alpaca
ISBN: 9781844489046 RRP $34.99 yarn, but interestingly, not a touch of wool!
T here are two main parts

to this gorgeous book. The
first part of the book shows you
Texture and line play an important part in these
designs, with techniques including lace, cables, intarsia,
Fair Isle and slip stitch work. Quirky collar, hem and
how to look at a vintage pattern neck treatments, and occasionally keyholes, pleats,
and graph it to see if it will fit. A gathers, ruffles and a peplum round the technique mix
great suggestion here is to also out nicely. This book is gorgeous from start to finish,
make a sewing pattern based on the graph, in t-shirt with schematics and charts where required.
jersey, as the drape will be similar and you can get a —Michelle Moriarty
better feel for the design by wearing it. It explains how
to substitute yarns and adjust sizing where necessary, Knit your Socks on Straight
while showing how to make the calculations that will
ensure a successful fit. Geraldine speaks in a very Alice Curtis (Storey Publishing/
conversational tone, so it is a pleasure to read and Capricorn Link)
learn as you go. There is also a short guide to twentieth ISBN: 9781612120089 RRP $19.99
century knitting fashions in this first part of the book.
In the second part of the book Geraldine looks at L et’s get this straight from
the beginning. I’m a sock
designer, so when I saw this
how to examine current, modern patterns that may
have vintage design elements and explains how to title previewed as “A New and
make adjustments to tailor the fit for a more vintage Inventive Technique With Just Two Needles” as the
silhouette. Interestingly, some stitch and treatment subtitle touted, I said, hand that puppy over, and I’ll
patterns are included so that you can add (make) have a read. And I have. So, a few things to get straight
some DK weight vintage-styled collars, sleeves, pleats, about this book…
pockets, necklines and cuffs, which is great for knitters If you have no desire to ever work on double-pointed
in a hurry, even though most vintage pattern themselves needles, this book is for you! If you can’t see a good
are written for sock weight yarns. reason to switch from circularly-knitted socks to socks
Many delightful designs are shown, but it should be knitted back and forth...skip it.
noted that no actual vintage patterns are included. As Is the technique emphasised in this book “new and
the sub-title explains, this book contains “Techniques inventive”? I’d argue “no, not really”. Socks have been
for Updating Vintage Patterns and Retro-styling knitted this way for ages. But is it a better way to
Modern Patterns” but it does not contain the patterns describe the two-needle flat process? Ah, now there’s
themselves. It is a beautiful book none-the-less. the rub. The answer is yes.
—Carmel Casey Curtis’s directions are well-thought out and described,
with plenty of how-to instructions and pictures to satisfy
Light & Layered Knits the curious flat-or-be-damned sock knitter out there. One
minor error: the toe descriptions are miss-labeled on page
Vicki Square (Interweave/ 13 (perhaps an editing oversight one can surely forgive).
Capricorn Link) But if you are looking for a book that has the right step-by-
ISBN: 9781596687950 RRP $29.99 step descriptions for flat socks, get this book!
Y ou may remember Vicky

Square from the Knit Kimono
series or The Knitters Companion,
For us circular-heads, the biggest obstacle is what to do
about the pesky seam. And Curtis does an excellent job
of addressing the issue with style and design features.
so it is great to see her new book, In most cases, the seam is at the side of the foot so that
with quirky designs that can be each sock is specific—a right sock and a left sock (easy
worn on their own, or layered. The image on the cover enough). And in the more complex patterns, the seam is
hints at what you can expect inside. integrated into the stitch design itself—an elegant touch.
Many of the designs have an asymmetrical feature as In particular, there’s a nice selection of socks in this
part of their look, or a simple silhouette with sleeve, collection to suit all people and feet: thick socks, thin
border or colour interest. I had assumed that the socks, sport socks, kid socks, traditional women’s sock
designs were knitted directionally, but many of them styles like lace and cable, as well as a cute baby sock to
are actually made in components and then seamed get the knitter going.
together. There are 19 designs in all and every single The only drawback I see besides the seam (just can’t
one of them are delightful and wearable, with over half see how that could ever be a good thing for a sock if
of the designs featuring shaping, for a flattering fit. you could avoid it) is that because the sock is open
The introductory chapter, The Light & Layered until seaming, trying on to fit leaves more guesswork
Woman, touches on customisation, yarn substitution than a circularly-knitted sock would. And, this method
and tips for introducing more knits to your wardrobe. requires very precise tension. Sure, you can wrap it
Y31 book reviews pg 4n5.indd 4 7/12/2013 7:35:31 PM

reviews
around the foot and have a guess, but there’s nothing

quite like trying on a toe-up sock, for example, for �it.
No guesswork there.
All up, if you are not enjoying knitting from an old
two-needle sock pattern you’ve found online or in your
nanna’s closet, give this book a go—you’ll have a grand
time. Curtis has invited you into the big wide circle of
sock knitters.
—Melissa Deutsch Scott
Crochet Noro:
30 Dazzling Designs
Individual Designers (Sixth &
Spring/Capricorn Link)
ISBN: 9781936096480 RRP $34.99
Y ummy! This book is good

enough to eat or at the very
least stimulate your appetite
to try crochet. I found myself
turning every page with anticipation of another visual
explosion of colour, texture and style. Noro have
captured the expertise and �lair of our favourite crochet
designers from several countries by allowing them
to create garments for the Noro brand. The result is
thirty unique designs, featuring the current Noro range
of �ibre, each of which you could visualise yourself
wearing proudly.
It is refreshing to see �itted garments presented in a
range of sizes, including a skirt, yolk cardigan, tunic, and
long pullover as well as the one size �its all garments like
many. This is followed by a set of Colour Exercise tasks,
wrist warmers, shawls and necklaces. The gradation
to show how to put the theory into practice. There
of colour that Noro is known for is exploited in both
are some great books on colour theory available, but
medallion and seamless constructions from easy
Alison has excelled in showing how to apply this to
through to dif�icult skill levels. Combined with exquisite
yarn selections, taking for example, a garden scene
photographic styling and clear, consistent instructions
and showing how to emulate this with coloured
this hard cover book is pure inspiration for you to
pattern swatches, individual yarn colours and colour
create the garments yourself. As an ardent exponent
stripe sequences. This is what sets this book apart
of crochet, I’m delighted to see that this publication
from others.
raises the pro�ile of crochet as a legitimate and modern
The designs that are included are all modular, entrelac
fashion statement.
or directional, except for the Baby’s Smock-Dress which
—Debra McGuire
goes from the bottom up, starting in the round and
�inishing on straight needles. The remaining designs
Knitting: Colour, structure are all jumpers (sweaters), jackets or vests. If you have
and design lots of small balls of yarn and you like modular knitting,
Alison Ellen (Crowood Press/Peribo) then this book would be just the ticket. The schematics
and illustrations explain the techniques quite clearly, so
ISBN: 9781847972842 RRP $59.95
if modular knitting is new to you, you should be �ine
T his book is reminiscent of a
hard cover “compendium of
short stories”. Chapters cover:
with it.
The Materials chapter examines a selection of plant,
animal and man-made yarns, explaining how they are
Knitting from pre-history to
prepared and what they are used for. This chapter
present; Stitches and how they work; Techniques; Colour;
also explains how to work with Z and S twist yarns to
Materials; Joining, �inishing, edges and extras; and
produce the best results.
Knitting patterns.
All in all, you will �ind a bit of everything, but if you
The Chapter on Colour is probably the most
speci�ically like modular, entrelac or need to learn more
comprehensive in the book, covering colour theory,
about how to place colour in a design, this would be a
patterns to use, techniques to use and some of the
good book to ful�il those needs.
methods and special effects used in dyeing yarn. The
—Mae Eastman
section on Interpreting Colours will be a revelation for
Y31 book reviews pg 4n5.indd 5 7/12/2013 7:35:52 PM

The What, Where Where?
Any easy way to begin with traveling stitches is to try
them with rib. This swatch is k2 p2 rib, with a left slanting
and How of twist worked on every right side row (ie every second row)
on the k2. The rib is still very springy and the back of the
rib has a subtle texture between the ribs. Use traveling
Traveling Stitches stitches to jazz up ordinary k2 p2 rib, or consult a stitch

guide for interesting ribs using traveling stitches.
By Liz Haywood
“Traveling stitches?
Is that when you knit while
we’re in the car?”
Me: “No, no, read this article”
What?
Traveling stitches are made by working two or
sometimes three stitches out of sequence, forming lines
of stitches traveling over the surface of the knitting.
They’re also called twists, cross-over motifs, mini
cables or 1 by 1 cables. In fact they’re the smallest cable
possible to make because they’re just one stitch crossed
over another. Like cables, traveling stitches yield a
thicker and less flexible fabric depending on the density
of cross-overs in the pattern.
Traveling stitches are easy to do, with lots of small but
important variations that can change their appearance.
They can look like miniature cables or textured rib, Traveling stitches are often used with Aran or cabled
arranged in diamond, zig-zag, lattice, diagonal, or designs. Used on their own they give a miniature
herringbone patterns, and be presented on different Aran effect.
background stitches like stocking stitch, reverse This mini Aran swatch employs knit-knit right twists for
stocking stitch, garter or moss stitch. the two stitch vertical columns and knit-purl left and
A design element with beautiful and diverse right twists for the zig zags in between. All the action
possibilities, traveling stitches can be combined happens on the right side rows; on the wrong side the
with cables, employed as an all-over pattern on knit stitches are knitted and the purls purled.
their own, showcased as a single motif or used as a
band of decoration.
The actual twist, where the two stitches swap places,
can be worked on a right or wrong side row or both.
The two stitches can be both knit, both purl, or a
combination. Instructions for traveling stitch patterns
can be charted or written, and can be worked flat
or circularly, although circular knitting is easier for
patterns where the twist occurs every round because
the right side is always facing you. To change a pattern
from flat /back-and-forth knitting to circular, simply
read every row of the chart from right to left, and work
all the traveling stitches as right-side-row ones.
The best yarns to use for traveling stitch patterns have
a smooth twist, the smoother and less fuzzy the yarn
the better you’ll be able to see the stitch pattern. Solid,
lighter colours show off the design best, leave hand
dyed or variegated yarns for other projects. Smoother
plied yarns appear to be slightly more effective than
crepe yarns.
Y31 Traveling stitches pg6.indd 6 7/11/2013 9:18:31 PM

Motifs sometimes use traveling stitches to de�ine the
outline. They can be easily added to plain garments.
A very simple motif, this bell (or tulip, if you turn it upside
down) has a twist at the top of each block. A reverse stocking
stitch background brings the motifs into sharp relief.
Traveling stitches can create subtle or chunky all-

over texture.
This trellis pattern has rich depth and, surprisingly, a
reasonable amount of stretch, enough to make it suitable
for a pair of socks. The diamond pattern stands out
against a reverse stocking stitch background. This type
of pattern can be adapted to make any sized lattice.
Even though the background of this lattice pattern is

stocking stitch, the traveling stitches can clearly be seen
because they are slipped on every wrong side row. All of the
stitch crossing happens on the right side only. Again, this
type of pattern can be adapted to make any sized lattice.

To work a right slanting twist:
Another all-over pattern on a stocking stitch background,

this herringbone pattern also slips the traveling stitches
on the wrong side to help them lie smoothly and define
the pattern. It’s a reasonably elastic fabric in spite of the
density of traveling stitches.
How?
Since traveling stitches are actually cables, you could
make them just like a cable, using a cable needle. That’s
kind of fiddly though. The most direct way is to knit the
two stitches out of order, you knit the second stitch then
the first, and then slide them off the needle together.
Here’s how:
To work a left slanting twist:
Be sure to positively slip both stitches off the needle at

the end, not just the last one you worked.
Variations: You can work a right slanting twist in two

other ways. In step 2 you can knit into the front of the
first stitch instead of the back. Another method is to
knit two together, then knit the first stitch again before
slipping the stitches off the left needle. Whichever way
you choose, stick to it for a consistent look to your
knitted piece.
So what’s a good way to remember all this? How about

“left-back-right-front”? Or you could remember that
“left” and “back” contain the same number of letters in
each word, and so do “right” and “front”.
Both of these twists are performed on the right side
of the work in knit stitch. The traveling stitches can be
made more prominent by slipping them (purlwise) on
the following (purl) row.
If you have to work a traveling stitch on a wrong side

row, the instructions are exactly the same, eg a left
twist on the right side row is made the same way as a
left twist on a wrong side row except that all the stitches
are purled instead of knitted.
What if you want to have a knit stitch traveling over

a purl? It looks very unlike a cable, but is still made by
working the second stitch out of sequence the same as
a cable, only one of the stitches is knitted and the other
is purled.

For a left slanting twist where a knit stitch method to reposition the stitches on the needle before
lies over a purl, bring the yarn forward and working the traveling stitches. It was a time consuming
purl into the back of the second stitch (a but rewarding swatch to make.
tricky manoeuvre) then take the yarn to the
back and knit into the front of the first stitch.
For a right slanting twist, take the yarn

to the back and knit into the front of the
second stitch, then bring the yarn forward
and simply purl the first stitch.
Another method: the slipped stitch method:

Another method of working traveling stitches is to swap
the positions of the two stitches before you work them,
kind of like working a cable without a cable needle. It How about: traveling stitches using three stitches
is a little slower than knitting the stitches out of order, If you’ve mastered two-stitch traveling stitches, you’ll
because there are a few more steps to the operation. find these an easy continuation.
To work a left slanting twist: Right slanting twist with 3 knit stitches:
Slip two stitches as Knit into the front of the 3rd stitch, then the 2nd, then the 1st
if to purl. Slip them stitch, then slip all 3 stitches off the left needle together.
back to the left
needle by inserting Left slanting twist with 3 knit stitches:
the left needle into (yarn behind) Knit into the back of the 3rd stitch, back
the two stitches of the 2nd stitch, and front of the 3rd stitch, then slip all 3
from right to left stitches off the left needle together.
through the fronts
of the stitches. This Right slanting twist, knit over 2 purls:
switches the position of the two stitches and they are (yarn behind) Knit into the front of the 3rd stitch, then
now ready to knit or purl. (yarn forward) purl into the front of the 1st stitch, then the
2nd stitch, then slip all 3 stitches off the left needle together.
To work a right slanting twist:
Right slanting twists are even easier. Slip two stitches as Left slanting twist, knit over 2 purls:
if to knit two together. Slip them back to the left hand (yarn forward) Purl into the back of the 3rd stitch, then the
needle, and they will have switched positions and are 2nd stitch, then (yarn behind) knit into the front of the 1st
now ready to work. stitch, then slip all 3 stitches off the left needle together.
Bavarian twisted stitch knitting has all the traveling Read more:
(knit) stitches knitted through the back loop, giving an Any good encyclopedia of knitting or stitch collection should have a
section on traveling stitches (eg- “Barbara G Walker’s First Treasury of
extra textural dimension, with the purl stitches purled
Knitting Patterns”).
as normal. Also, it is usual in twisted stitch knitting for Take a look in “Cables” chapters, too, for traveling stitch and cable
the traveling stitch action to take place on every row, combinations.
not just the right side row, therefore circular knitting
“Twisted-Stitch Knitting: Traditional Patterns and Garments from the
is recommended here so that the right side is always
Styrian Enns Valley” by Maria Erlbacher (2009 Schoolhouse Press). An
facing you. It is possible to work on the wrong side, but amazing book, full of beautiful stitch patterns and many challenging
the knit stitches (now purl stitches on the wrong side) things to knit.
still need to be twisted. It’s achieved by purling the purl
stitches through the back loop on the wrong side, and “Power Cables” by Lily M Chin (2010 Interweave Press) has a chapter on
traveling stitches and two projects to try.
working the rest as normal.
“Mary Thomas’s Book of Knitting Patterns” by Mary Thomas (1972
This grey sample was knitted from some patterns I chose Dover Publications) briefly describes traveling stitches with some stitch
from “Twisted-Stitch Knitting: Traditional Patterns patterns in the “Cross and cross-over motifs” chapter.
and Garments from the Styrian Enns Valley” by Maria “Patterns for Guernseys, Jerseys and Arans” by Gladys Thompson (1972
Erlbacher 2009 Schoolhouse Press. I knitted it in the Dover Publications) has some intricate designs for the experienced knitter.
round like a sock and then cut it, so that I would always There are no charts; the directions are all written. Second hand copies of
be working from the right side. I used the slipped stitch this classic book are available very cheaply online.

