Donegal County Donegal is a county in Ireland

Contents Articles Donegal 1 County Donegal 5 Tyrconnell 18 O'Donnell dynasty 21 Cenél Conaill 26 River Eske 32 Donegal Bay 33 Bluestack Mountains 35 Saint Patrick 36 Niall of the Nine Hostages 49 Donegal Castle 55 Franciscan 57 Annals of the Four Masters 74 Hugh Roe O'Donnell 77 Flight of the Earls 81 Plantation of Ulster 85 Parliament of Ireland 93 Great Famine (Ireland) 101 Donegal Borough (Parliament of Ireland constituency) 127 Rossnowlagh 129 Letterkenny 133 Magee of Donegal 149 Loom 149 Donegal Carpets 156 Áras an Uachtaráin 157 University of Notre Dame 160 Bus Éireann 185 Derry 190 Iarnród Éireann 216 Mac Diarmada railway station 221 Dublin Connolly railway station 222 Enniskillen 230 Donegal railway station 240 Donegal Railway Centre 241 Gaelic football 243 Gaelic Athletic Association 253 Hurling 265 Association football 276 Donegal Democrat 289 Donegal Post 292 Donegal Times 294 Ocean FM (Ireland) 295 Larrikin Love 296 Colonel Robertson's Fund 297 John White (Conservative MP) 299 Alexander Porter 300 Abbey Vocational School 302 List of abbeys and priories in Ireland 304 List of populated places in the Republic of Ireland 342 Ballyshannon 347 Buncrana 354 Bundoran 364 Annagry 372 Ardara 375 Ballintra 378 Ballybofey 381 Ballyliffin 385 Bridgend, County Donegal 387 Bruckless 389 Burtonport 391 Carndonagh 393 Carrigans 396 Carrigart 397 Castlefin 399 Churchill, County Donegal 402 Cloghan, County Donegal 403 Clonmany 404 Convoy, County Donegal 407 Creeslough 410 Crolly 413 Doochary 415 Dunfanaghy 417 Dungloe 420 Dunkineely 424 Fahan 427 Falcarragh 429 Fintown 432 Frosses 434 Glen, County Donegal 435 Glencolmcille 436 Glenties 439 Greencastle, County Donegal 444 Gweedore 447 Inver 459 Kerrykeel 460 Kilcar 462 Killea, County Donegal 465 Killybegs 467 Killygordon 471 Laghy 474 Lettermacaward 476 Lifford 478 Loch an Iúir 484 Malin, County Donegal 486 Manorcunningham 488 Milford, County Donegal 491 Mountcharles 493 Moville 495 Muff, County Donegal 498 Narin, County Donegal 500 Newtown Cunningham 502 Pettigo 505 Portnablagh 511 Ramelton 513 Quigley's Point 515 Raphoe 517 Rathmullan 522 St Johnston 524 Stranorlar 526 Teelin 529 Banagh 530 Boylagh 531 Kilmacrenan 533 Slieve League 536 Downings 538 Dolmen 540 Acadamh na hOllscolaíochta Gaeilge 547 Mount Errigal 548 Cloughaneely 550 Inishowen 551 References Article Sources and Contributors 556 Image Sources, Licenses and Contributors 567 Article Licenses License 581 Donegal 1 Donegal Donegal Dún na nGall — Town — Donegal Town Coat of arms Donegal Location in Ireland Coordinates: 54°39′00″N 8°07′01″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Dáil Éireann Donegal South–West EU Parliament North–West Elevation 32 m (unknown operator: u'strong' ft) [1] Population (2006) • Urban 2339 Irish Grid Reference G924789 [2] Donegal 2 Dialing code +353 74 Website [www.donegaltown.ie www.donegaltown.ie] Donegal or Donegal Town ( /ˈdʌnɪɡɔːl/ or /ˌdʌnɪˈɡɔːl/; Irish: Dún na nGall)[3] is a town in County Donegal, Ireland. Its name, which was historically written in English as Dunnagall or Dunagall, translates from Irish as "stronghold of the foreigners" (i.e. the Vikings). Donegal gave its name to County Donegal, although Lifford is now the county town. Until the early 1600s, Donegal was the 'capital' of Tír Chonaill, a gaelic kingdom controlled by the O'Donnell Clan of the Cenél Conaill. Donegal sits at the mouth of the River Eske and Donegal Bay, which is overshadowed by the Bluestack Mountains ('the Croaghs'). The town is bypassed by the N15 and N56 roads. The centre of the town, known as "The Diamond", is a hub for music, poetic and cultural gatherings in the area. History There is archaeological evidence for settlements around the town dating back to prehistoric times including the remains of round forts and other defensive earth works. It is generally accepted by historians that St. Patrick was captured by raiders from the Clans governed by Niall of the Nine Hostages and that this region is that to which St. Patrick returned; being familiar with the people, language, customs and lands. The first Clan to convert to Christianity as the result of St Patrick's efforts was the Clan Connaill (also known at one time as Clan Dalaigh: in English, this is pronounced Daley and it translates as "one in a leadership role"). Connaill was a son of Niall of the Nine Hostages. As a result on their acceptance of Christianity, St Patrick bless the clan members and the sign of the Cross appeared on the chieftains shield and this became not only the coat of arms for the clan but also for County Donegal (up until the early 1970s). Approaching Donegal Town by sea. Donegal Town itself is famous for being the former center of government of the dynasty of O'Donnell of Tyrconnell, who played a pivotal role in Irish history, and whose original homeland lay further to the north in the area of Kilmacrenan. From the 15th to the 17th century, they were an important part of the opposition to the colonisation of Ireland by England. The town itself contains Donegal castle, on the banks of the River Eske and the remains of a Franciscan abbey which dates back to the 15th century on the Southern shore of the Bay. The Annals of the Four Masters written in the abbey in the early 17th century. The story of Aodh Rua Ó Domhnaill (Red Hugh O'Donnell), Lord of Tyrconnell, was the inspiration behind many books and films, not least, Disney's The Fighting Prince of Donegal [4] (1966). After the Flight of the Earls in 1607 the castle and its lands were given to an English captain, Basil Brooke, as part of the Plantation of Ulster. Brooke carried out major reconstruction work and added a wing to the castle in the Jacobean style. The current plan of the town was also laid out including an attractive town square or Diamond. From the late 17th until the early 20th centuries, Donegal Town formed part of the vast estates of the Gore family (from 1762 Earls of Arran) and it while in their ownership that the town took on its present appearance. Donegal Borough returned two members to the Parliament of Ireland until the Act of Union 1800. Evidence of the Irish Famine still exists including a workhouse, whose buildings are now part of the local hospital, and many famine graves. Donegal 3 Industry and tourism There are many sandy beaches in the area of Donegal, such as Murvagh beach, and some boasting good surfing conditions, such as Rossnowlagh. Donegal is also used as a base for hill-walking in the nearby Bluestack Mountains. Despite the town's many hotels catering for visitors, it suffers from a lack of social amenities for its local population. Many have to travel to nearby towns such as Letterkenny for facilities like public swimming pools, cinemas and large shopping centres.[5] Part of the Diamond in Donegal Traditionally the largest employer in the town has been Magee of Donegal, who are manufacturers of tweed garments, some of which could, in the past, be seen being woven by hand on small looms in the company's department store. Like most clothing manufacturers in Ireland, the size of the workforce has been in decline for many years. Donegal also has a long tradition of weaving carpets. Donegal Carpets have been made in Killybegs for over one hundred years and have been found in Áras an Uachtaráin, the University of Notre Dame and the White House. Waterloo Place. Transport The Bus Éireann service number 64 Derry/Galway route which makes several other stops including Letterkenny and Sligo (which allows for rail connections by Iarnród Éireann, Official site - Timetables, bookings and operations [6] from Sligo railway station to Dublin Connolly) and the number 30 Donegal/Dublin route which makes stops at other key towns such as Enniskillen (which provides connections to Belfast via Ulsterbus).[7] Two private companies operate the other routes: 'McGeehan Bus' operates a regular service, from West Donegal to Dublin Airport and Busaras in Dublin, which passes through the town;[8] while Feda O'Donnell Coaches (also known as Bus Feda) operates a regular Glenties/Galway service that stops in Donegal.[9] Donegal railway station opened on 16 September 1889 and finally closed on 1 January 1960.[10] The site of the old station is now used by CIÉ as a bus depot while the actual building is the home of the Donegal Railway Heritage Centre.[11] Sport Donegal town is home to many amateur sports clubs. The most popular sport in the area is Gaelic football and the local Gaelic Athletic Association club is The Four Masters.[12] The club also has been developing hurling. Other popular sports include soccer, rugby union, basketball and athletics. Donegal Town was host to the final stage of the World Rally Championship on Feb 1st 2009 and was viewed by 68 million people worldwide. Donegal town centre at night. Donegal 4 Media The town is home to the regional newspapers Donegal Democrat and Donegal Post and the local Donegal Times[13] newspaper.The Northwest Express regional newspaper is also distributed throughout the town and surrounding county. Ocean FM, an independent regional radio station, has one of its three studios in the town, which broadcasts to most of south County Donegal. Donegal Town was host to the final stage of the World Rally Championship on Feb 1st 2009 and viewed by 68 million people worldwide. Donegal is mentioned in the song 'It's Long Way Home To Donegal' by the indie band Larrikin Love. Notable people from Donegal • Colonel Robertson, soldier and philanthropist • John White, Conservative MP in the Canadian House of Commons • Alexander Porter, United States Senator The town during Christmas 2008. References [1] "Table 7 - Persons in each town of 1,500 population and over, ..." (http:/ / www. cso. ie/ census/ documents/ census2006_Table_7_and_12. pdf) (PDF). Census 2006, Volume 1 - Population Classified by Area. Central Statistics Office. 2007-04-26. p. 119. . Retrieved 2008-02-13. [2] http:/ / getamap. ordnancesurvey. co. uk/ getamap/ frames. htm?mapAction=gaz& gazName=g& gazString=G924789 [3] Welcome to the Official Donegal Town Website for Hotels and Businesses (http:/ / www. donegaltown. ie/ ) [4] http:/ / www. imdb. com/ title/ tt0060408/ [5] http:/ / www. letterkennyhomes. com/ letterkenny/ [6] http:/ / www. irishrail. ie [7] Bue Éireann homepage (http:/ / www. buseireann. ie) [8] McGeehan Bus homepage (http:/ / www. mgbus. com) [9] Bus Feda homepage (http:/ / www. fedaodonnell. com) [10] "Donegal station" (http:/ / www. railscot. co. uk/ Ireland/ Irish_railways. pdf) (PDF). Railscot - Irish Railways. . Retrieved 2007-09-23. [11] County Donegal Railway Restoration Ltd. homepage (http:/ / www. cdrrl. com/ ) [12] Four Master's GAA Club (http:/ / www. fourmastersgaa. com) [13] The Donegal Times On-line (http:/ / www. donegaltimes. com) Further reading • Aldwell, B. 2003. A survey of local resident butterflies in County Donegal. Bull. Ir. biogeog. Soc. No. 27. 202–226. External links • Official town website (http://www.donegaltown.ie/) • Donegal Public Art (http://donegalpublicart.ie/) County Donegal 5 County Donegal County Donegal Contae Dhún na nGall / Contae Thír Chonaill Coontie Dunnygal / Coontie Dinnygal Coat of arms Motto: Mutuam habeatis caritatem (Latin) '(Maintain among you) Mutual Love (or Charity)' Location in Ireland Coordinates: 54°55′01″N 8°00′00″W Country Ireland Province Ulster Dáil Éireann Donegal North–East, Donegal South–West County seat Lifford Government • Type County Council Area • Total 4841 km2 (unknown operator: u'strong' sq mi) Area rank (4th) [1] Population (2011) 161137 • Rank (10th) Code DL County Donegal 6 Website www.donegal.ie [3][4] Coontie Dunnygal [2] [5] and Coontie Dinnygal are Ulster Scots spellings. County Donegal ( /ˈdʌnɪɡɔːl/ or /ˌdʌnɪˈɡɔːl/; Irish: Contae Dhún na nGall or Contae Thír Chonaill) is a county in Ireland. It is part of the Border Region and is also located in the province of Ulster. It is named after the town of Donegal. Donegal County Council is the local authority for the county. The population of the county is 161,137 according to the 2011 census. Geography and political subdivisions In terms of size and area, it is the largest county in Ulster and the fourth largest county in all of Ireland. Uniquely, County Donegal shares a border with only one other county in the Republic of Ireland – County Leitrim. The greater part of its land border is shared with three counties of Northern Ireland: County Londonderry, County Tyrone and County Fermanagh. This geographic 'isolation' from the rest of the Republic has led to Donegal people maintaining a distinct cultural identity[6] and has been used to market the county with the slogan Up here it's different.[7] While Lifford is the County Town, Letterkenny is by far the largest town in the county with a population of 19,588. Letterkenny and the nearby city of Derry form the main economic axis of the north-west of Ireland.[8] Baronies There are eight historic baronies in the county: • Banagh (Báinigh) • Boylagh (Baollaigh) • Inishowen East (Inis Eoghain Thoir) • Inishowen West (Inis Eoghain Thiar) • Kilmacrennan (Cill Mhic Néanáin) • Raphoe North (Ráth Bhoth Thuaidh) The Poison Glen, in North West Donegal. • Raphoe South (Ráth Bhoth Theas) • Tirhugh (Tír Aodha) Informal districts The county may be informally divided into a number of traditional districts. There are two Gaeltacht districts in the west: The Rosses (Irish: Na Rosa), centred on the town of Dungloe (Irish: An Clochán Liath), and Gweedore (Irish: Gaoth Dobhair). Another Gaeltacht district is located in the north-west: Cloughaneely (Irish: Cloich Chionnaola), centred on the town of Falcarragh (Irish: An Fál Carrach). The most northerly part of the island of Ireland is the location for three peninsulae of outstanding natural beauty: Inishowen, Fanad and Rosguill. The main population centre of Inishowen, one of Ireland's largest peninsulae, is Buncrana. In the east of the county lies the Finn Valley (centred on Ballybofey). The Laggan district (not to be confused with the more famous Lagan Valley in the south of County Antrim) is centred on the town of Raphoe. County Donegal 7 Demographics Historical population Year Pop. 1659 12001 ±% — 1821 120559 +904.6% 1831 141845 1841 296448 +109.0% 1851 255158 −13.9% 1861 237395 −7.0% 1871 218334 −8.0% 1881 206035 −5.6% 1891 185635 −9.9% 1901 173722 −6.4% 1911 168537 −3.0% 1926 152508 −9.5% 1936 142310 −6.7% 1946 136317 −4.2% 1951 131530 −3.5% 1956 122059 −7.2% 1961 113842 −6.7% 1966 108549 −4.6% 1971 108344 −0.2% 1979 121941 +12.5% 1981 125112 +2.6% 1986 129664 +3.6% 1991 128117 −1.2% 1996 129994 +1.5% 2002 137575 +5.8% 2006 147264 +7.0% 2011 161137 +9.4% +17.7% [9][10][11][12][13][14] According to the 1841 Census, County Donegal had a population of 296,000 people. As a result of famine and emigration, the population had reduced by 41,000 by 1851 and further reduced by 18,000 by 1861. By the time of the 1951 Census the population was only 44% of what it had been in 1841.[15] The 2006 Census, undertaken by the State's Central Statistics Office, had County Donegal's population standing at 147,264. According to the 2011 Census, the county's population had grown to 161,137. County Donegal 8 Physical geography Physically, the county is by far the most rugged and mountainous in Ulster. The county consists chiefly of low mountains, with a deeply indented coastline forming natural loughs, of which both Lough Swilly and Lough Foyle are the most notable. The famous mountains (often known as 'the Hills of Donegal') consist of two major ranges, the Derryveagh Mountains in the north and the Bluestack Mountains in the south, with Mount Errigal at 749 metres (unknown operator: u'strong' ft) the highest peak. The Slieve League cliffs are the sixth-highest sea cliffs in Europe, while Donegal's Malin Head is the most northerly point on the island of Ireland. The climate is temperate and dominated by the Gulf Stream, with warm, damp summers and mild wet winters. Two permanently inhabited islands, Arranmore and Tory Island, lie off the coast, along with a large number of islands with only transient inhabitants. Ireland's second longest river, the Erne, enters Donegal Bay near the town of Ballyshannon. The River Erne, along with other Donegal waterways, has been dammed to produce hydroelectric power. The River Foyle separates part of County Donegal from parts of both counties Londonderry and Tyrone. Tra More Beach, Downings, the longest in Donegal, at 11 km (7 Mi.) long. Slieve League cliffs, the second tallest in Ireland. Botany A survey of the macroscopic marine algae of County Donegal was published in 2003.[16] The survey was compiled using the algal records held in the herbaria of the following institutions: the Ulster Museum in Stranmillis, Belfast; Trinity College, Dublin; University College, Galway; and the Natural History Museum in South Kensington, London. Glengesh Pass, near Ardara. County Donegal 9 Map of Donegal. History At various times in its history, it has been known as County Tirconaill, County Tirconnell or County Tyrconnell (Irish: Contae Thír Chonaill). The former was used as its official name during 1922–1927.[18] This is in reference to both the old túath of Tír Chonaill and the earldom that succeeded it. County Donegal is famous for being the home of the once mighty Clann Dálaigh, whose most famous branch were the Clann Ó Domhnaill, better known in English as the O'Donnell Clan. Until around 1600, the O'Donnells were one of Ireland's richest and most powerful Gaelic (native Irish) Donegal Castle, former seat of the O'Donnell clan. ruling-families. Within the Province of Ulster only the Clann Uí Néill (known in English as the O'Neill Clan) of modern County Tyrone were more powerful. The O'Donnells were Ulster's second most powerful clan or ruling-family from the early 13th-century through to the start of the 17th-century. For several centuries the O'Donnells ruled Tír Chonaill, a Gaelic kingdom in West Ulster that covered almost all of modern County Donegal. The head of the O'Donnell family had the titles An Ó Domhnaill (meaning The O'Donnell in English) and Rí Thír Chonaill (meaning King of Tír Chonaill in English). Based at Donegal Castle in Dún na nGall (modern [17] Kilclooney dolmen, which is over 4,000 years old. Donegal Town), the O'Donnell Kings of Tír Chonaill were traditionally inaugurated at Doon Rock near Kilmacrenan. O'Donnell royal or chiefly power was finally ended in what was then the newly created County Donegal in September 1607, following the Flight of the Earls from near Rathmullan. The modern County Arms of Donegal (dating from the early 1970s) was influenced by the design of the old O'Donnell royal arms. The County Arms is the official coat of arms of both County Donegal and Donegal County Council. The modern County Donegal was shired[19] by order of the English Crown in 1585. The English authorities at Dublin Castle formed the new county by amalgamating the old Kingdom of Tír Chonaill with the old Lordship of Inishowen. However, the English authorities were unable to establish control over Tír Chonaill and Inishowen until after the Battle of Kinsale in 1602. Full control over the new County Donegal was only achieved after the Flight of County Donegal 10 the Earls in September 1607. The county was one of those 'planted' during the Plantation of Ulster from around 1610 onwards. County Donegal was one of the worst affected parts of Ulster during the Great Famine of the late 1840s in Ireland. Vast swathes of the county were devastated by this catastrophe, many areas becoming permanently depopulated. Vast numbers of County Donegal's people emigrated at this time, chiefly through the Port of Derry. Huge numbers of the county's people who emigrated were to settle in Glasgow in southern Scotland. The Partition of Ireland in the early 1920s was to have a massive direct impact on County Donegal. Partition cut the county off, economically and administratively, from Derry, which had acted for centuries as the county's main port, transport hub and financial centre. Derry, together with West Tyrone, was henceforward in a new, different jurisdiction officially called Northern Ireland. Partition also meant that County Donegal was now almost entirely cut off from the rest of the jurisdiction it now found itself in, the new dominion called the Irish Free State. This dominion became fully independent in April 1949 when it left the Commonwealth and became the Republic of Ireland. Only a few miles of the county is physically connected by land to the rest of the Republic. The existence of this border, cutting Donegal off from her natural hinterlands in Derry City and West Tyrone, has greatly exacerbated the economic difficulties of the county since partition. The county's economy is particularly susceptible, just like that of Derry City, to the currency fluctuations of the Euro against Sterling. Added to all this, in the late 20th-century, County Donegal was, by the standards of the rest of the Republic of Ireland, to be adversely affected by The Troubles in Northern Ireland. The county was to suffer several bombings and at least two assassinations. In June 1987, Constable Samuel McClean, a Donegal man who was a serving member of the R.U.C., was shot dead by the I.R.A. at his family home near Drumkeen. In May 1991, the prominent Sinn Féin politician Councillor Eddie Fullerton was assassinated by the U.D.A. at his home in Buncrana. This added further to the economic and social difficulties of the county. However, the Good Friday Agreement (G.F.A.) of April 1998 has been of great benefit to the county. It has been labelled the 'forgotten county' by its own politicians, owing to the increasing regularity with which it is ignored by the Irish Government, even in times of crisis.[20][21] Irish language Much of the county is seen as being a bastion of Gaelic culture and the Irish language, the county holding the second-largest Gaeltacht area in the country with a population of 24,744[22] 16% of the county's population lives in the Gaeltacht. There are about 25,000 Irish speakers in County Donegal. According to the 2011 Census, 17,132 say they can speak Irish in the County Donegal Gaeltacht. There are 1,005 attending the 5 Gaelscoileanna and 2 Gaelcholáistí in the rest of the county. According to the 2006 Census, there are also 7,218 people who identify as being daily Irish speakers outside the Gaeltacht in the rest of the county. Road signs in Irish in the Gaoth Dobhair Gaeltacht. Gweedore is the largest Irish-speaking parish with over 4,000 inhabitants. All schools in the region use Irish as the language of instruction. One of the N.U.I.G.'s constituent colleges, Acadamh na hOllscolaíochta Gaeilge, is based in Gweedore. The version of the Irish language spoken in County Donegal is Ulster Irish. County Donegal 11 Government and Politics Donegal County Council (which has officially been in existence since 1899) has responsibility for local administration, and is headquartered at the County House in Lifford. The County Council runs alongside Town Councils in Letterkenny, Bundoran, Ballyshannon and Buncrana. Both the County Council and Town Councils have elections every five years (alongside local elections nationally, and elections to the European Parliament), the last of which took place on 5 June 2009. Twenty nine councillors are elected using the system of Proportional representation-Singe Transferable Vote (STV), across five electoral areas (Inishowen – 7 seats, Letterkenny – 7 seats, Donegal – 5 seats, Stranorlar – 5 seats, and Glenties – 5 seats. For General elections, the county is divided into two constituencies, Donegal South–West and Donegal North–East, with both having three representatives in Dáil Éireann. For elections to the European Parliament, the county is part of the North–West constituency (formerly Connacht–Ulster). Access An extensive rail network used to exist throughout the county and was mainly operated by the County Donegal Railways Joint Committee and the Londonderry and Lough Swilly Railway Company (known as the L. & L.S.R. or the Lough Swilly Company for short). The Great Northern Railway (Ireland) L.t.d. (the G.N.R.) also ran a line from Strabane through The Laggan, a district in the east of the county, along the River Foyle into Derry. However, the railway network within County Donegal was completely closed by 1960. Today, the closest railway station to the county is Waterside Station in the City of Derry, which is operated by Northern Ireland Railways (N.I.R.). County Donegal is served by both Donegal Airport, located at Carrickfinn in The Rosses in the west of the county, and by City of Derry Airport, located at Eglinton to the east. The nearest main international airport to the county is Belfast International Airport (popularly known as Aldergrove Airport), which is located to the east at Aldergrove, near Antrim Town, in County Antrim, around fifty-seven miles from Derry City and around seventy-five miles from Letterkenny. Culture The variant of the Irish language spoken in Donegal shares many traits with Scottish Gaelic. The Irish spoken in the Donegal Gaeltacht (Irish-speaking area) is of the Ulster dialect, while Inishowen (parts of which only became English-speaking in the early 20th century) used the East Ulster dialect. Ulster Scots is often spoken in both the Finn Valley and The Laggan district of East Donegal. Donegal Irish has a strong influence on learnt Irish across Ulster. Like other areas on the western seaboard of Ireland, Donegal has a distinctive fiddle tradition which is of world renown. Donegal is also well known for its songs which have, like the The Iron Age fortress Grianán an Aileach. instrumental music, a distinctive sound. Donegal musical artists such as the bands Clannad and Altan and solo artist Enya, all from Gaoth Dobhair, have had international success with traditional or traditional flavoured music. Donegal music has also influenced people not originally from the county including folk and pop singer Paul Brady. Popular music is also common, the county's most acclaimed rock artist being the Ballyshannon-born Rory Gallagher. County Donegal Donegal has a long literary tradition in both Irish and English. The famous Irish navvy-turned-novelist Patrick MacGill, author of many books about the experiences of Irish migrant itinerant labourers in Britain at around the turn of the 19th to 20th century, such as The Rat Pit and the autobiographical Children of the Dead End, is from the Glenties area. There is a literary summer school in Glenties named in his honour. The novelist and socialist politician Peadar O'Donnell hailed from The Rosses in west Donegal. The poet William Allingham was also from Ballyshannon. Modern exponents include the Inishowen playwright and poet Frank McGuinness and the playwright Brian Friel. Many of Friel's plays are set in the fictional Donegal town of Ballybeg. Authors in Donegal have been creating works, like the Annals of the Four Masters, in Gaelic and Latin since the Early Middle Ages. The Irish philosopher John Toland was born in Inishowen in 1670. He was thought of as the original freethinker by George Berkeley. Toland was also instrumental in the spread of freemasonry throughout Continental Europe. In modern Irish Donegal has produced famous, and sometimes controversial, authors such as the brothers Séamus Ó Grianna and Seosamh Mac Grianna from The Rosses and the contemporary (and controversial) Irish-language poet Cathal Ó Searcaigh from Gortahork in Cloughaneely, and where he is known to locals as Gúrú na gCnoc ('the Guru of the Hills'). 12 Mount Errigal sits over Gweedore and Cloughaneely. Kinnagoe Bay, Inishowen. Although approximately 85% of its population is Catholic, County Donegal also has a sizeable Protestant minority. Most Donegal Protestants would trace their ancestors to settlers who arrived during the Plantation of Ulster in the early 17th-century. The Church of Ireland is the largest Protestant denomination but is closely rivalled by a large number of Presbyterians. The areas of Donegal with the highest percentage of Protestants are The Laggan area of East Donegal around Raphoe, the Finn Valley and areas around Ramelton, Milford and Dunfanaghy – where their proportion reaches up to 30–45 percent. There is also a large Protestant population between Donegal Town and Ballyshannon in the south of the county. In absolute terms, Letterkenny has the largest number of Protestants (over 1000) and is the most Presbyterian town (among those settlements with more than 3000 people) in the Republic of Ireland. Some County Donegal Protestants (mainly those concentrated in The Laggan, the Finn Valley, Inishowen and the Donegal Town/Ballintra areas) are members of the Orange Order. The Earagail Arts Festival is held within the county each July. It is considered to be one of the best arts festivals in Ireland, North or South. It is certainly one of the main arts festivals within Ulster. People from Donegal has also contributed to culture elsewhere. Francis Alison was one of the founders of the College of Philadelphia, which would later become the University of Pennsylvania.[23] The Rev. Francis Makemie (originally from Ramelton) founded the Presbyterian Church in America. The Rev. David Steele, from Upper Creevaugh, was a prominent Reformed Presbyterian, or Covenanter, minister who emigrated to the United States in 1824. The Rt Rev. Dr. Charles Inglis, who was the first Church of England Bishop of the Diocese of Nova Scotia, was the third son of Rev. Archibald Inglis, the Rector in Glencolumbkille. County Donegal Places of interest With its sandy beaches, unspoilt boglands and friendly communities, County Donegal is a favoured destination for many travellers, Irish (especially Northern Irish) and foreign alike. One of the county treasures is Glenveagh National Park (formerly part of the Glenveagh Estate), as yet (March 2012) the only official national park anywhere in the Province of Ulster. The park is a 140 km² (about 35,000 acre) nature reserve with spectacular scenery of mountains, raised boglands, lakes and woodlands. At its heart is Glenveagh Castle, a beautiful late Victorian 'folly' that was originally built as a summer residence. The Donegal Gaeltacht (Irish-speaking district) also attracts young people to County Donegal each year during the school summer holidays. The three week long summer Gaeltacht courses give young Irish people from other parts of the country a chance to learn the Irish language and traditional Irish cultural traditions that are still prevalent Glenveagh National Park. in parts of Donegal. The Donegal Gaeltacht has traditionally been a very popular destination each summer for young people from Northern Ireland. Scuba Diving is also very popular with a club being located in Donegal Town. Education Third-level education within the county is provided by Letterkenny Institute of Technology (L.Y.I.T.; popularly known locally as 'the Regional'), established in the 1970s in Letterkenny. In addition, many young people from the county attend third-level institutions elsewhere in Ireland, especially in Derry and also at the University of Ulster at Coleraine (U.U.C.), the University of Ulster at Jordanstown (U.U.J.), The Queen's University of Belfast ('Queen's'), and NUI Galway. Many Donegal students also attend the Limavady Campus of the North West Regional College (popularly known as Limavady Tech) and the Omagh Campus of South West College (popularly known as Omagh Tech or Omagh College). Sport Gaelic football and hurling The Gaelic Athletic Association sport of Gaelic football is very popular in Donegal. Donegal's inter-county Gaoth Dobhair GAA grounds. football team have won the All-Ireland Senior Football Championship title once (in 1992). In 2007 Donegal won only their second national title by winning the National Football League. On 24 April 2011, Donegal added their third national title when they defeated Laois to capture the National Football League Division Two. There are 16 clubs in the Donegal Senior Football Championship, with many others playing at a lower level.[24] Hurling, handball and rounders are also played but are less widespread, as in other parts of northwestern Ireland. The Donegal county senior hurling won the Lory Meagher Cup in 2011. 13 County Donegal 14 Rugby Union There are several rugby teams in the county. These include Ulster Qualifying League Two side Letterkenny RFC, whose ground is named after Dave Gallaher, the captain of the 1905 New Zealand All Blacks touring team, who have since become known as The Originals. He was born in nearby Ramelton. Ulster Qualifying League Three sides include Ballyshannon RFC, Donegal Town RFC and Inishowen RFC. Finn Valley RFC and Tir Chonaill RFC both compete in the Ulster Minor League North. Association football Finn Harps plays in the League of Ireland and won promotion to the Premier Division in 2007 following a 6–3 aggregate win in the playoff final. They are now back alongside their arch-rivals Derry City F.C., with whom they contest Ireland's North-West Derby. There are numerous other clubs in Donegal, but none has achieved the status of Finn Harps. Golf Many people travel to Donegal for the superb golf links—long sandy beaches and extensive dune systems are a feature of the county, and many links courses have been developed. Golf is a very popular sport within the county, including world class golf courses such as Ballyliffin (Glashedy), Ballyliffin (Old),both of whch are located in the Inishowen peninsula. Other courses to note are Murvagh (located outside Donegal Town) and Rosapenna (Sandy Hills) located in Downings (near Carrigart). The Glashedy Links has been ranked 6th in a recent ranking taken by Golf Digest on the best courses in Ireland. The Old links was ranked 28th, Murvagh 36th and Sandy Hills 38th. Mountain Biking Because of some Donegal's hilly and mountain landscape, Mountain Biking has become a significant and growing interest. The Donegal Mountain Bike Club is the newest Mountain Bike club in Donegal, and held its first race on 31 August 2011. The 'Bogman Race' was entered by more than 50 people from different backgrounds of cycling. Due to the overwhelming popularity of their first ever race, the club plans to organize more races in the near future over different seasons, and aims to make it a major tourist attraction throughout Donegal. Bundoran is regarded as one of the best surfing spots in Ireland and Europe. Cricket Cricket is also played in County Donegal. This sport is chiefly confined to The Laggan district and the Finn Valley in the east of the county. The town of Raphoe and the nearby village of St. Johnston, both in The Laggan, are the traditional strongholds of cricket within the county. The game is mainly played and followed by members of County Donegal's Protestant community. County Donegal Other sports Donegal's rugged landscape lends itself to active sports like climbing, hillwalking, surfing and kite-flying. Rock climbing is of very high quality and still under-developed in the county. There is a wealth of good quality climbs in the county, from granite rocks in the south to quartzite and dolerite in the north; from long mountain routes in the Poisoned Glen to boulder challenges of excellent quality in the west and in the Inishowen Peninsula. Surfing on Donegal's Atlantic coast is considered to be as good as any in Ireland. The seaside resort of Bundoran, located in the very south of the county, along with nearby Rossnowlagh, have been 'reborn' as the centre of surfing in County Donegal. Indeed, these areas are renowned as the main surfing centres in Ulster. Panoramic view of Mount Errigal's summit. People • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • Adomnán – or Saint Eunan, Abbot of Iona 679–704. Sir Alexander Armstrong – Arctic explorer. Altan – folk group. Bridie Gallagher – singer. Cathal Ó Searcaigh – Irish-language poet. Bríd Rodgers – A former M.L.A. who was the former S.D.L.P. Deputy Leader and the former Northern Irish Minister for Agriculture and Rural Development. Clannad – folk and pop group. Columba – or Saint Colmcille, one of the three patron saints of Ireland. Bl. Conor O'Devany – Martyred by the English Crown. Oliver Bond (died in 1796) – A possible St. Johnston native who was a Dublin-based member of the United Irishmen. Neil Blaney – Long-serving T.D. for the county and a former Irish Government minister. Founder of Independent Fianna Fáil. Cahir Healy – A journalist who was a very prominent Irish Nationalist politician and who was a long-serving M.P. for County Fermanagh. Charles Macklin – London-based actor, director and writer. Dr. Daniel McGettigan – Archbishop of Armagh. Daniel O'Donnell – singer. Dave Gallaher – first All Blacks Rugby captain. Enya – musician and singer. Frank McGuinness – playwright. Isaac Butt – barrister, M.P. and founder of the Irish Home Rule movement. John Toland – philosopher. Mary Coughlan – Former Tánaiste and T.D.. Dr. Michael Logue – Cardinal-Archbishop of Armagh. Packie Bonner – former goalkeeper. Pat 'the Cope' Gallagher – MEP. Dr. Patrick O'Donnell – Cardinal-Archbishop of Armagh. Peadar O'Donnell – Irish revolutionary and socialist. 15 County Donegal • • • • • • • • • • • • • • Red Hugh O'Donnell – second-last King of Tír Chonaill. Rory Gallagher – guitarist and singer. Séamus Ó Grianna – Irish-language novelist. Shay Given – professional goalkeeper. William Allingham – Victorian poet. Dr. George Otto Simms – Archbishop of Armagh and historian. Willie Hay, M.L.A. – current Speaker of the Northern Ireland Assembly. Sir Gerry Robinson – Businessman and former head of Granada Television. Ray McAnally – Actor and theatrical director, famed for his parts in A Very British Coup, The Mission and My Left Foot. Moya Doherty – producer and co-founder of Riverdance. John Kells Ingram – economist, Irish patriot and poet Seán McGinley – Actor Tommy Gallagher – An S.D.L.P. politician who was formerly an M.L.A. for Fermanagh and South Tyrone. Michelle Doherty – Dublin-based model and radio/television presenter. References [1] "County Donegal" (http:/ / census. cso. ie/ sapmap2011/ Results. aspx?Geog_Type=CTY& Geog_Code=33& CTY=33). Central Statistics Office. 2011. . [2] http:/ / www. donegal. ie [3] North-South Ministerial Council: 2006 Annual Report in Ulster Scots (http:/ / www. northsouthministerialcouncil. org/ web_2006_ulster_scots_report. pdf) [4] North-South Ministerial Council: 2002 Annual Report in Ulster Scots (http:/ / www. northsouthministerialcouncil. org/ nsmc_annual_report_2002_-_ulster-scots_version_(pdf_837kb)-2. pdf) [5] Tourism Ireland – Yeirly Report 2009 (http:/ / www. tourismireland. com/ CMSPages/ GetFile. aspx?guid=646377f0-74e6-41ae-a616-2aecd44397eb) [6] http:/ / www. donegal. ie/ library/ aboutdonegal/ aboutdon. htm [7] Ireland Northwest (http:/ / www. irelandnorthwest. ie/ ?id=28). [8] http:/ / www. sinnfein. ie/ contents/ 16086 [9] For 1653 and 1659 figures from Civil Survey Census of those years, Paper of Mr Hardinge to Royal Irish Academy March 14, 1865. [10] Census for post 1821 figures. (http:/ / www. cso. ie/ census) [11] http:/ / www. histpop. org [12] http:/ / www. nisranew. nisra. gov. uk/ census [13] Lee, JJ (1981). "On the accuracy of the Pre-famine Irish censuses". In Goldstrom, J. M.; Clarkson, L. A.. Irish Population, Economy, and Society: Essays in Honour of the Late K. H. Connell. Oxford, England: Clarendon Press. [14] Mokyr, Joel; O Grada, Cormac (November). "New Developments in Irish Population History, 1700–1850" (http:/ / www3. interscience. wiley. com/ journal/ 120035880/ abstract). The Economic History eview 37 (4): 473–488. doi:10.1111/j.1468-0289.1984.tb00344.x. . [15] Patterson, Edward M (1962). The County Donegal Railways. Dawlish: David and Charles. pp. 9–10. [16] Morton, O. 2003. The marine macroalgae of County Donegal, Ireland. Bull. Ir. biogeog. Soc. 27: 3 – 164 [17] http:/ / www. dolmencentre. com/ archaeology. html [18] Renamed "County Tirconaill" 1922 by resolution of the county council.(Place Name Confusion – Donegal or Tirconaill, The Irish Times, April 24, 1924). After historians and Gaelic scholars pointed out that the historic territory of Tirconaill did not include the whole county, the name Donegal was re-adopted in 1927 (Back to "Donegal", The Irish Times, 22 November 1927). [19] Connolly, S.J., Oxford Companion to Irish History, page 129. Oxford University Press, 2002. ISBN 978-0-19-923483-7 [20] County 'wiped off crisis HQ maps' (http:/ / www. belfasttelegraph. co. uk/ breaking-news/ uk-ireland/ county-wiped-off-crisis-hq-maps-14774878. html). The Belfast Telegraph. 21 April 2010. [21] Donegal ‘disappears’ from crisis response maps (http:/ / oceanfm. ie/ news/ 2010/ 04/ 21/ donegal-disappears-from-crisis-response-maps/ ). Ocean FM. 21 April 2010. [22] "County Donegal" (http:/ / census. cso. ie/ sapmap2011/ Results. aspx?Geog_Type=CTY& Geog_Code=33& CTY=33). Central Statistics Office. 2011. . [23] Who Was Who in America, Historical Volume, 1607–1896. Chicago: Marquis Who's Who. 1963. [24] Club GAA – Donegal -http:/ / www. clubgaa. ie/ donegal/ index. htm 16 County Donegal Further reading • Seán Beattie (2004). Donegal. Sutton: Printing Press. ISBN 0-7509-3825-0.(Ireland in Old Photographs series) • Morton, O. 2003. The marine macroalgae of County Donegal, Ireland. Bull. Ir. biogeog.soc. 27: 3–164. • Annals of the Kingdom of Ireland (Annála Ríoghachta Éireann) by the Four Masters, from the earliest period to the year 1616, compiled during the period 1632–36 by Brother Michael O’Clery, translated and edited by John O'Donovan in 1856, and re-published in 1998 by De Burca, Dublin. • Parks, H.M. 1958. A general survey of the marine algae of Mulroy Bay, Co. Donegal. Ir. Nat. J. 12: 277–83. • Parks, H.M. 1958. A general survey of the marine algae of Mulroy Bay, Co. Donegal: II Ir. Nat. J. 12: 324–30. • Brian Lalor (General Editor), The Encyclopaedia of Ireland. Gill & Macmillan, Dublin 2003. • Jonathan Bardon, A History of Ulster (Paperback Edition). Blackstaff Press, Belfast 2005. • Willie Nolan, Máiread Dunleavy and Liam Ronayne (Ed.'s), Donegal: History & Society. Geography Publications, Dublin 1995. • Alistair Rowan, The Buildings of Ireland: North-West Ulster (Pevsner Guides). Yale University Press, London 1979. • Jim MacLaughlin (Editor), Donegal: The Making of a Northern County. Four Courts Press, Dublin 2007. • John McCavitt, The Flight of the Earls. Gill & Macmillan, Dublin 2005. • Seán Beattie, Ancient Monuments of Inishowen, North Donegal. Lighthouse Publications, Carndonagh, Inishowen, County Donegal, 1994 & 2009. • Lios-seachas o iar Thir Chonaill, A.J. Hughes, Donegal Annual 37, 1985, pp. 27–31. • Orthographical evidence of developments in Donegal Irish, A.J. Hughes, Eigse 22, 1987, pp. 126–34. • Rang scoile a teagascadh i dTir Chonaill?, A.J. Hughes, Donegal annual 39, 1987, pp. 99–102 External links • Official County Donegal Portal (http://www.donegal.ie/) • County Donegal Gaelscoil stats 2010-11 (http://www.gaelscoileanna.ie/assets/StaitisticÃ-2010-2011_Gaeilge. pdf) • Census 2011 - Donegal Gaeltacht stats (http://census.cso.ie/sapmap2011/Results.aspx?Geog_Type=GA& Geog_Code=02#T3_300) • Census 2006 - Irish language stats for the county (http://www.cso.ie/en/media/csoie/census/ census2006results/volume9/volume_9_irish_language_entire_volume.pdf) • Donegal County Council (http://www.donegalcoco.ie/) • Donegal County.com & Dún-na-nGall.com Bi-lingual County Site (http://www.dun-na-ngall.com/) • A site of information (http://www.webcitation.org/query?url=http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Estates/ 6587/Donegal.html&date=2009-10-25+07:35:09) • DylanFest in Moville (http://www.craicon.com/moville/1/dylanfest-2008-is-on.shtml) • Beatlesfest on the Lough (http://www.craicon.com/moville/1/beatlesfest-on-the-lough-.shtml) • On an Irish Jaunting Car through Donegal and Connemara (1902) (http://www.libraryireland.com/ Jaunting-Car/Title.php/) 17 Tyrconnell 18 Tyrconnell Kingdom of Tyrconnell Tír Chonaill ← 5th century–1607 Flag → Coat of arms Tyrconnell in the 1450s, prior to its maximum extent Capital Dun na nGall Language(s) Irish Government Monarchy King - d. 464 Conall Gulban (first) - 1602–1607 Rudhraighe Ó Domhnaill (last) History - Established 5th century - Disestablished 1607 Tyrconnell or Tirconnell (Irish: Tír Chonaill, meaning "Land of Conall") can refer to: • Ostensibly, the last truly independent Gaelic sovereignty, which had achieved a status of medieval statehood, and hence the last Gaelic state in Ireland, although never covering more than a part of the country, until its rulers, the O'Donnells, who governed under the Brehon Laws, fell from power after defeat by English forces at Kinsale in 1601. Tyrconnell • a territory in Ireland, now more commonly referred to as County Donegal, although the Kingdom and later Principality of Tyrconnell was broader than that, including parts of Sligo, Leitrim (present day Republic of Ireland), Tyrone, Fermanagh and a southern part of Derry (currently Northern Ireland). According to Keating, it included the baronies of Carbury (Cairbre, in county Sligo), Rosclogher (Dartrighe in county Leitrim), and Magheraboy (mainly Toorah or Tuath Ratha) and Firlurg in county Fermanagh). As such it reached roughly a size varying between that of Corsica(8,680 km2), Cyprus (9,251 km2), and Lebanon(10,452 km2). ( It was founded in the fifth century by a son of Niall of the Nine Hostages, Conall Gulban, of whom the Cenél Conaill were descended. His descendants ruled the kingdom till the Flight of the Earls in September 1607, which marked the end of the kingdom. • the Kingdom (O'Donnell), Principality (O'Donnell), Jacobite Dukedom (Richard Talbot), 4 Earldoms (separate Earldoms created for O'Donnell, Fitzwilliam, Talbot, Carpenter, each progressively following the extinction of the previous), Viscountcy (Brownlow); all of these are extinct titles, except the 1st Earldom (O'Donnell), which was attainted in 1614. • the dynastic House of O'Donnell of Tyrconnell, which includes the Chieftaincy and its successors in direct descent from the last inaugurated Chieftain and his predecessors. • the Chieftaincy (O'Donnell) which is also extinct, although a Chief of the Name was recognised by the Chief Herald of Ireland, as the legitimate successor in a putative sequence of Chiefs of the Name, and will default to the Duke of Tetuan in Spain in succession to the current Chief, a Franciscan priest, who has no eligible progeny. • the Hereditary Seneschal (vested in a living O'Donnell, who was already ennobled as a Knight of Malta, and who inherited the Seneschalship from his father), which survives under the auspices of the Hereditary Great Seneschal or Lord High Steward of Ireland, the Premier Earl of Ireland (Chetwynd-Talbot), who is the Earl of Shrewsbury, Waterford and Talbot, and is senior direct descendant of the 2nd Earl of Tyrconnell (extinct), and senior kin of the Duke of Tyrconnel Richard Talbot (extinct), • the Earldom of Tyrconnell, of which there were 4 separate creations • The Tyrconnell, a racehorse in 1876, • The Tyrconnell, a revived brand of single malt Irish whiskey originally named for the horse, • a gold mine near Mareeba, Queensland, Australia. • Tirconnell, County Fermanagh, a townland in County Fermanagh, Northern Ireland Related bibliography • The History of Ireland, by Geoffrey Keating, D.D. (1580-1644), written in the years prior to 1640, and known in the original Gaelic as "Foras Feasa ar Eirinn" (le Seathrun Ceitinn), published by the Irish Texts Society, London, 1914. Volume IV. See index entry for Tír Chonaill • The Life of Hugh Roe O'Donnell, Prince of Tyrconnell (Beatha Aodh Ruadh O Domhnaill) by Lughaidh O'Cleirigh. Edited by Fr. Paul Walsh and Colm Ó Lochlainn. Irish Texts Society, vol. 42. Dublin: Educational Company of Ireland, 1948 (original Gaelic manuscript in the Royal Irish Academy in Dublin). • Annals of the Kingdom of Ireland (Annála Ríoghachta Éireann) by the Four Masters, from the earliest period to the year 1616, compiled during the period 1632-1636 by Brother Michael O’Clery, translated and edited by John O'Donovan in 1856, and re-published in 1998 by De Burca, Dublin. • Blood Royal - From the time of Alexander the Great to Queen Elizabeth II, by Charles Mosley (genealogist), published for Ruvigny Ltd., London, 2002 [ISBN 0-9524229-9-9] • Vicissitudes of Families, by Sir Bernard Burke, Ulster King of Arms, published by Longman, Green, Longman and Roberts, Paternoster Row, London, 1861. (Chapter on O’Donnells, pages 125-148). • The Fate and Fortunes of the Earls of Tyrone (Hugh O’Neill) and Tyrconnel (Rory O’Donel), their flight from Ireland and death in exile, by the Rev. C. P. Meehan, M.R.I.A., 2nd edition, James Duffy, London, 1870. • Erin’s Blood Royal – The Gaelic Noble Dynasties of Ireland, by Peter Berresford Ellis, Constable, London, 1999, (pages 251-258 on the O’Donel, Prince of Tirconnell). 19 Tyrconnell • Vanishing Kingdoms - The Irish Chiefs and Their Families, by Walter J. P. Curley (former US Ambassador to Ireland), with foreword by Charles Lysaght, published by The Lilliput Press, Dublin, 2004 [ISBN 1-84351-055-3 & ISBN 1-84351-056-1]. (Chapter on O'Donnell of Tyrconnell, page 59). • A View of the Legal Institutions, Honorary Hereditary Offices, and Feudal Baronies established in Ireland, by William Lynch, Fellow of the Society of Antiquaries, published by Longman, Rees, Orme, Brown, and Green, Paternoster Row, London, 1830 (O’Donnell: page 190, remainder to Earl’s patent). 20 O'Donnell dynasty 21 O'Donnell dynasty For other uses, see O'Donnell (disambiguation). O'Donnell Armorial of O'Donnell (one of several) Country Kingdom of Tyrconnell Ancestral house Cenél Conaill / Uí Néill Titles Cenél Conaill: • • • • • Kings of Tara High Kings of Ireland Kings of Tyrconnell Protectors of Dál Riata [1] Kings of Scotland ? O'Donnell: • • • • Kings of Tyrconnell King of Leth Cuinn Prince of Durlass Lord of Lower Connacht International titles: • • • • • • • • • • • Prince of Tyrconnell Earl of Tyrconnell Duke of Tetuan Count of Lucena Count of La Bisbal Count O'Donel von Tyrconnell Viscount of Aliaga Countess of Fingall Baron of Fingal Baron of Donegal Baron of Lifford Founder Conall Gulban Final sovereign Rory Ó Donnell, King of Tyrconnell Current head Fr. Hugh Ambrose O'Donel, O.F.M. Heir apparent: The 7th Duke of Tetuan Founding 13th (5th) century Cadet branches O'Donell von Tyrconnell O'Donnell (Irish: Ó Dónaill or Ó Domhnaill), which is derived from the forename Domhnall (meaning "world ruler", Rex Mundi in Latin, Modern Irish spelling, Dónall) were an ancient and powerful Irish family, kings, princes, and lords of Tír Chonaill (rendered in English as Tyrconnell or Tyrconnel, known today as County Donegal) in early times, and the chief allies and sometimes rivals of the O'Neills in Ulster. O'Donnell dynasty Origins Like the family of O'Neill, that of O'Donnell of Tyrconnell was of the Uí Néill, i.e. descended from Niall of the Nine Hostages, High-King of Ireland at the beginning of the 5th century; the O'Neill, or Cenél nEógain, tracing their pedigree to Eógan mac Néill, and the O'Donnells, or Cenél Conaill, to Conall Gulban, both sons of Niall. Conall was baptised by St. Patrick. Arms and motto The Roman Emperor Constantine the Great converted to Christianity after a vision before the famous Battle of the Milvian Bridge, having seen a chi-rho in the sky, and thence the motto In Hoc Signo Vinces, telling him he would be victorious with the sign of the cross. The chi-rho was adopted on a banner, the labarum, upheld on a vexillum, which resembled a Christian cross, and in time the motto became associated with the Cross all over Europe. Legend has it that St. Patrick struck the shield of Conall, son of King Niall of the Nine Hostages, with his crosier, called Bachall Isa (the staff of Jesus) inscribing thereon a sign of the cross and told him the same, and baptized him. According to the Life and Acts of Saint Patrick (chapter 138), commissioned by Sir John de Courcy and written by Jocelyn of Furness (c. 1185 AD), St. Patrick took his staff, known as the staff of Jesus, or Bacall Iosa, and struck the shield of Prince Conall, rendering a sign of the Cross on it, “et mox cum baculo suo, qui baculus Jesu dicebatur Crucis signum ejus scuto impressit, asserens neminem de stirpe ejus in bello vincendum qui signum illud” , and thus indicating that that he and his offspring would henceforth be victorious in battle if they followed that sign [2] This legend is also described several centuries later in the Lebhar Inghine i Dhomhnaill.[3] His land became Tír Chonaill, Tyrconnell, the land of Conall. Conall's Constantinian shield, and this motto, have been the main O’Donnell arms[4] in various forms, through the centuries. The motto also appears prominently placed as a motto on a ribbon unfurled with a passion cross to its left, beneath a window over the Scala Regia, adjacent to Bernini's equestrian statue of Emperor Constantine, in the Vatican. Emperors and other monarchs, having paid respects to the Pope, descended the Scala Regia, and would observe the light shining down through the window, with the motto, reminiscent of Constantine's vision, and be reminded to follow the Cross. They would thence turn right into the atrium of St. Peter's Basilica, ostensibly so inspired. In an earlier version (before Bernini's renovations in the mid-17th century), something similar may have resonated with and been observed by Prince Rory O'Donnell, 1st Earl of Tyrconnell following his visit to Pope Paul V (at the Palazzo Quirinale) in Rome, just prior to his death in 1608. It would certainly have resonated with and been observed by Cardinal Patrick O'Donnell. Territory Tyrconnell, the territory named after the Cenel Conaill, is the vast territory where the O'Donnells held sway, comprised the greater part of the modern county of Donegal except the peninsula of Inishowen. But it also included areas outside Donegal, such as the baronies of Carbury in County Sligo, Rosclogher in County Leitrim, and Magheraboy and Firlurg in County Fermanagh, and part of southern County Londonderry, hence it straddled the modern Republic of Ireland and also part of Northern Ireland in the UK. The jewel in the O'Donnell crown was Donegal Castle, one of seven O'Donnell castles, and now a national monument partially restored by the Office of Public Works. Tyrconnell also therefore bordered on territory ruled by the O'Neills of Tyrone, who were periodically attempting to assert their claim of supremacy over it, and hence the history of the O'Donnells is for the most part a record of clan warfare with their powerful neighbours, and of their own efforts to make good their claims to the overlordship of northern Connacht, and a wider swathe of Ulster. Nonetheless Tyrconnell existed for a period as an independent kingdom, recognised by King Henry III of England (see Close Roll, in the Tower of London, 28 Hen. 3m.7). 22 O'Donnell dynasty Ascendancy Goffraidh Ó Dónaill, the first chieftain, was son of Dónall Mór Ó Dónaill. In 1257, Goffraidh was victorious when he went to battle at Creadran-Cille against Brian Ua Néill. Upon Goffraidh's death, subsequent to wounds incurred during battle against Ó Néill, he was succeeded in the chieftainship by his brother Dónall Óg, who returned from Scotland in time to withstand successfully the demands of Ó Néill. Later, the O'Donnell rulers aided Templar knights fleeing to Scotland via Tyrconnell and Sligo, where a Templar priory existed at Ballymote [5], a Percival family estate for the last 300 years. The O'Donnell King of Tyrconnell became known as the Fisher-King, on the Continent, ostensibly due to the export of fish traded for wine in La Rochelle. Royal Household The Royal Household was known in Gaelic as "Lucht Tighe" and comprised several offices that were performed on a hereditary basis by the heads and members of particular other families, for over four centuries. • Lector & Inaugurator of the Chieftaincy - O’Friel (Ui Firghil) • Gallowglass Marshalls & Standard –Bearers - MacSweeney (Mac Suibhne) • Commanders of Cavalry - O’Gallagher (Ui Gallchobhair) • • • • • • Custodians of the Cathach of St. Columba - McRoarty (Mac Robhartaigh) Historians and Scribes - O’Clery (Ó Cléirigh), formerly kings of Uí Fiachrach Aidhne Brehons or Judges - Breslin (Ui Breisléin) Bards & Poets - Ward (Mac a’Bháird) Physicians - Dunleevy (Mac Duinnshléibhe), formerly Kings of Ulster (Dál Fiatach of Ulaid) Stockmen/Cattle Drivers - Timoney (Ui Tiománaigh) Later struggles and diaspora The O'Donnells defeated the O'Neills in the 1522 Battle of Knockavoe. In 1541 Manus O'Donnell took part in the "Surrender and regrant" process. In 1567 the O'Donnells won the Battle of Farsetmore against the O'Neills, reconfirming their autonomy in Ulster. During the Nine Years' War of 1594-1603, the O'Donnells of Tyrconnel played a leading part, led by the famous Prince Red Hugh O'Donnell. Under his leadership, and that of his ally Hugh O'Neill, they advanced to Kinsale and laid siege to the English forces in anticipation of a Spanish invasion. En route, they implanted some O'Donnell kinsmen in Ardfert and Lixnaw to protect the territories of their ally, FitzMaurice, Lord of Kerry. The Battle of Kinsale was lost in 1601, heralding the end of the Gaelic order and Brehon Laws in Ireland, and the completion of the Elizabethan conquest. Following the Treaty of Mellifont of 1603 the new KIng James I pardoned Rory O'Donnell and created him Earl of Tyrconnell in the Irish peerage. Rory then unfortunately joined in the Flight of the Earls in 1607, which led to the title becoming attainted in 1614, and Tyrconnell and Ulster being colonised in the Plantation of Ulster. He died in exile in Rome in 1608. 23 O'Donnell dynasty Succession The head of the dynasty was traditionally also called "The O'Donnell", and inaugurated as Chieftain in an elaborate ceremony, under the Laws of Tanistry, part of the ancient Brehon Code of Law. Since the collapse of Gaelic Rule and the Brehon legal system, the succession of the "Chiefs of the Name" has followed the principle of male primogeniture. On this basis, the current nominal head of the O'Donnell Clan (Clan Dálaigh), who bears the courtesy title of "The O'Donnell", i.e. the latest in the line of Chiefs of the Name of O'Donnell of Tyrconnell, customarily recognised as a Prince, is Fr. Hugh O'Donel, O.F.M., a Franciscan priest in Dublin who recently retired from missionary work in Zimbabwe. His widely-recognised Tánaiste (or heir apparent) as The O'Donnell of Tyrconnell, Prince and Chief of the Name of O'Donnell, is S.E. Don Hugo O'Donnell, Duke of Tetuan, a Grandee of Spain. He is known as S.E. Don Hugo O'Donnell y Duque de Estrada - the latter appendant Duque de Estrada is not a title but a maternal family name. Don Hugo is an active member of the Clan Association of the O'Donnells of Tyrconnell, and a member of the nobiliary Sovereign Military Hospitaller Order of Saint John of Jerusalem, of Rhodes, and of Malta, i.e. a Knight of Malta. Descendant nobility • Manus O'Donnell (1490–1564), The O'Donnell, 21st Chieftain, King of Tyrconnell, and biographer of Saint Colmcille or Columba • Calvagh O'Donnell (d. 1566), The O'Donnell, 22nd Chieftain and Lord of Tyrconnell • Niall Garve O'Donnell (1569–1626), Prince of Tyrconnell • Hugh Roe Ó Donnell (1572–1601), The O'Donnell, 24th Chieftain, Prince and Lord of Tyrconnell • Rory O'Donnell, 1st Earl of Tyrconnell (1575–1608), The O'Donnell, Prince and Lord of Tyrconnell • Elizabeth O'Donnell (1604–c.1630), daughter of Rory, Prince of Tyrconnell • Hugh O'Donnell, 2nd Earl of Tyrconnell (1606–1642), Prince and Lord of Tyrconnell • Karl O'Donnell (1715–1771), Count of Tyrconnell • Henry O'Donnell (1769–1834), Count of La Bisbal, Irish-Spanish nobleman (de:Joseph Heinrich O’Donnell) • Maurice O’Donnell de Tyrconnell (1780–1843), of Pressburg, also known as Moritz Graf O’Donnell von Tyrconnell, an Irish-Austrian Count • Maximilian Karl Lamoral O'Donnell von Tyrconnell, (1812–1895), Irish-Austrian Count, son of Maurice/Moritz • Jean Louis Barthelemy O’Donnell (1783–1836), Irish-French Count, member of Napoleon's Conseil d’État and Légion d'honneur • Leopoldo O'Donnell, 1st Duke of Tetuan (1809–1867), former Prime Minister of Spain • Carlos O'Donnell, 2nd Duke of Tetuan (1834–1903), Minister of State for Spain • Hugo O'Donnell, 7th Duke of Tetuan (b. 1948), a Spanish naval historian and Knight of Malta Recent times Cardinal Patrick O'Donnell was probably the next famous O'Donnell to emerge in Ireland after the exile of Rory O'Donnell, 1st Earl of Tyrconnell. Thomas O'Donnell (MP) for West Kerry (1900–1918) was a leading agrarian reformer, and the first Member of Parliament to address the House of Commons in Westminster in the Irish language (Gaelic), but was called to order by the Speaker, but not without having made his mark with John Redmond's support. There is currently an Irish Senator from County Donegal named Brian o Domhnaill (o Donnell). 24 O'Donnell dynasty Bibliography • The Life of Hugh Roe O'Donnell, Prince of Tyrconnell (Beatha Aodh Ruadh O Domhnaill) by Lughaidh O'Cleirigh. Edited by Paul Walsh and Colm Ó Lochlainn. Irish Texts Society, vol. 42. Dublin: Educational Company of Ireland, 1948 (original Gaelic manuscript in the Royal Irish Academy in Dublin). • Annals of the Kingdom of Ireland (Annála Ríoghachta Éireann) by the Four Masters, from the earliest period to the year 1616, compiled during the period 1632-1636 by Brother Mícheál Ó Cléirigh, translated and edited by John O'Donovan in 1856, and re-published in 1998 by De Burca, Dublin. • Vicissitudes of Families, by Sir Bernard Burke, Ulster King of Arms, published by Longman, Green, Longman and Roberts, Paternoster Row, London, 1861. (Chapter on O’Donnells, pages 125-148). • A View of the Legal Institutions, Honorary Hereditary Offices, and Feudal Baronies established in Ireland, by William Lynch, Fellow of the Society of Antiquaries, published by Longman, Rees, Orme, Brown, and Green, Paternoster Row, London, 1830 (O’Donnell: page 190, remainder to Earl’s patent). • The Fate and Fortunes of the Earls of Tyrone (Hugh O’Neill) and Tyrconnel (Rory O’Donel), their flight from Ireland and death in exile, by the Rev. C. P. Meehan, M.R.I.A., 2nd edition, James Duffy, London, 1870. • The Fighting Prince of Donegal, A Walt Disney Film, made in 1966 about the life of Prince Red Hugh O’Donnell (i.e. Hugh Roe), starring Peter McEnery, Susan Hampshire, Gordon Jackson, and Andrew Keir. • Erin’s Blood Royal – The Gaelic Noble Dynasties of Ireland, by Peter Berresford Ellis, Constable, London, 1999, (pages 251-258 on the O’Donel, Prince of Tirconnell). • Blood Royal - From the time of Alexander the Great to Queen Elizabeth II, by Charles Mosley (genealogist), published for Ruvigny Ltd., London, 2002 (O'Donnell listed as Baron, page v) [ISBN 0-9524229-9-9] • History of Killeen Castle, by Mary Rose Carty, published by Carty/Lynch, Dunsany, County Meath, Ireland, April 1991 (ISBN 0-9517382-0-8) - page 18 refers to Elizabeth O'Donnell as 1st Countess of Fingal, by marriage to Lucas Plunkett, 1st Earl of Fingall. • Vanishing Kingdoms - The Irish Chiefs and Their Families, by Walter J. P. Curley (former US Ambassador to Ireland), with foreword by Charles Lysaght, published by The Lilliput Press, Dublin, 2004 [ISBN 1-84351-055-3 & ISBN 1-84351-056-1]. (Chapter on O'Donnell of Tyrconnell, page 59). • A Political Odyssey - Thomas O'Donnell, by J. Anthony Gaughan, Kingdom Books, Dublin, 1983. References [1] Sir Iain Moncreiffe made the case that Crinan of Dunkeld and thus the House of Dunkeld were of Cenél Conaill extraction. The Highland Clans. Part II. 1982. p. 236 [2] Life and Acts of Saint Patrick, by Jocelyn of Furness (chapter 138) (http:/ / en. wikisource. org/ wiki/ The_Life_and_Acts_of_St. _Patrick/ Chapter_CXXXVIII). [3] Lebhar Inghine i Dhomhnaill (The Book of O'Donnell's Daughter), a medieval Gaelic manuscript finished in the early 1600s in the Irish Franciscan College in Louvain, and lodged today in the Bibliotheque Royale in Brussels (Ms reference 6131-3). . Examples of the arms registered date back to 1567 at least, when Sir Hugh Dubh O'Donnell was knighted by Sir Henry Sidney (see Genealogical Office Manuscript "Knights Dubbed" no.51, page 115) [4] An exemplification can be found in those of Rory O'Donnell, 1st Earl of Tyrconnell, in Manuscript 34 of the Genealogical Office under the Chief Herald of Ireland [5] http:/ / www. templehouse. ie/ • This article incorporates text from a publication now in the public domain: Chisholm, Hugh, ed. (1911). Encyclopædia Britannica (11th ed.). Cambridge University Press. 25 Cenél Conaill 26 Cenél Conaill The Cenél Conaill is the name of the "kindred" or descendants of Conall Gulban, son of Niall Noígiallach defined by oral and recorded history. They were also known in Scotland as the Kindred of Saint Columba. The dynasties created by Niall's sons include the Cenél Conaill, Cenél Eogain and Cenél Eanna. Ancestors of the Cenél Conaill Niall Noígiallach, died c. A.D.405. | |________________________________________________________________________________ | | | | | | | | | | | | Conall Gulban Eoghan Coirpre Fiacha Conall Cremthainne Lóegaire | | | | | | | | | | | | | Cenél nEógain | Cenél Fiachach | Cenél Lóegaire | | | | Cenél Coirpri / \ | / \ | / \ | Clann Cholmáin Síl nÁedo Sláine | Cenél Conaill of In Fochla | |_________________________________________________ | | | | | | Fergus Cennfota Doi Enna Bogaine | (Cenél nDuach) (Cenél mBogaine) | | aka (Cenel Enda)______ | | | | | | | | | | | Ua Breslin's | | | of Cenél Conaill Cinel Enda | | | | | Ninnid, fl. 561 | | | | | Baetan, d. 586 | |_________ | | | | Setna Feidlimid | | | | mBogaine, d. 609 ! ! ! ! ! !___________ ! ! ! ! Eoghan Columb Cille, 521-597 ! ! ! ! ! O'Freel ! |_______________________________ | | | | | | Ainmire, d. 569 Colum Lugaid 644 Ri of Ireland | | | | | Cenél Lugdach mBogaine, d. 672 | | | | | Ronan | | | | Diberg, d. 703 | Garb | | | | Flaithgus, d. 732 | | | | | Cen Faelad 27 | | Melge | | Brandub | ? | Garban | | Sechnasach, Rí Cenél ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! |______________ | | | | Mael Tuile Bresal, d. | | Dungal, Rí Cenél | |______________ | | | | Sechnasach Dub | ? | | | Forbasach Rí Cenél mBogaine d. 722 | ? | Cenél Conaill | | Rogaillnech, d. 815 | _______________________| | | | | | | | Mael Duin Fiaman | | | | ? ? | | | | Airnelach Maenguile | | | | | | | | | | | | | Cen Faelad Dochartach | | (Clann Ua Dochartaig) | | | |____________________________________________ | | | | | | | Dalach, 'Dux' Cenél Conaill, d. 870. Bradagain | | | | | | | Eicnecan, Rí Cenél Conaill, d. 906 Baigill | | (Clann Ua Baighill) | | | |_______________________________________________________________________ | | ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !| ! ! ! ! ! ! ! | two sons Flann Adlann Domnall Mor Conchobar | d. 956 & 962. Abbot of Derry (Clann Ua Domnaill | d. 950. Kings of Cenel Conaill after 1270 a.d.) | |_______________________ | | | | Áed, d. 598 Ciaran | | | | | Fiachra, founder of Derry, died 620. | 28 Cenél Conaill |__________________________________________________________ | | | | | | | | Domnall, d. 642 Conall Cu Mael Cobo, d. 615 Cumuscach, d. 597 High King d. 604 High King of Ireland | of Ireland |____________ | | | | | | | Cellach Conall Cael | | both died 658/664 | | | (Clann Ua Gallchobair) | | |_____________________________________________________________________________ | | | | | ! | | | | | ! Oengus, d. 650 Conall Colgu Ailill Flannesda Fergus Fanat | d.663 d.663 d.666 d. 654 ! | ! ! ! ! ! | | | Congal Cenn Magair | d. 710 | High King of Ireland | ! | _____________________|_______ 29 Cenél Conaill 30 | | | | | | | | | Gohan Conaig | d. 733 ! ! | O'Breslin-Fanat Loingsech, d. 703 High King of Ireland | Donngal d. 731 Flann d. 732 ! ! |_____________________________________________________________________ | | | | | | | | | | Flaithbertach, deposed 734. Fergus, d. 707 three other sons, all killed 703 | |_______________________________________________________________________ | | | | | | Aed Muinderg, Ri In Tuisceart, d. 747. Loingsech Murchad | Rí Cenél Conaill Rí Cenél Conaill |_______________ d. 754 d. 767 | | | | | | Domnall Donnchad Mael Bresail d. 804 fl. 784 Rí Cenél Conaill | d. 767 | Cenél Conaill 31 | Flaithbertach | | Oengus | | Canannan | (Ua Canannain) Mael Doraid (Ua Maildoraid) Ri Cenel Conaill | _______|_______ | | | | Fogartach Mael Bresail Rí Cenél Conaill Rí Cenél Conaill d. 904 d. 901 Oral history Conall Gulban, son of Niall of the Nine Hostages, founded the kingdom of Tír Conaill (Tyrconnell) in the 5th century. It comprises much of what is now County Donegal, and several surrounding areas. Further reading • O'Brien, Michael A., ed.; Kelleher, John V. (intro. in the reprints of 1976 and 2005) (1962). Corpus Genealogiarum Hiberniae. 1. Dublin: DIAS. pp. 163–5, 435. ISBN 0901282316. OCLC 56540733. genealogies for the northern Cenél Conaill River Eske 32 River Eske The River Eske (Irish: Abhainn na hIascaigh) (also Eask) is a river in the northwest of Ireland in County Donegal in Ulster, beginning at Lough Eske in southeast County Donegal before flowing mainly westwards to the town of Donegal and into the Atlantic via Donegal Bay. The river itself is only 5 kilometers and Donegal Town is the only major settlement through which it flows.[1] Despite its size, the river is well known for fishing, especially for spring salmon, sea trout and char, with the season running from 1 March to 31 September. Map showing the flow of River Eske and the six road bridges that cross it The river flows in the Bluestack Mountains which are to the north of Donegal Town. In the town, it passes several tourist attractions, one of which is Donegal Castle, the former seat of the O'Donnell Clan, the ancient rulers of the Lordship of Tyrconnell (roughly similar to modern day County Donegal without the Inishowen Peninsula). The mouth of the river is directly opposite a former Franciscan Abbey which was built by the O'Donnells but was destroyed by the English following the Flight of the Earls in 1607. River Eske flowing through Donegal Town. Bridges Almost as soon as the river parts from Lough Eske, it is crossed by Lough Eske Bridge; the river then flows in a southwest direction towards Donegal Town with the next crossing some two kilometers down stream at what is called Thrushbank Bridge; it continues southwestwards and is crossed by the N56 section of the Donegal Town By-pass by a new concrete bridge. From this new bridge it heads soutwards were the smaller Drummenny River joins it before it heads westwards into the town, flowing past the Community Hospital. The river flows through three bridges in the actual town: the first and newest of the bridges is at Water Street, there have been several bridges at this sight since at least the 1830s which included wooden and concrete structures, the current bridge was ereted in 2004. From Water Street the Eske flows westwards and is bridged at Tyrconnell Street, this bridge is known as the 'Iron Bridge' for self-explanitory reasons and was constructed in 1895 although drawings show a bridge at the sight from earlier in the century, the bridge is being lined up for replacement because of its worsening state. The river finally flows southwards to Bridge Street, this is a three arched bridge originally constructed in between 1835 and 1840 and is now on the Record of Protected Structures as of 2003, this bridge is close to the sight of the original crossing of the river. After this final bridge the river meets with the sea, flowing into Donegal Bay.[2] River Eske References [1] National Regional Fisheries Board (http:/ / www. nrfb. ie/ fishing/ salmon/ eske. htm) [2] Malachy Sweeney; The Sands of Time, A History of Donegal Town and its Environs Donegal Bay Donegal Bay (Bá Dhún na nGall in Irish) is an inlet (or bay) in the northwest of Ireland. Three counties – Donegal to the north and west, Leitrim and Sligo to the south – have shorelines on the bay, which is bounded on the west by the Atlantic Ocean. The town of Donegal and the River Eske lie at the head of the bay. Donegal Bay is Ireland's largest bay, and also contains Ulster's highest (and Europe's sixth-highest) sea cliffs at Slieve League, which tower 1972 ft (601 m) above sea level. Donegal Bay's beaches have some of Europe's finest surfing, caused by a combination by a direct west-facing location and the funnel-shape of Donegal Bay (the westerlies of the Atlantic Ocean get funnelled into a relatively small area, which increases the size of the swell). Rossnowlagh and Bundoran are recognised by the European surfing community as among Ireland's finest surf beaches with good facilities and excellent water quality. 33 Donegal Bay 34 Towns on the Bay • • • • • • • • • Ballyshannon Bundoran Coolmore Donegal Killybegs Mountcharles Mullaghmore Rossnowlagh Tullaghan Rivers that empty into the bay • River Drowes (between Bundoran and Tullaghan) • River Erne (at Ballyshannon) • River Eske (at Donegal Town) Islands in the bay • Isle of St Ernan • Belle's Isle • Rotten Island Donegal Bay on Ireland's west coast Geographical coordinates • Latitude: 54° 40' N (54.67) • Longitude: 9° 04' W (-9.07) • NWS buoy: 62093 M4 External links • Donegal Bay Visitors site [1] • Donegal Bay Weather Buoy [2] References • Slieve League cliffs [3] References [1] http:/ / www. donegalbay. com/ [2] http:/ / www. ndbc. noaa. gov/ station_page. php?station=62093 [3] http:/ / www. brilliantireland. com/ products/ inc_productdetails. cfm/ product_key/ 35 Bluestack Mountains 35 Bluestack Mountains The Bluestack Mountains or Blue Stack Mountains, also called the Croaghgorms (Irish: na Cruacha Gorma, meaning "the blue stacks"), are the major mountain range in the south of County Donegal, Ireland. They provide a barrier between the south of the county, such as Donegal Town and Ballyshannon, and the towns to the north and west such as Dungloe and Letterkenny. The road between the two parts of the county goes through the Barnesmore Gap. Binnasruell in the Croaghgorms Binnasruell in the Croaghgorms Eglish glen in the Croaghgorms Saint Patrick 36 Saint Patrick Saint Patrick Honored in Roman Catholic Church Eastern Orthodoxy Anglican Communion Lutheran Church Major shrine Glastonbury Abbey; Armagh Feast 17 March (Saint Patrick's Day) Patronage Ireland, Nigeria, Montserrat, Roman Catholic Archdiocese of New York, Boston, Loíza, Murcia (Spain), engineers, paralegals, [1] Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Melbourne; invoked against snakes, sins, witchcraft Saint Patrick (Latin: Patricius; Primitive Irish: *Qatrikias;[2][3] Old Irish: Cothraige or Coithrige;[4] Middle Irish: Pátraic; Irish: Pádraig; Old Welsh: Patric; Middle Welsh: Padric; Welsh: Padrig; Old English: Patric; ca. 387 – 17 March, 493[5] or ca. 460[6]) was a Romano-British and Christian missionary, who is the most generally recognized patron saint of Ireland or the Apostle of Ireland, although Brigid of Kildare and Colmcille are also formally patron saints. Two authentic letters from him survive, from which come the only generally-accepted details of his life.[7] When he was about 16, he was captured from his home by Irish raiders and taken as a slave to Ireland, where he lived for six years before escaping and returning to his family. After entering the Church, he returned to Ireland as an ordained bishop in the north and west of the island, but little is known about the places where he worked. By the seventh century, he had come to be revered as the patron saint of Ireland. Most available details of his life are from later hagiographies from the seventh century onwards, and these are now not accepted without detailed criticism. Uncritical acceptance of the Annals of Ulster would imply that he lived from 340 to 440, and ministered in what is modern-day Northern Ireland from AD 428 onwards. The dates of Patrick's life cannot be fixed with certainty but, on a widespread interpretation, he was active as a missionary in Ireland during the second half of the fifth century.[8] Saint Patrick's Day is observed on March 17, the date of his death.[9] It is celebrated both inside and outside Ireland, as both a liturgical and non-liturgical holiday. In the dioceses of Ireland, it is both a solemnity and a holy day of obligation; outside Ireland, it can be a celebration of Ireland itself. Saint Patrick 37 Background Most modern scholars of Saint Patrick follow a variant of T. F. O'Rahilly's "Two Patricks" theory.[10] That is to say, many of the traditions later attached to Saint Patrick actually concerned Palladius, who Prosper of Aquitaine's Chronicle says was sent by Pope Celestine I as the first bishop to Irish Christians in 431.[11] Palladius was not the only early cleric in Ireland at this time. The Irish-born Saint Ciaran Saighir the Elder lived in the later fourth century (352–402 AD) and was the first bishop of Ossory. Ciaran the Elder along with Saints Auxilius, Secundinus and Iserninus are also associated with early churches in Munster and Leinster. By this reading, Palladius was active in Ireland until the 460s.[12] Prosper associates Palladius' appointment with the visits of Germanus of Auxerre to Britain to suppress the Pelagian heresy and it has been suggested that Palladius and his colleagues were sent to Ireland to ensure that exiled Pelagians did not establish themselves among the Irish Christians. The appointment of Palladius and his fellow-bishops was not obviously a mission to convert the Irish, but more probably intended to minister to existing Christian communities in Ireland.[13] The sites of churches associated with Palladius and his colleagues are close to royal centres of the period: Secundus is remembered by Dunshaughlin, County Meath, close to the Hill of Tara which is associated with the High King of Ireland; Killashee, County Kildare, close to Naas with links with the Kings of Leinster, is probably named for Auxilius. This activity was limited to the southern half of Ireland, and there is no evidence for them in Ulster or Connacht.[14] Although the evidence for contacts with Gaul is clear, the borrowings from Latin into the Old Irish language show that links with Roman Britain were many.[15] Saint Iserninus, who appears to be of the generation of Palladius, is thought to have been a Briton, and is associated with the lands of the Uí Cheinnselaig in Leinster. The Palladian mission should not be contrasted with later "British" missions, but forms a part of them;[16] nor can the work of Palladius be uncritically equated with that of Saint Patrick, as was once traditional.[17] In his own words Two Latin letters survive which are generally accepted to have been written by St. Patrick. These are the Declaration (Latin: Confessio) and the Letter to the soldiers of Coroticus (Latin: Epistola).[18] The Declaration is the more important of the two. In it Patrick gives a short account of his life and his mission. St. Patrick was born in Roman Britain at Banna Venta Berniae, a location otherwise unknown,[19][20][21] though identified in one tradition as Glannoventa, modern Ravenglass in Cumbria.[22] Calpornius, his father, was a deacon, his grandfather Potitus, a priest. When he was about sixteen, he was captured and carried off as a slave to Ireland.[23] Patrick worked as a herdsman, remaining a captive for six years. He writes that his faith grew in captivity, and that he prayed daily.[24] After six years he heard a voice telling him that he would soon go home, and then that his ship was ready. Fleeing his master, he travelled to a port, two hundred miles away he says,[25] where he found a ship and, after various adventures, returned home to his family, now in his early twenties.[26] Slemish, County Antrim, where Saint Patrick is said to have worked as a shepherd while a slave. Patrick recounts that he had a vision a few years after returning home: I saw a man coming, as it were from Ireland. His name was Victoricus, and he carried many letters, and he gave me one of them. I read the heading: "The Voice of the Irish". As I began the letter, I imagined in that moment that I heard the voice of those very people who were near the wood of Foclut, which is Saint Patrick beside the western sea—and they cried out, as with one voice: "We appeal to you, holy servant boy, to come and walk among us." [27] A. B. E. Hood suggests that the Victoricus of St. Patrick's vision may be identified with Saint Victricius, bishop of Rouen in the late fourth century, who was the only European churchman of the time to advocate or practice conversion of pagans, and who visited Britain in an official capacity in 396.[28] Much of the Declaration concerns charges made against St. Patrick by his fellow Christians at a trial. What these charges were, he does not say explicitly, but he writes that he returned the gifts which wealthy women gave him, did not accept payment for baptisms, nor for ordaining priests, and indeed paid for many gifts to kings and judges, and paid for the sons of chiefs to accompany him. It is concluded, therefore, that he was accused of some sort of financial impropriety, and perhaps of having obtained his bishopric in Ireland with personal gain in mind.[29] From this same evidence, something can be seen of St. Patrick's mission. He writes that he "baptised thousands of people".[30] He ordained priests to lead the new Christian communities. He converted wealthy women, some of whom became nuns in the face of family opposition. He also dealt with the sons of kings, converting them too.[31] St. Patrick's position as a foreigner in Ireland was not an easy one. His refusal to accept gifts from kings placed him outside the normal ties of kinship, fosterage and affinity. Legally he was without protection, and he says that he was on one occasion beaten, robbed of all he had, and put in chains, perhaps awaiting execution.[32] Murchiú's life of Saint Patrick contains a supposed prophecy by the druids which gives an impression of how Patrick and other Christian missionaries were seen by those hostile to them: Across the sea will come Adze-head,[33] crazed in the head, his cloak with hole for the head, his stick bent in the head. He will chant impieties from a table in the front of his house; all his people will answer: "so be it, so be it."[34] The second piece of evidence that comes from Patrick's life is the Letter to Coroticus or Letter to the Soldiers of Coroticus, written after a first remonstrance was received with ridicule and insult. In this, St. Patrick writes[35] an open letter announcing that he has excommunicated Coroticus because he had taken some of St. Patrick's converts into slavery while raiding in Ireland. The letter describes the followers of Coroticus as "fellow citizens of the devils" and "associates of the Scots [of Dalriada and later Argyll] and Apostate Picts".[36] Based largely on an eighth century gloss, Coroticus is taken to be King Ceretic of Alt Clut.[37] Thompson however proposed that based on the evidence it is more likely that Coroticus was a British Roman living in Ireland.[38] It has been suggested that it was the sending of this letter which provoked the trial which Patrick mentions in the Confession.[39] Death According to the latest reconstruction of the old Irish annals, Patrick died in AD 460 on March 17, a date accepted by some modern historians.[40] Prior to the 1940s it was believed without doubt that he died in 420 and thus had lived in the first half of the fifth century.[41] A lecture entitled "The Two Patricks", published in 1942 by T. F. O'Rahilly, caused enormous controversy by proposing that there had been two "Patricks", Palladius and Patrick, and that what we now know of St. Patrick was in fact in part a conscious effort to blend the two into one hagiographic personality. Decades of contention eventually ended with most historians now asserting that Patrick was indeed most likely to have been active in the latter half of the fifth century.[42] While Patrick's own writings contain no dates, they do contain information which can be used to date them. Patrick's quotations from the Acts of the Apostles follow the Vulgate, strongly suggesting that his ecclesiastical conversion did not take place before the early fifth century. Patrick also refers to the Franks as being pagans. Their conversion is dated to the period 496–508.[43] There is plentiful evidence for a medieval tradition that Patrick had died in 493. An addition to the Annals of Ulster states that in the year 553 (approximately two hundred and fifty years before the addition was made): 38 Saint Patrick 39 I have found this in the Book of Cuanu: The relics of Patrick were placed sixty years after his death in a shrine by Colum Cille. Three splendid halidoms were found in the burial-place: his goblet, the Angel's Gospel, and the Bell of the Testament. This is how the angel distributed the halidoms: the goblet to Dún, the Bell of the Testament to Ard Macha, and the Angel's Gospel to Colum Cille himself. The reason it is called the Angel's Gospel is that Colum Cille received it from the hand of the angel.[44] The placing of this event in the year 553 indicate a tradition that Patrick's death was 493, or at least in the early years of that decade, and the Annals of Ulster report under 493: Patrick, arch-apostle, or archbishop and apostle of the Irish, rested on the 16th of the Kalends of April in the 120th year of his age, in the 60th year after he had come to Ireland to baptise the Irish. This tradition is also seen in an annalistic reference to the death of a saint termed Patrick's disciple, Mochta, who is said to have died in 535.[45] The reputed burial place of St. Patrick in Downpatrick St. Patrick is said to be buried at Down Cathedral in Downpatrick, County Down, alongside St. Brigid and St. Columba, although this has never been proven. The Battle for the Body of St. Patrick demonstrates the importance of both him as a spiritual leader, and of his body as an object of veneration, in early Christian Ireland. Saint Patrick Visitor Centre is a modern exhibition complex located in Downpatrick and is a permanent interpretative exhibition centre featuring interactive displays on the life and story of Saint Patrick. It provides the only permanent exhibition centre in the world devoted to Saint Patrick.[46] Seventh-century writings An early document which is silent concerning Patrick is the letter of Columbanus to Pope Boniface IV of about 613. Columbanus writes that Ireland's Christianity "was first handed to us by you, the successors of the holy apostles", apparently referring to Palladius only, and ignoring Patrick.[47] Writing on the Easter controversy in 632 or 633, Cummian—it is uncertain whether this is the Cummian associated with Clonfert or Cumméne of Iona—does refer to Patrick, calling him our papa, that is pope or primate.[48] Two works by late seventh-century hagiographers of Patrick have survived. These are the writings of Tírechán, and Vita sancti Patricii of Muirchu moccu Machtheni.[49] Both writers relied upon an earlier work, now lost, the Book of Ultán.[50] This Ultán, probably the same person as Ultan of Ardbraccan, was Tírechán's foster-father. His obituary is given in the Annals of Ulster under the year 657.[51] These works thus date from a century and a half after Patrick's death. Tírechán writes "I found four names for Patrick written in the book of Ultán, bishop of the tribe of Conchobar: holy Magonus (that is, "famous"); Succetus (that is, the god of war); Patricius (that is, father of the citizens); Cothirtiacus (because he served four houses of druids)."[52] Muirchu records much the same information, adding that "[h]is mother was named Concessa."[53] The name Cothirtiacus, however, is simply the Latinized form of Old Irish Cothraige, which is the Q-Celtic form of Latin Patricius.[54] The Patrick portrayed by Tírechán and Muirchu is a martial figure, who contests with druids, overthrows pagan idols, and curses kings and kingdoms.[55] On occasion, their accounts contradict Patrick's own writings: Tírechán states that Patrick accepted gifts from female converts although Patrick himself flatly denies this. However, the emphasis Tírechán and Muirchu placed on female converts, and in particular royal and noble women who became nuns, is thought to be a genuine insight into Patrick's work of conversion. Patrick also worked with the unfree and Saint Patrick the poor, encouraging them to vows of monastic chastity. Tírechán's account suggests that many early Patrician churches were combined with nunneries founded by Patrick's noble female converts.[56] The martial Patrick found in Tírechán and Muirchu, and in later accounts, echoes similar figures found during the conversion of the Roman Empire to Christianity. It may be doubted whether such accounts are an accurate representation of Patrick's time, although such violent events may well have occurred as Christians gained in strength and numbers.[57] Much of the detail supplied by Tírechán and Muirchu, in particular the churches established by Patrick, and the monasteries founded by his converts, may relate to the situation in the seventh century, when the churches which claimed ties to Patrick, and in particular Armagh, were expanding their influence throughout Ireland in competition with the church of Kildare. In the same period, Wilfred, Archbishop of York, claimed to speak, as metropolitan archbishop, "for all the northern part of Britain and of Ireland" at a council held in Rome in the time of Pope Agatho, thus claiming jurisdiction over the Irish church.[58] Other presumed early materials include the Irish annals, which contain records from the Chronicle of Ireland. These sources have conflated Palladius and Patrick.[59] Another early document is the so-called First Synod of Saint Patrick. This is a seventh-century document, once, but no longer, taken as to contain a 5th century original text. It apparently collects the results of several early synods, and represents an era when pagans were still a major force in Ireland. The introduction attributes it to Patrick, Auxilius, and Iserninus, a claim which "cannot be taken at face value."[60] In legend St. Patrick banishes all snakes from Ireland Pious legend credits St. Patrick with banishing snakes from the island,[61] chasing them into the sea after they attacked him during a 40-day fast he was undertaking on top of a hill.[62] This hagiographic theme draws on the mythography of the staff of Moses, messenger of Yahweh to gentile Egyptians. In 7:8–7:13 Exodus , Moses and Aaron use their staffs in their struggle with Pharaoh's sorcerers, the staffs of each side morphing into snakes. Aaron's snake-staff prevails.[63] However, all evidence suggests that post-glacial Ireland never had snakes, as on insular "Ireland, New Zealand, Iceland, Greenland and Antarctica...So far, no serpent has successfully migrated across the open ocean to a new terrestrial home" such as from Scotland at one point only eight miles from Ireland, where a few native species have lived, "the venomous adder, the grass snake, and the smooth snake", as National Geographic notes,[64] and although sea snake species separately exist.[62][65] "At no time has there ever been any suggestion of snakes in Ireland, so [there was] nothing for St. Patrick to banish", says naturalist Nigel Monaghan, keeper of natural history at the National Museum of Ireland in Dublin, who has searched extensively through Irish fossil collections and records.[62] The List of reptiles of Ireland has only one land reptile species native to Ireland; the viviparous or common lizard. The only biological candidate species for appearing like a native snake in Ireland is the slow worm, actually a legless lizard, a non-native species more recently found in The Burren region of County Clare as recorded since the early 1970s, as noted by the National Parks and Wildlife Service of Ireland, which suspects it was deliberately introduced in the 1960s. So far, the slow worm's territory in the wild has not spread beyond the Burren's limestone region which is rich in wildlife.[64] One suggestion, by fiction author Betty Rhodes, is that "snakes" referred to the serpent symbolism of the Druids[66] during that time and place, as evinced on coins minted in Gaul. Chris Weigant connects "big tattoos of snakes" on Druids' arms as "Irish schoolchildren are taught" with the way in which, in the legend of St. Patrick banishing snakes; the "story goes to the core of Patrick's sainthood and his core mission in Ireland."[67] 40 Saint Patrick 41 St. Patrick uses shamrock in an illustrative parable Legend (dating to 1726, according to the OED) also credits St. Patrick with teaching the Irish about the doctrine of the Holy Trinity by showing people the shamrock, a three-leafed plant, using it to illustrate the Christian teaching of three persons in one God.[68] For this reason, shamrocks are a central symbol for St Patrick’s Day. The shamrock had been seen as sacred in the pre-Christian days in Ireland. Due to its green color and overall shape, many viewed it as representing rebirth and eternal life. Three was a sacred number in the pagan religion and there were a number of "Triple Goddesses" in ancient Ireland, including Brigid, Ériu, and the Morrigan. The Shamrock St. Patrick's dead ash wood walking stick grows into a living tree Some Irish legends involve the Oilliphéist, the Caoránach, and the Copóg Phádraig. During his evangelising journey back to Ireland from his parent's home at Birdoswald, he is understood to have carried with him an ash wood walking stick or staff. He thrust this stick into the ground wherever he was evangelising and at the place now known as Aspatria (ash of Patrick) the message of the dogma took so long to get through to the people there that the stick had taken root by the time he was ready to move on. St. Patrick speaks with ancient Irish ancestors who were born long before his time The 12th century work Acallam na Senórach tells of Patrick being met by two ancient warriors, Caílte mac Rónáin and Oisín, during his evangelical travels. The two were once members of Fionn mac Cumhaill's warrior band the Fianna, and somehow survived to Patrick's time. Saint Patrick's Bell Saint Patrick The National Museum of Ireland in Dublin possesses a bell first mentioned, according to the Annals of Ulster, in the Book of Cuanu in the year 552. The bell was part of a collection of "relics of Patrick" removed from his tomb sixty years after his death by Colum Cille to be used as relics. The bell is described as "The Bell of the Testament", one of three relics of "precious minna" (extremely valuable items), of which the other two are described as Patrick's goblet and "The Angels Gospel". Colum Cille is described to have been under the direction of an "Angel" for whom he sent the goblet to Down, the bell to Armagh, and kept possession of the Angel's Gospel for himself. The name Angels Gospel is given to the book because it was supposed that Colum Cille received it from the angel's hand. A stir was caused in 1044 when two kings, in some dispute over the bell, went on spates of prisoner taking and cattle theft. The annals make one more apparent reference to the bell when chronicling a death, of 1356, "Solomon Ua Mellain, The Keeper of The Bell of the Testament, protector, rested in Christ." 42 The Shrine of St. Patrick's Bell The bell was encased in a "bell shrine", a distinctive Irish type of reliquary made for it, as an inscription records, by King Domnall Ua Lochlainn sometime between 1091 and 1105. The shrine is an important example of the final, Viking-influenced, style of Irish Celtic art, with intricate Urnes style decoration in gold and silver. The Gaelic inscription on the shrine also records the name of the maker "U INMAINEN" (which translates to "Noonan"), "who with his sons enriched/decorated it"; metalwork was often inscribed for remembrance. The bell itself is simple in design, hammered into shape with a small handle fixed to the top with rivets. Originally forged from iron, it has since been coated in bronze. The shrine is inscribed with three names, including King Domnall Ua Lochlainn's. The rear of the shrine, not intended to be seen, is decorated with crosses while the handle is decorated with, among other work, Celtic designs of birds. The bell is accredited with working a miracle in 1044 and having been coated in bronze to shield it from human eyes, for which it would be too holy. It measures 12.5 × 10 cm at the base, 12.8 × 4 cm at the shoulder, 16.5 cm from base to shoulder, 3.3 cm from shoulder to top of handle and weighs 1.7 kg.[69] St. Patrick and Irish Identity St. Patrick features in many stories in the Irish oral tradition and there are many customs connected with his feast day. The folklorist Jenny Butler[70] discusses how these traditions have been given new layers of meaning over time while also becoming tied to Irish identity both in Ireland and abroad. The symbolic resonance of the St. Patrick figure is complex and multifaceted, stretching from that of Christianity’s arrival in Ireland to an identity that encompasses everything Irish. In some portrayals, the saint is symbolically synonymous with the Christian religion itself. There is also evidence of a combination of indigenous religious traditions with that of Christianity, which places St Patrick in the wider framework of cultural hybridity. Popular religious expression has this characteristic feature of merging elements of culture. Later in time, the saint becomes associated specifically with Catholic Ireland and synonymously with Irish national identity. Subsequently, St. Patrick is a patriotic symbol along with the colour green and the shamrock. St. Patrick's Day celebrations include many traditions that are known to be relatively recent historically, but have endured through time because of their association either with religious or national identity. They have persisted in such a way that they have become stalwart traditions, viewed as the strongest "Irish traditions". Saint Patrick 43 Sainthood and modern remembrance March 17, popularly known as St. Patrick's Day, is believed to be his death date and is the date celebrated as his feast day.[71] The day became a feast day in the universal church due to the influence of the Waterford-born Franciscan scholar Luke Wadding, as a member of the commission for the reform of the Breviary[72] in the early part of the 17th century. For most of Christianity's first thousand years, canonisations were done on the diocesan or regional level. Relatively soon after the death of people considered very holy, the local Church affirmed that they could be liturgically celebrated as saints. As a result, St. Patrick has never been formally canonised by a Pope; nevertheless, various Christian churches declare that he is a Saint in Heaven (he is in the List of Saints). He is still widely venerated in Ireland and elsewhere today.[73] St. Patrick is honored with a feast day on the liturgical calendar of the Episcopal Church (USA) on March 17. St. Patrick is also venerated in the Orthodox Church, especially among English-speaking Orthodox Christians living in the United Kingdom and the Republic of Ireland and in North America.[74] There are Orthodox icons dedicated to him.[75] The neo-gothic St Patrick's Cathedral in New York City, as seen from Rockefeller Center. Places associated with Saint Patrick • Slemish, County Antrim and Killala Bay, County Mayo When captured by raiders, there are two theories as to where Patrick was enslaved. One theory is that he herded sheep in the countryside around Slemish. Another theory is that Patrick herded sheep near Killala Bay, at a place called Fochill. • Saul, County Down (from Irish: Sabhall Phádraig, meaning "Patrick's barn")[76] Slemish, County Antrim It is claimed that Patrick founded his first church in a barn at Saul, which was donated to him by a local chieftain called Dichu. It is also claimed that Patrick died at Saul or was brought there between his death and burial. Nearby, on the crest of Slieve Patrick, is a huge statue of Saint Patrick with bronze panels showing scenes from his life. • Hill of Slane, County Meath Muirchu moccu Machtheni, in his highly mythologized 7th century Life of Patrick, says that Patrick lit a Paschal fire on this hilltop in 433 CE in defiance of High King Laoire. The story says that the fire could not be doused by anyone but Patrick, and it was here that he explained the holy trinity using the shamrock. St Patrick's statue at Saul, County Down Saint Patrick 44 • Croagh Patrick, County Mayo (from Irish: Cruach Phádraig, meaning "Patrick's stack")[77] It is claimed that Patrick climbed this mountain and fasted on its summit for the forty days of Lent. Croagh Patrick draws thousands of pilgrims who make the trek to the top on the last Sunday in July. • Lough Derg, County Donegal (from Irish: Loch Dearg, meaning "red lake")[78] It is claimed that Patrick killed a large serpent on this lake and that its blood turned the water red (hence the name). Each August, pilgrims spend three days fasting and praying there on Station Island. St Patrick's Oratory at the top of Croaghpatrick, County Mayo • Armagh, County Armagh It is claimed that Patrick founded a church here and proclaimed it to be the most holy church in Ireland. Armagh is today the primary seat of both the Catholic and Protestant Churches in Ireland and both cathedrals in the town are named after Patrick. • Downpatrick, County Down (from Irish: Dún Pádraig, meaning "Patrick's stronghold")[79] It is claimed that Patrick was brought here after his death and buried in the grounds of Down Cathedral. Other places named after Saint Patrick include: Ardpatrick, County Limerick (from Irish: Ard Pádraig, meaning "high place of Patrick")[80] Patrickswell or Toberpatrick, County Limerick (from Irish: Tobar Phádraig, meaning "Patrick's well")[81] St Patrick's Chapel, Heysham St Patrick's Island, County Dublin Kilpatrick, near Dumbarton, Scotland from "Cill Phàdraig," Patrick's Church, a claimant to his birthplace St Patrick's Isle, off the Isle of Man Llanbadrig (church), Ynys Badrig (island), Porth Padrig (cove), Llyn Padrig (lake), and Rhosbadrig (heath) on the island of Anglesey in Wales • Templepatrick, County Antrim (from Irish: Teampall Phádraig, meaning "Patrick's church")[82] • St Patrick's Hill, Liverpool, on old maps of the town near to the former location of "St Patrick's Cross"[83] • • • • • • • In literature • Robert Southey wrote a ballad called Saint Patrick's Purgatory, based on popular legends surrounding the saint's name. • Stephen R. Lawhead wrote the fictional Patrick: Son of Ireland based on the life of the celebrated Saint.[84] • Parke Godwin wrote the fiction novel The Last Rainbow based on the life of Saint Patrick and incorporating elements of fantasy established in his earlier novel Firelord. • Dutch/Scottish singer Chris Anderson wrote a poem called "Saint Patrick's Lament", based on the Saint's remembrance festival Saint Patrick's Day. Saint Patrick References [1] "Roman Catholic Patron Saints Index" (http:/ / www. americancatholic. org/ Features/ Saints/ patrons. asp). . Retrieved 25 August 2006. [2] O'Rahilly, Thomas Francis (1942), The Two Patricks: A Lecture on the History of Christianity in Fifth-century Ireland (http:/ / books. google. com/ books?id=DW8sAAAAIAAJ), Dublin: Dublin Institute for Advanced Studies, pp. 43–44, [3] Ball, Martin J.; Fife, James (2002), The Celtic Languages, USA: Routledge, pp. 82–83, ISBN 0-415-28080-X [4] Old Irish is a Q-Celtic language, which means that the sound /p/ in other languages is converted to the sound /k/. [5] St Patrick in the Catholic Encyclopedia (1913). [6] Common Worship: Services and Prayers for the Church of England, The Calendar, p. 7 [7] Macthéni, Muirchú maccu; White, Newport John Davis (1920). St. Patrick, his writings and life (http:/ / books. google. com/ books?id=1OZlAAAAMAAJ& pg=PA31#v=onepage& q& f=false). New York: The Macmillan Company. pp. 31–51, 54–60. . [8] All About Saint Patrick's Day (http:/ / www. churchyear. net/ stpatrick. html) Church Year Retrieved 2011-02-20 [9] St. Patrick's Day (http:/ / www. history. com/ topics/ st-patricks-day) The History Channel Retrieved 2010-02-11 [10] O'Rahilly, The two Patricks, Dublin 1942 [11] De Paor, p. 79. [12] Byrne, pp. 78–79; De Paor, pp. 6–7 & 88–89; Duffy, pp. 16–17; Fletcher, p.300–306; Yorke, p. 112. [13] There may well have been Christian "Irish" people in Britain at this time; Goidelic-speaking people were found on both sides of the Irish Sea, with Irish being spoken from Cornwall to Argyll. The influence of the Kingdom of Dyfed may have been of particular importance. See Charles-Edwards, pp. 161–172; Dark, pp.188–190; Ó Cróinín, pp. 17–18; Thomas, pp. 297–300. [14] Duffy, pp. 16–17; Thomas, p. 305. [15] Charles-Edwards, pp. 184–187; Thomas, pp. 297–300; Yorke, pp. 112–114. [16] Charles-Edwards, pp. 233–240. [17] O'Rahilly (1942). The two Patricks. Dublin. [18] Both texts in original Latin, various translations and with images of all extant manuscript testimonies on the "Saint Patrick's Confessio HyperStack website" (http:/ / www. confessio. ie). Royal Irish Academy Dictionary of Medieval Latin from Celtic Sources. . Retrieved 2011-09-14. [19] De Paor glosses it as "[probably near] Carlisle" and Thomas argues at length for the areas of Birdoswald, twenty miles (32 km) east of Carlisle on Hadrian's Wall. There is a Roman town called Bannaventa in Northamptonshire, but this is likely too far from the sea. See De Paor, pp. 88 & 96; Thomas, pp. 310–314; Bury, p. 17. [20] MacNeill, Eoin (1926), "The Native Place of St. Patrick" (http:/ / www. archive. org/ details/ papersirishacad00macnuoft), Papers read for the Royal Irish Academy, Dublin: Hodges, Figgis, pp. 118–140, – MacNeill argues for an origin in South Wales, noting that the western coasts of southern Scotland and northern England held little to interest a raider seeking quick access to booty and numerous slaves, while the southern coast of Wales offered both. In addition, the region was home to Uí Liatháin and possibly also Déisi settlers during this time, so Irish raiders would have had the contacts to tell them precisely where to go in order to quickly obtain booty and capture slaves. MacNeill also suggests a possible home town based on naming similarities, but allows that the transcription errors in manuscripts make this little more than an educated guess. [21] The Catholic Encyclopedia states he was born in Kilpatrick, Scotland. "St. Patrick" (http:/ / www. newadvent. org/ cathen/ 11554a. htm). 5 October 2011. . [22] http:/ / www. webanswers. com/ social-sciences/ spiritual-religious/ who-is-saint-patrick-768a50 , http:/ / www. encyclopedia. com/ article-1G2-3407708528/ patrick-st. html and http:/ / www. wikipedia. org/ History_of_Cumbria [23] De Paor, p. 96. [24] "Confession of St. Patrick, Part 16" (http:/ / www. ccel. org/ ccel/ patrick/ confession. iv. html). Christian Classics Ethereal Library at Calvin College. . Retrieved 2010-03-11. [25] "Confession of St. Patrick, Part 17" (http:/ / www. ccel. org/ ccel/ patrick/ confession. v. html). Christian Classics Ethereal Library at Calvin College. . Retrieved 2010-03-11. [26] De Paor, pp. 99–100; Charles-Edwards, p. 229. [27] De Paor, p. 100. De Paor glosses Foclut as "west of Killala Bay, in County Mayo", but it appears that the location of Fochoill (Foclut or Voclut) is still a matter of debate. See Charles-Edwards, p. 215. [28] Hood p. 4 [29] Thomas, pp. 337–341; De Paor, pp. 104–107; Charles-Edwards, pp. 217–219. [30] "Confession of St. Patrick, Part 50" (http:/ / www. ccel. org/ ccel/ patrick/ confession. x. html). Christian Classics Ethereal Library at Calvin College. . Retrieved 2010-03-11. [31] Charles-Edwards, pp. 219–225; Thomas, pp. 337–341; De Paor, pp. 104–107. [32] De Paor, p. 107; Charles-Edwards, p. 221–222. [33] This is presumed to refer to St. Patrick's tonsure. [34] After Ó Cróinín, p.32; De Paor, p. 180. See also Ó Cróinín, pp. 30–33. [35] "Letter To Coroticus, by Saint St. Patrick" (http:/ / www. yale. edu/ glc/ archive/ 1166. htm). Gilder Lehrman Center at Yale University. . Retrieved 2010-03-11. 45 Saint Patrick [36] Todd, James Henthorn (1863), "The Epistle on Coroticus" (http:/ / books. google. com/ books?id=um44AAAAMAAJ& pg=PA383), St. Patrick, Apostle of Ireland, Dublin: Hodges, Smith, & Co. (published 1864), pp. 383–385, [37] De Paor, pp. 109–113; Charles-Edwards, pp. 226–230. [38] Thompson, E. A.; G. B. Caird, Henry Chadwick (ed.) (1980). "St. Patrick and Coroticus". The Journal of Theological Studies 31: 12-27. [39] Thomas, pp. 339 – 343. [40] See Dumville, pp. 116–12; Wood, p. 45 n. 5. [41] Byrne, pp. 78–82; the notes following Tírechán's hagiography in the Book of Armagh state that Palladius "was also called Patrick, while other sources have vague mentions of 'two Patricks'", Byrne, p.78. See De Paor, pp. 203–206, for the notes referred to. [42] Why did St. Patrick Become a Saint (http:/ / www. whyguides. com/ why-did-st-patrick-become-a-saint. html) Why Guides Retrieved 2011-02-20 [43] Stancliffe. [44] De Paor, p. 122. [45] De Paor, p. 121. [46] About Us (http:/ / www. saintpatrickcentre. com/ index. php) The Saint Patrick Centre Retrieved 2011-02-20 [47] De Paor, pp. 141–143; Charles-Edwards, p. 182–183. Bede writing a century later, refers to Palladius only. [48] De Paor, pp 151–153; Charles-Edwards, p. 182–183. [49] Both texts in original Latin and English translations and images of the Book of Armagh manuscript copy on the "Saint Patrick's Confessio HyperStack website" (http:/ / www. confessio. ie). . Retrieved 2011-09-14. [50] Aideen O'Leary, "An Irish Apocryphal Apostle: Muirchú's Portrayal of Saint Patrick" The Harvard Theological Review 89.3 (July 1996), pp. 287–301, traces Muichù's sources and his explicit parallels of Patrick with Moses, the bringer of rechte Litre, the "letter of the Law"; the adversary, King Lóegaire, takes the role of Pharaoh. [51] Annals of Ulster, AU 657.1: "Obitus...Ultán moccu Conchobair." [52] De Paor, p. 154. [53] De Paor, pp. 175 & 177. [54] White, Newport J. D. (1920), St. Patrick, His Writings and Life (http:/ / books. google. com/ books?id=1OZlAAAAMAAJ& printsec=frontcover), New York: The Macmillan Co, p. 110, [55] Their works are found in De Paor, pp. 154–174 & 175–197 respectively. [56] Charles-Edwards, pp. 224–226. [57] Ó Cróinín, pp. 30–33. Ramsay MacMullen's Christianizing the Roman Empire (Yale University Press, 1984) examines the better-recorded mechanics of conversion in the Empire, and forms the basis of Ó Cróinín's conclusions. [58] Charles-Edwards, pp. 416–417 & 429–440. [59] The relevant annals are reprinted in De Paor, pp. 117–130. [60] De Paor's conclusions at p. 135, the document itself is given at pp. 135–138. [61] Robinson, William Erigena. New Haven Hibernian Provident Society. St. Patrick and the Irish: an oration, before the Hibernian Provident Society, of New Haven, March 17, 1842. pg 8. (http:/ / books. google. com/ books?id=-TcNAAAAYAAJ& pg=PA8& dq=saint+ patrick+ snakes& hl=en& ei=DrxcTMrkL4KB8ga6oJzVAg& sa=X& oi=book_result& ct=result& resnum=2& ved=0CDAQ6AEwAQ#v=onepage& q=saint patrick snakes& f=false) [62] "Snakeless in Ireland: Blame Ice Age, Not St. Patrick - National Geographic News" (http:/ / news. nationalgeographic. com/ news/ 2008/ 03/ 080313-snakes-ireland. html). . Retrieved 17 March 2011. [63] Hassig, Debra, The mark of the beast: the medieval bestiary in art, life, and literature (Taylor & Francis, 1999) [64] "Snakeless in Ireland: Blame Ice Age, Not St. Patrick - National Geographic News" (http:/ / news. nationalgeographic. com/ news/ 2008/ 03/ 080313-snakes-ireland_2. html). . Retrieved 17 March 2011. [65] "Why Ireland Has No Snakes - National Zoo" (http:/ / nationalzoo. si. edu/ Animals/ ReptilesAmphibians/ NewsEvents/ irelandsnakes. cfm). . Retrieved 25 August 2006, 17 March 2011. [66] Keeper of the Celtic Secrets (http:/ / books. google. com/ books?id=7A0H9bgBJbIC& pg=PA94& lpg=PA94& dq=st. + patrick+ snakes+ symbol+ of+ druids& source=bl& ots=5EaVklnYrs& sig=OCz3kgoE1190-SSyw8ZiNTJQpqY& hl=en& ei=ktxhTZvvMpTksQPGusG6CA& sa=X& oi=book_result& ct=result& resnum=4& ved=0CDUQ6AEwAzgU#v=onepage& q=st. patrick snakes symbol of druids& f=falseof) Google Books Retrieved 2011-02-20 [67] Weigant, Chris, "Saint Patrick and the Snakes," (Huffington Post, March 17, 2010) (http:/ / www. huffingtonpost. com/ chris-weigant/ saint-patrick-and-the-sna_b_503252. html) [68] St. Patrick's Day Facts: Snakes, a Slave, and a Saint (http:/ / news. nationalgeographic. com/ news/ 2009/ 03/ 090316-st-patricks-day-facts. html) National Geographic Retrieved 2011-02-10 [69] The Bellshrine of St. Patrick (http:/ / clanmaclochlainn. com/ bell. htm), Clan McLaughlan website [70] Butler, Jenny (2012), "St. Patrick, Folklore and Irish National Identity" 84-101 in Heimo, Anne; Hovi, Tuomas; Vasenkari, Maria, ed. Saint Urho - Pyhä Urho - From Fakelore To Folklore, University of Turku: Finland. ISBN 978-951-29-4897-0 [71] Great Synaxaristes: (Greek) Ὁ Ἅγιος Πατρίκιος Ἀπόστολος τῆς Ἰρλανδίας (http:/ / www. synaxarion. gr/ gr/ sid/ 2959/ sxsaintinfo. aspx). 17 Μαρτίου. ΜΕΓΑΣ ΣΥΝΑΞΑΡΙΣΤΗΣ. [72] "The Catholic Encyclopedia: Luke Wadding" (http:/ / www. newadvent. org/ cathen/ 15521d. htm). . Retrieved 15 February 2007. 46 Saint Patrick [73] "Ask a Franciscan: Saints Come From All Nations - March 2001 Issue of St. Anthony Messenger Magazine Online" (http:/ / www. americancatholic. org/ Messenger/ Mar2001/ Wiseman. asp#F4). . Retrieved 25 August 2006. [74] "St Patrick the Bishop of Armagh and Enlightener of Ireland" (http:/ / ocafs. oca. org/ FeastSaintsViewer. asp?SID=4& ID=1& FSID=100821). . Retrieved 11 November 2007. [75] "Icon of St. Patrick" (http:/ / www. orthodoxengland. org. uk/ patrick. htm). . Retrieved 17 March 2008. [76] Placenames NI (http:/ / www. placenamesni. org/ resultsdetail. phtml?entry=12654) [77] Placenames Database of Ireland: Croaghpatrick (http:/ / www. logainm. ie/ 114135. aspx) [78] Placenames Database of Ireland: Lough Derg (http:/ / www. logainm. ie/ 111239. aspx) [79] Placenames Database of Ireland: Downpatrick (http:/ / www. logainm. ie/ 120017. aspx) [80] Placenames Database of Ireland: Ardpatrick (http:/ / www. logainm. ie/ 30775. aspx) [81] Placenames Database of Ireland: Patrickswell (http:/ / www. logainm. ie/ 123643. aspx) [82] Placenames Database of Ireland: Templepatrick (http:/ / www. logainm. ie/ 61731. aspx) [83] Saint Patrick's Cross Liverpool (http:/ / saintpatrickscrossliverpool. webs. com/ ) [84] "Patrick: Son of Ireland | Books" (http:/ / www. stephenlawhead. com/ books/ patrick. shtml). StephenLawhead.com. 2007-08-23. . Retrieved 2009-10-04. Further reading • Brown, Peter (2003), The rise of Western Christendom : triumph and diversity, A.D. 200-1000 (2nd ed.), Oxford: Blackwell, ISBN 0-631-22138-7 • Bury, John Bagnell (1905), Life of St. Patrick and his Place in History, London • Byrne, Francis J. (1973), Irish Kings and High-Kings., London: Batsford, ISBN 0-7134-5882-8 • Cahill, Thomas (1995), How the Irish Saved Civilization, New York: Doubleday, ISBN 0-385-41849-3 • Charles-Edwards, T. M. (2000), Early Christian Ireland, Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, ISBN 0-521-36395-0 • Dark, Ken (2000), Britain and the end of the Roman Empire, Stroud: Tempus, ISBN 0-7524-2532-3 • De Paor, Liam (1993), Saint Patrick's World: The Christian Culture of Ireland's Apostolic Age, Dublin: Four Courts Press, ISBN 1-85182-144-9 • Duffy, Seán,, ed. (1997), Atlas of Irish History, Dublin: Gill and Macmillan, ISBN 0-7171-3093-2 • Dumville, David (1994), "The Death date of St. Patrick"", in Howlett, David, The Book of Letters of Saint Patrick the Bishop., Dublin: Four Courts Press, ISBN 1-85182-136-8 • Fletcher, Richard (1997), The Conversion of Europe: From Paganism to Christianity 371–1386 AD., London: Harper Collins, ISBN 0-00-686302-7 • Hood, A. B. E (1978), St. Patrick: his Writings, and Muirchú's Life, London and Chichester: Phillimore, ISBN 0-85033-299-0 • Hughes, Kathleen (1972), Early Christian Ireland: Introduction to the Sources, London: Hodder & Stoughton, ISBN 0-340-16145-0 • Iannello, Fausto (2008), "Note storiche sull’Epistola ad Milites Corotici di San Patrizio", Atti della Accademia Peloritana dei Pericolanti, classe di Lettere, Filosofia e Belle Arti 84: 275–285 • Moran, Patrick Francis Cardinal (1913). "St. Patrick". Catholic Encyclopedia. New York: Robert Appleton Company. • McCaffrey, Carmel (2003), In Search of Ancient Ireland, Chicago: Ivan R Dee, ISBN 978-1-56663-525-7 • MacQuarrie, Alan (1997), The Saints of Scotland: Essays in Scottish Church History AD 450–1093, Edinburgh: John Donald, ISBN 0-85976-446-X • Ó Cróinín, Dáibhí (1995), Early Medieval Ireland: 400–1200, London: Longman, ISBN 0-582-01565-0 • O'Loughlin, Thomas (1999), Saint Patrick: The Man and his Works, London: S.P.C.K. • O'Loughlin, Thomas (2000), Celtic Theology, London: Continuum • O'Loughlin, Thomas (2005), Discovering Saint Patrick, New York: Orbis • O'Loughlin, Thomas (2005), The Capitula of Muirchu's Vita Patricii: do they point to an underlying structure in the text?, , Analecta Bollandiana 123: 79–89 47 Saint Patrick • O'Loughlin, Thomas (2007), Nagy, J. F., ed., The myth of Insularity and nationality in Ireland, Dublin: Four Courts Press, pp. 132–140 • O'Rahilly, T. F. (1942), The Two Patricks: A Lecture on the History of Christianity in Fifth-Century Ireland, Dublin: Dublin Institute for Advanced Studies • Stancliffe, Claire (2004). "Patrick (fl. 5th cent.)" (http://www.oxforddnb.com/view/article/21562). Oxford Dictionary of National Biography. Oxford University Press. Retrieved 2007-02-17. • Thomas, Charles (1981), Christianity in Roman Britain to AD 500, London: Batsford, ISBN 0-7134-1442-1 • Thompson, E. A.; G. B. Caird, Henry Chadwick (ed.) (1980). "St. Patrick and Coroticus". The Journal of Theological Studies 31: 12-27. • Wood, Ian (2001), The Missionary Life: Saints and the Evangelisation of Europe 400-1050, London: Longman, ISBN 0-582-31213-2 • Yorke, Barbara (2006), The Conversion of Britain: Religion, Politics and Society in Britain c.600–800, London: Longman, ISBN 0-582-77292-3 External links • Writings of Saint Patrick (http://stpatricksday.com/history/stpatrick/) • The Most Ancient Lives of Saint Patrick (http://www.gutenberg.org/etext/18482), edited by James O'Leary, 1880, from Project Gutenberg. • Page devoted to the life of St. Patrick at Catholic.org (http://www.catholic.org/saints/saint.php?saint_id=89) • BBC: Religion & Ethics, Christianity: Saint Patrick (Incl. audio) (http://www.bbc.co.uk/religion/religions/ christianity/saints/patrick_1.shtml) • Opera Omnia by Migne Patristica Latina with analytical indexes (http://www.documentacatholicaomnia.eu/ 30_10_0387-0493-_Patricius,_Sanctus.html) • Oase Sankt Patrick (http://www.ottmar-mickmann.de) • CELT (http://www.ucc.ie/celt): Corpus of Electronic Texts at University College Cork includes Patrick's Confessio (http://www.ucc.ie/celt/published/L201060/index.html) and Epistola (http://www.ucc.ie/celt/ published/L201061/index.html), as well as various lives of Saint Patrick. • Saint Patrick's Confessio Hypertext Stack (http://www.confessio.ie) as published by the Royal Irish Academy Dictionary of Medieval Latin from Celtic Sources (DMLCS) freely providing digital scholarly editions of St Patrick's writings as well as translations and digital facsimiles of all extant manuscript copies. 48 Niall of the Nine Hostages Niall of the Nine Hostages Niall Noígíallach (Irish pronunciation: [ˈniːəl noɪˈɣiːələx], Old Irish "having nine hostages"),[1] or in English, Niall of the Nine Hostages, son of Eochaid Mugmedón, was an Irish king, the eponymous ancestor of the Uí Néill kindred who dominated Ireland from the 6th century to the 10th century. The rise of the Uí Néill dynasties and their conquests in Ulster and Leinster are not reliably recorded but have been the subject of considerable study and attempts to reconstruct them. Although generally supposed to be a historical personage, very little can confidently be said of Niall's life. The sources for the details of Niall's life are genealogies of historical kings, the "Roll of Kings" section of the Lebor Gabála Érenn, Irish annals such as the Annals of the Four Masters, chronicles such as Geoffrey Keating's Foras Feasa ar Éirinn, and legendary tales like "The Adventure of the Sons of Eochaid Mugmedon" and "The Death of Niall of the Nine Hostages". These sources date from long after Niall's time and their value as history is limited at best. Niall is placed in the traditional list of High Kings of Ireland. His reign dated to the late 4th and early 5th centuries. The Annals of the Four Masters dates his accession to 378 and death to 405.[2] The chronology of Keating's Foras Feasa ar Éirinn broadly agrees, dating his reign from 368-395, and associating his raiding activities in Britain with the kidnapping of Saint Patrick (ca. 390-461).[3] However, the traditional roll of kings and its chronology is now recognised as artificial. The High Kingship did not become a reality until the 9th century, and Niall's legendary status has been inflated in line with the political importance of the dynasty he founded. Based on Uí Néill genealogies and the dates given for his supposed sons and grandsons, modern historians believe he is likely to have lived some 50 years later than the traditional dates, dying circa 450.[4] Legendary biography Early life A legendary account of Niall's birth and early life is given in the 11th century saga Echtra mac nEchach Muimedóin ("The adventure of the sons of Eochaid Mugmedón"). In it, Eochaid Mugmedón, the High King of Ireland, has five sons, four, Brión, Ailill, Fiachrae and Fergus, by his first wife Mongfind, sister of the king of Munster, Crimthann mac Fidaig, and a fifth, Niall, by his second wife Cairenn Chasdub, daughter of Sachell Balb, king of the Saxons. While Cairenn is pregnant with Niall, the jealous Mongfind forces her to do heavy work, hoping to make her miscarry. She gives birth as she is drawing water, but out of fear of Mongfind, she leaves the child on the ground, exposed to the birds. The baby is rescued and brought up by a poet called Torna. When Niall grows up he returns to Tara and rescues his mother from her labour.[5] Although it is anachronistic for Niall's mother to have been a Saxon, O'Rahilly argues that the name Cairenn is derived from the Latin name Carina, and that it is plausible that she might have been a Romano-Briton.[6] Indeed, Keating describes her not as a Saxon but as the "daughter of the king of Britain".[3] Mongfind appears to have been a supernatural personage: the saga "The Death of Crimthann mac Fidaig" says the festival of Samhain was commonly called the "Festival of Mongfind", and prayers were offered to her on Samhain eve.[7] Accession Seeing Niall's popularity among the nobles, Mongfind demands that Eochaid name a successor, hoping it will be one of her sons. Eochaid gives the task to a druid, Sithchenn, who devises a contest between the brothers, shutting them in a burning forge, telling them to save what they can, and judging them based on which objects they choose to save. Niall, who emerges carrying an anvil, is deemed greater than Brión, with a sledgehammer, Fiachrae with bellows and a pail of beer, Ailill with a chest of weapons, and Fergus with a bundle of wood. Mongfind refuses to accept the 49 Niall of the Nine Hostages decision. Sithchenn takes the brothers to the smith, who makes them weapons, and sends them out hunting. Each brother in turn goes looking for water, and finds a well guarded by a hideous hag who demands a kiss in return for water. Fergus and Ailill refuse and return empty-handed. Fiachrae gives her a quick peck, but not enough to satisfy her. Only Niall kisses her properly, and she is revealed as a beautiful maiden, the Sovereignty of Ireland. She grants Niall not only water but her name, Alexi, and the kingship for many generations - twenty-six of his descendants will be High Kings of Ireland. Fiachrae is granted a minor royal line - two of his descendants, Nath Í and Ailill Molt, will be High Kings.[5] This "loathly lady" motif appears in myth and folklore throughout the world. Variations of this story are told of the earlier Irish high king Lugaid Loígde, in Arthurian legend — one of the most famous versions appears in both Geoffrey Chaucer's The Wife of Bath's Tale and the related Gawain romance, The Wedding of Sir Gawain and Dame Ragnell — and in John Gower's Middle English poem Confessio Amantis.[8] In another story, the succession is not settled when Eochaid dies, and Mongfind's brother Crimthann takes the high kingship. But while he is away on a tour of his lands in Scotland, Mongfind's sons seize Ireland. Crimthann returns to Ireland intending to give battle. Mongfind, purporting to make peace between her brother and her sons, holds a feast, at which she serves Crimthann a poisoned drink. Crimthann refuses to drink it unless she does too; they both drink, and both die. Niall succeeds to the High Kingship, and Brión becomes his second in command.[7] Another version has Mongfind try to poison Niall, but she takes the poison herself by mistake.[9] While Niall is high king, his brothers establish themselves as local kings. Brión rules the province of Connacht, but Fiachrae makes war against him. Brión defeats Fiachrae and hands him over as a prisoner to Niall, but Fiachrae's son Nath Í continues the war and eventually kills Brión. Niall releases Fiachrae, who becomes king of Connacht and Niall's right hand man. Fiachrae and Ailill then make war against Crimthann's son Eochaid, king of Munster. They defeat him and win great spoil, but Fiachrae is wounded in the battle and dies of his wounds shortly afterwards. The Munstermen renew the battle, capture Ailill and cut him to pieces, and war continues between Munster and Connacht for many years.[7] Death The Lebor Gabála Érenn says there was war between Niall and Énnae Cennsalach, king of Leinster, over the bórama or cow-tribute first imposed on Leinster by Tuathal Techtmar.[10] Énna's son Eochaid is named as Niall's killer in all sources, although the circumstances vary. All sources agree he died outside Ireland. The earliest version of the Lebor Gabála says Eochaid killed him on the English Channel, later versions adding that Niall was invading Brittany when this happened. Keating, quoting a Latin Life of Saint Patrick, says that Niall led Irish raids on Roman Britain, and in one of those raids Patrick and his sisters were abducted. Keating associates these raids with those mentioned by Gildas and Bede, and deduces that, since some Irish sources say Patrick was abducted from Brittany, that Niall's raids must have extended to continental Europe as well.[3] In the saga "The Death of Niall of the Nine Hostages", Eochaid's enmity with Niall begins when he is refused hospitality by Niall's poet, Laidcenn mac Bairchid. He makes war and destroys the poet's stronghold, killing his son Leat[11] (Keating has it that Laidchenn was a druid, and that Eochaid killed his son after he used defamatory language towards him).[3] Laidchenn responds by satirising Leinster so that no corn, grass or leaves grow there for a year. Then Niall makes war against Leinster, and peace is concluded on the condition that Eochaid is handed over. Niall chains Eochaid to a standing stone, and sends nine warriors to execute him, but Eochaid breaks his chain and kills all nine of them with it. He then kills Laidchenn by throwing a stone which lodges in his forehead. Niall exiles him to Scotland. The story then becomes confused. Niall makes war in Europe as far as the Alps, and the Romans send an ambassador to parlay with him. Abruptly, the tale then has Niall appearing before an assembly of Pictish bards in Scotland, where he is killed by an arrow shot by Eochaid from the other side of the valley. Keating has Eochaid shoot Niall from the opposite bank of the river Loire during his European campaign. His men carry his body 50 Niall of the Nine Hostages home, fighting seven battles on the way, and his foster-father Torna dies of grief. His body is said to have been buried at Ochann, now known as Faughan Hill at Jordanstown, a few miles west of Navan in County Meath.[9] He is succeeded by his nephew Nath Í. Byrne suggests that Niall's death took place during a raid on Roman Britain. Irish tradition had forgotten that the Romans once ruled Britain, and relocated his remembered confrontations with the Empire to continental Europe, with Alba, the ancient name for Britain, being confused with Elpa, the Alps, or being understood with its later meaning of Scotland.[4] A poem by the 11th century poet Cináed Ua Hartacáin in the Book of Leinster credits Niall with seven raids on Britain, on the last of which he was killed by Eochaid "above the surf of the Ictian Sea";[4][12] a poem attributed to the same poet in Lebor na hUidre credits him with going to the Alps seven times.[6] Family and descendants Keating credits Niall with two wives: Inne, daughter of Lugaid, who bore him one son, Fiachu; and Rignach, who bore him seven sons, Lóegaire, Éndae, Maine, Eógan, Conall Gulban, Conall Cremthainne and Coirpre.[3] These sons are the eponymous ancestors of the various Uí Néill dynasties: Eógan of the Cenél nEógain and Conall Gulban of the Cenél Conaill, making up the northern Uí Néill; Fiachu of the Cenél Fiachach dynasty, Lóegaire (the king who Saint Patrick is said to have converted) of the Cenél Lóegaire, Maine of the Uí Maine, Eógan of the Cenél nEógain, Conall Cremthainne of the Clann Cholmáin and the Síl nÁedo Sláine, and Coirpre of the Cenél Coirpri, making up the southern Uí Néill.[4] Famous descendants include Niall's great-great grandson Saint Columba, Saint Máel Ruba, the Kings of Ailech, the Kings of Tir Eogain, and the Kings of Tír Conaill.[13] In January 2006, geneticists at Trinity College, Dublin suggested that Niall may have been the most fecund male in Irish history. The findings of the study showed that within the north-west of Ireland as many as 21% of men (8% in the general male population) were concluded to have a common male-line ancestor who lived roughly 1,700 years ago. The geneticists estimated that there are about 2-3 million males alive today who descend in the male-line from Niall.[14] However, more recently some reservations have been expressed, as the subclade, which is defined by the presence of the marker R-M222, is found in a belt from Northern Ireland across southern Scotland and is not exclusively associated with the Uí Néill. It is now more commonly referred to as the Northwest Irish/Lowland Scots variety.[15] Origin of his epithet There are various versions of how Niall gained his epithet Noígíallach. The saga "The Death of Niall of the Nine Hostages" says that he received five hostages from the five provinces of Ireland (Ulster, Connacht, Leinster, Munster and Meath), and one each from Scotland, the Saxons, the Britons and the Franks.[11] Keating says that he received five from the five provinces of Ireland, and four from Scotland.[3] O'Rahilly suggests that the nine hostages were from the kingdom of the Airgialla (literally "hostage-givers"), a satellite state founded by the Ui Néill's conquests in Ulster, noting that the early Irish legal text Lebor na gCeart ("The Book of Rights") says that the only duty of the Airgialla to the King of Ireland was to give him nine hostages.[6] Family tree Bold indicates a High King of Ireland. 51 Niall of the Nine Hostages 52 Tuathal Teachtmhar Fedlimid Rechtmar Conn Cétchathach Art mac Cuinn Son Son Son Son Cormac mac Airt Cairbre Lifechair Fíacha Sroiptine Muiredach Tirech Mongfind Eochaid Mugmedon Cairenn Brion Fiachrae Ailill Niall Noigíallach Fergus Conall Gulban Endae Eogan Coirpre Lóegaire Muirdeach Cormac Caech Lughaid mac Loeguire Muirchertach mac Ercae Tuathal Máelgarb Maine Conall Cremthainne Fergus Cerrbel Fiachu Ardgal Diarmait mac Cerbaill References [1] noí, nine; gíall, a human pledge or hostage; the possessive suffix -ach (Dictionary of the Irish Language, Compact Edition, 1990, pp. 360, 479-480; Rudolf Thurneysen, A Grammar of Old Irish, 1946, p. 220). Also spelled Noí nGiallach, Naígiallach, Naoighiallach etc [2] Annals of the Four Masters M378-405 (http:/ / www. ucc. ie/ celt/ published/ T100005A/ text031. html) [3] Geoffrey Keating, Foras Feasa ar Éirinn 1.48 (http:/ / www. ucc. ie/ celt/ published/ T100054/ text058. html), 1.49 (http:/ / www. ucc. ie/ celt/ published/ T100054/ text059. html), 1.50 (http:/ / www. ucc. ie/ celt/ published/ T100054/ text060. html), 51 (http:/ / www. ucc. ie/ celt/ published/ T100054/ text061. html), 52 (http:/ / www. ucc. ie/ celt/ published/ T100054/ text062. html) [4] Francis J. Byrne, Irish Kings and High-Kings, Second Edition, Dublin: Four Courts Press, 2001, Chapter 5 [5] Tom Peete Cross & Clark Harris Slover (eds.), "The Adventures of the Sons of Eochaid Mugmedon" (http:/ / www. maryjones. us/ ctexts/ eochaid. html), Ancient Irish Tales, 1936, pp. 508-513 [6] T. F. O'Rahilly, Early Irish History and Mythology, 1946, Chapter 12 [7] "The Death of Crimthann son of Fidach" (http:/ / www. maryjones. us/ ctexts/ crimthann. html) (translator unknown) [8] Myles Dillon, The Cycles of the Kings, 1946, pp. 38-41 [9] James MacKillop, Dictionary of Celtic Mythology, 1998, pp. 305–306 [10] R. A. Stewart MacAlister (ed. & trans.), Lebor Gabála Érenn Part V, Irish Texts Society, 1956, p. 349 Niall of the Nine Hostages [11] Tom Peete Cross & Clark Harris Slover (eds.), "The Death of Niall of the Nine Hostages" (http:/ / www. maryjones. us/ ctexts/ niall. html), Ancient Irish Tales, 1936, pp. 514-517 [12] Edward Gwynn (ed. & trans), "Ochan" (http:/ / www. ucc. ie/ celt/ published/ T106500B/ text005. html), The Metrical Dindshenchas Vol 2, 1906, pp. 37-41 [13] Byrne 2001 [14] Battles, Jan (January 15, 2006), "High King Niall: the most fertile man in Ireland" (http:/ / www. timesonline. co. uk/ tol/ news/ world/ ireland/ article788652. ece), The Sunday Times (Times Newspapers Ltd.), , retrieved 2009-08-06 [15] R-M222 Haplogroup Project (http:/ / www. familytreedna. com/ public/ R1b1c7/ default. aspx) Further reading • • • • Bhreathnach, Edel (2005), The Kingship and Landscape of Tara, Dublin: Four Courts Press, ISBN 1-85182-954-7 Burke, Bernard (1976), Burke's Irish family records, London: Burke's Peerage, ISBN 0-85011-018-1 Byrne, Francis John (2001), Irish Kings and High-Kings, Dublin: Four Courts Press, ISBN 1-85182-196-1 Thomas Charles-Edwards, Charles-Edwards, Thomas (2007), Early Christian Ireland, Cambridge University Press, ISBN 0-521-03716-6 • Cross, Tom Peete and Clark Harris Slover (eds.), "The Adventures of the Sons of Eochaid Mugmedon" (http:// www.maryjones.us/ctexts/eochaid.html), in Ancient Irish Tales. Henry Holt and Company. 1936. Pages 508-13. • Ambassador Walter Curley, Vanishing Kingdoms: The Irish Chiefs and their Families. Dublin: Lilliput Press. 2004. • Myles Dillon, The Cycles of the Kings. Oxford. 1946. (Four Courts Press edition, 1995.) • Duffy, Seán (ed.), Medieval Ireland: An Encyclopedia. Routledge. 2005. • FitzPatrick, Elizabeth (2004), Royal Inauguration in Gaelic Ireland c. 1100-1600: A Cultural Landscape Study (http://books.google.com/?id=cscQwIzZr70C), Boydell Press, ISBN 1-84383-090-6 • Patrick Weston Joyce, A Social History of Ancient Ireland, Vol. I (http://books.google.com/ books?id=kVQTAAAAQAAJ) and A Social History of Ancient Ireland, Vol. II (http://books.google.com/ books?id=Iz0TAAAAQAAJ). Longmans, Green, and Co. 1903. • Geoffrey Keating, with David Comyn and Patrick S. Dinneen (trans.), The History of Ireland by Geoffrey Keating (http://celt.ucc.ie/published/T100054/index.html). 4 Vols. London: David Nutt for the Irish Texts Society. 1902-14. • Foster, Roy (ed.), The Oxford Illustrated History of Ireland. Oxford University Press. 2001. • Joynt, Maud (ed. & tr.), " Echtra Mac Echdach Mugmedóin (http://www.jstor.org/pss/30005640)", in Ériu 4 (1910): 91-111. • Koch, John T. (ed.), Celtic Culture: A Historical Encyclopedia. 5 volumes or single ebook. ABC-CLIO. 2006. • MacKillop, James, A Dictionary of Celtic Mythology. Oxford. 1998. • Edward MacLysaght, Irish Families: Their Names, Arms and Origins. Irish Academic Press. 4th edition, 1998. • Mac Niocaill, Gearóid, Ireland before the Vikings. Dublin: Gill and Macmillan. 1972. • Kuno Meyer (ed.), "The Laud Genealogies and Tribal Histories" (http://www.ucc.ie/celt/published/G105005/ index.html), in Zeitschrift für Celtische Philologie 8. Halle/Saale, Max Niemeyer. 1912. Pages 291-338. • Moore, Laoise T., Brian McEvoy, Eleanor Cape, Katharine Simms and Daniel G. Bradley, "A Y-Chromosome Signature of Hegemony in Gaelic Ireland." (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1380239/pdf/ AJHGv78p334.pdf) The American Journal of Human Genetics 78 (February 2006): 334-8. • Ó Canann, Tomás G., Book Review: Brian Lacey, Cenél Conaill and the Donegal Kingdoms, AD 500-800 (http:/ /www.rsai.ie/index.cfm?action=obj.display&obj_id=165), Royal Society of Antiquaries of Ireland • Donnchadh Ó Corráin (ed.), Genealogies from Rawlinson B 502 (http://www.ucc.ie/celt/published/G105003/ index.html). University College, Cork: Corpus of Electronic Texts. 1997. • Ó Corráin, Donnchadh, Ireland before the Normans. Dublin: Gill and Macmillan. 1972. 53 Niall of the Nine Hostages • Dáibhí Ó Cróinín (ed.), A New History of Ireland: Prehistoric and Early Ireland, Vol. 1. Oxford University Press. 2005. • John O'Donovan (scholar) (ed. and tr.), Annala Rioghachta Eireann. Annals of the Kingdom of Ireland by the Four Masters, from the Earliest Period to the Year 1616. 7 vols. Royal Irish Academy. Dublin. 1848-51. 2nd edition, 1856. • Standish Hayes O'Grady (ed. and tr.), "Death of Crimthann son of Fidach, and of Eochaidh Muighmedóin's three sons: Brian, Ailill, Fiachra", in Silva Gadelica (http://books.google.com/books?id=G-QGAAAAYAAJ) Williams and Norgate. 1892. Pages 373-8. (also available here (http://www.maryjones.us/ctexts/crimthann. html)) • O'Grady, Standish H. (ed. and tr.), "The Story of Eochaidh Muighmedóin's Sons", in Silva Gadelica (http:// books.google.com/books?id=G-QGAAAAYAAJ) Williams and Norgate. 1892. Pages 368-73. • John O'Hart, Irish Pedigrees (http://books.google.com/books?id=elNmAAAAMAAJ). Dublin. 5th edition, 1892. • T.F. O'Rahilly, Early Irish History and Mythology. Dublin Institute for Advanced Studies. 1946. • Richter, Michael, Medieval Ireland: The Enduring Tradition. Palgrave Macmillan. 1996. • Whitley Stokes (ed. and tr.), "Aided Chrimthaind Maic Fhidaig: The Death of Crimthann mac Fidaig", in Revue Celtique 24. 1903. Pages 172-189. • Stokes, Whitley (ed. and tr.), "Echtra Mac nEchach Muigmedóin: The Adventures of the Sons of Eochaid Muigmedóin", in Revue Celtique 24. 1903. Pages 190-207. • Welch, Robert (ed.) with Bruce Stewart, The Oxford Companion to Irish Literature. Oxford University Press. 1996. External links • eDIL: electronic Dictionary of the Irish Language (http://www.dil.ie/) • Aided Chrimthainn meic Fhidaig 7 Trí Mac Echach Muigmedóin (http://www.hastings.edu/academic/english/ Kings/Aided_Chrimthainn_meic_Fhidaig.htm) • Echtra Mac nEchach Muigmedóin (http://www.hastings.edu/academic/english/Kings/ Echtra_Mac_nEchach_Muigmedoin.htm) • Aided Néill Noígíallaig (http://www.hastings.edu/academic/english/Kings/Aided_Neill.html) • Orcuin Néill Noígíallaig (http://www.hastings.edu/academic/english/Kings/Orcuin_Neill.html) • Baile Chuinn Cétchathaigh (http://www.hastings.edu/academic/english/Kings/Baile_Chuinn.html) • Irish Kings (http://www.magoo.com/hugh/irishkings.html) • High Kings of Ireland (http://www.angelfire.com/ego/et_deo/irishkings.wps.htm) 54 Donegal Castle Donegal Castle Donegal Castle (Irish: Caisleán Dhún na nGall) is a castle situated in the centre of Donegal town, County Donegal in the northwest of Ireland. For most of the last two centuries, the majority of the buildings lay in ruins but the castle was almost fully restored in the late 1990s. The castle consists of a 15th century rectangular keep with a later Jacobean style wing. The complex is sited on a bend in the River Eske, near the mouth of Donegal Bay, and is surrounded by a 17th century boundary wall. There is a small gatehouse at its entrance Donegal Castle showing keep, on right, and Jacobean wing mirroring the design of the keep. Most of the stonework was constructed from locally sourced limestone with some sandstone. The castle was the stronghold of the O'Donnell clan, Lords of Tír Conaill and one of the most powerful Gaelic families in Ireland from the 5th to the 16th centuries. History Donegal (Irish, Dún na nGall), translates as Fort of the Foreigner possibly coming from a Viking fortress in the area destroyed in 1159. However, due to hundreds of years of development, no archaeological evidence of this early fortress has been found. The elder Sir Hugh O’Donnell, wealthy chief of the O’Donnell clan, built the castle in 1474. At the same time, he and his wife Nuala, built a Franciscan monastery further down the river. A local legend tells of a tunnel connecting the two but no evidence for this has been found. The castle was regarded as one of the finest Gaelic castles in Ireland. This was indicated by a report by the visiting English Viceroy, the Lord Deputy of Ireland, Sir Henry Sidney, in 1566, in a letter to William Cecil, 1st Baron Burghley, the Lord High Treasurer, describing it as "the largest and strongest fortress in all Ireland", adding[1]: "it is the greatest I ever saw in an Irishman's hands: and would appear to be in good keeping; one of the fairest situated in good soil and so nigh a portable water a boat of ten tonnes could come within ten yards of it" In 1607, after the Nine Years war the leaders of the O'Donnell clan left Ireland in the Flight of the Earls. In 1611 the castle and its lands were granted to an English Captain, Basil Brooke. The keep had been severely damaged by the departing O'Donnells to prevent the castle being used against the Gaelic clans but was quickly restored by its new owners. Brooke also added windows, a gable and a large manor-house wing to the keep, all in the Jacobean style. The Brooke family owned the castle for many generations until it fell into a ruinous state in the 18th century. In 1898 the then owner, the Earl of Arran, donated the castle to the Office of Public Works. 55 Donegal Castle 56 Restoration Recently the Office of Public Works has renovated the castle. The keep has had new roofing and flooring added, in keeping with the original styles and techniques used in the 15th and 17th centuries. The stonework has been restored and the manor wing has been partially roofed. The oak timbers used came from the Brookeborough Estate in County Fermanagh. The castle is now open to the public and often hosts events such as Gaelic cultural evenings. References Donegal Castle - approx. 1900Library of Congress collection [1] Calendar of State Papers for Ireland, 1566 External links • Donegal Castle (http://www.heritageireland.ie/en/North-West/DonegalCastle/) on the Heritage Ireland website Franciscan 57 Franciscan Order of Friars Minor Abbreviation OFM, Franciscan Motto Pax et Bonum Formation 1209 Type Catholic religious order Headquarters The Portiuncula, Assisi, Italy Minister General José Rodríguez Carballo Key people Francis of Assisi — founder Main organ General Curia Website OFM [1] Most Franciscans are members of Roman Catholic religious orders founded by Saint Francis of Assisi. Besides Roman Catholic communities, there are also Old Catholic, Anglican, Lutheran, ecumenical and Non-denominational Franciscan communities. The most prominent group is the Order of Friars Minor, commonly called simply the "Franciscans." They seek to follow most directly the manner of life that Saint Francis led. This Order is a mendicant religious order of men tracing their origin to Francis of Assisi. It comprises three separate groups, each considered a religious order in its own right. These are the Observants, most commonly simply called "Franciscan friars," the Capuchins, and the Conventual Franciscans. They all live according to a body of regulations known as "The Rule of St. Francis".[8] [2][3][4][5][6][7] Franciscan coat-of-arms Franciscan 58 The Order of Friars Minor and other Franciscan movements are disciples of Saint Francis of Assisi (1182-1226). Painting by El Greco (1541-1614). Name The official Latin name of the Orders of Friars Minor is the Ordo Fratrum Minorum.[9] St. Francis thus referred to his followers as "Fraticelli", meaning "Little Brothers". Franciscan brothers are informally called friars or the Minorites. The modern organization of the Friars Minor now comprises three separate branches: the 'Friars Minor' (OFM); the 'Friars Minor Conventual' (OFM Conv), and the 'Friars Minor Capuchin' (OFM Cap).[10] The women who comprise the "Second" Order of the movement are most commonly called Poor Clares in English-speaking countries. The order is called the "Order of St. Clare" (O.S.C.). The Third Order, or Third Order of Penance, has tens of thousands of members, as it includes both men and women, both living in religious communities under the traditional religious vows, as well as those who live regular lives in society, while trying to live the ideals of the movement in their daily lives. Beginning of the brotherhood Clare of Assisi (1194-1253), founder of the Poor Clares, in a painting by Simone Martini (1284-1344) in the Basilica of San Francesco d'Assisi. A sermon which Francis heard in 1209 on Mt 10:9 made such an impression on him that he decided to devote himself wholly to a life of apostolic poverty. Clad in a rough garment, barefoot, and, after the Evangelical precept, without staff or scrip, he began to preach repentance.[11] He was soon joined by a prominent fellow townsman, Bernardo di Quintavalle, who contributed all that he had to the work, and by other companions, who are said to have reached the number of eleven within a year. The brothers lived in the deserted lazar-house of Rivo Torto near Assisi; but they spent much of their time traveling through the Franciscan mountainous districts of Umbria, always cheerful and full of songs, yet making a deep impression on their hearers by their earnest exhortations. Their life was extremely ascetic, though such practises were apparently not prescribed by the first rule which Francis gave them (probably as early as 1209), which seems to have been nothing more than a collection of Scriptural passages emphasizing the duty of poverty. In spite of some similarities between this principle and some of the fundamental ideas of the followers of Peter Waldo, the brotherhood of Assisi succeeded in gaining the approval of Pope Innocent III.[12] What seems to have impressed first the Bishop of Assisi, Guido, then Cardinal Giovanni di San Paolo and finally Innocent himself, was their utter loyalty to the Church and the clergy. Innocent III was not only the Pope reigning during the life of St. Francis of Assisi, but he was also responsible for helping to construct the Church Francis was being called to rebuild. Innocent III and the Fourth Lateran Council helped maintain the church in Europe. Innocent probably saw in them a possible answer to his desire for an orthodox preaching force to counter heresy. Many legends have clustered around the decisive audience of Francis Regula bullata, the Rule confirmed by Honorius III with the Pope. The realistic account in Matthew Paris, according to which the Pope originally sent the shabby saint off to keep swine, and only recognized his real worth by his ready obedience, has, in spite of its improbability, a certain historical interest, since it shows the natural antipathy of the older Benedictine monasticism to the plebeian mendicant orders. The group was tonsured and Francis was ordained as a deacon, allowing him to read Gospels in the church.[13] Last years of Francis Francis had to suffer from the dissensions just alluded to and the transformation which they operated in the originally simple constitution of the brotherhood, making it a regular order under strict supervision from Rome. Exasperated by the demands of running a growing and fractious Order, Francis asked Pope Honorius III for help in 1219. He was assigned Cardinal Ugolino as protector of the order by the Pope. Francis resigned the day-to-day running of the Order into the hands of others but retained the power to shape the Order's legislation, writing a Rule in 1221 which he revised and had approved in 1223. At least after about 1223, the day-to-day running of the Order was in the hands of Brother Elias of Cortona, an able friar who would be elected as leader of the friars a few years after Francis' death (1226) but who aroused much opposition because of his autocratic style of leadership. He planned and built the Basilica of San Francesco d'Assisi in which Saint Francis is buried, a building including the friary Sacro Convento, which still today is the spiritual centre of the order. 59 Franciscan In the external successes of the brothers, as they were reported at the yearly general chapters, there was much to encourage Francis. Caesarius of Speyer, the first German provincial, a zealous advocate of the founder's strict principle of poverty, began in 1221 from Augsburg, with twenty-five companions, to win for the order the land watered by the Rhine and the Danube. In 1224 Agnellus of Pisa led a small group of friars to England. The branch of the order arriving in England became known as the greyfriars.[14] Beginning at Greyfriars at Canterbury, the ecclesiastical capital, they moved on to London, the political capital and Oxford, the intellectual capital. From these three bases the Franciscans swiftly expanded to embrace the principal towns of England. 60 "The Confirmation of the Franciscan Rule" by Domenico Ghirlandaio (1449-1494), Capella Sassetti, Florence. Development of the order after the death of Francis Dissensions during the life of Francis The controversy about issues of poverty, which extends through the first three centuries of Franciscan history, began in the lifetime of the founder. The ascetic brothers Matthew of Narni and Gregory of Naples, a nephew of Ugolino, the two vicars-general to whom Francis had entrusted the direction of the order during his absence, carried through at a chapter which they held certain stricter regulations in regard to fasting and the reception of alms, which really departed from the spirit of the original rule. It did not take Francis long, on his return, to suppress this insubordinate tendency; but he was less successful in regard to another of an opposite nature which soon came up. Elias of Cortona originated a movement for the increase of the worldly consideration of the order and the adaptation of its system to the plans of the hierarchy which conflicted with the original notions of the founder and helped to bring about the successive changes in the rule already described. Francis was not alone in opposition to this lax and secularizing tendency. On the contrary, the party which clung to his original views and after his death took his "Testament" for their guide, known as Observantists or Zelanti, was at least equal in numbers and activity to the followers of Elias. The conflict between the two lasted many years, and the Zelanti won several notable victories, in spite of the favor shown to their opponents by the papal administration—until finally the reconciliation of the two points of view was seen to be impossible, and the order was actually split into halves. Franciscan Development to 1239 When the General Chapter could not agree on a common interpretation of the 1223 Rule it sent a delegation including St. Anthony of Padua to Pope Gregory IX for an authentic interpretation of this piece of papal legislation. The bull Quo elongati of Gregory IX declared that the Testament of St. Francis was not legally binding and offered an interpretation of poverty that would allow the order to continue to develop. The earliest leader of the strict party was rather Brother Leo, the witness of the ecstasies of Francis on Monte Alverno and the author of the Speculum perfectionis, a strong polemic against the laxer party. Next to him came John Parenti, the first successor of Francis in the headship of the order. In 1232 Elias succeeded him, and under him the order developed its ministries and presence in the towns Anthony of Padua (c1195-1231) with the Infant Christ, significantly. Many new houses were founded, especially in Italy, painting by Antonio de Pereda (c1611-1678) and in many of them special attention was paid to education. The somewhat earlier settlements of Franciscan teachers at the universities (in Paris, for example, where Alexander of Hales was teaching) continued to develop. Contributions toward the promotion of the order's work, and especially the building of the Basilica in Assisi, came in abundantly. Funds could only be accepted on behalf of the friars for determined, imminent, real necessities that could not be provided for from begging. Gregory IX, in Quo elongati, authorized agents of the order to have custody of such funds where they could not be spent immediately. Elias pursued with great severity the principal leaders of the opposition, and even Bernardo di Quintavalle, the founder's first disciple, was obliged to conceal himself for years in the forest of Monte Sefro. St. Clare of Assisi, whom St. Francis saw as a his "little daughter" and now considered as the foundress of the Poor Clares consistently backed Elias as faithfully reflecting the mind of St. Francis. 