Received: 2 December 2020 | Revised: 16 May 2021 | Accepted: 8 June 2021

DOI: 10.1111/jocd.14286

REVIEW ARTICLES

Potential use of essential oils in cosmetic and dermatological

hair products: A review

Ursulandréa Sanches Abelan MSc1 | Andressa Costa de Oliveira MSc2 |

Érica Savassa Pinto Cacoci RPh3 | Tércio Elyan Azevedo Martins PhD2,4 |
Virginia Mansanares Giacon PhD5 | Maria Valéria Robles Velasco PhD2 |
Cibele Rosana Ribeiro de Castro Lima PhD6

1
School of Pharmaceutical Sciences, São
Paulo State University, Araraquara, Brazil Abstract
Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Background: Essential oils have great interest among the increasing demand for herbal
2

University of São Paulo, São Paulo, Brazil

cosmetics in the market. They are natural sources of biologically active ingredients
3
Graduate Program in Materials Science
and Engineering, Federal University of due to the wide application of such compounds as well as their particular chemical
Amazonas, Manaus, Brazil composition. Several researches have evaluated the effectiveness of these bioactive
4
Aesthetics and Cosmetics Course,
ingredients for use in cosmeceuticals, mainly in both hair scalp and shaft hair damage
Paulista University, São Paulo, Brazil
5
Laboratory of Amazonian Materials repair. Thus, the amounts and their associations define the properties of these com-
and Composites, Federal University of positions with interest for hair cosmetic use, such as antioxidant, inflammatory, and
Amazonas, Manaus, Brazil
6 antimicrobial activities. Because they are complex compounds, their actions on the
Institute of Physics, University of São
Paulo, São Paulo, Brazil skin, hair scalp, and shaft are not yet fully understood.
Aims: The purpose of this review is to highlight the relevant researches and findings
Correspondence
Cibele Rosana Ribeiro de Castro Lima, on essential oils in hair care.
Institute of Physics, University of São
Methods: In order to achieve this objective, the present work comprises an updated
Paulo, USP-SP, Rua do Matão 1371,
Cidade Universitária, 05508- 090 São bibliographic review related to essential oils used in hair care.
Paulo - SP, Brazil.
Results: It was possible to observe that cosmeceuticals containing essential oils ap-
Emails: [email protected];
[email protected] plied to the scalp are preferable for topical activity. Also, it was noticed that there are
few reports regarding their use in hair shaft. However, it was found that some oils are
used to intensify the brightness and fix the hair color.
Conclusions: This work demonstrated that the use of essential oils in both cosmetic
products (industrial application) and those associated with oils carriers (as individual
protocols) may lead to satisfactory results in the treatment of some scalp dysfunctions.

KEYWORDS
cosmeceutical, essential oil, hair, hair care

1 | I NTRO D U C TI O N consumers and scientific researches for products containing bioac-

tive and natural compounds have grown in recent years, probably,
Hair treatments involve the use of cosmetic and dermatological due to the absence of cumulative chemical substances, which can
products in both hair and scalp. A big demand and interest from generate damage to health.1,2

Ursulandréa Sanches Abelan and Andressa Costa de Oliveira should be considered joint first author and equally contributed.

J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021;00:1–12. wileyonlinelibrary.com/journal/jocd © 2021 Wiley Periodicals LLC | 1

2 | ABELAN Et AL.

The main characteristics desired by consumers in the hair care

category are natural ingredients, botanical ingredients, and the
‘free-from’ claims (such as free from salts, sulfates, silicones, para-
bens, and other perceived like harmful components).3
Essential oils (EOs) may be classified as natural, organic, and
vegan, even though there is no specific reference from non-
governmental regulatory agencies regarding the definition and clas-
sification of these products. According to the Grand View Research
report, the global market for organic products is expected to reach
$ 25.11 billion by 2025.4 This trend reflects that the society is more
concerned about the environmental and health impacts.
Worldwide, several certifying companies issue product seals.
Companies that manufacture these products must comply the cer-
tifying companies' particular standards, with strict processes of in-
spection and traceability of input's use, as well as the requirement
of the sustainable use of packaging and production supply chains.
Thus, the raw material companies and formulators of market prod-
ucts must standardize the concepts involved in defining these types F I G U R E 1 Illustration of the hair follicle

