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International Conference on Technology and Vocational Teachers (ICTVT) 2020 IOP Publishing
Journal of Physics: Conference Series 1833 (2021) 012060 doi:10.1088/1742-6596/1833/1/012060

Formulation of pomade with atisiri oil pandan wangi leaves

(pandanus amaryllifolius roxb.)

I P Siregar1, N Marliati1

1
Cosmetology Study Program, Faculty of Engineering, Universitas Negeri Yogyakarta,
Indonesia

E-mail: [email protected]

Abstract. This research aims to: 1) know the formulation of pomade making from aromatic
pandan wangi leaf essential oil, 2) know the characteristics of pomade from the essential oil of
pandan wangi leaves, and 3) know the quality of pomade from the essential oil of fragrant
pandan leaves, and 4) the anti-fungal activity of pomade from the essential oil of pandan wangi
leaves. Research methods used by research and development (R&d) models. Formulation of
pomade manufacture of pandan wangi leaf essential oil is carried out based on the results of
research that produces a stable formula that is pomade with the appropriate quality SNI with
the base of pomade type oil based and not petrol based with a concentration of 34% of the total
weight of pomade. Pomade formula is added to the essential oil of pandan wangi leaves with
different concentrations of 2.5% (formula 1), 5% (formula 2) and 7.5% (formula 3). The
characteristics and quality of pomade are known from organoleptic and hedonic tests that 47%
of respondents strongly agree with pomade has the aroma of essential oil of pandan wangi
leaves, 52% of respondents strongly agree with the color of pomade in dark green, 45% of
respondents strongly agree with the texture of pomade very smooth without any granules, the
respondent's response after pomade is on a smooth impression as much as 90.56% and the
impression is moist as much as 90.00%. Formula 1 to formula 3 provide homogeneous results.
Formulas 1 through 3 have a pH balance with pH range of hair and oil on the scalp which is 5.5
between pH 4.5 -5.5. The largest antifungal activity is in formula 3 (essential oil content 7.5%)
with an inhibithor zone diameter of 37 mm. This indicates that the greater the concentration of
pandan wangi leaf essential oil, the stronger the antifungal activity against niger's Aspergillus.

1. Introduction

The phenomenon of beauty trends that emerged in people's social life in the era of digitization makes
people need cosmetics not only to look after/care for beauty but to want to look beautiful, stylish, and
show their existence. This is in similar to Ibrahim's statement in Ardi Dadang Kusniadi, that in
Indonesian society now the affairs of styles are starting to become a very serious concern for almost
everyone [1]. At this time not only women are required to maintain their appearance but men also feel
the need to appear ala dandy society.
With the rapid beauty trend in the era of digitization, some aesthetic industries, especially the
cosmetics industry, are rapidly growing rapidly and rapidly. This is in accordance with the data of the
Ministry of Industry of the Republic of Indonesia which explains that the national cosmetics industry
is experiencing a 20% growth or four times the growth of the national economy every year. Thus, the

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International Conference on Technology and Vocational Teachers (ICTVT) 2020 IOP Publishing
Journal of Physics: Conference Series 1833 (2021) 012060 doi:10.1088/1742-6596/1833/1/012060

Ministry of Energy and Human Services placed the cosmetics industry as the mainstay sector as stated
in the National Industrial Development Master Plan (RIPIN) in 2015-2035.
One of the cosmetic products that many men see is pomade. This is because of the large number of
foreign-style barbershops that are mushrooming in Indonesia. The trend of pomade cosmetics usage
reached its peak in 2010 and until now still received a positive response especially by young people /
millennials.
Data on the sales report of hair styling (pomade) owned by one of the giant cosmetic companies in
Indonesia states that sales of hair styling products occupy the highest position compared to other
categories of cosmetic products and in addition sales of hair styling cosmetics have increased
significantly from year to year can be seen in the following table [2].
Table 1. Sales Data Per Product Category (Rupiah)
Product 2014 2015 2016
Category Billion % Billion % Billion %
Hair Styling 845.718 36,6 898.431 38,8 1.053.480 41,7
Skin Care 794.479 34,4 811.214 35,0 811.194 32,1
Perfume 627.514 27,2 564.333 24,4 633.261 25,1
Etc 40.492 1,8 40.912 1,8 28.841 1,1

