Sustainable Fashion Textiles Design

Purpose- Personal branding has become a mature field of research; however, there are many ques-tions to be answered yet. One of the most important questions is that what does a typical entrepre-neurial business model look like? Design/methodology/approach- To answer the above question, the present paper tries to use meta-analysis approach to making an integrated view of the extant literature. Thus, 25 papers, which were mainly focusing on the topic, was selected and critically reviewed. Finally, a framework is proposed based on Osterwalder's (2004) approach. Findings- Findings of this research are mainly focused on the characteristics of each dimension in the entrepreneurial business model for personal branding. Research limitations/implications- Research implications imply that a typical entrepreneurial busi-ness model for personal branding might be helpful for both entrepreneurs as well as policy makers. Research paper Reference to this paper should be made as follows: Raftari...

The overconsumption of fashion products has resulted in an abundance of secondhand apparel and textiles, which are still functional, but have been discarded because they are no longer fashionable. This secondhand apparel can be recycled in various ways, including repurposing the fabric into a new apparel and/or accessory product. This method of apparel and textile recycling was the focus of this study. Apparel designers creating repurposed apparel and/or accessories were surveyed to better understand the process they go through when repurposing apparel and textiles. Roger's (1983) Diffusion of Innovations Theory was used as the theoretical basis for this study. The innovation characteristics were used to predict the designer's current and future usage of the process of repurposing. The researcher also measured the designer's opinion leadership and environmental awareness to determine the effect on the perceptions of the innovation characteristics and the current and future usage of the process of repurposing. Results of the content analysis show there is no standardized process for repurposing and a proposed process was created as a result of this study. The results of the multiple regression indicated that the innovation characteristics are significant in predicting the current and future usage of the process. The results of the MANOVA indicated no significant difference between the levels of the designer's opinion leadership and environmental awareness on their perceptions of the innovation characteristics or their current and future usage of the process of repurposing. Repurposing apparel and textiles could be a solution to the problem of fashion overconsumption and could keep unwanted secondhand apparel and textiles out of the landfill and preserve precious natural resources for future generations.

In the neoliberal modern era, craftsmen face significant challenges from competition from national chain stores throughout Turkey, which has more negative consequences in regions like Ardahan. From this perspective, the disappearance of craftsmen in provinces like Ardahan not only poses a serious problem for regional development, but also leads to irreversible disadvantages for the sociology, economy and cultural dynamics of the province. Aim: Based on this assertion, the objectives of the study are to examine the situation and problems of the craftsmen, as well as how competition with national chain stores (ŞOK, BİM, A101, Migros, Carrefour, Koçtaş, etc.) affects them.

The fashion industry, long known for its environmental impact, has recently seen the emergence of a new wave of ecofriendly fashion start-ups that are pioneering sustainable practices.by growing concern about environmental damages and ethical practices, consumers are also getting attracted towards clothing brands that prioritize eco-friendly materials These innovative companies are challenging the traditional linear model of fashion production and consumption by adopting circular economy principles, promoting ethical manufacturing, and offering consumers more sustainable clothing options. This paper examines the growth of eco-friendly fashion start-ups, their unique approaches to sustainability, and the impact they are having on the broader fashion industry.

Sürdürülebilirliğin temel amacı doğanın varlığını devam ettirmesidir. Bu doğrultuda sürdürülebilir moda tasarımı, moda üretiminde doğaya daha az zarar verilmesini sağlamayı hedeflemektedir. Günümüz doğrusal moda üretim sistemleri, yap- kullan-at bakış açısına sahiptir. Doğrusal ekonomi sistemine alternatif olarak geliştirilen döngüsel ekonomi sistemi ile sürdürülebilir bir iş modeli yaklaşımı geliştirilmiştir. Moda endüstrisinde, döngüsel ekonomi yaklaşımı hammadde temini, tasarım, üretim ve kullanıcı sonrası hizmetlerini içeren geniş bir süreci kapsamaktadır.
Bu araştırmada olay incelemesi yöntemi ile H&M döngüsellik yaklaşımı incelenmiştir. Bu kapsamda ikincil veriler kullanılarak firmanın üretim süreci döngüsel moda tasarımı çerçevesinde incelenmektedir. H&M’in Döngüsel moda tasarımı, ürün planlama ve tasarım evresi ile başlamakta ve tüketici sonrası atıkların azaltılmasına yönelik stratejilerle sona ermektedir. H&M Grubunun, döngüsel ekonomi yaklaşımı ile geliştirdiği iş modeli ile tasarım ve üretim evrelerinde nelere dikkat ettiği incelenmiştir. H&M tasarım stratejileri detaylıca araştırılmış ve H&M grubunun alt giyim markaları olan Arket, Monki ve Weekday’in döngüsel moda tasarımı ile üretilmiş giysi tasarımları incelenmiştir. Seri üretim yapan firmalar döngüsel moda tasarım stratejisi doğrultusunda giysi tasarımları yapmalı ve tüketici satış sonrası hizmetleri bu süreci benimseyerek planlanmalıdır.

Identificationof a murder weapon can be done by analyzing weapon transfer stains(if any) together with othercircumstantial evidence at a crime scene .Hand transfer stains, shoe transfer stains as also weapontransfer stains left at a crime scene play an integral role in the reconstruction of the crime scene, henceproper documentation of such stains is mandatory. The structure of textile has a profound effect on the formation of the bloodstain pattern. So in coherence with the work of Slemko and White, the authors present in this paper that fabric stain patterns should in all probability be carefully studied and analyzed.

The structure of the fashion industry in various geographical regions, along with its production history and practices, plays a pivotal role in shaping the adoption and implementation of sustainable strategies. This study examines the fashion industry’s structure in Ghana as a fundamental step in considering the adoption and implementation of sustainable strategies. To facilitate the selection of respondents for this preliminary study, we employed a Google survey, utilizing a snowball technique to identify participations in the two major cities in Ghana. The survey specifically targeted fashion producers operating within the small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) with retail outlets. Collected data from Google Forms were collated with Microsoft Excel and subsequently analyzed. The findings unveiled that young businesses often operate as sole proprietorship, with their founders serving as lead designers, primarily selling directly to end users. While previous studies have document...