of products and manage all stages of the production process to en-

sure that their products are socially and ecologically responsible.5,6
Natural EOs do not contain additives, that is, chemical and/or Therefore, there should be better understanding of its constit-
synthetic ones.7 Moreover, vegan EOs must contain no component uents, the EO chemical and biological properties for further dis-
of animal origin and the absence of any animal testing.5,7 Organic covery of valuable health applications. However, despite the great
EOs are produced with 95% of inputs from organic agriculture, interest and importance of the topic, detailed publications focused
grown free from the use of pesticides or genetically modified organ- on the EO use in hair cosmetics are scarce. Thus, we reinforce that
isms, that is, a sustainable production.6 EOs should be studied as good alternatives or an effective comple-
The EO application has stood out widely in cosmetics as active ment to synthetic compounds in industries, with the main advan-
ingredients or enhancers, perfumery (fragrances), and aromather- tage of low or nonexistent side effects reported. In this sense, the
apy. 2,8,9 Furthermore, they have shown great interest in other gen- relevance of our research is to provide support for health profes-
eral areas as human health, mainly in trichology. sionals (dermatologists, cosmetic formulators, researchers and aes-
Essential oils are soluble in alcohol, ether, and fixed oils, but are thetics) on the development of both products and protocols with
insoluble in water. They are usually in liquid form and colorless at EOs in the treatment of hair dysfunctions. Additionally, this work
room temperature, having a characteristic odor and a lower den- includes a broad and updated bibliographic collection of literature
sity than water, except cinnamon (Cinnamomum verum), sassafras with recent patent applications related to EOs in cosmetic and der-
(Sassafras albidum), and vetiver (Vetiveria zizanioides) oils. According matological hair products.
to the French Standardization Agency, EOs are obtained from plant
parts by some processes, such as steam distillation, mechanical pro-
cesses of the citrus epicarp, and distillation.9 1.1 | Hair anatomy and physiology
Essential oils also have markedly different aromas (emitted by
the plant of origin) and may be used in therapies like massages, Hair is one body part derived from the skin ectoderm.13 The scalp
inhalations, and baths and incorporated in cosmetics and dermo- is a thick layer formed by both skin and hair (attachments of cu-
cosmetics. EOs usually have amazing aromas to be excellent substi- taneous origin), with high hair follicular density (about 100 000–
tutes of the unpleasant odors of most dandruff shampoos, offering a 150 000 hairs in normal conditions) and sebaceous glands
subtle, fresh, and natural aroma.10 attached.14 The hair fiber may be divided into two main regions:
Essential oils can affect the skin cellular function after topical hair follicle (root) and hair shaft. Figure 1 shows an illustration of
application,11 while they provide antibacterial, antifungal, anti- the mentioned portions and annexes. The hair follicle is currently
inflammatory, and antioxidant benefits on the scalp, promoting an considered a mini-organ, due to its ability to regulate its growth
increase in the hair shaft density, cleaning effect on the hair bulb, phases, in which the hair shafts are produced. The lowest part of
and strengthening of the entire bulb/stem system.10,12 Due to these the follicle is the bulb, a region where most of the cellular activ-
and other reasons (i.e., the natural source precedence and the low ity occurs and where the hair thread originates from cell division,
toxicity), several cosmetic products containing EOs are available being essential for hair growth. Therefore, the bulb is highly irri-
on the market promoting therapeutic action on both scalp and hair gated by capillaries due to the necessity to acquire nutrients for the
shaft conditioning. new cells formation.15,16
ABELAN Et AL. | 3

(A)
The shape of the hair shaft is also determined by the bulb, in par-
ticular the degree of axial symmetry/asymmetry of the hair matrix.
The stem is a keratinized cellular extension produced in the fol-
licle, which suffer continuous cytoplasm transformation into hair
leading to hair growth. The stem extends from the hair follicle to
the stratum corneum, that communicate it with the external environ-
ment. Thus, growth occurs in alternating cycles with periods of both
growth and rest throughout bulb life.17
The hair diameter is also determined by the hair follicle size,
which is genetically determined and depends on the migration of
specialized fibroblasts into the hair follicle. The more fibroblasts mi-
grate into the hair follicle, the higher final diameter of the hair shaft.
During life, the hair follicles enter cycles of growth (anagen phase),
regression (catagen phase), rest (telogen phase), and regrowth sev-
eral times. Thus, the hair length is due to time that the hair follicle
remained in the anagen phase.15,17 (B)
In general, the skin scalp is coated with fatty acids that are pro-
vided from the sebum emulsification from the sebaceous gland, that
mixes with water from the sweat glands. Moreover, the sebaceous
glands control the transepidermal water loss from the skin and main-
tain the moisture in the stratum corneum (horny cell layers).18
Despite their shine, body, and texture, the hair shaft is a lifeless
lipoprotein structure, which comprises mainly three structures: cu-
ticles, cortex, and medulla. Figure 2A,B shows the scanning electron
microscopy (SEM) images of a virgin hair sample.
Figure 2A shows the cuticle, the external part of the fibers, in
which condition reflects in their shine and combability.19,20 It also
shows that repeated aesthetic hair treatments can lead to hair
breakage,19,21 and other scalp and hair disorders.16
Figure 2B shows the overlap of the cuticle layers and cortex. The
cortex includes fibrillar structures and other components, such as F I G U R E 2 Virgin hair sample micrographs, evidencing (A) cuticle
melanin, which provides color to the hair fiber, as well as supports (externally) and (B) overlapping cuticle layers and cortex
the hair shaft.19
The medulla is a soft protein layer, centrally positioned in the
fiber, consisting of a large number of lipids. Its function in humans is 2 | E S S E NTI A L O I L S — C H E M I C A L
not well known and it is not always found.19,20 CO M P OS ITI O N
Lipids are another constituent of the hair fiber, either as struc-
tural or as free lipids, and are formed in the hair follicle. They are Essential oils are volatile substances, by-products of plant metab-
basically composed of fatty acids, glycolipids, ceramides, and choles- olism, extracted from various parts, such as flowers, grass, herbs,
terols, which provide protection to the hair fiber. Thus, the lipid bar- fruit, citrus fruits peel, seeds, leaves, bark, rhizomes, and roots.1
rier presence is extremely important to prevent not only the foreign Essential oils may be oily or lipid-like and frequently have a char-
body penetration into the hair structure but also the loose of natural acterizing strong fragrance. They may contain up to approximately
internal moisture hair. Moreover, the formation of the outer hair lipid 100 components, although many of them contain from about 20
film as well as the skin is a continuous process by the replacement to 60. They are generally low-molecular-weight compounds with
of the sebaceous lipids removed by the most diverse agents and limited solubility in water. These components are from a variety of
pathologies.19,22 chemical classes, mainly terpenes (mono-, sesqui-, and di-terpenes)
However, there are internal lipids, such as ceramides, choles- as well as oxygenated compounds (alcohols, oxides, aldehydes, ke-
terol, fatty acids, and cholesterol sulfate, which are not derived from tones, phenols, acids and esters, among others). Terpenes are also
sebum.22 The excessive sebum production by the sebaceous glands known as isoprenes (hydrocarbons with five carbon units), while
promotes some processes, such as exfoliation, irritation as well as en- terpenoids contain oxygen. The terpene biosynthesis begins with
hanced concentration of cholesterol, triglycerides and paraffin frac- the precursor formation (isopentenyl diphosphate, IPP). EOs also
tions with lower content of free fatty acids, squalene, and wax esters.23 differ in physical properties due to acyclic, bicyclic, or monocyclic
4 | ABELAN Et AL.

