Desert Magazine 1961 January

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Magazine of the

OUTDOOR SOUTHWEST
Desert Magazine
BACK ISSUE
SALE
DESERT is one of the few magazines people save and have bound—and
there's a good reason for it: ACCURATE INFORMATION on the fascinating
Desert Southwest's places of interest, flora and fauna, human inhabitants,
history, back-country trails and modern highways, gem fields, and lost
treasure areas. These back issues are complete and in good condition.
Orders promptly filled and mailed postage-paid.

— ORDER BY SETS —
FIELD TRIPS I LOST TREASURE I
Mar 55—Gems of Monle Cristo Mts. (Nev)* Apr 55-Lost Hardin Silver (Nev.)*
May 55-Bell Rocks of Big Sandy Valley (Ariz.)* Jun 55-Hidden Gold of Bicuner (Calif.)*
Jul 55—Gems in Trinity Range (Nev.)* Jul 55-Dark Gold on the Tabaseca Trail (Calif.)*
Aug 55—Opal Miner of Rainbow Ridge (Nev.)* Sep 5 5 - W e Lost a Gold Ledge in the Panamints (Calif.)*
Sep 55-Trilobite Fossils Near Amboy (Calif.)* Oct 55—Lost Gold of the Algodones (Calif.)*
Oct. 55—Day in Greenwater Canyon (Calif.)* Nov. 55-Lost Gold of Jarbidge (Nev.)*

FIELD TRIPS II LOST TREASURE II


Nov 55—Rock Trails in Chemehuevi-Land (Calif.)* Feb 56—Treasure Canyon of the Coso Ancients (Calif.)*
Dec 55—Saddle Mountain Chalcedony (Ariz.)* Mar 56—Lost Gold in the Chocolate Mts. (Calif.)*
Feb 56—Red Rock Canyon Gem Trails (Calif.)* Oct 56—Lost Jesuit Mine with the Iron Door (Ariz.)
Apr 56—Serpentine Miners of Salt Creek Canyon (Ariz.)* Jan 57—Lost Apache Gold in the Little Horns (Ariz.)*
Jul 56—Petrified Palm Near Ogilby (Calif.)* Mar 57-Pegleg Mine-Fact or Fable? (Calif.)
Mar 57—Jasper in Barstow Badlands (Calif.)* May 57—Lost Silver in the Trigos (Ariz.)*

DESERT PERSONALITIES TRAVEL


Jun 55—Ace Gardner on the Trail Mar 55—Camper's Tour of Mexico (Murbarger)*
Nov 55-Charles Kelly of Capitol Reef Aug 55—Devil's Canyon, Baja Calif. (Henderson)*
Mar 56—Saga of Frying Pan Ebbens Jul 56—Boat Trip in Canyon of lodore, Utah (Henderson)*
Jan 57—The Huntingtons of Saw Tooth Ridge (Nev.)* Nov 56—Utah's Rugged Needles Country (Carroll)*
Mar 57—Prospector Ed Smith of Marietta (Nev.)* Jun 57—Vacation in Baja California (Appleby)*
May 57-The Mantles of Castle Park (Utah)* Jul 57—New Mexico's Back Country (Murbarger)*

GHOST TOWNS DESERT GARDENING, BOTANY I


Oct 55-They Found New Wealth in Fairview (Nev.)* May 55-When the Palo Verdes Bloom
Apr 56—Jerome—Mingus Mountain Ghost (Ariz.) Jun 55—My Bamboo Was the Traveling Kind
Jan 57—Boom and Bust at Leadfield (Calif.)* Jul 55—When the Rains Fail to Come
Apr 57-Old Dale and New Dale (Calif.)* Aug 55—Flowers That Blossom in August
Oct. 57-Vanderbilt and Manvel (Calif.)* Sep 55—What Grass for the Desert Lawn?
Nov 58—Chinese Ghost Town in the Humboldt Range (Nev.)* Oct 55—Planning a Winter Garden

WILDLIFE DESERT GARDENING, BOTANY II


Jun 55—Diving Owls of Borrego Valley Nov 55—Tamarisk in the Back Yard
Jun 56—Wild Burros on the Desert Dec 55—Valiant Is the Ironwood
Oct 56—Midgets of the Desert World Mar 56—Olive Trees for Shade and Beauty
Mar 57—The Busy World of Desert Ants Apr 56—It's Perennial Planting Time
Jun 57—King Snake Is Immune to Poison June 56—Summer Garden Zinnias, Marigolds
Sep 57—1 Was Bitten by a Gila Monster Jul 56—Landscaping with Native Plants

*stories with detailed maps

Supplies are limited, and we reserve the


right to make appropriate substitutions. Each Set of 6 Magazines $I
Single copies may be purchased from the
above lists at 25c — minimum order: $1 All 10 Sets (26 different magazines)

MAIL YOUR ORDER TODAY TO: DEPT. J - l


DESERT MAGAZINE
PALM DESERT, CALI
Volume «^^«IB»^^BBBW. Number

DuvtL
POEM OF THE MONTH

-magazine of the Outdoor Southwest-


CHARLES E. SHELTON
publisher
EUGENE L. CONROTTO EVONNE RIDDELL
editor circulation manager

Contents for January 1961


COVER Photographer Darwin Van Campen of Phoenix
calls this chilly scene, "Stream Through Winter-
land." Cover picture was taken in Oak Creek
Canyon, Arizona.
TOUR 7 Davis and Parker Dams I. D. Earl
ATTIRE 10 Western Hats Harrison Doyle
Artist's Lament EXPLORATION 12
HOMEMAKING 15
Arizona Desert Stream
"Second Chance" Cabin
Elizabeth Rigby
Margaret Arensberg
Once in a blue moon PERSONALITY 16 Friend of the Cahuilla Nina Paul Shumway
RECLAMATION 20 Water from the Sea William E. Warne
The desert has snow. John W. Hilton
SCIENCE 22 Vermilion Sea Field Station
Once in a blue moon! PERSONALITY 26 Cowboy Shorty Boyd Beulah Meeks
How, then, could I know HIKING 28 Afoot with a Compass Charles R. Ege
TRAVEL 31 California's Saguaroland Lucile Weight
It would cover the ground ARCHEOLOGY 33 Ancient Sanctuary lames Tallon
While I was away? NATURE 34 Indian Uses of Native Plants Edmund Jaeger
PHOTOGRAPHY 35 Cactus Blossom's Life Hiram Parent
Since my return
BACK COVER Hats that Won the West Artist: Monte Orr
I have watched every day
For a glimpse of the falling, — also —
Feathery fluff, Poem of the Month: 3
Patting the ground Letters: 4 32: Hard Rock Shorty
New Desertland Books: 6 39. Trading Post Classifieds
Like a powder puff . . . Southwest News Briefs: 30 42: Editorial
They tell me the desert
The Desert Magazine, founded in 1937 by Randall Henderson, is published monthly
by Desert Magazine, Inc., Palm Desert, California. Re-entered as second class
Was candlewick white— matter July 17, 1948, at the postoffice at Palm Desert, California, under the Act
of March 3, 1879. Title registered No. 358865 in U.S. Patent Office, and contents
I could weep to have missed copyrighted 1961 by Desert Magazine, Inc. Permission to reproduce contents must
be secured from the editor in writing.
Such a paintable sight!
Unsolicited manuscripts and SUBSCRIBE or let us
photographs submitted can-
not be returned or acknowl- TO send it to a friend
—Helena Ridgway Stone edged unless full return
postage is enclosed. Desert
Magazine assumes no re-
sponsibility for damage or
DtAtfiL
• One Year-$4 • Three Years-$ 10.50
loss of manuscripts or pho-
tographs although due care (Canadian subscriptions 25c extra, foreign 50c extra per year)
PHOTO and ART credits will be exercised. Subscribers
should send notice of change SEND DESERT MAGAZINE TO:
(Unless otherwise specified below or in text, of address by the first of
photographs and art work are by authors of the month preceding issue.
features in which they appear.)
Page 3: Burton S. Turney. 7: R. C. Mid-
dletown. 8: Map by Norton Allen. 9:
Bureau of Reclamation. 10: Adrian At-
water (second from top); C. C. Pierce Address all editorial and (mailing address)
Collection (third); Charley Mitchell (bot- circulation correspondence to
tom). 11: New Mexico State Tourist Desert Magazine, Palm Des-
Bureau. 14: Map by Norton Allen. 16: ert, California.
Hulbert Burroughs (valley). 22: Map by (city, state)
Norton Allen. 22-25: Vermilion Sea Field If this is a gift, indicate how gift card should be signed:
Station. 3 1 : Harold O. Weight. 34:
Southwest Museum. 43: painting by Bill Address all advertising
Bender. Back Cover: illustrated by Monte correspondence to James D.
Orr. Going Associates, 560 N. Mail this information and your remittance to: Desert Magazine,
Larcnmont, Los Angeles. Palm Desert, California.
4, Calif. Phone HO 6-2854.

January, 1961 / Desert Magazine / 3


dusty, rough ride" to reach Bodie. Few
true ghost towns are found alongside high-

LETTERS ways. They are tucked-away in off-the-


beaten path locales.
THOMAS C. RATICAN
Los Angeles
FROM OUR READERS

Right M a n For the Job . . . had with him a picture for the art exhibit
at Furnace Creek Inn.
To the Editor: Professor Lister's article in To the Editor: May the 18 miles to Bodie
the December issue ("Plugging the Cultural I appreciate your story on Bill as it con-
firms my predictions made at the time of never be paved, and the curio shop interests
Gap") is quite a feather in Desert Maga- never find it.
zine's cap. Such a clarification was needed our meeting. I have seen him only once
for a long time, and Lister was the man to since. The photo I made was taken with- ANNA MAY RATHBUN
do it. out his knowledge at a time he was Arcadia, Calif.
PAUL HULDERMANN shaving.
Scottsdale, Ariz. I thank you for your support of this very
promising artist.
HENRY M. FORD
Yucaipa, Calif
Moving A Saguaro . . .
To the Editor: In the November magazine
Confirming a Prediction . . . you had a story about a giant saguaro cac-
To the Editor: In appreciation of your ex- tus being transplanted from the wilds to
cellent article about the young artist Bill the front yard of a residence. I have read
Bender appearing in your November issue, The Desert Revisited . . . that it is unlawful to remove desert plants.
I am taking the liberty of sending to you A. JONES
To the Editor: At 86 I can no longer go South San Gabriel, Calif
a photo I made in Death Valley eight years to our beloved desert, but can relive it
ago. with Dr. Jaeger's articles in your publica- (The saguaro was removed from private
I was attending the annual encampment tion. land. The law in question protects the
of the 49ers and was camped at Texas flora on public land.—Ed.)
Formerly, if time permitted, it was a
Springs, when along came a young man camel trip in North Africa, an elephant
jaunt in the Hindustan desert, or a visit
to Peru.
Dr. Jaeger's November article, "Deer on
the Desert," recalls tracks on the Mojave The Subject Comes Alive . . .
after a rain: the big pad of a mountain
lion . . . the hoof marks of a doe . . . then To the Editor: Your magazine is a ray of
a blur which must have been the death . . . Southwest sunshine which we all look for-
beyond—only lion trail. ward to each month. My young sons,
C. M. GOETHE Eaton and Gayland, peruse it from cover
Sacramento, Calif. to cover, and their father and I read many
of the articles to them.
Gayland's third grade class is studying
American Indians. Several weeks ago we
boxed every issue of Desert we had and
BENDER'S CLOSE SHAVE AT TEXAS SPRINGS Bodie Is NOT a Gyp Gayland took them to school. Your many
beautiful and colorful articles on Indians
To the Editor: First thing I read in the come alive in a real way to the children.
in a station wagon looking for a campsite. December issue was Merwin K. Warner's The third grade is greatly enjoying a happy
I motioned him to the spot next to me letter calling Bodie "a gyp." education through your magazine.
which was rather secluded, and there we
spent the better part of three days and What did he expect a real ghost town MRS. A . W. COOK, Jr.
nights using a common campfire. to look like? Bright lights and a drug Cooksburg, Penn.
We were both alone and as we seemed store on every corner? Bodie is the best
preserved ghost town in California because
to enjoy the company of one another, I it is boarded-up. Without such protection,
learned enough about Bill to assure myself it would have been carted-off piece by piece
that this fellow was an artist at heart, by souvenir hunters long ago
although he did not confess to me until the
second day that he was then painting and Mr. Warner complained about the "long They Still Don't Work . . .
To the Editor: Some of your readers may
remember my letter of October, 1957,
wherein I stated "doodle bugs do not work."

"HADt BY MAC" After three years I still say these so-called


precious-metal locators do not work.
In response to that letter in the maga-
KAMP KING zine, I got replies from all over the United
States extolling the virtues of various
KOACHES doodle bugs. I was even taken to task by
some for calling these devices "doodle bugs"
The Ultimate in Campers rather than "locators."
For your safety all Kamp King Koaches Prices of sure-fire locators quoted to me
are constructed on an all-metal covered ranged from nothing to several thousand
base. Sidewalls are %-inch solid ply- Two Sizes dollars. All manufacturers were willing to
wood with expansion-type aluminum 10' with 4' over cab 8'-6" with 4'over cab prove to me—generally at my expense—
sheathing over double insulation. Approx. weight 1450 Approx. weight 1300 that their doodle bugs did work; but dur-
Width (both) 6'-8" Headroom (both) 6'-2" ing these three years all they have proven
OVER CAB MODEL WITH SIDE DINETTE Many models to choose from is that the instruments do not work.
I will grant that most operators I had
McNAMEE COACH CORPORATION contact with seemed to be smart enough
to keep up their business or profession, and
2501 NO. ROSEMEAD BLVD. Dept. D-l EL MONTE, CALIF.
therefore are able to make a living. By

4 / Desert Magazine / January, 1961


this they must, if honest with themselves, They throw out garbage and beer cans and
admit that their doodle bugs are a failure. don't even have the decency to cover their
Even though they may tell of what riches QUICKEST WAY TO own filth. We had to get farther away from
their doodle bugs have or can find, these OUTDOOR COMFORT "civilization" in order to live decent. If
men continue to work for a living. Why? that is the kind of people you want to take
Simply because their doodle bugs have never From the top of your car the place of us prospectors, you will have
proven successful. They may be alright to Death Valley all to yourself.
play around with as a hobby—but don't
make any plans of becoming a millionaire The prospector is the most conservative
by what they might locate. of any man on earth. He has to be. He
lives next to nature and loves the desert.
HOLLIS J. GORDON Not so with your city beatnik. Just visit
Independence, Mo. a prospector's camp and you will see what
To A Spacious Room 7vi' by IOV2'
I mean. In our African camp we buried all
garbage, and do the same at our Death
Valley camp.
There are all sorts of minerals in Death
Hero's Big Bang . . . Valley, free to all good Americans; but the
city beatniks lack the guts to get out and
To the Editor: Being a railfan, I enjoyed prospect.
the article in the November Desert on Jesus
Garcia, "Sonora's Railroad Hero." Up on Telescope Peak and in that area
there is gold, and 1 have got good readings
However, there is one point that needs of uranium in several places. It is low
clarifying: you say Garcia's body was grade, but will be good enough to work
found amid the wreckage of the dynamite- when the high-grade is gone.
laden train; an earlier report 1 read said no
trace of the body was found after the You should plug for decent mining laws.
terrific explosion. Remember what one Prohibit anyone from holding ground they
truckload of dynamite did to Roseburg, can not work or do not work; have a min-
Oregon? ing inspector (civil service) to inspect every
JOHN W. MAXON claim, and report those who are delinquent
Upland, Calif in the papers—then you will see few "holes
in the ground."

Check these fine features:


Every prospector should be required to
1. Sets up quickly and easily in a few
have a license, the same as hunters and
minutes.
fishermen. In South Africa the miners'
2. DETACHES from car in seconds—Just
license costs about $4.80. No one is allowed
The Prospectors' Case . . . push two buttons and guy rope.
to dig up ground on the public domain
3. Carrier has room for gear for four
without this license. The license fee pays
To the Editor: I note that your July edi- the mining inspector's salary and expenses.
torial plugs for the prohibition of all pros- people besides Kar Kamp. Station-
pecting in Death Valley. Sounds like good wagon models loges gear for 8. We can work to make America beautiful
policy on the face of it, but let us look 4. Quality duck;—has floor, screened and with the right laws; not by driving the
more into the matter. I can see no reason zippered doors and windows, weighs prospector off the public domain. Rather,
to prohibit Americans from prospecting 88 lbs. let us regulate the casual city weekender
there or any other place, for the landscape 5. Fits any hard top car—large or small, and beatnik who scatter their garbage about
would not be defaced if we had proper foreign cars too. the desert.
laws. Prices $153.95 up
Write for booklet to These same city slickers shot up the little
I prospected in South Africa where they burros in Death Valley and left them to
have a mining inspector who visits your Kar Kamp Mfg., 8925 E. Gnrvey Ave. suffer and die. The burros don't bother
claim periodically, measures the work done, Dept. L, S. San Gabriel, Calif. anyone. They get their sustenance up in
and publishes the names of those who hold the canyons and only come out to the
ground they can't work. No one is allowed springs to drink at night. I cannot imagine
to stake a hundred claims and hold a job the mentality of the man who would want
in town, or turn in assessment work papers UNDISCOVERED WEALTH! to shoot one of these creatures, and then
on ground that not a tap of work was done let it lay.
on. Buried loot, coins, silver, gold,
jewelry, battle relics! Transistor I have spoken to dozens of prospectors
In Africa you get a diamond claim just M-SCOPE detects them all. Used in Death Valley about the little burros. I
30 feet square, and when you get worked worldwide by experienced explor- didn't find one man among them who has
out you report this fact to the mining ers since 1932. Exciting! Reward-
ing! Lightweight and supersensi-
ever shot one of these creatures.
inspector, who then comes out to inspect tive,the powerful M-SCOPE offers BARNEY LEE
the claim. You don't get another claim greater depth penetration, over Gentry, Arkansas
until you get that ground worked out. 200 treasure hunting days of
Then the ground has to be leveled off just battery life. From $59.50. Easy
as it was when you found it. terms. Guaranteed. Write for the
FREE illustrated booklet of fas-
In America you can go out and stake cinating customer experiences.
a hundred claims and keep your job in
town. Look at the recorder's books in any
mining district if you don't believe it. One
FISHER RESEARCH LAB. INC. The War Is Won . . .
Dept2,C,Pal° Alto, Calif.
man I know has over a hundred claims and
works every day in town. If an honest To the Editor: I was deeply interested to
prospector wanted to stake and work one learn from Melissa Branson Stedman's letter
of these claims he would be called a "claim published in the December issue of your
jumper," and ordered off by the "paper magazine that our cold war adversaries are
. . . . Of now carrying out their nefarious missions
hanger."
by means of peyote buttons instead of
universal interest.. double martinis. It is most heartening. The
I have written to our senators about this
and received side-track answers; apparently thought of a foreign spy approaching one
our politicians love confusion. The Classified Ads in the of our governmental eggheads with a candy-
DESERT MAGAZINE'S sack full of peyote is intriguing, but not
I have several uranium claims in Death frightening. If what Mrs. Stedman says is
Valley. I made my headquarters in Balla-
rat, and I wish you could just see some of
those "understanding people who love the
TRADING POST
Direct line merchandising, seller to buyer,
true, I am sure we have the cold war won
right now, with no further effort needed.
I want to thank her for the good news.
desert" who come out from Los Angeles on in the Trading Post (see pages 39, 40, 41)
ROBERT H. TREGO
the weekend and camp near our old adobe. Unionville, Nev.

January, 1961 / Desert Magazine / 5


course, is the souvenir town in southern
Arizona which survived the Earps, Clan-
BOOKS of the SOUTHWEST tons and McLaurys, and is now struggling
to live through the Tourist Age.
All in all, Lloyd and Rose Hamill,
A PRACTICAL GUIDE quick and simple identification of minerals. husband-and-wife photo/journalism team,
There also are chapters and charts on: rare do a creditable job with their "Photographs
TO FLUORESCENCE minerals, industrial minerals, surveys of and Drawings Plus Elegant and Moving
Fluorescence fascinates the rockhound. ores, fine points of prospecting, and radio- Prose." The book also parades some good-
Nothing in his collection brings forth such active minerals. looking old type faces.
exclamations of awe and wonder as the Ultraviolet Guide to Minerals was written Tombstone Picture Gallery sells for $2
gorgeous glow awakened in a drab-looking by Sterling Gleason; 244 pages; index; il-
rock when the ultraviolet light is turned on which, the authors point out, is "less than
lustrations (color, and black-and-white); the price of a good supply of snuff." 24
it. $6.95 from Desert Magazine Book Store pages. Can be purchased by mail from
Most hobbyists are not content to stop (see footnote below). Desert Magazine Book Store (see details
at seeing fluorescence—they want to know below).
what it is. Ultraviolet Guide to Minerals PAST AND PRESENT
is designed to aid them in this search for OF TOMBSTONE. ARIZONA
the basic knowledge of fluorescence. The Books reviewed on this page can be purchased
first part of this recently published book Fine contemporary photographs with a by mail from Desert Magazine Book Store,
deals with the art of identifying minerals feeling for the old, highlight a paperback Palm Desert, California. Please add 15c for
by their fluorescence under ultraviolet light. postage and handling per book. California
square-format (11x11") book entitled residents also add 4% sales tax. Write for free
This leads to a unique set of charts for Tombstone Picture Gallery. Tombstone, of book catalog.