This paper reports on a research project aimed at exploring how designers can activate and sustain entrepreneurial ventures within regional textile communities in the Philippines and the UK. The mindset of consumers, who believe that textiles and fashion should be cheap, has made it difficult to successfully enable regional textile communities. With this in mind, two case studies were undertaken through semi-structured interviews with stakeholders involved in creative enterprises within regional textile communities in the Philippines and the UK. Findings from the research demonstrate how design-driven approaches to entrepreneurship can lead to reaching an untapped market and securing consumer demand for products and services that are better for people and the planet. The original contribution of the paper lies in the development of a business model meta-canvas, informed by an original conceptual framework that, once successfully adopted, could activate and sustain enterprises in regional textile communities.

Elämme ajassa, jonka arvoja ja toimintaa määrittää ekokriisi. Olen vuosia pohtinut, miten elää arkea ja toimia skenografina esittävän taiteen alalla kestävästi ja vastuullisesti. Yhtenä ratkaisuyrityksenäni on ollut suunnitella ja toteuttaa maailmointia jo olemassa olevista materiaaleista taidokkaasti ja laadusta tinkimättä kestävyyden ulottuvuuksia tutkien, kokeillen ja soveltaen. Esittävät taiteet, ja tässä opinnäytetyössä näyttämötaiteen teos, voi olla yksi avaus uudelle tarinalle kestävämmän olemisen ja ajattelun puolesta. Tässä tutkimuksessa selvitän, miten ekoskenografinen lähestymistapa vaikuttaa skenografisiin ratkaisuihin suunnittelun ja toteuttamisen vaiheessa näyttämötaiteen teoksen konkretisoiduttua näyttämölle tilana sekä henkilöhahmoina. Aineisto koostuu Kajaanin kaupunginteatteriin toteutetun Making of Lea teatteriesityksen skenografian suunnittelun sekä valmistamisen prosessin monipuolisesta dokumentoinnista, valmistetuista näyttämöpuvuista ja lavaste-elementeistä sekä esityskauden aikana saaduista teatteriarvioinneista ja katsojapalautteesta. Aineiston analysointimenetelmänä on käytetty Grounded theory menetelmää, jolloin tutkimuksen tuloksena on rakentunut tapauskohtainen teoria ekoskenografisesta prosessista skenografin taiteellisessa työssä. Tutkimus osoittaa, miten taiteellisen prosessin aikana kuljetaan edestakaisin vielä vallalla olevan mekanistisen ja kehittyvän kokonaisvaltaisen ekologisen maailmankuvan välillä. Ekoskenografia käytännön työssä vaatii yhteistä tietoista ja aktiivista halua toimia sosioekologisten arvojen mukaisesti, jolloin arvoista muodostuu vähitellen toimintaa ja ekologisia käytäntöjä. Taiteen toimijoiden omaksuttua työskentelyynsä ekologinen lähestymistapa on mahdollisuus laajentaa estetiikkaa ja käytänteitä kohti laajempaa yhteisöä. Kestävä elämäntapa ja taide on toivottava tulevaisuus. Ekoskenografian arvot sekä tutkimuksen aikana rakentunut teoria antavat suuntia ja keinoja toimia yhdessä proaktiivisesti tämän toivotun tulevaisuuden saavuttamiseksi.

In this work, physiological characteristics of the socks made from yarns with similar physical and mechanical properties but of different raw materials (100 % bamboo fibers, 100 % cotton fibers, 100 % viscose, and blend with ratio 60 % cotton/40 % PES) were investigated. The socks were knit with plain right-left 1:1 stitch and a ribbed 3:1 right-left stitch. In both stitches, the socks made from the bamboo yarn showed much better thermo-physiological characteristics compared to those made from conventional fiber yarns. Because of micro-cracks in the structure of fibers,the knitwear made from bamboo yarn has much better moisture absorption and at the same time the excellent ventilation and keeps the warmth. This contributes to the feeling of freshness and relaxation and has a particularly good effect of cooling in the summer. All this suggests that in the future, due to its properties, the bamboo fiber and yarn made from it will be increasingly used in the textile industry.

Air and water vapour permeability, thickness and thermal resistance of fabrics are some of the most important parameters to determine clothing comfort. However, these parameters tend to change after laundering in daily use. In this study, changes in the thermal comfort properties of cellulosic fabrics used in underwear and sock production, due to repeated laundering, were investigated. For this purpose, 100% cotton, viscose, Viloft, Modal, Promodal and Tencel fabrics, in single jersey construction, were selected and the thickness, air permeability, water vapour permeability and thermal resistance of the fabrics were measured initially and after 5, 10 and 15 repeated launderings. The obtained data were analysed by statistical techniques. According to the results, increasing the number of laundering cycles decreases air permeability and increases thickness and thermal resistance, in general. However, relative water vapour permeability decreases up to a number of laundering cycles and increases from this point on, upon further increasing the number of laundering cycles. The material type was found to be more influential than thickness on the thermal resistance values in this study. In conclusion, repeated laundering and material type significantly affect the comfort properties of fabrics.

A água é um insumo vastamente utilizado nos diversos segmentos industriais e sobretudo nas unidades têxteis, seja como utilidade, ou como meio de transporte, veículo para os diversos produtos químicos empregados nos processos, bem como para enxágue e remoção do excesso dessas substâncias consideradas indesejáveis para os diferentes substratos têxteis. Mais especificamente, nas unidades de beneficiamento, a água participa praticamente em todas as etapas, e de modo direto nos processos de lavagem, tingimento e amaciamento. Por outro lado, a energia, também fundamental para a operação das unidades industriais, e empregada na unidade de estudo, é proveniente de distribuição de rede pública, mas conta também de forma suplementar com um gerador de alta potência e uma caldeira. O gerador de vapor é alimentado por cavacos de madeira e outros resíduos industriais, gerando calor para o aquecimento de alguns equipamentos. Assim, evidenciando a relevância da temática da economia das duas principais utilidades industriais, contextualizado de forma bastante pertinente, sobretudo diante do atual quadro de escassez hídrica e de crise energética no estado, o presente trabalho consiste de estudo avaliativo do consumo desses insumos em indústria têxtil, evidenciando os pontos de reuso e de economia, e com base em iniciativas de projeto e operacionais apresenta os resultados efetivos decorrentes da utilização dessa estratégia.