1239–1274 Elias had governed the order from the center, imposing his authority on the provinces (as had Francis). A reaction to this centralized government was led from the provinces of England and Germany. At the general chapter of 1239, held in Rome under the personal presidency of Gregory IX, Elias was deposed in favor of Albert of Pisa, the former provincial of England, a moderate Observantist. This chapter introduced General Statutes to govern the order and devolved power from the Minister General to the Ministers Provincial sitting in chapter. The next two Ministers General, Haymo of Faversham (1240–44) and A Franciscan Convent in Mafra in Portugal. Crescentius of Jesi (1244–47), consolidated this greater democracy in the Order but also led the order towards a greater clericalisation. The new Pope Innocent IV supported them in this. In a bull of November 14, 1245, this pope even sanctioned an extension of the system of financial agents, and allowed the funds to be used not simply for those things that were necessary for the friars but also for those that were useful. The Observantist party took a strong 61 Franciscan stand in opposition to this ruling, and carried on so successful an agitation against the lax General that in 1247, at a chapter held in Lyon, France—where Innocent IV was then residing—he was replaced by the strict Observantist John of Parma (1247–57) and the order refused to implement any provisions of Innocent IV that were laxer than those of Gregory IX. Elias, who had been excommunicated and taken under the protection of Frederick II, was now forced to give up all hope of recovering his power in the order. He died in 1253, after succeeding by recantation in obtaining the removal of his censures. Under John of Parma, who enjoyed the favor of Innocent IV and Pope Alexander IV, the influence of the order was notably increased, especially by the provisions of the latter pope in regard to the academic activity of the brothers. He not only sanctioned the theological institutes in Franciscan houses, but did all he could to support the friars in the Mendicant Controversy, when the secular Masters of the university of Paris and the Bishops of France combined to attack the Mendicant Orders. It was due to the action of Alexander's representatives, who were obliged to threaten the university authorities with excommunication, that the degree of doctor of theology was finally conceded to the Dominican Thomas Aquinas and the Franciscan Bonaventure (1257), who had previously been able to lecture only as licentiates. The Franciscan Gerard of Borgo San Donnino at this time issued a Joachimite tract and John of Parma was seen as favoring the condemned theology of Joachim of Fiore. To protect the order from its enemies John was forced to step down and recommended Bonaventure as his successor. Bonaventure saw the need to unify the order around a common ideology and both wrote a new life of the founder and collected the order's legislation into the Constitutions of Narbonne, so called because they were ratified by the Order at its chapter held at Narbonne, France, in 1260. In the chapter of Pisa three years later Bonaventure's Legenda maior was approved as the only biography of Francis and all previous biographies were ordered to be destroyed. Bonaventure ruled Bonaventure (1221-1274), painting by Claude (1257–74) in a moderate spirit, which is represented also by François, ca. 1650-1660. various works produced by the order in his time—especially by the Expositio regulae written by David of Augsburg soon after 1260. 1274–1300 The successor to Bonaventura, Jerome of Ascoli or Girolamo Masci (1274–79), (the future Pope Nicholas IV), and his successor, Bonagratia of Bologna (1279–85), also followed a middle course. Severe measures were taken against certain extreme Spirituals who, on the strength of the rumor that Pope Gregory X was intending at the Council of Lyon (1274–75) to force the mendicant orders to tolerate the possession of property, threatened both pope and council with the renunciation of allegiance. Attempts were made, however, to satisfy the reasonable demands of the Spiritual party, as in the bull Exiit qui seminat of Pope Nicholas III (1279), which pronounced the principle of complete poverty meritorious and holy, but interpreted it in the way of a somewhat sophistical distinction between possession and usufruct. The bull was received respectfully by Bonagratia and the next two generals, Arlotto of Prato (1285–87) and Matthew of Aqua Sparta (1287–89); but the Spiritual party under the leadership of the Bonaventuran pupil and apocalyptic Pierre Jean Olivi regarded its provisions for the dependence of the friars upon the Pope and the division between brothers occupied in manual labor and those employed on spiritual missions as a corruption of the fundamental principles of the order. They were not won over by the conciliatory attitude of the next general, Raymond Gaufredi (1289–96), and of the Franciscan Pope Nicholas IV (1288–92). The attempt made by the next pope, Pope Celestine V, an old friend of the order, to end the strife by uniting the Observantist party with his own order of hermits (see Celestines) was scarcely more successful. Only a part of the Spirituals joined the new order, 62 Franciscan 63 and the secession scarcely lasted beyond the reign of the hermit-pope. Pope Boniface VIII annulled Celestine's bull of foundation with his other acts, deposed the general Raymond Gaufredi, and appointed a man of laxer tendency, John de Murro, in his place. The Benedictine section of the Celestines was separated from the Franciscan section, and the latter was formally suppressed by Pope Boniface VIII in 1302. The leader of the Observantists, Olivi, who spent his last years in the Franciscan house at Narbonne and died there in 1298, had pronounced against the extremer "Spiritual" attitude, and given an exposition of the theory of poverty which was approved by the more moderate Observantists, and for a long time constituted their principle. Persecution Under Pope Clement V (1305–14) this party succeeded in exercising some influence on papal decisions. In 1309 Clement had a commission sit at Avignon for the purpose of reconciling the conflicting parties. Ubertino of Casale, the leader, after Olivi's death, of the stricter party, who was a member of the commission, induced the Council of Vienne to arrive at a decision in the main favoring his views, and the papal constitution Exivi de paradiso (1313) was on the whole conceived in the same sense. Clement's successor, Pope John XXII (1316–34), favored the laxer or conventual party. By the bull Quorundam exigit he modified several provisions of the constitution Exivi, and required the formal submission of the Spirituals. Some of them, encouraged by the strongly Observantist general Michael of Cesena, ventured to dispute the Pope's right so to deal with the provisions of his predecessor. Sixty-four of them were summoned to Avignon, and the most obstinate delivered over to the Inquisition, four of them being burned (1318). Shortly before this all the separate houses of the Observantists had been suppressed. Renewed controversy on the question of poverty A few years later a new controversy, this time theoretical, broke out on the question of poverty. In his 14 August 1279 bull Exiit qui seminat, Pope Nicholas III had confirmed the arrangement already established by Pope Gregory IX, by which all property given to the Franciscans was vested in the Holy See, which granted the friars the mere use of it. The bull declared that renunciation of ownership of all things "both individually but also in common, for God's sake, is meritorious and holy; Christ, also, showing the way of perfection, taught it by word and confirmed it by example, and the first founders of the Church militant, as they had drawn it from the fountainhead itself, distributed it through the channels of their teaching and life to those wishing to live perfectly".[15][16][17] Franciscan friary in Katowice, Poland Although Exiit qui seminat banned disputing about its contents, the decades that followed saw increasingly bitter disputes about the form of poverty to be observed by Franciscans, with the Spirituals (so called because associated with the Age of the Spirit that Joachim of Fiore had said would begin in 1260)[18] pitched against the Conventual Franciscans.[19] Pope Clement V's bull Exivi de Paradiso of 20 November 1312[20] failed to effect a compromise between the two factions.[18] Clement V's successor, Pope John XXII was determined to suppress what he considered to be the excesses of the Spirituals, who contended eagerly for the view that Christ and his apostles had possessed absolutely nothing, either separately or jointly, and who were citing Exiit qui seminat in support of their view.[21] In 1317, John XXII formally condemned the group of them known as the Fraticelli.[18] On 26 March 1322, he removed the ban on discussion of Nicholas III's bull[22][23] and commissioned experts to examine the idea of poverty based on belief that Christ and the apostles owned nothing. The experts disagreed among themselves, but the majority condemned the idea on the grounds that it would condemn the Church's right to have possessions.[18] The Franciscan chapter held in Perugia in May 1322 declared on the contrary: "To say or assert that Christ, in showing the way of perfection, and the Apostles, in following that way and setting an example to others who wished to lead Franciscan the perfect life, possessed nothing either severally or in common, either by right of ownership and dominium or by personal right, we corporately and unanimously declare to be not heretical, but true and catholic."[18] By the bull Ad conditorem canonum of 8 December 1322,[24] John XXII, declaring it ridiculous to pretend that every scrap of food given to the friars and eaten by them belonged to the pope, refused to accept ownership over the goods of the Franciscans in future and granted them exemption from the rule that absolutely forbade ownership of anything even in common, thus forcing them to accept ownership.[25] And on 12 November 1323 he issued the short bull Cum inter nonnullos,[26] which declared "erroneous and heretical" the doctrine that Christ and his apostles had no possessions whatever.[17][21][27] John XXII's actions thus demolished the fictitious structure that gave the appearance of absolute poverty to the life of the Franciscan friars.[28] Influential members of the order protested, such as the minister general Michael of Cesena, the English provincial William of Ockham and Bonagratia of Bergamo. In 1324, Louis the Bavarian sided with the Spirituals and accused the Pope of heresy. In reply to the argument of his opponents that Nicholas III's bull Exiit qui seminat was fixed and irrevocable, John XXII issued the bull "Quia quorundam" of 10 November 1324,[29] in which he declared that it cannot be inferred from the words of the 1279 bull that Christ and the apostles had nothing, adding: "Indeed, it can be inferred rather that the Gospel life lived by Christ and the Apostles did not exclude some possessions in common, since living 'without property' does not require that those living thus should have nothing in common." In 1328 Michael of Cesena was summoned to Avignon to explain the Order's intransigence in refusing the Pope's orders and its complicity with Louis of Bavaria. Michael was imprisoned in Avignon, together with Francesco d'Ascoli, Bonagratia and William of Ockham. In January of that year Louis of Bavaria entered Rome and had himself crowned emperor. Three months later, he declared John XXII deposed and installed the Spiritual Franciscan Pietro Rainalducci as Pope. The Franciscan chapter that opened in Bologna on 28 May reelected Michael of Cesena, who two days before had escaped with his companions from Avignon. But in August Louis the Bavarian and his pope had to flee Rome before an attack by Robert, King of Naples. Only a small part of the Franciscan Order joined the opponents of John XXII, and at a general chapter held in Paris in 1329 the majority of all the houses declared their submission to the Pope. With the bull "Quia vir reprobus" of 16 November 1329,[30] John XXII replied to Michael of Cesena's attacks on Ad conditorem canonum, Cum inter and Quia quorundam. In 1330 Antipope Nicholas V submitted, followed later by the ex-general Michael, and finally, just before his death, by Ockham.[18] Separate congregations Out of all these dissensions in the fourteenth century sprang a number of separate congregations, almost of sects. To say nothing of the heretical parties of the Beghards and Fraticelli, some of which developed within the order on both hermit and cenobitic principles, may here be mentioned: Clareni The Clareni or Clarenini, an association of hermits established on the river Clareno in the march of Ancona by Angelo da Clareno after the suppression of the Franciscan Celestines by Boniface VIII. It maintained the principles of Olivi, and, outside of Umbria, spread also in the kingdom of Naples, where Angelo died in 1337. Like several other smaller congregations, it was obliged in 1568 under Pope Pius V to unite with the general body of Observantists. 64 Franciscan Minorites of Narbonne As a separate congregation, this originated through the union of a number of houses which followed Olivi after 1308. It was limited to southwestern France and, its members being accused of the heresy of the Beghards, was suppressed by the Inquisition during the controversies under John XXII. Reform of Johannes de Vallibus This was founded in the hermitage of St. Bartholomew at Brugliano near Foligno in 1334. The congregation was suppressed by the Franciscan general chapter in 1354; reestablished in 1368 by Paolo de' Trinci of Foligno; confirmed by Gregory XI. in 1373, and spread rapidly from Central Italy to France, Spain, Hungary and elsewhere. Most of the Observantist houses joined this congregation by degrees, so that it became known simply as the "brothers of the regular Observance." It acquired the favor of the popes by its energetic opposition to the heretical Fraticelli, and was expressly recognized by the Council of Constance (1415). It was Franciscan convent at Lopud in Croatia allowed to have a special vicar-general of its own and legislate for its members without reference to the conventual part of the order. Through the work of such men as Bernardino of Siena, Giovanni da Capistrano, and Dietrich Coelde (b. 1435? at Munster; was a member of the Brethren of the Common Life, died December 11, 1515), it gained great prominence during the fifteenth century. By the end of the Middle Ages, the Observantists, with 1,400 houses, comprised nearly half of the entire order. Their influence brought about attempts at reform even among the Conventuals, including the quasi-Observantist brothers living under the rule of the Conventual ministers (Martinianists or "Observantes sub ministris"), such as the male Colletans, later led by Boniface de Ceva in his reform attempts principally in France and Germany; the reformed congregation founded in 1426 by the Spaniard Philip de Berbegal and distinguished by the special importance they attached to the little hood (cappuciola); the Neutri, a group of reformers originating about 1463 in Italy, who tried to take a middle ground between the Conventuals and Observantists, but refused to obey the heads of either, until they were compelled by the Pope to affiliate with the regular Observantists, or with those of the Common Life; the Caperolani, a congregation founded about 1470 in North Italy by Peter Caperolo, but dissolved again on the death of its founder in 1481; the Amadeists, founded by the noble Portuguese Amadeo, who entered the Franciscan order at Assisi in 1452, gathered around him a number of adherents to his fairly strict principles (numbering finally twenty-six houses) and, died in the odor of sanctity in 1482. Unification Projects for a union between the two main branches of the order were put forth not only by the Council of Constance but by several popes, without any positive result. By direction of Pope Martin V, John of Capistrano drew up statutes which were to serve as a basis for reunion, and they were actually accepted by a general chapter at Assisi in 1430; but the majority of the Conventual houses refused to agree to them, and they remained without effect. At Capistrano's request Eugenius IV put forth a bull (Ut sacra minorum, 1446) looking to the same result, but again nothing was accomplished. Equally unsuccessful were the attempts of the Franciscan Pope Sixtus IV, who bestowed a vast number of privileges on both the original mendicant orders, but by this very fact lost the favor of the Observantists and failed in his plans for reunion. Julius II succeeded in doing away with some of the smaller branches, but left the division of the two great parties untouched. This division was finally legalized by Leo X, after 65 Franciscan a general chapter held in Rome in 1517, in connection with the reform-movement of the Fifth Lateran Council, had once more declared the impossibility of reunion. The less strict principles of the Conventuals, permitting the possession of real estate and the enjoyment of fixed revenues, were recognized as tolerable, while the Observantists, in contrast to this usus moderatus, were held strictly to their own usus arctus or pauper. All of the groups that followed the Franciscan Rule literally were united to the Observantists and the right to elect the Minister General of the Order, together with the seal of the Order, was given to this united grouping. This grouping, since it adhered more closely to the rule of the founder, was allowed to claim a certain superiority over the Conventuals. The Observantist general (elected now for six years, not for life) inherited the title of "Minister-General of the Whole Order of St. Francis" and was granted the right to confirm the choice of a head for the Conventuals, who was known as "Master-General of the Friars Minor Conventual"—although this privilege never became practically operative. Modern times Distinguished Franciscans The Franciscan order boasts a number of distinguished members. From its first century can be cited the three great scholastics Alexander of Hales, Bonaventure, and John Duns Scotus, the "Doctor of Wonders" Roger Bacon, and the well-known mystic authors and popular preachers David of Augsburg and Berthold of Regensburg. During the Middle Ages noteworthy members included Nicholas of Lyra, the Biblical commentator Bernardino of Siena, preachers John of Capistrano, Oliver Maillard, and Michel Menot, and historians Luke Wadding and Antoine Pagi. In the field of Christian art, during the later Middle Ages, the Franciscan movement exercised considerable influence, especially Roger Bacon (c1214-1294), statue (19th century) in the in Italy. Several great painters of the thirteenth and fourteenth Oxford University Museum of Natural History. centuries, especially Cimabue and Giotto, who, though they were not friars, were spiritual sons of Francis in the wider sense, and the plastic masterpieces of the latter, as well as the architectural conceptions of both himself and his school, show the influence of Franciscan ideals. The Italian Gothic style, whose earliest important monument is the great convent church at Assisi (built 1228–53), was cultivated as a rule principally by members of the order or men under their influence. The early spiritual poetry of Italy was partially inspired by Francis himself, who was followed by Thomas of Celano, Bonaventure, and Jacopone da Todi. Through a tradition which held him to have been a member of the Franciscan Third Order, even Dante may be included within this artistic tradition (cf. especially Paradiso, xi. 50). Other famous members of the Franciscan family include Anthony of Padua, William of Occam, François Rabelais, Alexander of 66 Franciscan 67 Hales, Giovanni da Pian del Carpini, Pio of Pietrelcina, Maximilian Kolbe, Pasquale Sarullo, Mamerto Esquiú, Gabriele Allegra, Junipero Serra, Father Simpliciano of the Nativity, Mychal F. Judge, Fray Angelico Chavez, and Joseph of Cupertino. Poor Clares The Poor Clares comprise several orders of nuns in the Catholic Church. The Poor Clares were the second Franciscan order to be established by Saints Clare of Assisi and Francis of Assisi. Third Order The Third Order has its origins in the movement of the Penitents. These were people who desired to grow in holiness in their daily lives without joining a religious order. Seeing a need, St. Francis created the Brothers and Sisters of Penance. Eventually some members of the Third Order wanted to live in community and take vows. The Third Order split into the Third Order Regular and Third Order Secular (now known as the Secular Franciscan Order.) Bernardino of Siena (1380-1440), painted by Jacopo Bellini (c1400-c1470). Secular Franciscan Order During his lifetime, many married men and women asked St. Francis if they could embrace his style of life, but of course, due to their secular state, they were not able to enter into the First Order or into the Poor Clares. For this reason, he founded a Secular order to which lay and married men and women could belong and live according to the Gospel. Nowadays, this part of the Third Order is known as Secular Franciscan Order and is numerous and spread around the world. The original Rule, given by St. Francis in 1221, was slightly modified during the centuries to be adapted to the changing times, and now the last one was given by Pope Paul VI in 1978. Franciscan Third Order Regular Within a century of the death of St. Francis, members of the Third Order began to live in common, in an attempt to follow a more ascetical way of life. Blessed Angela of Foligno (+1309) was foremost among those who achieved great depths in their lives of prayer and service of the poor. Among the men, the Third Order Regular[31] is an international community of priests and brothers who desire to emphasize the works of mercy and on-going conversion. The community is also known as the Franciscan Friars, T.O.R., and was originally founded in 1447 by a papal decree that united several communities of hermits, following the Third Order Rule. They strive to "rebuild the Church" in areas of high school and college education, parish ministry, church renewal, social justice, campus ministry, hospital chaplaincies, foreign missions, and other ministries in places where the Church is needed.[32] Following the formal recognition of the members of religious tertiary communities, the following centuries saw a steady growth of such communities, across Europe. Initially, the women's Mary Frances Schervier (1819-1876) was a member of communities took a monastic form of life, either voluntarily or the Third Order of St. Francis. under pressure from ecclesiastical superiors. The great figure of this development was St. Hyacintha Mariscotti. As Europe entered the upheavals of the modern age, new communities arose, which were able to focus more exclusively on social service, especially during the immediate post-Napoleonic period. An example of this is the Blessed Mary Frances Schervier. This movement continued in North America, as various congregations arose from one coast to another, in answer to the needs of the large emigrant communities, flooding in the cities of the United States and Canada. Franciscans International Franciscans International[33] is a Non-governmental organization (NGO) with General Consultative status at the United Nations, uniting the voices of Franciscan brothers and sisters from around the world. It operates under the sponsorship of the Conference of the Franciscan Family (CFF) and serve all Franciscans and the global community by bringing grassroots Franciscans to the United Nations forums in New York and Geneva. It brings the spiritual and ethical values of the Franciscans to the United Nations and international organizations. Ecumenical, Non-Roman Catholic and Non-denominational Franciscans One of the results of the Oxford Movement in the Anglican Church during the 19th century was the re-establishment of religious orders, including some of Franciscan inspiration. The principal Anglican communities in the Franciscan tradition are the Community of St. Francis (women, founded 1905), the Poor Clares of Reparation (P.C.R.), the Society of Saint Francis (men, founded 1934), and the Community of St. Clare (women, enclosed). There is also a Third Order known as the Third Order Society of St Francis (T.S.S.F.). Another officially sanctioned Anglican order with a more contemplative focus is the order of the Little Brothers of Francis in the Anglican Church of Australia.[34] Two ecumenical Franciscan Orders within the Anglican heritage are the Order of Servant Franciscans (OSF)[35] and the Conventual Community of Saint Francis (CCSF). The members of the Order of Servant Franciscans (OSF) are 68 Franciscan 69 committed to "the process of becoming" ministers of Christ's message of reconciliation and love, as demonstrated by the holy lives of Saints Francis and Clare. The OSF is a dispersed third-order secular community of lay and ordained members from a variety of jurisdictions. A U.S.-founded order within the Anglican world communion is the Seattle-founded Order of Saint Francis [36] (OSF) an open, inclusive, and contemporary expression of an Anglican First Order of Friars. There is also an order of Clares in Seattle (Diocese of Olympia)The Little Sisters of St. Clare [37], where the OSF is officially headquartered. There is also a small Anglican order called The Company of Jesus charisms. [38] with both Franciscan and Benedictine There is a young Order of Ecumenical Franciscans that started in the United States.[39] There is another young order that started in Australia called The Ecumenical Franciscan Order [40] EFO, an open, inclusive and contemporary expression of modern Franciscanism, the order is open to both male and female members, they may be married or single and Members live either in Community or in society. There are also some small Franciscan communities within European Protestant and Old Catholic Churches, and The Saint Francis Ecumenical Society –[41] Ecumenical Franciscan Society from Eastern Europe (Lutheran, Catholic, Orthodox, Anglican and free Protestant members). There are some Franciscan orders in Lutheran Churches, including the Order of Lutheran Franciscans. The masculine branch of the Evangelical Sisterhood of Mary, the Evangelische Kanaan Franziskus-Bruderschaft (Kanaan Franciscan Brothers) follows a franciscan tradition. An order of Franciscans founded in the United Kingdom in 2004 Companions of Jesus non-denominational. [42] (CJ) is Visions and Stigmata The Stigmatisation of St. Francis diagnosis. Among the many Catholic orders, Franciscans have proportionally reported higher ratios of stigmata and have claimed proportionally higher ratios of visions of Jesus and Mary. Saint Francis of Assisi himself was one of the very first reported cases of stigmata, and perhaps the most famous stigmatic of modern times is Saint Padre Pio, a Capuchin, who also reported visions of Jesus and Mary. Pio's stigmata persisted for over fifty years and he was examined by numerous physicians in the 20th century, who confirmed the existence of the wounds, but none of whom could produce a medical explanation for the fact that his bleeding wounds would never get infected. According to Encyclopædia Britannica, his wounds healed once, but reappeared.[43] According to the Columbia Encyclopedia[44] some medical authorities who examined Padre Pio's wounds were inclined to believe that the stigmata were connected with nervous or cataleptic hysteria. According to Answers.com[45] the wounds were examined by Luigi Romanelli, chief physician of the City Hospital of Barletta, for about one year. Dr. Giorgio Festa, a private practitioner also examined them in 1920 and 1925. Professor Giuseppe Bastianelli, physician to Pope Benedict XV agreed that the wounds existed but made no other comment. Pathologist Dr. Amico Bignami of the University of Rome also observed the wounds, but made no Franciscan 70 Franciscan Custody of the Holy Land After an intense apostolic activity in Italy, in 1219 Francis went to Egypt with the Fifth Crusade, to announce the Gospel to the Saracens. He met with the Sultan Malek-al-Kamel, initiating a spirit of dialogue and understanding between Christianity and Islam. The Franciscan presence in the Holy Land started in 1217, when the province of Syria was established, with Brother Elias as Minister. By 1229, the friars had a small house near the fifth station of the Via Dolorosa. In 1272 the sultan Baibars allowed the Franciscans to settle in the Cenacle on Mount Sion. Later on, in 1309, they also settled in the Holy Sepulchre and in Bethlehem. In 1335 King Robert d'Angiò of Naples, and his wife, Sancia di Maiorca, bought the Cenacle and gave it to the Franciscans. Pope Clement VI, by the Bulls "Gratias agimus" and "Nuper charissimae" (1342), declared the Franciscans as the official custodians of the Holy Places in the name of the Catholic Church. The Franciscan Custody of the Holy Land is still in force today.[46] Contributions The Franciscans established the Studium Biblicum Franciscanum as an academic society based in Jerusalem and Hong Kong for the study of scripture. The Hong Kong branch founded by the Venerable Gabriele Allegra produced the first complete translation of the Catholic Bible in Chinese in 1968 after a 40 year effort.[47] The Studium Biblicum Translation is often considered the Chinese Bible among Catholics. The early efforts of another Franciscan, namely Giovanni di Monte Corvino, who had attempted a first translation of the Bible in Beijing in the 14th century provided the initial spark for Gabriele Allegra's 40 year undertaking, when at the age of 21 he happened to attend the 6th centenary celebration for Monte Corvino. Notes [1] http:/ / www. ofm. org Gabriele Allegra (1907-1976) of the Studium Biblicum Franciscanum. [2] http:/ / www. waymarking. com/ waymarks/ WM9HCK_Ordo_Fratrum_Minorum_Friars_Minor_San_Juan_Capistrano_California_USA Ordo Fratrum Minorum Coat of Arms [3] Escudo de la Orden franciscana (http:/ / frayrafaelnieto. wordpress. com/ 2011/ 01/ 20/ escudo-de-la-orden-franciscana/ ) [4] Las Florecillas en la pintura de José Benlliure (http:/ / www. sanantoniocolegio. com/ 58benlliure/ 00introduccion. php) [5] "al centro el escudo de la orden franciscana" (http:/ / www. consagradojesusdelperdon. es. tl/ Insignias-de-la-Hermandad. htm) [6] Escudo orden franciscana (http:/ / www. iaph. es/ sys/ productos/ PinturaMural/ Catalogo/ sanpedro3. html) [7] Escudo de la orden franciscana en la fachada del Convento de San Francisco de Alfaro (http:/ / commons. wikimedia. org/ wiki/ File:Alfaro_-_Convento_de_San_Francisco_17. jpg) [8] "The rule of the Franciscan Order" from the Medieval Sourcebook (http:/ / www. fordham. edu/ halsall/ source/ stfran-rule. html) [9] Paschal Robinson (1913). "Order of Friars Minor". Catholic Encyclopedia. New York: Robert Appleton Company. [10] Paschal Robinson (1913). "Franciscan Order". Catholic Encyclopedia. New York: Robert Appleton Company. [11] Paschal Robinson (1913). "St. Francis of Assisi". Catholic Encyclopedia. New York: Robert Appleton Company. [12] Chesterton(1924), pp. 107–108 [13] Galli(2002), pp. 74–80 [14] Greyfriars in England (http:/ / www. stpatrickswaterloo. org. uk/ greyfriars. html) [15] English translation 1; (http:/ / www. humanities. mq. edu. au/ Ockham/ wexiit. html) cf. English translation 2 (http:/ / www. franciscan-archive. org/ bullarium/ exiit-e. html) and another translation in Rosalind B. Brooke, The Image of St Francis (Cambridge University Press 2006 ISBN 978-0-521-78291-3), p. 98. (http:/ / www. google. co. uk/ search?tbm=bks& tbo=1& q=Rosalind+ B+ Brooke+ "renunciation+ of+ ownership"& btnG=) Franciscan [16] Tierney, p. 70 (http:/ / www. google. com/ search?tbm=bks& tbo=1& q=Brian+ Tierney+ "consisted+ in+ the+ exercise"& btnG=) [17] Klaus Schatz, Papal Primacy (Liturgical Press, Collegeville, Minnesota 1996 ISBN 978-0-8146-5522-1) pp. 117-118 (http:/ / www. google. com/ search?tbm=bks& tbo=1& q=Klaus+ Schatz+ "Olivi+ by+ no"& btnG=) [18] History of the Franciscan Movement (3) (http:/ / 198. 62. 75. 1/ www1/ ofm/ fra/ FRAht03. html) [19] Brooke, The Image of St Francis, p. 100 [20] English translation 1; (http:/ / www. humanities. mq. edu. au/ Ockham/ wexivi. html) English translation 2 (http:/ / www. franciscan-archive. org/ bullarium/ exivi-e. html) [21] Christopher Kleinhenz, Medieval Italy: An Encyclopedia (Routledge 2003 ISBN 978-0-415-93930-0), vol. 1, p. 373 (http:/ / www. google. com/ search?tbm=bks& tbo=1& q=Kleinhenz+ "conflicting+ acts"& btnG=) [22] Bull Quia nonnunquam (http:/ / www. humanities. mq. edu. au/ Ockham/ wqn. html) [23] Brooke, p. 100 [24] English translation (http:/ / www. humanities. mq. edu. au/ Ockham/ wadc. html) [25] Brooke, pp. 100-101 [26] English translation 1; (http:/ / www. humanities. mq. edu. au/ Ockham/ wcumint. html) English translation 2 (http:/ / www. franciscan-archive. org/ bullarium/ qinn-e. html) [27] Tierney, p. 181 (http:/ / www. google. com/ search?tbm=bks& tbo=1& q=Brian+ Tierney+ "judged+ heretical"& btnG=) [28] Brooke, p. 101 [29] English translation 1 (http:/ / www. humanities. mq. edu. au/ Ockham/ wqq. html) and English translation 2 (http:/ / www. franciscan-archive. org/ bullarium/ qquor-e. html) [30] English translation (http:/ / www. humanities. mq. edu. au/ Ockham/ wqvr. html) [31] Third Order Regular (http:/ / www. francescanitor. org/ ) [32] Franciscan Friars, TOR. "The Franciscan Orders" (http:/ / web. archive. org/ web/ 20070617120810/ http:/ / www. franciscanstor. org/ orders. htm). Archived from the original (http:/ / www. franciscanstor. org/ orders. htm) on 2007-06-17. . Retrieved 2007-07-10. [33] Franciscans International (http:/ / www. franciscansinternational. org/ index. php) [34] Little Brothers of Francis (http:/ / www. franciscanhermitage. org/ ) [35] Tifpecusa (http:/ / www. tifpecusa. faithweb. com) [36] http:/ / www. osffranciscans. com [37] http:/ / www. stclarelittlesisters. org/ [38] http:/ / companyofjesus. org/ [39] Order of Ecumenical Franciscans (http:/ / franciscans. com/ ) [40] http:/ / www. efo. org. au/ [41] The Order of Servant Franciscans (http:/ / www. tifpecusa. faithweb. com/ about_1. html) [42] http:/ / scjesus. co. uk [43] Britannica Online Encyclopedia, Padre Pio (http:/ / www. britannica. com/ ebc/ article-9375317) [44] stigmata. The Columbia Encyclopedia, Sixth Edition. 2001-07 (http:/ / www. bartleby. com/ 65/ st/ stigmata. html) [45] Padre Pio: Biography and Much More from Answers.com (http:/ / www. answers. com/ topic/ pio-padre) [46] Franciscan Custody of the Holy Land (http:/ / www. christusrex. org/ www1/ ofm/ cust/ TSmain. html) [47] http:/ / www. sbofmhk. org Studium Biblicum Franciscanum Hong Kong References Books • The Poor and the Perfect: The Rise of Learning in the Franciscan Order, 1209-1310 by Neslihan Senocak. (Cornell University Press; 2012) 280 pages; shows how Franciscans shifted away from an early emphasis on poverty and humility and instead emphasized educational roles • A History of the Franciscan Order: From Its Origins to the Year 1517 by John Richard Humpidge Moorman, Franciscan Institute Publications, 1988. ISBN 978-0-8199-0921-3 • Origins of the Franciscan Order by Cajetan Esser, Franciscan Institute Publications, 1970. ISBN 978-0-8199-0408-2 • The Leonine Union of the Order of Friars Minor by Maurice Carmody, Franciscan Institute Publications, 1994. ISBN 978-1-57659-084-3 • Friars Minor in China: 1294 - 1944, by Arnulf Camps and Pat McCloskey, Franciscan Institute Publications, 1996. ISBN 978-1-57659-002-7 71 Franciscan • In the Name of St. Francis: A History of the Friars Minor and Franciscanism until the Early Sixteenth Century, by Grado Giovanni Merlo, translated by Robert J. Karris and Raphael Bonanno, Franciscan Institute Publications, 2009. ISBN 978-1-57659-155-0 • The History of Franciscan Theology, by Kenan Osborne, Franciscan Institute Publications, 1994. ISBN 978-1-57659-032-1 • Friars Minor in Ireland from Their Arrival to 1400, by Francis Cotter, Franciscan Institute Publications, 1994. ISBN 978-1-57659-083-6 • The Franciscan Spirituals and the Capuchin Reform, by Thaddeus MacVicar, Franciscan Institute Publications, 1986. ISBN 978-1-57659-086-7 • Medieval Franciscan Houses, by John R. H. Moorman, Franciscan Institute Publications, 1983. ISBN 978-1-57659-079-9 • A Poor Man's Legacy: An Anthology of Franciscan Poverty, by Cyprian Lynch, Franciscan Institute Publications, 1989. ISBN 978-1-57659-069-0 • The Franciscan Concept of Mission in the High Middle Ages, by E. Randolph Daniel, Franciscan Institute Publications, 1992. ISBN 978-1-58659-065-2 • Peace and Good in America, A History of the Holy Name Province, Order of the Friars Minor, 1850s to the Present, by Joseph M. White, Franciscan Institute Publications, 2004. ISBN 978-1-57659-196-3 • The Birth of a Movement, by David Flood and Thaddee Matura, Franciscan Institute Publications, 1975. ISBN 978-0-8199-0567-3 • A History of the Franciscan Order: From Its Origins to the Year 1517 by John R. H. Moorman, Oxford University Press, Oxford, (1968) ISBN 0-19-826425-9; reprint: Franciscan Herald Press, Chicago, IL (1988) ISBN 0-8199-0921-1 • Franciscan Philosophy at Oxford in the Thirteenth Century by D.E. Sharp, Oxford University Press, London (1930); (a more recent ed.: ISBN 0-576-99216-X) • Medieval Monasticism: Forms of Religious Life in Western Europe in the Middle Ages (3rd Edition) by C.H. Lawrence, ISBN 0-582-40427-4 • The Spiritual Franciscans: From Protest to Persecution in the Century After Saint Francis by David Burr. ISBN 0-271-02128-4 • Francis and Clare: The Complete Works By Ignatius C. Brady, Regis J. Armstrong, Paulist Press, Mahwah, New Jersey, (1982) ISBN 0-8091-2446-7 • The Fraternal Economy: A Pastoral Psychology of Franciscan Economics By David B. Couturier, Cloverdale Books, South Bend (2007) ISBN 978-1-929569-23-6 • Francis of Assisi: Early Documents 3 Volumes. Edited by Regis J. Armstrong, OFM Cap., J.A. Wayne Hellmann, OFM Conv., and William J. Short, OFM. New York: New City Press. Copyright 1999, Franciscan Institute of Saint Bonaventure University, Saint Bonaventure, NY. ISBN 978-1-56548-110-7. • "The Franciscan Story" by Maurice Carmody, Athena Press Publishing Co. UK (2008). ISBN 1-84748-141-8 ; ISBN 978-1-84748-141-2 • "Santo António de Lisboa - Da Ciência da Escritura ao Livro da Natureza", Maria Cândida Monteiro Pacheco, Imprensa Nacional casa da Moeda,Lisboa, (1997), ISBN 972-27-0855-4 • "O Simbolismo da Natureza em Santo António de Lisboa", José Acácio Aguiar e Castro,Universidade Católica Portugesa- Fundação Engº António de Almeida, Porto, 1997, ISBN UCP 972-9290.13-X /FEAA 972-8386-03-6 72 Franciscan Articles • Schmucki, Oktavian (2000) "Die Regel des Johannes von Matha und die Regel des Franziskus von Assisi. Ähnlichkeiten und Eigenheiten. Neue Beziehungen zum Islam" (pp. 219–244) in Cipollone, Giulio (ed.). La Liberazione dei 'Captivi' tra Cristianità e Islam: Oltre la Crociata e il Gihâd: Tolleranza e Servizio Umanitario. (CollectaneaArchivi Vaticani, 46.) Archivio Segreto Vaticano, Vatican City. • , Masha Halevi, Between Faith and Science: Franciscan Archaeology in the Service of the Holy Places, Middle Eastern Studies Volume 48, Issue 2, 2012pages 249-267 (http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/ 00263206.2012.653139) External links Official websites Three branches of First Order • Ordo Fratrum Minorum (http://www.ofm.org/), official website • Ordo Fratrum Minorum Capuccinorum (http://www.ofmcap.org/), official website • Ordo Fratrum Minorum Conventualium (http://www.ofm-conv.org/), official website Regular and Secular Third Order • Tertius Ordo Regularis (http://www.franciscan.org/), official website • Ordo Franciscanus Saecularis (http://www.ciofs.org/en.htm), official website • Franciscan Community of Mercy (http://www.franciscancommunityofmercy.org/), an independent Franciscan website • Brothers of the Poor of St. Francis of Assisi (http://www.franciscan-brothers.net/), official website Lutheran Franciscans • Order of Lutheran Franciscans (http://lutheranfranciscans.org/) • Evangelische Franziskaner-Tertiaren (http://www.hochkirchliche-vereinigung.de/evt.html) in Germany (German) • • • • Franciskus Tredje Orden (http://www.fto.st/) in Sweden (Swedish) The Kanaan Franciscan Brothers (http://www.marysisters.org.au/international/kanaan/kanaan-brothers.htm) Helige Franciskus Systraskap (http://www.svenskakyrkan.se/klostren/Francisk.htm) (Swedish) Franciskus-Sällskapet i Finland (http://www.franciskus.fi/) (Swedish) Anglican Franciscan • • • • • • Anglican Franciscans (http://www.franciscans.org.uk/) Order of Servant Franciscans (http://www.tifpecusa.faithweb.com/), Third Order (OSF) Order of Saint Francis (OSF) (http://www.osffranciscans.com) The Little Sisters of St. Clare (http://www.stclarelittlesisters.org/) Franciscan Servants of the Holy Cross - Original Province (FSHC) (http://www.holycrossfranciscans.com/) The Company of Jesus (CJ) (http://companyofjesus.org/) 73 Franciscan 74 Non-denominational Franciscan • Companions of Jesus (http://scjesus.co.uk/), a non-denominational order • Order of Ecumenical Franciscans (http://www.franciscans.com/), a non-denominational group Research resources • Online guide to the Academy of American Franciscan History Microfilm Collection, 1526-1972 (http://www. oac.cdlib.org/findaid/ark:/13030/kt5199r1g0/), The Bancroft Library • Franciscan authors, 13th – 18th century (http://www.bart.nl/~roestb/franciscan/) Annals of the Four Masters The Annals of the Kingdom of Ireland (Irish: Annála Ríoghachta Éireann) or the Annals of the Four Masters (Annála na gCeithre Máistrí) are a chronicle of medieval Irish history. The entries span from the Deluge, dated as 2,242 years after creation[1] to AD 1616.[2] Publication delay Due to the criticisms of Tuileagna Ó Maol Chonaire, the text was not published in the lifetime of any of the participants. Text The annals are mainly a compilation of earlier annals, although there is some original work. They were compiled between 1632 and 1636 in the Franciscan friary in Donegal Town. The entries for the twelfth century and before are sourced from medieval annals of the community. The later entries come from the records of the Irish aristocracy (such as the Annals of Ulster), and the seventeenth-century entries are based on personal recollection and observation. The chief compiler of the annals was Mícheál Ó Cléirigh, who was assisted by, among others, Cú Choigcríche Ó Cléirigh, Fearfeasa Ó Maol Chonaire and Peregrine Ó Duibhgeannain. Although only one of the authors, Mícheál Ó Cléirigh, was a Franciscan friar, they became known as 'The Four Friars' or in the original Irish, Na Ceithre Máistrí. The Anglicized version of this was "The Four Masters", the name that became associated with the annals themselves. The patron of the project was Fearghal Ó Gadhra, a lord in County Sligo. Signature page from the Annals of the Four Masters Entry for AD 432 The annals are written in Irish. The several manuscript copies are held at Trinity College Dublin, the Royal Irish Academy, University College Dublin and the National Library of Ireland. Annals of the Four Masters Translation The first substantial English translation (starting at AD 1171) was published by Owen Connellan in 1846. The Connellan translation included the annals from the eleventh to the seventeenth centuries. The only version to have a four-colour frontispiece, it included a large folding map showing the location of families in Ireland. This edition, neglected for over 150 years, was republished in the early twenty-first century. The original Connellan translation was followed several years later by a full translation by the historian John O'Donovan. The translation was funded by a government grant of £1,000 obtained by the notable mathematician William Rowan Hamilton while he was president of the Royal Irish Academy. The Annals are one of the principal Irish-language sources for Irish history up to 1616. While many of the early chapters are essentially a list of names and dates, the later chapters, dealing with events of which the authors had first-hand accounts, are much more detailed. Importance The reliability and usefulness of the Annals as a historical source has sometimes been questioned by presentists on the grounds that they were limited to accounts of the births, deaths and activities of the Gaelic nobility of Ireland and often ignore wider social trends or events. The reality of life in the Gaelic world was that it was a patrilineal and hierarchical society, and naturally the Annals reflect this. On the other hand, the Annals, as one of the few prose sources in Irish from this period, also provide a valuable insight into events such as the Desmond Rebellions and the Nine Years War from a Gaelic Irish perspective. Editions and translations • O’Donovan, John (ed. and tr.). Annála Rioghachta Eireann. Annals of the Kingdom of Ireland by the Four Masters, from the earliest period to the year 1616. Edited from MSS in the Library of the Royal Irish Academy and of Trinity College Dublin with a translation and copious notes. 7 volumes Royal Irish Academy. Dublin, 1848–51. Second edition, 1856. The Annals are available from CELT [3] in Irish and in English translation. Full scans of the Annals with O'Donovan's extensive notes, indices and appendices from his 1856 edition can be found at the Internet Archive: Volume 1 (2952 BC – AD 902): edition [4], translation [5], full scan [6] Volume 2 (AD 903–1171): edition [7], translation [8], full scan [9] Volume 3 (AD 1172–1372): edition [10], translation [11], full scan [12] Volume 4 (AD 1373–1500): edition [13], translation [14], full scan [15] Volume 5 (AD 1501–1588): edition [16], translation [17], full scan [18] Volume 6 (AD 1589–1616): edition [19], translation [20], full scan [21] (appendix contains the carefully done pedigrees of a small selection of the Gaelic Irish nobility, pp. 2377 ff) • Volume 7 (indices): full scan [22] • • • • • • 75 Annals of the Four Masters References [1] The Age of the World, to this Year of the Deluge, 2242 (http:/ / www. ucc. ie/ celt/ published/ T100005A/ text001. html), in Corpus of Electronic Texts translation. [2] The Age of Christ, one thousand six hundred sixteen (http:/ / www. ucc. ie/ celt/ published/ T100005F/ text024. html), in Corpus of Electronic Texts translation. [3] http:/ / celt. ucc. ie/ [4] http:/ / www. ucc. ie/ celt/ published/ G100005A [5] http:/ / www. ucc. ie/ celt/ published/ T100005A [6] http:/ / www. archive. org/ details/ annalsofkingdomo01ocleuoft [7] http:/ / www. ucc. ie/ celt/ published/ G100005B [8] http:/ / www. ucc. ie/ celt/ published/ T100005B [9] http:/ / www. archive. org/ details/ annalsofkingdomo02ocleuoft [10] http:/ / www. ucc. ie/ celt/ published/ G100005C [11] http:/ / www. ucc. ie/ celt/ published/ T100005C [12] http:/ / www. archive. org/ details/ annalsofkingdomo03ocleuoft [13] http:/ / www. ucc. ie/ celt/ published/ G100005D [14] http:/ / www. ucc. ie/ celt/ published/ T100005D [15] http:/ / www. archive. org/ details/ annalsofkingdomo04ocleuoft [16] http:/ / www. ucc. ie/ celt/ published/ G100005E [17] http:/ / www. ucc. ie/ celt/ published/ T100005E [18] http:/ / www. archive. org/ details/ annalsofkingdomo05ocleuoft [19] [20] [21] [22] http:/ / www. ucc. ie/ celt/ published/ G100005F http:/ / www. ucc. ie/ celt/ published/ T100005F http:/ / www. archive. org/ details/ annalsofkingdomo06ocleuoft http:/ / www. archive. org/ details/ annalsofkingdomo07ocleuoft Further reading • Cunningham, Bernadette (2010). The Annals of the Four Masters: Irish History, Kingship and Society in the Early Seventeenth Century. Dublin: Four Courts. ISBN 978-1-84682-203-2. • Cunningham, Bernadette, ed. (2007). O'Donnell Histories: Donegal and the Annals of the Four Masters. Rathmullan: Rathmullan & District Local Historical Society. • Mc Carthy, Daniel P. (2008). The Irish Annals: Their Genesis, Evolution and History. Dublin: Four Courts. • Mc Carthy, Daniel P. (2005). "Irish Chronicles and Their Chronology" (http://www.cs.tcd.ie/Dan.McCarthy/ chronology/synchronisms/annals-chron.htm). Retrieved 2010-04-05. • Ó Muraíle, Nollaig (1987). "The autograph manuscripts of the Annals of the Four Masters". Celtica 19: 75–95. • O'Sullivan, William (1999). "The Slane manuscript of the Annals of the Four Masters". Ríocht na Mídhe: Journal of the County Meath Historical Society 10: 78–85. External links • Catholic Encyclopedia: Annals of the Four Masters (http://www.newadvent.org/cathen/06163b.htm) • List of Published Texts at CELT (http://celt.ucc.ie/publishd.html) — University College Cork's Corpus of Electronic Texts project has the full text of the annals online, both in the original Irish and in O'Donovan's translation. • Irish Script On Screen (http://www.isos.dias.ie/) — The ISOS project at the Dublin Institute for Advanced Studies has high-resolution digital images of the Royal Irish Academy's copy of the Annals. 76 Hugh Roe O'Donnell 77 Hugh Roe O'Donnell Aodh Ruadh Ó Domhnaill Hugh Roe O'Donnell Ruler of Tyrconnell "The Gaelic Chieftain", a modern sculpture commemorating O'Donnell's victory at the battle at Curlew Pass in 1599 Reign 1587–1602 Coronation 1587, Tullyhogue (Tulach Óg) Born October 30, 1572 Birthplace Lifford (in modern County Donegal) Died 10 September 1602 Place of death Simancas Castle, Valladolid Buried Franciscan monastery, Valladolid, Spain Predecessor Aodh mac Maghnusa Ó Domhnaill Successor Ruairí Ó Domhnaill Offspring none Royal House Uí Dhomhnaill Father Aodh mac Maghnusa Ó Domhnaill Mother Ineen Dubh (Finola MacDonald) Aodh Ruadh Ó Domhnaill, anglicised as either Hugh Roe O'Donnell or Red Hugh O'Donnell (1572 – 10 September 1602), was An Ó Domhnaill (The O'Donnell) and Rí (king) of Dun na nGall (anglicised Donegal, now known as County Donegal). He led a rebellion against English government in Ireland from 1593 and helped to lead the Nine Years' War (a revolt against English occupation) from 1595 to 1603. He is sometimes also known as Aodh Ruadh II or Red Hugh II, especially within County Donegal.[1] Hugh Roe O'Donnell Biography Early life, imprisonment, and escape For the political context of O'Donnell's life see the Tudor conquest of Ireland Aodh Ruadh Ó Domhnaill was born to the King of Tír Chonaill, Aodh mac Maghnusa Ó Domhnaill, and his second wife, the Ineen Dubh, in 1572. At the age of fifteen, in 1587, he was seized by Sir John Perrot, then the English Lord Deputy of Ireland, and imprisoned in Dublin Castle in an attempt to prevent an alliance between the O'Donnell and O'Neill clans. O'Donnell escaped briefly in 1591 but was recaptured within days. Hugh O'Donnell made his successful escape only in January, 1592, assisted by his ally Hugh O'Neill, 2nd Earl of Tyrone, who arranged for his flight from Dublin into the Wicklow Mountains in the depths of winter. O'Donnell successfully reached the stronghold of Fiach MacHugh O'Byrne (another of O'Neill's allies) at Glenmalure, where he found refuge, but he had lost both big toes to frostbite and his companion and fellow escapee Art O'Neill had died of exposure in the mountains. Hugh O'Donnell and his two companions, the brothers Art and Henry O'Neill, were the only prisoners ever to successfully escape captivity in Dublin Castle. The Nine Years War Upon his return to Ulster, he gained the leadership of the O'Donnell Clan (known as Clann Dalaigh of the tribe Cenél Conaill derived from the Heremonian dynasty of High-Kings of Ireland), O'Donnell becoming "The O'Donnell", Lord of Tyrconnell (modern Donegal) after his father abdicated in his favour later that year. Having driven the crown sheriff out of Tyrconnel, he successfully led two expeditions against Turlough Luineach O'Neill in 1593, in order to force Turlough O'Neill to abdicate his chieftainship in favour of Hugh O'Neill. At this point, O'Neill did not join O'Donnell in open rebellion, but secretly backed him in order to enhance his bargaining power with the English. O'Neill by now was also communicating with Philip II of Spain for military aid. Declaring open rebellion against the English the following year, O'Donnell's forces captured Connacht from Sligo to Leitrim by 1595. In this year, Hugh O'Neill, Earl of Tyrone, abandoned negotiation with the English and in 1596 the combined forces of O'Donnell and O'Neill defeated an English army under Sir Henry Bagenal at the Battle of Clontibret. Their greatest victory came two years later however at Battle of the Yellow Ford on the Blackwater River near the southern border of Tyrone in August 1598. At this battle, the Irish annihilated an English force marching to relieve Armagh and they seemed on the verge of expelling the English from Ireland altogether. O'Neill then went south to secure the allegiance of Irish lords in Munster, without much success. O'Donnell raided Connacht, destroying the town of Athenry, laying waste to much of County Galway, and on being refused entry to Galway, burned its suburbs: "... he sent forth swift-moving marauding parties through the district of Caladh, and the upper part of the territory; and they carried off many herds of cows and other preys to O'Donnell, to the town of Athenry; and though the warders of the town attempted to defend it, the effort was of no avail to them, for O'Donnell's people applied fires and flames to the strongly-closed gates of the town, and carried to them great ladders, and, placing them against the walls, they recte, some of them ascended to the parapets of the wall. They then leaped from the parapets, and gained the streets of the town, and opened the gates for those who were outside. They all then proceeded to demolish the storehouses and the strong habitations; and they carried away all the goods and valuables that were in them. They remained that night in the town. It was not easy to enumerate or reckon the quantities of copper, iron, clothes, and habiliments, which they carried away from the town on the following day. From the same town he sent forth marauding parties to plunder Clanrickard, on both sides of the river; and these marauders totally plundered and ravaged the tract of country from Leathrath to Magh-Seanchomhladh. The remaining part 78 Hugh Roe O'Donnell of his army burned and ravaged the territory, from the town of Athenry and Rath-Goirrgin Westwards to Rinn-Mil and Meadhraige, and to the gates of Galway, and burned Teagh-Brighde, at the military gate of Galway."[2] As a result of these and other assaults, O'Donnell was unable to persuade the local lords to join him. However, in the next two years, O'Donnell and O'Neill were hard pressed with the deployment of thousands more English troops in the country. O'Donnell repulsed an English expedition towards western Ulster at the battle of Curlew Pass in 1599, but his and O'Neill's position was increasingly defensive. Even worse for O'Donnell than English offensives was the defection of his kinsman {cousin and Brother-in-law}, Niall Garve O'Donnell to the English side, in return for their backing his own claim the O'Donnell chieftainship. Niall Garve's support allowed the English to land a seaborne force at Derry in the heart of O'Donnell's territory. They recognised that their only chance of winning the war outright was with the aid of a Spanish invasion. The Spanish finally landed at Kinsale - at virtually the opposite end of Ireland from the Ulster rebels in September 1601. O'Donnell Led his army in a hard march during the winter of 1601, often covering over 40 miles a day, to join O'Neill and the Spanish General Juan del Águila at Kinsale arriving in early December 1601. En route, true to his family arms and Constantinian motto In Hoc Signo Vinces and in anticipation of the battle to come at Kinsale, he visited and venerated a supposed relic of the True Cross (Holy rood) on the Feast of St. Andrew, on November 30, 1601 at Holy Cross Abbey, and removed a portion of it. From there he sent an expedition to Ardfert in County Kerry, to win a quick victory and successfully recover the territory of his ally, Fitzmaurice, Lord of Kerry, who had lost it and his 9-year old son, to Sir Charles Wilmot. He left some of his O'Donnell kinsmen behind in Ardfert to guard the Barony of Clanmaurice. During the Battle of Kinsale on 5/6 January 1602 the combined forces of Del Aquila, O'Neill and O'Donnell were defeated by Sir Charles Blount, Lord Mountjoy. Flight to Spain and death After the Irish defeat at Kinsale, O'Donnell left Ireland and sailed to Corunna in Galicia, Spain, where many other chieftains were already arriving with their families. There he was received with great honours by the Governor of Galicia and the Lord Archbishop of Santiago de Compostela, where an Irish College was founded. He was also taken to "visit the Tower of Betanzos, where according to bardic legends the sons of Milesius left to the IsIe of Destiny".[3] While based in Corunna, he plotted a return to Ireland and travelled to Valladolid to ask further assistance from Philip III of Spain, who promised him he would organise a new invasion of Ireland. As a year passed and O'Donnell did not receive any news from Philip III of Spain, he left again for Valladolid but he died en route and was buried at Simancas Castle in 1602. He was attended on his death-bed by Archbishop of Tuam Fláithrí Ó Maol Chonaire and two friars from Donegal named Father Muiris Ulltach. The Irish double-agent, James "Spanish" Blake, is alleged to have poisoned O'Donnell. With his death Spanish plans to send further assistance to the Irish were abandoned. He was buried in the chapter of the Franciscan monastery in Valladolid. However, the building was demolished in the nineteenth century, and the exact location of the tomb is unknown. He was succeeded as chief of the Clan O'Donnell by his brother, Rory O'Donnell, created the 1st Earl of Tyrconnell the following year by the English Crown. Rory succeeded Red Hugh as both King of Tír Chonaill and leader of the Red Hugh O'Donnell faction within the divided dynasty. His sister Nuala was married to his kinsman and rival Niall Garve O'Donnell 79 Hugh Roe O'Donnell Legacy He was highly praised in the Irish language writings of the early seventeenth century for his nobility and religious commitment to the Catholic faith - notably in the Annals of the Four Masters and Beatha Aodh Ruadh O Domhnaill ("The Life of Red Hugh O'Donnell") by Lughaidh Ó Cléirigh. Although his posthumous reputation has been somewhat overshadowed by that of his ally Hugh O'Neill, his leadership and military capabilities were considerable especially considering that he was active at a very young age and only 29 years old at the battle of Kinsale. His personality seems to have been particularly magnetic and contemporary sources are united in their praise of his oratorical ability. In 1977, the Aodh Ruadh O Domhnaill Guild was formed to seek his recognition as a saint of the Catholic Church. In 1991, a plaque was erected at Simancas Castle in commemoration of Red Hugh O'Donnell. In 1992, commemorating the 390 anniversary of the arrival of O'Donnell in Galicia, the Grammy-award winning composer of Riverdance, Bill Whelan, brought together the best musicians of Ireland and Galicia and released the symphony "From Kinsale to Corunna". In September 2002, Eunan O'Donnell, BL, gave the Simancas Castle Address in honour of Red Hugh, during the O'Donnell Clan Gathering to Spain. In popular culture • Hugh O'Donnell serves as the main character in the 1966 Walt Disney feature film, The Fighting Prince of Donegal. • He is the subject of James Clarence Mangan's poem, Ceann Salla. • He is also a major character in Brian Friel's 1989 play Making History. • Hugh O'Donnell plays a significant role in Maurice Walsh's book Blackcock's Feather. Further reading • 'Simancas Castle Address',Adhamhnan O Domhnaill, Journal of Donegal Historical Society, p. 94-96 • 'Niall Garbh O'Donnell - A man more sinned against than sinning', Eunan O'Donnell, BL, Journal of the Donegal Historical Society, 2000 & 1941. • The Life of Hugh Roe O'Donnell, Prince of Tyrconnell (Beatha Aodh Ruadh O Domhnaill) by Lughaidh O'Cleirigh. Edited by Paul Walsh and Colm Ó Lochlainn. Irish Texts Society, vol. 42. Dublin: Educational Company of Ireland, 1948 (original Gaelic manuscript in the Royal Irish Academy in Dublin). • Red Hugh: Prince of Donegal, by Robert T. Reilly, Farrar, Straus & Giroux, 1957. • O'Donel of Destiny, by Mary Kiely, Oxford, New York, 1939 (a narrative history for older children). • Annals of the Kingdom of Ireland (Annála Ríoghachta Éireann) by the Four Masters, from the earliest period to the year 1616, compiled during the period 1632-1636 by Brother Michael O’Clery, translated and edited by John O'Donovan in 1856, and re-published in 1998 by De Burca, Dublin. • A View of the Legal Institutions, Honorary Hereditary Offices, and Feudal Baronies established in Ireland, by William Lynch, Fellow of the Society of Antiquaries, published by Longman, Rees, Orme, Brown, and Green, Paternoster Row, London, 1830 (O’Donnell: page 190, remainder to Earl’s patent). • Vicissitudes of Families, by Sir Bernard Burke, Ulster King of Arms, published by Longman, Green, Longman and Roberts, Paternoster Row, London, 1861. (Chapter on O’Donnells, pages 125-148). • The Fate and Fortunes of the Earls of Tyrone (Hugh O’Neill) and Tyrconnel (Rory O’Donel), their flight from Ireland and death in exile, by the Rev. C. P. Meehan, M.R.I.A., 2nd edition, James Duffy, London, 1870. • Elizabeth's Irish Wars, by Cyril Falls, London, 1950. • Erin’s Blood Royal – The Gaelic Noble Dynasties of Ireland, by Peter Berresford Ellis, Constable, London, 1999, (pages 251-258 on the O’Donel, Prince of Tirconnell). 80 Hugh Roe O'Donnell • Red Hugh: The Story of Hugh Roe O'Donnell by Shirley D. Starke, The Aodh Ruadh O Domhnaill Guild, 1985. • Red Hugh by Deborah Lisson, Bunbury Western Australia, 1998, Published by Lothian Books. References [1] http:/ / www. libraryireland. com/ Atlas/ XXXIX-Red-Hugh-ODonnell. php [2] http:/ / www. ucc. ie/ celt/ published/ T100080/ index. html [3] D'Arcy McGee, Thomas, A Popular History of Ireland: from the Earliest Period to the Emancipation of the Catholics (http:/ / www. nalanda. nitc. ac. in/ resources/ english/ etext-project/ history/ ireland/ book-8chapter10. html), External links • The Life of Aodh Ruadh Ó Domhnaill, transcribed from the Book of Lughaidh Ó Clérigh (http://www.ucc.ie/ celt/published/G100080) • The Hugh O'Donnell Guild (http://valkyriepub.tripod.com/guild.htm) • The O'Donnell Coat of Arms and Family History (http://www.araltas.com/features/odonnell/) • Aodh Rua Ó Domhnaill Genealogy (http://www.arainnmhor.com/muintir/individual.php?pid=I5922& ged=arainnmuintir.ged) Flight of the Earls The Flight of the Earls (Irish: Imeacht na nIarlaí / Teitheadh na nIarlaí) took place on 14 September 1607, when Hugh Ó Neill of Tír Eóghain, Rory Ó Donnell of Tír Chonaill and about ninety followers left Ireland for mainland Europe. Background to the exile After their defeat at the Battle of Kinsale in 1601, and the suppression of the Nine Years' The ship is said to have set sail from Rathmullan, on the shore of Lough Swilly War in Ulster in 1603, Tyrone and the Prince of Tyrconnell, Lord Tyrconnell's elder brother and predecessor, had been forced into exile in January 1602 by the victorious English government of Ireland under the leadership of the Lord Mountjoy. They retained their lands and titles, although with much diminished extent and authority. However, the countryside was laid bare in a campaign of destruction in 1602, and induced famine in 1603, in the same way that O'Neill had devastated Munster in 1600. O'Neill was pardoned under the terms of the Treaty of Mellifont in March 1603 and submitted to the crown. When King James I took the throne in 1603 he quickly proceeded to issue pardons for the Irish lords and their rebel forces. As king of Scotland he had a better understanding of the advantages of working with local chiefs in the Scottish Highlands. However, as in other Irish lordships, the 1603 peace involved O'Neill losing substantial areas of land to his cousins and neighbours, who would be granted freeholds under the English system, instead of the looser arrangements under the former Brehon law system. This was not a new policy but was a well-understood and longstanding practice in the Tudor conquest of Ireland. On 10 September 1602 the Prince of Tyrconnell had already died, allegedly assassinated, in Spain, and his brother succeeded him as 25th Chieftain of the O'Donnell clan. He was later granted the Earldom of Tyrconnell by King 81 Flight of the Earls James I on 4 September 1603, and restored to a somewhat diminished scale of territories in Tyrconnell on 10 February 1604. In 1605 the new Lord Deputy of Ireland, Sir Arthur Chichester, began to encroach on the former freedoms of the two Earls and The Maguire, enforcing the new freeholds, especially that granted in North Ulster to the Ó Catháin chief. The Ó Catháins had formerly been important subjects of the O'Neills and required protection; in turn, Chichester wanted to reduce O'Neill's authority. An option was to charge O'Neill with treason if he did not comply with the new arrangements. The discovery of the Gunpowder Plot in the same year made it harder for Catholics to appear loyal to both the crown and the papacy. As the Dublin administration sided with O Cathain, O'Neill was invited by King James to make his case in 1607 to the Privy Council in London, which he never did. By 1607 O'Neill's allies The Maguire and the Earl of Tyrconnell were finding it hard to maintain their prestige on lower incomes. They planned to seek Spanish support before news of the Battle of Gibraltar arrived. When their ship dropped anchor, O'Neill seems to have joined them on impulse. He had three choices: • Flee with his friends and hope for a reinvasion by Spain • Go to London and stay at court until his grievances were redressed • Do nothing and live on a reduced income as a large landowner in Ulster. Fearing arrest, they chose to flee to the Continent, where they hoped to recruit an army for the invasion of Ireland with Spanish help. However, earlier in 1607 a Spanish fleet had been destroyed by the Dutch in the Battle of Gibraltar. Also as the Anglo–Spanish War (1585) had ended in 1604, King Philip III of Spain wanted to preserve the recent peace with England under its new Stuart dynasty. As a part of the peace proposals, a Spanish princess was to marry James' son Henry, though this never transpired. Tyrone ignored all these realities, remained in Italy, and persisted with his invasion plan until his death in exile in 1616. End of the old Gaelic order The earls left from the town of Rathmullan on Lough Swilly on a French ship with some of the leading Gaelic families in Ulster. This town was said to have witnessed the end of the old Gaelic order, in the sense that the earls were descended from Gaelic clan dynasties that had ruled their parts of Ulster for centuries. The Flight of the Earls was a watershed in Irish history, as the ancient Gaelic aristocracy of Ulster went into permanent exile. Despite their attachment to and importance in the Gaelic system, the Earls' ancestors had also accepted their Earldoms from the English-run Kingdom of Ireland in the 1540s, under the policy of surrender and regrant. Some historians argue that their flight was forced upon them by the fallout from the Tudor conquest of Ireland, others that it was a strategic mistake that cleared the way for the Plantation of Ulster. The journey The Earls set sail from Rathmullan, a village on the shore of Lough Swilly in County Donegal, accompanied by ninety followers, many of them Ulster noblemen, and some members of their families. Several left their wives behind, hoping either to return or retrieve them later. The late Tomas Cardinal O’Fiaich, Archbishop of Armagh, gave a lecture at Rathmullan in September 1988 and recounted that the Earl of Tyrone allegedly “had a gold cross which contained a relic of the True Cross, and this he trailed in the water behind the ship, and according to O’Ciainain, it gave some relief from the storm” during the crossing to Quillebeuf-sur-Seine in Normandy, France; they finally reached the Continent on 4 October 1607.[1] The significance of this act is also underlined by the fact that the date of the exile from Rathmullan was the Feast of the Exaltation of the Holy Cross. This supposed relic of the True Cross was probably a minor relic taken from that kept at Holy Cross Abbey which they had previously visited en route to Kinsale in 1601. Their destination was Spain, but they disembarked in France and proceeded overland to Spanish Flanders, some remaining in Leuven, while the main party continued to Italy. They planned to return to Ireland and campaign for the 82 Flight of the Earls recovery of their lands, with the support of Spain, but both died in exile. Tadhg Ó Cianáin subsequently described the journey in great detail.[2] The attainders King James issued a "A Proclamation touching the Earles of Tyrone and Tyrconnell" on 15 November 1607, describing their action as treasonous, and therefore preparing the ground for the eventual forfeiture of their lands and titles. No reply was made to the proclamation.[3] Their titles were attainted in 1614, although they continued to be recognised on the Continent. It can be noted that the attainder of these titles in 1614 – six years after Earl of Tyrconnell’s death in Rome in 1608 – can hardly have been considered legitimate, at least in continental Catholic countries of the day. Even within the context of English and its colonial Irish rule, the attainder came about six years after Rory, 1st Earl of Tyrconnell, had already died. As accused, for him to have been properly tried, he should have been tried by his peers in the Peerage of Ireland, under the presiding authority of the Lord High Steward of Ireland. However, he was already dead, unable to stand in his own defence, and his title already inherited by his son Hugh “Albert” O'Donnell, therefore in order to attaint the title, the trial would have to have been of Hugh “Albert”, who had in fact committed no crime. Under English legal theory the title had potentially lapsed as soon as he embarked on the ship without permission to leave Ireland, and when it lapsed it could not then pass to his descendants without some special waiver. The attainder was therefore considered by his supporters as a travesty of justice and was considered null and void by many on the Continent. The Earl of Tyrconnell's son, Hugh “Albert” O'Donnell's succession as 2nd Earl of Tyrconnell (1st creation) was therefore recognized as valid abroad, not least in the Spanish realm. These attainders had a much greater impact on the people of Ulster. The 1603 peace arrangement with the three lords was ended, as they had broken its conditions by leaving the kingdom without permission, and their remaining freehold lands were confiscated. Chichester proposed a new plantation of settlers from England, Wales and Scotland, sponsored in part by the City of London merchants, which became known as the Plantation of Ulster. This had an enormous negative impact on the lower class Gaelic-culture inhabitants of Ulster, an outcome that is still overlooked. Change in Spanish policy In the Papal Bull Ilius of 1555, the Pope had conferred the title King of Ireland on King Philip II of Spain when he was married to Queen Mary. Philip II made no claim to the kingship of Ireland after Mary's death in 1558.[4] He engaged in a lengthy war from 1585 with her sister Elizabeth I, and he and his successor Philip III supported the Irish Catholic rebels up to the siege of Kinsale in 1601 at great expense but without success. He had been offered the kingship in 1595 by O'Neill and his allies, but turned it down. Given this lengthy support it was reasonable for Tyrconnell and Tyrone to try to solicit help from Philip III, but Spanish policy was to maintain its recent (1604) peace with England, and its European fleet had anyway been destroyed by the Dutch over four months earlier. There are two possibilities at the time of the Flight; • either the earls did not know that Spain was unable and unwilling to help, or • they did know, and deceived their followers into thinking that a Spanish invasion would arrive within months. 83 Flight of the Earls 84 Commemoration on the 400th anniversary The 400th anniversary of the Flight of the Earls was marked on 14 September 2007, throughout Donegal, including a regatta of tall ships, fireworks, lectures, and conferences. The President of Ireland Mary McAleese unveiled a statue depicting the Flight at Rathmullan. There is a permanent exhibition dedicated to the Flight of the Earls and the subsequent Plantation in Draperstown in Northern Ireland and at the "Flight of the Earls Centre" in the Martello Tower at Rathmullan. In 2008 there were also celebrations to mark the 400th anniversary of the arrival of the Earls in Rome, with a celebratory performance by the Cross Border Orchestra of Ireland in San Ignatio Church in Rome.[5] President of Ireland, Mary McAleese, arrives to unveil a statue depicting The Flight of the Earls at Rathmullan on 4 September 2007. References [1] Donegal Historical Society in O’Domhnaill Abu, issue no. 11, of Summer 1989. [2] "The Flight of the Earls", text by Tadhg Ó Cianáin (http:/ / publish. ucc. ie/ celt/ docs/ T100070) [3] "A Proclamation touching the Earles of Tyrone and Tyrconnell", 1607 (http:/ / publish. ucc. ie/ celt/ docs/ E600001-002) [4] Text of the Bull Ilius (in Latin) (http:/ / www. heraldica. org/ topics/ national/ ireland_docs. htm#bull1555) [5] Irish Get Special Place for Corpus Christi Events (http:/ / www. zenit. org/ rssenglish-22643), Zenit, 21 May 2008 Further reading • The Flight of the Earls, An Illustrated History, 2007, by Dr. John McCavitt FRHistS. • The Life of Hugh Roe O'Donnell, Prince of Tyrconnell (Beatha Aodh Ruadh O Domhnaill) by Lughaidh O'Cleirigh. Edited by Paul Walsh and Colm Ó Lochlainn. Irish Texts Society, vol. 42. Dublin: Educational Company of Ireland, 1948 (original Gaelic manuscript in the Royal Irish Academy in Dublin). • Annals of the Kingdom of Ireland (Annála Ríoghachta Éireann) by the Four Masters, from the earliest period to the year 1616, compiled during the period 1632-1636 by Brother Michael O’Clery, translated and edited by John O'Donovan in 1856, and re-published in 1998 by De Burca, Dublin. • Blood Royal - From the time of Alexander the Great to Queen Elizabeth II, by Charles Mosley (genealogist), published for Ruvigny Ltd., London, 2002 [ISBN 0-9524229-9-9] • The Fighting Prince of Donegal, A Walt Disney Film, made in 1966 about the life of Prince Red Hugh O’Donnell (i.e. Hugh Roe). • Vicissitudes of Families, by Sir Bernard Burke, Ulster King of Arms, published by Longman, Green, Longman and Roberts, Paternoster Row, London, 1861. (Chapter on O’Donnells, pages 125-148). • The Fate and Fortunes of the Earls of Tyrone (Hugh O’Neill) and Tyrconnel (Rory O’Donel), their flight from Ireland and death in exile, by the Rev. C. P. Meehan, M.R.I.A., 2nd edition, James Duffy, London, 1870. • Erin’s Blood Royal – The Gaelic Noble Dynasties of Ireland, by Peter Berresford Ellis, Constable, London, 1999, (pages 251-258 on the O’Donel, Prince of Tirconnell). • Vanishing Kingdoms - The Irish Chiefs and Their Families, by Walter J. P. Curley (former US Ambassador to Ireland), with foreword by Charles Lysaght, published by The Lilliput Press, Dublin, 2004 [ISBN 1-84351-055-3 & ISBN 1-84351-056-1]. (Chapter on O'Donnell of Tyrconnell, page 59). Flight of the Earls • A View of the Legal Institutions, Honorary Hereditary Offices, and Feudal Baronies established in Ireland, by William Lynch, Fellow of the Society of Antiquaries, published by Longman, Rees, Orme, Brown, and Green, Paternoster Row, London, 1830 (O’Donnell: page 190, remainder to Earl’s patent). External links • Mural depicting Flight of the Earls, Belfast, Northern Ireland (http://www.ephotozine.com/photo/1349855) • Mural depicting flight of the Earls in Bruff Co. Limerick (http://www.deise.org/murals/index.html) • 2007 - Donegal County Council/County Development Board - Yearlong Commemoration of Flight of the Earls (1607 - 2007) (http://www.flightoftheearls.ie/) • The Flight Of The Earls - By Dr John McCavitt FRHistS (http://www.theflightoftheearls.net/) • Information on the Flight of the Earls (http://www.irelandseye.com/aarticles/history/events/dates/earls. shtm) • Earls Heritage Centre, Rathmullan, County Donegal (http://www.flightoftheearls.com) • BBC History article (http://www.bbc.co.uk/history/british/plantation/planters/es02.shtml) • The National Library of Ireland's current exhibition, Strangers to Citizens: the Irish in Europe, 1600-1800 (http:// www.nli.ie) • (http://www.flightoftheearls.ie/history.html) • (http://www.irelandseye.com/aarticles/history/events/dates/earls.shtm) • Swiss commemoration / short film; March, 2008 (http://www.swissinfo.ch/eng/multimedia/video/detail. html?siteSect=15045&sid=8867902) • Irish Times articles on the flight, 2007 (http://www.irishtimes.com/focus/earls/) Plantation of Ulster The Plantation of Ulster (Irish: Plandáil Uladh) was the organised colonisation (plantation) of Ulster – a province of Ireland – by people from Scotland and England. Private plantation by wealthy landowners began in 1606,[1] while official plantation controlled by King James I of England and VI of Scotland began in 1609. All land owned by Irish chieftains of the Uí Néill and Uí Domhnaill (along with those of their supporters) was confiscated and used to settle the colonists. This land comprised The counties of Ulster (modern boundaries) that were colonised during the an estimated half a million acres plantations. This map is a simplified one, as the amount of land actually colonised did not cover the entire shaded area. (2,000 km²) in the counties Tyrconnell, Tyrone, Fermanagh, Cavan, Coleraine and Armagh.[2] Most of the counties Antrim and Down were privately colonised.[1] The "British tenants",[3] a term applied to the colonists,[4] were mostly from Scotland and England. They were required to be English-speaking and Protestant.[5] The Scottish colonists were mostly Presbyterian[3] and the English mostly members of the Church of England. The Plantation of Ulster was the biggest of the Plantations of Ireland. Ulster was colonised to prevent further rebellion, as it had been the region most resistant to English control during the preceding century. 85 Plantation of Ulster Ulster before the plantation Prior to its conquest in the Nine Years War of the 1590s, Ulster had been the most Gaelic part of Ireland, a province existing largely outside English control.[6] There were few towns, few roads and much of the country was thickly wooded.[7] Throughout the 16th century Ulster was viewed by the English as being "underpopulated" and undeveloped.[8] An early attempt at plantation of the north of Ireland in the 1570s on the east coast of Ulster by Walter Devereux, 1st Earl of Essex, had failed (see Plantations of Ireland). Many of the Gaelic Irish lived by “creaghting” (seasonal migration with their cattle) and as such, permanent habitations were uncommon.[9] The wars fought between Gaelic clans and between the Gaelic and English undoubtedly contributed to depopulation.[10] However by 1600 (before the worst atrocities of the Nine Years War) Ulster's total adult population according to Perceval-Maxwell was only 25,000 to 40,000 people.[11] The 16th century English conquest of Ireland was made piece by piece and starting in the reign of Henry VIII (1509–1547) and only being completed after sustained warfare in the reign of Elizabeth I (1558–1603). During these wars the force of the semi-independent chieftains was broken.[12] The Nine Years War of 1594-1603 provided the immediate background to the Plantation. A Confederation of northern Gaelic Chieftains, led by Hugh O'Neill resisted the imposition of English government into Ulster. Following an extremely costly series of campaigns by the English, including massacre and use of ruthless scorched earth tactics, the Nine Years War ended in 1603 with the surrender of Hugh O'Neill's and Hugh O'Donnell's forces at the Treaty of Mellifont.[13] The terms of surrender granted to the rebels were generous, with the principal condition that lands formerly contested by feudal right and Brehon law be held under English law.[14] However, when Hugh O'Neill and other rebel chieftains left Ireland in the Flight of the Earls (1607) to seek Spanish help for a new rebellion, Lord Deputy Arthur Chichester seized their lands and prepared to colonise the province in a plantation. This would have included large grants of land to native Irish lords who had sided with the English during the war, for example Niall Garve O'Donnell. However, the plan was interrupted by the rebellion in 1608 of Cahir O'Doherty of Inishowen, who raided the city of Derry. The brief rebellion was suppressed by Sir Richard Wingfield. After O'Doherty's death his lands in Inishowen were granted out by the state, and eventually escheated to the Crown. This episode prompted Chichester to expand his plans to expropriate the legal titles of all native landowners in the province.[15] Planning the plantation The Plantation of Ulster was presented to James VI as a joint "British", or English and Scottish, venture to 'pacify' and 'civilise' Ulster. Therefore at least half the settlers would be Scots. James had been King of Scots before he was King of England and needed to reward his subjects in Scotland with land in Ulster to assure them they were not being neglected now that James had moved his court to London. In addition, long-standing contact and settlement between Ulster and the west of Scotland meant that Scottish participation was a practical necessity.[16] Six counties were involved in the official plantation – Donegal, Coleraine, Tyrone, Fermanagh, Cavan and Armagh. In the two officially unplanted counties of Antrim and Down, substantial Presbyterian Scots settlement had been underway since at least 1606.[17] The plan for the plantation was determined by two factors. One was the wish to make sure the settlement could not be destroyed by rebellion as the first Munster Plantation had been in the Nine Years War. This meant that, rather than settling the planters in isolated pockets of land confiscated from Irish rebels, all of the land would be confiscated and then redistributed to create concentrations of British settlers around new towns and garrisons.[18] What was more, the new landowners were explicitly banned from taking Irish tenants and had to import workers from England and Scotland. The remaining Irish landowners were to be granted one quarter of the land in Ulster. The peasant Irish population was intended to be relocated to live near garrisons and Protestant churches. Moreover, 86 Plantation of Ulster the planters were barred from selling their lands to any Irishman and were required to build defences against any possible rebellion or invasion. The settlement was to be completed within three years. In this way, it was hoped that a defensible new community composed entirely of loyal British subjects would be created.[19] The second major influence on the Plantation was the negotiation among various interest groups on the British side. The principal landowners were to be Undertakers, wealthy men from England and Scotland who undertook to import tenants from their own estates. They were granted around 3000 acres (12 km²) each, on condition that they settle a minimum of 48 adult males (including at least 20 families), who had to be English-speaking and Protestant. However, veterans of the Nine Years War (known as Servitors) led by Arthur Chichester successfully lobbied to be rewarded with land grants of their own.[20][21] Since these former officers did not have enough private capital to fund the colonisation, their involvement was subsidised by the twelve great guilds. Livery companies from the City of London were coerced into investing in the project, as were The City of London guilds which were also granted land on the west bank of the River Foyle, to build their own city (Londonderry near the older Derry) as well as lands in County Coleraine. They were known jointly as the The Honourable The Irish Society. The final major recipient of lands was the Protestant Church of Ireland, which was granted all the churches and lands previously owned by the Roman Catholic Church. The British government intended that clerics from England and the Pale would convert the native population to Protestantism.[22] Implementing the plantation Scottish settlers had been migrating to Ulster for many centuries. Highland Gaelic Scottish mercenaries known as Gallowglass had been doing so since the 15th century and Presbyterian lowland Scots had been arriving since around 1600. From 1606 there was substantial lowland Scots settlement on disinhabited land in north Down, led by Hugh Montgomery and James Hamilton.[1] In 1607 Sir Randall MacDonnell settled 300 Presbyterian Scots families on his land in Antrim.[23] From 1609 onwards, "British" Protestant immigrants arrived in Ulster through direct importation by undertakers to their estates and also by a spread to unpopulated areas, through ports such as Londonderry and Carrickfergus. In addition there was much internal movement of settlers who did not like the original land allotted to them.[24] Most planters settled on uninhabited and unexploited land, often building up their farms and homes on overgrown terrain that has been variously described as “wilderness” and “virgin” ground.[25] By 1622, a survey found there were 6,402 "British" adult males on Plantation lands, of whom 3,100 were English and 3,700 Scottish – indicating a total adult planter population of around 12,000. However another 4,000 Scottish adult males had settled in unplanted Antrim and Down, giving a total settler population of about 19,000.[26] Despite the fact that the Plantation had decreed that the Irish population be displaced, this did not generally happen in practice. Firstly, some 300 native landowners who had taken the English side in the Nine Years War were rewarded with land grants.[27] Secondly, the majority of the Gaelic Irish remained in their native areas, but often on worse land than before the plantation. They usually lived close to and even in the same townlands as the Protestant settlers.[28] The main reason for this was that Undertakers could not import enough English or Scottish tenants to fill their agricultural workforce and had to fall back on Irish tenants.[29] However in a few heavily populated lowland areas (such as parts of north Armagh) it is likely that some population displacement occurred.[30] However, the Plantation remained threatened by the attacks of bandits, known as "wood-kerne", who were often Irish soldiers or dispossessed landowners. In 1609, Chichester had 1,300 former Gaelic soldiers deported from Ulster to serve in the Swedish Army. Not all of the wood kernes' activity targeted the planters however, as they sometimes "robbed and murdered Catholic and Protestant alike".[31][32] As a result, military garrisons were established across Ulster and many of the Plantation towns, notably Derry, were fortified. The settlers were also required to maintain arms and attend an annual military 'muster'.[33] 87 Plantation of Ulster There had been very few towns in Ulster before the Plantation.[34][35] Most modern towns in the province can date their origins back to this period. Plantation towns generally have a single broad main street ending in a square – often known as a "diamond".[36] Success and failures The plantation was a mixed success from the point of view of the settlers. About the time the Plantation of Ulster was planned, the Virginia Plantation at Jamestown in 1607 started. The London guilds planning to fund the Plantation of Ulster switched and backed the London Virginia Company instead. Many "British" Protestant settlers went to Virginia or New England in America rather than to Ulster. By the 1630s, there were 20,000 adult male "British" settlers in Ulster, which meant that the total settler population could have been as high as 80,000. They formed local majorities of the population in the Finn and Foyle valleys (around modern Londonderry and east Donegal), in north Armagh and in east Tyrone. Moreover, the unofficial settlements in Antrim and Down were thriving.[37] What was more, the settler population grew rapidly, as just under half of the planters were women. The attempted conversion of the Irish to Protestantism was generally a failure. One problem was language difference. The Protestant clerics imported were usually all monoglot English speakers, whereas the native population were usually monoglot Gaelic speakers. However, ministers chosen to serve in the plantation were required to take a course in the Irish language before ordination, and nearly 10% of those who took up their preferments spoke it fluently.[38] Nevertheless, conversion was rare, despite the fact that, after 1621, Gaelic Irish natives could be officially classed as "British" if they converted to Protestantism.[39] Of those Catholics who did convert to Protestantism, many made their choice for social and political reasons.[40] Wars of the Three Kingdoms and Ulster Plantation By the 1630s it is suggested that the plantation was settling down with "tacit religious tolerance", and in every county Old Irish were serving as royal officials and members of the Irish Parliament.[41] However, in the 1640s, the Ulster Plantation was thrown into turmoil by civil wars that raged in Ireland, England and Scotland. The wars saw Irish rebellion against the planters, twelve years of bloody war, and ultimately the re-conquest of the province by the English parliamentary New Model Army that confirmed English and Protestant dominance in the province.[42] After 1630, Scottish migration to Ireland waned for a decade. In the 1630s, Presbyterians in Scotland staged a rebellion against Charles I for trying to impose Anglicanism. The same was attempted in Ireland, where most Scots colonists were Presbyterian. A large number of them returned to Scotland as a result. Charles I subsequently raised an army largely composed of Irish Catholics, and sent them to Ulster in preparation to invade Scotland. The English and Scottish parliaments then threatened to attack this army. In the midst of this, Gaelic Irish landowners in Ulster, led by Phelim O'Neill and Rory O'More, planned a rebellion to take over the administration in Ireland.[43] On October 23, 1641, the Ulster Catholics staged a rebellion. The mobilised natives turned on the "British" colonists, massacring about 4000 and expelling about 8,000 more. Marianne Elliott believes that "1641 destroyed the Ulster Plantation as a mixed settlement..."[44] The initial leader of the rebellion, Phelim O'Neill, had actually been a beneficiary of the Plantation land grants. Most of his supporters' families had been dispossessed and were likely motivated by the desire to recover their ancestral lands. Many colonists who survived rushed to the seaports and went back to Britain.[45] The massacres had a devastating and lasting impact on the Ulster Protestant population. A.T.Q. Stewart states that "The fear which it inspired survives in the Protestant subconscious as the memory of the Penal Laws or the Famine persists in the Catholic."[46] He also believed that "Here, if anywhere, the mentality of siege was born, as the warning bonfires blazed from hilltop to hilltop, and the beating drums summoned men to the defence of castles and walled towns crowded with refugees."[47] 88 Plantation of Ulster In the summer of 1642, the Scottish Parliament sent some 10,000 soldiers to quell the Irish rebellion. In revenge for the massacres of Scottish colonists, the army committed many atrocities against the Catholic population. Based in Carrickfergus, the Scottish army fought against the rebels until 1650. In the northwest of Ulster, the colonists around Derry and east Donegal organised the Laggan Army in self-defence. The British forces fought an inconclusive war with the Ulster Irish led by Owen Roe O'Neill. All sides committed atrocities against civilians in this war, exacerbating the population displacement begun by the Plantation.[48] In addition to fighting the Ulster Irish, the "British" settlers fought each other in 1648-49 over the issues of the English Civil War. The Scottish Presbyterian army sided with the King and the Laggan Army sided with the English Parliament. In 1649-50, the New Model Army, along with some of the "British" colonists under Charles Coote, defeated both the Scottish forces and the Ulster Irish.[49] As a result, the English Parliamentarians or Cromwellians (after Oliver Cromwell) were generally hostile to Scottish Presbyterians after they re-conquered Ireland from the Catholic Confederates in 1649-53. The main beneficiaries of the postwar Cromwellian settlement were English Protestants like Sir Charles Coote, who had taken the Parliament's side over the King or the Scottish Presbyterians. The Wars eliminated the last major Catholic landowners in Ulster.[50] Continued migration from Scotland to Ulster Most of the Scottish planters came from southwest Scotland, but many also came from the unstable regions along the border with England. The plan was that moving Borderers (see Border Reivers) to Ireland (particularly to County Fermanagh) would both solve the Border problem and tie down Ulster. This was of particular concern to James VI of Scotland when he became King of England, since he knew Scottish instability could jeopardise his chances of ruling both kingdoms effectively. Another wave of Scottish immigration to Ulster took place in the 1690s, when tens of thousands of Scots fled a famine (1696–1698) in the border region of Scotland. It was at this point that Scottish Presbyterians became the majority community in the province. Whereas in the 1660s, they made up some 20% of Ulster's population (though 60% of its British population) by 1720 they were an absolute majority in Ulster.[51] Despite the fact that Scottish Presbyterians strongly supported the Williamites in the Williamite war in Ireland in the 1690s, they were excluded from power in the postwar settlement by the Anglican Protestant Ascendancy. During the 18th century, rising Scots resentment over religious, political and economic issues fueled their emigration to the American colonies, beginning in 1717 and continuing up to the 1770s. Scots-Irish from Ulster and Scotland, and British from the borders region comprised the most numerous group of immigrants from the British Isles to the colonies in the years before the American Revolution. An estimated 150,000 left northern Ireland. They settled first mostly in Pennsylvania and Virginia, from where they moved southwest into the backcountry of upland territories and the Appalachian Mountains.[52] 89 Plantation of Ulster 90 Legacy The legacy of the Plantation remains disputed. According to one interpretation, it created a society segregated between native Catholics and settler Protestants in Ulster and created a Protestant and British concentration in north east Ireland. This argument therefore sees the Plantation as one of the long-term causes of the Partition of Ireland in 1921, as the north-east remained as part of the United Kingdom in Northern Ireland. However the densest Protestant settlement took place in the eastern counties of Antrim and Down, which were not part of the Plantation, whereas Donegal, in the west, was planted but did not become part of Northern Ireland.[53] Percentage of Catholics in each electoral division in Ulster. Based on census figures from 2001 (UK) and 2006 (ROI). 0-10% dark orange, 10-30% mid orange, 30-50% light orange, 50-70% light green, 70-90% mid green, 90-100% dark green Therefore, it is also argued that the Plantation itself was less important in the distinctiveness of the North East of Ireland than natural population flow between Ulster and Scotland. A.T.Q. Stewart concluded, "The distinctive Ulster-Scottish culture, isolated from the mainstream of Catholic and Gaelic culture, would appear to have been created not by the specific and artificial plantation of the early seventeenth century, but by the continuous natural influx of Scottish settlers both before and after that episode… .”[54] The Plantation of Ulster is also widely seen as the origin of mutually antagonistic Catholic/Irish and Protestant/British identities in Ulster. Richard English has written that, "not all of those of British background in Ireland owe their Irish residence to the Plantations... yet the Plantation did produce a large British/English interest in Ireland, a significant body of Irish Protestants who were tied through religion and politics to English power.[55] However, going on surnames, others have concluded that Protestant and Catholic are poor guides to whether people's ancestors were settlers or natives of Ulster in the 17th century.[56] The settlers also left a legacy in terms of language. The Ulster Scots dialect originated through the speech of lowland Scots settlers evolving and being influenced by both Hiberno-English and Irish Gaelic.[57] Seventeenth century English settlers also contributed dialect words that are still in current use in Ulster.[58] References [1] A.T.Q. Stewart: The Narrow Ground: The Roots of Conflict in Ulster. London, Faber and Faber Ltd. New Edition, 1989. Page 38. Cyril Falls: The Birth of Ulster. London, Constable and Company Ltd. 1996. Pages 156-157. M. Perceval-Maxwell: The Scottish Migration to Ulster in the Reign of James 1. Belfast, Ulster Historical Foundation. 1999. Page 55. [2] T. A. Jackson, p. 51. [3] Edmund Curtis, p. 198. [4] T.W Moody & F.X. Martin, p. 190. [5] BBC History – The Plantation of Ulster – Religion (http:/ / www. bbc. co. uk/ history/ british/ plantation/ planters/ es09. shtml) [6] R. R. Madden, The United Irishmen, Their Lives and Times Vol 1, J.Madden & Co (London 1845), Pg. 2-5. [7] Cyril Falls: The Birth of Ulster.London, Constable and Company Ltd. 1996. Pages 11-12. P. Robinson The Plantation of Ulster. Belfast, Ulster Historical Foundation. 2000. Page 28. Dr. I. Adamson: The Identity of Ulster. Bangor, Pretani Press. Third Impression, 1995. Page 11. [8] See J. Bardon: A History of Ulster. Belfast, Blackstaff Press. New Updated Edition, 2001. Page 75. D.A. Chart: A History of Northern Ireland. The Educational Co. Ltd., 1928, page 18. [9] P. Robinson The Plantation of Ulster. Belfast, Ulster Historical Foundation. 2000. Page 34. Cyril Falls: The Birth of Ulster. London, Constable and Company Ltd. 1996. Page 12. M. Perceval-Maxwell: The Scottish Migration to Ulster in the Reign of James 1. Belfast, Ulster Plantation of Ulster Historical Foundation. 1999. Page 16. [10] J. Bardon: A History of Ulster. Belfast, Blackstaff Press. New Updated Edition, 2001. Pages 76-79, 80-83. Prof. Nicholas Canny. “Reaction of the Natives” (http:/ / www. bbc. co. uk/ history/ british/ plantation/ transcripts/ es05_t03. shtml), BBC. [11] M. Perceval-Maxwell: The Scottish Migration to Ulster in the Reign of James 1. Belfast, Ulster Historical Foundation. 1999. Page 17. [12] History of Ireland in the Eighteenth Centuryvol 1, by W. E. H. Lecky, Longmans, Greens and Co. (London), Pg.4-6 (cabinet ed., 5 vols., London, 1892). [13] Padraig Lenihan, Consolidating Conquest, Ireland 1603-1727, p18-23 [14] Colm Lennon, Sixteenth Century Ireland, the Incomplete Conquest, p301-302 [15] Lenihan p 44-45 [16] Canny, Making Ireland British, p 196-198 [17] A.T.Q. Stewart: The Narrow Ground: The Roots of Conflict in Ulster. London, Faber and Faber Ltd. New Edition, 1989. Page 38. [18] NIcholas Canny, Making Ireland British 189-200 [19] Padraig Lenihan, Consolidating Conquest, Ireland 1603-1727, p48 [20] Lenihan, p46-47 [21] Nicholas Canny, Making Ireland British, 1580-1650, pp 200-201, 208-209 [22] Canny, p202 [23] Marianne Elliott: The Catholics of Ulster: A History. New York, Basic Books. 2001. Page 88. [24] P. Robinson The Plantation of Ulster. Belfast, pp. 118-119, 125-128. [25] A.T.Q. Stewart: The Narrow Ground: The Roots of Conflict in Ulster. pp 40-41. Dr. Raymond Gillespie. “Reaction of the Natives” (http:/ / www. bbc. co. uk/ history/ british/ plantation/ transcripts/ es05_t02. shtml), BBC. J. Bardon: A History of Ulster. pp 178, 314. M. Perceval-Maxwell: The Scottish Migration to Ulster in the Reign of James 1. pp 29, 132. C.A. Hanna: The Scotch-Irish: Or, The Scot in North Britain, North Ireland, and North America. p 182. Cyril Falls: The Birth of Ulster. p 201. [26] All previous figures from Canny, Making Ireland British, p 211 [27] Lenihan p 46 [28] Marianne Elliott. “Personal Perspective” (http:/ / www. bbc. co. uk/ history/ british/ plantation/ perspective/ pp03. shtml), BBC. A.T.Q. Stewart: Pages 24-25. J. Bardon: A History of Ulster. P 131. Cyril Falls: The Birth of Ulster Page 221. M. Perceval-Maxwell: The Scottish Migration to Ulster in the Reign of James 1 P 66. Marianne Elliott: P 88. P. Robinson The Plantation of Ulster. Page 100. [29] Canny, p 233–235 [30] Elliott, p 93. [31] Elliot p 119. [32] Canny p 205–206 [33] Lenihan p 52-53 [34] Cyril Falls: The Birth of Ulster. London, Constable and Company Ltd. 1996. Pages 11. [35] P. Robinson The Plantation of Ulster. p 28. [36] P. Robinson pp.169 and 170. [37] J. Bardon: A History of Ulster. Belfast, Blackstaff Press. New Updated Edition, 2001. Page 123. [38] Padraig O Snodaigh. [39] Lenihan p 49 [40] Marianne Elliott. [41] Marianne Elliott: The Catholics of Ulster: A History. New York, Basic Books. 2001. Page 97. [42] Canny p577-578 [43] Lenihan p91-92 [44] Marianne Elliott: The Catholics of Ulster: A History. New York, Basic Books. 2001. Page 102. [45] Brian MacCuarta,Age of Atrocity p155, Canny p177 [46] A.T.Q. Stewart: The Narrow Ground: The Roots of Conflict in Ulster. London, Faber and Faber Ltd. New Edition, 1989. Page 49. [47] A.T.Q. Stewart: The Narrow Ground: The Roots of Conflict in Ulster. London, Faber and Faber Ltd. New Edition, 1989. Page 52. [48] Lenihan, p111 [49] Micheal O Siochru, God's Executioner, Oliver Cromwell and the Conquest of Ireland, pp99, 128, 144 [50] Lenihan p136-137 [51] Karen Cullen, Famine in Scotland: The 'Ill Years' of the 1690s, p176-179 [52] David Hackett Fischer, Albion's Seed: Four British Folkways in America, New York: Oxford University Press, 1989, pp. 608–11. [53] Interview with Dr. John McCavitt, "Ulster Plantation" (http:/ / www. bbc. co. uk/ northernireland/ talkni/ ask_ulster_plantation. shtml), Talk: Northern Ireland, BBC, accessed 17 Feb 2009 [54] A.T.Q. Stewart: The Narrow Ground: The Roots of Conflict in Ulster. London, Faber and Faber Ltd. New Edition, 1989. Page 39. [55] Richard English, Irish Freedom, A history of Irish Nationalism p. 59. [56] "[J]ust in general terms, it could be pointed out that although surnames are often a guide to our ancestors, they should not always be taken as such... There is more cross breeding in Ulster's history than people imagined. For example, it is often stated that Ken Maginnis surname is closer to original Irish than Martin McGuinness. Another good example is Terence O'Neill former Prime Minister of NI, who is descended from the famous O'Neill clan in Ulster." Interview with Dr. John McCavitt, "Ulster Plantation" (http:/ / www. bbc. co. uk/ northernireland/ 91 Plantation of Ulster talkni/ ask_ulster_plantation. shtml), Talk: Northern Ireland, BBC, accessed 17 Feb 2009 [57] Dr. C.I. Macafee (ed.) Concise Ulster Dictionary. Oxford University Press, 1996. Page xi. [58] Cyril Falls: The Birth of Ulster. London, Constable and Company Ltd. 1996. Pages 231-233. Bibliography • • • • • • • • • • • Adamson, Dr. I.: The Identity of Ulster. Bangor, Pretani Press. Third Impression, 1995. Bardon, J.: A History of Ulster. Belfast, Blackstaff Press. New Updated Edition, 2001. Canny,Nicholas, Making Ireland British 1580-1650, Oxford University Press, Oxford 2003. Chart, D.A.: A History of Northern Ireland. The Educational Co. Ltd., 1928. Cullen, Karen, Famine in Scotland: The 'Ill Years' of the 1690s Curtis, Edmund, A History of Ireland: From Earliest Times to 1922, Routledge (2000 RP), ISBN 0-415-27949-6 Elliott, Marianne The Catholics of Ulster: A History Marianne English, Richard, Irish Freedom, The History of Nationalism in Ireland. MacMillan, London 2006. Falls: Cyril The Birth of Ulster. London, Constable and Company Ltd. 1996. Hanna:C.A. The Scotch-Irish: Or, The Scot in North Britain, North Ireland, and North America. G.P. Putnam's Sons, 1902. • • • • • • Kaufmann: E., The Orange Order: A Contemporary Northern Irish History. Oxford University Press, 2007. Lenihan,Padraig, Consolidating Conquest, Ireland 1603-1727, Pearson, Essex 2008. Lennon, Colm, Sixteenth Century Ireland, the Incomplete Conquest,Gill & MacMillan, Dublin 1994. Macafee, Padraig (ed.) Concise Ulster Dictionary. Oxford University Press, 1996. Madden, R.R. The United Irishmen, Their Lives and Times Vol 1, J.Madden & Co (London 1845), Pg. 2-5. Moody T.W & Martin, F.X., The Course of Irish History, Mercier Press 1984 (Second Edition). ISBN 0-85342-715-1 O Siochru, Micheal, God's Executioner, Oliver Cromwell and the Conquest of Ireland, Faber & Faber,London 2008. O Snodaigh, Padraig, Hidden Ulster, Protestants and the Irish language Perceval-Maxwell, M: The Scottish Migration to Ulster in the Reign of James 1. Belfast, Ulster Historical Foundation. 1999. Robinson, P, The Plantation of Ulster. Belfast, Ulster Historical Foundation. 2000. Stewart,A.T.Q., The Narrow Ground: The Roots of Conflict in Ulster. London, Faber and Faber Ltd. New Edition, 1989. • • • • • External links • "Plantation of Ulster" (http://www.bbc.co.uk/history/british/plantation/), BBC History • Marianne Elliott, Catholics of Ulster: A History (http://www.amazon.com/dp/0465019048) • Tom Hartley, Book Review: Padraig O Snodaigh, Hidden Ulster, Protestants and the Irish Language (http:// www.hartford-hwp.com/archives/61/297.html), 9 Nov 1995 • Text of "Discourse on the mere Irish of Ireland", anon Ms, c.1608 (http://publish.ucc.ie/celt/docs/ E600001-004) 92 Parliament of Ireland 93 Parliament of Ireland Parliament of the Kingdom of Ireland Arms of Ireland Type Type Bicameral1 Houses House of Lords House of Commons Leadership Lord Chancellor The Earl of Clare since 1789 Speaker of the House John Foster since 1785 Timeline Established 1297 Succeeded by Parliament of the United Kingdom Disbanded 31 December 1800 Election House of Lords voting system Ennoblement by the monarch or inheritance of a peerage House of Commons voting system First past the post with limited suffrage Meeting place Irish Houses of Parliament, Dublin Parliament of Ireland 94 See also Parliament of Great Britain Footnotes 1 Reflecting Parliament as it stood in 1800 The Parliament of Ireland (Irish: Parlaimint na hÉireann) was a legislature that existed in Dublin from 1297 until 1800. In its early mediaeval period during the Lordship of Ireland it consisted of either two or three chambers: the House of Commons, elected by a very restricted suffrage, the House of Lords in which the lords temporal of the peerage of Ireland and lords spiritual (higher clergy) were represented (subject to periodic exclusion of Catholic peers) by a third body, a House of Proctors, which consisted of representatives of the lower clergy, which sometimes seems to have sat as a separate house, on other times as part of the House of Commons.[1] The main purpose of parliament was to approve taxes that were then levied by and for the Lordship of Ireland. Those who would pay the bulk of taxation, the clergy, merchants and landowners, naturally comprised the members. In 1541 the parliament voted to create the Kingdom of Ireland. Over the centuries, the Irish parliament met in a number of locations both inside and outside of Dublin - the first place of definitive date and Facade of the Irish Parliament House, in Dublin. place was Castledermot, County Kildare on 18 June 1264 some months Today the building houses a branch of the Bank of Ireland. earlier than the first English Parliament containing elected members. Among its most famous meeting places were Dublin Castle, the Bluecoat School, Chichester House and, its final permanent home, the Irish Parliament House in College Green. Early history Middle Ages The Irish Parliament was formally founded in 1297[2] by the Justiciar, Sir John de Wogan, to represent the Irish and Anglo-Norman population of the Lordship of Ireland. In 1292 a less formal assembly of unelected nobles and merchants had raised £10,000, known as the "lay subsidy". This tax was a fifteenth of the net worth of the chattels of wealthier citizens; the poor and the church were exempted.[3] The Parliament arose from and for citizens of the Lordship of Ireland, based on Norman laws and English practices. Magna Carta was extended in 1217 in the Great Charter of Ireland. Membership was based on fealty to the king, and the preservation of the king's peace, and so the fluctuating number of autonomous Irish Gaelic kings were outside of the system; they had their own local brehon law taxation arrangements. The 14th and 15th centuries saw shrinking numbers of those loyal to the crown, the growing power of landed families, and the increasing inability to carry out judicial rulings, that all reduced the crown's presence in Ireland. Alongside this reduced control grew a "Gaelic resurgence" that was political as well as cultural. In turn this resulted in considerable numbers of the Anglo-Irish Old English nobility joining the independent Gaelic nobles in asserting their feudal independence. Eventually the crown's power shrank to a small fortified enclave around Dublin known as the Pale. The Parliament thereafter became essentially the forum for the Pale community until the 16th century. Parliament of Ireland Unable to implement and exercise the authority of the Parliament or the Crown's rule outside of this environ, and increasingly under the attack of raids by the Gaelic Irish and independent Anglo-Irish nobles, the Palesmen themselves encouraged the Kings of England to take a more direct role in the affairs of Ireland. Geographic distance, the lack of attention by the Crown because of the Hundred Years' War and the Wars of the Roses, and the larger power of the Gaelic clans, all reduced the effectiveness of the Irish Parliament. Thus, increasingly worried that the Irish Parliament was essentially being overawed by powerful landed families in Ireland like the Earl of Kildare into passing laws that pursued the agendas of the different dynastic factions in the country, in 1494, the Parliament encouraged the passing of Poynings' Law which subordinated Irish Parliament to the English one. Kingdom of Ireland The role of the Parliament changed after 1541, when Henry VIII declared the Kingdom of Ireland and embarked on the Tudor conquest of Ireland. Despite an era which featured royal concentration of power and decreasing feudal power throughout the rest of Europe, King Henry VIII overruled earlier court rulings putting families and lands under attainder and recognised the privileges of the Gaelic nobles thereby expanding the crown's de jure authority. In return for recognising the crown's authority under the new Kingdom of Ireland, the Gaelic-Anglo-Irish lords had their position legalised and were entitled to attend the Irish Parliament as equals under the policy of surrender and regrant. The Reformation in Ireland introduced in stages by the Tudor monarchs did not take hold in most of the country, but did not affect the operation of parliament until after the papal bull Regnans in Excelsis of 1570. Initially in 1537, the Irish Parliament approved both the Act of Supremacy, acknowledging Henry VIII as head of the Church and the dissolution of the monasteries.[4] In the parliaments of 1569 and 1585, the Old English Catholic representatives in the Irish Commons had several disputes with the crown's authorities over the introduction of penal legislation against Catholics and over-paying of "Cess" tax for the putting down of various Gaelic and Catholic rebellions.[5] For this reason, and the political fallout after the 1605 Gunpowder plot and the Plantation of Ulster in 1613-15, the constituencies for the Irish House of Commons were changed to give Protestants a majority. The Plantation of Ulster allowed English and Scottish Protestant candidates in as representatives of the newly-formed boroughs in planted areas. Initially this gave Protestants a majority of 132-100 in the House of Commons. However, after vehement Catholic protests, including a brawl in the chamber on Parliament's first sitting, some of the new Parliamentary constituencies were eliminated, giving Protestants a slight majority (108-102) of members of the House of Commons thereafter.[6] In the House of Lords the Catholic majority continued until the 1689 "Patriot Parliament", with the exception of the Commonwealth period (1649–60). Following the general uprising of the Catholic Irish in the Irish Rebellion of 1641 and the self-established Catholic assembly in 1642-49, Roman Catholics were barred from voting or attending the Parliament altogether in the Cromwellian Act of Settlement 1652, which was reversed by the Restoration of Charles II in 1660. 1660 to 1800 Following the death of Cromwell and the end of the Protectorate, the Stuarts returned to the throne thereby ending the sectarian divisions relating to parliament. Then, during the reign of James II of England, who had converted to Roman Catholicism, Irish Catholics briefly recovered their pre-eminent position as the crown now favoured their community. When James was overthrown in England, he turned to his Roman Catholic supporters in the Irish Parliament for support. In return for its support during the Williamite war in Ireland (1688–91), a Roman Catholic majority Patriot Parliament of 1689 persuaded James to pass legislation granting it autonomy to and to restore lands confiscated from Catholics in the Cromwellian conquest of Ireland. The Jacobite defeat in this war meant that under William III of England, Protestants were returned to a favoured position in Irish society while substantial numbers of Catholic nobles and leaders could no longer sit in parliament unless they took a loyalty oath as agreed under the 95 Parliament of Ireland Treaty of Limerick. Having proven their support for Catholic absolutism by their loyal support for James during the war, and because the Papacy supported the Jacobites after 1693, Irish Catholics increasingly faced discriminatory legislation in the Penal Laws that were passed by the predominantly loyalist and Protestant Parliament from 1695. Nonetheless, the franchise was still available to wealthier Catholics. Until 1728, Catholics voted in House of Commons elections and held seats in the Lords. For no particular reason (beyond a general pressure for Catholics to conform), they were barred from voting in the election for the first parliament in the reign of George II. Privileges were also mostly limited to supporters of the Church of Ireland. Protestants who did not recognise the state-supported Church were also discriminated against in law. Non-conformists such as Presbyterians, Congregationalists, and Quakers, also had a subservient status in Parliament; after 1707 they could hold seats, but not hold public office. Thus, the new system favoured a new Anglican establishment in Church and State. By 1728, the remaining nobility was either firmly Protestant or loyal Catholic. The upper classes had dropped most of its Gaelic traditions and adopted the Anglo-French aristocratic values then dominant throughout most of Europe. Much of the old feudal domains of the earlier Anglo-Irish and Gaelic-Irish magnates had been broken up and given to Irish loyalists soldiers, and English and Scottish Protestant colonial settlers. Long under the control of de jure power of magnates, the far larger peasant population had nonetheless under the relatively anarchic and sectarian conditions established a relative independence. Now, the nobility and newly established loyalist gentry could exercise their rights and privileges with more vigour. Much like England, Wales, and Scotland, the franchise was always limited to the property owning classes which favoured the landed gentry . The Irish Parliament was left incapable of protecting Irish economic and trade interests from being subordinated to English ones, at a time of English commercial expansion. This in turn severely weakened the economic potential of the whole of Ireland and placed the new and largely Protestant middle-class at a disadvantage. The result was a slow but continual exodus of Anglo-Irish, Scots-Irish, and Protestant Irish families and communities to the colonies, principally in North America. Ironically, the very efforts to establish Anglicans as the primacy in Ireland, slowly subverted the general cause of the Protestant Irish which had been the objective of successive Irish and British Parliaments. The Anglo-Irish Parliament did assert its independence from London several times however. In the early 18th century it successfully lobbied for Parliament to be called every two years (as opposed to the start of each new reign) and shortly thereafter, it declared itself to be in session permanently, mirroring developments in the English Parliament. As the effects on the general prosperity of the Kingdom by submitting the Irish Parliament to review of the British Parliament became apparent, the Irish Parliament slowly asserted itself, and from the 1770s the Irish Patriot Party began agitating for greater powers relative to the English Parliament. Additionally, later ministries moved to change the Navigation Acts that had limited Irish merchants' terms of trade with Britain and its empire. Powers After 1707, Ireland was, to varying degrees, subordinate to the Kingdom of Great Britain. The Parliament of Ireland had control over only legislation, while the executive branch of government, under the Lord Lieutenant, answered to the British government in London. Furthermore, the Penal Laws meant that Catholics, who constituted the majority of Irish people, were not permitted to sit in, or participate in, elections to the parliament. Meanwhile, building upon the precedent of Poynings' Law which made the Irish legislature subordinate to the Parliament of Great Britain, the Dependency of Ireland on Great Britain Act 1719 forbade the Irish parliament from discussing any bill without the British legislature's prior approval. The effects of this subordination of Irish Parliamentary power soon became evident, as Ireland slowly stagnated economically and the Protestant population shrank in relative size. Additionally, the growing relative wealth of the American colonies, whose local authorities were surprisingly independent of the British Parliament, provided additional ammunition for those who wished to increase Irish Parliamentary power. When the British governments started centralising trade, taxation and judicial review throughout the Empire, the Irish Parliament saw a surprising 96 Parliament of Ireland ally in the American colonies, who were growing increasingly resistant to the British government's objectives. When open rebellion broke out in the American colonies in 1775, the Irish Parliament passed several initiatives which showed support for the American grievances. Fearing another split by Ireland, as rebellion spread through the American colonies and various European powers joined in a global assault on British interests, the British Parliament became more acquiescent to Irish demands. In 1782, following agitation by major parliamentary figures, most notably Henry Grattan, supported by the Patriot movement, the Irish parliament's authority was greatly increased. Under what became known as the Constitution of 1782 the restrictions imposed by Poyning's Law were removed by the Repeal of Act for Securing Dependence of Ireland Act 1782. Grattan also wanted Catholic involvement in Irish politics; in 1793 the parliament copied the British Roman Catholic Relief Act 1791, and Catholics were given back the right to cast votes in elections to the parliament, although they were still debarred from membership and state offices. Organization The House of Lords was presided over by the Lord Chancellor, who sat on the woolsack, a large seat stuffed with wool from each of the three lands of England, Ireland and Scotland. In the Commons, business was presided over by the Speaker who, in the absence of a government chosen from and answerable to the Commons, was the dominant political figure in the parliament. Speaker Conolly remains today one of the most widely known figures produced by the Irish parliament. Much of the public ceremonial in the Irish The Irish House of Commons by Francis Wheatley (1780). parliament mirrored that of the British Parliament. Sessions were formally opened by the Speech from the Throne by the Lord Lieutenant, who, it was written "used to sit, surrounded by more splendour than His Majesty on the throne of England".[7] The Lord Lieutenant, when he sat on the throne, sat beneath a canopy of crimson velvet. At the state opening, MPs were summoned to the House of Lords from the House of Commons chamber by Black Rod, a royal official who would "command the members on behalf of His Excellency to attend him in the chamber of peers". 97 Parliament of Ireland Sessions of Parliament drew many of the wealthiest of Ireland's Anglo-Irish elite to Dublin, particularly as sessions often coincided with the social season, (January to 17 March) when the Lord Lieutenant presided in state over state balls and drawing rooms in the Viceregal Apartments in Dublin Castle. Leading peers in particular flocked to Dublin, where they lived in enormous and richly decorated mansions initially on the northside of Dublin, later in new Georgian residences around Merrion Square and Fitzwilliam Square. Their presence in Dublin, along with large numbers of servants, provided a regular boost to the city economy. 98 Engraving of section of the Irish House of Commons chamber by Peter Mazell based on the drawing by Rowland Omer 1767 The Parliament's records were published from the 1750s and provide a huge wealth of commentary and statistics on the reality of running Ireland at the time.[8] In particular, minute details on Ireland's increasing overseas trade and reports from various specialist committees are recorded. By the 1780s they were published by two rival businesses, King & Bradley and Grierson.[9] The Act of Union and abolition Engraving of section of the Irish House of Lords chamber by Peter Mazell based In 1801, the Parliament of Ireland was on the drawing by Rowland Omer 1767 abolished entirely, when the Act of Union created the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland and merged the British and Irish legislatures into a single Parliament of the United Kingdom. The idea of a political union between Ireland and Great Britain had been proposed several times throughout the 18th century, but was vehemently opposed in Ireland.[10] The granting of legislative independence to Ireland in 1782, was thought to have ended hopes of a union.[10] Relations between the two parliaments became strained in 1789 during the illness of King George III, when the Irish parliament invited the Prince of Wales to become the Regent of Ireland, before Westminster had been able to make its own decision on the matter.[11] The Irish Rebellion of 1798 saw a French expedition landing in Killala, causing alarm that Ireland could be used as a base for attacks on Britain, resurrecting the idea of political union between Ireland and Great Britain.[10] The British Prime Minister, William Pitt the Younger had the strong support of King George III for a union, with the king advising himt on 13 July 1798 that the rebellion should be used "for frightening the supporters of the Castle into a Union".[11] The Protestant Ascendancy was also seen as being unequal in the task of governing Ireland, and that such a "corrupt, dangerous and inefficient system" had to be done away with.[11] In June 1798, Lord Cornwallis, was appointed Viceroy of Ireland, with one of his main tasks to be securing support in Ireland for a union.[10][11] Cornwallis would report that "The mass of the people of Ireland do not care one Parliament of Ireland farthing about the Union".[10] For the idea to succeed, Pitt knew that he needed large scale public support in Ireland for the idea from both Protestants and Catholics, and as such Catholic Emancipation would need to be delivered along with the union.[10] Catholic Emancipation alone he knew would be enough to secure the stability of Ireland.[11] The Catholic middle classes and the Catholic hierarchy, led by John Thomas Troy, the Archbishop of Dublin, were willing to support the union if Catholic Emancipation did indeed follow. Only a group of Catholic barristers, most notably Daniel O'Connell, opposed the idea of union.[10][11] For Protestants, the Presbyterians, who were largely involved in the rebellion of 1798 would shed no tears over the end of the Irish parliament. The Orange Order tried to be neutral on the issue of union, however thirty-six lodges from counties Armagh and Louth alone petitioned against the Union.[11] The fear for some Protestants, especially those part of the Protestant Ascendancy, was that Catholic emancipation would immediately follow any union.[11] The artisans and merchants of Dublin also feared any union as it may have resulted in a loss of business.[11] When William Pitt's idea of union and emancipation was revealed to the cabinet of the Irish parliament, the Speaker and Chancellor of the Exchequer both vehemently opposed it.[11] The rest of the cabinet supported the idea however were split on the issue of Catholic Emancipation, resulting in it being dropped from the proposals.[11] Cornwallis observed: "I certainly wish that England could now make a union with the Irish nation, instead of making it with a party in Ireland".[11] Any union between Ireland and Great Britain would have to be in the form of a treaty in all but name, meaning that any act of union would need to be passed separately in both the Dublin and Westminster parliaments.[11] There was strong support for it in Westminster, however Dublin however was not as keen.[11] An amendment was moved on 22 January 1799, seeking the House to maintain "the undoubted birthright of the people of Ireland to have a free and independent legislature".[11] The debate which followed consisted of eighty speeches, made over the course of twenty-one uninterrupted hours.[11] The next day a vote was held which resulted in a defeat of the amendment by one vote (106 to 105), however the following day another motion against any union passed 111 to 106.[11] Following these votes, Lord Castlereagh and Lord Cornwallis set about trying to win over as many Irish MPs as possible through bribery consisting of jobs, pensions, peerages, promotions, along with other enticements.[10][11] These methods were all legal and not unusual for the time.[11] They also spent over £1,250,000 buying the support of those who held the seats of boroughs and counties.[10][11] When parliament reopened on 15 January 1800, high levels of passion ran throughout, and angry speeches were delivered by proponents on both sides.[11] Henry Grattan, who had helped secure the Irish parliament's legislative independence in 1782, bought Wicklow borough at midnight for £1,200, and after dressing in his old Volunteer uniform, arrived at the House of Commons of the Irish parliament at 7 a.m., after which he gave a two hour speech against the union.[11] Regardless, a motion against the union failed by 138 votes to 96, and resolutions in favour of the union were passed with large majorities in both chambers of parliament.[11] The terms of the union were agreed on 28 March 1800 by both houses of the Irish Parliament.[10] Identical bills were proposed in both the British and Irish parliaments, with the British Act of Union becoming law on 2 July 1800, and royal assent given to the Irish Act of Union on 1 August 1800.[10] The Irish Parliament met for the last time the following day. On 1 January 1801, the Act of Union came into force.[10][11] 99 Parliament of Ireland References [1] The status of the Proctors remains unclear. What is clear, however, is that their parliamentary votes, either as a separate house or as members of the Lords or Commons, were abolished finally by King Henry VIII's Council in 1537 to secure passage of the Act of the Supreme Head (Act of Supremacy), which the proctors had been outspoken critics of. It also enabled the enactment of an Act allowing Henry and his successors a claim to one twentieth of church revenues, as well as abolishing appeals to the Pope in Rome. It was ruled that the proctors' role had previously been meant to have been counsellors or assistants, though in practice they had evolved into voting members in parliament, and that they should be returned to their previous role. Their demotion secured the passage of key Acts in October 1537. Thomas Moore, Ireland: From the earliest kings of that realm down to its last chief. Vol III Longman, Brown, Green and Longmans, 1846. Cabinet Cyclopaedia. pp.298-299. [2] Moody, TW & Martin, FX (eds) (1967). The Course of Irish History. Cork, Ireland: The Mercier Press. pp. 370. [3] Mark Hennessey research (http:/ / www. tcd. ie/ longroomhub/ news/ initiative-funding/ ) and a 1954 article (http:/ / www. jstor. org/ pss/ 2853959) [4] Colm Lennon, Sixteenth Century Ireland - The Incomplete Conquest (1994), p113, 140 [5] Lennon pp. 183, 206 [6] http:/ / www. theirishstory. com/ 2011/ 02/ 25/ election-day-1613/ [7] Unsourced eighteenth century quote used in the Bank of Ireland, College Green, an information leaflet produced by the Bank of Ireland about the Irish Houses of Parliament. [8] Johnson-Liik, E.M. History of the Irish Parliament (6 vols.) Belfast 2002 [9] See Cullen, Louis; "An Economic History of Ireland since 1660" (1972) [10] "The Union" (http:/ / multitext. ucc. ie/ d/ The_Union). University College Cork. . Retrieved 21 October 2011. [11] "Act of Union" (http:/ / www. actofunion. ac. uk/ actofunion. htm). Queen's University Belfast. . Retrieved 21 October 2011. 100 Great Famine (Ireland) 101 Great Famine (Ireland) Great Famine an Gorta Mór Skibbereen 1847 by Cork artist James Mahony (1810–1879), commissioned by Illustrated London News, 1847 Country United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland Location Ireland Period 1845–1852 Total deaths 1 million Observations Policy failure, potato blight, Corn Laws Relief Impact on demographics Consequences Website see below Population fell by 20–25% due to mortality and emigration Permanent change in the country's demographic, political and cultural landscape List of memorials to the Great Famine Preceded by Irish Famine (1740–1741) Succeeded by Irish Famine, 1879 (An Gorta Beag) In Ireland, the Great Famine was a period of mass starvation, disease and emigration between 1845 and 1852.[1] It is also known, mostly outside Ireland, as the Irish Potato Famine.[2] In the Irish language it is called an Gorta Mór (IPA: [ənˠ ˈɡɔɾˠtˠə ˈmˠoːɾˠ], meaning "the Great Hunger")[3] or an Drochshaol (Irish pronunciation: [ənˠ ˈdˠɾɔxˌhiːlˠ], meaning "the bad times"). During the famine approximately 1 million people died and a million more emigrated from Ireland,[4] causing the island's population to fall by between 20% and 25%.[5] The proximate cause of famine was a potato disease commonly known as potato blight.[6] Although blight ravaged potato crops throughout Europe during the 1840s, the impact and human cost in Ireland – where one-third of the population was entirely dependent on the potato for food – was exacerbated by a host of political, social and economic factors which remain the subject of historical debate.[7][8] The famine was a watershed in the history of Ireland.[9] Its effects permanently changed the island's demographic, political and cultural landscape. For both the native Irish and those in the resulting diaspora, the famine entered folk memory[10] and became a rallying point for various nationalist movements as the whole island was then part of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland. Modern historians regard it as a dividing line in the Irish historical narrative, referring to the preceding period of Irish history as "pre-Famine". Great Famine (Ireland) Causes and contributing factors Starting in 1801, Ireland had been directly governed, under the Act of Union, as part of the United Kingdom. Executive power lay in the hands of the Lord Lieutenant of Ireland and Chief Secretary for Ireland, both of whom were appointed by the British government. Ireland sent 105 members of parliament to the House of Commons of the United Kingdom, and Irish representative peers elected 28 of their own number to sit for life in the House of Lords. Between 1832 and 1859, 70% of Irish representatives were landowners or the sons of landowners.[11] In the 40 years that followed the union, successive British governments grappled with the problems of governing a country which had, as Benjamin Disraeli put it in 1844, "a starving population, an absentee aristocracy, and an alien Church, and in addition the weakest executive in the world."[12] One historian calculated that between 1801 and 1845, there had been 114 commissions and 61 special committees enquiring into the state of Ireland and that "without exception their findings prophesied disaster; Ireland was on the verge of starvation, her population rapidly increasing, three-quarters of her labourers unemployed, housing conditions appalling and the standard of living unbelievably low."[13] Laws that restricted the rights of Irish Catholics In the 17th and 18th centuries, Irish Catholics had been prohibited by the penal laws from owning land, from leasing land; from voting, from holding political office; from living in a corporate town or within 5 mi (unknown operator: u'strong' km) of a corporate town, from obtaining education, from entering a profession, and from doing many other things that are necessary in order to succeed and prosper in life. The laws had largely been reformed by 1793, and in 1829, Irish Catholics could again sit in parliament following the Act of Emancipation.[14] Landlords and tenants During the 18th century, a new system for managing the landlord's property was introduced in the form of the "middleman system". Rent collection was left in the hands of the landlords' agents, or middlemen. This assured the (usually Protestant) landlord of a regular income, and relieved them of any responsibility; the tenants however were then subject to exploitation through these middlemen. Catholics made up 80% of the population, the bulk of whom lived in conditions of poverty and insecurity despite Catholic emancipation in 1829. At the top of the "social pyramid" was the "ascendancy class", the English and Anglo-Irish families who owned most of the land, and who had more or less limitless power over their tenants. Some of their estates were vast: the Earl of Lucan owned over 60000 acres (unknown operator: u'strong' km2). Many of these landlords lived in England and were called "absentee landlords". The rent revenue was sent to England,[15] collected from "impoverished tenants" paid minimal wages to raise crops and livestock for export.[16] In 1843, the British Government considered that the land question in Ireland was the root cause of disaffection in the country. They set up a Royal Commission, chaired by the Earl of Devon, to enquire into the laws with regard to the occupation of land in Ireland. Daniel O'Connell described this commission as perfectly one-sided, being made up of landlords and no tenants.[17] Devon in February 1845 reported that "It would be impossible adequately to describe the privations which they [Irish labourer and his family] habitually and silently endure . . . in many districts their only food is the potato, their only beverage water . . . their cabins are seldom a protection against the weather... a bed or a blanket is a rare luxury . . . and nearly in all their pig and a manure heap constitute their only property." The Commissioners concluded that they could not "forbear expressing our strong sense of the patient endurance which the labouring classes have exhibited under sufferings greater, we believe, than the people of any other country in Europe have to sustain."[18] The Commission stated that the principal cause was the bad relations between the landlord and tenant. There was no hereditary loyalty, feudal tie or paternalism as existed in England. Ireland was a conquered country, with the Earl of Clare speaking of the landlords saying "confiscation is their common title." According to the historian Cecil 102 Great Famine (Ireland) Woodham-Smith, the landlords regarded the land as a source of income from which to extract as much money as possible. With the Irish "brooding over their discontent in sullen indignation" according to the Earl of Clare, Ireland was seen as a hostile place in which to live, and as a consequence absentee landlords were common, with some visiting their property once or twice in a lifetime, or never. The rents from Ireland were then spent in England, it being estimated that in 1842 £6,000,000 was remitted out of Ireland. According to Woodham-Smith, the ability of the middlemen was measured by the amount of money they could contrive to extract.[19] Described by the Commission as "the most oppressive species of tyrant that ever lent assistance to the destruction of a country," they were invariably described as "land sharks" and "bloodsuckers."[20] The middlemen leased large tracts of land from the landlords on long leases with fixed rents, which they then sublet as they saw fit. They split the holding into smaller and smaller parcels to increase the amounts of rents they could then obtain, a system called conacre. Tenants could be evicted for reasons such as non-payment of rents (which were very high), or if the landlord decided to raise sheep instead of grain crops. The cottier paid his rent by working for the landlord.[21] Any improvements made on the holdings by the tenants became the property of the landlords when the lease expired or was terminated, which acted as a disincentive to improvements. The tenants had no security of tenure on the land; being tenants "at will" they could be turned out whenever the landlord chose. This class of tenant made up the majority of tenant farmers in Ireland, the exception being in Ulster where there existed a practice known as "tenant right", under which tenants were compensated for any improvements made to their holdings. The commission according to Woodham-Smith stated that "the superior prosperity and tranquility of Ulster, compared with the rest of Ireland, were due to tenant right."[20] Landlords in Ireland used their powers without remorse, and the people lived in dread of them. In these circumstances, Woodham-Smith writes "industry and enterprise were extinguished and a peasantry created which was one of the most destitute in Europe."[18] Tenants, subdivisions, and bankruptcy In 1845, 24% of all Irish tenant farms were of 0.4–2 hectares (1–5 acres) in size, while 40% were of 2–6 hectares (5–15 acres). Holdings were so small that no other crop than potatoes would suffice to feed a family, nor could ranching be a possibility due to the limited land. The British government reported, shortly before the famine, that poverty was so widespread that one-third of all Irish small holdings could not support their families, after paying their rent, except by earnings of seasonal migrant labour in England and Scotland.[22] Following the famine, reforms were implemented making it illegal to further divide land holdings.[23] The 1841 census showed a population of just over eight million. Two-thirds of those depended on agriculture for their survival, but they rarely received a working wage. They had to work for their landlords in return for the patch of land they needed in order to grow enough food for their own families. This was the system which forced Ireland and its peasantry into monoculture, as only the potato could be grown in sufficient quantity. The rights to a plot of land in Ireland could mean the difference between life and death in the early 19th century.[16] Potato dependency The potato was introduced to Ireland as a garden crop of the gentry. By the late 17th century, it had become widespread as a supplementary rather than a principal food, as the main diet still revolved around butter, milk, and grain products. In the first two decades of the 18th century, however, it became a base food of the poor, especially in winter.[24] The expansion of the economy between 1760 and 1815 saw the potato make inroads in the diet of the people and became a staple food all the year round for farmers.[25] The large dependency on this single crop was one of the reasons why the emergence of Phytophthora infestans had such devastating effects in Ireland, and had far less effects in other European countries (which were also hit by the fungus).[26] The potato's spread was essential to the development of the cottier system, delivering an extremely cheap workforce, but at the cost of lower living standards. For the labourer, it was essentially a potato wage that shaped the expanding 103 Great Famine (Ireland) 104 agrarian economy.[25] The expansion of tillage led to an inevitable expansion of the potato acreage and an expansion of peasant farmers. By 1841, there were over half a million peasant farmers, with 1.75 million dependants. The principal beneficiary of this system was the English consumer.[25] The Celtic grazing lands of... Ireland had been used to pasture cows for centuries. The British colonised... the Irish, transforming much of their countryside into an extended grazing land to raise cattle for a hungry consumer market at home... The British taste for beef had a devastating impact on the impoverished and disenfranchised people of... Ireland... Pushed off the best pasture land and forced to farm smaller plots of marginal land, the Irish turned to the potato, a crop that could be grown abundantly in less favorable soil. Eventually, cows took over much of Ireland, leaving the native population virtually dependent on the potato for survival.[27] The potato was also used extensively as a fodder crop for livestock immediately prior to the famine. Approximately 33% of production, amounting to 5000000 short tons (unknown operator: u'strong' t), was normally used in this way.[28] Year Estimated potato produce [29] (in thousands of tons) 1844 14,862 1845 10,063 1846 2,999 1847 2,046 1848 3,077[1] 1849 4,024 1855 6,287 1856 4,419 1859 4,321 [1] The 1848 figures are based on extrapolation from incomplete returns. Great Famine (Ireland) 105 Blight in Ireland Prior to the arrival in Ireland of the disease Phytophthora infestans, commonly known as blight, there were only two main potato plant diseases.[30] One was called 'dry rot' or 'taint' and the other was a virus, known popularly as 'curl'.[30][31] Phytophthora infestans is an oomycete (not a fungus).[32] In 1851, the Census of Ireland Commissioners recorded 24 failures of the potato crop going back to 1728, of varying severity. In 1739, the crop was "entirely destroyed", and again in 1740. In 1770, the crop largely failed again. In 1800, there was another "general" failure, and in 1807, 50% of the crop was lost. In 1821 and 1822, the potato crop failed completely in Munster and Connaught, and 1830 and 1831 were years of failure in Mayo, Donegal and Galway. In 1832, 1833, 1834 and 1836, a large number of districts suffered serious loss, and in 1835, the potato failed in Ulster. 1836 and 1837 brought "extensive" failures throughout Ireland and again in 1839 failure was universal throughout the country; both 1841 and 1844 potato crop failure was widespread. According to Woodham-Smith, "the unreliability of the potato crop was an accepted fact in Ireland.[33] How and when the blight Phytophthora infestans arrived in Europe is still uncertain; according to P.M.A Bourke,[34] however, it almost certainly was not present prior to 1842, and probably arrived in 1844. The origin of the fungus has been traced to Toluca Valley of Mexico,[35] from whence it spread first to North America and then to Europe[34] An 1849 depiction of Bridget O'Donnell and her two children during the famine. In 1844, Irish newspapers carried reports concerning a disease which for two years had attacked the potato crops in America.[31] According to James Donnelly, a likely source was the eastern United States, where in 1843 and 1844 blight largely destroyed the potato crops. He suggests that ships from Baltimore, Philadelphia or New York could have brought diseased potatoes to European ports.[36] W.C. Paddock suggests that it was transported on potatoes being carried to feed passengers on clipper ships sailing from America to Ireland.[32] Once it was introduced, it spread rapidly. By late summer and early autumn of 1845, it had spread throughout the greater part of northern and central Europe. Belgium, Holland, northern France and southern England by mid-August had all been stricken.[37] On August 16, the Gardeners' Chronicle and Horticultural Gazette printed a report which described 'a blight of unusual character' in the Isle of Wight. A week later, on 23 August, it reported that 'A fearful malady has broken out among the potato crop... In Belgium the fields are said to be completely desolated. There is hardly a sound sample in Covent Garden market... As for cure for this distemper, there is none...'[38] These reports were extensively covered in Irish newspapers.[39] On 13 September[40] the Gardeners' Chronicle made 'a dramatic announcement': 'We stop the Press with very great regret to announce that the potato Murrain has unequivocally declared itself in Ireland.' The British Government were nevertheless optimistic through the next few weeks.[38] Crop loss in 1845 has been estimated at anywhere from one third[6] to as high as one half of cultivated acreage[41]. The Mansion House Committee in Dublin, to which hundreds of letters were directed from all over Ireland, claimed on November 19, 1845 to have ascertained beyond the shadow of doubt that 'considerably more than one-third of the entire of the potato crop ... has been already destroyed'.[37] In 1846, three quarters of the harvest was lost to blight.[42] By December, a third of a million destitute people were employed in public works.[43] According to Cormac Ó Gráda the first attack of potato blight caused considerable hardship in rural Ireland, from the autumn of 1846, when the first deaths from starvation were recorded.[44] Seed Great Famine (Ireland) potatoes were scarce in 1847, little had been sown, so despite average yields, hunger continued. 1848 yields would be only two thirds of normal. As over 3 million Irish people were totally dependent on potatoes for food, hunger and famine were inevitable.[42] Reaction in Ireland The Corporation of Dublin sent a memorial to the Queen, "praying her" to call Parliament together early (Parliament was at this time prorogued), and to recommend the requisition of some public money for public works, especially railways in Ireland. The Town Council of Belfast met and made similar suggestions, but neither body asked for charity, according to Mitchel. "They demanded that, if Ireland was indeed an Integral part of the realm, the common exchequer of both islands should be used—not to give alms, but to provide employment on public works of general utility." It was Mitchel's opinion that "if Yorkshire and Lancashire had sustained a like calamity in England, there is no doubt such measures as these would have been taken, promptly and liberally."[45] A deputation from the citizens of Dublin, including the Duke of Leinster, the Lord Mayor, Lord Cloncurry, and Daniel O'Connell, went to the current Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, and offered suggestions, such as opening the ports to foreign corn for a time, stopping distillation from grain, or providing public works; that this was extremely urgent, as millions of people would shortly be without food. Lord Heytesbury told them they "were premature", and told them not to be alarmed, that learned men (Playfair and Lindley) had been sent from England to enquire into all those matters; and that the Inspectors of Constabulary and Stipendiary Magistrates were charged with making constant reports from their districts; and there was no "immediate pressure on the market".[45] Of these reports from Lord Heytesbury, Peel in a letter to Sir James Graham was to say that he found the accounts "very alarming", though he reminded him that there was, according to Woodham-Smith "always a tendency to exaggeration in Irish news".[46] On December 8, 1845, Daniel O'Connell, in the Repeal Association, proposed the following remedies to the pending disaster. One of the first things he suggested was the introduction of "Tenant-Right" as practised in Ulster, giving the landlord a fair rent for his land, but giving the tenant compensation for any money he might have laid out on the land in permanent improvements.[47] O'Connell then pointed out the means used by the Belgian legislature during the same season: shutting their ports against the export of provisions, but opening them to imports. He suggested that if Ireland had a domestic Parliament the ports would be thrown open and the abundant crops raised in Ireland would be kept for the people of Ireland. O'Connell maintained that only an Irish parliament would provide for the people both food and employment, saying that a repeal of the Act of Union was a necessity and Ireland's only hope.