These mitts are knit up using smaller needles
than normal for this yarn weight, creating
extra stitch definition on the twisted stitch
motifs and a warm, hard-wearing pair of
mitts. The twisted rib across the palm side of
the mitts ensures a stretchy fit for multiple
hand sizes. One size fits most hands S-M (19-
23cm or 7½-9¼inch circ.)
Crow’s
Abbreviations
Right twist: slip one stitch to the cable needle, hold at
back, knit the next stitch tbl, then purl the stitch on the
Nest Mitts
cable needle. OR, if you prefer to work without the cable
needle: Slip 2 stitches to your right needle. Reach behind
the right needle with your left needle and poke the tip up
By Judith Webster under the back of the 2nd stitch. Pull both stitches off the
right needle, holding the base of the loose stitch with your
Yarn Sublime Baby Cashmere Merino Silk DK or Cashmere left forefinger if you’re worried about losing it. Pick up this
Merino Silk DK 75% Merino, 20% Silk, 5% Cashmere hanging stitch with the tip of your right needle and slide
(50g/1.75oz, 116m/178yds, 12wpi, equiv Aust 8ply, CYCA back onto the left needle. Ktbl, p1.
#3, Double Knit weight) 2 balls. Left twist: slip one stitch to the cable needle, hold at the
Needles and notions 3.5mm (US 4) dpns; waste yarn; front, purl the next stitch, then ktbl the stitch on the cable
three stitch markers; needle to sew in ends needle. OR, if you prefer to work without the cable needle:
Tension 35st to 10cm (4inch) in twisted rib, unstretched Slip 2 stitches to your right needle. Reach in front of the
with 3.5mm (US 4) needles; as the rib is very stretchy, you needle with your left needle and pick up the 2nd stitch.
may like to test your needle size by knitting a small swatch Pull both stitches off the right needle. Slip the hanging
in the round as follows: stitch back onto the left needle. P1, Ktbl.
Cast on 48 stitches and join. Work 4 rounds in k1tbl, p1 Right twist knit: slip one stitch to the cable needle, hold
rib, then work 10 rounds of the motif pattern. Cast off at back, knit the next stitch tbl, then k tbl the stitch on the
loosely and test the fit on your wrists. cable needle. OR, if you prefer to work without the cable
Notes If choosing a different yarn, ensure it is strong needle: as for the right twist, switch the stitches on your
and stretchy enough to ensure smooth stitch definition left needle, k each tbl.
(textured or tape yarns not recommended) and that you Left twist knit: slip one stitch to the cable needle, hold at
can work the twisted stitches comfortably (the yarn needs the front, k the next stitch tbl, then k tbl the stitch on the
to have a degree of elasticity). cable needle. OR, if you prefer to work without the cable
All knit stitches are worked tbl (through the back loop) needle: as for the left twist, switch the stitches on your left
except for those in the thumb gusset which are knit normally. needle, k each tbl.
Y31 Crow Nest Mitts pg10.indd 10 7/11/2013 9:22:04 PM

Left Mitt
With DPNs cast on 48sts. Place marker and join to work
in the round, being careful not to twist sts.
Rounds 1-34: Work panel as per chart, *k1tbl, p1*,
repeat from * to * to end of round
Thumb Gusset
You will start increasing for the thumb gusset in round
35 using two stitch markers to separate this section of
stitches. Two paired increases, M1R and M1L, are used.
See stitch guide.
Round 35: Work panel as per chart, *k1tbl, p1*, repeat
from * to * to last knit stitch of round. Place marker,
M1R, k1, M1L, place marker, p1.
from * to * to gusset marker. Slip marker, knit to next
marker, slip marker, p1.
Round 37: Work panel as per chart, *k1tbl, p1*, repeat Specialising in locally, nationally and
from * to * to gusset marker. Slip marker, M1R, knit to internationally sourced natural fibre yarns.
next marker, M1L, slip marker, p1.
Round 38: Work panel as per chart, *k1tbl, p1*, repeat Stockists of Fyberspates, Cascade, Lorna's Laces,
from * to * to gusset marker. Slip marker, knit to next Sweet Georgia, Skein and so much more.
marker, slip marker, p1.
159 Liverpool Street, Hobart, 7000
Continue to work gusset increases as set every second phone (03) 6234 1219
(odd numbered) round until Round 53. On alternate
(even) rounds knit the gusset without increasing.
www.thestashcupboard.com.au
repeat from * to * to end of round, but working gusset
as set (on completion of Round 53 you should have
21sts between the gusset markers).
from * to * to first gusset marker. Remove marker. Put
next 21 stitches on waste yarn, remove 2nd marker, p1.
In the next round you will rejoin the mitt where the
gusset markers were.
repeat from * to * to last stitch, p1.
Round 70: *k1tbl, p1*, repeat from * to * to last two
stitches, p2tog tbl.
Rounds 71-74: k1tbl, p1 around
Cast off in rib.
Thumb
Put 21 thumb stitches back onto dpns. Pick up 3 stitches
at thumb base and knit around (24 st). Work in (k1tbl,
p1) rib for 4 rounds. Cast off in rib. Weave in ends,
tightening any holes at the thumb base if required.
Right Mitt
Work as for left glove until Round 35. The gusset increases
are worked on the other side of the motif panel. The
increases will therefore start in the first knit stitch after
the panel (instead of the last knit stitch of the round).
Round 35: Work panel as per chart. Place marker, M1R,
k1, M1L, place marker, p1. (k1tbl, p1) to end of round.
Round 36: Work panel as per chart. Slip marker, knit to
next marker, slip marker, p1. (k1tbl, p1) to end of round.

- n - n - n - n - n - n - - n - n - n - n - n - n 74 Stitch key Chart Pattern
- n - n - n - n - n - n - - n - n - n - n - n - n 73
n knit tbl The chart shows
- n - n - n - n - n - n - - n - n - n - n - n - n 72
- n - n - n - n - n - n - - n - n - n - n - n - n 71 - purl the back of the
- n - n - n - n - n - n - - n - n - n - n - n - n 70 ! right twist knit gloves only. The
- n - - - n - $ - - n [ n - - # - n - - - n 69
- " left twist knit rest of the mitt is
$ - - n - - $ # - - $ # - - n - - # 68
- - n - - n - - - " - - - - ! - - - n - - n - 67 # right twist worked in k1tbl,
- - n - - n - - # $ - - # $ - - n - - n - 66 $ left twist p1 rib.
- - $ # - # - - $ # - - $ - $ # - 65
- - - ! - -
no stitch
n - - - - ! - - - - n - - " - - 64
- - # $ - n - - - - n n - - - - n - # $ - 63 Q purl f&b
- - n - - n - n - - - - ! - - - - n - n - - n - 62 [ p2tog tbl
- - n - - n - $ - - # $ - - # - n - - n - 61
- - n - - n - - $ # - - $ # - - n - - n - 60
- - n - - n - - - " - - - - ! - - -
Round 37: Work panel as per chart. Slip marker,
n - - n - 59
- - n - - n - - # $ - - # $ - - n - - n - 58 M1R, knit to next marker, M1L, slip marker, p1.
- - $ # - - n - - n - - n - - n - - $ # - 57 (k1tbl, p1) to end of round.
- - - ! - - - n - - n - - n - - n - - - " - - 56
- - # $ - - n - - n - - n - - n - -
Round 38: Work panel as per chart. Slip marker,
# $ - 55
- - n - - n - - $ # - - $ # - - n - - n - 54 knit to next marker, slip marker, p1. (k1tbl, p1)
- - n - - n - - - " - - - - ! - - - n - - n - 53 to end of round.
- - n - - n - - # $ - - # $ - - n - - n - 52
- - $ # -
Continue to work gusset increases as set every
# - - $ # - - $ - $ # - 51
- - - ! - - n - - - - ! - - - - n - - " - - 50 second (odd numbered) round until Round
- - # $ - n - - - - n n - - - - n - # $ - 49 53. On alternate (even) rounds knit the gusset
- - n - - n - n - - - - ! - - - - n - n - - n - 48
- - n - - n -
without increasing.
$ - - # $ - - # - n - - n - 47
- - n - - n - - $ # - - $ # - - n - - n - 46 Rounds 39-53: Work as per left mitt instructions,
- - n - - n - - - " - - - - ! - - - n - - n - 45 working gusset as set between your gusset
- - n - - n - - # $ - - # $ - - n - - n - 44
- - $ # - - n - - n - - n - - n - -
markers at the end of the panel chart, then p1,
$ # - 43
- - - ! - - - n - - n - - n - - n - - - " - - 42 (k1tbl, p1) to end of round (you should now have
- - # $ - - n - - n - - n - - n - - # $ - 41 21sts between the gusset markers).
- - n - - n - - $ # - - $ # - - n - - n - 40
Round 54: Work panel as per chart. Remove
- - n - - n - - - ! - - - - " - - - n - - n - 39
- - n - - n - - # - - - - - - $ - - n - - n - 38 marker. Put next 21 stitches on waste yarn,
- - $ # - # - - - - - - - - $ - $ # - 37 remove 2nd marker. P1, *k1tbl, p1*, repeat from
- - - ! - - n - - - - - - - - - - n - - " - - 36
* to * to end of round.
- - # - - - n - - - - - - - - - - n - - - $ - 35
- - n - - - - n - - - - - - - - - - n - - - - n - 34 In the next round you will rejoin the mitt where
- - n - - - - $ - - - - - - - - # - - - - n - 33 the gusset markers were.
- - n - - - - - $ - - - - - - # - - - - - n - 32
Rounds 55-69: Work as per left glove, working
- - n - - - - - - $ - - - - # - - - - - - n - 31
- - n - - - - - - - $ - - # - - - - - - - n - 30 the stitches after the panel section as set, that is,
- - $ - - - - - - - n - - n - - - - - - - # - 29 p1 *k1tbl, p1*, repeat from * to * to end of round.
- - - $ - - - - - - n - - n - - - - - - # - - 28 Round 70: (k1tbl, p1) eleven times, k1tbl, p2tog
- - - - $ - - - - - n - - n - - - - - # - - - 27
- - - - - n - - - - # - - $ - - - - n - - - - 26 tbl, *k1tbl, p1*, repeat from * to * to end of round.
- - - - - n - - - # - - - - $ - - - n - - - - 25 Rounds 71-74: k1tbl, p1 around
- - - - - n - - # - - - - - - $ - - n - - - - 24 Cast off in rib. Work thumb as for left mitt.
- - - - # - # - - - - - - - - $ - $ - - - 23
- - - # - - n - - - - - - - - - - n - - $ - - 22
- - # - - - n - - - - - - - - - - n - - - $ - 21
- - n - - - - n - - - - - - - - - - n - - - - n - 20
- - n - - - - $ - - - - - - - - # - - - - n - 19
- - n - - - - - $ - - - - - - # - - - - - n - 18
- - n - - - - - - $ - - - - # - - - - - - n - 17
- - n - - - - - - - $ - - # - - - - - - - n - 16
- - $ - - - - - - - n - - n - - - - - - - # - 15
- - - $ - - - - - - n - - n - - - - - - # - - 14
- - - - $ - - - - - n - - n - - - - - # - - - 13
- - - - - n - - - - # - - $ - - - - n - - - - 12
- - - - - n - - - # - - - - $ - - - n - - - - 11
- n - n - n - n - n - n Q - n - n - n - n - n - n 10
- n - n - n - n - n - n - - n - n - n - n - n - n 9
- n - n - n - n - n - n - n - n - n - n - n - n 8
- n - n - n - n - n - n - n - n - n - n - n - n 7
- n - n - n - n - n - n - n - n - n - n - n - n 6
- n - n - n - n - n - n - n - n - n - n - n - n 5
- n - n - n - n - n - n - n - n - n - n - n - n 4
- n - n - n - n - n - n - n - n - n - n - n - n 3
- n - n - n - n - n - n - n - n - n - n - n - n 2
- n - n - n - n - n - n - n - n - n - n - n - n 1

Written Directions
(for those that do not like to work from a chart)
NEW WEBSITE LAUNCH
Left Mitt
Cast on 48 st onto dpns. Place marker and join, being
careful not to twist.
Rounds 1-9: (k1tbl, p1) around
Round 10: (k1tbl, p1) 5 times; k1tbl, pfb; (k1tbl, p1) to
end of round
Round 11: p4, k1tbl, p3, left twist, p4, right twist, p3,
k1tbl, p5; (k1tbl, p1) to end of round
Round 13: p3, right twist, p5, k1tbl, p2, k1tbl, p5, left
twist, p4; (k1tbl, p1) to end of round
Round 16: p1, k1tbl, p7, right twist, p2, left twist, p7,
Round 18: p1, k1tbl, p5, right twist, p6, left twist, p5, To celebrate our fresh new look we are giving a
10% discount on all purchases in June
Use discount code YARN10JUNE at checkout
Round 20: p1, k1tbl, p4, k1tbl, p10, k1tbl, p4, k1tbl, p2;
(k1tbl, p1) to end of round
Round 21: p1, left twist, p3, k1tbl, p10, k1tbl, p3, right
Round 23: p3, left twist, p1, left twist, p8, right twist,
p1, right twist, p4; (k1tbl, p1) to end of round
Round 34: p1, k1tbl, p4, k1tbl, p10, k1tbl, p4, k1tbl, p2;
(k1tbl, p1) to end of round