structures. Moreover, EOs are the largest group of natural com- (0.4%–14.2%), verbenone (4.4%–45.2%), and borneol (1.6%–8.3%)
pounds, with over 30.000 known structures. 24,25 depending on the location and seasonal variations.30
Among the terpenes, the monoterpenes are the most represen- It has the efficacy to reduce microbial contamination in aqueous
tative molecules constituting 90% of EOs with a big variety of chem- emulsions. It has been largely used based on the particular biologi-
ical structures.1 cal properties, such as vasodilation (stimulates blood circulation in
Natural origin terpenes have been highlighted in the cosmetic area the hair follicle); antibacterial, antioxidant, cytotoxic, antimutagenic,
due to not only their low irritation power but also their lipophilicity antiphlogistic action as well as chemopreventive in traditional med-
that enhance skin permeation process. Indeed, several studies have icine and cosmetics products.30,31 However, it should not be used
26,27
proved the terpene efficacy as facilitating skin permeation agents. during pregnancy due to its abortive effect. It has neurotoxic effect
The mechanism of terpene skin permeation includes the net- by the high camphor content (from 6.4% to 30%) being not recom-
work of hydrogen bonds between the ceramides that can be lost by mended for epileptics.1 It should be cautiously used in individuals
hydrogen bond competition. Thus, the accumulation of terpenes in with primary hypertension and diabetes.32
the skin layers facilitates permeation by the stratum corneum and, in
some cases, it can easily reach the blood circulation in vivo. 28
Furthermore, it is expected that hydrocarbon terpenes, such as 2.2 | Eucalyptus globulus (Eucalyptus oil)
limonene, exhibit a better penetration enhancement effect for lipo-
philic drug molecules. Conversely, the terpenes with polar groups, Eucalyptus oil is well known for benefitting the respiratory system
such as menthol, 1,8-cineole, provide a better penetration enhance- and having fatigue recovery effects,33 showing anti-inflammatory
26
ment effect for hydrophilic drug molecules. and decongestant properties.8
Many studies have discussed several EO properties and even that It was reported that the Eucalyptus globulus EO had antibacterial
each EO has a set of potential therapeutic properties based on its activity against Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria resis-
chemical composition.1 These therapeutic properties are defined by tant to antimicrobial agents commonly used, remarking its poten-
the chemical composition in which, generally, the major components tial use a preservative.34 It includes 1,8-cineole (eucalyptol; not less
reflect quite well not only the biophysical but also the biological fea- than 70%), limonene (4%–12%), α-pinene (2%–8%), α-phellandrene
tures of EOs from which they were isolated. 29 However, synergistic (<1.5%), β-pinene (<0.5%), and camphor (<0.1%).35
effects of the several molecules found in EO are not clear yet if com- Its terpenes are the most abundant ones in the eucalyptus
pared to the action of only one or two main isolated components. In leaves, which function is facilitating the ecological interactions as
some cases, the properties of the individual compounds may seem well as providing the characteristic and pleasant odor, with the par-
to be antagonistic to each other. However, such effects allow EOs to ticular economic and industrial value added.36
act in a balanced manner with apparently no side effects.1 Table 1
provides a summary of the main chemical components in EOs that
have therapeutic effects. 2.3 | Melaleuca alternifolia (Tea tree oil)

The tea tree oil, also known as melaleuca oil, is effective in the treat-
2.1 | Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary oil) ment of furuncles, psoriasis, and fungal infections, as well as anti-
microbial with broad-spectrum, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and
Rosemary oil is considered an important material in not only me- anti-skin cancer potential agent. 2,8,11
dicinal but also aromatic areas. It generally contains moderate Its major component is terpinen-4-ol, 2,38 which provides antimi-
levels of 1,8-cineole (12%–61%), camphor (5.8%–24%), α-pinene crobial activity. It also contains as main components: terpinen-4-ol

TA B L E 1 Main organic classes in essential oils and their therapeutic effects1,9,24

Chemical class Therapeutic action Examples

Aldehydes Sedative, anti-inflammatory, antiviral, calming the nervous Neral; citronellal; geranial, cuminal; cinnamal; others.
system, hypotensors, vasodilators
Alcohols Stimulating; anti infectious, strongly bactericidal, antiviral, Geraniol; lavandulol; piperitol; pulegol, α-terpineol;
analgesic, fungicidal linalool; borneol; sclareol; menthol; thymol;
viridiflorol; others
Esters Antispasmodic, balancing, antifungal Benzyl acetate; linalyl acetate; others
Oxides Expectorants, antiviral properties Cineole; 1,4-cineole; linalool oxide; others.
Ketones Cell regenerative, mucolytic, neurotoxic Pulegone; menthone; piperitone; thujone; camphor;
verbenone; germacrone; others.
Phenols Strong antibacterial, immune stimulating, warming Chavicol; p-cresol; carvacrol; others.
ABELAN Et AL. | 5

(39.1%) and delta-terpinene (20.4%).37 Moreover, alpha-terpinene, its anti-inflammatory and analgesic properties may relieve pain and
1,8-cineole, p-cymene, terpinolene, a-terpineol, among others, were soothe irritated skin.45
1,37
reported. It was also possible to verify the antioxidant potential of the
Tea tree oil is incorporated as an active ingredient in many topi- 1,8-cineole (48%) and menthol (39%) also present in this essential
cal formulations to treat cutaneous infections due to their ability to oil in another study.46
reduce the tumor necrosis factor production.38