[47] 106 Great Famine (Ireland) John Mitchel, one of the leading political writers of Young Ireland, as early as 1844, in The Nation raised the issue of the "Potato Disease" in Ireland noting how powerful an agent hunger had been in certain revolutions.[48] On February 14, 1846, he put forward his views on "the wretched way in which the famine was being trifled with", and asked, had not the Government even yet any conception that there might be soon "millions of human beings in Ireland having nothing to eat."[49] On February 28, writing on the Coercion Bill which was then going through the House of Lords, he noted that this was the only kind of legislation that was sure to meet with no obstruction in the British House of Commons. His view was that however the government may differ about feeding the Irish people, "they agree most cordially in the policy of taxing, prosecuting and ruining them."[50] (As it happened, the bill was subsequently defeated, and Peel's government fell.) In an article on "English Rule" on March 7, Mitchel wrote that the Irish People were "expecting famine day by day" and they attributed it collectively, not to "the rule of heaven as to the greedy and cruel policy John Mitchel of England." He continued in the same article to write that the people "believe that the season as they roll are but ministers of England's rapacity; that their starving children cannot sit down to their scanty meal but they see the harpy claw of England in their dish." The people, Mitchel wrote, watched as their "food melting in rottenness off the face of the earth," all the while watching "heavy-laden ships, freighted with the yellow corn their own hands have sown and reaped, spreading all sail for England."[50] Mitchel later wrote one of the first widely circulated tracts on the famine, The Last Conquest of Ireland (Perhaps) in 1861. It established the widespread view that the treatment of the famine by the British was a deliberate murder of the Irish, and contained the famous phrase: The Almighty, indeed, sent the potato blight, but the English created the Famine."[51] Mitchel was charged with sedition because of his writings, but this charge was dropped and he was convicted by a packed jury under the newly enacted Treason Felony Act and sentenced to 14 years transportation to Bermuda.[52] The Nation according to Charles Gavan Duffy, insisted that the one remedy was that which the rest of Europe had adopted, which even the parliaments of the Pale had adopted in periods of distress, which was to retain in the country the food raised by her people till the people were fed.[53] Ireland at this time was, according to the Act of Union of 1801, an integral part of the British imperial homeland, "the richest empire on the globe," and was "the most fertile portion of that empire," in addition; Ireland was sheltered by both "... Habeas Corpus and trial by jury ...".[54] And yet Ireland's elected representatives seemed powerless to act on the country's behalf as Members of the British Parliament. Commenting on this at the time John Mitchel wrote: "That an island which is said to be an integral part of the richest empire on the globe ... should in five years lose two and a half millions of its people (more than one fourth) by hunger, and fever the consequence of hunger, and flight beyond sea to escape from hunger ..."[54] The period of the potato blight in Ireland from 1845 to 1851 was full of political confrontation.[11] A more radical Young Ireland group seceded from the Repeal movement and attempted an armed rebellion in the Young Irelander Rebellion of 1848. It was unsuccessful. 107 Great Famine (Ireland) Government response F.S.L. Lyons characterised the initial response of the British government to the early less severe phase of the famine as "prompt and relatively successful."[55] Confronted by widespread crop failure in the autumn of 1845, Prime Minister Sir Robert Peel purchased £100,000 worth of maize and cornmeal secretly from America. Baring Brothers & Co initially acted as purchasing agents for the Prime Minister. The government hoped that they would not "stifle private enterprise" and that their actions would not act as a disincentive to local relief efforts. Due to weather conditions, the first shipment did not arrive in Ireland until the beginning of February 1846.[56] The maize corn was then re-sold for a penny a pound.[57] The corn when it arrived had not been ground and was inedible , and this task involved a long and complicated process if it was to be done correctly and it was unlikely to be carried out locally. In addition, before the cornmeal could be consumed, it had to be 'very much' cooked again, or eating it could result in severe bowel complaints.[56] Because of maize's (commonly) yellow colour, and the fact that it had to be ground twice, it became known in Ireland as 'Peel's brimstone'. In 1846, Peel then moved to repeal the Corn Laws, tariffs on grain which kept the price of bread artificially high. The famine situation worsened during 1846 and the repeal of the Corn Laws in that year did little to help the starving Irish; the measure split the Conservative Party, leading to the fall of Peel's ministry.[58] In March, Peel set up a programme of public works in Ireland but was forced to resign as Prime Minister on 29 June."[59] This fall came on June 25, when he was defeated in the House of Commons on a motion that the Irish Coercion Bill be read a second time. According to Michael Doheny, the majority against him was 73, and it was made of the "Whig party, the extreme Conservatives, the ultra-Radicals and Irish Repealers." Ten days after, Lord John Russell assumed the seals of office.[60] The measures undertaken by Peel's successor, Lord John Russell, proved comparatively "inadequate" as the crisis deepened. Russell's ministry introduced public works projects, which by December 1846 employed some half million Irish and proved impossible to administer.[61] Sir Charles Trevelyan, who was in charge of the administration of Government relief to the victims of the Irish Famine, limited the Government's actual relief because he thought "the judgement of God sent the calamity to teach the Irish a lesson". For his policy, he was commemorated in the song The Fields of Athenry. The Public Works were "strictly ordered" to be unproductive—that is, they would create no fund to repay their own expenses. Many hundreds of thousands of "feeble and starving men" according to John Mitchel, were kept digging holes, and breaking up roads, which was doing no service.[62] The new Lord John Russell Whig administration, influenced by their laissez-faire belief that the market would provide the food needed but at the same time ignoring the food exports to England,[63] then halted government food and relief works, leaving many hundreds of thousands of people without any work, money or food.[64] In January, the government abandoned these projects and turned to a mixture of "indoor" and "outdoor" direct relief; the former administered in workhouses through the Poor Law, the latter through soup kitchens. The costs of the Poor Law A memorial to the victims of the Doolough Tragedy (30 March fell primarily on the local landlords, who in turn 1849). In order to continue receiving relief, hundreds were instructed attempted to reduce their liability by evicting their to travel many miles in bad weather. A large number died on the [61] journey. tenants. This was then facilitated through the "Cheap Ejectment Acts."[62] The poor law amendment act was passed in June 1847. According to James Donnelly in Fearful Realities: New Perspectives on the Famine,[65] it embodied the principle popular in Britain that Irish property must support Irish poverty. The landed proprietors in Ireland were held in Britain to have created the conditions that led to the famine. It was asserted however, that the British parliament since the Act of Union of 1800 was partly to blame.[65] This point was raised in the Illustrated 108 Great Famine (Ireland) 109 London News on 13 February 13, 1847, "There was no laws it would not pass at their request, and no abuse it would not defend for them." On the 24 March The Times reported that Britain had permitted in Ireland "a mass of poverty, disaffection, and degradation without a parallel in the world. It allowed proprietors to suck the very life-blood of that wretched race."[65] The "Gregory clause" of the Poor Law prohibited anyone who held at least ¼ of an acre from receiving relief.[61] This in practice meant that if a farmer, having sold all his produce to pay rent, duties, rates and taxes, should be reduced, as many thousands of them were, to applying for public outdoor relief, he would not get it until he had first delivered up all his land to the landlord. Of this Law Mitchel was to write: "it is the able-bodied idler only who is to be fed — if he attempted to till but one rood of ground, he dies." This simple method of ejectment was called "passing paupers through the workhouse" — a man went in, a pauper came out.[62] These factors combined to drive thousands of people off the land: 90,000 in 1849, and 104,000 in 1850.[61] Food exports to England Records show Irish lands exported food even during the worst years of the Famine. When Ireland had experienced a famine in 1782–1783, ports were closed to keep Irish-grown food in Ireland to feed the Irish. Local food prices promptly dropped. Merchants lobbied against the export ban, but government in the 1780s overrode their protests. No such export ban happened in the 1840s.[66] Cecil Woodham-Smith, an authority on the Irish Famine, wrote in The Great Hunger; Ireland 1845–1849 that no issue has provoked so much anger and embittered relations between England and Ireland as "the indisputable fact that huge quantities of food were exported from Ireland to England throughout the period when the people of Ireland were dying of starvation." Ireland remained a net exporter of food throughout most of the five-year famine.[67] Christine Kinealy writes that Irish exports of calves, livestock (except pigs), bacon and ham actually increased during the famine. The food was shipped under guard from the most famine-stricken parts of Ireland. However, the poor had no money to buy food and the government then did not ban exports.[68] The following poem written by Miss Jane Francesca Elgee (later Lady Wilde), a well known and popular author, was carried in The Nation:[69] Weary men, what reap ye? Golden corn for the stranger. What sow ye? Human corpses that wait for the avenger. Fainting forms, Hunger-stricken, what see you in the offing Stately ships to bear our food away, amid the stranger's scoffing. There's a proud array of soldiers—what do they round your door? They guard our master's granaries from the thin hands of the poor. Pale mothers, wherefore weeping? 'Would to God that we were dead— Our children swoon before us, and we cannot give them bread.[70] Speranza[71] Charity William Smith O'Brien, speaking on the subject of charity in a speech to the Repeal Association, February 1845, applauded the fact that the universal sentiment on the subject of charity was that they would accept no English charity. He expressed the view that the resources of this country were still abundantly adequate to maintain the population and that until those resources had been utterly exhausted, he hoped that there was no one in "Ireland who will so degrade himself as to ask the aid of a subscription from England".[45] Mitchel wrote in his The Last Conquest of Ireland (Perhaps), on the same subject, that no one from Ireland ever asked for charity during this period, and that it was England who sought charity on Ireland's behalf, and, having received it, was also responsible for administering it. He suggested that it has been carefully inculcated by the British Great Famine (Ireland) Press, "that the moment Ireland fell into distress, she became an abject beggar at England's gate, and that she even craved alms from all mankind." He affirmed that in Ireland no one ever asked alms or favours of any kind from England or any other nation, but that it was England herself that begged for Ireland. He suggested that it was England that "sent 'round the hat over all the globe, asking a penny for the love of God to relieve the poor Irish," and constituting herself the agent of all that charity, took all the profit of it.[47] Large sums of money were donated by charities; Calcutta is credited with making the first donation of £14,000. The money was raised by Irish soldiers serving there and Irish people employed by the East India Company. Pope Pius IX sent funds and Queen Victoria donated £2,000. Quaker and Irish politician Alfred Webb later wrote: Upon the famine arose the wide spread system of proselytism ... and a network of well-intentioned Protestant associations spread over the poorer parts of the country, which in return for soup and other help endeavoured to gather the people into their churches and schools...The movement left seeds of bitterness that have not yet died out, and Protestants, and not altogether excluding Friends, sacrificed much of the influence for good they might have had..."[72] In addition to the religious, non-religious organisations came to the assistance of famine victims. The British Relief Association was one such group. Founded in 1847, the Association raised money throughout England, America and Australia; their funding drive benefited by a "Queen's Letter", a letter from Queen Victoria appealing for money to relieve the distress in Ireland.[73] With this initial letter the Association raised £171,533. A second, somewhat less successful "Queen's Letter" was issued in late 1847. In total, the British Relief Association raised approximately £200,000 (c. US$1,000,000 at the time). Private initiatives such as The Central Relief Committee of the Society of Friends (Quakers) attempted to fill the gap caused by the end of government relief and eventually the government reinstated the relief works, although bureaucracy slowed the release of food supplies.[74] Ottoman aid According to legend, in 1845, Ottoman Sultan Abdülmecid declared his intention to send £10,000 to Irish farmers but Queen Victoria requested that the Sultan send only £1,000, because she herself had sent only £2,000. The Sultan sent the £1,000 sterling but also sent three ships full of food. According to Abdullah Aymaz in an article in The Fountain magazine, the British administration tried to block the ships, but the food arrived secretly at Drogheda harbour and was left there by Ottoman sailors.[75][76] Uncertainty remains regarding the story as shipping records relating to the port at this time appear not to have survived.[77] From Native Americans In 1847, midway through the Great Irish Famine (1845–1849), a group of Native American Choctaws collected $710 (although many articles say the original amount was $170 after a misprint in Angie Debo's The Rise and Fall of the Choctaw Republic) and sent it to help starving Irish men, women and children. "It had been just 16 years since the Choctaw people had experienced the Trail of Tears, and they had faced starvation... It was an amazing gesture." according to Judy Allen, editor of the Choctaw Nation of Oklahoma's newspaper, Bishinik, based at the Oklahoma Choctaw tribal headquarters in Durant, Oklahoma. To mark the 150th anniversary, eight Irish people retraced the Trail of Tears,[78] and the donation was publicly commemorated by President Mary Robinson. 110 Great Famine (Ireland) Eviction Landlords were responsible for paying the rates of every tenant who paid less than £4 in yearly rent. Landlords whose land was crowded with poorer tenants were now faced with large bills. They began clearing the poor tenants from their small plots, and letting the land in larger plots for over £4 which then reduced their debts. In 1846, there had been some clearances, but the great mass of evictions came in 1847.[79] According to James S. Donnelly Jr, it is impossible to be sure how many people were evicted during the years of the famine and its immediate aftermath. It was only in 1849 that the police began to keep a count, and they recorded a total of almost 250,000 persons as officially evicted between 1849 and 1854.[80] Donnelly considered this to be an underestimate, and if the figures were to include the number pressured into "voluntary" surrenders during the whole period (1846–1854) the figure would almost certainly exceed half a million persons.[81] While Helen Litton says there were also thousands of "voluntary" surrenders, she notes also that there was "precious little voluntary about them." In some cases, tenants were persuaded to accept a small sum of money to leave their homes, "cheated into believing the workhouse would take them in."[79] West Clare was one of the worst areas for evictions, where landlords turned thousands of families out and demolished their derisory cabins. Captain Kennedy in April 1848 estimated that 1,000 houses, with an average of six people to each, had been levelled since November.[82] The Mahon family, Strokestown House alone in 1847 evicted 3,000 people, and according to John Gibney were still able to dine on lobster soup.[83] After Clare, the worst area for evictions was County Mayo, accounting for 10% of all evictions between 1849 and 1854. The Earl of Lucan, who owned over 60000 acres (unknown operator: u'strong' km2) was among the worst evicting landlords. He was quoted as saying 'he would not breed paupers to pay priests'. Having turned out in the parish of Ballinrobe over 2,000 tenants alone, the cleared land he then used as grazing farms.[84] In 1848, the Marquis of Sligo owed £1,650 to Westport Union; he was also an evicting landlord, though he claimed to be selective, saying he was only getting rid of the idle and dishonest. Altogether, he cleared about 25% of his tenants.[85] According to Litton, evictions might have taken place earlier but for fear of the secret societies. However they were now greatly weakened by the Famine. Revenge still occasionally took place, with seven landlords being shot, six fatally, during the autumn and winter of 1847. Ten other occupiers of land, though without tenants, were also murdered, she says.[86] Lord Clarendon, alarmed that this might mean rebellion, asked for special powers. Lord John Russell was not sympathetic to this appeal. Lord Clarendon believed that the landlords themselves were mostly responsible for the tragedy in the first place, saying "It is quite true that landlords in England would not like to be shot like hares and partridges...but neither does any landlord in England turn out fifty persons at once and burn their houses over their heads, giving them no provision for the future." The Crime and Outrage Act was passed in December 1847 as a compromise and additional troops were sent to Ireland.[87] Under the notorious Gregory clause, described by Donnelly as a "vicious amendment to the Irish poor law, named after William H. Gregory, M.P.[88] and commonly known as the quarter-acre clause, provided that no tenant holding more than a quarter-acre of land would be eligible for public assistance either in or outside the workhouse. This clause had been a successful Tory amendment to the Whig poor-relief bill which became law in early June 1847, where its potential as an estate-clearing device was widely recognised in parliament, though not in advance.[89] At first the poor law commissioners and inspectors viewed the clause as a valuable instrument for a more cost-effective administration of public relief, but the drawbacks soon became apparent, even from an administrative perspective. They would soon view them as little more than murderous from a humanitarian perspective. According to Donnelly it became obvious that the quarter-acre clause was "indirectly a death-dealing instrument."[90] 111 Great Famine (Ireland) 112 Emigration While the famine was responsible for a significant increase in emigration from Ireland, of anywhere from 45% to nearly 85% depending on the year and the county, it was not the sole cause. Nor was it even the era when mass emigration from Ireland commenced. That can be traced to the middle of the 18th century, when some 250,000 people left Ireland to settle in the New World alone, over a period of some 50 years. From the defeat of Napoleon to the beginning of the famine, a period of 30 years, "at least 1,000,000 and possibly 1,500,000 emigrated".[91] However, during the worst of the famine, emigration reached somewhere around 250,000 in one year alone, with far more emigrants leaving from western Ireland than any other part.[92] Families did not migrate en masse but younger members of families did. So much so that emigration almost became a rite of passage, as evidenced by the data that show that, unlike similar emigration throughout world history, women emigrated just as often, just as early, and in the same numbers as men. The emigrant started a new life in a new land, sent remittances "[reaching] £1,404,000 by 1851"[93] back to his/her family in Ireland which, in turn, allowed another member of the family to emigrate. Emigrants Leave Ireland, engraving by Henry Doyle (1827–1893), from Mary Frances Cusack's Illustrated History of Ireland, 1868. Emigration during the famine years of 1845–1850 was to England, Scotland, the U.S., Canada, and Australia.[94] Many of those fleeing to the Americas used the well-established McCorkell Line.[95] Of the 100,000 Irish that sailed to Canada in 1847, an estimated one out of five died from disease and malnutrition, including over 5,000 at Grosse Isle.[96] Mortality rates of 30% aboard the coffin ships were common.[97][98] By 1854, between 1.5 and 2 million Irish left their country due to evictions, starvation, and harsh living conditions. In America, most Irish became city-dwellers: with little money, many had to settle in the cities that the ships they came on landed in. By 1850, the Irish made up a quarter of the population in Boston, Massachusetts; New York City; Philadelphia, Pennsylvania; and Baltimore, Maryland. In addition, Irish populations became prevalent in some American mining communities. Great Famine (Ireland) 113 The 1851 census reported that more than half the inhabitants of Toronto, Ontario were Irish, and in 1847 alone, 38,000 famine Irish flooded a city with fewer than 20,000 citizens. Other Canadian cities such as Saint John, New Brunswick; Quebec City and Montreal, Quebec; Ottawa, Kingston and Hamilton, Ontario also received large numbers of Famine Irish since Canada, as part of the British Empire, could not close its ports to Irish ships (unlike the U.S.), and they could get passage cheaply (or free in the case of A graph of the populations of Ireland [left axis] and Europe [right axis] indexed against tenant evictions) in returning empty date. lumber holds. However fearing nationalist insurgencies the British government placed harsh restrictions on Irish immigration to Canada after 1847 resulting in larger influxes to the U.S. The largest Famine grave site outside of Ireland is at Grosse-Île, Quebec, an island in the St. Lawrence River used to quarantine ships near Quebec City. In 1851, about a quarter of Liverpool's population was Irish-born. The famine marked the beginning of the steep depopulation of Ireland in the 19th century. Population had increased by 13–14% in the first three decades of the 19th century. Between 1831 and 1841, population grew by 5%. Application of Thomas Malthus's idea of population expanding geometrically while resources increase arithmetically was popular during the famines of 1817 and 1822. However by the 1830s, a decade before the famine, they were seen as overly simplistic and Ireland's problems were seen "less as an excess of population than as a lack of capital investment."[99] The population of Ireland was increasing no faster than that of England, which suffered no equivalent catastrophe. 1848 rebellion In 1847, William Smith O'Brien, the leader of the Young Ireland party, became one of the founding members of the Irish Confederation[100] to campaign for a Repeal of the Act of Union, and called for the export of grain to be stopped and the ports closed.[101] The following year he organised the resistance of landless farmers in County Tipperary against the landowners and their agents. Death toll It is not known exactly how many people died during the period of the Famine, although it is believed more died from diseases than from starvation.[102] State registration of births, marriages or deaths had not yet begun, and records kept by the Roman Catholic Church are incomplete.[103] Eyewitness accounts have helped medical historians identify both the ailments and effects of famine, and have been used to evaluate and explain in greater detail features of the famine. In Mayo, English Quaker William Bennett wrote of William Smith O'Brien Great Famine (Ireland) 114 three children huddled together, lying there because they were too weak to rise, pale and ghastly, their little limbs ... perfectly emaciated, eyes sunk, voice gone, and evidently in the last stages of actual starvation.[104][105] Revd Dr. Traill Hall, a Church of Ireland rector in Schull, described the aged, who, with the young — are almost without exception swollen and ripening for the grave.[106] Marasmic children also left a permanent image on Quaker Joseph Crosfield who in 1846 witnessed a[107] heart-rending scene [of] poor wretches in the last stages of famine imploring to be received into the [work]house...Some of the children were worn to skeletons, their features sharpened with hunger, and their limbs wasted almost to the bone... William Forster wrote in Carrick-on-Shannon that the children exhibit the effects of famine in a remarkable degree, their faces looking wan and haggard with hunger, and seeming like old men and women.[108] One possible estimate has been reached by comparing the expected population with the eventual numbers in the 1850s -see Irish population analysis. Earlier predictions expected that by 1851 Ireland would have a population of 8–9 million. A census taken in 1841 revealed a population of slightly over 8 million.[109] A census immediately after the famine in 1851 counted 6,552,385, a drop of almost 1.5 million in 10 years.[110] Modern historian R.J. Foster estimates that 'at least 775,000 died, mostly through disease, including cholera in the latter stages of the holocaust'. He further notes that 'a recent sophisticated computation estimates excess deaths from 1846 to 1851 as between 1,000,000 and 1,500,000...; after a careful critique of this, other statisticians arrive at a figure of 1,000,000.'[111][112] In addition, in excess of 1 million Irish emigrated to Great Britain, U.S., Canada, Australia, and elsewhere, while millions emigrated over following decades. Decline in population 1841–51 (%) Leinster Munster 15.3 Ulster 22.5 Connaught 15.7 28.8 Ireland 20 Table from Joe Lee, The Modernisation of Irish Society (Gill History of Ireland Series No.10) p. 2 Detailed statistics of the population of Ireland since 1841 are available at Irish population analysis. Perhaps the best-known estimates of deaths at a county level are those by Joel Mokyr.[113] The range of Mokyr's mortality figures goes from 1.1 million to 1.5 million Famine deaths in Ireland between 1846 and 1851. Mokyr produced two sets of data which contained an upper-bound and lower-bound estimate, which showed not much difference in regional patterns.[114] Because of such anomalies, Cormac Ó Gráda revisited the work of S. H. Cousens.[115] Cousens'[116] estimates of mortality relied heavily on retrospective information contained in the 1851 census. The death tables, contained in the 1851 census[117] have been rightly criticised, as underestimating the true extent of mortality, Cousens' mortality of 800,000 is now regarded as much too low.[113] There were a number of reasons for this, because the information was gathered from the surviving householders and others and having to look back over the previous 10 years, it underestimates the true extent of disease and mortality. Death and emigration had also cleared away entire families, leaving few or no survivors to answer the questions on the census. Another area of uncertainty lies in the descriptions of disease given by tenants as to the cause of their relatives' deaths.[113] Though Wilde's work has been rightly criticised as underestimating the true extent of mortality, it does provide a framework for the medical history of the Great Famine.[106][118] The diseases that badly affected the population fell into two categories,[118] famine-induced diseases and diseases of nutritional deficiency. Of the nutritional deficiency diseases the most commonly experienced were starvation and marasmus, as well as condition called at the time dropsy. Dropsy (Edema) was a popular name given for the symptoms of several diseases, one of which, kwashiorkor, is associated with starvation.[118] The greatest mortality, however, was not from nutritional Great Famine (Ireland) deficiency diseases, but from famine-induced ailments.[118][119] The malnourished are very vulnerable to infections; therefore, they were more severe when they occurred. Measles, diarrhoeal diseases, tuberculosis, most respiratory infections, whooping cough, many intestinal parasites and cholera were all strongly conditioned by nutritional status. Potentially lethal diseases, such as smallpox and influenza, were so virulent that their spread was independent of nutrition.[119] A significant cause spreading disease during the Famine was "social dislocation." The best example of this phenomenon was fever, which exacted the greatest toll of death. In the popular mind, as well as among much medical opinion, fever and famine are closely related.[120][121] This view was not wholly mistaken, but the most critical connection was the congregating of the hungry at soup kitchens, food depots, overcrowded work houses where conditions were ideal for spreading infectious diseases such as typhus, typhoid and relapsing fever.[119][118] As to the diarrhoeal diseases, their presence was the result of poor hygiene, bad sanitation and dietary changes. The concluding attack on a population incapacitated by famine was delivered by Asiatic cholera. Cholera had visited Ireland, briefly in the 1830s. But in the following decade it spread uncontrollably across Asia, through Europe, and into Britain and finally reached Ireland in 1849.[118] On the 1851 census, both Cormac Ó Gráda & Joel Mokyr would also describe it as a famous but flawed source. They would contend that the combination of institutional and individuals figures gives "an incomplete and biased count" of fatalities during the famine.[122] Ó Gráda referencing the work of W. A. MacArthur,[123] writes, specialists have long known the Irish death tables left a lot to be desired in terms of accuracy.[124] As a result, Ó Gráda says to take the Tables of Death at face value would be a grave mistake, as they seriously undercount the number of deaths both before and during the famine.[125] In 1851, the census commissioners collected information on the number who died in each family since 1841, the cause, season and year of death. Its disputed findings were as follows: 21,770 total deaths from starvation in the previous decade, and 400,720 deaths from disease. Listed diseases were fever, dysentery, cholera, smallpox and influenza; the first two being the main killers (222,021 and 93,232). The commissioners acknowledged that their figures were incomplete and that the true number of deaths was Population change in Ireland 1841–1851 probably higher: "The greater the amount of destitution of mortality...the less will be the amount of recorded deaths derived through any household form; – for not only were whole families swept away by disease...but whole villages were effaced from off the land." A later historian has this to say: "In 1851, the Census Commissioners attempted to produce a table of mortality for each year since 1841... The statistics provided were flawed and probably under-estimated the level of mortality..."[126][127] Other, perhaps less reliable and likely underestimates are that the event led to the deaths of approximately 1 million people through starvation and disease; a further million are thought to have emigrated as a result of the famine.[4] Some scholars estimate that the population of Ireland was reduced by 20–25%.[128] All of this occurred while taxes, rents, and food exports were being collected and sent to British landlords, in an amount surpassing £6 million.[129] 115 Great Famine (Ireland) Aftermath The potato remained Ireland's staple crop after the famine; at the end of the 19th century, the Irish per capita consumption of four pounds a day was the highest in the world.[130] Later famines made only minimal effect and are generally forgotten, except by historians. By the 1911 census, the island of Ireland's population had fallen to 4.4 million, about the same as the population in 1800 and 2000 and only a half of its peak population.[109] Judgement of the government's role Contemporary Contemporary opinion was sharply critical of the Russell government's response to and management of the crisis. From the start, there were accusations that the government failed to grasp the magnitude of the disaster. Sir James Graham, who had served as Home Secretary in Sir Robert Peel's late government, wrote to Peel that, in his opinion, "the real extent and magnitude of the Irish difficulty are underestimated by the Government, and cannot be met by measures within the strict rule of economical science."[131] This criticism was not confined to outside critics. The Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, Lord Clarendon, wrote a letter to Russell on April 26, 1849, urging that the government propose additional relief measures: "I do not think there is another legislature in Europe that would disregard such suffering as now exists in the west of Ireland, or coldly persist in a policy of extermination."[132] Also in 1849 the Chief Poor Law Commissioner, Edward Twisleton, resigned in protest over the Rate-in-Aid Act, which provided additional funds for the Poor Law through a 6p in the pound levy on all rateable properties in Ireland.[133] Twisleton testified that "comparatively trifling sums were required for Britain to spare itself the deep disgrace of permitting its miserable fellow subjects to die of starvation." According to Peter Gray, in his book The Irish Famine, the government spent £7,000,000 for relief in Ireland between 1845 and 1850, "representing less than half of one percent of the British gross national product over five years. Contemporaries noted the sharp contrast with the 20 million pounds compensation given to West Indian slave-owners in the 1830s."[99] Other critics maintained that even after the government recognised the scope of the crisis, it failed to take sufficient steps to address it. John Mitchel, one of the leaders of the Young Ireland Movement, wrote the following in 1860: "I have called it an artificial famine: that is to say, it was a famine which desolated a rich and fertile island that produced every year abundance and superabundance to sustain all her people and many more. The English, indeed, call the famine a 'dispensation of Providence;' and ascribe it entirely to the blight on potatoes. But potatoes failed in like manner all over Europe; yet there was no famine save in Ireland. The British account of the matter, then, is first, a fraud; second, a blasphemy. The Almighty, indeed, sent the potato blight, but the English created the famine."[134] Still other critics saw reflected in the government's response the government's attitude to the so-called "Irish Question". Nassau Senior, an economics professor at Oxford University, wrote that the Famine "would not kill more than one million people, and that would scarcely be enough to do any good."[134] In 1848, Denis Shine Lawlor suggested that Russell was a student of the Elizabethan poet Edmund Spenser, who had calculated "how far English colonisation and English policy might be most effectively carried out by Irish starvation."[135] Charles Trevelyan, the civil servant with most direct responsibility for the government's handling of the famine, described it in 1848 as "a direct stroke of an all-wise and all-merciful Providence", which laid bare "the deep and inveterate root of social evil"; the Famine, he affirmed, was "the sharp but effectual remedy by which the cure is likely to be effected. God grant that the generation to which this opportunity has been offered may rightly perform its part..."[136] 116 Great Famine (Ireland) Historical Christine Kinealy expresses the consensus of historians when she states that "the major tragedy of the Irish Famine of 1845–52 marked a watershed in modern Irish history. Its occurrence, however, was neither inevitable nor unavoidable."[137] The underlying factors which combined to cause the famine were aggravated by an inadequate government response. As Kinealy notes, "...[T]he government had to do something to help alleviate the suffering, the particular nature of the actual response, especially following 1846, suggests a more covert agenda and motivation. As the Famine progressed, it became apparent that the government was using its information not merely to help it formulate its relief policies, but also as an opportunity to facilitate various long-desired changes within Ireland. These included population control and the consolidation of property through various means, including emigration... Despite the overwhelming evidence of prolonged distress caused by successive years of potato blight, the underlying philosophy of the relief efforts was that they should be kept to a minimalist level; in fact they actually decreased as the Famine progressed."[138] Several writers single out the decision of the government to permit the continued export of food from Ireland as suggestive of the policy-makers' attitudes. Leon Uris suggested that "there was ample food within Ireland", while all the Irish-bred cattle were being shipped off to England.[139] The following exchange appeared in Act IV of George Bernard Shaw's play Man and Superman: MALONE. He will get over it all right enough. Men thrive better on disappointments in love than on disappointments in money. I daresay you think that sordid; but I know what I'm talking about. My father died of starvation in Ireland in the black 47, Maybe you've heard of it. VIOLET. The Famine? MALONE. [with smouldering passion] No, the starvation. When a country is full of food, and exporting it, there can be no famine. My father was starved dead; and I was starved out to America in my mother's arms. English rule drove me and mine out of Ireland. Well, you can keep Ireland. I and my like are coming back to buy England; and we'll buy the best of it. I want no middle class properties and no middle class women for Hector. That's straightforward isn't it, like yourself?[140] Some also pointed to the structure of the British Empire as a contributing factor. James Anthony Froude wrote that "England governed Ireland for what she deemed her own interest, making her calculations on the gross balance of her trade ledgers, and leaving moral obligations aside, as if right and wrong had been blotted out of the statute book of the Universe."[14] Dennis Clark, an Irish-American historian and critic of empire, claimed that the famine was "the culmination of generations of neglect, misrule and repression. It was an epic of English colonial cruelty and inadequacy. For the landless cabin dwellers it meant emigration or extinction..."[141] 117 Great Famine (Ireland) Suggestions of genocide The famine is still a controversial event in Irish history. Debate and discussion on the British government's response to the failure of the potato crop in Ireland and the subsequent large-scale starvation, and whether or not this constituted genocide, remains a historically and politically charged issue. In 1996, Francis A. Boyle, a law professor at the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign, wrote a report commissioned by the New York-based Irish Famine/Genocide Committee, Ireland's Holocaust mural on the Ballymurphy Road, Belfast. "An Gorta Mór, Britain's which concluded that the British genocide by starvation, Ireland's holocaust 1845–1849." government deliberately pursued a race and ethnicity-based policy aimed at destroying the group commonly known as the Irish people and that the policy of mass starvation amounted to genocide per the Hague convention of 1948.[142] On the strength of Boyle's report, the U.S. state of New Jersey included the famine in the "Holocaust and Genocide Curriculum" at the secondary tier.[143] Historian Peter Duffy writes that "The government's crime, which deserves to blacken its name forever ..." was rooted "in the effort to regenerate Ireland" through "landlord-engineered replacement of tillage plots with grazing lands" that "took precedence over the obligation to provide food ... for its starving citizens. It is little wonder that the policy looked to many people like genocide."[144] Several commentators have argued that the searing effect of the famine in Irish cultural memory has effects similar to that of genocide, while maintaining that one did not occur. Robert Kee suggests that the Famine is seen as "comparable" in its force on "popular national consciousness to that of the 'final solution' on the Jews," and that it is not "infrequently" thought that the Famine was something very like "a form of genocide engineered by the English against the Irish people." This point was echoed by James Donnelly, a historian at the University of Wisconsin–Madison, who wrote in his work Landlord and Tenant in Nineteenth-century Ireland, "I would draw the following broad conclusion: at a fairly early stage of the Great Famine the government's abject failure to stop or even slow down the clearances (evictions) contributed in a major way to enshrining the idea of English state-sponsored genocide in Irish popular mind. Or perhaps one should say in the Irish mind, for this was a notion that appealed to many educated and discriminating men and women, and not only to the revolutionary minority...And it is also my contention that while genocide was not in fact committed, what happened during and as a result of the clearances had the look of genocide to a great many Irish..."[145] Historian Cormac Ó Gráda disagreed that the famine was genocide: first, that "genocide includes murderous intent and it must be said that not even the most bigoted and racist commentators of the day sought the extermination of the Irish"; second, that most people in Whitehall "hoped for better times in Ireland" and third, that the claim of genocide overlooks "the enormous challenges facing relief efforts, both central, local, public and private". Ó Gráda thinks that a case of neglect is easier to sustain than that of genocide.[146] 118 Great Famine (Ireland) Edward Lengel claims that views of the Irish as racially inferior, and for this reason significantly responsible for their circumstances, gained purchase in Great Britain during and immediately after the famine, especially through influential publications such as The Medical Times and The Times.[147] Memorials The Great Famine is memorialised in many locations throughout Ireland, especially in those regions that suffered the greatest losses, and also Famine Memorial in Dublin in cities overseas with large populations descended from Irish immigrants. These include, at Custom House Quays, Dublin, the thin sculptural figures, by artist Rowan Gillespie, who stand as if walking towards the emigration ships on the Dublin Quayside. There is also a large memorial at the Murrisk Millennium Peace Park at the foot of Croagh Patrick in County Mayo.[148] Among the memorials in the U.S. is the Irish Hunger Memorial near a section of the Manhattan waterfront in New York City, where many fleeing Irish arrived. An annual Great Famine walk, the brainchild of the Irish author/humanitarian, Don Mullan, from Doolough to Louisburgh, Co. Mayo, was inaugurated in 1988 and has been led by such notable personalities as Archbishop Desmond Tutu of South Africa and the Choctaw Nation of Oklahoma. The walk, organised by AFrI Action From Ireland, takes place on the first or second Saturday of May and links the memory of the Great Hunger with a contemporary Human Rights issue. Commemorating the Doolough Tragedy, the walk was covered by the three major US television networks: ABC, NBC and CBS, during its first three years. Footnotes [1] Kinealy 1995, pp. xvi–ii [2] O'Neill 2009, p. 1 [3] The term has appeared in the titles of numerous books on the event, as demonstrated by this search on WorldCat (http:/ / www. worldcat. org/ search?q="Gorta+ Mór"& =Search& qt=results_page) [4] Ross 2002, p. 226 [5] Kinealy 1994, p. 357 [6] Ó Gráda 2002, p. 7 [7] Woodham-Smith 1991, p. 19 [8] Kinealy 1994, pp. xvi–ii, 2–3 [9] Kinealy 1995, p. xvii [10] The Famine that affected Ireland from 1845 to 1852 has become an integral part of folk legend.Kinealy 1995, p. 342 [11] Póirtéir 1995 [12] Blake 1969, p. 179 [13] Woodham-Smith 1991, p. 31 [14] MacManus 1979, pp. 458–459 [15] Litton 1994 [16] Laxton 1997 [17] Woodham-Smith 1991, pp. 20–1 [18] Woodham-Smith 1991, p. 24 [19] Woodham-Smith 1991, p. 21 [20] Woodham-Smith 1991, p. 22 [21] Litton 2006, pp. 9–10 [22] Kee 1993, p. 15 [23] Uris & Uris 2003, p. 15 119 Great Famine (Ireland) [24] Póirtéir 1995, p. 19–20 [25] Póirtéir 1995, p. 20 [26] Other European countries also hit by Phytophthora infestans (http:/ / aboutbiodiversity. org/ agbdx/ eireblight. html) [27] Rifkin 1993, pp. 56–57 [28] Donnelly, James S. Jr. (2010), "XIII", in W.E. Vaughan, Production, prices and exports, 1846–51, A New History of Ireland, V, Oxford University Press, p. 289, ISBN 978-0-19-957867-2 [29] Bourke, P. M. Austin (1960), "The Extent of the Potato Crop in Ireland at the time of the Famine" (http:/ / www. tara. tcd. ie/ jspui/ bitstream/ 2262/ 4522/ 1/ jssisiVolXXPart3_0135. pdf), Dublin: Journal of the Statistical and Social Inquiry Society of Ireland (Dublin, Ireland: Statistical and Social Inquiry Society of Ireland) XX, Part III: 1–35, ISSN 00814776, , retrieved 2011-04-10. [30] Donnelly 2005, p. 40 [31] Kinealy 1995, p. 31 [32] Paddock 1992, pp. 197–222 [33] Woodham-Smith 1964, p. 38 [34] Bourke, 1964, The Emergence of Potato Blight 1846-1828. Nature 203:805–808. [35] Neiderhauser, JS 1991 phytothora infestans the Mexico connection pp 25–45 Symposium of the Mycolocical Society. Lucas Shattock Shaw and Cooke Ed. Cambridge University Press. [36] Donnelly 2005, p. 41 [37] Donnelly 2005, p. 42 [38] Woodham-Smith 1962, pp. 39–40 [39] Kinealy 1995, p. 33 [40] Kinealy put the date at the 16th.Kinealy 1994, p. 32 [41] Kinealy 1994, p. 32 [42] Kennedy et al. 1999, p. 69 [43] Ross 2002, p. 311 [44] Ó Gráda 2002, p. 9 [45] Mitchel 2005, pp. 94–96 [46] Woodham-Smith 1962, pp. 41–42 [47] Mitchel 2005, p. 96 [48] The Nation Newspaper 1844 [49] Sullivan 1945 [50] The Nation Newspaper 1846 [51] Duffy 2007, p. 312 [52] Duffy 2007, p. 323 [53] Duffy 1888, pp. 277–278 [54] Mitchel 2005 [55] Lyons 1973, p. 30 [56] Kinealy 1995, p. 38 [57] Blake 1967, pp. 221 [58] Blake 1967, pp. 221–241 [59] Woodham-Smith 1962, pp. 78–86 [60] Doheny 1951, p. 98 [61] Lyons 1973, p. 30–34 [62] Mitchel 1996, p. 16 [63] Woodham-Smith 1962, pp. 408–11 [64] Ross 2002, pp. 224, 311 [65] Ranelagh 2000, p. 60 [66] Kinealy 1995, p. 354 [67] "Ranelagh, John O'Beirne, A Short History of Ireland. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, England, Second edition, 1994. First printing, 1983, p. 115, cited in The Great Irish Famine.Irish Famine Curriculum Committee 1998 [68] Kinealy has written two texts on the famine, Irish Famine: This Great Calamity and A Death-Dealing Famine [69] O'Sullivan 1945, p. 107 [70] Duffy 1888, p. 278 [71] Lady Wilde who wrote under the pen name Speranza, was the mother of Oscar Wilde and the wife of Sir William Wilde, author of The Death Tables.Wilde 1851 [72] Webb 1868, pp. 120–122 [73] Kinealy 1995, p. 161 [74] Ross 2002 [75] Akay 2012 [76] Aymaz 2007 120 Great Famine (Ireland) [77] Kelly, Antoinette. "New evidence shows Turkey delivered food to Ireland during the famine" (http:/ / www. irishcentral. com/ news/ New-evidence-shows-Turkey-delivered-food--to-Ireland-during-the-famine-156681255. html). IrishCentral LLC. . Retrieved 11-07-2012. [78] Ward 2002 [79] Litton 2006, p. 95 [80] Póirtéir 1995, p. 155 [81] Póirtéir 1995, p. 156 [82] Litton 2006, p. 96 [83] History of Ireland 2008, p. 55 [84] Litton 2006, p. 98 [85] Litton 2006, pp. 95–98 [86] Litton 2006, p. 99 [87] Litton 2006, pp. 98–99 [88] William H. Gregory became the husband of Lady Gregory, heir to a substantial Galway estate which he dissipated by gambling debts on the turf in the late 1840s and early 1850s.Póirtéir 1995, p. 159 [89] Póirtéir 1995, p. 159 [90] Donnelly 2005, p. 110 [91] Gráda 1975 [92] Library of Congress 2007 [93] Foster 1988, p. 371 [94] Foster 1988, p. 268 [95] McCorkell 2010 [96] The History Place 2000 [97] EMILE 2000 [98] TheShipList 2007 [99] Gray 1995 [100] Doheny 1951 [101] Mitchel 1869, p. 414 [102] Woodham-Smith 1991, p. 204 [103] Civil registration of births and deaths in Ireland was not established by law until 1863.The Register Office 2005, p. 1 [104] William Bennett, Narrative of a Recent Journey of Six Weeks in Ireland (London, 1847)Ghabhann 1997 [105] Society of Friends. Central Relief Committee 1852 [106] Medical Science 1849, pp. 270–399 [107] Kennedy et al. 1999, p. 106 [108] Society of Friends. Central Relief Committee 1852, p. 146 [109] Killen 2003 [110] Vaughan 1978 [111] "Based on hitherto unpublished work by C. Ó Gráda and Phelim Hughes, 'Fertility trends, excess mortality and the Great Irish Famine' ... Also see C.Ó Gráda and Joel Mokyr, 'New developments in Irish Population History 1700–1850', Economic History Review, vol. xxxvii, no.4 (November 1984), pp. 473–488."Foster 1988, p. 234 [112] "Lee says 'at least 800,000."Lee 1973, p. 1 [113] Kennedy et al. 1999, p. 36 [114] Makyr 1983, pp. 266–7 [115] Ó Gráda 1993, pp. 138–44 [116] Cousens 1960, pp. 55–74 [117] Association of Medical Journal [118] Kennedy et al. 1999, p. 104 [119] Levi-Bacci [120] Corrigan 1846 [121] Kennedy 1847 [122] Ó Gráda 2002, p. 3 [123] 1957, MacArthur & Edwards Williams, pp. 308–12 [124] Ó Gráda 2002, p. 67 [125] Ó Gráda 2002, p. 71 [126] Killen 1995, pp. 250–252 [127] Kinealy 1995, p. 167 [128] Kinealy 1995, p. 357 [129] American University 1996 [130] Waldron, George B. (November 1898). "The World's Bill of Fare" (http:/ / books. google. com/ books?id=QC00iTpXcQ4C& pg=PA16#v=onepage& q& f=false). McClure's. . Retrieved 2010-12-24. 121 Great Famine (Ireland) [131] Kinealy 1995, p. 80 [132] Woodham-Smith 1991 [133] Kinealy 1995, pp. 254–260 [134] Gallagher 1987 [135] Donnelly 1995 [136] Trevelyan 1848 [137] Kinealy 1995, p. xv [138] Kinealy 1995, p. 353 [139] Uris & Uris 2003, p. 16 [140] Shaw 1903 [141] Clark 1982 [142] "Clearly, during the years 1845 to 1850, the British government pursued a policy of mass starvation in Ireland with intent to destroy in substantial part the national, ethnic and racial group commonly known as the Irish People...Therefore, during the years 1845 to 1850 the British government knowingly pursued a policy of mass starvation in Ireland that constituted acts of genocide against the Irish people within the meaning of Article II (c) of the 1948 [Hague] Genocide Convention."Ritschel & 1996 = [143] Approved by the New Jersey Commission on Holocaust Education on 10 September 1996, for inclusion in the Holocaust and Genocide Curriculum at the secondary level. Revision submitted 11/26/98.Irish Famine Curriculum Committee 1998 [144] Duffy 2007, pp. 297–298 [145] Donnelly 2005 [146] Ó Gráda 2000, p. 10 [147] Lengel 2002, pp. 12, 48, 104 [148] McDonald 2010 Citations References • American University (1996), Irish Potato Famine and Trade (http://www.american.edu/TED/potato.htm), American University, retrieved September 24, 2010 • Association of Medical Journal (1856), The Census of Ireland for the Year 1851. Part III. 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H (1960), Regional death rates in Ireland during the Great Famine from 1846 to 1851, Population Studies, 14 • Corrigan, Sir Dominic (1846), On famine and fever as cause and effect in Ireland: with observations on hospital location, and the dispensation in outdoor relief of food and medicine, J. Fannin & Co. • Doheny, Michael (1951), The Felon's Track, M.H. Gill & Son, LTD • Ranelagh, John O'Beirne (2000), Fearful Realities: New Perspectives on the Famine, Chris Morash & Richard Hayes, Colourbooks Ltd, ISBN 0-7165-2566-6 • Donnelly, James S (2005), The Great Irish Potato Famine, Sutton Publishing, ISBN 0-7509-2632-5 • Donnelly, James S., Jr. (1995), Poirteir, Cathal, ed., Mass Eviction and the Irish Famine: The Clearances Revisited", from The Great Irish Famine, Dublin, Ireland: Mercier Press • McDonald, Brian (May 17, 2010), "British fail to attend Famine ceremony" (http://www.independent.ie/ national-news/british-fail-to-attend-famine-ceremony-2182551.html), Irish Independent, retrieved September 24, 2010 122 Great Famine (Ireland) • Medical Science (1849), Report upon the recent epidemic fever in Ireland, Dublin Quartly Journal of Medical Science [DQJMS] (http://books.google.com/?id=lwMHAAAAcAAJ&dq=Report+upon+the+recent+ epidemic+fever+in+Ireland,+Dublin), vol. 7 (1849), 64–126, 340–404, vol. 8, 1–86, Medical Science, retrieved September 24, 2010 • Mitchel, John (1869), The history of Ireland: from the Treaty of Limerick to the present time, James Duffy • Duffy, Peter (2007), The Killing of Major Denis Mahon, HarperCollins, ISBN 978-0-06-084050-1 • Duffy, Sir Charles Gavan (1888), Four Years of Irish History 1845–1849, Cassell, Petter, Galpin & Co • EMILE (2000), Early Emigrant Letter Stories (http://www.emigrantletters.com/IE/output. asp?ArticleID=211374&CategoryID=6574&ArticleOutputTemplateID=452&ArticleStateID=2), retrieved September 20, 2010 • Foster, R.F (1988), Modern Ireland 1600–1972, Penguin Group • Gallagher, Thomas (1987), Paddy's Lament, Ireland 1846–1847: Prelude to Hatred (http://books.google.com/ ?id=UNpKf_Fqy30C&dq=paddy's+lament), Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, ISBN 978-0-15-670700-8, retrieved September 24, 2010 • Gash, Norman (1961), Mr. Secretary Peel: The Life of Sir Robert Peel to 1830, London: Longmans • Ghabhann, Gillian Ní (1997), A Critical Examination of a selection of travel writing produced during the Great Famine (http://www.ucc.ie/chronicon/smithfra.htm), Cork • Black '47 and Beyond: The Great Irish Famine in History, Economy, and Memory (http://books.google.com/ ?id=sH-J4WxqknkC&dq=black+47+and+beyond), Princeton University Press, 2000, ISBN 978-0-691-07015-5, retrieved September 2, 2010 • Gray, Peter (1995), The Irish Famine, London: Thames and Hudson • Gray, Peter (1995), The Irish Famine, Discoveries, New York: Harry N. Abrams, Inc • Hayden, Tom (1998), Hayden, Tom; O'Connor, Garrett; Harty, Patricia, eds., Irish hunger: personal reflections on the legacy of the famine, Roberts Rinehart Publishers, ISBN 978-1-57098-233-0 • History of Ireland (2008), History Ireland (http://www.historyireland.com/volumes/volume16/issue6/), Volume, 16 • Irish Famine Curriculum Committee (1998), The Great Irish Famine (http://www.education.ne.gov/SS/irish/ irish_pf.html), retrieved September 21, 2010 • Kee, Robert (1993), The Laurel and the Ivy: The Story of Charles Stewart Parnell and Irish Nationalism, Hamish Hamilton, ISBN 978-0-241-12858-9 • Kennedy, Henry (1847), Observations on the connexion between famine and fever in Ireland, and elsewhere, Hodges and Smith • Kennedy, Liam; Ell, Paul S; Crawford, E. M; Clarkson, L. A (1999), Mapping The Great Irish Famine, Four Courts Press, ISBN 1-85182-353-0 • Killen, Richard (2003), Gill and Macmillan Ltd • Killen, John (1995), The Famine decade, contemporary accounts 1841–1851, Blackstaff • Kinealy, Christine (1995), This Great Calamity: The Irish Famine 1845–52, Gill & Macmillan, ISBN 1-57098-034-9 • Kinealy, Christine (1994), This Great Calamity, Gill & Macmillan, ISBN 0-7171-4011-3 • Laxton, Edward (1997), The Famine Ships: The Irish Exodus to America 1846–51, Bloomsbury, ISBN 0-7475-3500-0 • Lee, Joseph (1973), The Modernisation of Irish Society (http://books.google.com/?id=ocQuAAAAIAAJ& q=The+Modernisation+of+Irish+Society&dq=The+Modernisation+of+Irish+Society), Gill and Macmillan • Lengel, Edward G. (2002), The Irish through British eyes: perceptions of Ireland in the Famine era (http:// books.google.com/?id=ViPT_bL7FG0C&pg=PA12&dq="the+scottish+ethnologist+robert+knox,+writing+ in+the+medical+times""&q="the scottish ethnologist robert knox, writing in the medical times""), Greenwood Publishing Group, pp. 12, 48, 104, ISBN 978-0-275-97634-7 123 Great Famine (Ireland) • Levi-Bacci, M (1991), 'Population and nutrition: an essay on European demographic history, Cambridge • Library of Congress (2007), Irish immigration to America (http://rs6.loc.gov:8081/learn/features/immig/alt/ irish2.html), retrieved September 20, 2010 • Litton, Helen (1994), The Irish Famine: An Illustrated History, Wolfhound Press, ISBN 0-86327-912-0 • Litton, Helen (2006), The Irish Famine: An Illustrated History, Wolfhound Press, ISBN 0-86327-912-0 • Lyons, Francis Stewart Leland (1973), Ireland since the famine, Fontana • McCorkell, John (2010), McCorkell Line (http://www.mccorkellline.com/), retrieved September 20, 2010 • MacArthur, Sir William Porter; Edwards, R. Dudley (Robert Dudley); Williams, Thomas Desmond (1957), Medical history of the famine, Russell & Russell • MacManus, Seamus (1979), The Story of the Irish Race (http://www.education.ne.gov/SS/irish/unit_1.html), The Irish Publishing Company, retrieved September 20, 2010 • Makyr, Joel (1983), Why Ireland staved, A quantitative and analytical history of the Irish economy 1800–1850 • Mitchel, John (2005), Last Conquest of Ireland (Perhaps), Lynch, Cole & Meehan, ISBN 1-904558-36-4 • Mitchel, John (1996), Jail Journal of Five Years in British Prisons, ISBN 1 85477 218 • Ó Gráda, Cormac (1993), Ireland before and after the Famine, explorations in economic history (http://books. google.com/?id=SNvoAAAAIAAJ&dq=18001925), Manchester, ISBN 18001925 • Ó Gráda, C. (1975), A Note on Nineteenth Emigration Statistics, Population Studies, Vol. 29 • Ó Gráda, Cormac (2006), Ireland's Great Famine: Interdisciplinary Perspectives, Dublin Press, ISBN 978-1-904558-57-6 • O'Neill, Joseph R. (2009), The Irish Potato Famine (http://books.google.com/?id=TVEWfeClF8MC), ABDO, ISBN 978-1-60453-514-3 • O'Sullivan, T. F (1945), Young Ireland, The Kerryman Ltd. • Paddock, W. C (1992), Our Last Chance to Win the War on Hunger • Póirtéir, Cathal (1995), The Great Irish Famine, RTÉ/Mercier Press, ISBN 1-85635-111-4 • Rifkin, Jeremy (1993), Beyond Beef, Plume, ISBN 978-0-452-26952-1 • Ritschel, Dan (1996), The Irish Famine: Interpretive & Historiographical Issues (http://www.umbc.edu/ history/CHE/InstPg/RitFamine/irish-famine-historiographical-issues.html), Department of History, University of Maryland • The History Place (2000), Irish Potato Famine Coffin Ships Coffin Ships (http://www.historyplace.com/ worldhistory/famine/coffin.htm) • TheShipList (2007), Passenger List – Agnes, Cork Ireland to Quebec, 1847 (http://www.theshipslist.com/ ships/passengerlists/agnes1847.htm), retrieved September 20, 2010 • The Register Office (2005), History (http://www.groireland.ie/history.htm), retrieved September 21, 2010 • Trevelyan, Charles E (1848), The Irish Crisis, London • Ross, David (2002), Ireland: History of a Nation, New Lanark: Geddes & Grosset, ISBN 1-84205-164-4 • The Nation Newspaper (November 1, 1884) • The Nation Newspaper (1846) • Sen, Amartya (2001), Farrukh Iqbal; Jong-Il You, eds., Democracy, market economics, and development: an Asian perspective (http://books.google.com/?id=NfrXOZIef2AC&printsec=frontcover& dq=9780821348628#v=onepage&q&f=false), World Bank Publications, pp. 12–14, ISBN 978-0-8213-4862-8 • Shaw, George Bernard (1903), "Act IV", Man and Superman • Society of Friends. Central Relief Committee (1852), Transactions of the Central Relief Committee of the Society of Friends during the Famine in Ireland in 1846 and 1847, Dublin (http://books.google.com/ ?id=ZY4sAAAAYAAJ&vq=looking+wan+and+haggard+with+hunger&dq=Transactions+of+the+Central+ Relief+Committee+of+the+Society+of+Friends+during+the+Famine+in+Ireland+in+1846+and+1847) • Uris, Jill; Uris, Leon (2003), Ireland: Terrible Beauty, Bantam Books, ISBN 978-0-553-01381-8 124 Great Famine (Ireland) • Vaughan, W.E; Fitzpatrick, A.J (1978), W. E. Vaughan; A. J. Fitzpatrick, eds., Irish Historical Statistics, Population, 1821/1971, Royal Irish Academy • Ward, Mike (2002), Irish Repay Choctaw Famine Gift:March Traces Trail of Tears in Trek for Somalian Relief (https://pantherfile.uwm.edu/michael/www/choctaw/retrace.html), American-Stateman Capitol, retrieved September 20, 2010 • Woodham-Smith, Cecil (1962), The Great Hunger • Woodham-Smith, Cecil (1991), The Great Hunger • Webb, Alfred (1868), Unpublished Biography • Woodham-Smith, Cecil (1964), The Great Hunger: Ireland 1845–1849, Signet: New York • Wilde, Jane, The 1851 Census Further reading • • • • • Mary E. Daly, The Famine in Ireland R. Dudley Edwards and T. Desmond Williams (eds.), The Great Famine: Studies in Irish history 1845–52 Peter Gray, The Irish Famine Joseph O'Connor, Star of the Sea Cormac Ó Gráda, An Economic History of Ireland • Robert Kee, Ireland: A History (ISBN 0-349-10678-9) • Christine Kinealy, This Great Calamity: The Irish Famine 1845 – 1852, history.ac.uk (http://www.history.ac. uk/ihr/Focus/Victorians/clarkson.html) • John Mitchel, The Last Conquest of Ireland (1861) (University College Dublin Press reprint, 2005 paperback) ISBN I-904558-36-4 • Marita Conlon-McKenna, Under the Hawthorn Tree • Canon John O'Rourke, The Great Irish Famine (ISBN 1-85390-049-4 Hardback) (ISBN 1-85390-130-X Paperback) Veritas Publications 1989. First published in 1874. • Liam O'Flaherty, Famine • Colm Tóibín and Diarmaid Ferriter, The Irish Famine, ISBN 978-1-86197-249-1 (first edition, hardback) • Kevin Baker, Paradise Alley • Several books by Young Irelanders make reference to the Great Irish Famine External links • New Jersey Commission on Holocaust Education 1996 (http://www.education.ne.gov/SS/irish/irish_pf.html) • The History of the Irish Famine by Rev. John O'Rourke (http://www.gutenberg.org/etext/14412) • Irish National Archives information on the Famine (http://www.nationalarchives.ie/topics/famine/famine. html) • Quinnipiac University's An Gorta Mor site – includes etexts (http://www.thegreathunger.org/) • Ireland's Great Famine (http://eh.net/encyclopedia/ograda.famine.php) (Cormac Ó Gráda) from EH.Net Encyclopedia of Economic History • Irishholocaust.org (http://www.irishholocaust.org/) • American.edu (http://www.american.edu/TED/potato.htm), History • Ireland: The hunger years 1845–1851 (http://pubs.socialistreviewindex.org.uk/sr189/stack.htm) • Kids History Website about the Famine (http://www.irishpotatofamine.org/) • Hunger on Trial: An Activity on the Irish Potato Famine and Its Meaning for Today (http://zinnedproject.org/ posts/1422/) A free downloadable lesson for high school social studies classrooms from the Zinn Education Project. • Cork Multitext Project article on the Famine, by Donnchadh Ó Corráin (http://multitext.ucc.ie/d/Famine) 125 Great Famine (Ireland) • For more on the pathogen see bobit.botany.wisc.edu (http://botit.botany.wisc.edu/toms_fungi/mar2001.html) • Karp, Ivan. Museum Frictions: Public Cultures/Global Transformations. books.google.com (http://books. google.com/books?id=sk3o1irXY5oC&pg=PA400&dq="irish+holocaust"& ei=dcP5RrW1II_g6wKSzsDeAQ&sig=UNoCD7Yv1Fp50hUKr25mj1gOSUw) • Seamus P. Metress, Richard A. Rajner. The Great Starvation: An Irish Holocaust. books.google.com (http:// books.google.com/books?id=Q3crAAAACAAJ&dq="irish+holocaust"&ei=dcP5RrW1II_g6wKSzsDeAQ) • Books.google.com (http://books.google.com/books?q="irish+holocaust") • Irish Repay Choctaw Famine Gift:March Traces Trail of Tears in Trek for Somalian Relief (http://www.uwm. edu/~michael/choctaw/retrace.html) • President of Ireland Mary Robinson Addresses the Choctaw People (http://www.uwm.edu/~michael/choctaw/ robinson.html) • Views of the Famine (http://adminstaff.vassar.edu/sttaylor/FAMINE/) • Sligoheritage.com (http://www.sligoheritage.com/archive.htm), Famine on the Gore-Booth and Palmerston estates in Sligo, Ireland • The Famine in Doon co.Limerick (http://www.doonbleisce.com/famine_in_doon.htm) • What Caused the Irish Potato Famine? (http://mises.org/story/2978) • Genome of Irish potato famine pathogen decoded (http://www.physorg.com/news171720802.html), physorg.com] • Whyte, Robert. The ocean plague; or, A voyage to Quebec in an Irish emigrant vessel, embracing a quarantine at Grosse Isle in 1847. With notes illustrative of the ship-pestilence of that fatal year (http://www. torontopubliclibrary.ca/detail.jsp?Entt=RDMDC-37131055426902D&R=DC-37131055426902D). Boston : Coolidge & Wiley, 12 Water Street, 1848. Accessed July 18, 2012, in PDF format. 126 Donegal Borough (Parliament of Ireland constituency) 127 Donegal Borough (Parliament of Ireland constituency) Donegal Former Borough constituency Created 1613 Post-Union Disenfranchised Type Irish House of Commons Donegal Borough was a constituency represented in the Irish House of Commons until 1800. It is now represented in the Dáil. History In the Patriot Parliament of 1689 summoned by King James II, Donegal Borough was not represented.[1] Members of Parliament, 1613–1801 1689–1801 Election First member First party Second member 1689 Donegal Borough was not represented in the Patriot Parliament 1692 William Conolly John Hamilton 1695 William Gore 1703 Sir Ralph Gore, 4th Bt 1713 Sir Arthur Gore, 2nd Bt 1715 Henry Maxwell Richard Jones [2] George Macartney Robert Miller 1725 Alexander Montgomery 1727 Arthur Gore 1730 [3] John Folliott 1759 Hon. Arthur Saunders Gore 1761 Robert Doyne John Knox 1768 Viscount Sudley Richard Gore 1774 Barry Yelverton [4] 1776 June 1776 James Cuffe [5] Henry Vaughan Brooke 1777 Robert Longfield 1779 Henry Cope October 1783 1783 Henry Hatton Viscount Sudley [6] Sir John Evans-Freke, 2nd Bt Second party Donegal Borough (Parliament of Ireland constituency) 1790 William Downes 1797 William Keller 1798 Hugh O'Donnell 1799 Charles Kendal Bushe 1801 Disenfranchised 128 Humphrey Butler William Cusack-Smith Notes [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] O'Hart (2007), p. 501 Also elected for Mayo in 1715, for which he chose to sit Succeeded as 3rd Baronet in 1741 Also elected for Carrickfergus in 1776, for which he chose to sit Also elected for Mayo in 1776, for which he chose to sit Also elected for Baltimore in 1783, for which he chose to sit References Bibliography • O'Hart, John (2007). The Irish and Anglo-Irish Landed Gentry: When Cromwell came to Ireland. vol. II. Heritage Books. ISBN 0-7884-1927-7. • Leigh Rayment's historical List of Members of the Irish House of Commons (http://www.leighrayment.com/ commons/irelandcommons.htm)( ) cites: Johnston-Liik, Edith Mary (2002). "The History of the Irish Parliament 1692-1800 (6 volumes)". Ulster Historical Foundation. Rossnowlagh 129 Rossnowlagh Rossnowlagh Ros Neamhlach — Town — Rossnowlagh Location in Ireland Coordinates: 54°34′N 8°13′W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Irish Grid Reference Rossnowlagh or Rosnowlagh (Irish: Ros Neamhlach, meaning "heavenly headland") is a seaside village in south County Donegal, Ireland. It is about 8.5 km north of Ballyshannon and 16.0 km southwest of Donegal Town. The area's 3 km long beach[1] is popular with families and is frequented by walkers, surfers, wind-surfers, kite-surfers and swimmers. Beach Rossnowlagh is one of Ireland's and Europe's best Blue Flag surfing beaches. As the slowly rising beach faces westward into the Atlantic Ocean, and the fact that Donegal Bay has a funnel-like shape, it can increase the size of the waves, especially in winter when some huge rollers are generated and it has been known to have waves up to 7 metres (20 ft) high. Rossnowlagh has good safe facilities and has excellent water quality. Rossnowlagh has many visitors during the summer months and is very popular as most of the beach is accessible by car which is suitable for young and old alike. Drivers are cautioned however to be aware of soft Picture of Rossnowlagh beach sand areas where cars can get stuck and to be aware of incoming tides which can move in rapidly and cover most/all of the beach. There may be a Beach Warden on duty and information about full and low tides may be displayed. Drivers on the beach are required to drive very slowly at 15 km/h and to be on the lookout for children and other users of the beach. Rossnowlagh A soil erosion study of the beach at Rossnowlagh, known officially as Belalt Strand, has been made. The area consists mainly of sandy beach, but also rocky shore platform, sand dunes, grassland, boulder clay cliffs and rock cliffs. Over the last 60 years it has been determined that the central section of the dune front has been eroding at rates up to 0.6 metres (2 ft) per year, with the highest erosion rate between 1951 and 1977. Starting in 1972, short lengths of rock armour were constructed at first in front of the Sandhouse Hotel and with further additions along the shore-line; this stopped the erosion in protected parts but the dune front has a ragged appearance with up to 35 metres (unknown operator: u'strong' ft) of erosion where half of the sandy shoreline has no protection.[2] Amenities The main amenity is the extensive beach which is very popular with families. It is frequented by walkers, joggers, sunbathers, surfers, wind-surfers, kite-surfers and swimmers, and is accessible by car via 3 ramps. There is about 3 km of a good quality wide sandy beach although it is possible to walk several more kilometres further along the shore and all the way to Murvagh Beach. The Sandhouse Hotel is located adjacent to the beach, with a Surfers Bar attached. Overlooking the beach and on the cliff is the Smuggler's Creek Inn restaurant and bar, and there are several shops in the area, along with a Post-Office and Shop near the Franciscan Friary as well as The Thatch Tea House nearby. The Franciscan Friary is located up from the southern end of the beach[3]. The Friary has a Visitor Centre and contains the Donegal Historical Society Museum which houses a small collection including stone age flints and old Irish musical instruments. The Friary also has beautiful gardens which are open to visitors. To the south-west further along the cliffs in the distance stands the ruined Kilbarron Castle which is accessible via Creevy. Events • Rossnowlagh Surf Club hosts several surfing events, some with dozens of young surfers competing. For example competitions are held for U12, U14 and U16 age groups. • The annual Orange Order parade for the County Donegal Orange Lodge is held each year in Rossnowlagh, usually on the Saturday before 12th of July. The number of participants and marching bands varies each year with most marchers coming from order lodges based in Northern Ireland but some come from other areas in Donegal, Monaghan and Cavan. There is no lodge in Rossnowlagh. The participants begin near St John's Church and march for approximately 2 km into the centre of Rossnowlagh, where they congregate for some time. The marchers march back to St John's church area in the late afternoon. 130 Rossnowlagh 131 • The Irish National Junior Surfing Championships have been hosted in Rossnowlagh, such as in 2007 where 113 young surfers competed for titles in U12, U14, U16 and U18 levels, including events for bodyboard and longboard. Rossnowlagh Surf Club members have been successful in these and other surfing competitions. • An annual Feis (Irish Gaelic: pronounced fesh) is held each summer in July or August at the Franciscan Friary in Rossnowlagh. The feis is officially called the Feis of the Four Masters or Feis na gCeithre Maistir in Irish. One of the Four Masters, Michael O'Cleirigh, comes from the nearby locality. View from Rossnowlagh strand • The Inter-Counties Surfing contest is Ireland's longest-running surfing contest and has been held every year since 1969. As it is normally the last surfing event of the year in Ireland, held in September or October, it is widely viewed as a social event of the surfing calendar, and the actual surfing often takes second place to the craic and social enjoyment. In the last decade the contest has turned into a battle between the two dominant counties in Irish Surfing, hailing from opposite ends of the country - Donegal and Waterford. • The World Rally Championship came to the Rossnowlagh area in 2007 and again in 2009. Rally Ireland organised both events. The rally which drew a large number of spectators was held in the townland of Cashel on the northern edge of Rossnowlagh and was labelled the Donegal Bay stage. This special stage was 14 km long on narrow single-lane tarmac back roads. In 2007 it was won by Jari-Matti Latvala and in 2009 by Mikko Hirvonen. Sebastian Loeb was the overall winner of both rallies. History: Franciscan Friary There had been 500 years of Franciscan history in Donegal[4] when the link was broken in the mid-19th century. However, the Franciscan order re-established themselves in County Donegal when new friary buildings were built in Rossnowlagh in the early 1950s. The land for the Friary was donated by Charles Williamson to his brother and Franciscan, Brother Paschal Williamson. History: Railway Transport • Rossnowlagh railway station opened in 1905 but closed on 1 January 1960.[5] It was part of the County Donegal Railways Joint Committee network with the train running towards Ballyshannon (where a walk across the town to the other station in Ballyshannon run by the Great Northern Railway of Ireland, would be required for Bundoran or Enniskillen) to the south and north to Donegal Town, Stranorlar, Strabane (where passengers could change onto the Great Northern Railway of Ireland, to reach Omagh) and Derry. During the 55 years of its operation, Rossnowlagh, with its 2 miles of golden beach, became a popular venue for excursionists, and it was particularly favoured by families, daytrippers and for groups on their annual outings. Rossnowlagh References [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] Donegal Bay (http:/ / www. donegalbay. com/ rossnowlagh/ activities. html) LIFE Project 1999 and LIFE Project 2000 (http:/ / copranet. projects. eucc-d. de/ files/ 000126_EUROSION_Rossnowlagh. pdf) Raphoe Diocese (http:/ / www. raphoediocese. com/ rossnowlagh. htm) Rossnowlagh Friary (http:/ / web. archive. org/ web/ 20091027145109/ http:/ / geocities. com/ friaryrossnowlagh/ friaryhistory. htm) "Rossnowlagh station" (http:/ / www. railscot. co. uk/ Ireland/ Irish_railways. pdf) (PDF). Railscot - Irish Railways. . Retrieved 2007-11-24. External links • Rossnowlagh surf report updated daily (http://www.rossnowlaghsurf.blogspot.com) • Donegal Bay (http://www.donegalbay.com/rossnowlagh/activities.html) • History of the Franciscans in Donegal (http://web.archive.org/web/20091027145109/http://geocities.com/ friaryrossnowlagh/friaryhistory.htm) 132 Letterkenny 133 Letterkenny Letterkenny Leitir Ceanainn — Town — Coat of arms Motto: Ubique Urbem Reminiscar "Remember the town wherever I am" Letterkenny Location in Ireland Coordinates: 54°57′24″N 7°43′13″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Dáil Éireann Donegal North–East Elevation 52 m (unknown operator: u'strong' ft) [1] Population (2011) • 19,588 Letterkenny 134 [2] Irish Grid Reference C171121 Dialing code 074, +000 353 74 Website [www.letterkenny.ie www.letterkenny.ie] Letterkenny (Irish: Leitir Ceanainn, meaning "Hillside of the O'Cannons") is the largest and most populous town in County Donegal, Ireland. It is also largest urban centre in the north-west of the country. The English name for the town is derived from the Irish name Leitir Ceanainn, meaning "Hillside of the O'Cannons" – the O'Cannons being the last of the ancient chieftains of Tír Conaill. With a population of 19,588,[1] it is located on the River Swilly in east Donegal. Letterkenny, along with the nearby city of Derry, forms the major economic core of the north-west of the island of Ireland.[3] The modern urban centre of Letterkenny began as a market town at the start of the 17th century, during the Plantation of Ulster. An ancient castle once stood near where the Cathedral of St. Eunan and St Columba, Donegal's only Roman Catholic cathedral, stands today. Letterkenny Castle, built in 1625, was located south of Mount Southwell on Castle Street. Donegal and the north-west's premier third-level institution, the Letterkenny Institute of Technology (LYIT), is located in the town, as is the only Hindu temple in the Republic of Ireland.[4] Letterkenny is also the original home of Oatfield, the confectionery manufacturer, and is renowned for its night-life, with enterprises such as Club Voodoo, The Grill, Milan and The Pulse regularly attracting international names. The Aura Complex, near O'Donnell Park, includes an Olympic-standard swimming pool, the Danny McDaid Athletic Track and an arena capable of hosting top-level events. Now run by Letterkenny Town Council, the area is expected to have around 50,000 inhabitants by 2020.[5] Geographical location Letterkenny is County Donegal's largest and most important town, providing the county with the necessary commercial, retail, social and economic facilities. Hundreds of people travel to and from Letterkenny everyday for work, whether in the town's many I.T. companies, General Hospital, schools and retail outlets. The following indicates the distance and travel time (on main routeways) between Letterkenny and Donegal's other main centres: Ballybofey - 21.3 km - 21 minutes; Ballyshannon - 68.7 km - 58 minutes; Buncrana - 40.1 km - 40 minutes; Carndonagh - 60.1 km - 1 hour; Creeslough - 26.2 km - 27 minutes; Donegal Town - 48.5 km - 45 minutes; Dunfanaghy - 36.1 km - 36 minutes; Dungloe - 50.1 km - 52 minutes; Falcarragh - 39.7 km - 42 minutes; Glenties 44 km - 46 minutes; Gweedore - 46.4 km - 48 minutes; Killybegs (via Donegal Town) - 75.7 km - 1 hour & 8 minutes; Lifford - 25.4 km - 26 minutes; Milford - 19.9 km - 25 minutes. Letterkenny is around 25 km from Derry and around 150 km from Belfast. History Further information: Battle of Farsetmore and Battle of Scarrifholis The modern town of Letterkenny began as a market town at the start of the 17th century, during the Plantation of Ulster. It may have been established on the site of an earlier Gaelic settlement. It was the first crossing point of the River Swilly. In the recent past, Letterkenny was a largely agricultural town, surrounded by extensive cattle and sheep grazing on what was then untilled hillside - at a time when Conwall (3 km west of Letterkenny) was the ecclesiastical and seaport centre. The waters of the Atlantic had not yet retreated from the basin of the Swilly, whose estuary at that time extended up almost as far as New Mills - proof of this may be found in those alluvial flat-lands between Oldtown and Port Road. Letterkenny 135 Rory O'Cannon, the last chieftain of the O'Cannon Clan, was killed in 1248. Godfrey O'Donnell succeeded Rory O'Cannon as King of Tír Conaill. He engaged the Norman lord Maurice FitzGerald, 2nd Lord of Offaly, in battle at Credan in the north of what is now County Sligo in 1257 in which both were badly wounded - Fitzgerald immediately fatally so. Godfrey (also dying from his wounds) retired to a crannóg in Lough Beag (Gartan Lake). O'Neill of Tyrone - taking advantage of Godfrey's fatal illness - demanded submission, hostages and pledges from the Cenél Conaill since they had no strong chieftain since the wounding The Market Square district c.1900 of Godfrey. Godfrey summoned his forces and led them himself, although he had to be carried on a litter (stretcher). O'Neill and his men were completely defeated by the Swilly in 1258. Godfrey died however after the battle as he was being carried through the town. He was buried in Conwall Cemetery. A cross-shaped coffin slab marks his grave to this day. The receding of the waters of the Atlantic eastwards enabled progress, and with the building of bridges etc., the town of Letterkenny started to take the shape it has today. In the wake of the Plantation of Ulster (which began around 1609), when a 4 square kilometres (unknown operator: u'strong' acres) area was granted to a Scotsman Patrick Crawford, the compact community formed. The honour of formally launching the town fell to Sir George Marbury who married Patrick Crawford's widow - Crawford having died suddenly while on a return visit to his native Scotland. Initially there were possibly fifty simple habitations sited where the Oldtown is situated today. The main streets, though now suffering traffic congestion, were simple pony tracks used by the hill farmers to come to the markets. The markets - started by Patrick Crawford with only a few animals - grew into much busier mart which are not present today. An ancient castle once stood near where the Cathedral of St. Eunan and St Columba stands today. Letterkenny Castle, built in 1625, was located south of Mount Southwell on Castle Street. Outlaw Redmond O' Hanlon found refuge there in 1690. No remains of the castle exist today.[6] During the Irish Rebellion of 1798, on 12 October, a large French force consisting of 3,000 men, and including Wolfe Tone, attempted to land in County Donegal near Lough Swilly. They The Market Square district c.2007 were intercepted by a large British Royal Navy force, and finally surrendered after a three hour battle without ever landing in Ireland. After Wolfe Tone was captured he was held for a short time at Laird's Hotel (opposite the Market Square) in the Main Street of Letterkenny[7] before being transferred to the nearby Derry Gaol. He was later tried by court-martial in Dublin and found guilty. He committed suicide in prison. Letterkenny In 1824, when the first description of Letterkenny as a modern town was written, it was stated that: "Within half a mile is the Port of Ballyraine, whither vessels of 100 tons bring iron, salt and colonial produce and whence they export hides and butter". Nothing remains now except the warehouses with the example of 19th century warehouse architecture.[8] Letterkenny achieved town status in the early 1920s following the partition of Ireland. When the Irish punt replaced the British Pound Sterling in Co. Donegal in 1928, many Irish banks that had been previously located in Derry (in the new Northern Ireland) opened branches in Letterkenny. Letterkenny made history in August 2012 when two winning Lotto tickets using the same numbers for the same draw were bought at two different locations in the town - Mac's Mace on the High Road and The Paper Post on Main Street. The occurrence made national news. A spokesperson for Lotto HQ in Dublin said it was the first time this had happened.[9] Etymology Letterkenny takes its name from the Irish Leitir Ceanainn, meaning "Hillside of the O'Cannons" – the O'Cannons being the last of the ancient chieftains of Tír Conaill. Although the O'Cannons were the last ruling chieftains in Tír Conaill, no evidence of forts or castles belonging to the clan exists in or around the Letterkenny district (leading to speculation on a possible derivation of the name Letterkenny: from the Irish 'Leitir Ceann-Fhoinn', meaning 'Fairheaded Hillside'). The O'Cannons are allegedly descended from two of Ireland's most renowned Kings: Conn of the Hundred Battles and Niall of the Nine Hostages. The O'Cannons have been described as 'Ancient Princes of Tír Connaill' and 'Valiant Chiefs'. However, their 350 year dynasty in Tír Connaill ended in 1250. Their ancient territory would seem to have been Tír Aeda (now the barony of Tirhugh). After the deaths of Ruairí Ó Canannain (Rory O'Cannon) and his son Niall Ó Canannain in 1250, the sept declined greatly in power. Brian Ó Néill (Brian O'Neill) died ten years later in 1260; he had supported an Ó Canannain claimant to Tír Conaill, i.e. to the Kingdom of Tír Conaill (Tirconnell). However, the O'Cannon Clan remained subserviant to the O'Donnell Clan, the Kings of Tír Chonaill from the early thirteenth century onwards. The personal name Canannain is a diminutive of Cano meaning 'wolf cub'. Canannain was fifth in descent from Flaithbertach mac Loingsig (died 765), high-king of Ireland; they were the descendants of Niall of the Nine Hostages (Irish: Niall Noigiallach), who died c. 405 A.D. by his son, Conall Gulban who gave his name to Tír Conaill, the 'Land of Conall', now County Donegal. By the early 17th century the name Uí Canannain had been anglicised to O'Cannon. Further anglicisation took place during the Penal Laws in the late 18th and early 19th centuries and the name in County Donegal became Cannon. In the early 1880s, there were just 200 families bearing the Cannon surname living in Co. Donegal, who were mainly tenant farmers. The Cannons/O'Canannains were of the ancient sept of Cenell Conaill, a branch of the northern Ui Neill and descend from Ruaidrí ua Canannain (died 30 November 950), King of Cenel Conaill, and grandson of Canannain, who flourished in the second half of the 9th century. One of Neill's most famous descendants was George Washington (?), the first President of the United States. The site of the ancient seat of the Ó Canannain was near Letterkenny (the largest town of County Donegal only since the 1950s), which is said on good authority (?) to represent the hillside of the O'Cannons (English translation). 136 Letterkenny 137 Demographics The population of Letterkenny and environs is 19,588 (based on the 2011 census carried out by the CSO).[1] The population of the town, if the current growth rate continues, is expected to reach 50,000 by 2020.[5] Letterkenny is the largest town in County Donegal. Despite having a long tradition of emigration that continued until the early 1990s, Letterkenny has recently had net immigration. The recent immigrants are mostly of foreign origin, with many immigrants from Eastern Europe, Africa, and Asia. This is reflected in the recent growth of immigrant restaurants and shops, including Chinese and Indian restaurants, as well as specialised shops run by and providing goods for Africans, Asians, South Americans, and Eastern Europeans. Letterkenny is home to the only Hindu temple in the Republic of Ireland.[4][10] The figures for ethnic and cultural background for people in the State in 2006 reveals that 16% of Letterkenny's population are non-nationals. The figures also show that most of Donegal's non-national population are living in the town. Of the town's total population 2,709 are non-nationals.[11] According to the 2006 census 4,957 people have a disability illness, 640 people have a registered disability, 537 have a chronic illness while 345 suffer from a psychological or an emotional condition.[12] The 2006 census also revealed that there were 199 travellers living within the towns environs.[13] Climate Letterkenny's climate is classified as Temperate Oceanic (Köppen Cfb) and is significantly milder than some other locations in the world at a similar latitude, this is due to the towns position near the Atlantic Coast and exposure to the warmth of the Gulf Stream. Due to its northerly latitude, Letterkenny experiences long summer days and short winter days. Summers are cool with temperatures rarely exceeding 25°C, while winters are relatively mild with daytime temperatures rarely dropping below 0°C. Extreme heat is very rare however the town can on occasion receive extreme cold from the Arctic where temperatures drop several degrees below 0°C. Snow is relatively uncommon however the town receives on average 25 days of recorded snowfall per year, the vast majority of this occurring between December and March. Humidity is high year round and rainfall is spread quite evenly throughout the year, with winter months receiving the most rainy days. Climate data for Letterkenny, Donegal Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Average high °C (°F) 7 8 10 12 15 15 16 17 16 13 10 7 Average low °C (°F) 3 3 4 4 7 10 12 12 9 7 5 3 Precipitation mm (inches) Year 98.5 97.9 60.6 77.4 66.6 69.9 71.3 68.3 80.6 126.8 95.5 98.6 1012.0 (3.878) (3.854) (2.386) (3.047) (2.622) (2.752) (2.807) (2.689) (3.173) (4.992) (3.76) (3.882) (39.843) Avg. precipitation days 19 13 16 12 12 13 13 15 16 18 18 18 183 Avg. snowy days 6.6 6.0 4.6 2.4 0.2 0 0 0 0 0.1 1.9 3.9 25.7 Mean monthly sunshine hours 37.2 60.9 95.5 171.9 192.2 184.8 132.3 165.8 116.4 75.8 43.6 27.9 1304.3 Source #1: MSN [14] Source #2: Met Éireann [15] Letterkenny 138 Politics Local Services such as waste disposal/recycling, maintenance of town parks, provision of social housing and traffic management are the remit of Letterkenny Town Council, elected by the town's electorate every four years. It is one of only four town councils in the Donegal County Council area. The make-up of the current town council following the last election is one Fine Gael, four Fianna Fáil, one Sinn Féin, one Letterkenny Residents Party, and two Independents. For elections to Donegal County Council, the town is part of the Letterkenny local electoral area which elects seven councillors. Letterkenny Courthouse. National Letterkenny is part of the Donegal North–East constituency of Dáil Éireann. There are three TDs (Teachtaí Dáil) in this constituency, Pádraig Mac Lochlainn of Sinn Féin, Joe McHugh of Fine Gael, and Charlie McConalogue of Fianna Fáil. Architecture Many of Letterkenny's more notable buildings were built in the early 1850s—or earlier. These include educational and ecclesiastical buildings. The town's tallest building is the Cathedral of St. Eunan and St Columba, which was completed in 1901. The Cathedral was designed by William Hague from County Cavan. It is built in a light Victorian neo-Gothic version of the French 13th-century Gothic style. Located opposite the Cathedral, at the junction of Church Street with Cathedral Square, is Conwal Parish Church, parts of which date from the 17th century. Another dominant building in the town is the historic St Eunan's College. St Eunan's is a three-storey castelated structure with four round towers at each corner of the building. It was constructed in the Edwardian version of the neo-Hiberno-Romanesque style. Other architecturally notable buildings can be found at Mount Southwell Terrace, which is located at the top of the Market Square, just off Castle Street. This Georgian-style terrace of red brick was built in 1837 by Lord Southwell. The terrace contains five of the most distinctive examples of Georgian houses in Letterkenny and also served as the holiday home of Maud Gonne who stayed Cathedral of Saints Eunan and Columba of the Roman Catholic Diocese of Raphoe dominates the Letterkenny skyline here while on holiday in Letterkenny 139 Donegal.[16] St. Conal's Psychiatric Hospital is a large Victorian neo-Georgian structure located on the Kilmacrennan Road in the town. One of the most notable buildings in West Ulster, the oldest parts date from the 1860s. The hospital's chapel was built in the neo-Norman style in the 1930s. The Donegal County Museum is housed in the old workhouse and is located on the High Road. It was built in 1843 in the neo-Tudor style typical of this kind of building. In more recent years, Letterkenny has seen more unusual architectural development. The new Letterkenny Town Council Offices, known locally as "The Grasshouse", were designed by Donegal-based MacGabhann Architects. One of its most notable features is its distinctive sloping grass roof situated above a broad band of aluka matt cladding although it is also noticeable for its runway-like ramp to the first-floor concourse. It is said to be a building of international interest.[17] Mount Southwell Terrace Media and the arts Theatre There is a large cinema complex in the town. Located on Canal Lane, Century Cinemas[18] is an eight-screen cinema. An Grianán Theatre,[19] the largest theatre in County Donegal with a seating capacity of 383. There is the Letterkenny Arts Centre and recent additions to the arts infrastructure include modern additions to Letterkenny Library and Arts Centre and the Cristeph Gallery. Letterkenny Regional Cultural Centre, located behind An Grianán Theatre, opened on 9 July 2007. The town has an active music scene. Festivals The town recently hosted the annual Irish traditional An Grianán Theatre music festival, the Fleadh Cheoil for two consecutive years. Both festivals were organised by Comhaltas Ceoltóirí Éireann. The town has also hosted the international Pan Celtic Festival for two consecutive years (2006 and 2007). Celts from Ireland, Wales, Scotland, Isle of Man, Brittany and Cornwall visited Letterkenny for the "craic agus ceoil". Along with the daily street performances on Market Square, An Grianán Theatre and The Courtyard Shopping Centre, song, fiddle, harp and dance contests also featured. In 2008 Letterkenny represented Ireland in the Entente Florale, having scooped Gold in the Large Urban Centre category of the 2007 National Tidy Town Awards. Locally there was a minor furore as all flags of competing nations were displayed in prominent areas of the town, with some difficulty encountered when locals discovered the controversial Union Jack flag hanging from a pole adjacent to the library and Paddy Delap's newsagent. The flag is still upsetting to many people angered by continuing British rule in Northern Ireland and as such led to an intensely Letterkenny heated debate on local radio station Highland Radio[20][21] on the day the judges were in town. The flag was first mounted the previous day (7 August) and had to be taken down when some concerns were raised about its safety on a busy Thursday night. It was remounted the following day. Nevertheless the town won gold in the competition.[22] Social The town is a popular nightlife location for the local catchment area and, indeed, for the rest of Ulster - especially at the weekends and particularly for visitors from nearby Derry City. The Main Street, originally the retail centre of the town, has become a centre for popular night clubs and pubs, boosted by the remnants of its old shopping district. There are several nightclubs in the area including Milan Nightclub which often hosts international tours and DJs and The Pulse who offer live bands regularly.The Grill Music Venue is a popular nightclub on Sundays, which regularly plays host to acts such as Shane MacGowan, Ash, Hot Chip, Dirty Sanchez, Fun Lovin' Criminals.[23] Club Voodoo is a highly regarded[24] bar and night-club on Lower Main Street and has attracted figures such as Sander van Doorn, Markus Schulz, Paul van Dyk, Eddie Halliwell and Marco V in recent years. There are many pubs such as The Central Bar (established 1808), The Cavern, Sister Sara's, Josie's Bar, McGinley's and The Cottage Bar. Events Annual events include the: • • • • • St. Patrick's Day Parade (March) North West 10K (May) Donegal International Rally (June) Earagail Arts Festival (June/July) Donegal Harvest Rally (October) Media Letterkenny can receive all national radio stations, television stations and cable and satellite services. The area can also receive many Northern Irish stations, including C9TV, a local television station based in Derry. The national broadcaster RTÉ has a studio located in the Ballyraine district. The local radio station is Highland Radio which broadcasts from the town to north, east and west County Donegal, West Tyrone and the City of Derry. It began broadcasting in 1990. Letterkenny is home to several media companies. The main regional newspaper in the town and county is The Donegal Democrat (owned by The Derry Journal), whose offices also prints two other titles every week - the Donegal People's Press on Tuesday and also Donegal on Sunday. Another local paper is The Derry People Donegal News (popularly known locally as The Derry People). It is distributed on a Friday, as well as having a Monday edition. The Milford-based Tirconaill Tribune, printed in Letterkenny, is distributed throughout the county. The town also produces two freesheet newspapers, the Letterkenny People (previously the Letterkenny Listener), which is distributed on a Thursday, and the Letterkenny Post, which prints on a Thursday night for Friday circulation. The Derry Journal itself is also a major newspaper in the town and it's environs. 140 Letterkenny Crime Letterkenny is one of the worst towns in Ireland for public order offences. There were a total of 777 public order offences recorded in the town in 2003 with 1505 recorded in 2008. These statistics place Letterkenny as the sixth worst town in Ireland for public order offences, worse than the notoriously dangerous Dublin suburbs of Coolock and Clondalkin.[25] Recent years have seen serious crimes in Letterkenny being linked with feuds between gangs within certain areas of the town, mainly the Mountain Top and Oldtown and the surrounding areas. In one such incident a man was seriously injured when attacked with pitchforks and slash hooks in the Mountain Top area of the town.[26] The Oldtown area has seen several feuds in recent years - dubbed the "Battle of the Oldtown" by the media. In one incident a man was stabbed and another taken to hospital. The gangs used ninja-type weapons of chains and swords. They only calmed upon the intervention of a local priest.[27] Daggers, knives, chains and rapier-type swords were later confiscated by gardaí.[28] The Main Street has seen numerous assaults,[29] stabbings,[30][31][32][33] sexual assaults,[34][35] drug raids[36] and attacks on Gardaí[37] in the past. Drug crime has become a problem in recent years, notably in the now demolished mart building.[38] In recent years local community organizations, ranging from the local authority to local businesses, have all set about addressing social issues. Economy Retail The retail trade in Letterkenny includes modern shopping centres and family owned local shops - often providing handmade crafts. Many High Street stores operate in Letterkenny. The town is the north-west regions major shopping centre[39] and helps to serve outlying areas including rural County Donegal and Derry. The three main shopping malls are the Courtyard Shopping Centre, the Forte Shopping Centre and the Letterkenny Shopping Centre, the latter being the oldest. Built in 1984, it is the largest shopping centre Letterkenny's Upper Main Street, with Crossview House in the centre background. in County Donegal[40], and was the first of several such complexes in Letterkenny. It is also the third largest in the Harcourt Developments retail portfolio. While originally built on the outskirts of the town, urban expansion means it now lies in the town proper. Letterkenny has been identified as one of Europe's fastest growing towns by business owners.[41] The centre remained largely unchanged until 2004, when the centre was expanded [42], and new lighting, flooring and decor were added. More retail units were constructed along with the expansion of the Tesco outlet and thus becoming "one of the Major developments in Ireland" [43]. The carpark was extended to allow for a capacity of 750. The entire project was overseen by the Burke Morrison Engineering firm.[44] These centres feature numerous international and Irish chains such as Marks & Spencer, Tesco, 141 Letterkenny 142 Eason and others. There are also many other small centres such as the Glencar Shopping Centre and the Market Centre. Previously, Main Street served as the main shopping area in the town but trade has now shifted further afield expanding the town in the process. The Main Street is home to many older establishments including R. McCullagh Jewellers,[45] dating from 1869, and Speers Department Store. Newer shopping areas in the town include the Letterkenny Retail Parks on Pearse Street and Canal Lane. Smaller streets such as Church Street and Castle Street have grown in recent years with businesses such as bakeries, pharmacies and fashion outlets having opened. The Market Square has also attracted fresh business. Industry The town's major employers include the General Hospital (which grew from St. Conal's Psychiatric Hospital), Pramerica, and the Department of Social and Family Affairs, the latter having decentralised to the town in 1990, following a government decision to relocate 200 civil service jobs from Dublin. Letterkenny is at the centre of industry in the northwest of Ireland. Eircom, Boston Scientific and Pacificare are significant employers in the region. As the main commercial centre of north Donegal, Letterkenny also has a host of financial service institutions, legal firms and small businesses. There has been a significant decline in the manufacturing base, while employment has grown in the service sector. Since 2002 there has been a significant expansion in the retail sector. Allied to this growth has been the development of the cultural infrastructure. This includes the opening of An Grianán Theatre and the development of a new arts centre. Traffic congestion on Letterkenny's High Road Letterkenny is also home of the confectionery manufacturers Oatfield. It is based at the entrance to Ballyraine, near the town's central area. Rockhill Barracks was once a major contributor to the local economy but closed in January 2009 due to military cuts.[46] Modern Timber Homes, a timber-frame manufacturing company is located at Bonagee. Construction work on a private hospital, which is to provide radiotherapy services to the northwest region, commenced in June 2008. Construction of the first independent hospital in the county will cost €70 million. The hospital will provide four surgical theatres, renal dialysis and an MRI and PET scan. The 1,100m² (12,000 ft²) Wyndale Clinic was due to be completed in 2009.[47] The economy in the town is strongly dependent on cross-border trade, and times of economic boom are determined mostly by the currency exchange rate between the Euro and the British Pound. Letterkenny 143 Education The Letterkenny Institute of [48] Technology (LYIT; known locally as the Regional), which is situated east of the town centre on the Port Road, is a centre for engineering, information technology, materials science, design, business and nursing humanities. The institute has a student population of 3000 and is one of the largest institutes of third level education anywhere in Ulster. Letterkenny Institute of Technology St Eunan's College is a major secondary education centre in Letterkenny. Situated just north-west of the town centre, it was built in 1906. Primary and secondary education in the town is organised similarly to the rest of Ireland. There are 5 primary schools in Letterkenny, including Scoil Colmcille and Woodland School, while there are 4 secondary schools.[49] Coláiste Ailigh is one of the "gaelscoileanna" in Letterkenny. It is a secondary school specifically designed for education through the Irish language. It was opened in 2000. The Loreto Convent Secondary School, adjacent to St Eunan's Cathedral, is over 150 years old. Sport Letterkenny has a modern community purpose-built leisure and sports complex, comprising a swimming pool, football pitches (both natural grass and astroturf), and sports halls. Gaelic football, rugby and soccer are the most popular sports in the town, but many other minority sports are practiced also, such as hurling, boxing, karate, kick-boxing, handball, bowling, golf, swimming and gymnastics. Gaelic games There are two Gaelic Athletic Association Clubs in Letterkenny, St Eunan's GAA and Letterkenny Gaels Link label [50] who play their home games at O'Donnell Park and at Páirc na nGael, The Glebe respectively. Almost uniquely in Ireland, Letterkenny Rugby Club and Letterkenny Gaels GAA Club share facilities. Gaelic football, like most of County Donegal, is the predominant sport, although soccer is also very popular. Rugby Rugby is also popular in the town, being played at various levels, from school to senior league level. Letterkenny RFC, which was founded in 1973, is the major rugby club in the town. It has recently forged links with New Zealand rugby fraternities due to the fact the first All-Black captain, Dave Gallaher was born in Ramelton, a village eight miles (13 km) from Letterkenny. The club's rugby ground in Letterkenny was named The Dave Gallaher Memorial Park in his honour in November 2005 by a visiting contingent of All-Black players, led by captain Tana Umaga. Letterkenny 144 Association football Letterkenny Rovers are one of the most well-known soccer clubs in the town. The team play their home games at Leckview Park, at Canal Road, in the town. Bonagee United are another local team and play their home games at Dry Arch Park and Glencar Celtic F.C are another team from the town who play in the Donegal League and recent winners of the Saturday League Cup . There are a number of schoolboy soccer clubs within the town's environs and an annual league is played at Under 12, Under 14 and Under 16 age groups. Other sports Letterkenny has two men's basketball teams, Letterkenny Heat and Letterkenny IT, as well as a junior basketball club, Letterkenny Blaze.[51] Letterkenny Golf Club is located just outside the town centre. There are also pitch and putt and tennis facilities in the town. Letterkenny Sports Complex, a state of the art leisure centre complete with skate park, is located on the edge of the town. Letterkenny Athletic Club is also located in the town. The town also hosts the Donegal International Rally on the third weekend of June every year and the Donegal Harvest Rally every October. There is a campaign being run by a local councillor for the construction of a horse racing track and facilities on land at the Big Isle, on the outskirts of the town.[52] Transport Air The nearest airport is City of Derry Airport, which is located about 48 kilometres (unknown operator: u'strong' mi) to the east at Eglinton. There are daily flights to London (Stansted), London (Luton), Dublin, Birmingham, Glasgow, and Liverpool, and twice weekly flights to Alicante in Spain. Letterkenny Infrastructure Hub & Midlands Gateway access Donegal Airport (locally known as Carrickfinn Airport) is also less than an hour away, located to the west in The Rosses. Aer Arann provide two flights daily from Carrickfinn Airport to Dublin and flights daily to Glasgow (Prestwick). The nearest major international airport to Letterkenny is Belfast International Airport (popularly known as Aldergrove Airport), located around seventy-five miles to the south-east at Aldergrove, near Antrim, in County Antrim. Letterkenny Letterkenny has a small privately operated airfield situated on the outskirts of the town. It is run and operated by the Letterkenny Flying Club. The airstrip is 550 metres of grass and has also a very narrow tarmac strip running alongside it for use by ultralights. The airfield is home to quite a few ultralights and the Flying Club run a big open weekend each June where many planes fly in to attend it. The airfield is only suitable for small private aircraft and ultralights and there is no commercial traffic whatsoever there, it is occasionally used by businessmen to land their small aircraft at and it is approximately 3 miles from the town. The flying club has a website at http:/ / www. LetterkennyFlyingClub.com Rail The town was, in times past, connected with the once extensive narrow gauge rail network of County Donegal. This provided connections to Derry (and through there to Dublin and Belfast), to Lifford and Strabane, to Gweedore and Burtonport, and to 1906 Irish Rail Infrastructure (including Letterkenny station) Carndonagh, north of Derry. The rail system was built in the late 19th century, with the last extensions opening in the 20th century. Some of these lines were never profitable, built using British government subsidies, described as an attempt to kill the Home Rule movement "with kindness". Only a couple of decades later, political events resulted in rail companies operating across two jurisdictions where there had previously been one. This had devastating effects on an already fragile economic situation, resulting eventually in the final closure of all parts of the rail system in the area by 1960. Today, the closest railway station to County Donegal is Waterside Station in the nearby City of Derry. This station is owned and run by Northern Ireland Railways (N.I.R.) and runs via Coleraine to Belfast Central railway station and Belfast Great Victoria Street railway station. The strategically important Belfast-Derry railway line is to be upgraded to facilitate more frequent trains and improvements to the permanent way such as track and signalling to enable faster services. N I Railways (Translink) [53] 145 Letterkenny 146 Road Letterkenny Bus Station Letterkenny is well served by road transport. Bus Éireann operates a number of bus services from its bus depot to Dublin (n.32), Derry (n.64) and Galway (n.64) a number of times each day. Many private coach companies have daily services to and from the town. The Lough Swilly Bus Company (popularly known locally as Lough Swilly or the Swilly Bus) operates a local transport service in co-operation with Bus Éireann. Currently, access from Dublin is improving with motorway status roads being constructed along the route, allowing cars to complete the Dublin-Letterkenny journey in about 3hours 30mins. Galway, to the south, is 4 hours away by car, while Belfast, to the south-east, by car, is only 2 hours away. A number of private companies provide daily bus services to Belfast several times per day, especially Patrick Gallagher Coaches, who are based at Brinalack in Gaoth Dobhair. Letterkenny has no cross-border service linking it directly to Belfast. Taxi services are available from a rank on the Main St. at the Market Square. Two national primary roads serve the town: the N13 from the South (Stranorlar) and the N14 from the East (Lifford). Community Tidy Towns In 2011, Letterkenny was named as the tidiest town in County Donegal, receiving 306 points, only four points behind the overall national winner, which was Killarney in County Kerry. It received a total of 47/50 points in the landscaping category and this was the highest number of points scored of any town in this category. Out of the 821 entrants in the 2011 competition, Letterkenny came in 8th place overall and received a gold medal for the 9th consecutive year.[54] In recent years, The town was voted 'Best Kept Urban Centre' in the 2007 'Best Kept Town Awards'[55] and 'Tidiest Large Urban Centre' in the 2007 Tidy Towns competition,[56] an improvement on 2002 when, after a National Anti-Litter League survey carried out by An Taisce, the town was compared to The Liberties in Dublin in relation to litter.[57] The region has maintained its litter free status according to the latest study by business group Irish Business Against Litter, published on 23 August 2010.[58] Youth facilities A number of youth groups provide services and support within Letterkenny. The Loft LK (Learning Opportunities For Teens) is located on Port Road on a site previously occupied by the old cinema. Opened in April 2006, the LOFT provides a supervised meeting environment, offering music, computer games, satellite TV, a pool table, and other amenities. Band nights, a film club, and other social events are sometimes hosted. The LOFT offers courses in media studies, health, leadership, writing, arts and crafts, sign language, teambuilding, photography and personal development. The Youth Information Centre (YIC) is located in the same building as the LOFT. It offers computers and broadband facilities, information that may be of interest to young people and also offers a wide range of courses and groups including a very successful media group where young people get the opportunity to work on radio and TV production. Letterkenny 147 Letterkenny Youth Theatre is run in association with An Grianán Theatre and usually meets on Fridays. It offers young people the opportunity to gain experience in acting and stage management. It has run a number of small one-off productions and ran productions in early 2007 in An Grianán. Sister towns/cities The following places are twinned with Letterkenny: • • • Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania, United States[59] Wieluń, Poland[60] Derry, Northern Ireland Footnotes [1] "Census 2011 Results - Profile 1 Town and Country – Population Distribution and Movements and Population by Area" (http:/ / www. cso. ie/ en/ media/ csoie/ census/ documents/ census2011vol1andprofile1/ Press release Census 2011 Profile 1 for website. pdf) (PDF). Central Statistics Office Census 2011 Reports. Central Statistics Office Ireland. April 2012. . Retrieved 2012-06-24. [2] http:/ / getamap. ordnancesurvey. co. uk/ getamap/ frames. htm?mapAction=gaz& gazName=g& gazString=C171121 [3] Draft Letterkenny Plan 2009 - 2015 Volume 1 (http:/ / www. donegalcoco. ie/ NR/ rdonlyres/ C46404E1-3F24-48FF-A6B2-A683BF36576C/ 0/ DraftletterkennyPlan20092015Volume1. pdf) - Page 75. [4] "From timber homes to god-house" (http:/ / www. independent. ie/ national-news/ from-timber-homes-to-godhouse-1062968. html). Irish Independent (Independent News & Media). 21 August 2007. . Retrieved 21 August 2007. [5] "Letterkenny Population Rise" (http:/ / www. letterkenny. ie/ Article_Details. aspx?article_id=86& tscategory_id=246). Letterkenny. . [6] Donegal News - 18 April 2007. [7] Wolf Tone Captured in Letterkenny (http:/ / aohdiv1. org/ wolftone. htm) [8] Only Warehouse Architecture remains (http:/ / www. directorytourism. com/ Tourism-By-Region/ destination-letterkenny-tourism-l741. html?language=Spanish) [9] Harkin, Greg (13 August 2012). "It could be you.. and you too, Letterkenny scoops two Lotto wins" (http:/ / www. independent. ie/ national-news/ it-could-be-you-and-you-too-letterkenny-scoops-two-lotto-wins-3199839. html). Irish Independent (Independent News & Media). . Retrieved 13 August 2012. [10] "Letterkenny Indian Community Centre" (http:/ / letterkennytemple. org/ ). . [11] Donegal Democrat report, 31 July 2007 [12] Donegal News report, 9 November 2007 [13] Census 2006 - Irish Travellers (http:/ / www. cso. ie/ census/ census2006results/ volume_5/ Tables_12_to_22. pdf) [14] http:/ / weather. msn. com/ monthly_averages. aspx?& wealocations=wc%3aEIXX0025& setunit=C [15] http:/ / www. met. ie/ climate/ monthly-weather-bulletin. asp [16] Mount Southwell (http:/ / www. flickr. com/ photos/ 26318904@N05/ 2486239621/ ), on flickr. com (accessed 2008-05-29) [17] "In the ascendant" (http:/ / ireland. archiseek. com/ news/ 2002/ 000204. htm), Archiseek, August 4, 2002 (accessed 2008-05-29) [18] Century Cinemas Website (http:/ / www. centurycinemas. ie/ ) (accessed on 2008-05-29) [19] An Grianán Theatre Website (http:/ / www. angrianan. com/ ) (accessed on 2008-05-29) [20] (http:/ / www. highlandradio. com/ ) [21] (http:/ / www. highlandradio. com/ shaundoherty. php) [22] Letterkenny wins gold medal in Entente Florale [[Highland Radio (http:/ / www. highlandradio. com/ news. php?articleid=000002731)] September 22, 2008] [23] Live at the Grill (http:/ / www. thegrillniteclub. com/ ) [24] (http:/ / www. galwayfirst. ie/ content/ view/ 3181/ 1005/ ) [25] Letterkenny listed as one of worst towns for public order offences (http:/ / www. nwipp-newspapers. com/ DN/ free/ 347333149449880. php), Donegal News, March 16, 2009 [26] Traveller Feud (http:/ / news. bbc. co. uk/ 2/ hi/ uk_news/ northern_ireland/ 4392731. stm) [27] Priest to help end dispute (http:/ / www. irishnews. com/ searchlog. asp?reason=denied_empty& script_name=/ pageacc. asp& path_info=/ pageacc. asp& tser1=ser& sid=571089), Irish News, October 27, 2007 [28] Battle of the Oldtown (http:/ / www. nwipp-newspapers. com/ dn/ free/ 290147219407694. php) [29] Gardai issue appeal to licensed trade after serious assaults in Letterkenny (http:/ / www. belfasttelegraph. co. uk/ news/ northwest-edition/ daily/ gardai-issue-appeal-to-licensed-trade-after-serious-assaults-in-letterkenny-13444054. html), Belfast Telegraph, May 22, 2007 [30] Man due in court over Donegal stabbing (http:/ / www. independent. ie/ breaking-news/ national-news/ man-due-in-court-over-donegal-stabbing-1501733. html), Irish Independent, October 17, 2008 [31] Two hurt in separate assaults (http:/ / www. independent. ie/ national-news/ two-hurt-in-separate-assaults-72586. html), Irish Independent, October 10, 2006 Letterkenny [32] Dubliner held on stabbing and drug supply charges (http:/ / www. irishtimes. com/ newspaper/ ireland/ 2008/ 1014/ 1223921126579. html), Irish Times, October 14, 2008 [33] Horror Knife Attack (http:/ / www. nwipp-newspapers. com/ DN/ free/ 295448459613054. php), Donegal News, 18 September 2009 [34] Gardai fear spate of sex attacks are linked (http:/ / www. independent. ie/ national-news/ gardai-fear-spate-of-sex--attacks-are-linked-286696. html), Irish Independent, November 23, 2002 [35] Gardai launch search for sex-attack duo (http:/ / www. independent. ie/ national-news/ gardai-launch-search-for-sexattack-duo-111630. html), Irish Independent, February 6, 2006 [36] Gardaí make two cannabis seizures overnight (http:/ / www. irishtimes. com/ newspaper/ breaking/ 2001/ 0907/ breaking12. html), Irish Times, September 9, 2001 [37] Spitting Letterkenny man "beginning, middle and end of a blaggard" - Judge Kilrane (http:/ / www. donegaldemocrat. ie/ 3423/ Spitting-Letterkenny-man-34beginning-middle. 4469994. jp), Donegal Democrat, September 9, 2008 [38] Letterkenny Post 18 April 2008 - Tear It Down (http:/ / www. letterkennypost. com/ 2008/ 04/ 18/ tear-it-down/ ) [39] Letterkenny Shopping Capital of North-West (http:/ / www. multinewsireland. ie/ ) [40] "Relaunch for Letterkenny Shopping Centre" (http:/ / web. archive. org/ web/ 20060219095712/ http:/ / archives. tcm. ie/ businesspost/ 2004/ 12/ 12/ story934. asp). Sunday Business Post. 2004-12-12. . Retrieved 2012-02-12. [41] "THE PLAYERS" (http:/ / www. fyini. com/ pages/ viewstory. asp?itemID=88). fyini.com. 2005-09-05. . Retrieved 2007-10-12. [42] "New look for Donegal centre" (http:/ / www. independent. ie/ unsorted/ property/ new-look-for-donegal-centre-144690. html). Irish Independent. 2004-11-24. . Retrieved 2007-10-11. [43] Ireland's Shopping Meccas (http:/ / www. ucd. ie/ alumni/ ucd_connections/ ucdconnections10/ ucdpg8_9. pdf) [44] Burke Morrison Projects (http:/ / www. burkemorrison. com/ projects. asp) [45] R. McCullagh Jewellers Website (http:/ / www. rmccullagh. ie/ index. aspx) (accessed 2008-05-29) [46] Four army barracks, military hospital to be closed (http:/ / www. independent. ie/ national-news/ budget-2009/ the-measures/ four-army-barracks-military-hospital-to-be-closed-1498947. html) Irish Independent, October 15, 2008 [47] Letterkenny Private Hospital (http:/ / www. thesundaybusinesspost. com/ post/ pages/ p/ story. aspx-qqqt=IRELAND-qqqm=news-qqqid=27006-qqqx=1. asp) [48] Letterkenny Institute of Technology Website (http:/ / www. lyit. ie/ ) (accessed 2008-05-29) [49] Education (http:/ / www. letterkennyguide. com/ education. asp), at Letterkenny Guide.com [50] http:/ / letterkennygaels. donegal. gaa. ie [51] http:/ / www. blazebasketball. ie [52] Horse Racing Facilities (http:/ / www. build. ie/ construction_news. asp?newsid=71334) [53] http:/ / www. translink. co. uk/ Timetables/ NI-Railways-Timetables/ [54] (http:/ / www. tidytowns. ie) [55] Best Kept Town (http:/ / www. environ. ie/ en/ Environment/ Waste/ LitterPollution/ TidyTownsCompetition/ News/ MainBody,14873,en. htm) [56] Tidiest Large Urban Centre (http:/ / www. tidytowns. ie/ ) [57] Letterkenny as filthy as Liberties (http:/ / www. highbeam. com/ doc/ 1P2-10665023. html) Belfast Telegraph May 29, 2002 [58] Letterkenny is Irelands 15th cleanest town (http:/ / ivideo. ie/ viewArticle. php?article_id=281& title=Letterkenny_is_Irelands_15th_cleanest_town) www.ivideo.ie 2010 [59] Elizabethtown Borough Website (http:/ / www. etownonline. com/ history. cfm) (accessed 2008-05-29) [60] Wielun Website (in English) (http:/ / www. um. wielun. pl/ index. php?page=gmina-in-numbers-location) (accessed 2008-05-29) External links Letterkenny travel guide from Wikitravel • • • • • Letterkenny Online, Letterkenny's Online Information Centre (http://www.letterkennyonline.com/) Letterkenny Town Council (http://www.letterkenny.ie/) Letterkenny Chamber of Commerce and Industry (http://www.letterkennychamber.com/) Map of Letterkenny (http://www.johnthemap.co.uk/pages/donegal/letterkenny.html) Letterkenny Community Centre (http://www.letcomcentre.ie/) 148 Magee of Donegal 149 Magee of Donegal Magee of Donegal is a clothing manufacturer and retailer based in Donegal, a town located in the south of County Donegal in the Province of Ulster in Ireland. The company is best known for their Donegal tweed, but also manufactures items from linen, wool and other materials. The company traces its origins to 1866,[1] when the founder, John Magee, opened a clothing shop in Donegal Town. The company has supplied cloth for the uniforms of Ireland's state airline, Aer Lingus. External links • Magee Clothing [2] References [1] "Magee to end production in Donegal" (http:/ / www. rte. ie/ news/ 2006/ 0217/ jobs2-business. html). RTÉ. 2006-02-16. . Retrieved 2007-09-04. [2] http:/ / www. mageeireland. com Loom A loom is a device used to weave cloth. The basic purpose of any loom is to hold the warp threads under tension to facilitate the interweaving of the weft threads. The precise shape of the loom and its mechanics may vary, but the basic function is the same. Etymology The word "loom" comes from the Old English "geloma" formed from ge-(perfective prefix) and loma, a root of unknown origin; this meant utensil or tool of any kind. In 1404 it was used to mean a machine to enable weaving thread into cloth.[1] By 1838 it had gained the meaning of a machine for interlacing thread as in weaving, knitting or lacemaking.[2] Draper power loom in Lowell, Massachusetts, USA Weaving Weaving is done by intersecting the longitudinal threads, the warp, i.e. "that which is thrown across", with the transverse threads, the weft, i.e. "that which is woven". The major components of the loom are the warp beam, heddles, harnesses or shafts (as few as two, four is common, sixteen not unheard of), shuttle, reed and takeup roll. In the loom, yarn processing includes shedding, picking, battening and taking-up operations. These are the principal motions. A woman in Konya, Turkey works at a vertical loom • Shedding. Shedding is the raising of part of the warp yarn to form a shed (the vertical space between the raised and unraised warp yarns), through which the filling yarn, carried by the shuttle, can be inserted. On the modern loom, simple and intricate shedding operations are performed automatically by the heddle or heald frame, also Loom 150 known as a harness. This is a rectangular frame to which a series of wires, called heddles or healds, are attached. The yarns are passed through the eye holes of the heddles, which hang vertically from the harnesses. The weave pattern determines which harness controls which warp yarns, and the number of harnesses used depends on the complexity of the weave. Two common methods of controlling the heddles are dobbies and a Jacquard Head. • Picking. As the harnesses raise the heddles or healds, which raise the warp yarns, the shed is created. The filling yarn in inserted through the shed by a small carrier device called a shuttle. The shuttle is normally pointed at each end to allow passage through the shed. In a traditional shuttle loom, the filling yarn is wound onto a quill, which in turn is mounted in the shuttle. The filling yarn emerges through a hole in the shuttle as it moves across the loom. A single crossing of the shuttle from one side of the loom to the other is known as a pick. As the shuttle moves back and forth across the shed, it weaves an edge, or selvage, on each side of the fabric to prevent the fabric from raveling. Shuttles • Battening. As the shuttle moves across the loom laying down the fill yarn, it also passes through openings in another frame called a reed (which resembles a comb). With each picking operation, the reed presses or battens each filling yarn against the portion of the fabric that has already been formed. The point where the fabric is formed is called the fell. Conventional shuttle looms can operate at speeds of about 150 to 160 picks per minute.[3] There are two secondary motions, because with each weaving operation the newly constructed fabric must be wound on a cloth beam. This process is called taking up. At the same time, the warp yarns must be let off or released from the warp beams. To become fully automatic, a loom needs a tertiary motion, the filling stop motion. This will brake the loom, if the weft thread breaks.[3] An automatic loom requires 0.125 hp to 0.5 hp to operate. Parts of loom sley of lay, shuttle, shuttle box, picker, reed, warp beam, back beam, breast beam, cloth beam, heddles, harnesses. Types of looms Back strap loom Loom 151 A simple loom which has its roots in ancient civilizations comprising two sticks or bars between which the warps are stretched. One bar is attached to a fixed object and the other to the weaver usually by means of a strap around the back. On traditional looms, the two main sheds are operated by means of a shed roll over which one set of warps pass, and continuous string heddles which encase each of the warps in the other set. The weaver leans back and uses their body weight to tension the loom. To open the shed controlled by the string heddles, the weaver relaxes tension on the warps and raises the heddles. The other shed is usually opened by simply drawing the shed roll toward the weaver. Both simple and complex textiles can be woven on this loom. Width is limited to how far the weaver can reach from side to side to pass the shuttle. Warp faced textiles, often decorated with intricate pick-up A back strap loom with a shed-rod. patterns woven in complementary and supplementary warp techniques are woven by indigenous peoples today around the world. They produce such things as belts, ponchos, bags, hatbands and carrying cloths. Supplementary weft patterning and brocading is practiced in many regions. Balanced weaves are also possible on the backstrap loom. Today, commercially produced backstrap loom kits often include a rigid heddle. Warp weighted loom The warp-weighted loom is a vertical loom that may have originated in the Neolithic period. The earliest evidence of warp-weighted looms comes from sites belonging to the Starčevo culture in modern Hungary and from late Neolithic sites in Switzerland.[4] This loom was used in Ancient Greece, and spread north and west throughout Europe thereafter.[5] Its defining characteristic is hanging weights (loom weights) which keep bundles of the warp threads taut. Frequently, extra warp thread is wound around the weights. When a weaver has reached the bottom of the available warp, the completed section can be rolled around the top beam, and additional lengths of warp threads can be unwound from the weights to continue. This frees the weaver from vertical size constraints. Drawloom A drawloom is a hand-loom for weaving figured cloth. In a drawloom, a "figure harness" is used to control each warp thread separately.[6] A drawloom requires two operators, the weaver and an assistant called a "drawboy" to manage the figure harness. Handloom Elements of a foot-treadle floor loom • Wood frame • Seat for weaver • Warp beam- let off • Warp threads Loom 152 • Back beam or platen • Rods – used to make a shed • Heddle frame - heald frame - harness • Heddle- heald - the eye • Shuttle with weft yarn • Shed • Completed fabric • Breast beam • Batten with reed comb • Batten adjustment • Lathe • Treadles • Cloth roll- takeup A handloom is a simple machine used for weaving.In a wooden vertical-shaft looms, the heddles are fixed in place in the shaft. The warp threads pass alternately through a heddle, and through a space between the heddles (the shed), so that raising the shaft raises half the threads (those passing through the heddles), and lowering the shaft lowers the same threads—the threads passing through the spaces between the heddles remain in place. Flying Shuttle Hand weavers could only weave a cloth as wide as their armspan. If cloth needed to be wider, two people would do the task (often this would be an adult with a child). John Kay (1704–1779) patented the Flying Shuttle in 1733. The weaver held a picking stick that was attached by cords to a device at both ends of the shed. With a flick of the wrist, one cord was pulled and the shuttle was propelled through the shed to the other end with considerable force, speed and efficiency. A flick in the opposite direction and the shuttle was propelled back. A single weaver had control of this motion but the flying shuttle could weave much wider fabric than an arms length at much greater speeds than had been achieved with the hand thrown shuttle. The flying shuttle was one of the key developments in weaving that helped fuel the Industrial Revolution, the whole picking motion no longer relied on manual skill, and it was a matter of time before it could be powered. Haute-lisse and basse-lisse looms Looms used for weaving traditional tapestry are classified as haute-lisse looms, where the warp is suspended vertically between two rolls, and the basse-lisse looms, where the warp extends horizontally between the rolls. Traditional looms Several other types of hand looms exist including the simple frame loom, pit loom, free-standing loom and the pegged loom. Each of these can be constructed, and provide work and income in developing societies.[7] Power looms Loom 153 Edmund Cartwright built and patented a power loom in 1785, and it was this that was adopted by the nascent cotton industry in England. The silk loom made by Jacques Vaucanson in 1745 operated on the same principles but wasn't developed further. The invention of the flying shuttle by John Kay was critical to the development of a commercially successful power loom.[8] Cartwright's loom was impractical but the ideas were developed by numerous inventors in the Manchester area in England, where by 1818 there were 32 factories containing 5732 looms.[9] A Picanol rapier loom Horrocks loom was viable but it was the Roberts Loom in 1830[10] that marked the turning point. Before this time hand looms had outnumbered power looms. Incremental changes to the three motions continued to be made. The problems of sizing, stop-motions, consistent take-up and a temple to maintain the width remained. In 1841, Kenworthy and Bullough produced the Lancashire Loom[11] which was self-acting or semi-automatic. This enables a 15-year-old spinner to run six looms at the same time. Incrementally, the Dickinson Loom, and then the Keighley born inventor Northrop working for the Draper Corporation in Hopedale produced the fully automatic Northrop Loom which recharged the shuttle when the pirn was empty. The Draper E and X model became the leading products from 1909 until they were challenged by the different characteristics of synthetic fibres such as rayon.[12] From 1942 the faster and more efficient shuttleless Sulzer looms and the rapier looms were introduced.[13] Modern industrial looms can weave at 2000 weft insertions per minute.[14] Today, advances in technology have produced a variety of looms designed to maximize production for specific types of material. The most common of these are air-jet looms (e.g. “JAT710”) and water-jet looms. Jacquard looms The Jacquard loom is a mechanical loom, invented by Joseph Marie Jacquard in 1801, that simplifies the process of manufacturing textiles with complex patterns such as brocade, damask and matelasse.[15][16] The loom is controlled by punched cards with punched holes, each row of which corresponds to one row of the design. Multiple rows of holes are punched on each card and the many cards that compose the design of the textile are strung together in order. It is based on earlier inventions by the Frenchmen Basile Bouchon (1725), Jean Baptiste Falcon (1728) and Jacques Vaucanson (1740)[17] To call it a loom is a misnomer, a Jacquard head could be attached to a power loom or a hand loom, the head controlled which warp thread was raised during shedding. Multiple shuttles could be used to control the colour of the weft during picking. Loom 154 Hand operated Jacquard looms in the Textile Department of the Strzemiński Academy of Fine Arts in Lodz, Poland. Battening on a jacquard loom in Lodz. Following the pattern, holes are punched in the appropriate places on a jacquard card. Dobby looms A Dobby Loom is a type of floor loom that controls the whole warp threads using a dobby head. Dobby is a corruption of "draw boy" which refers to the weaver's helpers who used to control the warp thread by pulling on draw threads. A dobby loom is an alternative to a treadle loom, where multiple heddles (shafts) were controlled by foot treadles- one for each heddle. The Jacquard loom, which was invented earlier applies the same idea in a different way. Gallery Hand loom at Hjerl Hede, Denmark, showing grayish warp threads (back) and cloth woven with red filling yarn (front) A foot-treadle operated Hattersley & Sons, Domestic Loom, built under license in 1893, in Keighley, Yorkshire. Arjun Swansi at his loom Loom 155 Patents • U.S. Patent 0000169 [18] – Loom References [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] Etymology Online (http:/ / www. etymonline. com/ index. php?term=loom) Websters 1913 (http:/ / machaut. uchicago. edu/ ?resource=Webster's& word=loom& use1913=on) p=868 Collier 1970, p. 104 Barber & 1991 pp.93–96 Crowfoot 1936, p. 36 Burnham 1980, p. 48 Handlooms: Practical guide to constructing viable handlooms, Joan Koster,1978 (http:/ / www. cd3wd. com/ cd3wd_40/ vita/ handloom/ en/ handloom. htm) [8] Marsden 1892, p. 57 [9] Guest, Richard (1823). "The Compendious History of Cotton-Manufacture" (http:/ / www. spinningtheweb. org. uk/ a_results. php?x=7& y=2& QueryName=KeyWord& KeyWords=Compendious+ History). pp. 46. . Retrieved Feb 2009. [10] Marsden 1892, p. 76 [11] Marsden 1892, p. 94 [12] Mass 1990 [13] Collier 1970, p. 111 [14] S. Rajagopalan, S.S.M. College of Engineering, Komarapalayam, Pdexcil.org (http:/ / www. pdexcil. org/ news/ 40N1002/ advances. htm) [15] [16] [17] [18] Eric Hobsbawm, "The Age of Revolution", (London 1962; repr. 2008), p.45. "Fabric Glossary" (http:/ / www. christinalynn. com/ fabric-glossary. shtml). . Retrieved 2008-11-21. C. Razy p.120 (1913) http:/ / www. google. com/ patents?vid=169 Bibliography • Barber, E. J. W. (1991). Prehistoric Textiles. Princeton University Press. ISBN 0-691-00224-X. • Burnham, Dorothy K. (1980). Warp and Weft: A Textile Terminology. Royal Ontario Museum. ISBN 0-88854-256-9. • Collier, Ann M (1970). A Handbook of Textiles. Pergamon Press. pp. 258. ISBN 0-08-018057-4, 0 08 018056 6. • Crowfoot, Grace (1936/1937). "Of the Warp-Weighted Loom". The Annual of the British School at Athens 37: 36–47. • Marsden, Richard (1895). Cotton Weaving: Its Development, Principles, and Practice (http://www.cs.arizona. edu/patterns/weaving/books.html). George Bell & Sons. pp. 584. Retrieved Feb 2009. • Mass, William (1990). "The Decline of a Technology Leader:Capabilty, strategy and shuttleless Weaving" (http:/ /www.h-net.org/~business/bhcweb/publications/BEHprint/v019/p0234-p0244.pdf). Business and Economic History. ISSN 089-6825. • Ventura, Carol (2003). Maya Hair Sashes Backstrap Woven in Jacaltenango, Guatemala, Cintas Mayas tejidas con el telar de cintura en Jacaltenango, Guatemala. Carol Ventura. ISBN 0-9721253-1-0. Loom External links • Handloom construction: Practical guide to constructing viable handlooms, Joan Koster,1978 (http://www. cd3wd.com/cd3wd_40/vita/handloom/en/handloom.htm) • Loom demonstration video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=flUCPh9AsS0) • "Caring for your loom" article (http://www.woolfestival.com/articles/loomcare.htm) • "The Art and History of Weaving" (http://www.faculty.de.gcsu.edu/~dvess/ids/fap/weav.html) • The Medieval Technology Pages: "The Horizontal Loom" (http://scholar.chem.nyu.edu/tekpages/loom.html) Donegal Carpets Donegal Carpets is a trademark brand of handmade wool carpets produced in Killybegs, a town in County Donegal, Ireland. Donegal Carpets can be found in Dublin Castle, the Royal Pavilion of Brighton, Eltham Palace, and the U.S. White House as well as many other parts of the world. History Although making carpets in Donegal is an ancient tradition, the company Donegal Carpets is over 100 years old and was founded in 1898 by Scottish textile manufacturer Alexander Morton. Before establishing Donegal Carpets, Morton had first established a carpet crafting house on the west coast of Ireland and put to practice the techniques of the Donegal people who had been working with wool for generations. The Mortons sold the company to a consortium called Donegal Carpets Ltd. in 1957. There were four manufacturing houses at one time in County Donegal but three of the four facilities closed during The Great Depression and in 1987 the last facility closed. Local Donegal people petitioned the government to help re-open them in 1997 and in 1999 they were making carpets again for places such as Áras an Uachtaráin, Dublin Castle and the University of Notre Dame. External links • Donegal Carpets home page [1] • Home page for USA Donegal Carpets [2] • Killybegs Maritime and Heritage center located at the Donegal carpets building [3] References [1] http:/ / www. donegalcarpets. eu [2] http:/ / www. donegalcarpets. com [3] http:/ / www. visitkillybegs. com/ carpets. php 156 Áras an Uachtaráin 157 Áras an Uachtaráin Áras an Uachtaráin North Rear facade General information Town or city Phoenix Park, Dublin Country Ireland Construction started 1780 Design and construction Architect Nathaniel Clements Áras an Uachtaráin[1] (Irish pronunciation: [ˈɑːrəs ən ˈuəxt̪ərɑːnʲ]), formerly the Viceregal Lodge, is the official residence of the President of Ireland. It is located in the Phoenix Park on the northside of Dublin. Origins The original house was designed by park ranger and amateur architect, Nathaniel Clements in the mid eighteenth century. It was bought by the administration of the British Lord Lieutenant of Ireland to become his summer residence in the 1780s. His official residence was in the Viceregal Apartments in Dublin Castle. The house in the park later became the Viceregal Lodge, the "out of season" residence of the Lord Lieutenant (also known as the Viceroy), where he lived for most of the year from the 1820s onwards. During the Social Season (January to St. Patrick's Day in March) he lived in state in Dublin Castle. Phoenix Park once contained three official state residences. The Viceregal Lodge, the Chief Secretary's Lodge and the Under Secretary's Lodge. The Chief Secretary's Lodge, now called Deerfield, is the residence of the United States Ambassador to Ireland. The Under Secretary's Lodge, now demolished, served for many years as the Apostolic Nunciature. Some historians have claimed that the garden front portico of Áras an Uachtaráin (which can be seen by the public from the main road through the Phoenix Park) was used as a model by Irish architect James Hoban, who designed the White House in Washington, D.C. However the porticoes were not part of Hoban's original design and were in fact a later addition by Benjamin Henry Latrobe. Áras an Uachtaráin 158 Phoenix Park Murders In 1882, its grounds became the location for two famous murders. The Chief Secretary for Ireland (the British Cabinet minister with responsibility for Irish affairs), Lord Frederick Cavendish, and his Undersecretary (chief civil servant), Thomas Henry Burke, were stabbed to death with surgical knives while walking back to the residence from Dublin Castle. A small insurgent group called the Invincibles was responsible for the deed. The Lord Lieutenant, the 5th Earl Spencer, heard the victims' screams from a window in the ground floor drawing room. Residence of the Governor-General of the Irish Free State In 1911, the house underwent a large extension for the visit of King George V and Queen Mary. With the creation of the Irish Free State in 1922, the office of Lord Lieutenant was abolished. The new state planned to place the new representative of the Crown, Governor-General Tim Healy in a new, smaller residence, but because of death threats from the anti-treaty IRA, he was installed in the Viceregal Lodge temporarily. It remained the residence of the Governor-General of the Irish Free State until 1932, when the new Governor-General, Domhnall Ua Buachalla, was installed in a specially hired private mansion in the southside of Dublin. President McAleese greets US President Obama and First Lady Michelle Obama at Áras an Uachtaráin on 23 May 2011. Residence of the President of Ireland The house was left empty for some years, until the office of President of Ireland was created in 1937. In 1938, the first President, Douglas Hyde lived there temporarily while plans were made to build a new presidential palace on the grounds. The outbreak of World War II saved the building, which had been renamed Áras an Uachtaráin (meaning house of the president in Irish), from demolition, as plans for its demolition and the design of a new residence were put on hold. By 1945 it had become too closely identified with the presidency of Ireland to be demolished, though its poor condition meant that extensive demolition and rebuilding of parts of the building were necessary, notably the kitchens, servants' quarters and chapel. Since then, further restoration work has been carried out from time to time. The first President, Douglas Hyde lived in the residential quarters on the first floor of the main building. Later presidents moved to the new residential wing attached to the main house that had been built on for the visit of King George V in 1911. However, in 1990 Mary Robinson moved back to the older main building. Her successor, Mary McAleese lived in the 1911 wing. Though Áras an Uachtaráin is possibly not as palatial as other European royal and presidential palaces, with only a handful of state rooms (the state drawing room, large and small dining rooms, the The main gate to Áras an Uachtaráin is located President's Office and Library, a large ballroom and a presidential adjacent to the Phoenix Monument, at the centre of the park corridor lined with the busts of past presidents (Francini Corridor), and some fine eighteenth and nineteenth century bedrooms above, all in the main building), it is a relatively comfortable state residence. All Taoisigh as well as Government Ministers receive their seal of office from the President at Áras an Uachtaráin as do Judges, the Attorney General, the Comptroller and Auditor General, and senior commissioned officers of the Defence Forces. It is also the venue for the meetings of the Presidential Commission and the Council of State. Áras an Uachtaráin Áras an Uachtaráin also houses the headquarters of the Garda Mounted Unit. The Office of Public Works completely furnishes the private quarters of Áras an Uachtaráin for the presidential family.[2] Visitors Various visiting British monarchs stayed at the Viceregal Lodge, notably Queen Victoria and George V. American presidents hosted here include Presidents John F. Kennedy, Richard Nixon, Ronald Reagan, Bill Clinton and Barack Obama all of Irish descent. Other famous visitors to the Áras an Uachtaráin have been Princess Grace of Monaco and her husband, Prince Rainier III; King Baudouin of the Belgians; King Juan Carlos and Queen Sophia; Pope John Paul II; Prince Charles, and Prince Philip. On 17 May 2011, Elizabeth II became the first British monarch to visit the Áras on the occasion of her state visit to Ireland.[3] She was welcomed by President McAleese, inspected a Guard of Honour, signed the visitors book and planted an Irish Oak sapling. Guests do not normally stay at Áras an Uachtaráin. Although it has ninety-two rooms, many of these are used for storage of presidential files, for household staff and official staff, including military aides-de-camp, a Secretary to the President (somewhat equivalent to Chief of Staff in the White House, except it is a permanent civil service position) and a press office. In 2001, the Irish state opened a guest residence nearby in Farmleigh, a former Guinness family mansion. On 1 May 2004, during Ireland's six-month presidency of the European Union, Áras an Uachtarain was the Venue for the European Day of Welcomes (Accession Day) in which ten new members joined the EU. All 25 heads of government attended the flag raising ceremony in the gardens of the palace. A large security operation involving the Gardaí and the Irish Defence Forces closed off the Áras and the Phoenix Park. Áras an Uachtaráin is open for free tours every Saturday. Footnotes [1] Áras an Uachtaráin translates simply to "Residence of the President", and is sometimes written "Árus an Uachtaráin". [2] "Mammoth task of moving out done in military style" (http:/ / www. independent. ie/ opinion/ analysis/ mammoth-task-of-moving-out-done-in-military-style-2930914. html). Irish Independent. 10 November 2011. . Retrieved 10 November 2011. [3] "Queen lays wreath on Republic of Ireland state visit" (http:/ / www. bbc. co. uk/ news/ world-europe-13425722). BBC News. 17 May 2011. . Retrieved 17 May 2011. External links • Áras an Uachtaráin website (http://www.president.ie/) • Virtual tour of the state rooms (http://www.president.ie/index.php?section=39&lang=eng) • Visiting information at Heritage Ireland (http://www.heritageireland.ie/en/Dublin/ PhoenixParkVisitorCentre-AshtownCastle/) 159 University of Notre Dame 160 University of Notre Dame University of Notre Dame du Lac Seal of the University of Notre Dame Latin: Universitas Dominae Nostrae a Lacu Motto Vita, Dulcedo, Spes Motto in English Life, Sweetness, Hope (in reference to the Blessed Virgin Mary) Established 1842 Type Private, Coeducational Religious affiliation Congregation of Holy Cross (Catholic Church) Endowment US$6.8 billion President Father John I. Jenkins, C.S.C. Provost Dr. Tom Burish Academic staff 1,241 Students 11,733 Undergraduates 8,371 Postgraduates 3,362 Location Notre Dame, Indiana, US 41°42′11″N 86°14′20″W Campus Suburban: 1250 acres (unknown operator: u'strong' km2) Colors Gold and blue Athletics NCAA Division I Sports 26 teams Nickname Fighting Irish Mascot Leprechaun Affiliations Independent, Big East Conference, CCHA Website nd.edu [1] [2] [3][4] [5] The University of Notre Dame du Lac (or simply Notre Dame /ˌnoʊtərˈdeɪm/ NOH-tər-DAYM) is a Catholic research university located in Notre Dame, an unincorporated community north of the city of South Bend, in St. Joseph County, Indiana, United States. The name of the university, "Notre Dame," is French meaning "Our Lady," a Catholic honorific salutation in reference to the Virgin Mary, the patron saint of the university. It was founded by Father Edward Sorin, CSC, who was also the school's first president. It was established as an all-male institution on November 26, 1842, on land donated by the Bishop of Vincennes, Indiana. The university first enrolled women undergraduates in 1972. As of 2012 about 47 percent of the student body was female.[6] Due to Notre Dame's Catholic character many Holy Cross priests serve the school (most notably the president of the university), its explicit commitment to the Christian faith, numerous ministries funded by the school, and the architecture around campus, especially the Main Building's gold dome topped by a golden statue of St. Mary, a University of Notre Dame replica of the Lourdes grotto, the 134-foot-tall (unknown operator: u'strong' m) mosaic of Christ on the side of the Hesburgh Library (entitled "The Word of Life," but often referred to as 'Touchdown Jesus' because of his upraised arms and proximity to the stadium), and the ornate Basilica of the Sacred Heart, along with numerous chapels, statuary and religious iconography. The university today is organized into five colleges and one professional school, the oldest of which, the College of Arts and Letters, began awarding degrees in 1849. The undergraduate program was ranked 19th among national universities by U.S. News & World Report for 2010–2011.[7] Notre Dame has a comprehensive graduate program with 32 master's and 25 doctoral degree programs.[8][9] Additionally, the university's library system is one of the 100 largest in the United States. Over 80% of the university's 8,000 undergraduates live on campus in one of 29 single-sex residence halls, each of which fields teams for more than a dozen intramural sports. Notre Dame's approximately 120,000 alumni are located around the world.[10] Outside academia, Notre Dame is best known for its sports programs, especially its football team. The teams are members of the NCAA Division I, and are known collectively as the Fighting Irish, a name it adopted in the 1920s. The football team, an Independent, has accumulated eleven consensus national championships, seven Heisman Trophy winners, and sixty-two members in the College Football Hall of Fame. Other ND teams, chiefly in the Big East Conference, have accumulated 16 national championships. History Foundations In 1842 the Bishop of Vincennes, Célestine Guynemer de la Hailandière, offered land to Father Edward Sorin of the Congregation of Holy Cross, on the condition that he build a college in two years.[11] Sorin arrived on the site with eight Holy Cross brothers on November 26, 1842, and began the school using Father Stephen Badin's old log chapel. They immediately acquired two students and set about building additions to the campus. Notre Dame began as a primary and secondary school, but soon received its official college charter from the Indiana General Assembly on January 15, 1844.[12] Under the charter the school is officially named the University of Notre Dame du Lac (University of Our Lady of the Lake).[13] Although the university was originally only for male students, the female-only Saint Mary's College was founded by the Sisters of the Holy Cross near Notre Dame in 1844.[14] Early history More students attended the college; the first degrees were awarded in 1849.[15] The university was expanded with new buildings to accommodate more students and faculty.[12] With each new president, new academic programs were offered and new buildings built to accommodate them. The original Main Building built by Sorin just after he arrived was replaced by a larger "Main Building" in 1865, which housed the university's administration, classrooms, and dormitories. Beginning in 1873, a library collection was started by Father Lemonnier. By 1879 it had grown to ten thousand volumes that were housed in the Main Building. This Main Building, and the library collection, was destroyed by a fire in April 1879, and rebuilt before the next school year.[16] The library collection was also rebuilt and stayed housed in the new Main Building for years afterwards.[17] Around the time of the fire, a Music Hall was opened. Eventually becoming known as Washington Hall, it hosted plays and musical acts put on by the school.[18] 161 University of Notre Dame By 1880, a science program was established at the university, and a Science Hall was built in 1883. The hall housed multiple classrooms and science labs needed for early research at the university.[19] By 1890, individual residence halls were built to A view of the University's historic center, "God Quad" house the increasing number of students.[20] William J. Hoynes (1846–1919) was dean of the law school 1883-1919, and when its new building was opened shortly after his death it was renamed in his honor.