The objective of this paper is to increase a better understanding that how business models evolve to include more environmentally friendly solutions and sustainability in the apparel industry. This study has been reviewed by focusing on what forms a more sustainable model for the apparel industry can be generated from a firm level, the purpose of this paper is to show and explore difficulties and opportunities for a sustainable business model development in the apparel industry The study demonstrates that adopting a business model that incorporates more sustainability which has both benefits and challenges.

The effects of the development of technology in the field of industry have manifested themselves in the rapid growth of the consumer society and the gaining weight of events such as ready-to-wear and fashion that will cause economic, ecological and social problems. The unsustainability of the increasing damage caused by the accelerated consumption and the facts and mechanisms that feed it has created the need to make these phenomena sustainable. The struggle to maintain the natural balance that emerged in line with this need has brought sustainability to the top of today's most important production and consumption problems. The concept of sustainability in the field of textile brought attention to issues such as environment, labor force and human health, and caused the development of concepts such as "green consumer" and "green consumption". This study focuses on the successful and sustainable textile production and fashion strategies of brands such as H&M and ZARA operating in the fast fashion sector with sustainability. Despite the high costs of the ready-made clothing industry with the 4R (reducereuse-recycle and rebuy) principle, they have chosen to produce significantly less damage with sustainable production methods and have received positive feedback from consumers. It is thought that these successes of fast fashion brands will give more importance to "sustainability" on a sectoral basis.

Values such as circularity, local production, and the use of more environmental-friendly materials have started to reshape various domestic industries. Because of the social and environmental challenges that the Textile & Clothing industry faces, solutions proper to slow fashion practices are gaining importance. The present chapter presents a case study of a local production network that roots in the maker movement and experiments with various aspects of circular practices, to develop new material: the Tomato Textile project. Based on ethnography and action research methods, the challenges of entrepreneurial practices in eco-innovation are identified and discussed.

The fashion industry is currently undergoing a radical change towards an overall sustainable paradigm shift. This paper investigates how the fashion collection, as a particular design framework, might be reconfigured as a strategic driver for garment longevity furthering sustainable fashion design. The study builds on a case study of a company offering a subscription service for baby clothing, exploring in detail whether and how the collection is used as a strategic design tool. In the analysis and discussion, feedback from users, manufacturers and the garments themselves plays a crucial role in the development of the collection. To some degree this differs from the development of a linear fashion collection. The paper concludes by suggesting a framework for using the collection as a strategic design tool designing garments for a product service system while adopting a circular economy thinking.

This article proposes to develop a relationship between behavioral tendencies, the work of Hundertwasser’s artist and the Slow fashion movement, and understand better how fashion influences personal attitudes and how it has contributed to huge changes of the current market. Demonstrate through the behavioral analysis that each identity is built from the consumes and way of life.

Kantha is an embroidery of West Bengal which has its origin in the reuse of old saris and dhotis worn by women and men of West Bengal [6]. The art originated as a household craft mainly practiced by rural Bengali housewives. This embroidery was done using colored threads taken out from the borders of old saris. The base fabric was made by using layers of old saris and dhotis. At that time rural women produced furnishing items like bed spread, wallet, cloth wrappers, mirror cover, floor covering etc with Kantha embroidery. It was also used as a medium of cultural and religious significance [1]. The Kantha embroidered products were mandatory for ceremonies like marriages birth, and religious rituals. In Kantha the stitches used were very simple but the compositions were done very creatively. The motifs embroidered were derived from ancient art and these symbols were reflection of nature such as sun, the tree of life and the universe [9]. They also were inspired from the surrounding and day to day life of human being. The embroidery which began as a household work has been taken up by the designers and they have brought it to the niche market along with giving jobs to many women. This paper discusses how designers have elevated the status of Kantha embroidery and empowered women to be an entrepreneur.

ÖZET Tasarımcılar, giysi tasarımında yeni biçimler ve farklı atmosferler yaratmak için giysinin rengi, dokusu, yüzey kompozisyonu, malzemesi, hacmi ve silüet özellikleri üzerinde oynayarak bunları kendi tasarım felsefeleri doğrultusunda yorumlarlar. Bu deneme ve arayışlar içerisinde giysinin yapısı ve yüzeyini kurgulamada öne çıkan tekniklerden birisi plidir. Pli sonsuz sayıda yüzey, biçim ve etki üretmeye uygundur. Bu sebeple yeni, deneysel ve özgün bir tasarım deneyimi için başlıca bir unsur olarak öne çıkar. Endüstri devriminden günümüze pli yaygın olarak hemen her tasarımcının uyguladığı bir teknik olmuştur. Ancak bu tekniği tasarım dilinin temeli olarak gören az sayıda tasarımcı vardır. Mariano Fortuny, Madame Grès, Roberto Capucci ve İssey Miyake, pliyi tasarımlarını oluşturan temel öge olarak görmüş ve kendi özgün tasarım anlayışları doğrultusunda yorumlayıp kullanmışlardır. Her birinde pli tekniği giysinin yapısına ve görüntüsüne farklı özellikler katmış, bu tasarımcıların tasarım dillerinin yansımasının aracı olmuştur.

Because clothing is intimately entangled with human social, cultural and political expressions, fashion is one of the most important areas in which to explore emerging strategies of sustainability and circular economy….. Fur, they argue, becomes an interesting material from a circular economy perspective precisely because of its longevity and the strategic use practices that extend its lifetime….. The move toward circular economy requires substantial changes in design thinking, material science and new technologies, production, user engagement, maintenance, re-use markets and waste management. But too often, circular economy models show material flows that are stripped of their sociality. Focusing on fur, the ReNew report makes a strategic intervention to change that tendency by demonstrating how the use phase matters through consumer attachment.

The paper is based on a training programme given to researchers in the Textiles Environment Design (TED) project at the University of the Arts London (UAL). The programme took place over three years (September 2010 to October 2013) whilst the researchers were engaged as consultants and researchers for Hennes and Mauritz (H&M) and the Sustainable Fashion Academy (SFA) in Stockholm, Sweden. The project was developed as part of the Mistra Future Fashion research consortium, which aims to bring scientists and designers together to find sustainable and profitable industry solutions. The TED's TEN sustainable design strategies for textiles and fashion was the framework for the Sustainable Design Inspiration (SDI) work at H&M-a broad and holistic approach to redesigning products including materials, process, systems, services, consumer behaviour and activism.