The phenomenon of the increasing pomade usage trend causes many cosmetic industries both large
and small industries such as SMEs to compete to create superior and quality pomade cosmetic
innovation products. Products with new variants that are superior are expected to provide more effects
/ properties than just the use of pomade before that is only aimed as cosmetic hair styling only and
does not pay attention in terms of health or scalp care and hair itself.
The phenomenon of pomade trend is supported by promotional media and online sales methods
where people /consumers can easily access and obtain pomade.
Looking at the phenomenon of pomade trend is remarkable then the younger generation, especially
milineal children also participate as pomade producers. The younger generation who also like the
trend and they are also experts in technology then the production of pomade is a great potential for the
younger generation to do entrepreneurship.
Efforts to create pomade products with new variants that are more innovative to meet the
considerable market demands can be seen from the research results that there are manufacturers who
create organic pomade that does not contain a petrol base called pomade non-petrol based [3].
Organic pomade is pomade made not using petrolium gel base but replaced with beewax wax and
added essential oil as a substitute for fragrance oil/ fragrance.
The presence of organic pomade received a positive reception from the community. In general
pomade on the market are non organic pomade with petrolium gelly base and fragrance oil/ perfume.
Pomade found that many complaints from the public such as riris endah respati research that there
were 29.5% of respondents said it was difficult to rinse pomade by using pomade petrol based and as
many as 26.4% of respondents experienced acne after using gas station based. The use of petroleum-
containing pomade can cause pomade acne or pomade acne [4].
In addition to infections and acne caused by the use of petrol-based pomade, another problem that
has the potential to arise due to the growth of bacteria on the scalp is the onset of dandruff. The more
pomade volume used and the longer using pomade can trigger the onsure [5]. In addition, the use of
pomade that does not comply with the rules of use can also cause problems on the scalp of one of
them dandruff.
Many problems arise from pomade products and the incorrect use of pomade then at this time
many developed more innovative cosmetic products both in terms of quality and efficacy of the
product itself. One way of developing pomade products is by replacing the pomade base with non
petrol material and fragrance oil replaced with essential oil. The development of pomade products
with a non petrol base and the addition of essential oils is expected to address problems arising from
pomade usage.
One of the aromatic plants that also produces essential oils and is widely used is pandanus leaves
(Pandanus amaryllifolius Roxb.). Pandan wangi is a plant that often used its leaves as a food addition,

2
International Conference on Technology and Vocational Teachers (ICTVT) 2020 IOP Publishing
Journal of Physics: Conference Series 1833 (2021) 012060 doi:10.1088/1742-6596/1833/1/012060

generally as a green dye and aromatic ingredient. The distinctive aroma of pandanus is thought to be
due to the compound derivative of the amino acid phenyl alanine namely 2-acetyl-1-pyrroline [6].
Pandanus amaryllifolius Roxb.) has the content of terpene-type essential oils that are useful as
aroma ingredients, food coloring and cosmetics. The ingredients contained in pandan leaf essential oil
are obtained 11 types of components consisting of eucalyptol 61.26%, 3.7-dimethyl, 1,3,6-octatriene
25.01%, 3.7-dimethyl, 1,3,7-octatriene 3.84%, 1-methyl-2-(1-methylethyl)-benzene 3.49%, tridecane
1.23%, hexylene glycol 1.20%, beta-pinene 0.99%, dihydro-carveol 0.90%, gamma-terpinene 0.87%,
2-methyldecalin 0.62%, and ethenyloxy-isooctane 0.59% [7].