[21] John Zahm C.S.C. (1851–1921) became the Holy Cross Provincial for the United States (1896–1906), with overall supervision of the university, He tried to transform Notre Dame into a great university, erecting buildings and added to the campus art gallery and library, and amassing what became a famous Dante collection. His term was not renewed because of fears he had expanded Notre Dame too quickly and had run the Holy Cross order into serious debt.[21] Hesburgh Era: 1952-1987 Theodore Hesburgh, C.S.C., (born 1917) served as president for 35 years (1952–87) of dramatic transformations. In that time the annual operating budget rose by a factor of 18 from $9.7 million to $176.6 million, and the endowment by a factor of 40 from $9 million to $350 million, and research funding by a factor of 20 from $735,000 to $15 million. Enrollment nearly doubled from 4,979 to 9,600, faculty more than doubled 389 to 950, and degrees awarded annually doubled from 1,212 to 2,500.[22] Hesburgh is also credited with transforming the face of Notre Dame by making it a coeducational institution. In the mid-1960s Notre Dame and Saint Mary's College developed a co-exchange program whereby several hundred students took classes not offered at their home institution, an arrangement that added undergraduate women to a campus that already had a few women in the graduate schools. Nearly a third of accepted Notre Dame students chose not to enroll because of its single-sex status, and a 1968 poll indicated that nearly three-fourths of all Notre Dame students considered transferring to a coeducational school. After extensive debate, merging with St. Mary's was rejected, primarily because of the differential in faculty qualifications and pay scales. "In American college education," explained Rev. Charles E. Sheedy, C.S.C., Notre Dame's Dean of Arts and Letters, "certain features formerly considered advantageous and enviable are now seen as anachronistic and out of place.... In this environment of diversity, the integration of the sexes is a normal and expected aspect, replacing separatism." Thomas Blantz, C.S.C., Notre Dame's Vice President of Student Affairs, added that coeducation "opened up a whole other pool of very bright students."[[23] Two of the male residence halls were converted for the newly admitted female students that first year,[24][25] while two others were converted for the next school year.[26][27] The first female student, a transfer from St. Mary's College, graduated in 1972 with a bachelor's degree in marketing.[28] Malloy Era: 1987-2005 In 18 years under President Edward Malloy, C.S.C., (1987–2005), there was a rapid growth in the school's reputation, faculty, and resources. He increased the faculty by more than 500 professors; the academic quality of the student body has improved dramatically, the average SAT score rose from 1240 to 1360; the number of minority students more than doubled; the endowment grew from $350 million to more than $3 billion; the annual operating budget rose from $177 million to more than $650 million; and annual research funding improved from $15 million to more than $70 million. Notre Dame’s most recent capital campaign raised $1.1 billion, far exceeding its goal of $767 million, and is the largest in the history of Catholic higher education.[29] 162 University of Notre Dame 163 Jenkins Era: 2005-present Currently Notre Dame is led by John I. Jenkins, C.S.C., the 17th president of the university.[30] Jenkins took over the position from Edward "Monk" Malloy, CSC, on July 1, 2005.[31] In his inaugural address, Jenkins described his goals of making the university a leader in research that recognizes ethics and building the connection between faith and studies.[32] Catholic character The University was founded by a group of Catholic missionary priests and brothers from France, members of the Congregation of Holy Cross (in Latin, Congregatio a Sancta Cruce; more commonly referred to as "CSC," which is also the initials placed after all members' names). The land where they founded the school was donated to them by the Bishop of Vincennes, Indiana. They saw a large part of their early mission to be caring for and evangelizing the local Potawatomi tribes. Upon arrival on the lake shore in the cold of winter, they dedicated their new school and all their endeavors to the Virgin Mary under the name Notre Dame du Lac, which is French for Our Lady of the Lake. The Golden Dome of the Main Building with the Basilica of the Sacred Heart in the foreground. This Catholic mission of the Congregation, its schools at the site, and their successors has shaped the campus and the university. While religious affiliation is not a criterion for admission, approximately 80% of undergraduates enrolled self-identify as Catholic. There are many Catholic clubs, organizations, and ministries on campus. There is a large campus ministry program and many volunteer opportunities. There is no compulsory participation in any religious liturgies. Students and clubs of other religions and Christian denominations are welcomed and supported. Nearly every residence hall has a priest in residence. Every residence hall (and many academic buildings) contains a chapel, where Sunday and daily masses are celebrated during the school year. One dorm is named after a saint (Saint Edward). Sunday and daily masses as well as daily confessions are held in the Basilica of the Sacred Heart in the center of campus. Architecturally, the school has a Catholic character. Atop the Main Building's gold dome is a golden statue of the Virgin Mary. Immediately in front of the Main Building and facing it, is a copper statue of Christ with arms upraised with the legend "Venite Ad Me Omnes" ("Come to me, all you"; Matthew 11:28a). Next to the Main Building is the Basilica of the Sacred Heart. Immediately behind the basilica is the Grotto, a Marian place of prayer and reflection. It is a replica of the grotto at Lourdes, France where Mary is reputed to have appeared to St. Bernadette in 1858. At the end of the main drive (and in a direct line that connects through 3 statues and the Gold Dome), is a simple, modern stone statue of Mary. Behind her approximately 1000 feet (unknown operator: u'strong' m) is a statue of the founder of the school, Edward Sorin. University of Notre Dame 164 The 14-story Hesburgh Library sports a 134-foot-tall (unknown operator: u'strong' m) stone mosaic on its southern face of Christ surrounded by the Apostles and notable scholarly saints and doctors of the Church. This mosaic is entitled "The Word of Life," but is affectionately referred to as 'Touchdown Jesus' because of Christ's upraised arms and the visibility of the mosaic from the stadium through the uprights of the northern endzone. Next to the library is Ivan Meštrović's large bronze statue of Moses with finger upraised (affectionately known as 'Firstdown Moses'). The interior of the Basilica of the Sacred Heart. The university is the major seat of the Congregation of Holy Cross (albeit not its official headquarters, which are in Rome). Its main seminary, Moreau Seminary, is located on the campus across St. Joseph lake from the Main Building. Old College, the oldest building on campus and located near the shore of St. Mary lake, houses undergraduate seminarians. Retired priests and brothers reside in Fatima House (a former retreat center), Holy Cross House, as well as Columba Hall near the Grotto. Until the 1970s, many of the support staff were nuns and monks. The university supports many Church-related organizations and ministries. The university has a highly regarded theology program, both undergraduate and graduate, with many scholars, including Lawrence Cunningham, John Cavadini, and Gary Anderson. University by-laws require that the President of the University be a priest of the United States Province of the Congregation of Holy Cross. Until 1967, when governance was transferred to a lay board of trustees, the university was entirely governed by the leadership of the Holy Cross order. Although the faculty was well over 85% Catholic before 1970, search practices have broadened. In recent years about half the new faculty hires have been Catholics, and Catholics now comprise 52% of the faculty.[33] However, in a policy statement the University declares that "the Catholic identity of the University depends upon ... the continuing presence of a predominant number of Catholic intellectuals" on the faculty. As the provost has explained, the aim is "to have a majority of faculty who are Catholic, who understand the nature of the religion, who can be living role models, who can talk with students about issues outside the classroom and can infuse values into what they do."[34] In 2009 the University was criticized by many Catholic bishops for conferring an honorary degree on President Barack Obama. President Obama's promotion of abortion access and types of embryonic stem cell research that result in the destruction of human embryos conflicts with Catholic doctrine on the sanctity of life[35][36][37][38]. Governance Since 1967 Notre Dame has been governed by a Board of Trustees, and not directly by the leadership of Holy Cross. The university is governed by two groups, the Board of Fellows and the Board of Trustees.[39] The Fellows of the University are a group of six Holy Cross religious and six lay members who have final say over the operation of the university. The fellows vote on potential trustees and sign off on all major decisions by that body. The trustees select the president from the United States Province of the Congregation of Holy Cross. In addition to the president, these groups help to maintain the bylaws and elect other officers of the university.[40] Finally, the provost of the university, University of Notre Dame 165 as of 2012 Thomas Burish, works under the president to oversee many of the academic activities and functions of the university.[41] Campus Notre Dame's campus is located in Notre Dame, Indiana, an unincorporated community in north Indiana, just north of South Bend and four miles (6 km) from the Michigan state line.[42] Development of the campus began in the spring of 1843 when Father Sorin and some of his congregation built the "Old College," a building used for dormitories, a bakery, and a classroom. A year later, after an architect arrived, a small "Main Building" was built allowing for the launch of the college.[43] Today the campus lies on 1250 acres (unknown operator: u'strong' km2) just south of the Indiana Toll Road and includes 138 buildings located on quads throughout the campus.[44] A number of the buildings that Father Sorin built still stand on the campus, while others have been replaced. The Old College building has become one of two seminaries on campus run by the Congregation of Holy Cross.[45] The current Basilica of the Sacred Heart is located on the spot of Sorin's original church, which became too small for the growing college and the Main Building, after a fire destroyed parts of it, has become home to Notre Dame's administration. There are two lakes located on campus, and near the lakes is the Grotto of Our Lady of Lourdes, which was built in 1896 as a replica of the original in Lourdes, France.[46] Historic Washington Hall on "God Quad." Environmental sustainability The University of Notre Dame has made being a sustainability leader an integral part of their mission, creating the Office of Sustainability in 2008 to achieve a number of goals in the areas of power generation, design and construction, waste reduction, procurement, food services, transportation, and water.[47] As of 2012 four building construction projects were pursuing LEED Certified status and three were pursuing LEED Silver.[48] Notre Dame’s dining services sources 40% of its food locally and offers sustainably-caught seafood as well as many organic, fair-trade, and vegan options.[49] On the Sustainable Endowments Institute’s College Sustainability Report Card 2010, University of Notre Dame received a "B" grade.[50] New buildings The university continues to expand and add new buildings each year. Since 2004, many buildings have been built—the most prominent being the DeBartolo Performing Arts Center,[51] the Guglielmino Complex,[52] and the Jordan Hall of Science.[53] Additionally, a new male residence hall, Duncan Hall, began construction on March 8, 2007,[54] and began accepting residents for the Fall 2008 semester. Ryan Hall has recently finished construction and began housing undergraduate women in the fall of 2009. A new engineering building, Stinson-Remick Hall, a new combination Center for Social Concerns/Institute for Church Life building, Geddes Hall, and a law school addition have recently been completed.[55] Additionally the new hockey arena opened in the fall of 2011. University of Notre Dame LaFortune Student Center The LaFortune Student Center, commonly known as "LaFortune" or "LaFun," is a 4-story building of 83,000 square feet[56] that provides the Notre Dame community with a meeting place for social, recreational, cultural, and educational activities. The building was constructed in 1883 as a science building but was converted to a student center during the 1950s.[57] LaFortune employs 35 part-time student staff, 29 full-time non-student staff, and has an annual budget of $1.2 million.[56] Many businesses, services, and Divisions of Student affairs[57] are found within. The building also houses restaurants from national restaurant chains.[58] The building is named for Joseph LaFortune, an oil executive from Tulsa, Oklahoma. Joseph LaFortune was the father of Tulsa former mayor Robert J. LaFortune and the grandfather of former Tulsa mayor Bill LaFortune. Legends of Notre Dame Legends of Notre Dame (commonly referred to as Legends) is a music venue, public house, and restaurant located on the campus of the University of Notre Dame, just 100 yards south of Notre Dame Stadium. The former Alumni Senior Club[59] opened its doors the first weekend in September 2003[60] after a $3.5 million renovation and transformed into the all-ages student hang-out that currently exists. Legends is made up of two parts: The Restaurant and Alehouse and the nightclub. London Centre The university has had a presence in London, England since 1968. Since 1998, its London Centre has been based in the former United University Club at 1, Suffolk Street in Trafalgar Square. The Center enables the Colleges of Arts & Letters, Business Administration, Science, Engineering and the Law School to develop their own programs in London, as well as hosting conferences and symposia.[61] Academics As of fall 2006, Notre Dame had 11,603 students and employed 1241 full-time faculty members and another 166 part-time members to give a student/faculty ratio of 13:1.[1] Named by Newsweek as one of the "25 New Ivies,"[62] it is also an Oak Ridge Associated University.[63] Colleges The College of Arts and Letters was established as the university's first college in 1842 with the first degrees given in 1849.[64] The university's first academic curriculum was modeled after the Jesuit Ratio Studiorum from Saint Louis University.[65] Today the college, housed in O'Shaughnessy Hall,[66] includes 20 departments in the areas of fine arts, humanities, and social sciences, and awards Bachelor of Arts (B.A.) degrees in 33 majors, making it the largest of the university's colleges. There are around 2,500 undergraduates and 750 graduates enrolled in the college.[67] The College of Science was established at the university in 1865 by president Father Patrick Dillon. Dillon's scientific courses were six years of work, including higher-level mathematics courses.[68] Today the college, housed in the newly-built Jordan Hall of Science,[69] 166 University of Notre Dame includes over 1,200 undergraduates in six departments of study – biology, chemistry, mathematics, physics, pre-professional studies, and applied and computational mathematics and statistics (ACMS) – each awarding Bachelor of Science (B.S.) degrees.[70] According to university statistics, its science pre-professional program has one of the highest acceptance rates to medical school of any university in the United States.[71] The School of Architecture was established in 1899,[72] although degrees in architecture were first awarded by the university in 1898.[73] Today The Hesburgh Library, which is the center of the campus' intellectual life. the school, housed in Bond Hall,[74] offers a five-year undergraduate program leading to the Bachelor of Architecture degree. One year of study is completed in Rome by all students enrolled in the school.[75] The College of Engineering was established in 1920,[76] however, early courses in civil and mechanical engineering were a part of the College of Science since the 1870s.[77] Today the college, housed in the Fitzpatrick, Cushing, and Stinson-Remick Halls of Engineering,[78] includes five departments of study – aerospace and mechanical engineering, chemical and biomolecular engineering, civil engineering and geological sciences, computer science and engineering, and electrical engineering – with eight B.S. degrees offered. Additionally, the college offers five-year dual degree programs with the Colleges of Arts and Letters and of Business awarding additional B.A. and Master of Business Administration (MBA) degrees, respectively.[79] The Mendoza College of Business was established by Father John Francis O'Hara in 1921, although a foreign commerce program was launched in 1917.[80] Today the college offers degrees in accountancy, finance, management, and marketing and enrolls over 1,600 students.[81] In the 2010 Bloomberg/Businessweek Undergraduate Business School Rankings, The Mendoza College of Business was ranked as the top overall school. All of Notre Dame's undergraduate students are a part of one of the five undergraduate colleges at the school or are in the First Year of Studies program. The First Year of Studies program was established in 1962 to guide incoming freshmen in their first year at the school before they have declared a major. Each student is given an academic advisor from the program who helps them to choose classes that give them exposure to any major in which they are interested.[82] The program also includes a Learning Resource Center which provides time management, collaborative learning, and subject tutoring.[83] This program has been recognized previously, by U.S. News & World Report, as outstanding.[84] Graduate and professional schools The university first offered graduate degrees, in the form of a Master of Arts (MA), in the 1854–1855 academic year. The program expanded to include Master of Laws (LL.M.) and Master of Civil Engineering in its early stages of growth, before a formal graduate school education was developed with a thesis not required to receive the degrees. This changed in 1924 with formal requirements developed for graduate degrees, including offering Doctorate (PhD) degrees.[85] 167 University of Notre Dame Today each of the five colleges offer graduate education. Most of the departments from the College of Arts and Letters offer PhD programs, while a professional Master of Divinity (M.Div.) program also exists. All of the departments in the College of Science offer PhD programs, except for the Department of Pre-Professional Studies. The School of Architecture offers a Master of Architecture, while each of the departments of the College of Engineering offer PhD programs. The College of Business offers multiple professional programs including MBA and Master of Science in The exterior of the Notre Dame Law School Accountancy programs. It also operates facilities in [86] Chicago and Cincinnati for its executive MBA program. Additionally, the Alliance for Catholic Education program[87] offers a Master of Education program where students study at the university during the summer and teach in Catholic elementary schools, middle schools, and high schools across the Southern United States for two school years.[88] In addition to the programs offered by each of the colleges, the Notre Dame Law School offers a professional program for students. Established in 1869, Notre Dame was the first Catholic university in the United States to have a law program.[89] Today the program has consistently ranked among the top law schools in the nation according to US News and World Report.[90] The Law School grants the professional Juris Doctor degree as well as the graduate LL.M. and Doctor of Juridical Science degrees.[86] Currently, the law school is experiencing an expansion that will double the size of its learning space and is expected to be in operation for the Spring 2009 semester. It is the only accredited American law school to offer a full year of study abroad in London. The Joan B. Kroc Institute for International Peace Studies at the University of Notre Dame is dedicated to research, education and outreach on the causes of violent conflict and the conditions for sustainable peace. It offers PhD, Master's, and undergraduate degrees in peace studies. It was founded in 1986 through the donations of Joan B. Kroc, the widow of McDonald's owner Ray Kroc. The institute was inspired by the vision of Rev. Theodore M. Hesburgh CSC, President Emeritus of the University of Notre Dame. The institute has contributed to international policy discussions about peace building practices.[91] Though Notre Dame does not have a medical school of its own, it hosts a regional campus of the Indiana University School of Medicine,[92] where Indiana University medical students may spend the first two years of their medical education before transferring to the main medical campus at IUPUI. 168 University of Notre Dame 169 Libraries The library system of the university is divided between the main library and each of the colleges and schools. The main building is the fourteen-story Theodore M. Hesburgh Library, completed in 1963, which is the third building to house the main collection of books.[93] The front of the library is adorned with the Word of Life mural designed by artist Millard Sheets. This mural is popularly known as "Touchdown Jesus" because of its proximity to Notre Dame Stadium and Jesus' arms appearing to make the signal for a touchdown.[94][95] Another piece of artwork associated The interior of the Kresge Law Library at the Notre Dame Law with the Library is the statue of Moses by Joseph School Turkalj. This statue, popularly known as "First Down Moses" because of the manner in which his right arm is outstretched with his right index finger in the air, is at a side entrance to the building. The library system also includes branch libraries for Architecture, Chemistry & Physics, Engineering, Law, the Life Sciences, and Mathematics as well as information centers in the Mendoza College of Business, the Kellogg Institute for International Studies, the Joan B. Kroc Institute for International Peace Studies, and a slide library in O'Shaughnessy Hall.[96] The library system holds over three million volumes, was the single largest university library in the world upon its completion,[97] and remains one of the 100 largest libraries in the country.[98] Rankings University rankings National [99] ARWU 90-110 [100] 12 Forbes [101] 19 U.S. News & World Report [102] Washington Monthly 16 Global [103] ARWU [104] 201-300 223 QS [105] 223 U.S. News & World Report [106] Times 89 In 2010–2011, Notre Dame ranked 19th overall among "national universities" in the United States in U.S. News & World Report's Best Colleges 2011.[107] Forbes.com's America's Best Colleges ranks Notre Dame 12th among colleges in the United States for 2012.[108] U.S. News & World Report also lists Notre Dame Law School as 22nd overall.[90] BusinessWeek ranks Mendoza College of Business undergraduate school as 1st overall.[109] It ranks the MBA program as 20th overall. Additionally, The Washington Monthly ranked the university 13th nationally in its 2006 edition.[110] The Philosophical Gourmet Report ranks Notre Dame's graduate philosophy program as 15th University of Notre Dame nationally,[111] while ARCHITECT Magazine ranked the undergraduate architecture program as 12th nationally.[112] The Princeton Review rated Notre Dame as the sixth most LGBT-Unfriendly College in the United States.[113] Additionally, the study abroad program ranks sixth in highest participation percentage in the nation, with 57.6% of students choosing to study abroad in 17 countries.[114] According to payscale.com, undergraduate alumni of University of Notre Dame have a mid-career median salary $121,000, making it the 8th highest among colleges and universities in the United States. The median starting salary of $55,300 ranked 41st in the same peer group.[115] Research Zahm Father Joseph Carrier, C.S.C. was Director of the Science Museum and the Library and Professor of Chemistry and Physics until 1874. Carrier taught that scientific research and its promise for progress were not antagonistic to the ideals of intellectual and moral culture endorsed by the Church. One of Carrier's students was Father John Zahm (1851–1921) who was made Professor and Co-Director of the Science Department at age 23 and by 1900 was a nationally prominent scientist and naturalist. Zahm was active in the Catholic Summer School movement, which introduced Catholic laity to contemporary intellectual issues. His book Evolution and Dogma (1896) defended certain aspects of evolutionary theory as true, and argued, moreover, that even the great Church teachers Thomas Aquinas and Augustine taught something like it. The intervention of Irish American Catholics in Rome prevented Zahm's censure by the Vatican. In 1913, Zahm and former President Theodore Roosevelt embarked on a major expedition through the Amazon.[116] Other science In 1882, Albert Zahm (John Zahm's brother) built an early wind tunnel used to compare lift to drag of aeronautical models. Around 1899, Professor Jerome Green became the first American to send a wireless message. In 1931, Father Julius Nieuwland performed early work on basic reactions that was used to create neoprene.[117] Study of nuclear physics at the university began with the building of a nuclear accelerator in 1936,[118] and continues now partly through a partnership in the Joint Institute for Nuclear Astrophysics. Lobund Institute The Lobund Institute grew out of pioneering research in germ-free-life which began in 1928. This area of research originated in a question posed by Pasteur as to whether animal life was possible without bacteria. Though others had taken up this idea, their research was short lived and inconclusive. Lobund was the first research organization to answer definitively, that such life is possible and that it can be prolonged through generations. But the objective was not merely to answer Pasteur's question but also to produce the germ free animal as a new tool for biological and medical research. This objective was reached and for years Lobund was a unique center for the study and production of germ free animals and for their use in biological and medical investigations. Today the work has spread to other universities. In the beginning it was under the Department of Biology and a program leading to the master's degree accompanied the research program. In the 1940s Lobund achieved independent status as a purely research organization and in 1950 was raised to the status of an Institute. In 1958 it was brought back into the Department of Biology as integral part of that department, but with its own program leading to the degree of PhD in Gnotobiotics.[119] 170 University of Notre Dame English Richard T. Sullivan taught English from 1936 to 1974 and published six novels, dozens of short stories, and various other efforts. He was known as a regional writer and a Catholic spokesman.[120] Frank O'Malley was an English professor during the 1930s–1960s. Influenced by Jacques Maritain, John U. Nef, and others, O'Malley developed a concept of Christian philosophy that was a fundamental element in his thought. Through his course "Modern Catholic Writers" O'Malley introduced generations of undergraduates to Gabriel Marcel, Graham Greene, Evelyn Waugh, Sigrid Undset, Paul Clandel, and Gerard Manley Hopkins.[121] European émigrés The rise of Hitler and other dictators in the 1930s forced numerous Catholic intellectuals to flee Europe; resident John O’Hara brought many to Notre Dame. From Germany came Anton-Hermann Chroust (1907–1982) in classics and law,[122] and Waldemar Gurian a German Catholic intellectual Hallway within Hurley Hall of Jewish descent. Positivism dominated American intellectual life in the 1920s onward but in marked contrast, Gurian received a German Catholic education and wrote his doctoral dissertation under Max Scheler.[123] Ivan Meštrović (1883–1962), a renowned sculptor, brought Croatian culture to campus, 1955–62.[124] Yves Simon (1903–61), brought to ND in the 1940s the insights of French studies in the Aristotelian-Thomistic tradition of philosophy; his own teacher Jacques Maritain (1882–73) was a frequent visitor to campus.[125] The exiles developed a distinctive emphasis on the evils of totalitarianism. For example the political science courses of Gerhart Niemeyer (1907–97) discussed communist ideology and were particularly accessible to his students. He came to ND in 1955, and was a frequent contributor to the National Review and other conservative magazines.[126] Political science The Review of Politics was founded in 1939 by Gurian, modeled after German Catholic journals. It quickly emerged as part of an international Catholic intellectual revival, offering an alternative vision to positivist philosophy. For 44 years, the Review was edited by Gurian, Matthew Fitzsimons, Frederick Crosson, and Thomas Stritch. Intellectual leaders included Gurian, Jacques Maritain, Frank O'Malley, Leo Richard Ward, F. A. Hermens, and John U. Nef. It became a major forum for political ideas and modern political concerns, especially from a Catholic and scholastic tradition.[127] Research As of 2012 research continued in many fields. The university president, John Jenkins, described his hope that Notre Dame would become "one of the pre–eminent research institutions in the world" in his inaugural address.[128] The university has many multi-disciplinary institutes devoted to research in varying fields, including the Medieval Institute, the Kellogg Institute for International Studies, the Kroc Institute for International Peace studies, and the Center for Social Concerns.[129] Recent research includes work on family conflict and child development,[130][131] genome mapping,[132] the increasing trade deficit of the United States with China,[133] studies in fluid 171 University of Notre Dame mechanics,[134] and marketing trends on the Internet.[135] Endowment Notre Dame's financial endowment was started in the early 1920s by university president James Burns, and increased to US$7 million by 1952 when Hesburgh became president. By the 1980s it reached $150 million, and in 2000 it returned a record 57.9% investment.[136] For the 2007 fiscal year, the endowment had grown to approximately $6.5 billion, putting the university in the top-15 largest endowments in the country.[137] As of October 2009, Notre Dame's endowment is valued at $5.5 billion.[137] Students In 2009 the Notre Dame student body consisted of 11,733 students, with 8,371 undergraduates and 3,362 graduate and professional students.[2] Around 21–24% of students are children of alumni,[138] and although 37% of students come from the Midwestern United States, the student body represents all 50 states and 100 countries.[2] The Princeton Review ranks the school as the fifth highest "dream school" for parents to send their children.[139] The school has been previously criticized for its lack of diversity,[140] and The Princeton Review ranks the university highly among schools at which "Alternative Lifestyles [are] Not an Alternative."[141] However, it has also been commended by some diversity oriented publications; Hispanic Magazine ranks the university ninth on its list of the top–25 colleges for Latinos,[142] and the Journal of Blacks in Higher Education recognizes the university for raising enrollment of African-American students.[143] With 6,000 participants, the university's intramural sports program has been named by Sports Illustrated as the best program in the country,[144] while The Princeton Review named it as the top school where "Everyone Plays Intramural Sports."[145] The annual Bookstore Basketball tournament is the largest outdoor five-on-five tournament in the world with over 700 teams participating each year,[146] while the Notre Dame Men's Boxing Club hosts the annual Bengal Bouts tournament that raises money for the Holy Cross Missions in Bangladesh.[147] The strictly measured federal graduation rate for athletes was 86% for freshmen who entered between 2000 and 2002. This is one of the highest in the country.[148] Residence halls About 80% of undergraduates and 20% of graduate students live on campus.[2] The majority of the graduate students on campus live in one of four graduate housing complexes on campus, while all on-campus undergraduates live in one of the 29 residence halls.[149] Because of the religious affiliation of the university, all residence halls are single-sex, with 15 male dorms and 14 female dorms.[150] The university maintains a visiting policy (known as parietal hours) for those students who live in dormitories, specifying times when members of the opposite A view of South Quad, which houses a large number of undergraduates. sex are allowed to visit other students' dorm rooms; however, all residence halls have 24-hour social spaces for students regardless of gender. Many residence halls have at least one nun and/or priest as a resident. There are no traditional social fraternities or sororities at the university, but a majority of students live in the same 172 University of Notre Dame residence hall for all four years. Some intramural sports are based on residence hall teams, where the university offers the only non-military academy program of full-contact intramural American football.[151] At the end of the intramural season, the championship game is played on the field in Notre Dame Stadium. Religious life The university is affiliated with the Congregation of Holy Cross. More than 93% of students identify as Christian, with over 80% of the total being Catholic.[152] The Basilica of the Sacred Heart is on campus and each residence hall has a chapel. Collectively, Catholic Mass is celebrated over 100 times per week on campus.[151] There are multitudes of religious statues and artwork around campus, most prominent of which are the statue of Mary on the Main Building, the Notre Dame Grotto, and the Word of Life mural on Hesburgh Library depicting Christ as a teacher. Additionally, every classroom displays a crucifix.[140] There are many religious clubs at the school, including Council #1477 of the Knights of Columbus (KOC), Baptist Collegiate Ministry (BCM), Jewish Club, Muslim Student Association, Orthodox Christian Fellowship, The Mormon Club, and many more. The Notre Dame KofC are known for being the first collegiate council of KofC, operating a charitable concession stand during every home football game and owning their own building on campus which can be used as a cigar lounge.[153] Student-run media As at most other universities, Notre Dame's students run a number of news media outlets. The nine student-run outlets include three newspapers, both a radio and television station, and several magazines and journals. The newspapers have varying publication interests, with The Observer published daily and mainly reporting university and other news.[154] The Observer is staffed by students from both Notre Dame and Saint Mary's College, the women's college located nearby. Unlike Scholastic and The Dome, The Observer is an independent publication and does not have a faculty advisor or any editorial oversight from the University. In 1987, when some students believed that The Observer began to show a conservative bias, a liberal newspaper, Common Sense was published. Likewise, in 2003, when other students believed that the paper showed a liberal bias, the conservative paper Irish Rover went into production. Neither paper is published as often as The Observer; however, all three are distributed to all students.[155] The television station, NDtv, grew from one show in 2002 to a full 24-hour channel with original programming by September 2006.[156] WSND-FM serves the student body and larger South Bend community at 88.9 FM, offering students a chance to become involved in bringing classical music, fine arts and educational programming, and alternative rock to the airwaves. Another radio station, WVFI, began as a partner of WSND-FM. More recently, however, WVFI has been airing independently and is streamed on the Internet.[157] Begun as a one-page journal in September 1876,[158] the Scholastic magazine is issued twice monthly and claims to be the oldest continuous collegiate publication in the United States. The other magazine, The Juggler, is released twice a year and focuses on student literature and artwork.[155] The Dome yearbook is published annually. Finally, in Spring 2008 an undergraduate journal for political science research, Beyond Politics, made its debut.[159] Community development Eddy Street Commons The first phase of Eddy Street Commons, a $215 million development located adjacent to the University of Notre Dame campus and funded by the university, broke ground on June 3, 2008.[160][161] The Eddy Street Commons drew union protests when workers hired by the City of South Bend to construct the public parking garage picketed the private work site after a contractor hired non-union workers.[162] The developer, Kite Realty out of Indianapolis, has made agreements with major national chains rather than local businesses, a move that has led to criticism from alumni and students.[163][164] 173 University of Notre Dame 174 Alumni Notre Dame alumni number near 120,000,[165] and are members of 275 alumni clubs around the world.[166] Many alumni give yearly monetary support to the university, with a school-record 53.2% giving some donation in 2006.[167] Many buildings on campus are named for those whose donations allowed their building, including residence halls,[168][169] classroom buildings,[170] and the performing arts center.[51] Notre Dame alumni work in various fields. Alumni working in political fields include state governors,[171] members of the United States Congress,[172] and former United States Secretary of State Condoleezza Rice.[173] A notable alumnus of the College of Science is Nobel Prize winner Eric F. Wieschaus. A number of university heads are alumni, including Notre Dame's current president, Rev. John Jenkins.[174] Additionally, many alumni are in the media, including talk show hosts Condoleezza Rice '75 MA Regis Philbin[175] and Phil Donahue,[176] and television and radio personalities such as Mike Golic[177] and Hannah Storm.[178] With the university having high profile sports teams itself, a number of alumni went on to become involved in athletics outside the university, including professional baseball, basketball, football, and ice hockey players, such as Joe Theisman, Joe Montana,[179] Tim Brown, Ross Browner, Rocket Ismail, Megan Duffy,[180] Jeff Samardzija,[181] Jerome Bettis, Brett Lebda Olympic gold medalist Mariel Zagunis, professional boxer Mike Lee, former football coaches such as Charlie Weis[182] and Knute Rockne,[183] and Basketball Hall of Famers Austin Carr and Adrian Dantley. Other notable alumni include prominent businessman Edward J. DeBartolo, Jr., and astronaut Jim Wetherbee.[184][185] Athletics Notre Dame's NCAA Division I teams are known as the Fighting Irish. This name was used in the early 1920s with respect to the football team and was popularized by alumnus Francis Wallace in his New York Daily News columns.[186] The official colors of Notre Dame are gold and blue[187] which are worn in competition by its athletic teams. In addition, the color green is often worn because of the Fighting Irish nickname.[188] The Notre Dame Leprechaun is the mascot of the athletic teams. Created by Theodore W. Drake in 1964, the leprechaun was first used on the football pocket schedule and later on the football program covers. The leprechaun was featured on the cover of Time in November 1964 and gained national exposure.[189] The university offers 26 varsity sports, 13 each for men and women.[190] 22 of these teams compete in the Big East Conference,[191] while football is Independent,[192] both fencing teams are in the Midwest Fencing Conference,[193] and the men's ice hockey team is in Hockey East.[194] The university marching band plays at home games for most of the sports. The band, which began in 1846 and has a claim as the oldest university band in continuous existence in the United States, was honored by the National Music Council as a "Landmark of American Music" during the United States Bicentennial.[195] The band regularly plays the school's fight song the Notre Dame Victory March, which was named as the most played and most famous fight song by Northern Illinois Professor William Studwell.[196] According to College Fight Songs: An Annotated Anthology published in 1998, the “Notre Dame Victory March” ranks as the greatest fight song of all time.[196] According to some analysts, Notre Dame promotes Muscular Christianity through its athletic programs.[197][198] University of Notre Dame Football The Notre Dame football team has a long history, first beginning when the Michigan Wolverines football team brought football to Notre Dame in 1887 and played against a group of students.[199] In the long history since then, 13 Fighting Irish teams have won consensus national championships (although the university only claims 11),[190] along with another nine teams being named national champion by at least one source.[200] Additionally, the program has the most members in the College Football Hall of Fame,[201][202] is tied with Ohio State University with the most Heisman Trophies won,[203] and have the second highest winning Notre Dame Stadium percentage in NCAA history.[204] With the long history, Notre Dame has accumulated many rivals, and its annual game against USC for the Jeweled Shillelagh has been named by some as the second greatest college football rivalry ever.[205] George Gipp was the school’s legendary football player during 1916–20. He played semiprofessional baseball and smoked, drank, and gambled when not playing sports. He was also humble, generous to the needy, and a man of integrity.[206] It was in 1928 that famed coach Knute Rockne used his final conversation with the dying Gipp to inspire the Notre Dame team to beat the Army team and "win one for the Gipper." The 1940 film, Knute Rockne, All American, starred Pat O'Brien as Knute Rockne and Ronald Reagan as Gipp. Today the team competes in Notre Dame Stadium, an 80,795-seat stadium on campus.[207] The current head coach is Brian Kelly, hired from the University of Cincinnati on December 11, 2009.[208] Kelly's record in two seasons at Notre Dame is 16–10.[209] He succeeded Charlie Weis, who was fired in November 2009 after five seasons.[210][211] Although Weis led his team to two Bowl Championship Series bowl games,[212] his overall record was 35–27,[213] mediocre by Notre Dame standards, and the 2007 team had the most losses in school history.[214] The football team generates enough revenue to operate independently while $22.1 million is retained from the team's profits for academic use. Forbes named the team as the most valuable in college football, worth a total of $101 million in 2007.[215] Men's basketball The men's basketball team has over 1,600 wins, one of only 12 schools who have reached that mark, and have appeared in 28 NCAA tournaments.[216] Former player Austin Carr holds the record for most points scored in a single game of the tournament with 61.[217] Although the team has never won the NCAA Tournament, they were named by the Helms Athletic Foundation as national champions twice.[216] The team has orchestrated a number of upsets of number one ranked teams, the most notable of which was ending UCLA's record 88-game winning streak in 1974.[218] The team has beaten an additional eight number-one teams, and those nine wins rank second, to UCLA's 10, all-time in wins against the top team.[216] The team plays in newly renovated Purcell Pavilion, which opened for the beginning of the 2009–2010 season,[219] The team is coached by Mike Brey, who, as of the 2011–12 season, his twelfth, has achieved a 259–130 record.[220] Just in 2009 they were invited to the NIT, where they advanced to the semifinals but were beaten by Penn State who went on and beat Baylor in the championship. The 2010–11 team concluded its regular season ranked number seven in the country, with a record of 25–5, Brey's fifth straight 20-win season, and a second place finish in the Big East. 175 University of Notre Dame Other sports Notre Dame has been successful in other sports besides football, with an additional 14 national championships in various sports. Three teams have won multiple national championships with the fencing team leading them with seven,[221] followed by the men's tennis and women's soccer teams each with two.[222][223] The men's cross country,[223] men's golf,[223] and women's basketball teams have each won one in their histories.[224] In the first ten years that Notre Dame competed in the Big East Conference its teams won a total of 64 championships.[225] In 2006–07, Notre Dame's hockey team finished the regular season ranked #1. The women's swimming and diving team holds the Big East record for consecutive conference championships in any sport with 14 straight conference titles (1997–2010)."Notre Dame Claims 14th Consecutive BIG EAST Title" [226] (Press release). University of Notre Dame Sports Information. Retrieved May 17, 2010. Music The Band of the Fighting Irish is the oldest university band in continuous existence.[227] It was formed in 1846. The all-male Glee Club was formed in 1915.[228] Fight Song The "Notre Dame Victory March" is the fight song for the University of Notre Dame. It was written by two brothers who were Notre Dame graduates. The Rev. Michael J. Shea, a 1904 graduate, wrote the music, and his brother, John F. Shea, who earned degrees in 1906 and 1908, wrote the original lyrics. The lyrics were revised in the 1920s; it first appeared under the copyright of the University of Notre Dame in 1928. The chorus is, "Cheer cheer for old Notre Dame, wake up the echos cheering her name. Send a volley cheer on high, shake down the thunder from the sky! What though the odds be great or small, old Notre Dame will win over all. While her loyal sons are marching, onward to victory!" The chorus of the song is one of the most recognizable collegiate fight songs in the United States, and was ranked first among fight songs by Northern Illinois University Professor William Studwell, who remarked it was "more borrowed, more famous and, frankly, you just hear it more."[196] In the film Knute Rockne, All American, Knute Rockne (played by Pat O'Brien) delivers the famous "Win one for the Gipper" speech, at which point the background music swells with the Notre Dame Victory March. George Gipp was played by Ronald Reagan, whose nickname "The Gipper" was derived from this role. The song also was prominent in the movie Rudy, with Sean Astin as Daniel "Rudy" Ruettiger, who harbored dreams of playing football at the University of Notre Dame despite significant obstacles. 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"Jenkins, family members reflect on rise to presidency" (http:/ / media. www. ndsmcobserver. com/ media/ storage/ paper660/ news/ 2005/ 04/ 27/ FathermonkMalloy/ Jenkins. Family. Members. Reflect. On. Rise. To. Presidency-938001. shtml). The Observer. . Retrieved December 19, 2007. [175] "Regis Philbin Biography (1933–)" (http:/ / www. biography. com/ search/ article. do?id=9542101). Biography.com. . Retrieved December 19, 2007. [176] "Phil Donahue Biography (1935–)" (http:/ / www. biography. com/ search/ article. do?id=9542194). Biography.com. . Retrieved December 19, 2007. [177] "Mike Golic" (http:/ / www. biography. com/ search/ article. do?id=9542194). ESPN. . Retrieved December 19, 2007. [178] "Hannah Storm" (http:/ / www. cbsnews. com/ stories/ 2002/ 10/ 14/ earlyshow/ bios/ main525455. shtml). CBS News. October 14, 2002. . Retrieved December 19, 2007. [179] Schwartz, Larry. "Montana was comeback king" (http:/ / espn. go. com/ sportscentury/ features/ 00016306. html). ESPN. . 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Retrieved December 19, 2007. [186] Sperber, Murray (2002). Shake Down the Thunder: The Creation of Notre Dame Football. Indiana University Press. p. 76. ISBN 0-253-21568-4. [187] "Gold And Blue" (http:/ / und. cstv. com/ trads/ nd-m-fb-goldandblue. html). und.com. . Retrieved July 23, 2011. [188] "Gold And Blue" (http:/ / und. cstv. com/ trads/ nd-m-fb-goldandblue. html). und.com. . Retrieved February 21, 2008. [189] "Ted Drake, Notre Dame and Sports Artist" (http:/ / web. archive. org/ web/ 20070830164945/ http:/ / mailmanagement. com/ Drake/ atists_bio. htm). Mail Management. Archived from the original (http:/ / mailmanagement. com/ Drake/ atists_bio. htm) on August 30, 2007. . Retrieved February 21, 2008. [190] "Athletics" (https:/ / admissions. nd. edu/ life-at-notre-dame/ campus-and-community/ athletics). University of Notre Dame. . Retrieved December 19, 2007. [191] "Notre Dame: Quick Facts" (http:/ / web. archive. org/ web/ 20080804114709/ http:/ / www. bigeast. org/ SportSelect. dbml?& DB_OEM_ID=19400& KEY=& SPID=11537). Big East Conference. Archived from the original (http:/ / www. bigeast. org/ SportSelect. dbml?& DB_OEM_ID=19400& KEY=& SPID=11537) on August 4, 2008. . Retrieved December 19, 2007. 182 University of Notre Dame [192] Whiteside, Kelly (July 2, 2003). "Notre Dame courted but relishes football independence" (http:/ / www. usatoday. com/ sports/ college/ 2003-07-01-irish-big-east_x. htm). USA Today. . Retrieved December 19, 2007. [193] "Irish to host Midwest Fencing Conference Championship" (http:/ / www. cstv. com/ sports/ c-fenc/ uwire/ 022406aab. html). CSTV. . Retrieved December 19, 2007. [194] "Notre Dame" (http:/ / web. archive. org/ web/ 20071218062431/ http:/ / ccha. cstv. com/ schools/ nd/ ccha-nd-body. html). Central Collegiate Hockey Association. Archived from the original (http:/ / ccha. cstv. com/ schools/ nd/ ccha-nd-body. html) on December 18, 2007. . Retrieved December 19, 2007. [195] "History" (http:/ / www. nd. edu/ ~ndband/ history. html). University of Notre Dame. . Retrieved December 7, 2007. [196] Leroux, Charles (October 21, 1998). "'Victory March' rated No. 1 college fight song" (http:/ / newsinfo. nd. edu/ news/ 6427-victory-march-rated-no-1-college-fight-song/ ). University of Notre Dame. . Retrieved August 2, 2011. [197] Alister E. McGrath (2008). Christianity's Dangerous Idea (http:/ / books. google. com/ books?id=KQzhEclsl94C& pg=PT380& dq=Muscular+ Christianity+ Athletes+ in+ Action& hl=en& ei=JTo3TsL0CMfY0QG97OmZDA& sa=X& oi=book_result& ct=result& resnum=9& ved=0CFIQ6AEwCA#v=onepage& q=Muscular Christianity Athletes in Action& f=false). HarperOne. . Retrieved August 1, 2011. "Nor is sport a purely Protestant concern: Catholicism can equally well be said to promote muscular Christianity, at least to some extent, through the athletic programs of such leading schools as the University of Notre Dame in Indiana." [198] Michael S. Kimmel; Amy Aronson (2004). Men and Masculinities: a Social, Cultural, and Historical Encyclopædia, Volume 1 (http:/ / books. google. com/ books?id=jWj5OBvTh1IC& pg=PA558& dq=muscular+ christianity+ protestantism+ catholicism& hl=en& ei=d0Q3TvKUGonj0QGni520Aw& sa=X& oi=book_result& ct=result& resnum=2& ved=0CC4Q6AEwAQ#v=onepage& q& f=false). ABC-CLIO. . Retrieved August 1, 2011. "As neo-orthodoxy arose in the mainline Protestant churches, Muscular Christianity declined there. It did not, however, disappear from American landscape, because it found some new sponsors. In the early 2000s (decade) these include the Catholic Church and various rightward-leaning Protestant groups. The Catholic Church promotes Muscular Christianity in the athetic programs of schools such as Notre Dame, as do evangelical Protestant groups such as Promise Keepers, Athletes in Action, and the Fellowship of Christian Athletes." [199] Meskill, Christopher (February 2007). "History Repeated" (http:/ / www. nd. edu/ ~scholast/ issues/ 148/ 7/ games/ Michigan. html). Scholastic. . Retrieved December 19, 2007. [200] "Notre Dame Football history databaseO" (http:/ / www. nationalchamps. net/ NCAA/ database/ notredame_database. htm). Nationalchamps.net. . Retrieved December 19, 2007. [201] "Hall of Famers: Notre Dame" (http:/ / www. collegefootball. org/ famersearch. php?school=Notre Dame& sortby=name). Collegefootball.org. . Retrieved December 17, 2007. [202] "Chris Zorich Named To College Football Hall Of Fame" (http:/ / und. cstv. com/ sports/ m-footbl/ spec-rel/ 050907aab. html). und.com. May 9, 2007. . Retrieved December 17, 2007. [203] "Heisman Winners" (http:/ / www. heisman. com/ winners/ hsmn-winners. html). Heisman.com. . Retrieved November 23, 2007. [204] "Notre Dame Media Guide:History and Records" (http:/ / und. cstv. com/ auto_pdf/ p_hotos/ s_chools/ nd/ sports/ m-footbl/ auto_pdf/ 07fbguidehistory) (PDF). University of Notre Dame. . Retrieved December 17, 2007. [205] Fiutak, Pete (November 17, 2006). "The Ten Greatest College Football Rivalries" (http:/ / cfn. scout. com/ 2/ 591649. html). College Football News. . Retrieved June 25, 2007. [206] John U. Bacon, "The Gipper," Michigan History 2001 85(6): 48–55, [207] "Notre Dame Stadium" (http:/ / und. cstv. com/ facilities/ nd-stadium. html). University of Notre Dame. . Retrieved December 19, 2007. [208] "Coach Kelly introduced in South Bend" (http:/ / sports. espn. go. com/ ncf/ news/ story?id=4734086). ESPN.com. December 11, 2009. . Retrieved May 6, 2012. [209] "All-Time Coaching Records: Brian Kelly Records by Year" (http:/ / www. cfbdatawarehouse. com/ data/ coaching/ alltime_coach_year_by_year. php?coachid=3523). College Football Data Warehouse. . Retrieved May 6, 2012. [210] "Notre Dame extends Weis through 2015" (http:/ / sports. espn. go. com/ ncf/ news/ story?id=2207478). ESPN. October 30, 2005. . Retrieved November 13, 2007. [211] "Charlie Weis Fired as Notre Dame Football Coach after 5 Seasons" (http:/ / www. bloomberg. com/ apps/ news?pid=20601079& sid=asOpzOqT0cRw). Bloomberg. November 30, 2009. . Retrieved December 1, 2009. [212] "Profile: Charlie Weis" (http:/ / und. cstv. com/ sports/ m-footbl/ mtt/ weis_charlie00. html). University of Notre Dame. . Retrieved December 19, 2007. [213] "All-Time Coaching Records: Charlie Weis Records by Year" (http:/ / www. cfbdatawarehouse. com/ data/ coaching/ alltime_coach_year_by_year. php?coachid=3761). College Football Data Warehouse. . Retrieved May 6, 2012. [214] "Air Force 41, Notre Dame 24 – Fighting Irish suffer school-record ninth loss this season" (http:/ / sports. espn. go. com/ ncf/ recap?gameId=273140087). ESPN. November 11, 2007. . Retrieved November 10, 2007. [215] Schwartz, Peter J. (November 21, 2007). "College football teams getting filthy rich" (http:/ / www. msnbc. msn. com/ id/ 21916667/ ). Forbes. . Retrieved December 19, 2007. [216] "Notre Dame Men's Basketball Media Guide: Notre Dame Basketball A Storied Tradition" (http:/ / und. cstv. com/ photos/ schools/ nd/ sports/ m-baskbl/ auto_pdf/ 0708mbbmgintro. pdf) (PDF). University of Notre Dame. . Retrieved December 20, 2007. [217] "Tourney History: Single-Game Scoring Performances" (http:/ / www. sportsline. com/ collegebasketball/ mayhem/ history/ singlescoring). CBS. . Retrieved December 20, 2007. 183 University of Notre Dame [218] Marquette, Ray (February 2, 1974). "88 consecutive wins" (http:/ / www. sportingnews. com/ archives/ sports2000/ numbers/ 139123. html). The Sporting News. . Retrieved December 20, 2007. [219] "Joyce Center (Basketball)" (http:/ / und. cstv. com/ facilities/ nd-joycecenter. html). University of Notre Dame. . Retrieved December 20, 2007. [220] "Mike Brey Signs Two-Year Contract Extension Through 2012–13" (http:/ / und. cstv. com/ sports/ m-baskbl/ spec-rel/ 050307aag. html). University of Notre Dame. May 3, 2007. . Retrieved December 20, 2007. [221] "Notre Dame Fencing Media Guide:History" (http:/ / und. cstv. com/ photos/ schools/ nd/ sports/ c-fenc/ auto_pdf/ 0708fenguidehistory. pdf) (PDF). University of Notre Dame. . Retrieved December 20, 2007. [222] "Men's Tennis: Quick Facts" (http:/ / www. fansonly. com/ photos/ schools/ nd/ sports/ m-tennis/ auto_pdf/ 0708mtquickfacts. pdf) (PDF). University of Notre Dame. . Retrieved December 20, 2007. [223] "History – Past Champions" (http:/ / www. ncaasports. com/ soccer/ womens/ history). NCAA. . Retrieved December 20, 2007. [224] Coyle, Tom (April 2, 2001). "Irish students overjoyed after national title win" (http:/ / www. usatoday. com/ sports/ basketba/ marchmania/ 2001womens/ stories/ 2001-04-01-notredame-campus. htm#more). USA Today. . Retrieved December 19, 2007. [225] "Notre Dame Will Officially Mark Its 10th Year In The Big East Conference Tuesday Night" (http:/ / und. cstv. com/ genrel/ 020705aaa. html). University of Notre Dame. February 7, 2005. . Retrieved December 20, 2007. [226] http:/ / www. und. com/ sports/ w-swim/ recaps/ 022010aaa. html [227] University of Notre Dame (http:/ / www. nd. edu/ ~ndband/ history. html) [228] "UND Glee Club » About » About / History" (http:/ / gleeclub. nd. edu/ index_about. htm). Gleeclub.nd.edu. . Retrieved 2012-06-04. Further reading • Burns, Robert E. Being Catholic, Being American: The Notre Dame Story, 1934–1952, Vol. 2. (2000). 632pp. excerpt and text search (http://www.amazon.com/dp/0268021635) • Corson, Dorothy V. A Cave of Candles: The Spirit, History, Legends and Lore of Notre Dame and Saint Mary's (2006), 222pp. • Hesburgh, Theodore M. God, Country, Notre Dame: The Autobiography of Theodore M. Hesburgh (2000) • McAvoy, Thomas T. "Notre Dame, 1919–1922: The Burns Revolution." Review of Politics 1963 25(4): 431–450. in JSTOR (http://www.jstor.org/stable/1405842) • McAvoy, Thomas T. Father O'Hara of Notre Dame (1967) • Massa, Mark S. Catholics and American Culture: Fulton Sheen, Dorothy Day, and the Notre Dame Football Team. (1999). 278 pp. • O'Brien, Michael. Hesburgh: A Biography. (1998). 354 pp. • O'Connell, Marvin R. Edward Sorin. (2001). 792 pp. • Rice, Charles E., Ralph McInerny, and Alfred J. Freddoso. What Happened to Notre Dame? (2009) laments the weakening of Catholicism at ND • Robinson, Ray. Rockne of Notre Dame: The Making of a Football Legend. (1999). 290 pp. • Sperber, Murray. Shake Down the Thunder: The Creation of Notre Dame Football. (1993) 634 pp. • Yaeger, Don and Looney, Douglas S. Under the Tarnished Dome: How Notre Dame Betrayed Its Ideals for Football Glory. (1993). 299 pp. External links • University of Notre Dame (http://www.nd.edu/) • Notre Dame Fighting Irish, the Official Athletic Site (http://und.cstv.com/) • Campus map (http://www.nd.edu/campus-and-community/campus-map/pdfs/campus-map.pdf) 184 Bus Éireann 185 Bus Éireann Bus Éireann - Irish Bus Parent Córas Iompair Éireann Founded 1987 Headquarters Broadstone, Dublin Service area Ireland Service type public bus service and school bus service Alliance Ulsterbus Fuel type Diesel, NGV (Trial) Web site BusÉireann.ie [1] Bus Éireann (Irish pronunciation: [ˈbˠɔsˠ ˈeːɾʲən̪ˠ], Irish Bus) provides bus services in Ireland with the exception of those operated entirely within the Dublin Region, which are provided by Dublin Bus. Bus Éireann, established as a separate company in 1987, is a subsidiary of Córas Iompair Éireann. The logo of Bus Éireann incorporates a red Irish Setter, a breed of dog which originated in Ireland. The company's primary hub is Busáras - Central Bus Station, located in Store Street, Central Dublin. In 2007, the company carried 96 million passengers.[2]. In 2010, reduced tourism and slowdown in retailing in Ireland had reduced the number to 79,5 million passengers. [3] Bus Éireann Scania Irizar Services Bus Éireann's main services in the Republic of Ireland and in Northern Ireland in association with Ulsterbus include: expressway (intercity), commuter, local and school services. Additional services within Ireland include city services in Cork, Galway, Limerick and Waterford and town services in Athlone, Balbriggan, Drogheda, Dundalk, Navan and Sligo. International services to Great Britain and Europe are also provided via the ports at Dublin and Rosslare Europort via the Eurolines system. Cities served include London, Birmingham, Manchester, Liverpool and Leeds. Bus Éireann coach in Busáras Bus Éireann 186 Service expansion According to transport law in Ireland, Bus Éireann must receive permission from the Department of Transport for any alterations to services or any new routes. The National Development Plan included a large expansion in commuter services, especially in the greater Dublin area, and so the company greatly increased services on routes such as Dublin/Drogheda/Dundalk, Dublin/Ashbourne, Dublin/Ratoath, Dublin/Dunshaughlin/Navan/Kells/Cavan; this has been driven mainly by the economic boom of the Nineties, known as the Celtic Tiger. Bus Éireann Volvo B7R/Plaxton Prima Bus Éireann has also introduced regular clockface schedules on popular Expressway routes, such as hourly services on the routes Dublin/Athlone/Galway, Dublin/Belfast, Tralee/Killarney/Cork/Waterford, Cork/Limerick/Shannon Airport/Galway. The Dublin/Dublin Airport/Newry/Belfast route is jointly operated by Bus Éireann and Ulsterbus. In fact, at the time of the establishment of the company Bus service in Cork on Route 8 to Bishopstown in February 1987, there were no bus services between Dublin and Belfast. Now there is an hourly service each way, from 0600 to 2100 daily; this has come about due to several factors, including the economic boom in the Republic, known as the Celtic Tiger; the Northern Ireland peace process, which has helped to boost the economy in the North, and the Bus Éireann Logo 2000-2007 rise of the low-cost airline industry, which has greatly increased the numbers of people flying in and out of Dublin Airport. In October 2006, further services were introduced on this route, departing at 0100, 0300, 0500, and 2300, thus the route became the first "24-hour service" in the country.[4] The service has since been upgraded to an hourly service, 24 hours a day. A similar service is to be implemented on the 002 route between Dublin Airport and Rosslare Harbour, starting 18 January 2009. Services depart Dublin Airport for Rosslare on the hour from 0500 to 2300, with services during the night at 0100 and 0300.[5] As with the Dublin/Belfast route, the Dublin/Derry route is also jointly operated. On 4 September 2006 a new timetable on the Dublin/Derry route was launched, increasing the service level up to nine trips per day, including night-time services. Bus Éireann has stated that they also intend to develop similar services to the 24-hour Dublin-Belfast route on the following routes: Donegal-Dublin, Ballina-Dublin, Sligo-Dublin and Drogheda-Balbriggan-Dublin Airport-Dublin.[4] Bus Éireann 187 On 20 January 2009, Bus Éireann announced that it was to let 320 staff go and withdraw 150 buses due to the economic crisis. Some services are being permanently withdrawn or being reduced due to the cutbacks.[6] Tourism services Bus Éireann operates special one-day sightseeing tours from Dublin to locations such as Glendalough, Newgrange; from Cork, day tours to the Ring of Kerry, County Clare, West Cork and Cape Clear Island; and from Galway, tours of Connemara and the Burren. Real Time Passenger Information The Bus Arrival Information Service is being rolled out across Cork and Dublin, and provides real time estimates of bus arrivals at certain bus stops, based on current GPS locations of buses. It is being run by the National Transport Authority under the brand Transport for Ireland, a single portal providing information on public transport in Ireland. Stations Bus Éireann's bus stations have been upgraded in many locations around the country. the prime example is Cork bus station, located at Parnell Place in the city centre, which was remodelled as part of the city's preparation for being European Capital of Culture, 2005. Other new bus stations include Sligo, Waterford and Letterkenny. A new bus station for Killarney was integrated into a shopping centre development. Limerick will also be getting a new bus station in the near future. The Parnell Place bus station in Cork Safety Bus Éireann has had a few fatal incidents in recent years, with those involving school buses being particularly scrutinised. After the death of five schoolgirls in a fatal accident in County Meath in 2005 involving a DAF MB230/Van Hool (ex front line expressway) school bus, all school buses are to be fitted with seatbelts. Some non-fatal incidents have also been quite serious, for example, an off-duty bus plunging into the River Liffey in Dublin, after a collision with another vehicle. The company has also posted notices to encourage orderly queuing at bus stops after a series of incidents where pedestrians on the foot path were struck on the head by the wing mirrors of city buses. Bus Éireann 188 Natural Gas Buses Bus Eireann Introduced the first NGV on 17th July 2012 in Cork. It will operate on the 216 Cork City centre to Mount Oval, Rochestown, route until mid-August on a trial being undertaken in partnership with Bord Gáis. The Eco-city bus is made by MAN. [7] Vehicle fleet The company mainly uses buses built by firms such as Scania, VDL Berkhof and Volvo. Bus Éireann's fleet have been substantially invested in as part of the National Development Plan. The vast majority of the operating fleet for "expressway", commuter and local services are now 5 years old or less. Bus Scoile A VDL Berkhof Axial outside Dublin Connolly Bus Éireann operates the School Transport Scheme on behalf of the station. Department of Education and Science. County Meath VEC assist Bus Éireann in administrating the service in County Meath to all second-level schools.[8] Bus Éireann is responsible for planning routes, employing bus drivers, collecting fares and ensuring compliance with safety regulations and insurance. The 'Schools' services were until recently operated by cascaded second-hand ex-frontline vehicles. Due to recent regulations regarding seatbelts, all dated and unsuited vehicles were withdrawn replaced with second-hand vehicles (mainly from UK). Since 2006 Bus Éireann has being purchasing brand new buses from DMC in Turkey. A roll out of BMC 1100FE started between 2006-2008. Bus Scoile logo A number of the routes are outsourced to local bus companies such as Dunshaughlin Coach Hire, Jerry Ryan, O'Rourkes and Bernard Kavanaghs. Longford have some ex-Dublin Bus school vehicles and are used on Bus Éireann services. Preservation Bus Scoile buses in Thurles Depot A collection of older vehicles, many of which were unique to Ireland, are now preserved and can be seen from time to time at vintage shows. These vehicles are owned by private individuals with the support of Bus Éireann. Bus Éireann References [1] http:/ / www. buseireann. ie [2] 2007 Annual Report and Financial Statements 2007 (http:/ / www. buseireann. ie/ pdf/ 1217247682-BE-AR07-EN-pics. pdf) Bus Éireann [3] 2010 Annual Report and Financial Statements 2007 (http:/ / www. buseireann. ie/ pdf/ 1307721045-BE-CIE-Report-2010-WEB. pdf) Bus Éireann [4] Ireland’s First 24 Hour Inter-City (http:/ / www. insidegovernment. ie/ newswire_detail. php?iResearchId=6718) Inside Government [5] Bus Éireann serving Dublin Airport from Rosslare (http:/ / www. buseireann. ie/ news. php?id=692& month=Jan) Bus Éireann, 16 January 2009 [6] 320 jobs to go at Bus Éireann (http:/ / www. rte. ie/ news/ 2009/ 0120/ buseireann. html) RTÉ News, 20 January 2009 [7] http:/ / www. irishexaminer. com/ archives/ 2012/ 0717/ ireland/ natural-gas-bus-hits-the-streets-in-bid-to-cut-fuel-bill-201037. html [8] School Transport (http:/ / www. meathvec. ie/ index. cfm/ do/ schooltransport) Meath VEC External links • • • • Official site - Bus Éireann (http://www.buseireann.ie) Network Map (http://www.buseireann.ie/pdf/1282732129-Network-map.pdf) Bus Éireann Busáras (http://www.irish-architecture.com/busaras) Irish Architecture Online Journey planner for Ireland, including Bus Éireann Routes (http://justroutes.com) 189 Derry 190 Derry Derry / Londonderry Scots: Derrie / Lunnonderrie Irish: Doire / Doire Cholmcille Maiden City From top, left to right: An aerial view of Derry, Guildhall, Murals in the Bogside, Derry walls, Hands Across the Divide sculpture, the Waterfront. Vita Veritas Victoria "Life, Truth, Victory" (Adapted from a decoration on the Craigavon Bridge) Derry / Londonderry shown within Northern Ireland Population Irish grid reference Derry 85,016 Urban 93,512 Metro 237,000 [1] 2008 est. C434166 [2] District Derry City County County Londonderry Derry 191 Country Northern Ireland Sovereign state United Kingdom Post town Postcode district Dialling code [3] LONDONDERRY BT47 BT48 028 Police Northern Ireland Fire Northern Ireland Ambulance Northern Ireland EU Parliament Northern Ireland UK Parliament Foyle NI Assembly Foyle Website www.derrycity.gov.uk [4] Derry or Londonderry is the second-biggest city in Northern Ireland[5][6] and the fourth-biggest city on the island of Ireland.[7] The name Derry is an anglicisation of the Irish name Daire or Doire meaning "oak grove".[8][9] In 1613, the city was granted a Royal Charter by King James I and the "London" prefix was added, changing the name of the city to Londonderry. While the city is more usually known as Derry,[10][11] Londonderry is also used and remains the legal name. The old walled city lies on the west bank of the River Foyle, which is spanned by two road bridges and one footbridge. The city now covers both banks (Cityside on the west and Waterside on the east). The city district also extends to rural areas to the southeast. The population of the city proper (the area defined by its 17th-century charter) was 83,652 in the 2001 Census, while the Derry Urban Area had a population of 90,663.[12] The Derry City Council area had a population of 107,300 as of June 2006.[13] The district is administered by Derry City Council and contains both Londonderry Port and City of Derry Airport. The Greater Derry area, that area within about 20 miles (unknown operator: u'strong' km) of the city, has a population of 237,000.[14] This comprises the districts of Derry City and parts of Limavady district, Strabane district, and East Donegal (including Raphoe and St Johnston), along with Inishowen.[15] Derry is close to the border with County Donegal, with which it has had a close link for many centuries. The person traditionally seen as the 'founder' of the original Derry is Saint Colmcille, a holy man from Tír Chonaill, the old name for almost all of modern County Donegal (of which the west bank of the Foyle was a part before c. 1600). Derry and the nearby town of Letterkenny form the major economic core of north west Ireland. In 2013, Derry will become the first city to be designated UK City of Culture, having been awarded the title in July 2010.[16][17] Derry 192 Name According to the city's Royal Charter of 10 April 1662 the official name is Londonderry. This was reaffirmed in a High Court decision in January 2007 when Derry City Council sought guidance on the procedure for effecting a name change.[18][19] The council had changed its name from "Londonderry City Council" to "Derry City Council" in 1984;[20] the court case was seeking clarification as to whether this had also changed the name of the city. The decision of the court was that it had not but it was clarified that the correct procedure to do so was via a petition to the Privy Council.[21] Derry City Council since started this process and were involved in conducting an equality impact assessment report (EQIA).[22] Firstly it held an opinion poll of district residents in 2009, which reported that 75% of Catholics and 77% of Nationalists found the proposed change acceptable, compared to 6% of Protestants and 8% of Unionists.[23] Then the EQIA held two consultative forums, and solicited comments from the general public on whether or not the city should have its name changed to Derry.[24] A total of 12,136 comments were received, of which 3,108 were broadly in favour of the proposal, and 9,028 opposed to it.[24] Road-sign in Northern Ireland with the reference to London obscured Despite the official name, the city is more usually known as simply Derry,[10][11] which is an anglicisation of the Irish Daire or Doire, and translates as "oak-grove/oak-wood". The name derives from the settlement's earliest references, Daire Calgaich ("oak-grove of Calgach").[25] The name was changed from Derry in 1613 during the Plantation of Ulster to reflect the establishment of the city by the London guilds.[26][27] The name "Derry" is preferred by nationalists and it is broadly used throughout Northern Ireland's Catholic community,[28] as well as that of the Republic of Ireland, whereas many unionists prefer "Londonderry";[29][30] however in everyday conversation Derry is used by most Protestant residents of the city.[31] Apart from this local government decision, the city is usually[28] known as Londonderry in official use within the UK. In the Republic of Ireland, the city and county are almost always referred to as Derry, on maps, in the media and in conversation.[32] In April 2009, however, the Republic of Road-signs in (in this case in County Ireland's Minister for Foreign Affairs, Micheál Martin, announced that Donegal) in the Republic of Ireland use Derry only Irish passport holders who were born there could record either Derry or [33] Londonderry as their place of birth. Whereas official road signs in the Republic use the name Derry, those in Northern Ireland bear Londonderry (sometimes abbreviated to L'Derry), although some of these have been defaced with the reference to London obscured.[30] Usage varies among local organisations, with both names being used. Examples are City of Derry Airport, City of Derry Rugby Club, Derry City FC and the Protestant Apprentice Boys of Derry, as opposed to Londonderry Port, Londonderry YMCA Rugby Club and Londonderry Chamber Of Commerce.[34] Most companies within the city choose local area names such as Pennyburn, Rosemount or "Foyle" from the River Foyle to avoid alienating the other community. Londonderry Derry 193 railway station is often referred to as Waterside railway station within the city but is called Derry/Londonderry at other stations. The council changed the name of the local government district covering the city to Derry on 7 May 1984, consequently renaming itself Derry City Council.[35] This did not change the name of the city, although the city is coterminous with the district, and in law the city council is also the "Corporation of Londonderry" or, more formally, the "Mayor, Aldermen and Citizens of the City of Londonderry".[36] The form "Londonderry" is used for the post town by the Royal Mail, however use of Derry will still ensure delivery. The city is also nicknamed the Maiden City by virtue of the fact that its walls were never breached during the Siege of Derry in the late 17th century.[37] It is also nicknamed Stroke City by local broadcaster, Gerry Anderson, due to the 'politically correct' use of the oblique notation Derry/Londonderry [28] (which appellation has itself been used by BBC Television[38]). A recent addition to the landscape has been the erection of several large stone columns on main roads into the city welcoming drivers, euphemistically, to "the walled city". The name Derry is very much in popular use throughout Ireland for the naming of places, and there are at least six towns bearing that name and at least a further 79 places. The word Derry often forms part of the place name, for example Derrymore, Derrybeg and Derrylea. The name Derry/Londonderry is not limited to Ireland. There is a town called Derry situated right beside another town called Londonderry in New Hampshire in the United States of America. There are also Londonderrys in Yorkshire, England, in Vermont, USA, in Nova Scotia, Canada, and in northern and eastern Australia. Londonderry Island is situated off of Tierra Del Fuego in Chile. Derry is also a fictional town in Maine, USA, used in some Stephen King novels.[39] City walls Derry is the only remaining completely intact walled city in Ireland and one of the finest examples of a walled city in Europe.[40][41][42] The walls constitute the largest monument in State care in Northern Ireland and, as the last walled city to be built in Europe, stands as the most complete and spectacular.[43] The Walls were built during the period 1613-1619 by The Honourable The Irish Society as defences for early 17th century settlers from England and Scotland. The Walls, which are approximately 1 mile (1.5 km) in circumference and which vary in height and width between 12 and 35 feet (4 to 12 metres), are completely intact and form a walkway around the inner city. They provide a unique promenade to view the layout of the original town which still preserves its Renaissance style street plan. The four original gates to the Walled City are Bishop’s Gate, Ferryquay Gate, Butcher Gate and Shipquay Gate. Three further gates were added later, Magazine Gate, Castle Gate and New Gate, making seven gates in total. Historic buildings within the walls include the 1633 Gothic cathedral of St Columb, the Apprentice Boys Memorial Hall and the courthouse. It is one of the few cities in Europe that never saw its fortifications breached, withstanding several sieges including one in 1689 which lasted 105 days, hence the city's nickname, The Maiden City.[44] A portion of the city walls of Derry. Bishops Street Gate Derry History Early history Derry is one of the oldest continuously inhabited places in Ireland.[45] The earliest historical references date to the 6th century when a monastery was founded there by St Columba or Colmcille, a famous saint from what is now County Donegal, but for thousands of years before that people had been living in the vicinity. Before leaving Ireland to spread Christianity elsewhere, Columba founded a monastery in the then Doire Calgach, on the east side of the river Foyle. According to oral and documented history, the site was granted to Columba by a local king.[46] The monastery then remained in the hands of the federation of St Columb's Cathedral Columban churches who regarded Colmcille as their spiritual mentor. The year 546 is often referred to as the date that the original settlement was founded. However it is now accepted by historians that this was an erroneous date assigned by medieval chroniclers.[45] It is accepted that between the 6th century and the 11th century, Derry was known primarily as a monastic settlement.[45] The town became strategically more significant during the Tudor conquest of Ireland and came under frequent attack, until in 1608 it was destroyed by Cahir O'Doherty, Irish chieftain of Inishowen.[47] Plantation Planters organised by London livery companies through The Honourable The Irish Society arrived in the 17th century as part of the Plantation of Ulster, and built the city of Londonderry across the Foyle from the earlier town, with walls to defend it from Irish insurgents who opposed the plantation. The aim was to settle Ulster with a population supportive of the Crown.[27] This city was the first planned city in Ireland: it was begun in 1613, with the walls being completed in 1619, at a cost of £10,757.[48] The central diamond within a walled city with four gates was thought to be a good design for defence. The grid pattern chosen was subsequently much copied in the colonies of British North America.[49] The charter initially defined the city as extending three Irish miles (about 6.1 km) from the centre. The modern city preserves the 17th century layout of four main streets radiating from a central Diamond to four gateways — Bishop's Gate, Ferryquay Gate, Shipquay Gate and Butcher's Gate. The city's oldest surviving building was also constructed at this time: the 1633 Plantation Gothic cathedral of St Columb. In the porch of the cathedral is a stone that records completion with the inscription: "If stones could speake, then London's prayse should sound, Who built this church and cittie from the grounde."[50] 17th-century upheavals During the 1640s, the city suffered in the Wars of the Three Kingdoms, which began with the Irish Rebellion of 1641, when the Gaelic Irish insurgents made a failed attack on the city. In 1649 the city and its garrison, which supported the republican Parliament in London, were besieged by Scottish Presbyterian forces loyal to King Charles I. The Parliamentarians besieged in Derry were relieved by a strange alliance of Roundhead troops under George Monck and the Irish Catholic general Owen Roe O'Neill. These temporary allies were soon fighting each other again however, after the landing in Ireland of the New Model Army in 1649. The war in Ulster was finally brought to an end when the Parliamentarians crushed the Irish Catholic Ulster army at the battle of Scarrifholis in nearby Donegal in 1650. 194 Derry 195 During the Glorious Revolution, only Derry and nearby Enniskillen had a Protestant garrison by November 1688. An army of around 1,200 men, mostly "Redshanks" (Highlanders), under Alexander Macdonnell, 3rd Earl of Antrim, was slowly organised (they set out on the week William of Orange landed in England). When they arrived on 7 December 1688 the gates were closed against them and the Siege of Derry began. In April 1689, King James came to the city and summoned it to surrender. The King was rebuffed and the siege lasted until the end of July with the arrival of a relief ship. 18th and 19th centuries The city was rebuilt in the 18th century with many of its fine Georgian style houses still surviving. The city's first bridge across the River Foyle was built in 1790. During the 18th and 19th centuries the port became an important embarkation point for Irish emigrants setting out for North America. Some of these founded the colonies of Derry and Londonderry in the state of New Hampshire. Also during the 19th century, it became a destination for migrants fleeing areas more severely affected by the Irish Potato Famine.[51][52] One of the most notable shipping lines was the McCorkell Line operated by Wm. McCorkell & Co. Ltd. from 1778.[53] The McCorkell's most famous ship was the Minnehaha, which was known as the "Green Yacht from Derry".[53] Map of County Londonderry 1837 Early 20th Century World War I The city contributed over 5,000 men to the British Army from Catholic and Protestant families. Partition During the Irish War of Independence, the area was rocked by sectarian violence, partly prompted by the guerilla war raging between the Irish Republican Army and British forces, but also influenced by economic and social pressures. By mid-1920 there was severe sectarian rioting in the city.[55][56] Many lives were lost and in addition many Catholics and Protestants were expelled from their homes during this communal unrest. After a week's violence, a truce was negotiated by local politicians on both unionist and republican sides. In 1921, following the Anglo-Irish Treaty and the Partition of Ireland, it unexpectedly became a 'border city', separated from much of its traditional economic hinterland in County Donegal. World War II The war memorial in The Diamond, [54] erected 1927 During World War II, the city played an important part in the Battle of the Atlantic.[57] Ships from the Royal Navy, the Royal Canadian Navy, and other Allied navies were stationed in the city and the United States military established a base. Over 20,000 Royal Navy, 10,000 Royal Canadian Navy, and 6,000 American Navy personnel were stationed in the city during the war.[58] The Derry 196 establishment of the American presence in the city was the result of a secret agreement between the Americans and the British before the Americans entered the war.[59] It was the first American naval base in Europe and the terminal for American convoys on route to Europe. The reason for such a high degree of military and naval activity was self-evident: Derry was the United Kingdom's westernmost port; indeed, the city was the westernmost Allied port in Europe: thus, Derry was a crucial jumping-off point, together with Glasgow and Liverpool, for the shipping convoys that ran between Europe and North America. The large numbers of military personnel in Derry substantially altered the character of the city, bringing in some outside colour to the local area, as well as some cosmopolitan and economic buoyancy during these years. Several airfields were built in the outlying regions of the city at this time, Maydown, Eglinton and Ballykelly. RAF Eglinton went on to become City of Derry Airport. The city contributed significant number of men to the war effort throughout the services, most notably the 500 men in the 9th (Londonderry) Heavy Anti-Aircraft Regiment, known as the ‘Derry Boys’. This regiment served in North Africa, the Sudan, Italy and mainland UK. Many others served in the Merchant Navy taking part in the convoys that supplied the UK and Russia during the war. The border location of the city, and influx of trade from the military convoys allowed for significant smuggling operations to develop in the city. At the conclusion of the Second World War, eventually some 60 U-boats of the German Kriegsmarine ended in the city's harbour at Lisahally after their surrender.[60] The initial surrender was attended by Admiral Sir Maxwell Horton, Commander-in-Chief of the Western Approaches, and Sir Basil Brooke, third Prime Minister of Northern Ireland.[59] Late 20th Century 1950's and 1960's The city languished after the second world war, with unemployment and development stagnating. The Civil Rights Movement Derry was a focal point for the nascent civil rights movement Northern Ireland. Catholics were discriminated against under Unionist government in Northern Ireland, both politically and economically.[61][62][63][64] In the late 1960s the city became the flashpoint of disputes about institutional gerrymandering. Political scientist John Whyte explains that: All the accusations of gerrymandering, practically all the complaints about housing and regional policy, and a disproportionate amount of the charges about public and private employment come from this area. The area – The Bogside area viewed from the walls which consisted of Counties Tyrone and Fermanagh, Londonderry County Borough, and portions of Counties Londonderry and Armagh - had less than a quarter of the total population of Northern Ireland yet generated not far short of three-quarters of the complaints of discrimination...The unionist government must bear its share of responsibility. It put through the original gerrymander which underpinned so many of the subsequent malpractices, and then, despite repeated protests, did nothing to stop those malpractices continuing. The most serious charge against the Northern Ireland government is not that it was directly responsible for widespread discrimination, but that it allowed discrimination on such a scale over a substantial segment of Northern Ireland.[65] Derry 197 A civil rights demonstration in 1968 led by the Northern Ireland Civil Rights Association was banned by the Government and blocked using force by the Royal Ulster Constabulary.[64] The events that followed the August 1969 Apprentice Boys parade resulted in the Battle of the Bogside, when Catholic rioters fought the police, leading to widespread civil disorder in Northern Ireland and is often dated as the starting point of the Troubles. On Sunday January 30, 1972, 13 unarmed civilians were shot dead by British paratroopers during a civil rights march in the Bogside area. Another 13 were wounded and one further man later died of his wounds. This event came to be known as Bloody Sunday. Troubles The conflict which became known as the Troubles is widely regarded as having started in Derry with the Battle of the Bogside. The Civil Rights movement had also been very active in the city. In the early 70's the city was heavily militarised and there was widespread civil unrest. Several districts in the city constructed barricades to control access and prevent the forces of the state from entering. Violence eased towards the end of the Troubles in the late 1980s and early 1990s. Irish journalist Ed Maloney claims in "The Secret History of the IRA" that republican leaders there negotiated a de facto ceasefire in the city as early as 1991. Whether this is true or not, the city did see less bloodshed by this time than Belfast or other localities. The "Free Derry" sign in the Bogside: "You are now entering Free Derry" The city was visited by a killer whale in November 1977 at the height of the Troubles; it was dubbed Dopey Dick by the thousands who came from miles around to see him.[66] Governance The local district council is Derry City Council, which consists of five electoral areas: Cityside, Northland, Rural, Shantallow and Waterside. The council of 30 members is re-elected every four years. As of the 2011 election, 14 Social Democratic and Labour Party (SDLP) members, ten Sinn Féin, five Democratic Unionist Party (DUP), and one Ulster Unionist Party (UUP) make up the council. The mayor and deputy mayor are elected annually by councillors. The local authority boundaries correspond to the Foyle constituency of the Parliament of the United Kingdom and the Foyle constituency of the Northern Ireland Assembly. In European Parliament elections, it is part of the Northern Ireland constituency. Derry Coat of arms and motto The devices on the city's arms are a skeleton and a three-towered castle on a black field, with the chief or top third of the shield depicting the arms of the City of London: a red cross and sword on white. In the centre of the cross is a gold harp. The blazon of the arms is as follows: Sable, a human skeleton Or seated upon a mossy stone proper and in dexter chief a castle triple towered argent on a chief also argent a cross gules thereon a harp or and in the first quarter a sword erect gules[67] According to documents in the College of Arms in London and the Office of the Chief Herald of Ireland in Dublin, the arms of the city were confirmed in 1613 by Daniel Molyneux, Ulster King of Arms.[45] The College of Arms document Derry's coat of arms states that the original arms of the City of Derry were ye picture of death (or a skeleton) on a moissy stone & in ye dexter point a castle and that upon grant of a charter of incorporation and the renaming of the city as Londonderry in that year the first mayor had requested the addition of a "chief of London".[68][69] Theories have been advanced as to the meaning of the "old" arms of Derry, before the addition of the chief bearing the arms of the City of London: • A suggestion has been made that the castle is related to an early 14th century castle in nearby Greencastle belonging to the Anglo-Norman Earl of Ulster Richard de Burgh.[45] • The most popular theory about the skeleton is that it is that of a Norman De Burgh knight who was starved to death in the castle dungeons in 1332 on the orders of his cousin the above mentioned Earl of Ulster.[45] Another explanation put forward was that it depicted Cahir O'Doherty (Sir Charles O'Dogherty), who was put to death after Derry was invested by the English army in 1608. During the days of Gerrymandering and discrimination against the Catholic population of Derry, Derry's Roman Catholics often used to claim in dark wit that the skeleton was a local waiting for help from the council bureaucracy.[45] In 1979, Londonderry City Council, as it was then known, commissioned a report into the city's arms and insignia, as part of the design process for an heraldic badge. The published report found that there was no basis for any of the popular explanations for the skeleton and that it was "purely symbolic and does not refer to any identifiable person".[70] The 1613 records of the arms depicted a harp in the centre of the cross, but this was omitted from later depictions of the city arms, and in the Letters Patent confirming the arms to Londonderry Corporation in 1952.[71] In 2002 Derry City Council applied to the College of Arms to have the harp restored to the city arms, and Garter and Norroy & Ulster Kings of Arms accepted the 17th century evidence, issuing letters patent to that effect in 2003.[67] The motto attached to the coat of arms reads in Latin, "Vita, Veritas, Victoria". This translates into English as, "Life, Truth, Victory".[45] 198 Derry 199 Geography Derry is characterised by its distinctively hilly topography.[72] The River Foyle forms a deep valley as it flows through the city, making Derry a place of very steep streets and sudden, startling views. The original walled city of Londonderry lies on a hill on the west bank of the River Foyle. In the past, the river branched and enclosed this wooded hill as an island; over the centuries, however, the western branch of the river dried up and became a low-lying and boggy district that is now called the Bogside.[73] Today, modern Derry extends considerably north and west of the city walls and east of the river. The half of the city the west of the Foyle is known as the Cityside and the area east is called the Waterside. The Cityside and Waterside are connected by the Craigavon Bridge and Foyle Bridge, and by a foot bridge in the centre of the city called Peace Bridge. The district also extends into rural areas to the southeast of the city. This much larger city, however, remains characterised by the often extremely steep hills that form much of its terrain on both sides of the river. A notable exception to this lies on the north-eastern edge of the city, on the shores of Lough Foyle, where large expanses of sea and mudflats were reclaimed in the middle of the 19th century. Today, these slob lands are protected from the sea by miles of sea walls and dikes. The area is an internationally important bird sanctuary, ranked among the top 30 wetland sites in the UK.[74] OpenstreetMap mapping The Craigavon Bridge. Other important nature reserves lie at Ness Country Park,[75] 10 miles (unknown operator: u'strong' km) east of Derry; and at Prehen Wood,[76] within the city's south-eastern suburbs. Climate Derry has, like most of Ireland, a temperate maritime climate[77] according to the Köppen climate classification system. The nearest official Met Office Weather Station for which climate data is available is Carmoney,[78] just west of City of Derry Airport and about 5 miles north east of the city centre. However, observations ceased in 2004 and the nearest Weather Station is currently Ballykelly, due 12 miles east north east.[79] Typically, 27.6 nights of the year will report an air frost at Carmoney, and at least 1mm of precipitation will be reported on 181.4 days (1971-2000 averages). The lowest temperature recorded at Carmoney was −11 °C (unknown operator: u'strong' °F) on the 27th December 1995.[80] Derry 200 Climate data for Carmoney 76m asl 1971-2000, (Weather station 5 miles (unknown operator: u'strong' km) NE of Derry) Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Year Average high °C (°F) 7.0 7.3 8.9 11.1 13.9 16.0 17.8 17.7 15.5 12.4 9.3 7.7 12.1 Average low °C (°F) 1.8 1.7 2.8 4.2 6.4 8.9 11.0 10.9 9.0 6.8 3.9 2.7 5.9 Precipitation mm (inches) Mean monthly sunshine hours 101.5 79.1 83.5 58.8 57.9 63.9 75.3 84.1 86.1 104.3 98.5 100.0 993.0 (3.996) (3.114) (3.287) (2.315) (2.28) (2.516) (2.965) (3.311) (3.39) (4.106) (3.878) (3.937) (39.094) 36.6 59.9 85.3 140.4 179.5 145.8 128.0 133.0 111.6 81.2 48.6 29.1 1179.0 [81] Source: MetOffice Demography Derry Urban Area (DUA), including the city and the neighbouring settlements of Culmore, Newbuildings and Strathfoyle, is classified as a city by the Northern Ireland Statistics and Research Agency (NISRA) since its population exceeds 75,000. On census day (29 April 2001) there were 90,736 people living in Derry Urban Area. Of these, 27.0 percent were aged under 16 years and 13.4 percent were aged 60 and over; 48.3 percent of the population were male and 51.7 percent were female; 77.8 percent were from a Roman Catholic background and 20.8 percent were from a Protestant background; and 7.1 percent of people aged 16–74 were unemployed. Ebrington Square The mid-2006 population estimate for the wider Derry City Council area was 107,300.[13] Population growth in 2005/06 was driven by natural change, with net out-migration of approximately 100 people.[13] The city was one of the few in Ireland to experience an increase in population during the Irish Potato Famine as migrants came to it from other, more heavily affected areas.[51] Protestant minority Concerns have been raised by both communities over the increasingly divided nature of the city. It is estimated that during the course of the Troubles, as many as 15,000 Protestants moved from the city side. Fewer than 500 Protestants now live on the west bank of the River Foyle, compared to 18,000 in 1969, with most on the Fountain Estate[82] and it is feared that the city could become permanently divided.[83][84] However, concerted efforts have been made by local community, The "No Surrender" mural right outside the city church and political leaders from both traditions to redress the wall: "Londonderry west bank loyalists still under siege no surrender" problem. A conference to bring together key actors and promote [85] tolerance was held in October 2006. The Rt Rev. Dr Ken Good, the Church of Ireland Bishop of Derry and Raphoe, said he was happy living on the cityside. "I feel part of it. It is my city and I want to encourage other Protestants to feel exactly the same", he said.[85] Derry 201 Support for Protestants in the district has been strong from the former SDLP city Mayor Helen Quigley. Cllr Quigley has made inclusion and tolerance key themes of her mayoralty. The Mayor Helen Quigley said it is time for "everyone to take a stand to stop the scourge of sectarian and other assaults in the city."[86] Economy History The economy of the district was based significantly on the textile industry until relatively recently. For many years women were often the sole wage earners working in the shirt factories while the men predominantly in comparison had high levels of unemployment.[87] This led to significant male emigration.[88] The history of shirt making in the city dates back as far as 1831 and is said to have been started by William Scott and his family who first exported shirts to Glasgow.[89] Du Pont production facility, 2007, Maydown Within 50 years, shirt making in the city was the most prolific in the UK with garments being exported all over the world. It was known so well that the industry received a mention in Das Kapital by Karl Marx, when discussing the factory system: The shirt factory of Messrs. Tille at Londonderry, which employs 1,000 operatives in the factory itself, and 9,000 people spread up and down the country and working in their own houses.[90] The industry reached its peak in the 1920s employing around 18,000 people.[45] In modern times however the textile industry declined due to in most part cheaper Asian wages.[91] A long-term foreign employer in the area is Du Pont, which has been based at Maydown since 1958, its first European production facility.[92] Originally Neoprene was manufactured at Maydown and subsequently followed by Hypalon. More recently Lycra and Kevlar production units were active.[93] Thanks to a healthy worldwide demand for Kevlar which is made at the plant, the facility recently undertook a £40 million upgrade to expand its global Kevlar production. Du Pont has stated that contributing factors to its continued commitment to Maydown are "low labor costs, excellent communications, and tariff-free, easy access to the Britain and European continent." Inward investment In the last 15 years there has been a drive to increase inward investment in the city, more recently concentrating on digital industries. Currently the three largest private-sector employers are American firms.[94] Economic successes have included call centres and a large investment by Seagate, which has operated a factory in the Springtown Industrial Estate since 1993. Seagate currently employs over 1,000 people in the Springtown premises, which produce more than half of the company's total requirement for hard drive read-write heads. Seagate production facility, 2005, 1 Disc Drive, Springtown Industrial Estate A recent but controversial new employer in the area is Raytheon, Raytheon Systems Limited, was established in 1999, in the Ulster Science & Technology Park, Buncrana Road.[95] Although some of the local people welcomed the jobs boost, others in the area objected to the jobs being provided by a firm involved heavily in the arms trade.[96] Following four years of protest by the Foyle Ethical Investment Campaign, in 2004 Derry City Council passed a motion declaring the district a "A 'No – Go' Area for the Arms Trade".[97] In 2009, the company announced that it was not renewing its lease when it expired in 2010 and was looking for a new location for its operations.[98] Derry 202 Significant multinational employers in the region include Firstsource of India, DuPont, INVISTA, Stream International, Seagate Technology, Perfecseal, NTL, Raytheon and Northbrook Technology of the United States, Arntz Belting and Invision Software of Germany, and Homeloan Management of the UK. Major local business employers include Desmonds, Northern Ireland's largest privately-owned company, manufacturing and sourcing garments, E&I Engineering, St. Brendan's Irish Cream Liqueur and McCambridge Duffy, one of the largest insolvency practices in the UK.[99] Even though the city provides cheap labour by standards in Western Europe, critics have noted that the grants offered by the Northern Ireland Industrial Development Board have helped land jobs for the area that only last as long as the funding lasts.[100] This was reflected in questions to the Parliamentary Under-Secretary of State for Northern Ireland, Richard Needham, in 1990.[101] It was noted that it cost £30,000 to create one job in an American firm in Northern Ireland. Critics of investment decisions affecting the district often point to the decision to build a new university building in nearby (predominately Protestant) Coleraine rather than developing the University of Ulster Magee Campus. Another major government decision affecting the city was the decision to create the new town of Craigavon outside Belfast, which again was detrimental to the development of the city. Even in October 2005, there was perceived bias against the comparatively impoverished North West of the province, with a major civil service job contract going to Belfast. Mark Durkan, the Social Democratic and Labour Party (SDLP) leader and Member of Parliament (MP) for Foyle was quoted in the Belfast Telegraph as saying: The fact is there has been consistent under-investment in the North West and a reluctance on the part of the Civil Service to see or support anything west of the Bann, except when it comes to rate increases, then they treat us equally. In July 2005, the Irish Minister for Finance, Brian Cowen, called for a joint task force to drive economic growth in the cross border region. This would have implications for Counties Londonderry, Tyrone, and Donegal across the border. Shopping The city is the north west's foremost shopping district, housing two large shopping centres along with numerous shop packed streets serving much of the greater county, as well as Tyrone and Donegal. While retail developments in Letterkenny have lessened cross-border traffic from north County Donegal, the weakness of the pound sterling over the course of 2009 made border towns such as Derry attractive to shoppers from south of the border.[102][103] The city centre has two main shopping centres; the Foyleside Shopping Centre which has 45 stores and 1430 parking spaces, and the Richmond Centre, which has 39 retail units. The Quayside Shopping Centre also serves the city-side and there is also Lisnagelvin Shopping Centre in the Waterside. These centres, as well as local-run businesses, feature numerous national and international stores. Austins department store A recent addition was the Crescent Link Retail Park located in the Waterside with many international chain stores, including Homebase, Currys, Carpet Right, PC World, Argos Extra, Toys R Us, Halfords, DW Sports (formerly JJB Sports), Pets at Home, Tesco Express and M&S Simply Food . In the short space of time that this site has been operational, it has quickly grown to become the second largest retail park in Northern Ireland (second only to Sprucefield in Lisburn).[104] The city is also home to the world's oldest independent department store; Austins. Established in 1830, Austins predates Jenners of Edinburgh by 5 years, Harrods of London by 15 years and Macy's of New York by 25 years.[105] The store's five-story Edwardian building is located within the walled city in the area known as The Diamond. Derry 203 Landmarks Derry is renowned for its architecture. This can be primarily ascribed to the formal planning of the historic walled city of Derry at the core of the modern city. This is centred on the Diamond with a collection of late Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian buildings maintaining the gridlines of the main thoroughfares (Shipquay Street, Ferryquay Street, Butcher Street and Bishop Street) to the City Gates. St Columb's Cathedral does not follow the grid pattern reinforcing its civic status. This Church of Ireland Cathedral was the first post-Reformation Cathedral built for an Anglican church. The construction of the Roman Catholic St Eugene's Cathedral in the Bogside in the 19th-century was another major architectural addition to the city. The more recent infill buildings within the walls are of varying quality and in many cases these were low quality hurriedly constructed replacements for 1970s bomb damaged buildings. The Townscape Heritage Initiative has funded restoration works to key listed buildings and other older structures. In the three centuries since their construction, the city walls have been adapted to meet the needs of a changing city. The best example of this adaptation is the insertion of three additional gates — Castle Gate, New Gate and Magazine Gate — into the walls in the course of the 19th century. Today, the fortifications form a continuous promenade around the city centre, complete with cannon, avenues of mature trees and views across Derry. Historic buildings within the city walls include St Augustine's Church, which sits on the city walls close to the site of the original monastic settlement; the copper-domed Austin's department store, which claims to the oldest such store in the world; and the imposing Greek Revival Courthouse on Bishop Street. The red-brick late-Victorian Guildhall, also crowned by a copper dome, stands just beyond Shipquay Gate and close to the river front. St Eugene's Cathedral Bishop Street Courthouse Long Tower Church There are many museums and sites of interest in and around the city, including the Foyle Valley Railway Centre, the Amelia Earhart Centre And Wildlife Sanctuary, the Apprentice Boys Memorial Hall, Ballyoan Cemetery, The Bogside, numerous murals by the Bogside Artists, Derry Craft Village, Free Derry Corner, O'Doherty Tower (now home to part of the Tower Museum), the Guildhall, the Harbour Museum, the Museum of Free Derry, Chapter House Museum, the Workhouse Museum, the Nerve Centre, St. Columb's Park and Leisure Centre, St Eugene's Cathedral, Creggan Country Park, The Millennium Forum and the Foyle and Craigavon bridges. Future projects include the Walled City Signature Project, which intends to ensure that the city's walls become a world class tourist experience.[106] The city has seen a large boost to its economy in the form of tourism over the last few years. Cheap flights offered by budget airlines have enticed many people to visit the city. Tourism mainly focuses around the pubs, mainly those of Waterloo Street. Other attractions include museums, a vibrant shopping centre and trips to the Giant's Causeway, which is approximately 50 miles (unknown operator: u'strong' km) away. Derry 204 Transport The transport network is built out of a complex array of old and modern roads and railways throughout the city and county. The city's road network also makes use of two bridges to cross the River Foyle, the Craigavon Bridge and the Foyle Bridge, the longest bridge in Ireland. Derry also serves as a major transport hub for travel throughout nearby County Donegal. The Foyle Bridge showing Derry to Belfast rail link In spite of it being the second city of Northern Ireland (and it being the second-largest city in all of Ulster), road and rail links to other cities are below par for its standing. Many business leaders claim that government investment in the city and infrastructure has been badly lacking. Some have stated that this is due to its outlying border location whilst others have cited a sectarian bias against the region west of the River Bann due to its high proportion of Catholics.[107][108] There is no direct motorway link with Dublin or Belfast. The rail link to Belfast has been downgraded over the years so that presently it is not a viable alternative to the roads for industry to rely on. There are currently plans for £1 billion worth of transport infrastructure investment in and around the district.[109] Buses Most public transport in Northern Ireland is operated by the subsidiaries of Translink. Originally the city's internal bus network was run by Ulsterbus, which still provides the city's connections with other towns in Northern Ireland. The city's buses are now run by Ulsterbus Foyle,[110] just as Translink Metro now provides the bus service in Belfast. The Ulsterbus Foyle network offers 13 routes across the city into the suburban areas, excluding an Easibus link which connects to the Waterside and Drumahoe,[111] and a free Rail Link Bus runs from the Waterside Railway Station to the city centre. All buses leave from the Foyle Street Bus Station in the city centre. Long distance buses depart from Foyle Street Bus Station to destinations throughout Ireland. Buses are operated by both Ulsterbus and Bus Éireann on cross-border routes and also by Lough Swilly buses to Co. Donegal. There is a half-hourly service to Belfast every day, called the Maiden City Flyer, which is the Goldline Express flagship route. There are hourly services to Strabane, Omagh, Coleraine, Letterkenny and Buncrana, and eleven services a day to bring people to Dublin. There is a daily service to Sligo, Galway, Shannon Airport and Limerick. Air City of Derry Airport, the council-owned airport near Eglinton, has been growing in recent years with new investment in extending the runway and plans to redevelop the terminal.[112] It is hoped that the new investment will add to the airport's currently limited array of domestic and international flights and reduce the annual subsidy of £3.5 million from the local council. Work has commenced to turn the A2 from Maydown to Eglinton and in turn the airport into a dual carriageway, with completion estimated by November 2010.[113] City of Derry airport is the main regional airport for County Donegal, County Londonderry and west County Tyrone as well as Derry City itself. The airport is served by Aer Arann, Flybe and Ryanair with scheduled flights to Birmingham International Airport, Dublin,[114] Glasgow Prestwick Airport, Liverpool, London Stansted, Manchester and Tenerife South all year round with a summer schedule to Alicante, Faro as well as summer charter flights to Majorca and Barcelona in Spain. Derry 205 Railways Northern Ireland Railways (N.I.R.) has a single route from Londonderry railway station (also known as Waterside Station) on the Waterside to Belfast Central and Belfast Great Victoria Street via Coleraine, Ballymoney, Ballymena, Antrim and Mossley West. The service, which had been allowed to deteriorate in the 1990s, has since been improved by increased investment. In 2008 the Department for Regional Development announced a plan to have the track re-laid between Derry and Coleraine by 2013, add a passing loop to increase traffic capacity and increase the number of trains by introducing two additional diesel multiple units.[115] The £86 million plan will reduce the journey time to Belfast by 30 minutes and allow commuter trains to arrive before 9 a.m. for the first time.[115] Many still do not use the train, because, at over two hours, it is slower centre-to-centre than the 100-minute Ulsterbus Goldline Express service.[116] Railway history Throughout the first half of the 20th century the city was served by four different railways that between them linked the city with much of the province of Ulster, plus a harbour railway network that linked the other four lines. There was also a tramway on the City side of the Foyle. 19th and 20th century growth Derry's first railway was the Irish gauge (5 ft 3 in (1600 mm)) Londonderry and Enniskillen Railway (L&ER). Construction began in 1845 from a temporary station at Cow Market on the City side of the Foyle, reached Strabane in 1847[117] and was extended from Cow Market to its permanent terminus at Foyle Road in 1850.[118] The L&ER reached Omagh in 1852 and Enniskillen in 1854,[118] and was absorbed into the Great Northern Railway (Ireland) in 1883.[119] The Londonderry and Coleraine Railway (L&CR), also Irish gauge, reached the city in 1852 and opened its terminus at Waterside.[118] The Belfast and Northern Counties Railway leased the line from 1861 and took it over in 1871. Ireland's railway network in 1906 The Londonderry and Lough Swilly Railway opened between Farland Point on Lough Swilly and a temporary terminus at Pennyburn in 1863.[118] In 1866 it extended from Pennyburn to its permanent terminus at Graving Dock.[118] The L&LSR was Irish gauge until 1885, when it was converted to 3 ft (914 mm) narrow gauge for through running with the Letterkenny Railway. The Londonderry Port and Harbour Commissioners (LPHC) linked Graving Dock and Foyle Road stations with a railway through Middle Quay in 1867, and linked this line with Waterside station by a railway over the new Carlisle Bridge in 1868.[118] The bridge was replaced in 1933 with the double-deck Craigavon Bridge, with the LPHC railway on its lower deck. In 1900 the 3 ft (914 mm) gauge Donegal Railway extended from Strabane to Derry, establishing a terminus at Victoria Road. This was next to Carlisle Bridge and had a junction with the LPHC railway.[118] The LPHC line was altered to dual gauge which allowed 3 ft (914 mm) gauge traffic between the Donegal Railway and L&LSR as well as Irish gauge traffic between the GNR and B&NCR. In 1906 the Northern Counties Committee (NCC, successor to the B&NCR) and the GNR jointly took over the Donegal Railway, making it the County Donegal Railways Joint Committee (CDRJC). Derry The United Kingdom Government subsidised both the L&LSR and the Donegal Railway to build long extensions into remote parts of County Donegal. By 1905 these served much of the county,[120] making Derry (and also Strabane) a key rail hub for the county. The City of Derry Tramways was opened in 1897.[121] This was a standard gauge (4 ft 8 1⁄2 in (1435 mm)) line served by horse trams and was never electrified.[121] The tramway had only one line, was 1.5 miles (unknown operator: u'strong' km) long, and ran along the City side of the Foyle parallel to the LPHC's line on that side of the river.[122] It was closed in 1919.[121] 20th century decline The partition of Ireland in 1922 turned the boundary with County Donegal into an international frontier. This changed trade patterns to the railways' detriment and placed border posts on every line to and from Derry except the NCC route to Coleraine.[117] The L&LSR crossed the border between Pennyburn and Bridge End, the CDRJC crossed just beyond Strabane, and the GNR line crossed twice between Derry and Strabane.[117] Stops for customs inspections greatly delayed trains and disrupted timekeeping. Over the next few years customs agreements between the two states enabled GNR trains to and from Derry to pass through the Free State without inspection unless they were scheduled to serve local stations on the west bank of the Foyle, and for goods on all railways to be carried between different parts of the Free State to pass through Northern Ireland under customs bond. However, local passenger and goods traffic continued to be delayed by customs examinations. In the 1920s and 30s and again after the Second World War the railways also faced increasing road competition. The L&LSR closed its line in 1953, followed by the CDRJC in 1954.[123] The Ulster Transport Authority took over the NCC in 1949 and the GNR's lines in Northern Ireland in 1958. The UTA also took over the LPHC railway, which it closed in 1962.[124] In accordance with The Benson Report submitted to the Northern Ireland Government in 1963, the UTA closed the former GNR line to Derry in 1965.[123][124][125] Since 1965 the former L&CR line has been Derry's sole railway link. As such it has carried not only passenger services between Derry and Belfast but also CIÉ freight services using Derry as a railhead for Donegal. Road network The road network has historically seen under-investment and has lacked good road connections to both Belfast and Dublin for many years. Long overdue, the largest road investment in the north west's history is now (2010) taking place with building of the 'A2 Broadbridge Maydown to City of Derry Airport dualling' project[126] and announcement of the 'A6 Londonderry to Dungiven Dualling Scheme'[127] which will help to reduce the travel time to Belfast.[128] The latter project brings a dual-carriageway link between Northern Ireland's two largest cities one step closer. The project is costing £320 million and is expected to be completed in 2016. In October 2006 the Government of Ireland announced that it was to invest €1 billion in Northern Ireland;[129] and one of the planned projects will be 'The A5 Western Transport Corridor',[130] the complete upgrade of the A5 Derry – Omagh – Aughnacloy (– Dublin) road, around 90 kilometres (unknown operator: u'strong' miles) long, to dual carriageway standard.[131] It is not yet known if these two separate projects will connect at any point, although there have been calls for some form of connection between the two routes. In June 2008 Conor Murphy, Minister for Regional Development, announced that there will be a study into the feasibility of connecting the A5 and A6.[109] Should it proceed, the scheme would most likely run from Drumahoe to south of Prehen along the south east of the City.[115] 206 Derry 207 Sea Londonderry Port at Lisahally is the United Kingdom's most westerly port and has capacity for 30,000-ton vessels. The Londonderry Port and Harbour Commissioners (LPHC) announced record turnover, record profits and record tonnage figures for the year ended March 2008. The figures are the result of a significant capital expenditure programme for the period 2000 to 2007 of about £22 million. Tonnage handled by LPHC increased almost 65% between 2000 and 2007, according to the latest annual results. The port gave vital Allied service in the longest running campaign of the Second World War, the Battle of the Atlantic, and saw the surrender of the German U-Boat fleet at Lisahally on 8 May 1945.[132] Inland Waterways A mass of surrendered German U-boats at their mooring at Lisahally The tidal River Foyle is navigable from the coast at Derry to approximately 10 miles inland. In 1796, the Strabane Canal was opened, continuing the navigation a further 4 miles southwards to Strabane. The canal was closed in 1962. Education Derry is home to the Magee Campus of the University of Ulster, formerly Magee College. However Lockwood's [133] 1960s decision to locate Northern Ireland's second university in Coleraine rather than Derry helped contribute to the formation of the civil rights movement that ultimately led to The Troubles. Derry was the town more closely associated with higher learning, with Magee College already more than a century old by that time.[134][135] In the mid-1980s a half-hearted attempt was made at rectifying this mistake by forming Magee College as a campus of the University of Ulster but this has failed to stifle calls for the establishment of an independent University in Derry that can grow to it full potential.[136] The campus has never thrived and currently only has 3,500 students out of a total University of Ulster student population of 27,000. Ironically, although Coleraine is blamed by many in the city for 'stealing the University', it has only 5,000 students, the remaining 19,000 being based in Belfast.[137] Magee College became a campus of the University of Ulster in 1969 The North West Regional College is also based in the city. In recent years it has grown to almost 30,000 students.[138] One of the two oldest secondary schools in Northern Ireland is located in Derry, Foyle and Londonderry College. It was founded in 1616 by the merchant taylors and remains a popular choice. Other secondary schools include St. Columb's College, Oakgrove Integrated College, St Cecilia's College, St Mary's College, St. Joseph's Boys' School, Lisneal College, Thornhill College, Lumen Christi College and St. Brigid's College. There are also numerous primary schools. Derry 208 Sports The city is home to sports clubs and teams. Both association football and Gaelic football are popular in the area. In association football, the city's most prominent clubs include Derry City who play in the national league of the Republic of Ireland; Institute and Oxford United Stars, of the Irish League. In addition to the Derry City, Institute and Oxford United Stars, who all play in national leagues, other clubs are based in The Derry GAA team ahead of the 2009 National the city. The local football league is the Derry and District League and League final. teams from the city and surrounding areas participate, including Lincoln Courts, Don Boscos, and Trojans; also North West teams like BBOB (Boys Brigade Old Boys). The Foyle Cup youth soccer tournament is held annually in the city. It has attracted many notable teams in the past, including Werder Bremen, IFK Göteborg and Ferencváros. In Gaelic football Derry GAA are the county team and play in the Gaelic Athletic Association's National Football League, Ulster Senior Football Championship and All-Ireland Senior Football Championship. They also field hurling teams in the equivalent tournaments. There are many Gaelic games clubs in and around the city, for example Na Magha CLG, Steelstown GAC, Doire Colmcille CLG, Seán Dolans GAC, Na Piarsaigh CLG Doire Trasna and Slaughtmanus GAC. There are many boxing clubs, the most well-known being The Ring Boxing Club, which is associated with Charlie Nash[139] and John Duddy,[140] amongst others. Derry City taking on Paris Saint-Germain at the Brandywell Stadium during the 2006 UEFA Cup Rugby Union is also quite popular in the city, with the City of Derry Rugby Club situated not far from the city centre.[141] City of Derry won both the Ulster Towns Cup and the Ulster Junior Cup in 2009. Londonderry YMCA RFC is another rugby club and is based in Drumahoe which is just outside the city. The city's only basketball club is North Star Basketball Club which has teams in the Basketball Northern Ireland senior and junior Leagues.[142] Cricket is also a popular sport in the city, particularly in the Waterside. The city is home to two cricket clubs, Brigade Cricket Club and Glendermott Cricket Club, both of whom play in the North West Senior League. Golf is also a sport which is popular with many in the City. There are two golf clubs situated in the city, City of Derry Golf Club and Foyle International Golf Centre. Derry Culture In recent years the city and surrounding countryside have become well known for their artistic legacy, producing Nobel Prize-winning poet Seamus Heaney,[143] poet Seamus Deane, playwright Brian Friel,[144] writer and music critic Nik Cohn, artist Willie Doherty, socio-political commentator and activist Eamonn McCann[145] and bands such as The Undertones. The large political gable-wall murals of Bogside Artists, Free Derry Corner, the Foyle Film Festival, the Derry Walls, St Eugene's and St Columb's Cathedrals and the annual Halloween street carnival[146] are popular tourist attractions. In 2010, Derry was named the UK's tenth 'most musical' City by PRS for Music.[147][147] Media The local papers the Derry Journal (known as the Londonderry Journal until 1880) and the Londonderry Sentinel reflect the divided history of the city: the Journal was founded in 1772 and is Ireland's 'Hands Across the Divide' sculpture, by Maurice Harron second oldest newspaper;[45] the Sentinel newspaper was formed in 1829 when new owners of the Journal embraced Catholic Emancipation, and the editor left the paper to set up the Sentinel. There are numerous radio stations receivable: the largest stations based in the city are BBC Radio Foyle[148] and the commercial station Q102.9.[149] There is a locally based television station, C9TV, which is one of only two local or 'restricted' television services in Northern Ireland. Night-life The city's night-life is mainly centred on the weekend, with several bars and clubs providing "student nights" during the weekdays. Waterloo Street and the Strand Road are central to the City's nightlife. Waterloo Street is a steep street lined with various pubs, both Irish traditional and modern. Live rock and traditional music can frequently be heard emanating from the pub-doors and windows whilst walking up or down the street at night. The city is renowned for producing talented musicians and many bands perform in venues around the city, for example the Smalltown America duo, Fighting with Wire and Jetplane Landing. Numerous other young local and indeed international bands perform at the Nerve Centre. Events • The "Banks of the Foyle Hallowe’en Carnival" (known in Irish as Féile na Samhna) in Derry are a huge tourism boost for the city. The carnival is promoted as being the first and longest running Halloween carnival in the whole of Ireland,[150][151] It is called the largest street party in Ireland by the Derry Visitor and Convention Bureau with more than 30,000 ghoulish revellers taking to the streets annually.[152] • In March, the city hosts the Big Tickle Comedy Festival, which in 2006 featured Dara Ó Briain and Colin Murphy. In April the city plays host to the City Of Derry Jazz And Big Band Festival and in November the Foyle Film Festival, the biggest film festival in Northern Ireland. • Every summer the city hosts Tomo-Dachi, Ireland's largest Anime convention, which in July 2006 was held at Magee College, University of Ulster.[153] • The Siege of Derry is commemorated annually by the fraternal organisation the Apprentice Boys of Derry in the week long Maiden City Festival. • The Instinct Festival is an annual youth festival celebrating the Arts. It is held around Easter and has proven a success in recent years. 209 Derry 210 • Celtronic is a major annual electronic dance festival held at venues all around the city. The 2007 Festival featured the DJ, Erol Alkan. • The Millennium Forum is the main theatre in the city, it holds numerous shows weekly. • On 9 December 2007 Derry entered the Guinness Book of Records when 13000 Santas gathered to break the world record beating previous records held by Liverpool and Las Vegas.[154] • Winner of the 2005 Britain in Bloom competition (City category). Runner-up 2009. References in popular music I was born in Londonderry I was born in Derry City too Oh what a special child To see such things and still to smile I know that there was something wrong But I kept my head down and carried on. —The Divine Comedy "Sunrise" In 1803 we sailed out to sea, Out from the sweet town of Derry, For Australia bound if we did not all drown, And the marks of our fetters we carried... [155] —Bobby Sands "Back Home In Derry" It is old but it is beautiful, and its colours they are fine. It was worn at Derry, Aughrim, Enniskillen and the Boyne. My father wore it as a youth in bygone days of yore. And on the Twelfth I love to wear the sash my father wore —Anon "The Sash" ...In the early morning the shirt factory horn called women from Creggan, the Moor and the Bog. While the men on the dole played a mother's role, fed the children and then walked the dog. And when times got tough there was just about enough. But they saw it through without complaining. For deep inside was a burning pride in the town I loved so well. There was music there in the Derry air, like a language that we all could understand... [156] —Phil Coulter "The Town I Loved So Well" Notable people Notable people who were born or have lived in Derry include: • Frederick Hervey, Bishop of Derry and 4th Earl of Bristol • The Restoration dramatist George Farquhar • Authors Joyce Cary, Seamus Deane, Jennifer Johnston and Nell McCafferty • Poet and Nobel laureate Seamus Heaney • Social Democratic and Labour Party founder and Nobel Peace Prize winner John Hume • Deputy First Minister of Northern Ireland Martin McGuinness • Former Leicester City, Celtic and Aston Villa manager Martin O'Neill • Manchester United player Darron Gibson • Actresses Amanda Burton and Roma Downey • Girls Aloud member Nadine Coyle • Eurovision Song Contest winner and former politician Dana • The band The Undertones and their one-time lead singer Feargal Sharkey • • • • Jimmy McShane of Baltimora Triathlete Aileen Morrison Tom McGuinness, Gaelic footballer[157] Damian McGinty and Keith Harkin, vocalists with the group Celtic Thunder Millennium Forum, Newmarket Street Derry References [1] http:/ / www. nisra. gov. uk/ archive/ demography/ population/ small_area/ SAPE_Settlement_08. xls [2] http:/ / getamap. ordnancesurvey. co. uk/ getamap/ frames. htm?mapAction=gaz& gazName=g& gazString=C434166 [3] "PostTowns by UK Postcode Area: 2007 information" (http:/ / www. evoxfacilities. co. uk/ evoxptn. html). 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Archived from the original (http:/ / www. nisra. gov. uk/ archive/ demography/ publications/ pr_mye_2006. pdf) on 2008-06-26. . Retrieved 2008-08-28. [14] (http:/ / www. qub. ac. uk/ cibr/ WPpdffiles/ MFWPpdf/ w14_ac. pdf) [15] "Greater Derry Interactive Map" (http:/ / www. discovernorthernireland. com/ Greater-Derry-Interactive-Map-A1606). Discovernorthernireland.com. . Retrieved 2010-06-20. [16] BBC News (2010-07-15). "Londonderry named the UK City of Culture" (http:/ / www. bbc. co. uk/ news/ entertainment-arts-10653989). BBC News. . Retrieved 15 July 2010. [17] Palmer, Robert. "The race is on to find UK's first ‘City of Culture’ for 2013" (http:/ / webarchive. nationalarchives. gov. uk/ + / http:/ / www. culture. gov. uk/ reference_library/ media_releases/ 6256. aspx). The National Archives. . Retrieved 15 July 2010. 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"Ireland, home of Halloween" (http:/ / www. irishabroad. com/ news/ irishpost/ Travel/ ireland-home-halloween-051012. asp). The Irish Post. . Retrieved 2006-09-05. [153] "Magee To Host Japanese Animation Convention" (http:/ / news. ulster. ac. uk/ releases/ 2005/ 1976. html). news.ulster.ac.uk. 2005-12-07. . Retrieved 2006-09-05. [154] "Santa record bid attracts 13,000" (http:/ / news. bbc. co. uk/ 1/ hi/ northern_ireland/ 7135400. stm). BBC. 2007-12-09. . Retrieved 2008-08-28. [155] "Back Home In Derry, full lyrics" (http:/ / celtic-lyrics. com/ forum/ index. php?autocom=tclc& code=lyrics& id=34). Celtic-lyrics.com. . Retrieved 2010-06-20. [156] "The Town I Loved So Well, full lyrics" (http:/ / celtic-lyrics. com/ forum/ index. php?autocom=tclc& code=lyrics& id=405). Celtic-lyrics.com. . Retrieved 2010-06-20. [157] "Ulster's 125 - Derry shortlist" (http:/ / irishnews125. blogspot. com/ 2009/ 02/ 125-derry-player-list. html). The Irish News. 10 February 2009. . Retrieved 7 April 2009. External links • Derry, City of (http://www.dmoz.org/Regional/Europe/United_Kingdom/Northern_Ireland/Londonderry/ Londonderry,_City_of/) at the Open Directory Project • Derry City Council (http://www.derrycity.gov.uk/) • Derry visitor information (http://www.visitderry.com/) • Londonderry Chamber of Commerce (http://www.londonderrychamber.co.uk/) • MSN Map (http://maps.msn.com/(oo3qg4r3h5sfzcfnviwvhs2g)/map.aspx?lats1=54.9958&lons1=-7.3074& alts1=14&regn1=2) • Google Map (https://maps.google.ie/maps?q=derry&hl=en&ll=55.003318,-7.308655&spn=0.059072,0. 110378&sll=53.401034,-8.307638&sspn=7.866021,14.128418&t=m&hnear=Londonderry,+Derry,+ 215 Derry 216 United+Kingdom&z=13) Iarnród Éireann Iarnród Éireann - Irish Rail Type private limited company by shares Industry Infrastructure & Public Transportation State Administrator Founded 1987 Headquarters Dublin, Ireland Area served Ireland Parent Coras Iompair Éireann Website Iarnrod Eireann.ie [6] Iarnród Éireann (Irish pronunciation: [ˈiəɾˠnˠɾˠoːdˠ ˈeːɾʲən̪ˠ], Irish Rail) is the national railway system operator of Ireland. Established on 2 February 1987, it is a subsidiary of Córas Iompair Éireann (CIÉ). It operates all internal intercity, commuter and freight railway services in the Republic of Ireland, and, jointly with Northern Ireland Railways, the Enterprise service between Dublin and Belfast. In 2009, Iarnród Éireann carried 38.8 million passengers,[1] down from 43.3 million in 2008.[2] As of 2012 Ireland was the only European Union state that had not implemented EU Directive 91/440 and related legislation, having derogated its obligation to split train operations and infrastructure businesses, and allow open access by private companies to the rail network. A consultation on the restructuring of the IÉ is expected to take place in 2012. The derogation ends 14 Mar 2013.[3] An Iarnród Eireann commuter train at Tara Street Station, Dublin, 2006. The Irish language text on the LED translates to "Destination: Pearse Station". Organisation At the time of its establishment Iarnród Éireann referred to itself as Irish Rail, and introduced the four rails IR logo; however, the initials "IR" (Irish Rail) were often defaced as "IRA" on signage. The company gradually brought the Irish form of its name to the fore, ultimately introducing its current IÉ corporate branding and logo in 1994. The Irish word iarnród (alternately MK4 on the Dublin–Cork railway line Iarnród Éireann rendered "bóthar iarainn") translates into English as iron road, or railway. While the name "Irish Rail" was dropped from the logo, it remains part of the official company name ("Iarnród Éireann - Irish Rail") and was revived as the name of the company's online booking service, irishrail.ie, in 2006. Operationally, services are divided across four regional areas: • Northern and Eastern services are managed from Connolly (including Sligo in the North-West) • Southern and Western services are managed from Heuston Services Passenger services IÉ's passenger services are branded under three main names; InterCity, Commuter and DART. Intercity InterCity services are long-distance routes radiating mainly from Dublin. The Belfast - Dublin service, jointly operated with Northern Ireland Railways, is branded separately as Enterprise. Dublin's two main InterCity stations are Connolly and Heuston. Intercity services run to/from County Cork, County Limerick, County Kerry, County Clare, County Galway, County Waterford, Rosslare Europort, County Sligo, Westport, County Wexford and Ballina. Dublin's third major station, Pearse, is the terminus for much of the suburban network in the Greater Dublin area. An additional InterCity service runs from Limerick to Waterford although this is currently operated by Commuter railcars. This service formerly operated through to Rosslare Europort but services between Waterford and Rosslare Europort ceased after the last train on 18th September, 2010. Bus Éireann's existing route 370 had its routeings and timetables revised to offer replacement transport.[4] A new service began on 31 March 2010 from County Limerick to County Galway, as part of the Western Rail Corridor, a reopening of a long-closed line. A January 2012 national newspaper article suggested that Irish Rail was expected to seek permission in the near future from the National Transport Authority to close the line.[5] Commuter The majority of Commuter services are based in Dublin, which has four commuter routes: Northern (Dundalk), Western (Maynooth/Longford), South Western (Newbridge/Kildare/Portlaoise) and South Eastern (Arklow). See Dublin Suburban Rail for more details. The Cork Suburban Rail currently has three Commuter services: to Mallow and Cobh, and a third service to Midleton which became operational on a part of the disused Youghal branch line on 30 July 2009.[6] Limerick Suburban Rail currently consists of two lines to Ennis and Nenagh, with shuttle services to Limerick Junction. A Commuter service operates between Galway to Oranmore and Athenry. Commuter trains also operate on shuttle duty for branches from the main InterCity services from Mallow to Tralee (off the Dublin - Cork route) and from Manulla Junction to Ballina (off the Dublin - Westport route), as well as acting as InterCity trains for Dublin - Rosslare and some Dublin - Sligo services, and as the aforementioned Limerick - Rosslare Europort service. 217 Iarnród Éireann DART The north-south route along Dublin's eastern coastal side is also host to DART, Ireland's only electrified heavy-rail service. The Dart consists of many classes, the most famous one being the 8100 class which still operate, now refurbished. Freight services IÉ also has responsibility for running freight services on the Irish network through its Iarnród Éireann Freight division - although this has been declining at a rapid rate, and as of 2010 there are only 4x freight flows left running throughout the country. This operates both railfreight trains, and a network of road haulage through various distribution nodes throughout the country. Iarnród Éireann Freight is subdivided into four sections: • Bulk Freight - specialises in operating full train loads of freight, usually bulk movements of single products such as cement, mineral ore or timber. • Navigator - the freight forwarding division, particularly associated with the transport of automotive stock parts. • Roadliner - the road haulage division, responsible for both its own in-house fleet and privately contracted operators. • Fastrack - the same day mail delivery service. Operational details The Enterprise route (Dublin to Belfast) is well regarded, despite occasional problems over punctuality. These problems are primarily capacity related as the route is only double track and serves both local and intermediate commuter as well as intercity traffic. Hence any delay has knock on effects. Also there is limited platform availability at Connolly station in Dublin. There is also a persistent problem with engine overloading, as Enterprise locos also supply coach power (unlike the southern and western routes, where power is provided by separate generator vans). The Cork-Dublin route is also well regarded. It was formerly the "premier line" of the Great Southern and Western Railway, one of the biggest pre-CIE operators. Rolling stock is quite good on this route, with new Mark 4 rolling stock complete with DVTs for faster turn around now in service. Class 22000 DMUs from South Korea came into service from early 2009 replacing older coaching stock on most other InterCity routes. These 183 carriages are labelled by the company as the "Greenest diesel trains in Europe".[7] The Minister for Transport, Noel Dempsey had announced recently that an additional 51 railcars have been ordered for the company. These carriages are being planned on services between Dublin, Louth and Meath. They will come into service by 2011/2012. There have been incidents on the Dublin - Sligo line, concerning delays. There have been a number of serous incidents on the Dublin - Waterford which have led to serious delays between 4 and 5 hours on a number of occasions. The maximum speed of the intercity trains on the Irish rail network is 160 km/h (100 mph). 218 Iarnród Éireann Station names Although the majority of Iarnród Éireann's stations are simply named after the towns they serve, a number of stations in major towns and cities were renamed in 1966 after leaders of the Easter Rising of 1916[8] - contrary to normal European practice where such namings are generally used only when there are two or more stations in a town or city: • • • • • • • • • • • • • Connolly Station, Dublin Heuston Station, Dublin Pearse Station, Dublin Dún Laoghaire Mallin Bray Daly Cork Kent Kilkenny MacDonagh Limerick Colbert Tralee Casement Dundalk Clarke Drogheda Mac Bride Sligo Mac Diarmada Galway Ceannt • Waterford Plunkett • Wexford O'Hanrahan Network Catering IÉ's Network Catering unit provided a trolley service of food and drink, a snack car and (on some routes) a restaurant service. It also operates a restaurant at Dún Laoghaire. According to Irish Rail's annual report [9], the unit lost €270,000 in 2004. Early in 2006, IÉ advertised for private catering contractors to take over the operation of its catering services. The service was taken over by RailGourmet in March 2007.[10] Selected list of stock used by Iarnród Éireann Intercity and Enterprise Fleet • IE 22000 Class DMU • De Dietrich Rolling stock • Mark 4 [11] Commuter Fleet • • • • • IE 2600 Class DMU IE 2700 Class DMU IE 2750 Class DMU IE 2800 Class DMU IE 29000 Class DMU [12] 219 Iarnród Éireann DART Fleet • • • • • IÉ 8100 Class EMU IE 8200 Class EMU IE 8500 Class Class EMU IE 8510 Class Class EMU IE 8520 Class Class EMU [13] References [1] Iarnród Éireann Annual Report 2009 (http:/ / www. irishrail. ie/ about_us/ pdf/ 49297 Iarnrod Eireann AR09 EN web. pdf) [2] Iarnród Éireann Annual Report 2008 (http:/ / www. irishrail. ie/ about_us/ pdf/ 47574 IE AR08 EN web. pdf) [3] Sources: • "Irish government looks at rail restructuring as derogation ends" (http:/ / www. railwaygazette. com/ nc/ news/ single-view/ view/ irish-government-looks-at-rail-restructuring-as-derogation-ends/ archiv/ 2012/ 03. html), www.railwaygazette.com (Railway Gazette International), 14 Mar 2012, • "Changes to Irish Rail on way as Ireland gives up EU exemption" (http:/ / www. thejournal. ie/ changes-to-irish-rail-on-way-as-ireland-gives-up-eu-exemption-383445-Mar2012/ ), www.thejornal.ie, 14 Mar 2012, [4] http:/ / www. buseireann. ie/ pdf/ 1284376415-370. pdf [5] http:/ / www. examiner. ie/ ireland/ iarnrod-eireann-may-close-rail-service-amid-falling-demand-178779. html [6] http:/ / www. irishrail. ie/ projects/ glounthaune_midleton_railway. asp [7] http:/ / search. irishrail. ie/ highlight. aspx?aid=2901210& pckid=147268114& rn=3& sp_id=252884972& lid=119287168 [8] http:/ / www. cie. ie/ about_us/ schools_and_enthusiasts. asp [9] http:/ / www. iarnrodeireann. ie/ about_us/ pdf/ IE_04_no_pics. pdf [10] http:/ / www. railgourmet. com/ 02-organise/ units/ 05-RG-ireland. asp [11] http:/ / www. irishrail. ie/ index. jsp?p=123& n=209 Irish Rail Intercity Fleet details [12] http:/ / www. irishrail. ie/ index. jsp?p=123& n=210 Irish Rail Commuter Fleet details [13] http:/ / www. irishrail. ie/ index. jsp?p=123& n=211 Irish Rail DART Fleet details External links • • • • Official site - Timetables, bookings and operations (http://www.irishrail.ie) Official site - Corporate Site (http://www.iarnrodeireann.ie) Eiretrains - Irish Railways Past & Present (http://eiretrains.com/index.htm) Irish Railway Technology and Information -reporting on all aspects of irish railways (http://groups.msn.com/ IrishRailwayTechnologyandinformation/_whatsnew.msnw) 220 Mac Diarmada railway station 221 Mac Diarmada railway station Sligo Mac Diarmada Stáisiún Sheáin Mhic Dhiarmada Sligo Mac Diarmada railway station Location Place Sligo Local authority Sligo Borough Council Operations Platforms in use 1 History 1862 Station opened 1966 Renamed as Mac Diarmada Station Iarnród Éireann - Ireland railway stations ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ Mac Diarmada station, also known as Sligo railway station, is a mainline railway station which serves the town of Sligo in County Sligo, Ireland. It is a terminal station, with two platforms. There is a passing loop at the approach to the station. It is named after Irish patriot Seán Mac Diarmada. Iarnród Éireann, Ireland's national railway operator, runs inter-city rail services between Sligo and Dublin. History The station opened on 3 December 1862,[1] when Sligo acquired rail links to Dublin, then Enniskillen and the north in 1881 and Limerick and the south in 1895. The line to Enniskillen closed in 1957 and passenger services to Limerick closed in 1963. For many years CIE kept the latter line open for freight traffic, and although it is now disused, it forms part of the Western Rail Corridor redevelopment project. Naming In 1966 Sligo railway station was renamed Mac Diarmada Station after Irish rebel Seán Mac Diarmada from County Leitrim.[2] Preceding station Collooney Following station Iarnród Éireann InterCity Dublin-Sligo Terminus Proposed Collooney Commuter Limerick-Sligo Terminus External Links • References Irish Rail Sligo Station Website (http://www.irishrail.ie/sligo) Mac Diarmada railway station 222 Dublin Connolly railway station Dublin Connolly Baile Átha Cliath Stáisiún Uí Chonghaile Dublin Connolly railway station Location Place Dublin city centre, Amiens Street Local authority Dublin City Council Operations Station code 100 Platforms in use 7 (+2 Luas) History 1844 Opened, as Amiens Street 1966 Renamed Connolly Station Iarnród Éireann - Ireland railway stations ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ Belfast to Dublin Line Legend Belfast-Larne/Derry Lines Belfast-Bangor Line River Lagan Belfast Central Botanic Dublin Connolly railway station 223 City Hospital City Junct., to Belfast Great Victoria Street Adelaide Balmoral Finaghy Dunmurry Derriaghy Lambeg Hilden Lisburn Knockmore(Closed 2005) Lisburn-Antrim Line Maze (Closed 1974) Moira Lurgan River Bann Portadown Potential line to Armagh (Closed 1957) Dublin Connolly railway station 224 Tanderagee (Closed 1965) Scarva Poyntzpass Goraghwood (Closed 1965) Craigmore Viaduct Newry Adavoyle (Closed 1933) Mt. Pleasant (Jonesborough) (Closed 1866) - border Castletown Dundalk Clarke Castlebellingham(Closed 1976) To Ardee Dromin Junction(Closed 1975) Dunleer(Closed 1984) Newfoundwell Boyne Viaduct Dublin Connolly railway station 225 Drogheda-Navan (Freight Only) Drogheda MacBride Laytown Laytown viaduct Mosney(Closed 2000) Gormanston Balbriggan Skerries Rush & Lusk Rogerstown viaduct Donabate Broadmeadow viaduct Malahide(for DART) Portmarnock Clongriffin To Howth DART Howth Junction KilbarrackDART Dublin Connolly railway station 226 RahenyDART HarmonstownDART KillesterDART Clontarf RoadDART Fairview Depot River Tolka Western Commuter (to Mullingar) & Sligo Line Docklands( Spencer Dock) The Royal Canal Dublin Connolly Luas Red Line (to Dublin Heuston and Tallaght) Loopline Bridge over the River Liffey Trans-Dublin Line Dublin Connolly, commonly called Connolly station (Irish: Stáisiún Uí Chonghaile), is one of the main railway stations in Dublin, Ireland, and is a focal point in the Irish route network. Opened in 1844 as Amiens Street Station, the ornate facade has a distinctive Italianate tower at its centre. On the north side of the River Liffey, it provides intercity and commuter services to the north, north-west and south-east. The north-south Dublin Area Rapid Transit (DART) service also passes through the station. The station offices are the headquarters of Irish Rail, Iarnród Éireann. Dublin Connolly railway station History The station opened on 29 November 1844[1] by the Dublin and Drogheda Railway Company as Dublin Station, but was renamed Amiens Street Station ten years later after the street on which it is located. Originally the station served only a single mainline to Drogheda, and in 1853 through services to Belfast commenced. In 1891, the City of Dublin Junction Railway connected the station with Westland Row Station (now Pearse Station) on the city's south side. The C of D Jctn had a separate station known as Amiens St Junction consisting of the present platforms 5, 6, and 7 (currently used by the DART) with a separate street entrance. After the amalgamation of the GNR (I) at the end of the 1950s this station became part of Amiens St and the separate entrance fell into disuse. The C of D Jctn Rly allowed services to run from Amiens St through to Westland Row to Rosslare and the south-east. Services to Sligo were transferred to Westland Row (Pearse Stn) running non-stop through the station in 1937, with the closure of Broadstone Station by CIÉ (see also MGWR). Services to Galway and Mayo also terminated at Westland Row, operating through Connolly Station after 1937, running via Mullingar and Athlone. This was discontinued in the 1970s in favour of running services from Heuston Station. During the 1960s, Sunday trains to Cork, Limerick and Waterford operated from Connolly platforms 5, 6 & 7 through the Phoenix Park tunnel to avoid the cost of opening Heuston for the limited Sunday traffic demand at that time. In 1941 the station took a direct hit from a German bomb. In 1966, the 50th anniversary of the Easter Rising, the station's name was changed to Connolly Station after Irish revolutionary and socialist James Connolly. At the same time, other main stations were renamed after patriots executed for their roles in the Rising. At the commencement of DART services in 1984, the C of D Jctn Rly entrance was refurbished and reopened for commuters. During the late 1990s, Connolly Station was completely renovated and partially rebuilt. An entirely new station hall was built, the roof over Platforms 1-4 was replaced, and a new bar/cafe and shops were installed. The former DART/Suburban station entrance (C of D Jctn Rly entrance) and the secondary station hall built with the DART (further north on Amiens St) were again closed, but a new entrance on the International Financial Services Centre side was opened. In 2004, the Luas Red Line (to Tallaght) began serving the station. As part of the preparation for this, the ramp that had been a bus terminus was demolished and replaced with a two-platform tram station connected to the main concourse by escalators and lift. Services Connolly has seven platforms; four terminal (1-4) for trains from the north, and three through - the former Amiens St Jctn station - (5-7), for trains from the south. There are three Intercity routes served: • The Enterprise service to Belfast (intermediate stops, Drogheda, Dundalk, Newry, Portadown) • Sligo Mac Diarmada (some main stops, Maynooth, Mullingar, Longford) • Rosslare Europort, via Pearse Station and the "loop line" bridge (selected stops, Arklow, Gorey, Wexford). The 16:37 departure from Connolly to Rosslare Europort offers a connection to ferries for Wales and France. Suburban services run on the same routes, as far as Drogheda, Dundalk, Maynooth and Gorey or Enniscorthy. DART uses platforms equipped with overhead wires (Platforms 5, 6, and 7). Terminal platform 4 is also electrified, although electric trains rarely use it. 227 Dublin Connolly railway station 228 Future Iarnród Éireann has proposed a major realignment of local services into the capital in order to ease the congestion at Connolly. The opening of Docklands station has provided an alternative terminus for the Western Commuter line to Mullingar. It is planned that these services will form the basis for the planned line to Dunboyne and Navan. IÉ plan to retain Docklands station as a terminus for services from Pace. Docklands will be just across the road from the proposed Spencer Dock station on the Interconnector which will divert DART services from the north away from Connolly, further increasing capacity. Connections While Connolly connects Dublin to the east coast of Ireland and to Sligo, Heuston Station serves the south and west of the country. Connolly station is connected to Heuston via the Luas tram. Rail links connect the two stations passing through a tunnel under the Phoenix Park. Passenger services seldom use this, its main purpose being the transfer of rolling stock and locomotives (the main service depot is at Inchicore, just outside Heuston). Preceding station Iarnród Éireann Drogheda MacBride Enterprise Dublin-Belfast Maynooth Intercity Dublin-Sligo Terminus Intercity Dublin-Rosslare Following station Terminus Tara Street Commuter South Eastern Commuter Howth Junction Commuter Northern Commuter Drumcondra Commuter Western Commuter (City Branch) Clontarf Road DART Trans-Dublin Tara Street Tara Street From 2015 Drumcondra DART Line 1 Tara Street Preceding station Luas Following station Terminus Red Line Busáras towards Tallaght or Saggart Disused railways Dublin Connolly railway station Great Victoria Street Great Northern Railway (Ireland) Enterprise Express 229 Terminus SailRail & Ferry Connections to Wales: Holyhead to London Euston DART to Dún Laoghaire connects with Stena Line ferries from the Ferry Terminal to Holyhead, with connecting trains along the North Wales Coast Line to Bangor (Gwynedd) railway station, Llandudno Junction, Colwyn Bay, Rhyl, Prestatyn, Chester, Crewe and stations to London Euston. SailRail is promoted as a viable alternative to air transport by using trains and ferries to reach places across the Irish [2] Sea. SailRail (http://www.sailrail.co.uk) • Holyhead can also be reached by Irish Ferries from Dublin Port, reached by walking beside the tram lines around the corner from Amiens Street into Store Street or by Luas one stop to Busáras where Dublin Bus operates a service to the Ferry Terminal, [4] or [Dublin Bus]] route 53 or to take a taxi. SailRail & Ferry Connections to West/South Wales and France via rail to Rosslare Europort ITrains from Connolly to Rosslare Europort connect with the evening ferry to Fishguard Harbour with through ticketing to places including Carmarthen, Llanelli [5] [6] and Swansea. Irish Ferries and Celtic Link Ferries operate ferries from Rosslare Europort to Cherbourg in France. There is also a seasonal route to Roscoff operated by Irish [7] [8] Ferries. Gallery External links • • Irish Rail Dublin Connolly Station Website (http://www.irishrail.ie/Dublin (Connolly)) Luas Connolly Stop information (http://www.luas.ie/connolly.html) References • • Main Hall Johnson, S. (1997). Johnson's Atlas & Gazetteer of the Railways of Ireland, Midland Publishing Ltd. ISBN 1-85780-044-3. O'Connor, K. (1999). The Great Northern Railway in Ironing the Land, The Coming of the Railways to Ireland, pp. 23-45. Gill & Macmillan Ltd. ISBN 0-7171-2747-8. (see also RTÉ TV series of same title) DART and Commuter trains at Dublin Connolly station The Luas tram stop Enniskillen 230 Enniskillen Enniskillen Scots: Inniskillin[1] Irish: Inis Ceithleann Enniskillen from the air (2005) Enniskillen Enniskillen shown within Northern Ireland Population Expression error: "13,599" must be numericTemplate:Infobox UK place/trap(2001 Census) Irish grid reference H240440 [2] - Belfast 88 miles (unknown operator: u'strong' km) District Fermanagh County County Fermanagh Country Northern Ireland Sovereign state United Kingdom Post town ENNISKILLEN Postcode district Dialling code BT74, BT92-94 028 Police Northern Ireland Fire Northern Ireland Ambulance Northern Ireland EU Parliament Northern Ireland NI Assembly Website Fermanagh and South Tyrone www.enniskillen.com [3] Enniskillen Enniskillen (/ˌɛnɪsˈkɪlən/, from Irish: Inis Ceithleann meaning "Ceithlenn's island" [ˈɪnʲɪʃ ˈcɛlʲən̪ˠ]) is a town in County Fermanagh, Northern Ireland. It is located almost exactly in the centre of the county between the Upper and Lower sections of Lough Erne. It had a population of 13,599 in the 2001 Census. It is the seat of local government for Fermanagh District Council, and is also the county town of Fermanagh as well as its largest town. History The town's name comes from the Irish: Inis Ceithleann. This refers to Cethlenn, a figure in Irish mythology who may have been a goddess. It has been said that Ceithlenn got wounded in battle by an arrow and attempted to swim across the river but she never reached the other side. It has been anglicised many ways over the centuries — Iniskellen, Iniskellin, Iniskillin, Iniskillen, Inishkellen, Inishkellin, Inishkillin, Inishkillen, and so on.