SOUTHWEST SHOPPING GUIDE


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Made of strong alu-
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light. It can be used
to "reach" for hard-
to-get rocks; rake the
ground; or as a non-
CAMPING TRAILER
"Instant" camping is provided
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camper. Tent sets up in one
hold out
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1+
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Manufactured by cots, camp kitchen, luggage. Cost is about c w-glass in place,
Estwing, famed mak- Comes in one-wheel and two- factory-tinted g t third of that for
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A d d r e s s all queries Desert Magazine New Products


560 N. Larchmont
regarding Southwest Shopping items to: Los Angeles 4, California

6 / Desert Magazine / January, 1961


J« V* fcARLf administrative officer, Parker-Davis Project*

Do-lt-Yourself Tours
AT PARKER AND DAVIS DAMS

r
NM5

ARKER AND DAVIS dams—unlike their "big broth- hind Parker Dam, and Lake Mohave behind Davis—
P er" upstream on the Colorado River, Hoover Dam— which provide some of the best fresh-water recreation in
are not "show dams." Hundreds of thousands of persons the nation. It was natural that these folks would be
visit Hoover every year, and uniformed guides are needed curious about the two facilities that back-up these large
to handle the crowds. But Parker and Davis are much bodies of water.
smaller than the spectacular concrete plug in Black Can- But years ago, when the Bureau of Reclamation was
yon, and they are off the beaten path of the "typical" planning these dams, no one anticipated this interest, and
tourist (although Parker and Davis are right in the middle no provision was made to let the taxpayers tour their
of heaven for the fisherman, boatman, water skier and dams. Needless to say, many disappointed persons were
desert back-country explorer). turned away.
In recent years more and more people have discovered All this was changed a few seasons ago when the dams
the beautiful blue lakes in mid-desert—Havasu Lake be- were thrown open to the public on a do-it-yourself basis.

*J. D. Earl was born in Bunkerville, Nevada, on A great deal of preparation went into this project, un-
a tributary of the Colorado River, and was raised der the general direction of Project Manager E. A. Ben-
on an irrigated farm. He has a degree in Busi- son, who first suggested the idea in the Bureau of Recla-
ness Administration from The George Washing- mation. Assistant Project Manager F. G. Scussel was
ton University, and is currently working toward a assigned the job of overall coordination, particularly with
Master's Degree in Public Administration at Ari- regard to the layout, and the electrical and mechanical
zona State University. His wife, Jeanne, is a controls necessary to safeguard both the public and pow-
native of Lakeside, Arizona, and they have four erplants.
children. Transmission Division Chief Otto Mangum was charged

January, 1961 / Desert Magazine / 7


3. There could be no measurable continuing expense
involved, so that no charge would have to be made to
those taking the tours.
and 4. The tours could be brief or extended, depending
upon the spectator. (Who hasn't lost patience on a guided
tour with the inquisitive amateur engineer who attempts
to rebuild the whole dam and powerplant every time the
guide asks: "Are there any questions?")
The actual physical work involved the preparation and
placing of directional signs both inside and outside the
powerplants; changing elevator controls to facilitate auto-
matic operation; the placement of barriers at points dan-
gerous to the public; and the installation of tape recorders
and loud speakers.
Otto Mangum and I went into seclusion to cut the tapes.
The play-back sounded beautiful in Phoenix, but at the
powerplants the roar of the generators and turbines made
mush out of my best modulated tones. After considerable
experimenting with amplifiers, loud-speakers and squawk
deadeners, visitors can now follow what I have to say
about the various powerplant operations. If a person
doesn't understand how the generators, turbines, rotors
and governors combine to produce power for an electric
light in some far distant city, they have but to give the re-
corder button another push to hear my voice repeat what
the electrical engineers told me to say. Frankly, I don't
understand all of it myself. Another good point: the tapes
shut-off automatically. There's no need to wait around
for the entire lecture, though all of them are very short.
Davis Dam is an earth- and rock-fill embankment with
a concrete spillway, intake structure and powerplant. It
was completed in 1950. The Davis Powerplant, with an
installed capacity of 225,000 kilowatts, generated its first
power early in 1951. Electrical energy goes to Southern
California, Arizona and southern Nevada.
To reach Davis from Southern California, drive east on
Highway 66 through Barstow and Amboy; or take High-
way 60-70 to Desert Center where an unnumbered high-
way takes-off northeast to Vidal Junction. Either route
will intersect Highway 95, which is followed north to a
point where Nevada Highway 77 heads east to Davis Dam.
The trip takes about five or six hours from the Los An-
geles metropolitan area. From Arizona take either High-
way 66 from Flagstaff, or 93 from Phoenix. Both will
pick-up Arizona Highway 68 at Kingman, which leads to
Davis Dam. It is a four or five hour drive from Phoenix
to Davis Dam.
Parker Dam, constructed by the Bureau of Reclamation
with obtaining and installing the necessary communica- with funds advanced by the Metropolitan Water District of
tions equipment so that a push-button tour could be de- Southern California, provides a forebay and desilting basin
veloped, for no Bureau of Reclamation personnel would for the District's Colorado River Aqueduct, which supplies
be available at either dam to accompany visitors, answer municipal and industrial water to the Los Angeles and
questions or make sure people emerged safely from the San Diego coastal areas. The dam is a concrete barrel
concrete caverns inside the powerplants. arch structure, completed in 1938. Its powerplant, with
an installed capacity of 120,000 kilowatts, first generated
I worked with Bill Williams of our Regional Office in power in 1942. Part of this energy is used for pumping
the writing of the necessary scripts for the automatic mag- water along the aqueduct.
netic repeating tape recordings that were installed at strate-
gic points along the tour routes. And our imaginative Parker Dam is more remote than Davis. From Califor-
draftsman, "Buz" Bacon, came up with schematic draw- nia you leave U.S. 95 at Vidal Junction, head east to Earp,
ings, cross sections and illustrated maps—all designed to and then north where an unnumbered road dead-ends at
make the tour educational as well as entertaining. Parker Dam. From Arizona a new partially-paved road
north from Parker parallels the Colorado River on the
In all this work, we were guided by four overriding con- Arizona side, and leads to Parker Dam. It takes between
siderations : four and five hours from metropolitan Los Angeles and
1. The tours had to be interesting. three to four hours from Phoenix to reach Parker Dam.
2. They could not interfere with the day-to-day oper- At both powerplants we have clean rest rooms, comfor-
ation and maintenance of the two dams and powerplants. table lounges and plenty of cool drinking water. Soda

8 / Desert Magazine / January, 1961


pop is available from machines—but no food or gasoline DAVIS DAM, LOOKING NORTH FROM THE NEVADA SIDE. CONCRETE
SPILLWAY AND DAVIS POWERPLANT ARE IN CENTER OF PHOTO.
are sold at the dams. If visitors are hungry, or need gas or
a bed, or want to fish or put a boat into the water, they turbines turn and generators spin and people flip on light
can be accommodated at nearby facilities. switches 365 days a year.
At Havasu Springs Resort on the Bill Williams arm of We're enthusiastic about the do-it-yourself tours. And
Havasu Lake is located a concessionaire under license to from the many favorable comments received, it is obvious
the Fish and Wildlife Service, v/hich administers all such that the public likes them too. Today powerplant per-
facilities on the lake as part of its responsibilities in con- sonnel can devote all of their time to the important business
nection with the Havasu Lake National Wildlife Refuge. of generating and transmitting power and energy through-
A concessionaire of the National Park Service, adminis- out the Southwest. At the same time visitors are able to
trator of facilities within the Lake Mead National Recrea- poke around in the dams and powerplants (so long as they
tion Area, is located at the Lake Mohave Resort on Kath- keep on the prescribed routes) without bothering us a bit.
erine Wash behind Davis Dam. The tours are becoming increasingly popular. Last
Easter week, some 3000 persons went through Parker
Both powerplants are open from 8 a.m. every day of Powerplant. In a period of five months, visitors from 33
the year. Someone is always there because water runs and states, eight foreign countries and four provinces of Canada
signed the register at Parker Dam. Quite a contrast to
THE DOWNSTREAM FACE OF PARKER DAM, AT RIGHT; PARKER a few years ago, when someone likened the two dams to
POWERPLANT, LEFT, IS ON CALIFORNIA SIDE OF THE RIVER "gray fortresses on the lower Colorado River." ///

January, 1961 / Desert Magazine / 9


lives; that one hat can be worn in
fun only at a sporty angle, and the
same hat, shaped a little differently,
can complement a square jaw and a
pair of deadly serious eyes.
Hats have saved lives; and hats have
triggered deaths. With joy, hats are
thrown into the air; upon challenge,
tossed into the ring.
The hat had a major role in the
building of the West, and the South-
west in particular. Both were created
by virile young-in-heart men and wo-
men (and young people are fond of
flaunting their personalities through
their headgear). The angle at which
a man wore his hat, or the shape of
that hat, could stir up an instant fight.
And the bolt of controlled lightning
a dark-eyed blonde, sitting demurely
on the seat of a covered wagon, could
pour on some young unsuspecting male
wayfarer from under the brim of a
pert (black) sunbonnet, was some-
thing to tell your grandchildren about!
Rationally, you would never expect
to see a college boy—who should be
wearing a beanie—stroll to his classes
in a homburg; or a statesman in
striped pants and a claw-hammer coat
wearing a turned-up floppy-brimmed
IKE EARS, the "beaver" you wear
L is an extension of your personality.
And because of this facet, no two
men or women ever crease or wear a
felt a la Errol Flynn just in from the
Australian Bush.
Frederick Remington depicted the
hat alike—or at least shouldn't. Spanish-American War and Western
soldier wearing a gray felt, crown
In the Southwest, the primary con- creased fore and aft, pinched a bit
sideration for wearing a hat was and in front, with both back and front
is to obtain shade or warmth. After brims turned up to a 45-degree angle.
this is achieved comes the instinctive This was authentic Western for al-
urge for variation and self-expression. most a century, with many civilians
We are all familiar with the clown- affecting the style.
ish hats worn at county fairs, or on
The hat type worn by mining and
New Year's Eve; the "cocky" hat pull-
civil engineers, geologists, mineralo-
ed down over one eye; the jaunty or
gists, surveyors and forest rangers
"sporty" hat worn on the back of the
seems to have originated with the
head; and the flamboyant adventurous
cavalry officer. General John J. Per-
hat turned up in front. But all these,
shing wore it in Mexico in 1916. It
wrapped in one, cannot approach the
has a fairly flat brim, comes in black,
midget-brim monstrosity that style-
pearl-gray or dark green, with a mod-
happy men are wearing today. How
erate four-dented crown.
the Shade of Bat Masterson must
wince! But even old Bat would be Younger men on the Western deserts
the first to admit that there are as and cow country wore, in general,
many hat shapes and styles extant as brims pulied down in front to shade
there are human personalities, and that their eyes from the brilliant light.
change in hat style is inevitable. Wm. F. "Buffalo Bill" Cody in his
Few give any great thought to the younger days wore a hat with the brim
extreme roles hats can play in people's up on front and a little to one side,

10 / Desert Magazine / January, 1961


held in place with a pinned ornament.
He changed styles as he grew older.
Many Southwestern hat types, espec-
ially those of the Navajos, had bands
of braided vari-colored horse hair
See Illustrations On Back Cover
with silver, beads, or polished tur-
quiose ornaments. The Navajo, in-
herently conservative and deeply re- could be sure of in the rich old days—
ligious, generally wear flat brims and no man or woman would ever think
undented crowns. of appearing in public without a hat!
Wyatt Earp wore a flat-topped "tele- Sporadic attempts have been made
scoped" "toughnut" type dark felt, to introduce "pith" helmets to the
with a fairly flat brim. This hat still Southwestern deserts, especially when
has a wide vogue over the desert and movies were made in such locales as
cow country, and dates back to long the rolling Algodones west of Yuma,
before the turn of the century. but somehow the style doesn't seem
Billy the Kid wore a characteristi- to catch on, probably not fitting the
cally nondescript black slouch felt, American personality. One thing that
pulled down in front, with a careless- does last though, is the "peaked" cap
ly pointed high crown. Dudes and of the rockhounds, which is comforta-
those who were inclined to be "tony" ble to wear in a car and in the field.
wore derbies or small felts, sometimes The vogue of the high crowned "ten
with the brims curled up all the way gallon" hat was ushered in by Tom
around, with uncreased crowns. Real Mix, Buck Jones, Hoot Gibson and
"dressers," even in the mining and other Western movie stars shortly after
cow towns, wore silky velours in the First World War. This hat had a
winter, and "sailor" straws in summer; wide low-curled taped brim, and was
women wore "sailor" or Leghorn generally worn turned down slightly in
straws, both held in place with long front. It came in many colors, includ-
hat pins with which, if needed, they ing snow-white.
could quickly trim a "badman" down
to size. None of the old timers ever wore
the brim of their hats rolled up on each
Like Will Rogers, Death Valley side as we see so much in evidence to-
Scotty wore a standard slouch type day at rodeos, and which, apparently,
Stetson pulled down in front. Many originated in recent years with the
Westerners habitually wore rattlesnake riders of the King Ranch in Texas. The
skins for hat bands. style is prevalent throughout the Pan
Hats can have a utilitarian use also, Handle of Texas and Oklahoma, and
as was illustrated by a story that went has been for some years. Go to any
the rounds in the early days about the roundup today, and you will observe
Arizona range rider who got a bullet headgear atop both male and female
through the crown of his hat in a as alike as the rows of peas in a pod.
saloon gun fight. Unconcerned at his A study of hundreds of hat pictures
own close call, he yelled at his op- of old-timers throughout the Southwest
ponent, "Now how am I a-goin' to showed but one (and a feminine one at
water my horse out in the sticks!" that) wearing this side-brim roll. This
Mexican vaqueros were addicted to one exception was Annie Oakley, "Lit-
wide-brimmed small-crowned sombre- tle Sure Shot" of the Buffalo Bill Wild
ros, with chin straps. The bigger the West Show in the 1890s. On her,
hat, the more shade for their noon with a little chin strap, it looked real
siestas. cute.
THE WAY BILLY THE KID-HAT AND ALL-REALLY
The Panama in all shapes came into Many present day movie and TV LOOKED. COPIED FROM OLD DAGUERREOTYPE.
general use about the first decade of stars affect the modern side roll style,
the present century. even when depicting Old West charac- can be carried to an extreme where it
Some men even today go so far as ters, in which, of course they are in becomes a caricature.
to wear a rainbow-colored feather un- error. They are as "out of character"
as their galluping horses are when pull- Yes, I think you will agree, hats do
der their hatbands, imitating in small make the man, as many old-timers
fashion the Indian's ornate headdress ing vehicles. (A galluping horse is a
run-away horse). Most of the old- learned the hard way to their great
—which, after all, is just a hat with a regret, trying to live up to the shape
lot of feathers stuck in it! timers spent quite a bit of their time
keeping their hat brims flat. Like the and angle they sometimes so innocent-
But be that as it may, one thing you "ten gallon" crown, the rolled effect ly chose. ///

'hat Won TheWest By HARRISON DOYLE


January, 1961 / Desert Magazine / 11
Desert Stream
A marvelous spring
above the ghost town of
Now You See I t . .. Now You Don't
Bumblebee, Arizona,
feeds the thirsty sands
of a desert wash
BY ELIZABETH RIGBY

his tent in an arroyo during the cloudburst season lest he


T HE DRY WASH—a wide streambed with not a drop
of water in sight—is a hallmark of American South-
west desert and semi-desert areas. Yet every desert
rat worth his alkali cocktail knows better than to pitch
be drowned by a flash flood in that same dry wash. He
knows also that if his canteen is empty he is likely to find
the wherewithal to quench his thirst by digging into the
floor of the wash where the sand shows signs of being
damp.
Plant roots know this secret too. That the water table
is frequently very close to the surface in a desert wash
is attested by the surprisingly lush growth of trees, shrubs
and other vegetation on its banks. It is not often, however,
that the phenomenon is as clearly demonstrated as it is
at Government Springs in the foothills of the ore-rich
Bradshaw Mountains near the ghost town of Bumblebee,
Arizona, some 60 miles north of Phoenix.
This remarkable spot (not to be confused with another
Government Springs farther north, near Prescott) is lo-
cated at the head of a small box canyon at an altitude of
2500 feet, and can be reached only by four-wheel-drive
vehicle, on horseback or afoot from the takeoff point,
which is 3Vi miles north of Bumblebee at the edge of the
graded dirt road between that settlement and the once-
active sheep-shipping center of Cordes.
On our last visit to Bumblebee we prevailed upon
Charles Penn, present owner of the town who moved from
the East Coast to find his destiny and happiness in a wild
Southwestern desert valley, to take us on a grand tour of
the history-haunted hills. It didn't take much prevailing,
since Charley likes nothing better than guiding interested
visitors through the rugged country he now calls home.
Government Springs is a must on his roster of places to
show visitors, and he had told us something of its story in
advance. Yet as it turned out he had withheld its most
startling feature for a bizarre grand finale.
It was a raw and windy day, and only the saguaros,
ocotillos, paloverdes and stunted mesquite which attempted
to obstruct our progress, suggested a desert climate—and
they were belied by the gray sky and the chill blow.
Charley knew all the roads, trails and burro paths—
and it seems he drove the four-wheel-drive vehicle over
considerable stretches of the latter. After we descended
a washed-out track winding down the steep flanks of a
deep gully, we hit the broad level bed of Government
Springs Wash which seemed a true King's Highway com-
pared to the high road.
We had had a comparatively wet rainy season for this
part of the world, yet the wash was bone dry As we
rounded the final turn I was completely unprepared for
the sight which greeted us—there, from an imposing wall
of granite, issued forth a tiny sinuous stream.
This was Charley's O'Henry punch line to the tour.
"The Springs," he announced succinctly. "As I've told
you, cavalry troops from Fort Whipple near Prescott
12 / Desert Magazine / January, 1961
camped here in the old days. Before them the Indians. (a glen high on the mountain above still bears the name
Now ranchers drive their cattle in here sometimes because Horse Thief Basin), for high-stepping horsemen of the
of the water, and because the critters can't go beyond the United States Cavalry on the trail of red warriors or side-
box. The Springs are in the public domain, though, as winding bandits alike—unless, of course, all should have
you'll see if you look for them on a map. Anyone's wel- happened on the refuge simultaneously.
come to come here. That is, if they can find the place." Then Charles Penn, who had implanted the seeds of
And Charley Penn chuckled with the gleeful triumph of such retrospective reverie in our minds, brought us back
the successful explorer. to the eternal verities. There were more springs, he told
Leaving the car at our guide's suggestion, we started us, around the corner on the far side of the granite wall,
clambering up the step-like boulders at the foot of the and so far as he knew they had never failed to flow copi-
granite wall. ously. This made it the more amazing that the snakelike
rivulet which owed its life to their bounty should, within
"Something up there might surprise you," Charley mur- a few hundred feet, vanish abruptly, swallowed up without
mured. a trace, by the thirsty sand.
It didn't take long to discover what he meant. Indians
had once used this place as a campground, no doubt of "Strange, isn't it?" said Charley. "But then that's the
that. We could see the smoke-blackened walls and roof way with many a desert stream. Now you see it, now you
of the natural rock enclosure where they had done their don't. Just another of nature's marvels."
cooking. More interesting yet were the shallow grinding The early history of these Yavapai County places is
pits, the metates, they had scraped out of the flat-surfaced written into their names. You need only know how to
granite. And when we leaned over the edge of the boulder decipher the code. In Territorial days it was customary
we found ourselves looking down on a deep limpid pool. to apply the word "Government" to any locality used by
Federal troops, and the use of the springs near Bumble-
It was the water from this spring-fed source which, bee by cavalry detachments sent out from Prescott to
spilling over the rim of its narrow stone basin, fed the protect miners, pioneer settlers and stagecoaches traveling
ephemeral little stream which had so astonished us upon the risky route from Prescott to Phoenix over the original
our arrival. Black Canyon Highway, is affirmed in an old manuscript
Charley scooped up a cupful for us to sample. It was discovered recently by Charley.
cold and delicious. According to this document the first known use of the
With its ample supply of pure water and its shielding Springs by the military was in 1863. In that year a group
rampart of rock, what a perfect hideout this spot must have of United States soldiers under a Colonel Powers was
made for Apaches avoiding white Americans, for prospect- stationed there on outpost duty against the Indians who
ors fleeing Apaches, for horse thieves in fear of the law lived in the valley; and until the redmen had finally been

Oldtimer Bill Black and


his horse Sugar
know all about
Government Springs.
Often, prospecting in the
hills, they've stopped
their thirst at the cool
pool at the head of the
disappearing stream.
Here Bill, looking north,
recalls an early
adventure for Charley
Penn's benefit. "Yes," he
says, "hadn't been for
those springs, we'd
like to've died that day,
hot as you know what.
But here we are.
Got a Coke in there at
the store?"

