Biosand Filter Manual: Design, Construction, Installation, Operation and Maintenance

BIOSAND FILTER MANUAL
Design, Construction, Installation, Operation and Maintenance
January 2008
COMPILED AND PUBLISHED BY:
BAY 12, 2916 – 5TH AVENUE

CALGARY, ALBERTA
CANADA, T2A 6K4
PHONE + 1 (403) 243-3285
FAX + 1 (403) 243-6199
E-MAIL: [email protected]
WEB: WWW.CAWST.ORG
CAWST and its employees, contractors, directors, and volunteers do not assume any
responsibility for and make no warranty with respect to the results that may be obtained from the
use of the information provided. Under ideal circumstances, the biosand filter can produce
drinking water of high quality. However, this cannot always be assured or guaranteed due to
variations in the construction and installation of the filter. CAWST shall not be liable to anyone
whatsoever for any damage resulting from reliance on any information provided in the document
or attachments thereto. This also applies to the consumption of water from the biosand filter. It
should be noted that the biosand filter cannot be relied upon to remove certain or all forms of
water contamination.
CAWST and the authors hereby provide permission to reproduce all or portions of this manual
with the intention of increasing the availability to those who need it. CAWST welcomes enquires
from any individual or organization wishing to use any material from this manual for non-
commercial purposes.
Cover photos: Left photo courtesy of South Asia Pure Water Initiative, Inc. (pictured: young girl
in India). Right photo courtesy of Tommy Ngai (pictured: Ganesh Harijan, Nepal)
PREFACE
The Centre for Affordable Water and Sanitation Technology (CAWST) is a registered Canadian charity
that provides professional services - training, education, and technical consulting in water and sanitation -
to organizations and individuals that serve the poor in developing countries.
Improving water quality at the household level, with point-of-use technologies such as the biosand filter,
has proven to be effective in reducing health risks and rates of water-related diseases among end users.
This manual is a tool that can be used in training courses on the biosand filter. It is a practical reference
guide for project implementers, trainers, product manufacturers, and community health workers involved in
promoting the biosand filter for household water treatment in developing countries.
Specifically, this manual is designed for CAWST clients, including local non-governmental organizations
(NGOs), multinational NGOs, governments, research institutions, private sector organizations and
individuals.
The manual illustrates the design, construction, installation, operation and maintenance of the biosand
filter. It provides a) background information to understand how the biosand filter works, b) step-by-step
instructions, and c) checklists and forms that can be used throughout the production, installation and
follow-up process.
For further information on CAWST training programs and professional services in water and sanitation
please visit our website at www.cawst.org.
January 2008 1
TABLE OF CONTENTS
ACRONYMS............................................................................................................................ 3
UNIT CONVERSIONS ............................................................................................................ 3
INTRODUCTION TO CAWST ............................................................................................... 4

OVERVIEW OF THE BIOSAND FILTER ............................................................................. 5
THE FILTRATION PROCESS................................................................................................ 8
PATHOGEN REMOVAL ...................................................................................................... 10
ARSENIC REMOVAL........................................................................................................... 11
ADVANTAGES OF THE BIOSAND FILTER ..................................................................... 12
BIOSAND FILTER OPERATION ........................................................................................ 13
SUMMARY OF CONTAMINANT REMOVAL EFFICIENCY .......................................... 16
CONSTRUCTION SAFETY ................................................................................................. 17
FILTER TOOL KIT................................................................................................................ 18
TOOLS AND MATERIALS .................................................................................................. 17
MATERIALS LIST ................................................................................................................ 19
FLOW CHART FOR BIOSAND FILTER CONSTRUCTION............................................. 21
APPENDIX A: STEEL MOLD FABRICATION .................................................................. 22

APPENDIX B: SIEVE SET CONSTRUCTION.................................................................... 42
APPENDIX C: MEDIA PREPARATION ............................................................................. 44
APPENDIX D: CONCRETE FILTER CONSTRUCTION ................................................... 49
APPENDIX E : DIFFUSER AND LID.................................................................................. 58
APPENDIX F: INSTALLATION, OPERATION, AND MAINTENEANCE ...................... 66
APPENDIX G: FILTER CONSTRUCTION CHECKLIST .................................................. 77
APPENDIX H: QUALITY CONTROL CHECKLIST .......................................................... 78
APPENDIX I: INSTALLATION CHECKLIST .................................................................... 79
APPENDIX J: FILTER PRODUCTION RECORD .............................................................. 80
APPENDIX K: COSTING AND PRICING FORM (1)......................................................... 81
APPENDIX L: COSTING AND PRICING FORM (2) ......................................................... 82
APPENDIX M: FILTER CONSTRUCTION MONITORING.............................................. 83
APPENDIX N: HOUSEHOLD MONITORING ................................................................... 85
APPENDIX O: SAND SIEVE ANALYSIS........................................................................... 87
January 2008 2
ACRONYMS
CAWST Centre for Affordable Water and Sanitation Technology

CEO Chief Executive Officer
ES effective size
HWT household water treatment
HTH high test hypochlorite
ID inner diameter
NADCC sodium dichloroisocyanurate
NGO non-governmental organization
NTU nephelometric turbidity units
QTY quantity
SODIS solar disinfection
UC uniformity coefficient
UN United Nations
UV ultraviolet
UNIT CONVERSIONS
Length or Distance
1 foot = 0.30 metres 1 inch = 2.54 cm 1 mm = 0.1 cm

1 metre = 3.28 feet 1 cm = 0.39 inches 1 cm = 10 mm
Volume or Area
1 gallon = 3.78 litres
1litre = 0.26 gallons
cm centimetre m metre
ft foot min minute
kg kilogram mm millimetre
L litre ‘ foot
lb pound “ inch
January 2008 3
INTRODUCTION TO CAWST
The History
Recognizing it as an ideal option for developing country applications, Dr. David Manz, a professor from
the University of Calgary, developed the biosand filter in the early 1990’s to provide inexpensive, safe,
drinking water for communities in developing countries. The Centre for Affordable Water and Sanitation
Technology (CAWST) was co-founded in 2001 by current President and Chief Executive Officer (CEO),
Camille Dow Baker, and Dr. Manz to answer the question, “How can we get proven technologies in the
hands of the millions that need safe water?"
The CAWST Model
CAWST started with the belief that the poor in the developing world deserve safe water and basic
sanitation. CAWST also believes that the place to start is to teach people the skills necessary to have safe
water in their homes. The goal of the CAWST model is to pass knowledge and skills to organizations and
individuals in developing countries through education, training and consulting services. They, in turn, can
motivate households to take action and meet their own water and sanitation needs.
CAWST’s main strategies are to:
• Make knowledge about water “common knowledge”;

• Build the capacity of local public sector organizations, both NGOs and government agencies;
• Focus on household water treatment (HWT);
• Lead with the education and training; and
• Identify barriers to implementation of water and sanitation projects and ways to overcome them.
This approach:
• Empowers, motivates and generates grass roots action within the community;
• Provides opportunities for continuous learning and support;
• Generates multiple, independent actions required to reach the United Nations (UN) Millennium
Development Goals for water and sanitation; and
• Has received growing international recognition:
Ernst & Young Entrepreneur of the Year Award, Special Recognition, Canada (2007).
Special Consultative Status, UN Economic and Social Council (2006).
Kyoto World Water Grand Prize, Finalist, Mexico (2006).
Water Action Competition, Top 10 Finalist, World Water Forum, Kyoto (2003).
Best Practice to Improve the Living Environment, Top 40 Finalist, UN Habitat (2004).
For further information about our results and global impact, please visit www.cawst.org/index.php?id=64.
January 2008 4
OVERVIEW OF THE BIOSAND FILTER
What is the biosand filter?
The biosand filter is a modified form of the traditional slow sand filter in such a way that the filters can be
built on a smaller scale and can be operated intermittently. These modifications make the biosand filter
suitable for household or small group use. The biosand filter can be produced locally anywhere in the
world
using materials that are readily available.
The biosand filter should be used as part of a multi-barrier approach which is the best way to reduce the
health risk of drinking unsafe water. Barriers which protect water from pathogens can occur in each of the
following steps:
Step 1 – Protecting the water source

Step 2 – Sedimentation
Step 3 – Filtration (e.g. biosand filter)
Step 4 – Disinfection
Step 5 – Safely storing water after treatment
Filter Lid
Prevents contaminants from entering the filter.
Diffuser Plate
Protects the biological layer from damage when water is
poured into the filter.
Outlet Pipe – 6 mm (¼”) inner diameter (I.D.)

Conducts water from filter base to outside.
Sand Layer – 40 to 50 cm deep

Traps organic and inorganic material at the top of the
filter media.
Separating Gravel Layer – 6 mm (¼”) size – 5 cm deep

Prevents sand from plugging under drain gravel.
Underdrain Gravel Layer – 12 mm (½”) size – 5 cm deep

Promotes flow of water into outlet pipe.
January 2008 5
Sand Layer
• Ideally obtained from clean, crushed rock.
• Screened through 0.7 mm (24 mesh) wire sieve of perforated metal sheet.
• Washed to ensure an Effective Size (ES) of 0.10 to 0.25 mm (prefer 0.15 to 0.20 mm) and
Uniformity Coefficient (UC) of 1.5 to 2.5 (prefer <2). See Appendix O Sieve Analysis for more
information.
Concrete Filter Body

• Mix concrete (by hand or with mixer).
o 1 part normal (ordinary or general use) cement (approximately 15 kg [33 lb])
o 1 part clean gravel 6 mm (1/4”)
o 1 part clean gravel 12 mm (1/2”)
o 2 parts clean sand
• Weight when empty – 72 kg (170 lb).
• Weight when full of sand and water - 160 kg (350 lb).
Diffuser Plate
• Required to prevent the disturbance of the sand layer when water is poured into the filter.
• Can be made of various materials that are suitable to be submerged in water such as heavy plastic,
acrylic, plexiglass, or galvanized metal.
• 100 holes, no larger than 0.3 cm (1/8”) diameter, are drilled or punched in the material on a
2.5 cm x 2.5 cm (1” x 1”) grid.
• If arsenic removal is desired, the diffuser must be made in a box shape and filled with 5 kg (11 lb) non-
galvanized less than 2.5 cm (1”) long iron nails. The hole diameter can be made larger 0.6 cm (1/4”) if
excessive iron clogging occurs.
Lid
• Tightly fitting lid prevents contamination of water and unwanted pests.
• Can be made from various materials, usually wood or galvanized metal.
Mold Design
The steel mold used for the biosand filter is designed to produce a good final product, while being easy to
use. With good care and maintenance, this mold should be suitable for several years of filter construction.
The mold design has gone through eight generations of improvements, but there may still be revisions that
would add value.
How does the filter work?

A bucket of contaminated water is poured into the top of the biosand filter. The water simply flows through
the filter and is collected in another storage container at the base of the spout. A biological layer (often
called the biolayer) of slime, sediment and microorganism develops at the sand surface. Pathogens and
suspended material are removed through various physical and biological processes that occur in the
biolayer and sand.
When water is flowing through the filter, oxygen is supplied to the biolayer by the dissolved oxygen in the
water. During pause times, when the water is not flowing, the oxygen is obtained by diffusion from the air.
If the standing water layer is kept shallow, enough oxygen is able to pass through to the microorganisms to
keep them alive and effective.
January 2008 6
The biosand filter has six different distinct zones: 1) inlet reservoir, 2) standing water, 3) biolayer, 4)
biological zone, 5) sand zone, and 6) gravel zone.
Inlet Reservoir: Space above the sand and gravel media

which allows for a full pail of water.
Standing Water: Oxygen diffuses through the standing water

to the biolayer.
Biolayer: Layer of slime, sediment, and microorganisms

which develops at the top 1-2 cm (0.4-0.8”) of the sand
surface.
Biological Zone: Develops at the top 5-10 cm (2-4”) of the
sand surface. The sand absorbs pathogens, iron, and other
small particles.
Sand Zone: Contains virtually no living microorganisms
due to lack of nutrients and oxygen.
Gravel Zone: Holds the sand in place which protects the

outlet pipe from clogging and allows for the smooth flow of
water.
January 2008 7
THE FILTRATION PROCESS
The Start of the Run
The inlet water contains dissolved oxygen, nutrients and

contaminantss. The high water level pushes the water
through the filter. After passing through the diffuser plate,
the inlet water mixes with the standing water.
The standing water is lower in oxygen, nutrients, and

pathogens than the inlet water because they were consumed
during the pause period. The inlet water provides the
oxygen required by the microorganisms in the biolayer.
Sediment and larger pathogenss are strained out at the top

of the sand.
Halfway Through the Run
The water level in the reservoir goes down as it filters through the
sand. The flow rate will slow down because there is less pressure.
Sediment and larger pathogens are strained out and they partially
plug the pore spaces between the sand grains. This also causes the
flow rate to slow down.
January 2008 8
The End of the Run
The water flow finally stops. The standing water layer will be
at the same height as the outlet of the pipe.
Pathogens in the inlet water are consumed and those from the
previous run which were partially consumed are more
completely broken down. Pathogen removal increases with
time because of the slower flow rate and the decreased size of
pore openings.
The Pause Period
Some oxygen from the air passes through the standing

water to the biolayer.
The pause period allows time for microorganisms in the

biolayer to consume the nutrients and pathogens in the
water. The flow rate through the filter is restored as they are
consumed. If the pause period is too long, the biolayer will
eventually consume all of the pathogens and nutrients and
eventually die off. This will reduce the removal efficiency
of the filter when it is used again. A 6 to 12 hour pause
period is recommended with a minimum of 1 hour and a
maximum of 48 hours.
Microorganisms in the sand zone die off due to the lack of

