Physical Oceanography: Introduction
Physical Oceanography: Introduction
Physical Oceanography: Introduction
Lecture 1: The subject of physical oceanography Scales Ocean waves, Eddies Ocean bathymetry Sea Level Height Ocean circulation and the Gulf Stream: the first look Sunlight penetration into the ocean Lectures 1 2, reading: Stewart chapters 1-2-3
Ocean circulation
Scales
~1mm
Tsunami
Tides
Instability Waves in the Tropical Pacific and Atlantic a snapshot of sea surface temperatures (SST)
Ocean circulation
Circulation strength (water volume transport) is measured in Sverdrups (Sv=106m3/s). The Gulfstram transport ~30Sv through the Florida straight
cold
warm
Gulf Stream meanders lead to the formation of a spinning eddy, a ring. Notice that rings have a diameter of about 1 . After Ring Group (1981). This is a mechanism of heat, salt (pole-ward) and mass (equator-ward) transport
Mean Speed
A snapshot
Eddies:
u, v horizontal velocity w vertical velocity p pressure density s salinity potential temperature t time latitude longitude z depth f the Coriolis parameter
GCMs can simulate ocean largescale features: thermal and salinity structures -> density structure (stratification) distributions of chemical tracers (e.g. oxygen) sea level elevation (SLH) general circulation and currents
T
Ocean thermal structure
Pacific Ocean
S
Ocean salinity
Atlantic Ocean
Wikipedia
The geoid is a surface to which the force of gravity is everywhere perpendicular Differences between the reference ellipsoid and the geoid are ~100m Sea Surface Heights anomalies are ~1m
Ocean circulation
Circulation strength (water volume transport) is measured in Sverdrups (Sv=106m3/s). The Gulf Stream transport ~30Sv through the Florida straight
Whereas the circulation of surface waters is driven by winds, the circulation of the deep waters depends on density differences. Circulation in the depths of the ocean is often referred to as thermohaline circulation. The deep ocean is layered with the densest water on bottom and the lightest water on top. Water tends to move horizontally throughout the deep ocean, moving along lines of equal density. Vertical circulation is thus limited because it is easier for water to move along lines of constant density (isopycnals) than across them.
Ocean Bathymetry:
Elevation km
H/L<<1
Schematic section through the ocean showing principal features of the sea floor (ocean topography). The slope of the sea floor is greatly exaggerated in the figure. Ocean bottom is largely flat (very small aspect ratio)
Cross-section of the south Atlantic along 25 S showing the continental shelf offshore of South America, a seamount near 35 W, the mid-Atlantic Ridge near 14 W, the Walvis Ridge near 6 E, and the narrow continental shelf off South Africa. The ocean has a very low aspect ratio!
The inter-oceanic ridge system of the world ocean and major secondary ridges. Structures with significant impact on ocean currents and properties are labeled. Note the Mid-Atlantic Ridge and the ridge system (forming a sill) near the Drake passage.
Louisiana coast and the dynamic coastal region showing the suspended sediments, organic matter and phytoplankton. March 15, 1999. NASA. Note waters of different turbidity.
dI = aI; dz
I = I o exp( az)
I irradiance or light intensity (power per square area, Watts/m2) a is attenuation, depends on wavelength and water clarity or turbidity (concentration of sediments and sediment type, concentration of biota, e.g. phytoplankton) z depth
violet
red
Wavelength (nm) Transmittance of daylight in % per meter as a function of wavelength. I: extremely pure ocean water; II: turbid tropical-subtropical water; III: mid-latitude water; 1-9: coastal waters of increasing turbidity.
Example 1: Turbid tropical waters (the Gulf of Mexico) water type II transmittance 90% per meter: at the depth of 45m light is at 1% intensity:
Example 2: Coastal waters type 7 (Long Island Sound) transmittance 50% per meter: at the depth of 3m light is at 1% intensity
major implications:
1) If you observe temperature 29oC at the surface and 28oC at 100m depth, it is not because of direct sunlight. You cannot heat the ocean below a few tens of meters this way 2) Ocean surface temperatures are generally well correlated with the seasonal cycle. 3) Phytoplankton (the first step in the biological food chain) and hence zooplankton live largely near the surface
phytoplankton (e.g. algae, cyanobacterium) account for approximately 50% to 90% photosynthesis on this planet