Round 48: p1, k1tbl, p2, k1tbl, p1, k1tbl, p4, right twist
knit, p4, k1tbl, p1; (k1tbl, p2) twice; (k1tbl, p1) to end
of round, working gusset as set.
Round 49: p1, left twist, right twist, p1; (k1tbl, p4,
k1tbl) twice; p1, left twist, right twist, p2; (k1tbl, p1) to
end of round, working gusset as set.
Round 50: p2, left twist knit, p2, k1tbl, p4, right twist
knit, p4, k1tbl, p2, right twist knit, p3; (k1tbl, p1) to end
of round, working gusset as set.
Thumb Gusset Round 51: p1, right twist, left twist, p1; (left twist, p2,
You will start increasing for the thumb gusset in round right twist) twice; p1, right twist, left twist, p2; (k1tbl,
35 using two stitch markers to separate this section of p1) to end of round, working gusset as set.
stitches. Two paired increases, M1R and M1L, are used. Round 52: p1; (k1tbl, p2) twice; (left twist knit, right
Round 35: p1, left twist, p3, k1tbl, p10, k1tbl, p3, right twist knit, p2) twice; (k1tbl, p2) twice; (k1tbl, p1) to
twist, p2; (k1tbl, p1) to last knit stitch of round. Place end of round, working gusset as set.
marker, M1R, k1, M1L, place marker, p1. Round 53: p1, k1tbl, p2, k1tbl, p3, right twist knit, p4,
Round 36: p2, left twist knit, p2, k1tbl, p10, k1tbl, p2, left twist knit, p3; (k1tbl, p2) twice; (k1tbl, p1) to end of
right twist knit, p3; (k1tbl, p1) to gusset marker. Slip round, working gusset as set. You should now have 21
marker, knit to next marker, slip marker, p1. stitches between the gusset markers.
Round 37: p1, right twist, left twist, p1, left twist, p8, Round 54: p1; (k1tbl, p2) twice; (right twist, left twist,
right twist, p1, right twist, left twist, p2; (k1tbl, p1) to p2) twice; (k1tbl, p2) twice; (k1tbl, p1) to first gusset
gusset marker. Slip marker, M1R, knit to next marker, marker. Remove marker. Put next 21 stitches on waste
M1L, slip marker, p1. yarn, remove 2nd marker, p1.
Round 38: p1, k1tbl, p2, k1tbl, p2, left twist, p6, right In the next round you will rejoin the mitt where the
twist, p2; (k1tbl, p2) twice; (k1tbl, p1) to gusset marker. gusset markers were.
Slip marker, knit to next marker, slip marker, p1. Round 55: p1, left twist, right twist, p2; (k1tbl, p2) four
Continue to work gusset increases as set every second times; left twist, right twist, p2; (k1tbl, p1) to last stitch, p1.
(odd numbered) round until round 53. On alternate Round 56: p2, left twist knit, p3; (k1tbl, p2) four times;
(even) rounds knit the gusset without increasing. p1, right twist knit, p3; (k1tbl, p1) to last stitch, p1.
Round 39: p1, k1tbl, p2, k1tbl, p3, left twist knit, p4, Round 57: p1, right twist, left twist, p2; (k1tbl, p2) four
right twist knit, p3; (k1tbl, p2) twice; (k1tbl, p1) to end times; right twist, left twist, p2; (k1tbl, p1) to last stitch, p1.
of round, working gusset as set. Round 58: p1, (k1tbl, p2) twice; (left twist, right twist,
Round 40: p1; (k1tbl, p2) twice; (right twist, left twist, p2) twice; (k1tbl, p2) twice; (k1tbl, p1) to last stitch, p1.
p2) twice; (k1tbl, p2) twice; (k1tbl, p1) to end of round, Round 59: p1, k1tbl, p2, k1tbl, p3, right twist knit, p4,
working gusset as set. left twist knit, p3; (k1tbl, p2) twice; (k1tbl, p1) to last
Round 41: p1, left twist, right twist, p2; (k1tbl, p2) 4 stitch, p1.
times; left twist, right twist, p2; (k1tbl, p1) to end of Round 60: p1; (k1tbl, p2) twice; (right twist, left twist,
round, working gusset as set. p2) twice; (k1tbl, p2) twice; (k1tbl, p1) to last stitch, p1.
Round 42: p2, left twist knit, p3; (k1tbl, p2) 4 times; p1, Round 61: p1, k1tbl, p2, k1tbl, p1; (right twist, p2, left
right twist knit, p3; (k1tbl, p1) to end of round, working twist) twice; p1; (k1tbl, p2) twice; (k1tbl, p1) to last
gusset as set. stitch, p1.
Round 43: p1, right twist, left twist, p2; (k1tbl, p2) 4 Round 62: p1, k1tbl, p2, k1tbl, p1, k1tbl, p4, right twist
times; right twist, left twist, p2; (k1tbl, p1) to end of knit, p4, k1tbl, p1; (k1tbl, p2) twice; (k1tbl, p1) to last
round, working gusset as set. stitch, p1.
Round 44: p1; (k1tbl, p2) twice; (left twist, right twist, Round 63: p1, left twist, right twist, p1, k1tbl, p4, k2tbl,
p2) twice; (k1tbl, p2) twice; (k1tbl, p1) to end of round, p4, k1tbl, p1, left twist, right twist, p2; (k1tbl, p1) to last
working gusset as set. stitch, p1.
Round 45: p1, k1tbl, p2, k1tbl, p3, right twist knit, p4, Round 64: p2, left twist knit, p2, k1tbl, p4, right twist
left twist knit, p3; (k1tbl, p2) twice; (k1tbl, p1) to end of knit, p4, k1tbl, p2, right twist knit, p3; (k1tbl, p1) to last
round, working gusset as set. stitch, p1.
Round 46: p1; (k1tbl, p2) twice; (right twist, left twist, Round 65: p1, right twist, left twist, p1; (left twist, p2,
p2) twice; (k1tbl, p2) twice; (k1tbl, p1) to end of round, right twist) twice; p1, right twist, left twist, p2; (k1tbl,
working gusset as set. p1) to last stitch, p1.
Round 47: p1, k1tbl, p2, k1tbl, p1; (right twist, p2, left Round 66: p1; (k1tbl, p2) twice; (left twist, right twist,
twist) twice; p1; (k1tbl, p2) twice; (k1tbl, p1) to end of p2) twice; (k1tbl, p2) twice; (k1tbl, p1) to last stitch, p1.
round, working gusset as set. Round 67: p1, k1tbl, p2, k1tbl, p3, right twist knit, p4, left

twist knit, p3; (k1tbl, p2) twice; (k1tbl, p1) to last stitch, p1.
Round 68: right twist, p2, k1tbl, p2; (right twist, left
twist, p2) twice; k1tbl, p2, left twist, p1; (k1tbl, p1) to
last stitch, p1.
Round 69: k1tbl, p3, k1tbl, p1, right twist, p2, k1tbl,
p2tog tbl, k1tbl, p2, left twist, p1, k1tbl, p3, k1tbl, p1;
(k1tbl, p1) to last stitch, p1.
Round 70: (k1tbl, p1) to last two stitches, p2tog tbl.
Rounds 71-74: k1tbl, p1 around.
Cast off in rib.
Thumb
Put 21 thumb stitches back onto dpns. Pick up 3 stitches
at thumb base and knit around (24 st). Work in (k1tbl,
p1) rib for 4 rounds. Cast off in rib. Weave in ends,
tightening any holes at the thumb base if required.
Right Mitt
Work as for left mitt until Round 35. The gusset
increases are worked on the other side of the motif
panel. The increases will therefore start in the first knit
stitch after the panel (instead of the last knit stitch of
the round).
twist, p2. Place marker, M1R, k1, M1L, place marker, p1.
(k1tbl, p1) to end of round.
Round 36: p2, left twist knit, p2, k1tbl, p10, k1tbl, p2,
right twist knit, p3. Slip marker, knit to next marker, slip
marker, p1. (k1tbl, p1) to end of round.
Round 37: p1, right twist, left twist, p1, left twist, p8,
right twist, p1, right twist, left twist, p2. Slip marker,
M1R, knit to next marker, M1L, slip marker, p1. (k1tbl,
p1) to end of round.
Round 38: p1, k1tbl, p2, k1tbl, p2, left twist, p6, right
twist, p2; (k1tbl, p2) twice. Slip marker, knit to next
marker, slip marker, p1. (k1tbl, p1) to end of round.
Continue to work gusset increases as set every second
(odd numbered) round until Round 53. On alternate
(even) rounds knit the gusset without increasing.
Rounds 39-53: Work as per left mitt instructions,
working gusset as set between your gusset markers at
the end of the panel chart, then p1, (k1tbl, p1) to end
of round. You should now have 21 stitches between the
gusset markers.
Round 54: p1; (k1tbl, p2) twice; (right twist, left twist,
p2) twice; (k1tbl, p2) twice. Remove marker. Put next
21 stitches on waste yarn, remove 2nd marker. p1,
In the next round you will rejoin the mitt where the
gusset markers were.
Rounds 55- 69: Work as per left mitt, working the
stitches after the panel section as set; that is, p1 (k1tbl,
p1) to end of round.
Round 70: (k1tbl, p1) eleven times; k1tbl, p2tog tbl;
Rounds 71-74: k1tbl, p1 around
Cast off in rib. Work thumb as for left mitt.

PENGUIN
Parade
I made the Penguin Parade with my little Grandson Fin in mind. He is a

great fan of penguins. These ones are a nice size, approximately 12cm
(4.75inch) high and each has its own personality. He was very pleased
with them, although I suspect he may now be moving on to trains.
One ball of 50g (1.75oz) 4 ply cotton (CYCA #1) will make 3 penguins
and you only need little odds and ends of 4 ply to make their clothes
and accessories. Take your time with sewing up and �inishing and you
will achieve a really good result. My penguins all have names but you
might like to name your own. These penguins are a good way of using
up odd bits and pieces and it does not matter if all the buttons and
beads do not match. Doll suppliers have good accessories.
Y31 penguin pg16.indd 16 7/11/2013 9:25:41 PM

Penguin Parade
By Jenny Occleshaw
Yarn (to make penguins) 50g (1.75oz) ball 4 ply (CYCA #1)
black knitting cotton; 50g (1.75oz) ball 4 ply (CYCA #1)
white knitting cotton; small amount 4 ply pale yellow wool
(for beak and feet)
Needles and notions 2.75mm (US 2) straight needles;
2 x 4mm black beads for eyes; white embroidery cotton;
polyester fibre filling; sewing needle; tapestry needle for
sewing up; extras for dressing (see below)
Abbreviations inc=insert the left needle from the front
to the back of the horizontal loop between the two stitches,
then knit the stitch through the back loop; skp=slip 1, knit
1, passed the slipped stitch over; k2tog=knit two stitches
together as one; p2tog=purl two stitches together as one;
ktbl=knit the stitch through the back of the loop
Notes When filling you want the penguins to be nice and
firm so that they can stand up and feel quite solid. Attach
the beak and feet before embroidering the bullion circle
for the eyes. This way you will be sure everything is in the
right spot.
Extras (for dressing penguins)
Chef Penguin small amount red 4 ply for scarf; small
amount cream 4 ply for apron and chef hat; little wooden
rolling pin and bowl
Ballerina Penguin 10 x 1cm pink flower beads; 0.5cm
pink button; small amount of pink tulle or organza 20cm x
5cm or 8 x 2inch; pink glass beads for necklace; polyester
sewing cotton; 6mm pink crystal bead for headdress;
3mm crochet hook; beading needle; pinking shears; small
amounts of 4 ply in pale pink and medium pink
Knitting Nancy Penguin 2 x 4cm wicker baskets; base
1cm diameter; pink gingham ribbon 15cm (6inch) long
x 1cm wide; straw hat 7cm (2.75inch) in diameter; small
amounts 4 ply in yellow, pink, orange, green, mauve, blue;
2 toothpicks; 2 round glass beads for ends of the toothpicks
to make the knitting needles; superglue; 2mm (US 0)
knitting needles; polyester cotton; 2 x 2.25mm (US 1) dpn
Grumpy Grandpa Fishing Penguin small wood bucket;
fishing rod and lure; small amounts of 4 ply in grey, bright
green, green boucle, pale grey; 3 x 0.5cm buttons for front
of waistcoat
Clinker the Clown Penguin 1 x 1cm diameter orange felt
ball; small amounts 4 ply in blue, bright green, bright pink,
orange, yellow, red, purple; 2 x 2.25mm (US 1) dpn
Penguin Body (body and head worked in one)

Using 2.75mm (US 2) needles and black yarn, cast on 6 sts
1st row – Purl.
2nd row – Inc in each st [12sts]
3rd row –Purl.
4th row –Inc in each st [24sts]
5th row – Purl.
6th row – *K1, inc in next st, rep from * to end [36sts]
7th row – Purl.
8th row - *Inc in 1 st, K2, rep from * to end [48sts]
Work a further 19 rows st st, beg with a purl row.
Next row – K10, skp, K2tog, K20, skp, K2tog, K10 [44sts]
Next row – Purl.

Next row – Purl.
Next row - *K2tog, K1, rep from * to end [8sts]
Next row – Purl.
Next row – K2tog all across.
Break off yarn, thread through rem sts, pull up tightly
and fasten off (this end is the wing tip). Sew the cast on
end to the penguins shoulder when you are making up.
To make up, with wrong sides together carefully sew
the row ends together using mattress stitch.
Feet and Beak

Using 2.75mm (US 2) needles and yellow yarn, cast on
12 sts.
1st row – Purl.
2nd row – Knit.
3rd row – Purl.
4th row – K2tog all across.
Break off yarn, thread through rem sts, pull up tightly
and fasten off. Use the length of yarn for sewing up. Use
a little polyester filling to stuff the beak and the feet and
close the seam with small stitches. Ensure your feet are
the same size. Set aside.
Next row – K9, skp, K2tog, K18, skp, K2tog, K9 [40sts] To Make Up
Next row – Purl. Take the penguin body piece and with right sides together
Next row – K8, skp, K2tog, K16, skp, K2tog, K8 [36sts] sew two thirds of the back seam closed. Turn the right
Next row – Purl. way out. Stuff your penguin firmly. Turn him or her
Next row - *K2tog, K1, rep from * to end [24sts] around as you go to ensure you have a lovely roly poly
Next row – Purl. shape. Penguins are not slim. When you are happy with
Next row – *K1, inc in next st, rep from * to end [36sts] the shape of the body and the head, finish the back seam
Work 11 rows st st beg with a purl row. as invisibly as possible. Pin the tummy piece on the front
Next row - *K2tog, K1, rep from * to end [24sts] of the penguin, ensuring that you have it the right way
Next row – Purl. up. Plenty of pins really do help. Ensure that you have
Next row – K2tog all across. stretched it out to make a nice rounded shape. Stitch all
Next row – P2tog all across. Break off yarn. Thread round, using white yarn and very small stitches. Now sew
through rem sts, pull up tightly and fasten off. on the flippers at the shoulder point, this is at neck level.
Tummy Piece Next, pin the beak centrally in the face and stitch all round
Using 2.75mm (US 2) Needles and white yarn, cast on using very small stitches. Finally place the feet together at
8 sts (you are starting at the lower edge, pin this end at the front of the body and stitch in place. You are now ready
the feet end when finished). to sew the eyes. Either place a pin where you want each
1st row – Purl. eye to go or make a little mark with a chalk pencil. This
2nd row – Inc in each st [16sts] will ensure your penguin’s eyes are even. You don’t want
Work 17rows st st beg with a knit row. him having a cross-eyed look (or maybe you do). Take 3
Next row – skp, K12, K2tog [14sts] strands of white embroidery cotton and make a bullion
Next row – Purl. loop knot with approx. 20 wraps where you have made
Next row - skp, K10, K2tog [12sts] your pencil mark. Do the same on the other side. Sew the
Next row – Purl. black bead in the centre of the bullion loop knot. Your
Next row – K2tog all across. penguin is now ready to dress.
Cast off.
Accessories for Chef Penguin
Penguin Flippers (Make 2) Chef Hat
Using 2.75mm (US 2) needles and black yarn, cast on 8 sts. Using 2.75mm (US 2) needles and cream yarn cast on
1st row – Purl. 34sts, work 4 rows st st, beg with a knit row.
2nd row – inc in each st [16sts] Next row – Purl.
Work 13 rows st st beg with a purl row. Beg with a purl row work 7 rows st st.
Next row - *K2tog, K2 rep from * to end [12sts] Next row- Inc in every st [68sts]

Next row – Purl.
Next row - *K1, inc in next st rep from * to end.
Work 3 rows st st beg with a purl row.
Next row - * Sl 1, K2tog, psso, rep from * to last st K1
[35sts]
Next row – Purl.
Sixteen fantastic Australian and international
Next row – K2tog, all across to last st, K1. tutors are offering a range of 2 and 4 day
Break off yarn, thread through rem sts, pull up tightly workshops: felting, jewellery, printing, books,
and fasten off. With right sides together sew back seam, dyeing, stitching by hand and machine, knitting,
turn up the hem to the inside at the purl row. Add a fabric and fibre.
little polyester fibre filling to puff up the top of the chef Tutors:
hat and pop on to the top of the penguin’s head. Stitch Ailie Snow (NZ), Jane Callender (UK),
carefully all round, ensuring that the seam is at the back. Catherine O’Leary, Michael Shiell, Vicki Mason,
Nicola Henley (Ireland), Nicole Mallalieu,
Apron (Main Piece) Trace Willans, Ken Smith, Jean Gauger (US),
Using 2.75mm (US 2) needles and cream yarn, cast on Jude Skeers, Rachel Meek, Carolyn Sullivan,
16sts. Work two rows garter st. Jeannette DeNicolis Meyer (USA), Tony Dyer,
Next row – Knit. Velma Bolyard (USA).
Next row – K1, purl to last st, K1. Halls Gap is a place of inspiration on the edge of the stunning
Rep these two rows a further 5 times. Work 3 rows Grampians National Park which offers a range of
accommodation style sand levels for you to choose from. Join
garter st. Cast off. other students and tutors for evening meals, exhibitions,
Apron (Ties) petanque, bushwalks, students and tutor Twilight Market etc.
Traders selling specialist textile and art supplies will be at
Using 2.75mm (US 2) needles and cream yarn, cast on Halls Gap Centenary Hall - 8.30 am - 5 pm daily.
74sts. Work 3 rows garter st. Cast off. Fold the apron Early bird discount bookings close 1 Dec.
ties in half and mark the centre. Position the main piece
of the apron in the centre of the ties, right sides together
and stitch together. Darn in any loose ends. Cross over
the ties on the back of the penguin and stitch in place.
If the apron has a tendency to curl up you may need to
add a small stitch to the front to prevent this.
stitch in place with polyester sewing cotton. Because
Necktie you are using pinking shears you will not need to hem.
Using 2.75mm (US 2) needles and red yarn cast on Take your 10 flower beads and sew them evenly around
72sts. Work 2 rows garter st. the waistband. Sew the tutu in place on the penguin.
** Next – K7, turn, knit to end.
Next –K5, turn , knit to end. Necklace
Next – K3, turn – knit to end. Take a piece of strong cotton and measure loosely
Knit all across *** around the penguins’ neck. Make it a bit longer as you
Rep from ** to *** once. will need to have enough length to finish off. Using your
Cast off. Darn in all ends. To attach to penguin, cross beading needle, slide half the pink glass beads on to the
over in the front, under the beak and place a little stitch thread and then the small pink button, then the rest of
there to hold in place. the glass beads. Carefully place on the penguin and then
finish off.
Stitch the rolling pin to one flipper and the wood bowl
to the other. Your penguin is now ready to head to the Headdress
kitchen for a bit of shouting and fish flinging. You will be placing bright pink on the outside and pale
pink on the inside and sewing one of the pale pink
Accessories for Ballerina Penguin crystal beads into the centre of flower.
Tutu Using 3mm Crochet hook and dark pink make 4 ch, join
Using 2.75mm (US 2) needles and pale pink yarn, cast on with a ss, into a ring.
70 sts. Work 2 rows garter st. Cast off. This is your tutu 1st round - (right side) 2ch, 9dc in ring with dark pink,
waistband. Take you piece of organza or tulle and run ss to top of 2ch [10sts].
a gathering thread along the top of it. Take the pinking 2nd round –Using contrast pink, 5ch, 1 tr tr in each of
shears and cut a zig zag hem line, just long enough to next 9dc, ss to top of 5ch. Fasten off. Darn in end and
touch the floor with the waistband attached. Gather the form into a nice neat circular shape. Attach to top and
threads and attach the organza to the waistband and slightly to side of penguins’ head.