nutrients and oxygen.
January 2008 9
PATHOGEN REMOVAL
The biosand filter bed is constructed with three types of media: sand, separating gravel, and underdrain
gravel. When a bucket of contaminated water is poured into the top of biosand filter, the water simply
flows through the different media layers. There are four processes that remove pathogens as the water
passes through the filter.
A. Mechanical trapping
Sediment and pathogens are physically trapped in the spaces between sand grains.
B. Predation
Pathogens are consumed by other microorganisms in the standing water and biolayer.
C. Adsorption/Attraction
Pathogens become attached to each other, sediment, and the sand grains.
D. Natural death
Pathogens finish their life cycle or die because there is not enough food and oxygen for them to survive.
Biosand filters have been shown to remove 90-99% of pathogens found in water. The filter has been tested
by various government, research, and health institutions, as well as by non-governmental agencies in both
laboratory and field settings.
Overall, these studies have shown that the biosand filter removes:
• > 97% of E. coli - an indicator of fecal contamination (Duke, 2006; Stauber, 2006)
• > 99% of protozoa and helminths (Palmateer, 1999)
• 80-90% of viruses (Stauber, 2005)
• 50-90% of organic and inorganic toxicants (Palmateer, 1999)
• 90-95% of iron (Ngai, 2007)
• Most suspended sediments
Based on slow sand filter research, the biosand filter may also remove some heavy metals
(Muhammad, 1997; Collins, 1998). There is also a design modification known as the KanchanTM
Arsenic Filter that is effective in removing both pathogens and 85-90% of arsenic from source water
(Ngai, 2007).
Preliminary health impact studies estimate a 30-40% reduction in diarrhea among all age groups,
including children under the age of five, an especially vulnerable population (Liang, 2007; Sobsey,
2007).
January 2008 10
ARSENIC REMOVAL
The biosand filter can remove a certain level of arsenic from water by adding non-galvanized iron nails,
covered by a layer of brick chips. The diffuser plate is replaced with a deep diffuser basin that can hold the
nails and brick chips. The iron nails will quickly rust after contact with water and air. Iron rust (ferric
hydroxide) is an excellent adsorbent for arsenic. When arsenic-containing water is poured into the filter,
surface reactions with the iron occurs, and arsenic is rapidly adsorbed onto the surface of the rusty nails.
The arsenic loaded iron particles are then flushed down and trapped on top of the sand layer. The brick
chips help to evenly disperse the water over the nails to allow for further absorption.
Lid Diffuser Basin
Brick Chips
Iron Nails
Outlet Pipe
Sand Layer
Separating Gravel
Underdrain Gravel
For instructions on Arsenic Removal see Appendix F.
January 2008 11
ADVANTAGES OF THE BIOSAND FILTER
Functional
The biosand filter is a ‘point of use’ or household treatment device. Water can be obtained from the closest
water supply point, whether that is a river, a stream or a well, and used immediately after filtering. The
water supply, treatment, and distribution are all within the control of the individual householder. Effective
use of the technology does not require user groups or other community support which are sometimes
difficult to develop and sustain. The independence of the household makes this technology extremely
suitable for developing countries which often lack the governance and regulatory processes needed for
effective and efficient community water systems.
High User Acceptability

The biosand filter is easy to use and it improves the look and taste of water. As well, the filter takes up very
little space and can easily fit into most rooms. In fact, previous experience has shown that the filter
normally occupies a place of significance in the living room because it is so important to the individual
household.
User-friendly
It is simple to operate and maintain the filter. There are no moving parts that require skill to operate. When
the water flow through the filter becomes too slow, the maintenance consists simply of washing the top few
centimetres of sand. Operating and maintaining the filter is well within the capacity of the household users.
Durable
The filter box is made of cement concrete with a built-in pipe. It is very durable since there are no moving
parts during operation. The filter may need occasional replacement of iron nails (e.g. for arsenic removal)
or wooden components (e.g. the lid) that may deteriorate over time.
Sufficient Water Quantity

The recommended flow rate for a biosand filter is 0.6 L/minute (measured when the filter box is full of
water). Based on this flow rate and the time required for pause periods, the biosand filter can effectively
treat 60-80 L/day.
Affordable
The cost of a concrete biosand water filter varies from country to country and ranges from US$12-30
depending on the material and labour costs. Its main components (concrete, sand and gravel) are readily
available in all developing countries. Manufacturing the filters involves a significant amount of manual
labour to mix the concrete and pour it into the filter mold. The skills required to do this are readily
available in developing countries at a very low cost. The labour can also be provided by the individual
home owner.
Limitations
The biosand filter cannot remove some dissolved substances (e.g. salt, hardness), some organic chemicals
(e.g., pesticides and fertilizers), or color, and cannot guarantee that the water is pathogen free. The biosand
filter should be used as part of the multi-barrier approach for providing safe water. Similar to other types of
water filters, it is recommended to disinfect the water after it has passed through the biosand filter.
January 2008 12
BIOSAND FILTER OPERATION
Water Source
The biosand filter can use any water source such as rainwater, deep groundwater, shallow groundwater,
rivers, lakes or other surface waters. The source should be the cleanest available since the filter is only able
to remove a certain percent of the pathogens. If the source water is highly contaminated, the outlet water
may still have some contaminants.
The same source of water should be used consistently because the biolayer cannot quickly adapt to
different water quality. Over time, the microorganisms in the biolayer become used to a certain amount of
contamination from the source water. If different source water with a higher level of contamination is used,
the biolayer may not be able to consume all of the pathogens. It may take the biolayer several days to adapt
to the new source water and level of contamination. Experiments have shown that the largest portion of
bacteria from a more contaminated source water show up in the filtered water the next day (see Summary
Table: Contaminant Removal Efficiency of the Biosand Filter; Buzanis 1995).
The turbidity (cloudiness in water) of the source water is also a key factor in the operation of the filter.
Nephelometric turbidity units (NTU) measure the level of suspended matter (organic and silt particles) in
water. If the turbidity is greater than 50 NTU, the source water should be settled or strained before it goes
though the biosand filter. A simple test to measure the turbidity is to use a 2 litre clear plastic soft drink
bottle filled with the source water. Place this on top of large print such as the CAWST logo on this manual.
If you can see this logo looking down through the top of the bottle, the water probably has a turbidity of
less than 50 NTU.
Establishing the Biolayer

The biolayer is the key pathogen removing component of the filter. Without it, the filter removes some
contamination through screening of the sediment and microorganisms (only 30-70% removal efficiency).
The ideal biolayer will remove 90-99% of pathogens. It may take up to 30 days to establish the biolayer.
During that time, both the removal efficiency and the oxygen demand will increase as the biolayer grows.
The biolayer is NOT usually visible – it is not a green slimy coating on top of the sand.
The water from the filter can be used during the first few weeks while the biolayer is being established, but
disinfection, as always, is recommended during this time.
Figure 1 illustrates how the biolayer is established. The process may vary as some filters require a shorter
or longer period of time to establish the biolayer depending on the source of water being used.
Figure 1 Establishing the Biolayer
99 After cleaning, the removal

efficiency declines somewhat,
but returns to its previous level
as the biolayer is re-established.
Pathogen
Removal
Efficiency
(%) The removal efficiency will
vary as the biolayer develops.
30
January 2008 Time Required (days) 13
Flow Rate
The biosand filter has been designed to allow for a filter loading rate (flow rate per square metre of filter
area) which has proven to be effective in laboratory and field tests. This filter loading rate has been
determined to be not more than 600 litres/hour/square metre.
The recommended flow rate for the standard concrete biosand filter shown in this manual is 0.6 L/minute
measured when the inlet reservoir is full of water. If the flow rate is much faster, the filter may become less
efficient at removing pathogens. If the flow rate is much slower, the household user may become impatient
and not use the filter at all even though the filter is working well at removing pathogens. Since the flow
rate is controlled by the size of the sand grains, it is very important to select and prepare the sand according
to the instructions provided in Appendix B.
Pause Period
The biosand filter is most effective and efficient when operated intermittently and consistently. A
recommended pause period is 6 to 12 hours with a minimum of 1 hour and a maximum of 48 hours.
The pause period is important because it allows time for the microorganisms in the biolayer to consume the
pathogens in the water. As the pathogens are consumed, the flow rate through the filter may be restored. If
the pause period is extended for too long, the microorganisms will eventually consume all of the nutrients
and pathogens and then eventually die off. This will reduce the removal efficiency of the filter when it is
used again.
Water Depths
Correct installation and operation of the biosand filter has a water level of approximately 5 cm (2”) above
the sand during the pause period.
A water depth of greater than 5 cm (2”) results in lower oxygen diffusion and consequently a thinner
biological zone. A high water level can be caused by a blocked outlet pipe or by an insufficient amount of
sand.
A water depth less than 5 cm (2”) may evaporate quickly in hot climates and cause the biolayer to dry out.
Filtered Water Quality

The final step in household water treatment is to remove, deactivate or kill any remaining pathogens in the
filtered water through disinfection. There are various methods that are used by households around the
world to disinfect their drinking water: chemical disinfection, solar disinfection, boiling, pasteurization,
and ultraviolet disinfection.
Chemical Disinfection
Chlorination is the most widely used method for disinfecting drinking water. Disinfecting water with
chlorine will kill bacteria and viruses, but it does not deactivate parasites like giardia, cryptosporidium and
worm eggs. Chlorine can be found in different forms:
• sodium hypochlorite (eg. household bleach)

• sodium dichloroisocyanurate (NADCC), marketed under the trade name of Aquatabs or others
• calcium lime, sometimes referred to as chlorinated lime (eg. bleaching powder)
• calcium hypochlorite, also known as high test hypochlorite (HTH) used in products such as PUR
January 2008 14
Chlorine must be added in sufficient quantities to destroy all pathogens, but not so much that taste is
adversely affected. Determining the right amount can be difficult because substances in the water will react
with the disinfectant, and the strength of the disinfectant may decline over time depending on how it is
stored. Also, it is important to know the strength of the chlorine product since they can vary from 0.5 to
70% available chlorine.
Solar Water Disinfection (SODIS)
SODIS is a simple and low-cost technology that uses solar radiation and temperature to destroy pathogenic
bacteria and viruses present in water. Its efficiency in killing protozoa depends on the water temperature
reached during solar exposure. SODIS is ideal to treat small quantities of water. Water is filled into
transparent plastic bottles and exposed to full sunlight for six hours.
Boiling
Boiling water at 100oC will kill most pathogens and many are killed at 70 degrees celsius. The
recommended boiling time is one minute at sea level, adding one minute for every additional 1000 metres
in altitude. The main disadvantages of boiling water are that is uses up fuel and it is time consuming,
making it environmentally and economically unsustainable. As well, boiling water in the home can also
contribute to poor indoor air quality and lead to respiratory health issues.
Pasteurization
Pasteurization is the process of disinfecting water by heat or radiation. Water pasteurization achieves the
same effect as boiling, but at a lower temperature of 70-75 degrees celsius over a longer period of time. A
thermometre or indicator is needed to tell when the pasteurization temperature is reached. A simple method
of pasteurizing water is to simply put blackened containers of water in a solar box cooker, an insulated box
made of wood, cardboard, plastic, or woven straw. Common solar box cookers can pasteurize water at a
rate of about 1 litre per hour.
Ultraviolet (UV) Disinfection
UV disinfection works by disabling the DNA of the microorganisms in the water. The microorganisms
soon die since they are unable to replicate. There are various manufacturers of commercial and household
UV systems. All of them require some a source of electricity (for example, battery, solar power) and some
of these systems can be expensive.
Maintenance
Over time, the pore opening between the sand grains will become clogged with sediment. As a result, the
water flow rate through the filter will slow down.
To clean the filter, the surface of the sand must be agitated to re-suspend the sediment in the standing
water. The dirty water can be removed using a small container. The process can be repeated as many times
as necessary to regain the desired flow rate. After cleaning, it will take the biolayer up to a week to re-
establish itself and return the removal efficiency to its previous level, see Figure 1.
January 2008 15
SUMMARY TABLE: CONTAMINANT REMOVAL
SUMMARY OF CONTAMINANT REMOVAL EFFICIENCY

Country Author(s) Organization(s) Year Contaminants Reported
Removal
Efficiency
Cambodia Liang, K. University of North 2007 E. coli 95%
Sobsey, MD Carolina
Turbidity 82%
Nicaragua Vanderzwaag, J. University of British 2007
Columbia E. coli 97%
Dominican Stauber, C. University of North 2006

E. coli 95-98%
Republic Elliot, M. Carolina
Viruses 80-90%
Haiti Duke, W. University of 2006
Baker, D. Victoria, BC; E. coli 98.5%
CAWST
Turbidity 85%
Ethiopia Earwater, P. Cranfield University 2006 E. coli 87.9%
Silsoe Turbidity 81.2%
Ethiopia *Samaritan’s Purse 2006 E. coli 97%
Turbidity 80%
Kenya, Kaiser, N. Samaritan’s Purse 2002
Mozambique Liang, K. Canada
Cambodia, Maertens, M.
Fecal coliform 93%
Vietnam, Snider, R.
Honduras,
Nicaragua
Nepal Lee, T. Massachusetts 2001
Institute of E. coli 83%
Technology (MIT)
Nicaragua Manz. D University of 1993 Fecal coliform
97%
Buzunis, B. Calgary (after 21 days)
Morales, C. Fecal coliform
96.4%
(after 2 months)
*This study was an internal study conducted by Samaritan’s Purse and will not be published.
Health Impact Studies

Country Organization Year Results
Dominican University of 2007 For all ages including children under 5, there was a 30-40%
Republic† North Carolina reduction in the number of cases of diarrhea
Cambodia† University of 2007 For children under 5 and adults, there was a 44% reduction in
North Carolina the number of cases of diarrhea. The greatest reduction of
diarrhea (46%) occurred in children ages 2-4.
†
These studies are preliminary findings and are expected to be published in 2008.
January 2008 16
CONSTRUCTION SAFETY
It is important to work safely and avoid the potential for injury while constructing a biosand filter. You will
be using sharp tools, lifting heavy pieces, and handling potentially dangerous materials. When properly
managed, the risks involved in these tasks can be reduced to avoid injuries. The work place should have a
first aid kit available at all times. As a minimum, it should be stocked with band aids and disinfectant
materials. Medical assistance contact numbers should be readily available.
Cement and Concrete