2. Method

Pomade cosmetic manufacturing research with the addition of pandan leaf essential oil is done with
Research and Development model. The technique of making pomade with the addition of pandan leaf
essential oil is carried out using a standard formula pomade that is added essential oil with a variation
in concentration and replicated as much as 3 times from each different formula so that it will be
produced a formula that is precisely in accordance with the desired pomade quality standards.
Table 2. Pomade Formula Modification Table with Various Comparisons of Pandan Leaf
Essential Oil Concentrations
Ingredients Formula 1 (gr) Formula 2 (gr) Formula 3 (gr)
Pandan leaf essential
2,5 5 7,5
oil
Bees wax 5 5 5
Vaselin album 25 25 25
BHT 0,02 0,02 0,02
Coconut oil ad 50 gr 50 gr 50 gr

Data analysis techniques conducted in this study aim to find out the exact formula of pomade
quality with pandan leaf essential oil including organoleptic test, favorite/hedonic test, evaluation of
the physical and chemical properties of pomade which refers to pomade quality requirements in SNI
06-3532-1994 which include homogeneity test, pH test, Freeze-Thaw test, and scatter power test. In
addition, a test of the ingredients of pandan leaf essential oil in pomade is a test of anti-fungal activity
with diffusion method in order to wells in niger aspergillus bacteria. Testing of antifungal activity is
carried out on pomade with the addition of pandan leaf essential oil with concentrations of 2.5%, 5%,
and 7.5%, and pomade without the addition of essential oil oil pandan leaves as negative control

3. Results and Discussion

The manufacture of pomade from red ginger essential oil is done by optimizing the pomade base to
get the right pomade base so that the resulting pomade products are stable, the base of pomade used is
a type of oil based and not petrol based with a concentration of 34% of the total weight of pomade.
After obtaining the right pomade base then continued with the formula test by adding aromaic pandan
leaf essential oil with different concentrations of 2.5%, 5%, and 7.5%.
The organoleptic test used in this study is measuring pomade characteristics that include aroma,
color, texture, impression at the time of use, and impression after use. Data retrieval using
questionnaires. Panelists/respondents taken as many as 20 men in the ptbb major. The average
assessment of characteristics and fondness for pomade aromas was that at most about 47% of
respondents rated the aroma of pomade with a distinctive pandan leaf fragrance. This indicates that
the majority of respondents (47%) respondents strongly agree with pomade has a distinctive aroma of
pandan leaves and only a little about 8% agree with pomade does not have a distinctive aroma of
pandan leaves fragrant. The aroma of pomade with aromatic oil of pandan leaves is caused by the
essential oil of pandan leaves, which has a chemical compound 2-acetyl-1-pyrroline (ACPY) which is
also found in jasmin/jasmine plants, only that the concentration of ACPY in pandan fragrance is
higher than jasmin.

3
International Conference on Technology and Vocational Teachers (ICTVT) 2020 IOP Publishing
Journal of Physics: Conference Series 1833 (2021) 012060 doi:10.1088/1742-6596/1833/1/012060

