Desert Magazine 1945 January
Desert Magazine 1945 January
Desert Magazine 1945 January
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M A I N E
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By E. A. BRININSTOOL
Hollywood, California
Wilhelm's ''Vagabond House," Thousand Palms Oh, glorious desert country! Your magic spell I know!
Your lure is strong, resistless, when from your depths I go!
Oasis, California. Wilhelm now is serving with Your wild wastes call and beckon in accents glad and true,
U. S. army in France. And your calm stretches soothe me when I return to you!
JANUARY, 1945
:-.
. H.
Photo
<? r a P h taken by Evans in Death Valley.
This is a comparatively recent picture which has
been very popular with the salon juries.
Athe
If you were to go into the Floyd B. Evans studio in Pasadena when the
artist-photographer was in the midst of his work you would find the place
all cluttered up with prints and mounts and acids and equipment. But out
of this disorder comes some of the finest salon prints exhibited in United
States in recent years—prints that show the desert in all its natural charm.
Evans has his own formula for photography—both in the field and in the
studio. If you are interested in knowing why his work is so popular with
the juries which judge salon prints, here are some interesting glimpses of
the man at work.
By JOHN HILTON
f 4- NE OF the reasons why pictures from the fact that during the year ending painting. He rented a studio in Pasadena,
\^y of the desert Southwest have occu- June 30, 1943, he placed 127 prints in 46 California, from Edward P. McMurtry,
pied so important a place in the in- international salons, and most of them recognized authority in the carbro printing
ternational photography salons held in were desert pictures. process. In that atmosphere, Evans first be-
United States during recent years is— Evans did not intend to be a photo- came interested and then enthusiastic over
Floyd B. Evans. grapher. When he gave up a business photography as an art.
When Evans takes a picture of the des- career in Chicago a few years ago to move His first public recognition in his new
ert it is a work of art, as you may judge West, he planned to spend his leisure time field of interest came in 1940 when he sub-
JANUARY, 1945
mitted four prints in the annual News and large camera, his favorite for outdoors The final, and to me the most interest-
Pictorial salon sponsored by Kent Univer- being the 4x5 Speed Graphic with pan- ing phase of the studio was the actual mak-
sity in Ohio. All four were accepted. With chromatic film. ing of the salon prints. Floyd had sifted his
that encouragement the Pasadena artist- hundreds of shots and settled down to a
He believes that color photography will few that he thought had real promise.
photographer really went to work in ear- gain steadily in popularity, and that event-
nest. Then work began in the darkroom. There
ually when costs are lowered and processes the floor was littered with discarded
But he did not attain his record as high simplified the amateurs will be taking prints. Floyd is a perfectionist and many
man in the salons without many disap- more color pictures than black and white. times makes a dozen tries with a film be-
pointments. He experimented with various fore he gets the effect he wants.
I had the good fortune to accompany
kinds of trick shots—sliced fruits, nuts and
Floyd on one of his photographic jaunts. After the first test, he decides on the
bolts, and other commonplace items which
It remains in my memory as one of the portion of the original film he wishes to
once were quite popular with "arty" pho-
most completely pleasant trips I ever have use. Sometimes it is a relatively small area
tographers. At various times he experi-
taken. It led as on a loop route through of the negative. Then this is enlarged to
mented with almost every type of subject
Flagstaff and Cameron, Arizona, Monu- salon size and studied. Some spots are too
from nudes to snow scenes. But he derived
ment Valley and Blanding, Utah, Mesa dark to suit him—others too light. The
little satisfaction in the passing fads of
Verde ruins in Colorado, Shiprock and picture is made over and dodged with his
photography.
Gallup in New Mexico, the Petrified For- hand or some other object to correct these
Then he found one field that fascinated est, Painted Desert and the great Meteor
him beyond all others. He made his first things. The print is still probably a little
Crater of Arizona. We traveled without light in the upper left corner so it goes on
trip to Death Valley—and "discovered" any set schedule and stopped when either
the desert. the floor and another is made. Finally one
one saw something that pleased him. approaches the point where Floyd ap-
His enthusiasm for desert photography It was on this trip that I first saw Evans proves, and it is laid aside for further work
never has cooled—and his pictures reflect in action. He kept his Speed Graphic with- such as spotting and shading. Salon pho-
his feeling. The desert, in turn has been in reach at all times, and was out of the tography is not as simple as it looks and
good to him. It has furnished him with a car pointing it at some object of interest Floyd's severest critic is Floyd Evans.
high percentage of his winning salon on a second's notice. He doesn't bother
prints. His picture "The Wind Passed By" The final result is a picture that brings
with a tripod. It would cramp his style. I
(Desert Magazine cover this month), a warm glow to the heart of the desert
had seen some of the very "arty" photo-
taken in the sands of northern Death Val- dweller—and to the uninitiated in a city
graphers who invade the desert loaded
ley has been accepted by 69 international thousands of miles away, a great desire to
down with a half dozen different cameras
salons. see this strange land that lends itself so
and a suitcase full of attachments. At first
Studio pictures still are represented on well to the photographer's art.
I believed that all this sort of thing was
the Evans lists, but after that first trip to necessary to good picture taking. Evans When I saw the finished print of "Na-
Death Valley, most of his film has been works with his Speed Graphic, one yellow vajo Children," all the thrills of that aft-
exposed out of doors. In the desert he has filter, and plenty of film. (This was be- ernoon in Monument Valley's Navajo
found subject matter that needs no trick fore the war.) camps returned in memory. Those two
handling. He doesn't have to roast, freeze little Indian children were part of a large
or boil in oil any of his negatives to make I soon lost track of the number of pic- family that had posed with a dignity and
them interesting. The desert itself, un- tures he took. The film supply seemed in- lack of self-consciousness seldom found in
marred by man or any of his works, is all exhaustible and so did he as long as sub- professional models. This particular pose
that he needs. If people do appear on ject matter presented itself. The day Harry was one of dozens in which these children
his desert, they are desert dwellers—not Goulding took us out to visit the camps of appeared, but Floyd had recognized the
imported models or visiting dudes dressed some of his Navajo neighbors must have fact that this was THE picture of the day.
in western costumes. been an all-time high for film consump-
tion by one photographer. The light was After prints are made and mounted they
I asked Evans why he prefers desert perfect, Harry is always an excellent guide, pass one more final test before he sends
subjects. "The answer to that is easy," he and the Navajo liked Floyd Evans. When them on their way to the salons. This is the
said. "It is the sunlight." Then he pointed we returned to the trading post that night, "living test." He hangs them in his dining
out how all-important is the matter of he had enough exposed film to have kept room or bedroom for a few weeks to see
lighting in the taking of good photo- the average photographer busy in the dark- how they "wear." If they look as good to
graphs. It is possible to secure good artifi- room for weeks. him after he has seen them every day for a
cial lighting in the studio—but on the period of time, then he considers them
desert the sunlight and clear atmosphere I watched him in his studio later going worthy. If they don't pass this test they
combine to furnish just the right high- over all those films. The darkroom looked are discarded.
lights and shadows for whole ranges and like rush season in a professional photo
entire landscapes. Floyd Evans did not finishing plant. The whole house was When I asked Floyd for prints to be
say this, but I suspect that he regards studio strewn with test prints. The housekeeper used in Desert Magazine, my request in-
lighting fixtures and gadgets as somewhat was frantic trying to keep things tidy, but cluded a picture of himself. It brought out
of a bother—just as he looks upon the Floyd was happy. About the only spots a very interesting and significant side of
use of a tripod in the field. around the place not cluttered up with the man. Of the thousands of negatives in
prints were the parrot cage and the cactus his files, there was not a recognizable pic-
Evans has little preference between ture of himself. In spite of his protests, I
early morning and late afternoon light. But garden. But it was great fun—almost as
insisted that he pose for one.
there must be shadows, and he seldom much as the trip itself. Friends dropped in
takes his camera out at midday. Cloud and after removing a stack of prints from Folks who seldom or never have the op-
effects generally are best on the desert in a chair or sofa, Floyd invited them to sit portunity of visiting the desert, owe a debt
the late afternoon. down and then he and I would vie with of gratitude to Floyd Evans for the super-
In the absence of a tripod, Evans seldom each other in recounting the high points of lative job he is doing of bringing the des-
clicks his camera at a shutter speed of less the expedition—illustrated of course by ert to them through his nation-wide salon
than 1/lOOth of a second. He prefers a more prints. exhibits.
JANUARY, 1945
Old customs and old beliefs
still linger in the Indian Pueblo of
Zufii in northwestern New Mex-
ico. Women still follow the steep
trail to Sacred mountain east of
the village to supplicate the
House Blessing gods who dwell
there. Zufiis still look to Salt Lake,
ten miles away, as their mecca,
where dwell the spirits of depart-
ed tribesmen. And tradition and
ritual bound the simplest tasks of
daily life, as well as the pattern
for ceremonial days—as Rosita
learned to her dismay when she
returned to her home after having
lived in the modern ways of the
white man. Her friend Margaret
Stone tells how Rosita took some
shortcuts through these formali-
ties and effected a compromise
which pleased not only her "cor-
rect" mother but the headman of
the tribe as well.
JANUARY, 1945
Domestic duties are shared by Zuni
women. To this one falls the responsi-
bility of baking bread for several
families. Baking still is done in out-
door adobe ovens. With the exception
of her modern wristwatch and leather
shoes this woman is dressed in tradi-
tional Zuni style. A pitami, or large
handkerchief trimmed with ribbons,
hangs over her back, as does her
braided hair.