January, 1961 / Desert Magazine / 13


the southern Arizona mines, and was more easily pro-
tected against marauding Indians.
Yet Indians roamed Yavapai County in considerable
numbers, and Bumblebee Valley, because of its creek and
its springs of clear cool water, as well as because of its
mountain fastness, was one of their favored haunts. As
did Indians elsewhere the Yavapai Apaches resented the
coming of the miners and white settlers, and did what they
could to dissuade the freight and passenger coaches from
passing through their homeland.
The town of Bumblebee, once a bustling way-stop on
the only north-south route through this part of the state,
is now privately owned by the Penns. It has fewer than
20 inhabitants, most of them friends or relatives or em-
ployees of the Penns. It has a postoffice which serves a
wide surrounding area, in which live ranchers, miners and
prospectors. The store is operated (at a loss) by the
Penns for the accommodation of travelers and neighbors.
It is possible to buy the basic foods in limited amounts
(canned goods, bread, dairy products, some meat, soft
drinks and candy), but anyone planning an extended stay
in the area would be wise to stock-up ahead of time. Gas-
oline, oil and air for tires are available.
A visit to Bumblebee may be conveniently made by
anyone planning a trip to the recreational areas in the
Bradshaw Mountains beyond Crown King and Horse Thief
Basin. It is sometimes possible to rent one of the old
miner's cottages (which have been moderately modernized,
and are housekeeping units) at Bumblebee, but arrange-
ments for this should be made in advance. In the absence
of the Penns, or if none of the cottages are available (their
rental, like the store, is simply a matter of accommodation,
since the Penns are not in the motel business) camping
out is the order of the day. ///
o MAYER L PRESCOTT ToCAMPVERD£ E. FLAGSTAFF

Shallow grinding pits scraped out of granite show


Government Springs was once a favored Indian haunt

subdued, this place continued to serve as intermittent head-


quarters for the U.S. Cavalry.
It was in 1863, also, that a party of venturesome pros-
pectors attempted to rob a honey-filled beehive in the
cliffs above the creek which runs through the valley. In
normal bumblebee fashion, the bees objected; and the
badly stung prospectors magnanimously decided to mem-
orialize the occasion by naming the creek in honor of their
determined winged attackers.
As it happens, 1863 was a banner year in the history
of mining in Arizona's Yavapai County. It was in that
year that the fabulous strikes at Weaver Gulch, Antelope
Hill, Richmond Hill and Wickenburg were made. Three
years later, after visiting the region, the celebrated mineral-
ogist Hermann Ehrenberg wrote that the country contained
"a continuous range of gold-bearing rock . . . embracing
an area of at least 1000 square miles." And of one district
in the general vicinity of Bumblebee another early account
stated, "every hill is . . . mineral-bearing."
By 1876 the Bradshaw Mountains and Bumblebee Val-
ley were literally honeycombed with mines and with pros-
pectors' hopeful diggings, while mines throughout Yavapai
County as a whole, both gold and silver, were more num-
erous than in all other parts of Arizona Territory com-
bined. Richard J. Hinton, whose Handbook to Arizona
appeared in 1878, declared this was largely because the
region was not vulnerable to Mexican depredations as were

14 / Desert Magazine / January, 1961


A Desert Cabin
Called "Second Chance
By MARGARET ARENSBERG

spent in a dark attic. A handmade


T HE OLD MINE was abandoned
because it didn't pay off. Nestled
in the nearby rocks was an old
prospector's cabin that looked more
signer appeared in iron
the windows, and fancy
on corners of the house
ways. This was not the
trimming on
designs were
and on arch-
typical desert
wooden potato masher and butter pat-
ters, over a hundred years old, are
kitchen decorations. A stone fruit jar,
like a frontier jail than it did a home. miner's cabin. the kind used before glass jars were
It had iron bars on its narrow win- invented is now a prized flower vase.
dows and big locks on its two iron First thing my husband did was to The vinegar jug of the past, a candle-
doors. But, to our city-weary eyes, cut and clear away the undergrowth holder, a coffee grinder and iron tea
these 40 acres in the dry hills of east- that swarmed around the cabin. This kettle have been restored to usefulness.
ern San Diego County, California, was our "fire insurance policy." Next
were a dream come true. We bought he repaired the mile of dirt road that The point is this: the cabin has
the property for a vacation home. led from the paved highway to our character. Our desert home exudes
place. I took over the task of making desert atmosphere.
The house was built of rocks and the cabin clean and livable. This was
cement. It had but two small rooms, This is Indian country. The tribes-
the only time I was glad the place was men here believed that a person re-
a porch to protect and give dignity to so small.
the front doorway, a tiny entrance hall turning to his wickiup would have good
and a big fireplace of red brick. The For furnishings I resorted to pieces luck if he brought something in hand
iron doors were thick and heavy, dec- unwanted by other people — an old to enhance the premises. For that
orated with elaborate hand-wrought office desk cut in half served as a table, reason, each guest who wanders over
iron hinges. Each door had two trick a camp butane stove became my kit- Second Chance's desert grounds is en-
locks, and the windows had one-inch chen, and an old ice box kept food couraged to return to the cabin with
iron bars sunk into six-inch cement safe from rodents (although it didn't a rock—small or large—for my friend-
walls. The kitchen windows were do much to keep it cold). I painted ship wall. The rock fence grows longer
boarded over, closing out a distant the inside walls a cheery yellow, and and higher each year—and each rock
view of Palomar Mountain. Holders my discarded blue checked gingham in it brings to mind a friend or a happy
for guns, a niche for a bootjack, and house-coat was converted into ruffled incident.
corner shelves for lantern and crucibles curtains and cushion covers. For foot
stools I used a pair of wooden buckets But, life in this yucca-studded land
made up the cabin's "furnishings." is not all peaceful and serene. We
rescued from a painter.
The old prospector who built this have had our thrills and dangerous
home must have been afraid of both It seemed significant to us that these experiences. Once a glass of cold
the elements and chance passersby. We old discarded furnishings were being water saved my husband from being
learned later that he was an elderly given a second chance to be useful— crushed to death. He was digging for
Swiss gentleman, a lace designer and a "place in the sun." The old cabin water and had climbed out of the well
world traveler who turned to prospect- itself was receiving its second chance, for a drink. No sooner was he out of
ing and mining in his old age. The too. It was a natural. We named our the hole when a boulder caved in our
house expressed qualities of his per- desert place, "Second Chance." precious spring. A heavy downpour
sonality — the touch of the lace de- of rain—three inches in an hour—sent
The years have brought many a wild thundering wall of water down
changes to Second Chance. The or- a nearby "dry" wash, tumbling bould-
iginal 40 acres of canyons and hill- ers over young trees, washing out
sides have been increased to 120. We bridges and road, breaking water pipe.
added three rooms and a bath, cement A big night-prowling cat left his five-
patios for outdoor living. Knotty pine inch paw track by the bird bath.
walls left in natural tones are a con-
genial background for the second-hand The evening silence brings a special
furnishings. The marble top from a peace of mind that is good for city
bureau of Gay '90s vintage has a sec- nerves which have been under tension
ond chance to show its beauty as a and pressure. No tranquilizer pills are
desk top. An old clock now chimes needed after working all day as a
away in a pleasant homey manner, plumber's helper or a very amateurish
glad again to show its face after years stone mason. ///

January, 1961 / Desert Magazine / 15


4


M
ftr-«

THE CAHUILLA VALLEY NEAR ANZA. INSERT: GEN. DAVID BARROWS.

The story of a
distinguished man and his
life-long interest
in a band of

Frienc
native Southern Californians

By NINA PAUL SHUMWAY

OF THE CAHUILLA
16 / Desert Magazine / January, 1961
CAREER of the distinguished scholar, educator This lad, described in General Barrows' memoirs as "a
and military authority, the late General David Pres- beautiful boy," they found to be not only an excellent guide
cott Barrows, was a sequence of exciting and illustri- but a young man of fine character. Martin's qualities so
ous chapters. But when I knew him, during the closing appealed to the esteem and affection of Anna and David
years of his long and notable earth-span, his liveliest interest Barrows that when asked by his family to take the lad
still centered around his friendship with the Cahuilla Indi- back with them, that he might gain more education than
ans. The remarkable adaptation to a hostile environment was provided by the little Indian school of the district, they
of desert and semi-arid mountains by these people had in- gladly consented.
spired General Barrows' early study, The Ethno-Botany Thereafter the young Cahuilla became a loved member
of the Cahuilla Indians of Southern California, published of the Barrows household. He remained with them several
in 1900, the first authoritative study of the Cahuillas and
years, first in Claremont, then in San Diego where Dr.
still the definitive work in its field.
Barrows was professor of history at San Diego State Teach-
His acquaintance with the Cahuillas began in 1891 at ers College.
Paui—a little Indian settlement near a warm spring in Meantime, scholarly interests had not superceded the
Cahuilla Valley not far from the present site of Anza cherished project of a trip to the rancherias of the Desert
through which the motorist now passes as he drives over Cahuillas. In August, 1897, while vacationing in Cahuilla
the paved link between the Palms-to-Pines highway (state Valley, Dr. Barrows learned that an acquaintance, Celes-
74) and the coast. tino Torte, who lived in old Santa Rosa village, had been
On that long-ago August day, some 275 Cahuillas and over the trail earlier that summer.
as many Indians from neighboring tribes had gathered to Dr. Barrows went at once to see him and they discussed
celebrate the annual fiesta of San Luis Rey. Among the the matter for some time. Finally, Celestino agreed to
natives were a few white settlers—all wearing guns on their provide horses that "savvied" the desert, and to guide the
hips. expedition.
About mid-afternoon David Barrows, a tall youth of Next day the two men met at the foot of Torres Moun-
17 and one of the first two students to enroll at newly tain, and their adventure began. As if in salute, a summer
founded Pomona College, arrived driving a team of fine thunderstorm sent out crashing volleys as it broke on the
horses to a light Concord wagon. With him was Frank peak high above them. But no rain fell on the lower slopes.
Brackett, a professor at Pomona. Having learned through
the grapevine of the fiesta, the two had driven over from The black broncos Celestino furnished were small and
their summer camp at Strawberry Valley (subsequently tough—desert-wise and inured to the hardships of the trail.
named Idyllwild) to gain first-hand knowledge of what Their ridgepole backs were scarred by many a saddle gall;
promised to be an interesting and novel event. their unshod hoofs were hard as flint.
The route they followed across Pinyon Flat from Van-
The center of festivities was a grassy swale where booths
deventer Flat and thence down the steep and rocky eastern
and a large ramada of poles covered with leafy branches
face of the Santa Rosa Mountains below Asbestos Peak,
had been built near the hot spring. In some of the booths
was not actually a peet (trail), but simply a tortuous way
meals were served at 25c a plate, and these rustic cafes
through rocks and gulches.
were popular with both Indians and whites. After pitching
camp nearby, the newcomers mingled with the crowd, As they went they botanized, Celestino discovering
young Barrows raptly absorbing every detail of the native every few rods a specimen of fresh interest, the native uses
games and sports which made up the afternoon's entertain- of which he described.
ment. Toward sundown they crossed Pinyon Flat and camped
At night came the big campfire, the tribal songs and that first night above a gorge which held a spring. Here
dances—the Whirling Eagle dance, the Fire dance, the on the mountainside had been a Cahuilla village called
War dance, He-no-tera-toma and others—in some of which Ku-a-le-ke, occupied, Celestino explained, in the days when
David took part with enthusiasm. the Cahuillas were a strong people. Now their numbers
The interest of the lad who entered so zestfully into were diminishing, the old trails had grown dim with disuse,
the celebration that August night must have been com- and a few grinding holes and cooking stones were all that
pletely captured by his initial experience, for in the follow- was left of the village.
ing years he came back again and again to camp among At dawn the two men were mounted and on their way.
the Cahuillas, observe their way of life, learn many words An hour's ride brought them within full view of Cabezon
of their language, widen his acquaintance and make new (Coachella) Valley. From their perch on Cawish Wa-wat-
friends. Foremost among the latter were members of the acha (Mighty Mountains) Celestino pointed out on the
Costo family—Juan Maria, the eldest, Gabriel, Ignacio, opposite range the Cawish Po-po-hu-ut (Mountains of Tule
Isidore and Martin; also a daughter, Rosa. and Mesquite Bushes—today known as the Little San
Bernardinos), hunting terrain of the Chemehuevi Indians
In 1895, after graduating from college, he brought his
bride, Anna, into the Indian country on their honeymoon Nina Paul Shumway of Palm Desert (in winter) and
journey. For six weeks they camped at various Indian "The Tors," her mountain homestead (in summer), is a
rancherias. Then as the time for the annual fiesta of San member of a prominent pioneer family who came to the
Luis Rey approached, they drove to Cahuilla to witness the Coachella Valley of California in 1909. In 1925, follow-
event and enjoy a visit with their friends there. ing a seven-year absence from the desert, she gave up a
secretarial position at Stanford University and returned
During their stay they tried to promote a horseback to the Valley to devote herself to writing. After several
trip to the Cabezon (now Coachella) Valley—home of modestly successful years in her chosen field, her father's
death left a date garden and mail-order business which
the Desert Cahuillas; but none of the mountain Indians required most of her energies. But, early readers of
was willing to take a white woman on such a hazardous Desert Magazine may remember her occasional contribu-
journey. The newlyweds had to be content with the trails tions to these pages. Her book, "Your Desert and Mine,"
of Santa Rosa Mountain and Torres (Toro) Peak. Over the revealing first-person account of the victorious struggle
these primitive routes they were guided by the youngest which made a blazing wilderness one of the richest valleys
in the world, recently was published. ($6.75, Desert
of the Costo brothers, Martin. Magazine Book Store).

January, 1961 / Desert Magazine / 17


FRANCISCO NOMBRE, A DESERT CAHUILLA

] OLD PHOTO SHOWS A CAHUILLA WOMAN, CINCIONA


LUBO, DISPLAYING ACORNS GATHERED IN MOUNTAINS

from the Colorado River, friends of the Cahuillas who for all this plentiful supply of provender, the Indians'
came to the range for mountain sheep. livestock was in sorry straits. A long period of drouth was
Far below lay the blazing expanse of the desert floor, drying up wells and waterholes. Four horses died at Mar-
its quivering gray barrenness broken only by dark splashes tinez the day the travelers arrived, and the previous day
of distant mesquite clumps. A few of these marked the five head of cattle had perished of thirst.
sites of Indian villages—Indio, Cabezon, La Mesa, Torres, The prolonged drouth meant trouble for Barrows and
Augustine, Martinez and other habitations still more dis- Celestino, too. They suffered from thirst as they painfully
tant. worked their way back across the last stretch of desert and
By the middle of the afternoon they were on the desert up the rocky flanks of the "Mighty Mountains." By dark
and pushing forward with all the strength under the scarred they were exhausted and still half a day's ride from water.
hides of their tough little broncos. After crossing the wide
outwash apron of what is now called Deep Canyon, the Remembering the thunderstorm which had broken above
present site of Palm Desert, they camped for the night at them the day of their start, Celestino, wise in these matters,
Indian Wells where there remained of the deserted ran- explored a ravine, found a damp spot, and dug. Into the
cheria only a few blackened posts and one of the Cahuilla's small pits a little water slowly seeped. Beside these tiny
unique walk-down wells. pools they made their camp and that night they ate almost
Concerning these wells, Dr. Barrows wrote in his Ethno- the last of their provisions.
Botany: "The Cahuillas call these wells temal-ka-wo-mal- But, the only real misfortune suffered on the trip
em, a pretty figure. Ka-wo-mal is the word for a tinaja occurred the next day. Celestino's horse had developed
or water olla, and temal is the word for the earth or ground. a cruel saddle gall. Its master bathed and rubbed the sore,
There is no question but that the Cahuillas learned of hunted strange plants and applied native remedies includ-
themselves to dig these wells, and this practice cannot ing a poultice of pounded datura leaves, known to be
perhaps be paralleled elsewhere among American Indians." strong medicine. But nothing availed. By noon the poor
During their stay on the desert floor, the travelers beast was in a terrible plight, his withers swollen as large
crossed the valley twice, visiting all but the two farthest as a man's head.
rancherias—Agua Dulce and Alamo. The crop of mesquite At the foot of Torres trail Celestino stopped. Fearing
beans had been unusually abundant that year and the his horse would die, he decided not to go on to Cahuilla
women in all the villages were busy gathering, grinding but to head directly for Santa Rosa village. So there
and storing in huge basket granaries the rich harvest which where the journey had begun, the two men said good-by
furnished a large part of the food of the Desert Cahuilla. —never to meet again. The demands for his remarkable
In every home by day and far into the night could be abilities in many wide-flung fields of service, soon separated
heard the thump of stone pestles in the wooden mortars Dr. Barrows from his Cahuilla friends and except for a
as the dried beans were being pounded into flour. brief visit when he took young Martin Costo to Cahuilla
The beans were also an excellent livestock food. Yet Valley so the boy could see his mother before leaving for

18 / Desert Magazine / January, 1961


Pennsylvania to attend Carlisle Indian School, Barrows became friends and because of my own eager interest in
did not visit the Cahuillas again for more than 50 years. the Cahuillas, the General indulged freely in his favorite
Beginning with his appointment in 1900 to serve as a topic of which he and I never tired. Traveling in my station
member of the Taft Philippine Commission to reorganize wagon, the three of us searched for new acquaintances
government in those islands, Barrows achieved honors in among the few remaining Cahuillas on the local reserva-
many fields—educational, governmental, military. Chief tions. It was my privilege to provide transportation for a
of the Bureau of Non-Christian Tribes, director of Educa- visit to Juan Maria's home and observe another meeting
tion in the Phili ••ines, acting President of the University of the two men who, each in his own way, exemplified all
of California, member of the Hoover Relief Commission that was finest in his race.
in Belgium, Major of Cavalry in the National Army, aide
to the Commanding General in Manila on an inspection Unfortunately, Juan Maria had recently suffered a fall
trip of the Archipelago, emissary on a military mission which left him physically disabled. But his mind was still,
to Siberia, President of the University of California for keen and his eyes lighted at sight of the General. Juan
four years, Professor in the Department of Political Science Maria insisted upon sitting up while they talked, and to
at Berkeley, lecturer in South America in behalf of the avoid overtiring him we were careful not to stay too long.
Carnegie Endowment, Theodore Roosevelt professor at the Afterward, provided by Nattie with a key to the gate
University of Berlin, organizer of the National Guard in of the cemetery, we wandered in the sunshine among the
Nevada, Utah and California, "Major-General commanding graves of the Costos, the Lugos, the Lubos and many others
California's 40th Division—these were some of the activi- once familiar to the General. Ramona's grave was there,
ties that, with travel in many lands, occupied him for half too. Like the others, it was bright with planted narcissus
a century. and wild poppies.
Then, in 1949, when he and Eva, wife of his second The General stopped at the warm pool of the spring
marriage (Anna had died in 1936), were living in Berke- below the hill to talk to a Cahuilla woman who stood
ley, there came a telephone call that put him in touch knee-deep in the water, washing clothes. Startled by our
again with the Cahuillas. Guadalupe Costo, daughter of presence an owl flew out of the bell tower of the deserted
his old friend, Juan Maria, had discovered the whereabouts schoolhouse, successor to the one in which Martin Costo
of the man of whom her father so often talked with deep had learned to read.
admiration and affection. To his joy, the General learned
that Juan Maria still lived. Martin, "the beautiful boy" who had been like a son to
Barrows, lay under the poppies beside his people. Follow-
Now advanced in years, Barrows was on the point of ing his graduation from Carlisle he had entered the Navy.
retiring from the more pressing duties of his busy life, During the first World War he was killed in an accident
and as soon as he was able to make the trip, he headed aboard the battleship Utah.
for Cahuilla Valley, eager to renew the old friendship
with Juan Maria. Nearby was the little Catholic church of which Juan
Maria, whatever his native beliefs may have been, had
In the valley the small groups of thatched jacales were become a member. In the near distance rose the bald
gone, as were most of the people who had lived in them. granite face of Cahuilla Mountain and along the far skyline
Many slept in the little cemetery on the hill. Indeed, only stretched snow-capped peaks. The nearby slopes were
a few families remained. dazzling green, starred with wildflowers. Was the General
The Costos lived in a neat frame cottage across the seeing all this, I wondered, or was he seeing again the
road from the cemetery. A knock brought Nattie, the lively scene of long ago at the fiesta of San Luis Rey?
Costo daughter who kept house for her father, to the door. It was doubly fortunate that he and Juan Maria had
Then Juan Maria came out into the sunlight and the two their meeting that year, for by the following winter when
old friends who had not met for more than 50 years were the Barrowses again came south, the Indian patriarch was
gripping hands. gone. He died in August, 1952, at the age of 107. His
Though no longer "strong as a derrick"—a reputation body was laid to rest with those of his family who had
he had gained in earlier years, Juan Maria, great grandson preceded him, in the little cemetery on the hill.
of the famous Cahuilla chief, Juan Antonio, was at 104 We went again the next spring to see Nattie. But Juan
still vigorous physically, and mentally alert. Only during Maria's absence left a painful gap. Standing on the Costos'
the past five years had he ceased doing all work around the porch, the General looked down at the grassy swale below
place, and up to two years before had continued to ride the house.
horseback.
"There," he mused aloud in a tone nostalgic with
Most of his long life had been spent in the Mighty memory, "is where they had the booths and ramada and
Mountains where he had acted as a leader among his the ceremonial dances that night. Nattie tells me it no
people. He could still recall the day when as a child he longer belongs to her people. How changed—how changed
had seen the Mormons in their high-wheeled wagons arrive it all is!"
at the present site of San Bernardino. And once he had
journeyed far from home. In 1906 he had gone to Wash- In my treasured copy of the General's privately printed
ington to plead with the lawmakers in an attempt to secure memoirs are these revealing lines: "I dwell on the hope
the rights of his tribesmen to the land their forefathers that I can still, at the age of 80, make a successful trip with
had possessed for untold centuries before the arrival of horses and pack animal with my Cahuilla friend, Domingo
the white man. His mission was hardly successful; but Costo, into the complex of the Santa Rosa Mountains. I
he did obtain something. Legislation was enacted giving long to re-experience the good rides in rough country, the
the Indians title to the homesites they then occupied. finding of water and good feed for my horses, the camp-
fire with coffee pot and frying pan, and blessed nights on
As long as time permitted, Juan Maria and the Gen- the ground happily disturbed by the contented champing of
eral talked together in Spanish, renewing old memories and my horses. This is the way I want my life to come to its
catching up on the years of separation. maturity—sitting with a Cahuilla friend in the long evenings
After an interlude of travel, Eva and the General re- and listening to his accounts of the history of his spirited
turned to the desert the following winter. At this time we people." ///

January, 1961 / Desert Magazine / 19


Reclamation: A STRIP OF low-lying desert,
here wider, there narrower, bor-
dered the sea. The wasteland
lifted gently to the base of formidable
steeply-eroded dry mountains. Broad
fanning outfall cones spread at the
mouth of nameless canyons gave mute
evidence that rain, when it did come,
might be more terrible in its torrential
behavior than the usual drouth.

