CROCHET PATTERN

Janine Myska | 2019 | @knitsnknotswpg

This is an original pattern by Knits ‘N Knots ©2019. Distribution of this document in whole or in part in any way is not allowed. You may sell
finished work with this pattern but please kindly include pattern credit to Knits ‘N Knots or link back to knitsnknots.ca. 1
Materials
Gauge
Yarn: Lion Brand Chainette in Beige
➢ 70% baby alpaca; 18% virgin wool; The gauge for the cowl neck differs from the
12% polyamide main gauge. Make sure to check both gauges to
➢ 131yds/50g ball ensure you are using the appropriate hook sizes
for your tension. For sample shown, the same
6 (8, 9, 11, 11) balls for sizes XS (S/M, L/XL, 6.5mm hook was used throughout the entire
2X/3X, 4X/5X) or 748 (931, 1131, 1336, 1420) pattern, but you may have to use two different
yds of similar category 4, medium weight yarn hooks depending on your gauge.
that matches gauge

Yarn substitutions: For similar result, use a Main gauge (used for everything but cowl
worsted weight yarn that has some baby alpaca neck)
content. Other fiber contents will work too, but 4” = 10.5 sts x 11 rows in stitch pattern
anything with a light, airy, fluffy feel will be the
most similar. For gauge swatch:
Ch 15.
Hook: Size K/10½ (6.5 mm) or size needed to Row 1: Dc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next
obtain gauge ch, *dc in next ch, sc in next ch; rep from
* to end of row, turn. [14 sts]
Notions: Tapestry needle, 8 stitch markers Row 2: Ch 1, *dc in next sc, sc in next
dc; rep from * to end of row, turn.

Abbreviations (US Terms) Rep Row 2 until swatch measures approx.

5” in height. If you plan on blocking your
ch(s): chain(s) finished sweater, block your swatch.
ch-sp(s): chain space(s) Measure the innermost 4” of your swatch
dc: double crochet to get most accurate measurement.
dec: decrease (working 2 stitches together)
• Work next st as usual but omitting the final
Gauge for cowl neck ribbing:
yarn-over and pull through, work next st as
3” = 10 sts x 6.5 rows in single crochet in the
usual but omitting the final yarn-over and pull
back loops only.
through, then yarn-over and pull through all
loops on hook.
Helpful Links:
FSC: foundation single crochet
• Ch 2, insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, yarn • How to work the foundation single
over and pull up a loop, (2 loops on hook), crochet
yarn over and draw through 1 loop (1 ch
made), yarn over and draw through 2 loops • How to choose the correct size to make
(this is 1 FSC). *Insert hook under 2 loops of
ch at bottom of first FSC, yarn over and pull
up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over and
• How to work into the ends of the rows
draw through 1 loop (1 ch made), yarn over
and draw through 2 loops, rep from * as • Read more about the Chainette
many times as pattern indicates. Turtleneck
rep: repeat
rnd(s): round(s) • View other Chainette Turtleneck
sc: single crochet projects on Ravelry
scBLO: single crochet in the back loop only
sk: skip For help with this sweater, email:
st(s): stitch(es) [email protected]
sl st: slip stitch 2
Pattern Notes Notes about fit
This sweater is designed to have a wide fit in
1. The yoke is worked first, then folded and the bust and gradually become more fitted
joined to separate for the armholes and the as the sleeves are worked to the wrists.
body of the sweater. Sleeves are worked last.
2. Sweater is reversible. For this design, length ends at mid-hip. For
3. “Work in pattern sequence” means to longer sweaters, more yarn will be required
alternate dc and sc stitches, working each dc than the yardage listed in Materials.
into a sc, and each sc into a dc (except when Instructions are included in the Body section
working into sts that have been decreased in
in the pattern on how to make a longer
the previous round, in which case you will
sweater.
continue the stitch pattern you have already
established).
4. Turning chains do not count as a stitch. Sleeves are meant to end a few inches
5. You will notice the turning chains are ch-1 before the wrist but are longer than a typical
throughout the pattern, even before a dc as ¾ length sleeve. Instructions for longer
the first stitch. This ch-1 is intentional to sleeves are included in the Sleeve section of
mimic the height of a sc and make the seam the pattern on where to add length.
less noticeable.
6. Pattern is written for 5 sizes: XS (S/M, L/XL, The cowl neck uses a different stitch pattern
2X/3X, 4X/5X). from the rest of your sweater. If your cowl
7. The end-of round stitch counts in bold refer
neck does not measure as shown in the
to the total number of sc and dc only and do
sizing chart, you can adjust your hook size
not include chains.
8. There are 4 sides when working the yoke. for this section in order to achieve the
The side that has the seam from joining proper cowl circumference.
rounds is the back of your sweater. The 2
adjacent sides are the sleeves, and the
opposite side is the front of your sweater.
See photo below.