Cement can hurt you by contacting your skin, contacting your eyes, or being inhaled. Cement usually
contains a metal called hexavalent chromium. This metal causes allergic dermatitits (inflammation of the
skin). When you empty a bag of cement, the dust can irritate your skin. The dust reacts with sweat or damp
clothing to form a corrosive solution. Cement dust can also get in your eyes, causing redness, burns, or
blindness. Inhaling cement dust irritates your nose and throat. It can also cause choking and trouble
breathing. Cement is also hazardous when it’s wet—in mortar or concrete. If it gets inside your boots or
gloves, or soaks through your clothes, it can cause burns and skin ulcers. The burns caused by cement may
be slow. You may not feel anything until several hours later. That’s why it’s important to wash cement off
your skin right away.
What to wear:
• Wear eye protection for mixing, pouring, and other work with dry cement.
• Wear gloves.
• Wear long sleeves and full-length pants.
• Pull sleeves over gloves.
• When working with wet mortar or concrete, tuck pants inside boots.
What to do:
• Work upwind from cement dust.
• Remove rings and watches because cement dust can collect underneath and burn your skin.
• Remove any clothing contaminated by cement.
• When your skin comes in contact with cement, wash with cold running water as soon as possible. Flush
out any open sores or cuts. Get medical attention if your skin still feels like it’s burning.
• After working with cement, always wash your hands before eating, smoking, or using the toilet.
• If your eyes are exposed to cement, rinse with cold clean water for at least 15 minutes. Get medical
attention if necessary.
Chlorine
Chlorine on your skin may cause irritation unless it is rinsed off immediately and flushed with large
amounts of water. Any contaminated clothing should be removed and washed before being reused.
Chlorine that gets in your eyes may cause inflammation of your throat, nose and lungs. If your eyes are
exposed to chlorine, rinse with clean water for at least 15 minutes while lifting the upper and lower lids
occasionally. It is also advised to get medical attention.
Tools
While all of the tools used to construct the filter are small hand tools, they still have a potential to cause
injury. Safely storing and using the tools correctly is the best way to prevent injuries. Use caution with
sharp tools (saws, tin snips and knives) to prevent cuts. Sharp edges of metal sheets can also cause cuts. Be
aware of smashing and crushing injuries to hands when using hammers and wrenches.
January 2008 17
FILTER TOOL KIT
A good set of tools is needed to easily and properly construct a biosand filter. These are all hand tools and,
if maintained and handled properly, will provide many years of useful life.
The following tools are needed for constructing the sand sieves, lids, and diffusers:
Nails – 1 kg of 2.5 cm (1”) nails Hand saw
Nails – 1 kg of 5 cm (2”) nails Hammer
Sand paper Tin snips
Tape measure Utility knife
T-square Acrylic cutter knife
The following tools are needed for constructing the concrete filter:
Wire brush and scraper Rubber hammer
Sand paper 38 mm (1.5”) open/box end wrench or pipe
Hack saw with spare blades / pipe cutters wrench or large adjustable wrench
Trowel (or small piece of wood) Tool box
14 mm (9/16”)open/box end wrenches, qty 2; Shovels
[a 14mm (9/16”) socket set may also be used] Pails (12–16 litres volume), qty 4-6
Level
Supplemental items:
Coarse bristle brush Rubber gloves
2.5 cm (1”) scraper Leather gloves
Small container Duct tape
1 m (3.5’) hollow steel pipe with 5cm (2”) 1.5 m (5’) metal rod (such as rebar) or piece
diameter of wood
1 litre marked container
Optional tools:
Stapler 8 cm (3”) paint brush
Wire Wheelbarrow
Hand drill and bits 1 cm (3/8”) copper pipe bender
Flat headed screw driver Copper pipe cutter
15 cm (6”) slip joint pliers
5 cm (2”) paint brush
January 2008 18
TOOLS AND MATERIALS
Acrylic Cutter Bristle Brush Copper pipe Copper pipe Gloves -
Knife bender cutter Leather
Gloves - Rubber Hack saw and Hammer - Hammer - Hand Drill

blades Common Rubber
Hand Saw Hollow Pipe Level 1 litre measured Nails –

container 2.5-5cm (1- 2”)
Pails Paintbrushes – Pliers – slip Sand Paper Scraper – 2.5cm

5-7.5cm (2-3”) joint (1”)
Screwdriver – Shovels Small Socket – 9/16” Stapler

flat head/slot Containers
head
Tape Measure Tin snips Tool Box Trowel T-Square
January 2008 17
Utility Knife Wheelbarrow Wire Wire brush and Wrench –
scraper Adjustable
Wrench Open Hose Plastic Sheets Rags Markers/ Pencils

End Box – 1-1/2” or Tarps
and 9/16”
Chlorine Lumber Hardware Wire Screen Cement

Cloth (0.7 mm or 24
mesh)
Sand Gravel Vegetable Oil Crushed Galvanized

Rock Sheet Metal
Plastic Plexiglass Duct Tape Metal Rod

Cardboard
January 2008 18
MATERIALS LIST
The following are guidelines for the construction of one filter.
MEDIA SIEVES
QUANTITY FOR 3
DESCRIPTION
SIEVES
Lumber 2.5 cm (1”) x 10 cm (4”) x 2.4 m (8’) long 3 pieces
Wood strapping 2.5 cm (1”) x 2.5 cm (1”) x 2.4 (8’) long 3 pieces
2 x 2 hardware cloth or steel mesh with 12 mm (1/2”, 2 gauge) 8 ft2
openings. Usually comes in rolls either 61 cm (24”) or 91.5 cm (36”)
wide.
4x4 hardware cloth or steel mesh with 6 mm (1/4”, 4 gauge) openings. 4 ft2
Usually comes in rolls either 61 cm (24”) or 91.5 cm (36”) wide.
Wire mesh screen (#24 mesh) or perforated metal sheeting with hole 4 ft2
opening size of 0.7 mm (0.03”). These are high quality sieves for sand
or grain/maize. Standard widths are 91.5 cm (36”) or 122 cm (48”). See
Appendix B for more information.
LID
QUANTITY FOR ONE
DESCRIPTION
FILTER
2
Galvanized sheet metal 1.5 ft
OR 2.5 cm (1”) x 10 cm (4”) lumber 1.5 ft2
DIFFUSER PLATE
QUANTITY FOR ONE
DESCRIPTION
FILTER
2
Galvanized sheet metal 1.5 ft
OR 1 sheet plastic cardboard 1 ft2
OR 1 sheet plexiglass or stiff plastic 1 ft2
January 2008 19
FILTER MEDIA
DESCRIPTION QUANTITY FOR ONE FILTER
Sieved 0.7 mm (0.03”) sand 37.5 kg (25 L, 0.03 cubic yards, 0.88 cubic feet,
0.025 cubic metres, 4 head pans)
Sieved 6 mm (1/4”) gravel 5.25 kg (3.5 L, 0.005 cubic yards, 0.123 cubic feet,
0.0035 cubic metres, 0.5 head pans)
Sieved 12 mm (1/2”) gravel 4.5 kg (3 L, 0.003 cubic yards, 0.105 cubic feet,
0.003 cubic metres, 0.5 head pans)
*CONCRETE FILTER 1:2:1:1

DESCRIPTION QUANTITY FOR ONE FILTER
Cement (Portland, general use, 18 kg (approx. 1/3 of a 50 kg bag, 12 L, 0.015 cubic yards, 0.423
ordinary) cubic feet, 0.012 cubic metres, 2 head pans)
Sand 36 kg (24 L, 0.031 cubic yards, 0.85 cubic feet,

Sieved 6 mm (¼”) gravel 18 kg (12 L, 0.015 cubic yards, 0.423 cubic feet,
Sieved 12 mm (1/2”) gravel 18 kg (12 L, 0.015 cubic yards, 0.423 cubic feet,
Copper tubing or plastic tubing 1 m (3 ft)

with 6mm (¼”) inside diameter
Vegetable oil 250 ml
*The formula in litres for the concrete mix is intended to serve as a general guideline. The
formula may vary in the field depending on the size of the mold. The ratio 1:2:1:1 represents one
part cement by two parts sand by one part 6 mm (¼”) gravel by one part 12 mm (1/2”) gravel.
This ratio should be used even if the quantities are increased.
January 2008 20
FLOW CHART FOR BIOSAND FILTER CONSTRUCTION
Steel mold Construct sieve Obtain gravel

fabrication set and sand
Appendix A
Appendix B Appendix C
Prepare the
media
Appendix C
Prepare mold and

mix concrete
Appendix D
Construct diffuser Wash sand and

and lid gravel used for
Pour filter media filter
Appendix E
Appendix D Appendix C
Wait 18 – 24
hours
Remove filter
from mold
Appendix D
Install filter, test flow,

disinfect spout
Appendix F
January 2008 21
APPENDIX A: STEEL MOLD FABRICATION
For Concrete Biosand Filter
Filter Version 9.0 (75 kg)
Metric Units
NOTES
• The first time you have a mold made, book one week of time to work directly with the welder
or check in periodically to make sure they understand the instructions. Don’t expect to simply
drop off the drawings and come back later to pick up a finished mold.
• Explain to your welder what the mold is for and what are the most critical parts of it. If they
don’t know what it does, they won’t know what’s necessary to make it work.
• Set up a contract with your welder that states you must have a working mold which has been
tested and produces a concrete filter before you will accept it and pay in full.
• Take the time to select sheet metal and angle iron that is straight and flat.
• The 3-sided piece of the exterior mold can be bent from one piece of sheet metal instead of
welding 3 pieces together, if the welding shop has the tools to do so. Be sure to adapt the
measurements to fit the requirements of the mold.
• It may be useful to build jigs to keep the plates square while welding.
• If you are having trouble getting/keeping the interior mold boxes square, consider welding
braces across all the openings (on the inside of the box).
• All measurements are in millimetres unless otherwise stated.
• If you have questions, email us – that’s what we’re here for! [email protected]
January 2008 22
Appendix A
Overview of the Steel Mold
January 2008 23
Appendix A
Part A: Cutting the Pieces
Materials List
Quantity Description
1 sheet 3.2 mm (1/8”) thick steel plate, often available in 1220 mm x 2440 mm sheets
(or use scrap pieces)
1 6.35 mm (¼”) thick steel plate – one piece approximately 1000 mm x 280 mm
1 – one piece 387 mm x 387 mm

3210 mm 38 mm x 38 mm x 3.2 mm (1/8”) (wall thickness) angle iron
1435 mm 38 mm x 38 mm x 3.2 mm (1/8”) (wall thickness) square tubing
610 mm 16 mm (5/8”) diameter steel rod (or four 5/8” diameter bolts 152 mm long)
229 mm 25 mm (1”) diameter threaded rod (also known as all thread)
2 25 mm (1”) nuts
140 mm 13 mm (½”) diameter threaded rod
1 13 mm (½”) nut
18 10 mm (3/8”) diameter bolts – 19 mm long
18 10 mm (3/8”) nuts
Step 1: Layout and cut 3.2 mm (1/8”) steel plate
All the 3.2 mm (1/8”) thick pieces can be cut from a single sheet, as shown below. These pieces
must be cut from uniformly flat material (without any concave or convex areas).
Note: The image below does not include the width of the cut lines, which will vary depending on
the cutting apparatus used.
January 2008 24
Appendix A
Step 1: Layout and cut 3.2 mm (1/8”) steel plate – continued
Interior side pieces, top (4 pieces) OR, cut these plates from one sheet as shown,
but account for the width of the cuts
216 10
216
236
216 236
610
236 216
10
216 236
10
236
610
Bottom Inside Plate (1 Piece) Extractor support (1 Piece)
152
216
152
Drill a 29 mm diameter
hole in the center of the
plate
216
January 2008 25
Appendix A
Step 1: Layout and cut 3.2 mm (1/8”) steel plate – continued
Exterior Back and Front panels (2 pieces) Exterior Side panels (2 pieces)
305 387
Hole for nose

piece to be cut
in front panel
only - See
below for
940 940
dimensions
Side Nose Pieces (2 Pieces) Front Nose Piece (1 Piece)

229
78 254 50
111
Nose Cover Plate (1 Piece)

70 Drill a 10 mm
diameter hole
121
32 mm
140
January 2008 26
Appendix A
Step 2: Layout and cut 6.4 mm ( ¼”) steel plate
Interior side pieces, bottom (4 pieces) OR, cut these pieces from one plate as shown
below, but you must account for the width of
the cuts
242 5
242
252
242
252
264
252
242
5
252
242
252
264
Base plate (1 piece) Note: It is symmetrical.
387 mm
177
32
33 267 387
Grey dashed line
shows where interior
mold will be welded
177
on.
Mark it on the base
267
January 2008 27
Appendix A
Step 3: Cut 38 x 38 (1 ½” x 1 ½”) angle iron pieces
Total length of angle iron needed: 3213 mm
3.2
38
38
Two 940 mm long pieces

940
Two 387 mm long pieces Two 305 mm long pieces
387 305
Step 4: Drill holes on angle iron
Note: Our recommended hole locations are shown below; however, the specific positions of the
holes are not critical. The most important thing is to ensure that the holes on one piece of the
mold match up with the holes on another piece of the mold after it’s welded. If you drill the holes
on every piece separately, they won’t line up exactly and it will be difficult to insert the bolts each
time you assemble the mold.
Depending on the available tools, there are three different options:
• Drill pilot holes (less than 11 mm) on every piece (angle irons and plates) as you go, but wait
to finish drilling the holes to 11 mm until the mold is assembled
• Mark the holes now, but wait to drill all the holes until the mold is clamped together at a later
stage (must be done with a handheld tool, not a drill press)
• Drill the holes on the angle iron now but wait to drill the corresponding holes on the plates
until the mold has been assembled (the method described in this booklet)
January 2008 28
Appendix A
Step 4 - continued
Two 940 mm long pieces of angle iron, with five 11 mm diameter holes
11 mm diameter
940 mm holes
19 222 229 229 222 19
19
Two 387 mm long pieces of angle iron, with two 11 mm diameter holes
387
117 117
11 mm diameter
holes
19
Two 305 mm long pieces of angle iron, with two 11 mm diameter holes
305
11 mm diameter
76 76
holes
19
January 2008 29
Appendix A
Step 5: Cut 38 x 38 (1 ½” x 1 ½”) square tubing pieces
Total square tubing needed: 1435 mm
38
3.2
38
One (1) 387 mm long piece Two (2) 175 mm long pieces
387 175
Five (5) 89 mm long pieces Four (4) 57 mm long pieces

57
89
Step 6: Mark and drill holes in square tubing
One (1) 387 mm long piece of square tubing, with 29 mm holes through two opposite sides
387 mm
29 mm Note: These
diameter hole holes do not
need to match
19 up with other
parts of the mold
(as in Step 4),
194 and can be
drilled now.
January 2008 30
Appendix A
Step 6: Mark and drill holes in square tubing – continued
One (1) 89 mm long piece of square tubing, with two (2) - 13 mm holes through two opposite
sides
89
19
44
Step 7: Cut 16 mm (5/8”) diameter steel rods
Cut four (4) 152 mm rods as shown below:
16 mm
152 mm
Part B: Welding
Step 8: Interior mold box
1. Stand the 4 ‘top interior side pieces’ with the narrow ends up.
Use the bottom inside plate to

ensure that the 4 top interior side
pieces are square.
Fit the plates corner to corner

with no gap.
January 2008 31
Appendix A
Step 8: Interior mold box - continued
2. Tack weld the top interior side plates together.