Flying along the edge of the Per-


sian Gulf, this panorama spread be-
hind the wing of the DC-3, and I
thought of the startling statement
someone once made to me that more
people had lost their lives by being
drowned in the flash floods that pour
down the waddis, than have died of
thirst on the sands of the Sahara Des-
ert. It hardly seemed possible that
this could be true, yet there was the
frightening evidence of the catastro-
phic storm nearly 35 years ago in
Mountain Springs Canyon on our own
California desert. I had seen how
the seething waters of this flood had
rolled boulders as big as boxcars
water like dice, and thrown them out toward
Coyote Wells.

In these piles of debris poured out


of the arroyos of this Iranian moun-
from tain range, again could be read the
story. A man might pray a lifetime
for water at the lower edge of such a
talus slope, and meet his death as a
the consequence of the storm that finally
came.
"But people live even here." I
had noted a few utterly desolate ap-
sea pearing mud houses huddled beside
the shore.
"Oh, yes," my Iranian friend
answered. "People live here, but
theirs is a difficult lot, and they are
poor. There is so little water."
I saw round patches of green a few
yards across sparsely dotting a plain.
AERIAL VIEW OF SUNKEN GARDENS My curiosity was aroused.
We landed soon at Bushire, a place
without natural endowment. It was
an old seaport. A road, in recent
years little used, lead from Bushire to
Shiraz and Teheran. It once was a
busy caravan route, but had been re-
By placed by the railroad at Khoramshar
farther west. A few leaky hulks
WILLIAM E. WAME stood at the quay. Brackish water
was hauled in goatskin jugs by wagons
During the past months six articles have been writ- from a stream six miles away, and sold
ten for this publication by William E. Warne based by the cupful on the streets. There
on his experiences in Iran {where he served in the was no piped supply in the town.
early 1950s as administrator of our Point Four pro- Temperatures stood at stifling levels,
gram). The article on these pages concludes his Iran- worse than anything I experienced on
ian series, and the subject—water from the sea—is the Amazon, or in Maylayan jungles.
an appropriate one, for on January 2, Warne. took
office as California's Director of Water Resources. As we walked to the shade of the

20 / Desert Magazine / January, 1961


shack at the edge of the airstrip, I and impounds enough water for bands the United States in 1952 were, re-
asked my friend about the tiny green of sheep. I have seen some with spectively, 38 and 12 cents per thou-
spots in the desert that I had seen capacities of hundreds of thousands sand gallons. This indicates the
from the air. of gallons. These have made it feasi- economic gap still to be closed.
ble to use wide areas that produce
"This evening, when it is cooler," grasses but have no other impounded Distillation processes, such as that
he promised, "we will go see some." or flowing waters. at Aruba and a large multi-flash sea
water evaporation plant in Kuwait,
We were caught up in the official use solar or non-solar heat resources.
Nowhere in the world, in all proba-
welcome just then, and I learned no
more about the matter until, in the bility, is there greater need to obtain Other processes are: The electric
late afternoon, the whole party en- fresh water from the sea than the membrane demineralization, u s i n g
tered four-wheel-drive vehicles and we south shore of Iran. electrodialysis; freezing; solvent ex-
went bouncing off into the desert. traction and ion exchange. An elec-
In thriving burgeoning America, trodialysis plant has been constructed
We found one of the green spots populations have been established in at Coalinga, California, to treat 28,000
not far off the road a few miles east some areas where deficiencies in water gallons a day of brackish well water.
of town. It was a sunken garden—a supply have developed—and these The treatment costs $1.10 per thou-
huge steepsided hole in the ground regions are not all in the Desert South-
sand gallons, which is cheaper than
with grapevines and fruit trees growing west. Looking ahead, water experts
for years have foreseen increasing hauling the water by rail from the
bouquet like in its bottom. The lip nearest good well, but hardly a bar-
was ringed with a stone wall piled water needs and diminishing water
supplies presenting problems wide- gain for most purposes and most
high with dry thorny bush to provide
a barrier to man and beast. I could spread. In America, there is usually situations. The freezing process seems
not find a way through this barricade, somebody who will try to do some- to have greater theoretical possibilities,
and could only guess that the owner thing constructive about such a prob- but in experiments so far it works
had arranged so that a branch some- lem. best on low concentrations of salt.
where in the circle could be lifted to
form a gate. In 1950 the United States Depart- While reclamation of water from
ment of Interior, which has the Geo- the sea is still in the experimental
The water table has lowered grad- logical Survey and the Bureau of Rec- stage, it nevertheless is possible to list
ually through the centuries, and the lamation among its family of agencies, more than a score of plants widely
farmers, simply lowered their farms by began to stir with the awakening real- scattered in the world which are suc-
digging off enough of the surface so ization that one day the United States cessfully producing potable water.
that deep roots could still reach mois- would need water from the sea.
ture and shallow wells would yield In the United States, where waters
bucketsful. In the course of time, they The Navy Department had demon- are plentiful but poorly distributed,
found themselves farming the bottoms strated during the second World War there is apt to be a long wait before
of great pits. Similar "farms" along the that waterless islands could be used water from the sea will become a prac-
Red Sea in Saudi Arabia are said to by providing fresh water through dis- tical substitute for diversions for ir-
be so deep that date palms barely tilling the salt water from the ocean. rigation and most other uses. Water
reach the surface of the surrounding This invention was more or less a from other natural sources conserved,
terrain. daughter of necessity, and costs were stored, and transported by canals and
not considered a deterrent. The idea, aqueducts in most circumstances
I had witnessed other desperate however, gave useful stimulation to should be cheaper to provide, until the
measures taken by the people along the longer range planning of the re- sea water research has been carried
the Persian Gulf and the Gulf of source department. much farther.
Oman to maintain a precarious foot-
hold on the inhospitable shore. At Goodrich W. Lineweaver of the If, however, a deeply felt need ex-
Bandar Abass great hive-like domes Bureau of Reclamation developed a isted, few experts doubt that it would
covered cisterns. The surface waters modest program of research and ex- take America long to devise and de-
were led by a wide system of low perimentation which was authorized velop ways and means of utilizing the
dikes and ditches to them on those by the Congress in the summer of sea as a source of potable water.
few occasions in a year when rain did 1952. Since then, five different Most of us now take it for granted
fall. Since the water had to be held methods have been evolved and more that we will do so in only a matter of
for virtually the whole year, these than $10,000,000 made available to time.
community cisterns presented contam- establish pilot plants.
Unfortunately, along the shore of
ination threats and grave health haz-
Sadly, no breakthrough to new the Persian Gulf where need for water
ards. But they permitted life to go
technical vistas can be reported. In is urgently felt, there are no alterna-
on.
March, 1960, the Select Committee on tive sources of water, and the skills
In California, using the same tech- National Water Resources of the are presently lacking to resolve the
nique, the Fish and Game Department United States Senate published a problem by freshening sea water. Yet,
has constructed gallinaceous guzzlers pamphlet on "Present and Prospective nearby are the greatest proved oil re-
for quail and other small game and Means for Improved Re-use of serves in the world, and natural gas in
wildlife on otherwise waterless ranges. Water." One of the outstanding in- unimagined abundance. Since energy
They hold only a few barrelsful of stallations reported by the committee, is a prime consideration in the pro-
rainwater, but it is enough to make a that at Aruba in the Netherland An- cesses now being tried, and Iran has
life or death difference to little wild tilles, produces 2.7 million gallons a energy in excess, perhaps this dismal
creatures. day along with process steam and shore after all could become the prov-
electric power at a cost of $1.75 per ing ground for a new form of recla-
In Jordan, the guzzler, on a much thousand gallons. The maximum cost mation—irrigation with water made
bigger scale, is called a Roman Tank, for municipal and irrigation waters in fresh from the sea. ///

January, 1961 / Desert Magazine / 21


Science Gains A
Beachhead
In Baja California
By JOHN W. HILTON
energy of the expedition members.
T HEY MIGHT have called it the
"Baja California Field Station of
the San Diego Museum of Nat-
ural History;" or the "Gulf of Lower
in the laboratory and the field to add
to the store of knowledge offered to
the public.
And when these investigators reached
an area where they wished to study
and collect, they were faced with the
The San Diego Museum of Natural
California Field Station;" or, for that History is fortunate in the fact that down-to-earth problem of housing
matter, any one of half a dozen names. one of the world's largest zoos is liter- their equipment, collections, and
But my friend George Lindsay, di- ally "next door" in the same Balboa selves; plus considerations such as
rector of the San Diego Museum of Park, and that full cooperation be- food, water, gasoline, boats, dependa-
Natural History, is a man with a flair tween the two institutions has existed ble plane service, and radio commun-
for words. He called it "The Ver- for many years. Likewise, the Scripps ication by overseas telephone.
milion Sea Field Station." Institute of Oceanography in nearby Bahia de los Angeles on the gulf-
Dr. Lindsay believes that science La Jolla is in constant touch and active side of Baja California has become,
should be interesting to more people cooperation. more or less by common consent, the
than it is. He believes that the func- These three institutions and many center of such scientific activities for
tion of a museum is to bridge the gap others have from time to time sponsor- two main reasons: some of the above-
between the specialized scientist and ed extensive field trips into the wilds mentioned basic needs are reasonably
the layman. It should be a living of Baja California. Almost every provided for here; and the bay is
window on science where anyone can Baja-bent scientist whom I have talk- centrally located in the area in most
stop for minutes or hours to enjoy ed to has expressed the feeling that need of study.
and learn at the same time. there is too much country and too It was only natural that this place
Just as he believes the function of little time. In the old days the body- should be chosen as a permanent field
the museum is to be of service to the and nerve-wracking ordeal of making station by the San Diego Museum of
public; he holds that the museum's the land trip over the alleged "road to Natural History. The building they
staff should be constantly researching La Paz" took up most of the time and chose to house the station was a

CHRIS PARRISH, 17-YEAR-OLD JUNIOR NATURAL-


IST, INTERVIEWS A YOUNG OSPREY. NEST WAS
FOUND ON AN ISLET IN BAHIA DE LOS ANGELES.
THE VERMILION SEA FIELD STATION IS A LARGE AD,.,
QBE BUILDING LOCATED ON THE SHORE OFJHE BAY,

'Hrr

"natural," too. It has nine spacious starry nights on the great slab of east, and the strange blue triangular
rooms. It is right on the shore, just cement that served as a porch and shadow slowly creeping up the side of
south of the main settlement. And, sometimes a sea wall, listening to the Sierra de las Animas. Then it was
Dest of all, it was available! gentle laughter of the little waves on that we sat and watched the wheeling
the rocks below, or the gusty sighing terns diving for small fish in our
Here is where this report takes on of a whale just off shore, or the brag- front yard, and the great black fork-
a "this is where I came in" aspect. ging of a coyote who had found an
The building is best known to most tailed frigate birds hovering high,
extra fine morsel in our trash pile. waiting for a fish to drop, then swoop-
old Baja hands as the "Walker house"
or the "Mining house." Here it was We shall always remember those ing down with incredible speed and
that I met the promoter, Mr. Walker, breathless mornings when we rose as snatching it without getting wet. We
on my first trip with C. E. Utt. Here the first gold threw Angel de la Guar- used to call it our TV program.
it was that I heard the first real tall da Island into silhouette, and brewed
tales of the peninsula by Walker, Utt, a hasty pot of coffee, got fishing things I could go on about the warm nights
and Dick Daggett (the latter was born together, or made ready for a shell when phosphorescence (more correctly
at the nearby mining town of Las hunting trip at ebb tide. How it all bioluminescence) filled the sea like a
Flores). And here is was—much later comes back—the excitement of the great bowl of living fire, and each
—that I took my wife, Barbara, our children—the breathless promise of moving thing left a trail like the milky
daughter Sharon, and our son Bill to new adventure, the feeling of great way. Or catching fish and even three-
spend three fun and work-filled sum- discoveries just around the corner. foot sharks right off the porch. Or
mers. the day Barbara speared a two-foot
Then there were the sunsets while red squid right in front of the house,
To Barbara and me that old ram- we sat on the porch dining on fish or and then spent hours with the Fish-
shackle building will always be "our clams or sea turtle or other bounty of erman's Wharf Cook Book learning
house," no matter who owns it or the Vermilion Sea. We used to watch how to prepare it. These are the
lives in it. We shall never forget the the rose light kindle the islands to the treasurers no one can steal; they are
only brightened by the sharing. May
the new occupants have as much
pleasure and work and learning as we
RICHARD LEE, A SAN DIEGO STATE COLLEGE had under that leaky roof (now re-
BIOLOGY STUDENT, HOLDS A CHUCKAWALLA
LIZARD FROM ANGEL DE LA GUARDA ISLAND paired) and on that porch where
desert and sea merge into a single
entity along with yesterday, now, and
forever.
The Vermilion Sea Field Station is
no longer just a dream, but to those
lucky ones who use it I am certain
it shall become a precious memory
that shall never fade.
All legal details have been cleared
with the Mexican Government, and
permits granted by the Secretaria de
Agricultura y Ganaderia as well as the
other agencies concerned. Some spec-
imens already collected by San Diego
field investigators at the station are
at the University of Mexico, showing
the international aspect of this project.
The National Science Foundation
has granted a substantial sum to fur-
nish, repair, and maintain the station
24 / Desert Magazine / January, 1961
' • •

for the next three years. Equipment


includes a four-wheel-drive vehicle to
take scientists and students to outly-
ing areas of the desert, a boat to take
them to islands and beaches not acces-
sible by land travel, and two-way
radios. A list of equipment copied
from the original budget provides a
rough idea of what will be going on:
"gasoline driven pump for salt water
system, float for pump, plastic hose
to building, water tables, aquaria and
salt water plumbing, fish traps, mam-
mal traps, plant presses and driers,
preservatives, etc., also camping and
packing equipment for land work, tent,
stove, pack boxes, gasoline, lanterns,
sleeping bags, canteens, etc."
The request for the grant reads:
"The station will be extensively used
by personnel from the museum en-
gaged in collecting activities and field
studies as a part of a biological survey
project of Central Baja California."
The station will be used by the
members of the San Diego Society of
Natural History and the museum staff:
Dr. Lindsay, the director; Ed N. Har-
rison, interested in birds of the area;
Dr. Carl L. Hubbs, expert on whales
and fishes; Dr. Gifford C. Ewing, who
flies his own sea plane and studies
physical oceanography, ecology of la-
goons, whales and natural history in
general; Dr. Reid V. Moran, curator
of botany; Laurence M. Huey, curator
of birds and mammals; Dr. John A.
Comstock, entomologist; and Emory
P. Pierce, curator of mollusks.
Its use, however, is not limited to
members of the controlling institution.
Any qualified investigator or student
is welcome to use the facilities to fur-
ther natural history research. The
museum is actively working with bio- USING SHOELACES FOR NOOSES, CHRIS PARRISH CAUGHT THESE SPECKLED RATTLERS O N ANGEL DE
logists of the Instituto Biologia of LA GUARDA ISLAND. SNAKES MEASURED 5 6 INCHES-RECORD LENGTH FOR THIS NEW SUBSPECIES.
Mexico. Dr. Enrique Beltran, sub-
secretary of Mexico's federal depart- we were there to see the start of the over to them. May they never tire of
ment of forestry and game, has ar- project. this land where whales and coyotes
ranged complete sanction of this pro- can keep one awake on the same night,
ject with all federal departments. Dr. In my article in Desert Magazine on
where kangaroo rats have become
Margarita Brava of the Instituto Bio- Angel de la Guarda (Dec. '59) I de- beachcombers, where coyotes dig for
logia has requested use of the station scribed what I called "whispering clams and pull them above high-tide
in her studies of fish parasites. James rattlers." This intrigued some of the for the sun to open, where foxes fish
H. McLean, a Ph.D. candidate under museum staff members. On one trip for crabs with their bushy tails, where
Dr. Donald Abbott of Stanford Uni- to Angel de la Guarda Island, Chris small sea gulls keep large pelicans as
versity, would like to undertake a two- Parrish, junior naturalist of the domesticated servants, and a unique
year study of the life history of the museum, celebrated his 17th birthday species of bat lives by catching live
mollusks (sea shells to we ordinary by catching two more of the whisper- fish.
collectors) and to make a collection ing rattlers, and setting the record for
from the entire area. size in spotted rattlesnakes. Both From time to time I shall have the
specimens were 56 inches long. They pleasure of reporting on the progress
The list is growing. Eastern organ- of this field station that stands with
izations are sending inquiries. Uni- will probably turn out to be a new
one foot planted in the Baja desert
versities, marine laboratories and sub-species of Crotolus Mitchellii. and the other in the Vermilion Sea.
specializing students all want to come With the advent of this new estab- We may even take part in some of
to Baja California, and there is only lishment we can rest assured that Angel the field trips, especially to our be-
one field station on the 800-mile pen- de la Guarda and many of the other loved Isla Angel de la Guarda. There
insula. Scientific history will be made gulf islands will be explored over the is a combination of desert and sea
in the old mining house my family once years. It is with pleasure, tinged with about this country which weaves a
called home, and we are proud that just a little envy, that I turn the task spell of magic that calls one back. / / /

January, 1961 / Desert Magazine / 25


KA HCHITQ

SHORTY BOYD AT THE ENTRANCE TO HIS "RANCHITO"