2.7 | Citrus bergamia (Bergamot oil)

2.4 | Mentha piperita L. (Peppermint oil)
Bergamot oil contains several bioactive molecules in two fractions
The main components of peppermint oil (Mentha piperita L.) reported from the total: volatile (93%–96%) and non-volatile (4%–7%).47 The
were menthol (30%–50%), menthone (15%–30%), menthyl acetate first one includes monoterpene limonene (25%–53%) and high quan-
(2%–9%), neomenthol (4%–8%), 1,8-cineole (4%–7%), isomenthone tities of oxygenated compounds, such as linalool (2%–20%), linalyl
(2%–4%), and menthofuran (1%–7%).39 acetate (15%–40%), γ-terpinene, and β-pinene.48
Menthol is an organic compound having anesthetic properties Limonene has shown effectiveness as a transdermal delivery
that help soothe the skin discomfort. Furthermore, it can increase enhancer, increased human skin permeability, and decreased lag
the sensitivity of cutaneous cold receptors by being able to mod- time.49 The non-volatile fraction contains pigments, waxes, couma-
ulate the Ca2+ currents of neuronal membranes, as well as increase rins, and psoralens, as well as bergamottine.47 Limonene properties
penetration more effectively, especially when associated with include antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, antiproliferative, and anal-
limonene.40 gesic activity, including effects on the cardiovascular central ner-
Peppermint oil has antiviral, antimicrobial, antibacterial, and anti- vous system, as well as in diabetes, and bone and skin metabolism.
inflammatory properties.1 It also has high antifungal potential, antiox- Therefore, it should be used with caution when topically applied
idant activity, antiallergenic, and antitumor actions.
41
It is widely used (usually associated with vegetable oils and directly on the skin).50
in cosmetics, mainly in pharmaceutical products and male grooming. As an interesting result, some studies demonstrated that berga-
mot essential oil has important results in the treatment of psoriasis
and hair growth.51
2.5 | Matricaria chamomilla L. (Chamomile oil)

Chamomile is well reported with antioxidant action, attributed to 2.8 | Pelargonium graveolens (Geranium oil)
the sesquiterpene known as chamazulene. It can reduce inflamma-
tion due to the presence of flavonoids (mainly polyphenols).42 The geranium oil (Pelargonium graveolens L.) shows dominant volatile
Polyphenolic compounds have antioxidant properties, that is, the compounds, such as citronellol (38.0%), geraniol (16.0%), citronellyl
ability to counteract the harmful effects of reactive oxygen species (10.4%), and linalool (6.5%).52
(ROS), which are produced during physiological cellular metabolism Several studies show that EOs and extracts from Pelargonium
and also by external factors like UV radiation and pollutants. 43
This graveolens have activities, such as antibacterial and antifungal,53
oil also is safe for skincare, with anti-inflammatory, anti-erythema, antioxidant, and antitermitic.54 It also has anti-inflammatory, astrin-
antipruritic, and calming effects.11
gent, cicatrizing, homeostatic properties, and antidiabetic proper-
It also contains, farnesene, α-bisabolol, and oxygenated sesqui- ties.1 It was considered as a cleansing and toning to be used to treat
terpenes, such as bisabolone oxide A and bisabolol oxide A and B. 42
greasy skin and eczema.11,55

2.6 | Lavandula angustifolia (Lavender oil) 3 | E S S E NTI A L O I L S I N TH E S K I N

M I C RO B I OTA
Lavandula officinalis/angustifolia contain numerous monoterpenes
(cyneol, borneol, geraniol) and also organic acids, coumarins, mineral Several factors can alter the natural microbiota of the skin and its at-
salts, and tannins, which are responsible for the lavender pharma- tachments, affecting the resident surface colonies, such as environ-
cological activity.44 The main components of lavender essential oil mental changes, geographic location, and the use of both medicines
reported were linalyl acetate (43.1%) and linalool (32.7%).37 and cosmetics. The maintenance of a state of the microbiota physi-
It is traditionally used as an antiseptic agent, relaxant, carmina- ological balance is essential and the formation of a dysbiotic state
tive, and sedative in aromatherapy.37 Its antimicrobial properties may affects the defense functions, such as the skin protective barrier,
help in some treatments, such as viral, bacterial, and fungal over- leading to pathological states. Thus, the EO use helps the physiologi-
growth in the skin by limiting the Malassezia spp. growth. Moreover, cal balance due to their lipophilic characteristic with a consequent
6 | ABELAN Et AL.