3. Check that the box is still square. If not, fix it.
4. Tack all 4 sides of the bottom inside plate to the top interior side plates.
5. Weld the complete lengths joining the 4 top interior side plates, in the order shown:
3 1
2 4

7. Weld the edges of the top plate to the edges of the four side plates all the way around.
8. Stand the 4 ‘bottom interior side pieces’ with the narrow ends up.
Note: The following is the most important part of welding the mold. This part of the
interior mold box must be square so that the thickness of all the concrete filter walls
will be consistent. Take the time to make sure that these pieces are welded together
squarely and attached squarely to the rest of the interior mold.
Fit plates corner to

corner with no gap
Weld on outside, same as was

done as for the top interior side
pieces
9. Tack the bottom interior side plates together.

January 2008 32
Appendix A
Step 8: Interior mold box - continued
11. Weld the complete lengths joining the 4 bottom interior side plates, in the order shown in
instruction 5 (above).
13. Place the top interior box (built in instructions 1-8) inside of the bottom interior box
(instructions 9-12) as shown below.
Bottom interior box
Top interior box
Reach in and tack

weld the two plates
together
Use a piece of wood or steel that is 6.3 mm

thick (roughly the same as the bottom
interior side pieces) to position the two plates
corner to corner with no gap for welding
Weld here
(Inside)
14. Tack weld all 4 sides of the top interior box to the bottom interior box on the inside.
15. Finish weld the boxes together, all the way around on the inside.
Note: This weld must be made on the inside of the box to ensure that a sharp lip is left
on the outside of the box. That lip will form a ledge in the concrete to support the
diffuser plate.
January 2008 33
Appendix A
Step 9: Interior mold base
Weld four pieces of 89 mm square tubing and one 25 mm NC Nut onto the base plate, as shown
below. (Leave the 89 mm square tubing with a hole through it for Step 10.)
Weld the 25 mm NC
Nut to center of plate
Weld the nut and

tubing on the
opposite side from
the grey dashed
line that you
marked in Step 2
Weld four 89 mm
pieces of square
tubing, one on each
corner of the plate
Do not drill the holes in the plate at this time. They are drilled once the exterior box has been
constructed. See Step 12.
January 2008 34
Appendix A
Step 10: Exterior mold - front panel
Take one of the two 305 mm angle irons. Leave the other 305 mm angle iron for Step 11. Cut 38
mm off each end of the angle iron, but only on the side that has no holes, as shown below. Weld a
57 mm square tubing onto the centre of the angle iron.
Cut a hole in one of the 305 mm x

940 mm exterior panels as shown Then, weld angle iron onto 3 sides of the
below: panel as shown below.
305 mm 305
Weld a 940 long angle

Note: The joints iron onto each side of
between the the plate as shown.
nose pieces and
the front panel
do not form
right angles.
89 127 89 38
225
44
Weld the 305 angle iron
that you cut (above) to
229 the front panel as shown
127 50 127
Weld the 13 mm nut over one of the holes on the remaining 89 mm long piece of square tubing.
This nut is for the bolt that will hold the nose cover in place.
January 2008 35
Appendix A
Step 10: Exterior mold - front panel - continued
Weld the front nose

piece to both side nose Weld the side nose pieces to the
pieces (254 mm sides), front nose piece and the front
and to the front panel panel, from the inside.
(50 mm end). All
welding should be
Weld the 89 square
done from the inside.
tubing to the front panel,
centered horizontally, 63
mm from the bottom of
the nose opening. The
63
13 mm nut should be
facing the nose.
Step 11: Exterior mold – back and side panels
Weld a 57 mm piece of square tubing onto the center of one of the 387 mm angle irons.
Weld that angle iron to one of the 387 x 940 mm exterior side panels as shown below.
387
Weld angle iron across the

387 mm end of the panel
Repeat the entire process for the other 387 mm angle iron and
the other 387 x 940 mm exterior side panel.
January 2008 36
Appendix A
Step 11: Exterior mold – back and side panels – continued
Weld a 57 mm piece of square tubing onto

the center of the remaining 305 mm angle iron.
Weld that angle iron to the remaining 305 x 940 mm

exterior panel as shown below.
305
Weld angle iron across the 305

end of the panel
Stand the exterior back and side panels as shown below.
Place the exterior back panel 38 mm from the edge of the exterior side panels. Make sure the
panels are square – at 90° angles to each other.
January 2008 37
Appendix A
Step 11: Exterior mold – back and side panels – continued

38
Tack weld the panels

together and then check
for squareness. Once they
are square, stitch weld the
panels together from the
outside.
Note: It is not necessary to weld

the entire length of the joints.
A stitch weld which runs the

length of the joint and has 25 mm
welds spaced 150 mm apart
(centre-to-centre) is sufficient.
Step 12: Mold Completion
Place the exterior mold panels on top of the base plate as shown below. Clamp all the components
together so that they will not move. Complete the drilling of the bolt holes – wherever there is a
hole in the angle iron, drill through the corresponding plate.
January 2008 38
Appendix A
Step 12: Mold Completion - continued
1. Bolt the 3-sided exterior panel to the

base plate.
2. Place interior mold box on top of

base plate.
3. Raise front panel one set of holes

and bolt to side panels.
4. Make sure that the interior mold box

is centred – equally distant from
each side of the exterior mold.
5. Reach in and tack weld the interior

mold box in place.
6. Unbolt and remove all of the

exterior mold panels.
7. Weld the interior mold box to the

base plate all the way around.
8. On a non-working surface, mark the

interior mold to indicate which side
is front.
The wall thickness at the top of the filter should be approximately 2.5 cm (1”).
If it is less than 2 cm (0.8”) the filter is prone to cracking around the nose.
January 2008 39
Appendix A
Step 13: Extractor
Take one 387 mm square tubing and two 175 mm long pieces of square tubing.
Weld the two 175 mm square

175 tubing pieces onto the side of
the 387 mm square tubing, as
shown.
175 175
Lining up the holes, weld the extractor support piece onto the square tubing. Weld the 152 mm x
16 mm diameter steel rods onto the opposite side.
Weld the 152 mm x 16 mm

diameter steel rods onto the
square tubing, as shown.
These rods must line up with the square notches

on each side of the base plate.
Test to make sure they line up before you weld.
January 2008 40
Appendix A
Step 13: Extractor - continued
Weld a scrap piece of rod approximately 50 mm long to the end of the 25 mm diameter threaded
rod to form the extractor bolt.
Weld a scrap piece of rod approximately 63 mm long to the end of the 13 mm diameter threaded
rod to form the bolt which holds the nose cover in place.
Step 14: Finishing
• Welds on any surface that contacts concrete must be ground down to a smooth finish.
• The dark “mill scale” on the surface of sheet metal is the smoothest finish, so it can be left on
surfaces that contact concrete unless there is weld material to be ground off.
• DO NOT PAINT THE MOLD (especially those surfaces that will contact concrete) it will
cause problems in removing the hardened filter from the mold.
• The pieces of the mold will be custom-fit to match each other, so mark each piece of the mold
with an identifying mark (e.g. grind a notch into a non-working surface of each piece) to
distinguish it from other molds.
• The mold should be oiled for storage so that it doesn’t rust, and stored indoors.
January 2008 41
APPENDIX B: SIEVE SET CONSTRUCTION
BUILD A SIEVE
Estimated Time: 30 minutes per sieve
Tools Needed:
1. Hammer 6. 2.5 cm x 2.5 cm (1” x 1”) wood strapping

2. Nails 7. 2.5 cm x 10 cm (1” x 4”) timber
3. Saw 8. 12 mm (½”, 2 gauge) wire screen
4. Tape measure 9. 6 mm (¼”, 4 gauge) wire screen
5. 1.3 cm (½”) staples (if available) 10. 0.7 mm (#24 mesh) wire screen
The gauge indicates the number of slots per inch,

so 4 gauge screen would have 4 slots per inch.
Screens must be metal, not nylon or fiberglass.
Steps:
1. Construct a square frame for the sieve.

Tip: Build the sieve to fit the screen.
• The suggested size is approximately 40 cm x 56 cm (16” x 22”). This size
is intended for use by two people.
• A smaller sieve can be constructed if only one person will be holding it.
• Other sizes may be constructed depending on the material available and
the preference of the users.
• A group in Brazil suspended their sieves from ropes
so that they don’t have to hold the weight of the
media; they only have to shake the sieve.
• The two longer sides can be made longer than 61 cm
(24”) to form handles.
• Don’t make the sieve so large that it is too heavy to
hold when filled with media, or that the weight of the
media deforms the screen.
January 2008 42
Appendix B
2. Cut a piece of screen that is larger than the frame, so that

there is 2.5 cm (1”) extra on all sides.
3. Centre the screen over the frame.
Tip: For the 0.7 mm (#24) mesh screen it is necessary to add a piece of 12 mm (½”) screen for
support. Place 0.7 mm (#24) mesh on the frame first, followed by a piece of 12 mm (½”) screen
the same size, so that when you flip the sieve over and use it, the 12 mm (½”) screen will be
underneath the 0.7 mm ( #24) mesh, supporting it.
4. Nail staples through the screen and into the frame on all 4
sides. If staples aren’t available, pound a nail in halfway, and
then bend it over and pound it into the frame.
5. Bend the excess screen back on itself so that the bent edge
lines up with the outside of the frame, and the excess
overlaps the rest of the screen. Doing so avoids sharp edges
that could cut your hands while sieving.
6. Cut the 2.5 cm x 2.5 cm (1” x 1”) wood strapping to the
same lengths as your frame to form a covering frame.
7. Nail the covering frame over top of where you’ve nailed the
screen to the frame.
8. Repeat the process until you have three sieves, each with a
different screen size: 12 mm (½”), 6 mm (¼”) and 0.7 mm
(#24).
IMPORTANT:
• A well-built sieve will last for a long time so it is worth taking the time to build it well and
make it comfortable to use.
• Never use a sieve that has ANY holes in the screen or where the screen is separating from
the frame.
• When the screen wears out, simply remove the wood strapping, pull off the old screen and
attach a new piece of screen to the existing frame.
January 2008 43
APPENDIX C: MEDIA PREPARATION
The selection and preparation of the sand and gravel is important to the effectiveness and
efficiency of the biosand filter. While not complicated, the steps in preparing the media must be
followed exactly as presented. Poor selection and preparation of the media could lead to poor
performance and a considerable amount of rework to rectify the problem.
Locating a source of media:

Source Reason
• Crushed rock is the best type of media. • This sand has less uniform sizing of the
Gravel pits or quarries are the best place grains. A mixture of grain sizes is
to obtain sand, and are common in most required for the proper functioning of the
parts of the world. filter.
• Freshly crushed rock has less chance of
becoming contaminated with pathogens
or organic material.
• If crushed rock is absolutely not • River sand is often contaminated with
available, the next choice is sand from bacteria and organic material.
high on the banks of a river (that has not
been in the water), and the last choice
would be sand in the riverbed itself.
• Beach sand should not be used. • Beach sand usually contains salt, organic
material and other contaminants that will
dissolve into the filtered water. It is very
difficult to remove this from the beach
sand.
Properties to look for when selecting the media:

Should: Should NOT:
• When you pick up a handful of the • It should not contain any organic material
sand, you should be able to feel the (e.g. leaves, grass, sticks, loam, dirt).
coarseness of the grains.
• It should not contain possible
• You should be able to clearly see the microbiological contamination. Avoid
individual grains, and the grains areas that have been used frequently by
should be of different sizes and shapes. people or animals.
• When you squeeze a handful of dry • It should not be very fine sand or sand
sand, and then you open your hand, the that is mostly silt and clay.
sand should all pour smoothly out of
• When you squeeze a handful of dry sand,
your hand.
it should not ball up in your hand or stick
• Sand and any gravel up to 12 mm (½”) to your hand. If it does, it probably
in diameter should be used. Using contains a lot of dirt or clay.
gravel larger than 12 mm (½”) will
result in a lot of waste.
January 2008 44
Appendix C
SIEVE THE MEDIA
Estimated Time: 50 minutes
Tools Needed:
1. 12mm (½") screen 4. Shovels

2. 6mm (¼”) screen 5. Tarps or plastic sheets
3. 0.7 mm (0.03”) screen 6. Wheelbarrow (if available)
Sieving is a lot easier if the media is dry. If necessary,

leave the media to dry in the sun beforehand. Then store
it under tarps to keep it dry.
Steps:
• The raw media must be passed through the 12 mm
(½”) screen, the 6 mm (¼”) screen, and the 0.7 mm
(0.03”) screen in series.
Stray rocks in the sand will

reduce the effectiveness of the
filter.
If unsieved media is spilled onto
a pile of sieved material
(e.g. someone is shoveling it
onto the screen), the pile must
be re-sieved.
• While screening, ensure that you keep your piles tidy
and separate.
Discard the material that does not pass through the 12 mm (½”)
screen.
• Store the material that is captured by the 6
mm (¼”) screen – this is your 12 mm (½”)
gravel (under drain layer).
• Store the material that is captured by the fine
screen – this is your 6 mm (¼”) gravel
(separating layer).
• The material that passes through the 0.7 mm
(0.03”) screen is your sand (filter media).
• Store the sieved media in tidy piles so that
they do not get spoiled by mixing with each
other or with unsieved media.
• Cover the sieved media with a tarp until you
are ready to use it.
January 2008 45
Appendix C
WASH THE MEDIA