JANUARY, 1945
prepared, tempered and oiled. Now used, and sturdy women go up and down the fateful day in 1539 when Coronado's
everybody was crowding in to see it and ladders, back and forth from house to kiva, gold seeking Conquistadors sacked the vil-
congratulate Rosita on her fine work. She with great baskets piled high with white lage, and drove its inhabitants to their
looked pleased, but put off making the and brown loaves. They carry these baskets sacred Corn mountain, the Zuni Indians
hewa mixture for wafer bread until the on their heads, never needing to balance have figured in Southwestern desert his-
next day. Real bread was needed and she them with a touch. tory. They, more than any other pueblo,
mixed a huge batch of yeast bread from Zuni women are beautiful. A great part adhere to the customs, traditions and full
flour bought at the trading post. of their beauty comes from the proud religious rites of their ancestors.
Zuni women pride themselves on their graceful carriage, and I think I know how What the return of the hundred or more
beautifully browned fragrant: loaves of they won their grace and poise—those Zuni men serving in armed forces, and the
bread, wh'ch they bake in the beehive heavy baskets on their heads. I remember number of war worker girls, will do
ovens of adobe along the river's edge or in having to walk up and down stairs with a toward modernizing this ancient pueblo
the plaza. Because there are so many duties book on my head because my lady grand- remains to be seen.
confronting Indian women, they have mother thought I was inclined to slump! In the meantime Rosita, who longs to
learned to apportion their work, and some- Rosita delivered her loaves for baking be working in an airplane plant or thinks
times one woman does the baking for a and went back to mix and bake her first what a wonderful thing it would be to wear
dozen neighborhood women in one day. hewa. The mother told her exactly what a WAC uniform, cares for the helpless
The women of each house mix their bread to do. children and crippled mother dependent
in big granite d'shpans and leave it covered "Put your hewa bowl half full of water, on her. Perhaps some day she can look
with clean muslin close to the corner fire- and take enough salt to fill the hollow of back on the everyday battle she fisjhts there
place. In the morning when baking is to against superstition, dirt and disease, and
your cupped hand. Put that in the meal you
be done, it is worked down and a'lowed to realize that her's was a major conflict,
have ready in the second bin, and then stir bravely fought and valiantly won.
rise the second time, then kneaded and it all together in the water—stirring, of
shaped into loaves. Sometimes these loaves • • •
course, toward the left."
are put in pans, but more often they are HOSTEEN JOHN, FRTEND OF
That was the recipe, and I waited with
carried out on a smooth board to the hot THE NAVAJO- IS DEAD
interest to see what that unleavened, non-
oven and slipped in on the meal-sprinkled The Southwest lost one of its most color-
shortening style of batter would produce.
floor. ful pioneers when John Wetherill, aged
The cooking slab was smoking hot and
The woman selected to do the baking 78, of Kayenta, Arizona, died at Ash Fork
the mother asked to be placed in front of
has been at the ovens since earlv morning, November 30. Wetherill was on his way to.
it. She brushed away the crushed juniper
kindling her fires from bark and gradually Needles, California, seeking a lower alti-
twigs and berries, and exposed the beauti-
adding cedar wood until the oven is tude for the benefit of his health, when
fully smooth black surface. Tucking her
thoroughly heated. She has perhaps four or death came. He has been in failing health
thumb back into her palm, she dipped the
five ovens heating at once, and when the for the last two years.
four fingers of her right hand in the thin
first customer appears, she opens the rock mixture and with one swift swipe, she Respected by his neighbors, both white
door, shovels the hot coals out and puts covered the far side of the stone from end and Indian, John Wetherill played a lead-
them into the next oven, takes a long to end. Three more passages along the ing role in both archeological and geo-
handled broom made of juniper twigs and stone and it was covered. Instantly she graphical explorations in Arizona, Utah,
dips it into a pail of water. With this she lifted the thin wafer off and laid it flat New Mexico and Colorado during the last
swipes the floor clean of ashes, then throws on the hearth. When she had cooked about 38 years.
a handful of coarse meal in on the floor twenty of the wafers, she began laying He led Dr. Byron Cummings and the
before placing the loaves, which are sl'd them back, one by one, on the heated stone. first party of white Americans to see the
into the oven on the broad end of a paddle As soon as they touched it they were flex- Rainbow natural bridge in 1909, (Desert
shaped pole. The door is closed when the ible enough to be folded twice and rolled Magazine, May '40). Previous to that he
oven is full, and the baker knows just how into cylinders about the size of small ears had been one of the first to discover and
long a period should elapse before it is of corn. These were piled on a woven explore the Mesa Verde Indian ruins in
time to unchink the stone and take the plaque. Colorado, and had led an archeological ex-
sweet smelling nutty bread out for delivery pedition to the Cliff Palace in the region
to its owner. She either can take her pay "You try it now, my daughter. The
stone is true and shows that your heart is which has since been made a national park.
for the work by accepting a loaf of bread
right." Rosita looked wildly at me for help, "Hosteen John" as he was called by his
from each customer, or they each will give
but meeting a baffled look, she crouched friends on the reservation, knew the Na-
her two cups of flour for her labor.
beside her mother and began what seemed vajo better than most white men, always
Rosita had not yet learned how to regu- to her a hopeless job. Her first attempt was their friend, and his passing will be
late the heat of the outdoor ovens so in spattered the thin mixture here and there mourned by friends of many races and
lieu of her turn at baking she paid double but she grimly set her teeth and kept creeds.
toll on baking done for her. When she trying. She was a very proud daughter of John Wetherill was born at Leaven-
was summoned to bring her loaves to the the Zunis when she lifted her first perfect worth, Kansas, September 24, 1866. In
oven I walked along and helped carry wafer from the stone. Each time she spread 1906 he came to Arizona and during the
them. The ovens are bits of heaven for the mixture she learned what not to do if past 38 years made his home on the Navajo
shivering dogs and cold bare-bottomed she wished to avoid blistered fingers. reservation. During most of that time he
little boys. In winter time the youngsters, When the mother said she would finish operated the Kayenta Trading post as a
with just short cotton shirts clothing them, the task Rosita rose gratefully and accom- partner of Clyde A. Colville.
linger near the ovens and lean their chilled panied me to the door. Surviving members of his family are his
backs against them. They are very careful "Gee "Whiz," she said, examining a wife, Louisa Wade Wetherill, author of
to keep out of the way of the busy women, burn. "I hope this war ends soon!" Traders to the Navajo, and his son Benja-
and woe to any urchin who kicks up dust • • • min Wade Wetherill, now in the Aleutian
or causes any dirt to touch the precious Zuni Indian Pueblo, 40 miles south of Islands.
loaves. On days preceding village dances Gallup, New Mexico, is the largest Indian Funeral services were held at Kayenta on
or special ceremonies, all the ovens are pueblo, with more than 2000 people. From Sunday, December 3.
Oasis In the
Chuckwallas
Prehistoric Indians left their record on the rocks at Corn
By RANDALL HENDERSON spring before the white man came this way.
Indians who once camped bowl-like valley in California's Chuck- U. S. 60 became a paved highway. But the
beneath the native Washingtonia awalla mountains will start with a summer hospitality of our reception when we
palms at Corn spring left a rather day in 1920 when I helped push a wooden- reached there was reward enough for the
detailed record of their life in this remote wheeled motor car up the sandy wash that effort.
oasis. It is incised in the boulders close by serves as the only road to this ancient For those were the days when Gus
the little spring of clear cool water. waterhole, and saw the oasis for the first Lederer lived in a little cabin among the
But no white man, or living Indian, has time. palms—and left his door unlatched to all
yet deciphered those prehistoric glyphs. The trip across the sandy floor of Chuck- who came that way. For many years Gus
And so my story of the spring and its awalla valley and up the wash to the spring was the self-appointed guardian of Corn
guardian palm trees snuggled deep in a was a rugged adventure in the days before spring. He kept the waterhole clean. He
C H U C K AW A L L A
r * T ° - f feiHL
'*..
JANUARY, 1945 13
fed the quail and burros that came to his Chocolate mountains to Brawley and in his body lies beneath a mound of stones
door. He built a fence around the two fig six weeks made the grubstake that kept at Aztec well, three miles up the wash from
trees planted there at an earlier date by an him in flour and bacon and beans for the Corn spring, placed there in accordance
unknown hand. other 46 weeks. with his last wish, by his friend and neigh-
To his friends, Gus was the Mayor of Between prospecting excursions Gus bor Desert Steve Ragsdale. There are two
Corn spring. He was a prospector who spent his idle hours with paint brush and mounds on the little mesa above Aztec
staked many claims but never found any canvas. His was the untutored art that well. The other marks the resting place of
pay ore. During the annual melon harvest knows no rules except to transfer to canvas Tommy Jones, another of the veteran
in Imperial valley he would herd his as faithfully as possible the beauty and prospectors of the Chuckawallas. Gus and
jalopy down the sandy road through the color of the desert landscape. And con- Tommy disagreed on every subject under
sidering the fact that he had never the sun. They always were arguing about
attended an art class, he did amazingly politics or rocks or art—and perhaps that
Side by side on a rocky mesa near well. I doubt if he ever sold a picture—or was the reason they were so attached to
Aztec well, three miles up the arroyo even tried to. He just painted for the hap- each other. Life could become very dull
from Corn spring, are the graves of piness that comes from creative work—and in a place so isolated—but it was never
Gus Lederer (lejt) and Tommy gave the pictures to friends who liked boresome when these two prospectors were
Jones, veteran prospectors in them. together.
this area. Gus died in December, 1932, and today I had planned to write the story of this
Chuckawalla oasis for one of the early
issues of Desert Magazine. Then word
came that careless campers had left a fire
which swept through the palms, burning
the dry fronds on many of the older trees.
I did not want to tell Desert readers about
a pretty desert oasis that overnight had
become charred and ugly. And so the
story was postponed.
I am glad to report now that Corn spring
has regained most of its former charm.
Fortunately, fire seldom kills the native
palm trees. The Washingtonia filiferas at
this oasis are well supplied with water.
The skirts of dry fronds that once reached
the ankles, now come barely to the knees.
But perhaps even a desert oasis should
make some concession to the passing fads
of dress.
The number of trees has increased.