formation and maintenance of a protective film in the stratum cor- activity against free radicals; anti-inflammatory and antimicro-
neum as well as the skin microbiota.56,57 bial activities60; anti-pollution61; anti-dandruff62; and anti-hair loss
Essential oils obtained from plants such as lavender (Lavandula activities.63,64
angustifolia), thyme (Thymus vulgaris), peppermint (Mentha piperita The EO active ingredients can penetrate in the scalp quickly,
L.), cajuput (Melaleuca cajuputi), cinnamon (Cinnamomum zeylani- nourish the deep hair follicles, supplement the nutrition, stimulate
cum), clove (Syzygium aromaticum), eucalyptus (Eucalyptus globulus), the hair follicle growth, moisturize the hair roots, strengthen the
sage (Salvia officinalis), and tea tree (Melaleuca alternifolia) have an- hair, and even effectively remove unwanted metabolites that block
timicrobial activities. This effect is due to the presence of phenolic, the pores.63
aromatic, or alcoholic groups, which naturally prevents the devel- Seborrhea is a pathology that can cause oiliness on both scalp
opment of pathogenic microorganisms, with emphasis on Gram- and hair. Currently, there are few compounds capable of reducing
positive bacteria.56 sebaceous gland secretions.58 However, EOs may alleviate the onset
However, there is not a lot of researches about the relationship of seborrheic dermatitis and inhibit the pathology proliferation.
between microbiomes and EOs, requiring new approaches on the Thus, therapies involving the EO topical use may represent an inter-
subject.57 esting alternative in relieving some hair disorders.46
The use of a few EO drops in the final hair rinse or added di-
rectly to shampoo was reported. EOs from rosemary (Rosmarinus of-
4 | E S S E NTI A L O I L S I N H A I R A N D S C A LP ficinalis), West Indies bay (not specified), and chamomile (Matricaria
DISORDERS chamomilla) helped the conditioning and stimulated the hair growth;
lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) may be used to repel lice and fleas,
Recurrent aesthetic treatments on the hair may damage the hair while bergamot (Citrus bergamia), and the tea tree (Melaleuca alterni-
shaft structure and also promote scalp disorders.1,21 However, some folia) may control dandruff.65
dysfunctions may be caused by endogenous factors, such as sys- Some EOs can penetrate the hair follicle and bind to receptors
temic diseases and others related to hair and scalp, that is, dandruff, that stimulate hair growth and are the safest option in the alopecia
seborrheic dermatitis, psoriasis, non-healing alopecia, androgenetic treatment. However, drug interventions with EOs are not well estab-
effluvium, areata, and telogen.16 lished in the scientific literature.13
Many of these pathologies are related to excessive oil in the hair, Chamomile and rosemary are known to improve hair growth and
which may be associated with the accumulation or degradation of prevent hair loss.8,11,65,66 Rosemary oil showed tonic skin properties,
cosmetic hair products or by-products that generates intense scalp promoting a calming effect and hair growth, and the scalp stimulation,
sweating.58 Regardless of the causes, excessive sebum in the scalp thus becoming a proper treatment for both dandruff and oily hair.67
produces the ideal environment for the development and prolifera- Moreover, 3.0% peppermint oil (Mentha piperita L.) facilitated
tion of pathogenic microorganisms, such as Malassezia spp., whose hair growth, have promoted the conservation of the dermal papillae
action may result in itching, dandruff, visible inflammation, reduced vascularization and contributed to the stage early anagen induction.
peripheral blood circulation, and hair loss.16,59 They also reported the effective stimulus for hair growth in an an-
Currently, there are several types of treatments related to hair imal model and that it may be used as a therapeutic or preventive
and scalp disorders, mainly with the use of synthetic products like alternative for hair loss in humans. 28
59
minoxidil, as in the hair loss treatment. The clinical efficacy of rosemary oil (containing at least 3.7 mg
According to Farboud et al.,58 no product applied locally can 1,8-cineole per ml of the product) as well as 2% hydro-alcoholic mi-
cure acute seborrhea, and only relatively toxic synthetic compounds noxidil were reported in patients with androgenetic alopecia (AGA).
with serious adverse effects can reduce the secretion of sebaceous Such EO was as efficient as minoxidil against AGA and it reduced the
glands, such as anti-inflammatory agents as zinc pyrithione, keto- scalp itchiness when compared with the group that used minoxidil.
conazole, and terbinafine. However, it is reported that some dis- They reported the positive effect of the EO antioxidant properties
orders may be treated with the use of specific natural ingredients since AGA promotes oxidative stress and generates a large number
incorporated or not into cosmetic formulations, due to reduced ad- of free radicals. Also, it favors the blood circulation in the hair follicle
verse effects, fewer hypersensitivity reactions, and, in some cases, because of its vasodilation properties.64
13,59
higher effects than the synthetic ones. The Cinnamomum zeylanicum L. EO acts as an important anti-
The field of cosmetic dermatology is growing with the associa- oxidant due to the phenolic and polyphenolic substances. GC-MS
tion between medical treatment of hair diseases and traditional cos- analysis identified cinnamaldehyde (96.8%), α-copaene (0.2%),
metology. Thus, EOs have become increasingly popular in cosmetic α-muurolene (0.11%), p-methoxycinnamaldehyde (0.6%) and δ-
and medicated hair products due to the growing number of reports cadinene (0.4%).68 It is a broad-spectrum bactericide, fungicide, and
regarding their beneficial effects on the scalp and hair.11 parasiticide. In addition, it delayed the oxidative changes in formu-
Particularly in trichology, several EO properties were reported lations with a concomitant extension in the product shelf life. Also,
as an active ingredient and pleasant sensorial properties in cosmetic the free radicals elimination to inhibit the skin lipid peroxidation can
formulations. Among the main properties, EOs have antioxidant activate the blood circulation that aids hair growth. Moreover, it also
ABELAN Et AL. | 7