Tools Needed:
1. Buckets
2. Clean water (not biologically contaminated, if possible)
3. 2 glass jars
Steps:
1. Place a small amount of 12 mm (½”) gravel in a bucket (approximately 8 cm (3”) deep).
2. Put twice as much water in the bucket.
3. Using your hand, swirl the gravel around until the water becomes quite dirty.
4. Pour the dirty water out of the bucket.
5. Repeat the process until the water in your bucket stays clean.
6. Clean the rest of the 12 mm (½”) gravel, using the same method (a little at a time).
7. Repeat steps 1 through 6 for the 6 mm (¼”) gravel.
8. Put an even smaller amount of 0.7 mm (0.03”) sand in the bucket (approximately 5 cm
(2”) deep).
9. Put double the amount of water in the bucket.
10. Using your hand, swirl the sand around the bucket 10 times very quickly, making sure
your fingers touch the bottom of the bucket and get all of the sand moving.
11. Quickly decant the dirty water.
12. Repeat steps 9 to 11 as many times as determined in the flow rate testing section – see
below.
January 2008 46
Appendix C
Tip: Do not wash the sand until the water in your bucket runs clean. This residual water
should still be somewhat dirty. It takes time and practice to be able to know how much to
wash the sand.
13. Clean the rest of the sand using the same method (steps 8 through 12).
14. Place all of the media on a tarp or concrete surface in the sun to dry. This step is
especially important if the media or the wash water might be biologically contaminated.
15. Store the media under tarps once it is dry.
FLOW RATE - TEST THE SAND

• Wash the sand as described in steps 8 to 11 above.
• As you wash, count the number of times that you decant your bucket.
• The first time you wash the sand, it is necessary to experiment with the washing
procedure in order to determine the proper number of washes.
• To ESTIMATE if the sand has been washed adequately, put some sand in a glass jar
with an equal amount of clear water. Put the lid on and swirl it. Looking from the side of
the jar, 3-4 seconds after you stop swirling, you should be able to see the surface of the
sand.
Not washed enough About right Washed too much
January 2008 47
Appendix C
• For the final test of the sand, install a biosand filter on site using your media, and test the
flow rate. It should be 0.6 L/minute or less.
• If the flow rate is greater than 0.6 L/minute, the sand has been washed too much. You
must decrease the number of times that you wash the sand. A flow rate that is too fast is
not acceptable – the filter will not be effective.
• If the flow rate is less than 0.6 L/minute, the sand hasn’t been washed enough. You must
increase the number of times that you wash the sand. The filter will still function if the
flow rate is too slow, but it may clog more often, requiring more frequent maintenance. If
the flow rate is just slightly less than 0.6 L/minute, it can be left as is – as long as the flow
rate isn’t so slow that it is inconvenient for the user.
• Initially, it is a trial and error process – but that is why its important to count how many
times you wash the sand, so that once you get the correct flow rate, you can repeat the
same process.
• The media will vary so the number of times that you wash the sand will have to be
adjusted periodically, but after some time you should develop the ability to know when
the sand has been adequately washed, just by looking at the wash water in your bucket.
January 2008 48
APPENDIX D: CONCRETE FILTER CONSTRUCTION
Option A – Plastic Tubing
MAKE PLASTIC OUTLET PIPE
Tools Needed:
1. 6 mm (¼”) I.D. plastic tubing – 3. Heat source – propane or kerosene torch,

polyethylene or vinyl (clear plastic tubing) wood fire, electric burner
2. Utility knife
Steps:
1. If the plastic tubing comes in a roll, straighten out the first section using a mild heat source as
shown below.
2. Measure and cut off 86 cm (34”) length of plastic tubing.
3. Using a heat source, shape the tubing to approximate the dimensions shown above. A
wooden jig may be useful. Since the plastic is flexible, the dimensions are less critical than
for the copper tubing.
The vinyl is usually softer and does not

need to be heated (see above photo).
January 2008 49
Appendix D
Option B – Copper Tubing
MAKE COPPER OUTLET PIPE

Tools Needed:
1. 6 mm (¼”) I.D. copper pipe 3. 1 roller pipe cutter or 1 hack saw

2. 1 tube bending tool
Steps:
1. If the copper pipe comes in a roll, straighten out the first section.
2. Measure and mark a 89 cm (35”) length.
3. Cut the pipe at your 89 cm (35”) mark, using a roller pipe cutter (or hacksaw).
4. Place the bending tool so that your cut end lines up with the edge of the tool, and bend a
90 degree angle in the pipe that is approximately 10 cm (4”) from the end.
5. Measure and mark 5 cm (2”) from the outside of the pipe.
Tip: if a bending tool is not available, you can construct a jig or devise an alternate
method of bending the pipe so that it doesn’t collapse at the bend.
4 4 5
6. Use the mark to line up the outside edge of the bending tool and make a second bend that
is 90 degrees.
7. Place the pipe inside the mold and measure 3 cm from the top of the pipe to the nose plate
opening.
8. Mark the opposite end of the pipe at the bottom of the inner mold.
6 7 8
January 2008 50
Appendix D
9. Line up the mark with the rounded edge of the bending tool and make a third bend that is
90 degrees.
10. Cover both ends with tape so that no concrete gets in while you’re pouring the filter.
The above diagram illustrates what the copper pipe should look like when completed.
January 2008 51
Appendix D
PREPARE THE MOLD

Tools Needed:
1. Wire brush, sandpaper, or steel wool to 5. Duct tape

clean mold
2. Vegetable oil 6. Wooden shims of various sizes
3. Brush or rag to apply vegetable oil 7. Level
4. Two 9/16” wrenches
Steps:
1. Clean the steel mold to remove any attached concrete.

Leave excess concrete on all joints as it will act as a seal.
2. Using vegetable oil, lightly grease all surfaces that will be
in contact with concrete.
3. Assemble the mold by placing the 2 exterior parts of the
mold on the interior mold. There should be a mark on the
interior mold to indicate on which side the nose panel goes.
4. Insert and loosely hand tighten all bolts, ensuring that the
upper edge of the mold is as square as possible.
5. Tighten all bolts with a wrench.
Option A – Plastic Outlet Pipe
6. Tape the plastic tubing to the interior mold as shown below.
7. Place the nose plate on the nose of the mold, with the plastic tubing sticking through the hole.
8. Tighten the set screw to hold the nose plate in place.
9. Secure the plastic tubing through the nose plate by taping it in place.
10. Use a level and wooden shims to make the mold level.
January 2008 52
Appendix D
Option B – Copper Outlet Pipe
6. Place the copper standpipe into

the mold with the 180° bend
down. That bend must come up
and out of the nose. The other
bend must sit flush on top of
the interior mold.
7. Place the nose plate on the nose
of the mold, with the copper
pipe just sticking through the
hole.
8. Tighten the set screw to hold
the nose plate in place.
9. Check your copper standpipe to
make sure that it’s the right
length. The 180° end must
extend out of the mold for the
spout, and the end with the 90°
bend should be placed on the
top of the interior mold.
10. Secure the copper pipe on the
interior mold by taping it in
place.
11. Use a level and wooden shims
to make the mold level.
January 2008 53
Appendix D
POUR THE FILTER

Estimated Time: First attempt – 1 ½ hours, with practice – 30 minutes
Tools Needed:
1. Shovels 4. 1.5 m (5’) metal rod (such as rebar) or

piece of wood
2. Wooden shims of various sizes 5. Mallet
3. Buckets for measuring sand, gravel and 6. Trowel
cement
Steps:
1. Measure 12 litres of Portland cement, 24 litres of sieved 0.7 mm (0.03”) sand, 12 litres of
sieved 12 mm (½”) gravel, and 12 litres of sieved 6 mm (¼”) gravel.
This mixture will set in about 24 hours and allows one filter to be built a day from each
mold. If less cement is used, the setting time may increase. Different cements will also
change the set time.
2. Mix dry ingredients together thoroughly.

3. Add water gradually while mixing to make a fairly stiff mix (cookie-dough consistency).
Approximately 7 litres of water is needed, depending on the dampness of the sand and gravel.
4. Place concrete into the mold, a few shovel fulls or half a pail at a time.
January 2008 54
Appendix D
5. As each layer of cement is added to the mold, use the rebar as a tamper to ensure the concrete
completely fills the area without any voids. At the current level of the concrete, hit the outside
of the mold on all sides, including the nose, with the mallet in an upward pattern. (The
vibration allows air pockets to escape the concrete.)
6. As you fill the last of the mold, check the nose plate and standpipe to be sure that the pipe or
plastic tubing has not moved.
7. Fill around the tubing while hitting the outside with the mallet to ensure that the concrete has
completely filled the space.
8. Jab your trowel at least 10 cm (4”) into the concrete, all around the inner mold, to ensure that
the final layer mixes with the previous layer. This will also allow for the concrete to settle
down the sides more.
9. Pile a shovel full of concrete on the top and allow it to settle for 30 minutes.
10. Repeat step 9. Smooth away the excess concrete and then use a trowel to make a flat surface .
This will be the bottom of the filter.
11. Do not leave the filter in the mold for longer than 24 hours.
January 2008 55
Appendix D
REMOVE FILTER FROM MOLD

Tools Needed:
1. Two 9/16” wrenches 4. One hammer

2. One 1-1/2” wrench 5. Wooden spacers
3. One block of wood 6. Soap and scrub brush or broom
Steps:
Within 18 to 24 hours, remove the filter from the mold, as follows:

1. Loosen the set screw and remove the nose plate.
2. Turn the mold completely upside down (180°), using a tire or a sack of grain to support its
weight as you go.
3. Remove the bolts on top of the mold. Do not loosen any of the side bolts yet.
4. Hit the top of the mold with a mallet (or use a block of wood and a hammer), to loosen the
bond with the concrete.
5. Position the puller assembly on top of the mold.
Each rod of the puller should sit in the
corresponding slot on the inner mold.
6. Tighten the centre bolt (by turning the bolt
clockwise) until the bolt is well threaded into the
nut on the mold.
7. Tighten the nut (which sits above the square tubing)
by turning it clockwise. Turn the nut down until it
contacts the square tubing and then continue
turning, which pulls upward on the interior mold
until it releases.
If the mold starts to bend, stop what you’re

doing immediately.
Undo all bolts, remove the exterior panels and

break the concrete off of the interior mold.
Do not damage the mold for just one filter.
8. Continue turning the central nut until the interior mold is entirely released.
January 2008 56
Appendix D
9. Place wooden spacers between the exterior mold and the interior mold.
10. Loosen the nut on the puller assembly until the interior mold rests on the wooden spacers.
11. Remove the puller assembly.
12. Carefully remove the interior mold and place it in a safe location.
13. Remove the remaining bolts and the 3-sided panel.
14. Remove the front (nose) panel.
Tip: You may need to tip the filter back and place a wooden shim under the front edge, and
then use a hammer and small pry bars to detach the front panel.
15. Clean and oil the mold.
16. Remove the tape that covers the standpipe opening in the interior of the filter. Remove the
tape on the other end.
17. Check the two ends of the outlet pipe to ensure they are not plugged by concrete. Remove any
visible debris until you can clearly see or feel the outlet at the bottom of the filter.
18. Fill the filter with water. The flow rate should be approximately 2.5 L/ minute.
19. Determine water level within the filter once the water stops coming out of the spout.
20. If the water level is above the diffuser lip, cut the outlet pipe to be 1.5–2.5 cm (½–1”) in
length. Repeat steps 18 and 19 until water level is below the diffuser lip.
The water level in the filter is determined by the outlet pipe.

Due to a siphoning effect, the water will stop coming out of the filter when the water is at
the same level as the end of the outlet pipe.
21. Check for cracks and flaws in the filter.