Twenty-four years ago I counted 57 palms,
including all those over three feet in
height. Today there are 82 vigorous trees
that rear their stately heads above the
thicket of mesquite and catsclaw and
arrowweed which grows at their base.
I visited the oasis late in November, my
first trip there in five years. The road up
the wash is still just a winding trail, but it
has been packed by rain and travel and I
made it easily in high gear.
That night I spread my sleeping bag in
a little clearing at the foot of the palms.
I had the oasis all to myself, but there is
no loneliness when the breeze is rustling
the dry fronds overhead and night birds
are on the wing.
Among the palms where Gus Lederer's
cabin once stood is a new concrete-walled
cottage. It is empty. I was told by one of
the prospectors later that a mining man
with claims in the surrounding hills had
planned to make this his headquarters
during the development of his property.
He did not know that all the land within
1320 feet of the spring has been with-
drawn from permanent settlement: by is found all over the area, and occasionally today the range is dotted with monuments
federal order, and that Riverside county a flint dart point. Gus had several metates erected by men who have found a trace of
supervisors have established this oasis as a which he had found near the oasis. color.
county park. He learned about these reser- There was food and water here for the But while gold-seekers have tramped
vations after the cabin was built—and it aborigines. From the palm trees they could the hills in vain search for wealth in this
has never been occupied. obtain an annual harvest of sweet-skinned region, the rockhounds have found the
The next morning I drove up the arroyo seeds. Great gnarled mesquites grow in the Chuckawallas a happy hunting ground.
to Azte: well to visit the graves of Gus oasis. Palms gain dignity with age, but Geodes are gathered from outcropping
and Tommy. The mounds are well pre- not the mesquite. They become twisted ledges in many places and much cutting
served, thanks to the interest of A. B. and bent with years—but they continue to material of agate, chalcedony, jasper, car-
Chaney, another of the old-time Chuck- grow a fine crop of beans, and mesquite nelian and sagenite has been recovered—
awal'a prospectors. Chaney lives in a cabin beans were a staple item in Indian diet. and much more awaits the quest of future
by the well. Periodically he gees down to Also, the catsclaw were heavy with beans collectors.
Corn spring to clean out the waterhole, when I last visited the s;pring. There al-
but except for this volunteer service on his ways has been some doubt in my mind as Corn spring is little known to the rock-
part, the oasis is unattended, and un- to whether or not the Indians used cats- collecting fraternity for the reason that
occupied except by an occasional camper. claw beans for food. It almost requires a little material has been found in the
vicinity. The rockhounds usually camp at
Miners and others at various times have sledge hammer and an anvil to crack one Wiley's well or Chuckawalla well or
sought to establish a private right to the of these seeds. But probably the aborigines Chuckawalla spring, the latter two being
water in Corn spring. The foundations of found a way. about three miles apart.
an old mill where ore from the Red Cloud Somewhere up in the hills above Aztec
mine 12 miles away once came for process- well is a little flat marked by weirdly Corn spring oasis is mainly a watering
ing, still may be seen. But that was in the eroded sandstone boulders—Monkey flats place for prospectors, and for those week-
days before the federal government with- it is called. Dick Emerson of Calexico has enders hardy enough to brave the sandy
drew this waterhole from private entry. told me about the place, but I never have trail up the wash.
Now the oasis belongs to the public, where visited it. Corn spring is a typical American oasis
all may come and camp in the shade and Gus Lederer always expected to find —and thanks to the interest of local people
replenish canteens from the spring. rich ore in the Chuckawallas. Countless and the foresight of the federal govern-
Indians who once lived by Corn spring claims have been staked out in years past, ment it is to be preserved both as a source
have left abundant evidence of their but with the possible exception of Red of life-giving water in the heart of a very
sojourn here. Many of the rock faces Cloud mine, pay ore never has been arid region, and as a haven of rest for
across the arroyo from the spring are uncovered in quantities to insure sustained those who come to the desert for peace and
covered with petroglyphs. Broken pottery operations. The search continues, and relaxation.
JANUARY, 1945 15
If birds are subject to the same emotions as hu-
man beings, the fledgling woodpecker in this story
no doubt hopped off the fence post for his first flight
with much the same scared feeling that a flying
cadet has on his initial solo. And the parent birds
felt no less pride in their youngster than does the
average American father and mother when their
GI son writes home that he is now a solo pilot.
Baby woodpecker has just left his post-hole for the first
and last time. A moment after this photo was taken he
made a "50-yard solo flight to a nearby mesquite.
C' ARLY last summer my wife and I were the uninvited, nest's single occupant in the bottom of the hole. Others, prob-
r though none the less appreciative, guests at a coming-out ably three or four, must have recently left the nest for this last
party for a young ladder-back woodpecker, the species one was well feathered and almost as large as the adults them-
known as Dryobates scalaris. It is the little black and white bird selves. No wonder, with eight helpings of supper!
of the mesquite and agave. Just before seven, although it was still quite light, the little
It happened at our deserted rancho near Noria, New Mexico, bird gave a final, ear-piercing shout and disappeared into his
where we had gone for a weekend of bird study. It was while deep nest for the night. The summer sun soon dropped behind
we were spreading our bedrolls and preparing supper that we the western mountains to relinquish the desert to the silent starry
learned of the approaching fete. evening, and we turned in to dream of photographing nest after
A loud shrill cry from the direction of the empty corral nest of ladder-back woodpeckers.
focused our attention on a small, striped, long-nosed bird cling- At 5:45 the next morning a woodpecker reveille put a wel-
ing to the side of a dark fence post. It was a woodpecker, our come end to a sleepless night that had been filled with every-
first scalaris of the season. That in itself was enough to get ex- thing from a horned owl duet on the top of the creaking wind-
cited about. But when the gay, loud-mouthed fellow was joined mill to a hungry rodent tripping over a pile of tin cups and
by a second, and then the two by a third which poked its feath- plates. The sun, just gilding the tops of the cottonwoods, had
ered head out of a heretofore unnoticed hole in the post, our not yet touched the dark nest-post. But apparently sunlight had
elation knew no bounds. Here, under our very noses, was the little to do with the young ladder-back's appetite. With his little
occupied nest-hole of a pair of ladder-backs. head thrust far out of the black hole he began demanding food,
During the next half hour we watched the parent birds make food, and more food in a voice so loud, so shrill and so unceas-
eight trips, beaks laden with insect food, to the nest. Between ing that after a few minutes of listening to it I was about to go
the second grub and third pupae courses, while the adults were searching for grubs and ants myself.
foraging far afield, we hurried to the post to find out how many Within an hour we had finished breakfast, thrown together a
young birds were sharing all this food. By means of a flash-light crude blind of army cots, and set up our camera equipment a
and some prodigious eye-straining we were just able to see the few feet from the post. Two cameras were focused on the nest
Breakfast is served. Adult's beak is thrust far into the little one's throat. Apparently feeding this time was done by regurgitation
since no food was seen in the beak.
JANUARY, 1945 17
and a half he repeated this routine, peering coyly out, inflict-
ing one raucous shout upon the desert stillness, then disappear-
ing into the hole. Finally, at 1:30 papa ladder-back appeared
with some juicy morsels. The ravenous fledgling almost swal- T R U E O R F A L S E tory" geography,
lowed papa and all. mineralogy, bot-
Another hour's inactivity, wherein the only sound was an any and desert lore—just to see how much you know about
occasional dull thump from within the post, ended with the sud- the Great American desert, past and present. You would
den appearance of the two adults. Both took up positions at one have to be a wizard to score 100 per cent. The average
corner of the corral some ten posts away from the nest. Neither person will answer less than 10 questions correctly. If
seemed to have food for the nestling. They made no effort to you know 15 of the answers you are better informed than
approach closer, but clung to their posts and cried loudly and most of the desert rats. Answers are on page 34.
long. The young one answered them, and this weird trio kept
up for about ten minutes. Af first we did not appreciate what 1—A Chuckawalla is a venemous reptile.
was happening. But the adults' refusal to approach the nest, True False
which could not be explained by fear of the now familiar cam-
eras, led us to believe that more was taking place than met the 2—Nevada and Idaho are adjoining states.
eye. At 2:45 our suspicions were borne out. Without the slight- True False
est warning the little ladder-back pulled himself out of the hole
to cling a bit uncertainly to the side of the post. 3—The famous old Goldfield mining camp is located in
Death Valley. True False
JANUARY, 1945 19
Left—Three-toed dinosaur footprint from Triassic formation, Utah. Total length of track, 16 inches. Right—Another dinosaur
track from Triassk of Utah. This apparently is track of smaller animal of different species. Photos by Ray Alf, Claremont, Calif.
sole record of the dense dinosaur popu- made them. In the case of the tracks that different species of dinosaurs and very
lation that once lived in and around Ray Alf found we can say that the animal closely resemble the footprints from Con-
Kanab is preserved in these ancient foot- was large, probably 20 feet high, and that necticut valley where the track of one
prints left in the old muds and sand bars it walked like a man. When it made the giant named Eubrontes divaricatus is
now hardened into rock. tracks it was in no hurry for the tracks are almost a duplicate of the 16-inch track
This dinosaur track locality at Kanab is sharp and show that he set his feet down from Kanab. All the evidence indicates
not the only place where a vast concourse and lifted them up without splashing the that these dinosaurs were related species
of reptilian giants had left their footprints. mud which was a trifle too wet for ideal and ranged generally throughout North
There was something like it in the cele- casting and would have splattered if he had America and lived in the same type of cli-
brated dinosaur localities of the Connecti- been in a rush. mate*and surroundings.