Back
(the edge with the seam from joining rnds)
Sleeve
Sleeve

Front

3
Sizing Chart
A B C D E F G H I

Underarm Cowl Neck

Bottom Raglan Upper Cowl Neck Underarm
Bust to Upper Height Wrist
Width Depth Arm Circumference to Wrist
Hip (Unfolded)

XS 38” 15.5” 10.5” 11” 14.5” 6” 18.5” 6” 14.5”

96.5cm 39cm 27cm 28cm 37cm 15cm 47cm 15cm 37cm

S/M 44” 16.5’ 11” 12.5” 16” 6” 22” 7.5” 14”

112cm 42cm 28cm 32cm 41cm 15cm 56cm 19cm 36cm

L/XL 52” 20.5” 11.5” 15” 17.5 6” 22” 8.5” 14”

132cm 52cm 29cm 38cm 44cm 15cm 56cm 22cm 36cm

2X/3X 60.5” 24” 12” 16” 20.5” 6” 22” 9” 13”

154cm 61cm 30cm 41cm 52cm 15cm 56cm 23cm 33cm

4X/5X 66” 27” 12.5” 17” 22” 6” 22” 9” 13”

168cm 69cm 32cm 43cm 56cm 15cm 56cm 23cm 33cm

To fit bust sizes: 28-31 (32-39, 40-47, 48-55, 56-62)”

71-79 (81-99, 102-119, 122-140, 142-157)cm

This sweater is meant to be oversized (up to 12”/30.5cm of positive ease) around the bust,
oversized in the upper arms and gradually become tapered and more fitted around the
wrist. To choose the proper size, look at the bust measurements in column A and find the
size that equals up to 12”/30.5cm larger than your bust depending on your desired amount
of positive ease and make this size. If between sizes, size down.
4
PATTERN YOKE
From now on we will be working in joined rnds.
COWL Turn your work after completing each rnd.

Using smaller hook To keep track of raglan increases, place marker

in each corner ch-sp and move marker to new
Row 1 (all sizes): Leaving long tail, FSC 20, ch-sp every rnd.
turn.
Setting up raglan increases
View FSC tutorial here. Rnd 1: Ch 1, [dc in next st, sc in next st] 3 (3,
3, 4, 4) times, ch 1, [dc in next st, sc in next st]
For a taller or shorter cowl, add or subtract from 4 (5, 5, 3, 3) times, ch 1, [dc in next st, sc in
this foundation chain to your desired cowl height. next st] 6 (7, 7, 9, 9) times, ch 1, [dc in next st,
sc in next st] 4 (5, 5, 3, 3) times, ch 1, [dc in
Row 2-40 (48, 48, 48, 48): Ch 1, scBLO in next st, sc in next st] 3 (4, 4, 5, 5) times, sl st
each st across, turn. into first dc to join rnd, turn work to begin
working in opposite direction.
Your work should measure approx. 18-22”/47- [40, 48, 48, 48, 48 sts]
56cm in length. If your ribbing is significantly
shorter, you can block it now to achieve the Rnd 1 is the most important rnd which
proper measurement or you can try re-working it establishes the stitch pattern. Double check that
with a larger hook. Once satisfied with cowl you have followed these instructions for Rnd 1
circumference, seam last row and foundation row carefully before proceeding!
together to create a tube using tail from
foundation row. Note: Square brackets – [ ] – indicate the
sequence that is to be repeated, the number
We are now going to work into the ends of the following these square brackets is the number of
rows we just worked. View tutorial here for times the sequence is to be repeated. Make sure
working into the ends of finished rows. you follow the numbers for your size only.

Next Rnd: Ch 1, sc 1 st in the ends of each row Rnd 2: Ch 1, work each st in pattern sequence
around, sl st to first st to join rnd, turn. while working (dc, ch 1, sc) in each corner ch-
[40, 48, 48, 48, 48 sts] sp, sl st into first dc to join rnd, turn.
[48, 56, 56, 56, 56 sts]

We are now done with the smaller hook. Rnd 3: Ch 1, work each st in pattern sequence
Switch to larger (main gauge) hook. while working (sc, ch 1, dc) in each corner ch-
sp, sl st into first dc to join rnd, turn.
[56, 64, 64, 64, 64 sts]

Rep rnd 2 and 3 until sleeve edges have 34 (38,

42, 46, 50) sts and front/back edges have 38
(42, 46, 58, 62) sts.