22. Plug the outlet and completely fill the filter with water. Keep it full for five to seven days
while the concrete cures. Do not transport the filter any significant distance during that time.
23. Filters with water may lead to a breeding ground for insect vectors. To prevent a breeding
ground for insect vectors, ensure filters are covered, emptied, or tipped over.
24. Put a small amount of soap in the water that was sitting in the filter, and scrub the inside of
the filter out with a broom or scrub brush.
January 2008 57
APPENDIX E : DIFFUSER AND LID
DIFFUSER PLATE
The purpose of the diffuser plate is to prevent any disturbance of the media surface and biolayer
when water is added to the top of the filter. It is essential to the correct operation of the filter.
There are several types of diffusers that can be built – each with its own advantages and
limitations. The one that you choose to build will depend on your skill level, the tools and
materials that are available, and the preference of the user.
Required features of all diffusers:

• 3 mm (1/8”) diameter holes in a 2.5 cm x 2.5 cm (1” x 1”) grid pattern.
Larger holes will result in disturbance of the surface of the media. It is important that the
biolayer is protected so that pathogens do not penetrate far into the sand bed.
Smaller holes will restrict the flow through the filter, possibly causing the flow rate to drop.
• There should not be a gap between the edge of the diffuser and the concrete filter. A tight fit
will also prevent the floating of lighter material.
A gap allows water to travel along the walls of the filter, rather than being distributed evenly
through the holes of the diffuser plate.
• Many materials have been used for the diffusers – sheet metal, plastic, concrete, etc.
• Avoid using any material that will rot or cause the growth of mold or algae in the presence of
water (e.g. wood).
• The least expensive material that is suitable should be used to keep the cost of filters at a
minimum.
• The deep metal box diffuser is used for the arsenic removal adaptation of the biosand filter.
January 2008 58
Appendix E
CORRUGATED PLASTIC DIFFUSER
Tools Needed:
1. Corrugated plastic sheet (looks like 5. Ruler

cardboard, but made from plastic)
2. Measuring tape 6. Marker or pen
3. One utility knife
4. 3 mm (1/8”) diameter nail (or slightly larger)
Steps:
1. Measure the inside cavity of the concrete filter at the height of the ledge where the diffuser
will sit. If the filter is not perfectly square, you may need to measure the width in both
directions.
2. Cut a piece of plastic the same size as the cavity.
Tip: Cutting the plastic so that it fits snugly in the filter cavity will prevent the diffuser
from floating when water is poured into the filter.
3. Measure and mark a 2.5 cm x 2.5 cm (1” x 1”) grid on the plastic.
4. At each intersection on the grid, push a nail with a 3
mm (1/8”) diameter through the plastic and then
remove it (to create the holes).
5. Add an extra row of holes around the circumference
of the diffuser. This added row helps the water be
more evenly distributed and prevents any
disturbance of the sand near the filter wall.
6. Make a handle so that the diffuser can be easily
pulled out, once in place. Handles can be made from
a piece of nylon string or wire tied through holes in
the diffuser plate, or a bent nail.
January 2008 59
Appendix E
PLASTIC PLATE DIFFUSER

Tools Needed:
1. Clear acrylic plastic plate or stiff 5. 3 mm (1/8”) diameter drill bit

polyethylene plastic
2. Measuring tape 6. Ruler
3. Electric saw or acrylic cutting knife 7. Marker or pen
4. Electric drill 8. Nylon string or bent nail
Steps:
1. Measure the inside cavity of the concrete filter
at the height of the ledge where the diffuser
will sit. If the filter is not perfectly square, you
may need to measure the width in both
directions.
2. With a saw or using an acrylic cutting knife,
cut a piece of plastic the same size as the
cavity.
3. Measure and mark a 2.5 cm x 2.5 cm (1” x 1”)
grid on the plastic.
Tip: The 12 mm (½”) sieve screen can also
be used to quickly layout a grid. Place the
sieve over the plastic sheet, and mark every
second slot.
4. At each intersection on the grid, drill a 3 mm (1/8”) diameter hole through the plastic.
5. Add an extra row of holes around the circumference of the diffuser. This added row helps the
water be more evenly distributed and prevents any disturbance of the sand near the filter
wall.
6. Make a handle so that the diffuser can be easily pulled out, once in place. Handles can be
made from a piece of nylon string or wire tied through holes in the diffuser plate, or a bent
nail.
The diffuser may float when water is poured into the filter. It is not a problem if it
floats, however a rock or other weight can be placed on the diffuser to stop it from
floating.
January 2008 60
Appendix E
SIMPLE METAL DIFFUSER

Tools Needed:
1. Measuring tape 5. 3 mm (1/8”) diameter nails

2. Tin snips 6. Marker or pen
3. Leather gloves 7. 30 gauge galvanized sheet metal (or nearest available size)
4. Hammer
Ensure that your sheet metal has good quality galvanizing or it will rust through
very quickly.
Steps:
1. Measure the inside cavity of the concrete filter at the height of the ledge where the diffuser
will sit. If the filter is not perfectly square, you may need to measure the width in both
directions.
2. Cut a piece of sheet metal that is 10 cm (4”) wider than the cavity (in both directions).
3. Measure and mark a line 5 cm (2”) from the edge of each side.
4. Measure and mark a 2.5 cm x 2.5 cm (1” x 1”) grid on the sheet metal, inside the square
which is formed by the lines from Step 3.
5. At each intersection on the grid, pound a 3 mm (1/8”) diameter hole through the sheet metal,
using a hammer and a 3 mm (1/8”) diameter nail.
water be more evenly distributed and prevents any disturbance of the sand near the filter wall.
Tip: Eventually, a jig can be constructed out of wood with nail tips in a 2.5 cm x 2.5 cm
(1” x 1”) grid, facing up out of the wood, so that the sheet metal can be pounded onto the
jig, forming all of the holes in one step.
7. Cut the corners where needed and bend the edges up along the lines drawn in Step 3. You
should be left with a box that is 5 cm (2”) deep and that is the size of the filter cavity.
January 2008 61
Appendix E
DEEP METAL BOX DIFFUSER
This type of diffuser is needed for the arsenic version of the filter.
Tools Needed:
1. Measuring tape 5. 3 mm (1/8”) diameter nails

2. Tin snips 6. Marker or pen
3. Leather gloves 7. 30 gauge galvanized sheet metal (or nearest available size)
4. Hammer
Ensure that your sheet metal has good quality

galvanizing or it will rust through very quickly.
Steps:
1. Measure the inside cavity of the concrete filter at the

height of the ledge where the diffuser will sit. If the filter
is not perfectly square, you may need to measure the
width in both directions.
2. Cut a piece of sheet metal that is 40 cm (16”) wider and
40 m (16”) longer than the cavity.
3. Measure and mark a line 20 cm (8”) from the edge of
each side.
4. Measure and mark a 2.5 cm x 2.5 cm (1” x 1”) grid on
the sheet metal, inside the square which is formed by the
lines from Step 3.
5. At each intersection on the grid, pound a 3 mm (1/8”)
diameter hole through the sheet metal, using a hammer
and a 3 mm (1/8”) diameter nail.
January 2008 62
Appendix E
water be more evenly distributed and prevents any disturbance of the sand near the filter
wall.
Tip: Eventually, a jig can be constructed out of wood with nail tips in a 2.5 cm x 2.5 cm
(1” x 1”) grid, facing up out of the wood, so that the sheet metal can be pounded onto the
jig, forming all of the holes in one step.
7. Cut the excess material from the corners where needed and bend the sides of the box up.
Leave enough excess material so that there is at least 2.5 cm (1”) overlap at the corners.
8. Fold and crimp together the corners. Rivets or sheet metal screws could also be used.
9. Bend the outside edge of the box so that there are no sharp edges exposed.
10. Use the scrap pieces of metal to make two handles inside the box so that the box can be
easily lifted up.
January 2008 63
Appendix E
LID
The purpose of the lid is to prevent contamination of the water and the media. It is essential to the
correct operation of the filter. There are several types of lids that can be built. The one that you
choose to build will depend on your skill level, the tools and materials that are available, and the
preference of the user.
Several materials have been used for the lids, including wood (pieces of timber), solid-wood
carvings, plastic, sheet metal, and concrete. Since the lid shows at all times and will be inside the
user’s home, the appearance of the lid should be taken into consideration.
Required features of all lids:

• Should completely cover the opening of the filter.
• Made so that the lid cannot be easily knocked off the
filter.
• Easy to remove and replace.
SIMPLE WOODEN LID Nails straight through the lid into the handle don’t hold
the handle on very well.
Use at least two nails at different angles or a screw.
Tools Needed:
1. 2.5 cm x 10 cm (1” x 4”) lumber (or whatever is 4. Hammer

locally available)
2. Measuring tape 5. Nails or screws
3. Saw
Steps:
1. Measure the outside width of the concrete filter at the top. If the filter is not perfectly
square, you may need to measure the width in both directions.
2. Cut pieces of wood sufficient to cover the entire top of the filter. These pieces will form the
lid itself.
3. Place these pieces in the shape of the lid, with the underside facing up.
January 2008 64
Appendix E
4. Measure the opening of the concrete filter at the very top (inside width). If the filter is not
perfectly square, you may need to measure the width in both directions.
5. Mark the size and position of the opening on the pieces of your lid (from Step 3).
6. Cut two pieces of wood the length of the opening of the filter.
7. Place those two pieces of wood perpendicular to the other pieces, on top of the others.
8. Centre those two pieces of wood so that in both directions, they line up with the opening of
the filter that you marked in Step 5. (Those two pieces will sit inside the opening on the
filter and will stop the lid from moving in either direction.)
9. Nail each of the two pieces onto all of the other pieces.
10. Flip your lid over and ensure that it fits on the filter. (The two pieces from Step 6 should
just fit inside the filter, and the other pieces should cover the entire top edge of the filter.)
11. Attach a handle.
.
January 2008 65
APPENDIX F: INSTALLATION, OPERATION, AND MAINTENEANCE
For a biosand filter to operate properly, it must be installed and commissioned correctly. Make a
checklist and use it to ensure that you have everything you’ll need before you head out to install a
filter. A filter maintenance guide (such as a laminated sheet, sticker or pamphlet) should be left
with each new user.
TRANSPORTING THE FILTER

Always consider the safety issues related to moving the
filter. There can be injuries due to strains of the back, arms,
and knees. Watch out for crushing or pinching of fingers and
toes under or behind the filter. Keep in mind the size of the
filter 30 cm x 30 cm x 90 cm (12” x 12” x 36”) and its
weight [77 kgs (170 lbs) - plus an additional 45 kgs (100 lbs)
of media]. It can be difficult and awkward to move this large
object.
Some ways to move the filter include:
• Cart – animal or human powered
• Car, truck, or boat
• Carrying slings – wide, heavy canvas straps placed over
the shoulder to lift a heavy object
• Dolly – a frame or rack with small wheels, strong
enough to carry the weight
• Rollers – metal or wooden, round pieces that can be used
to move the filter short distances.
POSITIONING THE FILTER

It is important to determine a good location for the filter. Locating the filter inside the home is
important not only for filter effectiveness, but also for the convenience of the user. If the users can
access the filter easily, they will be more likely to use and maintain it. Once filled with media, the
filter should not be moved.
The filter should be placed:
• In a protected location away from sunlight, wind, rain, animals, and children.
• Preferably inside the home on level ground.
• Near the food preparation or kitchen area (depending on the space and layout of the house).
• Where it will be used and maintained easily.
• So that water can easily be poured in the top.
Tip: You may have to add a step if the users are short, so that they don’t have to lift the
bucket of unfiltered water above shoulder height.
• Where there’s adequate room for hauling and pouring pails of water into the filter, and storing
the filtered water.
January 2008 66
Appendix F
PLACE THE MEDIA

Tools Needed:
1. Approximately 3 litres of washed 12 mm 4. A stick [approximately 100 cm (40”)
(½”) gravel (underdrain layer) long, 2.5 cm x 5 cm (1” x 2”) is
preferred]
2. Approximately 3¼ litres of washed 6 mm 5. Measuring tape

(¼”) gravel (separating layer)
3. Approximately 25 litres of washed 0.7 mm 6. At least 2 buckets of water

(0.03”) sand
Steps:
1. Ensure that the drain hole (the outlet
pipe opening at the bottom inside of the
7. Add approximately 5 cm (2”) of
filter) is clear and unobstructed (i.e. is
underdrain 12 mm (½”) gravel to the
not covered by concrete and is not
filter.
plugged by any debris.) The flow rate
through the tubing without any media in 8. Level out the gravel, and use the stick
the filter should be 1 L/25 seconds (2.5 to measure how much has been added.
L/minute). Place the bottom of the stick on the
gravel. When the 2nd line on the stick
Tip: This step should have been done lines up with the top edge of the filter,
when the filter was removed from the you have added enough gravel.
mold, however, double check now
before you get too far into the
installation. Ensure that the gravel covers the drain hole
near the bottom of the filter.
2. Ensure that the inside of the filter has
been cleaned out (including dirt, dust,
and oil from the mold). 9. Measure and mark a line 5 cm (2”)
3. Place a stick inside the filter so that it’s down from the second line.
touching the bottom of the filter. 10. Add approximately 5 cm (2”) of
4. Draw a horizontal line on the stick separating layer 6 mm (¼”) gravel to the
where it meets the top edge of the filter. filter.
5. Measure and mark a line 5 cm (2”) 11. Level out the gravel, and use the stick to
down from the first line. measure how much has been added.
Again, place the bottom of the stick on
6. Fill the filter half full of water. the gravel. When the 3rd line on the stick
lines up with the top edge of the filter,
you have added enough gravel.
The media must always be added with water
12. Quickly pour approximately 20 litres of
already in the filter to prevent pockets of air
washed sand to the filter (ensuring that
from being trapped within the media.
there is always water above the surface
of the sand).
January 2008 67
Appendix F
A random distribution of different sand grain sizes is critical to the proper operation of the
filter.
Adding the sand quickly maintains the random distribution by not allowing the different sizes
of grains to settle into layers.
13. Fill the filter with water and let it run until water stops pouring out of the outlet pipe. When
this happens the water level is equalized.
14. Smooth out the sand and then measure the Top of sand
depth of the water above the sand bed. 5 cm (2”)
15. If the water depth is less than 3 cm (1.2”): below water
remove sand until the depth is 5 cm (2”) (with level
the sand surface level and the water level
equalized).
16. If the water depth is more than 5 cm (2”): 5 cm (2”)
repeat steps 13 to 17 until the water depth is 5 separating
cm (2”). gravel
17. Swirl the top layer of sand and dump out the
muddy water to prevent the sand from 5 cm (2”)
clogging. underdrain
gravel
18. Smooth out the surface of the sand so that it’s
as level as possible.
January 2008 68
Appendix F
FLUSH THE FILTER

Estimated Time: 1 hour
Tools Needed:
1. Diffuser
2. 40–80 litres (10–20 gallons) of water
Steps:
1. Place the diffuser plate on the ledge inside the filter. Ensure that it fits snugly.
The diffuser must not be touching the surface of the water at its resting level.
That would greatly reduce the amount of oxygen in the standing water layer, affecting
the survival of the biolayer.
2. Place a receiving container under the spout. The water that it captures can be reused.
3. Pour the cleanest available water into the filter (turbidity should be less than 50 NTU).
4. Observe the water coming out of the outlet pipe.
5. Continue adding water to the filter until the water coming out is clear. This may take 40-80
litres (10-20 gallons).
If the outlet water doesn’t run clear after 100 litres (25 gallons), then the gravel or sand
was too dirty to start with. It is probably easiest to take the media out, wash it in pails,
and then place it back in the filter.
January 2008 69
Appendix F
TEST FLOW RATE

Tools Needed:
1. Measuring container with 1 litre mark
2. Stopwatch
3. Bucket
Steps:
1. Fill the filter to the top with water.