cut valley, another formation which, like The Kanab tracks are those of many The Triassic was one of the most inter-
the Chinle, was a deposit esting intervals in the
of the Triassic age. Here earth's history. It was a
again the scarcity of bones time of reorganization
caused species after spe- after the great depression
cies (98 in all) to be of the Permian period
known only by the tracks when for at least 15,000,-
the animals left in the 000 years, hard times
mud of swamps and on were general throughout
the sandy banks of Trias- the whole earth. Ancient
sic rivers. Fortunately an and outmoded animals
expert sometimes can tell and plants were passing
a great deal about an an- out of the picture to give
imal from its tracks alone. place to newer but still
Since paleontologists fantastic types in a state
know in much detail the of evolution. Some as-
general anatomy and pro- pects of the late Triassic
portions of the many spe- of Arizona and Utah re-
cies of dinosaurs, examin- quire considerable effort
ation of a set of footprints In 1657 folks thought one type of dragon looked like this. Dr. John of the imagination to
furnishes an indication as Johnson, in his ''Historia Animalium" says this specimen was captured visualize.
to the size of the beast that in the fields of Bologna, and calls it a wingless, two-legged dragon. For instance, one sec-
JANUARY, 1945 21
do with finds of the bones of these actual the meaning of fossil dinosaur bones. This brain is smaller than a pea. This animal
dragons because these myths developed was from an account of a find in the also has a third eye on top of its head, the
in parts of the earth where dinosaur re- Jurassic deposits of southern England. The pineal eye, which is a very primitive char-
mains rarely are found. Where such a question remained indefinite however acteristic also shown by some lizards in-
foundation might be expected, as in China, until 1841 when Richard Owen, the an- cluding the common horned toad. But in
the dragon was no ordinary animal but a atomist, pointed to the fact that the bones the horned toad's case the eye is marked
supernatural being connected with earth, were those of a lizard-like animal and he by a tiny opaque scale while in tua-tara the
air, fire or water. Despite the fact that the named the thing a "dinosaur." pineal eye is well developed and said to be
ancients had no data to go by and appar- It is easy to acquire the wrong impres- sensitive to temperature changes. Some
ently created their dragons from thin air, sion of dinosaurs. We are likely to think of dinosaurs, the Plateosaurs, show evidence
they sometimes did a fairly decent job in them as being simply magnified lizards, of having had a pineal eye on top of the-
unknowingly inventing an imaginary dino- but some were little fellows less than a head. Like tua-tara the dinosauran mental
saur. The reproduction shown is from foot long from nose to the tip of the tail. equipment was slight. The Brontosaur was
an old "History of Animals" published Their bones show that they were allied to sometimes 65 feet long and weighed close
in 1657 and except for the fact that it three other groups—the birds, the croco- to 40 tons yet the brain responsible for
needs another pair of legs and that the diles and a curious clan, the Rhyncho- the action of this great mass of lizard flesh
neck and tail are a trifle "arty" it almost cepbalia, a group which now has but a tipped the scales at two pounds!
could qualify as a picture of Anchisaurus, single living representative, the Sphen- From the study of the teeth and jaws,
one of the smaller carnivorous dinosaurs. odon, or tua-tara of New Zealand. This anatomists know that there were both
It was not until 1824 that any attempt low-grade, lizard-like reptile has a pee-wee herbivorous and carnivorous types of dino-
was made to explain in a scientific way brain. In specimens 20 inches long the saurs. Some with spoon-shaped snouts ate
the vegetation of the ancient swamps.
Others had batteries of teeth with serrated
edges set edgewise in the jaw to shear like
the blades of scissors. These were the typi-
cal flesh eaters, living engines of destruc-
tion like Tyrannosaurus rex (King of the
Tyrant lizards). Many species laid eggs
like those found in Mongolia with the un-
hatched baby dinosaur inside. We also
know something about the skin that cov-
ered these dumb reptiles. Casts of the
hide have been recovered in a number of
finds. This was thin like most snake skin
but not covered with scales. Instead, it
had a mosaic of tubercles like the skin of
the gila monster.
What wiped out the dinosaurs? No-
body knows for certain but there are
some attractive theories. The facts are that
for a period three times the length of the
mammalian domination of the earth, the
reptiles flourished exceedingly, and then
suddenly at the close of the Mesozoic,
about 25,000,000 years ago, the last dino-
saur died. Possibly this extinction was due
to changing of the earth's climate from
warm to cool and actually cold. Reptiles,
with their cold blood and lack of any pro-
tective covering such as hair or feathers
to cut down heat lost through radiation
could not stand the rigors of even a mod-
erate winter. With the onset of cold a
torpor would settle down on the entire
dinosaur race. This coupled with a slow
mind challenged by the problems of chang-
ing environment would have been too
much. They couldn't think fast enough to
carry on. However, on the warm day of the
Triassic when the unhurried giant left his
track in the sandy mud at Kanab, such
misfortunes were still a long way in the
dim future.
Soldier's lost
VeinofGold
This month Desert Magazine publishes the first of
a series of lost treasure stories written by Barry
Storm whose search for the Lost Dutchman mine in
the Arizona Superstition mountains has extended
ovor a long period of years. Storm hasn't found the
Losit Dutchman, but during the quest he has become
acquainted with every gulch and pinnacle in the
rucfged Superstition range. There are legends of
other lost ledges and veins containing ore of fabu-
lous wealth in the region of the Superstitions—and it
is about these less known gold and silver deposits
that Storm has written his latest series of stories.
By BARRY STORM
at Fort McDowell, whose right names either are buried now in Mason, doubtless remembering his luck once before with an
the archives of the war department or more probably never were ex-soldier, approached the two with the idea of forming a part-
known, were drawn by the sensational talk to seek work there nership for a share in their discovery.
for no other reason than merely seeing what a boom mining He would outfit them, he said, from the mine commissary
camp was like. To reach there, after their enlistments had ex- if they would return to the Superstitions and stake out a mining
pired late in 1875, they followed the military trail through the claim upon the site of their golden ore. And in the meant'me,
Superstitions. since neither was a U. S. citizen, he would personally vouch for
Hiking due southeast from the Mormon Flat crossing on the them and so obtain the naturalization papers that would make
Salt river, they entered the mountains between Kayhatin and La their claim valid.
Barge creeks, followed the trail past the prehistoric Indian ruins The men agreed. Next morning they set out to backtrail them-
now known as Garden Valley, over Black Mesa to West Boul- selves to fortune. But riding behind and following secretly with
der canyon a quarter mile above its mouth, crossed the low a rifle across his saddlehorn was a peg-legged gambler named
ridge that separates East and West Boulder canyons at this point Smith! And the two ex-soldiers never again were seen alive.
and proceeded on up East Boulder canyon toward Weaver's Weeks later when their remains were discovered in the pres-
Needle which now was in plain sight. Then they turned east ent Quarter-Circle-U ranch pasture, where they were buried
on the trail to go through the low pass below the southern slopes after being identified by the cost marks of the mine commissary
of the black-topped mountain which separates East Boulder upon their equipment, both were found to have been shot from
and Needle canyons, a scant half mile apart. Somewhere in this ambush. Local opinion immediately placed the blame on Smith,
region they flushed a deer, fired at it at least once with their who, it was learned, had vanished from the mining camp at the
.50 caliber Spencer repeaters, Army-issued, and in the resulting same time as the two soldiers. Later he turned up in Alaska
chase came upon a partly exposed "reddish vein about a foot with his bags stuffed with a fortune in glittering golden ore.
thick, halfway up a black-topped hill." There, many years later, he wrote to former friends in Arizona
The two ex-soldiers did not know it was fabulous golden ore and tried to persuade them to go into the Superstitions for him
that they had found. They knocked off a few pieces of the and stake out for a half interest a claim on bonanza ore to which
"pretty rock" to carry with them as souvenirs. With these he would furnish directions. No one took his offer seriously
samples still in their pockets they applied for work several days and he again dropped from sight.
later to Jack Frazer, mining foreman of the Silver King mine. Forest, however, who was a member of the coroner's jury
Frazer hired them both. After several more days in the mine which traced and buried the ex-soldiers, immediately tried to
they began to see for themselves that valuable ore had much the trail them. He said in later years that he followed their tracks
same characteristics of heavy weight, unusual coloring and into the second canyon east of Weaver's Needle, going up from
metallic content as the rock which they had brought from the the desert into the Superstitions.
Superstitions. Then they asked their foreman for an opinion Then again, a short time later, Phipps, a Superior miner, fired
of its possible value. by tales of their rich ore, said he had succeeded in backtracking
Frazer, being shown the glittering rock, took one astounded them to its source. When he returned to town greatlv excited,
look and sent for the superintendent. When Mason arrived he he added: "It's less than two miles from Weaver's Needle. I
confirmed what Frazer already was excitedly telling the ad- seen a cool million dollars in sight!" But Phipps never lived to
venturers—that they had struck it rich! From the few samples enjoy it. When he went down into his own shaft after tools with
the two ex-soldiers had with them was recovered and weighed which to work his new-found bonanza, an unexplained cave-
up more than $500 in gold which was placed to their credit in killed him.
upon the mine commissary books. Thus do the thunder gods spin their fatal web!
JANUARY, 1945 25
I drove from Warner's Ranch past Valle- Turtle mountains, that is if the picture in Quiz Editor Has Dumb Moments . . .
cito and Carrizo on the old stage road, and the magazine is supposed to be the arch. San Francisco, California
visited the gorge again. This picture in the magazine is one of the To Desert Quiz Editor:
This time I was able to go farther up the many pin-holes or eyes to be found on the We all enjoy your department, particu-
canyon in my car, and I noticed two old south side of the Turtles. There are many larly the questions relating to desert flora,
toads taking off from the upper canyon and more there just as small. geology, ethnology, etc.
leading into the hills. The real Turtle mountain arch is located I wonder if we read Question 9 in the
I am interested in knowing what activity on the north side of the Turtles and a stiff December magazine aright? Does this re-
in the early days required this equipment climb from Carson well, or a roundabout fer to the Lucin cut-off across the Great
and the building of these roads, which are trail via Coffin spring, which Mr. Ford's Salt Lake, of the Southern Pacific railroad.
now abandoned and badly washed out. map does not lead to; it is far longer than See Bertha Greeley Brown's article in Au-
the one shown in the magazine. gust, 1944.