Tutkimus on laadullinen tapaustutkimus, joka käsittelee vastuullisuuden toteutumista suomalaisessa vaatetusalan yrityksessä. Tapaustutkimuksessani tutkin suomalaista naistenvaateyritystä, Vogliaa. Tutkimukseni tavoitteena on määritellä, mitä vaatetusalan vastuullisuus tarkoittaa ja miten sen tulisi näkyä yritysten toiminnassa niin yrityksen arvojen kuin vaatetussuunnittelun ja tuotannonkin näkökulmasta. Tutkimuksessani pyrin vastaamaan kolmeen kysymykseen: mitkä asiat vaikuttavat vastuullisuuteen vaatetusalan yrityksessä?, mikä on vaatetussuunnittelun merkitys yrityksen vastuullisuudelle? ja miten vaatetusalan yritys voi vaikuttaa tuotantonsa vastuullisuuteen?. Tutkimuskysymysten ratkaisun pohjalta tavoitteenani on muodostaa kokonaisvaltaisen vastuullisuuden malli, jota sekä tapausyritykseni Voglia että muut suomalaiset vaatetusalan yritykset voivat hyödyntää matkallaan kohti vastuullista toimintaa. Tutkimusaineiston analyysimenetelmänä käytän aineistolähtöistä sisällönanalyysiä. Analysoitava aineisto koostuu tapaustutkimuksen kolmen teemahaastattelun lisäksi yhdestä asiantuntijahaastattelusta. Tutkimuksen tulokset osoittavat, että yrityksen vastuullisuus on kokonaisvaltaista silloin, kun vastuullisuuden osa-alueet ovat tasapainoisessa vuorovaikutussuhteessa keskenään. Yritykset ovat avoimia vastuulliselle toiminnalle, mutta kaipaavat apua vastuullisuutensa vahvistamisessa ja ohjaamisessa, sillä nykyisellään yritysten resurssit eivät riitä kokonaisvaltaisen vastuullisuuden toteuttamiseen. Avainsanat: vastuullisuus, vastuullinen vaatetussuunnittelu, yrityksen vastuullisuus, vastuullinen tuotanto, vastuullisuuden malli, kokonaisvaltainen vastuullisuus Muita tietoja: Suostun tutkielman luovuttamiseen kirjastossa käytettäväksi X Suostun tutkielman luovuttamiseen Lapin maakuntakirjastossa käytettäväksi X (vain Lappia koskevat)

Gunumuzde gelisen teknoloji, degisen tuketim aliskanliklari ile endustrinin her alaninda urun cesitliligini beraberinde getirmektedir. Bununla birlikte hizli tuketim olgusu uretim sureclerindeki donguleri tetikleyerek hammadde kullanimini ve bu sureclerde aciga cikan atiklari artirmaktadir. Arastirmacilar atik degerlendirme yontemlerini hem sektorel hem de teknolojik acilardan ele almaktadir. Bu calismada ozellikle tekstil atiklarinin yeniden degerlendirilmesi ile ilgili yaklasimlar ve yontemler incelenmistir. Farkli tekstil uretim teknolojilerinde uygulanan geri donusum yontemleri ve elde edilen urunler hakkinda literaturde yer alan guncel calismalarla ilgili bilgi sunulmustur. Ayni zamanda Usak ili ozelinde tekstilde geri donusum olanaklarinin mevcut durumu hakkinda guncel veriler degerlendirilmistir. Tekstil atiklarinin hammadde olarak kullanilmasiyla uretilecek yenilikci ve katma degeri yuksek urunler sayesinde cevresel ve ekonomik anlamda kazanc saglanacagi soylenebilmektedir. ...

Absorbent products can be broadly grouped as disposable diapers, training shorts, women's hygienic products (pads and tampons) and incontinence diapers. Although these products were perceived as luxury items in the past, their usage has increased greatly because of their ...

O presente artigo tempo por objetivo apresentar investigação realizada em colaboração entre uma designer de moda e um artista de formas animadas (artefatos voltados para as Artes Cênicas), ambos professores da Universidade Federal de Goiás com o interesse em obter materiais de baixo custo, de preferência, sustentáveis que possam servir ao ensino na produção de materiais têxteis para a produção de acessórios, bolsas, sapatos e vestes, bem como para o campo do figurino, criação de próteses, adereços cênicos, máscaras ou bonecos. Em geral, alunos e professores de universidades públicas sofrem com a escassez de recursos para a compra de materiais específicos. Com isso, aproveitou-se a necessidade para um estudo de caráter experimental na combinação de técnicas tipicamente usadas no campo das artes cênicas na produção de vidros cênicos ou de bonecos com experimentos atualmente realizados por pesquisadores, estudantes e designers de moda no campo do bioplásticos. De estudos já realizados no campo, têm-se como principal referência os experimentos com bioplásticos de gelatina realizados por Clara Davis com a orientação de Anastasia Pistofidou no laboratório FabTextiles associado ao IAAC (Institute for Advanced Architecture of Catalonia) em 2017. Outros trabalhos já realizados são “Recipes for Material Activism” (2014) escrito por Miriam Ribul, no qual apresenta uma série de receitas possíveis de serem feitas na própria cozinha afim de obter materiais sustentáveis e biodegradáveis ao gerar autonomia em suas próprias produções de artefatos. Outros experimentos com bioplástico de chia, psyllium, foram descritos por Liwen Zhoong, Hannah Green e Josephine Leonhardt (2015) em “Fibre Fabrics”. Em geral, as principais inconsistências para o uso disseminado de tais materiais feitos de modo caseiro é a falta de impermeabilidade no material, o baixo índice de tração e a curta durabilidade (característica que pode ser vista de maneira positiva em comparação ao ritmo acelerado das tendências de moda e a possibilidade de rápida reposição, bem como, decomposição). 
Nesse sentido, buscamos experimentar a receita de bioplástico de amido de mandioca por seus resultados já apresentarem uma maior resistência à tração, impermeabilidade e durabilidade. Porém, decidimos adicionar elementos tipicamente usados na produção de próteses, máscaras e bonecos cênicos em diferentes porções afim de catalogar os distintos resultados. Realizamos um teste com a adição de pequenas porções de látex e porções gradativas de cola branca, cuja composição não se apresenta como ingredientes sustentáveis, porém, a baixa quantidade utilizada pode amenizar o impacto. Contudo, nosso principal objetivo seria obter materiais economicamente viáveis para que alunos e professores pudessem utilizá-los em sala de aula, em paralelo, gostaríamos de obter materiais com diferentes características e que fossem sustentáveis. Como conclusões temos a possibilidade de combinação dos bioplásticos de amido de milho com uma pequena porção de látex serem bastante interessantes economicamente para o ensino e como performance de material no que diz respeito à flexibilidade, tração e durabilidade. Porém, tem um tempo de consolidação no cozimento muito rápido para alcançar um estágio adequado. Os testes realizados com o bioplástico de amido de mandioca em combinação com as diferentes porções de cola branca também apresentam boa performance no que diz respeito à flexibilidade, durabilidade e tração com relação ao bioplástico de amido de mandioca sem nenhum desses aditivos. As diferentes porções apresentam distintas densidades do material, todas interessantes, porém, não são completamente sustentáveis pela adição da cola.
Acreditamos que os resultados possam vir a contribuir para o conhecimento, mesmo que empírico, para o campo. Ainda assim, conclui-se que o trabalho colaborativa com profissionais de diferentes áreas e interesses de aplicações do material puderam contribuir com seus conhecimentos específicos afim de atingir o objetivo inicial que seria o de gerar sustentabilidade econômica ao gerar autonomia na produção dos próprios materiais para o campo do ensino.