Anna is a solid little dancer but no matter, she loves a bit the base of the basket. Once all flowers are in the basket,
of a twirl and if you have a beautiful outfit, who cares. stitch the basket to the other flipper.
Any aspiring dancer is sure to love her as much as I do.
Knitting Nancy carries her knitting in one basket and
Accessories for Knitting Nancy Penguin a bunch of flowers in the other. On her head she has a
Knitting for needles straw hat covered in brightly covered knitted flowers and
Using 2mm (US 0) needles and blue yarn cast on 15 leaves. She also has pink gingham ribbon tied in a bow
sts. Work in garter st for approx. 4cm, then transfer the around her neck.
knitting to the knitting needles you have made. I find
it is better to put half the sts on one needle and the Accessories for Grumpy Grandpa Fishing
other half on the other needle. Darn in the loose ends Penguin
of the yarn. Wrap the knitting around itself and pop into Scarf
one of the baskets. Pop the basket over one of Nancy’s Using 2.75mm (US 2) needles and bright green yarn
flippers and stitch in place. To make the knitting needles cast on 90st.
glue the glass beads to the end of the toothpicks. I find Knit 1 row.
superglue works best for this. You may need to give the Cast off. Darn in all ends. Knot round grandpa’s neck.
toothpicks a little bit of a sand to make them smooth.
Cap
Hat Flowers Using 2.75mm (US 2) needles and grey yarn cast on
Using 2.75mm (US 2) needles, and 4 ply colours of 36sts.
choice, cast on 18sts. Work in K1, P1 rib for 2 rows.
1st row – Knit. Next row - * Inc in 1st st , K1 , rep from * to end of row [54sts]
Next row – P2tog all across. Next row – Purl.
Break off yarn, thread through rem sts, pull up tightly Next row - * K2, inc in next st, rep from * to end of row
and fasten off. I would suggest you make 5 flowers and 4 [72sts]
leaves (1 purple, 1 yellow, 1 pink, 1 orange, 1 blue, with Next row – Purl.
green leaves). Oversew the row ends together. Work a Next row - * K7, K2tog, rep from * to end.
French knot in the centre of each flower in a contrasting Next and alt rows – Purl.
colour. Stitch the flowers to the hat interspersed with Next row - * K6, K2tog, rep from * to end.
the leaves. Next row - * K5, K2tog, rep from * to end.
Leaves Next row - * K4, K2tog, rep from * to end.
Using 2.75mm (US 2) needles and green yarn, cast on 8sts. Next row – K2tog all across.
1st row – K2, K4 winding yarn twice round needle on Purl 1 row.
each st, K2. Next row - K2tog all across
Cast off, dropping the extra wound around strand on Break of yarn, thread through rem sts, pull up tightly
each of the centre 4 sts. Darn in all ends. Stitch to hat. and fasten off.
Cap Peak
Flowers for Basket Using 2.75mm (US 2) needles and grey yarn cast on 12sts.
(Make 4 - 2 Pink, 1 Orange, 1 Yellow) Work 3 rows st st beg with a purl row.
Using 2.75mm (US 2) needles and yarn colour of choice Next row – K2tog, at beg and end of row.
cast on 6sts. Next row – Purl.
Next row – Inc in every st. Next row –K2tog all across.
Next row – Purl. Next row – Purl.
Next row – Inc in every st [24sts] Next row – Inc in every st.
Next row – Purl Next row – Inc in 1st st purl to last st, inc in last st.
Next row – K2tog all across Work 6 rows st st beg with a knit row. Cast off. Stitch
Next row – Purl centre back seam of main piece of cap. Fold peak in half,
Next row – K2tog all across wrong sides together, stich to underside of hat, peak
Next row – Purl facing out.
Next row – K2tog all across Cap Bobble
Break off yarn thread through rem sts, pull up tightly Using 2.25mm (US 1) dpn and light grey yarn cast on 1 st.
and fasten off. Make up as for hat flowers. Inc, into front, back, front, back, of this st [5sts].
Stems Next row – Knit
Using 2.25mm (US 1) dpn and green yarn cast on 3 sts. Next row – Purl
Make 3cm of I-Cord. Fasten off. Attach one end of the Next row – Knit
I-Cord to the base of each flower and the other end to Next row – Purl

Next row – Knit, don’t turn, slip *2nd st over the 1st st, 36sts. Work 4 rows st st beg with a knit row.
repeat from * until 1 st rem on needle, fasten off. Run a Next row – Purl
gathering thread around the outside edge of the bobble Beg with a purl row, work a further 3 rows green and
and draw up to form a nice tight ball. Attach to the top then 2 rows blue in st st.
of the cap. Work stripe pattern as follows whilst keeping decreases
correct (2 rows of each colour pink, orange, yellow, red,
Waistcoat Back purple, green, blue, pink).
Using 2.75mm (US 2) needles and green boucle yarn Dec row – K2tog, K14, K2tog tbl, K2tog, K14, K2tog tbl.
cast on 42sts. Next and alt rows – Purl
Work in garter st for 2.5cm (1inch). Dec row – K2tog, K12, K2tog tbl, K2tog, K12, K2tog tbl.
Cast of 8sts at beg of next 2 rows [26sts]. Dec row – K2tog, K10, K2tog tbl, K2tog, K10, K2tog tbl.
Work a further 2cm garter st. Dec row – K2tog, K8, K2tog tbl, K2tog, K8, K2tog tbl.
Cast on 8sts at beg of next 2 rows. Cont decreasing in this manner on alt rows until 6 sts
Knit 1 row. Cast off. rem. Break off yarn, thread through rem sts, pull up
Waistcoat Fronts (make 2) tightly and fasten off. With right sides together, stitch
Using 2.75mm (US 2) needles and green boucle yarn back seam. Darn in all ends and turn up hem to the
cast on 5 sts. Knit 1 row. inside. Attach the orange felt ball to the top. Stitch the
Next row - Inc 1 st at beg of next row. hat to the top of his head using very small stitches.
Next row - Inc 1 st at end of next row. Pom Poms
Rep these 2 rows until there are 18 sts. Make 4 (orange, pink, green, blue)
Knit 1 row without shaping. Using 2.25mm (US 1) dpn and coloured yarns cast on 1 st.
Next row – Cast off 6 sts at straight edge. Inc, into front, back, front, back, of this st [5sts].
Cont in garter st without further shaping until front Next row – Knit
edge measures 1.5cm or just over ½ inch. Next row – Purl
**Next row – Knit to last 2sts, K2tog (front edge) Next row – Knit
***Next row – Knit. Next row – Purl
Rep these 2 rows once. Next row – Knit, don’t turn, slip *2nd st over the 1st st,
Knit 2 rows. repeat from * until 1 st rem on needle, fasten off. Run a
Rep from ** to *** 3 times then cast off. gathering thread around the outside edge of the bobble
Sew shoulder seams. Sew sides of fronts and backs and draw up to form a nice tight ball. Stitch the 4 Pom
together. Pop on to the penguin and stitch in place on Poms evenly to Clinker’s tummy. He is now ready for
the tummy if you don’t want the waistcoat to be �lapping the Big Top.
about. Sew three tiny buttons down one front. Attach
the little wood bucket to one �lipper and the �ishing line Clinker has a brightly coloured
(in this case a broken dpn and some sewing thread plus collar frill and a hat with a bright
a �ishing lure) to the other �lipper. orange pom pom. The collar is not
dif�icult and looks spectacular but
This little penguin has his �lat cap on and his waistcoat it does have a lot of ends to darn
and scarf. He is all set to have some �ishing fun, and not in. If you really hate darning in
get cold doing it. ends you could just make it in
one or two colours.
Accessories for Clinker the Clown Penguin
Collar Frill
Using 2.75mm (US 2) needles and green yarn cast on
10sts, then knit 2 rows garter st.
Next row - ** Cast off 7sts, knit to end, turn , K3, join
in blue, cast on 7sts, Knit 2 rows, rep from ** using
the following colour scheme, pink, orange, yellow, red, Congratulations,
purple, green. your amazing
Complete 3 repeats of the colour scheme and then cast Penguins are
off. Darn in all ends, this is a bit of a �iddle as there are 2 now complete.
ends for each colour but it is worthwhile so take your time. I hope you
Wrap the collar frill around its neck and stitch in place. enjoyed these Drop
Stitch Original Designs. For
Hat assistance with patterns contact
Using 2.75mm (US 2) needles and green yarn, cast on [email protected]

Cloche2U: 2PLAIN
hats
or Fancy
By Melissa Deutsch Scott
Y31 Cloche Hat pg22.indd 22 7/11/2013 9:28:51 PM

Yarn Hat A SWTC Vespera 100% wool (50g/1.75oz,
150m/164yds, 12 wpi, equiv Aust 5ply, CYCA #2, Sport
weight). 1 skein Colour 678.
Hat B Stranded in Oz Luxury Hand-Painted 50% Alpaca +
50% Merino (50g/1.75oz, 133m/144yds, 12wpi, equiv Aust
5ply, CYCA #2, Sport weight). 1 skein Autumn Serendipity.
Needles and Notions 3.75 mm (US 5) 40cm (16inch)
circular needle; 3.25mm (US 3) 40cm (16inch) spare
circular needle; 3.75 and 3.25 (US 5 and 4) DPNs; tapestry
needle; stitch markers; For Hat A 3mm crochet hook.
Size To fit women’s average head 58cm (20inch)
circumference.
Tension 24 sts to 10cm (4inch) in st st.
Abbreviations cdd=centred double decrease, slip 2 sts
as if to k2tog, k1, p2sso.
Simple shaping with a retro feel—these cloches are

designed to be plain and simple or slightly fancier,
depending on your knitter’s mood.
The hats are worked from the top down, which is useful
when you’re not confident on the meterage in the stash
(the border can be worked in another colourway to nice
effect). Both hats are worked basically the same until the
border, with variations noted in brackets for Hat B.
Double Pique Stitch Pattern

It is worked circularly (multiple of 2st over 4 rnds)
Rnd 1: k1, p1
Rnds 2 and 4: knit
Rnd 3: p1, k1

I-cord
Use DPNs: cast on 4 sts. Do Not Turn. Knit 4. * Do Not
Turn. Slide sts to rt end of needle, k4*; repeat from * to
* until length specified or desired.
I-cord Cast Off

Cast on 4 sts at end of left needle. Do Not Turn. * With
dpn, knit 3, ssk (working last cast on st and 1 hat st to
be cast off). * Do Not Turn. Slide sts to rt end of needle;
repeat from * to * until all hat sts cast off. Leaving an
end for weaving in, cut yarn. Thread yarn through
remaining st.
Cast On for Cloches

With 3.75mm dpns, cast on 8 sts.
Set Up Rnd: k1, * m1, k1 (centre st), m1,* repeat from *
to * to end [16 sts]. Knit 1 rnd. Mark 4 centre sts. Place
marker to denote beg of rnd.
Rnd 1 (inc rnd): knit to centre st, *m1, knit centre st, m1,
knit to next inc point;* repeat. After 4th set of increases,
knit to end of rnd.
Rnd 2: Knit.
Work as established, working an increase at each side
of the four increase points (8 increases every other
rnd) until there are 120 sts. Final inc rnd: increase only
4sts as * knit to marker, m1, k to next marker;* repeat.
After 4th inc is worked, knit to end of rnd [124 total sts].
Change to 3.75mm (US 5) circular needle and work
22 (19) rnds without increases from last inc rnd, AND
working one PURL st at each of the four corners.

Hat A (green undertones)
Change to 3.25mm (US 3) circular needle: k14, cdd; *
knit to one st before next corner purl st, cdd* : repeat
from * to *; knit to end of rnd [116 sts]. Work 12 rnd in
double pique st. Cast off.
Crochet Chain Bow: chain 48, attach to hat at top of
border (as shown in photograph) by chaining into side
of edge with a couple of chains, then, chain 48. Your
chain should be around 20cm(8inch). Tie into double
bow, secure to hat. Weave in ends.
Hat B (rust coloured)

I-cord bow tie: With 3.25mm (US 3) DPNs and yarn
from other end of skein, cast on 4 sts. Work 34 rows of
i-cord. Join to hat then work i-cord cast off for all hat sts.
Work another 34 rows of i-cord. Cut yarn end; thread
yarn end in remaining 4 sts. Pull to secure. Tie i-card
bow as seen in photograph.
Bottom band: With 3.25mm (US 3) circular needle, pick
up and knit 124 sts. Knit 1 rnd. Work 8 rnds in double
pique st. Work i-cord cast off. Weave in any loose ends.