HENRY P. HOLMES F. J. SOUTHERLAND
I have visited this arch and these moun-
Many other visitors to Painted tains many times, and know all the miners Apologies to DM Reader Souther-
Gorge, including the editor of Desert in that locality. They say that this arch is land and all other Quiz fans. It is
Magazine, have wondered about Mr. Ford's PEEP-HOLE and that he can- the Southern Pacific, not the Union
those old roads, which presumably not see either the lost mine or the lost Pacific which crosses Great Salt Lake.
were used in mining development. If nuggets by using this as a PEEP-SIGHT, The Quiz editor has been flying
any reader of Desert Magazine knows as there are no mines or nuggets lost in around in airplanes so much lately
the answer, we would appreciate a let- this district; they have all been located and he has sort o' lost track o\ how and
ter from him. —R.H. recorded. where the railroads run. So you may
• • • score yourself another five points in
Others have pictures of the real arch, the December Quiz — and we hope
Walter Ford's Turtle which are far larger and of different shape that makes you a Desert Rat.
Mountain "Peep-Hole" . . . than the one in the magazine, as the arch
extends far above the heads of the men —Quiz Editor
Needles, California seen in it. • • •
Dear Sir: Paging Charles Kelly . . .
This is not to cast any reflections on Mr. Los Angeles, California
Regarding the article by Mr. Walter Ford, but just to say that he has followed
Ford in the November 1944 issue of the Desert Magazine:
the wrong DESERT-TRAIL to the Please get after Charles Kelly for an-
Desert Magazine about, "We Found the WATER-HOLE, like many prospectors other story. I admire his articles very
Arch—but not the Nuggets." have in the past, which I and others have much. He seems to follow a line of facts
It is true that Mr. Ford found not the done. and history which I find very interesting.
nuggets, neither did he find the arch in the A. P. MILLER M. R. HARRISON
TPe&att
By MARSHAL SOUTH
r HE SUN has moved far south into the lowlands and the
long string of "goldfish" which announce his rising each
morning, are back in their places upon the smoke-
blackened ceiling beam. The goldfish, which are fish-like
splashes of golden light caused by the sunbeams striking
through under the edges of badly fitted corrugated iron roofing,
abandon us in the summer. For then the sun is too far north and
the angle of the light is not right. But every winter they return,
varying in number from 10 to 22 as the sun moves. They serve
as alarm clocks. For, on those rare occasions when we happen to
drowse beyond sunrise, we are bound to be aroused by the sol-
emn chanting of Rudyard and Victoria as they count the long
line: "One, two, three, four . . ."
Yes, the goldfish are out, and it is high time to get up! An-
other desert day has begun.
Bui: the winter-moving sun brings us, this year, more than a
line of brilliant little fish to thrill the sense of beauty. For, on
these mornings, as it lifts above the silhouetted summit of the
juniper tree and pours his flooding beams in through our east
window, it brings us what Tanya calls "The Treasure of Kings" Tanya puts the finishing touches on one of her storage ollas.
—a great, tall jar of flashing gold, as dazzling as any that ever
were the pride of Aztec emperors. Fashioned by Tanya during
the long days of summer and as big as one of the huge oil jars ening showers. False alarms, most of these midnight scurryings.
that figure in the ancient phantasy of the Forty Thieves, it sits But we have had two tiny rains. From one we caught 25 gallons
now, against the wall, upon the summit of a green chest, waiting and from another 15. Not much, but enough to be a heartening
for the day when it will be taken out and baked in an open fire promise. The rain will be along later. Perhaps before these lines
—for it is too big for our primitive kiln. see print we will again be contentedly drawing from newly-
filled cisterns.
A homely thing. A thing of mud—of unfired clay. Yet now,
each morning as the sun rises, it flames to a thing of glory. But if our recent catch of drinking water was limited, the
Humble enough, through all the day, set there against the drab showers at least provided a welcome diversion for our trio of
background of a mud wall as unfinished as itself, it nevertheless young Yaquitepecos. Water has been for so long a jealously
leaps each dawn from the shadows to stand forth as a glowing guarded, non-wasteable commodity, that to use it for play pur-
golden urn over whose beauty we have not yet ceased to marvel. poses has been out of the question. But the two storms light as
Mud! Mud turned to gold at the touch of a sunbeam. Just a they were, fell not only upon our roof, but also upon the private
trick of the light. A simple thing, one to smile about and to for- dams of Rider and Rudyard—tiny reservoirs built carefully of
cement in strategic points among the granite boulders. There-
get. Eut somehow the thing has become our daily miracle—a
fore, after the showers, there was much excitement and rushing
flashing symbol of the manner in which human clay, touched by
to and fro with tin cans and bottles to collect the precious liquid
the rays of the Great Spirit, can suddenly flame forth to un- and store it before it could evaporate. There were hasty dash-
guessed heights of glory. And perhaps Tanya may be right when ings, with Victoria trailing along in the rear of the procession,
she calls her pet olla, "The Treasure of Kings." For the true slopping water from her own tiny bucket and shrieking in
treasure of kings lies in understanding. breathless excitement. What an orgy of "mudding"—until the
The wind gods that herald the approach of winter, prowl now water gave out.
about Ghost Mountain. And often in the night rush upon it with Rider and Rudyard build model 'dobe houses, situated cliff-
shoutings, roaring through the cliff-edge junipers and flinging dweller fashion in crevices of rocks. But Victoria builds cisterns.
quart2: gravel upon our iron roof like clattering bursts of buck- Her cisterns are constructed by the simple method of heaping
shot. Several times in the dark we have arisen and by flickering up a mound of mud and patting it nice and smooth on top.
light, gone out to sweep eaves troughs and to prepare for threat- After which the whole family is summoned to admire the work
JANUARY, 194 5 27
ctf art. "A vewwy fine cistern," says Victoria, contentedly eyeing distances. Often I have seen a fly alight to sun itself upon a
her own work. "An' after I get it smoothed out some more—" granite boulder in a section where there apparently were no
enemies. And then, from a distance, I have noted the cautious
Oh, the mud that one happy, barefoot youngster can acquire!
approach of one of the beady-eyed little lizards. You can see his
But mud is healthful—that is, clean mud. Humans would be bet- tiny eyes fixed intently on his prey. Nimbly he slides down the
ter off physically if they came more often in contact with it and sides of intervening boulders. Swiftly he darts across open
with the earth. The Indian knew this. But, being a savage, he spaces, taking advantage of every scrap of cover. With deadly
has been outvoted. purpose, keeping out of sight as far as possible, he begins to
There is an end to mudding when the water gives out. And climb the stone whereon the fly rests. Sometimes, from its thou-
there wasn't much this time. The builders now have gone back to sand eyes, the fly glimpses him, and makes off. But more often
the regular daily round of lessons and of fuel gathering and of than not it leaves the rock tucked away inside of Mr. Lizard. I
helping set and distribute type—and the score and one other even have seen these lizards leap several inches from the ground
daily duties. That is, the two boys have. Victoria has gone back and capture flies upon the wind. A feat comparable to that of a
to the job of raising Susie and Barbara, which, outside of her bare handed human catching flying birds.
light daily allotment of reading and writing, provide her with
worries enough. . . . And, just to even matters, before I could finish this the
rain gods, possibly having read what I wrote in the first part,
Victoria decided some time ago that her dolls needed sun decided to come in good earnest. In full ceremonial costume,
treatments. They should bask each day in the healing rays of the heavy laden with water jars, they swooped down upon Ghost
desert sun. "Only thing, they haven't got a truly bed," she Mountain, shouting their songs and whirling their headdresses
lamented. "They are 'fraid to sleep right on the ground. They and sounding rattles.
are 'fraid of—of mice." And she wrinkled up her nose and gig- How the water splashed from their ollas! And how the wind
gled as she said it. For mice happen to be Victoria's chief de- gods yelled in accompanying chorus. What sudden scurryings
light. to and fro on our part—adjusting rain spouts and dragging
So it came about that, taking the hint, Rider and I, in secret, dry fuel to shelter. The falling water made a deafening tumult
constructed a "truly bed" of just the right size to accommodate on our iron roof. Mud fell from the plastering over the win-
Susie and Barbara—and even, if necessity called, the somewhat dows, for a leak suddenly developed in the concrete eaves trough
dilapidated Peter Rabbit also. We flatter ourselves that the bed and spilled an overflow along the wall top and the front of the
was, in its way, somewhat of a work of art, being fashioned of house. The first fire of the season roared merrily in the big fire-
nicely trimmed dry mescal shoots, lashed and fitted together place and three happy little Yaquitepecos toasted hands and
with not a nail in all its fastenings. And the bed "spring" was toes in the cheerful warmth. And while water plunged into the
of interlaced fiber also, after the manner of the old style rawhide empty cisterns, whirling snowflakes sheeted the distant moun-
laced beds. Bringing this contraption home by stealth we hid it. tains in white.
And when Victoria's birthday came round a few days later, we Rain! and WATER! And the far sight of snow. Yes, per-
presented the bed to her, with fitting speeches. haps, as we expected, it will be a cold winter. But today the sun
Victoria sits beside her invalids in the sunshine and holds is shining again and the mudders are busy at their building.
converse with them in encouraging tones. And the bright eyed The lizard is back at his fly-catching. And it is such a gloriously
young collared lizard whose habitat is on the window screen, warm and clean-washed world that it might well be a perfect
cocks his head and wonders what it's all about. day in spring.