5
We have now reached the desired sleeve BODY
measurement, so we will stop increasing the
sleeves, maintaining the same number of sleeve Description – Joining Rnd
sts, but continue increasing on the front and In this rnd, we will work across back edge as
back sides to create space for the bust. usual to first ch-sp, then sk entire sleeve edge,
creating an armhole. Then we will work specified
For this next section, you will have 2 of the number of underarm chs that will allow more
same sts beside each other at the corners mobility in the arms for a better fit, then
separated by a ch-sp. This is ok as long as each continue to work across entire front edge until
of the 4 edges (ex. sleeve edge, front edge) reaching third ch-sp. Here, we will do the same
maintain the stitch pattern. thing and sk entire sleeve edge and work
specified number of underarm chs. Lastly, we
Bust Increase Rnd: Ch 1, work each st in will continue to work across remainder of back
pattern sequence while making the following panel to join rnd.
increases in each ch-sp:

1st & 3rd ch-sp: (work 1 st in pattern sequence, Joining Rnd: (see photo below)
ch 1) PM in the first and last st of each sleeve edge to
help identify these sts later when we begin working
2nd & 4th ch-sp: (ch 1, work 1 st in pattern the sleeves.
sequence) Work each st in pattern sequence to first ch-sp,
ch 4 (4, 4, 8, 8), sk 34 (38, 42, 46, 50) sts (the
turn work at end of each rnd. entire sleeve edge) work each st across front
side in pattern sequence until third ch-sp, ch 4
Rep Bust Increase Rnd until the front and back (4, 4, 8, 8), sk 34 (38, 42, 46, 50) sts (the
edges of your work each have 46 (54, 64, 72, entire other sleeve edge), work in pattern
78) sts. sequence to end of rnd, sl st into first dc to join
rnd, turn. {92, 108, 128, 144, 156 sts; 8, 8,
At this point, your yoke should look like a square 8, 16, 16 total chs}
with slightly rounded edges as shown in the
photo below. Don’t worry if your raglan Note: You will not be working any sts into the
increases seem to be curving in one direction, corner ch-sp when joining the yoke.
they will straighten out once the body and
sleeves are added.

Back
(the edge with the seam from joining rnds)

Joining Rnd: This photo is what your work

should look like right after you’ve worked across
Sleeve

Sleeve

back (or front) edge, skipped entire sleeve edge,

worked specified number of chs for your size
(here we worked 4 chs), and worked next st into
front (or back) edge.

Next Rnd: Ch 1, work entire rnd in pattern

sequence working into each st and each ch, sl st
into first st to join rnd, turn.
Front [100, 116, 136, 160, 172 sts]
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Next Rnd: Ch 1, work entire rnd in pattern Decrease Rnd 5: follow your size
sequence, sl st to join rnd, turn.
XS: Done decreasing; proceed to Next
Rep last rnd until work measures approx. Rnd.
5”/13cm from underarm.
S/M: Ch 1, work 21 sts in pattern
Note: This sweater is designed to end at mid- sequence, [dec] 2 times, work 42 sts in
hip. For longer sweater, rep previous row until pattern sequence, [dec] 2 times, work in
sweater is approximately 5”/13cm shorter than pattern sequence to end of rnd, sl st to
your desired length. Then, follow pattern as join, turn. [88 sts]
written.
L/XL: Ch 1, sk first st, work 22 sts in
pattern sequence, [dec] 2 times, work 4
Decrease Rnd 1: sts in pattern sequence, [dec 2 times]
Ch 1, sk first st, work 22 (26, 31, 37, 40) sts in work 42 sts in pattern sequence, [dec] 2
pattern sequence, [dec] 2 times, work 46 (54, times, work 4 sts in pattern sequence,
64, 76, 82) sts in pattern sequence, [dec] 2 [dec] 2 times, work in pattern sequence
times, work 22 (26, 31, 37, 40) sts in pattern to end of rnd, sl st to join. [102 sts]
sequence, sk last st, sl st to join rnd, turn.
[94, 110, 130, 154, 166 sts] 2X/3X: Ch 1, work 8 sts in pattern
sequence, [dec] 2 times, *work 13 sts in
Next 2 rnds: Ch 1, work in pattern sequence to pattern sequence, [dec] 2 times; rep from
end of rnd, sl st to join rnd, turn. * 6 more times, work in pattern sequence
to end of rnd, sl st to join, turn. [120 sts]
Decrease Rnd 2:
Ch 1, sk first st, work 20 (25, 29, 36, 39) sts in 4X/5X: Ch 1, work 6 sts in pattern
pattern sequence, [dec] 2 times, work 44 (50, sequence, *[dec] 2 times, work 12 sts in
62, 72, 78) sts in pattern sequence, [dec] 2 pattern sequence; rep from * 7 more
times, work 20 (25, 29, 36, 39) sts in pattern times, [dec] 2 times, work in pattern
sequence, sk last st, sl st to join rnd, turn. sequence to end of rnd, sl st to join, turn.
[88, 104, 124, 148, 160 sts] [130 sts]