2. Place your measuring container under the spout to collect
the outlet water.
3. Measure the time it takes to fill the container to the 1 litre mark. The
flow rate should be at a maximum of 0.6 L/minute (see table to the sec per L per
right to convert seconds per litre into litres per minutes). L min
4. If the flow rate is very slow (under approximately 0.2 L/minute, taking 60 1.00
more than 5 minutes to fill the measuring container to 1 litre): 70 0.86
• The filter will still work, but it may clog faster and more often, 80 0.75
requiring more maintenance. 90 0.67
100 0.60
• If it takes too long to get a pail of water, the user may not like the
filter and may use untreated water 105 0.57
110 0.55
• The flow rate can be improved by “swirling” the top layer of the 115 0.52
sand and then scooping out the dirty water.
120 0.50
• If a few “swirl & dumps” do not improve the flow rate
substantially, the sand is either too fine or too dirty – you will have to rewash the sand.
5. If it takes less than 100 seconds to fill the measuring
container to 1 litre, the flow rate is too fast: The flow rate through the filter
• The filter may not function effectively. decreases as the height of the water in
the reservoir drops.
• The media should be replaced with finer media
(less washed). As the water level reaches the
• A less preferable option is to run a considerable diffuser, treated water may only drip
amount of water through the filter until the flow out of the filter spout. It can take
rate decreases (due to the capture of finer 40–90 minutes for the 20 litres in the
particles and faster growth of the biolayer). reservoir to completely pass through
the filter.
January 2008 70
Appendix F
DISINFECT THE SPOUT

Tools Needed:
1. 1 m (3’) of hose that just fits over the outlet spout

2. Hose clamp (if available)
3. Funnel (can be made from the top of a soda or water bottle)
4. Chlorine solution (e.g. 1 teaspoon 5.25% bleach to 1 litre of water)
Do NOT pour This step is used when starting the filter

chlorine bleach into or during maintenance by a filter
technician. Disinfecting the spout is not
the top of the filter! normally done by household end users.
Steps:
1. Place the hose over the filter spout.

2. Clamp the hose in place with the hose clamp.
3. Place the funnel on the other end of the hose.
4. Hold the funnel higher than the top of the filter, and
pour 1 litre of chlorine solution into the funnel.
5. Hold in place for 2 minutes.
6. Remove the hose and drain the chlorine solution
7. Wipe the outside of the spout with a clean,
chlorine-soaked cloth.
8. Add 20 litres (5 gallons) of water to the top of the
filter and wait 30 minutes to flush the chlorine out.
Instruct the user not to use this water for drinking or
cooking.
9. Place the lid on the filter.
January 2008 71
Appendix F
ARSENIC REMOVAL
The biosand filter can be easily modified to help remove arsenic from water. If water testing
results show unsafe levels of arsenic in the water, then follow the instructions to create a biosand
filter that will also remove arsenic.
Materials Needed:
1. 5 kg (11 lb) of non-galvanized iron nails. Small nails are desirable because they give the
highest surface area. Ideally, the nails should be less than 20 mm (0.8”) long, but the nails
should not be so small that they fall through the holes in the diffuser box. The nails must
also be non-galvanized (i.e. iron must rust rapidly) for the arsenic to be effectively
removed. Avoid nails that are oily or have visible contamination.
2. Broken pieces of brick or stone of about 5-10 cm (2-4”) diameter. Any type of brick is
fine. Bricks should be clean.
Steps:
1. Wash the iron nails to get rid of dust, dirt, stones, oils, and other foreign materials.
2. Wash the brick chips to get rid of dust, dirt, clay powder, and other foreign materials.
3. Place the 5 kg (11 lb) of iron nails in the deep metal box diffuser. It is important that the iron
nails is evenly and flatly distributed and cover the entire box bottom.
4. Put one layer of brick chips above the iron nails to completely cover the iron nails. The
purpose of the brick chips is to protect the underlying nails from dispersing due to the force
of the incoming water.
Note #1:
Do not place a piece of cloth under the iron nails. The cloth will quickly get clogged
with iron rust and the flow rate of the filter will be dramatically reduced.
Note #2:
Depending on the nails and the source water, the 3 mm (1/8”) holes may get clogged by
iron rust. If so, make the holes bigger using a 5 mm (3/16”) or 6 mm (1/4") nail.
However, don’t make the holes so big such that the nails will fall through them.
January 2008 72
Appendix F
OPERATION
ESTABLISHING THE BIOLAYER

• The biolayer is the key pathogen removing component of the filter.
• Without it, the filter removes some contamination through screening of the particles and
pathogens (only 30-70% removal efficiency).
• A good biolayer will remove 90-99% of the pathogens.
• It may take up to 30 days to establish the biolayer.
• The water from the filter can be used during the first few weeks while the biolayer is
being established if a safer water source is not available, but disinfection, as always, is
recommended during this time.
• The biolayer is NOT usually visible – it is not a green slimy coating on top of the sand.
DAILY USE
All household users, including children, need to be taught how and why the filter works and about
its correct operation and maintenance. Children are frequently the main users of the filter.
• Use the filter every day to, at least 20 litres, twice per day.
• Use the same source of water every day to improve the filter effectiveness.
• Use the best source of water (least contaminated) that is available – the better the source
water, the better the treated water will be.
• The turbidity of the source water should be less than 50 NTU. If it is more turbid, then
sediment or strain the water before using the biosand filter.
• The diffuser plate must always be in place when pouring water into the filter – never pour
water directly onto the sand layer. Slowly pour the water into the filter.
• The lid should always be kept on the filter.
• Use a dedicated bucket for fetching the source water.
• Use a dedicated safe storage container to hold the filtered water which has:
a small opening to prevent recontamination due to dipping with cups or hands
a tap or spigot.
• Place the receiving container as close to the spout as possible (i.e. place it on a block) to
reduce dripping noise and prevent recontamination.
The dripping noise can be irritating. The closer you place the container to the spout, the
less noise there is. A container with a small opening also reduces dripping noise.
January 2008 73
Appendix F
• Water must always be allowed to flow freely from the filter – never plug the spout or
connect a hose to it.
Plugging the spout could increase the water level in the filter, which could kill the
biolayer due to lack of oxygen. Putting a hose or other device on the spout can siphon or
drain the water in the filter, dropping the water level below the sand layer.
• Do not store food inside the filter.
Some users want to store their food on the diffuser plate because it is a cool location.
The water in the top of the filter is contaminated, so it will contaminate the food. Also, the
food attracts insects to the filter.
• The treated water should be disinfected after it passes through the filter to ensure the
highest quality of water and to prevent recontamination.
CLEAN AND TIGHTLY FITTING LID

NO FOOD ON
DIFFUSER PLATE
NO CHLORINE INSIDE
SPOUT
- CLEAN FREQUENTLY
- NO ATTACHMENTS
TOP OF SAND IS 5 CM BELOW WATER
6
6
NO CRACKS OR LEAKS
CLEAN CONTAINER
SMALL OPENING
PLACED LEVEL INSIDE HOUSE
January 2008 74
Appendix F
MAINTENANCE
There is some key maintenance that is required after a filter has been installed and used regularly.
DISINFECTION
The outlet spout will become contaminated during normal use via dirty hands, animals, or insects.
Steps:
• Clean the filter outlet spout regularly with soap and water or a chlorine solution.
• Clean the inside of the treated water storage container when it looks dirty, when you do
regular maintenance or at least once a month. Do NOT pour chlorine bleach into the top
of the filter! To clean the storage container:
o Wash your hands before cleaning the container
o Scrub the inside of the container with soap and treated water
o Empty the soapy water through the tap
o Rinse the container with a little treated water
o Add chlorine to water in the storage container – let it sit for 30 minutes – if chlorine
is not available, let the container air dry
o Empty the remaining water through the tap
o Clean the tap with a clean cloth and chlorine solution (such as bleach)
• The entire filter should be cleaned regularly (lid, diffuser, outside surfaces).
SWIRL & DUMP

The flow rate through the filter will slow down over time as the biolayer develops and sediment is
trapped in the upper layer of the sand. Users will know when the “swirl & dump” is required
because the flow rate will drop to an unacceptable level. The filter is still effectively treating the
water at this point; however the length of time that it takes to get a bucket of water may become
too long and be inconvenient for the user. Alternately, you can measure the flow rate and if it is
less than 0.1 L/minute, “swirl & dump” maintenance is required.
Steps:
1. Remove the lid of the filter.
2. Add 4 litres (1 gallon) of water to the top of the filter.
3. Remove the diffuser.
4. “Swirl” a small wooden stick or spoon around in the standing water at least 5 times – the
water will become dirty. Work the stick into the sand layer about 2 cm (0.8”) while “swirling”
around across the entire surface area of the sand, but do not mix the surface layer any deeper
than 5 cm (2”) into the filter.
5. Scoop out the dirty water with a small container (i.e. a cup or a pop bottle cut in half).
6. Dump the dirty water outside the house in an appropriate location, such as a soak pit or
garden (remember it is contaminated water).
7. Smooth and level the sand surface.
8. Replace the diffuser.
9. Pour 20 litres (5 gallons) of water into the top of the filter.
January 2008 75
Appendix F
10. Measure the flow rate.

11. If the flow rate is less than 0.6 L/minute, repeat steps 1 through 10 until the flow rate is
acceptable.
12. Wash your hands with soap and clean water - you have been handling contaminated water.
FOLLOW UP VISITS
Follow-up visits with the household users should be done to ensure proper use and maintenance
of the filters. The first follow up visit should be during the first two weeks of use and then every
1-2 months thereafter. During follow up visits, ensure that the filter is being operated and
maintained as described above. The following general checks can be made at any time by the
users, Community Health Worker, or Filter Technician that is active in the area:
• Check that the filter is in an appropriate location (indoors, protected from the weather,
animals, and insects) and is level.
• Look for drips of water or wet spots under the filter, which indicate a leak in the concrete
box.
• Check that the lid is tight fitting and clean on the inside and outside.
• Make sure the diffuser is clean and it is sitting properly on the concrete lip.
• Make sure the holes in the diffuser are not plugged – periodic cleaning may be needed.
• Check that the surface of the sand is smooth and level (use a small straight object to
smooth the sand ONLY if necessary).
• Make sure the surface of the sand is 5 cm (2”) below the water level.
The sand may settle over time and more will have to be added. Add (or remove) sand if
the standing water depth is not 5 cm (2”).
This is not usually a task that will be done by the household user. The sand must be the
correct size and clean. Sand should be provided by the Filter Technician or
Community Health Promoter.
January 2008 76
APPENDIX G: FILTER CONSTRUCTION CHECKLIST
Cut and bend the outlet pipe tubing to size; Wait 18-24 hours, no longer (weather
then cover the end with tape. dependant)
Clean, oil, and then assemble the mold. Do Remove the nose plate.
not oil the top of the inner mold and do not Turn the mold upside down, using a tire or a
oil connecting pieces. sack of grain to support the mold.
Insert and hand tighten all bolts; then tighten Remove the bolts on top of the mold. Do not
all bolts with a wrench. loosen any of the side bolts yet.
Place the tubing in the mold. Ensure the Hit the top of the mold with a mallet to
tubing is placed down the middle of the wall. loosen the bond with the concrete.
Position the nose plate with the tubing
Place the puller assembly on top of the mold,
sticking through, tighten the set screw and
lubricate, and clean threads.
plug the standpipe outlet.
Tighten the centre bolt (by turning it
Tape the tubing onto the interior mold to
clockwise) until it is well threaded into the
hold it in place.
nut on the mold.
Use a level and wooden shims to make the
Tighten the nut above the puller by turning it
mold level.
clockwise until the interior mold releases.
Measure and mix 12 L of Portland cement,
Carefully remove the interior mold and store
24 L of sieved sand, 12 L of sieved 12mm
it safely.
(½”) gravel, and 12 L of 6 mm (¼”) gravel,
adding water gradually while mixing to make Remove the remaining bolts and the 3-sided
a fairly stiff mix (about 7 litres of water). panel; then remove the front (nose) panel.
Quantities may vary depending on the exact Clean and oil the mold.
size of the mold and the moisture content of Remove excess tape that covers the tubing
the sand. Generally a ratio of 1:2:1:1 is opening in the interior of the filter.
recommended. Check both ends of the tubing to ensure they
Shovel concrete into the mold, a few shovel- have not been plugged by concrete.
fulls at a time. Depending on the mold, if the tubing extends
Use a long metal rod (such as rebar) as a more than 1.2 cm (½”) out of the concrete
tamper and hit the outside of the mold with nose, cut it to less than 1.2 cm (½”) in length.
the mallet in an upward pattern. Fill the filter with water. The flow rate
As you fill the last of the mold, check the should be about 2.5 L/minute. Check for
tubing to be sure it has not moved. cracks in the filter.
Fill the filter with excess concrete and allow Plug the tube.
the concrete to slump for 30 minutes. Fill the filter with water for 5-7 days while it
Jab your trowel 10 cm (4”) into the concrete, cures. Do not transport the filter during that
all around the inner mold, to ensure the last time.
bit of concrete mixes (mallet briefly). Before installation, scrub the inside of the
Smooth away the excess concrete, leaving filter out with a broom or scrub brush, soap
1.2 cm (½”) over the wall and bevel edge, and water.
with a flat board and then trowel it, to leave a Fill out the filter production record (see
flat surface. Appendix J).
January 2008 77
APPENDIX H: QUALITY CONTROL CHECKLIST
A) FILTER BODY (While the filter is being built)
Good quality cement has been used (not Inside of mold is clean with no cement
been exposed to moisture). or oily residue except for where the seal
and joints are located.
Clean, good quality sand and gravel is
used in concrete. Filter is protected during transportation
and final placement.
Plastic or copper 6 mm (¼”) I.D. tubing
is used. Water flows out spout before sand is
added at approximately 2.5 L/minute.
Mold is straight, square, smooth, and
well oiled to ensure the filter comes out Water level is below diffuser lip a
easily. minimum of 10 mm (1/2”).
Concrete is cured by keeping damp for Outside surface of the filter looks
5-7 days. attractive and clean (washed and painted
if desired).
B) MEDIA PREPARATION
Sieves have good quality screen with no Washed sand meets flow rate test.
holes or tears.
Sand is protected after sieving, washing
12 mm (½”) and 6 mm (¼”) gravel is and during transportation (covered,
properly cleaned. inside or bagged).
C) INSTALLATION
Filter is level at final installation Lid has a handle.