removes dandruff. However, the pure application in the scalp is con- an alternative in therapy is the association of some EOs, with an ex-
traindicated because it has irritant potential.68,69 pected synergistic effect.
The efficacy of the following EOs thyme (Thymus vulgaris, two
drops, 88 mg), rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis, three drops, 114 mg),
4.1 | Oils carriers of the EOs and formulations lavender (Lavandula angustifolia, three drops, 108 mg), and cedar-
wood (Cedrus atlantica, two drops, 94 mg) in a mixture of carrier veg-
Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), tea tree (Melaleuca alternifolia), etable oils with both jojoba (Simmondsia chinensis, 3 ml) and grape
bergamot (Citrus bergamia), copaiba (Copaifera officinalis) and ylang seed (Vitis vinifera, 20 ml) was tested in the treatment of scalp al-
ylang (Cananga odorata) EOs may be directly applied to the scalp, opecia areata. Such results suggested that this combination is safe
even without dilution because they have low risk of sensitivity and and effective in the alopecia areata treatment and can be used as a
irritation.70,71 However, some EOs contain many concentrated and therapeutic alternative.66
potent components with potential irritation and discomfort in the Essential oils from lavender and tea tree have demonstrated
sensitive skin. Therefore, it is recommended to dilute the EOs in a activity in isolated form.1 Moreover, there is no clinical evidence
carrier substance (vehicle) to avoid the harmful effects related to the regarding the use of thyme oil isolated for hair loss.73 However, its
70,72
concentrated ingredient. use has been reported as biologically active with antibacterial, anti-
The most potent EOs are safe and comfortable for topical appli- fungal and antioxidant activity.66 Furthermore, phenolic compounds
cation, without damaging the tissues. EOs are mimetic to human skin isolated from thyme are effective in protecting biological systems
and scalp and have been used by health professionals and aesthetic against various substances that promote oxidative stress.74
clinics in scalp disorders treatments.10,70–72 Rosemary EO is also known for its vasodilating properties, which
Many types of oil carriers are currently available. For instance, promote increased blood circulation in the hair follicle.64 Lavandula
vegetable oils such as avocado (Persea americana Mill.), coconut angustifolia EO has analgesic activity, soothing, anti-inflammatory,
(Cocos nucifera L.), sweet almond (Amygdalus communis L.), argan antiseptic and healing properties, while Cedrus atlantica EO has
(Argania spinosa), wheat germ (Triticum vulgare), sunflower (Helianthus healing, antiseptic and stimulating properties for skin and scalp
annuus) and grape seed (Vitis vinífera) can prevent the rapid volatil- problems.1
ization of EOs, and even prolong their action. 10
Moreover, it was studied the anti-inflammatory and antibacte-
The safest way for topically EO application is following the spe- rial activities of a mixture of some EOs, which concentrations as
cific instructions based on scientific data and the suitable carrier described in parts by weight as follows: rosemary (Rosmarinus offic-
for its dilution.70,72 In addition to the use of isolated or associated inalis, 10–20 parts), Mediterranean cedar (Cedrus libani, 5–10 parts),
with carrier substances, there are cosmetic formulations that pro- lavender (Lavandula angustifolia, 5–10 parts), ylang ylang (Cananga
mote specific benefits for both scalp and hair shaft. Generally, sham- odorata, 5–10 parts), cedarwood (Cedrus atlantica, 5–10 parts), ge-
poos only clean both hair and scalp, but their formulations may be ranium (Pelargonium graveolens L., 5–10 parts) and orange (Citrus
adapted to the hair shaft and scalp condition, hygienic habits and sinensis, 10 −20 parts). Such study revealed the blood circulation
other specific problems, such as seborrheic dermatitis, dandruff and acceleration in the scalp region, alopecia reduction, sebum produc-
androgenic alopecia.37 tion regulation, dandruff removal and the scalp ulcers treatment.75
The EOs, such as lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), bergamot Although the species has not been clearly specified in this docu-
(Citrus bergamia), and geranium (Pelargonium graveolens) incorporated ment, Mediterranean cedars have been reported as lebanon cedar
into shampoo formulations with pH 5.5–6.5, can show synergistic (Cedrus libani) and have the greatest genetic diversity within the
effects. For instance, purifying the scalp, reduction of irritation, population of all cedars.76 Thus, this EO is used in perfumery and
control of both dandruff and excessive oiliness, thus strengthening personal hygiene due to its pleasant and persistent fragrance. It is
the hair fiber, stimulating the hair follicles (improves circulation) and, also antiseptic for skin diseases and has antibacterial and antifungal
consequently, accelerating hair growth. properties.77
Moreover, it is important to control the scalp oiliness excess Furthermore, the EO combination containing cypress, geranium,
that promotes unpleasant odors and even difficult the proper hair lavender, lemon, tea tree, thyme, clary sage, rosemary, sandalwood,
growth. Therefore, the presence of some aromatic substances in the palmarosa, chamomile, eucalyptus, basil, and ylang-ylang was in-
EOs coupled to their particular chemical composition in hair formu- corporated in a shampoo to minimize both hair loss and dandruff.
lations promotes physical, mental, and emotional balance, while add- However, the species are not specified in such document.33
28,46
ing pleasant odors to fiber and scalp. The literature also related the EO antioxidant activity of the fol-
lowing species: Eucalyptus camaldulensis, rosemary (Rosmarinus offic-
inalis), coriander (Coriandrum sativum L.), juniper (Juniperus drupacea
4.2 | Blending of oils in the benefits to scalp L.), cumin (Cuminum cyminum), basil (Ocimum basilicum L), cinnamon
(Cinnamomum zeylanicum), clove (Eugenia caryophyllata), and thyme
It is also known that, in addition to the main effect produced by a spe- (Thymus spathulifolius).8,78,79
cific component of a single EO, there is also an effect enhancement Moreover, it was also reported the toxicity of the 1,8-cineole
after the application of two or more EOs in a mixture.1 Therefore, monoterpene (one of the main derivatives from Eucalyptus
8 | ABELAN Et AL.