He roped 'em,
rode 'em,
I n branded
DON'T UNDERSTAND these
modern rodeos. Looks to me
'em
like they have the calf roped be-
fore he comes out of the chute . . .
and then the critter lies down and
crosses his legs so's they can be tied. and mention of his name brings a
smile to their lips. Life on the open
"These days a man will haul a horse
30 miles in a truck just to ride him range was sometimes dangerous, nearly
30 yards . . ." always lonely. A sense of humor was counts. "I roped 'em, rode 'em, and
as necessary for survival as a good branded 'em."
These words come from five-foot horse, or a canteen that didn't leak
three-inch Arthur "Shorty" Boyd of water. In modern-day rodeos, a bronc
Vaughn, New Mexico — a cowboy rider only has to stay aboard for 10
from the old school. Shorty was born 70 years ago in seconds. "Heck," says Shorty, "we
Anson, Jones County, Texas. Three just rode 'em 'til they quit."
Shorty's trademark is his wit and years later his family moved to the
good humor. All the old cowboys in West Texas plains and Shorty grew He liked to ride broncs—the wilder
this part of the country know Shorty, up on a ranch, loving every minute of the better. When he drew a gentle
it. High-heel boots, leather chaps, 10- horse, he'd trade it for a wild one.
gallon hat and spirited horseflesh have Few of the critters ever sent him off
been part of his life since his first into outer space or left him sprawled
By BEULAH MEEKS memories. on the earth. Once lured into the net,
a cowboy usually loves every danger-
When Shorty was 14 he went out ous moment of bronc riding.
Beulah Meeks is a native of Iowa, but into the world to make his living as
she has been a New Mexican for the past There were no corrals or grand-
50 years. She resides in Albuquerque. a bronc buster. He worked for the
L-S-O, Drag-Y and the famed 3,000,- stands at the early-day rodeos. Wag-
Her specialty is writing about pioneer
days and people, and she also has written 000-acre X-I-T ranch. ons, buggies, people on horseback and
about the customs and life of Southwest a few cars arranged in a circle formed
Indians. "The work was clear-cut," he re- the arena. Sometimes the spectators
26 / Desert Magazine / January, 1961
experienced as much excitement as the milked her, using the brim of his hat who was cooking a big lunch of ham
participants. The bucking stock was for a pail. Breakfast over, he made and eggs," recalls Shorty. "I was hun-
roped, eared-down, blindfolded and another attempt to get through the gry as a pet coon, but he did not ask
saddled right out on the open flat. The mountains. Three days later he made me to eat with him.
rest was up to the cowboy. it out to flat country and drove his "I began racking my brain for
herd into a branding corral.
Shorty early learned that being a something to say that would cause him
cowboy meant doing a lot of things Later that night he turned the stock to invite me to have lunch with him.
besides riding broncs and branding loose to graze, roping a fresh horse Finally I said: 'Well, mister how's
calves. He learned to cook, build to ride next morning when it would politics up your way?'
fence, repair fence, feed stock and ride be time to round-up the wandering "This fellow replied: 'Well, we're
the range the long day through. livestock. going to get rid of that Democrat and
By 1916 the young cowboy had ac- At daybreak Shorty made a very put a Republican in this fall for sure.'
quired several head of stock, and he unpleasant discovery. In the black of " 'That's just the thing to do,' I
decided to push west. In May of that the preceding night, his lariat had made told him, and that Kansas fellow
year he bade the Texas Plains goodby a very bum choice: Quo Vadis. jumped up and stepped around like
and shipped his stock to the Estancia "I knew I had a slim chance," a burro eating cactus. 'Get down,
Valley in New Mexico where he took recounts Shorty. "Usually I liked to mister, and have some lunch with me,'
up a homestead nine miles north of spur 'em, quirt 'em from the corner he said. We had a good political talk
the town of Lucy. of their shoulder to the root of their and when I left he followed me down
The winter of 1918-19 is still vivid tail—but not Quo Vadis. the road for a half-mile still talking
in the minds of the old-timers in this "I pulled down my hat, pulled up politics."
territory. Many horses and cattle froze my pants, and yelled out something Late that same day Shorty came to
to death; late snows did additional like: 'Let's go get the horses.' a ranch house and decided to see if
damage. Then came a couple of years he could find a corral for his horses
of drouth which finished off most of "What a ride! That sun-fishing son-
of-a-gun really turned it on. This was and a night's lodging for himself.
the operators, big and small.
one time I knew it was either ride or "I rode over to the place and heard
Turning his remaining stock over to walk." Luckily, Shorty soon roped a couple of women arguing politics.
the loan company, Shorty "saddled up another horse to ride the rest of that One was a Republican, the other a
Old Sib, took my hot roll (bed roll), day. Democrat. I listened a few minutes
and vamoosed the ranch and traveled." trying to decide which one owned the
From ranching he drifted back into Nearing his destination, Shorty
counted his bucking string and dis- ranch. Finally one of the women went
the rodeo business—eventually as a to her car, saying to the other: 'Come
promoter. Soon he had a string of covered the tally was one short. He see me, you hard-headed old Demo-
bucking horses — Lightning, Grave back-tracked several miles before it crat.'
Yard Agnes, Bingo ("and they hit the occurred to him that he had not
dirt!"), Yellow Jacket, Tadpole, Six- counted the horse he was riding. Such "I rode up closer just as the ranch
Fifty, Black-Jack, Old Sour Dough is the grist for a good laugh when woman came out of her chicken house
and Quo Vadis: fine horses, especi- cowboys get together. with a basket of eggs. She looked like
ally the last mentioned which threw When Shorty unwinds, the stories she weighed 400 pounds after a 24-
90 percent of his riders. Quo Vadis come thick and fast. Like the time he hour shrink, and she had a husky
was a deceptive critter — gentle to saw a coyote slinking across the prairie. voice.
handle as long as the cowpoke stood Cattlemen shot coyotes on sight, but " 'Good evening,' I managed to say.
on the ground, but when someone Shorty did not carry firearms. So he Those political words were in the bot-
climbed upon his back, the horse went decided to give chase to the coyote tom of my boots, but I was able to
loco. Quo Vadis was well known up and attempt to rope it. After two cough them up: 'I'm a hard-headed
and down the small town New Mexico hours of skillfully dodging the rope, Democrat looking for a place to spend
rodeo circuit. the coyote was still on the loose, and the night, and corrals for my horses.'
Shorty had just about lost all interest " 'Get down, mister, and spend the
Shorty often drove his stock 150 in the sport.
miles from one rodeo to another. Once, night,' she said. And so I was a Re-
after finishing a 10-day rodeo at Tula- Just then the coyote bounded up a publican at noon and that night a
rosa, he headed toward Magdalena small rise and onto the highway. Shorty Democrat. I had such good luck with
where the show's next appearance was was right behind; and once more he politics I quit it then and there."
scheduled. To save time he took a cast his rope, snagging the coyote on It was at Mountainair in the sum-
"short cut" through the mountains. top of the rise—in full view of a car mer of 1941 that Shorty staged his
Memory of this experience still causes jammed full of tourists. They were so last rodeo. He sold his bucking string
him to shake his head. excited at seeing a cowboy rope a and returned to ranching, but events
coyote with his first throw that they of the rodeo world still are close to
The rugged country was new to stopped their car and got out.
Shorty and soon he was hopelessly his heart.
lost. To add to his discomfort a heavy "Whenever I miss one the first "The modern rodeo arenas are too
downpour struck his temporary camp. throw," Shorty told his new friends, small," he says. "Just turn a wild
"I just turn and go home." steer or calf loose in the wide open
"Not only was I without a bed, fire
and something to eat; I couldn't even Shorty usually stayed clear of poli- spaces and I'll rope 'em. The future
light a smoke," he recalls. "That night tics, but long years of association with of rodeoing is hard to look at."
I went to bed on my stomach and cowboys taught him plenty of diplo- Shorty still rides the range and ropes
covered up with my back." The fol- macy. and brands calves on his spread. He
lowing morning a few lizards were Like the time he was driving his is always busy; works every day. He
treated to a $2.50 rodeo extravaganza. bucking string to the next rodeo date. doesn't quit a job until it is finished.
Shorty roped one of his wild cows and "I came across a man from Kansas ///
January, 1961 / Desert Magazine / 27
crossing a brush-covered mesa
—with
a compass
With the help of a
compass—and
knowledge of how to use
it—the author and his
wife "navigated"
through a tangle of
pinyon and scrub oak to
the rim of
Canyon de Chelly

By CHARLES RAYMOND EGE

Compass of type mentioned in accompanying article, super-


imposed on photo of Canyon de Chelly. Compass card points
to magnetic north, but line of sight (from eye-piece at bottom
T WAS THE last afternoon of a
I delightful stay in the Canyon de
Chelly area of northeastern Arizona,
and we wanted to enjoy it alone. Our
through slot in raised cover at top) is true north. White line above
the arrow is painted on underside of rotable cover-glass; the
latter may be set to allow for local deviation from true north.
True bearing is thus read directly under the white line. Small
button at left of compass box operates a lever to damp the
plan was to leave the car somewhere swing of compass card.
along the road on the high mesa and
hike north toward the main canyon,
intersecting its rim at Monument Can- old dependable compass. We noted pected. We marked the intersection
yon, the southernmost branch of de the exact time and started off. by tying a white streamer—torn from
Chelly. Ordinarily, such compass work my shirt—to a bare limb.
A few miles southeast of Chinle merely means sighting some mark— Then we found a vantage point
we noticed a pair of wheel tracks turn a tree, rock or bush as far ahead as where we could sit and enjoy the mag-
off into the scrub—heading our way. possible on the desired bearing, then nificent chasm at our feet. Well above
We followed this rut-trail for three walking to it and making another ob- the cliff an eagle floated effortlessly
miles—and then it faded into nothing. servation farther on. But on this mesa on rising thermals—that side of the
There was no change in terrain; no the small trees were so thick it was gorge had been in sun since early
marks of vehicles having been turned difficult to identify one on line—par- morning. Soft echoes of our conver-
around. It was just one of those in- ticularly while dodging low branches sation drifted back to us. We won-
explicables of rough country. And to and brush. So Jean went ahead as dered if this part of the canyon had
complicate matters further, pinyon and "flagman" as far as visibility permitted. echoed to the shots of Kit Carson's
oak scrub surrounded us. It was so I signalled her onto the exact bearing, volunteers when they herded the Nav-
thick visibility was limited to 20 or (N 30° E) then moved ahead to her ajos out of its depths and started them
30 paces. position. After 46 minutes of such on the "long walk" to Ft. Sumner,
Now we were faced with a decision: "leap-frog" tactics, we emerged on the New Mexico, in 1863-64.
Should we hike on through the tangle Canyon's rim about as we had ex- Most of all we enjoyed the com-
—gambling on finding our parked car plete peacefulness of the Canyon.
upon our return—or should we turn As a boy in a small Iowa town, Charles
Ege's imagination was fired by Kirk There were no traces of human occu-
around and drive back to the main Monroe's stories of the Southwest and pancy from where we sat, save for
road and forget about Monument Can- Kit Carson's desert campaigns. He liked faint horse trails through the brush on
yon? maps, surveying, construction work —
the sandy canyon bottom. There were
and dreamed of exploring wild country.
Having a good compass, we decided For a short while after graduating from no sounds other than our voices and
to forge on afoot. college (Iowa State) Ege worked at high- the occasional rustle of the soft breeze.
From my map I figured that we way, railway and bridge engineering jobs We walked both ways along the rim
from the Black Hills to Puget Sound—
were less than three miles from the then came a 31-year desk-stint in Chicago. for a mile or less.
canyon's rim. By laying out a straight At last—in 1950—theoretically retired, After an hour or more of thoroughly
compass course to the canyon, we Ege removed to San Diego. He has lived
in the West ever since, "escaping from enjoyable loafing and camera-work,
would be able to retrace it to the car. retirement to take part in the construc- we drifted back to the point where
We took a canteen and sandwich tion engineering for large concrete build- our white streamer floated from the
each, the camera and tripod, and my ings and dams." bare limb. Here we took another com-

28 / Desert Magazine / January, 1961


pass bearing (S 30° W) for the return may seem. I have had passengers in vided into quadrants to read from
trip, noted the time, and plunged into my car dispute me when I remarked north to 90° east and west, and from
the scrub. The sun was lower and that we were climbing fast; and this south to 90° east and west. Most prop-
the shade thicker, but twice we saw when a stream-bed along the road erty lines are described in the latter
footprints we had made on the way in. showed conspicuous marks of storm- method of compass division. There
After 46 minutes of hiking with fre- water flowing in opposite direction to are many Japanese instruments now
quent compass shots to hold our course our travel. on the market of excellent sensitivity
we stopped to rest. The car was no- A good compass is the best frame and make, but which display some
where in sight. We realized that an of reference for cardinal directions. (to us) weird markings—such as di-
error of something less than 100 feet I prefer a sighting compass, with a viding the full circle into 64 degrees.
either way could have caused us to simple adjustment for setting off local
miss seeing the car in this jungle. Thus Lacking a compass, but having sun-
declination—there are few places on shine and a watch set for standard
we were laying plans to search a series earth where a magnetic needle points
of 200-foot circles with one person local time (not daylight saving time),
to true north. This deviation from approximate cardinal directions can be
remaining at the center of these circles true north is stated for specific areas
when we caught a flash of sunlight on determined thusly: hold the watch face
on U.S.G.S. quadrangle maps; also, up to the sky and point the hour-hand
the brightwork of the car. It was it may be learned from any land sur-
parked less than 50 feet ahead and to the sun. Halfway from the hour-
veyor's office, or from the local county hand to the numeral 12 will be south.
a bit to the left of the course we had or city engineer. Roughly, in eastern
followed. New Mexico, the declination is about Having these aids in determining
On the ride back I must admit that 11° east of north. In Southern Cali- cardinal directions, believe them. Dis-
we were somewhat pleased with our fornia it is about 15° east of north. card any unconfirmed notion as to
successful navigation of the thicket. Many modern compasses are divided which way is north; it may be wrong
Actually, there is little chance of be- into 360 degrees clockwise from the —and that's one of the easiest ways
coming lost in the wilds if a person north-point; formerly, they were di- to get lost. The compass is right. / / /
learns how to "keep track" of him-
self—without getting "turned around."
When in unfamiliar areas, one should
avoid relying on unconfirmed "no- Save money on these marve-
tions" of cardinal directions, particu- KIT r o MAKE) Everything
lous bargains. We import and
manufacture many
larly in cloudy weather or at night. items—let us serve
10 Beautifully pol ished you from our large
Few people are gifted with an in- Baroque stones of C i t r i n e stock—we guaran-
Amethyst, Rock Crystal, Morgan ite tee satisfaction!
nate sense of direction, so one should and Aquamarine. %" sizes total weigh
have a continuing and reliable frame 50 Carats. Order at: S-12-C $1.00

of reference, even for the directions J


£KRIFIC
VALUES IN
"up" and "down" — strange as this READER
MAGNIFIERS
JEWELRY ^Sp^S
THIS OLD PROSPECTOR REPAIR KIT V ^ f
What you've always needed to make
KNEW HIS CACTUS or repair any necklace, earrings, etc.
NOW get a small quantity of assort-
I once asked an old Colorado Des- ed sizes in a big money-saving offer!
Includes 24 Bell Caps, 24 J u m p
ert prospector how many varieties of Rings and 6 Spring Rings.
MC1C Yellow Gold — 54-pc. REPAIR KIT
cactus he was familiar with. "By MC2 C White Gold — 54-pc. REPAIR KIT

gosh," said he, "you city fellers have TUBE OF JEWELER'S


no idea how many kinds we got. I package at a big reduction. Price
includes postage. Special! Special
QUALITY CEMENT!
Full sized tube of JEWELER'S CE-
know every one of 'em. There's the Order at S34-C only $1.00 M E N T . . . just what you need to
quickly and firmly hold your
'full of stickers,' 'all stickers,' 'never- . urfER IN
jewelry creations together. Com-
fail stickers,' 'stick everybody,' 'the plete instructions included.
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stick and stay in,' 'the sharp stickers,' High polish,
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cat's claws cactus,' 'the barbed fish- Order as: S-ll-C »1.00

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23 carats. Superb for ring mounting
cactus,' 'the impartial sticker,' 'the or for your collection!
democratic sticker,' 'the deep sticker,'
and a few others." So good it's replacing rivets
MIRACLE ADHESIVE — you've
I am not scientist enough to pass seen it on T V and in L I F E — it
judgment upon the accuracy of the bonds materials stronger than any-
thing else. Aircraft industry using
old prospector's classification, but to it instead of Rivets—replaces nails
and screws. Perfect for jewelry
my layman-like mind he seems to making — Unconditionally guaran-
teed! Kit of 2 jars with complete
have been pretty successful in his en- instructions.
deavors to tabulate them all.—George
Wharton James' The Wonders of the lice—C uttom e
Bulletin" tontoin.
eive FREE lomow* "Rotkhound
freih idea* ond new gem itone (indt!
Colorado Desert (1906)

January, 1961 / Desert Magazine / 29


the shadow of Shiprock Mountain in
northwest New Mexico. Arizona
SOUTHWEST NEWS BRIEFS Public Service is building the line,
as well as the coal-burning power
plant.
<J A jet-age capital city for Arizona California and Nevada who met re-
—to replace "badly laid-out Phoe- cently in Yuma to work toward solu-
Dream nix
" ~ i s Pr°P°sed tion of the varied and complex
_ . by New York finan- problems affecting the region (see <J Dr. A. L Inglesby, pioneer south-
oapital "Trouble on the Colorado" in the ern Utah mineral collector, passed
Robert W. Dowling. The city Dowl- December Desert Magazine). The Hobbyist S W a Y inQ7Novembf*•
ing suggests would be built around conference members created an or- He w a s 87 years old.
an airport in the Gila River Valley. ganization of active local chambers Succumbs " D o c " Inglesby's
Elliptical areas radiating from a cen- of commerce to recommend action name appeared often in the early
tral airport would be zoned toward on needed roads, zoning, building Desert Magazines in connection with
the center for light industry and codes and pollution control. Mean- reports on gem fields in the Fruita
office buildings, and at the outer while, the Department of Interior re- area. Plans are to place his exten-
edge for residential sections. Dowl- iterated its policy of removing all sive and unique collection in a mu-
ing and his associates hold a 90,- "squatters" from the river lands. A seum as a memorial.
000-acre tract earmarked for the city spokesman said the Department be-
site. lieves "it is obligated to take any
and all steps necessary to discour-
age and indeed block any further <I A search for the right lawn grass
encroachments on federal land. In for southern Nevada is underway
short, no further trespass in this area n . at the University of
can be tolerated." " Nevada's Agricultur-
<I The rapid "but prudent" economic
development of lands along the Col- Lawn a l Experiment Station
orado R i v e r from near Logandale. So far the most
Hoover D a m south promising desert lawn is a selection
Problem (o ^ Mexicanbor. t][ The Federal Housing Administra- of Bermuda grasses. Bluegrass, a
der was described as the primary tion is now prepared to insure homes popular lawn variety, does not stand
goal of representatives from Arizona, FHA p o r built on Navajo and up in southern Nevada because of
I ,. Hopi reservation the extreme summer heat.
lands in Arizona and
New Mexico. The move was hailed
by the Department of Interior as a
major advance toward improved €J Texas Gulf Sulphur Company an-
housing conditions for the Indians. nounced plans for the immediate
yj. , start on construction
JVU>cm
of a $25,000,000 p o t -
Potash a s nm i n i n g a n d
<l Construction is expected to begin processing p l a n t near Moab i n
ENJOY A DESERT VACATION early this year on a 300-mile long southeastern Utah. Exploration for
IN FAMOUS P o w e r Line 345 000 v o l t
' trans
- potash in this area was begun in
mission line linking 1953 "as insurance against the pos-

DEATH VALLEY
Every vacation facility at two Fred Harvey
A c r o s s Arizona Phoenix to the pro-
sible end of the uranium industry."
posed Four Corners Power Plant in Texas Gulf's new plant is designed
to produce annually "well over a
million tons of muriate of potash."
resorts. Golf, swim, ride, bask in the warm This will make the company the
sun, explore this mineral-rich land. Ex-
ceptional cuisine.
pick up and go largest potash producer in the na-
tion. Moab potash will be on the

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30 / Desert Magazine / January, 1961


January Trouel
CALIFORNIA HAS
SAGUAROS, TOO
By LUCILE WEIGHT
Desert Magazine's California Travel Correspondent
EW TRAVELERS who go to Arizona that they were found in two areas; two said
F to see that state's most symbolic plant,
the saguaro, know that these cactus
giants grow in numbers on the west or Cali-
"two or three" sites; six gave three occur-
rences; others were indefinite.
A SAGUARO AGAINST THE RUGGED VOLCANIC
BACKGROUND OF CALIFORNIA'S WHIPPLE MTS.