Fashion is beautiful and magical; however, it is indicated that the fashion industry's production is full of inefficiencies that are no longer acceptable when thinking about a sustainable future on the earth. A garment manufacturing approximately results in 10% - 15% cut-and-sew waste and this problem reaches enormous numbers in mass production. Therefore, the cloth designing stage should be built up to reach no waste. Zero waste fashion design method is a way to eliminate the fashion industry’s waste problem by creating a garment without any cut-and-sew waste. Zero waste fashion design addresses inefficiencies in fabric use by creating innovative ways to find better usage of the whole fabric.
Design education is the head of this flow so this study tried to change fashion students’ awareness about sustainable fashion design. This study's general aim is to create a more consciousness for future fashion designers and also to implement the importance of pattern cutting as an integral part of the fashion design process. Such a new approach to fashion design creates innovative perspectives for the fashion design education and also for the fashion industry.
The project is a part of Sustainable Design Studio consisting of 8 students who attend the 1st year of study in the 2021-2022 academic year. The theme for this project was referring to the world project The [uncertain] Four Seasons which is an algorithmic re-composition of Antonio Vivaldi’s ‘The Four Seasons’ for the year 2050. The starting question was “what type of composition would Vivaldi write in the year 2050 and what kind of garments would be most suitable by zero waste design method for this futuristic not so far away future?”.
First part of the study consists of the zero-waste fashion design method that was introduced to the 1st year students of the Fashion and Textiles department at Faculty of Design (Slovenia), on a sustainable design course. The main aim of this study is to investigate the adaptation process on a Sustainable design course with zero waste fashion design practices.
The method of the study was an interview of the students who voluntarily attended this study. Data collection of this study consists of two parts: firstly, an interview of the students about their knowledge before the lectures and secondly, an interview about their knowledge levels of the zero-waste fashion design method after the lectures. At the end of this project, all students created their own zero waste garment from recycled materials which were based on their individual concepts, one of them is represented in this paper.

The manufacture of Mycelium Leather is a solution to meet the growing demand for animal skins in the fashion industry. Mycotech Lab Indonesia discovered a robust, sustainable, and eco-friendly leather material made from the Mycelium interlacing network. The company provides high-performance and sustainable materials through biotechnology to global markets by empowering local communities and aiming for sustainable product accessibility. The quality of Mycelium Leather (Mylea) consists of several grades from A to E, with leather sheets measuring 18 cm × 18 cm and 20 cm × 20 cm for sale. From the standardization of sizes, there are little pieces of leather left and categorized as waste. This company wants to reduce this waste and turn it into a profit by collaborating with writers. From the potential addition of existing waste, the results are in fashion accessories in the form of earrings that can increase the company's income. The results obtained from this study are steps to reduce Mycelium Leather waste from waste samples provided by Mycotech to become an earring that follows the current fashion trend. Observing several forms of leather accessories on the market and color trends on several trend forecast webs, this waste from Mycelium Leather has excellent potential to develop the Mycotech's business in the fashion accessories line.

The paper proposes a study regarding the dimensional changes during washing process for the 1:1 interlock structures made of 100% cotton yarn with Nm 58/1. The interlock 1:1 structures which are studied are made of 100% cotton yarns, with Z torsion, on Monarch circular knitting machines, with diameter of 30 inch, fineness 20E and 72 knitting systems. Tubular meterage knitwear resulted from this process. After the knitting, the structures were laid for relaxation, and then they were subjected to the washing, drying and relaxation operation. The loosening of the knits for 72 hours was done in air-conditioned areas respecting the parameters of the standard atmosphere to balance the internal tensions introduced into the structures during the knitting and washing operations. The structure parameters of the knitwear modify after the relaxation before finishing process, after finishing and after washing process. The machines where the structures were produced are new generation knitting ma...

The interest in cigar lounges developed in 1990’s when cities and government entities began instituting smoking ban but provided exceptions for establishments that catered to smokers. The current study aims to design a space that provides a pollution free environment. This approach eliminates all the distracting elements and focuses on encouraging one’s interaction with others in a cozy environment. Although, it has been ages that the concept of cigar lounges in Pakistan has become obsolete. The current study aims to revive cigar lounge & to design a deluxe space to fulfill the demands of a cigar Aficionado. This study is focused to design such a space, which is specifically remodeled and acquiesced to create the vibe of a cigar lounge. The importance of the cigar lounge is to stipulate an ethical and smoke free space for the people who treasure to soot a cigar. People who smoke cigar illustrate a status symbol that differs from the typical soul who doesn’t smoke a cigar. They are p...