[4] The town's oldest building is the Maguire's stone castle, built by Hugh the Hospitable who died in 1428.[5] An earthwork, the Skonce on the lough shore, may be the remains of an earlier motte. The castle was the stronghold of the junior branch of the Maguires.[6] The first water-gate was built around 1580 by Cú Chonnacht Maguire, though subsequent lowering of the level of the lough has left it without water. The strategic position of the castle made it important for the English to capture it in 1593 for their plantation plans which was achieved by a Captain Dowdall. Maguire then laid siege to it and defeated a relieving force at the Battle of the Ford of the Bicuits at Drumane Bridge. Although the defenders were relieved, Maguire was in possession of the castle from 1595–8 and it wasn't till 1607 that it was finally captured by the English. Enniskillen and Derry were the two garrisons in Ulster that were not wholly loyal to James II, it was the last town to fall before the siege of Derry. This was part of a wider campaign to bring the province of Ulster under English control; there had been a major siege of Enniskillen Castle in 1594.[7] The Plantation of Ulster followed during which the lands of the native Irish were seized and handed over to planters loyal to the English Crown. The Maguires were supplanted by William Cole, originally from Devon, who was appointed by James I to build an English settlement there. Captain Cole was installed as Constable and strengthened the castle wall and built a "fair house" on the old Enniskillen's main street in 2004 foundation as the centrepoint of the county town. The first Protestant parish church was erected on the hilltop in 1627. The Royal Free School of Fermanagh was moved onto the island in 1643. The first bridges were drawbridges and permanent bridges were not installed before 1688. By 1689 the town had grown significantly. During the conflict which resulted from the ousting of King James II by his Protestant rival, William III, Enniskillen and Derry were the focus of Williamite resistance in Ireland, including the nearby Battle of Newtownbutler.[8] As a direct result of this conflict Enniskillen developed not only as a market town but also as a garrison, which became home to two regiments. The current site of Fermanagh College (now part of the South West College) was the former Enniskillen Gaol, many people were tried and hanged here in the square during the times of public execution. Part of the old Gaol is still used by the college. 231 Enniskillen 232 Military history Enniskillen is the site of the foundation of two British Army regiments: • Royal Inniskilling Fusiliers • The Inniskillings (6th Dragoons) The town's name (with the archaic spelling) continues to form part of the title to The Royal Irish Regiment (27th (Inniskilling) 83rd and 87th and Ulster Defence Regiment). The Troubles Enniskillen Castle The Remembrance Day Bombing (8 November 1987) was one of the most notable events of The Troubles. Eleven people were killed and hundreds injured as a result of a Provisional Irish Republican Army (IRA) bomb. One further person, Ronnie Hill, died after spending 13 years in a coma. The IRA later claimed that their target was a colour guard of British soldiers. At the same time as the Enniskillen bombing, the IRA also planted a bomb 20 miles away in Tullyhommon, near Pettigo, where the Boys' Brigade and the Girls' Brigade were due to participate in a Remembrance Day service. The bomb failed to detonate, preventing the further loss of innocent life. The Enniskillen bomb marked a turning point in the Northern Ireland peace process. For more information see The Troubles in Enniskillen, which includes a list of incidents in Enniskillen during the Troubles resulting in fatalities. Miscellaneous The Irish singer/songwriter Tommy Makem wrote a lighthearted song about the town, "Fare Thee Well, Enniskillen," covered by The Clancy Brothers and Tommy Makem and The Dubliners. The Chieftains sing a song that mentions Enniskillen titled "North Amerikay". Jim Kerr of Simple Minds was so moved by the results of the Enniskillen bombing in 1987 that he wrote new words to the traditional folk song "She Moved Through The Fair" and the group recorded it with the name "Belfast Child". The recording reached #1 in the UK Charts, Ireland and several other countries in 1989. The single was taken from the album "Street Fighting Years" and the single version was also published with the title "Ballad Of The Streets". The video to the song was shot in black and white and displays poignant footage of children and the destruction of the bombing. The Irish language novel Mo Dhá Mhicí by Séamus Mac Annaidh is set in Enniskillen. In the concert film of U2's Rattle and Hum, the town is mentioned by name. On the same day that some of the concert footage was being filmed, an IRA bomb killed eleven people at a Remembrance Day ceremony in Enniskillen (see Remembrance Day Bombing). During a performance of "Sunday Bloody Sunday", which appears on the film, Bono condemned the violence in a furious mid-song rant in which he yelled, "Fuck the revolution." So powerful was the performance, that the band said they were not sure the song should have been used in the film, and after watching the film, they considered not playing it on future tours. After the film was released, the IRA were furious and threatened to kidnap Bono. Enniskillen 233 Demographics Enniskillen is classified as a "medium town" by the Northern Ireland Statistics and Research Agency (NISRA) [9] (i.e. with population between 10,000 and 18,000 people). On census day (29 April 2001) there were 13,599 people living in Enniskillen. • 23.2% were aged under 16 years and 17.4% were aged 60 and over • 48.1% of the population were male and 51.9% were female • 61.5% were from a Catholic background and 36.3% were from a Protestant background • 5.2% of people aged 16–74 were unemployed. • 98.8% of people were from a white ethnic background. [10] For more details see: NI Neighbourhood Information Service [11] Enniskillen Registry Office Climate As with the rest of the British Isles, Enniskillen experiences a maritime climate with cool summers and mild winters. The nearest official Met Office weather station for which online records are available is at Lough Navar Forest,[12] about 8.5 miles North West of Enniskillen. Data has also more recently been collected from Enniskillen Airport/ St Angelo, under 4 miles to the North of the town centre, which should, in time, give a more accurate representation of the climate of the Enniskillen area. The absolute maximum temperature is 29.8 °C (unknown operator: u'strong' °F), recorded during July 2006.[13] In an 'average' year, the warmest day is 25.5 °C (unknown operator: u'strong' °F)[14] and only 2.4 days[15] a year should rise to 25.1 °C (unknown operator: u'strong' °F) or above. The respective absolute maximum for St Angelo is 29.4 °C (unknown operator: u'strong' °F)[16] The absolute minimum temperature is −12.9 °C (unknown operator: u'strong' °F), recorded during January 1984.[17] In an 'average' year, the coldest night should fall to −8.2 °C (unknown operator: u'strong' °F). Lough Navar is a frosty location, with some 76 air frosts recorded in a typical year.[18] It is likely Enniskillen town centre is significantly less frosty than this. The absolute minimum at St Angelo is −14.5 °C (unknown operator: u'strong' °F), reported during the record cold month of December 2010.[19] The warmest month on record at St Angelo was August 1995 with a mean temperature of 18.8 °C (unknown operator: u'strong' °F)[20] (mean maximum 23.3 °C (unknown operator: u'strong' °F), mean minimum 12.9 °C (unknown operator: u'strong' °F), while the coldest month was December 2010, with a mean temperature of −1.8 °C (unknown operator: u'strong' °F)[21] (mean maximum 2.9 °C (unknown operator: u'strong' °F), mean minimum −5.9 °C (unknown operator: u'strong' °F). Rainfall is high, averaging over 1500mm. 212 days of the year report at least 1mm of precipitation, ranging from 15 days during April, May and June, to 20 days in October, November, December, January and March. Enniskillen 234 Climate data for Lough Navar Forest 126m asl 1971-2000, extremes 1960- (Weather station 8.5 miles (unknown operator: u'strong' km) North West of Enniskillen) Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Year Record high °C (°F) 13.0 15.4 20.0 23.2 26.1 28.8 29.8 28.0 23.2 19.5 16.8 13.8 29.8 Average high °C (°F) 6.4 7.0 8.9 11.5 14.5 16.6 18.3 18.1 15.6 12.2 8.8 7.0 Average low °C (°F) 0.3 0.5 1.4 2.2 4.3 7.4 9.7 9.2 7.1 5.1 2.1 1.2 Record low °C (°F) −12.9 −10.5 −11.6 −7.3 −4.4 −2.4 1.0 0.2 −2.6 −7.2 −8.4 −12.8 −12.9 93.85 87.4 93.39 101.37 117.45 123.94 155.7 157.26 169.1 1522.84 Precipitation 163.38 123.19 136.81 mm (inches) (6.4323) (4.85) (5.3862) (3.6949) (3.441) (3.6768) (3.9909) (4.624) (4.8795) (6.13) (6.1913) (6.657) (59.9543) [22] Source #1: YR.NO date=September 2011 [23] Source #2: Royal Netherlands Meteorological Institute Places of interest • Ardhowen Theatre [24] • Castle Coole • Mount Lourdes Grammar School [25] • Enniskillen Collegiate Grammar School [26] • Cole's Monument • Enniskillen Castle • Portora Royal School • St Macartin's Cathedral [27] • • • • • • • The Clinton Centre St. Michael's College (Enniskillen) Fort Lodge Hotel The Round O The Lakeland Forum The Amphibious Flying Club Lakeland Seaplane Tours Ltd The Diamond "The Diamond" is the town square. It is located directly beside the Town Hall.[28][29] Cole's Monument Enniskillen International events In recent years, Enniskillen has hosted an array of international events, most notably, stages of the World Waterski World Cup annually from 2005 to 2007, at the Broadmeadow.[30] Despite its success, Enniskillen was not chosen as a World Cup Stop for 2008. Also, a Pro wakeboard competition, 'Wakejam', took place between July 27 and July 29, 2007, where top riders from around the world, as well as local riders, took part in the event, hosted by Erne Wakeboard Club (EWC). In January 2009, Enniskillen hosted the ceremonial start of Rally Ireland 2009, the first stage of the WRC FIA World Rally Championship 2009 Calendar. Enniskillen Airport is the host venue for Heli Challenge: The Premier Helicopter Championship]. Heli Challenge is an international competition, which tests the skill of some of the best helicopter pilots from across the British Isles. Enniskillen Airport has hosted Heli Challenge in 2009 & 2010. Heli Challenge will return in August 2011. May 2009 saw the first International Seaplane Festival take place at the Share Centre in Lisnakea, as part of the Fermanagh Seaplane Festival, 10 Seaplanes from across Europe arrived to celebrate the beauty of the Fermanagh Loughs. The day before the festival a number of planes landed in the town of Enniskillen (Dramatic footage of it can be seen on YouTube). For the past two years, Enniskillen has played host to the Ireland Horizons Unlimited Travelers Meeting, an event that draws motorcyclists from across the country and across Europe. The 2010 HU Ireland meeting raised £506 for Motorcycle Outreach, through the sale of raffle tickets and the generous donation of prizes. Notable people The following are former or current residents of the town. • Maria 'Mazza' Gilroy, pre-eminent sociologist • Samuel Beckett, playwright, educated at Portora Royal School • Declan Burns, Irish Kayaking legend, Three-time Irish Olympic representative and former World Superstars Runner-up • Roy Carroll, goalkeeper who has been capped by Northern Ireland. • Harry Chatton, football player, from the 1920s and 1930s, who was a dual international for both the IFA and FAI Irish international teams. • Jim Cleary, former Glentoran footballer and member of Northern Ireland's 1982 World Cup squad. • Edward Cooney, evangelist and early leader of the Cooneyite and Go-Preacher sects, educated at Portora Royal School • Adrian Dunbar, actor, born and brought up in Enniskillen • William Emerson (footballer), football player who won 11 caps for Ireland between 1919 and 1923. • Claire Falconer, actress and painter • Nial Fulton, film and television producer, educated at Portora Royal School • Neil Hannon, lead singer/composer of the pop band The Divine Comedy educated at Portora Royal School • Frank Hoy, professional wrestler, was born in the town • Edward Kernan, a Roman Catholic bishop • Kyle Lafferty, striker, professional football player for Rangers and Northern Ireland international. • Charles Lawson, most notable for playing Jim McDonald in Coronation Street • Andrew Little, professional football player for Rangers and Northern Ireland international. • Henry Francis Lyte, hymn composer, most notably Abide With Me, educated at Portora Royal School • Robert Kerr, Olympic 100 m gold medalist in the 1908 Olympics for Canada • David McCann, author of children's books • Michael McGovern, Northern Ireland international goalkeeper, currently with Falkirk F.C. 235 Enniskillen 236 • Nigel McLoughlin, poet, editor of Iota poetry journal and Reader in Creative Writing, University of Gloucestershire • Ciarán McMenamin, television actor • Gavin Noble, Irish international triathlete • Frank Ormsby, poet • David Robinson, photographer and publisher, educated at Portora Royal School • Seán Quinn, entrepreneur and formerly Ireland's richest man (originally from Derrylin) • Mick Softley singer and song writer for Bob Dylan and Donovan, currently lives in the town • Duke of Westminster, formerly the UK's richest man, brought up at the family's estate at Ely Lodge • Oscar Wilde, satirist and playwright, educated at Portora Royal School • Gordon Wilson, peace campaigner and Irish senator • Ron Wilson is a news anchor with Network Ten in Australia Common surnames Most common surnames in Enniskillen according Irish Census 1901/1911: Maguire, Wilson, Johnston, Murphy, Irvine, McManus, Kelly, Elliott, Drumm, Smith, Doherty, Donnelly, Gallagher, Shannon, Smyth, Morrison, Keenan, Armstrong, Nolan, Bleakley, Love, Crawford, FitzPatrick, Boyd, Martin, Dolan, Stewart, Magee, Walker, Flanagan, Henderson, Cleary, Sweeney, Breen, Clarke, Nixon, Jones, Hynes, Corrigan, Reilly, Slavin, Dooris, Cassidy, Scott, McLoughlin, McCusker, Carney, Rooney, Leonard, Carrothers, McGovern, Dorothy, Quinn, Ward, Wadsworth, McCaffery, Palmer, Lunny, Harte, Robinson, McDonagh, Lally, Montgomery, Maxwell, McCauley, Cox, Hassard, Curran, Haren, McNulty, McBride, McFarland, Fox, Dundas, Coulter, Forsythe, Brady, Parker, Gardiner, Hamilton, Campbell, McMullen, Mulligan, Duffy, Steele, Miller, Moore, Feely, McCaffrey, McKernan, Carleton, Monaghan, Gibson, Thompson, Latimer, Ritchie, Scollan, Cavanagh, Drumn, Barton, Gregg, Hogan, O'Donnell, McKeown, Jackson, McKenna, Hall, Dickson, Gildea, Carroll, Coalter, Connor, Hurst, Vaughan, Hueston, Cadden, Graham, Kennedy, Ford, Ross, Frith, Healy. Education There are numerous schools and colleges in and around the Enniskillen area, from primary level to secondary level, including some further education colleges such as the technical college. Primary level • • • • • Erne Integrated Primary school Model primary school Holy Trinity Primary School Jones Memorial Primary School Mullnaskea Primary School The old Enniskillen Model School, now used as the Fermanagh office of the Western Education and Library Board (WELB) Enniskillen 237 Secondary level • • • • • • • • Erne Integrated College Devenish College (a collaboration of Enniskillen High School and the Duke of Westminster College in Kesh) Enniskillen Collegiate Grammar School Portora Royal School Mount Lourdes Enniskillen; convent girls grammar school St Michael's College; boys grammar school St Fanchea's College St Joseph's College Colleges • Enniskillen College of Agriculture, Food and Rural Enterprise • Enniskillen Campus South West College Transport Railway lines from Enniskillen railway station linked the town with Derry from 1854, Dundalk from 1861, Bundoran from 1868 and Sligo from 1882.[31] By 1883 the Great Northern Railway (Ireland) absorbed all the lines except the Sligo, Leitrim and Northern Counties Railway, which remained independent throughout its existence. In October 1957 the Government of Northern Ireland closed the GNR line, which made it impossible for the SL&NCR continue and forced it also to close.[32] Enniskillen has an extensive bus service; both Ulsterbus and Bus Éireann serve Fermanagh through the main bus station in Enniskillen. The nearest railway station to Enniskillen is Sligo station which is served by trains to Dublin Connolly and is operated by Iarnród Éireann. The Dublin-Sligo railway line has a two hourly service run by Irish Rail Official site Timetables, bookings and operations [6] The connecting bus from Sligo via Manorhamilton to Enniskillen is route 66 operated by Bus Éireann. Enniskillen has a World War II-era airport, Enniskillen/St Angelo Airport. The airport had scheduled flights in the past, but now serves mainly private traffic. The town is on the main A4/N16 route linking Belfast and Sligo, and on the main Dublin to Ballyshannon route, the N3/A46/A509. Twinning Enniskillen is twinned with Bielefeld, Germany. Enniskillen was originally twinned with Brackwede – a Bielefeld suburb – where the Inniskillen Dragoon Guards were stationed at the end of World War II; however, this suburb was incorporated into Stadt Bielefeld in 1973, the city with which Enniskillen is now officially twinned. • Bielefeld, North Rhine-Westphalia – Germany Enniskillen References • Culture Northern Ireland [33] • Enniskillen Gaels GFC [34]. [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] History of Moira Station – NI Department of the Environment (http:/ / www. doeni. gov. uk/ niea/ moirastationus. pdf) http:/ / getamap. ordnancesurvey. co. uk/ getamap/ frames. htm?mapAction=gaz& gazName=g& gazString=H240440 http:/ / www. enniskillen. com/ Placenames Database of Ireland (http:/ / www. logainm. ie/ ?text=enniskillen& placeID=1167106) Mary Rogers (1982). Prospect of Fermanagh. Watergate Press, Enniskillen. "The Maguires of Fermanagh" (http:/ / www. libraryireland. com/ articles/ MaguiresDuffysHibernian2-10/ index. php). . http:/ / www. enniskillencastle. co. uk/ / page. cfm/ area/ information/ page/ Attacks/ pkey/ 1227 Witherow, Thomas. "The Defence of Enniskillen" (http:/ / www. libraryireland. com/ Derry1689/ VI-1. php). Derry and Enniskillen in the Year 1689. Library Ireland. Retrieved May 24, 2012. [9] http:/ / www. nisra. gov. uk/ [10] http:/ / www. ninis. nisra. gov. uk/ mapxtreme_towns/ report. asp?SettlementName=Enniskillen& bandName=Medium Town [11] http:/ / www. ninis. nisra. gov. uk/ [12] "Station Locations" (http:/ / www. metoffice. gov. uk/ climate/ uk/ ni/ images/ locations. jpg). MetOffice. . [13] "2006 Maximum" (http:/ / eca. knmi. nl/ utils/ monitordetail. php?seasonid=13& year=2006& indexid=TXx& stationid=1822). . Retrieved 2011-09-20. [14] "71-00 Mean Warmest Day" (http:/ / eca. knmi. nl/ utils/ calcdetail. php?seasonid=0& periodid=1971-2000& indexid=TXx& stationid=1822). . Retrieved 2011-09-20. [15] "71-00 >25c days" (http:/ / eca. knmi. nl/ utils/ calcdetail. php?seasonid=0& periodid=1971-2000& indexid=SU& stationid=1822). . Retrieved 2011-09-20. [16] "2006 Maximum" (http:/ / www. tutiempo. net/ en/ Climate/ ST_ANGELO/ 19-07-2006/ 39030. htm). . Retrieved 2011-09-20. [17] "2003 Sunshine" (http:/ / eca. knmi. nl/ utils/ monitordetail. php?seasonid=0& year=2003& indexid=SS& stationid=1860). . Retrieved 2011-09-20. [18] "2003 Sunshine" (http:/ / eca. knmi. nl/ utils/ monitordetail. php?seasonid=0& year=2003& indexid=SS& stationid=1860). . Retrieved 2011-09-20. [19] "2003 Sunshine" (http:/ / eca. knmi. nl/ utils/ monitordetail. php?seasonid=0& year=2003& indexid=SS& stationid=1860). . Retrieved 2011-09-20. [20] "August 1995" (http:/ / www. tutiempo. net/ en/ Climate/ ST_ANGELO/ 08-1995/ 39030. htm). . Retrieved 2011-09-20. [21] "December 2010" (http:/ / www. tutiempo. net/ en/ Climate/ ST_ANGELO/ 12-2010/ 39030. htm). . Retrieved 2011-09-20. [22] "1971-2000 averages" (http:/ / www. yr. no/ place/ United_Kingdom/ Northern_Ireland/ Enniskillen/ statistics. html). Met Office. . Retrieved 16 sep 2011. [23] "Climate Normals 1971–2000" (http:/ / eca. knmi. nl/ utils/ calcdetail. php?seasonid=0& periodid=1971-2000). Royal Netherlands Meteorological Institute. . Retrieved 20 Sep 2011. [24] http:/ / www. fermanagh. gov. uk/ index. cfm?website_Key=47& Category_key=134& Page_Key=212 [25] http:/ / www. mountlourdes. com/ web/ site/ [26] http:/ / www. enniskillencollegiate. org. uk [27] http:/ / www. enniskillencathedral. com [28] http:/ / www. fermanagh. gov. uk/ gallery/ Gallery_Cats. cfm?Cat_Id=18 [29] Arts Council of Northern Ireland (http:/ / www. artscouncil-ni. org/ ), "Architecture & the Built Environment: Consultation Document Submitted by the Architecture Working Group". (Belfast, April 2002). Accessed online April 12, 2007 (http:/ / www. artscouncil-ni. org/ departs/ creative/ architect/ architect. pdf). [30] "International Water Ski Federation 2007" (http:/ / www. iwsftournament. com/ calendar/ calendardisplay. php). . [31] Hajducki, S. Maxwell (1974). A Railway Atlas of Ireland. Newton Abbott: David & Charles. maps 6, 7, 12. ISBN 0-7153-5167-2. [32] Sprinks, N.W. (1970). Sligo, Leitrim and Northern Counties Railway. Billericay: Irish Railway Record Society (London Area). [33] http:/ / web. archive. org/ web/ 20070930180816/ http:/ / www. culturenorthernireland. org/ town_Home. aspx?co=5& to=113& ca=0& sca=0& navID=1 [34] http:/ / enniskillengaels. fermanagh. gaa. ie/ 238 Enniskillen External links • • • • • VisitEnniskillen.Com (http://www.visitenniskillen.com) Enniskillen.Com (http://www.enniskillen.com) Enniskillen Accommodation (http://www.visitenniskillen.com/businesses/accommodation) Enniskillen Restaurants (http://www.visitenniskillen.com/businesses/food-and-drink/restaurants) St. Macartin's Cathedral (http://www.enniskillencathedral.com) 239 Donegal railway station 240 Donegal railway station Donegal Railway station buildings in Donegal, now the Donegal Railway Centre Location Location Donegal Area County Donegal Coordinates 54°39′24″N 8°06′31″W Operations Original company West Donegal Railway Post-grouping County Donegal Railways Joint Committee History 16 September 1889 Station opens 1 January 1960 Station closes Disused railway stations in Ireland Closed railway stations in Ireland ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ Donegal railway station served Donegal in County Donegal, Ireland. The station opened on 16 September 1889 on the West Donegal Railway line from Stranorlar to Donegal. It closed on 1 January 1960.[1] It is now the home of the Donegal Railway Centre. Routes Donegal railway station 241 Preceding station Disused railways Following station Clarbridge Halt West Donegal Railway Stranorlar to Donegal Terminus Terminus Donegal Railway Company Donegal to Killybegs Killymard Halt Terminus Donegal Railway Company Donegal to Ballyshannon Hospital Halt References [1] "Donegal station" (http:/ / www. railscot. co. uk/ Ireland/ Irish_railways. pdf). Railscot - Irish Railways. . Retrieved 2012-04-27. Donegal Railway Centre The Donegal Railway Heritage Centre commemorates the operations of the County Donegal Railways Committee which operated two narrow gauge railways in County Donegal from 1863 until 1959. The centre, opened in 1995 and housed in the old station house in Donegal Town, was restored by the County Donegal Railway Restoration Society. Today, it operates as a visitor attraction comprising a museum, information centre and shop. On display are rolling stock, historical artefacts and an audio-visual presentation on the railways’ history. Rolling stock The centre owns several items of rolling stock, some awaiting restoration. • Class 5 Locomotive, ‘’Drumboe’’ built 1936, awaiting restoration. • Restored Series 2 Carriage #28 from 1893. • Railcar #15, built 1936, awaiting restoration. • Trailer #5, built 1929, awaiting restoration. Former station in Donegal, now the home of the museum Donegal Railway Centre Sources • • • • Website of the County Donegal Railway Restoration Society [1] Donegal Town Website [2] Heritage Centre web page [3] Kits for many of the passenger coaches and locomotives are produced by Worsley Works - website [4] References [1] [2] [3] [4] http:/ / www. donegalrailway. com http:/ / www. Donegaltown. ie http:/ / www. irishtourist. com/ details/ the_donegal_railway_heritage_centre. shtml http:/ / worsleyworks. co. uk/ 242 Gaelic football 243 Gaelic football Gaelic football Peil Ghaelach Players in action during the 2009 National League final. Highest governing body Gaelic Athletic Association Nickname(s) Caid Football Gaelic First played 1802 Registered players 1887 Clubs over 2,500 Characteristics Contact Yes Team members 15 on each team Mixed gender Single Categorization Outdoor Equipment Football Olympic Not recognised as an Olympic sport Gaelic football (Irish: Peil Ghaelach; short name Peil or Caid), commonly referred to as football or Gaelic,[1] is a sport played between two teams of 15 players on a rectangular grass pitch. The objective of the sport is to score points by passing the ball through the other team's goals, a set of two upright posts separated by a crossbar 2.5 metres (unknown operator: u'strong' ft) above the ground. Players advance the football, a spherical leather ball, up the field with a combination of carrying, bouncing, kicking, hand-passing, and soloing (dropping the ball and then toe-kicking the ball upward into the hands). In the game, two types of scores are possible: points and goals. A point is awarded for kicking or hand-passing the ball over the crossbar, signalled by the umpire raising a white flag. A goal is awarded for kicking the ball under the crossbar into the net, signalled by the umpire raising a green flag. Positions in Gaelic football are similar to that in other football codes, and comprise one goalkeeper, six backs, two midfielders, and six forwards, with a variable number of substitutes. The sport, a form of football derived from traditional Irish ball games, is mainly played in Ireland, although associations exist in other areas such as Great Britain and North America. Gaelic football is one of four sports (collectively referred to as the "Gaelic games") controlled by the Gaelic Athletic Association (GAA), the largest sporting organisation in Ireland. Along with hurling and camogie, Gaelic football is one of the few remaining strictly amateur sports in the world, with players, coaches, and managers prohibited from receiving any form of payment. Gaelic football 244 Gaelic football is the most popular sport in Ireland in terms of attendance, with the 2011 All-Ireland Senior Championship Final, held at Croke Park, Dublin, drawing an attendance of 82,300 people. Outside of Ireland, football is mainly played amongst members of the Irish diaspora. Gaelic Park in New York City is the largest purpose-built Gaelic sports venue outside of Ireland. Three major football competitions operate throughout the year: the National Football League and the All-Ireland Senior Championship are operated on a county basis, while the All-Ireland Club Championship is contested by individual clubs. The All-Ireland Senior Championship is run as a knock-out competition, with the top two counties meeting in the All-Ireland Football Final, considered the most prestigious event in Gaelic football. Under the auspices of the GAA, Gaelic football is a male-only sport; however, the related sport of ladies' Gaelic football is governed by the Ladies' Gaelic Football Association. Similarities between Gaelic football and Australian rules football have allowed the development of International rules football, a hybrid sport, and a series of Test matches has been held annually since 1998, with the exception of the cancelled 2007 edition. Rules Playing field A Gaelic pitch is similar in some respects to a rugby pitch but larger. The grass pitch is rectangular, stretching 130–145 metres long and 80–90 metres wide. There are H-shaped goalposts at each end, formed by two posts, which are usually 7 m high, set 6.5 m apart, and connected 2.5 m above the ground by a crossbar. A net extending behind the goal is attached to the crossbar and lower goal posts. The same pitch is used for hurling; the GAA, which organizes both sports, decided this to facilitate dual usage. Lines are marked at distances of 13 m, 20m and 45 m from each end-line. Shorter pitches and smaller goals are used by youth teams.[2] Duration The majority of adult football and all minor and under-21 matches last for 60 minutes, divided into two halves of 30 minutes, with the exception of senior inter-county games which last for 70 minutes (two halves of 35 minutes). Draws are decided by replays or by playing 20 minutes of extra time (two halves of 10 minutes). The under-12s have a half of 20 minutes or 25 minutes in some cases. Half-time lasts for about 15 minutes. Diagram of a Gaelic football pitch Gaelic football 245 Teams Teams consist of fifteen players[3] (a goalkeeper, two corner backs, a full back, two wing backs,a centre back, two mid fielders, two wing forwards, a centre forward, two corner forwards and a full forward) plus up to fifteen substitutes, of which five may be used. Each player is numbered 1–15, starting with the goalkeeper, who must wear a jersey colour different from that of his or her teammates. Positions Further information: Gaelic football, hurling and camogie positions Ball The game is played with a round leather football made of 18 stitched leather panels, similar in appearance to a traditional volleyball, with a circumference of 69–74 cm (unknown operator: u'strong'unknown operator: u'strong'unknown operator: u'strong' unknown operator: u'strong'), weighing between 370–425 g (unknown operator: u'strong'unknown operator: u'strong'unknown operator: u'strong' unknown operator: u'strong') when dry. It may be kicked or hand passed. A hand pass is not a punch but rather a strike of the ball with the side of the closed fist, using the knuckle of the thumb. Technical fouls The following are considered technical fouls ("fouling the ball"): • Bouncing the ball twice in a row (It may be soloed continuously) • Changing hands: Throwing the ball from your right-hand to left or vice-versa (legal in the ladies' game) • Going four steps without releasing, bouncing or soloing the ball (soloing involves kicking the ball into one's own hands)[4] • Hand passing a goal (the ball may be punched into the goal from up in the air, however) • Picking the ball directly off the ground (it must be scooped up into the hands by the foot), however in ladies' Gaelic football the ball may be picked up directly • Square ball is an often controversial rule: If, at the moment the ball enters the small square, there is already an attacking player inside the small rectangle, then a free out is awarded* • Throwing the ball (it may be "hand-passed" by striking with the fist) The ball, made by Irish company O'Neills, being used for a Gaelic football match. Gaelic football 246 Scoring If the ball goes over the crossbar, a point is scored and a white flag is raised by an umpire. A point can be scored by either kicking the ball over the crossbar, or by fisting it over in which case the hand must be closed whilst striking the ball. If the ball goes below the crossbar, a goal, worth three points, is scored, and a green flag is raised by an umpire. A goal can only be scored by kicking the ball into the net, not by fist passing the ball into the net. However, a player can strike the ball into the net with a closed fist if the ball was played to him by another player or came in contact with the post/crossbar/ground prior to connection. The goal is guarded by a goalkeeper. Scores are recorded in the format Goal Total-Point Total. To determine the score-line goals must be converted to points and added to the other points. For example, in a match with a final score of Team A 0–21 Team B 4–8, Team A is the winner with 21 points, as Team B scored only 20 points (4 times 3, plus 8). Tackling A player from a Canada GAA club shoots for goal The level of tackling allowed is more robust than in association football, but less than rugby. Shoulder to shoulder contact and slapping the ball out of an opponent's hand are permitted, but the following are all fouls: • • • • • • • • • Blocking a shot with the foot Pulling an opponent's jersey Pushing an opponent Sliding tackles Striking an opponent Touching the goalkeeper when he/she is inside the small rectangle Tripping Using both hands to tackle Wrestling the ball from an opponent's hands Restarting play • A match begins with the referee throwing the ball up between the four mid fielders. • After an attacker has put the ball wide of the goals, scored a point or a goal, the goalkeeper may take a kick out from the ground at the 13m line. All players must be beyond the 20m line. • After a defender has put the ball wide of the goals, an attacker may take a "45" from the ground on the 45m line, level with where the ball went wide. • After a player has put the ball over the sideline, the other team may take a sideline kick at the point where the ball left the pitch. It may be kicked from the ground or the hands. The player who is taking the sideline kick must not pass the boundary line while taking. • After a player has committed a foul, the other team may take a free kick (usually shortened to "free" in reports/commentaries) at the point where the foul was committed. It may be kicked from the ground or the hands. • If a player has been fouled while passing the ball, the free may be taken from the point where the ball landed. Gaelic football • After a defender has committed a foul inside the large rectangle, the other team may take a penalty kick from the ground from the center of the 11m line. Only the goalkeeper may guard the goals. • If many players are struggling for the ball and it is not clear who was fouled first, the referee may choose to throw the ball up between two opposing players. Officials A football match is overseen by eight officials: • • • • The referee Two linesmen Sideline official/Standby linesman (inter-county games only) Four umpires (two at each end) The referee is responsible for starting and stopping play, recording the score, awarding frees and booking and sending off players. Linesmen are responsible for indicating the direction of line balls to the referee. The fourth official is responsible for overseeing substitutions, and also indicating the amount of stoppage time (signaled to him by the referee) and the players substituted using an electronic board. The umpires are responsible for judging the scoring. They indicate to the referee whether a shot was: wide (spread both arms), a 45 m kick (raise one arm), a point (wave white flag), square ball (cross arms) or a goal (wave green flag). A disallowed score is indicated by crossing the green and white flags. Contrary to popular belief within the association, all officials are not obliged to indicate "any misdemeanours" to the referee, but are in fact only permitted to inform the referee of violent conduct they have witnessed which has occurred without the referee's knowledge. A linesman/umpire is not permitted to inform the referee of technical fouls such as a "double bounce" or an illegal pick up of the ball. Such decisions can only be made at the discretion of the referee. History Gaelic football was first codified in 1887, although it has links to older varieties of football played in Ireland and known collectively as caid. Consequently, the name caid is used by some people to refer to present day Gaelic football. The first record of any form of football being played in Ireland comes from 1308, when John McCrocan, a spectator at a football game at Newcastle, County Dublin was charged with accidentally stabbing a player named William Bernard.[5] The Statute of Galway of 1527 allowed the playing of "foot balle" and archery but banned "'hokie' — the hurling of a little ball with sticks or staves" as well as other sports. By the 17th century, the situation had changed considerably. The games had grown in popularity and were widely played. This was due to the patronage of the gentry. Now instead of opposing the games it was the gentry and the ruling class who were serving as patrons of the games. Games were organised between landlords with each team comprising 20 or more tenants. Wagers were commonplace with purses of up to 100 guineas (Prior, 1997). The earliest record of a recognized precursor to the modern game date from a match in County Meath in 1670, in which catching and kicking the ball was permitted.[6] However even "foot-ball" was banned by the severe Sunday Observance Act of 1695, which imposed a fine of one shilling (a substantial amount at the time) for those caught playing sports. It proved difficult, if not impossible, for the authorities to enforce the Act and the earliest recorded inter-county match in Ireland was one between Louth and Meath, at Slane, in 1712. 247 Gaelic football A six-a-side version was played in Dublin in the early 18th century, and 100 years later there were accounts of games played between County sides (Prior, 1997). By the early 19th century, various football games, referred to collectively as caid, were popular in Kerry, especially the Dingle Peninsula. Father W. Ferris described two forms of caid: the "field game" in which the object was to put the ball through arch-like goals, formed from the boughs of two trees, and; the epic "cross-country game" which lasted the whole of a Sunday (after mass) and was won by taking the ball across a parish boundary. "Wrestling", "holding" opposing players, and carrying the ball were all allowed. During the 1860s and 1870s, Rugby football started to become popular in Ireland. Trinity College, Dublin was an early stronghold of Rugby, and the rules of the (English) Football Association were codified in 1863 and distributed widely. By this time, according to Gaelic football historian Jack Mahon, even in the Irish countryside, caid had begun to give way to a "rough-and-tumble game" which even allowed tripping. Association football started to take hold, especially in Ulster, in the 1880s. Limerick was the stronghold of the native game around this time, and the Commercials Club, founded by employees of Cannock’s Drappery Store, was one of the first to impose a set of rules which was adapted by other clubs in the city. Of all the Irish pastimes the GAA set out to preserve and promote, it is fair to say that Gaelic football was in the worst shape at the time of the association’s foundation (GAA Museum, 2001).[6] Irish forms of football were not formally arranged into an organised playing code by the Gaelic Athletic Association (GAA) until 1887. The GAA sought to promote traditional Irish sports, such as hurling and to reject "foreign" (particularly English) imports. The first Gaelic football rules, showing the influence of hurling and a desire to differentiate from association football — for example in their lack of an offside rule — were drawn up by Maurice Davin and published in the United Ireland magazine on February 7, 1887. The rules of the aforementioned Commercials Club became the basis for these official (Gaelic Football) rules who, unsurprisingly, won the inaugural All-Ireland Senior Football Final (representing County Limerick)[7] On Bloody Sunday in 1920, during the Anglo-Irish War, a football match at Croke Park was attacked by British forces. 14 people were killed and 65 were injured. Among the dead was Tipperary footballer Michael Hogan, for whom the Hogan Stand at Croke Park (completed in 1924) was named. Ladies' Gaelic football has become increasingly popular with women since the 1970s. The relationship between Gaelic football and Australian rules football and the question of whether they have shared origins is a matter of historical controversy. Games are held between an Irish representative team and an Australian team, under compromise rules known as International rules football. The current President of the GAA is Christy Cooney of Youghal, County Cork.[8] Team of the Century and Team of the Millennium The Team of the Century was nominated in 1984 by Sunday Independent readers and selected by a panel of experts including journalists and former players.[9] It was chosen as part of the Gaelic Athletic Association's centenary year celebrations. The goal was to single out the best ever 15 players who had played the game in their respective positions. Naturally many of the selections were hotly debated by fans around the country. 248 Gaelic football 249 Goalkeeper Dan O'Keeffe (Kerry) Right Corner Back Full Back Left Corner Back Enda Colleran (Galway) Paddy O'Brien (Meath) Seán Flanagan (Mayo) Right Half Back Centre Back Left Half Back Sean Murphy (Kerry) J. J. O'Reilly (Cavan) Stephen White (Louth) Midfield Mick O'Connell (Kerry) Jack O'Shea (Kerry) Right Half Forward Centre Forward Left Half Forward Seán O'Neill (Down) Sean Purcell (Galway) Pat Spillane (Kerry) Right Corner Forward Full Forward Left Corner Forward Mikey Sheehy (Kerry) Tommy Langan (Mayo) Kevin Heffernan (Dublin) The Team of the Millennium was a team chosen in 1999 by a panel of GAA past presidents and journalists. The goal was to single out the best ever 15 players who had played the game in their respective positions, since the foundation of the GAA in 1884 up to the Millennium year, 2000. Naturally many of the selections were hotly debated by fans around the country. Goalkeeper Dan O'Keeffe (Kerry) Right Corner Back Full Back Left Corner Back Enda Colleran (Galway) Joe Keohane (Kerry) Seán Flanagan (Mayo) Right Half Back Centre Back Left Half Back Sean Murphy (Kerry) J. J. O'Reilly (Cavan) Martin O'Connell (Meath) Midfield Mick O'Connell (Kerry) Tommy Murphy (Laois) Right Half Forward Centre Forward Left Half Forward Seán O'Neill (Down) Sean Purcell (Galway) Pat Spillane (Kerry) Right Corner Forward Full Forward Left Corner Forward Gaelic football 250 Mikey Sheehy (Kerry) Tommy Langan (Mayo) Kevin Heffernan (Dublin) Leagues and team structure All Gaelic sports are amateur; easing the strictness with which this is interpreted is advocated by the Gaelic Players Association. The basic unit of each game is organised at the club level, which is usually arranged on a parish basis, with various local clubs playing to win the County Championship at various levels: Children participating in a game of Gaelic football Levels Name Senior Description the better adult teams Intermediate teams between Senior and Junior levels Junior weaker adult teams, often from smaller communities Under-21 under 21 Minor under 18 Under-age all ages from under-17 down to under-6 A club may have more than one team, for example one competing at Senior level and a 'seconds' team in a lower division. At the national level, the GAA in Ireland is organised in 32 GAA counties most of which are identical in name and extent to the 32 administrative counties on which local government throughout the island was based until the late 20th century.[10] The term 'county' is also used for some overseas GAA areas such as London and New York. There are also clubs in other parts of the USA, Britain, Asia, Australasia, continental Europe and Canada. Though Ireland was partitioned between two states in 1920, Gaelic sports (like most cultural organisations and all religions) continue to be organised on an All-Ireland basis. A county panel - a team of 15 players, plus a similar number of substitutes - is formed from the best players playing at club level. Nearly all counties play against each other in a knock-out tournament known as the All Ireland Championship. These modified knock-out games start as provincial championships for the four Irish provinces of Ulster, Munster, Leinster and Connacht. In the past, the team winning each provincial championship would play one of the others, at a stage known as the All-Ireland semi-finals, with the winning team from each game playing each other in the All-Ireland Final. Gaelic football A recent re-organisation now provides a 'back door' method of qualifying, with knocked out teams getting another chance to win back into the competition. This means that one team may defeat another team in an early stage of the championship, yet be defeated and knocked out of the tournament by the same team at a later stage. County teams also compete in the National Football League, held every spring and grouping counties in for Divisions according to their relative strength. The League is not as prestigious as the All-Ireland, but in recent years attendances have grown, as has interest from the public and from players. This is due in part to the adoption in 2002 of the February–April timetable, in place of the former November start, and the provision of Division 2 final stages. Live matches are shown on the Irish-language TV station TG4 and on Setanta Ireland, with highlights shown on RTÉ2. All-Ireland Final The final game of the inter-county series is the All-Ireland Final which takes place on the third Sunday of September at Croke Park. Over the four Sundays of September, All-Ireland Finals in men's football, women's football, hurling and camogie take place in Croke Park, 82,000 people at the All-Ireland Football Final in Croke Park, 2004. the national stadium of the GAA, with the men's decider regularly attracting crowds of over 80,000. Guests who attend include the President of Ireland, the Taoiseach and leading dignitaries. Two levels of the game are played at each All-Ireland, the Senior team and the Minor team (consisting of younger players, under the age of 18, who have played their own Minor All-Ireland competition). The winning senior county football team receives the Sam Maguire cup. The most successful county in the history of football is Kerry, with 36 All-Ireland wins, followed by Dublin, with 23 wins. References • Jack Mahon, 2001, A History of Gaelic Football Dublin: Gill & Macmillan. (ISBN 0-7171-3279-X) Footnotes [1] The sport is also sometimes referred to in Dublin as "Gah": see Kelly, Fiach (2008-06-30). "Plenty to give out about for the Dubs" (http:/ / www. independent. ie/ national-news/ plenty-to-give-out-about-for-the-dubs-1423216. html). Irish Independent. . Retrieved 2009-09-18.; "The Biggest Traditional Irish Sports" (http:/ / www. gaelicmatters. com/ traditional-irish-sports. html). . Retrieved 2012-04-12. [2] "GAA pitch size" (http:/ / news. bbc. co. uk/ sport2/ hi/ northern_ireland/ gaelic_games/ 4293130. stm). BBC News. 2005-10-11. . Retrieved 2009-09-18. [3] GAA Official Guide – Part 2 (http:/ / www. gaa. ie/ content/ documents/ publications/ official_guides/ Official_Guide_2009_Part2_100110194036. pdf). Gaelic Athletic Association. 2009. p. 8. . "A team shall consist of fifteen players." [4] "All About Football" (http:/ / www. gaa. ie/ page/ all_about_football. html). . Retrieved 2009-09-18. [5] "Irish Gaelic Football" (http:/ / www. gaelic. com/ irish-gaelic-football. html). Accessed 19 September 2011. [6] The History of Gaelic Football and the Gaelic Athletic Association (http:/ / 209. 85. 135. 104/ search?q=cache:7Et5llYp104J:www. thesmartjournal. com/ GAA. pdf+ origin+ of+ gaelic+ football& hl=en& ct=clnk& cd=30& gl=ie) [7] 8 pupil SEN* (http:/ / 209. 85. 135. 104/ search?q=cache:jjjzHrPHMvsJ:www. ceim. gaa. ie/ files/ 8%20pupil%20SEN. pdf+ Maurice+ Davin+ commercials+ club& hl=en& ct=clnk& cd=2& gl=ie) [8] "Duffy announced as GAA's new director general | Sport | BreakingNews.ie" (http:/ / www. breakingnews. ie/ sport/ mhmhqleymhmh/ ). Breakingnews.ie. 2007-11-21. . Retrieved 2009-09-18. [9] Corry, Eoghan (2005). The GAA Book of Lists. Hodder Headline Ireland. p. 238. [10] The administrative counties have been rearranged in the 20th century. Northern Ireland's original six counties are now divided into 26 local government districts, while the Republic of Ireland's 26 counties have been redrawn, leading to a modern local governmental unit total of 33. The GAA's 32 counties are mainly named for the administrative counties as they existed when the Association was formed, with some 251 Gaelic football exceptions (such as Derry and Laois). While the former administrative county borders are generally respected, a GAA county may occasionally open its competitions to clubs that are wholly or partly based in neighbouring counties. External links • • • • Rules (http://www.gaa.ie/content/documents/publications/official_guides/Official_Guide_2010_Part2.pdf) Official GAA website (http://www.gaa.ie/) An Fear Rua – The GAA Unplugged (http://www.anfearrua.com/) http://www.weecountynews.com/ 252 Gaelic Athletic Association 253 Gaelic Athletic Association Gaelic Athletic Association Cumann Lúthchleas Gael Formation 1 November 1884 Type Sports organisation Purpose/focus The management and promotion of Gaelic games, and promotion of Irish culture and language Headquarters Croke Park, Dublin Region served Worldwide Membership 1,000,000 Official languages Irish President Liam O'Neill Staff Limited full time staff Website http:/ / www. gaa. ie The Gaelic Athletic Association (GAA) (Irish: Cumann Lúthchleas Gael, Irish pronunciation: [ˈkʊmˠən̪ˠ ˈl̪ˠuh.xlʲæsˠ ɡeːl̪ˠ] (CLG)) is an Irish and international amateur sporting and cultural organisation, focused primarily on promoting Gaelic games, which include the traditional Irish sports of hurling, camogie, Gaelic football, handball and rounders. The GAA also promotes Irish music and dance, and the Irish language. It has more than 1 million members worldwide.[1][2][3][4] Gaelic football and hurling are the most popular activities promoted by the organisation, and the most popular sports in the Republic of Ireland in terms of attendances.[5] Gaelic football is also the largest participation sport in Northern Ireland.[6] The women's version of these games, ladies' Gaelic football and camogie, are organised by the independent but closely linked Ladies' Gaelic Football Association and the Camogie Association of Ireland respectively. GAA Handball is the Irish governing body for the sport of handball. Since its foundation in the late 19th century, the GAA has grown to become a major influence in Irish sporting and cultural life with considerable reach into communities throughout Ireland and among the Irish diaspora.[7] History Foundation and aims Further information: History of the Gaelic Athletic Association The Gaelic Athletic Association was founded at 3 pm on Saturday, 1 November 1884, in the billiards room of Lizzie Hayes' Commercial Hotel, Thurles, County Tipperary.[8][9] All present that day had come in response to a circular published in the national press, or had been invited privately by Michael Cusack and Maurice Davin, both of whom were leading figures in Irish athletics. From its very beginning the GAA was considered to be no mere sporting organisation, with T.E. O'Sullivan their first historian noting that the association was founded by men who wished to "foster a spirit of earnest nationality" and as a means of "saving thousands of young Irishmen from becoming mere West Britons". A police report written by Inspector A.W. Waters in the mid-1880s claimed that the GAA had been founded by the Irish Republican Brotherhood with the intention of getting "the muscular youth of the country into an organisation, drilled and disciplined to form a physical power capable of over-awing and coercing the home rule government of the future". GAA historian Marcus de Búrca, writing in the Tipperary Historical Journal (2004), notes of the suggestion that the IRB were the true founders of the GAA, "far from this theory fading out the further Gaelic Athletic Association away we move from the 1880s, the more convincing it is becoming", in light of new information coming to light,[10][11] While the accepted number of founding members is seven according to Marcus de Búrca, between eight and 13 people attended the meeting in Hayes'. Cusack himself put the figure at 12, changing it later to nine. F.R. Moloney of Nenagh, while undoubtedly attending, was not included on the list of attendees.[9] W.F. Mandle says that Moloney, a leading IRB member ("notoriously so"), attended and that his presence at the meeting was not made public. Two other members of the Brotherhood who were recorded as attending were John Wyse Power, who would become one of the secretaries of the Association and James K. Bracken from Templemore, County Tipperary.[12] P.S. O'Hegarty, a former member of the Supreme Council of the Brotherhood,[13] suggested that they were probably all Fenians but at least four of the seven were.[14] Also present were Joseph Ryan, a local solicitor, John McKay, a journalist from Belfast, and St. George McCarthy, a District Inspector of the RIC in Templemore. It seems likely according to Mandle that William Foley, from Carrick-on-Suir, Dwyer Culhane, William Delahunty, John Butler and Michael Cantwell, all from Thurles, were also present. Another leading IRB member, John Sweeney from Loughrea, was prevented through illness from being present.[9][12] The IRB by 1886 dominated the GAA executive and Cusack was ousted as secretary.[15][16] It is noteworthy that the English game of cricket almost became a GAA sport, losing out on the votes of two county Kerry representatives. Aims The initial plan was to resurrect the ancient Tailteann Games and establish an independent Irish organisation for promoting athletics, but hurling and Gaelic football eventually predominated. The following goals were set out: 1. To foster and promote native Irish pastimes 2. To open athletics to all social classes 3. To aid in the establishment of hurling and football clubs which would organise matches between counties The Gaelic Athletic Association in the twentieth century In 1918 the GAA was banned by the British government, but Gaelic games were still played.[17] It was very closely associated with the nationalist cause[18] and got caught up in the troubled politics of the age. In 1919, the association took a decision to expel any civil servants who had taken the Oath of Allegiance.[19] In November 1920, RIC policemen and British soldiers entered Croke Park during a football match between Tipperary and Dublin. They fired indiscriminately into the crowd and onto the field, killing 14 people, as a reprisal for political violence that had taken place earlier in the day elsewhere in Dublin. The day came to be known as Bloody Sunday and one of the stands in Croke Park was subsequently named after Michael Hogan, a Tipperary footballer who was among the dead.[20] In 1922 the GAA gave up the task of promoting athletics to the National Athletic and Cycling Association.[21] In 1984 the GAA celebrated its hundredth year in existence. The centenary was celebrated with numerous events throughout the island. The All-Ireland Senior Hurling Championship final was played in Semple Stadium in Thurles to honour the town in which the GAA was founded. 254 Gaelic Athletic Association Competitions Further information: GAA Competitions Domestic The GAA organises competitive games in both codes and at all levels from youth to senior. The highest level of competitions in the GAA are the inter-county All-Ireland Championships where the counties of Ireland compete to win the Provincial championships, All-Ireland Senior Football Championship and All-Ireland Senior Hurling Championship. Before 1892, the winning club in each county championship contested the All-Ireland championship representing their county. In 1892, Congress granted permission for the winning club in each county championship to use players from other clubs in the county. This evolved into the modern practice of county teams consisting of players selected from various clubs throughout the county. The inter-county All-Ireland championships have become the most prestigious competitions in the GAA and major national sporting events. The All-Ireland finals attract capacity crowds of over 80,000 at Croke Park, domestic television audiences on a par with international soccer and rugby, and worldwide viewing audiences. The annual championships are preceded by national inter-county leagues in both football and hurling. Internationals While some units of the GAA outside Ireland participate in Irish competitions, the GAA does not hold internationals played according to the rules of either Gaelic football or hurling. Compromise rules have been reached with two "related sports." Hurlers play an annual fixture against a national shinty team from Scotland. International Rules Football matches have taken place between an Irish national team drawn from the ranks of Gaelic footballers, against an Australian national team drawn from the Australian Football League. The venue alternates between Ireland and Australia. In December 2006 the International series between Australia and Ireland was called off due to excessive violence in the matches,[22] but resumed in October 2008 when Ireland won a two test series in Australia.[23] Modern challenges The association today defines itself as "a National Organisation which has as its basic aim the strengthening of the National Identity in a 32 County Ireland through the preservation and promotion of Gaelic games and pastimes."[24] Additional aims of the association are stated as: 1. To actively support the Irish language, traditional Irish dancing, music, song, Lights display in Croke Park to mark the Gaelic Athletic Association's 125th and other aspects of Irish culture. It shall anniversary, after the opening game of the 2009 National Football League foster an awareness and love of the national ideals in the people of Ireland, and assist in promoting a community spirit through its clubs. 2. To promote its aims amongst communities abroad through its overseas units. 3. To support the promotion of Camogie and Ladies Gaelic Football. 255 Gaelic Athletic Association 4. To support Irish industry by sourcing equipment from Irish manufacturers.[24] Ireland has changed rapidly since the mid 1990s. EU enlargement, combined with the Celtic Tiger economy, had led to substantial immigration particularly from the EU's new member states in Eastern Europe.[25] This means that part of the country's population is now outside the traditional native-born family structure through which the GAA tradition was passed from generation to generation, and the organisation has little experience in marketing itself to those unfamiliar with Gaelic games. The GAA has launched a number of projects to attract non-traditional members such as consulting with the Australian Football League[26] and running leagues aimed at non-Irish nationals.[27][28] Other challenges for the GAA include increasing urbanisation,[29][30][31] and the impact of emigration trends on the GAA's activities outside Ireland. Declining emigration during the Celtic Tiger years of the early 21st century, combined with tighter US immigration restrictions, led to a decline in the number of clubs in the USA,[32] but the subsequent collapse of the Irish economy led to a resumption of emigration and growth of international GAA clubs. Despite the large Irish diaspora, Gaelic games remain fairly low-profile outside the Irish expatriate community. Initiatives such as full-time development officers, and high-profile competitions such as the Continental Youth Championship and a North American College Hurling Championship currently contested between UC Berkeley and Stanford, are helping to bring the games to non-Irish people, while the British GAA is promoting Gaelic games to youth in Britain.[33] Structure Further information: Structure of the GAA The GAA is a democratic association consisting of various boards, councils, and committees organised in a structured hierarchy, and the basic unit of the association is the club.[34][35][36][37] Its world headquarters are at Croke Park. All of the association's activities are governed by internal statutes compiled as the Official Guide (Treoir Oifigiúil). Each County Board may have its own by-laws, none of which may conflict with the Official Guide. Each Divisional Board may have its own regulations, none of which may duplicate or contradict the Official Guide or county by-laws. The key elements are: • • • • • Annual Congress President Central Council Provincial councils County Board • Divisional Board (in larger counties) • Sport specific board (in some counties) • Club Committee All of these bodies are elected on a democratic basis and the members are volunteers. Paid staff are employed at national, provincial and county level in administrative, coaching, development and other roles, but most counties have few employees and few clubs have any. The highest office in the organisation is that of President (Uachtarán), currently held by Liam O'Neill who was elected in 2012 for a four-year term succeeding Christy Cooney. The President travels across Ireland and internationally to promote the organisation and attend games; Cooney's predecessor Nickey Brennan travelled over 250000 kilometres (unknown operator: u'strong' mi) in Ireland alone during his three years as President, and visited Great Britain, Europe, North America, Asia, Australia and the Middle East on several occasions, meeting dignitaries such as New York City mayor Michael Bloomberg along the way.[38] The Director General (Irish: Ard Stiúrthóir) of the Association is the person who leads the executive work of the Association and oversees the work of the full-time staff. The current holder of the post is former Monaghan County 256 Gaelic Athletic Association 257 Board Chairman Paraic Duffy who was appointed in 2008. Cultural activities Through a division of the association known as Scór (Irish for "score") the GAA promotes Irish cultural activities, running competitions in music, singing, dancing and storytelling. Rule 4 of the Official Guide states: The Association shall actively support the Irish language, traditional Irish dancing, music, song, and other aspects of Irish culture. It shall foster an awareness and love of the national ideals in the people of Ireland, and assist in promoting a community spirit through its clubs.[39] The group was formally founded in 1969, and is promoted through various GAA clubs throughout Ireland (as well as some clubs outside of Ireland). Cultural impact The Gaelic Athletic Association has grown to become the largest and most popular sporting organisation in Ireland with over 1 million members including those in clubs beyond the island of Ireland (referred to as overseas units). It has more than 2,600 member clubs, of which 300 are outside Ireland,[4] and manages about 500 grounds throughout the world.[5][40][41][42] The extinction of the Gaelic games of hurling and the native style of football was averted in the nineteenth century.[43][44] The rules of both hurling and football were standardised,[45] which helped to spur the growth of the modern games since they were now being organised on a structured basis. Hurling and Gaelic football have become the most popular spectator sports in the Republic of Ireland;[5] 1,962,769 attendances were recorded at senior inter-county hurling and football championship games in 2003[46] while 60% of all attendances to sports events in the Republic of Ireland were at Gaelic games, with 34% of the total going to Gaelic football and 23% to hurling. Soccer is the closest rival with 16%.[5] This presence means that the GAA has become a major player in the sporting life of Ireland and in the country's cultural life though its Scór section.[47] The association is recognised as a major generator of social capital thanks to its promotion of healthy pastimes, volunteering, and community involvement.[7] Grounds The GAA has many stadiums in Ireland and beyond. Every county, and nearly all clubs, have grounds on which to play their home games, with varying capacities and utilities. The hierarchical structure of the GAA is applied to the use of grounds. Clubs play at their own grounds for the early rounds of the club championship, while the latter rounds from quarter-finals to finals are usually held at a county ground, i.e. the ground where the Inter county games take place or where the county board is based. For example, a team like Gweedore GAA will play most of its games at Páirc Mhic Eiteagáin, if they reach the final of the club championship then the game will be played in MacCumhail Park, Ballybofey. Áras Mhic Eiteagáin clubhouse in Gweedore, Co. Donegal. These grounds resemble the typical clubhouses to be found in rural areas all over Ireland. The provincial championship finals are usually played at the same venue every year. However, there have been exceptions such as in Ulster, where in 2004 and 2005 the Ulster Football Finals were played in Croke Park, due Gaelic Athletic Association to the fact that the anticipated attendance was likely to far exceed the capacity of the traditional venue of St Tiernach's Park, Clones. Croke Park Croke Park is the GAA's flagship venue and is known colloquially as Croker or Headquarters, since the venue doubles as the GAA's base. With a capacity of 82,300, it ranks among the top five stadiums in Europe by capacity, having undergone extensive renovations for most of the 1990s and early 21st century. Every September, Croke Park hosts the All-Ireland inter-county Hurling and Football Finals as the conclusion to the summer championships. Croke Park holds the All-Ireland club football and hurling finals on every St. Patrick's Day. Other grounds The next three biggest grounds are all in Munster – Semple Stadium in Thurles, Co. Tipperary, with a capacity of 53,000, the Gaelic Grounds in Limerick, which holds 50,000 and Páirc Uí Chaoimh, Co. Cork, which can accommodate 43,500. Other notable grounds include: • McHale Park in Castlebar, the largest stadium in Connacht (and in the northern half of the country); • • • • • Pearse Stadium in Galway, which has hosted International rules football series games; St Tiernach's Park in Clones, County Monaghan, hosts most Ulster finals; Fitzgerald Stadium in Killarney: some Munster Finals are also held here; Páirc Uí Rinn, also in Cork, a former League of Ireland soccer ground. St. Jarlath's Park (known as Tuam Stadium) in Galway, host to most Connacht Finals. Nationalism and community relations Nationalism The speed of the association's early growth was attributed to its role as part of the larger Gaelic cultural revival which was closely associated with Irish nationalism.[48][49][50][51][52] Michael Cusack, one of the leading founders of the GAA, stated that he wished to ‘nationalise and democratise sport in Ireland’ and to revive and promote Gaelic Ireland whilst discouraging anglicisation.[44] The GAA's nationalist aspect was further enhanced upon its creation with the appointment of Charles Stewart Parnell, leader of the Irish Parliamentary Party, and Michael Davitt, head of the Land League, to become patrons of the association, whilst the nationalist MP, William O'Brien, offered to provide space for weekly articles and notices within his newspaper, United Ireland. In its early years the association was infiltrated by the Irish Republican Brotherhood, whose members rose to prominent positions such as president and chairman, with them eventually gaining control of the associations central executive in 1887.[44] Divisions between constitutional and revolutionary nationalism came to the fore in the association and the politicisation of the GAA was reflected in the naming of clubs indicating support for either the Irish Parliamentary Party or the Fenians, for example: the Parnells, the Davitts, the Ballina Stephenites, and the Kickhams. However, IRB dominance within the GAA central executive came to an end on 4 January 1888, when they were outnumbered and ousted from the organisation, and saw them going underground.[44] 258 Gaelic Athletic Association Protestant and unionist alienation in Northern Ireland The GAA’s nationalist ethos secured support amongst the Catholic and nationalist community, but also opposition within the Protestant and unionist community. In Northern Ireland, the sports are played almost exclusively by members of the mainly Catholic nationalist community.[53][54] While the GAA's tendency towards overt nationalism has waned,[55] some practices still remain in place which raise concerns in Northern Ireland[56] where the Protestant unionist population still largely considers itself excluded from the games by a political ethos[57][58][59] despite rules that prohibit sectarianism or involvement in party politics.[60] The Irish tricolour is flown at all GAA matches and Amhrán na bhFiann, the national anthem of the Republic, is played or sung at major fixtures. Some GAA grounds, clubs, competitions and trophies are named after nationalists or republicans, such as Sam Maguire, Seán Treacy, John Mitchel, Theobald Wolfe Tone, and more recently Kevin Lynch.[61][62][63][64] Suspected associations between GAA members and republicans are also said to have deepened mistrust.[65][66] Two incidents of hunger strike commemorations on GAA grounds drew criticism from unionists, even though these events were not officially approved by the GAA.[67][68][69][70] In response to one such incident, the Northern Ireland Assembly passed a motion calling on the Minister of Culture, Arts and Leisure to ensure that no sports club that facilitates a commemoration or glorification of terrorism receives financial support through his Department, either directly or indirectly.[71] Other critics point out that the "parish rule" can appear to align the GAA with the Roman Catholic Church, and the former Rule 42 was criticised for seeming to prohibit the use of GAA facilities for other sports perceived as British (and referred to by some as "garrison games")[20][72][73] or foreign sports. Many GAA members or supporters were killed by loyalist paramilitaries and British security forces during the Troubles, and many clubhouses have been destroyed or damaged in bombings, arson and other attacks.[74][75] As the profile of Gaelic football has been raised in Ulster so too has there been an increase in the number of sectarian attacks on Gaelic clubs in Northern Ireland.[76] Some of the protectionist rules are as follows: Rule 42 ban on other sports in GAA grounds Rule 42 (Rule 5.1 in the 2009 rulebook)[77] prohibits the use of GAA property for games with interests in conflict with the interests of the GAA referred to by some as "garrison games"[20][72][73] or foreign sports. Current rules state that GAA property may only be used for the purpose or in connection with the playing of games controlled by the association. Sports not considered 'in conflict' with the GAA have been permitted. On 16 April 2005 the GAA's congress voted to temporarily relax Rule 42 and allow international Soccer and Rugby to be played in the stadium while Lansdowne Road Football Ground was closed for redevelopment.[78] The first soccer and rugby union games permitted in Croke Park took place in early 2007, the first such fixture being Ireland's home match in the Six Nations Rugby Union Championship against France. In addition to the opening of Croke Park to competing sports, local GAA units have sought to rent their facilities out to other sports organisations for financial reasons in violation of Rule 42.[79][80] The continued existence of Rule 42 has proven to be controversial since the management of Croke Park has been allowed to earn revenue by renting the facility out to competing sports organisations, but local GAA units which own smaller facilities cannot.[79][81] It is also said that it is questionable as to whether or not such rental deals would actually be damaging to the GAA's interests.[79] The parish rule Clubs, which are the basic unit of administration in the GAA, may have their catchment areas defined by the local Roman Catholic parish boundaries.[82][83][84][85] A parish is defined as being, subject to county boundaries, "the district under the jurisdiction of a Parish Priest or Administrator." The purpose of the rule is to ensure that local teams are represented by local players, and to prevent players flocking to a more successful club outside of the local area. The rule was not part of the GAA's original rules and today it is applied in some counties and not in others.[86] 259 Gaelic Athletic Association The rule has become a topic of debate since changing demographics and settlement patterns in Ireland have meant that enforcement of the rule has caused problems for some clubs which face declining numbers and need to amalgamate with clubs in neighbouring parishes.[86] A policy review in 2002 recommended that the rule be relaxed or replaced by county by-laws which can use more modern and relevant means of defining local communities.[86] Defunct rules The GAA has had some notable rules in the past which have since been abolished. Rule 21, instituted in 1897 when it was suspected that Royal Irish Constabulary spies were trying to infiltrate the organization, prohibited members of the British forces from membership of the GAA, and prevented GAA members from attending social events with such people.[87] Support for the ban remained throughout The Troubles, particularly in Northern Ireland where GAA members were often targeted for harassment and abuse by the RUC and British Army.[88] Nonetheless, at a special congress convened in November 2001 the GAA voted by an overwhelming majority to change the rule and allow members of British security forces to play hurling and football.[89][90] Rule 27, sometimes referred to as The Ban, banned GAA members from taking part in or watching non Gaelic games. Punishment for violating this rule was expulsion for the organisation and it remained in place from 1901 until 1971. During that time people such as Douglas Hyde, GAA patron and then President of Ireland, was expelled for attending a soccer international.[91] In order to circumvent the ban members such as Moss Keane would commonly adopt a false name.[92] The last person to be suspended from the GAA for violating Rule 27 was Liam Madden, an architect and member of Longford GAA in 1969[93] Cross-community outreach in Ulster The GAA points out the role of members of minority religions in the association throughout its history. For example the Protestant Jack Boothman was president of the organisation from 1993 to 1997, while Sam Maguire was a Church of Ireland member. Nonetheless, to address concerns of unionists, the GAA's Ulster Council has embarked on a number of initiatives aimed at making the association and Gaelic games more accessible to northern Protestants. In November 2008 the council launched a Community Development Unit which is responsible for "Diversity and Community Outreach initiatives".[94] The Cúchulainn Initiative is a cross-community program aimed at establishing teams consisting of Catholic and Protestant schoolchildren with no prior playing experience.[95] Cross-community teams such as the Belfast Cuchulainn under-16 hurling team have been established and gone on to compete at the Continental Youth Championship in America.[95] Similar hurling and Gaelic football teams have since emerged in Armagh, Fermanagh, Limavady.[96] The ‘Game of three halves’ cross-community coaching initiative was established in predominantly Protestant east Belfast in 2006. Organised through Knock Presbyterian Church, this scheme brings GAA coaches to work alongside their soccer and rugby counterparts to involve primary school children at summer coaching camps.[97][98] The Ulster Council is also establishing cross-community football and hurling teams in schools and is developing links with the Ulster-Scots Agency and the Church of Ireland.[98] The Council has also undertaken a series of meetings with political parties and community groups who would have traditionally have had no involvement in the GAA.[98] 260 Gaelic Athletic Association Other community outreach In January 2011 President Mary McAleese announced the launch of an island-wide project called the GAA Social Initiative. This aims to address the problem of isolation in rural areas where older people have limited engagement with the community.[99] The initiative was later expanded by teaming up with the Irish Farmers Association to integrate that organisation's volunteers into the initiative.[100] Winter training ban To address concerns about player burnout, the GAA adopted a rule in 2007 that prohibited collective training for inter-county players for a period of two months every winter.[101] This has proven to be controversial in that it is difficult to enforce, and in the drive to stay competitive, managers have found ways to get around it such as organising informal 'athletic clubs' and other activities which they can use to work on the physical fitness of players without overtly appearing to be training specifically at Gaelic games.[102] References [1] Wilson, Bill. "Doing sports business the GAA way" (http:/ / news. bbc. co. uk/ 2/ low/ business/ 7962884. stm). BBC News. . Retrieved 2008-03-03. [2] "The GAA in Ulster" (http:/ / ulster. gaa. ie/ wp-content/ uploads/ The-GAA-in-Ulster. pdf?PHPSESSID=901e9a062bda472aee4718ee43cb0199). . Retrieved 2010-08-05. [3] "sponsorship: A Successful Partnership between the GAA and Guinness" (http:/ / www. business2000. ie/ pdf/ pdf_4/ guinness_4th_ed. pdf). . Retrieved 2010-08-05. [4] "Remarks by President McAleese" (http:/ / www. president. ie/ index. php?section=5& speech=790& lang=eng). . Retrieved 2010-08-05. [5] "The Social Significance of Sport" (http:/ / www. esri. ie/ pdf/ BKMNINT180_Main Text_Social and Economic Value of Sport. pdf). . Retrieved 2006-11-27. [6] McKernan, Michael; McQuade, Owen (2005). Michael McKernan. ed. Northern Ireland Yearbook 2005: A Comprehensive Reference Guide to the Political, Economic and Social Life of Northern Ireland (http:/ / books. google. com/ ?id=NFvRuoZLsQMC& pg=PA455& dq="gaelic+ football+ has+ now+ become+ the+ largest+ participation+ sport+ in+ northern+ ireland"& q="gaelic football has now become the largest participation sport in northern ireland"). Owen McQuade. The Stationery Office. p. 455. ISBN 978-0-9546284-2-0. . Retrieved 2010-06-16. [7] "ESRI Report: Social and Economic Value of Sport in Ireland" (http:/ / www. esri. ie/ news_events/ press_releases_archive/ 2005/ social_and_economic_value/ index. xml). . Retrieved 2006-12-22. [8] Mandle, W.F. (1987). The Gaelic Athletic Association & Irish Nationalist Politics 1884–1924. Gill and Macmillan. pp. 6. ISBN 0-7171-1509-7.. [9] de Búrca, Marcus (1980). The GAA: A History. Cumann Lúthchleas Gael. pp. 21. ISBN 0 950722 1 3. [10] Fearghal McGarry, James McConnel (2009). The Black Hand of Republicanism: Fenianism in Modern Ireland. Irish Academic Press. pp. 72–3. ISBN 978-0-7165-3000-8. [11] This is, according to McGarry & McConnell, a view shared by Matthew Kelly, author of The Fenian Ideal and Irish Nationalism, 1822–1916 (The Boydell Press 2006), ISBN 978-1-84383-445-8, Owen McGee, The IRB: The Irish Republican Brotherhood from the Land League to Sinn Féin (Four Courts Press 2005), ISBN 978-1-84682-064-9, and W.F. Mandle, The Gaelic Athletic Association & Irish Nationalist Politics 1884–1924 (Gill and Macmillan 1987), ISBN 0-7171-1509-7. This is also supported by Patrick Purcell in "The Secret Origin of the GAA", The Bell June 1946, Vol. XII No.3, pp.217–29. See also David Fitzpatrick, Harry Boland's Irish Revolution (Cork University Press 2003), ISBN 1-85918-386-7, p. 19, [12] Mandle, W.F. (1987). The Gaelic Athletic Association & Irish Nationalist Politics 1884–1924. Gill and Macmillan. pp. 7. ISBN 0-7171-1509-7.. [13] Curtis, Keiron (2010). P.S. O'Hegarty (1879–1955) Sinn Féin Fenian. Anthem Press. pp. 4. ISBN 978-1-84331-859-0. [14] O'Hegarty, P.S. (1952). A History of Ireland Under the Union 1801 to 1922. Methuen & Co. Ltd. pp. 611. [15] de Búrca, Marcus (1980). The GAA A History. Cumann Lúthchleas Gael. pp. 32–34. ISBN 0 950722 1 3. [16] Mandle, W.F. (1987). The Gaelic Athletic Association & Irish Nationalist Politics 1884–1924. Gill and Macmillan. pp. 30–31. ISBN 0-7171-1509-7. [17] "Gaelic football, Hurling are Irish Passions" (http:/ / news. nationalgeographic. com/ news/ 2002/ 03/ 0308_020315_gaelicsports_2. html). . Retrieved 2006-11-27. [18] Connolly, S. J. (2007). Oxford Companion to Irish History (3rd ed.). Oxford University Press.. pp. 222–226. ISBN 978-0-19-923483-7. [19] "GAA Museum Irish Times Archive" (http:/ / www. crokepark. ie/ gaa-museum/ gaa-archive/ gaa-museum-irish-times-articles/ the-gaa;-1916-1924). . Retrieved 2010-07-25. [20] "A long way from Dublin's bloody past" (http:/ / news. bbc. co. uk/ 1/ hi/ programmes/ from_our_own_correspondent/ 6324541. stm). BBC News. 3 February 2007. . Retrieved 2010-05-03. 261 Gaelic Athletic Association [21] "The Origins of the GAA" (http:/ / www. obrien. ie/ files/ extracts/ PocketGAA-Sample. pdf). . Retrieved 2007-01-05. [22] "International Rules Series games confirmed" (http:/ / www. rte. ie/ sport/ gaa/ championship/ 2008/ 0529/ rules. html?gaa). RTÉ. 29 May 2008. . Retrieved 2008-07-30. [23] "Ireland clinch series win at MCG" (http:/ / news. bbc. co. uk/ sport1/ hi/ northern_ireland/ gaelic_games/ 7701843. stm). BBC. 31 October 2008. . Retrieved 2008-11-05. [24] n "GAA official guide 2008" (http:/ / www. gaa. ie/ files/ official_guides/ official_guide1_june10. pdf). n. 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[30] "Leinster population trends 'big challenge'" (http:/ / www. irishexaminer. com/ text/ story. asp?j=kfgbmheymhojmh& p=y63438z& n=1634417). . Retrieved 2008-03-03. [31] "GAA club officer seminar in GMIT" (http:/ / www. galwayindependent. com/ sport/ sport/ gaa-club-officer-seminar-in-gmit). . Retrieved 2008-03-03. [32] Dougherty, Conor (26 July 2007). "Hurlingin America Has a Problem -Too Few Irishme" (http:/ / online. wsj. com/ article/ SB118541380907978494. html?mod=todays_us_nonsub_page_one). The Wall Street Journal. . Retrieved 2008-03-03. [33] "Warwickshire Schools GAA" (http:/ / www. wsgaa. co. uk/ wmsgaaHome. jsp). . Retrieved 2008-03-03. [34] "1.9 Units/Jurisdiction. The Association is a democratic organisation comprising the following units: (a) Clubs (b) County Committees (c) Provincial Councils (d) Central Council (e) Annual CongressOfficial Guide 2008" (http:/ / www. gaa. ie/ files/ official_guides/ 2009_official_guide_part1. pdf). . Retrieved 2009-09-23. 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Roscommon Herald. 13 May 2009. . Retrieved 2009-09-24. [38] "From Slieverue to Sydney and all places in between, the President probably got there" (http:/ / www. kilkennypeople. ie/ sport/ From-Slieverue-to-Sydney-and. 5284899. jp). Kilkenny People. 20 May 2009. . Retrieved 2009-06-13. [39] "GAAs Official Guide" (http:/ / www. gaa. ie/ files/ pdf/ official_guides_2006_p1. pdf). . Retrieved 2008-03-03. [40] Go Ireland "The gaelic athletic association" (http:/ / www. goireland. com/ scripts/ low/ xq/ asp/ areaid. 3148/ areatype. T/ cat. 0/ SubjectID. 185/ PremisesID. 12953/ qx/ premises. htm). Go Ireland. Retrieved 2008-03-03. [41] "Organisation of the GAA" (http:/ / www. gaa. ie/ page/ about_the_gaa. html). . Retrieved 2008-02-04. [42] Scanlan, Margaret (2006-03). Culture and Customs of Ireland (http:/ / books. google. com/ ?id=882Lk5sxfmwC& printsec=frontcover). Greenwood Publishing Group. ISBN 978-0-313-33162-6. . Retrieved 2008-04-26. [43] Jarvie, Grant (24 August 1999). 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(2000), "Catholics and Sport in Northern Ireland: Exclusiveness or Inclusiveness?", International Sports Studies, Volume 22, Number 1, 2000, p.26. Available at (http:/ / www. la84foundation. org/ SportsLibrary/ ISS/ ISS2201/ ISS2201d. pdf). Viewed 18 09 2009. [55] Moran, Sean (23 March 2011). "GAA wary of starting on rocky road to change" (http:/ / www. irishtimes. com/ newspaper/ sport/ 2011/ 0323/ 1224292848990. html). The Irish Times. . Retrieved 23 March 2011. [56] "Sport and Community Relations in Northern Ireland" (http:/ / cain. ulst. ac. uk/ csc/ reports/ sugdenharvie/ sugdenharvie95-1. htm). . Retrieved 2008-07-28. [57] Cronin, M. (2000). "Catholics and Sport in Northern Ireland: Exclusiveness or Inclusiveness?" (http:/ / www. la84foundation. org/ SportsLibrary/ ISS/ ISS2201/ ISS2201d. pdf). 'International Sports Studies', Volume 22, Number 1, 2000. pp. 26, 33–34. . [58] John Sugden and Scott Harvie (1995). 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BBC News. 20 August 2009. . Retrieved 2011-01-18. [71] Northern Ireland Assembly: Official Report, Monday 21 September 2009. [72] Paul Ward (2004), Britishness since 1870. p. 79, London: Routledge [73] Tim Pat Coogan (2000), Wherever the Green Is Worn, p.179. New York:Palgrave. [74] "CAIN: Chronology of the Conflict 1991" (http:/ / cain. ulst. ac. uk/ othelem/ chron/ ch91. htm#81091). . Retrieved 2008-03-03. [75] "CAIN: Chronology of the Conflict 1997" (http:/ / cain. ulst. ac. uk/ othelem/ chron/ ch97. htm#12597). . Retrieved 2008-03-03. [76] Dr Martin Melaugh. "Sugden Harvie report, section 1.5.2" (http:/ / cain. ulst. ac. uk/ csc/ reports/ sugdenharvie/ sugdenharvie95-1. htm). Cain.ulst.ac.uk. . Retrieved 2011-01-18. [77] "2009 official guide part1" (http:/ / www. gaa. ie/ files/ official_guides/ 2009_official_guide_part1. pdf). . Retrieved 2010-01-07. [78] "Ireland must wait to enjoy Croke craic" (http:/ / www. planetrugby. com/ Story/ 0,18259,3551_1902765,00. html). . Retrieved 2007-02-11. [79] Martin Breheny (5 March 2011). "State of the Game" (http:/ / www. independent. ie/ sport/ gaelic-football/ state-of-the-game-2566875. html). Irish Independent. . Retrieved 2011-0-09. [80] Donnchadh Boyle (9 December 2010). "Facilities for GAA use only: Cooney" (http:/ / www. independent. ie/ sport/ gaelic-football/ facilities-for-gaa-use-only-cooney-2454052. html). Irish Independent. . Retrieved 2011-03-09. [81] O'Rourke, Colm (13 March 2011). "There is no more room for vanity projects in the GAA" (http:/ / www. independent. ie/ opinion/ columnists/ colm-orourke/ colm-orourke-there-is-no-more-room-for-vanity-projects-in-the-gaa-2577493. html). Sunday Independent. . Retrieved 14 March 2011. [82] "A Parish for the purpose of this Rule shall, subject to County boundaries, be the district under the jurisdiction of a Parish Priest or Administrator." Official guide 2008" (http:/ / www. gaa. ie/ files/ gaa_official_guide2003. pdf). . Retrieved 2008-03-03. [83] Garnham, N: Association Football and society in pre-partition Ireland, page 134. Ulster Historical Foundation, 2004. [84] "... the GAA’s great strength is that it is by and large based on the parish unit, as players go out to represent their families, their parish and their club.", Dungarvan Observer (http:/ / dungarvanobserver. ie/ wordpress/ ?p=407) [85] "And they're games that were incredibly well suited to rural Ireland at that time, because the GAA's master stroke was basing the organisation of the games around the local parishes.", Mike Cronin, speaking on "Irish Sport & Nationalism", The Sports Factor, Radio National [Australia], 19/01/01. Available here (http:/ / fulltext. ausport. gov. au/ fulltext/ 2001/ sportsf/ s226378. htm). [86] "Parish or ‘Perish’ Rule?" (http:/ / www. anfearrua. com/ story. asp?id=1804). An Fear Rua. 26 September 2005. . Retrieved 11 March 2011. [87] "GAA delegates vote to allow cops, soldiers" (http:/ / irishecho. com/ ?p=52479). Irish Echo. 15 August 2001. . Retrieved 2011-02-28. [88] "Battle of the Ban" (http:/ / www. independent. ie/ unsorted/ features/ battle-of-the-ban-325247. html). Irish Independent. 3 November 2001. . Retrieved 2011-03-02. 263 Gaelic Athletic Association [89] "Rule 21 is ‘history’ says GAA president – Northern Ireland News" (http:/ / www. 4ni. co. uk/ northern_ireland_news. asp?id=11850). 4ni.co.uk. 19 November 2001. . Retrieved 2011-01-18. [90] "GAA sanctions Rule 21 abolition" (http:/ / www. rte. ie/ news/ 2005/ 0924/ gaa. html). Rte.ie. 24 September 2005. . Retrieved 2011-01-18. [91] "The Gaelic Athletic Association (GAA) – A Governing Body" (http:/ / goireland. about. com/ od/ historyculture/ qt/ gg_gaa. htm). . Retrieved 2011-03-10. [92] "Farming: Still Keane" (http:/ / www. farmersjournal. ie/ site/ farming-Still-Keane-9320. html). . Retrieved 2011-03-10. [93] http:/ / www. thephoenix. ie/ phoenix/ subscriber/ library/ volume-29/ issue-15/ contents. pdf [94] "Ulster Council to launch new strategic unit" (http:/ / www. irishnews. com/ appnews/ 597/ 5776/ 2008/ 11/ 11/ 602592_363117117465UlsterCou. html). The Irish News: p. 42. 11 November 2008. . Retrieved 11 November 2008. [95] "Ulster GAA annual report published" (http:/ / www. irishdigest. com/ ?p=5072). . Retrieved 2011-02-28. [96] "McAleese honours GAA team" (http:/ / www. u. tv/ Sport/ McAleese-honours-GAA-team/ 604edf7a-fb46-4099-8691-3ea31d37c0c2). UTV. 25 October 2010. . Retrieved 2011-02-28. [97] "Ulster GAA Club & Community Development Conference – 15 November 2008" (http:/ / www. dsdni. gov. uk/ print/ index/ publications/ ministers_speeches/ dsd-ministers-speech-ulster-gaa. htm). 15 November 2008. . Retrieved 2011-02-28. [98] "Council making plans" (http:/ / www. irishnews. com/ searchlog. asp?reason=denied_empty& script_name=/ pageacc. asp& path_info=/ pageacc. asp& tser1=ser& sid=600703). The Irish News: p. 44. 21 October 2008. . Retrieved 2008-10-22. [99] John O'Brien (20 February 2011). "No more hiding places in the battle against rural isolation" (http:/ / www. independent. ie/ sport/ gaelic-football/ no-more-hiding-places-in-the-battle-against-rural-isolation-2548074. html). Irish Independent. . Retrieved 2011-03-02. [100] "GAA Social Initiative to Expand with Stronger Links Between IFA and GAA" (http:/ / www. ifa. ie/ News/ tabid/ 640/ ctl/ Detail/ mid/ 2250/ xmid/ 4314/ xmfid/ 23/ Default. aspx). Irish Farmers Association. 2 March 2011. . Retrieved 2011-03-02. [101] William Nestor (3 December 2010). "The winter training ban, player expenses and burn-out" (http:/ / www. joe. ie/ gaa/ gaa-features/ the-winter-training-ban-player-expenses-and-burn-out-007552-1). JOE.ie. . Retrieved 2011-03-10. [102] Eugene McGee (3 January 2011). "Eugene McGee: Stop driving players away – scrap winter training ban" (http:/ / www. independent. ie/ opinion/ columnists/ eugene-mcgee/ eugene-mcgee-stop-driving-players-away-scrap-winter-training-ban-2481494. html). Irish Independent. . Retrieved 2011-03-10. External links • • • • GAA official website (http://www.gaa.ie/) GAA TV website (http://tv.gaa.ie/) GAA Roll of Honour (http://gaaweb.sitesuite.cn/page/roll_of_honour2.html/) An Fear Rua: The GAA Unplugged! (http://www.anfearrua.ie/) – analysis, discussion forums, satire and humour on GAA topics. • Hogan Stand (http://www.hoganstand.com/) • GAAinfo (http://www.gaainfo.com) – Results, Statistics and Information • Radio Beo (http://www.radiobeo.com/) – Live commentary from club games, on the Internet. Other links • • • • National GAA Results and Fixtures on Aertel (http://www.rte.ie/aertel/240-01.html) GAA World (http://www.irishnews.com/gaaworld/home.html) by The Irish News Index of GAA club sites (http://www.clubgaa.ie/) Michael Cusack Visitor Centre (http://www.michaelcusack.ie/) 264 Hurling 265 Hurling Hurling Hurling being played in Philadelphia, USA Highest governing body Gaelic Athletic Association Nickname(s) Iománaíocht, iomáint, iomáin First played Ireland Characteristics Contact Contact Team members 15 players per side substitutes are permitted Mixed gender Camogie is the female variant Equipment Sliotar (ball) Hurley/camán (stick) Helmet Hurling (Irish: Iománaíocht/Iomáint) is an outdoor team game of ancient Gaelic origin, administered by the Gaelic Athletic Association. The game has prehistoric origins, has been played for over 9,000 years,[1] and is thought to be the world's fastest field team game in terms of game play.[1][2][3] One of Ireland's native Gaelic games, it shares a number of features with Gaelic football, such as the field and goals, number of players, and much terminology. There is a similar game for women called camogie (camógaíocht). It shares a common Gaelic root with the sport of shinty (camanachd) which is played predominantly in Scotland. The object of the game is for players to use a wooden stick called a hurley (in Irish a camán, pronounced /ˈkæmən/) to hit a small ball called a sliotar ( /ˈʃlɪtər/) between the opponents' goalposts either over the crossbar for one point, or under the crossbar into a net guarded by a goalkeeper for one goal, which is equivalent to three points. The sliotar can be caught in the hand and carried for not more than four steps, struck in the air, or struck on the ground with the hurley. It can be kicked or slapped with an open hand (the hand pass) for short-range passing. A player who wants to carry the ball for more than four steps has to bounce or balance the sliotar on the end of the stick and the ball can only be handled twice while in his possession. Baiting people is allowed although body-checking or shoulder-charging is illegal. No protective padding is worn by players. A plastic protective helmet with faceguard is mandatory for all age groups, including senior level, as of 2010. The game has been described as "a bastion of humility", with player names absent from jerseys and a player's number decided by his position on the field.[1] Hurling is played throughout the world, and is popular among members of the Irish diaspora in North America, Europe, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa and Argentina. In many parts of Ireland, it is a fixture of life.[1] It has featured regularly in art forms such as film and literature. In 2007, Forbes magazine described the media attention and population multiplication of Thurles town ahead of one of the game's annual provincial hurling finals as being "the rough equivalent of 30 million Americans watching a regional lacrosse game".[1] U.S. soldiers have also expressed their love of the game's warrior ethos.[4][5] Hurling 266 Statistics • A team comprises 15 players, or "hurlers" • The hurley is generally 79–100 cm (31–40 inches) in length • The ball, known as a sliotar, has a cork center and a leather cover; it is between 69 and 72 mm in diameter, and weighs between 110 and 120 g • The goalkeeper's hurley usually has a bas (the flattened, curved end) twice the size of other players' hurleys to provide some advantage against the fast moving sliotar • A good strike with a hurley can propel the ball up to and over 150 km/h (93 mph) in speed and 110 metres (unknown operator: u'strong' ft) in distance Hurley and sliotar (Irish; Camán agus sliotar) • A ball hit over the bar is worth one point. A ball that is hit under the bar is called a goal and is worth three points • As of 2010 all players must wear a helmet, and may wear other protection such as shinguards and/or a special kind of glove called an ashguard. Rules A club hurling match in play. Hurling 267 Playing field Hurling is played on a pitch 135 – 145 m long and 80 – 90 m wide. The goals at each end of the field are formed by two posts, which are usually 6 m high, set 6.4 m apart, and connected 2.44 m above the ground by a crossbar. A net extending in back of the goal is attached to the crossbar and lower goal posts. The same pitch is used for Gaelic football; the GAA, which organises both sports, decided this to facilitate dual usage. Lines are marked at 13 m, 20 m, 65 m and 45 m in gaelic football from each end-line. Shorter pitches and smaller goals are used by under-13s and younger. A standard hurling pitch Teams Teams consist of fifteen players and they line out as below: The panel is made up of 24–30 players and 5 substitutions are allowed per game. No exceptions are ever made. Ball The ball is called sliotar and it is a subject to strict regulations as regards its size, mass and composition.[6] Timekeeping Senior inter-county matches last 70 minutes (35 minutes per half). All other matches last 60 minutes (30 minutes per half). For age groups of under-13 or lower, games may be shortened to 50 minutes. Timekeeping is at the discretion of the referee who adds on stoppage time at the end of each half. If a knockout game finishes in a draw, a replay is played. If a replay finishes in a draw, 20 minutes extra time is played (10 minutes per half). If the game is still tied, another replay is played. In club competitions, replays are increasingly not used due to the fixture backlogs caused. Instead, extra time is played after a draw, and if the game is still level after that it will go to a replay. Hurling 268 Technical fouls The following are considered technical fouls ("fouling the ball"): • • • • • • • • Picking the ball directly off the ground (instead it must be flicked up with the hurley) Throwing the ball (instead it must be "hand-passed": slapped with the open hand) Going more than 4 steps with the ball in the hand (it may be carried indefinitely on the hurley though) Catching the ball three times in a row without it touching the ground (touching the hurley does not count) Putting the ball from one hand to the other Hand-passing a goal Throwing the hurley Square ball: If, at the moment the ball enters "the square" (the small rectangle surrounding the goal), there is already an attacking player inside, a free out is awarded Scoring Scoring is achieved by sending the sliotar (ball) between the opposition's goal posts. The posts, which are at each end of the field, are "H" posts as in rugby football but with a net under the crossbar as in soccer. The posts are 6.4 m apart and the crossbar is 2.44 m above the ground. If the ball goes over the crossbar, a point is scored and a white flag is raised by an umpire. If the ball goes below the crossbar, a goal, worth three points, is scored, and a green flag is raised by an umpire. The goal is guarded by a goalkeeper. Scores are recorded in the format {goal total} – {point total}. For example, the 1997 All-Ireland final finished: Clare 0–20 Tipperary 2–13. Thus Clare won by "twenty points to two thirteen" (20 to 19). 2–0 would be referred to as "two goals", never "two zero". 0–0 is said "no score". Tackling A sliotar being hit in mid-air. Players may be tackled but not struck by a one handed slash of the stick; exceptions are two handed jabs and strikes. Jersey-pulling, wrestling, pushing and tripping are all forbidden. There are several forms of acceptable tackling, the most popular being: • the 'block', where one player attempts to smother an opposing player's strike by trapping the ball between his hurley and the opponent's swinging hurl; • the 'hook', where a player approaches another player from a rear angle and attempts to catch the opponent's hurley with his own at the top of the swing; and • the 'side pull', where two players running together for the sliotar will collide at the shoulders and swing together to win the tackle and "pull" (name given to swing the hurley) with extreme force. Hurling 269 Restarting play • The match begins with the referee throwing the sliotar in between the four midfielders on the halfway line. • After an attacker has scored or put the ball wide of the goals, the goalkeeper may take a 'puckout' from the hand at the edge of the small square. All players must be beyond the 20 m line. • After a defender has put the ball wide of the goals, an attacker may take a "65" from the 65 m line level with where the ball went wide. It must be taken by lifting and striking. However, the ball must not be taken into the hand but struck whilst the ball is lifted. • After a player has put the ball over the sideline, the other team may take a 'sideline cut' at the point where the ball left the pitch. It must be taken from the ground. • After a player has committed a foul, the other team may take a 'free' at the point where the foul was committed. It must be taken by lifting and striking in the same style as the "65". • After a defender has committed a foul inside the Square (large rectangle), the other team may take a 'penalty' from the ground from the centre of the 20 m line. Only the goalkeeper and two defenders may guard the goals. It must be taken by lifting and striking. • If many players are struggling for the ball and no side is able to capitalize or gain control of the sliotar the referee may choose to throw the ball in between two opposing players. This is also known as a 'Clash'. Officials A hurling match is watched over by eight officials: • • • • The referee Two linesmen Sideline official/standby linesman (inter-county games only) Four umpires (two at each end) The referee is responsible for starting and stopping play, recording the score, awarding frees and issuing penalty cards to players after offences. Linesmen are responsible for indicating the direction of line balls to the referee and also for conferring with the referee. The fourth official is responsible for overseeing substitutions, and also indicating the amount of stoppage time (signalled to him by the referee) and the players substituted using an electronic board. The umpires are responsible for judging the scoring. They indicate to the referee whether a shot was: wide (spread both arms), a 65 m puck (raise one arm), a point (wave white flag), or a goal (wave green flag). Contrary to popular belief within the association, all officials are not obliged to indicate "any misdemeanours" to the referee, but are in fact only permitted to inform the referee of violent conduct they have witnessed which has occurred without the referees knowledge. A linesman/umpire is not permitted to inform the referee of technical fouls such as a "Third time in the hand", where a player catches the ball for a third time in succession after soloing or an illegal pick up of the ball. Such decisions can only be made at the discretion of the referee. Helmets From 1 January 2010 the wearing of helmets with faceguards became compulsory for hurlers at all levels. This saw senior players follow the regulations already introduced in 2009 at minor and under 21 grades. The GAA hopes to significantly reduce the number of injuries by introducing the compulsory wearing of helmets with full faceguards, both in training and matches. Hurlers of all ages, including those at nursery clubs when holding a hurley in their hand, must wear a helmet and faceguard at all times. Match officials will be obliged to stop play if any player at any level appears on the field of play without the necessary standard of equipment.[7] Hurling 270 History Further information: History of hurling Hurling is older than the recorded history of Ireland. It is thought to predate Christianity, having come to Ireland with the Celts.[8] It has been a distinct Irish pastime for at least 2000 years.[9] The earliest written references to the sport in Brehon law date from the fifth century.[8] In the book by Seamus King "A History of Hurling" there is a reference from Irish verbal history of hurling as far back as the 1200 B.C being played in Tara co Meath. Hurling is related to the games of shinty that is played primarily in Scotland, cammag on the Isle of Man A standard hurling helmet and bandy that was played formerly in England and Wales. The tale of the Táin Bó Cuailgne (drawing on earlier legends) describes the hero Cúchulainn playing hurling at Emain Macha. Similar tales are told about Fionn Mac Cumhail and the Fianna, his legendary warrior band. Recorded references to hurling appear in many places such as the fourteenth century Statutes of Kilkenny and a fifteenth century grave slab survives in Inishowen, County Donegal[10] Hurling was said to be played in ancient times by teams representing neighbouring villages. Villages would play games involving hundreds of players, which would last several hours or even days.[11] The Eighteenth Century is frequently referred to as "The Golden Age of Hurling". This was when members of the Anglo-Irish landed gentry kept teams of players on their estates and challenged each other's teams to matches for the amusement of their tenants. One of the first modern attempts to standardise the game with a formal, written set of rules came with the foundation of the Irish Hurling Union at Trinity College Dublin in 1879. It aimed "to draw up a code of rules for all clubs in the union and to foster that manly and noble game of hurling in this, its native country".[12] The founding of the Gaelic Athletic Association (GAA) in 1884 turned around a trend of terminal decline by organising the game around a common set of written rules. The 20th century saw greater organisation in hurling and Gaelic football. The all-Ireland hurling championship came into existence along with the provincial championships. Cork, Kilkenny[13] and Tipperary dominated hurling in the 20th century with each of these counties winning more than 20 All-Ireland titles each. Wexford, Waterford, Clare, Limerick, Offaly, Dublin, and Galway were also strong hurling counties during the 20th century. As hurling entered the new millennium, it has remained Ireland's second most popular sport. An extended qualifier system resulted in a longer All-Ireland Senior Hurling Championship, but Cork, Tipperary and Kilkenny have come to dominate the championship and some argue that the All-Ireland has become less competitive. Pay-for-play remains controversial and the Gaelic Players Association continues to grow in strength. The inauguration of the Christy Ring Cup and Nicky Rackard Cup gave new championships and an opportunity to play in Croke Park to the weaker county teams. Further dissemination of the championship structure was completed in 2009 with the addition of the Lory Meagher Cup to make it a 4 tier championship Hurling Scoring since 1910 In North Antrim the art of shouldering an opponent off the ball is known as Sveniing. There are many other colloquialisms throughout Ireland but this is the most prominent one. Hurling 271 Hurling at the Olympic Games In 1904, hurling was an unofficial sport on the 1904 Summer Olympics in St. Louis, Missouri, in the United States. In the final, Fenian F.C. (Chicago) USA beat Innisfails (St. Louis).[14] International Further information: Hurling outside Ireland Although many hurling clubs exist worldwide, only Ireland has a national team (although it includes only players from weaker counties in order to ensure matches are competitive). It and the Scotland shinty team have played for many years with modified match rules (as with International Rules Football). The match is the only such international competition. However, competition at club level has been going on around the world since the late nineteenth century thanks to emigration from Ireland, and the strength of the game has ebbed and flowed along with emigration trends. Nowadays, growth in hurling is noted in Continental Europe, Australia, and North America. 82,000 people at the All-Ireland Hurling final at Croke Park, Dublin in 2009. Britain Hurling was brought to Britain by Irish immigrants in the nineteenth century. The game is administered by British GAA. Warwickshire GAA compete against Irish teams in the Lory Meagher Cup. London GAA are the only non-Irish team to have won the All-Ireland Senior Hurling Championship (having captured the title in 1901), and still compete in the Nicky Rackard Cup. North America References to hurling on the North American continent date from the 1780s in modern-day Canada concerning immigrants from County Waterford and County Kilkenny,[15] and also, in New York City. After the end of the American Revolution, references to hurling cease in American newspapers until the aftermath of the Potato Famine when Irish people moved to America in huge numbers, bringing the game with them.[16] Newspaper reports from the 1850s refer to occasional matches played in San Francisco, Hoboken, and New York City. The first game of hurling played under GAA rules outside of Ireland was played on Boston Common in June 1886. In 1888, there was an American tour by fifty Gaelic athletes from Ireland, known as the 'American Invasion'. This created enough interest among Irish Americans to lay the groundwork for the North American GAA. By the end of 1889, almost a dozen GAA clubs existed in America, many of them in and around New York City, Philadelphia, and Chicago. Later, clubs were formed in Boston, Cleveland, and many other centers of Irish America. Concord, New Hampshire has its state's only hurling team, sponsored by The Barley House Pub. In 1910, twenty-two hurlers, composed of an equal number from Chicago and New York, conducted a tour of Ireland, where they played against the County teams from Kilkenny, Tipperary, Limerick, Dublin, and Wexford. Traditionally, hurling was a game played by Irish immigrants and discarded by their children. Many American hurling teams took to raising money to import players directly from Ireland. In recent years, this has changed Hurling considerably with the advent of the Internet. Outside of the traditional North American GAA cities of New York, Boston, Chicago, and San Francisco, clubs are springing up in other places where they consist of predominantly American-born players who bring a new dimension to the game and actively seek to promote it as a mainstream sport, especially Joe Maher, a leading expert at the sport in Boston.[17] Currently, the Milwaukee Hurling Club, with 300 members, is the largest Hurling club in the world outside of Ireland, which is made of all Americans and very few Irish immigrants. The St. Louis Gaelic Athletic Club [18] was established in 2002 and has expanded its organization to a six team hurling league in the spring and six team Gaelic football league in the fall. The Indianapolis Hurling Club [19] began in 2002 then reformed in 2005. In 2008 the Indy Hurling Club won the Junior C National Championship. In 2011 Indy had 7 club teams and sent a Junior B, Junior C and Camogie team to nationals. Hurling continues to grow in popularity with teams now in Orlando, FL, Augusta, GA, Greenville, SC, Indianapolis, IN, Worcester, MA, Corvallis, OR, Concord, NH, Portland, Maine, Madison, WI and Hartford, Connecticut. The GAA have also begun to invest in American college students with university teams springing up at University of Connecticut, Stanford, California, Purdue, Indiana University and other schools. On 31 January 2009, the first ever US collegiate hurling match was held between California and Stanford, organized by the newly-formed California Collegiate Gaelic Athletic Association. California won the match by 1 point, as well as the most recent best-of-three College Cup, 2 matches to 1. On Memorial Day Weekend of 2011, the first ever National Collegiate GAA championship was played. The Indiana University Hurling Club won all matches of the tournament, and won by four points in the championship final to be crowned the first ever National Collegiate Champions. Argentina Irish immigrants began arriving in Argentina in the 19th century.[20] The earliest reference to hurling in Argentina dates from the late 1880s in Mercedes, Buenos Aires. However, the game was not actively promoted until 1900 when it came to the attention of author and newspaperman William Bulfin. Under Bulfin's patronage, the Argentine Hurling Club was formed on 15 July 1900, leading to teams being established in different neighborhoods of Buenos Aires and the surrounding farming communities. Games of hurling were played every weekend until 1914 and received frequent coverage even from Argentina's Spanish language newspapers, such as La Nación. After the outbreak of World War I, however, it became almost impossible to obtain hurleys from Ireland. An attempt was made to use native Argentine mountain ash, but it proved too heavy and lacking in pliability. Although the game was revived after the end of the war, the golden age of Argentine hurling had passed. World War II finally brought the era to its close. In the aftermath of the Second World War, immigration from Ireland slowed to a trickle. In addition, native born Irish-Argentines assimilated into the local community. The last time that hurling was played in Argentina was in 1980, when the Aer Lingus Hurling Club conducted a three week tour of the country and played matches at several locations.[21] Although the Argentine Hurling Club still exists, it has switched to playing field hockey and rugby. Recent efforts have been made to revive hurling at the club by Mick Connery.[22] Australia and New Zealand The earliest reference to hurling in Australia is related in the book "Sketches of Garryowen." On 12 July 1844 a match took place at Batman's Hill in Melbourne as a counterpoint to a march by the Orange Order. Reportedly, the hurling match attracted a crowd of five hundred Irish immigrants, while the Orange march shivered out of existence.[23] Several hurling clubs existed in Victoria in the 1870s including Melbourne, Collingwood, Upper Yarra, Richmond and Geelong. In 1885, a game between two Sydney based teams took place before a crowd of over ten thousand spectators. Reportedly, the contest was greatly enjoyed despite the fact that one newspaper dubbed the game "Two Degrees Safer Than War."[24] 272 Hurling 273 Arden Street Oval in North Melbourne was used by Irish immigrants during the 1920s. The game in Australasia is administered by Australasia GAA. South Africa Soldiers who served in the Irish Brigade during the Anglo-Boer War are believed to have played the game on the veldt. Immigrants from County Wicklow who had arrived to work in the explosives factory in Umbogintwini, KwaZulu-Natal formed a team c. 1915–1916. A major burst of immigration in the 1920s led to the foundation of the Transvaal Hurling Association in Johannesburg in 1928. Games were traditionally played in a pitch on the site of the modern day Johannesburg Central Railway Station every Easter Sunday after Mass. In 1932, a South African hurling team sailed to Ireland to compete in the Tailteann Games, where they carried a banner donated by a convent of Irish nuns in Cape Town. On their arrival, they were personally received by the Taoiseach (Prime Minister) at the time, Éamon de Valera. South African hurling continued to prosper until the outbreak of World War II, which caused immigration from Ireland to cease and made it impossible to import equipment. Games of hurling and Gaelic football were occasionally sponsored by the Christian Brothers schools in Boksburg and Pretoria well into the 1950s. Both games have all but ceased to be played.[25] Quotes Yesterday, Tuesday, a hurling match took place in the Phoenix Park, which was honored with the presence of Her Excellency, the Countess of Westmoreland, and several of the nobility and gentry, besides a vast concourse of spectators. Much agility and athletic contention was afforded, until the spectators forced into the playing ground. Colonel Lennox, Mr. Daly, and several other gentlemen, most obligingly used their endeavours to prevent any interruption to the players, but to no effect. This active contest ended without either side claiming triumph and remains to be yet decided. —[26] A report from the Dublin newspaper Hibernian Journal, 17 October 1792 On Christmas Day and during the Christmas season we used to have hurley matches, and the whole village used to be mixed up in the game. Two men would be chosen, one from each side, for captains. Each of them used to call up man by man in turns until all who were on the strand were distributed in the two sides. We had hurleys and a ball. The game was played on the white strand without shoes or stockings, and we went in up to our necks whenever the ball went into the sea. Throughout the Twelve Days of Christmas time there wasn't a man able to drive his cow to the hill for the stiffness of his back and his bones; a pair or so would have a bruised foot, and another would be limping on one leg for a month. —[27] Tomás Ó Criomhthain reminiscing about his youth on Great Blasket Island in the years before the regularisation of hurling rules. Translated by Robin Flower There was a grand Hurling Match in the neighborhood of Gort in the county for a considerable sum of Money between the Counties of Galway and Clare; the Hurlers of the latter made a very handsome appearance. They marched from Gort to the Turlough, two miles (3 km) distant, preceded by the Band of Musick, a French horn, a Running Footman and a fellow in Antic or Harlequin Dress. None of the Hurlers was hurt, the greatest harmony having subsisted. The County of Clare Hurlers were elegantly entertained at Crushenehaire the Night following and a Hundred guineas was proposed to be Hurled for, but the time and place not yet agreed. The above procession closed with many Carriages and Horsemen, the numerous company at the Turlough made a fine appearance. —[28] The newspaper Pue's Occurrences, October 16, 1759 27 June 1827, Feast of Saint Peter and Paul. Hurling 274 A holiday... Hurling on the Fair Green. It was a good game. The sticks were being brandished like swords. Hurling is a war-like game. The west side won the first match and the east the second. You could hear the sticks striking the ball from one end of the Green to the other. I was watching from the top end myself with Doctor Céatinn and two priests. The well-to-do young men and women were strolling up and down the Green and on the level causeway in the center. —[29] From the Irish language diaries of Amhlaoibh Ó Súilleabháin, a 19th century schoolmaster and politician from Callan, County Kilkenny. Translated by Tomás de Bhaldraithe. Major hurling competitions Further information: GAA Competitions • All-Ireland Senior Hurling Championship • • • • • Connacht Senior Hurling Championship • Leinster Senior Hurling Championship • Munster Senior Hurling Championship • Ulster Senior Hurling Championship National Hurling League Christy Ring Cup Nicky Rackard Cup All-Ireland Senior Club Hurling Championship • Leinster Senior Club Hurling Championship • All-Ireland Under-21 Hurling Championship • • • • Counties contesting the All-Ireland Senior Football Championship (yellow), All-Ireland Senior Hurling Championship (blue), or both (green) • Leinster Under-21 Hurling Championship All-Ireland Minor Hurling Championship Poc Fada Féile na nGael Composite Rules Shinty/Hurling (usually internationals between Scotland and Ireland) Notable players Further information: Category:Hurlers References [1] Cramer, Ben. "Pitch Man" (http:/ / www. forbes. com/ forbes-life-magazine/ 2007/ 0423/ 123. html). Forbes. April 23, 2007. [2] Laurence Baker, Emily (1999-07-25). "WHAT'S DOING IN; Dublin" (http:/ / query. nytimes. com/ gst/ fullpage. html?res=9C07E7D9113FF936A15754C0A96F958260). The New York Times. . Retrieved 2008-05-03. [3] "'Google search results for "hurling fastest field game"'" (http:/ / news. google. com/ archivesearch?um=1& ned=us& hl=en& q=hurling+ "fastest+ field+ game"& cf=all). . [4] "U.S. warriors champion the warrior sport of hurling" (http:/ / www. irishexaminer. com/ ireland/ kfeykfeysnid/ rss2/ ), Irish Examiner, Saturday, Jan. 8, 2011. [5] "U.S. soldiers set up an Irish hurling team after Iraq tour – Inspired by brief visit to Ireland on way to Iraq" (http:/ / www. irishcentral. com/ news/ US-soldiers-set-up-an-Irish-hurling-team-after-Iraq-tour---SEE-VIDEO-112856959. html), Tuesday, Jan. 4, 2011. [6] "Gaelic Athletic Association Official Guide – Part 2" (http:/ / www. gaa. ie/ files/ official_guides/ 2009_official_guide_part2. pdf). Gaelic Athletic Association. 2009-06-03. p. 13. . Retrieved 2009-09-16. [7] "Hurling helmets to be compulsory" (http:/ / www. rte. ie/ sport/ gaa/ championship/ 2009/ 1029/ hurling. html). RTE Sport. 2009-10-28. . Retrieved 2009-10-30. [8] Humphries, Tom (2003-09-14). "Sticks and thrones" (http:/ / www. guardian. co. uk/ sport/ 2003/ oct/ 05/ features. sportmonthly1). The Guardian. . Retrieved 2009-09-17. [9] "The history and practice of Irish hurling" (http:/ / findarticles. com/ p/ articles/ mi_m3469/ is_43_53/ ai_94464991). Modern Brewery Age. 2002-10-28. . Retrieved 2009-09-17. Hurling 275 [10] Hutchinson, Roger (2004). Camanachd! The Story of Shinty. Birlinn Ltd. pp. 27–28. ISBN 978-1-84158-326-6. [11] "Traditional Celtic Sports" (http:/ / www. kidzworld. com/ article/ 5426-traditional-celtic-sports/ ). Kidzworld.com. . Retrieved 2009-04-05. [12] "Reviving the old art, TCD step up in class" (http:/ / archives. tcm. ie/ irishexaminer/ 2007/ 01/ 20/ story23392. asp). Irish Examiner. 2007-01-20. . Retrieved 2009-09-17. [13] "Kilkenny Hurling" (http:/ / www. irishtimes. com/ kilkenny-hurling/ ). The Irish Times. . [14] "DEMONSTRATION & UNOFFICIAL SPORTS" (http:/ / www. gbrathletics. com/ olympic/ other. htm#DEMO). . [15] King, Seamus J. (1998). The Clash of the Ash in Foreign Fields: Hurling Abroad. p. 85. ISBN 978-0-9533513-0-5. [16] King, Seamus J. (1998). The Clash of the Ash in Foreign Fields: Hurling Abroad. pp. 97–98. ISBN 978-0-9533513-0-5. [17] King, Seamus J. (1998). The Clash of the Ash in Foreign Fields: Hurling Abroad. pp. 85–127. ISBN 978-0-9533513-0-5. [18] http:/ / www. stlhurling. com/ [19] http:/ / www. indyhurling. com/ [20] King, Seamus J. (1998). The Clash of the Ash in Foreign Fields: Hurling Abroad. p. 129. ISBN 978-0-9533513-0-5. [21] King, Seamus J. (1998). The Clash of the Ash in Foreign Fields: Hurling Abroad. pp. 129–137. ISBN 978-0-9533513-0-5. [22] "The Global Irish – Buenos Aires" (http:/ / www. rte. ie/ news/ 2010/ 0310/ globalirish_buenosaires. html). RTE Sport. 2010-03-10. . Retrieved 2010-03-15. [23] King, Seamus J. (1998). The Clash of the Ash in Foreign Fields: Hurling Abroad. p. 139. ISBN 978-0-9533513-0-5. [24] King, Seamus J. (1998). The Clash of the Ash in Foreign Fields: Hurling Abroad. pp. 139–140. ISBN 978-0-9533513-0-5. [25] King, Seamus J. (1998). The Clash of the Ash in Foreign Fields: Hurling Abroad. pp. 147–151. ISBN 978-0-9533513-0-5. [26] King, Seamus J. (2005). A History of Hurling. Gill & Macmillan Ltd. p. 18. ISBN 978-0-7171-3938-5. [27] O'Crohan, Tomas (1977). The Islandman. Oxford Paperbacks. pp. 133–134. ISBN 978-0-19-281233-9. [28] King, Seamus J. (2005). A History of Hurling. Gill & Macmillan Ltd. p. 25. ISBN 978-0-7171-3938-5. [29] O'Sullivan, Humphrey (1979). The Diary of an Irish Countryman. Mercier Press. ISBN 978-1-85635-042-6. Further reading • King, Seamus J. (2005). A History of Hurling. Gill & Macmillan Ltd. ISBN 978-0-7171-3938-5. • King, Seamus J. (1998). The Clash of the Ash in Foreign Fields: Hurling Abroad. ISBN 978-0-9533513-0-5. External links • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • Playing Rules (http://www.gaa.ie/files/official_guides/official_guide2_v2.pdf) Constitution and Rules of the GAA (http://www.gaa.ie/files/official_guides/official_guide1_june10.pdf) Match Regulations 2008 (http://www.gaa.ie/files/official_guides/match_regulations_12may.doc) Official website of the Gaelic Athletic Association (http://www.gaa.ie) Sliotar Hurling Magazine (http://www.sliotarmagazine.com) An Fear Rua – the GAA Unplugged (http://www.anfearrua.com) Video introduction to hurling (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TmzivRetelE) Continental Youth Championships (http://cyc.gaa.ie) A Brief History of the Argentine Hurling Club (http://www.hurling-club.com.ar/history.html) Hurling in Australia and New Zealand (http://www.gaelicfootball.com.au/hurling.htm) Gaelic Football, Hurling are Irish Passions, National Geographic News (http://news.nationalgeographic.com/ news/2002/03/0308_020315_gaelicsports.html) Hurling, Men's Fitness Magazine (http://www.mensfitness.com/sports_and_recreation/athletes/9) Selection of hurling photos from Sportsfile Sports Photo Agency (http://www.sportsfile.com/search/hurling/) KilkennyCats.com Hurling Forum (http://www.kilkennycats.com) Seamus J. King, author website (http://www.seamusjking.com) What is Hurling, youtube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AM-kB1e96CA) "Thirty Irishmen With Shillelaghs" (http://books.google.com/books?id=nNwDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA146& dq=1954+Popular+Mechanics+January&hl=en&sa=X&ei=af4kT9LXBIiKgwfB_Iy1Dw& ved=0CEgQ6AEwBg#v=onepage&q&f=true) Popular Mechanics, March 1954, pp. 146–147. Association football 276 Association football Association football An attacking player (No. 10) attempts to kick the ball past the opposing team's goalkeeper and between the goalposts to score a goal. Highest governing body FIFA Nickname(s) Football, soccer, footy/footie, "The beautiful game", "The world game" First played Mid-19th century England Characteristics Contact Yes Team members 11 per side Mixed gender Yes, separate competitions Categorization Team sport, ball sport Equipment Football (or soccer ball) Venue Football pitch (or soccer field) Olympic Yes - has featured in every Summer Olympic programme - except for the 1896 and 1932 Olympics Paralympic No Country or region Worldwide Association football, more commonly known as football or soccer, is a sport played between two teams of eleven players with a spherical ball. At the turn of the 21st century, the game was played by over 250 million players in over 200 countries, making it the world's most popular sport.[1][2][3][4] The game is played on a rectangular field of grass or green artificial turf, with a goal in the middle of each of the short ends. The object of the game is to score by driving the ball into the opposing goal. In general play, the goalkeepers are the only players allowed to touch the ball with their hands or arms (unless the ball is carried out of play, where the field players are required to re-start by a throw-in of the game ball), while the field players typically use their feet to kick the ball, occasionally using other parts of their legs, their torso or head. The team that scores the most goals by the end of the match wins. If the score is tied at the end of the game, either a draw is declared or the game goes into extra time and/or a penalty shootout, depending on the format of the competition. The Laws of the Game were originally codified in England by the Football Association in 1863 and have evolved since then. Association football is governed internationally by FIFA—Fédération Internationale de Association football 277 Football Association (English: International Federation of Association Football)—which organises the FIFA World Cup every four years.[5] Etymology and names The rules of association football were codified in England by the Football Association in 1863 and the name association football was coined to distinguish the game from the other forms of football played at the time, specifically rugby football. The term soccer originated in England, first appearing in the 1880s as an Oxford "-er" abbreviation of the word "association".[6] Within the English-speaking world, association football is usually called football (colloquially footy) or occasionally soccer in the United Kingdom, and mainly soccer in Australia, Canada, New Zealand, and the United States. Other countries may use either or both terms, and may also have local names for the sport. Gameplay A goalkeeper saving a close-range shot from inside the penalty area Association football is played in accordance with a set of rules known as the Laws of the Game. The game is played using a spherical ball (of unknown operator: u'strong' cm (28 in) circumference in FIFA play), known as the football (or soccer ball). Two teams of eleven players each compete to get the ball into the other team's goal (between the posts and under the bar), thereby scoring a goal. The team that has scored more goals at the end of the game is the winner; if both teams have scored an equal number of goals then the game is a draw. Each team is led by a captain who has only one official responsibility as mandated by the Laws of the Game: to be involved in the coin toss prior to kick-off or penalty kicks.[7] The primary law is that players other than goalkeepers may not deliberately handle the ball with their hands or arms during play, though they do use their hands during a throw-in restart. Although players usually use their feet to move the ball around, they may use any part of their body (notably, "heading" with the forehead)[8] other than their hands or arms.[9] Within normal play, all players are free to play the ball in any direction and move throughout the pitch, though the ball cannot be received in an offside position.[10] In typical game play, players attempt to create goal-scoring opportunities through individual control of the ball, such as by dribbling, passing the ball to a team-mate, and by taking shots at the goal, which is guarded by the opposing goalkeeper. Opposing players may try to regain control of the ball by intercepting a pass or through tackling the opponent in possession of the ball; however, physical contact between opponents is restricted. Football is generally a free-flowing game, with play stopping only when the ball has left the field of play or when play is stopped by the referee for an infringement of the rules. After a stoppage, play recommences with a specified restart.[11] At a professional level, most matches produce only a few goals. For example, the 2005–06 season of the English Premier League produced an average of 2.48 goals per match.[12] The Laws of the Game do not specify any player positions other than goalkeeper,[13] but a number of specialised roles have evolved. Broadly, these include three main categories: strikers, or forwards, whose main task is to score goals; defenders, who specialise in preventing their opponents from scoring; and midfielders, who dispossess the opposition and keep possession of A goalkeeper dives to stop the ball from entering his goal Association football 278 the ball in order to pass it to the forwards on their team. Players in these positions are referred to as outfield players, in order to distinguish them from the goalkeeper. These positions are further subdivided according to the area of the field in which the player spends most time. For example, there are central defenders, and left and right midfielders. The ten outfield players may be arranged in any combination. The number of players in each position determines the style of the team's play; more forwards and fewer defenders creates a more aggressive and offensive-minded game, while the reverse creates a slower, more defensive style of play. While players typically spend most of the game in a specific position, there are few restrictions on player movement, and players can switch positions at any time.[14] The layout of a team's players is known as a formation. Defining the team's formation and tactics is usually the prerogative of the team's manager.[15] History Games revolving around the kicking of a ball have been played in many countries throughout history, such as woggabaliri in Australia, harpastum in the Roman Empire, and cuju in China. The modern rules of association football are based on the mid-19th century efforts to standardise the widely varying forms of football played in the public schools of England. The history of football in England dates back to at least the eighth century.[16] The Cambridge Rules, first drawn up at Cambridge University in 1848, were particularly influential in the development of subsequent codes, including association football. The Cambridge Rules were written at Trinity College, Cambridge, at a meeting attended by representatives from Eton, Harrow, Rugby, Winchester and Shrewsbury schools. They were not universally adopted. During the 1850s, many clubs unconnected to schools or universities were formed throughout the English-speaking world, to play various forms of football. Some came up with their own distinct codes of rules, most notably the Sheffield Football Club, formed by former public school pupils in 1857,[17] which led to formation of a Sheffield FA in 1867. In 1862, John Charles Thring of Uppingham School also devised an influential set of rules.[18] England playing Scotland in a representative match in 1872 at The Oval These ongoing efforts contributed to the formation of The Football Association (The FA) in 1863, which first met on the morning of 26 October 1863 at the Freemasons' Tavern in Great Queen Street, London.[19] The only school to be represented on this occasion was The Royal Engineers team who reached the first Charterhouse. The Freemason's Tavern was the setting for five more FA Cup final in 1872 meetings between October and December, which eventually produced the first comprehensive set of rules. At the final meeting, the first FA treasurer, the representative from Blackheath, withdrew his club from the FA over the removal of two draft rules at the previous meeting: the first allowed for running with the ball in hand; the second for obstructing such a run by hacking (kicking an opponent in the shins), tripping and holding. Other English rugby football clubs followed this lead and did not join the FA, or subsequently left the FA and instead in 1871 formed the Rugby Football Union. The eleven remaining clubs, under the charge of Ebenezer Cobb Morley, went on to ratify the original thirteen laws of the game.[19] These rules included handling of the ball by "marks" and the lack of a crossbar, rules which made it remarkably similar to Victorian rules football Association football being developed at that time in Australia. The Sheffield FA played by its own rules until the 1870s with the FA absorbing some of its rules until there was little difference between the games.[20] The laws of the game are currently determined by the International Football Association Board (IFAB).[21] The Board was formed in 1886[22] after a meeting in Manchester of The Football Association, the Scottish Football Association, the Football Association of Wales, and the Irish Football Association. The world's oldest football competition is the FA Cup, which was founded by C. W. Alcock and has been contested by English teams since 1872. The first official international football match took place in 1872 between Scotland and England in Glasgow, again at the instigation of C. W. Alcock. England is home to the world's first football league, which was founded in Birmingham in 1888 by Aston Villa director William McGregor.[23] The original format contained 12 clubs from the Midlands and the North of England. FIFA, the international football body, was formed in Paris in 1904 and declared that they would adhere to Laws of the Game of the Football Association.[24] The growing popularity of the international game led to the admittance of FIFA representatives to the International Football Association Board in 1913. The board currently consists of four representatives from FIFA and one representative from each of the four British associations.[25] Today, football is played at a professional level all over the world. Millions of people regularly go to football stadiums to follow their favourite teams,[26] while billions more watch the game on television or on the internet.[27] A very large number of people also play football at an amateur level. According to a survey conducted by FIFA published in 2001, over 240 million people from more than 200 countries regularly play football.[28] Football has the highest global television audience in sport.[29] In many parts of the world football evokes great passions and plays an important role in the life of individual fans, local communities, and even nations. R. Kapuscinski says that people who are polite, modest or even humble in Europe fall easily into rage with playing or watching soccer games.[30] The Côte d'Ivoire national football team helped secure a truce to the nation's civil war in 2006[31] and it helped further reduce tensions between government and rebel forces in 2007 by playing a match in the rebel capital of Bouaké, an occasion that brought both armies together peacefully for the first time.[32] By contrast, football is widely considered to have been the final proximate cause for the Football War in June 1969 between El Salvador and Honduras.[33] The sport also exacerbated tensions at the beginning of the Yugoslav wars of the 1990s, when a match between Dinamo Zagreb and Red Star Belgrade degenerated into rioting in May 1990.[34] Laws There are 17 laws in the official Laws of the Game, each containing a collection of stipulation and guidelines. The same laws are designed to apply to all levels of football, although certain modifications for groups such as juniors, seniors, women and people with physical disabilities are permitted. The laws are often framed in broad terms, which allow flexibility in their application depending on the nature of the game. The Laws of the Game are published by FIFA, but are maintained by the International Football Association Board (IFAB).[35] In addition to the seventeen laws, numerous IFAB decisions and other directives contribute to the regulation of football. Players, equipment, and officials Each team consists of a maximum of eleven players (excluding substitutes), one of whom must be the goalkeeper. Competition rules may state a minimum number of players required to constitute a team, which is usually seven. Goalkeepers are the only players allowed to play the ball with their hands or arms, provided they do so within the penalty area in front of their own goal. Though there are a variety of positions in which the outfield (non-goalkeeper) players are strategically placed by a coach, these positions are not defined or required by the Laws.[13] The basic equipment or kit players are required to wear includes a shirt, shorts, socks, footwear and adequate shin guards. Headgear is not a required piece of basic equipment, but players today may choose to wear it to protect themselves from head injury. Players are forbidden to wear or use anything that is dangerous to themselves or 279 Association football 280 another player, such as jewellery or watches. The goalkeeper must wear clothing that is easily distinguishable from that worn by the other players and the match officials.[36] A number of players may be replaced by substitutes during the course of the game. The maximum number of substitutions permitted in most competitive international and domestic league games is three, though the permitted number may vary in other competitions or in friendly matches. Common reasons for a substitution include injury, tiredness, ineffectiveness, a tactical switch, or timewasting at the end of a finely poised game. In standard adult matches, a player who has been substituted may not take further part in a match.[37] IFAB recommends that "that a match should not continue if there are fewer than seven players in either team." Any decision regarding points awarded for abandoned games is left to the individual football associations.[38] A game is officiated by a referee, who has "full authority to enforce the Laws of the Game in connection with the match to which he has been appointed" (Law 5), and whose decisions are final. The referee is assisted by two assistant referees. In many high-level games there is also a fourth official who assists the referee and may replace another official should the need arise.[39] Pitch As the Laws were formulated in England, and were initially administered solely by the four British football associations within IFAB, the standard dimensions of a football pitch were originally expressed in imperial units. The Laws now express dimensions with approximate metric equivalents (followed by traditional units in brackets), though popular use tends to continue to use traditional units in English-speaking countries with a relatively recent history of metrication (or only partial [40] metrication), such as Britain. Standard pitch measurements (See Imperial version) The length of the pitch for international adult matches is in the range of 100–110 m (110–120 yd) and the width is in the range of 64–75 m (70–80 yd). Fields for non-international matches may be 90–120 m (100–130 yd) length and 45–90 m (50–100 yd) in width, provided that the pitch does not become square. Although in 2008, the IFAB initially approved a fixed size of 105 m (344 ft) long and 68 m (223 ft) wide as a standard pitch dimension for A international matches,[41] this decision was later put on hold and was never actually implemented.[42] The longer boundary lines are touchlines, while the shorter boundaries (on which the goals are placed) are goal lines. A rectangular goal is positioned at the middle of each goal line.[43] The inner edges of the vertical goal posts must be 7.32 m (8 yd) apart, and the lower edge of the horizontal crossbar supported by the goal posts must be 2.44 m (8 ft) above the ground. Nets are usually placed behind the goal, but are not required by the Laws.[44] In front of each goal is an area known as the penalty area. This area is marked by the goal line, two lines starting on the goal line 16.5 m (18 yd) from the goalposts and extending 16.5 m (18 yd) into the pitch perpendicular to the goal line, and a line joining them. This area has a number of functions, the most prominent being to mark where the goalkeeper may handle the ball and where a penalty foul by a member of the defending team becomes punishable by Association football a penalty kick. Other markings define the position of the ball or players at kick-offs, goal kicks, penalty kicks and corner kicks.[45] Duration and tie-breaking methods A standard adult football match consists of two periods of 45 minutes each, known as halves. Each half runs continuously, meaning that the clock is not stopped when the ball is out of play. There is usually a 15-minute half-time break between halves. The end of the match is known as full-time.[46] The referee is the official timekeeper for the match, and may make an allowance for time lost through substitutions, injured players requiring attention, or other stoppages. This added time is most commonly referred to as stoppage time or injury time, while loss time can also be used as a synonym. The duration of stoppage time is at the sole discretion of the referee. The referee alone signals the end of the match. In matches where a fourth official is appointed, toward the end of the half the referee signals how many minutes of stoppage time he intends to add. The fourth official then informs the players and spectators by holding up a board showing this number. The signalled stoppage time may be further extended by the referee.[46] Added time was introduced because of an incident which happened in 1891 during a match between Stoke and Aston Villa. Trailing 1–0 and with just two minutes remaining, Stoke were awarded a penalty. Villa's goalkeeper kicked the ball out of the ground, and by the time the ball had been recovered, the 90 minutes had elapsed and the game was over.[47] The same law also stands that the duration of either half is extended until the penalty kick to be taken or retaken is completed, thus no game shall end with a penalty to be taken.[48] In league competitions, games may end in a draw. In knockout competitions where a winner is required various methods may be employed to break such a deadlock, some competitions may invoke replays.[49] A game tied at the end of regulation time may go into extra time, which consists of two further 15-minute periods. If the score is still tied after extra time, some competitions allow the use of penalty shootouts (known officially in the Laws of the Game as "kicks from the penalty mark") to determine which team will progress to the next stage of the tournament. Goals scored during extra time periods count toward the final score of the game, but kicks from the penalty mark are only used to decide the team that progresses to the next part of the tournament (with goals scored in a penalty shootout not making up part of the final score).[7] In competitions using two-legged matches, each team competes at home once, with an aggregate score from the two matches deciding which team progresses. Where aggregates are equal, the away goals rule may be used to determine the winners, in which case the winner is the team that scored the most goals in the leg they played away from home. If the result is still equal, extra time and potentially a penalty shootout are required.[7] In the late 1990s and early 2000s, the IFAB experimented with ways of creating a winner without requiring a penalty shootout, which was often seen as an undesirable way to end a match. These involved rules ending a game in extra time early, either when the first goal in extra time was scored (golden goal), or if one team held a lead at the end of the first period of extra time (silver goal). Golden goal was used at the World Cup in 1998 and 2002. The first World Cup game decided by a golden goal was France's victory over Paraguay in 1998. Germany was the first nation to score a golden goal in a major competition, beating Czech Republic in the final of Euro 1996. Silver goal was used in Euro 2004. Both these experiments have been discontinued by IFAB.[50] 281 Association football 282 Ball in and out of play Under the Laws, the two basic states of play during a game are ball in play and ball out of play. From the beginning of each playing period with a kick-off until the end of the playing period, the ball is in play at all times, except when either the ball leaves the field of play, or play is stopped by the referee. When the ball becomes out of play, play is restarted by one of eight restart methods depending on how it went out of play: • Kick-off: following a goal by the opposing team, or to begin each period of play.[11] • Throw-in: when the ball has crossed the touchline; awarded to opposing team to that which last touched the ball.[51] • Goal kick: when the ball has wholly crossed the goal line without a goal having been scored and having last been touched by a player of the attacking team; awarded to defending team.[52] • Corner kick: when the ball has wholly crossed the goal line without a goal having been scored and having last been touched by a player of the defending team; awarded to attacking team.[53] A player takes a free kick, while the opposition form a "wall" to try to block the ball • Indirect free kick: awarded to the opposing team following "non-penal" fouls, certain technical infringements, or when play is stopped to caution or send-off an opponent without a specific foul having occurred. A goal may not be scored directly (without the ball first touching another player) from an indirect free kick.[54] • Direct free kick: awarded to fouled team following certain listed "penal" fouls.[54] A goal may be scored directly from a direct free kick. • Penalty kick: awarded to the fouled team following a foul usually punishable by a direct free kick but that has occurred within their opponent's penalty area.[55] • Dropped-ball: occurs when the referee has stopped play for any other reason, such as a serious injury to a player, interference by an external party, or a ball becoming defective.