globulus leaf oil), which is responsible for the effectiveness in the (Rosmarinus officinalis), eucalyptus (Eucalyptus globulus), tangerine
lice treatment.80 (Citrus rind), and tea tree (Melaleuca alternifolia) have also been re-
The EOs of tea tree (Melaleuca alternifolia), rose (Rosa dama- ported by promoting shine in the hair stem.70
scena), pomelo (Citrus grandis Peel) and fennel (Foeniculum vulgare) Table 2 summarizes the main EOs with plant origin and their der-
have been described as moisturizers, while thyme oils (Thymus vul- mocosmetic and cosmetic applications in the literature.
garis), lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) and sage (Salvia sclarea) are
indicated against dandruff and alopecia.33,81
Another EO association with unspecified species, such as lav- 4.3 | Toxicity of the essential oils
ender, allspice (Pimenta officinalis), sage, thyme, rose, ylang ylang,
juniper (Juniperus communis), basil, and mint, was indicated for the The body regions with a large number of pilosebaceous orifices,
82
seborrheic alopecia treatment. It was reported that the ylang ylang highly vascularized and the mucous membranes are highly perme-
EO stimulates the skin, corrects disturbances in sebaceous secre- able areas for EO penetration due to their high lipophilic nature.88
tion, stimulates hair growth and smoothness. Moreover, the juniper Pure EOs are often highly toxic.89 Their toxicity involves the dose,
EO improves the sebum on the scalp; the basil EO slows skin aging; composition, dilution, frequency of use and application.90 The most
clean the sebum and nourish the scalp; and the peppermint EO re- frequent undesirable effects are those resulting from direct contact
freshes and eliminates body toxins and relieves itching, inflammation of EOs with the skin, such as dermal reactions, contact dermatitis,
as well as burns.63,82 phototoxicity/photosensitivity reactions by sun exposure,55,91 In
Geranium flower (Pelargonium graveolens) EO was used as a regu- particular, EOs containing cinnamic alcohol, aldehyde, eugenol, and
33,63
lator of skin secretion, maintaining the oil balance. The combina- baptapene have induced several effects from blemishes to burns.92
tion of EOs, such as wheat germ (95 parts), rosemary leaf (one part), In other words, applying undiluted EOs is potentially dangerous,
geranium leaf (two parts), lavender (one part), and jasmine flower especially on diseased, damaged, or inflamed skin, once these oils
(Jasminum grandiflorum) (one part), was added to the hair dye to in- are highly concentrated and a greater amount will be absorbed and
83
crease color durability and reduce damage to the hair process. worsen the skin, and even dermal sensitization reactions could be
The EO combination containing sweet orange, bergamot palm, triggered.89 However, proper use drastically reduces potential risks.
lemon, grapefruit, citronella (Cymbopogon winterianus), Taiwanese When applied directly into the skin or scalp, the correct procedure
cypress wood, pine powders, and German chamomile helped in con- is to occlude/dilute a small amount in base oil (vegetable oil) or clays
trolling the oil, relieved itching with anti-itch effect as well as allergic (white, green, and black).70,71 Table 3 resumes possible carrier oils
84
and removed dandruff. and toxicity of some EOs.
Kim et al.59 adopted an in vitro method with extract of yeast
Malassezia globosa, arachidonic acid, linoleic acid and dihydrotes-
tosterone as inductors of seborrheic dermatitis with the EOs from 5 | CO N C LU S I O N S A N D PE R S PEC TI V E S
Cinnamomum zeylanicum (cinnamon), and Mentha arvensis. These EO
had an inhibitory effect on sebum synthesis and the growth of the Our study showed that EOs are so attractive to assist trichologists,
yeast M. globosa, suggesting effectiveness in the relief of protection doctors, as well as health professionals in their patients' treat-
from seborrheic dermatitis of the scalp. The authors verified import- ment. We summarized the EOs used in cosmetics for scalp and
ant antioxidant and antimicrobial activities, promoting effectiveness hair shaft care. Thus, the studies demonstrated that the oils have
in the treatment and relief of symptoms. Another advantage of such interesting effects, mainly, in the scalp, such as anti-hair loss, anti-
EOs in the hair is their ability to provide shine, conditioning effects inflammatory, anti-bacterial, antioxidant, anxiety-relieving and stim-
65
and also to protect and enhance the scalp health. ulant. Furthermore, their lipophilic characteristic aid maintaining the
Lemon oil (Satureja montana) has been used as an anti-pollution physiological microbiota balance of both scalp and skin, since once
agent for keratin fibers, in particular for hair.61 Moreover, it was modified can affect the normal defense functions, mainly the skin
demonstrated that 5% of the tea tree oil in the shampoo was effec- protective barrier, leading to pathological states. Other studies and
85
tive in reducing dandruff and is well tolerated by patients. researches demonstrated that EOs have promoted shine, emollience,
It was reported the use of tea tree oil, as a popular ingredient, in pleasant scent, and durability of the color dye in the shaft hair.
a variety of household products and cosmetics, including shampoos, These cosmetic ingredients can be used isolated directly on
massage oils, skin and nail creams.38 the skin, in association with other essential oils, diluted in carrier
Essential oil of geranium prevents split ends and promotes substances (such as vegetable oils), and even incorporated into der-
brightness and softness to the hair.10 As EO are a mixture of volatile mocosmetic formulations for the scalp treatment. They can also in
lipophilic constituents, EOs have high affinity for fat or for lipophilic specific functions, such as the regulation of sebum secretion, hair
substances, forming a film on the hair shaft, which promotes emol- growth stimulation, relief the scalp inflammation, oil control itching,
86
lience, brightness and reduces electrical charges. among others, when incorporated into several formulations. Among
Essential oils from lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), mint pep- cosmetics forms, shampoos, and tonics containing EOs are the main
per (Mentha piperita), cedarwood (Cedrus atlantica), rosemary products of interest aimed to clean the hair shaft and scalp. They are
 ABELAN Et AL.
TA B L E 2 Plant-derived essential oils and their applications

Concentration
Essential oil Plant source Hair/scalp application Cosmetic type w/w (%a )