Sun, air, water and soil are in most of the clothes we wear. In the era of ecological crisis, this international conference aims to investigate the new paradigms of fashion cultures through the four archetypal elements of matter. By doing so, it shifts the attention towards the material and sensory aspects of fashion, features that have been largely neglected by fashion studies over the past forty years. This approach fits in the current debate on the 'material turn' inspired by de-centering the human and re-centering matter and the materiality of things, objects, technologies, and bodies. The conference proposes to analyse this ontological shift through the redefinition of the substance of fashion and its history. In Western and non-Western cultures matter is conceived as a coexistence of multiple elements following a tradition that includes, among others, the cosmological treatise of Aristotle, the Hinduist and Buddhist meditations on the 'primary material elements' (mahabhutas), and Jābir ibn Hayyān's alchemy. The conference takes place in Venice, a city that emerged from water through a process of significant anthropisation, and in which life's rhythms and movements historically coexist and are dependent on a critically changing environment.

Este trabalho objetivou analisar a moda no Rio Grande do Sul, a fim de verificar o comportamento do consumidor gaúcho e se este difere do consumidor paulista. Ele apresenta, primeiramente, um histórico da moda gaúcha e uma análise sucinta da identidade do gaúcho. Em seguida, apresenta um panorama do mercado de moda, tratando do consumidor e dos setores têxtil e de confecção no país e no Estado. Por fim, valendo-se de pesquisa de campo qualitativa aplicada a profissionais de moda, inseridos no mercado gaúcho, o trabalho procura captar a singularidade do consumidor de moda do Rio Grande do Sul.

Fashion, like all ecosystems, is complex and dynamic. The fashion system comprises intangible, and tangible aspects, all of which have significant consequences. The linear structure of this system, used throughout the twentieth century—referred to as ‘take, make and waste’—has set artificial boundaries and driven a wedge between players in this system. This has led to the global fashion, and textiles industry being one of the world’s most polluting industries, and overshadows the potential of the fashion system as a powerful vehicle for social and environmental change. Design can be key to reorienting the fashion system and bringing the disparate parts together. Design research, and practice can generate new ways of understanding, being, and doing ‘fashion’ that acknowledges the complexities and the varieties of fashion(s) in an authentic twenty-first-century context. This exploratory design paper incorporates a multidisciplinary mixed methods approach, and a systems lens to the fas...

Resumo: diante da tragédia de Rana Plaza, em 24 de abril de 2013, o presente artigo busca evidenciar os impactos provocados pelo desastre nos modelos de negócios dos tipos fast fashion e slow fashion. Para tanto, emprega-se uma pesquisa ex-post-facto com vistas a desenhar as consequências do acontecimento. A partir da literatura consultada, estabeleceram-se como categorias de evidência: (I) trabalho; (II) consumo; (III) sociedade; e (IV) indústria. Os resultados atestam que, pós-Rana Plaza, (I) o modelo fast fashion avançou em acordos de segurança, contudo, seus consumidores apresentam controvérsias; e (II) o modelo slow fashion apoiou o surgimento de iniciativas do terceiro setor e deu subsídio para comportamentos pró-sustentabilidade.

O artigo apresenta os principais resultados da pesquisa desenvolvida junto ao Mestrado Profissional em Design, descreve a investigação dos processos produtivos utilizados no contexto das indústrias têxteis, especificamente em seus setores primário e secundário. O objetivo geral do projeto de pesquisa foi analisar processos produtivos dos tecidos de malharia circular aplicados na indústria brasileira, do cultivo do algodão ao beneficiamento dos produtos, levantando impactos ambientais, com vistas à comparação dos procedimentos e classificação dos tecidos. Os principais resultados da pesquisa referem-se aos índices ecológicos da classificação dos tecidos de algodão quanto ao impacto ambiental, apresentados por meio de tabela.  What do you want to do ?New mailCopy What do you want to do ?New mailCopy What do you want to do ?New mailCopy What do you want to do ?New mailCopy What do you want to do ?New mailCopy What do you want to do ?New mailCopy What do you want to do ?New mailCopy

Air and water vapour permeability, thickness and thermal resistance of fabrics are some of the most important parameters to determine clothing comfort. However, these parameters tend to change after laundering in daily use. In this study, changes in the thermal comfort properties of cellulosic fabrics used in underwear and sock production, due to repeated laundering, were investigated. For this purpose, 100% cotton, viscose, Viloft, Modal, Promodal and Tencel fabrics, in single jersey construction, were selected and the thickness, air permeability, water vapour permeability and thermal resistance of the fabrics were measured initially and after 5, 10 and 15 repeated launderings. The obtained data were analysed by statistical techniques. According to the results, increasing the number of laundering cycles decreases air permeability and increases thickness and thermal resistance, in general. However, relative water vapour permeability decreases up to a number of laundering cycles and increases from this point on, upon further increasing the number of laundering cycles. The material type was found to be more influential than thickness on the thermal resistance values in this study. In conclusion, repeated laundering and material type significantly affect the comfort properties of fabrics.

One of the essential rights of the child is to obtain a high quality clothes that meets his needs and requirements according to his growth stage characteristics. Clothes play an important and effective role in the child's life as it gain confidence and improve his abilities. Scientists emphasize the importance of infancy stage (from birth: two years) in individual life; the experiences that pass through this stage affect his personality growth in the future, as well as it has a rapid and sequential growth in all aspects with an exceeding rate than the following growth stages; Therefore, an appropriate opportunity for growth in that period has the greatest importance, which should provide comfort and safety and provide the opportunity for growth at that crucial time.Low quality in designing and implementing some ready-made infants' garments has been observed.  A survey had been made to investigate this problem, by interviewing a random sample of (38) mothers of infants, and a...

volvem e contribuem também com a compreensão de qual o estágio da sustentabilidade as empresas se encontram. Palavras-chave: Sustentabilidade. Capitalismo natural. Setor coureiro. Inter-organizational networks as promoters of sustainable innovations in the leather industry of Rio Grande do Sul Abstract Two phenomena have been widely acknowledged in the market: the increase of environmental and social pressures on business and the increase of the need for cooperation among companies. One aspect that has contributed to their emergence is the need to integrate sustainability innovations to make businesses more competitive. A sector that needs to focus on sustainability is the leather industry of Rio Grande do Sul, since the automotive industry and the European furniture exert pressure on it. The aim of this paper is to describe the internal and external context that the gaucho leather industry is inserted in order to propose some possible solutions for a more sustainable perspective. Three theoretical approaches were used in this study: inter-organizational networks, innovation, and natural capitalism. The methodological approach used is mainly qualitative; a case study was carried out after interviews at BNZ Couros and Tanac, as well as with a professor from the department of chemical engineering and the responsible for the Laboratory for Research on Leather and Environment at UFRGS. After that, we carried out research on the site of Centro das Indústrias de Curtumes do Brasil e Sistema AliceWeb do Ministério de Desenvolvimento, Indústria e Comércio Exterior in order to gather second data. The first suggestion is to focus on networks, which will contribute an innovative environment. The second one is to lead the innovation through the perspective of Natural Capitalism, since it indicates which innovations should be developed and helps us understand the stage in which companies are.