Putting the New Row 6
Row 5
Row 4
ABABABABABABABABABABABABABABAB
BABABABABABABABABABABABABABABA
WOVEN Row 3
Row 2
BABABABABABABABABABABABABABABA
GARTER STITCH Row 1 BABABABABABABABABABABABABABABA
Read Row 1 and following odd rows right to left, Row 2 and
to Work following even rows left to right .With an even number

of stitches every row starts with Yarn A.
By Lynne Johnson
I was keen to find a project to try this new stitch out book ‘Freeform Knitting and Crochet’. This time I called
fully (it has been fully explained in the last two issues of it the Fold’n Rolled hat.
Yarn Magazine, but basically all you are doing is working You’ll notice that there are no specific yarn or needle
with two different coloured yarns labelled as A & B and sizes mentioned. Now that you’ve done some sample
carrying yarn A OVER yarn B in every row – with no purl pieces of Woven Garter with different yarns you’ll have
rows worked). A hat seemed a possibility and Godmother an idea of what sort of fabric you want and how many
Phyl’s folder seemed to be the first place to look for stitches and rows you will need.
ideas. The folder was full of pages of patterns torn from But just in case you’re ready to go right now here’s a short
magazines and newspapers. There were hand written cut. With medium size needles in the 4mm range and yarns
notes swapped at tennis club or at morning tea with in the 8 ply-DK range these 70 stitches should give you
friends. Phyl Rogerson was a great knitter and she would an average adult size hat. For a child size hat use smaller
have loved Woven Garter. Sadly she died before I found it. needles in the 3.25-3mm range and sock weight-4 ply yarns.
There was a scrap of paper in the folder with the
first nine rows of a pattern for a Beret on shortened Cast on 70 stitches loosely
rows in garter stitch. I did a version in Woven Garter
and learned a lot about short rows! They worked well Row 1 Woven Garter [WG] to brim end
and I realised just how many different hats could be Row 2 [Front] WG to last 3 stitches at crown end. *Turn
made with the many different fabrics the stitch offered. Row 4 WG to last 7 stitches at crown end, turn as in
Chunky thick warm hats, fine drapey glitzy snood-type Row 2
hats, soft snug hats for babies. Row 5 WG to last 5 stitches at brim end. Turn
People enjoyed knitting Godmother Phyl’s Short Row Row 6 WG to crown end
Hat and encouraged me to get the design out there. Then Rows 7 to 10 as Rows 1 to 4
Jenny Dowde invited me to put some designs in her first Row 11 WG to brim end
Y31 Woven Garter pg26.indd 26 7/11/2013 9:33:12 PM

Row 12 WG to crown end
*Turn: See instructions in the Tips for Woven Garter section.
These 12 Rows provide the shaping for the Hat. Repeat

them 10 times. Cast off loosely using a large needle. Join
seam, gather in crown and decorate to taste. The brim
can be rolled once or twice, again according to taste.
It is possible to slightly jig the numbers to achieve the
perfect �it, using different needles and yarn weights. The
paler hat used 50g each of Fawn and also White yarn
that was between a 5-8ply, with 4mm needles, 50 sts
cast on and 132 rows (10 repeats) worked. The darker
child hat used 40g each of Black and also Variegated
sock wool, with 3.5mm needles, 60 sts cast on and 144
rows (11 repeats) worked.
Tips for Woven Garter

If either Yarn A or B is much thinner than the other
cast on with both as though they were one.
The edges of Woven Garter fabric pieces can be
butted and sewn together with a �lat stitch such that
the seam and stitches are almost impossible to see.
Take up the slack by giving the yarn a light tug when
starting the second stitch of each row, as it gives a
�irmer edge.
Count the number of rows in Woven Garter by
counting the ridges and doubling it. Count the
stitches in a row by counting the number of Yarn A
dashes and doubling it.
Short row Turns are done as follows. Bring both
yarns to the front, slip the next stitch on the L needle
purlwise onto the R needle. Take both yarns back,
slip the stitch back to the L needle. Turn your work.
Take the yarns to the back of your work and knit on.
Y31 Woven Garter pg26.indd 27 7/11/2013 9:33:43 PM

Alana Clifton-Cunningham is a fulltime
academic within the Fashion and Textile
Design course at the University of Technology,
Sydney. After graduating from UTS in 1993,
Alana worked as a designer in the fashion
industry before taking on her current position
at UTS in 2000. Her specialisation is knitting,
which looks beyond traditional knitted
coverings for the body. Alana completed a
Masters in Design (Hons) through the College
of Fine Art, University of NSW in 2008.
The perception of knitting has shifted over

the last twenty years, with designers now
exploring non-traditional materials, forms
and processes. Knitwear practitioners are
crossing over and often working within multi-
disciplinary areas of design. While these
designers are exploring new technologies
such as machine knitting processes, the
handmade qualities are still often evident
through utilising hand assembly and post-
production methods of making.
The work that I create examines
knitting as a form of constructed textiles
and explores the integral relationship it
has with fashion (textiles), as well as the
knit exhibition-A Clifton interplay between design, craft and art. It
pics by Alana Clifton-Cunningham explores contemporary knitwear design
functioning within the high fashion area
Profile:
of design, and challenges traditionally
established rules and perceptions. It can
potentially blur the boundaries of what is
Alana Clifton-
considered fashion design, into art. While
conceptual fashion design has always been
a debatable issue among fashion scholars
Cunningham
(as to whether it can be viewed as fashion,
anti-fashion or possibly art) this work
observes the influences of modernity and
By Alana Clifton-Cunningham deconstruction, in relation to knitting.
Knitting has the ability to be manipulated
and molded into two and three-dimensional
topographical complexities 1 topographical complexities 3 topographical complexities 4

pics by Alana Clifton-Cunningham pics by Alana Clifton-Cunningham pics by Alana Clifton-Cunningham
Y31 Alana Clifton profile pg28.indd 28 7/11/2013 9:34:45 PM

gloves
leg wrap
(photographer
and muff
Seung Rok Baek)
(photographer
Seung Rok Baek)
armsling
(photographer
Seung Rok Baek)
Collar (photographer Seung Rok Baek)
shoulder wrap
(photographer
Seung Rok Baek)
neck pods
(photographer
Seung Rok Baek)

Second Flourish Series
Glance 2 Earlier work titled Flourish I (2006), and Flourish II
(photographer (2008), examined historical dress components, with the
Jennifer Chua). interpretations recreated through knitted outcomes.
Historically female dress was formed as an assemblage
of individual garment components. These components
such as collars, cuffs, pockets, separate sleeves and
stomachers were designed and constructed in a
manner that allowed them to be transient. By detaching
them from outer or under garments through a process
of pinning or using simple tying mechanisms, they
could be easily interchanged with existing garments,
laundered, repaired and redesigned.
These dress components were often considered
treasured pieces, which could feature ornate
embellishments such as embroidery of silk and gold
thread, and beading utilising precious and semi-precious
stones. The quality of material and the construction
techniques were far superior to that used for general
clothing and undergarments. With care, these pieces
could have an extended shelf-life and be kept as family
heirlooms over several generations, providing the
fashion of the period did not change radically.
The Flourish series consisted of pockets, stomachers
and sleeves which were highly embellished with
traditional embroidery and laser cut timber veneer.
Within the work I create, I continue to push the
boundaries regarding the use of additional materials.
Second Skin
The work created for the series Second Skin (2006-
2007) investigated hand and machine knitting
techniques appropriating patterning techniques from
the tradition of scarification. The work interprets body
scarification in the form of tribal markings, which
allows each piece to transform into a second skin to
convey interpretive narratives and visual messages.
The ‘body pieces’ incorporate elements of mixed media
and new technologies including laser cut timber veneer
and leather, and explore juxtapositions such as hard
and soft, rough and smooth, mass and gradation.
The traditional practice of body scarification is a
tactile language inscribed onto the surface of the skin.
In some cultures scarring signifies a ‘rite of passage’
such as sexual maturity, the journey from childhood
to adulthood, or social acceptance. Other forms of
Second Glance 3 (photographer Jennifer Chua). scarification serve the purpose of tribal identification,
spiritual protection, or aesthetic beautification.
forms through the knitting/making process. It is very
versatile and can be highly patterned and textured, Topographical Complexities
making it a unique medium. Through hand and machine In 2012 I was invited to participate as a guest artist
knitting methods of making, the work interrogates the in the Fashion Art Biennale in Seoul, Korea. The work
notion of ‘deconstruction’ by looking past the traditional produced for this exhibition examined the broad theme
knitted coverings for the body. Knitting here functions ‘The destruction of nature’. In response to this theme,
as a vehicle for ‘deconstruction,’ with familiar garment the work titled Topographic Complexities addressed
structures transformed into disarticulated ‘body pieces’. issues relating to coral bleaching. The work was created

Flourish_II_
sleeve
(photographer
Paul Pavlou).
Photographer Paul Pavlou.
Flourish_II_pocket
(photographer Paul Pavlou).
though short row shaping a three-dimensional form in how knitting functions on the human body. There
gradating scale, that were then assembled by hand to is a still a practical nature to the work that I create,
form an arm covering. but I hope to shift people’s thoughts and views with
The work that I do will continue to address a variety regards to what knitting should be, especially within
of issues and concepts and push the boundaries of a fashion context.

with shawl collar and tie belt
By Wendy Knight
Y31 Vest pg32.indd 32 7/11/2013 9:38:31 PM

Sleeveless Jacket with Left Front
Note: If joining a new ball at front edge, make join 4 sts
shawl collar and tie belt in from the edge to keep the edge neat (ends can be sewn
in vertically along rib line).
Yarn Cleckheaton Artisan 50% wool, 50% acrylic
Using 5mm needles, cast on 40(44, 48, 52, 60, 64, 68)
(50g/1.75oz, 75m/82yds, 8wpi, equiv Austr 12 ply, CYCA sts.
#5, Heavy Worsted weight) Colour #16 Smoke 11 (13, 15, Row 1: K1, *P2, K2, rep from * to last 3 sts, P1, K2.
17, 19, 21, 23) balls. Row 2: With yarn at front sl 2 purlways, *P2, K2, rep
Needles and notions 1 pair 5mm (US 8) needles, wool from * to last 2 sts, P2.
needle for sewing seams. Rep last 2 rows twice.
Tension 16.5 sts and 24 rows to 10cm (4inch) in stocking st Row 7: (K8, inc in next st) 1(1, 2, 2, 1, 1, 2) times, knit
Finished measurements Vest to fit bust 70(80, 90, 100,
to last 19 sts, (P2, K2) 4 times, P1, K2. 41[45, 50, 54, 61,
110, 120, 130) cm or 27.5(31.5, 35.5, 39, 43.3, 47.25, 51)
inch; bust measures 75(85, 95, 105, 115, 125, 135) cm or
65, 70] sts.
29.5(33.5, 37.5, 41.3, 45.25, 49.25, 53)inch; length 72(73, Row 8: With yarn at front sl 2 purlways, (P2, K2) 4
74, 75, 76, 77, 78) cm or 28.3(28.75, 29, 29.5, 30, 30.3, times, P2, K1, purl to end.
30.75)inch Row 9: Knit to last 19 sts, (P2, K2) 4 times, P1, K2.
Rep last 2 rows until work measures same as Back to
Back beg of armhole edging, ending with row 8.
Using 5mm needles, cast on 63(71, 79, 87, 99, 107, 115) sts. Beg Armhole Edging
Row 1: K1, *P2, K2, rep from * to last 2 sts, P2. Row 1: (K2, P2) 2(3, 3, 4, 5, 5, 6) times, knit to last 19
Rep last row 5 more times. sts, patt to end.
Row 7: Knit, inc 0(0, 2, 2, 0, 0, 2) sts evenly across. Row 2: Patt 21, purl to last 7(11, 11, 15, 19, 19, 23) sts,
63(71, 81, 89, 99, 107, 117) sts. (K2, P2) 1(2, 2, 3, 4, 4, 5) times, K2, P1.
Work in stocking st (beg with a purl row) until Back Rep last 2 rows twice.
measures 50cm (or 20inch or length desired) from Row 7: Cast off 3(7, 7, 11, 15, 15, 19) sts in patt one st
cast-on edge, ending with a purl row. rem on RH needle, then K2, P2, knit to last 19 sts, patt to
Beg Armhole Edging end. 38[38, 43, 43, 46, 50, 51] sts.
Row 1: (K2, P2) 2(3, 3, 4, 5, 5, 6) times, knit to last 7(11, Row 8: Patt 21, purl to last 4 sts, K2, P2.
11, 15, 19, 19, 23) sts, (P2, K2) 1(2, 2, 3, 4, 4, 5) times, Row 9: With yarn at back sl 2 purlways, K1, P2, sl 1, K1,
P2, K1. psso, knit to last 19 sts, patt to end.
Row 2: (P2, K2) 2(3, 3, 4, 5, 5, 6) times, purl to last 7(11, Rep last 2 rows 4(3, 6, 4, 4, 6, 5) times, then row 8 once
11, 15, 19, 19, 23) sts, (K2, P2) 1(2, 2, 3, 4, 4, 5) times, more. 33[34, 36, 38, 41, 43, 45] sts.
K2, P1. Next row: With yarn at back, sl 2 purlways, K1, P2, knit
Rep last 2 rows twice. to last 19 sts, patt to end.
Row 7: Cast off 3(7, 7, 11, 15, 15, 19) sts in patt one st Keeping edges correct, work a further 5(7, 1, 5, 5, 1, 3)
rem on RH needle, then K2, P2, knit to last 7(11, 11, 15, rows without shaping.
19, 19, 23) sts, patt to end. Next row: Patt 5, knit to last 23 sts, (P2, K2) 5 times,
Row 8: Cast off 3(7, 7, 11, 15, 15, 19) sts in patt one st P1, K2.
rem on RH needle, then P2, K2, purl to last 4 sts, K2, P2. Next row: With yarn at front, sl 2 purlways, (P2, K2) 5
57[57, 67, 67, 69, 77, 79] sts. times, purl to last 4 sts, K2, P2.
Row 9: With yarn at back, sl 2 purlways, K1, P2, sl 1, K1, Rep last 2 rows 14(15, 16, 7, 7, 7, 7) times.
psso, knit to last 7 sts, K2tog, K1, P2, K2. Sizes 100, 110, 120, 130 only:
Row 10: With yarn at front, sl 2 purlways, P1, K2, purl Next row: Patt 5, knit to last 27 sts, P2, K2, patt to end.
to last 4 sts, K2, P2. Next row: With yarn at front, sl 2 purlways, (P2, K2) 6
Rep last 2 rows 4(3, 6, 4, 4, 6, 5) times. 47[49, 53, 57, times, purl to last 4 sts, K2, P2.
59, 63, 67] sts. Rep last 2 rows (10, 11, 12, 13) times.
Next row: With yarn at back, sl 2 purlways, K1, P2, knit All Sizes:
to last 4 sts, P2, K2. Shape Shoulder
Next row: With yarn at front, sl 2 purlways, P1, K2, purl Cast off 6(6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 9) sts at beg of next row, then 6(6,
to last 4 sts, K2, P2. 7, 7, 8, 8, 9) sts at beg of foll alt row. 21[22, 23, 24, 26,
Keeping edge patts correct, work a further 34(38, 34, 27, 27] sts.
42, 44, 42, 46) rows without shaping. Beg Collar
Shape Shoulders Row 1: Patt to last 6 sts, W&T.
Cast off 6(6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 9) sts at beg of next 2 rows, then Row 2: Patt to end.
6(6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9) sts at beg of foll 2 rows. Row 3: Patt to last 12 sts, W&T.
Cast off rem 23(25, 27, 29, 29, 31, 31) sts. Row 4: Patt to end.
Y31 Vest pg32.indd 33 7/11/2013 9:39:25 PM

rem on RH needle, then P2, K2, purl to last 19 sts, patt to
end. 38[38, 43, 43, 46, 50, 51] sts.
Row 9: Patt 18, knit to last 7 sts, K2tog, K1, P2, K2.
Row 10: With yarn at front sl 2 purlways, P1, K2, purl to
last 19 sts, patt to end.
Rep last 2 rows 4(3, 6, 4, 4, 6, 5) times. 33[34, 36, 38,
41, 43, 45] sts.
Next row: Patt 18, knit to last 4 sts, P2, K2.
Keeping edges correct, work a further 5(7, 1, 5, 5, 1, 3)
rows without shaping.
Next row: Patt 18, K2, P2, knit to last 4 sts, P2, K2.
Next row: With yarn at front sl 2 purlways, P1, K2, purl
to last 23 sts, (K2, P2) 5 times, K1, P2.
Rep last 2 rows 14(15, 16, 7, 7, 7, 7) times, then first of
these rows 1(1, 1, 0, 0, 0, 0) times.
Sizes 100, 110, 120, 130 only:
Next row: Patt 22, K2, P2, knit to last 4 sts, P2, K2.
Next row: With yarn at front sl 2 purlways, P1, K2, purl
to last 27 sts, K2, P2, patt to end.
Rep last 2 rows (10, 11, 12, 13) times, then first of these
rows once more.
All Sizes:
Shape Shoulder
Cast off 6(6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 9) sts at beg of next row, then 6(6,
7, 7, 8, 8, 9) sts at beg of foll alt row. 21[22, 23, 24, 26,
27, 27] sts.
Begin Collar
Row 1: Patt to last 6 sts, W&T.
Row 2: Patt to end.
Row 3: Patt to last 12 sts, W&T.
Work 2 rows across all sts. Row 4: Patt to end.
Rep last 6 rows 8(9, 10, 11, 11, 12, 12) times. Work 2 rows across all sts.
Cast off loosely in patt. Rep last 6 rows 8(9, 10, 11, 11, 12, 12) times.
Cast off loosely in patt.
Right Front
Using 5mm needles, cast on 40(44, 48, 52, 60, 64, 68) Tie Belt
sts. Note: Keep both edges neat by joining a new ball 4 sts in
Row 1: With yarn at back sl 2 purlways, *K2, P2, rep from the edge (as before).
from * to last 2 sts, K2. Using 5mm needles, cast on 18 sts.
Row 2: P1, *K2, P2, rep from * to last 3 sts, K1, P2. Row 1: With yarn at front, sl 2 purlways, (P2, K2) 4
Rep last 2 rows twice. times.
Row 7: With yarn at back sl 2 purlways, (K2, P2) 4 Row 2: With yarn at front, sl 2 purlways, P1, (K2, P2) 3
times, knit to last 9(9, 18, 18, 9, 9, 0) sts, (inc in next st, times, K3.
K8) 1(1, 2, 2, 1, 1, 2) times. 41[45, 50, 54, 61, 65, 70] sts. Rep last 2 rows until belt measures 150(160, 170, 180,
Row 8: Purl to last 19 sts, (K2, P2) 4 times, K1, P2. 190, 200, 210) cm (or 59, 63, 67, 71, 75, 79, 83inch or
Row 9: With yarn at back sl 2 purlways, (K2, P2) 4 length desired) from beg. Cast off.
times, knit to end.
Rep last 2 rows until work measures same as Back to Belt Keepers (make 2)
beg of armhole edging, ending with row 8. Using 5mm needles, cast on 28 sts.
Beg Armhole Edging Cast off loosely.
Row 1: Patt 18, knit to last 7(11, 11, 15, 19, 19, 23) sts,
(P2, K2) 1(2, 2, 3, 4, 4, 5) times, P2, K1. Finishing
Row 2: (P2, K2) 2(3, 3, 4, 5, 5, 6) times, purl to last 19 Do not press. Join side seams. Join centre back collar
sts, patt 19. seam, then sew in position across back neck, easing in
Rep last 2 rows twice, then row 1 once more. any fullness. Join ends of belt keepers, then sew to side
Row 8: Cast off 3(7, 7, 11, 15, 15, 19) sts in patt one st seams at waist level.