The average percentage of responses/ color charactertic scoring shows that the average percentage
of respondents' responses to the largest color is pomade with a dark green color of 52%. This indicates
that most respondents strongly agree with the color of pomade with the essential oil of dark green
pandan leaves. Furthermore, the second largest average is a bright green pomade color, quite affected
by the color of pandan leaves that is as much as 20%. This indicates that as many as 20% of
respondents who gave a highly agreeable assessment of the color of pomade are bright green.
As it is known that the chemical content of pandan leaves is alkaloids, saponins, flavonoids,
polyphenols, tannins, and color substances [8]. Thus pandan leaf essential oil also contains a color
substance that is green / chlorophyll color substance. The essential oil of pandan leaves produced
from pandan leaf ethanol extract produces a brownish green color while extracts from hexane and
ethyl acetate fractions produce a blackish green color. This green color appears because part of
chlorophyll is extracted, and during the evaporation process it is damaged.
The average percentage of responses/ charactertic assessments of textures showed that the average
percentage of respondents' responses to the largest textures was that 45% of respondents strongly
agreed with the pomade texture which was very soft and no granules, and there were 22% of
respondents strongly agreeing with the pomade texture to feel soft and there were few grains. The rest
are few (13%) respondents rated the pomade texture as not soft and lots of granules.
The average percentage of responses /impression assessments when using pomade shows that the
average percentage of responses of the largest respondents is on soft and moist impressions which as
much as 26% of respondents strongly agree with the soft and moist impression when using pomade.
Furthermore, the average percentage of responses of the second respondent was a slippery impression
of 25%. Furthermore, the average percentage of respondents' response to the impression of not being
hot is 23% respondents strongly agree with the impression of not being hot when using pomade. The
average result of the percentage of respondents' responses strongly agreed to the impression of soft,
moist, slippery, and not hot when the usage is high enough so it can be concluded that most
respondents can accept/like the impression when using pomade. Thus, the hope is that in addition to
the respondents / wider scale such as the public can accept / like the impression when using pomade
from the essential oil of pandan leaves fragrant
The average percentage of responses / impression assessments after pomade usage shows that on
average the percentage of responses of the largest respondents there are two that are on a subtle
impression of 90.56% and a moist impression that 90.00% of respondents strongly agree on the two
impressions after the completion of pomade usage. Furthermore, the second most percentage of
prescription responses is clean, fresh, not allergic, and not irritable. The average percentage of
respondents' responses to these four impressions was about the same as 86.25%, 87.50%, 87.78%, and
87.78% of respondents strongly agreed with the clean, fresh, non-allergic, and non-irritant impression
after the use of pomade essential oil of fragrant pandan leaves
Homogeneity test is carried out by means of pomade samples applied on a piece of glass or other
suitable transparent material, the preparation must show a homogeneous arrangement and no visible
rough granules
Pomade Homogeneity Test Table with Pandan Leaf Essential Oil.
Table 3. Homogenity Treatment Group
Treatment Group Homogenity
Formula 1 ( essential oil 2,5%) Homogen
Formula 1 ( essential oil 5%) Homogen
Formula 1 ( essential oil 7,5%) Homogen
Negative Control (without essential oil) Homogen

PH testing is performed using measurements performed using a universal pH indicator. The pH

measurements in this study are intended to determine the nature of the pomade's pre-existing whether
the balance with the pH of the scalp irritates the skin. Normal skin ranges from pH 4.5–6.5.
Meanwhile hair and oil on the human scalp (sebum) have a pH between 4.5 to 5.5.

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International Conference on Technology and Vocational Teachers (ICTVT) 2020 IOP Publishing
Journal of Physics: Conference Series 1833 (2021) 012060 doi:10.1088/1742-6596/1833/1/012060

Table 4. Pomade pH Rate Test Table with Pandan Leaf Essential Oil
Treatment Group Homogenity
Formula 1 ( essential oil 2,5%) Homogen
Formula 1 ( essential oil 5%) Homogen
Formula 1 ( essential oil 7,5%) Homogen
Negative Control (without essential oil) Homogen

Based on the results of the pH test shows that all pomade formulas (Formula 1 - Formula 3)
enter into the pH range of hair and oil on the scalp which is 5.5 between pH 4.5 -5.5. In addition, the
pH pomade of the three formulas also enters into the ideal pH range of Pomade's available between
4.5 – 6.5. Thus pomade with the addition of essential oil oil with concentrations of 2.5%, 5%, and
7.5% safe for use on hair