fornia side of the Colorado River, too. At least 14 other saguaro locations are
reported for California, but the Whipple THE LAPIDARY'S
Best and most easily accessible saguaro Mountain group not only is the largest but
area in California is along a 10-mile stretch has the most beautiful setting. Singly and STANDARD OF VALUE
in the Whipple Mountains near Parker in small colonies they occur from a point BUY THE BEST
Dam, on the Colorado. Here at least 100 about 13 miles north of Earp (where the FOR LESS
can be counted along the river road and a Colorado is bridged to Parker, Arizona) to Congo Dia Blades
Sizes range from
short distance up one or two side-canyons. about eight miles north of Parker Dam. 4 to 24"
Many more aTe reported farther back in the Even if you are unmoved by saguaros,
range. (See map on page 8.) boating or fishing, you cannot fail to be
This frontier stand of saguaros is little enthralled and awed by the spectacular river
known not only by the public but by drive. Through this section the Colorado
authors on Southwest flora. Of 22 writers cuts into the east cliffs of the Whipples and
mentioning saguaros in the state, two said flows through sheer red and purple and A LEADER
they occurred at but a single locality; five green walls. Volcanic headlands, crags IN ITS FIELD
and peaks dwarf the motorist at the base Highland Park
of the cliffs. At a few places the river Power-feed
bed widens slightly, where side-washes cut Slab Saws
utd HIDDEN TREASURES Sizes range from 12'
to the river or the canyon bends, and at to 24". Metal or Lu
GOLD, SILVER, PRECIOUS METALS with t h . Fomoui M o d . l
such spots are added colors of cottonwood cite hood.
27 (total D.t.tlor. lightweight, ultni-nnaitlva, low and willows—gold and light bronze in
co.1. N O M I finer. Also GEICER COUNTERS far uranium • spring and fall, and brilliant green in
a n d the VIOLITE (or tungsten. INFORMATION FREE , summer.
&s On such patches of land too are river
Often Copied — Never Excelled camps and trailer parks, headquarters for
METAL DETECTORS mountain climbers, rock hunters, boatmen,
More accurate, it's the first metal detector
fishermen, and photographers.
designed specifically for detecting placer It was because of such a setting, with
gold, nuggets, and other small metal ob-
jects. Depth range 7 feet—comes complete, both scenic and recreation value, that this
ready to use. area long ago was suggested as a Califor- Highland Park Combination Unit
MODEL 27—instructions included $119.95 nia state park. The State Division of Beaches Available in all sizes. Perfect combina-
MODEL 711—with 21 ft. depth range $138.50 and Parks in 1952 gave top priority to tion unit for Lapidary work. Handles saw-
9200 acres in this section. Since it was ing, grinding, sanding, and polishing. Ex-
ceptionally quiet operation.
federally owned, it was thought that there Arbors of All Sizes—Tumblers, Belt Sanders,
would be little difficulty in arranging a Trim Saws — 41 Models to Choose From
lease to the state. But people had moved The most complete line of lapidary ma-
in and already had invested a reported chinery offered by any manufacturer. See
these at your local Highland Park dealer
$40,000 on the river front there. In suc- or write for free literature.
ceeding years, park commissioners and
county supervisors have made "survey trips" HIGHLAND PARK MANUFACTURING CO.
and "studies," continuing to list the Whipple 1009-1011 MISSION STREET
Mountain site as a future state park. The SOUTH PASADENA, CALIFORNIA
trespass problem has mounted. (See "Trouble
on the Colorado" in the December '60
Desert Magazine.)
Largest Selection in
LAKEWOOD CHEMICAL KIT The geologic beauty and the river will Southern California
The Lakewood Chemical Kit can be used in remain while officials work on plans—but NAVAJO RUGS
connection with all the principal texts on will those unique California saguaros remain
minerals such as Dana, Pough, O. C. Smith, Reasonably Priced
Pennfield, Duke's Course, and many others. indefinitely without protection, with greater
The Lakewood Chemical Kit, because of numbers seeking the river for recreation? Vegetable and Aniline Dyes
the acids it contains, is not recommended That far more saguaros once lived on this
for persons under 18 years old. Priced also
$36.00 Express only. side of the river is indicated by various
reports in which travelers and writers re- Indian Silverwork
SEND FOR FREE LITERATURE ferred to "many saguaros" and "a large
Compton grove," one in the mid-1930s stating that DESERT MAGAZINE CRAFT SHOP
<SfzoL
pt
1405 S. Long Beach Blvd., Compton, Calif.
a "grove" was being slowly removed in the
Parker area. How many were taken by
Palm Desert California
Open 9 to 5:30
NEwmark 2-9096 early plant collectors and dealers, or suc-
cumbed to vandals who used them as tar- every day of the week,
South of Compton Blvd. including Sundays
gets or torches will never be known. Un-

January, 1961 / Desert Magazine / 31


doubtedly at least some of them were from Vidal Junction on Hiway 95) to two majesty to this colorful gorge, or whether
destroyed in the 1930s during the building miles beyond Parker Dam, a distance of 17 changing conditions will allow them to gain
of Parker Dam and the takeoff Metropoli- miles, is paved. Beyond that the Metro- a further foothold may depend on what
tan Water District aqueduct. politan Water District's graveled road may protection is given those remaining. Now
be traveled—carefully—by standard cars the area is referred to as "no man's land."
The road from Earp postoffice (16.2 mi. hauling small trailers. At 29.6 mi. from This is not strictly true. Development has
Earp, the route terminates at Roads End increased along the river; throngs of visitors
Camp where there are limited accommoda- are multiplying; and because the land is
The Newest Thing Under The Sun! tions and a wonderful view of the south still nominally federal, little or no control
end of Lake Havasu, backed up by Parker can be imposed by the county.
ADJUSTABLE /X Dam. A side-trip may be taken at Black
To protect the saguaros, as well as insure
SUN GLASSES Meadow Landing (3V2 mi. right) at a turn-
off 6V2 miles north of Parker Dam. the best development for river recreation,
**. Nose Pads and Bridge Can Be
f X Contoured To Fit Your Face the government will need to take faster
Perfectly! First of the saguaros are seen less than action than it has in the past 10 years.
Latest styling \
in unbreakable 13 miles north of Earp. Some grow in Further delay will increase the hydra-head-
sunglasses.Com- barren volcanic rock, on rocky ledges, at ed problem. . . for the rush to the river
plete protection
against sun, snow, cave entrances; others in volcanic soil of is accelerating, as beaches and mountains
fog. For driving, side washes. Just below and above Parker overflow with recreation seekers.
hunting, fishing, etc. Dam no saguaros are seen. Whether they
Available in two colors, green or amber, with or were destroyed there during the construc-
without sideshields. Priced at only $5.00 including tion period has not been determined. They JANUARY EVENTS ON THE DESERT
deluxe "carry-all" case. Sent postpaid. Specify reappear about 2Vi miles north of the dam, SOUTHWEST:
color and sideshields when ordering. No C.O.D.'s.
and about a mile farther is the saguaro 1—Gila Bend, Ariz., Sportsmen's Club An-
WARNED IMPORT? 4015 Magnolia-Dept. D center, the best specimens growing on a
YVAKNtit I M P U K 1 5 Burbank, California nual Jeep Ride.
west slope of a little volcanic range bor- 3.7—13th Annual Arizona National Live-
dering the river, right of the road. Land- stock Show, Phoenix.
mark for this area is a beautiful round arch
near the crest of a ridge. Besides the 6-Feb. 2—Exhibition of paintings by Bill
saguaros seen from the road, more are Bender, and carvings by Mogens Abel
found in side canyons both right and left at the admission-free Desert Magazine
of the road. Art Gallery in Palm Desert, Calif.
6-7—Annual Convention, Nevada Wool
With the saguaros along the river road Growers Association, Ely.
are other cacti—Bigelow cholla, beavertail, 15—Dons Club Travelcade to Ray-Hayden
deerhorn and barrel—their flowers in spring Copper Mines, from Phoenix.
adding colors to the deeper hued back-
ground. Other plant companions are mes- 15 and 29—Desert Sun Ranchers' Rodeo,
quite, incense bush, bright green "desert Wickenburg, Ariz.
fir" hanging from red banks, desert laven- 16—Yuma, Ariz., vs. Ft. Lauderdale, Flor-
der, paloverde climbing the barren vol- ida, Ice Melting Contest. (A huge block
canics, verdant catsclaw, ocotillo, and the of ice is set out in each city to determine
great ironwood trees. The alien pink which is the warmest winter tourist ha-
flowered tamarisk adds spring color to ven.)
washes and little tongues at river's edge. 21-22—Pacific Coast Championship Sports
The white flowers of the saguaros open Car Road Race, Palm Springs.
about May, and within six weeks their red 22—Dons Club Travelcade to Prescott-
ripening fruits are targets for whitewinged Jerome area, from Phoenix.
doves and other birds that haunt this walled 28-29—21st Annual Rodeo, Palm Springs.
world.
28-29—Dons Club Bus Tour of Nogales
How long the saguaros, migrants from and Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum near
Mexico via Arizona, continue to add their Tucson, from Phoenix.

Bill Hoy photo

FIRST 1961 INVITATION


To enjoy ond photograph the myriad
beauties of GLEN CANYON of the COLO-
RADO RIVER in Utah.
Hud Rock Shorty
• To visit and photograph RAINBOW
BRIDGE.
• Boat launchings at HITE, Utah.
• Landings at KANE CREEK, </2 Mile from
of Death Valley
Crossing of the Fathers in Utah.
• Drive your car, or fly in to rendezvous
point—HITE, Utah.
"Fightin1?" asked Hard Rock Shorty. oncet, an' he explained thet the hot
• Your choice of nine 4-DAY TRIPS dur- "Naw — don't do thet no more. Not weather here speeds things up so that
ing MAY and JUNE 1961. thet I didn't usta. But, I give myself yuh can't rightly trust what you see in
• Rendezvous day—EVERY Monday. this here black eye this mornin' while
• Launchings—EVERY Tuesday the mirror.
• Landings—EVERY Friday. I was lookin' in a new fangled mirror."
4-DAY FARE: $100 Having thus insured further listeners, "Like wot happened to me this morn-
• 1961 is the final year to boat GLEN Hard Rock felt his bruise tenderly be- in'. I got up an' started gettin' dressed
CANYON in its virgin beauty.
• 1962 will see the closing of the gates fore he relaxed in his chair and went on in front o' this cold climate mirror. Well
of the diversion tunnels, and the flooding with his yarn. sir, thet mirror was acclimated by then,
forever by the rising waters of the new an' it had me all confused. It was three-
LAKE POWELL, behind GLEN CANYON "Yup—feller from Los Angeles was four moves ahead o' me. Like when I
DAM near PAGE, Arizona. in Death Valley last night sellin' mir-
• Come join us in our 23rd year.
rors, an' I bought one. Looked good, grabbed my shirt, looked in the mirror,
• Identify above river canyon scene and an' there was my arm just comin' out
receive $5 credit on boat fare. too, but I ought to o' known better.
• During 1960, our 1001st boating guest Mirrors made any place else ain't no 0' the sleeves. I gets the first arm in
was SUSAN DOLESE of Ganado, Arizona just as the mirror finished buttonin' up.
—who won the fare refund. good here. It's colder in them other
• Come join us Into A Land of Great places, an' when one o' them cold cli-
Beauty. mate mirrors gets into Death Valley, it "Between reachin' for thet other sleeve
don't somehow act right. an' tuckin' my shirt tail in, first thing I
LARABEE AND ALESON knowed I'd belted myself one in the
WESTERN RIVER TOURS "I asked a college perfesser about it eye."
Richfield, Utah

32 / Desert Magazine / January, 1961


BY JAMES TALLON
ANCIENT
A RIZONA IS RICH with the dwellings of ancient In-
dian cultures. Some of these prehistoric ruins are
well-known—Betatakin, Keet Seel, Wupatki . . .
hundreds of others are nameless and obscure, rarely if
ever visited by man . . . and undoubtedly a few ruins remain
undiscovered to this day.
SANCTUARY
Foy Blackburn, a writer of Western fiction, and I had
just finished a two-day picture-taking session amid the
weathered buttes of Monument Valley, and were heading
home on the dusty reservation road. A few miles from
Marsh Pass we entered Long House Valley, named for a
prehistoric dwelling of many rooms joined end on end.
Foy called my attention to what appeared to be a tiny
hollow high in the red sandstone cliffs to the north. I
pulled to a stop and Foy produced his binoculars. Our
suspicions were confirmed—the shallow cave contained a
ruin. Sunlight filtering into the cave painted an outline
of crumbling walls and a small watchtower.
Minute figures race down the slopes on the opposite side
We turned off the road and drove to where the sand- of the valley. Realizing they are discovered, the attackers
stone rose out of the powder-dry floor of the valley. A shout fearfully. The workers in the fields below raise their
sloping ridge contained a narrow gorge evidently cut by heads and calmly observe the charging of their enemies.
thousands of years of intermittent cascades of water. After They gather their tools and retreat in an orderly fashion
following this defile a short distance we came to a 15-foot to the safety of their cliff house . . .
rock wall which had a pool of fresh clear water at its base.
Nearby—leading skyward—were the hand- and foot-holds . . . Preparations are made for the coming attack.
cut into the wall by the Ancient Ones. They took us to the Everyone is shouting now, and frightened children add
precipice that contained the ruins. In the shade of an over- their wails to the rising din. The raiders scale the steep
hanging ledge opposite our goal we paused to catch our slopes and one charges madly across the narrow ledge to
breaths—and evidently those who had climbed this trail the cliff dwelling. He spins quickly about, a feathered
before us did the same thing. Here on the face of the cliff shaft protruding from his chest, and tumbles over the cliff.
the Ancient Ones had chiseled strange signs and figures into There is a moment's hesitation and then a second raider
the rock. Potshards by the thousands lay at our feet. How charges—and meets the same fate. A council is called by
many water bearers, pausing here to rest, had let their the enemy. An hour passes. Then, with much grumbling,
heavy earthen jars slip to the ground and shatter? they make their way back down the cliff, stopping only to
shout obscenities . . .
The course became rougher now. The one and only
entrance to the ancient apartment house was over a one- . . . The woman steps from the shadows and watches
man-wide pathway across a narrow ledge. Hand- and foot- the ant-like figures disappear into the distance. She quietly
holds had been worn into the rock. Despite the height, thanks her gods that this had been a short raid. She smiles
this "main boulevard" struck me as being considerably at the two children who have re-appeared behind her.
safer than a modern city street—no vehicles, no half-asleep A shout from Foy roused me from my reverie, and
pedestrians. together we examined the two goatlike petroglyphs he had
An aura of silent mystery surrounded the ruins as we discovered. Several large raindrops spotted the sandstone
picked our way among the decaying walls. Once in the as the warm sun disappeared behind dark clouds moving
shadow of the great cave, each footstep was placed with swiftly through the sky. Soon great veils of lashing rain
care. Several times I have had the short hair on my neck were tearing at the handiwork of the Ancient Ones. Some-
raised by the buzzing of a rattlesnake that had sought out day nothing will be left here to remind man that his fore-
the coolness of such a place. bears once lived in caves. ///
This had been a house of many rooms, but all suffered
from the devastating effects of time. Judging from the
vast amount of potshards, the population must have been
fairly large.
The small square watchtower's remaining walls stood
defiantly at the front of the cave. In the recesses the red
sandstone was blackened by the smoke of long-dead fires.
A thick layer of bat guano told us there was some form
of life here yet.
As Foy walked engrossed among the fallen masonry, I
sat on a cold flat stone and gazed at a large potshard with
stylized black patterns. In this setting one need not be a
romanticist to recreate the jar from which this piece of
pottery came, to hear a startling cry from the watchtower,
to see the jar slip from the woman's fingers and become a
mass of shards . . .
. . . Her eyes are flecked with apprehension as she
turns from two naked children and gazes at the horizon. BROKEN REMAINS OF POTTERY LIE SCATTERED ABOUT THE RUINS

January, 1961 / Desert Magazine / 33


CAHUIUA YUCCA-FIBER SANDAL. SOMETIMES SIMILAR FOOTWEAR WAS MADE FROM AGAVE FIBERS.

Indian Uses of Native Plants


By EDMUND C. JAEGER, D.Sc.
author of "DESERT WILDFLOWERS," "THE CALIFORNIA DESERTS,"
"OUR DESERT NEIGHBORS," "THE NORTH AMERICAN DESERTS"

OR AGES man has availed himself Suffering utter pain, and later, if he
F of the fibers of various parts of
plants to make clothing, domestic
utensils, parts of instruments of the
survived the initial torture, festering
sores, the prisoner almost always died.
For carrying burdens Indian women
chase, and shelter for himself and his (Cahuilla, Mohave, Panamint) wove
possessions. The important plant fi- carrying nets from yucca cords of small
bers employed for textile purposes or diameter or from fibers obtained from
the making of cordage was obtained milkweeds. In these nets, suspended
from hairs which are the outgrowth of from the head or shoulders, a woman
seeds (as in the case of cotton), or would carry ollas filled with water or
from the fibrovascular bundles of baskets filled with bulbs, edible roots,
stems. The latter consist of long nee- acorns or piny on nuts. Such a net
dlelike bast cells with tapering ends might be as much as two-feet long
that overlap and interlock. Such fibers and capable of being widened a foot
may be short or very long, even up to or a foot-and-a-half at the middle.
several feet in some of the rushes. The yucca fiber saddle blankets were
Our desert Indians' strong interest not only durable, but very easy on the
in fiber-bearing plants early led them horses or burros because they were
to experiment with fibers of the several coarse enough to provide ample ven-
species of yucca, especially those of CARRYING-NET MADE OF MILKWEED FIBERS BY tilation, and to readily absorb perspi-
CAHUILLA INDIANS. MANY TYPES OF BURDENS ration.
the lowly gray-leafed big-fruited yucca WERE CARRIED IN THESE NETS, WHICH
(Yucca baccata) of New Mexico, Ari- OFTEN WERE SUSPENDED FROM THE HEAD.
zona and eastern California, the taller The desert's agave or century plants,
Mojave yucca {Yucca schidigera) of with their long leathery spine-edged
the western Mojave and Colorado des- yucca fibers that were wrapped about and spine-tipped leaves, were not over-
erts, and Yucca elata of Arizona, New the ankle. looked as a source of long strong fibers.
Mexico and west Texas. All of these By pounding the green leaves of Agave
yuccas also fulfilled many other needs It was rope made from fibers of the deserti, the common Colorado Desert
of the Indians. Mojave yucca that the Cahuilla Indians century plant, the Cahuilla Indians
used in the markedly barbarous "cac- readily separated the long vascular
They obtained strong coarse fibers tus treatment" meted out as punish- bundles from the juicy pulp. They
by soaking yucca leaves in water then ment to members of the tribe guilty made sandals from this material even
beating and rinsing them. From these of the most heinous crimes such as as they did from yucca fibers; also
fibers they made moccasins, strong murder. A long yucca rope was tied they made rope and a kind of coarse
rope, a coarse but strong cloth, sacks, about the victim's ankles, and he then cloth. The quality of the fiber differs
brushes and even saddle blankets. The was jerked to the ground and dragged with the stages of maturity of the
moccasins had woven soles almost an by shouting men through patches of
inch thick, and tie-strings of twisted the viciously spiny Bigelow cholla. —continued on page 36
34 / Desert Magazine / January, 1961
W rt IHUU9 DLl/WUM:

MAN, WHAT A
BARGAIN!
True West, Frontier Times,
and A Gallery Of Western
Badmen for two measfy
bucks/
We ate some loco weed, pulled off our
bridles and are RUNNING WILD! Just to
introduce you to our magazines, we're turning
our heads so you can steal us blind!

TRUE
WEST
is published
bi-monthly
(6 issues
per y e a r ) —
25c per
copy, 12
issues for
$3.00.

Mef, %ut beautiful


FRONTIER
TIMES
is published
quarterly
(4 issues
per year)
—25c per Most of the world's beautiful flowers are born to bloom unseen by
copy, 12 man. Luckily, photographer Hiram Parent of Tucson caught this cactus in
issues for its short hours of nighttime splendor. Echinopsis turbinata, once native of
$3.00. Argentina and now growing well in our own Southwest, brings multipetaled
white flowers into bloom in a night—and when morning comes they are
TRUE WEST and FRONTIER TIMES are
gone. Each plant bears from one to eight flowers of the purest white, up
authentic magazines crammed with articles and to five-inches in diameter.
photos on badmen, range wars, Indian fights,
gold rush, ghost towns, lost mines, buried
(\(\ A \jk The buds are nine inches long, CONTINUED
treasures, outlaws, trail drives, frontier sagas,
cowboy and ranch life — they portray the
REAL T H I N G — they stick to the FACTS!
8 tUU I • / V K show white at the petal tips on next page

Where can you buy so much of the very


HEART of the Old West—AS IT REALLY WAS
— f o r ten times the price?
"SPECIALISTS IN SOUTHWESTERN PRESSWORK"
"A GALLERY OF
WESTERN BADMEN"

FREE! Printers of the Desert Magazine


With Each Subscription
This is a book of factual ac-
counts and photos on 21 famous
Books
gunslingers—Wyatt Earp, Billy
the Kid, Wes Hardin, Jesse James, Wild Bill Pamphlets
Hickok—twenty-one of them!