[11] Misconduct On-field Players are cautioned with a yellow card, and sent off with a red card. These colours were first introduced at the 1970 FIFA World Cup and used consistently since. A player scores a penalty kick given after an offence is committed inside the penalty area A foul occurs when a player commits an offence listed in the Laws of the Game while the ball is in play. The offences that constitute a foul are listed in Law 12. Handling the ball deliberately, tripping an opponent, or pushing an opponent, are examples of "penal fouls", punishable by a direct free kick or penalty kick depending on where the offence occurred. Other fouls are punishable by an indirect free kick.[9] The referee may punish a player or substitute's misconduct by a caution (yellow card) or sending-off (red card). A second yellow card at the same game leads to a red card, and therefore to a sending-off. A Association football player given a yellow card is said to have been "booked", the referee writing the player's name in his official notebook. If a player has been sent off, no substitute can be brought on in their place. Misconduct may occur at any time, and while the offences that constitute misconduct are listed, the definitions are broad. In particular, the offence of "unsporting behaviour" may be used to deal with most events that violate the spirit of the game, even if they are not listed as specific offences. A referee can show a yellow or red card to a player, substitute or substituted player. Non-players such as managers and support staff cannot be shown the yellow or red card, but may be expelled from the technical area if they fail to conduct themselves in a responsible manner.[9] Rather than stopping play, the referee may allow play to continue if doing so will benefit the team against which an offence has been committed. This is known as "playing an advantage".[56] The referee may "call back" play and penalise the original offence if the anticipated advantage does not ensue within "a few seconds". Even if an offence is not penalised due to advantage being played, the offender may still be sanctioned for misconduct at the next stoppage of play.[57] The referee's decision in all on-pitch matters is considered final.[58] The score of a match cannot be altered after the game, even if later evidence shows that decisions (including awards/non-awards of goals) were incorrect. Off-field Along with the general administration of the sport, football associations and competition organisers also enforce good conduct in wider aspects of the game, dealing with issues such as comments to the press, clubs' financial management, doping, age fraud and match fixing. Some on-field incidents, if considered very serious (such as allegations of racial abuse), may result in further action than that which is in power of an on-field referee.[59] Some associations allow for appeals against player suspensions incurred on-field if clubs feel a referee was incorrect or unduly harsh. Sanctions for such infractions may be levied on individuals or on to clubs as a whole. Penalties may range from fines, points deductions (in league competitions) to expulsion from competitions. For example, the English and Scottish leagues will often deduct 10 points from a team that enters financial administration. Governing bodies The recognised international governing body of football (and associated games, such as futsal and beach soccer) is FIFA. The FIFA headquarters are located in Zurich. Six regional confederations are associated with FIFA; these are:[60] • • • • Asia: Asian Football Confederation (AFC) Africa: Confederation of African Football (CAF) Europe: Union of European Football Associations (UEFA) North/Central America & Caribbean: Confederation of North, Central American and Caribbean Association Football (CONCACAF) • Oceania: Oceania Football Confederation (OFC) • South America: Confederación Sudamericana de Fútbol/Confederação Sul-americana de Futebol (South American Football Confederation; CONMEBOL) National associations oversee football within individual countries. These are generally synonymous with sovereign states, (for example: the Fédération Camerounaise de Football in Cameroon) but also include a smaller number of associations responsible for sub-national entities or autonomous regions (for example the Scottish Football Association in Scotland). 208 national associations are affiliated both with FIFA and with their respective continental confederations.[60] While FIFA is responsible for arranging competitions and most rules related to international competition, the actual Laws of the Game are set by the International Football Association Board, where each of the UK Associations has one vote, while FIFA collectively has four votes.[25] 283 Association football International competitions The major international competition in football is the World Cup, organised by FIFA. This competition takes place over a four-year period. More than 190 national teams compete in qualifying tournaments within the scope of continental confederations for a place in the finals. The finals tournament, which is held every four years, involves 32 national teams competing over a four-week period.[61] The most recent tournament, the 2010 FIFA World Cup, was held in South Africa from 11 June to 11 July.[62] A minute's silence before an international match There has been a football tournament at every Summer Olympic [63] Games since 1900, except at the 1932 games in Los Angeles. Before the inception of the World Cup, the Olympics (especially during the 1920s) had the same status as the World Cup. Originally, the event was for amateurs only,[24] however, since the 1984 Summer Olympics professional players have been permitted, albeit with certain restrictions which prevent countries from fielding their strongest sides. Currently, the Olympic men's tournament is played at Under-23 level. In the past the Olympics have allowed a restricted number of over-age players per team;[64] but that practice ceased in the 2008 Olympics. A women's tournament was added in 1996; in contrast to the men's event, full international sides without age restrictions play the women's Olympic tournament.[65] After the World Cup, the most important international football competitions are the continental championships, which are organised by each continental confederation and contested between national teams. These are the European Championship (UEFA), the Copa América (CONMEBOL), African Cup of Nations (CAF), the Asian Cup (AFC), the CONCACAF Gold Cup (CONCACAF) and the OFC Nations Cup (OFC). The FIFA Confederations Cup is contested by the winners of all 6 continental championships, the current FIFA World Cup champions and the country which is hosting the Confederations Cup. This is generally regarded as a warm-up tournament for the upcoming FIFA World Cup and does not carry the same prestige as the World Cup itself. The most prestigious competitions in club football are the respective continental championships, which are generally contested between national champions, for example the UEFA Champions League in Europe and the Copa Libertadores de América in South America. The winners of each continental competition contest the FIFA Club World Cup.[66] Domestic competitions The governing bodies in each country operate league systems in a domestic season, normally comprising several divisions, in which the teams gain points throughout the season depending on results. Teams are placed into tables, placing them in order according to points accrued. Most commonly, each team plays every other team in its league at home and away in each season, in a round-robin tournament. At the end of a season, the top team is declared the champion. The top few teams may be promoted to a higher division, and one or more of the teams finishing at the bottom are relegated to a lower division.[67] The teams finishing at the top of a country's league may be eligible also to play in international club competitions in the following season. The main exceptions to this system occur in some Latin American leagues, which divide football championships into two sections named Apertura and Clausura (Spanish for Opening and Closing), awarding a champion for each.[68] The majority of countries supplement the league system with one or more "cup" competitions organised on a knock-out basis. Some countries' top divisions feature highly paid star players; in smaller countries and lower divisions, players may be part-timers with a second job, or amateurs. The five top European leagues – the Premier League (England),[69] La Liga (Spain), Serie A (Italy), the Bundesliga (Germany) and Ligue 1 (France) – attract most of the world's best players and each of the leagues has a total wage cost in excess of £600 million/€763 million/US$1.185 billion.[70] 284 Association football Women's association football Women have been playing association football since the first recorded women's game in 1895 in North London. It has traditionally been associated with charity games and physical exercise, particularly in the United Kingdom.[71] This perception began to change in the 1970s with the breakthrough of organised women's association football. Association football is the most prominent team sport for women in several countries, and one of the few women's team sports with professional leagues. The growth in women's football has seen major competitions being launched at both national and international level mirroring the male Two players trying to win the ball competitions. Women's football faced many struggles throughout its fight for right. It had a "golden age" in the United Kingdom in the early 1920s when crowds reached 50,000 at some matches;[72] this was stopped on 5 December 1921 when England's Football Association voted to ban the game from grounds used by its member clubs. The FA's ban was rescinded in December 1969 with UEFA voting to officially recognise women's football in 1971.[71] The FIFA Women's World Cup was inaugurated in 1991 and has been held every four years since.[73] Variants and casual play Variants of football have been codified for reduced-sized teams (i.e. Five-a-side football) play in non-field environments (i.e. Beach soccer, Indoor soccer, and Futsal) and for teams with disabilities (i.e. Paralympic association football). One of the attractions of association football is that a casual game can be played with only minimal equipment – a basic game can be played on almost any open area of reasonable size with just a ball and items to mark the positions of two sets of goalposts. Such games can often have team sizes that vary considerably from 11-a-side, use a limited and/or modified subset of the official rules, and are likely to be self-officiated by the players. References [1] "Overview of Soccer" (http:/ / www. britannica. com/ EBchecked/ topic/ 550852/ football). Encyclopædia Britannica. Archived (http:/ / web. archive. org/ web/ 20080612123410/ http:/ / www. britannica. com/ EBchecked/ topic/ 550852/ football) from the original on 12 June 2008. . Retrieved 4 June 2008. [2] Guttman, Allen (1993). "The Diffusion of Sports and the Problem of Cultural Imperialism" (http:/ / books. google. com/ books?id=tQY5wxQDn5gC& pg=PA129& lpg=PA129& dq=world's+ most+ popular+ team+ sport& source=web& ots=6ns3wVUEGV& sig=SZPKYSDMJBrO1uV4mPxNbKyAuJY#PPA129,M1). In Eric Dunning, Joseph A. Maguire, Robert E. Pearton. The Sports Process: A Comparative and Developmental Approach. Champaign: Human Kinetics. p. 129. ISBN 0-88011-624-2. . Retrieved 26 January 2008. "the game is complex enough not to be invented independently by many preliterate cultures and yet simple enough to become the world's most popular team sport" [3] Dunning, Eric (1999). "The development of soccer as a world game" (http:/ / books. google. com/ books?id=X3lX_LVBaToC& pg=PA105& lpg=PA105& dq=world's+ most+ popular+ team+ sport& source=web& ots=ehee9Lr9o1& sig=nyvDhcrPoR8lXhYKE7k4CZYg_qU#PPA103,M1). Sport Matters: Sociological Studies of Sport, Violence and Civilisation. London: Routledge. p. 103. ISBN 0-415-06413-9. . 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Archived from the original (http:/ / www. fifa. com/ flash/ lotg/ football/ en/ Laws13_01. htm) on 13 September 2007. . Retrieved 14 October 2007. [55] "Laws of the game (Law 14–The Penalty Kick)" (http:/ / web. archive. org/ web/ 20070913142717/ http:/ / fifa. com/ flash/ lotg/ football/ en/ Laws14_01. htm). FIFA. Archived from the original (http:/ / www. fifa. com/ flash/ lotg/ football/ en/ Laws14_01. htm) on 13 September 2007. . Retrieved 14 October 2007. [56] "Referee's signals: advantage" (http:/ / news. bbc. co. uk/ sport1/ hi/ football/ rules_and_equipment/ 4188646. stm). BBC Sport (BBC). 14 September 2005. . Retrieved 4 March 2011. [57] IFAB. "Law 5: The Referee: Advantage" (http:/ / www. fifa. com/ mm/ document/ affederation/ generic/ 81/ 42/ 36/ lawsofthegame_2010_11_e. pdf) (PDF). Laws of the Game 2010/2011. FIFA. p. 66. . Retrieved 4 March 2011. [58] IFAB. "The Laws of the Game" (http:/ / www. fifa. com/ mm/ document/ affederation/ generic/ 81/ 42/ 36/ lawsofthegame_2011_12_en. pdf) (PDF). FIFA. p. 24. . Retrieved 5 May 2012. [59] For example, the English Premier League fined and levied an 8-match suspension on Luis Suárez for racially abusing Patrice Evra [60] "Confederations" (http:/ / www. fifa. com/ aboutfifa/ organisation/ confederations/ ). FIFA. . Retrieved 4 March 2011. [61] The number of competing teams has varied over the history of the competition. The most recent changed was in 1998, from 24 to 32. [62] "The FIFA Calendar" (http:/ / www. fifa. com/ aboutfifa/ calendar/ events. html). FIFA. Archived (http:/ / web. archive. org/ web/ 20100614211739/ http:/ / www. fifa. com/ aboutfifa/ calendar/ events. html) from the original on 14 June 2010. . Retrieved 12 June 2010. [63] "Football Equipment and History" (http:/ / www. olympic. org/ football-equipment-and-history?tab=1). International Olympic Committee (IOC). . Retrieved 4 March 2011. [64] "Football – An Olympic Sport since 1900" (http:/ / replay. waybackmachine. org/ 20090601015157/ http:/ / www. olympic. org/ uk/ sports/ programme/ index_uk. asp?SportCode=FB). International Olympic Committee (IOC). Archived from the original (http:/ / www. olympic. org/ uk/ sports/ programme/ index_uk. asp?SportCode=FB) on 1 June 2009. . Retrieved 7 October 2007. [65] "Event Guide – Football" (http:/ / olympics. sportinglife. com/ olympics/ story/ 0,23911,14986,00. html). sportinglife. 365 media group. . Retrieved 5 March 2011. [66] "Organising Committee strengthens FIFA Club World Cup format" (http:/ / www. fifa. com/ tournaments/ archive/ clubworldcup/ japan2007/ releases/ newsid=570740. html). FIFA. 14 August 2007. . Retrieved 7 October 2007. [67] Fort, Rodney (September 2000). "Scottish Journal of Political Economy". Scottish Journal of Political Economy 47 (4): 431–455. doi:10.1111/1467-9485.00172. [68] "Estudiantes win Argentina Apertura title" (http:/ / msn. foxsports. com/ foxsoccer/ latinamerica/ story/ Estudiantes-win-Argentina-Apertura-title). FoxSports. Associated Press. 13 December 2010. . "Under the system used in Argentina and most of Latin America, two season titles are awarded each year – the Apertura and Clausura." [69] Hughes, Ian (31 March 2008). "Premier League conquering Europe" (http:/ / news. bbc. co. uk/ sport2/ hi/ football/ europe/ 7321408. stm). BBC Sport (BBC). . Retrieved 27 May 2008. [70] Taylor, Louise (29 May 2008). "Leading clubs losing out as players and agents cash in" (http:/ / www. guardian. co. uk/ football/ 2008/ may/ 29/ premierleague). The Guardian (London). . Retrieved 28 November 2008. [71] Gregory, Patricia (3 June 2005). "How women's football battled for survival" (http:/ / news. bbc. co. uk/ sport1/ hi/ football/ women/ 4607171. stm). BBC sport (BBC). . Retrieved 19 February 2010. [72] Alexander, Shelley (3 June 2005). "Trail-blazers who pioneered women's football" (http:/ / news. bbc. co. uk/ sport1/ hi/ football/ women/ 4603149. stm). BBC sport (BBC). . Retrieved 19 February 2010. [73] "Tournaments: Women's World Cup" (http:/ / www. fifa. com/ tournaments/ archive/ tournament=103/ awards/ index. html). FIFA. . Retrieved 11 March 2011. External links • • • • Federation Internationale de Football Association (FIFA) (http://www.fifa.com/) The Current Laws of the Game (LOTG) (http://www.fifa.com/worldfootball/lawsofthegame.html) The Rec.Sport.Soccer Statistics Foundation (RSSSF) (http://www.rsssf.com/) Association football (http://www.dmoz.org/Sports/Soccer//) at the Open Directory Project 288 Donegal Democrat 289 Donegal Democrat Type Twice-weekly Newspaper Format Broadsheet & Compact Owner Derry Journal Newspapers Editor Michael Daly Founded 16 June 1919 Political alignment Nationalist Headquarters Letterkenny, County Donegal Circulation Tuesday: 10,059; Official website www.donegaldemocrat.com [1] [2] Thursday: 13,733 [3] The Donegal Democrat is a twice-weekly local newspaper, covering County Donegal, Ireland. The paper was traditionally based in the town of Ballyshannon in the south of the county, but now has offices in Donegal Town (southern edition) and Letterkenny (northern edition). The Donegal Democrat is the largest paper focused solely on County Donegal, and its current editor is Michael Daly. The paper was the only one published in south Donegal from the mid-twentieth century on, and so has gained a reputation of being the local paper of record for that part of the county. Its main rivals in the north of the county are its stable-mate, the Derry Journal as well as the Letterkenny Post, and the Donegal Post and Finn Valley Post in the south. It had a combined ABC circulation for its Tuesday and Thursday editions of 23,792, for the first half of 2007. Since its launch, the paper has been published weekly on a Thursday in broadsheet format, and in recent years has become part of a chain of titles that are published three times per week in the county. The paper is now almost entirely integrated with the Donegal People’s Press, a paper published on Tuesdays in a Compact format. The People’s Press was traditionally a north Donegal paper and so, with minor alterations, is published as a Tuesday edition of the Donegal Democrat in the south of the county. In March 2004, the Sunday Democrat was launched as an edition of the Sunday Journal, it changed its name later that year to Donegal on Sunday and is still the only local newspaper published in Ireland on a Sunday. The Donegal Democrat group is owned by Johnston Press through the holding company Derry Journal Newspapers, who publish several other titles in counties Donegal and Londonderry. History Early years The paper was first published on June 16th, 1919 and was founded by John Downey. The editorial in the first issue set out that it was to be a "non-political paper in a world of politics, but we believed that in doing so we are doing right. We are making our bow to the public at a critical period in our national and local history and it shall be ever our object to uphold anything that, will further the national and local interests." The paper had a fairly militant, nationalist policy, which, during the Irish War of Independence, led to it being raided on several occasions by police and British soldiers, who on one occasion announced that they were looking for a "typewriting machine". But they left on being assured that there was no such machine on the premises. For its first years, the paper was completely hand set, with each letter of type being placed individually; it was not surprising therefore that there were only 10 pages, measuring 9 inches by 11 inches. Its front page contained mostly Donegal Democrat adverts, with no photos in the paper at all. Over the next few years the paper gradually increased in size and circulation, and in 1922 got its first typesetting machine. Recent History In 1995, the paper was bought by the Derry Journal group which in turn became part of Trinity Mirror. In 2004 the paper was purchased by the 3i holding company Local Press Ltd, and changed hands again in 2005, when Johnston Press took over Local Press. It is now part of the Derry Journal Newspapers holding company Layout Features Both the Tuesday and Thursday editions of the paper share many common features and columns such as 'Gabrielle’s Diary', a society column which sees the column’s writer Gabrielle McMonagle, attend local charity and social events; an agricultural page entitled 'Farming Week'; a special section called 'Letterkenny in Focus', looking at developments in the county’s largest town; local notes for the various towns and villages in the county; death, birth and marriage announcements; and job, motor and property sections in partnership with the Irish sections of the Johnston Press owned websites, 'Jobs Today', 'Motors Today' and 'Property Today'. Tuesday The Tuesday edition (available as the Donegal People’s Press in the north of the county), is in compact format and is seventy-two pages with full colour; through its features, it is a little less 'rigid' than the Thursday paper. It contains a seven day TV guide, a weekly contribution from the youth media website 'Spun Out' [4], and columnists such as 'Pat’s Patch' by Pat McArt. Thursday The Thursday paper, which is available throughout the county, is a broadsheet in two sections, each of which are twenty-four pages in size, twenty of which are in colour. It includes feature’s such as 'Mind Yourself', a series of stories on mental health supported by the HSE, as well as an environmental contribution from Donegal County Council and a women's section compiled by the 'Donegal Women’s Network'. It also includes a series of columnists and editorials including 'It Occurs To Me' by Frank Galigan, and the 'Thursday Interview', where high profile local figures discuss important issues with the paper’s journalists. The Big Donegal Weekend was launched On 6 March 2008. This paper comes free with the Democrat and includes features on topics such as entertainment, shopping, property, lifestyle. Sport Sport stories form an important part of the newspaper, and coverage is given in both titles to the local GAA league and championship as well as Donegal’s involvement in inter-county competitions. Soccer is also quite prominent, including the local leagues, and the progress of Finn Harps, the only professional team in the county. Other sports regularly covered include golf, basketball and athletics. Website The paper also has a website, however it does not make its editions available online like some of its other competitors (such as the Donegal News), and stories are not regularly updated. The website is in the same format as all other titles owned by the Johnston Press group. 290 Donegal Democrat References [1] [2] [3] [4] ABC Certificate for Donegal People's Press/Donegal Democrat (Tuesday) (http:/ / abcpdfcerts. abc. org. uk/ pdf/ certificates/ 14406151. pdf) ABC Certificate for Donegal Democrat (Thursday) (http:/ / abcpdfcerts. abc. org. uk/ pdf/ certificates/ 14412947. pdf) http:/ / www. donegaldemocrat. com/ http:/ / www. spunout. ie External links • Donegal Democrat Website (http://www.donegaldemocrat.com) 291 Donegal Post 292 Donegal Post Type weekly newspaper Format Tabloid Owner River Media Editor Michael O'Laughlin Founded June 2006 Headquarters Donegal Town [1] Official website www.donegalpost.com [2] The Donegal Post is a local weekly regional newspaper published in County Donegal, Ulster, Ireland. When the paper was first launched by River Media in June 2006, it served the area of south Donegal, west Fermanagh, north Leitrim and north Sligo. It was soon joined by sister papers in Sligo, Leitrim, Cavan, Monaghan and Wicklow which have all since closed down. The Rivermedia directors have cited the effects of the current economic recession as the main problem leading to the closures.[3] The Rivermedia Group now has seven titles in the group. The Donegal Post is based in Cruagorm House in Donegal Town, and covers several other major towns in County Donegal, including Ballyshannon, Bundoran, Donegal Town, Glenties, Ardara, Killybegs and The Rosses area of west Donegal. The paper's popularity grew as a result of its snappy news style and pictorial content. In a county with heavy competition, it has been able to carve out its own niche and now has a regular weekly readership. Circulation & readership of Circulation 5,191 Readership Dates June to Dec 2007 Source Audit Bureau of Circulations Figures released by the Audit Bureau of Circulation show that the sales of the weekly paper increased by 21.4% over the twelve month period to June 2008. The Donegal Post is one of four papers in the Rivermedia group that circulate in the county of Donegal. The others include the Letterkenny Post, the Finn Valley Post and the Inish Times. The other papers in the group are the Derry News, County Derry Post and the Kildare Post. Donegal Post External links • Donegal Post official site [4] • ABC audited figures [5] Notes [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] http:/ / www. rivermedia. ie http:/ / www. donegalpost. com/ http:/ / www. donegaldemocrat. ie/ donegalnews/ River-Media-newspapers-report-33m. 6482341. jp http:/ / www. donegalpost. com http:/ / www. abc-ireland. ie 293 Donegal Times 294 Donegal Times Donegal Times Type Community Newspaper Published Fortnightly Format Tabloid Owner Liam Hyland Editor Liam Hyland Founded 24 March 1989 Headquarters Donegal Town Official website www.donegaltimes.com [1] The Donegal Times is a local newspaper in County Donegal, Ireland. The paper is based in Donegal Town. The paper acts like a newsletter, covering mainly community and social issues affecting the town and its immediate environs. It was first printed in March 1989 as a special supplement in the Donegal Democrat, but is now a stand-alone publication, ordinarily published on the second and fourth Wednesday of the month. Only one edition is published in December. The Donegal Times is one of three papers that has a base in Donegal Town, the other two being the Donegal Democrat and the Donegal Post. The paper has stopped updating its website with stories and now acts only as an archive of older articles. It uses a sketch of Donegal Castle as its logo. The paper regularly takes a stance on issues which have polarized the community. High-profile examples are rows which erupted over reports on the Donegal Town Mart and the Donegal Bay Waterbus. Popular additions to the paper are comment pieces the 'Editor's Diary' which started in 2010 and 'JR's Diary' which has resumed after many years of absence. References [1] http:/ / www. donegaltimes. com/ Ocean FM (Ireland) 295 Ocean FM (Ireland) For the British radio station, see Ocean FM (UK) Ocean FM (Ireland) Broadcast area South Donegal, North Leitrim and Sligo Slogan 'The perfect music mix (for the northwest)' Frequency 94.7MHz (Ballyshannon), 102.5MHz (Truskmore), 103.0MHz (Glencolumbkille) & 105.0MHz (Barnesmore) First air date 1 October 2004 Website www.oceanfm.ie [1] Ocean FM is a local radio station that broadcasts to parts of the northwest of Ireland. The station covers the area of south County Donegal, north County Leitrim and most of County Sligo and it broadcasts into parts of south-west County Fermanagh. It started broadcasting on 1 October 2004, replacing North West Radio (NWR). The station broadcasts from three separate locations, one in each county: • Donegal Town (South Donegal) • Manorhamilton (North Leitrim) • Collooney (County Sligo) Locally owned and locally operated, Ocean FM serves all adults in Coounty Sligo, South Donegal and North Leitrim. Their shareholders include many of the leading business people and sports personalities in the region. They broadcast news, sports, current affairs, special interest programmes across parts of the northwest. Every week two thirds of all adults in their franchise area tune in to Ocean FM and the station has up to four times more listeners than their nearest rival at peak listening times. Ocean FMs largest audience is in the 25-55 age group with a day time music mix that appeals particularly to this demographic. Daytime programming is complemented by specialist music programming in the evening that appeals to older and to younger listeners. The Ocean FM news and sport team is well known across the region and keeps their listeners up to date with bulletins tailored for South Donegal and Sligo/North Leitrim. Ocean FM covers sports events across the region with live commentary at key matches involving teams from all three counties. Studios in Colloney, County Sligo, Donegal Town and Manorhamilton allow them to broadcast to communities in every corner of their franchise area. www.oceanfm.ie [1] is one of the busiest sites in the country with almost 2m visits every year. The service is streamed live to every corner of the globe through a high quality web stream, twitter and facebook. [2] References [1] http:/ / www. oceanfm. ie [2] http:/ / www. oceanfm. ie/ page/ about_us2 Larrikin Love 296 Larrikin Love Larrikin Love Origin Twickenham, London, England Genres Indie rock, Indie folk Years active 2005–2007 Labels Warner Past members Edward Larrikin Micko Larkin Alfie Ambrose Coz Kerrigan Larrikin Love were an English four piece indie rock band from London. Consisting of Edward Larrikin (vocals), Micko Larkin (guitar), Alfie Ambrose (bass) and Coz Kerrigan (drums), and also occasionally including violinist Rob Skipper from The Holloways or roving violinist Jonnie Fielding, the band were briefly described as being part of a Thamesbeat scene by the NME, a scene which is now widely accepted as having never really existed. They experiment with many different styles of music including punk, reggae, calypso, and bluegrass, and tend to add something of an Irish folk flavour to the typical indie rock sound,[1] While often compared musically to bands such as The Clash, The Pogues and The Libertines,[2] the band drew many of their lyrical influences from literature, including writers such as Rimbaud, Wilde and Orwell.[3] After releasing their first two singles on the independent labels Young and Lost Club and Transgressive Records respectively, the band signed to Warner as part of a 'consultancy deal' between Warner and Transgressive.[4] The band released their debut album, The Freedom Spark on the 25 September 2006. On 4 May 2007 it was announced that the band had decided to split up, shortly before the release of their debut album in continental Europe. Edward is currently committed to his solo project: Pan I Am, similar to Larrikin Love in that it is rooted in Irish folk and bluegrass but different in that Ed has introduced an electronic element to his sound. [5] Coz is currently drumming for Twickenham-based band Marner Brown while Micko Larkin has been working with Courtney Love and her band Hole in Los Angeles. Alfie is now in a new band called Gaoler's daughter, which features members of the littl'ans. Discography Albums • The Freedom Spark (25 September 2006), No. 37 (UK) Singles • • • • • • "Six Queens"/"Little Boy Lost" (19 September 2005) "Happy as Annie" (2005) "Edwould" (3 April 2006), No. 49 (UK)[6] "Downing Street Kindling" (6 June 2006), No. 35 (UK)[6] "Happy as Annie" (reissue) (18 September 2006), No. 32 (UK)[6] "Well, Love Does Furnish a Life" (22 January 2007) No. 31 (UK)[6] Larrikin Love Other • "A Horse with No Name" (Cover of the America song) on Take it Easy: 15 Soft Rock Anthems (Q Magazine, 2006) References [1] "Larrikin Love Tour Dates & Tickets" (http:/ / www. ents24. com/ web/ artist/ 78904/ Larrikin_Love. html). Ents24. . Retrieved 2007-05-05. [2] Price, Simon (2 April 2006). "Larrikin Love, Water Rats, London" (http:/ / enjoyment. independent. co. uk/ music/ reviews/ article355254. ece). The Independent. . Retrieved 2007-05-05. [3] Renshaw, David. "Larrikin Love" (http:/ / www. gigwise. com/ profile. asp?contentid=13397). Gigwise. . Retrieved 2007-05-05. [4] Paphides, Pete (6 January 2006). "Today the world. Tomorrow ..?" (http:/ / entertainment. timesonline. co. uk/ article/ 0,,14932-1971640,00. html). The Times. . Retrieved 2007-05-05. [5] "Larrikin Love split up" (http:/ / www. nme. com/ news/ larrikin-love/ 28139). NME.com. 2007-05-04. . Retrieved 2007-05-05. [6] "Larrikin Love chart history" (http:/ / www. theofficialcharts. com/ artist/ _/ larrikin love/ ). The Official Charts Company. . Retrieved 2010-05-06. External links • Official Website (http://www.larrikinlove.co.uk) • Official MySpace (http://www.myspace.com/larrikinlove) • Interview: April 2006 (http://www.musicOMH.com/interviews/larrikin-love_0506.htm) • Article On Larrikin love at Lieutenant Crab, a website dedicated to New Music (http://lieutenantcrab. googlepages.com/larrikinlove) Colonel Robertson's Fund Colonel Robertson[1] was the son of a clergyman of Donegal Town, County Donegal, Ireland. Colonel Robertson's made a substantial contribution to education in Donegal, in that, his legacy to the Diocese of Raphoe contributed to the transition between the outdoor Hedge school and the indoor-based education provided by the National School system. History By 1858, the Commissioners of Education[2] and others were of the opinion that the legacy was hindering the development of education in the schools contributed to. Colonel Robertson's will of 25 of December 1790[3], bequeathed a sum of money, out of the interest of which, £15 per annum was to be paid to each of the parishes in the diocese of Raphoe, in the 19th century, for the support of a school-master to instruct children of all religious denominations. This fund increased and enabled the trustees to grant £40 to each parish, for the erection of a school-house, provided an acre of land on a perpetually renewable lease be obtained for a site. "There is in the Diocese of Raphoe a very munificent Endowment for the education of the Children of the lower orders of the people, established under the last Will and Testament of the late Colonel Robertson, who in the year 1790, by his last Will and Testament dated 25 September in that year, did among other Bequests therein mentioned make the following:"I give and devise to the Parishes of the Diocese of Raphoe a sum of money, which by its interest at the rate of five per cent shall be found sufficient to produce fifteen pounds sterling annually to each Parish, for or towards establishing a School therein, and purchasing books, as well of entertainment as of instruction, in every Parish of said Diocese; and it is to be understood, that such as in said Parishes may not be of the Established Religion, are notwithstanding to share equally in this Legacy, which it is to be hoped will contribute to their conformation with the 297 Colonel Robertson's Fund English church, by enlightening their understandings; and I do appoint the Lord Primate of Ireland, the lord Archbishop of Dublin, the Lord Bishop, Dean, Archdeacon and Rectors of said Diocese for the time being, to be Trustees herein for said Parishes, with a power to form such regulations in the founding and conducting of said Schools aforesaid as may seem best to them; and to dispose of, in the purchase of Lands of Inheritance in fee simple, or to put to interest on good security in Ireland, the aforesaid sum of money." Decree of 1803 On Monday the 7th day of March, 1803, the Right honourable the Lord Chancellor of Ireland, Lord Redesdale, was pleased to pronounce the following Decree respecting said Charitable Bequest. DECREE: It is ordered, adjudged and decreed by the Right honourable the Lord Chancellor of Ireland, that the Bequests in the Testator's Will to the Parishes of the Diocese of Raphoe, of a sum of money, which by its Interest, at the rate of five pounds per cent, shall be found sufficient to produce 15 pounds sterling annually to each Parish, ought to be considered as a Bequest of 300 pounds sterling for the benefit of each Parish; and it appearing that there are 31 Parishes in said Diocese, it is further ordered that the said Bequest ought to be Deemed and is hereby decreed as a Bequest of the sum of nine thousand three hundred pounds sterling, payable within one year after the death of the Testator." From the 'The Thirteenth Report of the Commissioners for enquiring into the State of all Schools on Public or Charitable Foundations in Ireland', 18 March 1812 In 1858, the Commissioners of Education[2] inspected the schools and found that the Fund had become a hindrance to the development of education. It was observed that "when the entire support of the master is thrown on the endowment by the rector of the parish, the bequest of Colonel Robertson becomes an evil rather than a benefit, as, by superseding all other support, it introduces a starveling, useless school. With some exceptions, the diocese of Raphoe would have been provided with parochial schools of a better class if the endowment had never been made." Colonel Robertson's fund supported in the order of one hundred schools in Donegal in the 19th century. Today, there are a number of schools that carry the name Robertson in Donegal. For example, Robertson National School, Ballintra and Robertson National School, Lifford. References [1] A TOPOGRAPHICAL DICTIONARY OF IRELAND, COMPRISING THE SEVERAL COUNTIES, CITIES, BOROUGHS, CORPORATE, MARKET, AND POST TOWNS. PARISHES, AND VILLAGES, WITH HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL DESCRIPTIONS; EMBELLISHED WITH ENGRAVINGS OF THE ARMS OF THE CITIES, BISHOPRICKS, CORPORATE TOWNS, AND BOROUGHS; OF THE SEALS OF THE SEVERAL MUNICIPAL CORPORATIONS: APPENDIX, DESCRIBING THE ELECTORAL BOUNDARIES OF THE SEVERAL BOROUGHS, AS DEFINED BY THE ACT OF THE 2d & 3d OF WILLIAM IV. BY SAMUEL LEWIS. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON: PUBLISHED BY S. LEWIS & Co. 87, ALDERSGATE STREET. MDCCCXXXVII. [2] Report of Her Majesty's Commissioners Appointed to Inquire into the Endownments, Funds and Actual Condition of all Schools Endowed for the Purposes of education in Ireland, 1858 [3] The Thirteenth Report of the Commissioners for enquiring into the State of all Schools on Public or Charitable Foundations in Ireland, 18th of March, 1812 298 John White (Conservative MP) 299 John White (Conservative MP) John White (May 6, 1833 – September 24, 1894) was an Ontario machinist and political figure. He represented Hastings East in the Canadian House of Commons as a Conservative member from 1871 to 1887.[1] He was born in Donegal, County Donegal, Ireland in 1833[1] and grew up there. In 1856, he married Esther Johnston. He operated a cheese factory on the Moira River near the town of Roslin. White served as reeve for Tyendinaga. He was elected to the House of Commons by acclamation in an 1871 by-election after the sitting member was named to the Senate. White was Grand Master for the Orange Lodge in Ontario East and, in 1874, became Deputy Grand Master for British North America.[2] John White Source: Library and Archives Canada In 1856, White married Esther Johnson. He died in Victoria, British Columbia at the age of 61.[3] History professor Donald Akenson of Queen's University, in his book At Face Value, proposed that this John White may have actually been Eliza McCormack White, John White's sister, and so, the first woman elected to the House of Commons. Akenson later revealed the book to be a hoax, based on Daniel Defoe's Moll Flanders.[4] References [1] John White (Conservative MP) - Parliament of Canada biography (http:/ / www2. parl. gc. ca/ parlinfo/ Files/ Parliamentarian. aspx?Item=d4542db0-3877-41ca-9e94-92a820724fea& Language=E& Section=ALL) [2] The Canadian parliamentary companion and annual register, 1881, [[Charles H. Mackintosh|CH Mackintosh (http:/ / www. canadiana. org/ ECO/ mtq?doc=32955)] ] [3] Johnson, J.K. (1968). The Canadian Directory of Parliament 1867-1967. Public Archives of Canada. [4] * T. F. Rigelhof, Piratical, Political Prank Blurred Boundaries (http:/ / www. theglobeandmail. com/ news/ arts/ article7961. ece), The Globe and Mail, April 10, 2009. Further reading • At Face Value: The Life and Times of Eliza McCormack/John White, Don Akenson McGill-Queen's University Press (1990) (ISBN 0-7735-0765-5) Alexander Porter 300 Alexander Porter Alexander Porter United States Senator from Louisiana In office December 19, 1833 – January 5, 1837 Preceded by Josiah S. Johnston Succeeded by Alexandre Mouton Personal details Born June 24, 1785 County Donegal, Ireland Died January 13, 1844 (aged 58) Attakapas, Louisiana, U.S. Political party Whig Alma mater Clemenceau College Profession Politician, Lawyer, Judge, Farmer Alexander Porter (June 24, 1785 – January 13, 1844) was a United States Senator from Louisiana. Born in County Donegal, Ireland, he immigrated to the United States in 1801 with an uncle, who settled in Nashville, Tennessee. He received a limited schooling, attended the now-defunct Clemenceau College, studied law, was admitted to the bar in 1807, and commenced practice in the Attakapas region of the Territory of Orleans. He was a delegate to the convention which framed the first Louisiana Constitution in 1812 and was a member of the lower branch of the Louisiana Legislature from 1816 to 1818.[1] Porter was a judge of the Louisiana Supreme Court from 1821 to 1833. He was elected as a Whig to the U.S. Senate to fill the vacancy caused by the death of Josiah S. Johnston, and served from December 19, 1833, until January 5, 1837, when he resigned due to ill health. He continued the practice of law in Attakapas and was a planter. Porter was again elected to the U.S. Senate for the term beginning March 4, 1843, but did not take his seat due to ill health and Henry Johnson took it instead. He died in Attakapas in 1844, and interment was on Oakland plantation in Franklin, Louisiana. Alexander Porter Sources • Alexander Porter [2] at the Biographical Directory of the United States Congress [1] Louisiana Department of Culture, Recreation and Tourism. "Alexander Porter Historical Marker" (http:/ / www. stoppingpoints. com/ louisiana/ St. -Mary/ Alexander+ Porter. html). . [2] http:/ / bioguide. congress. gov/ scripts/ biodisplay. pl?index=P000436 External links • Alexander Porter (http://www.findagrave.com/cgi-bin/fg.cgi?page=gr&GRid=7205551) at Find A Grave 301 Abbey Vocational School 302 Abbey Vocational School Abbey Vocational School Scoil na Mainistreach Location Donegal Town Coordinates 54°38′54.8″N 8°6′47.02″W Information Motto Established Principal Maintained by Staff Mol an óige from Irish saying: 'mol an óige agus tiocfaidh sí' ('praise the young and they will come with you') 1953 (Donegal Technical School) Abbey Vocational School from 1982 Emmanuel McCormack County Donegal VEC 60 Number of students 794 [1] Website avsdonegal.com [2] The Abbey Vocational School (also known as the AVS or the 'Tech'; Scoil na Mainistreach in Irish) is a non-denominational vocational secondary school situated in Donegal Town, County Donegal. It has approximately 800 students, and is the largest school run by the Donegal Vocational Education Committee. The school is located on the outskirts of the town and is named after the 15th-century Franciscan friary (commonly referred to as an Abbey), the ruins of which lie a few hundred metres from the school. Courses offered include the Junior and Leaving Certificates, Transition Year, Leaving Certificate Vocational Programme (LCVP), as well as a range of Post-Leaving Certificate courses (PLCs), and it is also one of the top feeder schools for Letterkenny Institute of Technology (LYIT). Like most schools now operated by the VEC, the AVS has moved away from a strongly vocational syllabus towards a more general curriculum including modern languages and sciences. The building itself is single story with almost sixty class rooms, including general purpose, computer, science, music, engineering and drama rooms. The school also has extensive sport facilities including grass pitches, tennis/basketball courts, gymnasium and athletic track. History The first proper school to offer secondary education in Donegal Town was called Eske College, which existed until the 1920s when it was renamed as Fisher's High School and continued until the 1930s. It was replaced more than a decade later by Four Masters High School (Irish: Ardscoil na gCeithre Máistir), which was a fee paying school founded by F.R. Cleary and located next to the town's railway station. However, it was not until 1953 that free secondary education was made available with the establishment of the Technical School (Irish: An Cheard Scoil; known locally as the 'Tech') which was located on the Killybegs road, close to the town centre. In 1972, the VEC took control of the town's High School, and merged it with the Technical School to create Donegal Vocational School (Irish: Gairmscoil Dhún na nGall). However, as numbers continued to expand the school became increasingly stretched and was based in eight different centres with almost 600 pupils. It was at this point a decision as taken to relocate the school to a new 14-acre (unknown operator: u'strong' m2) site on the southern edge of the Abbey Vocational School town, on the Ballyshannon Road, overlooking Donegal Bay and Donegal Abbey. The new building was opened in 1982, with the school renamed as the Abbey Vocational School to reflect its new location. The buildings used prior to the opening of the new school still remain in use, serving as the Donegal Town Library and Donegal Adult Education Centre.[3] Identity The school's crest is a decorative window from Donegal Friary surrounded by the initials of the Four Masters (Míchéal Ó Cléirigh, Cúcugríche Ó Cléirigh, Cúcugríche Ó Duigneán and Fearfeasa Ó Maolchonaire). The crest was introduced upon the opening of the new buildings in 1982, with a model of the window erected in front of the school, it was also at this time that a school uniform was introduced, and it currently consists of a grey jumper and trousers/skirt and a maroon shirt. The motto of the school is 'mol an óige' meaning 'praise the young' and is an extract from the Irish saying, 'mol an óige agus tiocfaidh sí' (English: praise the young and they will come with you). The motto also features as part of the crest, which also includes the proclamation 'Chum Gloiré Dé agus Onóra na hÉireann' (English: 'For the Glory of God and Honour of Ireland'). Sport The school has had recent success in the sport of basketball, in particular with the under-16 boys age group, which won the All Ireland Cup and League at 'C Level' and the 2nd year boys at B level while reaching the 16 final at 'B' level. At present time all age groups in the school are competing at 'A Level'. In 2007 the schools Under 15 Girls athletics team won the Ulster Schools title and finished runners up in the All Ireland schools.The schools Under 15 Girls 4 x 100 m relay team were Ulster and All Ireland winners. At the Donegal Sports Star Awards function in Letterkenny the Abbey Voc School were winners of the Co Councils Chairman's Cup in recognition of the schools outstanding overall sporting success during 2007. Individually, Margaret McGroary has been recognised for her outstanding achievements in the All-Ireland long jump tournament in May, 2008. She set a new Irish under 16 record despite having back problems in recent times. Other notable mentions for individual sporting successes are for Daniel Harley who moved Lancaster, England in late 2009, to fulfill his as a semi-pro badminton player. Jason Carr has also played in the Ireland u-16 basketball team. Past Principals • • • • 1953-1975: Paddy Rooney 1975-2001: J.J. Harvey 2001-2006: Mary Ann Kane 2006–Present: Emanuel McCormack Deputies • • • • • • 1954-1996: Oliver Plunkett 1996-2001: Mary Ann Kane 1998-2000: Alec Reid 2001-2004: David Murphy 2004–2010: Colman Lee 2010-Present: Ronan Doherty 303 Abbey Vocational School References [1] Donegal VEC (http:/ / www. donegalvec. ie/ joomla/ index. php?Itemid=82& id=18& option=com_content& task=view). Retrieved on 2008-02-04 [2] http:/ / avsdonegal. com/ [3] Sweeney M. The Sands of Time, A History of Donegal Town and its Environs (Tirhugh Press 2006) p. 295-6 ISBN 0-9553155-0-6 External links • AVS President's Award Site (http://www.awardslinku.com/members/abbey_voc/) List of abbeys and priories in Ireland Abbeys and priories in Ireland lists abbeys, priories, friaries or other monastic religious houses in Ireland. This article does not include foundations in Northern Ireland, which are covered in List of abbeys and priories in Northern Ireland. Overview Article layout The list is presented alphabetically by County. Foundations are listed alphabetically within each county. Communities/provenance: shows the status and communities existing at each establishment, together with such dates as have been established as well as the fate of the establishment after dissolution, and the current status of the site. Alt. Name: some of the establishments have had alternative names over the course of time. In order to assist in text-searching such alternatives in name or spelling have been provided. Formal Name/dedication: shows the formal name of the establishment or the person in whose name the church is dedicated, where known. Refs.: presents links to online references to the particular establishment in addition to the general printed and online references given at the foot of this article. Establishments for which online references have not been specified are referred to within the printed references listed. Location: provides a link to the geographical position of the site of the foundation where established. Where the location has been established the location is pinpointed (dependent on the available resolution of the map data), otherwise the general location is given in italic. Monastic Glossary: following the listing, provides links to articles on the particular monastic orders as well as other terms which appear in the listing. Abbreviations and Key 304 List of abbeys and priories in Ireland 305 The sites listed are ruins or fragmentary remains unless indicated thus:* indicates current monastic function + indicates current non-monastic ecclesiastic function ^ indicates current non-ecclesiastic function = indicates remains incorporated into later structure # indicates no identifiable trace of the monastic foundation remains ~ indicates exact site of monastic foundation unknown Trusteeship denoted as follows:NM National Monument C.I. Church of Ireland R.C. Roman Catholic Church Other abbreviations ante before post after trns transferred rmv removed c. circa (about) fd. founded dis. dissolved fl. flourished (where fd. and dis. not known) exp. expelled rfd. refounded blt. built dst. destroyed prob. probably poss. possibly List of Houses by County County Carlow Foundation Image Communities/provenance Alt. Name Formal Name/dedication Refs. Location Acaun # supposed monastic site - order and period unknown 52°50′31″N 6°43′02″W Agha Monastery Celtic monks fd. by St Fintan; poss. not fl. post10thC Achad-finglass Monastery; Achadfinglass Monastery; Augha Monastery [1] [2] 52°43′00″N 6°55′11″W Aghade Priory Augustinian (Arrouasian) nuns, cell of St Mary de Hogges, Dublin fd. 1151 by Dermot mac Murchard, King of Leinster; dis. ante1500? Athaddy Priory; Athade Priory; Aghade Nunnery; Aghadh Priory [3] [4] 52°45′36″N 6°44′12″W List of abbeys and priories in Ireland 306 Ballymoon Preceptory Supposed (though dubious) establishment of Knights Templar fd. c.1300 Bally MacWilliam-roe Preceptory Carlow Monastery Celtic monks Poor Clare Monastery Carlow, Graiguecullen Poor Clares fd. 19thC [5] 52°49′55″N 6°56′02″W Clonmore Monastery Celtic monks fd. 6thC by St Mogue; poss. not fl. post10thC [6] 52°49′38″N 6°34′10″W Dunleckney Preceptory Knights Templar fd. 1300-1308 Killerig Preceptory Knights Templar fd. ante1216 by Gilbert de Borard; Knights Hospitaller dis. and granted to the wife of Gerard Aylmer 1590 Killeshin Monastery Celtic monks fd. 6thC by St Comghan Leighlin Abbey Celtic monks fd. 7thC by St Gobban Leighlinbridge Monastery Carmelite monks fd. ante1273 by a member of the Carew family; dis. and converted into a fort Lorum Monastery Celtic monks St Mullin's Monastery [2] 52°42′00″N 6°54′26″W 52°50′03″N 6°55′32″W 52°42′29″N 6°57′13″W Killargy Preceptory; Killarge Preceptory 52°50′36″N 6°47′17″W [7] 52°50′57″N 6°59′38″W [2] 52°44′11″N 7°01′45″W [2] 52°44′08″N 6°58′42″W Celtic monks fd. 7thC; (NM) [8] 52°29′20″N 6°55′39″W St Mullin's Abbey Augustinian Canons Regular fd. 632 by St Molling; plundered and burnt ante1138; (NM) [8] [9] 52°29′20″N 6°55′39″W Tullow Abbey # Knights Hospitaller fd. 1212; Augustinian Canons Regular dis.; granted to Thomas, Earl of Ormond, December 1557 [10] 52°48′11″N 6°43′58″W County Cavan Old Leighlin Abbey Tully Abbey; Tullagh Abbey; The Black Abbey List of abbeys and priories in Ireland Foundation Image 307 Communities/provenance Alt. Name Formal Name/dedication Refs. The Friary Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary, Cavan Location Cavan Friary Dominican Friars fd. (c.)1300 by Giolla O'Reilly; Franciscan Friars c.1393; Observant-Franciscan Friars ante1516-1826 Drumlane Abbey Celtic monks fd. ante550, reputedly by St Maidoc; Augustinian Canons Regular fd. 12thC; dis.; granted for a term of 21 years to Hugh O'Reilly, Head of the Brenie sept c.1570; prob. demolished 16thC Killinagh Monastery Celtic monks Killachad Abbey fd. ante800 by St Tigernach; plundered by the English late12thC Kilmore Abbey Celtic monks fd. 6thC by St Columb; now the site of the Church of Ireland Cathedral Lough Oughter Abbey Premonstratensian Canons fd. 1237 by Clarus M. Moylon, Archdeacon of Elphin dis. and granted for a period of 21 years to Hugh O'Reilly, Head of the Brenie sept 1570 Slanore Monastery Celtic monks fd. by Colman mac Echdach 53°57′37″N 7°25′24″W Tomregan Monastery Celtic monks 54°06′59″N 7°35′43″W Urney Monastery Celtic monks Drumlane Priory; Dromlahan Priory 53°59′23″N 7°21′43″W The Priory Church of Saint Mary, Drumlane [11] 54°03′33″N 7°28′40″W 54°17′11″N 7°54′42″W 53°59′34″N 7°24′36″W Trinity Priory 53°59′11″N 7°27′47″W [12] 54°02′55″N 7°24′15″W County Clare Foundation Image Communities/provenance Alt. Name Bishop's Island Monastery Celtic monks fd. 6thC by St Senan Canon Island Abbey Augustinian Canons Regular fd. end12thC by Donald O'Brien, King of Limerick; dis.; granted to Henry, Earl of Thomond; (NM) Inisnegananagh Priory Clare Abbey, Clarecastle Augustinian Canons Regular fd. 1189 or 1191 by Donald O'Brien, King of Limerick dis.; granted to Henry, Earl of Thomond 1661; (NM) Clareabbey Formal Name/dedication Refs. [13] [14] Location 52°40′29″N 9°41′28″W 52°39′57″N 9°03′11″W The Abbey Church of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, Clareabbey 52°49′44″N 8°58′09″W List of abbeys and priories in Ireland 308 Corcomroe Abbey Cistercian monks fd. 1194/5, endowed by Donald O'Brien, King of Limerick; dis.; granted to Richard Harding; (NM) Sancta Maria de Petra Fertili The Abbey Church of Saint Mary of the Fertile Rock, Corcomroe Drumcliff Monastery Celtic monks fd. 6thC reputedly by St Colmcille Dysert O Dea Monastery Celtic monks fd. ante735; remains of 12thC church on site Ennis Friary * Franciscan Friars fd. ante1242? by Donchad Cairbreach O'Brien, King of Thomond; c.1284 reformed 1550; dis.; granted to the Earl of Thomond 1578; granted to William Dongan Esq.; last friar died 1617; friars returned 1628; exp. 1651; friars returned c.1660; exp. 1693; parish church 1615; Franciscan Friars 1969–present Ennis Friary * Franciscan Friars fd. 1841; acq. 1854; Provincial Novitiate House 1877; Novitiate House of the Irish Province 1902 52°50′46″N 8°58′54″W Ennis Monastery * Poor Clares 52°50′48″N 8°59′01″W Enniskerry Monastery Celtic nuns Mutton Island Monastery 52°48′47″N 9°30′45″W Ennistimon Monastery Celtic monks Ennistymon Monastery 52°56′16″N 9°18′05″W Feenish Monastery Celtic nuns Glencolumbkille Abbey Columban monks fd. by St Columcille; CI Church on site Glan Columb-chille 53°02′01″N 9°00′00″W Illaunmore Monastery Celtic monks poss. not fl. post10thC Mucinis Monastery? 52°57′55″N 8°17′42″W Illaunmore #, Lough Derg poss. monastic site - order and period unknown 52°35′57″N 9°46′21″W Inchicronan Priory Augustinian Canons Regular from Inchycronayne Clareabbey Monastery fd. 1189 by Donald O'Brien, King of Limerick, parish church 1302, blt. on the site of an earlier monastery; dis.; granted to Henry, Earl of Thomond 1661; (NM) 52°55′05″N 8°54′23″W Dissert O'Dea Monastery Nave: St Francis [15] 53°07′36″N 9°03′14″W [16] [17] 52°52′04″N 8°59′51″W [18] [19] 52°54′33″N 9°04′06″W 52°50′46″N [20] [21][22][23] 8°58′54″W 52°42′21″N 8°58′20″W List of abbeys and priories in Ireland 309 Inishcealtra Monastery, Inishcealtra (Holy Island) fd. 653 by St Camin, buried here Iniskeltair Abbey; Iniscealtra Monastery; Inis Cealtra Abbey; Inishcaltra Monastery Inishloe Abbey Celtic monks fd. by Turlogh, King of Thomond, buried here Inisanlaoi Abbey Kilcarragh Monastery Granted to John King Kilfenora Monastery Celtic monks prob. continuing post1111 Kilfenora Abbey Franciscan friars; (NM) Killadusert Monastery Celtic monks Killaloe Monastery Celtic monks prob. continuing post1111 Killone Abbey Augustinian nuns fd. 1180 (or monks fd. 1120) by Donald O'Brien, King of Limerick now in the grounds of Newhall House, with public access Killoen Abbey Kilshanny Monastery Augustinian Canons Regular cell dis.; granted to Robert Hickman Kilshonny Monastery Kilnagellech Monastery Celtic nuns Kinagalliagh Monastery Noughaval Monastery Celtic monks [24] [25] 52°54′56″N 8°26′54″W 52°40′37″N 9°01′10″W [26] 52°59′14″N 9°13′29″W 52°54′56″N 9°12′55″W Killadysert Monastery 52°40′24″N 9°06′24″W 52°48′20″N 8°26′30″W The Abbey Church of Saint John, Killone 52°48′22″N 9°00′16″W [15] [27][28] 52°38′53″N 9°33′54″W [29] Outhgmama Monastery 52°58′49″N 9°17′59″W 52°58′01″N 9°15′34″W 53°00′57″N 9°10′58″W 53°07′50″N 8°58′05″W Quin Abbey Franciscan friars blt. 1402-1433 by MacNamara; dis.; granted to Sir Tirlagh O'Brien, of Irishdyman 1583; repaired by Roman Catholics 1604; (NM) Quin Friary; Quinchy Monastery 52°49′04″N 8°51′31″W Rath Monastery Celtic monks Rathblathmaic Monastery 52°54′41″N 9°04′29″W Rossmanagher Monastery Celtic nuns Scattery Island Monastery Celtic monks fd. 6thC by St Senan (or by St Patrick); granted to the Mayor and Corporation of Limerick c.1577 52°43′14″N 8°47′09″W Inishscattery Monastery 52°36′51″N 9°31′01″W List of abbeys and priories in Ireland 310 Tomfinlough Monastery Celtic monks; prob. not continuing post10thC; site now occupied by remains of Tomfinlough church Finlough Monastery 52°46′59″N 8°50′22″W Tomgraney Abbey Celtic monks Tomgrany Abbey; Tuamgranney Abbey; Tuamgraney Abbey 52°53′51″N 8°32′31″W Tulla Abbey Celtic monks 52°52′01″N 8°45′24″W The following supposed foundation in Co. Clare is prob. a confusion of other sites in Ireland:Inchmore Abbey: (fd. by St Senan): An Ecclesiastical History of Ireland:[30] County Cork Foundation Image Communities/provenance Alt. Name Formal Name/dedication Refs. Location Abbeymahon Abbey Cistercian monks trns from Aghamanister fd. 1278 by Count McSheribay; dis. 1541 Abbey Mahon Abbey; Maure Abbey [31] 51°38′12″N 8°44′11″W Abbeystrowry Abbey Cistercian monks fd. 14thC Strowry Abbey [32] '51°33′06″N 9°17′19″W Aghadown Monastery Celtic monks Aughadown Monastery Aghamanister Abbey Cistercian monks from Baltinglass; fd. 1172 by Dermot MacCormac MacCarthy, King of Desmond trns to Abbeymahon 1278 [31] 51°37′32″N 8°46′28″W Ballybeg Priory Augustinian Canons Regular fd. 1229 by Philip de Barry; dis.; granted for 21 years to George Boucher, Esq c.1573 (who forfeited for non-payment of rent); granted to the wife of Sir Thomas Norris, Governor of Munster; (NM) [33] [33] 52°13′10″N 8°40′11″W Ballygarvan ~ supposed monastic site - order and period unknown Ballymacadane Abbey nuns fd. 1450 by Cormac MacCarthy Ballymacadane Friary Franciscan Friars, Third Order Regular 51°50′18″N 8°34′09″W Ballynoe ~ supposed monastic site - order and period unknown 51°59′31″N 8°03′39″W 51°32′19″N 9°23′12″W 51°49′20″N 8°27′43″W Ballymacadane Nunnery [34] 51°50′18″N 8°34′09″W List of abbeys and priories in Ireland 311 Ballyvourney Abbey Celtic nuns blt. 650 by St Abban, for St Gobonate; poss. continuing after 1111 Franciscan Friars, Third Order Regular Ballvourney Abbey [35] 51°56′36″N 9°10′19″W Bantry Friary Franciscan Friars fd. 1466 by Dermot O'Sullivan Beare demolished [36] [37] 51°40′45″N 9°27′00″W Bawnatemple Monastery Celtic monks Bridgetown Abbey Augustinian Canons Regular fd. early13thC by Alexander FitzHugh Roche Brigown Monastery Celtic monks poss. not continuing post10thC Buttevant Friary Franciscan Friars fd. 1251 (or 1290) by David Oge Barry, Lord Buttevant; dis.; re-occupied from Restoration to post1800; (NM) Ecclesia Tumulorum Carrigillihy Monastery poss. Cistercian monks; blt. 1172 by Dermot MacCarthy, King of Desmond; dis.; granted to Nicholas Walshe, in perpetuity c.1587 Carigillihy Monastery; Curraghalicky Abbey; Abbey de Sancto Mauro Castlecor ~ supposed monastic site - order and period unknown Castlelyons Abbey Carmelite monks fd. from within the de Barry family Castle Lyons Abbey [40] 52°05′21″N 8°14′02″W Castlelyons Friary Dominican friars, fd. 1307 by John de Barry; Dominicans, Franciscans and Carmelites were associated with the foundation dis. 1541; granted to Richard Boyle, Earl of Cork a hedge school 18thC Castle Lyons Monastery [41] 52°05′28″N 8°14′25″W Castlemartyr Priory Carmelite monks 51°54′36″N 8°03′31″W Cecilstown ~ supposed monastic site - order and period unknown 52°10′01″N 8°46′13″W Clear Island Monastery Celtic monks 51°26′18″N 9°30′34″W Clogagh Friary Franciscan Friars, Third Order Regular 51°40′29″N 8°48′01″W Clonmeen Monastery Augustinian Canons Regular fd. by Mr O'Callaghan 51°53′14″N 8°52′22″W Bridge Town Priory [38] 52°08′58″N 8°27′00″W 52°15′40″N 8°16′07″W [39] 52°13′54″N 8°40′09″W 51°32′23″N 9°07′41″W 52°12′11″N 8°48′07″W Clonmere Monastery 52°08′16″N 8°51′54″W List of abbeys and priories in Ireland 312 Cloyne Cathedral Monastery and Nunnery Nunnery; dst. many times by Vikings 51°51′42″N 8°07′09″W Coole Abbey Franciscan friars 52°06′33″N 8°12′14″W Cork Augustinian Abbey Augustinian Canons Regular fd. 600 by St Finbar; dis.; granted c.1590 to Cormac MacCarthy and Sir Richard Grenville CI Church on site Cork Augustinian Priory * Augustinian Canons Regular blt. 1780 Cork Monastery # site prob. now occupied by St Finbarr's Cathedral Cork Augustinian Monastery Augustinian Canons Regular fd. 14th/15thC by Lord Kinsale; dis.; granted to Cormac MacCarthy c.1576 Cork Black Friary Dominican friars fd. 1229 by Philip de Barry; dis.; granted to William Boureman c.1543 Cork - Gill Abbey fd. 7thC; site near University College, Cork Cork - St Stephen's Priory fd. ante1295; converted to the Blue-coat Hospital 1674 Cork Grey Friary Franciscan friars fd. 1214 by Dermont MacCarthy Reagh; dis.; granted to Andrew Skydy c.1565 Cork Nunnery nuns fd. c.1327 by William de Barry poss. on site later occupied by Market House Cork Preceptory Knights Templar blt. 1292 Cullen Monastery Celtic nuns Donaghmore Monastery fd. by St Fingene now parochial church Donoughmore Monastery 51°59′20″N 8°44′37″W Fermoy Monastery Cistercian monks dis.; granted to Sir Richard Grenville c.1590 de Castro Dei #? 52°08′15″N 8°16′54″W Garinish Monastery Celtic monks Kilchuillin Monastery 51°41′26″N 9°37′06″W Glanworth Abbey Dominican friars fd. 1227 by the Roche family Goleen Friary Franciscan friars [42] 51°53′53″N 8°28′33″W 51°53′40″N 8°28′49″W Red Abbey Tower The Abbey Church of the Most Holy Trinity [43] 51°53′39″N 8°28′20″W [44] 51°53′38″N 8°29′35″W [44] 52°06′44″N 9°07′09″W [41] [45] Gahannyh Friary? 52°11′18″N 8°21′17″W 51°29′42″N 9°42′26″W List of abbeys and priories in Ireland 313 Gouganebarra Monastery Celtic monks Gougane Barra Monastery 51°49′53″N 9°20′50″W Inishcarra Monastery Celtic monks fd. by St Senan; dis. Iniscarra Monastery; Iniscara Abbey 51°54′30″N 8°39′15″W Inishleena Monastery Celtic nuns 51°54′25″N 8°42′04″W Iniskieran Monastery Franciscan friars Clear Island fd. 1460 by Florence Moar O'Driscoll Monastery 51°26′20″N 9°29′43″W Kilbeacon Monastery Celtic monks; fd. 650 by St Abban Kilcatherine Cell Celtic nuns fd. by St Caitiarn, niece of St Senan; double monastery Kilcrea Friary Franciscan friars fd. 1465 by Cormac MacCarthy More, King of Desmond; dis. 1577; granted on lease to Sir Cormock MacCarthy who left the Friars in occupancy sacked 1599; rst. 1604; exp. c.1614; granted by Oliver Cromwell to Lord Broghill 1641 in trusteeship of Commissioners of Public Works 1892; (NM) Cell Catigern; Cell-chatiern; Cell-chatigern [46] 51°42′56″N 9°58′10″W 51°51′47″N 8°42′41″W Kilcrea Nunnery 51°51′41″N 8°42′41″W Kilcrumper Monastery Celtic monks Benedictine monks; bestowed on Glascarrig 15thC Cill Cruimthir Monastery Kilkilleen ~ supposed monastic site - order and period unknown 51°31′40″N 9°23′33″W Killabraher ~ supposed monastic site - order and period unknown 52°15′46″N 8°48′11″W Killaconenagh Monastery Celtic nuns [47] Killachad conchean? 52°11′18″N 8°16′09″W 51°38′19″N 9°56′53″W Killeenemer Monastery Kilmaclenine Monastery Celtic monks 52°12′40″N 8°45′08″W Kilmoney Priory Augustinian Canons Regular 51°47′53″N 8°24′16″W Kilnamanagh Monastery Celtic nuns Kinneigh Monastery Celtic monks fd. by St Colman; poss. not surviving post10thC Kinsale Priory Augustinian Canons Regular Kilmana Monastery 51°37′55″N 10°02′55″W 51°46′02″N 8°59′23″W St Gobban 51°42′28″N 8°31′43″W List of abbeys and priories in Ireland 314 Kinsale Friary* Carmelite Friars fd. 1334 by Robert Fitzrichard Balrain; dis. 1543; re-blt 2003-2006 Kinsale Abbey The Friary Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary; the Friary Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel 51°42′31″N [48] [49][50] 8°31′30″W Kilshanahan ~ supposed monastic site - order and period unknown Labbamolaga Monastery Celtic monks fd. 7thC by St Molaga, reputedly buried here [51] 52°18′03″N 8°20′30″W Legan Abbey, Monkstown Benedictine monks, daughter house of Waterford Priory fl. 1301 [52] 51°51′01″N 8°20′07″W 52°02′07″N 8°19′18″W Lueim Monastery Lough Ine Monastery Celtic monks Templebreedy Monastery 51°29′59″N 9°17′51″W Midleton Abbey # Cistercian monks from Monasteranenagh fd. 1179/80 by the FitzGerald family (or the Barry family); dis. ante1573; dst. 19thC; Baptist church of St John reputedly occupies the site de Choro Sancti The Abbey Church of Benedicti; Saint Mary of Chore Monasterore Abbey; Middleton Abbey [53] Monanimy Commandery Knights Templar Monanimy Preceptory [54] [55] Mourne Abbey Knights Templar fd. 13thC by Alexander de Sancta Helena; later, Knights Hospitaller Mourne Preceptory; Ballynamona Preceptory 51°54′49″N 8°10′28″W 52°04′52″N 8°37′35″W The Priory, Newmarket 52°12′56″N 8°59′52″W Nohaval Monastery Celtic monks 51°43′19″N 8°23′19″W Nohavaldaly Monastery Celtic monks Nohaval-daly Monastery Ross Priory Benedictine monks fd. 590 by Saint Fachnan Mougach Rosscarbery Priory; Rosailithir Ross Carberry Priory Sherkin Friary Observant-Franciscan Friars fd. 1460/1470; dis. 1537; (NM) Sherkin Island Abbey Skeam West Monastery Celtic monks 51°29′43″N 9°26′11″W Spittle Bridge Monastery Celtic monks 52°12′10″N 8°16′30″W Strawhall Monastery Celtic monks Kilbrenan Monastery 52°05′51″N 9°12′09″W The Priory Church of Saint Mary, Rosscarbery 51°34′36″N 9°01′59″W 51°28′34″N 9°23′59″W 51°49′08″N 8°47′31″W List of abbeys and priories in Ireland 315 Templefaughtna ~ supposed Knights Templar foundation 51°34′38″N 8°59′51″W Timoleague Friary Franciscan Friars 'Timoleague Abbey' trns from Cregan 1279, blt on the site of an earlier monastery; dis.; passed to Lord Inchiquin; (NM) 51°38′31″N 8°45′53″W Toames Monastery Celtic monks Tuaim-muscraighe Monastery? 51°52′02″N 8°57′12″W Tracton Abbey Cistercian monks blt. 1224 by McCarthy dis.; granted to James Craig and Henry Guilford 1568; assigned by Craig to the Earl of Cork Albus tractus 51°45′41″N 8°23′32″W Tullylease Abbey Augustinian Canons Regular Weeme Priory Augustinian Canons Regular fl. 14thC North Abbey, Youghal Dominican monks blt. 1268 by Maurice, descendant of Lord Offaly; dis.; granted to William Walsh c.1580 51°57′27″N 7°51′15″W South Abbey, Youghal Franciscan monks blt. 1224 by Maurice Fitzgerald, Lord Chief Justice of Ireland 51°56′56″N 7°50′33″W Youghal Priory Benedictine monks 51°57′24″N 7°51′05″W 52°19′03″N 8°56′27″W County Donegal Foundation Image Communities/provenance Ard Mhuire Friary* Capuchin-Franciscan Friars Assaroe Abbey Cistercian monks from Boyle fd. 1178 by Roderick O'Cananan, Prince of Tyrconnell; dis. post1597 Balleeghan Friary Franciscan Friars Alt. Name Ballysaggart Friary Refs. Location 55°07′22″N 7°54′37″W Astrath Abbey 54°30′33″N 8°12′03″W 54°58′52″N 7°36′22″W Ballymacswiney Monastery Ballymagroarty Monastery Formal Name/dedication 55°08′18″N 7°54′50″W Ballymagrorty Monastery Franciscan Friars of the Third Fanagarah Friary; Order Regular, fd. c. 1500(?), Fanegarah Monastery dissolved c. 1602 54°33′01″N 8°08′07″W 54°35′39″N 8°23′34″W List of abbeys and priories in Ireland 316 Bothchonais Monastery Celtic monks fl. 11thC 55°17′26″N 7°12′34″W Clonca Monastery Celtic monks 55°22′14″N 7°19′48″W Clonleigh Monastery Celtic monks blt. by St Columb c.530; C.I. church on site 54°52′20″N 7°27′19″W Clonmany Monastery Celtic monks blt. by St Columb; prob. fl. post1111 55°15′41″N 7°24′39″W Conwal Abbey Celtic monks fd. c.587; prob. fl. post1111 Conwall Monastery Cnodain Monastery 54°56′31″N 7°46′58″W mentioned by Wm Cobbett Desertegny Monastery Celtic monks Domnachglinne Tochair Monastery Celtic monks Domnachglinne Tochuir Monastery Domnach-mor-magene Monastery Celtic monks Domnachmormagene Monastery Donagh Monastery Celtic monks Donegal Friary Observant-Franciscan fd. 1473/4; dis. 1601; (NM) Donagmore Monastery Celtic monks poss. fl. post1111 54°47′29″N 7°33′09″W Drumhome Monastery Celtic monks poss. fl. post1111 54°35′59″N 8°08′33″W Eskaheen 55°10′27″N 7°29′53″W 54°28′53″N 8°16′23″W 55°15′08″N 7°15′38″W 'Donegal Abbey'; Donegall Friary Iskaheen Monastery 54°39′02″N 8°06′56″W 55°05′22″N 7°16′51″W Fahan Monastery Celtic monks fd. by St Columb, poss. fl. post10thC site now occupied by C.I. church 55°05′00″N 7°27′39″W Gartan-Rath Monastery Celtic monks fd. by St Columb 521 Glencolumbkille Monastery Celtic monks poss. not fl. post10thC Inis Saimer Monastery# Celtic monks Ines Samer Monastery 54°30′03″N 8°12′01″W Inishkeel Monastery Celtic monks Inis Keel Monastery 54°50′51″N 8°27′17″W Inver Abbey blt. 563 by St Nutalis Franciscan Friary blt. on site (see immediately below) Garton Monastery; Gartan Monastery 55°00′56″N 7°54′31″W 54°42′37″N 8°43′31″W 54°39′11″N 8°17′04″W List of abbeys and priories in Ireland 317 Inver Friary Franciscan Friars; fd. c.1500 on the remains of an earlier abbey (see immediately above) 54°39′11″N 8°17′04″W Kilbarron Monastery Celtic monks 54°32′05″N 8°12′58″W Kilcar Monastery Celtic monks, founded by St. Carthach in the 6th century Killybegs Friary Franciscan Friars blt. by M'Sweeney-bannig 54°38′07″N 8°27′00″W Killydonnell Friary Franciscan Friars 55°01′24″N 7°37′00″W Kilmacrenan Friary Franciscan Friars blt. on the site of earlier abbey C.I. church on site 55°01′50″N 7°46′40″W Kilmacrenan Monastery Celtic monks poss. fl. post1111 55°01′50″N 7°46′40″W Kilmonaster Monastery Cistercian monks blt. 1194 by O'Dogharty Lough Derg Monastery, Station Island Celtic monks; Augustinian Canons Regular c.1130, trns to Saints Island 54°36′57″N 7°52′55″W Lough Derg Friary, Saints Island Augustinian Canons Regular c.1130 Franciscan Friars fd. ante1631 54°36′56″N 7°53′07″W Lough Derg Monastery, Station Island Franciscan Friars 1763 54°36′57″N 7°52′55″W Magherabeg Friary Franciscan Friars of the Third Order Regular, fd. c. 1430, dissolved 1601 54°38′06″N 8°07′21″W Mevagh Monastery Celtic monks 55°12′21″N 7°49′03″W Moville Monastery Celtic monks 55°11′17″N 7°02′26″W Moyra Monastery, Ray site occupied by remains of a 16thC church Racoon Monastery, nr Ballintra Patrician monks fd. c.440 Raphoe Monastery Celtic monks poss. fl. post1111 diocesan cathedral built on site Rathmullan Priory Carmelite friars fd. 1516 by Owen Roe MacSweeney plundered by Bingham 1595 55°05′40″N 7°32′11″W Raymoghy Monastery Celtic monks poss. not fl. post10thC 54°56′35″N 7°37′54″W Kilcartaich Monastery 54°38′01″N 8°35′31″W Kilfothuir Monastery; Hilfothuir Abbey Kill-Fothuir Abbey 54°49′35″N 7°34′38″W 54°34′33″N 8°07′37″W [56] 54°52′14″N 7°36′14″W List of abbeys and priories in Ireland 318 Rossnowlagh Friary* Franciscan friars 54°32′49″N 8°12′23″W Taughboyne Monastery Celtic monks 54°56′25″N 7°31′35″W Temple Douglas 54°58′05″N 7°52′12″W on the site of an earlier monastery Columban (6thC); (NM) Tory Island Abbey#? 55°15′52″N 8°13′45″W Tullaghobegley Monastery 55°06′18″N 8°05′27″W County Dublin Foundation Image Communities/provenance Alt. Name Formal Name/dedication Refs. Location Balally supposed Early Christian monastic site Balally (Irish: Baile Amhlaoibh, meaning "the town of Olaf") may commenorate a Viking saint. Baldongan supposed monastic site of friary & nunnery within the walls of the 13th century Baldongan Castle - order and period unknown Baldungan 53°33′48″N 6°06′47″W Ballyboghill Monastery Celtic monks Ballyboughal Monastery 53°31′06″N 6°15′59″W Ballymadun supposed monastic site - order and period unknown 53°32′22″N 6°24′13″W Ballyman supposed Knights Templar site 53°12′09″N 6°10′21″W Castleknock Monastery Benedictine monks 53°22′19″N 6°21′33″W Clondalkin Abbey Celtic monks poss. fl. post1111 53°19′19″N 6°23′46″W Clontarf Monastery Celtic monkssite now occupied by C.I. church 53°21′58″N 6°12′27″W Clontarf Preceptory Knights Templar fd. 13thC, later Knights HospitallerClontarf Castle built on site, now the Clontarf Castle Hotel 53°21′53″N 6°12′26″W Cruagh Monastery Celtic monks 53°14′37″N 6°18′47″W St. Mary's Abbey, Dublin Savignac monks, from Chester fd. c.1139; Cistercian monks 1147; (NM) 53°20′52″N 6°16′10″W St Thomas's Abbey, Dublin Augustinian Canons Regular fd. 1177 by King Henry II The Abbey Church of [57] Saint Thomas the Martyr, Dublin List of abbeys and priories in Ireland 319 Finglas Monastery Celtic monks fd.560 by St Canice; poss. not fl. post10thC; site occupied by remains of a medieval church 53°23′23″N 6°17′48″W Glasmore Monastery Celtic monks 53°29′11″N 6°18′49″W Glasnevin Monastery Celtic monks poss. not fl. post10thC 53°23′34″N 6°14′15″W Grace Dieu Abbey, nr. Donabate Augustinian Canons Regular, Turvey House was built from the remains of the abbey 53°30′02″N 6°11′23″W Grange Abbey (NM) Howth Abbey The Collegiate Church of St. Mary, Howth 53°23′15″N 6°03′57″W Ireland's Eye Monastery 53°24′18″N 6°03′50″W Lambay Island Monastery# 53°29′18″N 6°01′25″W Loreto Abbey Sisters of Loreto Loreto Abbey, Dalkey Sisters of Loreto formerly Rathfarnham House Lusk Abbey 53°31′34″N 6°10′03″W 'The Abbey', Malahide ruins of a chapel Rathfarnham Priory sometime home of the Curran family 53°26′42″N 6°09′49″W Rathmichael Monastery, Carrickgolligan Hill Red Island Monastery, Skerries Holmpatrick Priory, Skerries Augustinian Canons Regular, site now occupied by C.I. church Swords Monastery= fd. c.560 by St. Columbkill Tallaght Monastery# site now occupied by C.I. church Mervyn Archdall, Monasticum Hibernicum p. 256 Swords Castle 53°17′21″N 6°21′57″W List of abbeys and priories in Ireland 320 Tallaght Friary Dominican Friars Tullow/Tully Monastery? ruined 13th-C church may occupy site of an Early Christian monastic site Irish: tulach na n-Epscop, meaning "the hill of the bishops" County Galway Foundation Image Communities/provenance Alt. Name Formal Name/dedication Refs. Location Abbeygormacan Abbey Augustinian Canons Regular dis.; granted to Ulick Bourke, first Earl of Clanrickard 1543/1544 Gormacan Abbey;Abbey Gormogan Abbey Ahascragh Abbey reputedly fd. by St. Cuan; CI Church on site Ahaskeragh Abbey; Ath-ascrath Abbey Annaghdown Nunnery Celtic nuns, fd. in the 6th century by St. Brendan, was integrated into the close Abbey of St. Mary de Portu Patrum c. 1144 Annaghdown Abbey of St. Mary Arroasian Canons and Canonesses Regular fd. c. 1140 The Abbey of Saint Mary de Portu Patrum, Annaghdown Annaghdown Abbey of St. John the Baptist Premonstratensian Canons, fd. c. 1223, dissolved in 1542 Abbey of St. John the Baptist de Cella Parva Athenry Priory Dominican monks fd. 1241; dis. 1574, 1627-1652; became a university 1644; used as a barracks 18thC; (NM) The Priory Church of Saint Peter and Saint Paul 53°17′54″N 8°44′40″W Aughrim Priory Augustinian Canons Regular fd. 1220 by Theobald Butler; dis.; granted to Richard, Earl of Clanricard The Priory Church of Saint Catherine, Aughrim 53°18′12″N 8°18′55″W Caltra Friary Carmelite Friarsfd. not later than Kaltragh-ne-Pallice, 1336, dissolved 1589, restored in 1735, Caltragh Pallas, closed c. 1775 Caltranapallice Claregalway Friary Franciscan Friars sic1290-1765; (NM) Clonfert Monastery Celtic monks fd. 6thC Clonfert Abbey Augustinian Canons Regular fd. 12thC St Mary's de Porto Puro 53°14′27″N 8°03′30″W Clonkeenkerrill Friary Franciscan Friars fd. c.1435 Cloonkeenkerrill Friary, 'St. Kerrill's Abbey' 53°22′59″N 8°34′51″W Clontuskert Priory Augustinian Canons Regular 12thC-1633, 1637-, blt. on the site of an earlier monastery c.805 (NM) 'Clontuskert Abbey'; 'The Old Abbey' Aghrim Priory The Abbey Church of [58] the Blessed Virgin [59] Mary, Gormacan 53°12′59″N 8°20′32″W [60] 53°23′53″N 8°20′06″W Claregalway Abbey 53°23′13″N 9°04′22″W 53°20′48″N 8°56′41″W 53°14′27″N 8°03′30″W The Priory Church of Saint Mary, Clontuskert 53°16′47″N 8°12′42″W List of abbeys and priories in Ireland Creevaghbaun Friary Carmelite Friars, fd. in 1332, dissolved in 1574 321 Crevaghbane, Crevebane Dromacoo Monastery Dunmore Priory Augustinian Friars fd. c. 1423, friars left in 1645 Eglish Friary Carmelite friars fd. 1393–1398; possibly passed to the Franciscan friars; dis. 1579 Galway Friary Franciscan Friars fd. 1296 dest. 1657 church converted into a court house. Current court house on site. [61] 53°16′31″N 9°03′14″W Galway Franciscan Abbey Franciscan Friars blt. 1660 re-blt. 1781 [61] 53°16′34″N 9°03′17″W Inishbofin Monastery Celtic monks fd. by St Coleman, 7thC 53°36′56″N 10°11′20″W Inishmicatreer Monastery 'Inishmicatreer Abbey' 53°29′57″N 9°15′01″W Inishmore Monastery 53°37′13″N 8°44′31″W Monteceancohe, Sleushancough Na Seacht dTeampaill; (The Seven Churches) Kilbennan Monastery Celtic monks fd. by St Benignus, a disciple of St Patrick Kilcorban Friary Dominican Friars; site now occupied by St. Corban's Church Kilcolgan Abbey# Irish placename supports tradition of an early abbey founded there Kilconnell Friary Franciscan Friars fd. 1353; dis. 1541; on the site of an earlier monastery (6thC); (NM) Kilcreevanty Abbey Benedictine nuns, fd. c. 1200, converted into an Arrosian house in 1223, dissolved in 1543 53°32′19″N 8°53′31″W Killursa Monastery Kinalehin Friary, nr. Abbey Carthusian monks, poss. from Hinton fd. c.1252; dis. by General Chapter the Grande Chartreuse1321; granted by Gregory XI to Franciscan Friars c. 1371 Kinaleghin, Kilnalahan [62] 53°06′10″N 8°23′39″W List of abbeys and priories in Ireland 322 Kilmacduagh Monastery fd. 7thC by St. Colman son of Duagh Cathedral 11thC.; St. Mary's Church c.1200, Abbot's house 13thC., O'Heyne's Church 13thC., round tower (leaning, 34 m. high, doorway 8 m. above ground, 11thC.?) 53°02′53″N 8°53′17″W Knockmoy Abbey Cistercian monks from Boyle fd. 1190 Collis Victoriae dis. 1542 (NM) Abbeyknockmoy; Abbeyknockmoy Abbey 53°26′26″N 8°44′33″W Kylemore Abbey Benedictine monks; mansion now serves as convent boarding school 53°33′42″N 9°53′22″W Loughrea Priory Carmelite monks fd. c. 1300; Discalced Carmelites since 1640 53°12′00″N 8°34′12″W Meelick Friary+ Franciscan Friars fd. 1414; Observant-Franciscan 1479-Reformation, 1680, intermittently-1852; now R.C. church 53°10′25″N 8°05′08″W Monasternalea Monastery Abbey Grey Monastery; Abbeygrey Monastery 53°33′29″N 8°21′56″W Portumna Friary Dominican monks fd. 1426, on the site Portumna Abbey of the Cistercian monks' priory (see immediately below) The Friary Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary, Portumna Portumna Priory Cistercian monks 1254; Dominican friary fd, on site (see immediately above) The Priory Church of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, Portumna Ross Errilly Friary, nr Headford Franciscan Friars fd. c.1351; Observant-Franciscan 1470-1656, c.1664-1753; (NM) Roundstone Priory Dominican monks Toombeola Abbey Dominican monks County Kerry Portumna Abbey 53°05′10″N 8°13′03″W 53°28′47″N 9°07′54″W List of abbeys and priories in Ireland Foundation Image 323 Communities/provenance Alt. Name Odorney; Kyrie Eleison Formal Name/dedication Refs. Location Abbeydorney Abbey Cistercian monks, daughter house of Monasteranenagh fd. 1154 dis. 1537 (though last abbot active until 1577) site now in use as a graveyard 52°21′12″N 9°41′15″W Aghadoe Monastery ?Augustinian Canons Regular fd. 7thC by St Finan Lobhar; fl. 992; non-monastic church of the Holy Trinity and St Mary built on site 1158; (NM) Ardfert Abbey Georgian mansion Ardfert Friary Franciscan Friars fd. c.1253; (NM) 52°19′48″N 9°46′26″W Ballinskelligs Priory Augustinian Canons Regular fd. 12thC; (NM) 51°48′56″N 10°16′19″W Ballyduff Abbey 13thC, 15thC 52°04′36″N 9°33′16″W Church Island Monastery, Valencia Harbour 51°56′15″N 10°17′00″W Church Island Monastery, Lough Currane 51°50′05″N 10°07′45″W Derrynane Abbey, nr. Caherdaniel 6thC 51°45′27″N 10°08′34″W Illauntannig Island Monastery, Maghree Islands Celtic monks 52°19′34″N 10°01′12″W Innisfallen Abbey, Innisfallen Island Augustinian Canons Regular, on site of an earlier foundation (7thC); (NM) 52°02′48″N 9°33′15″W Kilcolman Abbey, Milltown Killagh Priory, Milltown 52°08′59″N 9°43′50″W Augustinian Canons Regular Kilrellig Monastery, Bolus Head 52°08′58″N 9°43′49″W 51°47′48″N 10°18′39″W Lislaughtin Abbey Franciscan monks 1478-dissolution, 1629-?, prob. blt. on the site of an earlier monastery (7thC); (NM) 52°01′34″N 9°29′41″W Muckross Abbey Franciscan monks 52°33′26″N 9°28′12″W Rattoo Monastery, nr. Ballyduff ?Augustinian Canons Regular (NM) 52°26′33″N 9°38′59″W Rattoo Abbey, nr. Ballyduff Augustinian Canons Regular to the east of monastery (see immediately above) (NM) 52°26′35″N 9°38′46″W List of abbeys and priories in Ireland 324 Riasc Monastery 6thC to 12thC 52°10′03″N 10°23′16″W Skellig Michael Monastery, Great Skellig Island Augustinian Canons Regular 51°46′20″N 10°32′19″W Tralee Holy Cross Priory Dominican Friars The Dominican Church of Holy Cross Abbey; The Priory of the Holy Cross, Tralee 52°16′05″N 9°42′35″W [63] County Kildare Foundation Image Communities/provenance Athy Priory Dominican monks fd. 1257; dis. 1539 Athy Priory Cruciferi (Augustinian Hospitallers) Castledermot Friary Franciscan Friars fd. ante1247; dis. 1540 Castledermot Monastery Celtic monks fd. c.800; prob. fl. post1111 Castledermot Priory Cruciferi (Augustinian Hospitallers) Alt. Name Formal Name/dedication Refs. Location Celbridge Abbey Clane Friary Franciscan Friars fd. 1258; dis. 1540, 1647-c.1650 Clane Monastery Celtic monks fd. c.800; prob. fl. post1111 Clonagh supposed house - order and period unknown Cloncurry Friary Carmelite Friars Donaghmore Monastery Patrician monks/Columban monks 6thC Dunmanoge Monastery Celtic monks prob. not fl. post10thC Dunmurraghill Monastery Celtic monks prob. not fl. post10thC Great Connell Priory Augustinian Canons Regular Inchaquire supposed house - order and period unknown Kilberry supposed house - order and period unknown Kilcock [supposed] nuns' house - order and period unknown 53°17′21″N 6°40′59″W List of abbeys and priories in Ireland Kilcork 325 supposed Knights Templar house - period unknown Kildare Nunnery Black Abbey, Kildare Knights Hospitaller Grey Abbey, Kildare Franciscan Friars fd. c.1254/1260; Observant-Franciscan 1520; dis. 1547; 1621-c.1770 White Abbey, Kildare Carmelite monks Kilberry Abbey Kilcullen Abbey Observant-Franciscan 1486-1547, 1640s Kildare Abbey fd. c.470 by St Brigid Kilteel preceptory, Kilteel Knights Hospitaller New Abbey Leixlip Abbey The Abbey Church of Saint Wolstan, Leixlip Monasterevin Monastery# Cistercian monks 1189; site now (thought to be) occupied by a stately home named 'Moore Abbey', in use as a hospice 1945–present (below) Moone Abbey 6thC Moore Abbey*, Monasterevin Sisters of Charity of Jesus and Mary 1945–present; stately home (thought to be) blt. on the site of Monasterevin Monastery (above), in use as a hospice Naas Monasteries Several medieval monastic foundations located at Naas Oughter Ard Monastery, church and round tower largely destroyed by Vikings in 995; northwest of Kill Timolin Monastery# Timolin = Tigh Moling - 'St. Moling's Monastery' County Kilkenny Tomolin Monastery List of abbeys and priories in Ireland Foundation Image 326 Communities/provenance Anothmolt Abbey Cistercian monks, from Loghmere fd. ante1207; trns to Graiguenamanagh ante1207 Ballylarkin Abbey 13thC?; (NM) Callan Priory Augustinian Canons Regular fd. c.1215 Callan Augustinian Friary Observant-Augustinian Canons Regular fd. c.1462 Duiske Abbey+, Graiguenamanagh Cistercian monks fd. ante1207; dis. 1536; part of church is in R.C. ecclesiastical use; (NM) Fertagh Monastery Augustinian Canons Regular, 13thC-1780; now part of a handball alley Fiddown Monastery fd. 6thC; church demolished 1870 Freshford Monastery site now occupied by parish church Grangefertagh Monastery 6thC, site occupied by round tower and ruined chapel Inistioge Monastery+ Augustinian Canons Regularincorporated into C.I. parish church Jerpoint Abbey Benedictine monks 1158, Cistercian monks from Baltinglass 1180; occupies the site of an earlier Benedictine monastery, traces of which remain (NM). Thomastown R.C. church contains the high altar from Jerpoint Abbey Kells Friary Augustinian Canons Regular Kells Priory Augustinian Canons Regular 1193-1540 (NM) St. John's Priory, Kilkenny Priory and C.I. parish church Kilkenny Grey Friary Franciscan friars 1231/4-1550, 1553–1559 Kilkenny Black Friary* Dominican friars 1225-16thC; used as a courthouse; restored 1970s; now in parochial use Kilkiernan Monastery Killamery Monastery fd. c.632 Knocktopher Friary^ Carmelite friars; remains incorporated into private house Alt. Name Formal Name/dedication Refs. Location Annamult Abbey 'Callan Abbey' 52°32′45″N 7°23′14″W Graiguenamanagh Abbey 52°32′28″N 6°57′17″W Fertagh Monastery 52°30′39″N 7°09′29″W 52°32′20″N 7°16′00″W The Priory Church of Saint John, Kilkenny The Abbey Church of Saint Francis, Kilkenny 'Black Abbey' List of abbeys and priories in Ireland 327 Loghmere Abbey Cistercian monks, from Stanley fd. 1202/4; trns to Anothmolt ante1207 Rosbercon Abbey Dominican friars fd. 13thC Tibberaghny Monastery fd. 6thC Loughmerans Abbey Tullaherin Monastery County Laois Foundation Image Communities/provenance Alt. Name Formal Name/dedication Refs. Location Abbeyleix Abbey# Cistercian monks from Baltinglass fd. 1183/4 by Corcherger O'Moore (Cucogry O’More); dis. 1552 Leix Abbey; Lex Dei Aghaboe Monastery# fd. 6thC by St Canice 52°55′20″N 7°30′50″W Aghaboe Priory Augustinian Canons Regular fd. 1382; on site of Aghaboe Monastery (above); dis.; granted to Florence FitzPatrick c.1600 52°55′20″N 7°30′50″W Aghaboe Friary Dominican friars fd. 1382 Clonenagh Monastery fd. 6thC by St Fintan; site now occupied by Clonenagh Church Erril Monastery Killeshin Monastery fd. late 545 by St Comghan; 1077; site occupied by ruined 12thC church (NM) Oughaval Monastery fd. c. 595 by St Colman of Oughaval; was a parish church after the 12th century; was modified in the 19th century by the Cosby family Rosenallis Monastery fd. by St Brigid of Kildare; dis. 1537 Sleaty Monastery fd. by St Ficah; site occupied by remains of Sleaty Church Timahoe Monastery County Leitrim 53°08′09″N 7°24′20″W Sletty Monastery 52°51′29″N 6°56′30″W 52°57′37″N 7°12′12″W List of abbeys and priories in Ireland Foundation Image 328 Communities/provenance Alt. Name Formal Name/dedication Refs. Location Anaghduffe Abbey fd. 766; CI church on site Creevelea Friary Franciscan friars 1508-1590, 1618–1837 Dromahair Friary 54°13′52″N 8°18′35″W Rossclogher Abbey, Kinlough nuns fd. 8thC by St Tigenach, for his mother, St Mella Doire Melle; Doiremelle Nunnery 54°26′28″N 8°14′25″W County Limerick Foundation Image Communities/provenance Abbeyfeale Abbey Cistercian monks fd. 1188 by Brian O'Brien Abington Abbey Cistercian monks from Arklow 1205-post1557 Adare Friary + Augustinian Canons Regular c.1316; now in use as C.I. parish church Adare Friary, (Franciscan) Franciscan friars 1464; now in the grounds of Adare Manor with public access Adare Trinitarian Monastery Trinitarian friars fd. c.1230; dis. 1539 Alt. Name Franciscan friars 1389; (NM) Ballingarry Friary Franciscan friars Location 52°23′09″N 9°18′03″W Mainister Uaithne; Woney Abbey; Owney Abbey 52°34′04″N 8°47′05″W 'The Black Abbey' Dysert Monastery, Carrigeen Glenstal Abbey * Refs. [64] Ardpatrick Monastery Askeaton Friary Formal Name/dedication Benedictine monks; mansion now in monastic use, and also a school. Killeedy nunnery Kilmallock Monastery Kilmallock Friary Dominican friars 1291-(1548)-1641; Killmallock (NM) Friary Monasteranenagh Abbey Cistercian monks from Mellifont 1148/51-1541; (NM) 52°34′18″N 8°46′35″W List of abbeys and priories in Ireland 329 St. Katherine's Abbey, Monisternagalliaghduff, nr. Shanagolden Augustinian nuns fd. 1298; dis. 1541 Mungret Abbey (NM) Rathkeale Abbey Augustinian Canons Regular fd. 13thC Rathkeale Priory The Abbey Church of Saint Mary, Rathkeale County Longford Foundation Image Communities/provenance Alt. Name Formal Name/dedication Refs. Location Abbeyderg Abbey Augustinian Canons Regular 53°38′17″N 7°47′15″W Abbeylara Abbey Cistercian monks from St Mary's, Dublin 1210/14-1540 Lara Abbey 53°45′52″N 7°26′46″W Abbeyshrule Abbey Cistercian monks from Mellifont fd. 1200; dis. 1592; (NM) Shrule Abbey 53°32′23″N 9°06′45″W Ballinasaggart Friary Franciscan ante15thC-1811 The Friary Church of Saint John the Baptist of Longford Inchcleraun Monastery, Loughree Inchmore Abbey, Lough Gowna 53°49′24″N 7°34′05″W Dominican monks Longford Friary# County Louth Foundation Image Communities/provenance Alt. Name Formal Name/dedication Refs. Location Carlingford Friary Dominican monks fd. 1315-1540; disputed between Dominican monks and Franciscan 1670s, Dominican monks -18thC, trns to Dundalk The Friary Church of Saint Malachy, Carlingford St. Mary's Friary, Drogheda Augustinian Canons Regular 53°42′55″N 6°21′23″W St Mary Magdalene Friary, Drogheda Observant-Franciscan 1830; Brown friary 1923 53°43′05″N 6°21′03″W Drogheda Friary# Franciscan Friars c.1240; Observant-Franciscan Friars 1506-1540 (c.1545) List of abbeys and priories in Ireland 330 Dromiskin Monastery Patrician monks 53°55′22″N 6°23′54″W Dundalk Friary Franciscan Friars fd. ante1246; Friars exiled to a small cottage 1539; Observant-Franciscan 1556-1563; returned 1626-1732 54°00′23″N 6°23′38″W Faughart Monastery Louth Monastery 6thC; (NM) Louth Abbey Dominican monks Mellifont Abbey Cistercian monks 1142-1743; converted into a house 1556; (NM) 53°57′12″N 6°32′39″W 53°44′32″N 6°27′59″W Old Mellifont Abbey Monasterboice Abbey 53°46′39″N 6°25′04″W County Mayo Foundation Image Communities/provenance Alt. Name Formal Name/dedication Refs. Location Ardnaree Friary, Ballina Augustinian Canons Regular 15thC 54°06′44″N 9°09′06″W Aughagower Abbey Augustinian Canons Regular Patrician foundation Balla Monastery 7thC Ballinasmale Friary Carmelite monks 1288-1870 Ballinrobe Priory Augustinian Friars c.1312, dissolved c. 1584 Ballintubber Abbey+ Augustinian Canons Regular 1216-1452, c.1635-1653, restored 1966; blt. on the site of an earlier monastery; (NM) Ballintober Abbey 53°45′24″N 9°16′58″W Ballyhaunis Friary Augustinian Canons Regular 1641, burned 1650, restored 1938; on the site of, and incorporating, an earlier friary 1348 'The Abbey' 53°45′46″N 8°45′44″W Burriscarra [65] Abbey Carmelite monks; (NM) Burrishoole Friary Dominican Friars 1469 'Burrishoole Abbey' Clare Island Abbey Cistercian monks, cell of Abbeyknockmoy 13thC (said to have been a Carmelite monks cell 1254) 'the Abbey'; Saint Brigid's Abbey Aghagower Abbey 53°45′51″N 9°27′53″W 53°48′19″N 9°07′53″W Ballinasmall Friary; Ballinsmaula Friary Saint Mary 53°44′16″N 8°58′07″W 53°37′35″N 9°13′15″W 53°43′51″N 9°14′44″W 53°53′56″N 9°34′20″W The Blessed Virgin Mary (from 1254) List of abbeys and priories in Ireland Cong Abbey Augustinian Canons Regular 12thC?; on the site of an earlier abbey (6thC); (NM) Crossmolina Abbey Augustinian Canons Regular fd. 1300; dis. late1530s by a member of the de Barry family Errew Abbey Augustinian Canons Regular, also nearby, remains of a church blt. on the probable site of an earlier foundation High Island Monastery 7thC; (NM) 331 53°32′26″N 9°17′14″W Mainishir Taobh The Abbey Church of Thiar do Shruth; the Blessed Virgin Crossmalyne Mary Abbey [66] [67] 54°06′26″N 9°19′06″W 54°03′11″N 9°15′48″W Ard Oilean Inishglora Monastery 54°12′31″N 10°07′10″W Inishmaan Monastery Augustinian Canons Regular Inishmaine Abbey Augustinian Canons Regular early15thC, near (/on site of?) earlier monastery (-post1227); (NM) 53°35′53″N 9°18′05″W Killala Monastery Patrician monks 54°12′47″N 9°13′16″W Killeenatrava Nunnery nuns 53°37′42″N 9°14′11″W Kilmaine Monastery Celtic, according to tradition fd. by St. Patrick, became a prebendal church of Tuam Mayo Abbey Augustinian Canons Regular 53°45′36″N 9°06′58″W Moyne Abbey Observant-Franciscan 1460-1590 54°12′08″N 9°10′38″W Murrisk Abbey Augustinian Canons Regular 1457 53°46′55″N 9°38′22″W Rathfran Friary Dominican monks 1274-1590 54°14′17″N 9°14′40″W Rosserk Friary Franciscan Third Order Friars fd. 1440 54°10′17″N 9°08′36″W Strade Friary Franciscan Friars fd. c.1240; becoming Dominican monks 1252 Urlaur Abbey Dominican monks 1430 'Straide Friary' 53°55′17″N 9°07′42″W The Abbey Church of Saint Thomas, Urlaur List of abbeys and priories in Ireland 332 County Meath Foundation Image Communities/provenance Athboy Priory# Carmelite monkssite now occupied by C.I. church Ballyboggan Abbey Augustinian Canons Regular Bective Abbey 1150-1536; on the site of an earlier abbey; (NM) Ceanannas Mor Monastery Kells Monastery Alt. Name Formal Name/dedication Refs. Location 53°37′18″N 6°55′05″W 53°34′57″N 6°42′10″W Clonard Abbey# Donaghmore, Navan supposed monastic site fd. by St Patrick, reputedly his first foundation in Ireland; remains of later church and round tower on site Donaghpatrick Monastery site now occupied by St Patrick's C.I. church Duleek Monastery Augustinian Canons Regularsite now occupied by C.I. parish church Duleek Priory Augustinian Canons Regular Kilcarn Monastery site of ancient monastery occupied by c.1200 church [68] [69] The Priory Church of Saint Mary, Duleek Newtown Abbey/Priory, Newtown-Trim Hill of Skreen Monastery#, nr. Tara (NM) Slane Abbey# Slane Friary Franciscans 1648-1650 Slane Monastery#, Slane Franciscans 1512-1540; Capuchin 1631-c.1650; (NM) Trim Monastery# ? St. Mary's Abbey, Trim Augustinian Canons Regularconverted into a Protestant school 18thC; (NM) Monastery of Our Lady of the Cenacle Benedictine Monks fd. 2012 Trim Friary Dominican Friars fd. 1263 by Geoffrey de Geneville, Lord of Meath Trim Friary# Franciscan Friars c.1282; Observant-Franciscan ante1506 Talbot Castle The Abbey Church of Saint Mary, Trim Silverstream Priory [70] [71] 53°40′13″N 6°39′43″W List of abbeys and priories in Ireland 333 County Monaghan Foundation Image Communities/provenance Clones Abbey Celtic monks; Augustinian Canons Regular Clontibret Monastery Celtic nuns Connabury Monastery Celtic nuns Donagh Monastery Celtic monks Errigal Trough Monastery Celtic monks Inniskeen Monastery Celtic monks fd. 6thC; poss. not surviving post10thC Augustinian Canons Regular Monaghan Friary~ Franciscan Friars c.1462 Observant-ranciscan -1589, 1635-early18thC Muckno Monastery Celtic monks Loughbawn Monastery supposed monastic site - order and period unknown Tedavnet Monastery Celtic nuns Tehalan Monastery Celtic monks Alt. Name Formal Name/dedication St.Tighernach Abbey Abbey of St.Peter & Paul Wee Abbey Refs. Location 54°10′59″N 7°14′01″W Clones 'Abbey': a ruined non-monastic church (NM) County Offaly Foundation Image Communities/provenance Birr Monastery# 12thC Clareen Monastery 6th C Clonmacnoise Cathedral and Monastery Alt. Name Seir Kieran Formal Name/dedication Refs. Location St. Kieran's 53°19′26″N 7°59′28″W Clonmore Abbey Drumcullen Monastery# Durrow Abbey 6thC 53°19′33″N 7°31′11″W List of abbeys and priories in Ireland 334 Durrow nunnery# Augustinian nuns Gallen Priory fd. by St. Canoc in the 5th century; refounded as house of Augustinian Canons c. 1140; dissolved c. 1585, shortly reoccupied after 1620 Killeigh Nunnery Augustinian Canonesses Kinnitty Monastery# 557; site poss. marked by a High cross within a churchyard Lemanaghan Monastery early7thC Lynally Monastery# Columban monks fd. 6thC Monasteroris Friary Franciscan Friars 1325; Observant-Franciscan 1506-1794 Mount Joseph Abbey Cistercian monks Rahan Monastery c.590-635 Seir Kieran Priory fd. in the 5th century by St. Ciaran; refounded as priory of Augustinian Canons c. 1170, and dissolved in 1568. Tihilly Monastery# 5thC County Roscommon Foundation Boyle Abbey Image Communities/provenance Cistercian monks from Buniffi 1161, on the site of an earlier monastery called Ath-da-Larc; (NM) Alt. Name Formal Name/dedication Ath-da-Larc Abbey Refs. Location 53°58′26″N 8°17′49″W Cloonshanville Abbey, nr. Frenchpark 53°52′03″N 8°23′25″W Deerane Abbey Drumconaid Abbey Cistercian monks trns from Grellechdinach c.1156; trns to Buniffi c.1158/9 Inchmacnerin Abbey, Church Island, Lough Key Patrician monks fd. 6thC; Augustinian Canons Regular fd. post1140; dis. 1569?; (NM) Kilronan Abbey 6thC Roscommon Abbey Augustinian Canons Regular fd. early8thC, Roscommon Friary Dominican monks 1253-1872? Drumcunny Abbey The Friary Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary, Roscommon 53°37′29″N 8°11′31″W List of abbeys and priories in Ireland Trinity Island Priory, Trinity Island, Lough Key 335 Premonstratensian Canons 1215/1237-1608; (NM) 'Trinity Island The Priory Church of the Abbey' Blessed Trinity, Trinity Island 53°59′21″N 8°15′16″W County Sligo Foundation Image Communities/provenance Ballindoon Priory Dominican Friars, fd. 1507, dissolved c. 1585 Ballymote Friary Franciscan Friars Third Order fd. 1442; dst. c.1587 Alt. Name Refs. Location 54°05′23″N 8°31′06″W Ballysadare Abbey Banada Priory Formal Name/dedication 54°12′54″N 8°31′04″W Augustinian Friars, fd. 1423, dissolved c. 1613 54°02′15″N 8°49′02″W Cloonoghill Abbey 54°04′19″N 8°33′16″W Cloonomeehan Friary Franciscan Friars Court Friary Franciscan Third Order Regular, fd. 1449, dissolved 1588 Drumcliff Monastery fd. 575; remains beside N15 road which bisects the site 54°03′37″N 8°35′26″W 54°19′33″N 8°29′40″W Easky Abbey 54°17′10″N 8°57′36″W Inishmurray Kilross Monastery 54°12′03″N 8°27′12″W Premonstratensian Canons Knockmore Monastery 54°00′41″N 8°34′01″W Skreen Monastery site occupied by remains of medieval church Sligo Friary Dominican monks 1253-18thC, trns 18thC; (NM) Staad Abbey County Tipperary 'Sligo Abbey' 54°16′15″N 8°28′12″W List of abbeys and priories in Ireland Foundation Image 336 Communities/provenance Alt. Name Formal Refs. Name/dedication Location Ardfinnan Monastery# ?Augustinian Canonesses 7thC Ardfinnan Abbey Carmelite nuns Athassel Priory Augustinian Canons Regular 1192; (NM) Cahir Abbey Augustinian Canons Regular; (NM) Carrickbeg Friary+, Carrick-on-Suir Franciscan Friars; remains incorporated into R.C. church Cashel Abbey Cistercian monks; (NM) Cashel Dominican Friary Dominican Friars; (NM) Cashel Franciscan Friary# Franciscan Friars; fd. 1265; site now occupied by St. John the Baptist R.C. parish church Cashel, St Dominic's Abbey Dominican monks; fd. 1243 by Archbishop David McKelly Clonmel Friary Franciscan Friars St. Aibhe's Monastery, Emly site subsequently occupied by Emly Cathedral, now occupied by C.I. parish church Holy Cross Abbey+ Cistercian monks, blt. on site of an earlier Benedictine monastery; (NM) 52°38′21″N 7°52′05″W Hore Abbey Cistercian monks 52°31′07″N 7°53′53″W Inishlounaght Abbey (De Surio) Cistercian monks Kilcooly Abbey Cistercian monks; (NM) 52°28′45″N 7°59′00″W Caher Abbey 52°31′05″N 7°53′16″W 'Hackett's Abbey' St Dominic [72] Liathmore Monastery Lorrha Monastery fd. by St. Ruadhan in the 6th century, became a priory of Augustinian Canons c. 1140 which moved to a new site (see below); the original site was reused for a medieval parish church, now in ruins; attached to it is a 19th-century Church of Ireland parish church Lorrha Friary Dominican Friars, fd. in 1269 by Walter de Burgo, dissolved in 1552 Lorrha Priory of St. Ruadán Augustinian Canons, fd. c. 1140, dissolved c. 1578 Mona Incha Abbey 53°05′28″N 8°07′34″W 53°05′31″N 8°07′16″W List of abbeys and priories in Ireland 337 Moor Abbey, Galbally (NM) Nenagh Friary Franciscan Friars, fd. in the 13th century, dissolved before 1587 Nenagh Priory and Hospital of St. John the Baptist Fratres Cruciferi, fd. c. 1200 in Tyone, a townland close to Nenagh, dissolved in 1551 Roscrea Friary Franciscan Friars, fd. before 1477, dissolved c. 1579. Roscrea Monastery fd. by St. Cronan in the 7th century; was taken over by the Augustinian Canons c. 1140; became parochial c. 1195 Templemore Abbey Knights Templar Terryglass Monastery Toomyvara Priory Augustinian Canons, fd. 1140, dissolved before 1585 County Waterford Foundation Image Communities/provenance Ardmore Cathedral Celtic Monks fd. 5thC Dungarvan Abbey Augustinian Canons Regular Lismore Abbey Celtic Monks fd. 6thC Molana Abbey Celtic monks fd. 6thC Augustinian Canons Regular fd. 13thC Mothel Abbey (NM) Mount Melleray Abbey Cistercian monks fd. 1833 Rincrew Abbey Rincrew Hill Knights Templar Waterford Friary Dominican monks Alt. Name Formal Name/dedication Refs. Location St Declan's Church/Cathedral Early Christian settlement founded by St Declan in the 5th Century 51°56′56″N 7°43′34″W Lismore Monastery; St. Carthage's Cathedral Founded in the year 635 by St Mochuda, also known as St. Carthage 52°08′23″N 7°55′46″W Situated on an island on the Blackwater river near Youghal 52°00′08″N 7°53′57″W First Cistercian Abbey in Ireland since the Protestant Reformation 52°11′14″N 7°51′25″W Situated on an hill overlooking the Blackwater river near Youghal 51°58′40″N 7°51′45″W Rincrew Preceptory; Rhincrew Preceptory List of abbeys and priories in Ireland 338 County Westmeath Foundation Image Communities/provenance Alt. Name Formal Name/dedication Refs. The Priory Church of the Holy Trinity, Ballyboggan [73] Location Athlone Abbey Athlone Friary Franciscan Friars 1241-Dissolution Ballyboggan Priory Augustinian Canons Regular dis.; granted to Sir William Bermingham 1541 De Laude Dei 53°24′35″N 7°02′38″W Church Island Monastery, Lough Owel Fore Abbey Benedictine monks; (NM) Fore Monastery c.630 Inchbofin Abbey Celtic monks; later Augustinian Canons Regular Kilbeggan Abbey a green mound said to mark the site of an ancient abey 53°41′02″N 7°13′38″W The Abbey Church of Saint Fechin, Fore 'The Church of the Relic', Kilbeggan Killare Monastery Lough Ennell Monastery Hare Island Monastery, Loughree Mullingar Friary Dominican monks 1239-dissolution Mullingar Monastery Augustinian Canons Regular 1227-dissolution Multyfarnham Friary Franciscan Friars fd. 15thC; reoccupied 1827 Tristernagh Abbey 12thC, dst. 1783 County Wexford 53°37′43″N 7°23′28″W53°37′43″N 7°23′28″W Kilbixy Abbey List of abbeys and priories in Ireland Foundation 339 Image Communities/provenance Ballyhack Preceptory# Knights Templar; now the site of Ballyhack Castle Carnsore Monastery Celtic monks Clonmines Friary Augustinian friars, fd. in the 14th century, dissolved in 1544 Dunbrody Abbey Cistercian monks from St Mary's, Dublin 1175/8-1537 Ferns Abbey Augustinian Canons Regular, fd. c. 1158 Alt. Name Formal Name/dedication Refs. Location 52°10′38″N 6°21′45″W 52°17′02″N 6°57′33″W St. Mary's Abbey Church, New Ross Rosslare Priory Selskar Abbey Augustinian Canons Regular Taghmon Monastery Augustinian Canons Regular 52°20′29″N 6°27′56″W Tintern Abbey 52°14′13″N 6°50′16″W Wexford Friary Franciscan friars, fd. c.1268 52°20′15″N 6°27′50″W County Wicklow Foundation Image Communities/provenance Arklow Abbey Cistercian monks from Wyresdale ante1204, trns to Abington 1205 Arklow Friary Dominican monks fd. 13thC Baltinglass Abbey Cistercian monks from Mellifont fd. 1148; dis. 1541; adapted as a private house and Protestant church; abandoned 1883; (NM) Glendalough Cathedral and Monastery St. Kevin St. Saviour's Monastery, nr. Derrybawn Shelton Abbey^ Vallis Salutis Abbey Formal Name/dedication Refs. Location 52°56′38″N 6°42′35″W 53°00′38″N 6°19′37″W53°00′38″N 6°19′37″W 53°00′28″N 6°18′44″W now a state forestry school Whaley Abbey Wicklow Friary Alt. Name Franciscan Friars List of abbeys and priories in Ireland 340 Locations to be established Foundation Image Communities/provenance Grellechdinach Abbey Cistercian monks from Mellifont 1148; trns to Drumconaid c.1156 Buniffi Abbey Cistercian monks trns from Drumconaid c.1158/9-1161; trns to Boyle 1161 Alt. Name Formal Name/dedication Refs. Location References • Gwynn, Aubrey; R. Neville Hadcock (1970). Medieval Religious Houses Ireland. Longman. ISBN 0-582-11229-X. • Kathleen Hughes & Ann Hamlin The Modern Traveller to the Early Irish Church, Four Courts Press (1997). ISBN 1-85182-194-5 References [1] http:/ / www. libraryireland. com/ LewisA/ Agha. php [2] http:/ / www. from-ireland. net/ car/ lewis/ carcounty. htm [3] http:/ / monasticmatrix. org/ monasticon/ ?function=detail& id=1110 [4] http:/ / www. ballonvillage. com/ Aghade%20church. htm [5] http:/ / www. poorclarescarlow. ie/ journey/ Invitation. htm [6] http:/ / www. goireland. com/ carlow/ clonmore-heritage-tour-attraction-monastic-sites-id11682. htm [7] http:/ / www. irishtourist. com/ laois/ towns/ killeshin/ [8] http:/ / www. irishtourist. com/ carlow/ towns/ saint_mullins [9] http:/ / www. goireland. com/ carlow/ saint-mullins-attraction-monastic-sites-id11684. htm [10] http:/ / www. rootsweb. ancestry. com/ ~irlcar2/ tullow_town. htm [11] http:/ / www. discoverireland. ie/ DI/ resultsengine/ IndividualResultTCS. aspx?touristItemID=48730 [12] http:/ / www. urneyandcastlefinparish. com/ Urney%20Parish/ History%20of%20the%20Parish%202. htm [13] http:/ / www. clarelibrary. ie/ eolas/ coclare/ people/ stsenan. htm [14] http:/ / www. libraryireland. com/ Atlas/ Clare. php [15] http:/ / www. libraryireland. com/ articles/ AbbeyBurrenPGI/ index. php [16] http:/ / www. goireland. com/ sligo/ monastic-sites-in-sligo-county-page1. htm [17] http:/ / www. megalithicireland. com/ High%20Cross%20Drumcliffe. htm [18] http:/ / www. dysertcastle. com/ [19] http:/ / www. clarelibrary. ie/ eolas/ coclare/ places/ the_burren/ dysert_odea_church. htm [20] http:/ / www. goireland. com/ clare/ ennis-Franciscan-friary-attraction-friaries-id12603. htm [21] http:/ / www. dochara. com/ play/ all/ ennis-friary. php [22] http:/ / www. ennisparish. com/ fe/ friary. php [23] http:/ / Franciscans. ie/ content/ view/ 24/ 33/ [24] http:/ / www. clarelibrary. ie/ eolas/ coclare/ history/ earlychristian. htm [25] http:/ / www. clare. ie/ members/ listing. php?id=17 [26] http:/ / www. clarelibrary. ie/ eolas/ coclare/ history/ dutton_survey/ dutton_survey_chapter5. 25. htm [27] http:/ / www. clarelibrary. ie/ eolas/ coclare/ history/ frost/ chap7_kilshanny_parish. htm [28] http:/ / www. lisdoonvarnakilshanny. com/ pages. asp?pageid=75584 [29] http:/ / www. goireland. com/ ireland/ monastic-sites-in-ireland-page1. htm [30] http:/ / books. google. co. uk/ books?id=sRAHAAAAQAAJ& pg=PA6& lpg=PA6& dq=inchmore+ senan& source=web& ots=kNGP9dIv7z& sig=sVGOhyiOSjiU5dVRVGiUskF-lFE& hl=en [31] http:/ / Cistercians. shef. ac. uk/ abbeys/ abbeymahon. php [32] http:/ / books. google. co. uk/ books?id=1HMuAAAAMAAJ& pg=PA240& lpg=PA240& dq=strowry+ abbey& source=web& ots=m7xy4MUAWR& sig=JFmnu12zkJJO7xahdeyjfi5BnrY& hl=en [33] http:/ / irishantiquities. bravehost. com/ cork/ buttevant/ ballybeg. html [34] http:/ / www. libraryireland. com/ topog/ i. php List of abbeys and priories in Ireland [35] http:/ / www. antiochian. org/ node/ 17505 [36] http:/ / books. google. co. uk/ books?id=HXQHAAAAQAAJ& pg=PA317& lpg=PA317& dq=bantry+ friary& source=web& ots=LXIg26St5B& sig=Mdufste76PYEFtQXuL3CkmpT_Uk& hl=en [37] http:/ / www. rhs. ac. uk/ bibl/ wwwopac. exe?DATABASE=catalo& LANGUAGE=0& OPAC_URL=accesspoint. asp& SUCCESS=& %250=384331 [38] http:/ / www. goireland. com/ cork/ bridgetown-augustinian-priory-attraction-priory-id15374. htm [39] http:/ / www. discoverireland. ie/ DI/ resultsengine/ IndividualResultTCS. aspx?touristItemID=50257 [40] http:/ / www. castlelyonsparish. com/ abbey. html [41] http:/ / www. churchtown. net/ Webpages/ thingstodo/ monuments. htm [42] http:/ / www. staugustinescork. ie/ [43] http:/ / www. staugustinescork. ie/ tour-of-st-augustines-church-cork [44] http:/ / www. localhistories. org/ cork. html [45] http:/ / www. ecclesiasticalireland. org/ glanworth/ index. htm [46] http:/ / monasticmatrix. org/ monasticon/ index. php?function=detail& id=1105 [47] http:/ / www. ballygarrett. com/ history/ glascarrig/ index. html [48] http:/ / www. Carmeliteskinsale. com/ [49] http:/ / www. carmeliteskinsale. com/ html/ history. html [50] http:/ / www. friars-lodge. com/ history. html [51] http:/ / www. goireland. com/ cork/ churches-historical-in-cork-county-page1. htm [52] http:/ / ireland. archiseek. com/ buildings_ireland/ cork/ monkstown/ lewis. html [53] http:/ / www. eastcorktourism. com/ midleton. php [54] http:/ / homepage. eircom. net/ ~killavullen/ Community%20Council/ History%20of%20Killavullen. htm [55] http:/ / www. libraryireland. com/ Lewis/ LewisM/ 21-MONANIMY. php/ index. php [56] http:/ / www. webcitation. org/ query?url=http:/ / www. geocities. com/ Heartland/ Acres/ 9655/ steunans. html& date=2009-10-25+ 07:32:04 [57] http:/ / www. chaptersofdublin. com/ books/ shortpar/ shortpar9. htm [58] http:/ / www. from-ireland. net/ lewis/ g/ abbeygormagan. htm [59] http:/ / www. mullaghgaa. com/ Website%20Pages/ Parish%20History. html [60] http:/ / books. google. co. uk/ books?id=-o9CAAAAYAAJ& pg=RA1-PA22& lpg=RA1-PA22& dq=ahascragh+ abbey+ church+ of+ ireland& source=bl& ots=obN8ongvJY& sig=DY-zSldEdXbAIDQWeHTKaHJuATw& hl=en& ei=oWlZTZ6KIoG3hQfC3PSODQ& sa=X& oi=book_result& ct=result& resnum=6& ved=0CDYQ6AEwBTgU#v=onepage& q& f=false [61] http:/ / franciscans. ie/ content/ view/ 25/ 57/ [62] http:/ / www. libraryireland. com/ articles/ carthusian/ index. php [63] http:/ / www. domstralee. com [64] http:/ / www. limerickdioceseheritage. org/ Abbeyfeale/ hyAbbeyfeale. htm [65] http:/ / irishantiquities. bravehost. com/ mayo/ burriscarra/ burriscarra. html [66] http:/ / towns. mayo-ireland. ie/ WebX?14@162. owUgacKqBR2. 0@. ee7a071 [67] http:/ / www. crossmolina. ie/ Visitors-information/ History/ Historical-Events-2006042037 [68] http:/ / www. lookaroundireland. com/ meath/ donaghmore. htm [69] http:/ / www. shopinnavan. ie/ v1/ page. asp?pg=131 [70] http:/ / cenacleosb. org/ [71] http:/ / www. heritageisland. com/ attractions/ trim-heritage-town [72] http:/ / www. cashel. ie/ attractions/ dominics. htm [73] http:/ / irishantiquities. bravehost. com/ meath/ ballyboggan/ ballyboggan. html 341 List of populated places in the Republic of Ireland List of populated places in the Republic of Ireland This is a link page for cities, towns and villages in Ireland, including townships or urban centres in Dublin and other major urban centres. Cities are shown in bold; see Cities in Ireland for an independent list. A Abbeydorney, Abbeyfeale, Abbeyknockmoy, Abbeylara, Abbeyleix, Abbeyshrule, Abbeyside, Achill Sound (Gob a' Choire), Achonry, Aclare, Adamstown (Dublin), Adamstown (Wexford), Adare, Adrigole, Affane, Aghaboe, Aghabullogue, Aghada, Aghamore, Agher, Aglish, Ahakista, Annacurra, Ahascragh, Aherla, Ahiohill, Allen, Allenwood, Allihies, An Daingean, Anglesboro, Annacotty, Annagassan, Annagry (Anagaire), Annamoe, Annascaul, Annestown, Annyalla, Ardagh, Ardara, Ardcroney, Ardee, Ardfert, Ardfield, Ardgroom, Ardmore, Ardpatrick, Ardrahan, Ardsallis, Arigna, Arklow, Arless, Artane, Arthurstown, Arvagh, Ashbourne, Ashford, Askeaton, Askill, Athboy, Athea, Athenry, Athgarvan, Athlacca, Athleague, Athlone, Athy, Attymass, Attymon, Aughagower, Aughleam (Eachléim), Aughrim (Galway), Aughrim (Wicklow), Avoca B Bailieborough, Balbriggan, Baldoyle, Balgriffin, Balla, Ballaghaderreen, Ballaghmore, Balally, Ballickmoyler, Ballina (Mayo), Ballina (Tipperary), Ballinaclash, Ballinacurra, Ballinadee, Ballinagar, Ballinagh, Ballinaglera, Ballinagree, Ballinakill, Ballinalee, Ballinamore, Ballinascarty, Ballinasloe, Ballincollig, Ballindaggin, Ballinderreen, Ballindine, Ballindooley, Ballineen, Ballingarry (Limerick), Ballingarry (Tipperary), Ballingeary (Béal Átha an Ghaorthaidh), Ballingurteen, Ballinhassig, Ballinkillin, Ballinlough, Ballinode, Ballinroad, Ballinrobe, Ballinskelligs (Baile an Sceilg), Ballinteer, Ballintemple, Ballintra, Ballintober (Roscommon), Ballintogher, Ballintubber (Mayo), Ballsbridge, Ballysadare, Ballitore, Ballon, Ballybay, Ballybeggan, Ballyboden, Ballybofey, Ballybough, Ballybrack, Ballybrittas, Ballybrophy, Ballybunion, Ballycanew, Ballycarney, Ballycastle, Ballycolla, Ballyconnell, Ballyconneely, Ballycotton, Ballycroy, Ballycullane, Ballycumber, Ballydavid (Baile na nGall), Ballydehob, Ballydesmond, Ballyduff (Kerry), Ballyduff (Waterford), Ballyduff (Wexford), Ballyedmond, Ballyfarnan, Ballyfermot, Ballyferriter (Baile an Fheirtéaraigh), Ballyfin, Ballyforan, Ballygarrett, Ballygarvan, Ballygawley, Ballyhack, Ballyhaise, Ballyhale, Ballyhaunis, Ballyhea, Ballyheigue, Ballyhide, Ballyhuppahane, Ballyjamesduff, Ballykeeran, Ballyknockan, Ballylanders, Ballylaneen, Ballyleague, Ballylickey, Ballyliffin, Ballylongford, Ballylooby, Ballylinan, Ballymacward, Ballymagauran, Ballymahon, Ballymakeera (Baile Mhic Íre), Ballymascanlan, Ballymoe, Ballymore (Cork), Ballymore (Westmeath), Ballymore Eustace, Ballymote, Ballymount, Ballymun, Ballymurphy, Ballynacally, Ballynacargy, Ballynahinch, Ballynahown (Baile na hAbhann), Ballynanty, Ballyneal, Ballyogan, Ballyporeen, Ballyragget, Ballyroan, Ballysaggart, Ballyshannon, Ballysloe, Ballyvary, Ballyvaughan, Ballyvourney (Baile Bhuirne), Ballywilliam, Balscadden, Baltimore, Baltinglass, Banagher, Bandon, Bangor Erris, Bannow, Bansha, Banteer, Bantry, Barefield, Barleycove, Barna (Bearna), Barnane, Barrowhouse, Batterstown, Bawnboy, Bayside, Bealadangan (Béal a' Daingin), Bective, Bekan, Belcarra, Belderrig (Béal Deirg), Belfield, Bellanagare, Bellanamullia, Bellavary, Bellewstown, Belmullet (Béal an Mhuirthead), Belturbet, Belvelly, Bennettsbridge, Bettystown, Binghamstown, Birdhill, Birr, Blacklion, Blackrock (Dublin), Blackrock (Louth), Blackwater, Blanchardstown, Blarney, Blennerville, Blessington, Blue Ball, Bohaun, Boherbue, Bohola, Bonniconllon, Boolavogue, Booterstown, Borris, Borris-in-Ossory, Borrisokane, Bree, Borrisoleigh, Boston (Clare), Bouladuff, Boyerstown, Boyle, Bracknagh, Brandon (Cé Bhréannain), Bray, Breaffy, Brickens, Bridgend, Bridgetown, Brittas, Broadway, Brosna (Kerry), Brosna (Offaly), Bruckless, Bruff, Buckode, Bullaun, Bunacurry (Bun a' Churraigh), Buncrana, Bunclody, Bundoran, Bunmahon, Bunratty, Burnfoot, Burtonport (Ailt an Chorráin), Butlersbridge, Buttevant 342 List of populated places in the Republic of Ireland C Cabinteely, Cadamstown, Caherdaniel (Cathair Dónall), Cahersiveen, Cahir, Cahircon, Callan, Caltra, Campile, Camus, Cappagh, Cappamore, Caragh, Carlingford, Carlow, Carnaross, Carndonagh, Carran, Carraroe (an Cheathrú Rua), Carrickbeg, Carrickmacross, Carrickmines, Carrick-on-Shannon, Carrick-on-Suir, Carrigadrohid, Carrigaholt, Carrigaline, Carrigallen, Carriganima, Carrigans, Carrigart (Carraig Airt), Carrigeen, Carrigtwohill, Carrowteige (Ceathrú Thaidhg), Cashel, Casla, Castlebaldwin, Castlebar, Castlebellingham, Castleblakeney, Castleblayney, Castlebridge, Castlecomer, Castleconnell, Castlecove, Castledermot, Castlefin, Castlegregory, Castlehill, Castleiney, Castleisland, Castleknock, Castlelyons, Castlemartyr, Castlemaine, Castlepollard, Castleplunket, Castlerea, Castleshane (Monaghan), Castletown (Laois), Castletownbere, Castletownroche, Castletownshend, Castletown-Geoghegan, Castletroy, Castletown-Kinneigh, Causeway, Cavan, Celbridge, Chapelizod, Charlestown, Charleville (Ráth Luirc), Cherrywood, Church Hill, Churchtown (Cork), Churchtown (Dublin), Cill Ghallagáin, Claddaghduff, Clane, Clara, Clarecastle, Clareen, Claregalway (Baile Chláir), Claremorris, Clarina Village, Clashmore, Cleariestown, Cleggan, Clifden, Clogh, Clohamon, Cloghan (Donegal), Cloghan (Offaly), Cloghane (an Clochán), Clogheen, Clogherhead, Cloghroe, Clonaghadoo, Clonbur (an Fhairche), Clondrohid, Clonfert, Clonlara, Clonliffe, Clonmacnoise, Clonmany, Clonmel, Clonmellon, Clonmore (Carlow), Clonmore (Tipperary), Clonony, Clonroche, Clonsilla, Clonskeagh, Clontarf, Clontibret, Cloonacool, Cloondara, Cloone, Cloonfad, Cloonfush, Cloughduv, Cloughjordan, Clounanaha, Cloyne, Coachford, Cobh, Coill Dubh, Colehill, Collinstown, Collon, Cong, Conna, Convoy, Coolderry, Coolaney, Coolboy, Coolafancy, Coolea (Cúil Aodha), Coolgreany, Coolkenno, Coolmine, Coolock, Cooraclare, Cootehill, Corduff, Cork, Cornamona (Corr na Móna), Cornafulla, Corofin (Clare), Corofin (Galway), Corroy, Courtmacsherry, Courtown, Craanford, Cratloe, Craughwell, Crecora, Cree, Cregganbaun, Creggs, Crettyard, Croagh, Croghan, Crolly (Croithlí), Crookhaven, Crookstown (Cork), Crookstown (Kildare), Croom, Cross, Crossabeg, Crossbarry, Crossdoney, Crosshaven, Crossmolina, Crumlin, Cullen (Cork), Cullen (Tipperary), Cullenstown, Cullohill, Curracloe, Currans, Curraghboy, Currow, Cushina, Cushinstown Culdaff, Clondalkin D Daingean, Dalkey, Daly's Cross, Deansgrange, Delphi, Delvin, Derrew, Derrinturn, Derrybeg (Doirí Beaga), Derrynane, Dingle (an Daingean), Dolla, Dollymount, Dolphin's Barn, Donabate, Donaghmede, Donaghmore, Donegal, Doneraile, Donnybrook, Doochary (an Dúchoraidh), Dooega (Dumha Éige), Doohoma, Doolin, Doon (Limerick), Doon (Offaly), Doonbeg, Dooniver (Dún Ibhir), Douglas, Downings (Na Dúnaibh), Dowra, Drimoleague, Dripsey, Drinagh, Drogheda, Dromahair, Dromahane, Donnycarney, Dromcolliher, Dromiskin, Dromod, Dromore West, Drum, Drumcliff, Drumcondra, Drumkeeran, Drumlish, Drummin, Drumraney, Drumshanbo, Drumsna, Duagh, Dualla, Dublin, Duhallow, Duleek, Dunboyne, Duncannon, Duncormick, Dundalk, Dunderrow, Dundrum (Dublin), Dundrum (Tipperary), Dunfanaghy, Dungarvan, Dungloe (an Clochán Liath), Dungourney, Dunkineely, Dún Laoghaire, Dunlavin, Dunleer, Dunmanway, Dunmore, Dunmore East, Dunquin (Dún Chaoin), Dunshaughlin, Durrow (Laois), Durrow (Offaly), Durrus, Dysart 343 List of populated places in the Republic of Ireland E Eadestown, Easky, East Wall, Edenderry, Edgeworthstown, Elphin, Emly, Emo, Emyvale, Enfield, Ennis, Enniscrone, Enniscorthy, Enniskean, Enniskerry, Ennistymon, Errew, Errill, Eyeries, Eyrecourt F Fahamore, Fahan, Falcarragh (an Fál Carrach), Fanore, Farranfore, Feakle, Fenagh (Leitrim), Fennagh (Carlow), Feohanagh (an Fheothanach), Ferbane, Fenit, Fermoy, Ferns, Fethard, Fethard-on-Sea, Fiddown, Finglas, Finnea, Fintown (Baile na Finne), Finuge, Firhouse, Flagmount, Fossa, Foulkesmill, Fountainstown, Foxford, Foxrock, Foynes, Frenchpark, Freshford, Frosses, Furbo G Galbally, Galmoy, Galway, Garrafrauns, Garrienderk, Garristown, Garryspillane, Geesala, Geevagh, Glandore, Glangevlin, Glanmire, Glanworth, Glasheen, Glaslough, Glasnevin, Glassan, Glasthule, Glen, Glenamaddy, Glenageary, Glenamoy, Glenbrook, Glencolmcille (Gleann Cholm Cille), Glencullen, Glencullen (Mayo), Glenealy, Glenfarne, Glengad, Glengarriff, Glenhest, Glenties, Glin, Glinsk, Glounthaune, Gneeveguilla, Goatstown, Golden, Goleen, Goresbridge, Gorey, Gormanston, Gort, Gortahork (Gort a' Choirce), Gorteen, Gortnahoe, Gougane Barra, Goulane, Gowran, Graiguenamanagh, Granard, Grange (Sligo), Grange (Waterford), Grangecon, Greenan, Greencastle, Greenore, Greystones, Gweedore (Gaoth Dobhair) H Hacketstown, Halfway, Harold's Cross, Headford, Herbertstown, Hollyford, Hollyfort, Hollymount, Hollywood, Holycross, Horse and Jockey, Hospital, Howth, Hugginstown, Hurlers Cross I Inagh, Inch (Clare), Inch (Wexford), Enniscrone, Inistioge, Innishannon, Inniskeen, Inver, Inverin (Indreabhán), Irishtown (Dublin), Irishtown (Mayo), Islandeady, Ivarstown J Jamestown, Jenkinstown (Kilkenny), Jenkinstown (Louth), Johnstown (Kildare), Johnstown (Kilkenny), Johnstown (Navan), Johnstown Bridge, Julianstown K Kanturk, Keadue, Kealkill, Keel, Keenagh, Kells, Kenmare, Kerrykeel, Keshcarrigan, Kilbarrack, Kilbaha, Kilbeggan, Kilbeheny, Kilberry, Kilbricken, Kilbrin, Kilbrittain, Kilcar (Cill Charthaigh), Kilcock, Kilcogy, Kilcolgan, Kilconly, Kilcoole, Kilconnell, Kilcormac, Kilcorney, Kilcrohane, Kilcullen, Kildangan, Kildare, Kildavin, Kildimo, Kildorrery, Kildysart, Kilfenora, Kilfinane, Kilflynn, Kilgarvan, Kilglass, Kilkea, Kilkee, Kilkelly, Kilkenny, Kilkerrin, Kilkieran (Cill Chiaráin), Kill (Kildare), Killadysert, Killala, Killaloe, Killanne, Killarga, Killarney, Killashee, Killavullen, Killeigh, Killenaule, Killeshandra, Killeshin, Killimordaly, Killinaspick, Killiney, Killinierin, Killorglin, Killucan, Killurin, Killybegs, Kilmacanogue, Kilmacduagh, Kilmacow, Kilmacthomas, Kilmaine, Kilmaley, Kilmallock, Kilmead, Kilmeaden, Kilmeage, Kilmichael, Kilmihil, Kilmore, Kilmore Quay, Kilmoyley, Kilmuckridge, Kilnaboy, Kilnaleck, Kilnamartyra (Cill na Martra), Kilpedder, Kilquade, Kilronan (Cill Rónáin), Kilrush, Kilshanchoe, Kilshanny, Kilskeer, Kiltale, Kiltartan, Kiltealy, Kilteel, Kilteely, Kiltegan, Kilternan, Kiltimagh, Kiltormer, Kiltyclogher, Kilumney, Kilworth, Kincasslagh (Cionn Caslach), Kingscourt, Kinlough, Kinnegad, Kinnitty, Kinsale, Kinvara, Knightstown, Knock, Knockbridge, Knockaderry, 344 List of populated places in the Republic of Ireland Knocknahur, Knockananna, Knockanore, Knockcroghery, Knocklyon, Knocknagoshel, Knocknagree, Knockraha, Knocktopher L Labasheeda, Lackagh, Lacken, Laghy, Lahardane, Lahinch, Lanesborough, Laragh (Cavan), Laragh (Wicklow), Largydonnell, Lattin, Lawrencetown, Laytown, Leabgarrow, Leap, Lecanvey, Lecarrow, Leenaun, Leighlinbridge, Leitrim, Leixlip, Lemybrien, Letterfrack, Letterkenny, Lettermacaward (Leitir Mhic a' Bhaird), Lettermore (Leitir Móir), Lettermullen (Leitir Mealláin), Lifford, Limerick, Liscannor, Liscarroll, Lisdoonvarna, Lismire, Lismore, Lispole (Lios Póil), Lisronagh, Lisryan, Lisselton, Lissycasey, Listowel, Littleton, Lixnaw, Lombardstown, Longford, Longwood, Lorrha, Loughanure (Loch an Iúir), Loughglinn, Loughlinstown, Loughmore, Loughrea, Loughshinny, Louisburgh, Louth, Lucan, Lullymore, Lusk, Lyre M Maam Cross, Macroom, Magheraroarty (Machaire Rabhartaigh), Mahon Bridge, Mahoonagh, Malahide, Malin, Mallow, Manorhamilton, Marlfield, Maum, Mayfield, Maynooth, Mayo, Meelick (Clare), Meelick (Mayo), Meelin, Menlo, Midleton, Milestone, Milford (Cork), Milford (Donegal), Millstreet, Milltown (Dublin), Milltown (Galway), Milltown (Kerry), Milltown (Kildare), Milltownpass, Miltown Malbay, Minane Bridge, Mitchelstown, Moate, Mohill, Monageer, Monaghan, Monamolin, Monaseed, Monasteraden, Monasterevin, Moneenroe, Moneygall, Monkstown (Cork), Monkstown (Dublin), Montenotte, Montpelier, Mooncoin, Moone, Mothel, Mountbellew, Mountcharles, Mountcollins, Mountmellick, Mountnugent, Mountrath, Mountshannon, Mount Temple, Moville, Moycullen (Maigh Cuilinn), Moydow, Moygownagh, Moylough, Moynalty, Moyvane, Moyvoughly, Muff, Muine Bheag, Mulhuddart, Mulhussey, Mullagh (Cavan), Mullagh (Clare), Mullaghmore, Mullinahone, Mullinavat, Mullingar, Mulranny, Multyfarnham, Murrooghtoohy, Murrintown, Murrisk, Myrtleville, Myshall N Naas, Nad, Narin, Narraghmore, Naul, Navan, Neale, Nenagh, Newbawn, New Birmingham, Newbliss, Newbridge (Galway), Newbridge (Kildare), Newcastle (Dublin), Newcastle (Wicklow), Newcastle West, Newcestown, New Inn (Galway), New Inn (Laois), New Inn (Tipperary), Newmarket, Newmarket-on-Fergus, Newport, New Ross, Newtown (Laois), Newtown (Tipperary), Newtowncashel, Newtowncunningham, Newtownforbes, Newtowngore, Newtownmountkennedy, Ninemilehouse, Nobber, Nohoval, North Wall, Nurney (Carlow), Nurney (Kildare) O O'Briensbridge, O'Callaghans Mills, Ogonnelloe, Oilgate, Old Leighlin, Oldcastle, Oldtown (Dublin), Old Town (Roscommon), Omeath, Ongar, Oola, Oranmore, Oughterard, Oulart, Ovens, Owenbeg, Oxmantown, Oysterhaven P Palatine, Pallasgreen, Pallaskenry, Palmerstown, Parteen, Partry, Passage East, Passage West, Patrickswell, Paulstown, Pettigo, Piltown, Pollagh, Pontoon, Portarlington, Portlaoise, Portlaw, Portmagee, Portmarnock, Portnablagh, Portrane, Portroe, Portumna, Poulaphouca, Poulpeasty, Prosperous, Puckane 345 List of populated places in the Republic of Ireland Q Quigley's Point, Quilty, Quin R Rahara, Raharney, Raheen (Laois), Raheen (Limerick), Raheen (Wexford), Raheny, Rakestreet, Ramelton, Ranelagh, Rannafast (Rann na Feirste), Raphoe, Rathangan (Kildare), Rathangan (Wexford), Rathcabbin, Rathcarran (Ráth Cairn), Rathconrath, Rathcoole, Rathcormac, Rathdowney, Rathfarnham, Rathgar, Rathgormack, Rathkeale, Rathmines, Rathmolyon, Rathmore, Rathmullan, Rathnew, Rathnure, Rathowen, Rathvilly, Ratoath, Rearcross, Recess, Redcross, Redhouse, Redhills (Cavan), Rerrin, Renmore, Ring (an Rinn), Ringaskiddy, Ringsend, Riverchapel, Riverstick, Riverstown (Sligo), Riverstown (Tipperary/Offaly), Robertstown, Rochfortbridge, Rockchapel, Rockcorry, Rockmills, Rolestown, Roosky, Rosbercon, Roscommon, Roscrea, Rosegreen, Rosemount, Rosenallis, Roslevan, Rosmuc, Rossaveel (Ros a' Mhíl), Rosscarbery, Rosses Point, Rossinver, Rosslare Harbour, Rosslare Strand, Rossnowlagh, Rossport (Ros Dumhach), Roundstone, Roundwood, Royal Oak, Ruan, Rosses Point, Rush, Rushbrooke, Rylane S Saggart, Salia (Sáile), Sallins, Sallybrook, Sallynoggin, Salthill, Saltmills, Sandpit, Sandycove, Sandyford, Sandymount, Santry, Scarnagh, Scariff, Scraggane, Schull, Scotshouse, Scotstown, Screeb, Shammer, Shanagarry, Shanahoe, Shanagolden, Shanbally, Shanballymore, Shannonbridge, Shannon Harbour, Shannon, Shercock, Sheriff Street, Shinrone, Shrule, Silvermines, Sixmilebridge, Skehana, Skerries, Skibbereen, Skreen, Skryne, Slane, Sligo, Smithborough, Sneem, Sooey, Spanish Point, Spiddal (an Spidéal), Spink, St Johnston, St Mullin's, Stamullen, Staplestown, Stepaside, Stillorgan, Stonetown, Stoneybatter, Stradbally (Laois), Strade, Stradone, Straffan, Stranorlar, Stratford-on-Slaney, Streamstown, Strokestown, Summerhill, Suncroft, Sutton, Swanlinbar, Swinford, Swords T Tacumshane, Taghmaconnell, Taghmon, Taghshinny, Tallaght, Tallow, Tang, Tarbert, Tarmonbarry, Teelin (Teileann), Templeglantine, Templemore, Templeogue, Templenoe, Terenure, Termon, Termonfeckin, Terryglass, The Harrow, The Rower, The Swan, Thomastown, Thurles, Ticknock, Timahoe, Timoleague, Timolin, Tinahely, Tinryland, Tinure, Tipperary, Togher, Cork, Toomevara, Touraneena, Toorlestraun, Toormakeady (Tuar Mhic Éadaigh), Tower, Tragumna, Tralee, Tramore, Trim, Tuam, Tuamgraney, Tournafulla, Tubber, Tubberclare, Tubbercurry, Tulla, Tullaghan, Tullahought, Tullamore, Tullow, Tullyallen, Tulrahan, Tulsk, Turloughmore, Two-Mile Borris, Tydavnet, Tynagh, Tyrrellspass, Tunnagh U Union Hall, Upperchurch, Upton, Urlingford, Urris V Valleymount, Ventry (Ceann Trá), Vicarstown, Villierstown, Virginia W Walkinstown, Walsh Island, Watch House Village, Waterford, Watergrasshill, Waterville, Wellingtonbridge, Westport, Wexford, Whitechurch, Whitegate (Clare), Whitegate (Cork), Wicklow, Williamstown, Windgap, Windy Arbour, Woodenbridge, Woodford, Woodlawn 346 List of populated places in the Republic of Ireland 347 Y Yellow Furze, Youghal Ballyshannon Ballyshannon Béal Átha Seanaidh — Town — Seal Ballyshannon Location in Ireland Coordinates: 54°30′05″N 8°11′24″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Government • Dáil Éireann Donegal South • EU Parliament North–West Population (2006) • Urban 2004 • Rural 2686 Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC-1) Area code(s) +353 71 98 5 Irish Grid Reference G876614 [1] Website [www.ballyshannon.ie www.ballyshannon.ie] Ballyshannon 348 Historical population Year Pop. ±% 1821 3831 — 1831 3775 −1.5% 1841 3513 −6.9% 1851 3698 +5.3% 1861 3197 −13.5% 1871 2958 −7.5% 1881 2840 −4.0% 1891 2471 −13.0% 1901 2359 −4.5% 1911 2170 −8.0% 1926 2112 −2.7% 1936 2223 +5.3% 1946 2514 +13.1% 1951 2813 +11.9% 1956 2434 −13.5% 1961 2322 −4.6% 1966 2233 −3.8% 1971 2325 +4.1% 1981 3066 +31.9% 1986 3015 −1.7% 1991 2838 −5.9% 1996 2775 −2.2% 2002 2715 −2.2% 2006 2686 −1.1% [2][3][4][5][6] Ballyshannon (Irish: Béal Átha Seanaidh, meaning "The Mouth of Seannachs ford") is a town in County Donegal, Ireland. It is located at the southern end of the county where the N3 and N15 cross the River Erne, and claims to be the oldest town in Ireland.[7][8][9][10] Ballyshannon 349 Location Ballyshannon, which means "The Mouth of Seannach's Ford", after a fifth century warrior, Seannach, who was slain there, lies at the mouth of the river Erne. Just west of the town, the Erne widens and its waters meander over a long sandy estuary. The northern bank of the river rises steeply away from the riverbank, while the southern bank is flat with a small cliff that runs parallel to the river. From its idyllic setting, the town looks out over the estuary and has panoramic views of mountains, lakes and forests. Ballyshannon town centre. History Archaeological sites dating as far back as the Neolithic period (4000 BC – 2500 BC) have been excavated in Ballyshannon and surrounding areas, representing settlement and ritual activity from early periods of human settlement. Finds have ranged from fulachta fiadh (burnt mounds) dating from the Bronze Age (2500–500 BC), to a possible brushwood trackway thought to date to an earlier Neolithic period, to the recent discovery of a previously unknown medieval church and cemetery containing hundreds of skeletons thought to date from between 1100 and 1400. This site yielded numerous artifacts including silver long cross pennies and halfpennies dating from the reign of Henry III (1251–1276) and Edward I (c.1280–1302). Other finds included bone beads, shroud pins, and pieces of quartz which were found placed in the hands of many of the skeletons. Numerous other sites from various periods are thought to exist, including a neolithic tomb, and the grave of King Red Hugh (Aedh Rua) upon which St. Anne's church (Church of Ireland) was supposedly built, occupying the highest of the town's vantage points—Mullgoose. Nothing remains to mark either tomb, the last vestige of the mound on Mullaghnashee having been obliterated in 1798 when a fort was constructed on the hill-top. The 18th century churchyard and the paupers' burial ground were both referred to as Sidh Aedh Ruaidh, the Fairy Mound of Red Hugh. The 'sheeman' (Anglicisation of the Irish sidh) in Mullgoose means 'fairies'. Popular belief assigned the interior of hills to fairies' dwelling places and local tradition has handed down accounts of the exploits of the fairy folk, especially among the Finner sand-hills and in the Wardtown district of Ballyshannon. Ballyshannon 351 During the Second World War the British and Irish governments quietly reached an agreement to create an air corridor between nearby Belleek and Ballyshannon, the "Donegal Corridor", which was used by British Royal Air Force flights from Northern Ireland into the Atlantic Ocean[19] . This was used by the aircraft which located the German battleship Bismarck.[20] Local attractions • The Rory Gallagher International Tribute Festival [21] takes place in Ballyshannon on June Bank Holiday weekend. 2012 Rory Gallagher International Tribute Festival takes place between Thursday 31 May & Sunday 3 June 2012. • Ballyshannon Folk Festival [22] takes place every year on the August bank holiday weekend. Transport and communications Bus Eireann [1] offers routes to major cities in the Republic of Ireland including Cavan and Dublin. Ulsterbus [23] offers services to major cities in Northern Ireland including Belfast and Derry. Feda ODonnell [24] offers routes to and from Gweedore to the west of Ireland, including Sligo and Galway, via Ballyshannon. The nearest railway to Ballyshannon is Sligo station which is served by trains to Dublin Connolly and is operated by Iarnród Éireann, Official site - Timetables, bookings and operations [6] Commercial broadband is available in Ballyshannon, installed by the Donegal County Council and provided by all major broadband providers. People Birthplace of: • Rory Gallagher, guitarist and singer • William Allingham, poet • Charlie McGettigan, singer and winner of the Eurovision • Gallagher clan, originated in the barony of Tirhugh to the north of Ballyshannon • William Conolly, politician International relations Twin towns — Sister cities Ballyshannon is twinned with: • Grenay, France • Séné, France Sport • Local Gaelic Athletic Association club is Aodh Ruadh. • The local rugby club is Ballyshannon R.F.C. • The local soccer club is Erne Wanderers. A statue of Ballyshannon native, rock singer, guitar shagger Rory Gallagher. Ballyshannon Schools • • • • • Kilbarron (St. Anne's) National School. The Holy Family National School (formerly known as St. Joseph's Primary School). St. Catherine's Primary School (known in Irish as Scoil Naomh Chaitríona). Gaelscoil Eirne, an Irish-medium national school Coláiste Cholmcille Secondary School. Adult education • Ballyshannon VTOS Hogwarts school of witchcraft and wizardry References [1] [2] [3] [4] http:/ / getamap. ordnancesurvey. co. uk/ getamap/ frames. htm?mapAction=gaz& gazName=g& gazString=G876614 Census for post 1821 figures. (http:/ / www. cso. ie/ census) http:/ / www. histpop. org http:/ / www. nisranew. nisra. gov. uk/ census [5] Lee, JJ (1981). "On the accuracy of the Pre-famine Irish censuses". In Goldstrom, J. M.; Clarkson, L. A.. Irish Population, Economy, and Society: Essays in Honour of the Late K. H. Connell. Oxford, England: Clarendon Press. [6] Mokyr, Joel; O Grada, Cormac (November 1984). "New Developments in Irish Population History, 1700-1850" (http:/ / www3. interscience. wiley. com/ journal/ 120035880/ abstract). The Economic History Review 37 (4): 473–488. doi:10.1111/j.1468-0289.1984.tb00344.x. [7] http:/ / www. accommodation. ie/ donegal/ ballyshannon. htm [8] http:/ / www. discoverireland. com/ us/ ireland-places-to-go/ placefinder/ b/ ballyshannon-donegal/ [9] http:/ / www. creevyexperience. com/ about-creevy-experience-accommodation-donegal. html [10] http:/ / donegaldirect. com/ ws_business_details. aspx?BusinessID=1920& Region=Ballyshannon& BusinessNm=Ballyshannon+ Cycle+ Hub [11] http:/ / books. google. ie/ books?id=ujpIAAAAMAAJ [12] Hyde, Montgomery The Strange Death of Lord Castlereagh William Heinemann 1959 pp.161-2 [13] Hyde, p.162 [14] Hajducki, S. Maxwell (1974). A Railway Atlas of Ireland. Newton Abbott: David & Charles. map 6. ISBN 0-7153-5167-2. [15] Hajducki, op. cit., page xiii [16] Hajducki, op. cit., map 39 [17] McCutcheon, Alan (1970). Ireland. Railway History in Pictures. 2. Newton Abbott: David & Charles. pp. 153, 207. ISBN 0-7153-4998-8. [18] McCutcheon, 1970, pages 155, 209 [19] Guidera, Anita (April 19, 2007). "Plaques mark secret wartime air corridor in Donegal" (http:/ / www. independent. ie/ national-news/ plaques-mark-secret-wartime-air-corridor-in-donegal-44249. html). Irish Independent. . Retrieved 2008-09-04. [20] Kennedy, Ludovic (1975). Pursuit: The Sinking of the Bismarck. London: Book Club Associates. p. 137. ISBN 0-00-634014-8. [21] http:/ / www. goingtomyhometown. com [22] http:/ / www. ballyshannonfolkfestival. com [23] http:/ / www. ulsterbus. co. uk [24] http:/ / www. fedaodonnell. com/ 352 Ballyshannon External links • Ballyshannon Website (http://web.archive.org/web/20091027070927/http://www.geocities.com/ johngall_99) • Ballyshannon Council Website (http://www.ballyshannon.ie) • Ballyshannon Online (http://www.BallyshannonOnline.com) • Ballyshannon Folk & Traditional Festival (http://www.ballyshannonfolkfestival.com) • The Rory Gallagher International Tribute Festival (http://www.goingtomyhometown.com) • Aodh Ruadh GAA Club Website (http://www.aodhruadh.org) • Vocational Training Opportunites Scheme (VTOS) (http://www.donegalvec.ie/vtos) 353 Buncrana 354 Buncrana Buncrana Bun Cranncha — Town — Buncrana from the south Coat of arms Motto: Aoibhinn Linn Áille na hÁite Seo (Irish) "sweet to us is the beauty of this place" Buncrana Location in Ireland Coordinates: 55°08′11″N 7°27′22″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County Donegal Government • Type Town Council • Mayor of Buncrana James Gill • Dáil Éireann Donegal North–East • European Parliament North–West Elevation 62 m (unknown operator: u'strong' ft) Buncrana 355 Population (2011) • Urban 3452 • Rural 3747 Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC-1) Irish Grid Reference C346320 Website www.visitbuncrana.com [1] [2] Historical population Year 1821 1831 Pop. 198 ±% — 1059 +434.8% 1841 961 −9.3% 1851 797 −17.1% 1861 686 −13.9% 1871 755 +10.1% 1881 764 +1.2% 1891 735 −3.8% 1901 1316 +79.0% 1911 1848 +40.4% 1926 2309 +24.9% 1936 2295 −0.6% 1946 2729 +18.9% 1951 3039 +11.4% 1956 3064 +0.8% 1961 3165 +3.3% 1966 3115 −1.6% 1971 3334 +7.0% 1981 3938 +18.1% 1986 4131 +4.9% 1991 4388 +6.2% 1996 4805 +9.5% 2002 5271 +9.7% 2006 5911 +12.1% 2011 7199 +21.8% [3] Buncrana ( /ˈbʌn.krænə/; Irish: Bun Cranncha, meaning "foot of the (River) Crana") is a town in north County Donegal, Ireland. It is beside Lough Swilly on the Inishowen peninsula, 23 kilometres (unknown operator: u'strong' mi) northwest of Derry and 43 kilometres (unknown operator: u'strong' mi) north of Letterkenny.[4] In Buncrana the 2011 census, the population was 7,199[5] making it the second most populous town in County Donegal, after Letterkenny, and the largest in Inishowen. Buncrana is the historic home of the O'Doherty clan and originally developed around the defensive tower known as O’Doherty’s Keep at the mouth of the River Crana. The town moved to its present location just south of the River Crana when George Vaughan built the main street in 1718. The town was a major centre for the textile industry in County Donegal from the 19th century until the mid-2000s. History O'Doherty's Keep On the northern bank of the River Crana as it enters Lough Swilly sits the three-story O’Doherty’s Keep, which is the only surviving part of an original 14th century Norman castle. The first two levels of the keep were built after 1333.[6][7] In 1601 the O'Doherty's Keep was described as being a small, two story castle, inhabited by Conor McGarret O'Doherty. In 1602 the third level was added and it was upgraded by Hugh Boy O'Doherty as an intended base for Spanish military aid that hoped to land at Inch.[8] The keep was burned by the English in 1608 in reprisal for the rebellion of Cahir O'Doherty who sacked and razed the city of Derry. After Cahir O'Doherty was killed and his land seized, the keep was granted to Sir Arthur Chichester, who then leased it to Englishman Henry Vaughan, were it was repaired and lived in by the Vaughan family until 1718.[9] In 1718, Buncrana Castle was built by George Vaughan, it was one of the first big manor houses built in Inishowen, and stone was taken from the bawn, or defensive wall, surrounding O'Doherty's Keep to build it. It was erected on the original site of Buncrana, which had grown up in the shadow of the keep. Vaughan moved the town to its present location, where he founded the current main street and built the Castle Bridge (a six-arched stone single lane bridge) across the River Crana leading to his Castle.[10] During the 1798 Rebellion, Theobald Wolfe Tone was held in Buncrana Castle when he was captured after the British/French naval battle off the coast of Donegal, before being taken to Derry and then subsequently to Dublin. In 1812, May 18th, Isaac Todd bought the entire town of Buncrana, also the townlands of Tullydish, Adaravan and Ballymacarry, at the Court of Chancery on behalf of the trustees of the Marquess of Donegall. His nephews inherited the castles, and they later became known as the Thornton-Todds. The castle remains as a private home today. In the forecourt there is a memorial rock in honour of Sir Cahir O'Doherty, and a plaque dedicated to Wolfe Tone.[11] When John Newton and his shipmates on The Greyhound found a haven in Lough Swilly on 8 April 1748 after a devastating Atlantic storm, he saw his survival as divine intervention, the answer to prayer. The refuge of the Swilly and Buncrana area laid a spiritual foundation for a reformed later life. In 1764 he became a Church of England clergyman and subsequently, as curate at Olney in Buckinghamshire, an anti-slavery activist and renowned hymnist famous for writing “Amazing Grace”.[12] One of the oldest remaining inhabited residences in Buncrana is a Georgian property called Westbrook House [13], situated at the entrance to Swan Park just north of the town center of Buncrana. The house was built in 1807 by Judge Wilson, who also built the single-arch stone bridge (referred to as Wilson's Bridge) leading to the house and the entrance to Swan Park. 356 Buncrana 20th Century In October 1905, Buncrana was the first town in County Donegal to receive electricity. It was generated at Swan Mill which continued to provide electricity for the town until September 1954 when Buncrana was brought under the ESB Rural Electrification Scheme.[10] On 30 July 1922, during the Irish Civil War, Buncrana was captured by the Free State forces from Republican forces without the loss of life. The Free State forces held the railway station, telephone and telegraph offices and all the roads entering the town. At 4:00am a sentry stopped a car on the outskirts of the town and Millbrae at the end of the Lower Main Street with on discovering it contained the Republican commander, with five Swan Mill in the background armed volunteers, arrested them. At around 7:00am the Republican forces' position was surrounded and were given fifteen minutes to surrender. They complied, were arrested and their weapons and ammunition seized. Later that day, 100 Free State troops commandeered a train at Buncrana station and proceeded to take Clonmany, Carndonagh and other locations on the peninsula.[14] Buncrana was the object of public attention in 1972, when after Operation Motorman it became the place of refuge for many Provisional Irish Republican Army members from Derry. In 1991, a local Sinn Féin councillor, Eddie Fullerton, was murdered by loyalists from Northern Ireland.[15] Politics Local Buncrana Town Council is the Local Authority for the town and provides an extensive range of services in the area. These services range from planning control, to the provision of social housing, to the upkeep and improvement of roads, maintenance of parks, beaches and public open spaces. According to the Council's website, it "plays a proactive role in the development of the town.". In partnership with Donegal County Council, the Council assists in assuring economic growth in the town. Buncrana Town Buncrana Credit Union on Cockhill Road Council is made up of 9 elected members. Members are elected according to the system of proportional representation, usually for a period of five years. The Mayor of the Council is elected from the membership at the Annual General Meeting of the Council.[16] The mayor, as of 2012, is councillor James Gill.[17] 357 Buncrana National Buncrana is part of the Donegal North–East constituency of Dáil Éireann. At the 2011 general election, three TDs (Teachtaí Dála) were elected in the constituency; Pádraig Mac Lochlainn of Sinn Féin obtained 24.5% first preference votes, Joe McHugh of Fine Gael got 19.3% first preferences and Fianna Fáil candidate Charlie McConalogue received 17.4%.[18] Geography Buncrana is located on the eastern shore of Lough Swilly in north County Donegal. The main urban area of the town is situated between the Crana River to the north and the Mill River to the south. The principle street follows a rough north-south route and is divided into the Upper and Lower Main Street by the Market Square. The Main Street has a one-way traffic system. The River Crana is crossed by three bridges: Castle Bridge (which gives vehicular access to Buncrana Castle and pedestrian access to Swan Park), Westbrook Bridge (officially, Wilson's Bridge) and Buncrana as seen from Lough Swilly Cockhill Bridge. The Mill River, south of the town, is crossed by two bridges: Victoria Bridge (known locally as the Iron Bridge) which is the main point of access to the town and the Mill Bridge which is at the end of the Mill Brae road at the south end of the town. Geology The underlying bedrock includes Fahan slate formation. The river valley of the Mill River flows over a narrow band of Culdaff limestone with a sill of metadolerite along the rivers southern embankment extending from the estuarine zone inland. Sandy gravels and clonglomerates overlie bedrock. The geology was formed during the Lower Carboniferous Period. The local soils throughout the area range from shallow to moderate depth peaty podzols and established podzolics types with a moderate percentage of loam and sandy clays. Climate Buncrana, like the rest of Ireland, has a temperate oceanic climate, or Cfb on the Köppen climate classification system, characterised by cool summers and mild winters.[19] Ireland's position in the Atlantic Ocean means that its climate is strongly influenced by the Gulf Stream, which keeps it a few degrees warmer than other locations at the same latitude. These are the average temperature and rainfall figures between 1961 and 1990 taken at the Met Éireann weather station at Malin Head, about 35 kilometres (unknown operator: u'strong' mi) northwest of Buncrana: 358 Buncrana 359 Climate data for Malin Head (1961-1990) Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Average high °C (°F) 7.6 7.5 8.7 10.3 12.7 15.0 16.2 16.6 15.3 13.0 9.8 8.4 Average low °C (°F) 3.2 2.9 3.7 5.0 7.1 9.6 11.4 11.4 10.1 8.3 5.2 4.2 Precipitation mm (inches) Year 114.2 76.6 86.5 57.5 58.9 65.0 71.8 91.6 102.1 118.7 114.7 102.9 1060.5 (4.496) (3.016) (3.406) (2.264) (2.319) (2.559) (2.827) (3.606) (4.02) (4.673) (4.516) (4.051) (41.752) [20] Source: Met Éireann Transport Buncrana railway station opened on 9 September 1864, was closed for passenger traffic on 6 September 1948, and finally closed altogether on 10 August 1953.[21] Lough Swilly Buses continues to service the area with a bus service seven days a week with around 12 buses per day going to Buncrana from Derry and vice-versa. The Londonderry and Lough Swilly Railway operates the Lough Swilly Buses.[22] The nearest railway station is operated by Northern Ireland Railways and runs from Derry / Londonderry railway station via Coleraine to Belfast Central railway station and Belfast Great Victoria Street railway station. The strategically important Belfast-Derry railway line is to be upgraded to facilitate more frequent trains and improvements to the permanent way such as track and signalling to enable faster services.[23] Buncrana is connected to the rest of the national road network via two regional roads, the R238 and a short section of the R239 from Burnfoot to Bridgend. This connects it to the N13, the national primary road that connects Letterkenny and Derry (it becomes the A2 when it crosses the border). The town is considered the gateway to Inishowen and lies on the "Inishowen 100", an approximate 100 mile route around the peninsula that passes various scenic sites. Demography Buncrana Compared 2006 Irish census Buncrana County Donegal Ireland Total population 5,911 147,264 4,239,848 Foreign born 9.8% 7.3% 10.1% White or White Irish 97.3% 97.4% 94.8% Black or Black Irish 0.2% 0.5% 1.1% Asian or Asian Irish 0.6% 0.5% 1.3% Roman Catholic 92.5% 86.4% 86.8% Church of Ireland (including Protestant) 1.4% 4.5% 3.0% No religion 3.0% 2.4% 4.4% Ability to speak Irish 29.4% 39.0% 40.8% Third level degree or higher 13.6% 12.5% 18.5% The preliminary results of the 2011 Irish census puts the population of Buncrana at 7,199. The full results of the 2011 census are expected to be published from March to December 2012. The most recent full census results available are the 2006 Irish census putting the town's population at 5,991. The town had 2,038 households, 47.6% Buncrana 360 were made up of married couples, 7.0% of cohabitation couples, 16.3% of households had lone parents and 22.7% were made up of people living alone. Around 92.5% of residents claimed to be Roman Catholic, 1.4% Church of Ireland, and about 2% were of a different Christian religion or other stated religion. The percentage of residents with no religion was 3% and 1% did not state a religion. The town is predominantly white with around 9.8% of its residents being born abroad. Of people aged 3 and over, 29.4% could speak Irish. The percentage of people over the age of 15 whose full-time education had ceased who possessed a third level degree or higher was 13.6%. There were 2,938 males and 2,973 females in Buncrana in the 2006 census. Tourism Buncrana has a relatively strong tourism industry, and it is one of the most popular holiday destinations in the northwest of Ireland. This is possibly due to its close proximity to Derry City, and also for its wide range of retail stores. It also has well-developed tourist facilities, and it serves as the main town on the Inishowen peninsula, which also helps with sustaining the tourism industry in the town.[24] Ardaravan Square in Buncrana at twilight Lisfannon beach, a Blue Flag beach, sits on the shores of Lough Swilly just south of the town, and is an important recreational beach that is popular with locals and day-trippers from Derry.[25] Sport Buncrana is home to many sports clubs, including clubs for soccer, Gaelic football and hurling, athletics and watersports. Football clubs based around Buncrana include Buncrana Hearts F.C., Cockhill Celtic F.C. and Illies Celtic. Buncrana Hearts F.C. and Cockhill Celtic are the main teams in the area, and play in the Ulster Senior League. In recent years, they have both reached the finals of the Donegal News Ulster Senior League Cup and Knockalla Caravans Cup. Gaelic Football is also a popular sport in Buncrana, and Upper Main Street looking south towards the Market Square the club caters for teams from Under-8 level right up to Senior level. They play their home games at the Scarvey,the team is vey successful underage, winning at least two inishowen titles the last few seasons and winning four county championships since 2000, reaching under-14 final for the past two seasons as well as the under 15s last season. Buncrana Golf Club has the oldest 9-hole links course in Ireland.[26] Buncrana 361 Culture Three buildings in Buncrana are recorded on the Record of Protected Structures, namely the Drift Inn (formerly Buncrana Railway Station), Buncrana Castle and Swan Mill.[27] Music Buncrana has a vibrant music scene with a host of local pubs or bars having live music most nights of the week. Roddens Bar, O Flaherty's and The Drift Inn are always good for a mix of traditional, rock and country music. The annual Buncrana Music & Arts Festival takes place every 23 July in the town.[28] The Buncrana Music and Arts festival returned to the town in 2010, after a five year absence. The festival included successful performances from The Coronas, The Undertones and Altan. It will return in 2011, and will take place during the month of July. Buncrana from Castle bridge showing the two industrial chimneys of the defunct Fruit of the Loom dye house Buncrana is also famous for producing traditional music artists. Dinny McLaughlin, Paul McClure, Ciaran Tourish and Tom Byrne are all natives of the town, and have performed to critical acclaim all over the country. Media The two main local newspapers that serve the Inishowen area, the Inish Times and the Inishowen Independent, have their offices in Buncrana. Local issues in the town and peninsula are also covered in the Derry Journal. The local radio station is Highland Radio and it is based in Letterkenny. Education Buncrana is served by two secondary schools: Crana College, a vocational school managed by the Vocational Educational Committee (VEC) and Scoil Mhuire, a voluntary secondary school under the trusteeship of CEIST (Catholic Education Irish Schools Trust). Crana College was set up in 1925, while Scoil Mhuire developed in 1933.