Gau ge:

5.5 sts per inch, stockinette, with size 6 needles. But

this is not too crucial due to the nature of the ribbing
Si ze :
Again, ribbing is very forgiving. It’s meant for average
size adult, but it will still fit pretty much anyone. But
you can always go up or down a needle size if
necessary.

A bbre vi atio ns :
C2F: slide 1 stitch onto a cable needle, hold it front, knit
the next 1 stitch, knit the stitch from the cable needle.
c2f: slide 1 stitch onto a cable needle, hold it front, purl
the next 1 stitch, knit the stitch from the cable needle.
C2B: slide 1 stitch onto a cable needle, hold it back, knit
the next 1 stitch, knit the stitch from the cable needle.
This hat was created while watching hours c2b: slide 1 stitch onto a cable needle, hold it back, knit
and hours of The West Wing with my boyfriend. I was the next 1 stitch, purl the stitch from the cable needle.
never a fan of the show during its run, but once I got rm: remove marker
suckered into watching it, I was hooked. Many hours slm: slide marker
k2tog: knit two stitches together (left slanting decrease)
in November 2007 were in fact spent watching the
k1 tbl: knit one stitch through back loop
show while knitting – and this is one of the outcomes.

And the name of the hat derives from one of

the characters from the show, C. J. (Claudia Jean) Le t ’s get i t s t ar ted! :
Cregg. No, the hat isn’t inspired by the character, but Cast on 120 stitches on smaller circular. Join carefully
the conception and actual creation of the hat without twisting the stitches, place a marker to
happened while I was watching CJ-heavy episodes so indicate beginning of the round.
it got stuck from that point on. Or maybe I’m just
making this up. You’ll never know. RIBBED CUFF: 2x2 ribbing.
K1, repeat [P2, K2] until 3 sts remain, P2, K1. For
This is a simple ribbed hat with little trellis about 5 rows or until desired length.
detail toward bottom. It is very gender-neutral design
and because of the ribbed body, it also fits most
people’s head without having to be so exact.

M ateri al s ne ede d:
• Approx. 130 yds. of worsted weight wool (I
used one full skein and a wee left over of
Elann Peruvian Highland Wool in Oatmeal
Heather)
• 6 stitch markers – it helps to have one of them
be distinctive to show the beginning of the
round.
• Cable needle
• Size 4 (3.5 mm) 16 inch circular
• Size 6 (4 mm) 16 inch circular
• Size 6 (4 mm) double pointed needles
• Tapestry or yarn needle

1
CLAUDIA
TRELLIS PATTERN: This may see a bit of the round). Keep in mind all your purls will be
complicated, with knits and purls mixed in, but just purled, and knit stitches will be now knit through the
keep in mind you’ll always knit the knits and purl the back loop to show crisp definition. Decreases will be
purls. by k2tog last 2 stitches before each marker. This is
Row 1: k1, p2, repeat [C2F, p2] until 1 st remains, easy enough.
slide it onto cable needle, hold front, rm, knit next
stitch, slm, knit from cable needle Set up row: repeat [p2, k1 tbl] 5 times (that’s 15 sts),
Row2: k1 which is already done from last cable from place marker (do this 5 more times)
row 1, then repeat [p2, k2] until 3 sts remain, p2, k1,
slm Following instruction is for each section between the
Row 3: repeat [c2f, c2b] until end of row, slm markers. Make sure to repeat 5 times more to end of
Row 4: p1, repeat [k2, p2] until 3 sts remain, k2, p1, the row. Only the rows that you’ll decrease are written
slm out. Rows that are omitted, you need to purl the purls
Row 5: p1, repeat [C2B, p2] until 3 sts remain, C2B, and knit stitches are to be knit through the back loop.
p1, slm Switch to double points when it’s necessary.
Row 6: p1, repeat [k2, p2] until 3 sts remain, k2, p1, Row 1: rib 13 sts, k2tog, slm
slm Row 4: rib 12 sts, k2tog, slm
Row 7: repeat [c2b, c2f] until end of row, slm Row 7: rib 11 sts, k2tog, slm
Row 8: k1, repeat [p2, k2] until 3 sts remain, p2, k1, Row 9: rib 10 sts, k2tog, slm
slm Row 11: rib 9 sts, k2tog, slm
Row 9-11: repeat Row 1-3 Row 13: rib 8 sts, k2tog, slm
Row 12: p1, repeat [k2, p2] until 3 sts remain, k2, Row 15: rib 7 sts, k2tog, slm
SLIDE NEXT ST ON RIGHTT NEEDLE, REMOVE Row 17: rib 6 sts, k2tog, slm
MARKER, PUT STITCH BACK TO LEFT NEEDLE, Row 19: rib 5 sts, k2tog, slm
PLACE MARKER (now your center has moved one Row 20: rib 4 sts, k2tog, slm
stitch over). Row 21: rib 3 sts, k2tog, slm
Row 13: switch to larger needle, repeat [p2, k2tog], Row 22: p2tog, k2tog, slm
slm. Now you have 90 sts. Row 23: k2tog, rm

RIBBIN’ FOR NOGGIN: This is an easy and Break long enough yarn to thread it through the
mindless, 2x1 ribbing. remaining 6 stitches, tug it tight, weave in end. And
repeat [p2, k1tbl] until the hat measures 5-5.5” or until don’t forget to weave in the cast-on tail as well. Wash,
desired length. block and enjoy.

St yl i ng hi nt :
I did very short 2x2 cuff before the trellis detail.
However, the cuff can be longer for a different look, as
long as the total length before the crown shaping
remains the same. Also, if you prefer tighter cuff, you
may also consider using smaller needle (3.25 mm/US
3 perhaps?) for more snug fit.

Pattern and images © 2008 by MJ Kim

For personal use only – not for sale or profit. Be nice!

See more of my work at http://www.exartstudent.net/

CROWN SHAPING: Stitches will be divided up into

6 sections for decreasing. For the purpose of the
pattern, it’s written as if you’re using the markers but I
didn’t use it but it will help (it’s optional). You’ll need
to place a stitch marker after 15 stitches (total of 5,
plus one distinguishing marker to show the beginning

2
CLAUDIA