The apparel brands and retailers are taking more responsibilities for their environmental impacts for sustainable fashion. According to the rise in demand, the more fashion schools, colleges and universities are reacting to these changes and educate students to have more awareness of sustainability to take forward into changing the industry. Zero waste is one of the sustainable approaches to facilitate material efficiency by minimising fabric waste, and it can be applied to the design stage, the pattern cutting, fabric cutting, and production stages. This study is focused on evaluating the zero waste design module in BA Fashion Design course in UK high education. The teaching approach, materials, and structure of the designed module were analysed using action research as well as questionnaire conducted by students. The assignments of students based on the practice-based learning were evaluated, and reflections from students were also analysed. The results were interpreted as a guide...

Studiul responsabilității sociale a întreprinderilor în industria textilă și de îmbrăcăminte În industria textilă și de îmbrăcăminte din țările în curs de dezvoltare, există o confuzie asupra definirii responsabilității sociale a întreprinderilor (RSI) și, în consecință, acest concept vag se reflectă în cercetarea fenomenului și a practicilor RSI. Întreprinderile mici și mijlocii și companiile mari doresc să încorporeze conceptul de responsabilitate socială a întreprinderilor (RSI) în cadrul strategiilor, politicilor și practicilor lor de afaceri, în special în era globalizării și a comerțului internațional. Acest studiu își propune să realizeze o introducere în domeniul responsabilității sociale a întreprinderilor (RSI), aplicat în industria textilă și de îmbrăcăminte. Prima parte a acestui studiu prezintă un rezumat al diferitelor definiții, teorii despre RSI și metode care au fost publicate de către specialiștii în domeniul RSI, atât în revistele din mediul academic, cât și în cele ale practicienilor. Întrucât campaniile mari integrează principiile RSI în politicile și practicile lor de afaceri, angajații trebuie să aplice valorile corporatiste adoptate. În partea a doua a acestui studiu, autorii au analizat diferitele cadre RSI aplicabile în practica din industria textilă și de îmbrăcăminte. Analiza a arătat că domeniul RSI este în continuă dezvoltare, iar autorii oferă un set de recomandări cu privire la modul în care domeniul RSI poate fi aplicat în continuare în industria textilă și de îmbrăcăminte. În cele din urmă, ultima parte a acestui studiu subliniază unele aspecte metodologice care derivă din perspectivele teoretice adoptate în materie de RSI. De asemenea, se prezintă o analiză comparativă a diferitelor abordări de cercetare (cantitativă/calitativă, inductivă/deductivă, exploratorie/descriptivă /explicativă). Cuvinte-cheie: responsabilitate socială a întreprinderilor (RSI), perspective teoretice, industria textilă/de îmbrăcăminte, abordări de cercetare Studying the corporate social responsibility in apparel and textile industry In the apparel and textile industry in developing countries, there is a confusion over the definition of CSR, and, consequently, this conceptual vagueness reflects itself on the research of the phenomenon and the practices of CSR. Small and medium enterprises and large companies are eager to incorporate the concept of corporate social responsibility (CSR) within their business strategies, policies and practices, especially in the era of globalization and international trade. This literature review articles aims to bring a better introduction to the field of corporate social responsibility (CSR) as studied by apparel/textile industry scholars. The first part of this review summarizes the different definitions, theories about CSR, and methods that have been used by management scholars working in the CSR field in both academic and practitioner management journals. As large corporations integrate the principles of CSR into their business policies and practices, company employees are expected to follow actions regarding the adopted corporate values. The authors in the second part of this review discuss different CSR frameworks applicable to the apparel/textile industry practice. The analysis shows that the CSR field is still evolving and the authors provide a set of recommendations on how to advance the CSR field to be applicable to the apparel/textile industry. Finally, the last part of this review highlights some methodological issues, originating from the adopted theoretical perspectives on CSR. A comparative review of different research approaches (quantitative/qualitative, inductive/deductive, explorative/ descriptive/explanatory) is also given.

in Wellington. She's interested in facilitating access to information through design, whatever format or form that takes. With a former-life degree in Geography, she has a strong interest in the environment and conservation. She believes in making things as simple as they can be, but not simpler. Karl Kane's research focuses on service, experience and social design, civic participation and brand communication. His research interests primarily sit within the area of 21st Century Citizenship. He teaches in the visual communication degree and consults/mentors within Massey University's Open Lab, with a focus on service, experience and social design. As an Industrial Design lecturer and product designer, Emma Fox Derwin's practice concentrates on furniture design targeting new cross-disciplinary approaches to flat-pack furniture design through new materials and construction methods. Her work pushes the boundaries of furniture design through functional designs that both challenge the way we relate to and use the objects in our daily lives.

This paper presents a study on the comfort properties of socks manufactured by different types of yarns like cotton, viscose, bamboo, wool, acrylic and their blends. The air permeability, thermal conductivity, thermal resistance of plain socks and plated socks with polyester and lycra threads were investigated. It was found that the higher air permeability was shown in case of single yarn socks, lower air permeability for plated socks with polyester yarn and the lowest for plated with lycra threads. Polyester or lycra threads change the structure of plated knit socks as the constructions of such socks were thicker and tighter. It was determined that a higher thermal conductivity coefficient was occurred for single yarns, lower-for plated with polyester thread, lowest for plated with lycra thread. It was also determined that a higher thermal resistance was shown for plated socks with lycra thread, lower for plated with polyester and the lowest for single yarn socks.