Slimline Hoodie with
Lace and Diamond Panels By Lorraine O’Brien
(Lobly Arts)
Y31 Hoodie pg35.indd 35 7/11/2013 9:41:49 PM

Slimline Hoodie
With 2.75mm (US 2) straight needles,
cast on 105(115,125) sts. Knit 19 rows
garter st (1st row is WS).
with Lace and Place Pattern Panels

Row 1 (RS): K1 (6, 11), *row 1 of Trellis
Pattern (3sts), row 1 of Diamond Pattern
Diamond Panels (17sts)*, rep 4 times from * to * (five

diamond patterns in all), row 1 of Trellis
By Lorraine O’Brien (Lobly Arts) Pattern, K1 (6, 11).
Row 2: Purl.
Yarn Beautiful Silks fine slub wool (100g/3.5oz,
Last 2 rows place patterns.
600m/660yds, 21wpi, equiv Aust 2 ply, Lace weight) 4
Work a further 24 rows pattern (= 1
skeins white (350g used)
Needles and notions 2.75mm (US 2) circular needle, complete Diamond Pattern).
2.75mm (US 2) straight needles; 11 buttons (if desired, Work in st st until work measures 35cm
choose buttons prior to knitting so that buttonholes can (or desired length) ending with a purl
be made the correct size to suit the buttons); 2 stitch row. This part finishes just above your
holders; 4 stitch markers. high elbow.
Tension: 33sts and 36 rows to 10cm (4inch) in st st Increase one stitch each end of next row,
Abbreviations k2tog=knit 2 sts together as one;
then in every 4th row until there are 131
skp=slip 1 st, knit 1 st, pass the slipped st over the st just
knit; psso=pass slipped stitch over; wrap & turn=see
(141, 151) sts. Continue without further
Stitch Guide at back of magazine shaping work measures 56cm (or desired
Measurements to fit bust102 (108, 113)cm or 40 (42.5, length), ending with a purl row. Cast off 8
44.5)inch; garment length 69(70-71)cm (not including hood) sts at beginning of next two rows. Leave
rem 115(125, 135) sts on a stitch holder.
Trellis Pattern (3sts)
Worked either side of the Lace Diamond Pattern, on Body
front panels and between diamond patterns on the Using circular 2.75mm (US 2) needle,
sleeves. cast on 338(356, 374) sts.
Row 1: yo, (sl 1, k2tog, psso), yo. Note: 9 sts at each end form the front bands
Row 2: Purl. and are worked in garter stitch. The body
These 2 rows form trellis pattern repeat. is worked in one piece up to the armholes
keeping sewing up to a minimum.
Lace Diamond Pattern (17sts) Rows 1, 2, 3: knit (lower band, 1st row
Row 1: k6, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, skp, k6. is WS).
Row 2 and alt rows: Purl. Row 4 (1st buttonhole, RS): k4, k2tog,
Row 3: k5, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, skp, k5. yo, k to end of row.
Row 5: k4, (k2tog, yo) twice, k1, yo, (skp) twice, k4. Note: If using bigger buttons, make a
Row 7: k3, (k2tog, yo) twice, k3, (yo, skp) twice, k3. larger buttonhole eg k3, k2tog, yox2, skp.
Row 9: k2, (k2tog, yo) 3 times, k1, (yo, skp) 3 times, k2. On the return row, the double yo will be
Row 11: k1, (k2tog, yo) 3 times, k3, (yo, skp) 3 times, k1. knitted as 2 sts).
Row 13: k1, yo, skp, k11, k2tog, yo, k1. Continue in garter st until 19 rows have
Row 15: k2, yo, skp, k9, k2tog, yo, k2. been completed. This completes lower
Row 17: k3, yo, skp, k7, k2tog, yo, k3. band.
Row 19: k4, yo, skp, k5, k2tog, yo, k4. Place Pattern Panels
Row 21: k5, yo, skp, k3, k2tog, yo, k5. Row 1 (RS): k14, row 1 of Trellis Pattern
Row 23: k6, yo, skp, k1, k2tog, yo, k6. (3sts), row 1 of Diamond Pattern (17sts),
Row 25: k7, yo, s1, k2tog, psso, yo, k7. row 1 of Trellis Pattern (3sts), knit to last
Row 27: k17. 37 sts, Trellis Pattern (3sts), Diamond
Row 28: Purl. Pattern (17sts), Trellis Pattern (3sts), K14.
These 28 rows form diamond pattern repeat. Row 2: K9, purl to last 9 sts, k9.
Working a buttonhole (as before) in every
Slimline Hoodie 28th row from previous buttonhole and
Sleeves (make 2 the same) keeping panel patterns correct as placed,
Sleeve length at underarm is 56cm (22inch) which is continue in pattern until work measures
quite long. If you prefer a shorter sleeve adjust length 44cm (or length desired) from beg,
of first section. ending with a RS row.

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Divide for underarm
Next row (WS): Patt 86(91,96), cast off
16 sts purlwise, p 134(142,150) sts, cast
off 16 sts purlwise, patt 86(91,96).
Beg Yoke
Note: Place a stitch-marker at each join
when working next row.
With RS of each piece facing and keeping
patterns and buttonhole sequence
correct, pattern across sts in following
order – right front , first sleeve, back,
other sleeve, then left front. 536(574,
612) sts.
Purl 1 row.
Shape raglans
Row 1: *work in pattern to 3sts before
marker, skp, k1, slip marker, k1, k2tog,*
(k to 3sts before marker, skp, k1, slip
marker, k1, k2tog) 3 times, work in
pattern to end. (8 decreases in total for
the row)
Even rows: purl
Continue decreasing at these same
points on every RS row until 200 (222,
244) sts remain, ending with WS row.
Note: Choose where the last buttonhole pattern correct, work 5 rows.
needs to be and adjust if necessary – it Row 7: pattern to one st before marker, yo, k1, slip marker, k1, yo,
should be close to the end of the decreasing. pattern to end. 204 (226, 248) sts.
Beg shaping neck Increase (as before) in following 6th rows 15 times, then in following
Shape neck by using the wrap-and-turn 4th rows 15 times. 264 (286, 308) sts.
method to build up at the back of the neck Option 1: Work half way across row, fold hood in half, then graft the
and keep the fronts lower. By wrapping two halves of the hood together.
the stitch when we turn we don’t get a Option 2: Cast off all sts, fold hood in half, then sew the two halves
gaping hole and it all looks much neater. together, starting from the front bands.
(see explanation in stitch guide). Option 3: Work half way across row, fold hood in half, then work a
Row 1 (RS): work to last 10 sts, wrap & three needle cast off.
turn.
Row 2: Purl to last 10 sts, wrap & turn. Pockets (optional)
Rows 3 & 4: Work to last 14 sts, wrap & Right Pocket
turn. Using 2.75mm (US 2) needles, cast on 45 sts. Work in stocking stitch
Rows 5 & 6: Work to last 37 sts, wrap & for 9cm.
turn. Knit rows : K to last 11 sts, K2tog, K9
Rows 7 & 8: Work to last 43 sts, wrap & Purl rows: K9 sts, purl to end of row.
turn. Repeat these two rows until 19 sts remain. Cast off
Rows 9 & 10: Work to last 49 sts, wrap Left Pocket
& turn. Using 2.75mm (US 2) needles, cast on 45 sts. Work in stocking stitch
Rows 11 & 12: Work to end, picking up for 9cm.
and knitting wraps with together with Knit rows: K9, (skp), K to end of row.
the wrapped stitches. You still should Purl rows: purl to last 9 sts, K9.
have 200 (222, 244) sts. Repeat these two rows until 19 sts remain. Cast off
Purl 1 row.
Hood Finishing
Row 1: pattern 99 (110, 121) sts, yo, Sew the sleeve seams and the underarms. Darn in any loose ends.
k1, place marker, k1, yo, pattern 99 Block to shape.
(110,121). 202 (224, 246) sts. Press both pockets carefully. Sew to front of Hoodie, leaving garter
Keeping the garter stitch band and lace stitch bands open.

Bloom Shawl By Kiri FitzGerald-Hillier
Yarn Dream in Color Classy 100% Superwash Merino Abbreviations k3tog=knit 3 stitches together;
(114g/4oz. 229m/250yarns, 9wpi, equiv Aust 10ply, p2togtbl=purl two stitches together through back
CYCA #4, Worsted weight) 2 Skeins Grey Tabby (MC); of loop; pfb=purl into the front and back of the
Dream in Color Calm 100% Wool (100g/3.5 oz, 219m/ same stitch; rm=remove marker; sssk=slip 3 stitches
240yards, 9wpi, equiv Aust 10ply, CYCA #4, Worsted knitwise one at a time then slip the tip of the left
weight) 1 skein Colour Poppy (CC) needle through the front of the slipped sts and knit
Needles and notions 5mm (US 8) DPNs; 5mm (US 8) the 3 slipped stitches together
60cm circular needle; 5mm (US 8) 120cm circular needle; Notes The pattern is worked starting with the centre
4 stitch markers; tapestry needle; waste yarn; safety pin motif which is worked in the round from the centre out.
Tension 14sts and 20 rows to 10cm (4inches) in st st Garter stitch ‘wings’ are then worked in rows towards
Finished measurement 48cm (19inch) at longest the points. Stitches are picked up along the lower edge
point, 109cm (43inch) along bottom edge to centre and the edging is worked in rows.
Y31 Shawl pg40.indd 40 7/11/2013 9:45:26 PM

t
BABY
a fle
le
w
Ne
HERITAGE
Crochet jacket and knitted lace shawl
from the Patons archives.
Leaflet 0004
Central Motif
Using 5mm DPN’s and CC cast on 4 sts, place 1 st on
N1, 2 sts N2 with a stitch marker between them, 1 st
N3. Change to 60cm circular needle when number of
stitches is too great for DPN’s. Motif is worked in the
round with each round’s instructions repeated 4 times
(chart and written).
Work Motif Chart or follow written instructions below,
referring to written instructions for rounds 24 and 25
in regards to marker movement.
Round 1: k�b [8sts]

Round 2, 4 and 6: Knit
Round 3: k�b twice [16sts]
Round 5: k�b, k2, k�b [24sts]
Round 6: k
Round 7: yo, k1, [yo, k2tog] twice, yo, k1 [32sts]
Round 8: yo, k2tog
Round 9: k1, yo, k6, yo, k1 [40sts]
Round 10 and all alt rows: Knit
Round 15: k3, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, k3
[64sts]
Round 17: [k3, yo] twice, ssk, k2tog, [yo, k3] twice [72sts]
Round 19: k3, yo, k5, yo, k2tog, yo, k5, yo, k3 [84sts]
Round 21: k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, [yo, k1] 3
times, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1 [92sts]
Round 23: *[k2tog, yo] twice, k1, yo, sl1, k2tog, psso,
yo, k2tog, yo, repeat from * twice, k1, yo, ssk
Round 24: knit to last stitch, slip st purlwise, remove
marker, slip stitch back to LH needle and replace marker, Designs created in
this stitch is now the �irst stitch of round 25. [96sts] Embrace 2 ply
Round 25: [k2tog, yo] 11 times, k1, yo, (slip next st The luxurious lightweight yarn in
purlwise, remove marker, slip stitch back to LH needle a perfect blend of Merino and Silk
and replace marker, this stitch is now the �irst stitch of
round, repeat for next 2 pattern repeats) Available at all good yarn stores.
Round 26 and all alt rows: Knit VIC – Clegs, Craftee Cottage, Wondoflex Yarn Craft Centre
Round 27: p�b, p22, p�b [104sts] NSW – Black Sheep Wool N Wares, The Moderne, Hornsby Wool
& Craft QLD – Threads & More, Dewdrop Inn Arts & Crafts
Round 29: k1, [yo, k2tog] 12 times, yo, k1 [108sts] SA – Highgate Needle Nook, Hubbards Kaleidoscope, The
Round 31: p�b, p25, p�b [116sts] Patchwork Pear WA – A Good Yarn, Northam Craft Supplies,
Round 33, 35 and 37: k�b, knit to 1 st before marker, Crossways Wool & Fabrics ACT – Crafty Frog, Stitch N Time
TAS – Wool and Sew Centre, The Wool Shop.
k�b [140sts]
Phone 1800 337 032 for your nearest stockist.
Round 39: p�b, p33, p�b [148sts]
www.artwearpublications.com.au /auspinners Issue No 31 YARN 41
Y31 Shawl pg40.indd 41 7/11/2013 9:45:56 PM

Left-Hand Side ‘Wing’ Break yarn and change to MC.
Place next 111 stitches on waste yarn. Knit 37 stitches Row 15: Purl
using MC and working in rows: Row 16: Purl to 1 stitch before marker, pfb, sm, pfb, p to end
Knit 5 rows and then knit to last 5 stitches, k2tog, k3. Row 17: Purl
Repeat these 6 rows until 5 stitches remain and knit the Row 18: Knit to one stitch before marker, kfb, sm, kfb,
point as follows. knit to end
Knit 5 rows and then k2tog, k to end. Row 19: Purl
Repeat these 6 rows until 2 stitches remain. Row 20: Repeat row 18.
Knit 5 rows and then K2tog. Place this stitch on a safety Row 21: Purl to 10 sts before m, pm, p10, rm, p11, pm,
pin and break yarn. p to end [307sts].
Ride-Hand Side ‘Wing’ Work Chart A, repeating to m, work Chart B once,