Next 2 rnds: Ch 1, work in pattern sequence to Next Rnd: Ch 1, work eat st in pattern
end of rnd, sl st to join rnd, turn. sequence to end of rnd, sl st to join rnd, turn.

Decrease Rnd 3: Rep last rnd until work measures 10.5 (11, 11.5,
Ch 1, sk first st, work 19 (23, 28, 34, 37) sts in 12, 12.5)” or 27 (28, 29, 30, 32)cm from
pattern sequence, [dec] 2 times, work 40 (48, underarm or to desired sweater length.
58, 70, 76) sts in pattern sequence, [dec] 2
times, work 19 (23, 28, 34, 37) sts in pattern Fasten off, weave ends.
sequence, sk last st, sl st to join rnd, turn.
[82, 98, 118, 142, 154 sts]

Next 2 rnds: Ch 1, work in pattern sequence to

end of rnd, sl st to join rnd, turn.

Decrease Rnd 4:
Ch 1, sk first st, work 18 (21, 26, 33, 36) sts in
pattern sequence, [dec] 2 times, work 36 (46,
56, 66, 72) sts in pattern sequence, [dec] 2
times, work 18 (21, 26, 33, 36) sts in pattern
sequence, sl st to join rnd, turn.
[76, 92, 112, 136, 148 sts]

7
SLEEVES Work the following rnds:
(Follow your size only; total number of rnds
With new yarn, insert hook into center of given includes Rnd 1 you just completed.)
underarm. Make sure you are working in correct
direction. The V’s should be facing away from Try on the sweater as you work the sleeves to
you. (If they are facing you, turn your work make sure you are comfortable with the fit. For
inside out OR simply insert your hook through tighter or loose sleeves, simply add or omit
the stitch from the opposite direction.) decrease rnds as you see fit.

XS (S/M): Work a total of 40 (39) rnds,

decreasing in the following rnds: 2, 6, 10, 14,
18, 22, 26, 29, 32, 35, 38.
You will finish with 16 (20) sts.

L/XL: Work a total of 39 rnds, decreasing in the

following rnds: 3, 6, 9, 12, 15, 18, 21 24, 27,
30, 33, 36.
You will finish with 22 sts.

2X/3X: Work a total of 36 rnds, decreasing in

Rnd 1: Ch 1, work 2 (2, 2, 4, 4) sts evenly the following rnds: 3, 6, 9, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20,
before the first st marker, continue working in 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34.
pattern sequence up to and including second You will finish with 24 sts.
marker, work 2 (2, 2, 4, 4) sts evenly after
second marker, sl st into first st to join rnd, 4X/5X: Work a total of 36 rnds, decreasing in
turn. {38 (42, 46, 54, 58} the following rnds: 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16,
18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34. (all even
rnds except for Rnd 36)
You will finish with 24 sts.
For the remainder of the sleeve, work the
rnds as specified in the column on the next
page, where: To add sleeve length, simply work additional
non-decrease rnds after you finish the total
A “decrease rnd” is worked as follows: number of rnds indicated for your size.
Ch 1, sk first st, work each st in pattern
sequence up to last st, sk last st, sl st into first Weave ends and you’re done!
st to join rnd, turn.
[decreases rnd by 2 sts] Blocking
Block sweater if desired to smooth out the
Every rnd that is NOT a decrease rnd is decreases from the body.
worked as follows:
Ch 1, work each st in pattern sequence to end of Back Seam
rnd, sl st into first st to join rnd, turn. The back-seam from joining rnds blends into the
fabric nicely but is still slightly visible. If you
can’t immediately tell which side is meant to be
the back, you may want to add something to
distinguish which is the front and which is the
back (tag, label, etc.) so that you can wear it the
proper way without having to search for the
seam every time!

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