[29] As of September 2011, Crana College had 540[30] registered students, while Scoil Mhuire had around 700.[31] The town's main primary schools are Scoil Íosagáin and Cockhill National School. Other smaller primary schools include St Mura's National School and Gaelscoil Bhun Chrannacha.[32] Buncrana Community Library opened in 2000 in a refurbished Presbyterian church. It won the Public Library Buildings Awards 2001 for the best small library in the converted, extended or refurbished category.[33] Buncrana 362 People • Daniel Devlin, (1814 – 22 February 1867), prosperous businessman and City Chamberlain of New York City • Danny Hutton, (born 10 September 1942), singer with Three Dog Night and head of Hanna-Barbera Records from 1965 – 1966 • Eddie Fullerton, (1935 – 25 May 1991), Sinn Féin councillor assassinated by the UDA • Frank McGuinness, (born 29 July 1953), playwright and poet whose work includes Observe the Sons of Ulster Marching Towards the Somme • John Doherty, (1798 – 1854), radical trade unionist • Michael McCorkell, (3 May 1925 – 13 November 2006), Lord Lieutenant of County Londonderry • Patrick Stone, (14 March 1854 – 23 December 1926), member of the Western Australian Legislative Assembly • Ray McAnally, (30 March 1926 – 15 June 1989), actor whose filmography includes The Mission, My Left Foot, and A Very British Coup International relations Twin towns — Sister cities Buncrana is twinned with two towns. It twinned with Campbellsville, Kentucky as both towns had a large Fruit of the Loom plant. The plant was a large source of employment in Buncrana before it moved its operations overseas to Morocco.[34] Buncrana is twinned with the following towns: Castle Bridge crossing the River Crana as it empties into Lough Swilly Town Campbellsville Geographical location Kentucky Fréhel/Plévenon Brittany Nation USA France Since 1991 2007 References [1] http:/ / getamap. ordnancesurvey. co. uk/ getamap/ frames. htm?mapAction=gaz& gazName=g& gazString=C346320 [2] http:/ / www. visitbuncrana. com/ [3] http:/ / www. cso. ie/ census and www.histpop.org. Post 1961 figures include environs of Buncrana. For a discussion on the accuracy of pre-famine census returns see JJ Lee “On the accuracy of the pre-famine Irish censuses” in Irish Population, Economy and Society edited by JM Goldstrom and LA Clarkson (1981) p54, and also “New Developments in Irish Population History, 1700-1850” by Joel Mokyr and Cormac Ó Gráda in The Economic History Review, New Series, Vol. 37, No. 4 (Nov., 1984), pp. 473-488. [4] "Town information: location" (http:/ / www. buncrana. com/ townInformation. aspx). buncrana.com. . Retrieved 15 October 2011. [5] "Preliminary results of 2011 census" (http:/ / www. cso. ie/ census/ Table8. htm). Central Statistics Office. . Retrieved 13 October 2011. [6] Archer, Lucy; Edwin Smith (1999). Architecture in Britain and Ireland, 600-1500. Harvill Press. ISBN 978-1-86046-701-1. [7] Harbison, Peter (1975). Guide to the national monuments in the Republic of Ireland. Gill & Macmillan. [8] Harbison, Peter (1975). Guide to the national monuments in the Republic of Ireland. Gill & Macmillan. [9] Lewis, Samuel; Edwin Smith (1837). A Topological Dictionary of Ireland vol.1. [10] "Chronology of local history" (http:/ / www. visitbuncrana. com/ culture. php). Buncrana Town Council (visitbuncrana.com). . Retrieved 14 October 2011. Buncrana [11] "Local history" (http:/ / www. visitbuncrana. com/ culture_heritage_centres. php). Buncrana Town Council (visitbuncrana.com). . Retrieved 14 October 2011. [12] "John Newton and Lough Swilly" (http:/ / www. amazinggrace. ie). amazinggrace.ie. . Retrieved 14 October 2011. [13] http:/ / www. westbrookhouse. ie [14] "REBELS ARE ROUTED IN DONEGAL TOWNS; Free State Troops Capture Gar- risons at Letterkenney, Buncrana and Cardonagh. ENDS BRIGANDAGE THERE Raiders Had Terrorized the District for Weeks, Frequently Holding Up Trains" (http:/ / query. nytimes. com/ mem/ archive-free/ pdf?res=9D02E1DD1539EF3ABC4953DFB1668389639EDE). The New York Times. 1 July 1922. . [15] "Eddie Fullerton murder probe" (http:/ / www. derryjournal. com/ news/ local/ fullertons_demand_answers_in_new_murder_probe_1_2143031). Derry Journal. . Retrieved 13 October 2011. [16] http:/ / www. buncrana. ie/ Article_Listings. aspx?tscategory_id=16& category_name=Welcome+ Note [17] "Buncrana Town Council elects new Mayor" (http:/ / www. donegaldemocrat. ie/ news/ local/ buncrana-town-council-elects-new-mayor-1-3952300). Donegal Democrat. 14 June 2012. . Retrieved 3 July 2012. [18] "Donegal North–East" (http:/ / www. rte. ie/ news/ election2011/ results/ donegal-north-east. html). RTÉ News. 28 February 2011. . Retrieved 5 November 2011. [19] Peel, M. C. and Finlayson, B. L. and McMahon, T. A. (2007). "Updated world map of the Köppen–Geiger climate classification" (http:/ / www. hydrol-earth-syst-sci. net/ 11/ 1633/ 2007/ hess-11-1633-2007. html). Hydrol. Earth Syst. Sci. 11: 1633–1644. ISSN 1027-5606. . (direct: Final Revised Paper (http:/ / www. hydrol-earth-syst-sci. net/ 11/ 1633/ 2007/ hess-11-1633-2007. pdf)) [20] "Malin Head, monthly and annual mean values (1961-1990)" (http:/ / www. met. ie/ climate/ malinhead. asp). Met Éireann. . Retrieved 13 October 2011. [21] "Buncrana station" (http:/ / www. railscot. co. uk/ Ireland/ Irish_railways. pdf). Railscot - Irish Railways. . Retrieved 2007-09-13. [22] "History" (http:/ / loughswillybusco. com/ ). The Londonderry & Lough Swilly Railway Company. . Retrieved 15 February 2012. [23] McDaid, Brendan (9 November 2011). "Derry rail upgrade right on track" (http:/ / www. belfasttelegraph. co. uk/ news/ local-national/ northern-ireland/ derry-rail-upgrade-right-on-track-16074933. html). The Belfast Telegraph. . Retrieved 15 February 2012. [24] http:/ / www. city-travel-guide. co. uk/ travel-guide/ buncrana-travel-guide. html [25] "Awarded sites: Lisfannon beach" (http:/ / www. blueflag. org/ Menu/ Awarded+ sites/ 2011/ Northern+ Hemisphere/ Ireland/ Border/ Lisfannon). blueflag.org. . Retrieved 14 October 2011. [26] http:/ / www. golfinginireland. ie/ clubs_courses/ donegal/ buncranna. htm [27] "Appendix 5 Environmental Report in respect of the Buncrana & Environs Development Plan 2008- 2015" (http:/ / www. ccdhunnangall. ie/ NR/ rdonlyres/ C59FE257-3A30-44CC-B1D5-FEC47ABE661A/ 0/ BuncranaEnvironsDevelopmentPlan20082014Appendix5. pdf). Buncrana and Environs Development Plan 2008 - 2014. Donegal County Council. . Retrieved 28 October 2011. [28] www.facebook.com/buncranamusicfestival [29] "Scoil Mhuire secondary school, Buncrana" (http:/ / www. ceist. ie/ ceist_schools/ view_school. cfm?loadref=75). CEIST. . Retrieved 20 October 2011. [30] "A Brief History" (http:/ / www. cranacollege. com/ ). Crana College. . Retrieved 20 October 2011. [31] "About The School" (http:/ / www. scoilmhuirebuncrana. ie/ index. php?option=com_content& view=article& id=44& Itemid=53). Scoil Mhuire, Buncrana. . Retrieved 20 December 2011. [32] "Information: Education" (http:/ / www. buncrana. com/ townInformation. aspx). Buncrana Town Council (buncrana.com). . Retrieved 21 October 2011. [33] "Buncrana Community Library" (http:/ / www. librarybuildings. ie/ library. aspx?category=1& ID=18). librarybuildings.ie. . Retrieved 8 November 2011. [34] Deegan, Gordon (25 October 2010). "Fruit of the Loom plant tranfer to Morocco" (http:/ / www. independent. ie/ business/ irish/ morocco-transfer-eats-into-fruit-of-the-loom-profits-2393174. html). Irish Independent. . Retrieved 13 October 2011. External links • VisitBuncrana.com Website (http://www.visitbuncrana.com) • Buncrana.com Website (http://www.buncrana.com) 363 Bundoran 364 Bundoran Bundoran Bun Dobhráin — Town — Bundoran seafront Motto: Fáilte, Sláinte, Beoite "welcome, health, lively" Bundoran Location in Ireland Coordinates: 54°28′31″N 8°17′02″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Dáil Éireann Donegal South–West EU Parliament North–West Elevation 12 m (unknown operator: u'strong' ft) [1] Population (2006) • Town 1964 • Urban 1706 • Environs 258 Bundoran 365 Time zone WET (UTC0) • Summer (DST) IST (UTC+1) Irish Grid Reference G8761 Dialing code 071 (within Ireland) +353 71 (International) Website [www.bundoran.ie www.bundoran.ie] [2] Bundoran (Irish: Bun Dobhráin) is a town in County Donegal, Ireland. The town is located on the N15 road near Ballyshannon, 3 hours drive from Dublin. The town is well known as a popular seaside resort, and is a popular surfing area.[3] History Origins Bundoran, or as it is known in Irish Bun Dobhráin (which means the foot of the little water), was, up until over a century ago, two separate villages. Bundoran was the village west of the bridge over the River Bradoge. This area is now called the West End. East of the bridge, about 2 kilometres (unknown operator: u'strong' miles) away, was the village of Single Street. In between these two separate communities was the townland of Drumacrin. The area of Drumcacrin is now part of what is today's town centre. Single Street was where most of the local population lived. It was only after completion of the Enniskillen and Bundoran Railway in 1868, which Tullan Strand opened a terminus that it called Bundoran,[4] that the two distinct communities developed and merged to what are today called Bundoran. The first official record of Bundoran is in a deposition by Hugh Gaskein on May 16, 1653. He was a witness to events during the 1641 Rebellion when he was an apprentice butcher in Sligo.[5] William Cole, Viscount Enniskillen, built Bundoran Lodge, his summer home, in 1777. This building still stands on Bayview Avenue and is now called Homefield House. The Viscount seems to have started a trend amongst his contemporaries as more of them discovered Bundoran and visited it to enjoy the seaside and what were believed to be its health benefits. The Public Rights of Way The rights of the people to have access to the seashore were blocked by a local landlord but the locals found a champion in the parish priest Canon Kelaghan who fought through the courts in 1870 to ensure that the pathways and roads to the beach remained open to the public. Canon Kelaghan also had the present Catholic church built in 1859.[6] The Railway The opening of the Enniskillen and Bundoran Railway (E&BR) in 1868 connected Bundoran railway station with Ireland's growing railway network[4] and made the town more accessible from Belfast, Dublin and other population centres on the east and north-east coasts of Ireland. The Great Northern Railway (GNR) operated the E&BR line from 1876 and absorbed the company in 1896.[7] Bundoran In this period Bundoran emerged as one of Ireland's most popular seaside resorts. By the end of the 19th century it had become one of the main seaside resorts in Ulster. Hotels and lodging houses were opened around the town and the GNR built the Great Northern Hotel, one of Bundoran's best-known landmarks.[8] During The Emergency of 1939–45 the GNR introduced the Bundoran Express[9] that linked Dublin and Bundoran via Dundalk and Enniskillen.[10] It also carried pilgrims to and from Pettigo, which was the nearest station for Lough Derg in County Donegal.[9] There were also through trains between Bundoran and Belfast.[11] The partition of Ireland in 1922 turned the boundary with County Fermanagh into an international frontier. Henceforth Bundoran's only railway link with the rest of the Irish Free State was via Northern Ireland, and as such was subject to delays for customs inspections. The Rougey Cliff Walk. Government of Northern Ireland closed much of the GNR network on its side of the border in 1957, including the E&BR as far as the border.[12][13] This gave the Republic no practical alternative but to allow the closure of the line between the border and Bundoran. Thereafter the nearest railheads for Bundoran were Sligo in the Republic and Omagh in Northern Ireland, until in 1965 the Ulster Transport Authority closed the line through Omagh as well.[12][14] Today, the closest railway stations to Bundoran are Mac Diarmada Station in Sligo Town and Waterside Station in Derry. Bundoran Beach For almost two centuries people have flocked to Bundoran beach on hot summer days. The tradition of bathing boxes began in Victorian times. They were primarily used by members of the gentry, who were reticent about undressing in public. The boxes were pushed, on wheels, to the water’s edge and the customer entered the box through one door, put on their bathing costume and stepped out another door to enter the sea. The box remained there until the bather was finished, dried off and fully clothed again. The bathing box was brought back to its original position on the beach, ready for the next client. Stationary bathing boxes were introduced in the early 1900s. They proved more amenable and cheaper to the public. In the 1920s, Mrs Elizabeth Travers and her brother-in-law, Bilshie Travers (uncle of the famous Bilshie Travers, former Mayor of Bundoran) hired the boxes from the local Council. For 3 old pennies a customer hired a bathing costume and for 6 old pennies they could hire “the whole package” which consisted of a bathing cap, costume and towel. The bathing costume was washed in a bucket and hung up to dry until the next customer came along. A familiar sight on the beach in the The natural swimming pool. 1950s and 1960s was “The Duck”. This was a former British Army amphibious craft that ferried tourists out onto the Bay. It was operated by the Rooney family. Despite being prone to breakdown, it was a major attraction at the time.[15] 366 Bundoran 367 Modern Bundoran The growth of the holiday industry in the 20th century coincided with shorter working hours, more leisure time, more affluence and the development of activity based holidays. At the beginning of the 21st century Bundoran has continued to enhance its reputation by becoming Ireland's surfing capital and providing amenities like Waterworld which include seaweed baths. The seaweed baths were very popular with previous generations. The town also has many modern hotels, guesthouses, restaurants, night-clubs, bars and amusements. It also has sporting facilities such as golf and horse riding. Central Hotel Fire Tragedy struck on August 8, 1980 when a fire broke out at The Central Hotel in the heart of the town.Ten people died as a result, including five children. In September 2008, the Church reinstalled a stained glass window made by the world renowned Harry Clarke (1889-1931), a window which for many years was lying hidden in the parish house of the local Catholic church . The Council also erected a carved stone monument bench on Central Lane (beside The Central Hotel) in August 2010 as a mark of respect listing the names of the ten people who lost their lives. Transport • The opening in April 2006 of the Bundoran/Ballyshannon bypass has made the resort more accessible. The Drowes River, where the southern part of the bypass commences and which separates County Leitrim from County Donegal, is also the demarcation point between the provinces of Connacht to the south and Ulster to the north. • Bundoran Railway Station opened on 13 June 1866, but finally closed on 1 October 1957.[16] The New Council Offices carpark is where the Bundoran Railway Station once stood. The nearest railway station is Mac Diarmada Station in Sligo Town, where trains run to Dublin Connolly and are operated by Iarnród Éireann. Sligo is 22 miles south from Bundoran along the scenic Atlantic coast. Bus Éireann buses connect Bundoran to Mac Diarmada Station in Sligo Town. Bus Éireann also run a regular service, several times a day, from Derry to Galway, via Letterkenny and Bundoran. Feda O'Donnell runs private buses to Sligo from Bundoran as well. Feda ODonnell [24] offers routes to and from Gweedore via Letterkenny, Donegal Town, Ballyshannon and Bundoran to the west of Ireland, including Sligo and Galway. There is also a regular bus service from Bundoran to Enniskillen. Bundoran strand at dusk. The nearest main international airport to Bundoran is Belfast International Airport at Aldergrove, near Antrim Town, in south County Antrim. Bundoran 368 Recent development Bundoran has seen much development over the past decade, due to its popularity as a seaside destination and the availability of tax reliefs for the development of holiday homes. Bundoran Thousands of music fans attend the Bundoran Sea Sessions Surf and Music Festival every June.[17] Astoria Ballroom The Astoria Ballroom was built in 1953 at a time when dances were a major social activity. Showbands spent many years entertaining large crowds in The Astoria Ballroom. In more recent years, The Astoria Ballroom, under the ownership of Brian McEniff, was to have a number of face lifts and temporary name changes from Planet Earth Nightclub to Bling, and in the 1980s extended to add a new bar. The Astoria Ballroom was a landmark building. However, on 29 November 2008, it was destroyed by fire. It took the fire brigades of Bundoran, Ballyshannon and Belleek over nine hours to extinguish. Two Bundoran firemen sustained burns from the blaze. Education On Railway Road stands the St Louis School, which was built in 1892. The buildings included a School and residence for the Sisters of St Louis. One of the buildings still stands today. Around the same time, the Sisters of St Louis had their secondary school beside the Old Grand Central Cinema in the premises known as The Sea View Hotel. Our Lady Star of the Sea RC Church, Bundoran. The St Joseph's orphanages were erected from funds bequeathed by the late Miss Sarah Crudden, Newtownbutler. These buildings later became known as Ard Lughaidh, much of the building was stone and also had a large sports and theatre hall all of which in 2006 the VEC demolished them for no reason. All that is left on the lands is the extension area used till 1980's by 'live in' students of the Ard Lughaidh, however this is now under the Donegal Adventure Centre ownership. Due to the decreasing class sizes in Ard Lughaigh in the 1990s the school faced closure and some students moved to Ballyshannon. [18] Some of the St. Louis nuns moved to the St. Louis building at Railway Road, however a lot moved away.[19] Bundoran is also home to Atlanticside College, a privately run educational institution that offers a wide range of study courses aimed at both Irish and international students. 'Adult Education' is provided to unemployed persons who wish to return to learning in the Adult Education and Training Centre, Ballyshannon VTOS. A two year FETAC Level 5 Business Studies course is provided in Ballyshannon VTOS and run by Donegal County Vocational Education Committee VEC through funding from the Department of Education and Skills under the National Development Plan 2007 to 2013. Bundoran 369 Surfing In recent times Bundoran has become noted as a surfing location.[20] Golf There is an 18 hole golf course in Bundoran. The golf club was founded in 1894. The course is located on the historic Great Northern Railway Company site, the old railway sleepers encompass the Golf course which enjoys the most breathtaking and scenic views of the Atlantic Ocean. The course is a challenging experience despite its short length.[21] Bundoran GAA Bundoran and its surrounding hills. Bundoran GAA was founded in 1916. In the 1920s the location of Bundoran on the railway line made the Bundoran local ground a convenient venue for many big games. The G.A.A. club grounds were purchased in 1938. The club was reorganised and renamed 'The Star of the Sea'. The football park has undergone many developments throughout the years. The ground was levelled in 1947 and enclosed in 1951. The club changing rooms were constructed in 1972.[15] The juniors were successful in both the 1956 and 1960 Championships. In 1963, "Star of the Sea joined with Ballyshannon team 'Aodh Rua' to become 'St. Joseph's'. That team included many players that contributed to the Donegal team, including Brian McEniff and the former Donegal County Council Manager Michael mcLoone. In 1977 the club was again divided into two clubs, one each for the towns of Bundoran and Ballyshannon. In 1979, Bundoran beat Ballybofey in a nail-biting one point victory to win the Senior Championship. In 1992, local man Brian McEniff led Donegal to the All-Ireland Senior Football Championship, beating Dublin in the final 0-18 to 0-14. Bundoran was the scene of enormous celebrations for almost a month afterwards.[15] Famous natives • • • • Brian McEniff - former Donegal manager. Fr. Paddy Gallagher - a founder of the Credit Union in Ireland. The Most Rev. Dr. Liam MacDaid - Lord Bishop of Clogher Louis Lipsett, a former Major-General in the British Army In popular culture • The song "Beautiful Bundoran" was very popular all over Ireland in the 1950s, and it was performed by Sinéad O'Connor in the film The Butcher Boy.[22] Bundoran 370 International relations Twin towns - Sister cities Bundoran is a founding member of the Douzelage, a unique town twinning association of 24 towns across the European Union. This active town twinning began in 1991 and there are regular events, such as a produce market from each of the other countries and festivals.[23][24] Discussions regarding membership are also in hand with three further towns (Agros in Cyprus, Škofja Loka in Slovenia, and Tryavna in Bulgaria). Altea, Spain - 1991 Bad Kötzting, Germany - 1991 Bellagio, Italy - 1991 Bundoran, Ireland - 1991 Granville, France - 1991 Holstebro, Denmark - 1991 Houffalize, Belgium - 1991 Meerssen, the Netherlands - 1991 Niederanven, Luxembourg - 1991 Preveza, Greece - 1991 Sesimbra, Portugal - 1991 Sherborne, United Kingdom - 1991 Karkkila, Finland - 1997 Oxelösund, Sweden - 1998 Judenburg, Austria - 1999 Chojna, Poland - 2004 Kőszeg, Hungary - 2004 Sigulda, Latvia - 2004 Sušice, Czech Republic - 2004 Türi, Estonia - 2004 Zvolen, Slovakia - 2007 Prienai, Lithuania - 2008 Marsaskala, Malta - 2009 Siret, Romania - 2010 Bundoran References [1] "Census 2006 – Volume 1 – Population Classified by Area" (http:/ / www. cso. ie/ census/ documents/ census2006_volume_1_pop_classified_by_area. pdf) (PDF). Central Statistics Office Census 2006 Reports. Central Statistics Office Ireland. April 2007. . Retrieved 2011-06-10. [2] http:/ / getamap. ordnancesurvey. co. uk/ getamap/ frames. htm?mapAction=gaz& gazName=g& gazString=G8761 [3] http:/ / www. discoverireland. com/ gb/ ireland-places-to-go/ placefinder/ b/ bundoran-donegal/ [4] Hajducki, S. Maxwell (1974). A Railway Atlas of Ireland. Newton Abbott: David & Charles. map 6. ISBN 0-7153-5167-2. [5] Wood-Martin, W.G. (1882-92). History of Sligo, County and Town. From the accession of James I to the Revolution of 1688. Dublin: Hodge & Figgis. pp. 253–257. [6] Bundoran Public Right of Way (1870). Dublin: Mc Glaghan and Magill [7] Hajducki, op. cit., page xiii [8] http:/ / donegalnews. com/ 2012/ 03/ 09/ belle-of-bundoran-back-after-33-years/ [9] McCutcheon, Alan (1970). Ireland. Railway History in Pictures. 2. Newton Abbott: David & Charles. p. 58. ISBN 0-7153-4998-8. [10] Baker, Michael H.C. (1972). Irish Railways since 1916. London: Ian Allan. p. 78. ISBN 7110 0282 7. [11] McCutcheon, 1970, page 115 [12] Hajducki, op. cit., map 39 [13] McCutcheon, 1970, pages 153, 207 [14] McCutcheon, 1970, pages 155, 209 [15] Geagan, M.(2011) Dancing by the sea: A journey through time in the Bundoran area. Bundoran: Stracomer Press ISBN 978-0-9568847-0-1 [16] "Bundoran station" (http:/ / www. railscot. co. uk/ Ireland/ Irish_railways. pdf) (PDF). Railscot - Irish Railways. . Retrieved 2007-09-13. [17] http:/ / www. seasessions. com/ [18] http:/ / historical-debates. oireachtas. ie/ D/ 0396/ D. 0396. 199003130129. html [19] http:/ / www. classmates. ie/ list_all. php?county=Donegal [20] "Emerald Swell: Riding the Frigid Waves of a Raging Sea" (http:/ / www. nytimes. com/ 2008/ 03/ 25/ world/ europe/ 27surfers. html?em& ex=1206763200& en=3b426a1ccc63c7fc& ei=5087 ), New York Times, 27 March 2008 [21] Bundoran Golfclub Website (http:/ / www. bundorangolfclub. com) [22] http:/ / sineadoconnor. safeway. sk/ misc. html [23] "Douzelage.org: Home" (http:/ / www. douzelage. org/ ). www.douzelage.org. . Retrieved 2009-10-21. [24] "Douzelage.org: Member Towns" (http:/ / www. douzelage. org/ index. php?id=15). www.douzelage.org. . Retrieved 2009-10-21. 371 Annagry 372 Annagry Anagaire Annagry — Village — Anagaire Location in Ireland Coordinates: 55°01′09″N 8°18′44″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Government • Dáil Éireann Donegal South–West • EU Parliament North–West [1] Elevation 70 m (unknown operator: u'strong' ft) Population • Rural 249 Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC-1) Area code(s) 074 95, +000 353 74 95 Irish Grid Reference B808187 [2] [3] Anagaire is the only official name. The anglicized spelling Annagry has no official status. Annagry Anagaire (anglicized as Annagry) is a Gaeltacht village in the Rosses area of County Donegal, Ireland. It has a population of around 249. Name The Irish and official name for Annagry is Anagaire, which in turn derives from Áth na gCoire. Language Annagry is in the Gaeltacht region which means the official language of the area is Irish. However, the use of the language has been in decline since the 1950s.[4] Despite this, it boasts a successful Irish language college in the summer months which runs courses for students from English-speaking areas of the country. It's known as Coláiste na Rosann.[5] History Annagry has a long history of immigration, much like the rest of West Donegal.[6] In the 1950s, a large number of locals left the area to work in countries such as England, USA, Australia, Argentina, Canada and especially Scotland. This has resulted in an influx of Scotch-Irish people returning to Annagry and the Scottish influence can be seen in many aspects of life, the huge support for Celtic F.C. for instance.[7] Education The local primary school is Scoil Náisiúnta Dhubhthaigh with 144 pupils,[8] and the nearest secondary school is Rosses Community School in Dungloe.[9] Local amenities The only hotel in the village is Caisleáin Óir.[10] Danny Minnie's is a long-established and award-winning restaurant which attracts many people from all over the county.[11] Sport The local Gaelic Athletic Association (GAA) team is Naomh Mhuire CLG which serves the greater Lower Rosses area.[12] Soccer is very popular in the village due to mass immigration to the United Kingdom. Transport Annagry is situated one mile from Donegal International Airport which is serviced daily by loganair from Dublin Airport and also flies to Glasgow. 373 Annagry Arts In the first week of June, the Annual Festival takes place, when those who have left often return to spend some time in Sharkeys Bar, Caisleáin Óir hotel, (formerly Jack's Bar) and Teach Conal (formerly Duffy's). References [1] Maps, Weather, and Airports for Annagary, Ireland (http:/ / www. fallingrain. com/ world/ EI/ 6/ Annagary. html) [2] http:/ / getamap. ordnancesurvey. co. uk/ getamap/ frames. htm?mapAction=gaz& gazName=g& gazString=B808187 [3] Placenames (Ceantair Ghaeltachta) Order 2004 (http:/ / www. commissioner. ie/ downloads/ An_tOrdu_Logainmneacha_(Ceantair_Ghaeltachta)_2004. pdf). [4] http:/ / anghaeltacht. net/ ctg/ 080323foinse. html [5] http:/ / www. cnr. ie/ [6] http:/ / www. theyworkforyou. com/ sp/ ?id=2011-01-12. 32095. 0 [7] http:/ / www. sharkeys-bar. com/ [8] http:/ / www. schooldays. ie/ school/ s-n-dhubhthaigh-rollnumber-19343L [9] http:/ / www. rossescommunityschool. ie/ index. html [10] http:/ / www. caisleainoir. ie/ Default. aspx?tscategory_id=33 [11] http:/ / www. dannyminnies. com/ [12] http:/ / naomhmhuire. donegal. gaa. ie/ 374 Ardara 375 Ardara Ardara Ard an Rátha — Town — Ardara Location in Ireland Coordinates: 54°46′00″N 8°24′00″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Government • Dáil Éireann [1] Elevation Donegal North–East 45 m (unknown operator: u'strong' ft) Population (2002) • Urban 578 Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC-1) Irish Grid Reference G731906 [2] Website [www.donegalcoco.ie www.donegalcoco.ie] Ardara 376 Ardara (Irish: Ard an Rátha, meaning "Height of the Fort") is a small town in County Donegal, Ireland. It is located on the N56 road. Ardara is a small town with a population of 578 (2002 Census). Over recent years the town has seen some great growth with a lot of the pubs and shops being renovated. Some of the main scenic points near the town are the Glengesh Pass, the Maghera Falls and the views out over the Atlantic from Loughros Point. Looking down south at Front Street in Ardara. In March for the last 10 years the area has hosted a very successful Walking Festival with walkers coming from all over the world, USA, Europe and all over Ireland. All the information on the Festivals of Ardara are available on the town website.[3] The town hosts the annual Cup of Tae Festival, a traditional music festival, each May. Ardara is a popular destination in Ireland with holiday makers. Donegal County Directory for 1862 Kilclooney dolmen near Ardara. The Donegal County Directory for 1862 [4] shows the governmental positions that were held in this county in 1862. Lieutenant and Custos Rotulorum. The Most Hon. the Marquess of ABERCORN, K.G., P.C. (1844), Barons Court, Newtownstewart, county Tyrone; Bentley Priory, Middlesex; Duddingstone House, Portobello, Scotland; Chesterfield House, South Audley-street, London, W.; Carlton Club, London, S.W. High Sheriff (1861-62). WILLIAM JOHN FORSTER, esq., Londonderry. Members of Parliament for the County. THOMAS CONOLLY, esq. (1849), D.L., Cliff, Ballyshannon; Castletown, Celbridge, co. Kildare; 19, Hanover-square, London, W.; Carlton and Boodle's Clubs, London, S.W. The Viscount HAMILTON, B.A. (Oxon), (1860), Colonel of the Donegal Militia, Baron's Court, Newtownstewart; Chesterfield House, South Audley-street, London, W. STAMP DISTRIBUTERS. Ardara, Ralph M'Clintock. CONSTABULARY OFFICERS. County Inspector, Timothy MacMahon, esq., Letterkenny. Sub-Inspectors' Stations. Ballyshannon, William Henry, esq. Buncrana, Edward Dunsterville, esq. Carndonagh, R. Griffin, esq. Dunfanaghy, J. F. Cruice, esq. Dungloe, E. P. Coffey. esq. Glenties, John Croker, esq. Killybegs, J. S. Murphy, esq. Letterkenny, John Corr, esq. Milford, Ion Studdert, esq. Raphoe, John K. Irwin, esq. PETTY SESSIONS COURTS. Place where held, Day, and Name of Clerk. Ardara, second Tuesday; John Crumley, jun. BRIDEWELLS AND KEEPERS. Donegal, James Sharkey. Buncrana, Hugh Swan. Letterkenny, John Morrow. Glenties, William Buchanan. COUNTY INFIRMARY. Treasurer, F. Mansfield, esq., Ardrumman, Letterkenny. Surgeon, Robert Little, A.B., M.B. (T.C.D.), F.R.C.S.I., Lifford. Ardara 377 GLENTIES UNION (Co. Donegal), 27 Electoral Divisions. The Board of Guardians meets on Fridays. Chairman, Robert Russell, esq., J.P., Salthill, Mountcharles. Vice-Chairman, G. V. Wilson, esq., White House, Killybegs. Deputy Vice-Chairman, Alex. Porter, esq., Lackagh, Navin. Treasurer, Ulster Banking Co., Donegal. Clerk and Returning Officer, William Murray. Master and Matron, Patk. Hanlon, and Isabella M'Hugh. Chaplains:- Established Church, Rev. M. B. Cox. Roman Catholic, Rev. Patrick Gallagher. Medical Officer, John T. Kelly. Relieving Officer, Alexander Hill, Glenties. Medical Officers of Dispensary Districts. Ardara, Luke Walsh. Carrick, John A. Huleatt. Dungloe, John Widdup. Glenties, John T. Kelly. Killybegs, Daniel Deveny, L.R.C.S.E. Buildings of note • ' The Mart ', built in 1908, is now the home of Donegal Tweed specialists, Triona Design - [5]. The Nesbitt Arms Hotel, located on The Diamond, is another large building of note in the locality. The hotel was founded in the 1830s. References Notes [1] Maps, Weather, and Airports for Ardara, Ireland (http:/ / www. fallingrain. com/ world/ EI/ 6/ Ardara. html) [2] [3] [4] [5] http:/ / getamap. ordnancesurvey. co. uk/ getamap/ frames. htm?mapAction=gaz& gazName=g& gazString=G731906 Ardara website (http:/ / www. ardara. ie) (http:/ / www. libraryireland. com/ articles/ DonegalCountyDirectoryThom1862/ index. php) http:/ / www. trionadesign. com External links • • • • • Cup of Tae traditional music festival (http://www.cupoftaefestival.com/) The Melting Pot - Ardara's multicultural festival (http://www.ardarameltingpot.com/) Local news and information on Ardara (http://www.ardara.ie/) Big Francies Bar (http://www.bigfranciesbar.com/) (http://www.libraryireland.com/articles/DonegalCountyDirectoryThom1862/index.php) Ballintra 378 Ballintra Ballintra Baile an tSratha — Town — Ballintra Location in Ireland Coordinates: 54°34′30″N 8°07′24″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Population (2006) • Urban 211 Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC-1) Irish Grid Reference G917700 [1] Ballintra (Irish: Baile an tSratha) is a village in the parish of Drumholm in the south of County Donegal, Ireland just off the N15 between Donegal town and Ballyshannon. The village is geographically situated in a limestone area and this natural resource is quarried locally for the building and civil engineering industries. Ballintra lies on the northern bank of the Blackwater river. (The river is sometimes referred to as Ballintra River). The river rises in the hills that lie inland from the town, and flows through a number of small lakes before spilling over a small waterfall in a narrow gorge behind the village. The Blackwater runs low in summer, hence the name Baile an tSratha, town of the stream or dried-up river. Ballintra has two public houses (Jamesie's and the Bay Bush), two grocery stores,a hairdresser, two primary schools (St. Ernan's NS and The Robertson NS) and three churches (Methodist, Church of Ireland, and Roman Catholic). Ballintra is also situated close to Rossnowlagh and Murvagh beaches. Murvagh is also the home to the Donegal golf club. Ballintra Places of interest • A minor road linking the hills with the coast at Rossnowlagh crosses the old N15 in Ballintra. Where these roads cross at the centre of the village stood a tree called the Bay Bush. In the 1980s, the tree was deemed unsafe and was felled. The pub at the crossroads bears its name. Sport • Ballintra is one of the greatest sporting towns in Donegal. Every August bank holiday, people are attracted to the Ballintra Races, in which horse races are held on in a field close to a nearby beach (Murvagh). Proceeds from this go to local amenities in the area.[2] • The local G.A.A. club is called Naomh Bríd (club also includes Laghey). • The local Soccer club is called Copany Rovers (club also includes Laghey). People • Canadian scholar Leonard Boyle was born in Ballintra. • St Asacus is buried in Ballymagroarty, Ballintra. He was St Patrick's blacksmith and was travelling from Ballintra village. Elphin, County Roscommon en route County Down.Famous Gaelic football players include Matt Gallagher, David Walsh, Gary Walsh, Darragh Brogan and the late Pauric Gallagher. Transport • Ballintra railway station opened on 21 September 1905, but finally closed on 1 January 1960.[3] Social History The people of Ballintra and the parish of Drumholm belong mainly to three religious denominations - Methodist, Church of Ireland, and Roman Catholic. The first of these are a minority and the later to make up the remainder in almost equal parts. The village itself is probably now majority Roman Catholic. There has always been very good relations between the everyone in the community. All make use of the Community Centre. In the 1970s Donegal County Council built a small number of social housing units just off the Main Street on the Forge Road. A number of phases followed in which an additional twenty houses were added. A further change was the bypass of the village in the early 1980s. 379 Ballintra The Decline of the Irish Language in Ballintra The 1911 census records only a handful of people in Ballintra who were Irish speakers. Strangely enough, the language was stronger just to the north of Ballintra and Laghey and just to the south. For example, Irish seems to have survived longer on the northern outskirts of Donegal town, in particular around the Townawilly area at Lough Eske(see below), and to the South around Sligo. In his paper "Irish Speaking in the Pre-famine Period", Dr. Garret Fitzgerald remarks that "near Ballintra Roman Catholic church. Ballintra the language seems to have disappeared by the time of the Famine. Around Ballyshannon it also seems to have been almost extinct". As late as 1960 up to a few dozen native Irish speakers remained in Tamhnach a' Mhullaigh (Grassy upland). The famous Irish scholar and campaigner Mairtín Ó Cadhain visited the area in 1957 to record folklore stores in Irish from a family in the area, possibly the McGinley's. In fact, one of the ladies he visited lived to be 100 and died in 2005. References [1] http:/ / getamap. ordnancesurvey. co. uk/ getamap/ frames. htm?mapAction=gaz& gazName=g& gazString=G917700 [2] Editor. "Ballintra / Laghey Notes" (http:/ / www. donegaldemocrat. ie/ news/ local/ ballintra_laghey_23_07_09_1_1994827), Donegal Democrat, July 23, 2009, accessed July 11, 2011. [3] "Ballintra station" (http:/ / www. railscot. co. uk/ Ireland/ Irish_railways. pdf). Railscot - Irish Railways. . Retrieved 2007-09-10. • Drumhome by Bernard Egan External links • The Robertson National School website (http://www.robertson.ie) 380 Ballybofey 381 Ballybofey Ballybofey Bealach Féich — Town — Ballybofey Location in Ireland Coordinates: 54°48′00″N 7°47′24″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Elevation 30 m (unknown operator: u'strong' ft) Population (2006) • Urban 4176 Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC+1) Irish Grid Reference H194946 [1] Website [www.ballybofeystranorlar.com www.ballybofeystranorlar.com] Ballybofey 382 Historical population Year Pop. ±% 1821 1671 — 1831 1515 −9.3% 1841 1167 −23.0% 1851 1297 +11.1% 1861 1404 +8.2% 1871 1349 −3.9% 1881 1429 +5.9% 1891 1219 −14.7% 1901 1203 −1.3% 1911 1189 −1.2% 1926 1250 +5.1% 1936 1198 −4.2% 1946 1256 +4.8% 1951 1274 +1.4% 1956 1586 +24.5% 1961 1878 +18.4% 1966 1942 +3.4% 1971 2214 +14.0% 1981 2928 +32.2% 1986 2964 +1.2% 1991 2972 +0.3% 1996 3047 +2.5% 2002 3603 +18.2% 2006 4176 +15.9% [2][3][4][5][6] Ballybofey (Irish: Bealach Féich, meaning "Fiach's pass" or alternatively Bailebo Fiach meaning "Fiach's bailebo") is a town located on the south bank of the River Finn, County Donegal, Ireland. Along with the smaller town of Stranorlar on the north side of the River Finn, Ballybofey makes up the Twin Towns. The town grew rapidly in the 19th and 20th centuries. Ballybofey also plays host to the Twin Towns Festival which takes place annually. The centrepiece of the festival is a parade on the Sunday. The last of these took place on 19 August 2007.[7] There are no schools or churches in the town of Ballybofey itself, with all these amenities lying either across the McElhinney's Department Store Ballybofey 383 bridge in Stranorlar or outside the town limits. This is due to laws during plantation times when certain Catholic buildings were not allowed within a specified range of Protestant towns, in this case Stranorlar. Just a few miles west of Ballybofey, on the main road to Fintown (the R252), is the Glenmore Estate, located at Welchtown. The estate formerly included Glenmore Lodge, a country house that stood on the opposite, southern bank of the River Finn, very near Glenmore Bridge. The house was originally built in the Georgian-style in the mid- to late-eighteenth-century. It was re-worked for Sir William Styles in the neo-Tudor-style in the early twentieth-century. The house was demolished in the 1990s. The private estate is now famous for its fishing and hunting.[8] 'The Matrimony Tree' sculpture Sport • Ballybofey is home to Finn Park where League of Ireland side Finn Harps play their home games.[9] • Seán MacCumhail Park is also located in Ballybofey, where the Donegal senior football team play most of their home games. People • Conal Gallen, singer and comedian • The Rev. Prof. Ernan McMullin, philosopher • • • • Mark Dorrian Eoghan Muldoon John Tague Barry Hegarty Balor Arts Centre Transport • Ballybofey railway station opened on 3 June 1895, but finally closed on 15 December 1947.[10] References [1] [2] [3] [4] http:/ / getamap. ordnancesurvey. co. uk/ getamap/ frames. htm?mapAction=gaz& gazName=g& gazString=H194946 "Census for post 1821 figures." (http:/ / www. cso. ie/ census). Cso.ie. . Retrieved 2012-02-18. "The Online Historical Population Reports Website" (http:/ / www. histpop. org). Histpop. . Retrieved 2012-02-18. "Northern Ireland Statistics and Research Agency - Census Home Page" (http:/ / www. nisranew. nisra. gov. uk/ census). Nisranew.nisra.gov.uk. . Retrieved 2012-02-18. [5] Lee, JJ (1981). "On the accuracy of the Pre-famine Irish censuses". In Goldstrom, J. M.; Clarkson, L. A.. Irish Population, Economy, and Society: Essays in Honour of the Late K. H. Connell. Oxford, England: Clarendon Press. [6] Mokyr, Joel; O Grada, Cormac (November 1984). "New Developments in Irish Population History, 1700-1850" (http:/ / www3. interscience. wiley. com/ journal/ 120035880/ abstract). The Economic History Review 37 (4): 473–488. doi:10.1111/j.1468-0289.1984.tb00344.x. . Ballybofey [7] "Donegal Direct" (http:/ / www. donegaldirect. com/ ws_events. aspx?Section=Festivals+ & + Events& Region=Stranorlar). Donegal Direct. . Retrieved 2012-02-18. [8] Rowan, Prof. Alistair (1979). Buildings of Ireland: North West Ulster.. London: Penguin Books. p. 564. ISBN 0-300-09667-4. [9] "Finn Harps" (http:/ / www. finnharps. com). Finn Harps. . Retrieved 2012-02-18. [10] "Ballybofey station" (http:/ / www. railscot. co. uk/ Ireland/ Irish_railways. pdf) (PDF). Railscot - Irish Railways. . Retrieved 2007-09-10. External links • Ballybofey/Stranorlar (http://www.ballybofeystranorlar.com/) • Fiach Arts (http://www.fiacharts.com/) 384 Ballyliffin 385 Ballyliffin Ballyliffin Baile Lifin — Town — Ballyliffin Location in Ireland Coordinates: 55°15′N 7°16′W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC-1) Irish Grid Reference C467453 [1] Ballyliffin (Irish: Baile Lifin) is a small village located in the North Western tip of Inishowen, County Donegal, Ireland. The surrounding landscapes are picturesque, with the village being surrounded by Pollan Strand, Binion hill and Crockaughrim hill. History Local history of the area is covered in Charles McGlinchey's publication, ‘The Last of the Name’. It includes accounts of feuds between landlords and tenants, battles and other nuances. Places of interest A small island off Pollan Bay called Glashedy is located roughly one mile off the coast. The English translation of the name is the Island of the Green Cloak derived from the layer of grass present on the top. Throughout the ages various ships have become wrecked near to the island, which provide rich fishing grounds and also contributed the rat population to the island. The nearby Isle of Doagh (no longer separate from mainland) is also worth a visit. Find out more about the area, facilities and things to do at www.visitballyliffin.com Ballyliffin 386 People • Ballyliffin is the birthplace of "The Heretic" John Toland, who coined the ideals of Pantheism. Folklore tells us that John Toland exchanged his soul for a book of wisdom on Binion hill, in a Faustian pact with the devil. It is now understood that these stories are derived from Toland's stance opposing the Catholic church. Ballyliffin. • Former Bohemian FC footballer Fergal Harkin is originally from Ballyliffin. Transport Ballyliffin railway station opened on 1 July 1901, but finally closed on 2 December 1935. It is now a private residence.[2] Sport Ballyliffin also has two 18 hole golf courses. Among Nick Faldo's favourite links courses, they were designed by top course designers, Eddie Hackett, Pat Ruddy and Tom Craddoc. In 2006 the old course was upgraded by Nick Faldo. Ballyliffin Golf Club hosted the 2008 Irish Seniors Open in June 2008[3] References [1] http:/ / getamap. ordnancesurvey. co. uk/ getamap/ frames. htm?mapAction=gaz& gazName=g& gazString=C467453 [2] "Ballyliffin station" (http:/ / www. railscot. co. uk/ Ireland/ Irish_railways. pdf) (PDF). Railscot - Irish Railways. . Retrieved 2007-09-11. [3] http:/ / www. myguideireland. com/ ballyliffin-golf-club-(old-links-and-glashedy)#irish-seniors-open Ballyliffin Golf Club Bridgend, County Donegal 387 Bridgend, County Donegal Bridgend Ceann an Droichid — Town — Bridgend Location in Ireland Coordinates: 55°02′30″N 7°22′48″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Government • Dáil Éireann Donegal North–East Population (2006) • Rural 334 Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC-1) Irish Grid Reference C396217 [1] Bridgend or Bridge End (Irish: Ceann an Droichid) is a small village in County Donegal, Ireland, located on the Inishowen peninsula.. It is located on the road to Letterkenny, on the western outskirts of Derry and at the border between the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland. It has a population of 334 (2006 census). Bridgend, County Donegal Schools The national school or primary school in Bridgend is called St. Aengus' National School. Traditionally, children resident in Bridgend attend secondary schools in Buncrana - Scoil Mhuire (Convent of Mercy) and Crana College (formerly Buncrana Vocational School or more commonly known as the 'tech'). Parish Bridgend is part of Fahan parish which takes in Fahan, Burt and Inch. Bridgend and the GAA Traditionally, children of St. Aengus' N.S. have gone on to play for the local GAA club which is Burt GAC. They have also continued to play for the Club long after they progress to secondary and third level education. Townlands of Bridgend The main townlands of Bridgend are Carrowreagh and Bunamayne (or Bonemaine). They are divided by a river which runs through Bridgend, with Carrowreagh to the north and Bunamayne to the south of the river. Other townlands of Bridgend include Tummock which is a back road running parallel to the Burt main road. References [1] http:/ / getamap. ordnancesurvey. co. uk/ getamap/ frames. htm?mapAction=gaz& gazName=g& gazString=C396217 External links • St. Aengus' National School (http://www.staengusbridgend.scoilnet.ie) 388 Bruckless 389 Bruckless Bruckless An Bhroclais — Town — Round tower - Bruckless Bruckless Location in Ireland Coordinates: 54°38′N 8°23′W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Government • Dáil Éireann Donegal South–West • EU Parliament North–West Population (2002) • Urban 200 Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC-1) Bruckless 390 Area code(s) 074, +000 353 74 Irish Grid Reference G711767 [1] Bruckless (Irish: an Bhroclais, meaning "badger's den") is a small village in southwest Donegal, Ireland, with a population of around 200. It lies on the N56 national secondary road which links it to Donegal Town 20 km east and to Killybegs 7 km west. The village overlooks McSwyne's Bay, an inlet in Donegal Bay. Bruckless is part of the Roman Catholic parish of Killaghtee and the diocese of Raphoe. In the Church of Ireland, it is covered by the parish of Inver and the diocese of Derry & Raphoe. The parish church, the Church of Saints Joseph and Conal, is noted for its round tower, which can be seen from most parts of the village, and there are numerous archaeological artifacts in the area, including early Christian cross slabs. The village pub is called Mary Murrins, and the village also has a petrol station and a small supermarket. External links • Roman Catholic Diocese of Raphoe • Roman Catholic Diocese of Raphoe [2] • Church of Ireland Diocese of Derry & Raphoe [3] References [1] http:/ / getamap. ordnancesurvey. co. uk/ getamap/ frames. htm?mapAction=gaz& gazName=g& gazString=G711767 [2] http:/ / www. raphoediocese. com/ [3] http:/ / www. ireland. anglican. org/ Burtonport 391 Burtonport Ailt an Chorráin Burtonport — Town — Location in Ireland Coordinates: 54°58′56″N 8°26′04″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Government • Dáil Éireann Donegal South–West Irish Grid Reference B717154 [1] As this is a Gaeltacht village, the Irish Ailt an Chorráin is the only official name. Ailt an Chorráin or Ailt a' Chorráin (English name: Burtonport)[2] is a Gaeltacht fishing village about 7 km northwest of Dungloe in County Donegal, Ireland. 41% of Burtonport area residents are native Irish speakers. The main employers in the village are the Burtonport Fishermen's Co-op and the Bord Iascaigh Mhara (Irish Sea Fisheries Board) ice plant. In recent years these establishments have been in decline due to the abandonment of fishing as a career and way of life by locals, due to depleted fish stocks and very restrictive fishing laws. Burtonport 392 History A plaque there commemorates the brief landing on the nearby island of Inishmacadurn (or Rutland Island) of a French military force led by James Napper Tandy in a failed attempt to assist rebels during the 1798 rebellion on 16 September 1798. Transport As the mainland port for both the Arranmore car ferry service and the Arranmore fast ferry passenger service, Burtonport receives a lot of passing tourist traffic. Burtonport had a railway service from Letterkenny between 1903 and 1940 provided by the Letterkenny & Burtonport Extension Railway (L&BER), a company jointly owned by the State and the Londonderry and Lough Swilly Railway (L&LSR). Burtonport railway station opened on 9 March 1903, but finally closed on 3 June 1940.[3] People The ferry leaving Burtonport for Arranmore • Joseph Sweeney, Irish politician and former MP • Packie Bonner is from the area around Burtonport. • Peadar O'Donnell novelist, leftist, and prominent IRA activist from the 1920-30s era was born in Burtonport. References [1] http:/ / getamap. ordnancesurvey. co. uk/ getamap/ frames. htm?mapAction=gaz& gazName=g& gazString=B717154 [2] Placenames (Ceantair Ghaeltachta) Order 2004 (http:/ / www. commissioner. ie/ downloads/ An_tOrdu_Logainmneacha_(Ceantair_Ghaeltachta)_2004. pdf) [3] "Burtonport station" (http:/ / www. railscot. co. uk/ Ireland/ Irish_railways. pdf). Railscot - Irish Railways. . Retrieved 2007-09-13. • That Old Sinner – Letterkenny and Burtonport Railway by Frank Sweeney (http://www.nwipp-newspapers. com/UH/free/313226695565509.php) Ulster Herald Carndonagh 393 Carndonagh Carndonagh Carn Domhnach — Town — South West View of Carndonagh Carndonagh Location in Ireland Coordinates: 55°15′N 7°16′W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Dáil Éireann Donegal North–East EU Parliament North–West Elevation 32 m (unknown operator: u'strong' ft) [1] Population (2006) • Total 1923 Irish Grid Reference C467453 [1] Carndonagh 394 Carndonagh (Irish: Carn Domhnach) is a town on the Inishowen peninsula in County Donegal, Ireland. The town is located near Malin Head, the most northerly point of Ireland and lies close to the shores of Trawbeaga Bay. Carndonagh is the main market town on the peninsula and is the site of the Donagh Cross, which belonged to an early Christian monastery founded by St. Patrick for Bishop MacCairthan, brother of the bishop of Clogher. The original Irish name, Carn Domhnach, means the burial mound of the church. The town is laid out around a central square, or Diamond, and is dominated by its Italianate Catholic church. It is Carndonagh town centre (The diamond) also home to Carndonagh Community School, formerly the largest community school in Ireland. It is a small but pretty town consisting of cafés, pubs, a variety of shops and a nightclub. Carndonagh has a community of active musicians, artists and writers and is home to the Inishowen Carnival Group and the Inishowen Gospel choir (both international performers). Transport Carndonagh railway station opened on 1 July 1907, but finally closed on 2 December 1935.[2] Sport Some of the sports clubs and organisations active within the community in Carndonagh are: • Carndonagh GAA- the local Gaelic football club.[3] • Carndonagh F.C. - the local soccer club, participating in the Inishowen Football League. • Inishowen Rugby Club - Promoted four seasons in a row and participating in an Ulster league. [4] Carndonagh Shopping Centre. • Inishowen Athletic Club [5] • Carndonagh Boxing Club Media Carndonagh is also the location of the studios of Inishowen Community Radio (ICR FM), one of three radio stations in the county and the only community station in the north west. People • • • • Comedian Tommy Tiernan Engineer John Pitt Kennedy Actor Keith McErlean Footballer Gary Doherty Carndonagh References [1] "Census 2006 – Volume 1 – Population Classified by Area" (http:/ / www. cso. ie/ census/ documents/ census2006_volume_1_pop_classified_by_area. pdf) (PDF). Central Statistics Office Census 2006 Reports. Central Statistics Office Ireland. April 2007. . Retrieved 2011-06-09. [2] "Carndonagh station" (http:/ / www. railscot. co. uk/ Ireland/ Irish_railways. pdf). Railscot - Irish Railways. . Retrieved 2007-09-14. [3] http:/ / www. carndonaghgaa. com [4] http:/ / www. inishowenrugby. com [5] http:/ / www. inishowenac. com 395 Carrigans 396 Carrigans Carrigans An Carraigín — Town — Carrigans Location in Ireland Coordinates: 54°57′06″N 7°25′43″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Government • Dáil Éireann Donegal North–East Population (2006) • Urban 191 Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC-1) Irish Grid Reference Website [www.stjohnstonandcarrigans.com www.stjohnstonandcarrigans.com] Carrigans (Irish: An Carraigín) is a village in The Laggan, a district in the east of County Donegal, Ireland. The village is located only a short distance from the River Foyle on the R236 regional road. Sharkey Signs, a car graphics company and sign manufacturer is located in the CCCP complex. Dunmore House, on the edge of the village, is a country house owned by Sir John McFarland, 3rd Bt.. External links Carrigans village. • Official site [1] Carrigans 397 References [1] http:/ / www. stjohnstonandcarrigans. com Carrigart Carraig Airt Carrigart — Village — Carraig Airt Location in Ireland Coordinates: 55°10′37″N 7°47′38″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Area code(s) 074, +000 353 74 Irish Grid Reference B847228 [1] Carraig Airt is the only official name. The anglicized spelling Carrigart has no official status. Carraig Airt[2] (anglicised as Carrigart) is a small Gaeltacht village in the Barony of Kilmacrenan to the north of County Donegal, Ireland. The village is on the R245 route between Letterkenny and Creeslough. Situated as it is at the base of the Rosguill peninsula, in one of the more remote but most scenic parts of the country, the village Carrigart provides services for a large hinterland, with a supermarket with banking facilities, a post office, a doctor's surgery and a barracks manned part-time by An Garda Síochána. Carrigart has a public park that borders the shoreline behind the houses on the main street. Designed by Angela Gallagher, it is maintained by the Tidy Towns Committee and has won several awards. The village and its environs remain largely agricultural, relying heavily on passing trade and tourism during the summer months. In common with the rest of this part of Donegal, Carrigart has a large number of second homes, owned especially by Northern Irish holiday makers. The village, which celebrated its centenary in 2002, although there is evidence of Carrigart's existence for longer than that, originally formed part of the estates of the Earls of Leitrim, nearby Mulroy House being one of their seats. William Clements, 3rd Earl of Leitrim, was assassinated in nearby Cratlagh wood in 1878 by men from the neighbouring peninsula of Fanad. In the 18th and 19th centuries, Carrigart had a fair day[3] on June 21. Each year the town holds host to a festival that runs from 8 to 14 August. The official name given to Carrigart is Carraig Airt but it has also been translated as Ceathrú Fhiodhghoirt, meaning meaning Quarterland of the Wood of the Field [4] References [1] http:/ / getamap. ordnancesurvey. co. uk/ getamap/ frames. htm?mapAction=gaz& gazName=g& gazString=B847228 [2] Placenames (Ceantair Ghaeltachta) Order 2004 (http:/ / www. commissioner. ie/ downloads/ An_tOrdu_Logainmneacha_(Ceantair_Ghaeltachta)_2004. pdf). [3] Statistical Survey of the County of Donegal with Observations on the Means of Improvement, Drawn up in the year 1801, For the consideration and under the direction of The Dublin Society, by James McParlan M.D. [4] Deirdre and Laurence Flanagan, Irish Place Names, Gill & Macmillan, 2002. 398 Castlefin 399 Castlefin Castlefin Caisleán na Finne — Village — The centre of Castlefin village. Castlefin Location in Ireland Coordinates: 54°48′11″N 7°35′48″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC-1) Irish Grid Reference Castlefin[1] (Irish: Caisleán na Finne, meaning "castle of the (river) Finn"), sometimes spelt Castlefinn, is a market town in the Finn Valley of County Donegal, Ireland. The town has a population of 810 (2006) and is located between Ballybofey and Lifford. The River Finn flows by the town. The town is located in along the main N15 national primary road, which runs from Bundoran to Lifford. The town lies 6 miles from Lifford and 8 miles from the twin towns of Ballybofey /Stranorlar. It has close links to the twin towns of Ballybofey/ Stranorlar, Letterkenny and has strong links with West Tyrone in Northern Ireland, especially with the towns of Strabane and Castlederg. Castlefin 400 Amenities The main social outlet in the town is a pub called McBrides, at the foot of the Long Brae beside the main road between Lifford and Ballybofey. Other pubs in the town include Tinneys and Lynch's aka skins. The five housing estates in the town are called the Emmett Park, Sessaigh Park, Caislean Court, Hillhead and Grahamsland - these were built in the 1960s. The town centre is located around the Diamond area, which is where 3 routes merge. This area has a number of functions, mainly retail/commercial. The Diamond is an attractive area, with landscaped seating and planting areas. This area also has a number of buildings that are included on the Record of Protected Structures. The town has a number of functions including retail, commercial, education, religious, economic, agricultural, social and recreational and a the C.P.I center where the Garden show is based. However, the majority of functions are limited in scope due to the deficiency in population to support a number of large-scale services. Approaching Castlefinn from the south. Castlefinn serves as the focus of primary education for the surrounding rural areas. The National School has a large catchment area and currently has 225 pupils attending. This provides employment for 10 full time teachers and a number of associated job opportunities. The town has a play school for pre-school age children. The town centre is the focus of a wide range of functions and activities. The town offers the basic essential retail outlets including grocery stores, petrol station, Post office, butchers, take-aways, public houses and some hairdressers . The town also has a recycling facility that is located on the Castlederg road beside the bridge. The main facility is the C.P.I center witch is used for football,parties,computering and the youth club. Holmes' Coaches operated by Gerard Holmes- is the main transport for the schools, but Castlefinn Cabs and Bus Hire - operated by Michael Carlin- is another taxi company. History Castlefinn is in the parish of Donaghmore, barony of Raphoe, 4.5 miles from Lifford. Its name translates from the castle on the banks of the river finn, the stones from the castle were used in the construction of the bridge that still stands today, and at the close of Elizabeth I’s reign it belonged to Sir Neill Garbh O’Donnell. It is situated on the river Finn, which is navigable to the River Foyle for vessels of 14 tons’ burden, is on the road from Strabane to Stranorlar and in 1837 consisted of a single street, with a Roman Catholic Chapel.[2] Castlefin Industry There used to be a clothing factory in the town which made shirts and other items, but like so much of the textile industry in Donegal, this is long since gone. Schools • St Mary's National School, Castlefinn, St Mary's NS Website [3] www.stmarysns.info • Scoil Náisiúnta Domhnach Mór, Liscooley, Castlefinn • St. Safan's, Scoil NáisiÚnta Naomh Samhthann, Drumdoit, Castlefinn Castlefinn also offers a pre-school for children five and under. Transport Castlefinn railway station opened on 7 September 1863, but finally closed on 1 January 1960.[4] A number of buses pass through Castlefinn on a daily basis going to Letterkenny, Derry, Strabane, Dublin, Sligo and Galway. References [1] Placenames Database of Ireland (http:/ / www. logainm. ie/ 16131. aspx) [2] "Castlefinn - Lewis's Topographical Dictionary of Ireland, 1837" (http:/ / www. from-ireland. net/ lewis/ don/ castlefinn. htm). From Ireland. . Retrieved 2007-09-16. [3] http:/ / www. stmarysns. info [4] "Castlefinn station" (http:/ / www. railscot. co. uk/ Ireland/ Irish_railways. pdf) (PDF). Railscot - Irish Railways. . Retrieved 2007-09-16. External links • • • • • Castlefinn Online (http://www.castlefinn.com/) Doneyloop Youth Club (http://www.doneyloopyouthclub.com/) Fiach Arts (http://www.fiacharts.com/) Urney and Castlefinn Parish (http://www.urneyandcastlefinparish.com/) Donegal County Council - Castlefinn Local Area Plan (http://www.donegalcoco.ie/services/ informationpoints/planning/lapcastlefin.htm) 401 Churchill, County Donegal 402 Churchill, County Donegal Church Hill Mín an Lábáin — Town — Churchill, County Donegal Church Hill Location in Ireland Coordinates: 54°59′26″N 7°53′40″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Government • Dáil Éireann Donegal North–East Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC-1) Area code(s) 074 Irish Grid Reference C068159 [1] Churchill, County Donegal Church Hill, historically known as Minalaban[2] (Irish: Mín an Lábáin), is a small village located 8 miles from County Donegal's largest town of Letterkenny, Ireland. The village's name is derived from its location on a small hilltop. The village boasts a post office, one grocery shop, a take away and three pubs. The local Catholic church is located a mile away while there is a Church of Ireland located in the village itself. Churchill Fair The fair takes place on the third weekend in July. Places of interest Nearby attractions include the Colmcille Heritage Centre, the Glebe House and Gallery, Glenveagh Castle and Newmills Corn and Flax Mills. People The landscape and portrait painter Derek Hill lived and worked in Churchill until 1954. He presented his house and his art collection to the Irish state in 1981. References [1] http:/ / getamap. ordnancesurvey. co. uk/ getamap/ frames. htm?mapAction=gaz& gazName=g& gazString=C068159 [2] Placenames Database of Ireland (http:/ / www. logainm. ie/ ?text=church+ hill& placeID=15465) Cloghan, County Donegal Cloghan (Irish: An Clochán) is a village located in the rural centre of County Donegal, Ireland, on the R252 regional road 13 km (unknown operator: u'strong' mi) northwest of the “Twin Towns” of Ballybofey and Stranorlar. Cloghan boasts one of the most prolific wild salmon and sea trout fishing areas in Ireland. The Finn River System includes a catchment area of about 195 square miles (unknown operator: u'strong' km2) and includes up to 20 loughs as well as the River Finn and River Reelan. The area is also noted as a hunting location and has miles of hiking trails in the Bluestack Mountains that divides County Donegal, north from south. External links • Fiach Arts [1] References [1] http:/ / www. fiacharts. com/ 403 Clonmany 404 Clonmany Clonmany Cluain Maine — Town — Clonmany Location in Ireland Coordinates: 55°15′45″N 7°24′45″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Government • Dáil Éireann Donegal North–East [1] Area • Town 95.01 km2 (unknown operator: u'strong' sq mi) Population (2006) • Urban 303 • Rural 3306 Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC-1) Area code(s) 074, +353 74 Irish Grid Reference C374463 [2] Clonmany (Irish: Cluain Maine) is a village in north-west Inishowen, in County Donegal, Ireland. The area has many local beauty spots, and the Ballyliffin area is famous for its golf course. The Urris area to the west of Clonmany village was the last bastion of the Irish language in Inishowen. In the 19th century, the area was a frequent location of poitín distillation (a strong Irish spirit). Clonmany 405 Name The name of the town in Irish - Cluain Maine has been translated as both "The Meadow of St. Maine" and "The Meadow of the Monks", with the former being the more widely recognised translation. [[File:The Square, Clonmany - geograph.org.uk - 1391607.jpg|left|260px|thumb|The Square, History Although the village itself is the youngest in Inishowen, the Clonmany area is steeped in history, and dolmens, forts and standing stones dot the landscape. The parish was home to a monastery, closely associated with the Morrison family, who provided the role of erenagh. The monastery was home to the Míosach a copper and silver shrine, now located in the National Museum of Ireland in Dublin. Details of local history and traditions were recorded in "The Last of the Name", recorded by schoolteacher Patrick Kavanagh (NOT the poet) from stories by Clonmany local, Charles McGlinchey. Climate The location of Clonmany on the Inishowen peninsula, and bordering Lough Swilly with views of the Atlantic provides the Clonmany area with a moderate climate; with temperate,mild summers, and winters that rarely go below freezing. The average temperatures for the area are usually warmer than the national average in winter, and cooler than the national average in summer. Education Clonmany has four primary schools, Clonmany N.S. (with a new state of the art school), Scoil Naomh Treasa (also known as Tiernasligo N.S. locally), Scoil Phádraig at Rashenny, and Scoil na gCluainte, or Cloontagh National School. Most students from these schools go on to attend secondary level education at Carndonagh Community School in Carndonagh, with most of the remainder attending Scoil Mhuire or Crana College in Buncrana. [3] Clonmany Roman Catholic church. Transport Clonmany railway station opened on 1 July 1901, but finally closed on 2 December 1935.[4] Culture & Tourism Clonmany is host to the annual McGlinchey summer school, which attracts many visitors to its exhibitions and lectures on local history. Another attraction is the Clonmany festival, held annually during the week of the Irish August public holiday. The Clonmany Agricultural Show and Sheepdog Trials takes place on the Tuesday of festival week, with visitors from all over Inishowen and the Northwest of Ireland. Clonmany References [1] Census 2002 - Volume 1 (http:/ / www. cso. ie/ census/ documents/ vol1_entire. pdf): Population Classified By Area, Central Statistics Office, Dublin, 2003 [2] http:/ / getamap. ordnancesurvey. co. uk/ getamap/ frames. htm?mapAction=gaz& gazName=g& gazString=C374463 [3] http:/ / www. clonmanyns. com [4] "Clonmany station" (http:/ / www. railscot. co. uk/ Ireland/ Irish_railways. pdf) (PDF). Railscot - Irish Railways. . Retrieved 2007-09-17. External links • Clonmany.com, official Clonmany website (http://www.clonmany.com) 406 Convoy, County Donegal 407 Convoy, County Donegal Convoy Conmhaigh — Town — Convoy Location in Ireland Coordinates: 54°50′08″N 7°28′40″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Dáil Éireann Donegal North–East Population • Urban 2376 Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC-1) Irish Grid Reference Convoy (Irish: Conmhaigh) is a village in the east of County Donegal, Ireland in the Finn Valley region. It is part of the county Barony of Raphoe. It is situated on the river Deele, and on the road from Stranorlar to Raphoe, from which latter parish it was separated in 1825, and formed into a distinct parish. At its north-western extremity is the mountain of Cark, 1198 feet above the level of the sea.[1] Convoy has a total population of 1193 according to the 2006 census. Convoy is home to a mixed religious community which is reflected in the schools and churches in the town. There is a Roman Catholic and a mixed primary school as well as a Roman Catholic church, a Church of Ireland and a Free Presbyterian Church of Ulster (which was opened by the founder Rev. Ian Paisley). There are no secondary schools in Convoy and local children tend to travel to Raphoe or Stranorlar for second level education. Convoy, County Donegal 408 Convoy Woollen Mill Convoy once had a woollen mill located on the banks of the River Deele, but this closed in the early 1980s with the resultant loss of many local jobs. Most people who lived in Convoy worked in the Convoy Woollen Mill and what economy there was managed to sustain a couple of shops and the Post Office. If one did not work in the Mill or manage to get casual labouring jobs in one of the farms outside the village, one had little choice but to emigrate, to either building work in England or Scotland or to the promise of something better in America.[2] The woollen mill is now host to a business area that has been promoted and assisted by the state development body FAS. Convoy House The Montgomery family of Convoy is descended from Alexander Montgomery, Prebendary of Doe who died about 1658. He was brought over from Scotland by his kinsman, George Montgomery,who became first Protestant bishop of Raphoe in 1604. Alexander Montgomery of Croaghan, near Lifford, bought the Convoy estate from the Nesbitt family in 1719. Boyton House was first occupied in November 1807 by the family of Robert Montgomery of Brandrim who had inherited the estate form his cousin, Sandy Montgomery of Convoy.Sandy represented Donegal in Grattan’s parliament for thirty two years. He spent part of his youth in America and was noted for his duelling. His brothers were John of Lisbon and Richard, a general in Washington’s army who fell at the siege of Quebec in 1775. Sandywas a friend of Lord Edward Fitzgerald and a secret supporter of the United Irishmen. He voted against the Act of Union in 1800. Boyton House used to contain the letter which Washington wrote to the family on Richard’s death and receipts for meat bought by thehundred-weight in Raphoe by the Montgomery family for free distribution in Convoy during the Famine. The house passed through marriage to the Boyton family in the nineteenth century.[3] Transport Convoy railway station opened on 1 January 1909, and closed on 1 January 1960.[4] The nearest railway station is operated by Northern Ireland Railways and runs from Derry / Londonderry railway station via Coleraine to Belfast Central railway station and Belfast Great Victoria Street railway station. The strategically important Belfast-Derry railway line is to be upgraded to facilitate more frequent trains and improvements to the permanent way such as track and signalling to enable faster services. Convoy, Co. Donegal. Sport Convoy has a local amateur football team, Convoy Arsenal. The club were Donegal Junior League winners in 2003, won the Division One title in 2004 and were runners-up in the Premier Division in 2005. On the back of that success, Convoy Arsenal joined the Ulster Senior League in 2005. As well as catering for the more senior players from the area, they presently have teams in the Donegal Saturday League in the under-8, under-10, under-12, under-14 and under-16 grades. St. Mary's G.A.A is the local G.A.A club. Founded in 1928 the club caters for players both male and female at all age levels in football. The players come from the villages of Convoy, Drumkeen and Raphoe with the pitch located in Convoy. They have a long and distinguished history having won many junior titles. Convoy, County Donegal 409 References [1] http:/ / www. from-ireland. net/ lewis-topographical-dictionary-article/ Convoy/ Donegal [2] http:/ / www. bbc. co. uk/ northernireland/ radiofoyle/ peoples_war/ stories/ mcbride. shtml [3] http:/ / www. eastdonegalulsterscots. com/ newbookletsm. pdf [4] "Convoy station" (http:/ / www. railscot. co. uk/ Ireland/ Irish_railways. pdf). Railscot – Irish Railways. . Retrieved 2007-09-23. External links • Fiach Arts (http://www.fiacharts.com/) St. Ninian's Church of Ireland, Convoy. Creeslough 410 Creeslough Creeslough An Craoslach — Town — A view of Creeslough village, taken in 2008. Creeslough Location in Ireland Coordinates: 55°07′20″N 7°54′22″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC-1) Irish Grid Reference C055307 Website www.creeslough.com [1] [2] Creeslough (Irish: An Craoslach, meaning 'The Gorge' or 'Throat Lake' ) is a village in County Donegal, Ireland. It lies 12 km south of Dunfanaghy on the N56 road, 54 m above sea level and overlooking an arm of Sheephaven Bay. It is a small village, with the population of the surrounding area engaged mainly in agriculture, mostly livestock rearing, as little of the surrounding land is suitable for tillage. Creeslough 411 Places of interest Nearby attractions include: • Doe Castle, a 16th century castle of the MacSuibhne clan, which has been restored during 2002-2005. It is perhaps best known as the place to which Owen Roe O'Neill returned to command the Irish Confederate's Ulster army in 1642 during the Irish Confederate Wars. • Ards Forest Park, which contains some megalithic tombs, ringforts and a Mass rock. The forest park encompasses a variety of habitats, including sand dunes, tidal salt marsh as well as several small lakes, two of which are vegetation-filled and in the process of becoming bogs. • Remains of the Owencarrow Viaduct, whose railway line closed in 1941. Scene of the Owencarrow Viaduct Disaster. • Glenveagh National Park, which was created in 1981 from lands granted to the state by Henry P. McIlhenny, of Philadelphia. • The surrounding mountainous areas are suitable for hill walking and are notable for their ease of access. Muckish, with its distinctive outline and a number of routes to the summit to choose from, is a popular destination with walkers. The annual Glover Highlander walk (from Muckish to Errigal) starts nearby.[3] There are several marked trails to choose from in Glenveagh National Park, as well as the possibility for off-trail hiking. Architecture The Roman Catholic church, St Michael's, is notable for its architecture, being modelled on the nearby table mountain of Muckish. The architect, Liam McCormack, was also responsible for the design of the RIAI Triennial Gold Medal-winning St Aengus' Church, Burt, County Donegal. The church bell was moved from the bell tower associated with (the now demolished) Doe Chapel. The remains of the outer walls of the chapel are situated within the current graveyard at Doe (in the townland of Cashelmore, 3 km north of Creeslough). The bell tower was, however, not demolished. Transport Creeslough railway station opened on 9 March 1903, closed for passenger traffic on 3 June 1940, and finally closed altogether on 6 January 1947.[4] Education • Creeslough supports two primary schools, Scoil Mhuire (142 pupils, 2011 figures,[5] Roman Catholic) and Creeslough National School (20 pupils, 2011 figures,[5] Church of Ireland). • Creeslough also contains a National School by the name of Glassan National School, located 5 km to the West of Creeslough village. A view of the countryside around Creeslough with Muckish mountain in the background. Creeslough People • Bridie Gallagher, acclaimed singer • Thomas Bartholomew Curran, barrister and Anti-Parnellite • Kathleen Antonelli, programmer of the first ever computer In popular culture In the novel An Answer from Limbo by Brian Moore, the Clonmass Bay at Ards Forest Park, Creeslough. main character, Eileen Tierney was born and reared in Creeslough and it is remembered and described by her with fondness. No News at Throat Lake is a non-fiction book by Lawrence Donegan about working for a bi-weekly newspaper in Creeslough. The area has featured in many Irish folk songs, the most famous being "Cutting the Corn in Creeslough" which has been covered by the likes of Daniel O'Donnell and Creeslough native Bridie Gallagher. References [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] http:/ / getamap. ordnancesurvey. co. uk/ getamap/ frames. htm?mapAction=gaz& gazName=g& gazString=C055307 http:/ / www. creeslough. com/ http:/ / www. simonstewart. ie/ Glover/ glover. htm "Creeslough station" (http:/ / www. railscot. co. uk/ Ireland/ Irish_railways. pdf) (PDF). Railscot - Irish Railways. . Retrieved 2007-09-23. http:/ / www. education. ie/ panels/ foundepl. jsp?page=14& educator2=Primary+ Schools& pcategory=10917& language=EN& county=Donegal& educator=Primary+ Schools& ecategory=12016& roll_no=& Submit=Submit External links • Creeslough on Mapquest (http://www.mapquest.com/maps/map.adp?formtype=address& searchtype=address&country=IE&addtohistory=&city=creeslough) • Creeslough News (http://www.creeslough.com/index.html) • Doe Castle (http://www.dun-na-ngall.com/doe.html) 412 Crolly 413 Crolly Croithlí — Village — Croithlí Location in Ireland Coordinates: 55°01′09″N 8°18′44″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Government • Dáil Éireann [1] Donegal South–West Elevation 70 m (unknown operator: u'strong' ft) Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC-1) Irish Grid Reference B808187 [2] Croithlí is the only official name. The anglicized spelling Crolly has no official status. Crolly (Irish: Croithlí or Croichshlí[2]) is a village in the Gaeltacht parishes of Gweedore (Gaoth Dobhair) and the Rosses (Na Rosa), County Donegal, Ireland. The two parishes are separated by the picturesque Crolly River. It has Crolly 414 one convenience shop and one public house, Páidí Óg's.[3] Crolly Dolls The village gained national and international fame due to the opening of the Crolly Factory in 1939 which started making the renowned Crolly Dolls. The early dolls were handmade with a soft-filled body, a strong head and arms and legs. Their clothes were made from local fabrics and knitted vestments. Soft toys for boys, like teddy bears, were also made at the factory. The original factory closed in the 1970s. This was a major blow to the local economy. However, in 1993, the popularity of the dolls was recognised and a smaller company was reopened. The Crolly Doll is sold all over the world.[4] References [1] Maps, Weather, and Airports for Annagary, Ireland (http:/ / www. fallingrain. com/ world/ EI/ 6/ Annagary. html) Crolly waterfall. [2] Placenames (Ceantair Ghaeltachta) Order 2004 (http:/ / www. commissioner. ie/ downloads/ An_tOrdu_Logainmneacha_(Ceantair_Ghaeltachta)_2004. pdf). [3] http:/ / www. tidytowns. ie/ u_reports/ 2005/ 2005%20COUNTY%20DONEGAL%20CROLLY. pdf [4] http:/ / www. askaboutireland. ie/ learning-zone/ primary-students/ looking-at-places/ donegal/ home-life-in-donegal/ games-and-toys/ crolly-dolls/ Doochary 415 Doochary An Dúchoraidh — Village — An Dúchoraidh Location in Ireland Coordinates: 54°39′36″N 8°17′56″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC-1) Irish Grid Reference An Dúchoraidh is the only official name. The anglicized spelling Doochary has no official status. An Dúchoraidh (anglicized as Doochary),[1] meaning "the black weir", is a small village in the Rosses area of County Donegal, Ireland. Doochary is within the Gaeltacht, meaning the Irish language is the main language used there, but concern has been expressed regarding the decline of the language in the area.[2] Doochary was awarded the Tidy Towns award in 1997.[3] Doochary References [1] Placenames Database of Ireland (http:/ / www. logainm. ie/ 130358. aspx) [2] http:/ / historical-debates. oireachtas. ie/ D/ 0132/ D. 0132. 195206190014. html [3] http:/ / www. webcitation. org/ query?url=http:/ / www. geocities. com/ Heartland/ Estates/ 6587/ Doochary. html& date=2009-10-25+ 07:35:14 416 Dunfanaghy 417 Dunfanaghy Dunfanaghy Dún Fionnachaidh — Village — A view of Dunfanaghy main street. Dunfanaghy Location in Ireland Coordinates: 55°10′59″N 7°58′16″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Elevation 15 m (unknown operator: u'strong' ft) [1] Population (2006) • Total 316 Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC-1) Irish Grid Reference C015372 [2] Dunfanaghy (Dún Fionnachaidh, fort of the fair-haired warrior, in Irish) is a small village, formerly a fishing port and commercial centre, in County Donegal, Ireland. Dunfanaghy is located on Donegal's North West coast, Dunfanaghy 418 specifically the west side of Sheephaven Bay. It is on the N56 road. Description The centre of Dunfanaghy is a small square with a market house built in 1847 and a quay built in 1831 and formerly used to export corn. There are four churches: Clondehorky Old Church (now ruined), Dunfanaghy Presbyterian Church, Holy Cross (Roman Catholic) and Holy Trinity Church of Ireland. The village is also home to a golf club, several art galleries and craft shops, and a museum, situated in part of a former workhouse, which describes the effects of the Irish Potato Famine on Dunfanaghy. Dunfanaghy is also home to St. Michael's (Naomh Mícheál in Irish) Gaelic football club. Local area Just outside the village is a three-mile-long sandy beach known as Killahoey Strand. On May 2, 1943, a Flying Fortress of the USAAF on a ferry flight to Northern Ireland landed on the beach after running out of fuel. The crew were entertained in the local hotel and the aircraft refuelled and took off again (to be destroyed 6 weeks later over Germany). View of Dunfanaghy from Horn Head. West of Dunfanaghy are New Lake and Tramore Strand, a two-mile-long beach. New Lake was formerly a salt water marsh, but during the First World War, over-cutting of the grass on the surrounding sand dunes led to their destabilisation and the movement of the sand to block up the river. As a result, the marsh filled with fresh water and became a lake. The sand also silted up Dunfanaghy harbour. The New Lake became a haven for seabirds and is now a Special Protection Area. Also nearby is Sessiagh Lough, a small lough with a crannog in the middle. A disused anchor on dislay in the centre of the village. Across the bay from Dunfanaghy is Horn Head, which shelters Dunfanaghy from the Atlantic Ocean and is an Irish Natural Heritage Area. Dunfanaghy is close to Portnablagh and Marble Hill, both of which also have popular beaches. Other sights in the vicinity include: Ards Forest Park, Ards (Capuchin) Friary, Glenveagh National Park, Doe Castle and the Derryveagh Mountains, the most prominent being Muckish Mountain and Mount Errigal. Dunfanaghy 419 Workhouse As in many parts of Ireland in the mid nineteenth century, a Workhouse was constructed nearby for the detention and maintenance of destitute local people. The first occupants were admitted in June 1845,[3] at the beginning of the Great Famine. Parts of the original building have recently been restored and now function as an interpretive centre of the Famine and its impact on the local inhabitants. Near the workhouse, on the Falcarragh road, is the former Union fever hospital. Closed in 1922, it was reopened as a national school in the 1930s and fulfilled this role until the 1960s. Since 1968 it has been used as an artists studio and gallery.[4] Dunfanaghy Workhouse Heritage Centre Transport Dunfanaghy Road was previously a stop on the Londonderry and Lough Swilly Railway although the station was in fact six miles from Dunfanaghy itself. Dunfanaghy Road railway station opened on 9 March 1903, closed for passenger traffic on 3 June 1940 and finally closed altogether on 6 January 1947.[5] Lough Swilly Buses still serve the area with four buses per day going from Dunfanaghy to Letterkenny and vice versa. Lough Swilly Busses also provide school buses to primary schools and the main secondary schools St Eunan's College and Loreto Convent in Letterkenny during the school terms. References [1] "Census 2006 – Volume 1 – Population Classified by Area" (http:/ / www. cso. ie/ census/ documents/ census2006_volume_1_pop_classified_by_area. pdf) (PDF). Central Statistics Office Census 2006 Reports. Central Statistics Office Ireland. April 2007. . Retrieved 2011-06-25. [2] http:/ / getamap. ordnancesurvey. co. uk/ getamap/ frames. htm?mapAction=gaz& gazName=g& gazString=C015372 [3] Dudley Edwards, Robert (1976). Robert Dudley Edwards &Thomas Desmond Williams. ed (in 26/04/2010). The great famine: studies in Irish history, 1845-52 (http:/ / books. google. ie/ books?ei=tEvYS6rAEoj3-Ab4hdGQBg& ct=result& id=BJDtAAAAMAAJ& dq=Dunfanaghy+ workhouse+ edwards& q="Dunfanaghy+ workhouse+ "#search_anchor). Russell & Russell. pp. 311. ISBN 978-0-8462-1793-0. . [4] "The Gallery" (http:/ / www. discoverireland. ie/ Search-Results/ Details. aspx?touristItemID=1308). discoverireland.ie. 2009. . Retrieved 30 April 2010. [5] "Dunfanaghy Road station" (http:/ / www. railscot. co. uk/ Ireland/ Irish_railways. pdf). Railscot - Irish Railways. . Retrieved 2007-10-12. • Alistair Rowan (1979). The Buildings of Ireland: North West Ulster. Yale University Press. ISBN 0-300-09667-4. External links • New Lake bird life (http://www.birdlife.org/datazone/sites/index.html?action=SitHTMDetails.asp& sid=636&m=0) • Aircraft landings in Ireland 1939 - 46 (http://www.csn.ul.ie/~dan/war/crashes.htm) Dungloe 420 Dungloe an Clochán Liath Dungloe — Town — Location in Ireland Coordinates: 54°57′07″N 8°21′29″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Dáil Éireann Donegal South–West EU Parliament North–West Elevation 16 m (unknown operator: u'strong' ft) [1] Population (2006) • Total 1068 Dialing code 074, +000 353 74 Irish Grid Reference B766115 Website dungloe.info [2] [3] As this is a Gaeltacht town, the Irish An Clochán Liath is the only official name. Dungloe 421 An Clochán Liath (called Dungloe or Dunglow in English)[4] is a Gaeltacht town in County Donegal, Ireland. It is the main town in the Rosses and the largest in the Donegal Gaeltacht.[5] Dungloe developed as a town in the middle of the 18th Century, and now serves as the administrative and retail centre for the west of Donegal, and in particular the Rosses, with the only mainland secondary school for the area. Name There is a river at the bottom of the town and years ago the only crossing was over a grey granite slab lying in the riverbed, hence the Irish name of the town, an Clochán Liath, which means the grey stepping-stone.[5] The bridge was built in 1762. The name an Clochán Liath was formerly anglicised as Cloghanlea.[5] The name Dungloe or Dunglow is believed to come from the Irish Dún gCloiche.[5] This name came into common English usage in the later years of the 18th century when the monthly fair, formerly held at Dún gCloiche (five miles north of the nascent town) was transferred to an Clochán Liath. In time the name of the fair and that of the town were subsumed. Today, an Clochán Liath is the only officially recognised name of the town.[4] Dungloe Courthouse. Language Despite being within the Gaeltacht region, there are few native Irish speakers in Dungloe, and English is the everyday language of most of the locals.[6] Nevertheless, there are small Irish-speaking pockets outside the town and Irish is to be heard in the town.[6] Administration Dungloe is home to the Dungloe District Court, which covers the south-west area of County Donegal. There are a number of banks, a Garda station, and a credit union located on the main street. Also, there are pubs, convenience stores, supermarkets, cafes,and restaurants. The town is the current headquarters of the Rosses' indigenous supermarket chain, The Cope. Tourism Dungloe The town attracts many tourists every August when the Mary From Dungloe International Festival takes place. It was founded in the 1960s and it has been frequented by many special guests over the years including Daniel O’Donnell, Cliff Richard, Gay Byrne and Sharon Shannon. The picturesque Dungloe Bay and surrounding hills have proved very popular with visitors and have enabled Dungloe to sustain a healthy tourism industry. There is also a festival dedicated to the socialist writer Peadar O'Donnell in Dungloe each autumn. A little to the north of the town is the site of the ancient church of Templecrone. 422 Dungloe Main Street. Transport The town is serviced by a number of private bus companies, which provide a link to national Bus Éireann routes through Donegal Town, and to the north of the county and Derry. In 1903, the town was linked, through Dungloe railway station, to the Londonderry and Lough Swilly Railway. However, the station was closed on 3 June 1940 as part of a process that saw the closure of all railways in the county.[7] Popular culture Dungloe Roman Catholic Church. Dungloe is mentioned in Fox Broadcasting Company series Sons of Anarchy as the source of the motorcycle club's weapons from the True IRA, a fictional representation of the Real IRA. People • • • • • Alexander Campbell, American businessman Goats Don't Shave, Irish folk group Paddy "the Cope" Gallagher, businessman Pat the Cope Gallagher, MEP Peadar O'Donnell, republican Marxist* Dungloe References [1] "Census 2006 – Volume 1 – Population Classified by Area" (http:/ / www. cso. ie/ census/ documents/ census2006_volume_1_pop_classified_by_area. pdf) (PDF). Central Statistics Office Census 2006 Reports. Central Statistics Office Ireland. April 2007. . Retrieved 2011-06-19. [2] http:/ / getamap. ordnancesurvey. co. uk/ getamap/ frames. htm?mapAction=gaz& gazName=g& gazString=B766115 [3] http:/ / dungloe. info/ [4] Placenames (Ceantair Ghaeltachta) Order 2004 (http:/ / www. commissioner. ie/ downloads/ An_tOrdu_Logainmneacha_(Ceantair_Ghaeltachta)_2004. pdf) [5] Placenames Database of Ireland (http:/ / www. logainm. ie/ 14628. aspx) [6] Dungloe / An Clochán Liath (http:/ / www. dun-na-ngall. com/ dungloe. html) on www.dun-na-ngall.com [7] "Dungloe station" (http:/ / www. railscot. co. uk/ Ireland/ Irish_railways. pdf) (PDF). Railscot - Irish Railways. . Retrieved 2007-09-05. 423 Dunkineely 424 Dunkineely Dunkineely Dún Cionnaola — Town — Dunkineely Location in Ireland Coordinates: 54°37.919′N 8°21.641′W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Government • Dáil Éireann Donegal South–West • EU Parliament North–West Elevation 150 m (unknown operator: u'strong' ft) Population (2011) • Urban 375 Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC-1) Area code(s) 074, +000 353 74 Irish Grid Reference G711767 [1] Website www.dunkineelytown.com [1] Dunkineely (Irish: Dún Cionnaola, meaning "Kinealy's fort") is a small village in County Donegal, Ireland. It is situated 11 miles from the town of Donegal and 6 miles from Killybegs on the N56 National secondary road. It is a small single street village with a population of around 300 in its surroundings. There is a dun on the edge of the village from which Dunkineely derives its name. The village lies at the top of St John's Point, a narrow peninsula jutting seven miles into Donegal Bay, which boasts beautiful sceenary and is a world renowned diving site. Dunkineely lies at approximately 150m above sea level. Dunkineely is the larger of two villages in the parish of Killaghtee, the other being Bruckless, now the location of the R.C. parish church. Nearby is the ancient parish church of Killaghtee. In the old graveyard there is one of the oldest Celtic crosses in Ireland, the Killaghtee Cross. The population is a mix of Roman Catholic and Protestant (Methodist Dunkineely 425 and Church of Ireland). Employment in the area relies on seasonal fishing and mixed agriculture as well as service and light industry in the nearby towns of Killybegs and Donegal. Facilities 3 local industries in the village comprise of a fish processing factory, a net making factory and architectural design and fabrication factory. Services in Dunkineely include a shop, cafe, several garages, a fishing tackle shop/florist, auctioneers, 4 bars (Mac's Bar, Mac Laughlin's Bar, McGuire's Bar, McIntyre's Bar), a radio communications shop, 2 butchers and a hostel. There are several B&B's in the locality. Castle Murray House, a noted local restaurant, is located just 2 km outside the village on Saint Johns Point. Until recently, Dunkineely boasted seven bars but Dunkineely village. is now reduced to four to serve its population of 300 houses. McIntyre's bar hosts a weekly Irish traditional music session. There is also a National School, Garda Station, Community Centre, GAA pitch and soccer pitch. The local radio station is South West Donegal Community Radio 88.6 FM. Sport The local Gaelic Athletic Association club is named Naomh Ultan. The local football team is Dunkineely Celtic. Transport Dunkineely railway station opened on 18 August 1893, and closed on 1 January 1960.[2] Dunkineely lies on the main N56 road between Donegal Town and Killybegs. A regular bus service operates along this route. Festival Church at Beaugreen Glebe. Every year in the month of July or August the town hosts a 3 day weekend Summer Street Festival. Events over the years have included a parade through the town, soap box derby races, live bands, pub quizzes, sporting competitions, classic car show, wheelie bin races and digger and tractor driving competitions. The 2010 Dunkineely Summer Street Festival takes place between the 27–29 August. Dunkineely Famous people • Joseph Brennan, former TD and Ceann Comhairle References [1] http:/ / www. dunkineelytown. com [2] "Dunkineely station" (http:/ / www. railscot. co. uk/ Ireland/ Irish_railways. pdf) (PDF). Railscot - Irish Railways. . Retrieved 5 September 2007. External links • McGeehan Coaches (http://www.mcgeehancoaches.com/don_dub_nov7.htm) • Dunkineely town page (http://www.dunkineelytown.com) • Killaghtee parish (http://www.killaghtee.com/About Killaghtee.htm) 426 Fahan 427 Fahan Fahan Fathain — Town — Fahan Location in Ireland Coordinates: 55°05′20″N 7°28′42″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Population (2002) • Urban 338 Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC-1) Irish Grid Reference Fahan (Irish: Fathain, meaning "little green/field") (pronounced fawn) is a district of Inishowen, in County Donegal, Ireland, located five kilometres south of Buncrana. In Irish, Fahan is named after its patron saint, St. Mura, first abbot and patron saint of Fahan, an early Christian monastery. History The walled graveyard, located to the west of The Rectory, contains the grave of pioneering nurse Agnes Jones, the ruins of a 6th century monastery featuring a 7th century cross-slab of St. Mura, the ruins of 16th century monastery and 17th century church together with many interesting grave slabs bearing coats of arms.The monastery and village was sacked by Vikings in the 10th and 13th centuries,. Medieval mill wheels are built into both the graveyard wall and the wall on the opposite side of the road. Cecil Frances Alexander lived in the Old Rectory in the late 19th century. Her contemporary, Agnes Jones, trained with Florence Nightingale and nursed in the Crimean War,She was born in Fahan House. Edward Maginn, a 19th century bishop, served as a parish priest in Fahan. The church to the north of The Rectory contains an early 20th century stained-glass window by Evie Hone which depicts St. Elizabeth of Hungary.[1] Fahan 428 Transport • Fahan railway station which opened on 9th September 1864, closed for passenger traffic on 6th September 1948 and finally ceased on 10th August 1953.[2] St. Mura Cross Slab from the 7th century Old church from the 17th century The old pier at Fahan Beach References [1] "Fahan / Fathain" (http:/ / www. dun-na-ngall. com/ fahan. html). dun-na-ngall.com/. 2006. . Retrieved 9 August 2006. [2] "Fahan station" (http:/ / www. railscot. co. uk/ Ireland/ Irish_railways. pdf) (PDF). Railscot - Irish Railways. . Retrieved 2007-10-13. Falcarragh 429 Falcarragh an Fál Carrach — Town — The crossroads on Falcarragh Main Street an Fál Carrach Location in Ireland Coordinates: 55°08′11″N 8°06′18″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Government • Dáil Éireann Donegal South–West • EU Parliament North–West Population (2006) • Urban 842 Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC-1) Area code(s) 074, +000 353 74 Irish Grid Reference B952329 [1] Falcarragh 430 An Fál Carrach is the only official name. The anglicized spelling Falcarragh has no official status. An Fál Carrach[2] (anglicized as Falcarragh), sometimes called Na Crois Bhealaí ("the crossroads") is a small Gaeltacht town and townland in northwest County Donegal, Ireland. The settlement is in the old parish of Cloughaneely. Etymology The name Falcarragh (lit. An (the) Fál (Wall) Carrach (Stone), Stone Wall / Boundary) has been used since 1850, ascribed so by O' Donavan as he believed 'Na Crois Bhealaí', the Cross Roads, was too common in Ireland to allow distinction. Na Crois Bhealaí is still used by native speakers when referring to the town.On some maps it shows up as 'Crossroads' deriving from its Irish language name Na Croisbhealaí but older maps refer to it as Robinson's Town, but its now listed as An Fál Carrach. An Fál Carrach, the main commercial town between Letterkenny and Dungloe was known in former times both as Crossroads and as Robinson’s Town. An Fál Carrach, the official name, originally referred to a little hamlet south east of the present town, at the foot of Falcarragh hill - but gradually houses were built at the crossroads, mainly for the workers and trades people employed on the Olphert Estate in Ballyconnell. History The first recorded reference to Falcarragh appears in a report written by William Wilson, Raphoe in 1822. Wilson was the Protestant Bishop’s stewart responsible for the collection of tithes to support the Protestant clergy. He, apparently, received a hostile reception on arrival in Cloughaneely (parish) according to his account to the bishop: According to my intention I went to Cloughineely and on Monday about 12 o’clock arrived at a place called Falcarrow in your Lordship’s See (about five miles distant from Dunfanaghy) where I then, pursuant to advertisement, proposed holding the Court as I twice before had, but was immediately on my arrival surrounded by upwards of 150 to 300 men who had assembled merely for the purpose of preventing me from holding any Court and threatened my life if I would. Their measures I was obliged to comply with. Slater’s Directory of 1870 provides us with valuable information about Falcarragh and its surrounding area: Crossroads or Falcarragh, is a village, in the parish of Tullaghbegley, and partly of Raymunterdoney, barony of Kilmacrennan, situated on the summit of a small hill near to the coast; opposite here is the Island of Torrey, nine miles distant. The places of worship are the parish church and a Presbyterian meetinghouse. A dispensary and a school are the charitable institutions. Fairs are held on the last Thursday monthly. Population in 1861 was 231. Slater’s Directory of 1881 records that the population increased to 258 inhabitants in 1871 and also tells that there was a Protestant Episcopal Church in the town. We are given some information about the local post office situated at the crossroads. Thomas Browne was Postmaster at the time and “letters from all parts arrive at ten minutes past eleven morning, and are dispatched at one afternoon.” Falcarragh Landlords From 1622 to 1921, the Olpherts were the main landlords in the district, Sir John Olphert being the last Olphert landlord, who died in 1917. The tallest Celtic cross in Ireland is located near Falcarragh. Transport • Falcarragh railway station opened on 9 March 1903, closed for Erraroey Beach, Falcarragh. passenger traffic on 3 June 1940 and finally closed altogether on 6 January 1947.[3] The 1992 movie "The Railway Station Man" starring Donald Sutherland & Julie Christie was partly filmed at the station. References [1] http:/ / getamap. ordnancesurvey. co. uk/ getamap/ frames. htm?mapAction=gaz& gazName=g& gazString=B952329 [2] Placenames (Ceantair Ghaeltachta) Order 2004 (http:/ / www. commissioner. ie/ downloads/ An_tOrdu_Logainmneacha_(Ceantair_Ghaeltachta)_2004. pdf). As to the meaning of the name, see Deirdre and Laurence Flanagan, Irish Place Names, Gill & Macmillan, 2002. [3] "Falcarragh station" (http:/ / www. railscot. co. uk/ Ireland/ Irish_railways. pdf). Railscot - Irish Railways. . Retrieved 2007-10-13. Further reading Falcarragh, An Fál Carrach website (http://www.anfalcarrachlecheile.com) 431 Fintown 432 Fintown Baile na Finne — Village — Baile na Finne Location in Ireland Coordinates: 54°52′14″N 8°06′48″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Government • Dáil Éireann Donegal South–West Elevation 169 m (unknown operator: u'strong' ft) Population (upper est.) • Urban 100 • Rural 500 Irish Grid Reference Baile na Finne is the only official name. The English name Fintown has no official status. Baile na Finne[1] (English name: Fintown) is a small village and townland on the banks of Lough Finn in County Donegal, Ireland. It is within the Gaeltacht, an Irish-speaking area, in the west of the county. Overlooked by Aghla (589m, 1961 ft) and Screig Mountains, its main attraction is an Mhuc Dhubh, Donegal's only operational narrow gauge railway, the Cumann Traenach na Gaeltachta Láir, which runs along the length of Lough Finn.[2] The village was named after a mythological woman, Finngeal, who drowned in the lake after attempting to save her wounded brother Feargamhain.[3] Fintown 433 Gallery On entering the village The railway Fintown Railway Legend Fintown Fintown Lough Glenties External links • Fiach Arts [1] • Fintown Railway [4] References [1] [2] [3] [4] http:/ / www. commissioner. ie/ downloads/ An_tOrdu_Logainmneacha_(Ceantair_Ghaeltachta)_2004. pdf Irish Placenames Order 2004 http:/ / www. antraen. com/ index. php Fintown Railway website http:/ / www. dun-na-ngall. com/ fintown. html County Donegal on the Net http:/ / www. antraen. com/ Frosses 434 Frosses Frosses Na Frosa — Town — Frosses Location in Ireland Coordinates: 54°39′36″N 8°17′56″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Government • Dáil Éireann Donegal South–West • EU Parliament North–West Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC-1) Irish Grid Reference Website www.irishtourist.com/donegal/towns/frosses/ [1] Frosses (Irish: Na Frosa) is a small village in County Donegal, Ireland. It is situated in the south of the county on the R262 regional road and it lies 7 miles west of Donegal Town.[2] Due to the village's small size, a popular joke emerged that one side of the village didn't speak to the other, one side being the local graveyard.[3] The local Catholic church is St. Mary's, located on the main street.[4] Frosses 435 People • Mary Coughlan, former Tánaiste and ex-TD References [1] http:/ / www. irishtourist. com/ donegal/ towns/ frosses/ [2] http:/ / www. anoige. ie/ hostels/ blue-stack [3] http:/ / www. donegalpost. com/ 2009/ 02/ 25/ why-frosses-colm-closed-his-pub/ [4] http:/ / www. raphoediocese. com/ frosses. htm The village of Frosses in 2009. Glen, County Donegal Glen (Irish: An Gleann) is a small village in County Donegal, Ireland. The focus of the townlands of Glenmenagh and Glenineeny, it is within the parish of Mevagh, and the Barony of Kilmacrenan. The village is on the crossroads between the towns of Milford, Letterkenny, Creeslough, and Carrigart. The village once supported a schoolhouse, post office and shop, as well as historically a fair. Today however, one of the few businesses left is the historic local public house, originally a shebeen and dating from the 17th century. Glencolmcille 436 Glencolmcille Gleann Cholm Cille — District — Gleann Cholm Cille Location in Ireland Coordinates: 54°42′32″N 8°43′34″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Elevation 20 m (unknown operator: u'strong' ft) Population (2006) • Urban 724 Irish Grid Reference G529846 [1] Gleann Cholm Cille is the only official name. The anglicized spellings Glencolmcille and Glencolumbkille no longer have any official status. Gleann Cholm Cille (anglicized as Glencolmcille or Glencolumbkille)[2] is a coastal district in the southwest Gaeltacht of County Donegal, Ireland. While Gleann Cholm Cille is still an Irish-speaking community, English has been steadily replacing Irish as the main language, with only 34% of the people speaking Irish on a daily basis in 2002.[3] Cashel (Irish: An Caiseal) is the main village in the district. The name translates into English as "valley of Colm Cille". Saint Colm Cille, or Columba, is one of Ireland's three patron saints (along with Saint Patrick and Saint Brigid). Colm Cille and his followers lived in the valley for a time and the ruins of several of their churches can still be seen there. Glencolmcille 437 History Between 4000 and 3000 B.C., farming people settled in the area. Excellently preserved examples of their court tombs can be seen at Mainnéar na Mortlaidh and An Clochán Mór. Examples of the less-elaborate portal tombs, dating from about 2000 BC, can also be seen at Málainn Mhóir. The district was once famous as being the parish of Father James McDyer (1910–1987), who championed the rights of rural people and helped establish A view of Glencolmcille. community-based industries in the area. A parish council (Comhairle Paróiste Ghleann Cholm Cille) has been functioning in Glencolmcille since the 1930s, to look after the interests and needs of the residents of Glencolmcille. Members are elected to this body by the residents of the Glencolmcille church area; elections are held every three years. Culture Glencolmcille is home to well known Dublin-born artist Kenneth King, whose works depict naval and merchant shipping, coastline and lighthouses.[4] British composer Sir Arnold Bax made many extended visits there between 1904 and the early 1930s. Apparently, Bax composed much of his music and wrote many of his poems and stories while staying there. He describes the district and its villages, and the life of its inhabitants, in his autobiography Farewell My Youth. At one end of the little Glen Bay was a wilderness of tumbled black rocks, for some reason named Romantia (a particularly "gentle" – or fairy-haunted place, I was told in Dooey opposite), and upon this grim escarpment the breakers thundered and crashed, flinging up, as from a volcano, towering clouds of dazzling foam which would be hurled inland by the gale to put out the fires in the cottage hearths of Beefan and Garbhros. The savagery of the sea was at times nearly incredible. I have seen a continuous volume of foam sucked, as in a funnel, up the whole six-hundred-foot face of Glen Head, whilst with the wind north-west a like marvel would be visible on the opposite cliff. There were days when you had to lean hard up against the wind to keep your feet at all... Yet in that unearthly valley there always seemed to be a core of peace in the heart of the most ravening tempest. —Arnold Bax, Farewell My Youth Many natural beauty sites lie nearby, such as the Slieve League (Irish: Sliabh Liag) cliffs, The Silver Strand (Irish: An Tráigh Bhán) at Malin Beg (Irish: Málainn Bhig), and Glen Head (Irish: Cionn Ghlinne) itself. At the centre of one of the largest Gaeltacht areas, the district is well known as the home of Oideas Gael, an Irish-language learning institute established in 1984 to promote the Irish language and culture. The district also has a petrol station, grocer, post office, folk village (named after Father McDyer), woollen mill, hill walking and accommodation centre, restaurant, new "village cafe" and three pubs (often with Irish fiddle music). Films shot on location in Glencolmcille include The Railway Station Man, 1992, starring Julie Christie, Donald Sutherland and John Lynch.[5] Glencolmcille 438 Dr. Charles Inglis, first Bishop of Nova Scotia Charles Inglis was the son of a Church of Ireland rector of Glencolumbkille. After ordination, he served in New York at the down-town Trinity Church, and later had the distinction of being consecrated at Lambeth Palace as the first Bishop of Nova Scotia, and first Bishop in the British Empire overseas (1787). Bishop Inglis is remembered regularly in the Church of Ireland church at Glencolumbkille each August. Gallery Typical local cottage at the Folk Village Museum. Folk Village Museum historical cottages. Trabane Strand, Glencolumbkille. Footnotes [1] http:/ / getamap. ordnancesurvey. co. uk/ getamap/ frames. htm?mapAction=gaz& gazName=g& gazString=G529846 [2] Placenames (Ceantair Ghaeltachta) Order 2004 (http:/ / www. commissioner. ie/ downloads/ An_tOrdu_Logainmneacha_(Ceantair_Ghaeltachta)_2004. pdf). [3] Glencolmcille Parish Plan (http:/ / www. westbic. ie/ Glencolmcille-English. pdf). [4] Some of Kenneth King's paintings are on display in the National Maritime Museum of Ireland in Dún Laoghaire [5] Glencolmcille (http:/ / www. imdb. com/ title/ tt0105214/ ) at the Internet Movie Database References External links • • • • • Glencolmcille website (http://www.gleanncholmcille.ie) Glencolmcille Folk Village (http://www.glenfolkvillage.com) The Virtual Turas (http://www.voicesfromthedawn.com/?p=221) Church of Ireland Prayers (http://www.oremus.org/liturgy/ireland/witness/q3.html) Biography of Charles Inglis at the Dictionary of Canadian Biography Online (http://www.biographi.ca/ 009004-119.01-e.php?&id_nbr=2473) Glenties 439 Glenties Glenties Na Gleannta — Village — Glenties village, 2010. Glenties Location in Ireland Coordinates: 54°47′51″N 8°16′57″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Government • Dáil Éireann Donegal South–West • EU Parliament North–West Elevation 78 m (unknown operator: u'strong' ft) Population (2006) • Urban 811 Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC-1) Glenties 440 Irish Grid Reference G818944 [1] Glenties (Irish: Na Gleannta, meaning "the glens")[2] is a village in County Donegal, Ireland. It is situated where two glens meet, northwest of the Blue Stack Mountains, near the confluence of two rivers. Glenties is the largest centre of population in the parish of Iniskeel. Glenties has won the Irish Tidy Towns Competition competition five times in 1958, 1959,1960, 1962 and 1995 and has won a medal many other times. The current population of Glenties is 811.[3] History Evidence of early settlement in the area is given by the many dolmens, standing stones and earthen ringforts dating from the Bronze Age. The area became part of the baronies of Boylagh and Bannagh in 1609, which was granted to Scottish undertakers as part of the Ulster Plantation. Glenties was a regular stopping point on the road between the established towns of Ballybofey and Killybegs, and grew from this in the 17th and 18th centuries. The town was developed as a summer home for the Marquis of Conyngham in the 1820s, because of its good hunting and fishing areas. The court house and market house were built in 1843. The Bank of Ireland building was completed in 1880.[4] Famine in Glenties A workhouse was built during the Famine at the site of the current Comprehensive School in 1846, serving the greater Inniskeel area. A 40-bed Fever Hospital was later added to care for the sick and dying. The landlord, the Marquis of Conyngham, decided to halve the population of the town in 1847, faced by the rising costs of the workhouse. Only those who could show title to their land as rentpayers were allowed to remain. The rest were given an option of going to America on a ship provided or entering the Workhouse in Glenties. Over 40,000 people died or emigrated from Co. Donegal between the years 1841 and 1851.[4] Glenties main street. 20th century The railway was completed in 1895 from Ballybofey. In 1903 a local water scheme was established, to be replaced in 1925 by the current Lough Anna supply. In 1932 electricity was first generated locally in the town. Rural electrification came in the 1950s. Glenties R.I.C. barracks were attacked on numerous occasions during the War of Independence in 1920/1921. On 29 June 1921, a group of Black and Tans were ambushed on their way to Ardara at Kilraine by the insurgents, resulting in the death of a Constable Devine. Two Free State soldiers were killed at Lacklea in 1922 by IRA forces, during the Civil War. In January 1944 a British Sunderland Mark III flying boat crashed in the Croaghs area of the Bluestack Mountains, outside of Glenties, killing seven of its 12 man crew.[4] Glenties 441 In April 2006, IRA informer Denis Donaldson was shot dead by the Real IRA at a remote cottage near Derryloaghan, 8 km from Glenties. Bord na Móna Bord na Móna bought 1200 acres (unknown operator: u'strong' ha) of bog in 1937 to be drained and cut for peat. By 1943 a railway had been extended from Kilraine across the Owenea River to the bogs at Tullyard. Machine cutting commenced in 1946, utilising German made cutting machines. The company employed 250 men in peak season and peak production was 22,000 tons in 1965. Operations ceased in the late 1990s and the railways and stock were lifted in 2006.[4] Around Glenties Glenties is situated at the meeting of two glens, and two rivers; the Owenea and Stranaglough. One of its most striking buildings is its unusual church, St Connell's, which was built in 1974 to replace the old church. The building has a flat roof sloping to the ground at a sharp angle. The original bell from the first church is still used today in the newer church. St. Connell is the patron saint of the parish. Liam McCormack won a European Award for its design in 1974. Tourism Picture taken in Glenties The village has a reasonably large tourist trade and boasts a hotel (The Highlands) and a variety of lively pubs and the locally famous 'Limelight' night club which is one of the largest entertainment venues in the county. There are several guesthouses around the village. The majority of visitors come for the area's scenic beauty. Glenties 442 Patrick MacGill statue A memorial to the 'Navvy Poet', Patrick MacGill, who was born in Glenties, is located on the bridge over the river in the center of town. St. Connell's Museum St. Connell's Museum and Heritage Center has a good collection of local history artifacts, including some from the famine. The museum is named after St. Connell Caol, who founded a monastic settlement on Inishkeel Island in the 6th century. The museum also has a display about Cardinal Patrick O'Donnell, mementos from the filming of Dancing at Lughnasa, and an extensive display about the County Donegal Railways Joint Committee. It also has a reading room with a good collection of local historic records. Sport St. Connell's Museum The local Gaelic Athletic Association (GAA) club Naomh Conaill; field teams at all age levels playing gaelic football predominantly. Glenties in popular culture Glenties was the model for Brian Friel's fictional village of Ballybeg, where several of his works were set. His play Dancing at Lughnasa was set in Ballybeg and was made into a film in 1994 starring Meryl Streep. Transport Fintown Railway Legend Fintown Fintown Lough Glenties Glenties Glenties railway station was on a branch line of the County Donegal Railways Joint Committee, a narrow gauge railway system. The Glenties branch was the first part of the County Donegal Railways to be closed; the railway station (and the branch line) opened on 3 June 1895 and finally closed on 15 December 1947.[5] Bus transport is currently provided by Bus Éireann, operated by McGeehan's Coaches, which provides services to Letterkenny, Ballybofey, Dungloe, Ardara, Killybegs and Donegal Town.[6] Tidy Towns Glenties was the national winner of Ireland's Tidy Towns competition in 1958, 1959, 1960, 1962, and 1995. Other recent results include being a Gold Medal winner in 2004, 2005, and 2006 and a silver medal winner in 2003. Glenties received a Silver Medal in the European Entente Florale competition held in Gyor, Hungary in 2005. People • • • • Enda Bonner - policitian, football player Thomas F. Breslin - Colonel, victim of Bataan Death March Brian Friel - playwright Tom Gildea - politician • Patrick MacGill - the Navy Poet • Jim McGuinness - manager of Donegal Gaelic senior team • Patrick O'Donnell - Primate of All Ireland References [1] http:/ / getamap. ordnancesurvey. co. uk/ getamap/ frames. htm?mapAction=gaz& gazName=g& gazString=G818944 [2] was turned into a city in the 1930's. Placenames (Ceantair Ghaeltachta) Order 2004 (http:/ / www. commissioner. ie/ downloads/ An_tOrdu_Logainmneacha_(Ceantair_Ghaeltachta)_e2004. pdf) [3] http:/ / www. cso. ie/ census/ documents/ census2006_Table_7_and_12. pdf [4] Briody, Liam (1986). Glenties and Inniskeel - A Study of Glenties Town and Inniskeel Parish. Donegal Democrat Ltd.. [5] "Glenties station" (http:/ / www. railscot. co. uk/ Ireland/ Irish_railways. pdf). Railscot - Irish Railways. . Retrieved 2007-10-14. [6] "McGeehan's Coaches" (http:/ / www. mcgeehancoaches. com/ index. html). Timetables and Contact details. . Retrieved 2009-03-24. External links • • • • • • • • • Glenties.ie (http://www.glenties.ie/) Wikitravel - Glenties (http://wikitravel.org/en/Glenties) - Wikitravel Travel Guide to Glenties Fintown Railway (http://www.antraen.com/) Glenties Online (http://homepage.eircom.net/~glenties/) Glenties GAA (http://www.naomhconaill.ie) Dun-na-nGall.com's Glenties entry (http://www.dun-na-ngall.com/glent.html) St. Connell's Museum (http://www.dun-na-ngall.com/stcon.html) County Donegal website's Glenties entry (http://www.countydonegal.com/donegal_glenties.htm) The Tidy Towns of Ireland "Celebrating 50 years" (http://www.tidytowns.ie/u_documents/ The_Tidy_Towns_of_Ireland.pdf) 443 Greencastle, County Donegal 444 Greencastle, County Donegal Greencastle An Caisleán Nua — Town — Greencastle Location in Ireland Coordinates: 55°12′00″N 6°59′00″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Elevation 30 m (unknown operator: u'strong' ft) Population (2002) • Urban 570 • Rural 747 Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC-1) Irish Grid Reference C648397 [1] Greencastle. Greencastle (Irish: An Caisleán Nua), is a commercial fishing port located in the north of the scenic Inishowen Peninsula on the north coast of County Donegal, Ireland. Nowadays, given the decline in the fishing industry, it resembles more closely a 'typical' Donegal holiday village. It is located a few miles from Moville and is about 20 miles from Derry. Greencastle's name comes from the castle in the area, which, in turn, may have derived its name from the green freestone with which it was built. The castle, originally built by the Anglo-Normans, is also known as Newburgh Castle. Greencastle, County Donegal The first proper pier was built in 1813[2] and has been added to several times since. Today, as well as being a tie up for trawlers and salmon boats and the home of the Greencastle Fishermen's Co-Op, the Foyle Fishermen's Co-Op and Fresco Seafoods, the pier also has a very different "catch". Visitors disembark from the Magilligan-Greencastle ferry which was inaugurated in 2002.[3] The official website advertises the fact that this saves 78 km (or 49 miles) of driving, which would be through Derry. The Lough Foyle Ferry Company has also recently (2004) begun a Lough Swilly ferry service that runs between Buncrana and Rathmullan seasonally. The pier also contains a newly built pilot office to replace the decommissioned pilot office at Carrickarory Pier. 445 Greencastle Greencastle is also one of the disembarkation ports for cruise ships visiting Derry. Due to the tidal nature of the Foyle Estuary, it is sometimes too shallow for cruise ships to make their way to Lisahally docks in Derry. Stopping at Greencastle also saves 5 hours sailing round trip. However passengers are required to disembark using tenders as, unlike Lisahally docks, the Greencastle pier was not designed to allow a cruise ship to dock.[4] The castle at Greencastle has been linked with the castle in the background of the Derry crest.[5] Greencastle Pier at dusk The castle was built in 1305 to provide a base for Anglo-Norman power in the North West. This building was named "Northburg".[6] There is a more modern Martello Fort beside the Norman ruin. This was built by the British to stop Napoléon invading circa 1800. The National Fisheries College (NFC) is located in Greencastle. The NFC recently completed a €1.1 million extension funded under the INTERREG 11 Initiative, thus providing better facilities including a realistic simulator bridge deck. Greencastle is also home to the world famous Diver potato empire, winner of the 2010 Best Spud and Chip award. The late James Kealy is credited as vastly improving tourism to the village. Taking over his late father, William Kealys pub The Black Dog, he renovated and transformed it into The Kealy's Seafood Bar which has gone onto win many prestigious awards, most recently Georgina Campell's Seafood Restaurant of the Year 2010 was awarded to Tricia, James' widow and Head Chef. Greencastle, County Donegal Marina Protests Allegations that visiting yachts were turned away from the harbour have now been shown to be completely unfounded. A private company was seeking to establish a private Marina in the public harbour, forcing local fishermen out. A rumour was publicised that visiting yachts were turned away into a storm; Gardai investigations found these accusations to have no foundation, as confirmed by the harbour master. [7][8] References [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] http:/ / getamap. ordnancesurvey. co. uk/ getamap/ frames. htm?mapAction=gaz& gazName=g& gazString=C648397 Sean Beattie (2004). Donegal (Ireland in Old Photographs series). Sutton: Printing Press. ISBN 0-7509-3825-0. Donegal Library Information (http:/ / www. donegallibrary. ie/ memory/ places. htm) "Bad weather scuppers liner visit" (http:/ / news. bbc. co. uk/ 1/ hi/ northern_ireland/ foyle_and_west/ 8231551. stm). BBC News. 2009-09-02. . Retrieved 2010-05-04. British Civic Heraldry - Derry (http:/ / www. ngw. nl/ int/ gbr/ d/ derry. htm) Retrieved 2007-09-29. Foyle Ferries Info (http:/ / www. merseyshipping. co. uk/ photofeatures/ shipco/ foyleferries/ foyleferries. htm) (http:/ / www. highlandradio. com/ 2011/ 06/ 09/ no-truth-that-greencastle-inshore-fishermen-turned-away-yachts-in-stormy-conditions) Irish Times 20 May 2011 (http:/ / www. irishtimes. com/ newspaper/ ireland/ 2011/ 0520/ 1224297354315. html) External links • • • • • • Greencastle Fort Information (http://www.visitinishowen.com/scenic tour files/greencastlepg.html) History of Greencastle church (http://www.movillerecords.com/history8.htm) Greencastle golf club (http://www.irishgolfcourses.co.uk/north/greencastle.php) Greencastle - Magilligan Ferry (http://www.loughfoyleferry.com/) Moville Records - genealogy information for the Greencastle area (http://www.movillerecords.com/) Please join petition to save Lough Foyle Ferry :Funding issues (http://saveloughfoyleferry.com/) Website Now Offline having seen the ferry receive support from both local Governments in Jan 2010, Thankyou to those who helped and signed petition. Signed - Cahir O'Doherty - creator of website • - Greencastle Holiday rentals (http://www.greencastle.eu) • / Kealy's Seafood Bar (http://www.ireland-guide.com/establishment/kealys_seafood_bar.3361.html) 446 Gweedore 447 Gweedore Gaoth Dobhair Gweedore — Parish — An aerial view of Gweedore, with Mount Errigal and Magheraclogher beach. Gaoth Dobhair Location in Ireland Coordinates: 55°05′27″N 8°14′08″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Government • Dáil Éireann Donegal South–West • EU Parliament North–West Population (2002) • Total 4,065 Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC-1) Area code(s) 074 95, +000 353 74 95 Irish Grid Reference B847228 [1] Gweedore 448 Website [www.gweedore.net www.gweedore.net] Gaoth Dobhair is the only official name. The anglicized spelling Gweedore has no official status. Gweedore is the commonly used Anglicisation of Gaoth Dobhair, the official name[1] of an Irish-speaking parish located on the Atlantic coast of County Donegal, Ireland. Gweedore stretches some 16 miles from Meenaclady (Mín an Chladaigh: where Anglicised placenames are used in this article, see below for official names) in the north to Crolly in the south and around 9 miles from Dunlewey in the east to Magheraclogher in the west, and is one of Europe's most densely populated rural areas.[2][3] It is the largest Irish-speaking parish in Ireland with a population of around 4,065,[4] and is also the home of the northwest regional studios of the Irish-language radio service RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta,[5] as well as an external campus of National University of Ireland, Galway.[6] Gweedore includes the villages Bunbeg, Derrybeg, Dunlewey, Crolly and Brinalack, and surrounding rural areas,[7] and lies below Donegal's highest peak, Errigal.[8] Gweedore is known for being a cradle of Irish culture,[9] with old Irish customs, traditional music, theatre, Gaelic games and the Irish language playing a central and pivotal role in the lives of the local people. This, along with its scenery and many beaches, has made the area a popular tourist destination, especially with visitors from Northern Ireland.[10] Gweedore is situated between Cloughaneely and the Rosses, collectively known locally as "the three parishes": with 16,000 Irish speakers, they form a social and cultural region distinct from the rest of the county, with Gweedore serving as the main centre for socialising and industry.[11][12] Etymology Gweedore is the anglicisation of the original and official Irish name Gaoth Dobhair (Irish pronunciation: [gee-dore]). Gaoth refers to an inlet of the sea at the mouth of the Crolly River, known as An Ghaoth. It is the boundary between Gweedore to the north and The Rosses to the south. Dobhar is an old Irish word for water. Therefore, Gaoth Dobhair translates as "the aqueous estuary".[13] The name Gweedore or Gaoth Dobhair refers to the Catholic parish of the same name, not to any one village or town. The villages of Bunbeg, Derrybeg, Dunlewey and others are collectively known as Gweedore. Locals consider themselves to be from Gweedore, only citing Derrybeg, Bunbeg etc. as mere postal addresses.[14] Language The predominantly spoken language of the district is Irish, but English can be heard and understood as well. All schools, religious services and advertisements are through Irish.[15] Hundreds of students from all over Ireland attend a summer school at Coláiste Cholmcille (Columcille's College) in order to further their knowledge and understanding of the Irish language.[16] This is a Gaeltacht area, where the Irish language is the first spoken, providing an unbroken link with millennia of Irish history and culture. Gweedore 449 Since most of the inhabitants of the village are bilingual, it is common to hear English vocabulary used within an Irish sentence and vice versa. A rich subset of unique vocabulary and phrases has arisen from this bilingualism and owing to this, the village has attracted some curious interest from both lexicographers and etymologists in the past. For example, the Irish suffix -ailte or -eáilte is used to form a Gaelicised version of English verbs, as in wreckailte - tired. [Generally used in the context of an equivalent Irish word either not existing or rendering the sentence form incorrect.][17] A view of Gweedore from Bloody Foreland. History The Ulster Plantation in 1609 added a twist to the fate of the parish. Irish-speaking families who were driven from their fertile lands in the Lagan and the surrounding areas made their way to the poor boglands of west Donegal. Some of them made it as far as Gweedore and could go no further west. Around the same time, English and Scottish settlers began to arrive, when this uncharted territory was converted to baronies. It appears the parish was very sparsely populated up until the 17th century. The first people to arrive lived on the islands or by the shore in clusters, pockets of houses built close together and in each other's shade. Magheragallon Cemetery, Derrybeg. Up until the early 19th century the parish was only lightly populated and it seems the people had an amicable relationship with the landowners.[18] The standard of life was to deteriorate with the arrival of new landlords in the 19th century, in particular George Hill (1801–1879) and his son Arthur. The people of the parish led by Fr James McFadden (Irish: Séamus Mac Pháidín), the parish priest in 1875-1901, challenged the landlords with the founding of the Land League and the Plan of Campaign. The killing by parishioners of District An aerial view of Gweedore. Inspector William Martin (locally known as An Mháirtínigh) outside the local church, Teach Phobail Mhuire, in Derrybeg on Sunday 3 February 1889, while trying to arrest Fr McFadden with a drawn sword, was the climax of the Land War in Gweedore.[19] The case was recalled in the 1928 memoirs of Tim Healy, who defended some of the parishioners.[20] An Irish-American journalist, W.H. Hurlbert, also investigated the landlord-tenant dispute in Gweedore in minute detail in his book Ireland under Coercion, published in 1888.[21] Gweedore 450 Many books have been published in Irish, and several in English, detailing Gweedore's rich history. One of the most prolific of local historians was Cáit Nic Giolla Bhríde.[22] Freak storm On the afternoon of Tuesday, 23 June 2009, a severe thunderstorm struck Gweedore. It was centred on the adjoining villages of Bunbeg and Derrybeg, and lasted for several hours causing two rivers to burst their banks, flooding houses, shops and factories, ripping up roads and destroying bridges. Lightning which lasted for two hours damaged power lines and caused a major breakdown of mobile phone signals, causing people trapped by the floods to be unable to communicate. Up to 20 houses were cut off from the outside world after three access bridges were carried away by the swollen rivers. [23][24] Described as the worst storm 'in living memory', it was also the most severe since 1880 when five people drowned in Derrybeg. Owing to the highly localised nature of the storm the areas of maximum rainfall missed the network of rain gauges but the Irish Meteorological Service estimated that between 2pm and 6pm up to 60mm of rain fell at the core.[24][25] Economy In the 1980s and 1990s, Gweedore had a thriving factory industry, where up to 20 large companies were established producing rubber, carpets, body toning equipment and cleaning agents. However, by 2001 most of these companies had closed due to competition from Eastern Europe. Up to 4,000 jobs were lost, and this had a serious economic and social effect on Gweedore and surrounding areas.[26] The factory in the townland of Crolly has been manufacturing porcelain dolls since 1939 under the name Crolly Dolls.[27] In 2003, the estate was renamed Páirc Ghnó Ghaoth Dobhair (Gweedore Business Park) and the Gaeltacht body, Údarás na Gaeltachta, started a campaign to try to entice businesses to Gweedore in hope of reviving the local economy. A Scottish company opened a call centre on the estate, but this subsequently closed. Other businesses include a number supermarkets, convenience stores, beauticians, hairdressers, contractors, garages, pharmacists, pubs, cafes, and six well-established hotels: Ostan Gweedore, Seaview Hotel, Derrybeg Hotel, Teach Jack, An Chúirt Hotel and Foreland Heights. The main R257 road which runs right through Gweedore, seen here in Derrybeg. Gweedore 451 Education Primary level All five primary schools in the area are Irish-speaking schools. Children are not taught English until higher infants level (5–6 years old). • Scoil Chonaill, Bunbeg (An Bun Beag) • Scoil Mhuire, Derrybeg (Doirí Beaga) • Scoil Phádraig, Dore (Dobhar) • Scoil Mhín an Chladaigh, Meenaclady • Scoil Adhamhnáin, Lunniagh (Luinneach) Áislann Ghaoth Dobhair (opened in 2011) is a state of the art building which houses the local library, play school and an exhibition gallery. Secondary level The only community school (post primary) is Pobalscoil Ghaoth Dobhair, established in Lunniagh in 1977.[28] As with the local primary schools, all students are educated through the medium of Irish and most sit their public examinations in Irish. Third level In 2004, National University of Ireland, Galway expanded to Gweedore when it opened Acadamh na hOllscolaíochta Gaeilge,[29] providing third level education through the medium of the Irish language to over 80 students every year. Several diplomas are available as well as a new bachelor degree in business studies. Physical features Gweedore is renowned for its distinct physical features. Probably the most recognisable feature is Errigal, the tallest mountain in County Donegal,[8] which overshadows the picturesque Dunlewey Lough. It is surrounded by the deep glens and lakes of the Poisoned Glen, and further on, Glenveagh national park and castle, the largest national park in Ireland.[30] Another landmark is 'Bád Eddie' (Eddie's Boat), Cara Na Mara("Friend of the Sea"), a shipwreck which has been situated on Magherclogher beach since the early 70s where it had run ashore due to rough seas.[31] The rugged Gweedore coast, shown here in Bloody Foreland. The Gweedore coastline consists of long sandy beaches and rugged cliffs. Also, off the Gweedore coastlines are many small islands, including Gola,[32] and Tory.[33] In the background a series of mountains, glens and bogs which have combined with the bracing weather to keep this part of the world relatively secluded. Gweedore Transport Gweedore railway station, opened on 9 March 1903, closed for passenger traffic on 3 June 1940 and finally closed altogether on 6 January 1947. The chief railway engineer was Taggart Aston, from Belfast. He was responsible for the design and construction of many of the bridges on the Letterkenny to Burtonport Extension narrow gauge railway (L&BER), a company jointly owned by the State and the Londonderry and Lough Swilly Railway (L&LSR).[34] Coaches that operate from Gweedore include Collins Coaches Donegal to Glasgow, Feda Ó Dónaill,[35] Coyle's Coaches,[36] John McGinley,[37] Patrick Gallagher Coaches,[38] Crónán Mac Pháidín private hire coaches,[39] and a bus route serving the local airport.[40] For many years the Lough Swilly Railway Company provided a bus service for the area, which transported people to places such as Letterkenny and other surrounding parishes.[41] Sport Sports played locally include Gaelic football, soccer and golf. Gaelic games The local Gaelic Athletic Association The Gaoth Dobhair GAA clubhouse and grounds with Gweedore and Mount Errigal seen in the background. club, CLG Ghaoth Dobhair, is located in Machaire Gathlán and provides facilities for all GAA sports. The Gaoth Dobhair senior team is the most successful club in the Donegal Senior Football Championship and Comórtas Peile na Gaeltachta. Hurling was never a popular sport in Gweedore, with the exception of a briefly successful minor team in the late 1990s.[42] Golf Gailf Chumann Ghaoth Dobhair, the local golf club, is also situated in Machaire Gathlán. The 9-hole course hugs the picturesque north-west coast and holds several high-profile tournaments throughout the year, most notably, 'The Clannad Classic', sponsored by the world-renowned local folk band. Association football Soccer clubs active in the area include Gweedore Celtic,[43] Gweedore United, Glenea United and Dunlewey Celtic. All teams take part in both county and national competitions. Scottish soccer player Paddy Crerand's mother hailed from Gweedore. Still a regular visitor to the area, Crerand broadcast an episode of his MUTV show The Paddy Crerand Show live from the Ostan Gweedore hotel in March 2012.[44] Aiden McGeady's paternal grandparents also hail from Gweedore and he spent many of his summer holidays in the parish.[45][46] 452 Gweedore 453 Currach racing Cumann na gCurrach, based at Machaire Gathlán, is a voluntary group that organises currach races and takes part in numerous races all over the country.[47] Arts and culture Music Gweedore is famed for its traditional Irish music scene, which is prevalent in local taverns, especially at Hiúdaí Beag's Tavern in Bunbeg.[48] Gweedore has produced a number of well-known musicians. Clannad were Panoramic view of Magheraclogher beach and Gweedore Bay, also the site of the famous formed in 1972, and have since gone shipwreck, the Cara Na Mara (Friend of the Sea) on the tidal sandbanks. The boat, best on to sell over 15 million records. Lead known as 'Bád Eddie' (Eddie's Boat), ran ashore due to rough seas in the early 1970s. singer Moya Brennan has also enjoyed a successful solo career, providing musical scores for several Hollywood films. Altan (initially Ceoltóirí Altan),[49] another highly successful local band, is led by Coshclady fiddler Mairéad Ní Mhaonaigh. Gweedore's most successful musician is Enya, born as Eithne Ní Bhraonáin;[50] she first appeared on stage in Amharclann Ghaoth Dobhair as a member of Clannad, before going on to become one of the world's biggest-selling artists, with sales exceeding 80 million.[51] Other local singers include Aoife Ní Fhearraigh,[52] Brídín Brennan,[53] Na Casaidigh,[54] Proinsias Ó Maonaigh,[55] Gearóidín Breathnach, Seamus McGee[56] and Maria McCool.[57] The well-known 1970s group Skara Brae also had strong links with the district. There are two active choirs in the area. Cór Mhuire Doirí Beaga, led by Baba Brennan and Eileen Nic Suibhne[58] and Cór Thaobh 'a Leithid, led by Doimnic Mac Giolla Bhríde.[59] Both have recorded successful albums. The song "Gleanntáin Ghlas' Ghaoth Dobhair" was written by local musician Francie Mooney, expressing an exile's final farewell to the green valleys of Gweedore. It has become a modern Irish classic and it has been covered by the likes of Clannad, Paul Brady, Dáithí Sproule, The Johnstons and most notably by Altan. Other well-known songs to have come from the area are "Trasna na dTonnta" and "Báidín Fheilimí". Festivals The popular Frankie Kennedy Winter Music School takes part in Gweedore every new year in memory of the famous Belfast musician who was married to Mairéad Ní Mhaonaigh, until he died of cancer in 1994.[60] Several attempts have been made recently to revive festivals in the summer months, including Féile Earthcore, Loinneog Lúnasa and Féile Ceoil Ghaoth Dobhair. Gweedore holds one of the largest St. Patrick's Day parades in County Donegal. Gweedore Theatre Gweedore has a rich history of theatre and drama productions. The local theatre Amharclann Ghaoth Dobhair was constructed in 1961. A local theatre group known as Aisteoirí Ghaoth Dobhair ('actors of Gweedore') was established in 1932.[61] Their first production was called In Aimsir an Mháirtínigh, an original play by Eoghan Mac Giolla Bhríde which was staged in the parish hall in Derrybeg.[62] Their plays and pantomimes, which were all staged in Irish, became a staple of Gaeltacht social life, drawing audiences from as far as Belfast and they performed throughout Ireland and Scotland. Members of the theatre group have gone on to create TV shows including CU Burn (Seán Mac Fhionnghaile), and have appeared on Ros na Rún (Gavin Ó Fearraigh).[63] Many of Gweedore's musicians were associated with the group.[64] Aisteoirí Ghaoth Dobhair are still active and performed shows at An Grianán Theatre in Letterkenny as part of the Earagail Arts Festival in 2010 and 2011.[65] Art Gweedore is home to two art galleries which house work by some of the area's best known painters. An Clachán claims to be the largest art gallery in Donegal, whilst An Gailearaí at Áislann Ghaoth Dobhair has staged exhibitions based on the work of the world-renowned Derek Hill.[66] Religion The Catholic parish of Gweedore has four churches: Teach Pobal Mhuire (St Mary's) in Derrybeg (built in 1972, after the previous 'old chapel' had flooded on many occasions),[24] Teach Pobail an Chroí Naofa (Sacred Heart) in Dunlewey (built in 1893), Teach Pobail Naomh Pádraig (St Patrick's) in Meenaweel (built in 1938) and Séipéal Cholmcille (St Columba's) in Bloody Foreland (built in 1933). The only Protestant chapel in Gweedore is St Patrick's Church of Ireland, in Bunbeg. Media Radio The regional studios of the Irish language radio station RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta are in the townland of Derrybeg. Two radio shows are broadcast from Gweedore each day, as well as regional news every hour. Barrscéalta hosted by Áine Ní Chuireáin is a chat-based show dealing with current affairs and local issues. Rónán Beo is a two hour-long magazine show hosted by Rónán Mac Aodha Bhuí which usually consists of musical interludes and light-hearted banter with local characters. Print Goitse, the only local newspaper currently in circulation, is an Irish-language weekly. There are also several newsletters which serve the Gweedore area, including the weekly Seacht. Place names in Gweedore Because Gweedore is in the Gaeltacht and partly due to the provisions of the Official Languages Act 2003, only the original Irish versions of placenames have any legal status, and these are used on road signage. However Anglicised versions were created for most placenames and are still in informal use in English. 454 Gweedore 455 Alphabetical listing • An tArd Donn (Arduns) • Ard na gCeapairí (Ardnagappery) • Baile an Droichid (Ballindrait) • An Baile Láir (Middletown) • An Bun Beag (Bunbeg) • Bun an Inbhir (Bunaninver) • Bun an Leaca (Brinalack or Brinaleck) A view of Inishinny island. • An Charraic (Carrick) • Carraig an tSeascain (Carrickataskin) • Cnoc an Stolaire (Knockastolar) • Cnoc Fola (Bloody Foreland) • Coitín or An Choiteann (Cotteen) • Croichshlí or Croithlí (Crolly) • Dobhar (Dore) • Na Doirí Beaga or Doire Beag (Derrybeg) Mount Errigal is one of Gweedore's most significant physical features. • Dún Lúiche (Dunlewey) • Glaise Chú (Glasserchoo) • Glaiseach or An Ghlaisigh (Glassagh) • Gleann Tornáin (Glentornan) • Gleann Ualach (Glenhola) • Luinneach (Lunniagh) • Machaire Chlochair (Magheraclogher) • Machaire Gathlán (Magheragallon or Magheragallen) • Mín an Chladaigh (Meenacladdy) • Mín an Iolair (Meenaniller) • Mín na Cuinge (Meenacuing) The Poison Glen, situated in the east of Gweedore, near the village of Dunlewey. • Mín na Leice (Meenaleck) • Mín Uí Bhaoill (Meenaweel) • Port Uí Chuireáin (Curransport) • Seascann Beag (Sheskinbeg) • An Sloitheán (Sleghan) • Srath na Corcra (Stranacorkra) • An Tor (Torr) A view of Gweedore. Gweedore 456 Islands • Gabhla (Gola) • Inis Meáin (Inishmen) • Inis Oirthear (Inishirhir) • Inis Sionnaigh (Inishinny) • Umthoinn(Umpin ) • Toraigh (Tory), although not directly situated off the coast of Gweedore, the main ferry crossings are from the area.[67] Sheep grazing along a road in Meenaclady, a regular sight in Gweedore. Notable people from Gweedore • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • Aoife Ní Fhearraigh, singer Breandán de Gallaí, former lead dancer with Riverdance Bríd Rodgers, SDLP politician Clannad, folk and New Age band Cormac Breslin, former T.D. and Ceann Comhairle Dinny McGinley, Fine Gael T.D. and Minister of State Enya, musician and singer Francie Mooney, musician James Duffy, recipient of the Victoria Cross John McCole, soccer player Mairéad Ní Mhaonaigh, musician and singer Moya Brennan, musician and singer Na Casaidigh, traditional Irish band Patrick O'Donnell, Irish Republican Pearse Doherty, Sinn Féin T.D. Seán Mac Fhionnghaile, actor Gavin Ó Fearraigh, actor/model Tarlach Mac Suibhne, musician Vincent Coll, prohibition-era gangster References [1] Placenames (Ceantair Ghaeltachta) Order 2004 (http:/ / www. commissioner. ie/ downloads/ An_tOrdu_Logainmneacha_(Ceantair_Ghaeltachta)_2004. pdf) p154 (of 155) [2] http:/ / www. donegaldirect. ie/ ws_town_details. aspx?Town=Gweedore+ (Gaoth+ Dobhair) [3] http:/ / www. goireland. com/ donegal/ gweedore. htm [4] http:/ / travel. timesonline. co. uk/ tol/ life_and_style/ travel/ destinations/ ireland/ article2544786. ece A Lost Weekend in Donegal [5] "Stair RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta" (http:/ / www. rte. ie/ rnag/ stair_eng. html). RTÉ News. . [6] http:/ / www. donegalcottageholidays. com/ towns/ holiday-cottage-kincasslagh. php [7] Logainmneacha Ghaoth Dobhair, Tír Chonaill, Éire (http:/ / www. gaothdobhair. com/ ) [8] Gweedore and Mount Errigal (http:/ / www. libraryireland. com/ IrishPictures/ VIII-Errigal. php) [9] http:/ / www. gweedore. net/ ?p=57 [10] http:/ / www. irishabroad. com/ Travel/ Features/ gweedore. asp [11] http:/ / www. donegaldemocrat. ie/ news/ cloughaneely_1_1986720 [12] . http:/ / www. letterkennypost. com/ 2007/ 05/ page/ 2/ . Gweedore [13] Logainmneacha Ghaoth Dobhair (http:/ / www. gaothdobhair. com/ gaothdobhair. htm) [14] www.real-ireland.com (http:/ / www. real-ireland. com/ page9-donegal) [15] An Chrannóg - Lárionad Gaeilge (http:/ / www. crannog. ie/ gaothbear. htm) [16] Coláiste Cholmcille website (http:/ / www. colaistecholmcille. com/ ) [17] http:/ / www. jstor. org/ pss/ 2798880 [18] Gweedore Donegal (http:/ / freepages. genealogy. rootsweb. com/ ~donegal/ gweedoreproject. htm) [19] History of Gweedore, Chapter One (http:/ / freepages. genealogy. rootsweb. com/ ~donegal/ chapter_one. htm) [20] Healy memoirs online, chapter 22 (http:/ / www. chaptersofdublin. com/ books/ THealy/ healy22. htm) [21] Hurlbert W vol.1, pp.66-122 online text (http:/ / www. gutenberg. org/ files/ 14510/ 14510-h/ 14510-h. htm) [22] Coiscéim 1996 (http:/ / coisceim. ie/ 1996. html) [23] "Horror storms flood west Donegal" (http:/ / www. belfasttelegraph. co. uk/ news/ local-national/ horror-storms-flood-west-donegal-14359110. html) [24] Donegal Democrat report on flash flood in Gweedore, 24 June 2009 (http:/ / www. donegaldemocrat. ie/ donegalnews/ Cleanup-gets-underway-in-Gweedore. 5397213. jp) [25] Met Service report on the flood (http:/ / www. met. ie/ news/ display. asp?ID=19) [26] "Downturn forces Donegal factory cutbacks" (http:/ / www. rte. ie/ news/ 2001/ 0928/ jobs-business. html). RTÉ News. 28 September 2001. . [27] Crolly Dolls history (http:/ / www. crollydolls. com/ English/ history. htm?UID=69638259) [28] www.gaothdobhair.com - Fáilte go Pobalscoil Ghaoth Dobhair (http:/ / www. gaothdobhair. com/ modules. php?name=News& file=article& sid=99) [29] Acadamh na hOllscolaíochta Gaeilge website (http:/ / www. acadamh. ie/ ionaid/ gaoth_dobhair. html) [30] Visitor guide on Frommers.com (http:/ / www. frommers. com/ destinations/ ireland/ 0226023282. html) [31] rPhotosOnline.com :: Gweedore, Ireland, July 2005 :: Img_0201 (http:/ / www. rphotosonline. com/ album215/ Img_0201) [32] Gola Island (http:/ / irishislands. info/ dlgola. html) [33] Oileán Thoraí / Tory Island - nine miles off the Donegal coast (http:/ / www. oileanthorai. com/ ) [34] "Gweedore station" (http:/ / www. railscot. co. uk/ Ireland/ Irish_railways. pdf) (PDF). Railscot - Irish Railways. . Retrieved 2007-10-15. [35] Feda O'Donnell Coaches (http:/ / www. fedaodonnell. com/ / ) [36] Coyle's Coaches (http:/ / homepage. tinet. ie/ ~martincoyle/ index. html) [37] John McGinley Coaches (http:/ / www. johnmcginley. com/ ) [38] Patrick Gallagher Coaches (http:/ / www. gallagherscoaches. com/ ) [39] Crónán Mac Pháidín coaches (http:/ / www. gweedore. net/ ?page_id=170) [40] Donegal Airport Bus (http:/ / www. aerbhus. com/ / ) [41] Lough Swilly buses (http:/ / home. clara. net/ sjp/ nibus/ lswilly. htm) [42] Gaoth Dobhair GAA club (http:/ / www. clgghaothdobhair. com/ CLG. asp?teanga=bearla) [43] Gweedore Celtic Football Club (http:/ / www. gweedoreceltic. com/ index. cfm) [44] Donegal Democrat report on Crerand visit (http:/ / www. donegaldemocrat. ie/ sport/ local-sport/ paddy-crerand-mutv-show-to-go-live-from-ostan-gweedore-on-st-patrick-s-weekend-1-3549339) [45] Gray, Sadie (1 May 2005). "The Big Interview Aiden McGeady" (http:/ / www. timesonline. co. uk/ tol/ sport/ football/ article387301. ece). The Times (London). . Retrieved 4 May 2010. [46] Donegal Democrat report on McGeady visit (http:/ / www. donegaldemocrat. ie/ news/ local/ celtic-star-to-open-voodoo-gaoth-dobhair-1-1985900) [47] Donegal Democrat report on currach racing (http:/ / www. donegaldemocrat. ie/ news/ local/ curragh_racing_in_gaoth_dobhair_1_2005186) [48] "MC Muppet is a rapper from Connemara whose lyrics are very sexual in content. The Irish language is a very poetic language" (http:/ / www. irishtimes. com/ newspaper/ magazine/ 2010/ 0313/ 1224265920130. html). The Irish Times. 3 March 2010. . [49] "Altan" on www.musicianguide.com (http:/ / www. musicianguide. com/ biographies/ 1608003766/ Altan. html) [50] Enya biography (http:/ / shopping. yahoo. com/ p:Enya:1927003569:page=biography) [51] http:/ / wordpress. hotpress. com/ themusicshow/ 2009/ 09/ 01/ nicky-ryan/ [52] Aoife Ní Fhearraigh website (http:/ / www. aoife. ie/ ) [53] Brídín Brennan website (http:/ / www. bridinbrennan. com/ about_bridin/ index. html) [54] The Cassidys website (http:/ / www. thecassidys. com/ flash/ start. html) [55] Report of Proinsias Ó Maonaigh's election as president of [[Oireachtas na Gaeilge (http:/ / beo. ie/ index. php?page=archive_content& archive_id=1184)]] [56] Seamus McGee website (http:/ / www. seamusmcgee. com/ home. htm) [57] Dún na nGall.com - Gaoth Dobhair/Gweedore (http:/ / www. dun-na-ngall. com/ gweedore. html) [58] Moya Brennan website (http:/ / www. moyabrennan. com/ archives. php?newsid=54) [59] Dún-na-ngall.com News June/July 2006 (http:/ / dun-na-ngall. com/ nw71. html) [60] Frankie Kennedy Winter School (http:/ / www. frankiekennedy. com/ ) [61] Donegal Democrat report on theatre (http:/ / www. donegaldemocrat. ie/ news/ local/ aisteoir_237_ghaoth_dobhair_to_bring_aint_237_n_sh_233_arlais_to_an_grian_225_n_1_2005752) [62] http:/ / www. irishplayography. com/ search/ company. aspx?la=en& companyID=406 457 Gweedore [63] [64] [65] [66] [67] http:/ / www. modelmayhem. com/ 2179751 http:/ / books. google. com/ books/ about/ Irish_Folk_Harpists. html?id=eiYEcAAACAAJ http:/ / www. culturefox. ie/ event/ aisteoiri-ghaoth-dobhair/ 1704. aspx An Clachán gallery (http:/ / www. gweedorecourthotel. com/ about/ an-clachan-gift-gallery) Tory Island Ferry (http:/ / www. toryislandferry. com/ ) External links • - DiscoverGweedore.ie. Official website for Gweedore by the Gweedore Tourist & Traders Community group (http://www.DiscoverGweedore.ie) • Gweedore.net - Your Guide to Gaoth Dobhair ... The Heart and Soul of Donegal (http://www.gweedore.net) • County Donegal.net & Dún na nGall.com - Gaoth Dobhair/Gweedore (http://www.dun-na-ngall.com/ gweedore.html) 458 Inver 459 Inver Inver Inbhear — Town — Inver Location in Ireland Coordinates: 54°39′36″N 8°17′56″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC-1) Irish Grid Reference Website [www.inver.ie www.inver.ie] Inver (Irish: Inbhear, meaning "estuary") is a village in County Donegal, Ireland. It lies on the N56 National secondary road mid-way between Killybegs to the west and Donegal Town to the east. Inver has an excellent football pitch and a club called Eany Celtic. There are two churches, two shops (Spar and Cassidy's), two primary schools and of course two pubs, the Milltown and the Rising Tide. Inver Grove Heights, Minnesota may be named after Inver.[1] Transport • Inver railway station opened on 18 August 1893 and finally closed on 1 January 1960.