Place 1st 37 stitches from Central Motif onto needle and work Chart A repeating to end or follow written
knit these stitches using MC. instructions below.
Knit 5 rows and then k3, ssk, knit to end.
Repeat these 6 rows until 5 stitches remain. Row 22: [ssk, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, k2tog] repeat until 10
Knit 5 rows and then k to last 2 sts, ssk. stitches before m, pm, ssk, k3, yo, k1, yo, k4, remove
Repeat these 6 rows until 2 stitches remain. m, k5, yo, k1, yo, k3, k2tog, pm, [ssk, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3,
Knit 5 rows and then ssk, transfer this stitch to longer k2tog] repeat to end.
circular needle; this is the first stitch for the edging. Row 23: Purl
Row 24: [ssk, k2, yo, k3, yo, k2, k2tog] repeat to m, sm,
Edging ssk, k2, yo, k3, yo, k9, yo, k3, yo, k2, k2tog, sm, [ssk, k2,
With MC and using the longer circular needle, pick-up yo, k3, yo, k2, k2tog] repeat to end.
and knit one stitch for each garter ridge along left-hand Row 25: Purl
side, knit across remaining motif stitches leaving centre Row 26: [ssk, k1, yo, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, yo, k1, k2tog]
marker in place, pick-up and knit one stitch for each repeat to m, sm, ssk, k1, yo, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, yo, k9, yo,
garter ridge on right-hand side, plus knit the stitch from k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, yo, k1, k2tog, [ssk, k1, yo, k2, yo, k1, yo,
the safety pin. [292sts total] k2, yo, k1, k2tog] repeat to end.
Row 1: Purl to 1 stitch before marker, m1, p1, sm, purl Row 27: [p2tog, p9, p2togtbl] repeat to m, sm, p2tog,
to end. p27, p2togtbl, sm, [p2tog, p9, ptogtbl] repeat to end.
Row 2, 4, 6, 8: Knit to 1 stitch before marker, kfb, sm, Row 28: [ssk, k2, yo, k3, yo, k2, k2tog] repeat to m, sm,
kfb, knit to end. ssk, k2, [yo, k3] twice, yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, [yo, k3] twice, yo,
Row 3, 5, 7: Purl k2, k2tog, sm, [ssk, k2, yo, k3, yo, k2, k2tog] repeat to end.
Row 9: Knit. Row 29: Purl
Break yarn [301sts]. Change to CC. Row 30: [ssk, (k1, yo, k2, yo) twice, k1, k2tog] repeat to
Row 10, 12, 14: [k2tog, yo] repeat to m, sm, k1, [yo, m, sm, ssk [k1, yo, k2, yo] twice, k4, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog,
k2tog] repeat to end. yo, k4, [yo, k2, yo, k1] twice, k2tog, sm, [ssk, (k1, yo, k2,
Row 11, 13: Purl yo) twice, k1, k2tog] repeat to end.
Y31 Shawl pg40.indd 42 7/11/2013 9:46:26 PM

Shawl Motif
Row 31: [p2tog, p9, p2togtbl] repeat to m, sm, p2tog,
p33, p2togtbl, sm, [p2tog, p9, p2togtbl] repeat to end.
ssk, k2, yo, k3, yo, k2, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog,
yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, k2, yo, k3, yo, k2, k2tog, sm, [ssk, k2,
yo, k3, yo, k2, k2tog] repeat to end.
Row 33: Purl
ssk, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, sssk, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1, k2tog,
psso, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3tog, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, k2tog, sm,
[ssk, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, k2tog] repeat to end.
Row 35: Purl to m, sm, p10, p2togtbl, p7, p2tog, p10,
sm, purl to end.
Row 36: Knit to m, sm, k11, yo, sssk, yo, k1, yo, k3tog,
yo, k11, sm, knit to end.
Cast off purlwise.
Finishing
Sew in ends. At top of motif use ends to pull pattern
together, block, pinning out points on bottom edging.
Edging Chart A
Edging Chart B
Y31 Shawl pg40.indd 43 7/11/2013 9:46:54 PM

Knitting Your Own Design for a Perfect Fit emphasises
that slipping stitches is always done purlwise. She
points out that a woven look is achieved when the
strands are slipped on the right side.
When working with slip-stitch it is good to

remember that the technique will tighten the fabric,
Slip-Stitch and although the knitted fabric is not as dense as a fabric

knitted with stranded knitting using two or more
yarns in a single row.
Mosaic Knitting The use of the term Mosiac Knitting for Slip-Stitch
By Jude Skeers motifs can be attributed to Barbara Walker, first used
in her Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns published
Slip-Stitch knitting is usually grouped with stranded in 1970. Most authors, although not all, have credited
knitting, Fair Isle, Intarsia and other techniques the title to her. In her book, Treasury of Knitting
of colour stitch manipulation. While coloured Patterns (1986), Walker had a stack of single and
Slip-Stitch designs have a similar appearance to multiple colour Slip-Stitch patterns with no particular
stranded knitting (which uses two or more yarns name. In her Second Treasury, she calls “sophisticated
in each row), Slip-Stitch has only one yarn in each designs in slip-stitch color knitting” Mosaic Knitting.
row and could be seen as the lazy knitters approach In the introduction to the chapter, Mosaic Patterns,
to coloured knitting. which included over forty patterns, she points out that
once the slip-stitch technique has been mastered any
Along with ribs and moss stitch, Slip-Stitch is one number of patterns can be created. “Mosaic knitting
of the basic knitting patterns. The technique requires features a technique of the utmost simplicity and an
slipping one or more stitches between knit and purl application as broad as human ingenuity itself.”
stitches. Slip-Stitch motifs are not attributed to any
particular knitting tradition. Writing in her 1943 Barbara Walker’s 1972 Charted Knitting Designs
book of knitting patterns, Mary Thomas describes also has a chapter titled Mosaic Patterns consisting
the technique, “Slip-Stitch Motifs are very simple, but of over fifty multiple two coloured slip-stitch designs,
they make the most effective patterns, and permit of a predominately geometric. In each of her books Walker
pretty ply in yarn movements. The method consists of increased the number and variety of her Slip-Stitch
slipping a stitch from the left to right needle without patterns leading to the publishing in 1986 of her
knitting it, while carrying the yarn either behind or definitive book Mosaic Knitting. In the introduction
before the stitch so slipped.” to Mosaic Knitting Walker writes “Mosaic knitting is
a new term in the knitting vocabulary. It describes a
Mary Thomas uses the term Slip-Stitch Motif when novel development in color-knitting techniques and
the stitch is slipped to the back of the fabric creating a whole new class of patterns, each different from
a vertical pattern; when the stitch is slipped to the any pattern that has ever been used before. The term
front of the fabric a horizontal pattern is generated was coined, and the patterns of this class have been
which she calls Stranded-Slip Motifs. invented by the author of this book.”
The simple technique of slipping stitches opens Most wide-ranging books on knitting, whether
the way for a multitude of possible variations and they be encyclopaedias, treasuries, essential guides
permutations. Many patterns have been published or handbooks, include a section on slip-stitch and
with this uncomplicated concept. Stitches can be mosaic knitting. There are many excellent recent
slipped to the back or front of the work. The number publications with coloured slip-stitch motifs,
of stitches to be slipped can vary as can the number including Colorwork for the Adventurous Knitter
of rows that a stitch is slipped over. (2012), by Lori Ihnen, which is excellent for the
knitters wanting to start experimenting with this
Single coloured Slip-Stitch motifs are used where technique. For the more experienced knitter, Pop
the design is about texture, for example to create a Knitting (2012) by Britt-Marie Christoffersson is
ladder or herringbone effect; using more than one recommended. The Essential Guide to Color Knitting
coloured yarn puts the emphasis on the variations in Techniques (2008) by Margaret Radcliffe has an
colour. Montse Stanley in her 1982 book Creating & extensive range of slip-stitch patterns.
Y31 Tech Talk pg44.indd 44 7/11/2013 9:47:51 PM

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May 2 – 4, 2014
NatioNal CoNveNtioN CeNtre
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SEE artists push their creative boundaries through displays of

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BE INSPIRED by unique creations from textile artists

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EXPLORE the latest methods and techniques

CREATE in hands-on make and take classes, extended
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Admission charges apply
organised by #creativetextile
www.artwearpublications.com.au +61 2 9452 7575 Issue No 31 YARN 45
Y31 Tech Talk pg44.indd 45 7/12/2013 4:13:45 PM

Tunisian Tunisian Cluster Stitch
This is Classic Tunisian stitch with a simple addition of
five chain at chosen intervals that form little clusters at
Crochet: Part 3 the front of your work. Distribute the clusters evenly on
the fabric background of Classic Tunisian as an all-over
pattern, or group them together in geometric patterns.
By Robynn-El Ross
I have demonstrated both methods in my sample. The
Building a collection of Tunisian samples and placing return pass for every row is Classic Tunisian stitch.
them in a V.A.D. (Visual Arts Diary) with notes, will Foundation row: Work 20 chain.
enable you to create your own special articles with Row 1: Classic Tunisian stitch.
different stitches at a later date. I prefer to use an A5 Row 2: I made 5 chain after the 5th, 10th and 15th stitch.
V.A.D., or “Ideas Book” with acid free paper as it is Row 3: I made 5 chain after the 4th, 6th, 9th, 11th, 14th and
portable and the samples can be paper clipped in, 16th stitch.
or stapled at the top. That way, you can still turn to Row 4: Repeat Row 2.
the wrong side of the sample to check your present Rows 5, 6, 8 and 10: Classic Tunisian stitch without
technique is the same as the original and that the stitch clusters.
formation is correct. The paper allows you to label in Row 7: I made 5 chain after every 2nd stitch across the
any medium you like and it is ideal for jotting down row, making 9 clusters.
ideas and making thumbnail sketches in any colours, Row 9: I made 5 chain clusters in the alternate gaps
shapes, patterns and techniques you want to remember. from Row 7.
When 10 rows have been completed, cast off as shown
In this article, I have written the instructions for five in Yarn issue 30, Tunisian Crochet, Part 2.
different stitches: Tunisian Cluster, Stocking, Treble,
Eyelet and Crossed stitch. Some of these have different
names in other countries, so I have deferred to the more
popular or Australian term.
If you wish to compare size, stretch, strength or the 5 chain ready to hook
overall aesthetic appeal of a pattern, ensure you use in the vertical bar to
the same ply yarn with the appropriate hook size complete a cluster.
throughout your samples. (Refer to the table later in
this article.) Label each one and document your version
of the instructions in a way that make sense to you in
your V.A.D. I often write notes in “Robynn-speak” as it is
easier for me to remember the rhythm of the technique
Cluster stitch sample.
this way.
For each sample I have used 8 ply pure wool, a 4mm

Tunisian hook, 20 stitches for the width and 10 rows
before casting off. As a comparison, I have included a
sample of the Classic Tunisian stitch.
Tunisian Stocking Stitch (also known as

Tunisian Knit Stitch)
This stitch gobbles up the wool and curls upon itself,
as the back is heavily ridged. I would therefore avoid
it for edges or the beginning of an article. When you
execute the last stitch of the forward pass properly,
the pattern remains uniform and beautifully neat from
edge to edge. It looks similar to knitted stocking stitch.
Y31 Tunisian part 3 pg46.indd 46 7/11/2013 9:48:40 PM

The return pass for every row is Classic Tunisian stitch. row, yrh and draw through the bar, yrh and draw
Foundation row: Work 20 chain. through 2 loops, repeat from * to end.
Row 1: Classic Tunisian stitch. The Tunisian Treble stitch pattern has now been set.
Row 2: * Insert hook from right to left between the Repeat the forward and return pass of Row 2 until you
front and back of the next vertical bar, poke the hook have 10 rows for your sample. Cast off.
under the top edge so it sticks out the back, yrh and Treble stitch sample.
draw through, repeat from * to end.
The Tunisian Stocking stitch pattern has now been set.
Repeat the forward and return pass of Row 2 until you
have 10 rows for your sample. Cast off.
Hook insertion for Row 2

forward pass.
Stocking stitch sample.
Tunisian Eyelet Stitch

Foundation row: Work 22 chain for a sample width
of 20 chain. The return pass for every row is Classic
Tunisian stitch.
Row 1: Yrh twice, insert hook through 3rd chain from
hook, yrh and draw through 1 loop, yrh and draw
through 2 loops, *yrh twice, insert hook into next chain,
Tunisian Treble Stitch yrh and draw through 1 loop, yrh and draw through 2
(U.S. Tunisian Double Crochet) loops, repeat from * to end. For the Return Pass, note
Because treble stitch is an elevated stitch with height, that the 1st stitch is a double thread to take off. This
you must chain 22 for the foundation chain so you can now leaves 1 thread at both ends of the return pass. You
have a sample width of 20 stitches. The same height can see all the other stitches remaining on the hook are
is required on every row of Tunisian Treble, therefore double threads, so you put the hook under 3 threads to
chain twice before executing the forward pass. take 2 stitches off.
Refer to the table in Yarn issue 29, Tunisian Crochet, Row 2: Work 2 chain (for the height), *yrh twice, insert
Part 1 to revise row identification. For your sample hook between the 2 vertical bars of the next stitch from
to have a proper edge on the left to match the right right to left, yrh and draw through those 2 threads of
side, ensure you execute the final stitch of the forward the stitch, yrh and draw through 2 loops, repeat from
pass through the “v” edge, as shown in Yarn issue 30, * to end. (From the front, each stitch on the hook looks
Tunisian Crochet, Part 2, even on the cast off row. The like a double thread coming from the top right of the
return pass for every row is Classic Tunisian stitch. new stitch. At the back it looks like the double threads
Foundation row: Work 22 chain. have been split – the last thread comes from the new
Row 1: Yrh, insert hook through 3rd chain from hook, stitch below it and the other part of the double thread
yrh, draw through that chain, yrh, draw through 2 seems to be a part of the previous stitch.)
loops, *yrh, insert hook in next chain, yrh, draw through The Eyelet Tunisian stitch pattern has now been set.
2 loops, repeat from * to end. Repeat the forward and return pass of Row 2 until you
Row 2: Work 2 chain (for the height), *yrh and insert have 10 rows for your sample. Cast off, hooking the
hook from right to left into front vertical bar of previous double thread of the vertical bar each time.

Return pass of Eyelet stitch row. Tunisian Crossed Stitch
Foundation row: Work 20 chain. The return pass for
every row is Classic Tunisian stitch.
Row 1: Classic Tunisian stitch.
Rows 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10: Make 1 chain, *insert hook into
3rd vertical bar from the right, yrh and draw through 1
loop, insert hook into 2nd vertical bar (the one you just
overlooked) and draw through one loop, repeat from * to
end, working into 5th then 4th, 7th then 6th, 9th then 8th etc.
Rows 3, 5, 7 and 9: Classic Tunisian stitch.
Cast off when the 10 rows have been completed.
Eyelet stitch sample. Note the double threads Crossed stitch sample.
horizontally and vertically.
The following table of the six different stitches

illustrates the differences in width and height of each
sample, using the same wool and hook throughout.
These speci�ic measurements helped me decide on the
stitches for my V.A.D. project.
Sample Sample Sample

Results
stitch width height
9.5cm / 5.5cm / small, tightly

Classic
3.75in 2.25in packed weave
9.5cm / 6.5cm / freedom of

Cluster
3.75in 2.5in placement
10cm / 4.5cm / strict, tight,
Stocking
4in 1.75in neat weave
9.5cm / 11cm / tiny holes; flat
Treble
3.75in 4.4in weave
windows for
11.5cm / 12cm /
Eyelet threading; high
4.5in 4.75in
textural finish
9cm / 5.5cm / subtle pattern;

Crossed
3.5in 2.25in tight weave
In Yarn issue 32, Tunisian Crochet Part 4, we will

deal with shaping and accessorising your Tunisian
articles. Now that you have a working knowledge of
various stitch types, you can compare the size, stretch
and strength of each sample, opening up a world of
Close-up of Eyelet stitch. creative possibilities. Your original ideas can now take
form. Enjoy this simple project, or use the idea as a
springboard and change the pattern to suit your needs.