S P E C I A L ! We're making you a "see-what-


Brochures
we've got" offer of a full year's subscription to
BOTH magazines for two germ-laden bucks
Resort Folders
—and throwing in a copy of the BADMEN
book FREE-—-just to get you on the prod! It's
our last printing on the BADMEN book so DO
Color Production
IT N O W while they last! Send $2.00 in bills,
check or M.O. by hi-lifed giraffe RIGHT Write for free estimates
N O W to
DESERT PRINTERS, INC.
WESTERN PUBLICATIONS PALM DESERT, CALIFORNIA
BOX 5008-D AUSTIN 31, TEXAS

January, 1961 / Desert Magazine / 35


cactus blossom... (continued)
JAEGER/Indian Uses
—continued from page 34

agave plants, the older plants having


the stronger fibers.
From the short-leafed Agave lechu-
guilla, the Mexican Indians have for
many years taken quantities of an im-
portant fiber they call ixtle. This wild
plant is a predominant feature of the
dry limestone mesas and hillsides from
the vicinity of San Luis Potosi, Mexico,
to western Texas, southern New Mex-
ico and southeastern Arizona. Even
today much of the fiber is obtained by
hand work. It is separated from the
pulp by pulling the leaves between a
blunt knife and a block of wood. At
best a workman can clean only 66 to
88 pounds of fiber in a week, com-
pared to 360 pounds per worker per
week when machinery is used.
A very good string was made by
twisting the relatively long fiber the
Indians secured from the widely dis-
tributed carrizo or reed grass (Phrag-
mites communis). Locally this plant
occurs today in abundance along ca-
nals, desert canyon streamlets and
river borders. It has much the appear-
The flowers have started to flatten out, ance of a small sparsely-leafed bam-
P.M. and are about three inches across boo, but actually it is a very large
grass with beautiful silky plumed
flower heads. Indians of Mexico, Ari-
zona and California made prayer
sticks, pipe stems, arrowshafts, mats
and thatching for their crude dwellings
Please join us in Palm Desert for a from its pith-filled stems. The Pana-
mint Indians even obtained a sugar
Special Exhibit from it. According to Dr. Frederick
of Coville, the canes were dried and
Desert Paintings ground, then a sort of flour sifted out.
The moistened meal was set before a
by the noted Southwest artist $ fire, allowed to swell and brown. The
final sweet sticky product was eaten
BILL BENDER like taffy.
(you read about this promising A noticeably tall and slender legu-
young painter—pictured at right minous plant (Sesbania macrocarpa)
•—in the November Desert Magazine) grows abundantly on overflow lands
of the lower Colorado River and along
January 6 to February 2 the borders of irrigated fields and
From 9 to 5:30 daily, including canals of the Imperial Valley. It may
Sundays — Sharing the spotlight reach a height of six to 10 feet, has
with Bender's desert scenes will small bonnet - shaped pale - yellow
be the wood carvings and brown-spotted flowers, long dainty pin-
decorative panels of nate leaves each with up to 60 small
leaflets, and numerous many - seeded
MOGENS ABEL down-hanging very slender pods, up
to nine inches long. The Yuma Indi-
Desert Magazine Art Gallery ans got from the dried Sesbania stems,
Palm Desert, Calif. which they somewhat rotted in water,
(on Highway 111 mid-way between very strong smooth shining-white fila-
Palm Springs and Indio) ments which they wove into fine-netted
seines for catching fish and birds. For
These special shows are also scheduled at this this reason it is sometimes called seine
admission-free gallery:
Feb. 3-March 2—Marjorie Reed weed. It is also known as Colorado
March 3-April 5—Browned McGrew River hemp. Incidentally, this plant
April 6-May 15—Burt Procter is considered to be a great soil builder
like many other legumes, and its num-

36 / Desert Magazine / January, 1961


erous seeds are readily eaten by do-
mestic fowl and quail.
Milkweeds, of which there are many
kinds on our deserts, furnished some
of the finest and strongest warp and
weft materials for cloth-making. Some-
times the cloth, especially that to be
made into durable shirts, was orna-
mented with patterns made from hu-
man or other hair. Milkweeds of sev-
eral kinds provided strong fibers for
making fish-lines and for string to bind
arrowheads to the shafts of arrows. I
have in mind a beautifully made arrow
found recently in a cave near Twenty-
nine Palms in which fine milkweed
fibers bound onto the shaft not only
the stone arrowpoint but the feathers
as well. The milkweed furnishing the
longest fibers was the white-stemmed
milkweed (Asclepias albicam) of
southwestern Arizona, southeastern
California and adjacent Mexico. Its
finger-width stems sometimes reach a
length of 10 feet. The stalks were
soaked in water then repeatedly beaten
with a flat stone until the fibers sep-
arated.
Our aboriginal people early made
use of the durable fibers of rushes
(Juncus) which are sometimes called
The flowers are a white torch about CONTINUED
wire grass. The somewhat grass-like
dark - green leaves occur in large
bunches sometimes several feet across,
9»45 P.M. an inch and three quarters across on next page

and three to four feet high. Split jun-


cus leaves were used over coiled bun-
dles of grass (Epicampes) by the Ca- to the coming of the Spaniards our were well aware of its good qualities
huilla and other Indians to make bas- Southwest Indians had no sheep's wool and used it extensively. Even the lowly
kets. The varying shades of the leaves to use in weaving. Their only domes- wild iris was put to use. Its exceed-
produced the mottled effect in the ticated animal was the dog. The Nav- ingly thin but strong filaments were
basket designs so very pleasing to the ajo rug of wool, so beautiful with its used when extra soft thin threads were
eye. The Indians appreciated the lus- symmetrical decorative and colorful required. Indians climbed the steep
trous texture, usually brown in color, patterns, is a rather modern creation. canyons and into the mountains to
of the dried rush. Different types of Whether the looms used by these In- secure it.
juncus grass baskets served as flat dians were patterned after the Spanish
plates, shallow and deep bowls, flasks hand-loom is conjectural. The Nava- The strong flexible vines of the wild
with constricted necks, or woman's jos may have learned the art of rug grape were cut and used as rope to
caps. The larger baskets were used weaving from captive Pueblo women. carry heavy things or to tie together
as storage vessels. Water jugs were bundles of objects of considerable
But many of the pueblo and other weight. Of course the vines only
waterproofed with piny on resin. Southwestern Indians did have what served well their purpose while they
Baskets were also woven from strips we may call a cotton-wool. It was were still green.
of mesquite bark, or from small, split obtained from the various wild species
of Malvaceae, a plant group to which Each autumn came the Indians'
or whole willow withes. Black designs "annual" wild rabbit drives when
were made from the hooked seeds of cotton of commerce (Gossipium) be-
longs. Wild cotton fibers are very thousands of the luckless frightened
devil's claw (Martynia). Bark of the hares and cottontails were driven
mesquite (Prosopis) was sometimes short in comparison to those of culti-
vated cotton, yet string could be made against nets set up on poles or strung
pounded and worked over until very upon bushes. There men were stand-
soft, and then used to line the cribs from them and a cloth of sorts woven
to use in making garments. ing ready to club them to death. Some
of babies, or used for diapers. The of the meat was eaten at the time
inner bark of the cottonwood and Each cotton fiber is the outer part either raw or cooked, the remainder
elderberry similarity treated also came of a single elongated cell of the testa dried for winter consumption. The
into good use as a soft absorbant lin- or seed coat. The fiber loses its orig- skins were cut into strips which were
ing material. Doughnut-like rings five inal cylindrical form when drying, and twisted into cords or braided and then
or six inches in diameter, made of becomes a flat ribbon with convolu- sewn together or woven into blankets.
twisted cottonwood or mesquite bark tions. This gives the "cling" which These soft rabbit-fur blankets are really
and yucca fibers, were placed on the enables cotton to be spun. handsome articles and very warm. A
head to make more comfortable the few of them may be seen in museums.
There are a number of kinds of
work of carrying loaded baskets or A particularly good looking one is
nettles which when macerated in water
water jars. usually on display at the Palm Springs
yield a very strong fiber for the making
It must be remembered that prior of small cords. Our desert Indians Desert Museum. ///

January, 1961 / Desert Magazine / 37


Cactus Blossom... (continued)

n lyl Pure white petals spread open to their full glory. By six the next
I •lVI» morning all had folded up, their beauty done until next year.

PERSONALIZED Kuhns' "irons"—usually with their in- Kuhns four to 10 hours to make a
itials—for fireplace pokers. One man standard brand (cost: $4 to $15).
BRANDING IRONS from Iowa had Kuhns forge the entire
alphabet—26 branding irons—so his B r a n d laws vary c o n s i d e r a b l y
guests could burn their names on the throughout the nation regarding the
BY MAIL sides of his log cabin. Other popular registration of brand designs. In some
uses for branding irons: curtain rods, states the counties do the licensing,
wall embellishments, door stoppers, in others a state agency is charged

W ILLIAM L. KUHNS of Clay-


ton, New Mexico, uses his
knotty pine office walls for a
permanent business file. Kuhns has
candle holders, book ends.
One customer, a brand collector,
with making sure no two outfits have
the same brand. Some states have no
recording of brands. Usual cost of
has given Kuhns a standing order for registering a brand is $5. If your
developed an international mail order all the old irons that he lays his hands design is too close to an existing reg-
trade for custom-made branding irons, on—and in so doing Kuhns has run istered brand, the agency usually re-
and after he completes a job he scores across many he made 50 years ago draws it, incorporating the main fea-
the wall with the hot brand. when he first moved to Clayton. tures of your brand, then returns it
"It's the only way I know to keep Today's irons are vastly different for your approval. Of course, if you
up my records," says this 73-year-old from the old heavy pig iron models. don't intend to actually scar the hide
blacksmith. "When a customer wants Made of lightweight high carbon steel, of a dogie with your iron, no regis-
a repeat order, I look up the brand they have perforated handles which tration is necessary.
on the wall—and then go to work!" remain cool when the brand face is It takes all kinds of customers to
There are about 1000 brands on heated to red-hotness. And too, they make a mail order business, Kuhns
Kuhns' walls to date—initials, stars, are made with more attention today believes. An Easterner who had in-
crosses, hearts, fancy doodads. Most to prevent blotching on the animal's herited a Montana ranch, wrote to
of his customers are in the livestock hide. But, no one has come up with Kuhns for branding iron information
business, of course — including 13 a suitable substitute for hand-forging —the dude didn't know what they
ranchers in Hawaii. Some people use and hand-filing the brands. It takes were. ///
38 / Desert Magazine / January, 1961
CLASSIFIEDS

• Hew to Place an Ad: • EQUIPMENT-SUPPLIES ROYAL BLUE shattuckite and beautiful green
• Mail your copy and first-insertion remit- ajoite $4.75 per pound. Handmade sterling
tance to: Trading Post, Desert Magazine, silver jewelry set with turquoise, opals, agates.
CAMPING EQUIPMENT: Personally selected scout, Bud's Rock Shop, 1019 Whipple Street, Pres-
Palm Desert, Calif.
trail, family tents. Best quality United States cott, Arizona.
• Classified rates are 20c per word, $4 manufacturers. European pack equipment. Sat-
minimum per insertion. isfaction guaranteed. Send 25c for catalog.
OPALS AND sapphires direct from Australia.
Don Gleason's Campers' Supply, Northampton,
This month's best buy: cut sapphires. 1 blue
• BOOKS-MAGAZINES Massachusetts. Good practical equipment at
sapphire facet cut, 1 black star sapphire, 1
sensible prices.
cabochon sapphire, 1 blue star sapphire. All
READ THE Prospector's Guide. Tells how and weighing over 1 carat each. $18, free airmail.
where to prospect for minerals, etc. Send FOR SALE: complete camp outfit for two, like
Send personal check, international money or-
for application to United Prospectors, 701 Vl new. Miss Traill, 7125 Stafford Ave., Apart-
der, bank draft. Free 16 page list of all
East Edgeware, Los Angeles 26, California. ment 2, Huntington Park, California. See or
Australian gemstones. Australian Gem Trading
write today for a real bargain.
Co., 294 Little Collins Street, Melbourne, C.I.,
OUT-OF-print books at lowest prices! You name Australia.
it—we find it! Western Americana, desert and FREE CATALOG—World's finest lightweight camp-
Indian books a specialty. Send us your wants. ing and mountaineering equipment. Used on
Mt. Everest, Himalayas, Andes, etc. It's ex- ARIZONA GEMS. Eight different stones, tumble
No obligation. International Bookflnders, Box
pensive but absolutely unsurpassed! Gerry, polished and labeled, postpaid 60c. Also tum-
3003-D, Beverly Hills, California.
Dept. 107, Ward, Colorado. ble polished apache tears and amethyst at
$2.50 per pound while they last. Rock Park,
BOOK—20 formulas, $5. Cosmetics, perfumes,
10X SELF illuminating pocket magnifier. Examine 5050 East Van Buren, Phoenix, Arizona.
nice gift chemistry students. Big profits, your
own business. P.O. Box 1868, Hollywood 28, specimens anywhere anytime. A magnifying
California. glass with its own built-in light. $3 postpaid. GOOD QUALITY polished opalite baroques, as-
Emerald Distributors, Oakridge, Oregon. sorted sizes, fine for all types jewelry, $3.50
SO YOU Want to Start a Rock Shop, new book pound, postpaid. Cody Inn Curio Shop, RR 3,
by Arthur E. and Lila Mae Victor, 52 pages, SLIK TUMBLERS regular size and midgets, all Golden, Colorado.
price $2. Invaluable information for the be- grits and polishing powders, Frantom units,
ginning rock shop, or any "thumb-nail" sized saws, etc. We have the new M K diamond
ROCKHOUNDS AND craftsmen invited to visit
retail business. Interesting reading for any blades all at regular prices. Write us your
new gemcraft shop, 6276 Adobe Road, Twen-
one. By the same authors, Gem Tumbling and needs. Joseph S. Gentzler, P.O. Box 1292, tynine Palms. Grand opening November 10.
Baroque Jewelry Making, sixth edition, autho- Santa Ana, California. Featuring fluorescence.
ritative and recognized book of complete in-
structions. At your dealers or order direct, $2 VERSATILE 30-inch custom made diamond saw,
each, postpaid from Victor Agate Shop, South heavy construction, 12 x 30 inch capacity, • GEMS, DEALERS
1709 Cedar, Spokane 41, Washington. 8c tax $650. Paul Leech, Panaca, Nevada.
Washington delivery. RIVERSIDE CALIFORNIA. We have everything
• FOR WOMEN for the rock hound, pebble pups, interesting
"OVERLOOKED FORTUNES"-in the Rarer Min- gifts for those who are not rock hounds.
erals. Here are a few of the 300 or more Minerals, slabs, rough materials, lapidary sup-
you may be overlooking while hunting, fish- LADY GODIVA "The World's Finest Beautifier." plies, mountings, equipment, black lights. Why
ing, mining, prospecting or rock hunting: Ur- Your whole beauty treatment in one jar. Pro- not stop and browse? Shamrock Rock Shop,
anium, Vanadium, Columbium, Tantalum, Tung- tect skin against sun, wind. For free brochure 593 West La Cadena Drive, Riverside, Calif.
sten, Nickel, Cobalt, Titanium, Bismuth, Mo- write: Lola Barnes, 963 North Oakland, Pasa- OVerland 6-3956.
lybdenum, Selenium, Germanium, Mercury, dena 6, California.
Chromium, Tin, Beryllium, Gold, Silver, Plati-
num, Iridium, etc. Some worth $1 to $3 a DRY SKIN conditions solved with daily applica- VISIT GOLD Pan Rock Shop. Beautiful sphere
pound, others $25 to $200 an ounce. Learn tion of G'Bye Dry. Large jar prepaid for only material, mineral specimens, choice crystals,
how to find, identify and cash in -on them. $1. Try it now and be desert happy. Nevada cutting materials, jewelry, bolo ties, baroques,
New simple system. Send for free copy RX Drug, Boulder City, Nevada. spheres, bookends, paperweights, cabochons,
"Overlooked Fortunes in Minerals," it may faceted stones, fluorescents, jewelry findings,
lead to knowledge which may make you rich! A SOUTHWEST favorite—deep blue turquoise lapidary equipment and supplies, Navajo rugs,
Duke's Research Laboratory, Box 666, Dept-B, nugget earrings, sterling silver, gift boxed, sun colored desert glass—gold specimens, our
Truth or Consequences, New Mexico. $3. Yucca Bill, Box 958, Yucca Valley, Calif. specialty. John and Etta James, proprietors,
2020 North Carson Street on Highway 395
LOST MINES, buried or sunken treasure, bibliog- • GEMS, CUT-POLISHED north end of town. Carson City, Nevada.
raphy. Our research has 41 books, articles,
maps covering this fascinating subject. Com- AUSTRALIAN TUMBLED gemstones, 8 different CHOICE MINERAL specimens, rough and cut gem
plete list $2. Earth Science Enterprises, Park- polished baroques, identified, suitable for material, lapidary and jewelry equipment and
wood Drive, Madisonville, Kentucky. necklace or chain bracelet. $1.10 postpaid. supplies, mountings, fluorescent lamps, books.
Or 10 different polished baroques, identified, Valley Art Shoppe, 21108 Devonshire Street,
"GEMS & Minerals Magazine," largest rock hobby Chatsworth, California.
monthly. Field trips, " h o w " articles, pictures, from around the world. $1.25 postpaid.
ads. $3 year. Sample 25c. Box 687J, Mentone, Bensusan, 8615 Columbus Avenue, Sepulveda,
California. California. GEODES, CRYSTAL. Lined, complete, unbroken,
3" to 5", $1.50 postpaid. Many have inclu-
BOOKS: "PANNING Gold for Beginners," 50c. GENUINE TURQUOISE: Natural color, blue and sions, most are partially filled with loose,
"Gold in Placer," $3. Frank J. Harnagy, 701 Vz bluish green, cut and polished cabochons—25 tiny double terminated quartz crystals and
E. Edgeware, Los Angeles 26, California. carats (5 to 10 stones according to size) $3.50 clusters. Limited supply. Act Fast. Unusual
including tax, postpaid. 50 carats (10 to 20 present for a rockhound. Free list: gems and
HARD-TO-find books located. Millions available cabochons) $6.15 including tax, postpaid in minerals. The Vellor Co., P.O. Box 44(D),
through world-wide contacts. Book Land, Box U.S.A. Write for folder. Elliott Gem & Mineral Overland, St. Louis 14, Mo.
74561L, Los Angeles 4, California. Shop, 235 E. Seaside Blvd., Long Beach 2, Cal.

FREE BOOK Catalog of the Southwest—history, OPAL, AMETHYST, etc. 10 ringsize stones, ground BARGAIN GEMS! Wholesale prices, 10 for $1.
people, legends, lost treasure, Indians, nature, and polished ready to set, $5. Opals, deep Sample 14c. Loyd Casteel, 842 Birch, Depart-
gems, minerals and children's books. World's red, blue, green, golden flashing in all colors ment D, Sunnyvale, California.
largest all-desert book selection. Write for of the rainbow, direct from the mine, 15 for
your catalog today: Desert Magazine Book $5. Kendall, San Miguel d'Allende, Guanaju-
Shop, Palm Desert, California. ato, Mexico. MORE CLASSIFIEDS %
January, 1961 / Desert Magazine / 39
LADY'S SOLITAIRE birthstone ring, 61/2—7 mm,
round brilliant synthetic stone in sterling silver
mounting. This elegant ring is perfect for all
occasions. State month and size (whole sizes
5-9). Only $7.50, tax, postage included. Sat-
isfaction guaranteed. Worldwide Gems & Min-
CLASSIFIEDS erals, 1628 U t h Street, Sacramento 14, Calif.
Continued from preceding page
UNIQUE LOVELY bracelets of ten different
ATTENTION! FINE Indian artifact collectors. identified gems set flat on untarnishable gilt
Authentic, rare, museum pieces. Excellent
• INDIAN GOODS H.P. mounting. Choice of "Gems of the
condition. Beaded bag, Panamint Indian stor- World" or "Western Gems," $3 each. Also
age basket, large leather Indian doll in Wood- FINE RESERVATION-MADE Navajo, Zuni, Hopi choker-style necklaces to match, $3.75 each.
land cradleboard. Pictures, discriptions to jewelry. Old pawn. Hundreds of fine old bas- Tax, postage included. Bensusan, 8615 Co-
interested parties only. Other items. "The kets, moderately priced, in excellent condition. lumbia Ave., Sepulveda, California.
Coles'", 551 S.W. Coast Hiway, Newport, Navajo rugs, Yei blankets, Chimayo homespuns,
Oregon. pottery. A collector's paradise! Open daily
10 to 5:30, closed Mondays. Buffalo Trading ALUMINUM CHAINS! Dealers, write for whole-
Post, Highway 18, Apple Valley, California. sale price list on our fabulous line of non-
DESERT ROCKS, woods, jewelry. Residence rear tarnishing aluminum chains. Include $1 for
of shop. Rockhounds welcome. Mile west on AUTHENTIC INDIAN jewelry, Nava|o tugs, Chi- samples postpaid. Please use letterhead or
U.S. 66. McShan's Gem Shop and Desert mayo blankets, squaw boots. Collector's items. state tax number. R. B. Berry & Company,
Museum. P.O. Box 22, Needles, California. Closed Tuesdays. Pow-Wow Indian Trading 5040 Corby Street, Omaha 4, Nebraska.
Post, 19967 Ventura Blvd., East Woodland
Hills, Calif. Open Sundays.
STONE JEWELRY, bob's, key chains, mail orders
• GEMS, MINERALS - FOSSILS filled promptly. Small mineral boxed speci-
THREE FINE prehistoric Indian war arrowheads mens, 35c each plus postage. Cactus Rock
$1. Flint scalping knife $1. Rare flint thunder- and Gift Shop, Box 684, Tombstone, Arizona.
MIOCENE, EOCENE, plioscene fossils; 50,000
bird $3. All $4. Catalog free. Arrowhead,
shark teeth, 200 varieties intact shells; whale
Glenwood, Arkansas.
ribs, vertebrae, disks; petrified crabs. Free
retail, wholesale listing available. 25 different
INDIAN PHONOGRAPH records, authentic songs
• LODGES, MOTELS
Identified fossils $3. Malicks, 5514 Plymouth
Road, Baltimore 14, Maryland. and dances, all speeds. Write for latest list:
Canyon Records, 834 No. 7th Avenue, Phoenix, MELODY LANE Apartment Motel, 6259 Adobe
1, Arizona. Road, P.O. Box 66, Twentynine Palms, Cali-
FOUR NATURAL staurolites, cross on both sides, fornia. All electric, air-cooled, trees and patio,
for $1 postpaid. "Animals" assembled from SELLING 20,000 Indian relics. 100 nice ancient opposite post office, near super-market. Day,
uncut quartz crystals — "Rockhound," $1.25 arrowheads $25. Indian skull $25. List free. week or monthly rates.
each. Five assorted animals, $5.50 postpaid. Lear's, Glenwood, Arkansas.
Reasoner Rock Originals, Crown King Highway,
Bumble Bee, Arizona. AMERICAN INDIAN color slides. Superb mu- ROCK HOUND headquarters: Moqui Motel, Es-
seum specimens covering archeology and eth- calante, Utah—on Highway U. 54, phone MAr-
nology of Western Hemisphere. Excellent for ket 4-4210, Dyna and Mohr Christensen. Pack
FINE DOMESTIC and foreign crystals and mas- teachers, artists, collectors. Free list. American and Jeep Trips by appointment.
sive minerals. Please ask for free list. Con- Indian Museum, Broadway and 155th, N.Y. 32.
tinental Minerals, P.O. Box 1206, Anaconda,
Montana.
NAVAJO RUGS, genuine, direct from trading
posts. Large selection. From $11 to $660. • MINING
Crystals, Two Grey Hills, Yeis; single, double
• GEMS, ROUGH MATERIAL saddle blankets. Vegetable dyes and anilines. ENGINEERS, PROSPECTORS, geologists. Locate
Perfect Christmas gift for man's room, den, boron, lithium, strontium, uranium and other
TURQUOISE FOR sale. Turquoise in the rough or children's room. Desert Magazine Craft valuable minerals with the new always ready
priced at from $5 to $50 a pound. Royal Blue Shop, Desert Magazine Building, Palm Desert, fluorescent mineral detector. Detector opera-
Mines Co., Tonopah, Nevada. California. Open 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. seven days ates in daylight, uses no batteries, fits in shirt
a week after October 15. pocket and eliminates dark box. Is unsur-
passed for open pit uranium mining opera-
MINNESOTA SUPERIOR agates V2 to 1 inch tions. Price only $12.50. Free brochure. Es-
$1.35 pound postpaid; 1 to 2 inch $2.50 10 WARPOINTS $1.50; 6 arrowheads $1.50; 4
birdpoints $1.50; 2 spearheads $1.50; 2 gem- sington Products and Engineering, Box 4174,
pound postpaid. 3 polished Thompsonites $1 Coronado Station, Santa Fe, New Mexico.
postpaid. Frank Engstrom, Grey Eagle, Minn. points $1.50; 24" strand trade beads $1.50; 4
photographs framed relics, idols, beadwork,
masks, rugs, pipes, baskets $1.50. (Refunded
ASSAYS. COMPLETE, accurate, guaranteed. High-
WILL TRADE mixed obsidians for agate, or sell with $10 order.) Paul Summers, Canyon, Texas.
est quality spectrographic. Only $8 per sam-
gold sheen, silver sheen, olive green banded, ple. Reed Engineering, 620-R So. Inglewood
spider web, feather, ambers, etc., 60c pound
postpaid. Blacks for doublets, etc., 25c pound
• JEWELRY Ave., Inglewood, California.

