Physical Oceanography: Introduction

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Physical Oceanography: Introduction

Lecture 1: The subject of physical oceanography Scales Ocean waves, Eddies Ocean bathymetry Sea Level Height Ocean circulation and the Gulf Stream: the first look Sunlight penetration into the ocean Lectures 1 2, reading: Stewart chapters 1-2-3

Scales and Phenomena:

Ocean circulation

Molecular diffusion versus vertical turbulent mixing

Scales

~1mm

1cm-10m Smyth and Moum 2001

Surface gravity-capillary waves /1-5cm/

Surface wind waves

Tsunami

Tides

Internal gravity waves

Internal gravity waves

Instability Waves in the Tropical Pacific and Atlantic a snapshot of sea surface temperatures (SST)

Ocean circulation

Circulation strength (water volume transport) is measured in Sverdrups (Sv=106m3/s). The Gulfstram transport ~30Sv through the Florida straight

The Gulf Stream and ocean eddies

The Gulf Stream and ocean eddies

cold

warm

Gulf Stream meanders lead to the formation of a spinning eddy, a ring. Notice that rings have a diameter of about 1. After Ring Group (1981). This is a mechanism of heat, salt (pole-ward) and mass (equator-ward) transport

Each frame 7days; 2 years total

The Antartctic Circumpolar Current and its eddies

Mean Speed

A snapshot

Eddies:

Salinity and velocity at 260m in HadCM

GCMs = General Circulation Models


solve the primitive equations of motion (PDEs), i.e. the Navier-Stokes equations with forcing in spherical coordinates with appropriate boundary conditions at the ocean surface:

u, v horizontal velocity w vertical velocity p pressure density s salinity potential temperature t time latitude longitude z depth f the Coriolis parameter

GCMs can simulate ocean largescale features: thermal and salinity structures -> density structure (stratification) distributions of chemical tracers (e.g. oxygen) sea level elevation (SLH) general circulation and currents

T
Ocean thermal structure

Pacific Ocean

S
Ocean salinity

Atlantic Ocean

Oxygen concentration, Atlantic

Sea Level Height (with respect to the geoid)


meters

1. Ocean 2. Reference ellipsoid 3. Local plumb line 4. Continent 5. Geoid

Wikipedia

The geoid is a surface to which the force of gravity is everywhere perpendicular Differences between the reference ellipsoid and the geoid are ~100m Sea Surface Heights anomalies are ~1m

Ocean circulation

Circulation strength (water volume transport) is measured in Sverdrups (Sv=106m3/s). The Gulf Stream transport ~30Sv through the Florida straight

Ocean thermohaline circulation

Whereas the circulation of surface waters is driven by winds, the circulation of the deep waters depends on density differences. Circulation in the depths of the ocean is often referred to as thermohaline circulation. The deep ocean is layered with the densest water on bottom and the lightest water on top. Water tends to move horizontally throughout the deep ocean, moving along lines of equal density. Vertical circulation is thus limited because it is easier for water to move along lines of constant density (isopycnals) than across them.

Ocean Bathymetry:

Elevation km

Average Depth: 3720m 4000m the Marianas trench 11,000m

Slope or aspect ratio:

H/L<<1

Schematic section through the ocean showing principal features of the sea floor (ocean topography). The slope of the sea floor is greatly exaggerated in the figure. Ocean bottom is largely flat (very small aspect ratio)

Vertical exaggeration of 180:1

Vertical exaggeration of 30:1

Cross-section of the south Atlantic along 25S showing the continental shelf offshore of South America, a seamount near 35W, the mid-Atlantic Ridge near 14W, the Walvis Ridge near 6E, and the narrow continental shelf off South Africa. The ocean has a very low aspect ratio!

The inter-oceanic ridge system of the world ocean and major secondary ridges. Structures with significant impact on ocean currents and properties are labeled. Note the Mid-Atlantic Ridge and the ridge system (forming a sill) near the Drake passage.

Sunlight penetration into the ocean

Louisiana coast and the dynamic coastal region showing the suspended sediments, organic matter and phytoplankton. March 15, 1999. NASA. Note waters of different turbidity.

Sunlight penetration into the ocean

dI = aI; dz

I = I o exp(az)

I irradiance or light intensity (power per square area, Watts/m2) a is attenuation, depends on wavelength and water clarity or turbidity (concentration of sediments and sediment type, concentration of biota, e.g. phytoplankton) z depth

violet

red

Wavelength (nm) Transmittance of daylight in % per meter as a function of wavelength. I: extremely pure ocean water; II: turbid tropical-subtropical water; III: mid-latitude water; 1-9: coastal waters of increasing turbidity.

1-9: coastal waters of increasing turbidity II-III: turbid subtropical/mid-latitude waters


Louisiana coast and the dynamic coastal region showing the suspended sediments, organic matter and phytoplankton. March 15, 1999. NASA. Note waters of different turbidity.

Example 1: Turbid tropical waters (the Gulf of Mexico) water type II transmittance 90% per meter: at the depth of 45m light is at 1% intensity:

Example 2: Coastal waters type 7 (Long Island Sound) transmittance 50% per meter: at the depth of 3m light is at 1% intensity

Sunlight is absorbed near ocean surface

major implications:

1) If you observe temperature 29oC at the surface and 28oC at 100m depth, it is not because of direct sunlight. You cannot heat the ocean below a few tens of meters this way 2) Ocean surface temperatures are generally well correlated with the seasonal cycle. 3) Phytoplankton (the first step in the biological food chain) and hence zooplankton live largely near the surface

phytoplankton (e.g. algae, cyanobacterium) account for approximately 50% to 90% photosynthesis on this planet

zooplankton graze on the pastures of phytoplankton

Ocean color is largely related to the concentration of chlorophyll (an indicator of ocean productivity, i.e. ocean production of biomass)

Chlorophyll concentration below the ocean surface

High productivity: Coastal and equatorial upwelling regions and regions with strong vertical mixing. There is a strong seasonality in high latitudes

Oxygen concentration

Q: Why is there an oxygen minimum? Biomass is produced near the surface; it falls down while being consumed below 50m or so by aerobic bacteria. By 1000m 90% of organic matter is oxygenized.

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