The comple
ted cover.
closer together. That is the reason I Row 32: Repeat Row 11.
chose this stitch for the �lap, as this Rows 34 and 35: Treble stitch.
made a tighter �it at both ends for a Rows 36, 38, 40 and 42: Classic
professional �inish to my diary cover. stitch.
Row 1: Base row of Classic stitch. Row 37: Repeat Row 11.
Rows 2, 4 and 6: Crossed stitch. Row 39: Repeat Row 13.
Rows 3, 5 and 7: Classic stitch. Row 41: Repeat Row 11.
7. These seven rows complete the �lap Rows 43 and 44: Treble stitch.
that folds to the inside and is sewn This is the fold line for the other
Visual Arts
to the body of the cover when you �lap to be sewn to the body when
have completed Row 26. you are �inished.
Rows 8 and 9: Treble stitch. Rows 45, 47 and 49: Classic stitch.
Diary Cover Rows 10, 12, 14 and 16: Classic

stitch.
Rows 46, 48 and 50: Crossed stitch.
Row 51: Classic stitch with a slip
By Robynn-El Ross Row 11: Cluster stitch. Chain 5 sts stitch cast off row. (Refer to Part 2
on the 5th, 9th, 13th, 17th, 21st, 25th, for any clari�ication.)
For this Tunisian project, I chose 29th and 33rd stitch. (8 clusters) Now you have a smart way to
Mollydale Vibrant Yarns multi Row 13: Cluster stitch. Chain 5 sts document your Tunisian journey. I
pastel 8 ply 100g pure wool from on the 2nd, 6th, 10th, 14th, 18th, 22nd, attach swing tags to the bottom left
The Uralla Wool Room, as it is a 26th and 30th stitch. (8 clusters) corner of each sample as it tells me the
strong �ibre perfect for a diary cover Row 15: Repeat Row 11. start of the base row. For example, on
that is constantly handled. Rows 17 and 18: Treble stitch. the front of one of the sample tags for
Purchase your diary �irst, so you Rows 19, 21, 23 and 25: Classic the above samples, I wrote: Tunisian
can measure your work accurately. stitch. Eyelet Stitch. On the back of the tag
My A5 diary measures 16cm Row 20: Repeat Row 11. I wrote: 8 ply; 4mm. 20 sts; 10 rows.
(6.25in) in width including spiral, Row 22: Repeat Row 13. This ensures I look professional when
21cm (8.25in) in height and 1.25cm Row 24: Repeat Row 11. I am teaching others a new technique.
(0.5in) in depth of pages. With a Row 26: Treble stitch. Sew the �lap To inspire you to make your own
5.5mm (US 9 or I) Tunisian hook, I (�irst 7 rows) to the main body of unique �itted articles, Part 4 will
chained 34 stitches, as that covered the cover neatly. Fit your work over explain how to shape your Tunisian
the height needed. Remember that the diary to check accuracy. This work and add embellishments.
each row of the pattern means treble row should �it snugly over It would be lovely to see posts of
both the forward and return pass. the centre of the spiral binding, as your Tunisian work on the Artwear
Review my directions in Part 1 for a the cover is half completed. Facebook page or with the Ravelry
full explanation. Rows 27, 29, 31 and 33: Classic Yarn group. Please feel welcome to
As you can see in my sample stitch. write me a paragraph and/or send
dimensions in the table, Tunisian Row 28: Repeat Row 11. an image via email to thegirls@
Crossed stitch brings the stitches Row 30: Repeat Row 13. artwearpublications.com.au
1. 3. 5. 6.
1.) Measuring the work to check fit. 4.

6.) Inside the front cover where I
added chain lengths, hooking them
2.
into the edge of the cover and
finishing the ends upon themselves.
A. 7.) The completed cover.
8.
2.) Ready to do 5 chain to make

the next cluster. 3.) You can see here that the position of each pair of vertical bars has been
swapped to make the cross. 4.) Skipping the vertical bar for a crossed stitch.
5.) Going back to do the skipped vertical bar for the crossed stitch.
8.) Close-up of the Tunisian cover.

yarn related yumminess . . .
2 Denim is such a wonderful
yum
wardrobe staple that it
makes sense to create a
1 yarn from recycled jeans.

Riveting is a sensible
5ply (Sport weight)
yarn, perfect for Spring,
Summer or Autumn.
The colour pictured is
Cloud Denim 7906 and is
available from Melissa at Stranded in Oz via www.strandedinoz.com
yum 3 Ask Christine at Yarn

About Yarn for shawl
pins and she will show
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pictured are Nickel Plated, but
These beautiful lace weight yarns are plant she also has Shawl Pins that
dyed with love by Andie at Renaissance are hand crafted from recycled
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out www.renaissancedyeing.com for pins. Have a look yourself at
more information. www.yarnaboutyarn.com.au
yarn related
yumminess . . . 4
yum
Beautiful blended Corriedale tops are available at Tasmanian
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Contact Sue for these or for needled batts, made right on the
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5 yum Need some more knit lit? Starting

6 yum
Looking to add some handmade
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Now by Debbie Macomber is
want to learn how to spin? How
new out from Bantam Australia,
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Y31 Yarn Review pg50.indd 50 7/11/2013 9:52:52 PM

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Y31 yarn MARKET pg51.indd 51 7/11/2013 9:54:05 PM

stitch guide
1 2 3 4
Knit stitches abbreviations
*, ** repeat directions following * or ** as many
times as indicated
alt alternate
CC contrast colour
cm centimetre(s)
dec(s) decrease(s)/decreasing Working through the back of a loop (tbl) (1) k tbl: Put the needle through the back
dpn(s) double-pointed needle(s) loop of the st as shown. (2) p tbl: put the needle through the back of the stitch from left
foll following to right. (3) k2togtbl Knit two stitches together by putting the right needle through the
inc(s) increase(s)/increasing back loops of two stitches at once. (4) p2togtbl Purl 2 sts together by putting the right
g st garter stitch: k all rows (back and forth); in
needle through the back loops of the two sts at the same time from left to right.
rounds, work 1 round knit, next round purl
K, k knit
k2tog knit 2 sts together (decs 1 st; a right-leaning dec) Three-needle join/cast off Bring together two pieces of knitting on separate
kfb knit into the front and back of the same st needles, right sides facing. The near needle is the ‘front’ needle, and the other the
(incs 1 st) ‘back’ needle. Insert tip of a third needle knitwise through both the first st on front
m metre(s) needle and the first st on the back needle. Knit the two together onto the third needle.
m1 make 1 (raised increase) Repeat the same manoeuvre on the next st on the front and back needles, giving you
m1L make 1 leaning left
m1R make 1 leaning right two sts on the right needle. To work as a cast off, simply lift the first stitch on
MC main colour the right needle and drop it over the second in the usual manner. Continue this way,
mm millimetre(s) knitting two together off the paired needles and casting sts off right needle, until only
P, p purl one st remains on right needle. Break thread and draw the last loop closed.
PM, pm place marker
psso pass slipped stitch over
p2tog purl two sts together. M1 Insert the left needle from the front to back of the horizontal loop between the
RS right side two stitches. Knit the stitch through the back loop as shown.
skp slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over This sort of increase will make a left-leaning increase (M1L). To make a right leaning
Sl, sl, s slip increase (M1R), insert the left needle from the front to the back of the horizontal loop
Sm, sm slip marker
between the two stitches. Knit the stitch through the front of the loop.
ssk slip, slip, knit the 2sts tog (left leaning dec)
st(s) stitch(es)
st st stocking stitch: k one row, p one row (flat); k
all rows (circular knitting)
tbl work st(s) through back of loop(s)
tog together
WS wrong side
yb yarn back
yf yarn forward. Makes a st on a K row by moving
yarn to front of work under right hand needle.
yo yarn over. See also ‘yrn’ Wrap and turn (short-row wraps) On a knit row: yf, sl 1, yb, return sl st to left-
yrn yarn round needle. Before a purl st must go hand needle, turn and work back across without working wrapped st. On a purl row,
fully around the needle. yb, sl 1, yf, return sl st to left-hand needle, turn work and work back across without
working wrapped st.
1 2 Working wrap with st When working a knit row, insert needle from below into
the wrap and k wrap together with the st as directed.
I-cord Cast on the required number of sts onto a

dpn. Knit each stitch. Slide the sts to the other end of
the dpn and do not turn. (1) Bring the working yarn 1 2 3
behind the work and (2) knit the sts again. Continue
until cord is required length.
Slip, slip, knit (ssk) (left-leaning decrease) Slip

two sts knitwise, one at a time, from the left needle to the
right needle. Slide the tip of left needle through the front 4 5 6
of the two sts and knit them together. Decreases 1 st. Grafting (Kitchener stitch) Leave a tail about 3 times the width of the knitting to
be grafted. Thread yarn onto a blunt needle. Holding needles parallel with WS of work
together, work two set-up stitches: (1) put the sewing needle in the first stitch of the
French Knot front knitting needle purlwise and pull yarn all the way through, keeping the stitch on
the knitting needle. Next put the sewing needle knitwise into the first stitch of the back
knitting needle and pull all the way through. Keep the stitch on the needle. (2) Put sewing
needle knitwise into first stitch of the front knitting needle and pull the yarn all the way
through. Drop the stitch off the knitting needle. (3) Put sewing needle purlwise into the
next stitch on the front knitting needle and pull through, keeping the stitch on the knitting
Bullion needle. (4) Put sewing needle purlwise into first stitch on back knitting needle and pull
yarn through. Drop the stitch off the knitting needle. (5) Put sewing needle knitwise into
the next stitch on the back knitting needle and pull through. Do not drop the stitch off
the knitting needle. (6) Repeat Steps 2–5 until all sts have been worked.
Y31 stitch guide pg52.indd 52 7/12/2013 6:33:05 PM

stitch guide
Ultimate Yarn Conversion Guide
* The 1 & 2 ply yarns are normally used for open worked, lace patterns so the stitch
count and needle size can vary tremendously depending on the project.
** Steel crochet hook sizes may differ from regular hooks.
This table complied by Michelle Moriarty, referencing various Encyclopedias, USA
CYCA Standards, Knitpicks, Nancy’s Knit Knacks, Ravelry and in consultation with
Amelia Garripoli. © This table is copyright to Yarn Magazine.
To make a dtr (double-treble) you need a turning chain of

four stitches. Wrap yarn around hook twice. (1) Insert hook
1 into the stitch you’re crocheting into, swirl hook and (2) pull
yarn through stitch (4 loops on hook). Swirl hook and pull yarn
through two loops (3 loops on hook). Swirl hook and pull yarn
through two loops (2 loops on hook). Swirl hook and pull yarn
through remaining two loops.
2
To start a sl st (slip stitch) or
dc (double crochet): (1) insert
the hook into the next stitch, pick To make a ttr (triple-treble, or treble-treble crochet) you
up the yarn with the hook and pull need a turning chain of five stitches. Wrap yarn around hook three
it through the st to the front. To times. (1) Insert your hook into the stitch you’re crocheting into
complete a sl st pull the loop all swirl hook and (2) pull yarn through stitch (5 loops on hook). Swirl
the way through the second loop. hook and pull yarn through two loops (4 loops on hook). Swirl
To complete a dc (2) pick up the hook and pull yarn through two loops (3 loops on hook). Swirl
yarn with the hook again and pull it hook and pull yarn through two loops (2 loops left on hook). Swirl
through the two loops. hook and pull yarn through remaining two loops.
To make a htr
(half-treble
crochet) or a tr
Crochet stitches - We say torch, you say flashlight.
(treble crochet) Australian/UK North American
(1) pick up the yarn chain (ch) chain (ch)
with the hook. (2) double crochet (dc) single crochet (sc)
1 2 Insert the hook into treble crochet (tr) double crochet (dc)
the next st, catch half treble crochet (htr) half double crochet (hdc)
the yarn with the hook and pull it through to the front (3 loops on hook). To complete a htr, catch the yarn
double treble (dtr) treble crochet (tr)
again and pull it through all 3 loops. To complete a tr, catch the yarn again and pull it through the first 2 loops
slip stitch (sl st) slip stitch (ss)
on the hook; pick up the yarn with the hook again and pull it through the rem 2 loops on the hook. In (2) you
can also see the effect of working sl sts across a row to decrease. Here, 4 sts have been decreased. triple treble (ttr) double treble (dtr)
miss skip (sk)
Y31 stitch guide pg52.indd 53 7/11/2013 9:55:16 PM

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The 2014 CONTEXTART - FORUM takes place from 12th - 16th April in the
to 10. The program is both a real-life fashion design
CREATIVE STATEMENT – PRINCESS BEATRICE of YORK Blue Mountains using KOROWAL SCHOOL, Hazelbrook NSW.
CREATIVE STATEMENT - PRINCESS BEATRICE of YORK
Excellent 2-day and 3-day workshop options - www.tafta.org.au
experience and a chance to learn about the natural
properties of Australian wool as a fibre and a fabric.
Design and Technology teacher from Ruyton
Girls’ School in Melbourne, Jo Roszkowski said
she had enjoyed being part of Wool4Skool. “My
students were thrilled to be a part of a real life
fashion design scenario - to design for a Royal
family member. The resources supplied were
really useful and appropriate to the curriculum.
The students were amazed by the huge variety of
woollen fabrics and their versatility.”
Alexandria Brooks is one of Ms Roszkowski’s
year 9 students. Her entry (image shown) involved
an outfit for the Duchess of Cambridge to wear
to the races. “The wool I used in my garment is
circular knit interlock. I thought it is appropriate
for the garment as it is light weight and figure
hugging. Wool is great to use as it is breathable,
natural, anti-wrinkle and machine washable”.
At the time of going to press the 2013 winner had
not yet been announced, but the winning design will
be made into reality by leading Australian designer
Jonathan Ward. Wool4skool involves over $10,000 in
prizes for both teachers and students across years 7
to 10.
For more information contact Marius via marius.
[email protected] or (03) 5572 5881.
Y31 wool4skool pg56.indd 56 7/12/2013 7:24:23 PM

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combined subs IBC
What’s INSIDE!
and
more . . .
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The Australian magazine for knitting and more Volume 13

Traveling stitches • Hoodie • Tunisian crochet

Ashford looms include: 7.5 dpi reed, clamps, threading hook

Fold and go with

Yarn31 IFC.indd 1 7/11/2013 9:14:15 PM

YARN Issue 31/September 2013

Australian distribution by IPS YARN Market . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51

UK distribution by Manor House

Please address comments, letters, and inquiries to

YARN ® is a registered trademark of Yarn www.artwearpublications.com.au Issue No 31 YARN 1

Y31 contents pg 1.indd 1 7/12/2013 4:11:39 PM

Yarn Issue 31 Advertisers Index

Fibre Scour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Shiloh Wool . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Woolybutt Knitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54

Fibreworks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Spacefrog . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Yarn about Yarn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54

2 YARN Issue No 31 www.artwearpublications.com.au

Y31 editors & letters pg 2n3.indd 2 7/11/2013 9:16:16 PM

Do Trees Feel the Cold? From an Email Conversation

Sharing the Love PUBLICATIONS

www.artwearpublications.com.au Issue No 31 YARN 3

Y31 editors & letters pg 2n3.indd 3 7/11/2013 9:17:36 PM

T here are two main parts

Y ou may remember Vicky

4 YARN Issue No 31 www.artwearpublications.com.au

Y31 book reviews pg 4n5.indd 4 7/12/2013 7:35:31 PM

around the foot and have a guess, but there’s nothing

Y ummy! This book is good

www.artwearpublications.com.au Issue No 31 YARN 5

Y31 book reviews pg 4n5.indd 5 7/12/2013 7:35:52 PM

Traveling Stitches stitches to jazz up ordinary k2 p2 rib, or consult a stitch

6 YARN Issue No 31 www.artwearpublications.com.au

Y31 Traveling stitches pg6.indd 6 7/11/2013 9:18:31 PM

Traveling stitches can create subtle or chunky all-

Even though the background of this lattice pattern is

www.artwearpublications.com.au Issue No 31 YARN 7

Y31 Traveling stitches pg6.indd 7 7/11/2013 9:18:56 PM

Another all-over pattern on a stocking stitch background,

Be sure to positively slip both stitches off the needle at

Variations: You can work a right slanting twist in two

So what’s a good way to remember all this? How about

If you have to work a traveling stitch on a wrong side

What if you want to have a knit stitch traveling over

8 YARN Issue No 31 www.artwearpublications.com.au

Y31 Traveling stitches pg6.indd 8 7/11/2013 9:20:30 PM

For a right slanting twist, take the yarn

Another method: the slipped stitch method:

www.artwearpublications.com.au Issue No 31 YARN 9

Y31 Traveling stitches pg6.indd 9 7/11/2013 9:21:00 PM

10 YARN Issue No 31 www.artwearpublications.com.au

Y31 Crow Nest Mitts pg10.indd 10 7/11/2013 9:22:04 PM

www.artwearpublications.com.au Issue No 31 YARN 11

Y31 Crow Nest Mitts pg10.indd 11 7/11/2013 9:22:40 PM

12 YARN Issue No 31 www.artwearpublications.com.au

Y31 Crow Nest Mitts pg10.indd 12 7/11/2013 9:23:06 PM

www.artwearpublications.com.au Issue No 31 YARN 13

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14 YARN Issue No 31 www.artwearpublications.com.au

Y31 Crow Nest Mitts pg10.indd 14 7/11/2013 9:24:17 PM

www.artwearpublications.com.au Issue No 31 YARN 15

Y31 Crow Nest Mitts pg10.indd 15 7/11/2013 9:24:37 PM

I made the Penguin Parade with my little Grandson Fin in mind. He is a

Diamond Panels (17sts), rep 4 times from to * (five