Rosemary Rosmarinus officinalis Prevent hair loss and hair growth, promote blood circulation, Hair tonic and shampoo 0.5%–1.0%
stimulate hair regeneration; astringent of the scalp, oil
control itching, smooth the scalp.33,64 Terpenes with
agents that facilitate skin permeation26,27
Eucalyptus Eucalyptus globulus Agent against louse peniculids80; control sebum; good for Moisturizing cream and shampoo 1.0%–5.0%
scalp33
Lemon Mountain Savory Satureja montana Anti-dandruff agent, in particular cells caused by yeasts of Shampoo, gel or lotion. 0.5%–5.0%
the genus Malassezia. Restore the scalp ecoflora62
Tea tree Melaleuca alternifolia Anti-dandruff agent, effective against seborrheic Hair tonic and shampoo 2.0%–3.0%
dermatitis85; effective for dry scalp; inflammation scalp33
Peppermint Mentha piperita Contract microvessels, relieve itching, inflammation and Shampoo and conditioner 0.5%
burns83
Chamomile Matricaria chamomilla Promote hair growth65 Hair tonic, shampoo and conditioner 0.5%–10.0%
33,66
Lavender Lavandula angustifolia Stimulate the hair growth Hair tonic, shampoo and conditioner 0.5%–5.0%
Bergamot Citrus bergamia Control and eliminate seborrhea and alopecia on the scalp87 Hair tonic 0.5%–6.0%
33,63
Geranium Pelargonium graveolens Regulator the secretion of the skin ; balance scalp oiliness; Shampoo and conditioner 0.5%–1.0%
improve blood flow; anti-hair loss; anti-dandruff agent33
Cedarwood Cedrus atlantica Promote hair growth66 Hair tonic and shampoo 0.5%–2.0%
82
Basil Ocimum sanctum Regulate the grease Shampoo and conditioner 2.5%–5.0%
Ylang-Ylang Cananga odorata Regulate sebum secretion of skin, stimulate hair Conditioner and hair tonic 0.8%–2.0%
growth,33,63,82 relieve scalp inflammation, make the hair
shiny63; anti-hair loss, anti-dandruff33,70
Thyme Thymus vulgaris Promote hair growth66; stimulate blood circulation of the Hair tonic and shampoo 0.5%–5.0%
scalp, strength the hair roots, alleviate dandruff and anti-
hair loss33
a
% values to be used incorporated in cosmetic formulations.

|
9
10 | ABELAN Et AL.

TA B L E 3 Characteristics of the essential oils (toxicity and possible carrier oils)55,90,91

Essential oil Plant source Toxicity Carrier oil

Basil Ocimum sanctum Photosensitive or aggressive to skin Vegetable oil from jojoba, grape seed, sesame
Bergamot Citrus bergamia Phototoxic, sensitizing, which can cause burns, Vegetable oil from coconut, sweet almond,
allergic dermatitis and skin irritation. jojoba, grape seed, sesame
Cedarwood Cedrus atlantica Skin irritation Vegetable oil from coconut, jojoba
Chamomile Matricaria chamomilla NI Almond vegetable oil
Eucalyptus Eucalyptus globulus Nausea, vomiting and diarrhea. In extreme Vegetable oil from Wheat Germ, flaxseed
cases, it can lead to seizures and death.
Geranium Pelargonium graveolens Skin allergy and irritation Vegetable oil from avocado, jojoba
Lavender Lavandula angustifolia NI Vegetable oil from wheat germ, jojoba,
avocado, sesame, coconut, almond, grape
seed, sesame
Peppermint Mentha piperita Contact dermatitis Vegetable oil from coconut, sweet almond,
jojoba, grape seed, sesame
Rosemary Rosmarinus officinalis Neurotoxic and convulsive. Contraindicated in Vegetable oil from avocado, jojoba
pregnant women, asthmatics, people with a
history of epilepsy and hypertension.
Tea tree Melaleuca alternifolia Allergies can occur, being rarer in high quality Vegetable oil from wheat germ, jojoba,
oils with cineole levels below 2.8% avocado, sesame, coconut
Thyme Thymus vulgaris Aggressive to skin Vegetable oil from wheat germ
Ylang-Ylang Cananga odorata Toxic and neurotoxic action, sensitizing, may Vegetable oil from avocado, jojoba
cause allergies and skin irritation

Abbreviation: NI, no information available.

used according to their state; hair quality; habit of taking care of the E T H I C A L A P P R OVA L
hair, specific problems, among others. This is a review paper, and an ethics committee is not necessary.
Finally, it is important to highlight the need for further studies
on the use of essential oils in hair treatments, mainly due to the DATA AVA I L A B I L I T Y S TAT E M E N T
great variation in the concentration of actives due to the method Data sharing is not applicable to this article as no new data were cre-
of extraction, collection time, climatic conditions, geographic loca- ated or analyzed in this study.
tion, lack of standardization, low stability and reduced activity when
compared to synthetic actives. ORCID
Ursulandréa Sanches Abelan https://orcid.org/0000-0003-3200-7218
AC K N OW L E D G M E N T S Andressa Costa de Oliveira https://orcid.
The authors are greatly thankful to the Brazilian Agency Coordenação org/0000-0001-7522-1412
de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior—CAPES—for the Érica Savassa Pinto Cacoci https://orcid.org/0000-0002-7978-9694
support. Tércio Elyan Azevedo Martins https://orcid.org/0000-0002-7111-1029
Virginia Mansanares Giacon https://orcid.org/0000-0003-3628-7317
C O N FL I C T O F I N T E R E S T Maria Valéria Robles Velasco https://orcid.org/0000-0003-4950-8510
The authors declare no conflict of interest. Cibele Rosana Ribeiro de Castro Lima https://orcid.
org/0000-0002-2352-1007
AU T H O R C O N T R I B U T I O N
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