Quite a little desert sprite, that collared lizard. It has been "But it really isn't spring," Rudyard and Victoria object, as I
so long since he took up his residence in the vicinity of the voice the thought. "It's really almost Christmas!" "And don't
window screen that we have come to look upon him as part of forget," Victoria adds, looking up, muddy faced and muddy
the scenery. And we miss him when he happens to be away for handed from her vigorous patting of wet adobe, "that vewwy
a while. A mighty hunter of flies, he has learned that his favor- soon we all have to go and bring home the Christmas tree."
ite game always hangs round window screens. Through long • • •
practice he has developed a technique which seldom fails. Ob-
serving an alighted fly contentedly cleaning its forelegs to- LITTLE THINGS
gether in the sunlight he begins to creep cautiously toward it. These things are worthy anyone's regard:
Stealthily he executes a wide, circling approach. Then, with a A willing hand, a careful and close guard
lightning rush, he dashes upon the over-confident insect from Over our tongues and tempers, and a care
behind. You cannot see what happens to the fly. But you can That we sincerely all our burdens bear.
see the satisfied hunter going off, smacking his lips. The num- Such simple little things that all can do
ber of flies that he consumes in a day must do no little toward To guide us safely all the narrows through.
keeping the balance of nature adjusted. Life is not hard if ive sincerely try
Remarkably intelligent these harmless reptiles. The small With all the good and upright to ally.
fly-lizards, the most numerous, can spot their quarry at long —Tanya South
JANUARY, 1945 29
CALIFORNIA Mud Pots Are "Boiling". . . Resort Seeks Air Stop . . .
CALIPATRIA — Unusual activity on PALM SPRINGS —That this desert
Convention Set For May . . . resort will "in all probability" be put on
Rock hill, about three miles southeast of
PALM SPRINGS —California Osteo- the aerial map of the nation, is the belief
famous mud pots of Salton Sea was ob-
pathic association will hold its annual of chamber of commerce secretary Walter
served in November by Roy Yarbrough of
convention here next May 16-19, it has Kofeldt, who was the first witness before
Imperial Irrigation district. Rock from this
been revealed by Thomas C. Schumacher, San Francisco hearing of Civil Aeronautics
hill is used by district in riprapping cuts
executive secretary of the association. Plans board November 1. Six companies, he said,
along the canal system. After supervising
tor handling the 600 delegates and friends wish to include Palm Springs on their
hauling of this rock, he said "smoke and
expected to attend are being made by Wal- itineraries, two of them as main transcon-
steam were issuing from two deep cuts
ter Kofeldt, executive secretary chamber tinental flight stops and others with feeder
near the top of the hill" and many large
of commerce, Earl Coffman of the Desert lines touching main Southern California
boulders had been dislodged and had
fnn and local hotels.
rolled into the roadway. cities.
East Mesa Report Protested . . . Plan For Aggie Training . . .
Shoshone Chief Dies . . .
HOLTVILLE—Soil report released by EL CENTRO—More than 100 farmers
DEATH VALLEY —Johnny Boland,
University of California college of agricul- Shoshone Indian who died of pneumonia and business men in November endorsed a
ture that only about 40,000 acres of the was buried November 10 with full tribal plan to extend the work of the Meloland
East Mesa area is suited to general farming ceremony in the old Indian burial grounds Agricultural experimental station, a branch
has been protested by Evan T. Hewes and atop one of the foothills in the Funeral of the University of California. They ap-
M. J. Dowd of Imperial Irrigation district. range north of Furnace Creek Inn. Al- proved establishment of a non-degree agri-
District officials challenge findings on though a chief of his tribe, as the only cultural training school at the station at
ground that survey was not complete, that son of the late Chief John Boland, Johnny estimated cost of $165,000 for buildings
a much larger area is suitable for farming. never had exercised the privilege. This is and equipment. Training would include
They fear this report may limit develop- said to be the first time white people have agronomy, truck crops, animal and dairy
ment of area to a small portion of the been allowed to witness the burial ritual husbandry, soil technology, farm manage-
total acreage available. of Shoshone Indians in Death Valley. ment, farm machinery and shop, physical
education.
JANUARY, 1945 31
Santa Fe, New Mexico . . .
Mui&i and . .
First deep oil discovery in New Mexico
has been made at the Humble test well in
Lea county, at depth of 11,900 feet. It is
reported to have tested 1800 barrels per
The day of the pick and pan prospector Phoenix, Arizona . . . day.
who formerly trudged along with his According to information received here
burros, but more recently travels in a the Reconstruction Finance corporation is Salt Lake City, Utah . . .
jalopy, is not over, according to Charles now accepting applications for limited Government controls on use of mag-
Newmeyer in the Mining Record. There loans for the development and operation of nesium were lifted in October by WPB
still is pioneering to be done in the search gold mining properties. While loans can- ruling. No further restrictions will be
for minerals, and the prospector who fol- not be made at this time, it is anticipated placed upon manufacture of light metal
lows the trails year after year is the man there soon will be a modification of war- products, including all varieties of civilian
most likely to make new discoveries. He time restrictions which will enable the goods. Restrictions still will be felt in some
has gained a knowledge through exper- resumption of work on properties formerly localities however because of critical man-
ience, for which there is no substitute. active. The RFC has set a limit of $20,000 power situation.
• • • on the initial loan, with a possible second
Tucson, Arizona . . . loan of $20,000. Legislation now is pend-
Resumption of its ore testing service, ing in congress which would remove these Winnemucca, Nevada . . .
inactive since September, 1943, has been limitations. Applications should be filed Installation of 100-ton scheelite concen-
announced by the Arizona bureau of through RFC field offices. trator was made at tungsten mine owned
mines at the University of Arizona here. • • • by Joseph E. Riley to help ship high grade
Tests are made on ores originating in tungsten concentrates to industrial plants.
Winnemucca, Nevada . . . What is said to have been largest tungsten
Arizona, a minimum charge of $5 plus
the cost of analysis assessed on samples of Molybdenum Products company is clos- stockpile in United States is awaiting
100 pounds or less. No charge is made for ing its Reno office and opening a new treatment here. U. S. bureau of mines is
the services of the metallurgist. One cent headquarters in this city, according to preparing extensive diamond drilling of
per pound is:added for samples over 100 plans disclosed by President George Riley property to determine extent of ore-
pounds. Howe. The company has property in the bodies beyond present developed area.
• • • Bottle Creek district. A plant for calcining
San Francisco, California . . . and sintering is to be constructed at the San Francisco, California . . .
Walter W. Bradley, California state Blue Bucket quicksilver property and a
new camp is practically completed. Economic report for California division
mineralogist, has just issued a new edition of mines, appraising postwar outlook and
of the California Journal of Mines and • • • suggesting legislation for greater activity
Geology, devoted mainly to three major Denver, Colorado . . . and postwar employment in mineral in-
reports. These include: Geology of Palm dustries of the state, is being prepared by
Springs-Blythe strip, Riverside county; Robert Palmer, secretary of the Colo-
rado Mining association has sent out an- Samuel H. Dolbear, mining engineer.
Geology of parts of the Barstow Quad-
rangle in San Bernardino county, and nouncements of an inter-mountain mining
Geology of the Needles-Goffs region in conference to be held in this city January Las Vegas, Nevada . . .
San Bernardino county. All the reports are 26-27'. Groups from Colorado, New Mex- Nearly 200 workers in BMI plant at
accompanied by maps. This edition of the ico, South Dakota, Utah and Wyoming Henderson are being laid off weekly as
Journal, Vol. 40, No. 1, may be obtained are expected to attend the conference. part of gradual curtailment order which
by addressing the Division of Mines, • • • will completely close plant in December,
Ferry Building, San Francisco 11, Califor- Gallup, New Mexico . . . officials state.
nia. The cost is 60 cents plus state sales Oil drilling activity has reached a new
tax. high in northwestern New Mexico accord- Washington, D. C. . . .
• • • ing to reports reaching here. Transcal Government production controls on
El Paso, Texas . . . Realty and Development corporation has copper industry will cease following V-
: So successful was the first International resumed drilling on the deep test well in day in Europe, WPB announced October
Mining Day celebration held here early San Juan county; the Southern Union Pro- 10. At present, brass and bronze ingot
in November that the mining committee duction company is reported to be below makers may accept orders lacking priority
of the chamber of commerce has decided 5750 feet in the Barker Dome area; Petrol- ratings but may not produce them until
to make the event an annual affair, and eum Products corporation is active in the after Germany's collapse. It is estimated
has designated the second week in Novem- Hospah dome in McKinley county where 57,000 000 pounds of copper and copper
ber, 1945, for the next conference. Over 40 producers already have been found. products will be available each quarter for
400 mining men from New Mexico, There are also several individual operators ingot makers for civilian use following
Texas, Arizona, Colorado and old Mexico sinking test holes on the north rim of San V-E day cutbacks in arms production. Re-
were present at this year's program. Juan basin and over the line in Colorado. ports on production still will be required
• • • for some products after European hostili-
• • • ties cease.
Winnemucca, Nevada . . .
Purchase depots operated by Metals Re- Cedar City. Utah . . .
serve company ceased purchase of domestic Shipment of iron ore from deposits west Kingman, Arizona . . .
tin ores and concentrates December 31. In of this city to the Kaiser plant in Cali- Ed Imus has located a large deposit of
the future tin will be bought only on a fornia, are scheduled to start as soon as a barium ore, a base in paint manufacture,
basis of negotiated contract. Persons inter- spur railroad and temporary buildings are in the Cottonwood district 30 miles east of
ested in such contracts should write to completed at the property. Forty men are here. Former production at this location
Metal Reserves company at Washington, at work on the project, the construction be- was unprofitable due to low price. Present
D. C. ing done by Utah Construction company. price has doubled.
Of a Rockhound
By LOUISE EATON
HERE ARE THE GIFTS
Rockhounds sorta classifies into two
breeds: those what collects rox f'r esthetic YOU'VE BEEN LOOKING FOR/
reasons 'n those what gathers speciments
f'r learnin purposes. Rings, $4.00 and Up Necklaces. $5.00 and Up
• • • Brooches, $5.00 and Up
Think uv all th little shugar sax a- Bracelet and Ring Sets, $15 and Up
waitii to bring home rox frum field trips
rockhouns'll take when th duration is
llllill Plus 20% Excise Tax and 2>/2% Sales Tax
Petrified Picture Wood and Moss Agate — Jewelry
Hand Made in Sterling Silver Mountings
Th longer folkes wurks with minerals
'n gems, th more they tends to specialize.