postpaid. Colorful commons, 35c pound post-


paid. Ashby's, Route 2, Box 92, Redmond, GENUINE TURQUOISE bolo ties $1.50, 11 stone NATURAL PLACER gold nuggets and grains, $50
Oregon. turquoise bracelet $2. Gem quality golden troy ounce. Better price on quantities. Cash-
tiger-eye $1.75 pound, beautiful mixed agate ier's check or money order. Marcum Bielen-
baroques $3 pound. Postage and tax extra. berg, Avon, Montana.
CHRYSOCOLLA SLABBED 30c square inch, chal- Tubby's Rock Shop, 2420V2 Honolulu Ave.,
cedony roses 35c pound, rose quartz 50c Montrose, California.
pound, guaranteed satisfaction. Rogers Bros., $1 FOR gold areas, 25 California counties.
P.O. Box 662, 222 West Chapman, Orange, JEWELRY PARTS, get best service — bracelets, Geology, elevations. Pans $3, $2.50. Poke $1.
California. sweater clips, tools, bails, cuff links. Bell Fred Mark, Box 801, Ojai, California.
caps (special this month 20 No. 3324 sterling
caps $1 postpaid). Epoxy, earrings, jump-
GLASS FOR tumbling, 40 transparent colors at BERYLLIUM ASSAYS with gamma-neutron Beryl-
rings. Chains, clasps, key chains—bola slides,
40c per pound, ruby and flashed, ruby and lium analyzer. Presence or absence, $1.
tips and cords. Rings, pendants, brooches.
yellow at 70c per pound. All prices f.o.b. Quantitative BeO, $6. Boulder Scientific Co.,
Diamond blades. Safe delivery assured. We
plant, Brock Glass Co., Ltd., Santa Ana, Calif. like small orders. All items guaranteed. Send 250 Pearl, Boulder, Colorado.
3c stamp—postage on your catalog. Rock
COLORFUL AUSTRALIAN fire opal; rough or cut. Craft Folks, Box 424D-7, Temple City, Calif.
READ "SUCCESSFUL Gold Diving and Under-
No deposit. Approvals sent on request. See water Mining. Covers dredge construction,
before you buy. Free list. Write: Walker A SOUTHWEST favorite—deep blue turquoise underwater prospecting, everything you need.
"Opals Exclusively", 20385 Stanton Ave., nugget earrings, sterling silver, gift boxed, $2. Sea Eagle Underwater Mining Publica-
Castro Valley, California. $3. Yucca Bill, Box 958, Yucca Valley, Calif. tions, 1000 Date Street, Lompoc, California.

40 / Desert Magazine / January, 1961


DEATH VALLEY colorslides, also Rhyolite, Virginia DESERT TREASURES, primitive relics, purple glass,
MAPS City, desert scenes, Bodie. Sample and list 25c. gem stones, paintings, rock trips, information
Longstreet, 5453 Virginia, Hollywood 29, Cal. on Last Chance Canyon. Visit Roberta's in the
SECTIONIZED COUNTY maps - San Bernardino ghost town of Garlock, 12 miles east of Red
$3; Riverside $ 1 ; Imperial, small $1, large $2; Rock Canyon Highway 6, via Randsburg road,
San Diego $1.25; Inyo $2.50; Kern $1.25; • REAL ESTATE or 8 miles west of Randsburg and Highway
other California counties $1.25 each. Nevada 395. Mail inquiries answered. Roberta's, Box
counties $1 each. Include 4 percent sales tax. C, Randsburg, California.
Topographic maps of all mapped western ONE ACRE near Salton Sea, near Box Canyon,
areas. Westwide Maps Co., 114 West Third lovely soft well water, private road, shade and
Street, Los Angeles 13, California. seclusion, total price $5000. Write Ronald L. LARGE CHUNKS—2 Ib. to 25 Ib. desert glass,
Johnson, Box 162, Thermal, California. was crystal but now turning in sun, for patios
and flower arrangements. All prices f.o.b.
GHOST TOWN map: big 3x2 feet. California, plant, Brock Glass Co., Ltd., Santa Ana, Calif.
Arizona and Nevada, with roads marked. Plus FOR INFORMATION on desert acreage and par-
Treasure catalogue 100 items. $1, or American cels for sale in or near Twentynine Palms,
Treasure Hunter's Guide $2. Foul Anchor please write Silas S. Stanley, Realtor, 73644 FOR SALE: My collection of sun colored glass, an-
Archives, DM, Rye, New York. Twentynine Palms Highway, Twentynine Palms, tiques and unusual pieces. Mrs. A. E. Wyc-
California. koff, 11501 Davenport Road, Auga Dulce, Cal.
FABULOUS MINERAL Guide and map of Western
Mexico and Baja. For map and guide send $2 INVESTMENT PROPERTY between Palm Springs
to Mineral Guide, Box 24232, Los Angeles 24, and Salton Sea. Booming area. $125 acre. GENUINE "JOE Hall" handmade western boots.
California. 20-160 acres. Low down, low monthly pay- Also paratrooper, engineers, hunting, work
ments. Write: Cotton, P.O. Box 593, Coalinga, boots. Western shirts, pants. Free catalog.
California. Sellers Company, 8830OR Alameda, El Paso,
ROUTE MAP Pacific Crest Trail, 2153 miles Can- Texas.
ada to Mexico through 22 National Forests
and 6 National Parks in Washington, Oregon FOR SALE: Two-bedroom house, two level acres,
and California. 20-page folder $1. W. Rogers, Black Canyon, Arizona near Black Canyon • MISCELLANEOUS
2123 South Park Drive, Santa Ana, California. Highway between Phoenix and Prescott. Close
to rock hunting areas, fine scenery, well or
town water. $6000 cash, $6500 terms. Ralph ARTIST SUPPLIES of all kinds. Oil colors, water
BURIED TREASURE and lost mine map, 72 authen- colors, brushes, etc. Send us list of your needs.
Stuckey, Mariposa, California.
tic California locations, 19x24, beautiful four- R.C. Color Store, 1834 South Hill, Oceanside,
color with free gold nugget, $2 postpaid. California.
100-years-old Indian trade beads, approxi- FOR THE best in desert land at lowest prices
mately 24" strand, $4, 40" $6.50 postpaid. and easiest terms, send for free list to Pon
See famous old Gold Rush Museum, P.O. & Company, Box 546D, Azusa, California. PLASTIC EMBEDDING for fun and profit, no
Box 46, Amador City, California. oven. Make beautiful jewelry, decorative
panels, science specimens castings. Catalog
FOR SALE—Randsburg. My two bedroom fur-
25c, Natcol Plastics, Box 444, Yucaipa, Calif.
nished home. Electric range and refrigerator.
• OLD COINS Deeded. $1950 full price. Montana G. Cozad,
10900 Jamie Avenue, Pacoima, California. ULTRAVIOLET LAMPS from $14.50. Accessories,
RARE UNCIRCULATED Carson City mint dollars, tubes, filters, electrical parts, batteries avail-
1878, 1882-83-84-90-91, $10 each. 100-page able. Free literature. Radiant Ultra Violet
FOR SALE: Drive-in, root beer, soft ice cream,
catalog 50c. Shultz, P.O. Box 746, Salt Lake Products, Manufacturers, Cambria Heights 11,
hamburgers. 30 miles from Phoenix in fast
City 10, Utah. New York.
growing area. $4000 will handle. Robert
Anderson, 710 Roosevelt, Buckeye, Arizona.
SIMULATED ENGRAVED business cards $3.95
• PLANTS, SEEDS • TRAILERS-CAMPERS and $4.95 per thousand. Write for samples.
Tumble polished baroques $2.50 per pound
WILDFLOWERS SEEDS: New catalog offers over postpaid. Doney's Printing & Rock Shop, Box
FOUR-WHEEL-drive 3/4-ton 1956 GMC pickup.
600 different kinds of wildflower and wild 246, Lucerne, Lake County, California.
Camper, radio, heater, hubs. Clean, good
tree seeds. Catalog 50c. Clyde Robin, Carmel condition. $2000. 151 Laurel, Arcadia. EL
Valley, California. 8-5825.
SOUR DOUGH biscuit recipe and full directions
$1. Dutchoven or modern baking. Revive the
CACTI—MANY varieties of specimen plants only. RANGER STEEL camper, five windows, double lost art. Franks Murdock, Dalhart, Texas.
Send for list. Rosso's Cactus Nursery, 25399 bunks. Fits V2 or % ton pickup. Made for
Hiway 99, Loma Linda, California. '53, can be modified for newer. $250. 6116
East Cecilia Street, Bell Gardens, California.
CACTUS AND succulents from the deserts of the Keep your
Southwest. Free illustrated catalog. Davis
Cactus Garden, 1522 Jefferson Street, Kerr- • WESTERN MERCHANDISE DESERT MAGAZINES
ville, Texas. in attractive loose-leaf
LIGHT AMETHYST (Desert Hue) glass made in
molds 50-years old, pressed by old time
SPECTACULAR PLANT and blossom, reaches 10
method. Sugar bowls, old fashioned glasses,
feet in one season, easy to grow. Three
pieces $1. 2443 Merrywood, Pomona, Calif.
creamers, iced teas, wine glasses, etc., butter
dish and cover, mustard and cover, puff box
BINDERS
and cover at $1 each. Candy dish and cover
• PHOTO SUPPLIES and flower vases at $1.50 each. Also avail- Gold embossed on Spanish
able in crystal glass which will turn amethyst Grain Imitation Leather
in sun in approximately 12 months. All prices
COLOR SLIDES. Re-live your vacation trips. 3000
travel Kadochromes, parks, U.S., foreign, na-
f.o.b. plant, Brock Glass Co., Ltd., Santa Ana, Space for 12 magazines
California.
ture, etc. Free list (sample 30c). Send today. Easily inserted
Kelly D. Choda, Box 15, Palmer Lake, Colo.
MAC'S ORIGINAL timberline weathered wood. A BEAUTIFUL AND PRACTICAL ADDITION
PHOTOGRAPHS FROM Adams Diggings. Woman, Finished table or what-not shelf pieces, 6 TO YOUR HOME BOOK-SHELF
twin peaks, bear head, others. For information for $10 postpaid. Write for prices on patio
write: Jerry Rose" Studio, 5306 Menaul Blvd., pieces. Cody Inn Curio Shop, RR 3, Golden, Mailed Postpaid
N.E., Albuquerque, New Mexico. Colorado.
$3
5x7 COLOR enlargement lc with regular order GHOST TOWN items: Sun* olored glass, amethyst Send orders to:
from any size Kodacolor negative. Regular to royal purple; ghost railroads materials, DESERT M A G A Z I N E
price $1.25 or $1.26 for two. Quality finish tickets; limited odd items from camps of the
guaranteed. Arrow Camera Shop, Pottstown, '60s. Write your interest—Box 64-D, Smith, PALM DESERT, CALIFORNIA
Pennsylvania. Nevada.

January, 1961 / Desert Magazine / 41


u5t Hetwaan If on and Me

By RANDALL HENDERSON

I N NOVEMBER I was among the 18,000 persons who


trekked to Death Valley for the Annual Encampment of
the Death Valley '49ers. The program this season was
was telling about an old prospector whose eyesight was
failing, and who decided to take a day off and go fishing.
After sitting out in the sun for several hours casting his line,
he came back to camp with two lizards and a sidewinder.
of special interest because it included the dedication of a
new million-dollar museum financed jointly by the State He had been fishing in a mirage.
of California and the National Park Service. * * *
Actually, the 1,907,000 acres in the Death Valley Nat- This is being written in November, a few days after
ional Monument themselves comprise a colossal museum. the ballots were counted in the presidential election. The
Their geology reveals much of the story of evolution of long, and sometimes confusing, debate is over and I am
this planet over a period of millions of years, and the sure we are all grateful for that regardless of how we feel
artifacts recovered from ancient beach lines tell us some- about the outcome.
thing of the aboriginal life of its first human inhabitants. I am glad both the political parties this year turned to
But Death Valley is too big, much of it too inaccessible, younger men for leadership in the years ahead. Considering
and the greater part of its story too technical for any but the state of affairs today, both at home and around the
the scientists to interpret. And so there has been brought world, it is hard to escape the conclusion that the old-
together in one spacious building a series of graphs, ex- timers of my generation have created more problems than
hibits, dioramas and art work to tell the story in terms all they have solved. And so I am looking forward hopefully
can understand. to January 20 when there will be new and younger men
It is primarily a museum of ideas, not of things. There at the executive throttle—in the United States at least.
are ample exhibits—but only those necessary to illustrate Not since the days of Woodrow Wilson have we had
the many interesting facets of geology, zoology, botany, high level statesmanship in the White House. Franklin D.
prehistoric life and the known history of this interesting Roosevelt dealt with domestic problems very effectively,
land. but he failed to sense the challenge of Marxism as a world-
The tragic story of the original '49ers of the Jayhawker wide issue. Wilson's ideals were never realized because
party, and later of Jimmy Dayton, Henry LeMoigne and there were too many humans at home and abroad whose
the other single-blanket prospectors who succumbed to the vision had not advanced beyond the immediate horizon of
scorching summer heat of the Death Valley sink, have now profit-making.
become legend. Today several paved highways lead into In the final analysis, in a democracy, the people get just
the Valley, excellent accommodations are provided by the about the kind of government they deserve. I would like
Fred Harvey Company at Furnace Creek Inn and Ranch, to believe Americans are ready now for more enlightened
by Peggy Putnam at Stovepipe Wells hotel, and at Scotty's leadership than they have been getting in recent years—
Castle, and a trip to the Valley during the winter season and that the youth and energy of John Kennedy will bring
now may be a delightful experience. The new museum also vision and understanding of a new order to the White House.
makes it an educational experience. # * *
* * *
Recently I have been reading Peter Fark's book, Living
While in Death Valley I recalled a quotation from Earth. It is the story of the abundance and complexity of
George Palmer Putnam's book, Death Valley and Its life within the soil which we humans more or less take
Country. Palmer was writing about Charlie Walker, one for granted. In a teaspoon of good topsoil there may be
of the old desert rats at Beatty, Nevada. Charlie was a literally billions of bacteria, protozoa, fungi and algae.
surveyor and draftsman who spent his spare time—which Were it not true this land would be too sterile for human
was most of the time—following the desert trails in an habitation. The author also cited another scientific truth
old mongrel car looking for mineral riches. Also, he was which was rather devastating to my vanity. The basic
a humorist. He once suggested that Death Valley should elements of this earth may combine with new forms, but
be publicized as a fishing resort. Said he: "What you're they are never lost. That which decays today becomes part
after when you go fishing is to have a rest and be away of some new form of life tomorrow. An atom of nitrogen
from worries. The Valley's perfect for that. Your fly won't in my body may at some time in the past have been part
get caught in the willows. Your feet won't get wet, nor of the structure of a dinosaur, a viper, a fishworm or a
tuckered out chasing along a danged stream to find a head of cabbage.
better pool. And there'll be no fish to clean."
Perhaps that is a thought for racial segregationists to
And that recalls one of Hard Rock Shorty's yarns. He consider.
42 / Desert Magazine / January, 1961
Beautiful . . .Brand New . . .Unique —Artists featured in this new book—

r a i n t e rs R. BROWNELL McGREW

of the DON LOUIS PERCEVAL

Desert' JIMMY SWINNERTON

MAYNARD DIXON
ED AINSWORTH's newest book — biographical sketches of
some of the West's outstanding desert artists—all in one volume
containing:
CLYDE FORSYTHE
111 pages
90 color and halftone illustrations NICOLAI FECHIN
Large format (9% x 13%-inch page size)
Brilliant waterproof hard-back cover
ORPHA KLINKER
Exclusively desert, and warmly personal . . .

A round-up of painters who have loved the Desert Southwest, and BURT PROCTER
have used the desert's fascinating colors and forms and peoples as
subjects for their canvases.
PAUL LAURITZ

JOHN HILTON

CONRAD BUFF

BILL BENDER

(please odd 15c per book for mailing;


California residents also add 4 % sales tax)

Available by Mail From


DESERT MAGAZINE BOOK STORE, Palm Desert, Calif.
FIG TREE JOHN
HATS
That Won The West
(see story on page 10)

To a resurrected Billy the Kid or Wild


Hickok, the mechanical wonders ol the m
ern world would hardly seem more incredi
than the headdress we assign to Old W

vision melodramas.
MODERN WESTERN ROY BEAN
. . . the turned-up brim the Cahuilla Indian was . . . the "Law West of Pecos
belongs to the Jet Age dignified in his top hat wore a straw topper
The ghosis of Ihese boys from Yesterd
would surely marvel at all the bare hec
about them, and the lack of individuality
Ihose few hats that are in evidence. In 1
old days you could tell a great deal abi
a man and his mood by studying his hal a
the way ho wore it. Bill and Billy probal
would have difficulty lelling the sexes ap
if by some miracle they could participate
a 1961 group outdoor outing.

We present ihese drawings to set the n


ord straight in a few instances; and to h:
at the rich variety of headdress that on
spiced the Western scene.
WILD BILL HICKOK SAM HOUSTON BOB DALTON
. . . a flat-brim framed wavy . . . the Texas hero was . . . a conservative hat for
shoulder-length hair commanding in his "beaver" this famed outlaw

CONQUISTADOR

WESTERN SOLDIER DEATH VALLEY SCOTTY ANNIE OAKLEY


. . . the artist Remingion . . . a standard slouch type . . . a star was added as a . the Spanish plumes thai
helped popularize this model Stetson pulled down in front feminine touch conquered the Southwesi

PARK RANGER
WILLIAM BONNEY "TAME" INDIAN EASTERN DUDE . . . also favored by
. . . no dashing sombrero . . . the red man retained . . . those inclined to be engineers, geologists
for Billy the Kid his feather "tony" wore derbies and surveyors

SHORTY HARRIS ROCKHOUND


SELDOM SEEN SLIM HARRY OLIVER . . . another Death Valley . . . big hats are a nuisance
. . . the famous Death Valley . the Old Mirage Sales- character's Sunday hat in small cars
prospector's hat choice man's trademark topper

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