4. Conclusion

The manufacture of pomade from essential oil of pandan leaves is fragrant with the base of pomade
type oil based and not petrol based with a concentration of 34% of the total weight of pomade.
Furthermore, formulas with the right base are added aromas of pandan leaf essential oil with different
concentrations of 2.5%, 5%, and 7.5%. There are 47% of respondents strongly agree with pomade
having the aroma of aromatic oils of fragrant pandan leaves. There are 52% of respondents strongly
agree with the color of pomade with the essential oil of pandan leaves in dark green. There are 45% of
respondents strongly agree with the very smooth pomade texture without any granules. 26% of
respondents strongly agreed with the soft and moist impression of pomade use. Furthermore, the
average percentage of responses of the second respondent was a slippery impression of 25%.
Furthermore, the average percentage of respondents' response to the impression of not being hot is
23% respondents strongly agree with the impression of not being hot when using pomade. The
average percentage of responses / impression assessments after pomade usage shows that on average
the percentage of responses of the largest respondents there are two that are on a subtle impression of
90.56% and a moist impression that 90.00% of respondents strongly agree on the two impressions
after the completion of pomade usage. Furthermore, the second most percentage of prescription
responses is clean, fresh, not allergic, and not irritable. From the homogeneity test results can be seen
in formula 1, formula 2, and formula 3 giving homogeneous results when applied to a piece of glass.
Ph test results show that all pomade formulas (Formula 1 – Formula 3) enter the Ph range of hair and
oil on the scalp which is 5.5 between Ph 4.5 -5.5. Pomade Formula 3 is the larger spread of formulas 1
and 2. the diameter of the slave zone of each pomade essential oil of pandan leaves fragrant formula 1
by 27 mm, formula 2 by 33 mm, and formula 3 by 34 mm. Pomade slave zone without aromatic
pandan leaves essential oil (negative control) is 14 mm.

5. References

[1] Ardi Dadang Kurniadi. 2017. Jurnal Pendidikan Sosiologi UNY. Pomade sebagai Identitas
(Studi pada Komunitas Pomade Enthusiast Jogja). Tersedia dalam
http://library.fis.uny.ac.id/opac/index.php?p=show_detail&id=7403&keywords= [Diakses
tanggal 1 Februari 2020].
[2] Mandom. 2018. Laporan tahunan. Jakarta: PT Mandom Indonesia Tbk
[3] Riris Endah Respati. 2014. Prototipe web series “pomateur”. Skripsi Fakultas Ilmu Sosial dan
Politik UI. Jakarata: Tidak diterbitkan.
[4] Goodheart, Herbet P. (2006).Acne for Dummies. Indianapolis, Publishing Inc,.
[5] Aria Rizky Utami, Asep Sukohar, Gigih Setiawan, dan Chiciy Widya Morfi .2018. Jurnal
Majority Vol. 7. No.2. : Pengaruh ketombe pada remaja pria terhadap penggunaan pomade
terhadap kejadian

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International Conference on Technology and Vocational Teachers (ICTVT) 2020 IOP Publishing
Journal of Physics: Conference Series 1833 (2021) 012060 doi:10.1088/1742-6596/1833/1/012060

[6] Faras, A.F., Wadkar, S.S., and Ghosh, J.S., 2014, Effect of Leaf Extract of Pandanus
amaryllifolius Roxb on Growth of Escherichia coli and Micrococcus (Staphylococcus)
aureus, International Food Research Journal
[7] Miss Wan Azrin Chem. 2018. Jurnal elektronik theses and dissertation. Komponen Kimia
Minyak Atsiri Pandan Wangi (Pandanus amaryllifolius Roxb.) Hasil Destilasi Uap Secara
Kromatografi Gas-Spektrometri Massafakultas Matematika dan Ilmu Pengetahuan Alam
Universitas Syiah Kuala. Tersedia dalam
https://etd.unsyiah.ac.id/index.php?p=show_detail&id=49655. [Diakses tanggal 1 Februari
2020].
[8] Dalimartha, Setiawan. 2002. Obat Tradisional, Pandan wangi (Pandanus amaryllifolius Roxb.).
http://www.pdpersi.co.id. 13April 2007