Sum wants metals only. Wun man may
turn out jus heart shaped pieces while
nuther can see nuthin but sagenite to
collect 'n polish. Sum wants only crystals
'n sum thinks agate nodules is tops.
HI RINGS — BRACELETS — NECKLACES
BROOCHES — TIE SLIDES, ETC.
Mail Orders Filled Anywhere in U. S. A.
JANUARY, 1945 33
Richard Buhlis, Box 1012, Little Rock, Dr. W. J. Mead talked on aluminum, its
Arkansas, secretary of Arkansas Mineral society, source and production at November 14 meeting
AMONG THE informs us that the annual meeting and banquet of New Jersey mineralogical society. Dr. Mead
JANUARY, 1945 35
LAPIDARY EQUIPMENT
This page of Desert Magazine
16-inch
I LAP UNIT
AMATEUR GEM CUTTER is for those who have, or aspire
to have, their own gem cutting
and polishing equipment. Lelande Quick, who conducts this department, is former presi-
dent of Los Angeles Lapidary society. He will be glad to answer questions in connection
with your lapidary work. Queries should be addressed to Desert Magazine, El Centro, Calif.
By LELANDE QUICK
Send for Christmas is again upon us and I hope that it many, is done in kitchens but I would not advo-
Literature to
will be a happy one for all our readers. Despite cate that here. Another drawback is the diffi-
Coving ton Lapidary empty firesides I hope there are no empty hearts. culty in securing the necessary chemicals but if
Engineering Co. Last year I expressed the hope and belief that it you are near some large city you can secure
Redlands, Cal. would be the last war Christmas but here we are these from any laboratory supply house by con-
hard at it and I do hope that things develop be- sulting the yellow pages in the local telephone
fore this appears that will indicate that this one directory. Some enterprising dealer could really
will really be the last Christmas at which "peace build up a fine business by selling these items
SPEEDWAY GEM COMPANY on earth, goodwill toward men" is nothing but and supplying instructions.
FEATURING FINE GEMS, MINERALS, an expression and a phrase out of the past. War There are some things to remember. Agate
AND LAPIDARY SUPPLIES is a profitable venture and I hope there will be and agate only can be colored with these
enough persons in the world who have not methods because of the fact that it is a crypto-
Write for Circulars profited from it so that when it is time to sit crystalline. Banded agate is the best because it
down and talk things over, war will be outlawed produces contrasts having "soft" and "hard"
DIAMONDS everywhere forever and there will be no fine layers which react differently to the chemicals.
Do You Own These Famous Books by game of power and economic politics. The men The nodules found in the Mint Canyon area of
Professor Frank B. Wade? who do this will live in the hearts of other men California should be ideal for this purpose. Not
The Factors That Determine Their Value long after the generals of the armies are forgot- many of the books on gem cutting have much
. . . $2.00 Postpaid ten. material on coloring but the most complete in-
Textbook of Precious Stones $3.50 • • • formation available for further reading is con-
These books are internationally known. tained in Fred Young's excellent book, The Art
In the past four issues of Desert Magazine I
Written by a Master Teacher in a simple of Gem Cutting or in Geology Leaflet No. 8
have been writing about coloring agates. I cov-
and highly informative style. published by the Field Museum in Chicago for
ered the methods of coloring agate red, blue,
50 cents.
LAPIDARY MATERIAL green and black in that order and I conclude the
matter this month bv telling how to color agate • • •
Waldru Final Polishing Agent—The final
polishing agent that has replaced tin ox- yellow. This method is the simplest of all and Probably no one resists change more than an
ide in many amateur and professional usually the most successful as the stone to be amateur lapidary who has used successfully a
gem shops 1 lb.—50c, 5 lbs.—$2.00 colored is merely soaked for some time in a certain method of grinding and polishing for a
Fine Norwegian Amazonite—Will cut strong solution of hydrochloric acid after having long time. To suggest various grade wheels and
into fine gems 1 lb.—$1.25 previously had a bath in ferrous sulphate solu- speeds invites a smile of quiet tolerance, an un-
Good Montana Agate 1 lb.—75c tion. Allow the stone to soak until the desired expressed thought of "listen to that; and my
Fine Wyoming Sweetwater Agate Peb- shade of vellow has been obtained. work tops his." But the onlv way you can get out
bles 15 for $1.00 You will note that in these discussions I have of the amateur class is to do gem grindinc like
never used the term "dveinf?" but I have alwavs professionals do it and if you do vou will get
FLUORESCENT MINERALS used the term "coloring." There is a lot of dif- better results than you ever did before. Having
Large Specimens—Many Types ference. When a substance is dyed, an artificial polished stones successful Iv on a felt wheel with
E x t r a S p e c i a l 2x3 s p e c i m e n s of . . . color is introduced that sometimes fades but we tin oxide for years, I believed that was THE
Brown Ohio Fluorite 50c introduce no artificial coloring when we treat wav to do it—until I acquired a leather wheel,
agates. We introduce chemicals made from min- and then I found out that both types could be
SPEEDWAY GEM COMPANY erals and the mineral content of the agate is used with profit. And now I am even trying
651 E. 52nd St. Indianapolis 5, Indiana either changed or enhanced and the coloring is tripoli.
therefore intensified. Nine out of ten amateurs buy "J" bond grind-
Now there are readers who are "agin it" on ing wheels as a matter of course and thev run
the ground that you can't improve on nature. them at motor speed—1750 R P.M. The Carbo-
LAPIdARY SUPPLIES... "I take 'em as I find 'em," thev sav. Indeed that
is the way to take them and I prefer it mvself. for
rundum aeents told me one dav that if I used a
"K" bond No. 220 wheel at half motor speed, I
VRECO DIAMOND BLADES coloring agates is a great nuisance. But when would never crack or chip another opal. I took
it comes to improving nature in the coloring of their advice three years ago and I have never
Give better performance, longer life.
agate, it is well to reflect that nearlv every piece spoiled an opal since. In fact my cracked stones
faster cutting of agate ornament sold commercially has been of all kinds have been reduced to the vanishing
6-in. Blade.. .$ 4.50 8-in. Blade ....$ 5.50 treated to some form of color bath. In some sec- point. If you have a trim-off saw you can get
10-in. Blade— 6.80 12-in. Blade.... 8.75 tions of America there is almost no colored agate along very well with no more than two grind-
14-in. Blade.. 11.00 16-in. Blade ... 13.75 at all but there is much very sood white agate ing wheels—a No. 220 and a No. 180 h\x* if you
Arbor holes y2. 5/8, %, 1 in. that could be greatly improved bv changing the have no trim-saw you need several wheels. I use
Lapidary supplies now available without pri- mineral content. Agate, or chalcedony, includes motor speed on a No. 120 J bond wheel to
ority : Norton Crystolon Grinding Wheels, the jaspers and the petrified woods although shape a cabochon from a blank, then switch to a
Wheel Dressing Sticks, Crystolon Grain and these usually are so vividlv colored that they No. 180 J bond wheel to rough out the curved
Norbide, Drum Sanders, Sanding Cloth, By-
field Polishing Buffs, Polishing Powders, hardly can be improved. And of course you can't surface and then go to a No. 220 K bond for
Dopping Wax, Canada Balsam, etc. take the blue agate from Lead Pipe Springs, the final grinding and I cut my time in half and
CUTTER'S ASSORTMENT. For $1 w e will California, and make it vellow or the carnelian have almost no stone casualties. If I h^ve a rock
send you a 3 lb. assortment of the follow- agate from Utah and make it blue or improve that I want to finish as a specimen I "peel" the
ing rough gem materials: Rhodochrosite, their colors very much as nature has done a fine surface with a No. 80 J bond wheel and I also
Variscite, Thunder Eggs, Eden Valley job with those materials. To refrain from color- use it for "spotting" rocks. My rule is, "the
Wood Limb, Montana Moss Agate, Bra- ing on the ground that you can't improve on na- roueher the material, the coarser and faster the
zilian Agate, California Blue Agate, Tur- ture is closing your eves against the inevitable. grinder. As the work progresses use finer wheels
Is pork improved by being smoked into ham and and reduce the speed. Use a No. 220 wheel at
ritella Agate, Petrified Wood and etc.
bacon? I could cite a hundred such examples half motor speed on all soft materials."
PETRIFIED WOOD—Washington. Asst.
Varieties. 50c lb. Special 10 lib. asst. $3. that we accept every day. I have seen beach Now this is not the last word in grinding.
Slabs 15-25c per sq. in. pickers at Redondo Beach go into transports Probably no one else does it like that and most
when thev found a "ebble with a pale amethys- persons can beat my cabochon work but since
On all orders for gem material add 20% to tine color. They could have a pail full of good
cover Federal Luxury Tax. Residents of Cali- I adopted those methods my own work has im-
fornia be sure to add the 2%% Calif. State blue agates in a month if they'd just give nature proved to where it compares favorablv with top
Sales Tax. a helping hand. And the fact that these beach cutting and I can do a cabochon in half the time
pebbles can be colored at all is proof that they
WflRflER & GRIEGER are agate and not "moonstones."
I used to take. If you will vary your grinding
wheels rather than vary the pressure you will
save time and stones and you will save a lot of
405 Ninita Parkway Pasadena 4, Calif. The chief drawback to coloring agates is that
Our Phone Number is SYcamore 6-6423 it is messy and it needs a large place and ade- grinding wheel expense because you will elim-
quate vessels. Most of the coloring at Idar, Ger- inate a lot of wheel dressing.