The fashion industry is currently undergoing a radical change towards an overall sustainable paradigm shift. This paper investigates how the fashion collection, as a particular design framework, might be reconfigured as a strategic driver for garment longevity furthering sustainable fashion design. The study builds on a case study of a company offering a subscription service for baby clothing, exploring in detail whether and how the collection is used as a strategic design tool. In the analysis and discussion, feedback from users, manufacturers and the garments themselves plays a crucial role in the development of the collection. To some degree this differs from the development of a linear fashion collection. The paper concludes by suggesting a framework for using the collection as a strategic design tool designing garments for a product service system while adopting a circular economy thinking.

This paper aims to debate forms of action for systemic changes within textile and clothing industries considering the resilience reference, particularly regarding development at these industries and their productive structures. For this purpose, we selected Hemp fiber as a case study, to discuss its potential for evolutionary resilience in relation to the textile and clothing fashion systems.

In the last decade, sustainability has become an imperative for strategic management of companies and their business models. Through the necessity of adapting to green energy and environmentally friendly processes, products and services, companies have started to reorganize their business model canvases according to the sustainability concept, that imposes a redesign from before the production process until the end of the lifecycle of the product or service. The objective of the present article is to contribute to the classical theoretical business model canvas of Osterwalder and Pigneur with sustainable elements, which could serve as a basis for scientific literature, but also for practical implementation in the private business field. The paper contributes through the additions to the existing elements of the business model canvas with elements necessary to ensure a ''clean'' production and consumption process from producer to consumer. The relevance of the paper lies in the fact that the business model elements need to be improved continuously with the increased dynamics of the economy and the need to ensure a sustainable future for the next generations, which is still an emerging topic practically and theoretically.

volvem e contribuem também com a compreensão de qual o estágio da sustentabilidade as empresas se encontram. Palavras-chave: Sustentabilidade. Capitalismo natural. Setor coureiro. Inter-organizational networks as promoters of sustainable innovations in the leather industry of Rio Grande do Sul Abstract Two phenomena have been widely acknowledged in the market: the increase of environmental and social pressures on business and the increase of the need for cooperation among companies. One aspect that has contributed to their emergence is the need to integrate sustainability innovations to make businesses more competitive. A sector that needs to focus on sustainability is the leather industry of Rio Grande do Sul, since the automotive industry and the European furniture exert pressure on it. The aim of this paper is to describe the internal and external context that the gaucho leather industry is inserted in order to propose some possible solutions for a more sustainable perspective. Three theoretical approaches were used in this study: inter-organizational networks, innovation, and natural capitalism. The methodological approach used is mainly qualitative; a case study was carried out after interviews at BNZ Couros and Tanac, as well as with a professor from the department of chemical engineering and the responsible for the Laboratory for Research on Leather and Environment at UFRGS. After that, we carried out research on the site of Centro das Indústrias de Curtumes do Brasil e Sistema AliceWeb do Ministério de Desenvolvimento, Indústria e Comércio Exterior in order to gather second data. The first suggestion is to focus on networks, which will contribute an innovative environment. The second one is to lead the innovation through the perspective of Natural Capitalism, since it indicates which innovations should be developed and helps us understand the stage in which companies are.

Sanayileşme, nüfus artışı, teknolojik gelişmeler, küreselleşme ve bazı felsefi yaklaşımlar gibi dünya tarihindeki önemli kırılmalar sebebiyle üretim ve tüketim artmış bunun sonucunda ise doğa, çevre, hayvanlar ve bitkiler, yok olmasında sakınca görülmeyen sınırsız ve değersiz metalar haline gelmişlerdir. Son gelinen noktada sadece çevre, doğa değil insan sağlığı ve insani/ toplumsal kıymetler de hoyratça kullanılır bir hal almıştır. Hızlı tüketim kültürü ise doğanın sınırlı kaynakları ve ekosistemi üzerinde olumsuz etkilere sahiptir. Mevcut dünya düzeni sebebiyle kaynaklar hızla tükenmekte, doğa yok olmakta, insan sağlığı giderek bozulmakta bunun sonucunda birçok ekonomik, ekolojik ve sosyal problem oluşmaktadır. Bunların yanında; üretimlerde bol miktarda su ve kimyasal madde kullanılması, kaynakların sınırsızmış gibi tüketilip atıkların doğaya terk edilmesi; su, hava, toprak gibi hayati kaynaklara zarar vermekte ve dünyanın sürdürülebilirliğine olumsuz etki etmektedir. Kalkınmanın ekonomik gelişimler ve dolayısıyla insan yaşamına kolaylıklar sağlıyor olması onun ortaya çıkardığı küresel boyuttaki sorunları göz ardı etmemize yeter sebep değildir. İnsanın en önemli ihtiyaçları olan giysi, aksesuar ve ev tekstili gibi ürünlerin üretimini sağlayan Tekstil ve Moda sektörü de, insan ve çevre sağlığı gözetip sürdürülebilir kalkınmayı da dikkate alarak faaliyetlerine devam etmelidir. Sektörde, hem üretim esnasında kullanılan malzemeler ve kimyasal maddeler hem de doğal kaynakların kullanımı mümkün olduğunca asgari düzeyde olmalıdır. Sürdürülebilir Moda, Eko Moda, Yeşil Hareketler, Yavaş Moda, Yavaş Tasarım gibi yaklaşımlar dünyanın yaşamış olduğu bu problemlere bir tepki olarak ortaya çıkmıştır. Sürdürülebilirlik, Tekstil ve Moda Sektörü için de oldukça önemli bir konumdadır. Tekstil ürünlerinin doğal lifler ve maddelerle üretilmesi, kullanım ömrünün daha uzun olması ve geri dönüşümünün sağlanabilmesi sürdürülebilirlik açısından önemlidir. Bu araştırmada Tekstil ve Moda sektöründe sürdürülebilirlik; ekolojik açıdan incelenmiştir. Araştırmada; üretici, tüketici ve araştırmacılarda farkındalık uyandırmak, sürdürülebilir modaya dikkat çekmek ve sürdürülebilir kalkınmaya katkı sağlamak amaçlanmıştır.