location.
Diffuser fits properly onto diffuser lip.
Large gravel covers tubing.
Diffuser plate material is strong enough
Water is in filter body before sand is to withstand the force of pouring water.
added. After placing the gravel ensure
The Product Manufacturer/Filter
the water flows.
Technician provides a full instruction of
Final sand level is 5 cm (2”) below the the proper operation and maintenance of
resting water level. the filter.
The ideal flow rate of the filter is 0.6 Use and maintenance poster, brochure or
L/minute, when the top reservoir is full sticker is left with the user.
of water.
Arrangement or a time is set for a
Lid fits tightly on top of filter. follow-up visit.
January 2008 78
APPENDIX I: INSTALLATION CHECKLIST
GENERAL
Confirm delivery time and place. Check filter for leaks.
Make sure filter is completely clean and ready Ensure the media is washed.
to go.
FILTER
Diffuser (with handle or bring wire for Washed sand (approximately 25 litres).
handle).
Washed underdrain gravel (approximately 3
Nails for arsenic version of filter, 5 kg (11 lb). litres).
Lid. Washed separating gravel (approximately
3¼ litres).
TRANSPORTATION
Cart. Packing material to prevent filters from
breaking (e.g. straw, newspaper, carpet, etc).
Strapping.
Plastic sheet or tarp.
INSTALLATION
Leveling shims. Funnel.
Small bucket. Disinfection solution
Hose clamp. 2 buckets of water – minimum.
Hose
TOOLS
1 litre measuring container. Knife.
Watch. Pliers.
Level. Tape measure.
Hacksaw. Marker (to mark number & date).
Gloves. Flashlight (optional).
DOCUMENTATION
“How to use and maintain your biosand filter” Installation record form.
poster, pamphlet or sticker to be left with user.
Clipboard and pen.
Receipt book.
January 2008 79
APPENDIX J: FILTER PRODUCTION RECORD
Production Demold Filter Mold Flow Technician
Comments
Date Date Number Number Rate Initials
January 2008 80
APPENDIX K: COSTING AND PRICING FORM (1)
BIOSAND FILTER COSTING AND PRICING FORM

For Internal Use Only
Price Cost of
Quantity
Description of Material per Quantity
Used
Unit Used
Travel Time to pick up materials
Direct Materials Used - Total Cost

Cost
Direct Labour Costs Hours per Subtotal
Hour
Filter Fabrication
Filter Installation
Direct Labour – Total Cost

Total Direct Costs
Overhead ( %)
Total Indirect Costs

Profit Margin ( %)
PRODUCT PRICE Before Delivery
Delivery to customer location
FINAL DELIVERED AND INSTALLED PRODUCT PRICE
January 2008 81
APPENDIX L: COSTING AND PRICING FORM (2)
Quantity Cost of
Materials Used Quantity Used Cost Per Filter
Purchased Purchases
Total cost of materials used:
Labour Costs Cost Per Filter
Total Labor Costs:
Transport Costs Cost Per Filter
Total transport costs:
Total direct costs (materials, labor, transport)

Profit Margin ( % of direct costs):
Overhead costs ( % of direct costs):
PRICE OF
FILTER:
January 2008 82
APPENDIX M: FILTER CONSTRUCTION MONITORING
I. Background Information
Location Filter Technician

Interviewer Name Interviewed Date
Additional Information
BIOSAND FILTER QUALITY CONTROL Agree Disagree
1. Construction
1.1 Quality cement used and stored properly
1.2 Clean, quality sand and gravel used in concrete
1.3 Plastic or copper tube with 6 mm (1/4") I.D. used
1.4 Mold was straight, square, smooth, and well oiled
1.5 Concrete ratio: 1 cement, 2 sand, 1 gravel (6mm) and 1 gravel (12mm)
1.6 Concrete is cured by keeping damp for 5-7 days
1.7 Inside of mold is clean with no cement or oily residue except for where
the seal and joints are located
1.8 Water flows out the spout before sand is added at 2.5 L/minute
1.9 The filter production rate without cracks or leaks was greater than 95%.
(More than 95 filters out of every 100 filters should be leak proof)
1.10 Outside surface of the filter looks attractive and clean (washed and
painted if desired)
1.11 No leaks or cracks
1.12 Diffuser plate has 0.3 cm (1/8”) diameter holes placed on a grid 2.5
cm (1”) apart
January 2008 83
2. Record keeping
2.1 Production amounts and materials consumed were recorded
2.2 Construction materials used (quantities and cost) were recorded
2.3 Records of each production run (record of crack or unusable filters)

were kept
2.4 Sales records - amounts and prices were recorded
3. Filter Media
3.1 Effective Size: 0.10 mm to 0.25 mm

(preferred range is 0.15 mm to 0.20 mm)
3.2 Uniformity Coefficient: 1.5 mm to 2.5 mm (preferred is < 2)
3.3 % Passing #150 mesh: < 4%
3.4 Clean sand with no visible organic material
Notes/Comments:
January 2008 84
APPENDIX N: HOUSEHOLD MONITORING
II. Background Information
Location Household Name

Interviewer Name Interviewed Date
Additional Information
Yes No
1. Quality of Construction
1.1 Are there any leaks on the concrete filter body?
1.2 Is there a lid which covers the entire filter body?
1.3 Is there a diffuser plate without cracks or damage?
2. Proper Installation
2.1 Is the filter in a suitable location away from weather and animals?
2.2 Is this surface of the sand flat and level?
2.3 What is the depth of the water above the sand? __________ cm
2.4 What is the flow rate of the filter? ________ seconds/Litre
2.5 Is the water coming out of the filter clear?
3. Proper Use
3.1 Is there a valve or tube attached to the outlet of the fitler?
3.2 Is the outlet of the filter clean?
3.3 How often is the filter being used? Every 1 or 2 days ________
Every 3rd day or less ________
January 2008 85
4. Safe Water Storage
4.1 Does storage container have a lid?
4.2 Does the storage container have a tap or narrow opening to pour out the
water?
4.3 Is the storage container clean (e.g. free of dirt and algae)?
4.4 Does the household use different containers for collecting and storing
water?
Notes/Comments:
January 2008 86
APPENDIX O: SAND SIEVE ANALYSIS
Introduction
Most sand sieve analysis is performed by measuring the weight of the sand passing through (or retained
by) each sieve. However, in many field situations weight scales are not available or dependable for this
analysis. Sand sieve analyses using volume measurements rather than weight minimizes the equipment
required while still providing adequate results for analyzing sand for biosand filters. Note that this is not
an approved standard procedure but rather a workable field method for rapid assessment.
This analysis should be carried out after the sand has been washed to remove organic material and very
fine sand (‘rock flour’). Alternatively, this method can also be used to assess a potential sand source to
determine if it would be suitable for use as biosand filter media. All sand samples must be totally dry
before sieving.
Materials Required
1. Sand sample: at least 100 mL of very dry sand (the sample must be representative of sand to be
analyzed)
2. Graduated cylinder: 100 mL size, with 1 mL markings, plastic is recommended.
3. Set of sieve screens (‘wire mesh’):
• #24 sieve (opening size = 0.710 mm)
• Catch pan (to catch all sand that passes #150 sieve size)
• Sieve set lid (placed above the #24 sieve to contain the sand while sieving)
4. Semi-log graph paper (provided in Appendix O), pencil (or erasable ink pen) and ruler.
Instructions
1. Stack the sand sieves with the coarsest (#24) on top followed by the #40, #60, #80, #150 and
finally the Catch pan on the bottom.
2. Fill the graduated cylinder to the 100 mL mark with the dry sand sample. Use a piece of paper,
rolled or folded, as a ‘funnel’ to make it easier to fill the graduated cylinder.
3. Empty the entire 100 mL sample from the graduated cylinder onto the top sieve (#24) and place
the lid on top of the top sieve.
4. Shake the entire sieve column, including the bottom catch pan and top lid, for five minutes.
Shake both sideways and up and down to ensure the sand is allowed to fall through the various
screens. After 5 minutes, remove the top lid and place the sand from the #24 sieve into the
graduated cylinder. Use a piece of paper as a funnel to direct the sand into the cylinder. Read the
amount of sand in the graduated cylinder. Do not pour out the sand from the cylinder
afterwards. In the table on the semi-log graph paper provided in Appendix O, record the value in
the column; Cumulative Sand Retained for the #24 sieve.
January 2008 87
5. Remove the next sieve (#40) and place the sand from it into the cylinder (on top of the previous
sand), then read off the total sand in the cylinder from both sieves and record the value in the
column; Cumulative Sand Retained. Repeat this for the #60 sieve, then the #80 sieve, the #150
mesh, and finally the catch pan. Once all of these sieves (and catch pan) have been emptied into
the graduated cylinder, it should read approx. 100 mL. The cumulative sand retained may be
greater or less than the original 100 mL. Some sand may have been lost in the shaking etc. Try to
avoid any sand loss by emptying the sieves thoroughly and tap the cylinder lightly after each
sieve to help settling.
6. Calculate the Percent Retained and the Percent Passing for each sieve and record your results.
Example Sand Sieve Analysis

Sand Sieve Size Cumulative Sand Percent Retained Percent Passing
Retained
#24 11 mL 11 % 89 %
#40 24 mL 24 % 76 %
#60 74 mL 74 % 26 %
#80 94 mL 94 % 6%
#150 97.5 mL 97.5 % 1.5 %
Catch pan 100 mL 100 % 0%
7. Plot the Percent Passing value for each sieve size on the semi-log graph paper and then draw a
line joining the 5 points as shown in the Example Worksheet. (Line starts at #24 mesh size and
ends at #150 mesh size)
8. Determine the Effective Size and Uniformity Coefficient as follows:
Effective Size – This is defined as the size opening that will just pass 10% of the sand; the d10 value.
Read this value from the graph where the line crosses the 10% Passing line.
⇒ Effective Size = d10
⇒ Recommended range for Effective Size = 0.10 mm to 0.25 mm (preferred range for ES =
0.15 mm to 0.20 mm; this size will likely achieve 0.6 L/minute flow rate)
Uniformity Coefficient – Defined as a ratio and calculated as the size opening that will just pass 60% of
the sand (d60 value) divided by the size opening that will just pass 10% of the sand sample (the d10 value).
⇒ Uniformity Coefficient = d60 / d10
⇒ Recommended range for Uniformity Coefficient = 1.5 to 2.5 (the preferred UC will
normally be < 2.0 to achieve 0.6 L/minute flow rate).
Percent Passing #150 mesh – This is the measure of the very fine sand (‘rock flour’) that can create
plugging of the sand media and cause turbid (‘dirty looking’) water to be produced by the filter. CAWST
recommends that the sand is washed sufficiently so that not more than 4% of the sand will pass through
the #150 mesh screen (opening size is 0.104 mm).
⇒ Recommended value for Percent Passing #150 mesh < 4%
January 2008 88
January 2008 89
January 2008 90

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BIOSAND FILTER MANUAL

Design, Construction, Installation, Operation and Maintenance

BAY 12, 2916 – 5TH AVENUE

INTRODUCTION TO CAWST ............................................................................................... 4

APPENDIX A: STEEL MOLD FABRICATION .................................................................. 22

CAWST Centre for Affordable Water and Sanitation Technology

1 foot = 0.30 metres 1 inch = 2.54 cm 1 mm = 0.1 cm

The CAWST Model

CAWST’s main strategies are to:

• Make knowledge about water “common knowledge”;

Step 1 – Protecting the water source

Outlet Pipe – 6 mm (¼”) inner diameter (I.D.)

Sand Layer – 40 to 50 cm deep

Separating Gravel Layer – 6 mm (¼”) size – 5 cm deep

Underdrain Gravel Layer – 12 mm (½”) size – 5 cm deep

Concrete Filter Body

How does the filter work?

Inlet Reservoir: Space above the sand and gravel media

Standing Water: Oxygen diffuses through the standing water

Biolayer: Layer of slime, sediment, and microorganisms

Gravel Zone: Holds the sand in place which protects the

The inlet water contains dissolved oxygen, nutrients and

The standing water is lower in oxygen, nutrients, and

Sediment and larger pathogenss are strained out at the top

Halfway Through the Run

The Pause Period

Some oxygen from the air passes through the standing

The pause period allows time for microorganisms in the

Microorganisms in the sand zone die off due to the lack of

Lid Diffuser Basin

For instructions on Arsenic Removal see Appendix F.

High User Acceptability

Sufficient Water Quantity

Establishing the Biolayer

Figure 1 Establishing the Biolayer

99 After cleaning, the removal

Filtered Water Quality

• sodium hypochlorite (eg. household bleach)

Solar Water Disinfection (SODIS)

Ultraviolet (UV) Disinfection

SUMMARY OF CONTAMINANT REMOVAL EFFICIENCY

Dominican Stauber, C. University of North 2006

Health Impact Studies

Cement and Concrete

Gloves - Rubber Hack saw and Hammer - Hammer - Hand Drill

Hand Saw Hollow Pipe Level 1 litre measured Nails –

Pails Paintbrushes – Pliers – slip Sand Paper Scraper – 2.5cm

Screwdriver – Shovels Small Socket – 9/16” Stapler

Tape Measure Tin snips Tool Box Trowel T-Square

Wrench Open Hose Plastic Sheets Rags Markers/ Pencils

Chlorine Lumber Hardware Wire Screen Cement

Sand Gravel Vegetable Oil Crushed Galvanized

Plastic Plexiglass Duct Tape Metal Rod

OR 1 sheet plastic cardboard 1 ft2

OR 1 sheet plexiglass or stiff plastic 1 ft2

*CONCRETE FILTER 1:2:1:1

Sand 36 kg (24 L, 0.031 cubic yards, 0.85 cubic feet,

Copper tubing or plastic tubing 1 m (3 ft)

Steel mold Construct sieve Obtain gravel