Aji Y friend Aries Adams has found a way to explore the swept down the canyon the seeds had been buried so deeply in
/rL. desert with an A ration card. He feeds his jalopy a the sand as to delay germination. Perhaps one of the botanists
mixture of half gas and half kerosene—three-quarters can tell which, if either, of these explanations is correct.
kerosene when the weather is warm. Our goal was a spring in the Vallecito mountains 14 miles
Of course not all motors will operate on that kind of fuel. But upstream from the Split. There is fine water trickling from the
Aries' car is no ordinary automobile. A junk dealer sold him the rocks near the rim of a basin which the cattlemen call Galleta
old Model A for $18.00—and being a very ingenious fellow, valley.
he converted the wreck into sort of a tarantula on wheels. It will This is old Indian country. San Diego museum has recovered
go anywhere a jeep can travel—and makes a lot more noise many artifacts from the area. Broken pottery is still much in
doing it. evidence, and stone metates — too big to carry away — are
Late Saturday afternoon Aries and I took the rocky trail up numerous. Also a few petroglyphs. Agave, which furnished
Fish Creek wash—through Split Mountain canyon. This is in both food and raiment for the desert redskins, grows plentifully
the Anza Desert State park. California has not built many roads here, and the floor of the valley produces a fine harvest of chia
in the park yet, but in the pre-war days there was a passable seed.
trail up the wash past the Gypsum mine and through Split I have gone into some detail regarding this trip because this
Mountain gorge. is Anza park country, and there is widespread interest in the
The route is still passable—but I wouldn't recommend it. improvements to be undertaken in Anza park in the post-war
Storm water during the past two years has created some rocky period.
barriers along the route. It requires a sturdy car and a stout- I believe it is the plan of the California park commission to
hearted driver to make the trip today. Two automobiles recently preserve much of the 400,000 acres in Anza as a primitive
had broken trail ahead of us in the lower gorge. But they turned wilderness area. I am sure that desert people with few exceptions
back at a sandstone dike which blocked the canyon about eight are in accord with this program.
miles upstream from the Split. However, this does not mean that the park is to remain
It looked as if our journey also would end there. At least, that inaccessible. If the public is to derive enjoyment and benefit
was what I thought. But Aries had a different idea. "Sit tight from the park—and after all, that is the purpose of a recreational
and hang on," he shouted, as he stepped on the throttle. The reserve—trails must be built. Some of them will be for motorists,
kerosene burner gave a few snorts and somehow bounced to others for saddle tourists, and still other routes will be planned
the top of that waterfall. for the hiking fraternity.
We camped that night in the bottom of the wash with a It will never be practicable to build a surfaced highway
blazing fire of dead Smoke tree wood. through Split mountain gorge and up Fish creek. This is one of
Ten miles above the precipitous gateway to the canyon the the routes which properly should be maintained merely as a
shrubs of the Upper Sonoran zone begin to appear—agave, passable motor trail. Each cloudburst will damage the road,
yucca, goatnut, wild apricot. Not all the desert plants observe perhaps make it impassable But since these storms seldom come
the zone classifications laid down by the botanists. Larrea, or more than once a year, and not always that often, it would
greasewood, is one of these. It thrives in both the Lower and involve only a few days work and comparatively small cost
Uppei: Sonoran zones. for workmen to go over the route and re-open it. For the most
Locoweed is another. The dark green clover-like foliage of part, the floor of the creek is well-packed sand where a careful
this desert annual was the most conspicuous thing in the canyon driver can roll along at 10 to 20 miles an hour without dis-
on this trip. I have never seen so much of it before, either there comfort or hazard. And one would miss much of the scenic
or elsewhere. Despite its sinister name and reputation, locoweed charm of this area if he traveled faster than that.
is a lovely flower. Its purple blossoms were much in evidence At a later date, when the canyon is passable and the gasoline
in the lower canyon, but at higher and cooler altitudes it had ration clerks have completed their tours of duty and resumed
passed the flowering stage and the seedpods had burst and their peace-time occupations, Desert Magazine will publish a
emptied their contents in the sand. There are two possible mapped motorlog of this trip.
explanations of this odd fact. One is that the storm waters which In the meantime, we can be grateful to the ancient Indian
carried the seeds to the lower canyon had been so timed as to women who chose for many of their grinding mills such enor-
give them a later start. The other possible clue is that in being mous boulders that no museum archeologist or common pot-
JANUARY, 1945 37
hunter can cart them off. Anza park will always have many of and Vallecito has been well guarded at much less than a full-
these relics of the prehistoric people who occupied this area. time custodian's salary.
* * * * * *
Out of the war will come many veterans with health impaired Since it is no longer a military secret, perhaps those who have
by injury or illness. Uncle Sam has made generous provision for been reading Desert during the past year will be interested to
these men, both in hospitalization and in pensions after they know that my army assignment in Africa where I wrote the
Sahara Diary stories was at the oasis of Atar in French
receive their discharges from the hospitals.
Mauretania.
Economically, they will be fairly secure. But there will remain This field was on the air route from Dakar to Casablanca,
the all-important problem of regaining their health and strength. and was maintained to service bomber and transport planes
Many of them will have ailments for which the most curative which crossed the South Atlantic and then turned north over the
environment will be the dry warm air and sunshine of the Sahara to reach the Mediterranean and European theaters of war.
desert. One of the interesting things which came to light during my
Under the Izac law, these men may obtain for a very small tour of duty there was the relationship between the Arabs of the
fee—$1.00 an acre a year—a five-acre homesite on the public oasis, and the nomads who followed their goats and sheep out
domain. And since most of the public land now available is in on the grazing areas of the desert.
the Southwest, there will be no difficulty in finding healthful The aristocrats of the Sahara are the nomads. They disdained
locations. such luxuries as permanent mud houses and brick fireplaces.
Some of these veterans will be strong enough to erect their When the dates were ripe they moved their black tents in and
own modest cabins, and will find interest and gain health in camped among the trees until the fruit was gone—then silently
the occupation. Since it is the policy of the Department of took the camel trails that led back to their various camping
Interior to open tracts of considerable acreage, the men may sites—wherever the flocks happened to be grazing.
colonize in groups, just as they did at Twentynine Palms, It was no hardship to them to be far-removed from medical
California, following World War I. Cooperatively, they can service and luxury foods. They are a lean hardy race of people—
put down wells and provide recreational facilities without great dignified yet hospitable. Their interest in the war is very remote.
cost to the individual. They only ask that they be left alone to follow their traditional
Desert Magazine readers who have friends or acquaintances way of life.
being discharged from the armed forces for disability reasons, * * *
can render them a service by calling their attention to the five- Since returning home I have been asked many times about
acre homesite law. Information as to the lands available may be the future of the British and French colonies in Africa. Do the
obtained, and applications filed, at any U. S. Land Office. natives want their independence? Are they qualified to govern
* # * themselves?
There is a very important service that may be rendered by I am sure that the nomads out on the Sahara need no govern-
some of the partly disabled war veterans—if county and state ing state to regiment their way of life. Like the American
and park authorities are willing to cooperate. Indians before this continent was invaded by Europeans, the
I can think of scores of oases and waterholes and camping Arabs have worked out a comparatively peaceful family and
places in the desert Southwest which have suffered for lack tribal relationship which serves their purpose. Nothing would
of custodians. There was no one present to assume the respon- be gained by seeking to impose changes on them.
sibility for keeping the springs cleaned out, for enforcing fire But while the problem of peace is simple enough in a
control, for coaching untidy campers, and for keeping a watchful sparsely settled region, it becomes fearfully complex when
eye against defacement of trees and landmarks. population becomes dense and people crowd together in great
cities. And since cities are a natural result of dense population—
Two places I have especially in mind—Tinajas Altas on the
even in black tropical Africa—it is meaningless to cite the
Camino del Diablo in Arizona, and Hidden Springs in the
nomad Arab or the American Indian way of life as a model for
Orocopia mountains in Riverside county, California, have suf-
social and political organization.
fered serious damage from the vandalism of thoughtless visitors.
There are countless other places—some of them inside of state During the time I spent in a half dozen African colonies,
and national parks—where a custodian on duty not only would under both French and British rule, my conclusion was that,
preserve the charm of the local landscape, but would be an with the possible exception of the Arabs on the Sahara, the
important source of historical and travel information for visitors. natives were not ready for self-government. Their own leaders,
wise in the ways of the white man, probably would subject them
It happens that a majority of the native palm oases in the
to more damaging exploitation than is now imposed by their
Southwest are located in Riverside county. The damage in these
European overlords.
oases has been especially serious because dry palm fronds are
very inflammable. But that is not the final answer. United States, in my opinion,
The supervisors of Riverside county have said very frankly has provided the best solution to the colonial problem in our
that they do not feel justified in employing a full-time custodian handling of the Philippines.
at the prevailing wage scale for every oasis. Probably they are We sent engineers and teachers to help them prepare for
right. But wouldn't it be practicable to erect a modest little their independence. We built roads and schools and hospitals,
cabin—not too conspicuously located—and allot a small salary and provided them with coaches to instruct and train them in
to a war-pensioned veteran who would remain there on duty, the way of self-government. Then we set the date on which we
and regain his health while he was serving as local ranger or would resign our management of their affairs. While the
custodian? Scores of men could be employed in such roles in the Japanese war has upset the timetable, I am sure the program
Anza Desert state park without making a serious dent in the eventually will be carried out in good faith. The Philippines will
state park budget. have their independence.
As a matter of fact San Diego county for years has maintained United States and Russia, if they are so inclined, will be in a
a similar service at the old Vallecito stage station on the Butter- powerful position at the end of this war to demand that the
field stage route. Bob Crawford runs his herd of cattle in a European-held colonies in Africa and Asia be dealt with
nearby mountain valley, and serves as custodian of the restored according to the pattern we already have provided. And if that
adobe stage building. He spends a few hours a week at the is done, one of the most serious threats to permanent peace
station, and keeps a watchful eye over it the rest of the time— will have been removed.
JANUARY, 1945 39
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