[2] Website Inver and Inver beach. We have launched a website for Inver Community. www.inver.ie [3] Inver 460 References [1] "About us" (http:/ / www. ci. inver-grove-heights. mn. us/ index. asp?nid=195). City of Inver Grove Heights, Minnesota. . Retrieved 2008-09-15. "From 1858 until 1880, hundreds of settlers were attracted to the township that was named after an Irish fishing village, "Inver" and commemorating the homeland of the German settlers, "Grove."" [2] "Inver station" (http:/ / www. railscot. co. uk/ Ireland/ Irish_railways. pdf). Railscot - Irish Railways. . Retrieved 2007-10-16. [3] http:/ / www. inver. ie Kerrykeel {{Infobox settlement |name = Kerrykeel |other_name = An Cheathrú Chaol |settlement_type = Town |image_skyline = |image_caption = |pushpin_map = Ireland |pushpin_label_position = right |pushpin_map_caption = Location in Ireland |coordinates_display = inline,title |coordinates_region = IE |subdivision_type = Country |subdivision_name = Ireland |subdivision_type1 = Province |subdivision_name1 = Ulster |subdivision_type3 = County |subdivision_name3 = County Donegal |established_title = |established_date = |leader_title1 = Dáil Éireann |leader_name1 = [[Donegal North-East (Dáil Éireann constituency)|Donegal North-East] |unit_pref = Metric |area_footnotes = |area_total_km2 = |population_as_of = |population_footnotes = |population_total = |population_density_km2 = auto |timezone1 = WET |utc_offset1 = +0 |timezone1_DST = IST (WEST) |utc_offset1_DST = -1 |latd = 55.050941 |longd = -8.235626 |coordinates_format = dms |coordinates_type = dim:100000_region:IE |elevation_footnotes = |elevation_m = |area_code = 075, +000 353 74 |blank_name = Irish Grid Reference |blank_info = B847228 [1] |website = |footnotes = }} Kerrykeel (Irish: An Cheathrú Chaol, meaning "the narrow quarter") is a small village in County Donegal, Ireland. It lies between Knockalla Mountain, Ranny hill and the scenic Mulroy Bay.[1] It consists of supermarkets and small pubs, and Kerrykeel Motors and Donegal Creameries PLC. Kerrykeel is also in close vicinity to the popular tourist area of Portsalon, and serves as the gateway to the Fanad peninsula.[2] The village of Kerrykeel, 2008. Kerrykeel 461 Notable people • Billy Gillespie, footballer • John Kerr, ballad singer • John Joe McAteer, manager of The Kerrykeel club References [1] http:/ / www. discoverireland. com/ us/ ireland-places-to-go/ placefinder/ k/ kerrykeel-donegal/ [2] http:/ / www. donegalcottageholidays. com/ kerrykeel/ Our Lady of Lourdes Roman Catholic church. Kerrykeel Garda station. Kilcar 462 Kilcar Cill Charthaigh — Village — Cill Charthaigh Location in Ireland Coordinates: 54°37′57″N 8°35′34″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Government • Dáil Éireann Donegal South–West • EU Parliament North–West Irish Grid Reference G614763 [1] Cill Charthaigh is the only official name. The anglicized spelling Kilcar has no official status. Cill Charthaigh (anglicised as Kilcar)[2] is a small Gaeltacht village on the R263 regional road in the south west of County Donegal, Ireland. The Village The village itself consists of a main street with a church at one end and two textile factories at the other end. In between there are a few shops and four pubs. The village has the principal tweed hand weaving facility in Donegal, with a shop selling high quality tweed products. There is also a View from the monastic site at the old church down to the village, looking producer of seaweed based cosmetic products. east. The R263 is to be seen as it leaves Kilcar in direction to Killybegs Áislann Chill Chartha [3] is a community facility which includes a library, sports hall (basketball and indoor football), a gym, computer centre, and small Kilcar theatre. It also has exhibits based on the history of south west Donegal and usually has a revolving exhibition of historic local photographs. Áislann Chill Chartha is also the venue for the highly successful series of Traditional Music Concerts "Ceol na gConallach - The Donegal Sessions" these concerts run every Saturday night during the Summer months and various dates throughout the year, it is located in the same complex as the hand weaving centre. 463 Muckros Peninsula, Kilcar The national school is about 750 meters from the main street and the parish of Kilcar stretches all the way to the river which separates it from the next village, Carrick, which is about 6 kilometres away. The village itself is surrounded by a variety of townlands, which with the village comprise the parish of Kilcar. They are about a square mile in area. The parish of Kilcar includes some 45 townlands, although the names and exact number have changed over time. Culture One of these townlands is Muckross (Mucros in Irish) which is a popular location for tourists due to its spectacular scenery, rock climbing, surfing beach and safe family bathing beach. It is 3 km (unknown operator: u'strong' mi) east of the village on the coast road (See Muckross Head). Curris is also another area worth visiting because of its wonderful views of Sliabh a Liag plus it also has a lovely beach and pier in close proximity. The GAA pitch at Towney is located 2 kilometers outside the village on the coast road. It is one of the most scenically situated football pitches in Ireland. About 22% of residents are native Irish speakers. Notable residents The American couple Matthew Broderick and Sarah Jessica Parker own a holiday home in the area, and have been regular visitors.[4] Indie rock band The Revs come from Kilcar and often play at the annual Kilcar Festival in August. Donegal superstar Patrick McBrearty is from Kilcar. References [1] http:/ / getamap. ordnancesurvey. co. uk/ getamap/ frames. htm?mapAction=gaz& gazName=g& gazString=G614763 [2] Placenames (Ceantair Ghaeltachta) Order 2004 (http:/ / www. commissioner. ie/ downloads/ An_tOrdu_Logainmneacha_(Ceantair_Ghaeltachta)_2004. pdf). [3] http:/ / www. aislann. ie [4] http:/ / www. belfasttelegraph. co. uk/ entertainment/ film-tv/ news/ sarah-jessica-parker-and-matthew-broderick-off-to-donegal-to-save-marriage-13932174. html Kilcar External links • • • • Official Site (http://www.kilcar.net/) Kilcar Online (http://www.kilcaronline.com/) Comhairle Paroiste Chill Charthaigh (Kilcar Parish Council) (http://www.cpcc.ie/) Photo of Kilcar village as seen from the ruins of St. Cartha's Church (http://www.a-wee-bit-of-ireland.com/ eire_jul_2005/kilcar_10.html) • Photo of the Kilcar GAA pitch (http://www.a-wee-bit-of-ireland.com/eire_jul_2005/kilcar_11.html) • Official Website of Kilcar Tourism Committee (http://www.cill-chartha-kilcar.com) • Kilcar GAA - CLG Cill Chartha (http://www.clgchillchartha.com/) 464 Killea, County Donegal 465 Killea, County Donegal Killea Cill Fhéich — Town — Killea Location in Ireland Coordinates: 54°58′38″N 7°24′01″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Government • Dáil Éireann Donegal North–East Population • Urban 930 Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC-1) Irish Grid Reference Killea (Irish: Cill Fhéich, meaning "Fiach's church") is a village in Donegal, Ireland. Killea, County Donegal 466 The settlement sits on the border of County Donegal and County Londonderry in Northern Ireland. In recent years, many new homes have been built in the area and the village now acts largely as a commuter village for Derry City. Notable persons • Kevin McHugh - a footballer with Derry City FC of the League of Ireland. • Matthew Crossan - a footballer with Coleraine in the Irish Premier League. Killea. Killybegs 467 Killybegs Killybegs Na Cealla Beaga — Town — Bridge Street Killybegs Location in Ireland Coordinates: 54°38′10″N 8°26′40″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Government • Dáil Éireann Donegal South–West • EU Parliament North–West Population (2011) • Urban 1297 Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC-1) Irish Grid Reference G711767 [1] Killybegs 468 Killybegs (Irish: Na Cealla Beaga) is a town in County Donegal, Ireland. It is the largest fishing port in the county and on the island of Ireland. It is located on the south coast of the county, north of Donegal Bay, near Donegal Town. The town is situated at the head of a scenic harbour and at the base of a vast mountainous tract extending northward.[1] In the summer, there is a street festival celebrating the fish catches and incorporating the traditional "Blessing of the Boats". It has a population of about 2000 people [2] History In 1588, Killybegs was the last port of call for the Spanish vessel La Girona, which had dropped anchor in the harbour when the Spanish Armada fetched up on the Irish coast during Spain's war with England. With the assistance of a Killybegs chieftain, MacSweeney Bannagh, the Girona's personnel were fed, her rudder repaired, and she set sail for Scotland, but was wrecked off the Antrim coast with the loss of nearly 1,300 lives.[3] Killybegs is the most important fishing port in Ireland, and its harbour is often full with trawlers. Fishing industry Killybegs is a natural deepwater harbour with a depth of 12 meters at low water spring tide at the new €50 million pier completed in 2004. The harbour is home to all the largest Irish midwater pelagic trawlers, and a modest whitefish fleet, but it handles many other types of shipping as well. These include passenger cruise liners and mixed specialist cargoes. In recent years Killybegs has become the favoured port for the importation of wind turbines, and is a service port for the offshore gas/oil drilling rigs. The town is the centre of the Irish pelagic fishing and processing industries, as it specialises in the processing and freezing of species such as mackerel, herring, scad, and blue whiting. The finished processed fish is exported to markets in Africa, the Middle East and Europe by freezer ships. However, due to blanket enforcement of EU fishing regulations on Irish vessels by the Irish Department of the Marine, starting in 2005, and mackerel shoals remaining longer in Norwegian waters, there has been a downturn in the fishing industry in the town. This has led to redundancies in the fish processing industry, in which the fish factory workers have been the hardest hit. Education RSW tank trawler MFV Sheanne SO716 in Killybegs, 2007. The area has always been well provided for. The first National school, known as 'Killybegs National School', and later as the 'Commons National School', opened in 1834 on a site originally provided by the Plantation Commissioners in the reign of King James I[4] There are three National schools and one second level school in Killybegs as well as a third level institution Tourism College Killybegs, the only dedicated tourism institute in Ireland, offering courses in hospitality and culinary skills. The college has been academically integrated with Letterkenny Institute of Technology since 2001. Killybegs Water sport Killybegs is brilliant for water sports like surfing, canoeing, windsurfing, diving, kite-surfing and also water skiing. A new dive centre has recently opened and diving is available for over 16s but for 12 and over swimming pool diving is available. At the dive centre there is a professional dive shop and the centre is fully PADI certified and professional. Beach Fintra beach is located on the outskirts of Killybegs town and is a certified Blue Flag beach. It consists entirely of fine golden sand, and receives large numbers of day-trippers during the peak of the tourist season. Although it is lifeguarded throughout the bathing season it is the safest beach in Ireland, no fatalties ever having occurred there. Drive about 4 km west from Killybegs and turn left through the main entrance of 'The Clock Tower' restaurant, or go on little further past the new GAA pitch and turn left at the sign.[5] Donegal Carpets Killybegs is famous for its tapestries and carpets, some of which were produced on the biggest carpet loom in the world at the "Donegal Carpet Factory". The carpets, known as Donegals, are hand-knotted in the Turkish style. The carpets have adorned many important buildings in Ireland such as Dublin Castle, the Royal Hospital Kilmainham, Áras an Uachtaráin, Buckingham Palace and internationally the Vatican, The White House, 10 Downing Street and most state buildings around the world. The factory in Killybegs closed in 2003 and has been open since 2006 as the Maritime & Heritage Centre [6]. The Centre provides information on the carpet making and the fishing industry. Tours are conducted daily and visitors can watch smaller carpets being made and try making a knot. There is also a ship simulator which is the most modern in Ireland. The simulator offers three levels of technique providing great fun for children and the not so young testing their navigation skills. The centre is open all year round. Sport The local soccer club, St. Catherine's FC, was founded in 1896 and they play their home games at Emerald Park. The local GAA club is Na Cealla Beaga. They previously played their home games at McDevitt Park, Fintra. The club moved to a new ground, The Eamon Byrne Memorial Park, in May 2010. Killybegs in literature Killybegs Authors: John C. Ward: An Teagasg Criostaidhe fa Choinne Dioghoise Ratha Bhota 1891; Turas na croiche agus an Choróin Mhuire maille le dántaibh diadha 1892; Na hEipistil agus na soisgéil do na Domhnaigh agus na laetha saoire arna dtarraingt go Gaeilge 1904; An Cruinneolaí 1906; Leabhar filíochta fa choinne na scoil 1909 (with Padraig O'Beirne). Thomas Colin MacGinley ('Kinnfaela'): The Cliff Scenery of South-Western Donegal 1867 (Reprinted by the Four Masters Press 2000); General Biology 1874. Very Reverend James Stephens, P.P.: Illustrated Handbook of The Scenery and Antiquities of South-Western Donegal 1872. Charles Conaghan: History and Antiquities of Killybegs 1975. Dr Donald Martin: Killybegs Then and Now 1998; Killybegs-Down Memory Lane 2011. Pat Conaghan: Bygones 1989; The Great Famine in South-West Donegal 1845-1850 1997; The Zulu Fishermen 2003; Steamed Fish (The Phoenix No 2, Winter 1991/2); Stranorlar, Not San Francisco (The Phoenix No 3, Spring 1992). 469 Killybegs Bella McGee (poet) James Conwell (poet) Padraig O'Beirne (poet) e.g.: Mo Phiopa Gairid Donn (n.d). In 2011, French novelist Sorj Chalandon published "Retour à Killybegs" (back to Killybegs") whose main character, Tyrone Meehan a 80 year-old former IRA officer and British agent during 20 years, was born then murdered in April 2007 at his family's home in Killybegs. People • Thomas Nesbitt, inventor of the Harpoon Gun • Kevin Sharkey, artist and musician • Séamus Coleman, Everton F.C. attacking midfielder References [1] Samuel Lewis (1858), A Topographical Dictionary of Ireland (http:/ / books. google. com/ books?id=wqzRAAAAMAAJ& pg=PA158#v=onepage& q& f=false), p. 158, , retrieved 2011-07-23 [2] "travelsradiate.com" (http:/ / www. travelsradiate. com/ europe/ eire/ ulster/ killybegs/ 2963295-killybegs. html). implementation of Geoname Database. . Retrieved 2011-07-04. [3] "La Girona" (http:/ / www. english-heritage. org. uk/ upload/ pdf/ ACHWS_annual_report_2005. pdf). Annual Report of the Advisory Committee on Historic Wrecks, 2005. Advisory Committee on Historic Wreck Sites. pp. 35 pp.. . Retrieved 2008-11-01. [4] Bygones-New horizons on the history of Killybegs Killybegs: Pat Conaghan, Aghyeevoge (1989) ISBN 0-7323-3108-5 [5] Fintra Blue Flag Beach (http:/ / www. myguideireland. com/ fintra-beach) [6] http:/ / www. visitkillybegs. com External links • • • • • Official Tourism website (http://www.killybegs.ie/) Killybegs Online (http://www.killybegsonline.org/) Donegal Carpets (http://www.donegalusa.com/index.html) Tourism College Killybegs (http://www.tck.ie/) Tullycullion House B&B (http://www.tullycullion.com/) 470 Killygordon 471 Killygordon Killygordon Cúil na gCuirridín — Village — Killygordon Location in Ireland Coordinates: 54°48′11″N 7°35′48″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Population (2006) • Total 114 Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC-1) Irish Grid Reference Killygordon[1] or Killygordan[2] (Irish: Cúil na gCuirridín), is a small village in the Finn Valley of east County Donegal, Ireland. It has a population of 114 (2006) and is located on the N15 between Ballybofey and Castlefin. The separate townland of the Crossroads lies half a mile from Killygordon. The River Finn passes by the village on its way towards its confluence with the River Mourne and the River Foyle.[3] Killygordon 472 Amenities Killygordon has one pub, St. Patrick's Catholic church at the Crossroads, a Presbyterian church at Liscooley and St. Anne's Church of Ireland at Monellan. Economy The main employer in the area is Donegal Creameries Plc which is based in the nearby village of the Crossroads, a dairy company which supplies fresh milk to all of Donegal. As one of the largest employers in the county, it employs over 100 people and has been in operation since 1989. They sponsor most sports in Donegal. The GAA County team and the Finn Harps FC. [4] A view of Killygordon village. Places of Interest Monellan Castle, situated two miles outside the village, was built during the 18th century, and part of the 35 room dwelling was underground, to be used as a place of safety - if such was required. The castle and its gardens were in proper condition for some time after the Catholic Emancipation Act in 1775, until its demolition in the 1930s - on orders given to the Irish Land Commission from the Government of the day. Idiots? [5] Demographics The population of Killygordon is just over a hundred people. The village and surrounding areas have a Protestant population, however, Roman Catholicism is the main religion practiced. A picnic site in Killygordon. Killygordon 473 Sport The local Gaelic football team is Aodh Rua (Red Hugh's) and Setanta is the local hurling team. They have seperate Gaelic Athletic Association (GAA) grounds and both are located at the Crossroads. Education Killygordon has two primary schools: • Dromore National School. St. Patrick's Church at the Crossroads, Killygordon. • Killygordon National School. The Crossroads has one primary school: • Gleneely National School. The people of Killygordon get their secondary education either at the Finn Valley College (formally know as Stranorlar Vocational School), St. Columba's College Stranorlar or at the Royal and Prior, Raphoe.[6] Transport Killygordon railway station opened in September 1863, but finally closed on 1 January 1960.[7] A number of buses pass through nearby Castlefin on a daily basis going to Letterkenny, Derry, Strabane, Dublin, Sligo and Galway. References [1] Placenames Database of Ireland (http:/ / www. logainm. ie/ 16131. aspx) [2] "Table 5: Population of Towns ordered by County and size, 2002 and 2006" (http:/ / www. cso. ie/ en/ media/ csoie/ census/ documents/ census2006_Volume 1 - Table 5. pdf#page=36) (in Ireland). 2006 Census Volume 1. Central Statiistics Office. 2007. p. 56. . Retrieved 7 April 2012. [3] http:/ / www. salmon-ireland. com/ salmon-rivers/ foyle/ river-finn. jsp [4] http:/ / www. finnharps. com/ site/ index. php?option=com_content& view=article& id=464:donegal-cremaries-to-continue-as-official-sponsor-of-harps& catid=67:todays-highlights& Itemid=90 [5] http:/ / www. finnvalley. ie/ history/ monellancastle/ index. html [6] http:/ / www. ceist. ie/ ceist_schools/ view_school. cfm?loadref=76 [7] "Castlefinn station" (http:/ / www. railscot. co. uk/ Ireland/ Irish_railways. pdf) (PDF). Railscot - Irish Railways. . Retrieved 2007-09-16. External links • Finn Valley Online (http://www.finnvalley.ie/) Laghy 474 Laghy Laghy an Lathaigh — Village — Laghy Location in Ireland Coordinates: 54°37′00″N 8°05′15″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Government • Dáil Éireann Donegal South–West [1] Population (2006) • Urban 169 Area code(s) +353 74 Irish Grid Reference G939748 [2] Laghy or Laghey (Irish: an Lathaigh)[3] is a small village in County Donegal, Ireland, between Ballintra and Donegal Town. Laghy is one of three villages that makes up the parish of Drumholm, formerly a Civil and Church of Ireland parish, now only used as a division of the Roman Catholic Diocese of Raphoe. The village has a quarry, a supermarket, garden centre, filling station, two public houses, a church with a graveyard, an Orange Order hall, a recycling centre, a Donegal County Council yard and salt depot, and a national school (St Eunan's NS). Laghy is also near two of the most scenic beaches in Ireland, namely Rossnowlagh and Murvagh. Murvagh is also the home to the Donegal Golf Club. Laghy 475 The best known landmarks in this village are The Seven Arches Bridge at the bottom of the main street, and the signpost within the village that says Laghy is 1 km away. Transport Laghey railway station opened on 1 September 1905, shut for goods traffic on 15 December 1947 and shut altogether on 1 January 1960.[4] Education St Eunan's National School (Irish: Scoil Náisiúnta Naomh Adhamhnáin) is the only school remaining in the village. It is a Catholic primary school, one of two in the parish of Drumholm, under the patronage of the Bishop of Raphoe, currently Dr Philip Boyce, and is named after Saint Eunan, one of the two patron saints of the diocese. The school was built in the first half of the twentieth century and is in the design of many others built across the country at this time. Seven Arches Bridge, Laghy, Co. Donegal 5 June 2005 The original school had two class rooms, while an extension, which opened in 1992, added a further two to the west end of the existing building, at this point it was and still remains the only school in the village. The school is directly adjacent to the main N15 Sligo to Letterkenny road, which also cuts the school off from the main part of the village. Because of this, when the village was being by-passed for the upgrading of the route, a tunnel had to be constructed to allow those living to the east of the road in the main part of the village to access the school safely.[5] The current principal is Pauric Daly. Secondary education is provided by the Abbey Vocational School in Donegal Town, while a small number attend Colaiste Cholmcille in Ballyshannon. Sport • The local G.A.A. club is called Naomh Bríd (club also includes Ballintra). • The local Soccer club is called Copany Rovers (club also includes Ballintra). References [1] "Table 12 - Alphabetical list of Towns with their population, 2002 and 2006" (http:/ / www. cso. ie/ census/ documents/ census2006_volume_1_pop_classified_by_area. pdf) (PDF). Census 2006, Volume 1 - Population Classified by Area. Central Statistics Office. 2007-04-26. pp. pages 135–146. . Retrieved 2008-02-27. [2] http:/ / getamap. ordnancesurvey. co. uk/ getamap/ frames. htm?mapAction=gaz& gazName=g& gazString=G939748 [3] Placenames Database of Ireland: Laghy/An Lathaigh (http:/ / www. logainm. ie/ 14144. aspx) [4] "Laghy station" (http:/ / www. railscot. co. uk/ Ireland/ Irish_railways. pdf) (PDF). Railscot - Irish Railways. . Retrieved 2007-10-28. [5] Trimble, Rev. Canon T.H.. The Legacy that is Laghey Community and Church Laghy 476 External links • Laghy Village Website (http://www.laghey.com) Lettermacaward Leitir Mhic an Bhaird — Village — Leitir Mhic an Bhaird Location in Ireland Coordinates: 54°47′51″N 8°16′57″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Elevation 78 m (unknown operator: u'strong' ft) Irish Grid Reference G818944 [1] Leitir Mhic an Bhaird is the only official name. The anglicized spelling Lettermacaward has no official status. Leitir Mhic an Bhaird or Leitir Mhic a' Bhaird (anglicized as Lettermacaward)[1] is a Gaeltacht village in the Rosses region of County Donegal, Ireland. The village, known colloquially as Leitir (pronounced letcher), is between the larger towns of Glenties and Dungloe. Lettermacaward Amenities The city has two shops, 'Clerkins', a family run service station, and 'Gallagher's Stop & Shop'. There are 3 pubs; Elliott's, the Gweebarra Bar and Packie's Bar. Sport The local Gaelic Athletic Association team is Na Rossa. They are one of the best teams in the County. External links • Further information on the area [2] References [1] Placenames Database of Ireland (http:/ / logainm. ie/ ?text=Lettermacaward& placeID=1396258) [2] http:/ / lettermacaward. info 477 Lifford 478 Lifford Lifford Leifear — Town — The Three Coins sculpture, Lifford Lifford Location in Ireland Coordinates: 54°50′08″N 7°28′40″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Dáil Éireann Donegal South–West Elevation 6 m (unknown operator: u'strong' ft) [1] Population (2006) • Urban 1448 • Environs 3389 Clonleigh electoral districts Irish Grid Reference H330984 [2] Lifford 479 Dialing code +353 (0)74 Website [www.donegalcoco.ie www.donegalcoco.ie] For the area in Birmingham, England see Lifford, Birmingham Lifford (Irish: Leifear, historically anglicized as Liffer)[3] is the county town of County Donegal, Ireland. It is the administrative capital of the county and the seat of Donegal County Council, although the town of Letterkenny is often mistaken for fulfilling this role. Lifford lies in the Finn Valley area of East Donegal where the River Finn meets the River Mourne to create the River Foyle. The town grew up around a castle built there by Manghus Ó Domhnaill, ruler of Tír Chonaill (mostly modern County Donegal), in the 16th century. It later became a British Army garrison town until most of Ireland won independence as a dominion in 1922. It lies across the River Foyle from Strabane (in County Tyrone, Northern Ireland) and is linked to that town by Lifford Bridge. Lifford has achieved national recognition in the 2008 Tidy Towns Awards [4] as the best newcomer to the competition in Category 'C'. History Lifford came into the possession of Sir Richard Hansard during the Plantation of Ulster in 1607. One of the conditions of his grant was that a ferry crossing be provided over the River Finn. This service continued until 1730 when the first bridge linking Lifford and Strabane was built. Lifford Main Street. In the 19th century a curious custom existed when if, by the end of the Assizes in Lifford or Omagh courthouses, a jury could not reach a unanimous verdict in a case, they were sent to the "verge" of the county to be dismissed.[5] In some of the cases of counties Donegal and Tyrone this would have been the middle of Lifford Bridge. The present bridge was constructed by engineering company McAlpines in 1964, jointly funded by Donegal County Council and the old Tyrone County Council (the present Strabane District Council was only formed in the early 1970s). During The Troubles in 1968, an attempt was made to blow the bridge up. However, it was only closed for a short time and today remains an important road link. Local Government Lifford was once a constituency that elected two M.P.s (Members of Parliament) from the area to the Irish House of Commons from the years 1692 until 1800. More information on who represented the area can be found here at Lifford (Parliament of Ireland constituency). Lifford is now in the Dáil Éireann constituency of Donegal South–West. It was formerly in Donegal North–East, but due to the population shift within the County an electoral boundary review in 2008 moved the town and environs to Donegal SW. The town also moved from the Letterkenny Electoral Area to the Stranorlar Electoral Area as part of that boundary review.[6] The town is represented by one councillor with Donegal County Council, namely Gerry Crawford (Fianna Fáil). Councillor Crawford from Porthall has been elected Donegal County Mayor and Chairman of the Council for 2008. Lifford Demographics Lifford Town has a population of 1,448 as of the 2006 census [7] of the Republic of Ireland. This is an increase from 1,395 on 2002, showing an increase of 3.8%. The town population divides up as 671 male and 777 female residents. Lifford is part of the Parish of Clonleigh with a population of 3,357, the parish is sub-divided for electoral purposes into two separate Electoral Districts, Clonleigh North, population 1,339 and Clonleigh South, population 2,050.[1] Education Hansard's Grammar School The will of Sir Richard Hansard in 1619, endowed a private school,[8] in Lifford. The will provided for 30 pounds sterling a year for a master, and 20 pounds sterling a year for an usher. The school was intended to cater for classical studies. All children of Clonleigh parish were to be entitled to attend for a free education. Hansards' Grammar School commenced operations in 1697. In 1791, the Commissioners of Education reported that there were no free scholars in the school out of an attendance of 18, of whom 6 were boarders. The Commissioners of 1807-1812 reported the school Ogham stone in the Diamond, Lifford. as being in a very unsatisfactory condition. While the head master and usher were being paid salaries according to the endowment, the teaching had been handed off to a third person on a wage of 6 pounds sterling a year. Furthermore, classical subjects were not being taught, only arithmetic. The school continued in decline until 1840, until an inspection by the Commissioners precipitated the resignation of the master, who was accused of major neglect. Attendance which had been as low as three pupils, rapidly increased under a new classical teacher. Sometime before 1856, the Earl Erne (whose family, the Creightons / Crichtons, had originally settled in Ulster at Lifford before moving south to County Fermanagh), on behalf of the Church of Ireland Bishop of Derry and Raphoe, converted the school into an English-style school, and hired a master and mistress. Both were dismissed in 1856. At this time there was a dwelling house attached to the school, lived in by a previous master. In 1857, the school was reopened as an English school under the management of the Bishop of Derry and Raphoe. 480 Lifford 481 Places of Interest Lifford has several noted buildings. One is the Old Courthouse & Museum, located across from the HQ of Donegal County Council in the Diamond area of the town. The museum houses a permanent display of O'Donnell clan documents and artefacts, as well as minute books from various institutes in Donegal. Also noteworthy is Cavanacor House on the outskirts of the town - which is the ancestral home of the 11th President of the United States of America, James Knox Polk. His great, great, great grandmother (Magdelene Tasker) was born here[9] in 1634, she later married Capt. Robert Bruce Pollock and emigrated to the USA. King James II dined at Cavanacor House on his way to the siege of Derry in 1689.[9] The Old Courthouse, Lifford. Another building of note is the Prior Endowed School. It was built in 1880 to cater for local Protestant children with monies bequeathed by Miss Eleanor Prior from Ballindrait. The Prior school closed in 1972, being amalgamated with the Royal School in Raphoe to create the "Royal & Prior Comprehensive School".[10] The school and grounds were first taken over by the then Irish Department of Posts & Telegraphs, and later (from 1974) by the Irish Defence Forces for use as a military barracks. It is currently occupied by ‘A’ Company, 28 Infantry Battalion of the Irish Army.[11] Transport Road Lifford is known as the ‘Gateway to Donegal’, this is because it is the first town you enter in Donegal when travelling from Dublin on the N2 (A5/A38 through Northern Ireland). Two national primary routes, the N15 to Sligo via Stranorlar, Donegal Town and Ballyshannon and also the N14 to Letterkenny take travellers to all parts in the County. There is also the R265/R236 national secondary route to Derry City. Lifford has several daily bus services operated by Bus Éireann to Dublin Airport / Dublin City Centre (Busáras). They also serve Letterkenny and Ballybofey, where connections can be had for travelling onwards to Sligo with its train and bus station. Canal • In 1792 the 6 km (4 mi) Strabane Canal was constructed from the tidal waters of Lough Foyle at Leck, to Strabane. The canal fell into disuse in 1962. In June 2006 the Strabane Lifford Development Commission awarded a £1.3m cross-border waterways restoration contract. The project was launched by Her Excellency Prof. Mary McAleese, the President of Ireland, in Lifford and involves the restoration of 2.4 km (1.5 mi) of canal and two locks to working order. Work is due to start on the Lough Foyle side of the canal in the summer of 2006. Lifford 482 Railway • Lifford Halt railway station opened on 1 January 1909 and finally closed on 1 January 1960.[12] Lifford was a stop on the Strabane to Letterkenny narrow gauge rail line. It was run by the CDR, as it was known at the time or County Donegal Railways Joint Committee. This line also stopped at Ballindrait, Raphoe and Convoy, County Donegal on route to Letterkenny. The nearest railway station is operated by Northern Ireland Railways and runs from Derry / Londonderry railway station via Coleraine to Belfast Central railway station and Belfast Great Victoria Street railway station. The strategically important Belfast-Derry railway line is to be upgraded to facilitate more frequent trains and improvements to the permanent way such as track and signalling to enable faster services. Sport Lifford is home to a number of sporting clubs, including: • Naomh Pádraig GAA Club [13] (which plays in the Donegal Senior Football Division 4), they play their home games at McDermott Park in the Roughan. • Lifford Celtic Football Club (which plays in the Premier Division of the Donegal Junior Football League[14]), their home ground is at Greenbrae Park. Lifford Greyhound Stadium. • Deele Harps Football Club (which play in the First Division of the Donegal Junior Football League[14]), They play their home games at the Lifford Athletic Club grounds in the Roughan. • Lifford Athletic Club [15] train at the their athletic track[16] & grounds in the Roughan. • The Three Rivers Shotokan Karate Club, The karate club train all age groups from beginner to black belt in the Lifford/Clonleigh Community Resource Centre on the Gallows Lane. Notable people • Shay Given, association football goalkeeper with Ireland's record number of appearances • Mickey Joe Harte, singer-songwriter • Paddy Harte, former Fine Gael TD References [1] "Census 2006 – Volume 1 – Population Classified by Area" (http:/ / www. cso. ie/ census/ documents/ census2006_volume_1_pop_classified_by_area. pdf) (PDF). Central Statistics Office Census 2006 Reports. Central Statistics Office Ireland. April 2007. . Retrieved 2011-05-07. [2] http:/ / getamap. ordnancesurvey. co. uk/ getamap/ frames. htm?mapAction=gaz& gazName=g& gazString=H330984 [3] Placenames Database of Ireland (http:/ / www. logainm. ie/ 16278. aspx) (see archival records) [4] "Welcome to TidyTowns Ireland" (http:/ / www. tidytowns. ie/ results. php). Tidytowns.ie. . Retrieved 2010-05-14. [5] The Second Part of the Institutes of the Laws of England, Page 547 [6] Electoral Area Committees - Home Page (http:/ / www. electoralareacommittees. ie/ ) [7] Beyond 20/20 WDS - Table View (http:/ / beyond2020. cso. ie/ Census/ TableViewer/ tableView. aspx?ReportId=1764) [8] Report of Her Majesty's Commissioners Appointed to Inquire into the Endownments, Funds and Actual Condition of all Schools Endowed for the Purposes of Education in Ireland, 1858 Lifford [9] ©Searc.ie. "Donegal County.com & Dún na nGall.com - Cavanacor House" (http:/ / www. dun-na-ngall. com/ cav. html). Dun-na-ngall.com. . Retrieved 2010-05-14. [10] "Royal and Prior Comprehensive School, Raphoe" (http:/ / www. royalandprior. ie/ history. php). Royalandprior.ie. . Retrieved 2010-05-14. [11] "Lifford Military Post" (http:/ / www. finnvalleypost. com/ 2008/ 10/ 15/ lifford-barracks-to-shut/ ). Finn Valley Post. . Retrieved 2008-11-11. [12] "Lifford Halt station" (http:/ / www. railscot. co. uk/ Ireland/ Irish_railways. pdf). Railscot - Irish Railways. . Retrieved 2007-10-28. [13] Official homepage of Naomh Padraig Lifford (http:/ / www. lifford. donegal. gaa. ie/ ) [14] Donegal Junior Football League > Home (http:/ / www. donegaljuniorfl. com/ ) [15] LiffordAC.com (http:/ / www. liffordac. com) [16] Lifford Athletic Club and Gym (http:/ / getactive. ie/ Lifford Athletic Club and Gym/ courses/ home. aspx) Shay-Given.com official website for Shay Given (http://www.shay-given.com) External links • Belfast Telegraph, 26 June 2006 • Lifford Bridge (http://www.askaboutireland.ie/show_narrative_page.do?page_id=1218) • Fiach Arts (http://www.fiacharts.com/) 483 Loch an Iúir 484 Loch an Iúir Loch an Iúir — Town — Loch an Iúir Location in Ireland Coordinates: 55°00′04″N 8°16′12″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Population (2002) • Urban 312 Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC-1) Irish Grid Reference B810169 [1] Loch an Iúir (Irish: lake of the yew), anglicised as Loughanure,[2][3] is a village in the north-west of County Donegal, Ireland. It is halfway between Gweedore and Dungloe, on the N56 road, in the Gaeltacht area of the Rosses. The village owes its name to the native yew tree which grows wild on Oileán Iúir, a small island on the lake. History The main road in Loch an Iúir. Loch an Iúir was once a major source of agricultural lime production in the west of Donegal. Limestone was abundant in Loch an Iúir in the mid-20th century, and the locals mined it for a living. Furnaces were required to reduce the limestone to powder. These furnaces, known as "kilns", can still be seen in the village today. The kilns were ignited with turf from the surrounding bogland. One kiln is partially restored and visible at the hairpin bend on the N56. Lime was once sold as far as Arranmore, and nearly every building in the Rosses was painted white with it. Loch an Iúir 485 Lake Loch an Iúir is the largest lake in the Rosses; it is over four kilometeres long and flows down the Crolly River into the Atlantic Ocean. Salmon, brown trout, and rainbow trout inhabit the waters. The lake is nestled among the surrounding hills. Cumann Iascaireachta Loch an Iúir hold fishing competitions on the lake annually. Nearby attractions include Blue Flag beaches, local summer festivals, surfing, and sight-seeing. Loch an Iúir attracts many tourists during the summer months. Loch an Iúir or 'Lake of the Yew Tree', with Oilean Iúir clearly visible Language Loch an Iúir is officially a Gaeltacht area and the Irish language is spoken. It is home to renowned author and historian Niall Ó Dónaill, who, among other achievements, was responsible for the Irish-English dictionary Foclóir Gaeilge-Béarla. Education The National School in the village is called Scoil Eoin Pól, and the Irish language college is called Coláiste Mhuire. Coláiste Mhuire was the centre of education in the Lower Rosses area for decades before Rosses Community School in Dungloe was built. Today, the college operates for 8 weeks each summer to teach Irish to children. Almost 1,000 students from all over Ulster attend the college annually. References [1] http:/ / getamap. ordnancesurvey. co. uk/ getamap/ frames. htm?mapAction=gaz& gazName=g& gazString=B810169 [2] Loch an Iuir (http:/ / www. logainm. ie/ 14517. aspx), Irish Placenames Database. Retrieved: 2010-08-17. [3] Ionstraimí Reachtúla Uimhir 872 de 2004 (http:/ / www. commissioner. ie/ downloads/ An_tOrdu_Logainmneacha_(Ceantair_Ghaeltachta)_2004. pdf), An Coimisinéir Teanga (commissioner.ie). Retrieved: 2010-08-17. External links • Village website (http://www.loughanure.com/) • Local schoolboys' business (http://www.donegalpens.com/) Malin, County Donegal 486 Malin, County Donegal Malin Málainn — Town — Malin Bridge Malin Location in Ireland Coordinates: 55°15′N 7°16′W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Government • Dáil Éireann Donegal North–East • EU Parliament North–West Population (2006) • Urban 122 Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC-1) Malin, County Donegal 487 Irish Grid Reference C467453 [1] Malin (Irish: Málainn) is a village in County Donegal, Ireland, situated 6km (4 mi) north of Carndonagh. A further 13km (8 mi) north further is Malin Head, the most northerly point of the island of Ireland. Malin was a planned settlement based around a triangular green. Malin won the Irish Tidy Towns Competition in 1970 and 1991. Sport Malin in 1996. • Malin GAA is the town's local GAA Club, the club is considered as an Senior Football club. • The Malin 5k run is held annually as well as a Raft-Race which takes place to raise funds for the RNLI. Tidy towns Malin has done well in the Tidy Town's contest, winning the competition twice and coming runners-up in 2002. Notable residents The Irish folk music trio The Henry Girls are from Malin.[1] References [1] "New moon rising for The Henry Girls" (http:/ / www. donegalnow. com/ sp/ article_manager/ detail/ new_moon_rising_for_the_henry_girls). Donegal Now. . Retrieved 13 April 2012. External links • The Tidy Towns of Ireland "Celebrating 50 years" (http://www.tidytowns.ie/u_documents/ The_Tidy_Towns_of_Ireland.pdf) • (http://www.cso.ie/census/documents/census2006_Table_7_and_12.pdf) Manorcunningham 488 Manorcunningham Manorcunningham Mainéar Uí Chuinneagáin — Village — Manorcunningham Location in Ireland Coordinates: 54°57′12″N 7°37′16″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Government • Dáil Éireann Population (2006) Donegal North–East [1] • Urban 414 Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC-1) Irish Grid Reference Manorcunningham, or Manor (Irish: Mainéar Uí Chuinneagáin) is a small village and townland in County Donegal, Ireland. It is located 7 kilometers from Letterkenny on the main road to Derry. It's known locally and throughout Donegal as just Manor.[2] Currently housing development is ongoing and quickly becoming a place to live and commute to the major towns such as Letterkenny. Manorcunningham 489 History Before the Plantation of Ulster, Mannorcunningham was part of the townland of Magheramore (historically spelt as Machrimore and Maghrimore; from Irish: Machaire Mór).[3] Transport • Manorcunningham railway station opened on 30 June 1883, closed for passenger traffic on 3 June 1940, and finally closed altogether on 10 August 1953.[4] Raymochey Church of Ireland. In recent years the much mooted New Railway Corridor Link might be operational and invoke memories of days gone by. Near neighbouring villages remember the era of industrial time fondly and would embrace any new technological advances. Village Life Manorcunningham post office. Whilst the village is quiet, it does house a number of activities. The Local Community Resource Centre hosts many local community groups under the umbrella organisation called Manorcunningham Community Development Ltd. often referred to as MCDA, who run the Community Resource Centre. The facility has a new Computer Suite, with Broadband access, Fitness, Boxing, Parent & Toddler Group, Women's Group, Historical Society, Festival Committee, Lagan Harps Football Club, Irish & Old Time Dancing, Community Youth Project. The Centre has been a hub for most activities over the years. In 2007 they held their first Community Festival in over 22 years and now plan to hold an annual event. MCDA whilst looking after and making sure the local Community Resource Centre remains operational, MCDA are also developing plans for the wider village, inclusive of Health Matters, Outreach Services, Infrastructure. There are two local shops where provisions may be purchased (including petrol and selected hardware at one of the shops, known as Ivan Browne's Shop) and regular Sunday and other services in both the Church of Ireland [5] and Presbyterian Church [6] located in the village. A row of housing in Manorcunningham. A regular Lough Swilly bus service runs through the village (non-express services are available through requesting stop at the main road) towards either Letterkenny or Derry.[7] Transport is also available via Gallaghers Coach Company, who run a regular daily service between Annagry and Belfast via Derry, and which will stop in Manorcunningham at request.[8] Manorcunningham Entertainment Music is provided in the local pub at weekend times. The main public house is The Lagan Inn which houses after match refreshments for the local Lagan Harps Football Club. They run a weekly Take Your Pick quiz to raise money for the local Festival and also takeaway in the area. Services Manor Community Childcare offer reduced expense educational facility for none attending national school age, and also an After School Programme. Irish Wheelchair Association provide Countywide Services for wheelchair usuers, courses, training, a small fleet of buses for users and meals for all participants. Famous people • Sir James Murray Irwin, Major in the British Army • Erminda Rentoul Esler, novelist References [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] http:/ / www. cso. ie/ census/ documents/ census2006_Table_7_and_12. pdf http:/ / www. eastdonegalulsterscots. com/ history. html Placenames Database of Ireland (http:/ / www. logainm. ie/ ?text=Manorcunningham& placeID=15649) "Manorcunningham station" (http:/ / www. railscot. co. uk/ Ireland/ Irish_railways. pdf) (PDF). Railscot - Irish Railways. . Retrieved 2007-11-03. http:/ / www. ireland. anglican. org http:/ / www. presbyterianireland. org/ congregations/ ray. html http:/ / www. loughswillybusco. com/ timetables http:/ / www. gallagherscoaches. com http://www.loughswillybusco.com/timetables/ 490 Milford, County Donegal 491 Milford, County Donegal Millford Baile na nGallóglach — Town — Millford Location in Ireland Coordinates: 55°05′16″N 7°41′55″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Government • Dáil Éireann Donegal North–East Population (2011) • Urban 1530 Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC-1) Area code(s) 075, +000 353 74 Milford, County Donegal 492 Irish Grid Reference C188267 [1] Milford or Millford, historically called Ballynagalloglagh (from Irish: Baile na nGallóglach),[2] is a small town and townland in County Donegal, Ireland. The population at the 2011 census was 1530.[3] History and name Located north of Letterkenny, the town was founded in the 18th century by the Clement family. The Irish Baile na nGallóglach literally means "town of the The local Roman Catholic church, St. Peter's. gallóglach". The gallóglaigh (anglicised gallowglass) were an elite class of mercenary warrior who came from Gaelic-Norse clans in Scotland between the mid 13th century and late 16th century. A battle between the Irish (helped by gallóglaigh) and the English took place on a hill in the townland and this is where the name comes from. Amenities The town once had 2 major employers in the Milford Bakery & Flour Mills and McMahons garage, but sadly both are now gone a long time.It now contains a post-office, 4 supermarkets, a veterinary practice, 3 pubs, one national school and two second-level schools, as well as an adult education centre. Milford also has a health centre, library with council offices and a fire station. Local lakes offer great freshwater fishing. Milford is within close driving distances to four different beaches; Portsalon, Rathmullan, Downings and Tramore. As a feeder town to Letterkenny, Milford is a tranquil well located friendly village with a thriving young population and good schools to match. Milford Community Website [4] People Celtic F.C. footballer Patsy Gallacher was born in Milford in 1891. Brendan Boyce Olympian 2012 Walker http:/ / www.brendanboyce.co.uk/ References [1] [2] [3] [4] http:/ / getamap. ordnancesurvey. co. uk/ getamap/ frames. htm?mapAction=gaz& gazName=g& gazString=C188267 Placenames Database of Ireland (http:/ / www. logainm. ie/ 15963. aspx) CSO Census 2011 records - almost doubled in 5 years (http:/ / www. cso. ie/ census/ documents/ census2006_Table_7_and_12. pdf) http:/ / www. milforddonegal. net External Links • [http://www.presbyterianireland.org/congregations/milford.html Milford Presbyterian Church (http://www. milforddonegal.net/) Mountcharles 493 Mountcharles Mountcharles Tamhnach an tSalainn — Village — Mountcharles Location in Ireland Coordinates: 54°39′N 8°12′W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Government • Dáil Éireann Donegal South–West • EU Parliament North–West Irish Grid Reference Mountcharles, historically Tawnaghtallan (Irish: Tamhnach an tSalainn, meaning "field of the salt"), is a village in County Donegal, Ireland. It lies 6 km from Donegal town on the Killybegs road. Mountcharles Name The village is named for its founder, Charles Conyngham, an ancestor of the current Lord Conyngham (frequently, if inaccurately, known as 'Lord Henry Mountcharles') of Slane Castle, County Meath. Charles Conyngham is credited with building the village in the 17th century. The Conyngham estate and its large estate house (Hall Demesne), close to the village, are now unoccupied. The courtesy title of the heir apparent of The Marquess Conyngham is Earl of Mount Charles, being named after the village. The villages's English language name is usually pronounced locally as Mount-charr-liss. The village's Irish name, Tamhnach an tSalainn ("field of the sale"), refers to the salt works (also in the grounds of the Conyngham estate) which provided employment to local people during the 18th century. Transport Mountcharles railway station opened on 18 August 1893 and shut on 1 January 1960.[1] People • Cahir Healy, politician Shops and pubs Mountcharles has two shops: one on the Main Street the other on the Upper Main Street. There are three pubs: two on the Main Street, while the other is on Upper Main Street. The Tavern on the Main Street has been voted pub and restaurant of the year in 2003 and 2004. At one time, the village had about eight pubs, mainly in the early 20th century. Sport Montcharles has a Gaelic games pitch that belongs to the local club St Naul's (or Naomh Naile in the Irish language). Nearby is a soccer club known as Eany Celtic FC. Landmarks The town is well known for their local pump (in the town centre) and well (situated by St. Nauls pitch, which are both by the local school. Both are popular local meeting spots. The Upper Main Street has unusual landmarks like standing stones with lights inside. The bridge and the big and small pier are also well known, where the locals do the popular New Year swim and raft race. References [1] "Mountcharles station" (http:/ / www. railscot. co. uk/ Ireland/ Irish_railways. pdf). Railscot - Irish Railways. . Retrieved 2007-11-18. 494 Moville 495 Moville Moville Bun an Phobail — Town — Moville. Moville Location in Ireland Coordinates: 55°12′00″N 6°59′00″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Elevation 30 m (unknown operator: u'strong' ft) [1] Population (2011) • Urban 1481 Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC-1) Irish Grid Reference C648397 [1] Moville 496 Moville (Magh Bhile or Bun an Phobail in Irish, having the same etymology as Movilla Abbey) is a town and coastal resort on the Inishowen Peninsula of County Donegal, Ireland, close to the northern tip of the island of Ireland. Location The town enjoys a scenic location on the eastern shore of Lough Foyle, some 30 km from Derry, which lies across the border in Northern Ireland. Its most attractive feature is its handsome Green, a large seaside park in the Victorian style which features bandstands, walking trails, playgrounds, a coastal footpath and sweeping views east across the waters of the lough to Northern Ireland. As a result of this pleasant location and the proximity of several marvellous beaches, Moville receives many visitors and daytrippers in the summer months. History In the second half of the 19th century, Moville was a significant point of embarkation for many travellers, especially emigrants, to Canada and the United States of America. Steamships of the Anchor Line, of Glasgow, and others en-route from Glasgow to New York City regularly called at Moville to pick up additional passengers. Today, the town receives little maritime traffic; it retains its small fishing harbour, but the important commercial fishing port at Greencastle lies only a few miles away. The Montgomerys of New Park were a landed family of the town, the ancestors of Field-Marshal Montgomery. When flying over the town in 1947 he commented: "It looks just the same. My dear old Irish home".[2] His grandfather Robert had built Montgomery Terrace in 1884.[3] An annual regatta is held at Moville every year in August, and has done so since early in the 19th century. In older times the one-man punt was popular, whereas nowadays the race of the home-made rafts brings competitors from many counties and large spectator crowds. Image gallery Maguire's Pub, a typical Irish pub, est. 1871. Carrickarory Pier at night - Lights of Magilligan prison on left. View of Moville's Green and Lough Foyle coast. Moville References [1] http:/ / www. cso. ie/ census/ documents/ census2006_Table_7_and_12. pdf [2] Notes on the 1947 visit (http:/ / www. movilleinishowen. com/ history/ moville_heritage/ moville_heritage_htm/ family_field_marshall_montgomery. htm) [3] http:/ / www. movilleinishowen. com/ gallery/ postcards_old_and_new/ black_white_postcards. htm External links • Moville Records (http://www.movillerecords.com/) - Moville genealogy and history 497 Muff, County Donegal 498 Muff, County Donegal Muff Magh — Town — Main Street Muff Muff Location in Ireland Coordinates: 55°04′03″N 7°16′09″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Government • Dáil Éireann Donegal North–East • EU Parliament North–West [1] Population (2010) • Urban 2354 Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC-1) Muff, County Donegal 499 Irish Grid Reference Muff (historically spelt Mough, from Irish: Magh)[2] is a village in County Donegal, Ireland. It is near the mouth of the River Foyle (where it flows into Lough Foyle) and sits at the border between the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland. The village of Culmore and the city of Derry are to the south. Muff has experienced significant growth in population during the last decade as people from Northern Ireland migrate across the border. Each summer, usually during the first week in August, the village celebrates Muff Festival;[3] which includes céilithe, competitions, street partying, parades, amusements, night-time entertainment, and live performances. Sport The local Soccer team is called Quigley's Point Swifts [4]. Local Gaelic club, Naomh Padraig [5], has recently developed a new pitch and a new club house. The two clubs have just recently pioneered a new game of football as a charity fund-raiser after an accident to a member of the local community, which involved played one half of the game with Gaelic football rules and one half with soccer rules. The town is also home to Muff Diving Club, one of the fastest growing diving clubs in the world.[6] People Playwright Brian Friel was a resident of the village for some time. Further reading • Sean Beattie (2004). Donegal. Sutton: Printing Press. ISBN 0-7509-3825-0.(Ireland in Old Photographs series) References [1] http:/ / www. cso. ie/ census/ documents/ census2006_Table_7_and_12. pdf [2] Placenames Database of Ireland (http:/ / www. logainm. ie/ 15264. aspx) [3] Muff Festival (http:/ / www. mufffestival. com) [4] http:/ / www. qpsfc. com [5] http:/ / www. naomhpadraig. com [6] http:/ / www. muffdivingclub. net/ index. html Narin, County Donegal 500 Narin, County Donegal Narin an Fhearthainn — Town — Narin Location in Ireland Coordinates: 54°47′51″N 8°16′57″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC-1) Irish Grid Reference G818944 [1] Naran is the official spelling. Narin or Naran (Irish: An Fhearthainn) is a small village on Gweebarra Bay on the west coast of County Donegal, Ireland. The topography is rough rolling bogland and craggy low hills. Narin Strand is a sand beach approximately two kilometres long. Inishkeel island is located approximately 250 metres from the mainland in Gweebarra Bay and can be reached on foot at low tide by crossing a tidal sand bank. The population of Narin is spread sparsely around the countryside in mostly modern housing. There is a large tourist trade serviced by several B&Bs and caravan parks. The local amenities consist of two pubs, The Cope convenience store and beach front and caravan park shops. There is also an 18 hole golf course with club house. Narin lies at an altitude of 12 metres (42 feet) and lies 8 km north of Ardara, 11 km northwest of Glenties and 13 km south of Dungloe.[1] Narin, County Donegal 501 Gallery Narin Strand. Sunset over Portnoo from Narin Strand. References [1] Naran, Ireland Page - Falling Rain Genomics (http:/ / www. fallingrain. com/ world/ EI/ 6/ Naran. html) Newtown Cunningham 502 Newtown Cunningham Newtown Cunningham an Baile Nua — Town — Newtown Cunningham Location in Ireland Coordinates: 55°00′26″N 7°29′21″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Government • Dáil Éireann Donegal North–East Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC-1) Irish Grid Reference C285176 [1] Newtown Cunningham, sometimes spelled Newtowncunningham or abbreviated to Newton (Irish: An Baile Nua), is a village in the Laggan district in the east of County Donegal, Ireland, located on the N13 road 18 km east of Letterkenny and 16 km west of Derry. The 2006 census reports the village's population as 999, an increase of 50.7% over the 2002 population of 663. History The area of Newtown Cunningham was historically known as Culmacatrain.[2] Like nearby Manorcunningham, the village takes its name from John Cunningham, originally from Kilbirnie, Ayrshire, in Scotland, who was among the settlers granted lands in County Donegal during the Plantation of Ulster. The village's architecture includes stately Anglo-Irish "big houses", now known as the Manse and the Castle, which reflect the village's colonial and Presbyterian history. Newtown Cunningham 503 Economy and Community Newtowncunningham's long Main Street once formed part of the busy N13 trunk road connecting Letterkenny with Derry. A bypass diverted the N13 around the village in 1985. Many of the village's businesses either closed or moved to locations along the bypass, gradually divesting the village of economic activity. New residential developments have recently being built at both ends of Newtown Cunningham, expanding the village's population by over 50% between 2002 and 2006. A variety of new retail and service outlets have also been built. A new industrial estate area located at the Letterkenny end of the village contains a number of large retail outlets. Newtown Cunningham is located close to Blanket Nook, a wetland area that is a wintering site for the rare Whooper Swan. The bird sanctuary is one of many tourist attractions in the surrounding area, which also include Grianan of Aileach and the sixteenth-century Burt Castle. All Saints, the Catholic church in Newtowncunningham. Sallybrook was the former railway station near the town. Transport • Newtown Cunningham is served by bus services both from Lough Swilly and Bus Éireann. Both bus services use the main street as part of their Derry to Letterkenny route, and Bus Éireann's Derry to Galway service also stops in the village. • Newtowncunningham railway station opened on 30 June 1883, closed for passenger traffic on 3 June 1940 and finally closed altogether on 10 August 1953.[3] Culture The population is largely Roman Catholic, with significant Presbyterian and Church of Ireland presences, and churches for each. Scoil Cholmcille, a new Catholic primary (national) school, was completed in 1983. In 1986, the Pairc Colmcille sports ground was opened. In the late 1990s, the existing Catholic church in the centre of the village was demolished and the construction began on a replacement church, St. Peter's Bark, which opened in 1999. The Columban Hall on the main street hosts many events throughout the year, such as festivals, concerts, and car boot sales. Newtowncunningham Church of Ireland. The local Orange Lodge, Newtown Cunningham LOL1063, meet regularly in the Orange Hall on main street and celebrated their centenary in 2011. There is also an Apprentice Boys Club and an accordion band which meet in the Orange Hall. The hall is used by various community groups throughout the year as well as hosting an Annual Newtown Cunningham Remembrance Day Service and variety concerts. The Newtown Cunningham's Presbyterian Church was formed in 1830. The Church building was built in one year by voluntary labour. Newtown Cunningham Presbyterian Church was united with Crossroads from 1957 until 1974 and is now united with Ray. People • Conolly Norman, world-renowned psychiatrist References [1] http:/ / getamap. ordnancesurvey. co. uk/ getamap/ frames. htm?mapAction=gaz& gazName=g& gazString=C285176 [2] Placenames Database of Ireland (http:/ / www. logainm. ie/ ?text=newtowncunningham& placeID=15145) [3] "Newtown Cunningham station" (http:/ / www. railscot. co. uk/ Ireland/ Irish_railways. pdf) (PDF). Railscot - Irish Railways. . Retrieved 2007-11-22. External links • Newtowncunningham & Killea Parish website (http://www.newtownkilleaparish.ie) • Cunningham history (http://clancunningham.org/photos/Settlement2.htm) 504 Pettigo 505 Pettigo Pettigo Paiteagó — Village — Pettigo Location in Ireland Coordinates: 54°32′56″N 7°49′52″W Country Ireland and United Kingdom Province Ulster County County Donegal, County Fermanagh Population (2006) • Urban 424 Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC-1) Irish Grid Reference H105669 [1] Pettigo (also spelt Pettigoe; Irish: Paiteagó) is a small village on the border of County Donegal, Republic of Ireland and County Fermanagh, Northern Ireland. It is bisected by the Termon River which is part of the border between the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland. The portion of the village in Northern Ireland is officially called Tullyhommon, but is locally known as 'High Street' due to its hillside position overlooking the remainder of the village. The rest of the village in the Republic includes Main Street, Mill Street and Station Street, all of which meet in The Diamond at the centre of the village. There are also two relatively modern housing estates on the northern outskirts, namely Termon Villas and St. Patrick's Terrace along with new developments such as Mill Grove. Pettigo Economy Once a thriving market village on the Enniskillen and Bundoran Railway, the village suffered from partition in 1922, the closure of the railway in 1957 and from the closure of numerous cross-border roads by the British army at the height of the Troubles in Northern Ireland. The latter had the effect of cutting Pettigo off from much of its rural hinterland in counties Fermanagh and Tyrone. In recent years economic prospects have improved with the reopening of many of the cross-border roads, improving access for tourists and locals alike. Agriculture, particularly the rearing of sheep and cattle, forms the mainstay of the local economy. The quality of the local land (marshy, with much blanket bog) renders it largely unsuitable for grain crops. There are also expansive forestry plantations in the surrounding townlands, owned and operated by Coillte Teoranta, the Republic's Forestry Service. Many of the plantations occupy land unsuitable for other commercial uses, or where peat extraction has been completed, leaving poor quality thin soil cover behind. The Sitka Spruce and Lodgepole Pine softwood varieties comprise 90% of the canopy. Pettigo has traditionally been the 'gateway' to St. Patrick's Purgatory, a Christian pilgrimage site, situated on an island in Lough Derg. During the mid-late 20th century, the popularity of the pilgrimage brought a significant boost to the local economy as tens of thousands of pilgrims from all over Ireland and abroad travelled through the village on their way to and from Lough Derg. Although the popularity of the pilgrimage has dwindled in recent years, it is still an important driver of tourism in the area. Fighting in 1922 In June 1922, at the tail end of the Irish War of Independence, Pettigo in what was now the new Irish Free State, and Belleek, which was now in Northern Ireland were occupied by a 100-strong Irish Republican Army unit who had arrived there from Donegal. They were attacked first by a party of 100 Ulster Special Constabulary, who crossed Lough Erne but they were beaten off, losing one killed. Two companies of British Army troops along with 6 field guns, along with the USC, was then sent to take the villages. In the ensuing fighting, in which the British bombarded the village and then stormed it, the IRA lost three men killed, six wounded and four captured Pettigo before being forced to retreat back to Donegal. One British soldier was killed in the fighting. Two civilians were also shot dead by the USC in nearby Lettercan.[2] Other reports put the IRA casualties at seven killed and the total death toll as high as 30.[3] 506 Pettigo 507 Religion The local area has a mixed religious make-up, with the village having Roman Catholic, Church of Ireland, Presbyterian and Methodist Churches. Pettigo village centre Railway The Enniskillen and Bundoran Railway opened from Bundoran Junction on the Londonderry and Enniskillen Railway near Kilskeery, Co. Tyrone to Pettigo on 13 June 1866.[4] It was extended Bundoran, Co. Donegal in 1868[5] and intended to continue to Sligo but failed to do so.[6] The Great Northern Railway ran the E&BR from 1876 and took it over in 1896.[7] Pettigo railway station Pettigo railway station was opened in 1866 but it incorporated a house that had been built in 1840. Trains from Pettigo went to Dublin Amiens Street, Enniskillen, Belleek, Ballyshannon and Bundoran. 30 men kept the railway in running repair. Water supplies for the steam locomotives was drawn from the River Termon. The railway greatly aided the movement and export of agricultural produce such as sheep and cattle and the import and distribution of coal, building materials and imported food. Livestock were loaded onto the train from the nearby Pettigo Market Yard. The railway also carried visitors to the developing seaside resort of Bundoran whose first hotel, the Hamilton Hotel, was built by Pettigo man, Hazlett Hamilton, who was a major property owner in Pettigo. Messrs. Brassey and Field completed the railway after the previous contractor went bankrupt. The return fare from Pettigo to Bundoran in 1866 was 3rd class 1 shilling, 2nd class 1s and 6 pence and 1st class 2 shillings (10 new pence). The railway also enhanced access to the Lough Derg pilgrimage for people from all over Ireland. Both the partition of Ireland in 1922 and increasing road transport weakened the railway. The Government of Northern Ireland made the GNR close nearly all of its cross-border lines, including the Bundoran branch, on 1 October 1957.[8] Pettigo 508 People • • • • • Moya Doherty, Co-founder of Riverdance John Kells Ingram, Poet Seán McGinley, Actor Basil McIvor, Politician and Pioneer of Integrated Education Miler Magrath Archbishop Castle McGrath Castle McGrath was built in the 1600’s, Bishop Miler McGrath lived in the Castle. There was escape tunnel from the castle to the belaut river. The Castle was besieged and captured during the 1641 rebellion and soon after abandoned. The castle and lands were sold to the Leslie family of Co Monaghan who controlled the Pettigo estate until the early 20th century. The Mill Pettigo Mill was built by the Leslie family who owned the Pettigo Estate. The Leslie family were originally from Monaghan town. Pettigo Mill was first on the map of Pettigo dated 1767, but probably is much older. The Mill got it’s power from the Termon river. It was described as a cloth mill i.e. woollen cloth, but probably also ground oats and other grains. During the famine, maize or Indian meal as it was called was ground in the Pettigo Mill. This was then sent to the poor through the port of Ballyshannon in the year 1845/1846. After the arrival of the railway in Pettigo, which opened in 1860, Pettigo Mill was a saw mill as Pettigo Mill. well as a grain mill. Timber for all the usual purposes was produced but the main product that was made was egg boxes which held twelve eggs. Eggs were sent by train to the cities of Belfast and Dublin or onto England and Scotland. Egg boxes were in great demand as many people depended on their egg money to buy their groceries in the local shops. Irish War of Independence Memorial The memorial was erected in 1953 to commemorate four men who died in the invasion of Pettigo on June 4th 1922. Walks The Mountains, hills and quiet country roads offer space for hill-walking, cycling and pony trekking. The Pettigo History trail which is centred round the village can be explored at the hiker's leisure. The trail entails the history and heritage of the Pettigo area. 30 plaques tell the creator of Riverdance, Moya Doherty, “French” Tom Barton, “Banjo” Patterson, the Crimean War Tree and the Pettigo Connection to “The Quiet Man” among many other tales of the areas surrounded by lakes. Pettigo 509 Lakes / angling Lying between Lough Erne and Lough Derg, Pettigo is able to offer the visiting angler a full range of fishing opportunities. With over fifty lakes; salmon and native brown trout will keep the game angler happy while the coarse angler will find specimen fish in Drumgun Lough. Fishing permits and boat hire is available from Brittons Bar [9] which is located in the village. Lough Derg Pettigo Post Office. Lough Derg, the biggest of the Pettigo lakes, is famous throughout the North West for its trout-fishing. Covering 2,200 acres with a shore line of 13 miles, it offers opportunities for both boat and shore angling. It also offers excellent pike fishing.Lough Derg lies about four miles north of the village of Pettigo in County Donegal. Station Island, the location of the Lough Derg Pilgrimage, is often referred to as Saint Patrick's Purgatory or simply Lough Derg. This small lake-island, renowned in Irish Christian tradition since the time of St. Patrick, has been receiving pilgrims continuously for well over 1000 years. In earlier times the area around the lake was a place of protection for anyone in trouble. The monastery nearby offered hospitality to all. References [1] http:/ / getamap. ordnancesurvey. co. uk/ getamap/ frames. htm?mapAction=gaz& gazName=g& gazString=H105669 [2] Robert Lynch, The Northern IRA and the early years of Partition, 1920-1922, p154-156 [3] [New York Times, June 6, 1922 http:/ / query. nytimes. com/ mem/ archive-free/ pdf?res=9400EED91439EF3ABC4E53DFB0668389639EDE] [4] "Pettigo station" (http:/ / www. railscot. co. uk/ Ireland/ Irish_railways. pdf) (PDF). Railscot - Irish Railways. . Retrieved 2007-11-22. [5] Hajducki, 1974, maps 6, 7 [6] Sprinks 1970, p. 8 [7] Hajducki 1974, p. xiii [8] Baker 1972, pp. 153, 207 [9] http:/ / web. archive. org/ web/ 20091028152707/ http:/ / geocities. com/ pdoogon/ brittons_bar. html Sources • Baker, Michael H.C. (1972). Irish Railways since 1916. London: Ian Allan. ISBN 7110 0282 7. • Hajducki, S. Maxwell (1974). A Railway Atlas of Ireland. Newton Abbott: David & Charles. maps 6, 7, page xiii. ISBN 0-7153-5167-2. • Sprinks, N.W. (1970). Sligo, Leitrim and Northern Counties Railway. Billericay: Irish Railway Record Society (London Area). Pettigo 510 External links • • • • Pettigo GAA Home Page (http://www.pettigogaa.com/) Facebook Profile (http://www.facebook.com/group.php?v=wall&ref=mf&gid=245497193484) Pettigo ADOPT (http://www.pettigo.com/) Lough Derg (http://www.loughderg.org/) Portnablagh 511 Portnablagh Portnablagh Port na Bláiche — Town — Portnablagh Location in Ireland Coordinates: 55°03′03″N 8°14′08″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC-1) Irish Grid Reference C055307 [1] Portnablagh (Irish: Port na Bláiche, meaning, depending on translation, either 'port of the flowers' or 'harbour of the buttermilk', from the rough seas in the area.) is a small village in County Donegal, Ireland. Portnablagh (also written in English as Port-na-Blagh) is located on Donegal's North West coast, specifically the west side of Sheephaven Bay. It is on the N56 road.[1] View across Sheephaven Bay from Port-na-blagh with Horn Head in the background Portnablagh, along with neighbouring Dunfanaghy, is well known for its beaches and picturesque harbour. It attracts many tourists, mostly from Northern Ireland, every summer. The small harbour is well protected on 3 sides and has a relatively short slipway which gets frequent use by fishing and pleasure boat owners, particularly during summer months. It provides access for boat owners to a large number of beaches in Sheephaven Bay, many of which are only accessible on foot or by sea. Portnablagh 512 References [1] Untitled Page (http:/ / www. donegaldirect. com/ ws_town_details. aspx?Town=Portnablagh+ (Port+ na+ Bláiche)) A view of Portnablagh beach at dusk. Ramelton 513 Ramelton Ramelton Ráth Mealtáin — Town — Ramelton Location in Ireland Coordinates: 55°03′03″N 8°14′08″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Population (2006) • Urban 1088 Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC-1) Irish Grid Reference B847228 [1] Ramelton (Irish: Ráth Mealtáin) is a town in County Donegal, Ireland. Its population is 1,088 (2006). Ramelton is situated at the mouth of the River Lennon, 11 km north of Letterkenny and 4 km east of Milford, on the western shores of Lough Swilly. The town is named from Ráth Mealtáin, (Irish for "the fort of Mealtan"), an early Ramelton Gaelic chieftain. The fort is said to lie under the ruins of a medieval castle of the O'Donnells, the ruling family of West Donegal before their exile to mainland Europe in 1607. Ramelton was settled by English and Scots planters during the Ulster Plantation of the 17th century and is the site of the oldest Presbyterian church in Ireland. Ramelton also has a Church of Ireland Church of St.Paul, Parish of Tullyaughnish. The town was the setting for the 1995 television program "The Hanging Gale", which told of the Potato Famine of the 19th century. The town hosts the Lennon Festival, a village fair, since 1970. Ramelton is a Fáilte Ireland designated Heritage Town. Famous people • • • • Dave Gallaher, All Blacks Rugby captain Conrad Logan, professional footballer Francis Makemie, clergyman, often referred to as the founder of Presbyterianism in the United States The town is also associated with the Russell and Buchanan families, ancestors of James Buchanan, fifteenth President of the US • Catherine Black, Nurse to King Edward V • • • • • • • • Charles Knox, Famous Hatter in the 1800's Robert Bonner, Newspaper Magnate Samuel Gamble Bayne, Famous Banker Lucius Gwynn, Irish Cricketer and Rugby Player Ethan Keeney, professional bowler. Walter Patterson Myles Trearty, town farmer. Paul Mc Cahill, Famous Irish country and western singer who wears an American cowboy hat. External links • ramelton.net [1] • rameltontidytowns.com [2] • rameltonpresbyterianchurch.com [3] References [1] http:/ / www. ramelton. net [2] http:/ / www. rameltontidytowns. com [3] http:/ / www. rameltonpresbyterianchurch. com 514 Quigley's Point 515 Quigley's Point Quigley's Point Rinn Uí Choigligh — Town — Quigley's Point Location in Ireland Coordinates: 55°12′00″N 6°59′00″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Elevation 30 m (unknown operator: u'strong' ft) Population (2006) • Urban 331 Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC-1) Irish Grid Reference C648397 [1] Quigley's Point (Irish: Rinn Uí Choigligh) is a village in County Donegal, Ireland, located on the eastern shores of Inishowen and overlooks the wide expanse of Lough Foyle. To the south is the city of Derry and to the north lie the villages of Moville and Greencastle. A car ferry links Greencastle with Magilligan during the summer. The village of Quigley's Point is also known as Carrowkeel (pronounced "Kerrykeel" locally) as it is marked as such on Irish Ordnance Survey maps. However all local signage and the local post office use the name "Quigley's Point". Quigley's Point 516 The two pubs in the village are Foody's Lodge (now for sale) and Callaghans (The Cabry House). Foody's Lodge also has a caravan park adjacent to it. Full access to the Dipod cannot always be guaranteed. Quigley's Point, Co. Donegal. The Presbyterian Church in Ireland has a church and Lecture Hall at Greenbank, near the village. Quigley's Point forms part of the Roman Catholic parish of Iskaheen and Upper Moville, and the nearest Church in the Parish is at Drung, approximately 3 km away towards Moville. The nearest Church of Ireland Church is at Redcastle(closed) and there is a Methodist Church in Ireland Church at Whitecastle, approximately 2.5 km from the village just off the road to Moville. Nearby amenities include an interesting heritage centre at Isle of Doagh which tells the story of the famine years in the area. Quigley's Point has 1 filling station, a beauty parlour, a hair dressers, a post office, two bars, a hotel (which is currently closed down,) a 'caravan/camp site' and a chip shop. The village also has a vibrant Community Centre which offers facilities for activities for people of all ages and interests. The Centre and activities are run by volunteers supported by staff on various schemes. It has an integrated playgroup offering sessional pre-school childcare; and has a range of activities on offer including a parent and toddler group, children's arts and crafts, kidz club, youth club, indoor and outdoor football, karate for children and youths, ladies's club, IT training suite, to name a few. Raphoe 517 Raphoe Raphoe Ráth Bhoth — Town — Raphoe in 2008. Raphoe Location in Ireland Coordinates: 54°52′26″N 7°36′02″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Government • Dáil Éireann Donegal North–East [1] Population (2011) • Urban 1555 Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC-1) Irish Grid Reference Raphoe ( /ˈræfoʊ/; Irish: Ráth Bhoth) is a town in County Donegal, Ireland. It is the main town in the fertile district of East Donegal known as the Laggan, as well as giving its name to the Roman Catholic Diocese of Raphoe and the Church of Ireland (or Anglican) Diocese of Derry and Raphoe. Raphoe 518 Name Raphoe, historically Raffoe,[2] comes from the Irish Ráth Bhoth, which is made up of the words ráth (fort) and both (hut). This likely refers to clay and wattle huts surrounded with a strong fortified mound.[3] It is believed these huts were built by monks in the early Christian period. History The rich agricultural land around Raphoe has been inhabited and cultivated for thousands of years,and evidence of this can be seen through monuments such as the Beltany stone circle, just outside the town. The stone circle is one of the largest in Ireland with a diameter of 44 metres (165 feet) and made up of more than sixty stones in all. The site is believed to date to around 2000 BC, and that it was originally an enclosed cairn. Its name is believed to be linked to the Celtic festival of fertility known as 'Beltane'.[4] Around 550 AD Columba (also known as Colmcille), one of the three patron saints of Ireland, founded a monastic settlement in the area. This site was further developed by his kinsman Eunan, who gives his name to the town's cathedral and is patron saint of the Diocese of Raphoe. The Diamond, Raphoe. In 1198, John de Courcy, a Norman knight who had invaded Ulster in 1177, returned to County Donegal to devastate Inishowen and on his way destroyed churches at Ardstraw, County Tyrone and Raphoe.[5] The design of the modern town is traced to the Ulster Plantation of the early 17th century, when the town was granted to English and Scottish settlers. It was these settlers who laid out the town with the 'Diamond' at its centre, in a similar manner to other Plantation towns like Derry and Donegal. Raphoe Castle Raphoe Castle. Built in the 1630s, the castle, which is now nothing more than a shell, was laid siege to during the Irish Rebellion of 1641, captured by Cromwell's troops in 1650 and was damaged by supporters of King James II in 1689. Although still awaiting restoration, Raphoe Castle is probably the most impressive castle in Donegal. In 1633, John Leslie was translated from the Scottish See of the Isles to become the Bishop of Raphoe. Marrying at the age of 67, absorbing the Bishopric of Clogher at the age of 90, Leslie dominated the area until his death, aged 100, in 1671. Feeling threatened in his new location, he built himself a new palace on a hill overlooking the town using stone from an ancient Round Tower in 1637. This proved fortuitous Raphoe when rebellion broke out in 1641 and the Bishop was forced to shelter in the “castle”, as it has come to be known, until relieved by the Lagganeer army. Eight years later, Leslie, a Royalist was besieged by Cromwellian troops. This time, he was forced to surrender but unlike virtually every other bishop in Ireland, Leslie survived and was returned to his See at the Restoration in 1660. A leading figure in the Established Church, Bishop Leslie was no friend of either Catholic or Non-conformist. In 1664, he ordered four dissenting Presbyterian ministers to appear before his court, and when they failed to appear, had them arrested and imprisoned in Lifford gaol.[6] A century later, in 1798, the castle was attacked again, this time by the United Irishmen, three of whom were killed. The castle was destroyed in an accidental fire in 1838[7] Raphoe Cathedral St. Columcille and St. Eunan, ninth abbot of Iona, had churches at Raphoe in the 5h and 6th centuries. Several 9th century blocks of stone can be found in the porch and in the north wall of the present cathedral. The south-east corner dates from the 12th century. The latest building dates from the 1730s. The communion plate is also noteworthy. Notable bishops include George Montgomery, first Protestant bishop 1605-1610, a Scot, who was mainly involved in re-claimingchurch lands, and bishop Andrew Knox 1611-1633, who set about repairing and rebuilding the Raphoe Catholic church. cathedral. A stone inscribed “And. Knox II. Epi. Cura”, set in the porch, commemorates him. Bishop John Leslie had formerly been a soldier and had his own private army which he led into battle. Bishop Twysden, 1747–1753, spent little time in Raphoe but squandered the family fortune in London. Subsequently he was shot whilst in the act of robbing a stage-coach.Sandy Montgomery, a kinsman of Bishop Montgomery lies within the churchyard. His inscription reads, “Here lyeth the Body of Alexander Montgomery Esq., who departed this Life 29th September 1800, aged 78. He Represented this once Independent Country, 32 years”[6] 519 Raphoe 520 Raphoe St.Eunan Church of Ireland Cathedral Beltany Stone Circle On the summit of Beltany Hill, just over a mile from Raphoe there stands one of the finest stone circles in Ireland. Reputedly older than Stonehenge, it consists of 64 standing stones out of an original 80. The stones range in height from 4 ft to 9 ft (1.2-2.7 metres) while the diameter of the circle is 145 ft (44.2 metres). To the S E of the circle is a standing stone 6 ft (2 metres) high. Beltony is a corruption of Baal tine, the fire of Baal; this suggests that the inhabitants of this area worshipped Baal, the sun god, and ruler of nature. Tradition tells us that the principal ceremonies were performed at the summer solstice; a sacred fire was lit in the centre of the circle of stones, which represented the stars and fire of the sun god Baal.[8] Beltany Stone Cirlce. Religion The town lends its name to both the Roman Catholic and Church of Ireland dioceses, which cover most of Donegal, with the exception of Inishowen. Raphoe's status has declined significantly in recent centuries however, with the Anglican diocese being merged with Derry, while the Roman Catholic bishop now has his See in the larger town of Letterkenny. The Church of Ireland Cathedral, built on the site of Columba's monastery, is named for St Eunan (as is the Roman Catholic Cathedral in Letterkenny). Raphoe 521 Transport Raphoe railway station opened on 1 January 1909 and finally closed on 31 January 1959.[9] The nearest railway station is operated by Northern Ireland Railways and runs from Derry / Londonderry railway station via Coleraine to Belfast Central railway station and Belfast Great Victoria Street railway station. The strategically important Belfast-Derry railway line is to be upgraded to facilitate more frequent trains and improvements to the permanent way such as track and signalling to enable faster services. Education Raphoe has two secondary schools and two primary schools. The Royal and Prior comprehensive school is of the Protestant ethos and Deele College is non-denominational.[10] The Royal and Prior Comprehensive school. Recent history In recent years, Raphoe has come under the media spotlight following the establishment of the Morris Tribunal to investigate allegations of corrupt and dishonest policing in the County by the Garda Síochána. The Tribunal's second report related to Garda attempts to frame a local publican, Frankie McBrearty, for the murder of cattle dealer Richie Barron.[11] On August 27, 2005, the first Royal Black Preceptory march in Ireland was held in Raphoe.[12] Sir Gerrard Jude "Gerry" Robinson is an Irish businessman and Television personality currently living in Raphoe.[1] He is the former non-executive Chairman of Allied Domecq and the ex-Chairman/Chief Executive of Granada. He has a Georgian country house in on the outskirts of Raphoe and he also established a botanical garden with a narrow gauge railway - the Difflin Lake Railway - which is open to the public.[13] References [1] http:/ / www. donegalcoco. ie/ NR/ rdonlyres/ 30A6B96A-C356-4738-9DEC-902E05A9286F/ 0/ OverallCensusUpdate. pdf [2] Placenames Database of Ireland (http:/ / www. logainm. ie/ 16498. aspx) (see archival records) [3] In and Around Raphoe published 1999 [4] Noonan, D: "Castles & Ancient Monuments of Ireland", page 137. Aurum Press, 2001 [5] DeBreffny, D & Mott, G (1976). The Churches and Abbeys of Ireland. London: Thames & Hudson. pp. 60–61. [6] http:/ / www. eastdonegalulsterscots. com/ newbookletsm. pdf [7] Noonan 2001, p.146. [8] http:/ / www. askaboutireland. ie/ reading-room/ history-heritage/ heritage-towns/ the-heritage-towns-of-don/ raphoe/ beltony-stone-circle/ [9] "Raphoe station" (http:/ / www. railscot. co. uk/ Ireland/ Irish_railways. pdf) (PDF). Railscot - Irish Railways. . Retrieved 2007-11-22. [10] http:/ / www. deelecollege. ie/ [11] Irish Examiner: 'Morris Tribunal condemns garda negligence'; 2 June 2005. Viewed 2008-04-14 (http:/ / archives. tcm. ie/ irishexaminer/ 2005/ 06/ 02/ story348793566. asp) [12] RTÉ News: 'Royal Black Preceptory holds Donegal parade'; 27 August 2005. Viewed 2008-04-14 (http:/ / www. rte. ie/ news/ 2005/ 0827/ donegal. html) [13] http:/ / en. wikipedia. org/ wiki/ Gerry_Robinson Rathmullan 522 Rathmullan Rathmullan Ráth Maoláin — Town — Rathmullan Location in Ireland Coordinates: 55°06′00″N 7°32′00″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Government • Dáil Éireann Donegal North–East Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC-1) Irish Grid Reference C295275 [1] Rathmullan (Irish: Ráth Maoláin, meaning "Maoláin's ringfort") is a small seaside village on the Fanad Peninsula in County Donegal, Ireland. It is situated on the western shore of Lough Swilly, 11 km north-east of Ramelton and 12 km east of Milford. Rathmullan was the scene of the Flight of the Earls in 1607. There are also the ruins of a medieval Carmelite Friary in Rathmullan which was built by Eoghan Rua MacSweeney in 1516. The Friary was sacked by the English garrison from Sligo in 1595. In 1607, Rathmullan was also said to have seen the last of the Gaelic Order, most notably the Clan Ó Néill and the Clan Ó Domhnaill, during the Flight of the Earls to the Continent. This 'flight' took place from Portnamurray on the southern edge of the town. In 1617 the Friary was occupied by the Protestant Bishop of Raphoe, The Rt. Rev. Dr. Andrew Knox, who turned it into a stronghold during the colonisation of County Donegal during the Plantation of Ulster. Rathmullan 523 In the 18th century Wolfe Tone, a leader of the 1798 Rising was held in Rathmullan after his capture in Buncrana, ]. In the 19th century there was a British battery situated near the pier to defend Lough Swilly from a possible French invasion during the Napoleonic Wars. This battery still stands and today serves as a heritage centre. Lough Swilly Deep Sea Fishing Festival A scene at Rathmullan beach, 2005. The sea is a large part of the lives of the people of Rathmullan and Lough Swilly Deep Sea Fishing Festival held in June is evidence of this. The 2007 festival took place on Sat, June 2nd, and Sun, June 3rd. A view of Rathmullen. References [1] http:/ / getamap. ordnancesurvey. co. uk/ getamap/ frames. htm?mapAction=gaz& gazName=g& gazString=C295275 St Johnston 524 St Johnston St Johnston Baile Suingean — Village — Village of St. Johnston St Johnston Location in Ireland Coordinates: 54°56′10″N 7°27′42″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Government • Dáil Éireann Donegal North–East [1] Population (2006) • Urban 479 Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC-1) Irish Grid Reference St Johnston 525 Website [www.stjohnstonandcarrigans.com www.stjohnstonandcarrigans.com] St Johnston (Irish: Baile Suingean) is a village in County Donegal, Ireland. The village is located on the west bank of the River Foyle, in The Laggan district of East Donegal, on the R236 regional road. People • Tommy Peoples, musician Transport An aerial view of St Johnston. The town had a station on the Great Northern Railway of Ireland which was closed. The nearest railway station is operated by Northern Ireland Railways and runs from Derry / Londonderry railway station via Coleraine to Belfast Central railway station and Belfast Great Victoria Street railway station. The strategically important Belfast-Derry railway line is to be upgraded to facilitate more frequent trains and improvements to the permanent way such as track and signalling to enable faster services. External links • Official site [1] References [1] http:/ / www. cso. ie/ census/ documents/ census2006_Table_7_and_12. pdf Stranorlar 526 Stranorlar Stranorlar Srath an Urláir — Town — Stranorlar's Roman Catholic church Stranorlar Location in Ireland Coordinates: 54°48′00″N 7°47′24″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Elevation 30 m (unknown operator: u'strong' ft) Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC+1) Irish Grid Reference H194946 [1] Website [www.ballybofeystranorlar.com www.ballybofeystranorlar.com] Stranorlar (Irish: Srath an Urláir, meaning the 'valley of the floor' or flat bottomed valley) is a small town in the Finn Valley of County Donegal, in Ireland. Stranorlar and Ballybofey (located on the other side of the River Finn) Stranorlar form the Twin Towns. Transport The town is located at the junction of the N15 and N13 national primary roads. For nearly 100 years, Stranorlar was the headquarters of the County Donegal Railway system (originally the Finn Valley Railway), with services to Derry and Letterkenny via Strabane (near Lifford), to Ballyshannon and Killybegs via Donegal, and to Glenties. At its peak the railway had 130 employees. The last train ran from Stranorlar in 1961. Stranorlar railway station was built by the Finn Valley Railway and opened on 7 September 1863 and finally closed on 5 February] 1960.[1] The old railway station was demolished to make way for a new bus garage owned and run by Bus Éireann. To celebrate the millennium, the old clock from the railway station was restored and installed in a new clock tower which sits at the old pedestrian entrance to the railway station yard. The town remains the main depot for Bus Éireann within County Donegal. The nearest railway station is operated by Northern Ireland Railways and runs from Derry / Londonderry railway station via Coleraine to Belfast Central railway station and Belfast Great Victoria Street railway station. The strategically important Belfast-Derry railway line is to be upgraded to facilitate more frequent trains and improvements to the permanent way such as track and signalling to enable faster services. The next nearest railway station is Sligo railway station where Iarnród Éireann, Official site - Timetables, bookings and operations [6] trains run to Dublin Connolly. Education Stranorlar is home to St. Columba's College and Finn Valley College. The town is also home to two primary schools. St Mary's primary school which is adjacent to the Catholic Church and the Robertson National School which is opposite the Church of Ireland. Religion Isaac Butt MP, founder of the Home Rule Movement is buried in the churchyard of the C of I Church (A registered monument). The Catholic Church of St Mary is an imposing 19th Century structure. There are a Methodist and a Presbyterian church in Stranorlar also. Sport Finn Valley Athletics Club has its track in the town. There is an 18 hole golf course and game fishing in the river Finn, and nearby is the Lough Alann bird sanctuary. Tourism Drumboe Woods are the major attraction of Stranorlar. The woods are managed by Coillte and provide walking routes along the banks of the River Finn and the upper woods. Outside the town, a small folly called The Steeple is a popular destination for many walkers. From the top of the tower, on a clear day, the hillfort of The Grianan of Aileach can be seen. There is an interesting raised ring fort at Dunwiley, outside the town. There are numerous guest houses throughout the town and on the main street is Stranorlar's only hotel. Kee's Hotel is a family run three star hotel, first established in the 19th century as a coach house. The town has lost out to its bigger twin on the other side of the river, Jackson's Hotel as far as commercial development goes and is mainly a residential area. The vernacular architecture of the town is largely 19th century solid two and three storey townhouses, one or two of some interest. Unfortunately, they are rapidly being lost to development. 527 Stranorlar People • Frances Browne, poet and novelist • James Boyle, MP References [1] "Stranorlar station" (http:/ / www. railscot. co. uk/ Ireland/ Irish_railways. pdf). Railscot - Irish Railways. . Retrieved 2007-11-24. External links • Local Art Group (http://www.fiacharts.com/) 528 Teelin 529 Teelin Teileann — Village — Teileann Location in Ireland Coordinates: 54°37′55″N 8°38′44″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Population • Urban 300 Irish Grid Reference G580765 [1] Teileann is the only official name. The anglicized spelling Teelin has no official status. Teileann (anglicized as Teelin)[2] is a Gaeltacht village in County Donegal, Ireland. It is near Slieve League, at the northwest end of Donegal Bay. Its population is about 250–300. The village is noted for fishing, scuba diving, and traditional music. It has a fine deep harbour and boat launching facilities with safe mooring. It is an Irish-speaking community, and has been the subject of many linguistic studies. Teelin was one of the first settlements to appear on maps of Ireland, as it was an important port. The planning of houses in the area is a good example of the much criticised ribbon development endemic in Ireland with dwellings strung along the main road for several miles with little clustering until recently. Teelin 530 References [1] http:/ / getamap. ordnancesurvey. co. uk/ getamap/ frames. htm?mapAction=gaz& gazName=g& gazString=G580765 [2] Placenames (Ceantair Ghaeltachta) Order 2004 (http:/ / www. commissioner. ie/ downloads/ An_tOrdu_Logainmneacha_(Ceantair_Ghaeltachta)_2004. pdf). External links • Teileann (Teelin) (http://www.donegallibrary.ie/memory/towns/teelin.htm) at Donegal Places Banagh Banagh (Irish: Báinigh[1]) is a barony in County Donegal in Ireland. Patrick Weston Joyce said the name Banagh came from Enna Bogaine, son of Conall Gulban, son of Niall of the Nine Hostages.[2] It was created along with Boylagh when the former barony of Boylagh and Banagh was split in 1791 by an Act of the Parliament of Ireland.[3] Banagh is bordered by the baronies of Boylagh to the north, Raphoe South to the northeast, and Tirhugh to the east.[4] Donegal Bay is to the south, and the open Atlantic Ocean to the west.[4] Settlements in the barony include Ardara,[5] Carrick,[5] Donegal,[5] Dunkineely,[5] Frosses,[6] Glencolumbkille,[5] Inver,[6] Killybegs,[5] Kilcar,[5] Mountcharles,[5] and Teelin.[6] Other features in the barony include Lough Eske,[7] Slieve League,[8] and the Bluestack Mountains.[8] The barony is thus described in the Parliamentary Gazetteer of 1846:[9] A large part of it consists of a peninsula 14½ miles in length, and 6½ in mean breadth, very nearly insulated by streams which fall into the head respectively of Killybegs Harbour and Loughrosbeg bay, and extending westward to the seaward face of Slieveleague mountain, and to the plunge into the Atlantic of Tillen Head, the most westerly ground in the mainland of Donegal. Several marine indentations, generally tongue-shaped or elongated, indent the coast, and serrate it with small peninsulae; the principal of which are Loughrosbeg bay on the west, and Tillen harbour, Killybegs harbour, Macswine's bay, and Inver bay, on the south. Nearly the whole of the interior is a series of granitic uplands, alternating with wild moors or dismal bogs. Several of the mountains have an altitude above sea-level of 1,600 feet; and Slieveleague, near the extremity of the great peninsula, has an elevation of 1,964 feet, rises boldly up from the coast of the entrance of Donegal bay, and, as seen from the opposite sea-board of Sligo, forms a very remarkable feature in a boldly outlined landscape. The skirts of Slieveleague, the precipitous stoop of Teelin Head, and a considerable extent of intervening and prolonged cliff-line, suffer furious onsets from the roll and tempests of the Atlantic; present a shaggy, rugged, rocky exterior, deeply riven with the waves; and compose a series of alternately impressive and romantic coast-views. About 30,000 acres of the barony belong to the Marquis of Conyngham; and a tract which belongs to the University of Dublin is said to have been so leased as to yield an annual rental profit of £9,000 to the lessee. This barony contains part of the parishes of Inniskeel and Lower Killybegs, and the whole of the parishes of Glencolumbkill, Inver, Kilcarr, Killaghtee, Upper Killybegs, and Killymard. Banagh 531 References From "Irish placenames database" [10] (in English and Irish). logainm.ie. Department of Community, Rural and Gaeltacht Affairs. Retrieved 11 August 2010.: [1] Banagh (http:/ / www. logainm. ie/ ?uiLang=en& typeID=BAR& placeID=54) [2] Joyce, P.W. (1902). "Banagh" (http:/ / www. archive. org/ stream/ irishlocalnamese00joycuoft#page/ 18/ mode/ 2up/ search/ Bawnagh). Irish Local Names Explained. Dublin: Gill & Son. p. 18. . Retrieved 15 April 2010. [3] 1791 (31 Geo. 3) c. 48 "An Act for the Division of Certain Baronies of Great Extent in the Counties of Donegal and Meath" [4] Joyce, P.W. (1897). "County Donegal" (http:/ / www. maproom. org/ 00/ 21/ present. php?m=0008). Philips' Handy Atlas of the Counties of Ireland. London: George Philips & Son. p. 8. . [5] Banagh: towns (http:/ / www. logainm. ie/ Children. aspx??uiLang=en& parentID=54& typeID=B) [6] Banagh: population centres (http:/ / www. logainm. ie/ Children. aspx??uiLang=en& parentID=54& typeID=ID) [7] Banagh: lakes (http:/ / www. logainm. ie/ Children. aspx??uiLang=en& parentID=54& typeID=L) [8] Banagh: mountains and mountain ranges (http:/ / www. logainm. ie/ Children. aspx??uiLang=en& parentID=54& typeID=SL) [9] "Bannagh" (http:/ / books. google. com/ books?id=9rblf03SdkYC& vq=Banagh& pg=PA217#q=Banagh& f=false). The Parliamentary Gazetteer of Ireland adapted to the new Poor-Law, Franchise, Municipal and Ecclesiastical arrangements ... as existing in 1844–45. I: A–C. Dublin: A. Fullarton & Co. 1846. p. 217. . [10] http:/ / www. logainm. ie/ Children. aspx?uiLang=en From other sources: Boylagh Boylagh (Irish: Baollaigh[1]) is a barony in County Donegal in Ireland. Patrick Weston Joyce said the name Boylagh comes from the territory of the O'Boyles.[2] It was created along with Banagh when the former barony of Boylagh and Banagh was split in 1791 by an Act of the Parliament of Ireland.[3] Boylagh is bordered by the baronies of Kilmacrenan to the north east, Rapboe South to the east, and Banagh to the south; to the north and west is the Atlantic Ocean..[4] Settlements in the barony include Annagary,[5] Burtonport,[5] Doochary,[6] Dungloe,[5] Glenties,[5] Kilrean,[6] Lettermacaward,[6] Portnoo,[6] and Rinnafarset.[5] Other features include the island of Arranmore.[7] The barony is thus described in the Parliamentary Gazetteer of 1846:[8] It includes the district of the Rosses in the north, and 12 inhabited islands, besides islets and insulated rocks, off the west coast. The estuaries of the Guidore and the Guibarra, the bays of Dungloe and Tyrenagh, and numerous unnavigable sandy marine inlets, cut its seaboard into a constant and intricate series of variously outlined peninsulae. A great undulating plain or champaign territory of granite constitutes its western district, and exhibits an irksome and almost uniform surface of dark peat, dotted with loughlets or ponds, and slightly variegated with patches of tillage around the cabins. Crovehy, whose summit has an altitude of 1,033 feet above sea-level, is the highest ground in this wild and dreary tract, and the small and utterly sequestered village of Dunglow, is almost the only apology for a town. The eastern district is a mass or congeries of uplands, cloven by glens and ravines This barony comprehends part of the parishes of Inniskeel and Lower Killybegs, and the whole of the parishes of Lettermacward and Templecroan; and its chief villages are Glenties and Dungloe. Boylagh References From "Irish placenames database" [10] (in English and Irish). logainm.ie. Department of Community, Rural and Gaeltacht Affairs. Retrieved 11 August 2010.: [1] Boylagh (http:/ / www. logainm. ie/ ?uiLang=en& typeID=BAR& placeID=56) [2] Joyce, P.W. (1902). "Boylagh" (http:/ / www. archive. org/ stream/ irishlocalnamese00joycuoft#page/ 20/ mode/ 2up/ search/ Boylagh). Irish Local Names Explained. Dublin: Gill & Son. p. 18. . Retrieved 15 April 2010. [3] 1791 (31 Geo. 3) c. 48 "An Act for the Division of Certain Baronies of Great Extent in the Counties of Donegal and Meath" [4] Joyce, P.W. (1897). "County Donegal" (http:/ / www. maproom. org/ 00/ 21/ present. php?m=0008). Philips' Handy Atlas of the Counties of Ireland. London: George Philips & Son. p. 8. . [5] Boylagh: towns (http:/ / www. logainm. ie/ Children. aspx??uiLang=en& parentID=56& typeID=B) [6] Boylagh: population centres (http:/ / www. logainm. ie/ Children. aspx??uiLang=en& parentID=56& typeID=ID) [7] Boylagh: islands (http:/ / www. logainm. ie/ Children. aspx??uiLang=en& parentID=56& typeID=OIL) [8] "Boylagh" (http:/ / books. google. com/ books?id=9rblf03SdkYC& vq=Boylagh& pg=PA270#q=Boylagh& f=false). The Parliamentary Gazetteer of Ireland adapted to the new Poor-Law, Franchise, Municipal and Ecclesiastical arrangements ... as existing in 1844–45. I: A–C. Dublin: A. Fullarton & Co. 1846. pp. 270–1. . From other sources: 532 Kilmacrenan 533 Kilmacrenan Kilmacrennan Cill Mhic nÉanáin — Town — Kilmacrennan village Kilmacrennan Location in Ireland Coordinates: 55°01′47″N 7°46′43″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Government • Dáil Éireann Donegal North–East Population (2006) • Total 1209 Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC-1) Irish Grid Reference C166178 [1] Kilmacrenan 534 Kilmacrennan (Gaelic: Cill Mhic nÉanáin or Cill Mhic Réanáin [2]) is a small village located in County Donegal, Ireland. The village had a population of 430 in the 2002 census, however the village's population has increased steadily over the last decade with many new housing developments and overspill of the population in Letterkenny. Location Kilmacrennan is 8km (approximately 6 minutes) on the N56 from Letterkenny, which is the largest town in County Donegal. The village's name 'Cill Mhic nEanain' means 'the church of the sons of Eanan'. Industry North West Aluminium manufacture and produce a large range of aluminium & pvc roofline trims. They recently won the Donegal County Enterprise, 'Business of the year 2008' award at a black tie ceremony.The main place to stay is the 1 star hotel called the Anglers Haven and Duffys Tea Rooms were you can get a lift with Danny on the Tractor. Also a very top notch take-away called the Tasty Tucker provides luxury food, with top quality French chefs. Rivers Two rivers flow through the village, the Lennon and the Lurgy. Traditionally, the river Lennon was renowned for salmon fishing; however, the salmon numbers have dropped dramatically in recent years. Most anglers blame pollution for this. The salmon and trout population is slowing increasing but will take a number of years for it to reach its old level. Amenities There are 2 pubs in the village: The Village Court, The Anglers Haven, a post office, a supermarket and filling station, Millbridge Meats butchers, Cut n Styles hairdressers, and at the thatched cottage, a fruit and veg stall and chip van. There is also the Hilltop Cafe and Take-Away located in the centre of the village. There are 3 churches in the Village: a Catholic church and St.Finian and St.Mark's Church of Ireland. There is also a Presbyterian Church in the townland of Leiter about 3 miles from the village. Work has recently finished on the long awaited The crossroads on Kilmacrennan main street. new National School which is located across from the old school and Catholic Church. There are approximately 154 pupils attending. It opened for the first time on 31 March 2008. Kilmacrenan References [1] http:/ / getamap. ordnancesurvey. co. uk/ getamap/ frames. htm?mapAction=gaz& gazName=g& gazString=C166178 [2] Bunachar Logainmneacha na hÉireann/Placenames Database of Ireland (http:/ / www. logainm. ie/ ?text=Kilmacrenan) External links • St. Colmcille's National school Reunion- 10th and 11th August 2007 (http://www.kilmacrennanschoolreunion. ie) 535 Slieve League 536 Slieve League Slieve League Sliabh Liag Elevation 601 m (1972 ft) Listing Marilyn Location Location County Donegal, Republic of Ireland OSI/OSNI grid G544784 [1] Slieve League, sometimes Slieve Leag or Slieve Liag (Irish: Sliabh Liag),[2] is a mountain on the Atlantic coast of County Donegal, Republic of Ireland. At 601 metres (unknown operator: u'strong' ft), it has some of the highest sea cliffs on the island of Ireland. Although less famous than the Cliffs of Moher in County Clare, Slieve League's cliffs reach almost three times higher. The Belfast naturalist Robert Lloyd Praeger wrote in 1939: A tall mountain of nearly 2000 feet, precipitous on its northern side, has been devoured by the sea till the southern face forms a precipice likewise, descending on this side right into the Atlantic from the long knife-edge which forms the summit. The traverse of this ridge, the "One Man's Path", is one of the most remarkable walks to be found in Ireland - not actually dangerous, but needing a good head and careful progress on a stormy day....The northern precipice, which drops 1500 feet into the coomb surrounding the Little Lough Agh, harbours the majority of the alpine plants of Slieve League, the most varied group of alpines to be found anywhere in Donegal.[3] Road to viewpoint Slieve League panorama several places where it turns at the crest of a rise. Slieve League is often photographed from a viewpoint known as Bunglass. It can be reached by means of a narrow road that departs from Teelin. The final few kilometers of this memorable route is built along a precipice and includes Slieve League 537 Image gallery Slieve League's eastern end One Man's Path The entrance to One Man's Path Looking down Across the top References [1] http:/ / getamap. ordnancesurvey. co. uk/ getamap/ frames. htm?mapAction=gaz& gazName=g& gazString=G544784 [2] Marshall, David (2006). Best walks in Ireland. London: Frances Lincoln, p. 139. ISBN 978-0-7112-2420-9. [3] Praeger, Robert Lloyd (1997). The way that I went: an Irishman in Ireland. Cork: Collins Press, p. 41. ISBN 978-1-898256-35-9. Downings 538 Downings Downings Na Dúnaibh — Village — Downings Location in Ireland Coordinates: 55°11′40″N 7°50′11″W Country Ireland Province Ulster County County Donegal Time zone WET (UTC+0) • Summer (DST) IST (WEST) (UTC-1) Irish Grid Reference B847228 [1] Downings or Downies (Irish: Na Dúnaibh)[1][2][3] is a Gaeltacht village and townland on the Rosguill peninsula in County Donegal, Ireland. Downings Name As the village is in a Gaeltacht district, its official name is the Irish Na Dúnaibh. The name is ambiguous and could refer to the wealth of hill forts in the area, or it could be a hibernicisation of the English name, to describe the sandy dunes connecting the peninsula to the mainland. Economy Downings used to be a significant fishing port with a substantial herring fleet. Today, however, the economy survives on tourism, and only three crab boats make a traditional living from the sea. Situated as it is in in Sheephaven Bay, one of the safest anchorages on the northwest Irish coast, Downings has begun to cater for international game fishermen, the northwest of Ireland being on the migration route of bluefin tuna and other game species. History In 2007, local divers recovered a bow gun from the S.S. Laurentic. The gun is now mounted beside Downings pier. Recreation The dunes that connect the Rosguill peninsula to the mainland are also home to the Rosapenna Links course designed by Old Tom Morris, and although the original hotel and clubhouse that was patronised by the likes of John Wayne and Errol Flynn burnt down in the sixties, the new buildings seek to emulate the charm of the originals. Downings is the start and finish of the Atlantic Drive, one of the most dramatic scenic routes in Ireland. People • Philip Boyce, Bishop of Raphoe • Maxi Curran, Gaelic football manager[4] References [1] Downings village. (http:/ / www. logainm. ie/ 1412969. aspx) Placenames Database of Ireland. Retrieved: 2011-12-19. [2] Downings townland. (http:/ / www. logainm. ie/ 16054. aspx) Placenames Database of Ireland. Retrieved: 2011-12-19. [3] Placenames (Ceantair Ghaeltachta) Order 2004 (http:/ / www. commissioner. ie/ downloads/ An_tOrdu_Logainmneacha_(Ceantair_Ghaeltachta)_2004. pdf). [4] "Maxi Curran takes up reins as U-21 manager" (http:/ / www. donegaldemocrat. ie/ sport/ local-sport/ maxi-curran-takes-up-reins-as-u-21-manager-1-3444478). Donegal Democrat. 21 January 2012. . Retrieved 21 January 2012. "Curran from Downings and a member of Jim McGuinness’s senior management team, takes over from McGuinness who stepped down at the end of last season." External links • Fishing from Downings (http://www.fishingdonegal.com/) • Downings GAA Club (http://www.angelfire.com/sports/downingsgaa/) • HMS Laurentic (http://www.laurentic.com/) 539 Dolmen 540 Dolmen A dolmen, also known as a portal tomb, portal grave, or quoit, is a type of single-chamber megalithic tomb, usually consisting of three or more upright stones supporting a large flat horizontal capstone (table). Most date from the early Neolithic period (4000 to 3000 BC). Dolmens were usually covered with earth or smaller stones to form a barrow, though in many cases that covering has weathered away, leaving only the stone "skeleton" of the burial mound intact. It remains unclear when, why, and by whom the earliest dolmens were made. The oldest known dolmen are in Western Europe, where they were set in place around 7000 years ago, at the same time as the ancient civilisations of Egypt, India, and the Middle East. Archaeologists still do not know who erected these dolmens, which makes it difficult to know why they did it. The most widely accepted theory is that all dolmen are tombs or burial chambers. Human remains, sometimes accompanied by artefacts, have been found in or close to them, which allowed a scientific dating. There is however no firm evidence that even this theory is correct. It has been impossible to prove that these archeologic remains date back to the time when the stones were set in place.[1] Circassian dolmen near the Zhane river, Russia Etymology The term dolmen originates from the expression taol maen, which means "stone table" in Breton, and was first used archaeologically in Théophile Corret de la Tour d'Auvergne's Origines gauloises.[2] The etymology of the German Hünenbett or Hünengrab and Dutch Hunebed all evoke the image of giants building the structures. Of other Celtic languages, cromlech derives from Welsh and quoit is Dolmen in Salvatierra, Spain commonly used in Cornwall. Anta is the term used in Portugal and Galicia, Spain. Dös or dyss is used in Sweden. Since all the names come from languages used long after the dolmens were erected, they don't indicate the intentions of the civilisations that constructed them.[3] Dolmens are known by a variety of names in other languages including dolmain (Irish), cromlech (Welsh), anta (Portuguese and Galician), Hünengrab/Hünenbett (German), Adamra (Abkhazian), Ispun (Circassian), Hunebed (Dutch), dysse (Danish and Norwegian), dös (Swedish), and goindol (Korean). Dolmen 541 Dolmen di Avola (SR), Italia Poulnabrone dolmen in the Burren, County Clare, Ireland Kilclooney dolmen near Ardara in County Donegal, Ireland Dolmen 542 Dolmen sites T-shaped Hunebed D27 in Borger-Odoorn, Netherlands. Dólmen da Aboboreira, Baião, Portugal. The dolmen Er-Roc'h-Feutet in Carnac, Brittany, France. Crucuno dolmen in Plouharnel, Brittany, France. Lancken-Granitz dolmen, Germany Europe Megalithic tombs are found from the Baltic Sea and North Sea coasts south to Spain and Portugal. Hunebedden are chamber tombs similar to dolmens and date to the middle Neolithic (Funnelbeaker culture, 4th millennium BC). They consist of a kerb surrounding an oval mound, which covered a rectangular chamber of stones with the entrance on one of the long sides. Some have a more complex layout and include an entrance passage giving them a T-shape. It has been suggested that this means they are related to the passage graves found in Denmark and elsewhere. Dolmen Dolmen sites fringe the Irish Sea and are found in south-east Ireland, Wales, Devon and Cornwall. In Ireland, however, more dolmens are found on the west coast, particularly in the Burren—and Connemara, which includes some of the better-known examples, such as Poulnabrone dolmen. Examples have also been found in northern Ireland, where they may have co-existed with the court cairn tombs. Some believe the dolmens evolved from a simpler cist burial method. Many examples appear on the Channel Islands of Jersey and Guernsey, such as La Pouquelaye de Faldouet, La Sergenté, and La Hougue des Géonnais. The term Houge derives from the Old Norse word haugr, meaning a mound or barrow. The most famous of these sites is La Hougue Bie, a 6,000 year old neolithic site that sits inside a large mound; later a chapel was built on the top of the mound.[4] Amongst the vast Neolithic collections of the Carnac stones in Brittany, France, several dozen dolmens are found. And all around the country, several dolmens still stand, such as the ones of Passebonneau and des Gorces near Saint-Benoît-du-Sault. Various menhirs and dolmens are located around the Mediterranean islands of Malta and Gozo. Pottery uncovered in these structures allowed the attribution of the monuments to the Tarxien cemetery culture of the Early Bronze Age.[5] This later culture is not to be confused with the Neolithic inhabitants of Malta, who built the Tarxien Temples circa 3100 BC. In France, important megalithic zones are situated in Brittany, Vendée, Quercy and in the south of France (Languedoc, Rouergue and Corsica). More than 10,000 dolmens and menhirs cover a large part of the country (west and south). Importants menhirs alignments in Brittany (Carnac's alignments count more than 1,000 menhirs) In Spain dolmens can be found in Galicia (such as Axeitos, pictured below), Basque Country and Navarre (like the Sorgin Etxea) and the basque name for theme is Trikuharri or Jentiletxe, Catalonia (like Cova d'en Daina or Creu d'en Cobertella), Andalusia (like the Cueva de Menga) and Extremadura (like "Dolmen de Lácara"). Dolmens can be found across Portugal, from simple ones [6] to the more complex examples of megalithic architecture, such as the Almendres Cromlech or the Anta Grande do Zambujeiro. In Mecklenburg and Pomerania/Pomorze in (Germany) and (Poland), Drenthe (Netherlands), large numbers of these graves were disturbed when harbours, towns, and cities were built. The boulders were used in construction and road building. There are still many thousands left today in Europe. In Italy dolmens can be found in Apulia, Sardinia and in Sicily where they are located in Mura Pregne (Palermo), Sciacca (Agrigento), Monte Bubbonia (Caltanissetta), Butera (Caltanissetta), Cava Lazzaro (Siracusa), Cava dei Servi (Ragusa), Avola (Siracusa).[7] In Turkey, there are some dolmens in the Regions of Lalapasa and Suloglu in the Province of Edirne and the Regions of KOfcaz, Kirklareli and Demirkoy in the Province of Kirklareli, in the Eastern Thrace. They have been studied by Prof. Dr. Engin Beksaç, since 2004. And also, some of so-called monuments are in the different regions of Anatolia, in Turkey. There are interesting dolmens in the regions related to the Sakar and Rhodope and Strandzha Mountains in Bulgaria. The largest dolmen in Europe is the Brownshill Dolmen in County Carlow, Ireland. Its capstone weighs about 150 tonnes.[8] Lanyon Quoit is a dolmen in Cornwall, 2 miles southeast of Morvah. It stands next to the road leading from Madron to Morvah. The capstone rested at 7 feet high with dimensions of 9 feet by 17.5 feet weighing 13.5 tons. 543 Dolmen 544 Asia Korea The largest concentration of dolmen in the world is found on the Korean peninsula. In fact, with an estimated 35,000 dolmen Korea counts for nearly 40% of the world’s total. The largest distribution is on the west coast area of South Korea. The Korean word for dolmen is goindol' (hangul:고인돌). It took a long time before serious studies of the Korean megalithic monuments were made. After 1945 new research was conducted mostly by Korean scholars. Korean dolmen have a different morphology than the more widely Dolmen at Ganghwa, Republic of Korea. known Atlantic European dolmen.[9] In 1981 a curator of Seoul's National Museum of Korea, Gon-Gil Ji, classified Korean dolmen into two types which he called northern and southern. He put the boundary between these at about the North Han River although both groups can be found on both sides. Northern style dolmens are above ground with a four sided chamber and a megalithic roof (also referred to as table type), while southern style (usually but not always underground) are made up of a stone chest or pit covered by a slab.[10] Another typology divides them into 3 main types, the table type, the go-table type and the unsupported capstone type. The dolmen in Ganghwa is a northern-type, table-shaped dolmen and is the biggest stone of this kind in South Korea, measuring 2.6 by 7.1 by 5.5 metres. There are many sub-types and different styles.[11] Southern type dolmen are associated with burials but the reason for building northern style dolmen is uncertain.[12][13] Due to the vast numbers and great variation in styles, it has not been possible yet to establish an absolute chronology of dolmens in Korea. It is generally accepted that the Korean megalithic culture emerged from the late Neolithic age, which brought agriculture to the peninsula, and existed throughout the Bronze Age. Thus, it is estimated that the Korean dolmens were built in the first millennium BC. Another important question remains unanswered. It cannot be said with certainty from where the megalithic culture of Korea originated, and therefore it is difficult to define its true cultural character. Northern style dolmens are found in Manchuria and the Shandong Peninsula. Although found in smaller numbers outside of Korea, they are often considerably larger than Korean dolmen.[14] Yet it is unclear why this culture only flourished so extensively on the Korean peninsula in the area of Northeastern Asia. Gochang Dolmen, a table-style dolmen Hongseong Dolmen, a dissection-style dolmen Dolmen 545 India There are also dolmens in Kerala, South India, about 7 km from Marayoor near the small village of Pius Nagar, also known as Alinchuvad. These dolmens are set in clusters of two to five dolmens presumably for the burial of a family. There are hundreds of such dolmen clusters in the area. Apart from overground dolmens, underground burial chambers built with dressed stone slabs have also been discovered in Marayoor. All these dolmens are made from heavy granite slabs, mined using primitive technology. This was a burial ground for several centuries for a noble tribal dynasty known as Adi Dolmens of Marayoor in Kerala, South India Cheras, the royal family, which rose as a paramount power in South India in the first century. The Adi Chera tribe traded with the Egyptian and Roman empires of the time. Most of the overground dolmens found in Alinchuvad were made before the Iron Age since no tools were used to dress the granite slabs. On a nearby hill tool-made granite dolmens are also seen. One is underground and the other is overground. The overground dolmen of this type was not used for burial. The length of the dolmens range from 11 feet (unknown Dolmens of Marayoor operator: u'strong' m) to 4 feet (unknown operator: u'strong' m). There are scores of 4 feet (unknown operator: u'strong' m) versions of underground type. They had two earthenware pots, one containing the ornaments and weapons of the individual and the other contained the cremation remains. Such underground dolmens are located in various places, including Chelamala, in Ernakulam District, Mattathipara]], Muniyara and Panapilavu in the district of Idukki in Kerala State, where Marayoor also is located. It appears that the tribe continued to use this burial practice until the tribe was destroyed in the beginning of third century. Middle East Dolmens are also found in Israel, Syria and Jordan. Numerous large dolmens can be viewed in the Israeli National park at Gamla. There are many examples of flint dolmens in the historical villages of Johfiyeh and Natifah in northern Jordan. The greatest number of dolmens are around Madaba, like the ones at Al Faiha village, 10 km to the west of Madaba city see Madaba dolmens [15]. Two dolmens are in Hisbone, and the most have been found at Zarqa Ma'in at Al-Murayghat, which are being destroyed by gravel quarries see where have all the dolmens gone? [16] . Flint Dolmen in Johfiyeh, Jordan Flint Dolmen in Johfiyeh, Jordan Dolmen Eurasia (North Western Caucasus) Circassia Over 3,000 dolmens and other structures can be found in the North-Western Caucasus region in Russia, where more and more dolmens are discovered in the mountains each year. References [1] Guide to the Menhirs and other Megaliths of Central Brittany, Lewis S., 2009, Nezert Books, ISBN 978-952-270-595-2 [2] Corret de la Tour d'Auvergne, Origines gauloises. Celles des plus anciens peuples de l'Europe puisées dans leur vraie source ou recherche sur la langue, l'origine et les antiquités des Celto-bretons de l'Armorique, pour servir à l'histoire ancienne et moderne de ce peuple et à celle des Français, 1792-97. [3] Des Dolmens pour les Morts, Joussaume R., 1985, Hachette, ISBN 2-01-008877-8 [4] The Scandinavian Contribution in Normandy (http:/ / www. viking. no/ e/ france/ contribution. html) [5] Journal of European Archaeology (JEA), 5 (1997); Emilia Pásztor and Curt Roslund: Orientation of Maltese dolmens. [6] http:/ / commons. wikimedia. org/ wiki/ Dolmen#Portugal [7] Salvatore Piccolo, Antiche Pietre. La cultura dei dolmen nella Preistoria della Sicilia sud-orientale, Morrone ed., Siracusa 2007; see also http:/ / www. megalithic. co. uk/ user. php?op=userinfo& uname=Salvatore [8] Weir, A (1980). Early Ireland. A Field Guide. Belfast: Blackstaff Press. p. 101. [9] Joussaume, Roger Dolmens for the Dead Batsford Ltd (Jan 1988) ISBN 978-0-7134-5369-0 p. 141–142 [10] Joussaume, Roger Dolmens for the Dead Batsford Ltd (Jan 1988) ISBN 978-0-7134-5369-0 p. 141–142 [11] Megalithic Cultures in Asia, Kim Byung-mo, 1982, Hanyang University Press [12] Joussaume, Roger Dolmens for the Dead Batsford Ltd (Jan 1988) ISBN 978-0-7134-5369-0 p. 141–142 [13] Holcombe, Charles (2010). A History of East Asia: From the Origins of Civilization to the Twenty-First Century (http:/ / books. google. co. uk/ books?id=rHeb7wQu0xIC& pg=PA79& lpg=PA79& dq=dolmens+ Korea& source=bl& ots=R5z9ZD-u_4& sig=YqTrENNYaah0DHx8AxVDxOu7d3A& hl=en& sa=X& ei=sTUnUJ_eMeLO0QWApYHACg& ved=0CEsQ6AEwBTgK#v=onepage& q=dolmens Korea& f=false). Cambridge University Press. p. 79. ISBN 978-0521515955. . [14] Joussaume, Roger Dolmens for the Dead Batsford Ltd (Jan 1988) ISBN 978-0-7134-5369-0 p. 280 [15] http:/ / www. youtube. com/ watch?v=pdI37Izo4UM [16] http:/ / www. youtube. com/ watch?v=X5qv06H7AwA Sources • Trifonov, V., 2006. Russia's megaliths: unearthing the lost prehistoric tombs of Caucasian warlords in the Zhane valley. St.Petersburg: The Institute for Study of Material Culture History, Russian Academy of Sciences. Available from (http://www.archeo.ru/eng/themes/dolmens/) • Kudin, M., 2001. Dolmeni i ritual. Dolmen Path - Russian Megaliths. Available from (http://megalith.ru/ articles/) • Knight, Peter. Ancient Stones of Dorset, 1996. External links • • • • • • • • • Dolmens of Dorset (http://www.stoneseeker.net) Some monuments with QTVR panoramic views in Archeologia Sarda (http://www.archeologiasarda.com) Dolmens, Menhirs & Stones-Circles in the South of France (http://prehist.free.fr/) in French and English Pictures of Hunebedden in the Netherlands (http://members.home.nl/jbmeijer/hunepic.htm) (Dutch) Poulnabrone Dolmen in the Burren, County Clare, Ireland (http://www.burrenforts.ie/mainj/dolmen.htm) Dolmen (Goindol) sites in Korea (http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/977)PDF on UNESCO's World Heritage List. Dolmen Pictures (http://members.chello.nl/r.j.triest/dolmens.html) by Robert Triest. Russian Megaliths (http://www.megalith.ru/) Jersey Heritage Trust (http://www.jerseyheritagetrust.org/sites/hougue bie/hougue.html) • Legananny Dolmen, Ireland (http://www.geographyinaction.co.uk/Assets/Photo_albums/Eleven/pages/ Legananny Dolmen.html) • World heritage site of dolmen in Korea (http://www.heritage.go.kr/eng/her/her_08.jsp) • The Megalithic Portal and Megalith Map (http://www.megalithic.co.uk) 546 Dolmen • Goindol: Dolmen of Korea (http://www.sebastianschutyser.com/engels/dolmen.html) • Research Centre of Dolmens in Northeast Asia (http://www.idolmen.org) Acadamh na hOllscolaíochta Gaeilge Acadamh na hOllscolaíochta Gaeilge (English: The Gaelic University Academy) was established under the auspices of the National University of Ireland, Galway in 2004, to develop Gaelic-medium education. An tAcadamh works in co-operation with faculties, departments and other university offices to develop the range and number of programmes that are provided through the medium of Irish Gaelic on campus and in the Acadamh’s Gaeltacht centres in An Cheathrú Rua, Carna and Gaoth Dobhair. External links • Acadamh na hOllscolaíochta Gaeilge [1] References [1] http:/ / www. nuigalway. ie/ generic/ language_toggle. php?language=gaeilge 547 Mount Errigal 548 Mount Errigal Errigal An Earagail A view of Errigal from Gweedore. Elevation 751 m (2464 ft) Prominence 688 m (2257 ft) Listing Marilyn, Hewitt [1][2] [1] Location Location County Donegal, Republic of Ireland Range Derryveagh Mountains OSI/OSNI grid B928207 [3] Topo map OSi Discovery 1 Mount Errigal, or simply Errigal (Irish: An Earagail, possibly meaning "oratory")[1] is a 751-metre (unknown operator: u'strong' ft) mountain near Gweedore in County Donegal, Republic of Ireland.[1] It is the tallest peak of the Derryveagh Mountains, the tallest peak in County Donegal, and the 76th tallest peak in Ireland.[1] Errigal is also the most southern, steepest and highest of the mountain chain, called the "Seven Sisters" by locals. The Seven Sisters includes Muckish, Crocknalaragagh, Aghla Beg, Ardloughnabrackbaddy, Aghla More, Mackoght and Errigal. The nearest peak is Mackoght, which is also known as Little Errigal or Wee Errigal (Irish: an Earagail Bheag). Errigal is well known for the pinkish glow of its quartzite in the setting sun.[1] Another noted quality is the ever-changing shape of the mountain depending on what direction you view it from. Errigal was voted 'Ireland's Most Iconic Mountain' by Walking & Hiking Ireland in 2009.[4] Climbing Errigal The mountain is most often climbed from the carpark off the R251 road. The route initially crosses heavily eroded and boggy land towards a visible track through the shiny scree from where the ascent proper starts. After reaching the summit, people usually walk the short but exposed walk along ‘One Man’s Pass’ which leads across to the second and lower of the twin summits. No special equipment is needed to climb the mountain, but caution is advised. In popular culture • In the 2008 film Hunger, the main protagonist Bobby Sands describes Errigal as a "beautiful sight". • Images of a misty Errigal were used in the music video for In A Lifetime by Clannad and Bono in 1985.[5] It has also appeared in numerous music videos by local singer Enya, most notably in the video for "How Can I Keep From Singing?". • Several scenes from the 2011 movie Your Highness were shot on Errigal.[6] Mount Errigal 549 • The Goats Don't Shave song "Las Vegas (In the Hills of Donegal)" contains the line, "To stand on top of Errigal, would give me such a thrill". Panoramic view of Errigal's summit. Gallery The view from Errigal. Errigal as seen from Slieve Snaght. Ascending Mount Errigal. An aerial view of Errigal and Gweedore. Derelict church at the foot of Errigal. Errigal as seen from Cloughaneely. Errigal as seen from The Rosses. References [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] MountainViews (http:/ / mountainviews. ie/ summit/ 76/ ) Peakbagger (http:/ / www. peakbagger. com/ peak. aspx?pid=8927) http:/ / getamap. ordnancesurvey. co. uk/ getamap/ frames. htm?mapAction=gaz& gazName=g& gazString=B928207 http:/ / www. walkingandhikingireland. com/ ?p=3 http:/ / www. clannad. net/ concertoverview. htm http:/ / homepage. eircom. net/ ~weebinnians2/ webpages/ Newsletters/ Newsletter%2020090913_FestivalEdition. htm References Cloughaneely 550 Cloughaneely Cloughaneely (official name: Cloch Cheann Fhaola)[1] is a district in the west of County Donegal, Ireland. This is a mainly coastal area with a population of over 5,000 centred on the town of Falcarragh and Gortahork. and it is a Gaeltacht area, meaning the Irish language is spoken as the primary language.[2] Cloughaneely includes the secondary school Pobalscoil Chloich Gheann Fhaola, with over 500 students. Places of interest include Cnoc na Naomh, considered to be a mountain with religious significance.[3] Cloughaneely, the Rosses and Gweedore, known locally as the three parishes" with 16,000 Irish speakers', together form a social and A sign indicating the beginning of Cloughaneely. cultural region different from the rest of the county, with Gweedore serving as the main centre for socialising and industry.[4] Name The name Cloch Cheann Fhaola (also written Cloich Chionnaola, meaning "the Stone of Faoil's Head") comes from a story which tells of the killing of Faoil. The story says that Balor of the Evil Eye beheaded Faoil on a rock because Faoil stole the Cow of Plenty from Balor and brought it back to the mainland from Tory. Townlands in Cloughaneely • Ballyness (Baile an Easa) • Ballingat (Baile an Gheata) • Ballyconnell (Baile Chonaill) • Ballytemple (Baile an Teampaill) • • • • Caoldroim Íochtarach (Lower Keeldrum) Caoldrum lar (Middle Keeldrum) Caoldrum Thuas ( Upper Keeldrum) Derryconnor (Doire Chonaire) • Falcarragh (An Fál Carrach) • Gortahork (Gort an Choirce) • Killult (Cill Ulta) • Magheroarty (Machaire Rabhartaigh) • Meenlaragh (Mín Lárach) • An Sruthán Riach A scenic view of Machaire Rabhartaigh strand and Muckish mountain, Cloughaneely. Cloughaneely 551 Islands • Inishbofin (Inis Bó Finne) • Tory Island (Oileán Thoraigh) Notable people from Cloughaneely • Cathal Ó Searcaigh, poet • Micí Mac Gabhann, memoirist References [1] Placenames (Ceantair Ghaeltachta) Order 2004 (http:/ / www. commissioner. ie/ downloads/ An_tOrdu_Logainmneacha_(Ceantair_Ghaeltachta)_2004. pdf). [2] Places (http:/ / www. donegallibrary. ie/ memory/ places. htm) [3] http:/ / www. tartanplace. com/ faery/ gods/ coll. html [4] http:/ / www. gaelsaoire. ie/ therosses Inishowen Inishowen (Irish: Inis Eoghain, meaning "Island of Eoghan") is a peninsula in County Donegal, Ireland. It is also the largest peninsula in all of the island of Ireland. Inishowen is a picturesque location with a rich history. The peninsula includes Irelands' most northerly point, Malin Head, along with Lagg sand dunes, some of the highest in Europe, as well as Grianán an Aileach, a royal fort constructed by the Clan Uí Néill in the sixth century. The Grianán stands at the entrance to the peninsula. Towns of Inishowen The main towns and villages of Inishowen are: • Ballyliffin, Buncrana, Bridgend, Burnfoot, Burt • Carndonagh, Carrowmenagh, Clonmany, Culdaff • Dunaff • Fahan • Glengad, Gleneely, Greencastle • Killea • Malin, Malin Head, Moville, Muff • Newtowncunningham • Redcastle • Quigley's Point Location of Inishowen (in red) Inishowen 552 Geography Inishowen is a peninsula of 884.33 square kilometres (218,523 acres), situated in the northernmost part of Ireland. It is bordered to the north by the Atlantic Ocean, to the east by Lough Foyle, and to the west by Lough Swilly. It is joined at the south to the rest of County Donegal, the part known as Tír Conaill, and by County Londonderry. Historically, the area of County Londonderry west of the River Foyle also forms part of Inishowen, the Foyle forming a natural border. After the last ice age it was an island. Most of Inishowen's population inhabit the peripheral coastal areas, while the interior consists of low mountains, mostly covered in bogland, the highest of which is "Sliabh Inishowen peninsula Sneacht" (from the Irish, meaning Snow Mountain) which is 619 metres (2,030 feet) above sea level. Other major hills are located in the Malin Head peninsula, as well as the Urris Hills in west Inishowen. Due to its geography, Inishowen usually has relatively more moderate weather conditions, with temperatures slightly lower than other parts of Ireland in summer, and slightly warmer in winter, especially during periods of extended cold weather. Looking across the mouth of Lough Foyle to Dunagree Point and Inishowen Head. Inishowen has several harbours, some of which are used for commercial fishing purposes, including Greencastle, Bunagee and Leenan. A seasonal ferry service crosses the Foyle, connecting Greencastle with Magilligan in County Londonderry, while another crosses the Swilly, connecting Buncrana with Rathmullan. The village of Fahan has a privately built marina. There are several small outlying islands off the Inishowen coast, most notably Inishtrahull and Glashedy islands, both uninhabited, although the former was inhabited until the early twentieth century. Inch, located in Lough Swilly, is technically no longer an island, as it has a causeway connecting it to the mainland at Tooban, south of Fahan. Lough Swilly is a fjord-like lough, and was of strategic importance for many years to the British Empire as a deep-water harbour. It is also famous as the departure point of the Flight of the Earls. Lough Foyle is important as the entrance to the river Foyle, and the city of Derry, but is much more shallow than Lough Swilly, and requires the use of a guide boat to guide ships to and from the port of Derry. A large area of land, most of which now forms part of Grianán Farm, one of the largest farms in Ireland, was reclaimed from a shallow area of Lough Swilly, stretching from the village of Burnfoot to Bridgend and Burt. The outline of this land is plainly visible due to its flatness proving a marked contrast to the more mountainous area surrounding it. Inishowen 553 History Predating the formation of County Donegal by centuries, the area was named Inis Eoghain (the Island of Eoghan) after Eógan mac Néill, son of Niall of the Nine Hostages (Niall Naoigeallach, a High King of Ireland), whose name was also used for Tyrone (Irish: Tír Eoghain). Inis Eoghain is also the ancient homeland of the Mac Lochlainn clan (descended from the tribe of Eoghan), a clan that grew so formidable that they eventually came under siege by a Limerick King, who came north to Aileach, and ordered the destruction of Aileach fort, and that each soldier was to carry away a stone from the fort in order to prevent its rebuilding. Later, after the decline of the Mac Lochlainn clan, the chieftainship of Inis Eoghain was usurped by the Ó Dochartaigh clan, as they lost their own homeland in the Laggan valley area of Tír Conaill. Inishowen has many historical monuments, dating back to early settlements, and including the ruins of several castles, and the fort at Grianán Aileach. The ancient Grianán Ailigh fort at Burt was the one time seat of the High Kings of Ireland, including both High Kings of the Mac Lochlainn Clan, who held power in Inis Eoghain for many centuries. It was restored in the nineteenth century, although some damage in recent years has resulted in the partial collapse of the south side wall. Among the main castle ruins of Inishowen are Carrickabraghey on the Isle of Doagh, the Norman Castle at Greencastle, Inch Castle, Buncrana Castle and Elagh Castle. Inishowen sunset The Grianán of Aileach is a stone fort on the Inishowen peninsula. In 1196, John de Courcy, an Anglo-Norman knight who had invaded Ulster in 1177, defeated the King of the Cenél Conaill and most of Donegal was at his mercy. Two years later he returned to devastate Inishowen.[1] Ireland's deadliest road accident happened at Inishowen in July 2010.[2][3][4][5] Demographics Buncrana is the largest town in Inishowen and second largest in County Donegal. At the last Census of Ireland in 2006, Inishowen counted a population of 31,802, a growth of 8.4% over 1996.[6] Buncrana is the largest town in Inishowen, with a 2006 population of 3,394 in its urban area.[6] Inishowen Politics On a national level, Inishowen forms part of the constituency of Donegal North East, which elects three TDs to Dáil Éireann, the lower house of the Oireachtas (the Irish Parliament). At the county level, Inishowen is itself an electoral area, electing seven councillors to Donegal County Council.[7] Buncrana town residents also elect representatives to the Buncrana Town Council, one of only three Town Councils in Donegal (the others belonging to Letterkenny and Bundoran). At the 2009 local elections three members of Fine Gael were elected, two members from Fianna Fáil and one each from Sinn Féin and the Labour Party. Media In addition to the radio stations and newspapers available elsewhere in Donegal, there are several media outlets that are based solely on the peninsula, including two newspapers (the Inish Times and the Inishowen Independent, both of which are published in Buncrana) and one online daily local news service (InishowenNews.com [8]). Inishowen is also home to the only community station in the county (Inishowen Community Radio, based in Carndonagh). The traditional news source for Inishowen is the Derry Journal, published in nearby Derry city, since 1772. It still serves the peninsula as a paper of record. Tourism The Inishowen 100 tourist route [9] is an approximately 100-mile signposted scenic drive around the peninsula. It takes in or passes nearby most of the tourist attractions and places of interest on the peninsula. • Inishowen Tourism [10]- Official Inishowen Tourism Website, Accommodation,Sights and Culture, Activities, Events and Entertainment for Inishowen County Donegal. It starts at Bridgend where there is a lay-by with a large map and information boards. The first leg of the coastal route is along the coast of Lough Swilly. It passes Inch Island, Fahan (a blue flag beach), Fahan 18-hole Golf Course, Buncrana Town, Tullyarvan Mill (An interpretive centre tracing over 250 years of textile production in the Buncrana area.). It continues along the western coast on Lough Swilly. The routes passes Dunree beach, Dunree Fort (military museum) and then turns inland for Mamore Gap (between the Urris Hills and Raghtin More mountain), Leenan Bay, Dunaff, Head, Tullagh Bay (a blue flag beach), through the villages of Clonmany and Ballyliffin. Ballyliffin has a well-respected 18-hole golf course. After Ballyliffin the route passes the Isle of Doagh (where there is a famine museum and an interpretive centre). Next is Carndonagh - the second largest town in Inishowen, after which the route turns North again through Malin Town (famous for having won its category in Ireland's Tidy Towns competition several times), past Five Finger Strand and then up onto cliff top viewpoint and car park at Knockamany Bens, then down again to sea level with the route looking out into the open Atlantic, before heading for Banba's Crown a peninsula off the peninsula, that is home to Irelands more Northerly point Malin Head. On the North Eastern coast passes through Culdaff village and Culdaff Bay (another Blue Flag beach), the remote Tramone Bay, Kinnagoe Bay. As the coastline turns towards the East it reaches Lough Foyle and Shroove on the mouth of the Lough and then Greencastle (a port used by fishing boats and landing point for the car ferry to and from Magilligan in County Londonderry, Northern Ireland). Then as the road heads South along Lough Foyle it passes through Moville town, Quigley's Point and the Village of Muff where the road turns right and heads back to Bridgend where the journey started. 554 Inishowen Festivals • DylanFest on the Lough, Ireland's only annual festival of Bob Dylan music, takes place in Moville where bands from all over Europe and visitors from all over the world congregate to play and hear Bob Dylan music. The DylanFest takes place in the pubs, the streets of the town, on the shores of Lough Foyle and in the picturesque grounds of the hostel at Gulladuff House. • BeatlesFest on the Lough takes place every year when bands from all over Europe come and play in the streets and pubs of Moville. • The Buncrana Music and Arts Festival. Aimed at being a 'Free Festival', organisers only ask for a donation for entrance. Sport • Inishowen Football League • Inishowen Rugby References [1] DeBreffny, D & Mott, G (1976). The Churches and Abbeys of Ireland. London: Thames & Hudson. pp. 60–61. [2] According to The Irish Times (http:/ / www. irishtimes. com/ newspaper/ breaking/ 2010/ 0712/ breaking44. html), "National Roads Authority road safety expert Stephen Lambert said last night's death toll was the highest number of fatalities in a single crash since records began in 1961". [3] Watts, Alex (13 July 2010). "Funeral Plans For Men Killed In Irish Crash" (http:/ / news. sky. com/ skynews/ Home/ World-News/ Irelands-Worst-Road-Accident-Funerals-Planned-For-Eight-Men-Killed-In-Buncrana-Co-Donegal/ Article/ 201007215664206?lpos=World_News_Carousel_Region_2& lid=ARTICLE_15664206_Irelands_Worst_Road_Accident:_Funerals_Planned_For_Eight_Men_Killed_In_Buncrana,_Co_Donegal). Sky News (BSkyB). . Retrieved 13 July 2010. [4] "Funerals for Donegal crash" (http:/ / www. bbc. co. uk/ news/ uk-northern+ ireland-10641024). BBC News (BBC). 15 July 2010. . Retrieved 15 July 2010. [5] "Eight-death crash 'worst on record'" (http:/ / www. independent. ie/ breaking-news/ national-news/ eightdeath-crash-worst-on-record-2255100. html). Irish Independent (Independent News & Media). 12 July 2010. . Retrieved 12 July 2010. [6] "Census 2006 Preliminary Report" (http:/ / www. cso. ie/ census/ 2006_preliminaryreport. htm). Central Statistics Office Ireland. 2006. . Retrieved 2010-02-06. [7] "Donegal County Council Members" (http:/ / www. donegalcoco. ie/ council/ members/ Members. htm). Donegal County Council. 2004. . Retrieved 2007-03-30. [8] http:/ / www. inishowennews. com [9] "Inishowen 100 driving route" (http:/ / www. donegaldirect. com/ driving_route. aspx?Route=6). Donegal Tourism. 2010. . Retrieved 2011-01-12. [10] http:/ / www. visitinishowen. com Further reading • Morton, O. 2003. "The macroalgae of County Donegal, Ireland". Bull. Ir. Biogeog. Soc.; No. 27: 3-164. • Seán Beattie, Ancient Monuments of Inishowen, North Donegal. Lighthouse Publications, Carndonagh, Inishowen, County Donegal, 1994 & 2009. External links • Inishowen Tourism (http://www.visitinishowen.com)- Inishowen Official tourism website for accommodation • Inishowen News (http://www.inishowennews.com)- Inishowen News online with community notes, local sport and the Business Directory • Inish Times (http://www.inishtimes.com/) - Buncrana-based local newspaper, covering Inishowen news • Raidio Pobail Inis Eoghain (http://www.icrfm.ie/) - Inishowen Community Radio (ICR) • Traditional housing of Inishowen (http://www.geographyinaction.co.uk/Vernacular housing/ Vern_background.html) 555 Article Sources and Contributors Article Sources and Contributors Donegal Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?oldid=507630939 Contributors: AFBorchert, Aaroncunn, Afn, Aislinnm2005, Alai, Alansohn, Aldaron, AlexanderKaras, Answer4John, ArchieP, Ardfern, Asarlaí, Atlant, BabyNuke, Baiji, Balloholic, Baronplantagenet, Bastique, Bjmullan, Brendiano, Brian O Herrity, BrownHairedGirl, Buncronan, Burtladd, CGorman, Canterbury Tail, Ceasan, Chriscoll 2004, Ciaranc, Damiens.rf, Dan100, Deflective, Denisarona, DocWatson42, Donegal92, Donegaleen, DrJos, Dschwen, Edcarbery, Eimeardoneapoo, El C, Felineboy, Felix Folio Secundus, French line, Fuhghettaboutit, Glasgowirish67, Gnevin, Grungyman, Guliolopez, Hairyhernan, Hermione1980, Herrsturmgeist2009, HighKing, Hunterjo2, IkbenFrank, Ilikeeatingwaffles, J04n, Jeanne boleyn, Jeff G., Jeff3000, Jlang, Jmartinsson, Juliancolton, Jusdafax, Kateshortforbob, Kei Jo, Klemen Kocjancic, KnightRider, Korovioff, Kwamikagami, Lugnad, M-le-mot-dit, MacTire02, Marek69, Marmue, Martarius, Masti, Matthewpotter, MaxPride, Mdarren, Misseducated101, Monkey32, Mulloom2, Muxxa, Nono64, NotMuchToSay, O Fenian, Ocolla, OllieFury, Osborne, Pauldavidhewson, Peter Clarke, Philip Trueman, Plasticspork, Plastikspork, Pmcanena, Promethean, Qaswa, QueenCake, Quentin X, RTG, Rdoherty87, Red King, Rjwilmsi, Robmuntz2009, Robmuntzawesome, Sacalbus, SailorAlphaCentauri, Sammalin, Sarah777, Scalpfarmer, Seneschally, Shalom Yechiel, Shanes, Shimbo, SidP, Smalljim, Smpb, Snappy, Sneller12345, Sswonk, SteveLamacq43, Stifle, Tameamseo, The Tom, Timeineurope, Tommy23, Triplestop, Twthmoses, Unschool, V79benno, Valsmyth, WhisperToMe, WikHead, Wikieditor06, Wouterhagens, Ww2censor, Xenophon777, Xn4, Zoney, Éamonn Cálraighe, 228 anonymous edits County Donegal Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?oldid=507761341 Contributors: 9HomerSimpson9, ARKofEREH, ARUNKUMAR P.R, Afn, Ajuk, Akatie, Al Silonov, Alaskanativeson, Alfanje, Angr, AnnaFrance, ArchieP, Ardfern, Art LaPella, Asarlaí, AtticusX, Auntof6, Badbilltucker, Bailie-san, Barryob, Beetstra, Beland, Belfast Mucker hi, Bender235, Billy Hathorn, Biruitorul, Bjh21, Bjmullan, Bogusbuster, Boing! said Zebedee, Boothy443, Brendandh, Brendiano, Brenont, Brentford, Brighterorange, BrownHairedGirl, Bulletpimp, Calen11, CamMan, Camogie History, Candelwicke, Canterbury Tail, CapitalR, CelticSeimi, CelticWonder, Chester Markel, Chris the speller, Chriswiki, Ciaranc, Cnyborg, ColmanHuge, Cripipper, Crzrussian, D.de.loinsigh, D6, DO'Neil, Dakker4, Damienman, DanMS, Dana2011, Dannie Murray, Deflective, Demiurge, Denisarona, Derry Boi, Djegan, Donegal92, Dove (usurped), Dppowell, Draceane, Dragoon009, Dun, Dylan067, Edcarbery, Edcolins, Edofedinburgh, Edward321, Edystr, El C, Eob, Eoghan888, EoinBach, Ezhiki, Fences and windows, Fergananim, Filastin, Frokor, Frotz, Fyyer, Gary1505, Garymcg, George Vial, Gerambo, Glacialfox, Gnevin, Grafen, Ground Zero, Happy Geographer, Hede2000, HighKing, Hmains, Hohenloh, Hvn0413, IL7Soulhunter, Ian Pitchford, Icemanofbarcelona, IkbenFrank, Imasleepviking, Imolgen, Ingle Freebird, Inter, Ire2500, Irish enumerator, Irishsash, Ivor Stoughton, JD554, JaGa, Jeanne dArc, Jmabel, Jnestorius, John, John McCarthy, John of Reading, Johnfullerton, Jon C., Jon Kay, JustAGal, Jvlm.123, Jyusin, Ka Faraq Gatri, Kaihsu, Kelisi, Kiand, Korovioff, Kwamikagami, Kwekubo, Laggan Boy, Lapsed Pacifist, Larry Sanger, Laurel Lodged, Leandrod, Ledenierhomme, Lightmouse, Lincolnite, Ling.Nut, LocGov, Lugnad, Lukecf, M-le-mot-dit, Maadio, Mabuska, Mandarax, Marktreut, Matt Beal, MaxPride, Mcferran, Merlion444, Monty845, Morwen, Moverton, Mr pand, Murry1975, N5iln, Nickptar, Nixeagle, Noq, Nora lives, NorthernCounties, NotMuchToSay, O Fenian, Onceandforall, Ondewelle, Onetonycousins, Orange Suede Sofa, Osborne, PaddyMatthews, Palmiro, Panters, ParisianBlade, Peter Clarke, Peter M Dodge, Petethebloke, Picapica, Picus viridis, Pinkadelica, Plasticspork, Plucas58, Poppy, Promethean, Protonk, Psmith, Que-Can, Quiensabe, RX-Guru, RadioBroadcast, Rarelibra, Rasbora100, Raso mk, Reinoutr, Restu20, Richc80, Rjwilmsi, Ro2000, RoBri, Rontrigger, RossPatterson, Rronline, Rumping, Rwalker, Saga City, Sam Hocevar, Sammalin, Sarah777, Scrivener-uki, SeanMack, Seighean, Seneschally, Senjuto, Signalhead, SimonP, Siuenti, Skarebo, Snappy, Snoopycat, Soc8675309, Srleffler, Sswonk, Stanstaple, Steinsky, Stevethewretch, SunDragon34, Sverdrup, Tameamseo, Taoiseach, Tassedethe, Tebibyte, Template namespace initialisation script, The Anome, The C of E, The Tom, Thebdogg, Thryduulf, Timeineurope, Tkynerd, Tohd8BohaithuGh1, Tonym88, Uisce, Ulidia, Uncle Dick, Updatehelper, Ushgalmantra, V04bf013, Valsmyth, Veinor, Warofdreams, WebHamster, Wfgiuliano, Whhalbert, Wiki01916, Wmahan, Wwoods, Xezbeth, Yorkshirian, Zoney, 1243 anonymous edits Tyrconnell Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?oldid=505855521 Contributors: Ardfern, Asarlaí, Barticus88, Belovedfreak, Camerong, Charles Matthews, Claíomh Solais, Commander Keane, Dave3141592, Donegal92, Dun, EamonnPKeane, EdwardOConnor, Fergananim, Good Olfactory, HighKing, Hohenloh, Ian Dalziel, JamieScuffell, John of Lancaster, John of Reading, Keith D, King of Hearts, Neddyseagoon, Nick Number, Nora lives, Pairadox, R'n'B, Radagast83, Red Hurley, Rich Farmbrough, Rockpocket, SJP, ST47, Seneschally, Steven J. 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Anthony, WOSlinker, Zoney, 30 anonymous edits Carndonagh Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?oldid=502842170 Contributors: AFBorchert, Acroterion, Angr, Ardfern, Auds10, Balloholic, BrownHairedGirl, CGorman, Carn61, Charles Matthews, DBigXray, Damac, Dlohcierekim, Donegal92, Drummed, Dsmithsmithy, Dun, Eeekster, Figitarian, Gil Gamesh, Grutness, Ian.thomson, Iridescent, J.delanoy, Jasonm, Jerryjs3, Jredmond, MC10, Mophead19, Murry1975, Mykills, Noah Salzman, PMParis, Piano non troppo, Picapica, Plasticspork, Salvio giuliano, Sarah777, Seamus72, Smactass, Snappy, Sswonk, Theminceman, WOSlinker, Woodtopdec, Xchbla423, Yettie0711, Zoney, 129 anonymous edits 563 Article Sources and Contributors Carrigans Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?oldid=483102229 Contributors: BrownHairedGirl, Discopiglet, KathrynLybarger, Malcolma, MaxPride, Murry1975, Onlyhereforthebeer, Plasticspork, Plastikspork, Rjwilmsi, Sarah777, Snappy, Useight, 6 anonymous edits Carrigart Source: 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Contributors: Baa, Balloholic, Bastique, Benlpalmer, Boothy443, BrownHairedGirl, ChrisGualtieri, Cmdrjameson, DarbyAsh, Doherty100, Jasonm, Jenn84, Ligulem, Lozleader, MaxPride, Mervyn, Murry1975, Paul E Ester, Plasticspork, Red 81, RedHillian, Sarah777, SeanMack, Shanes, Snappy, Thyhthyjyh, 67 anonymous edits Gweedore Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?oldid=505765490 Contributors: Acalamari, Aindreas, AlainV, Angr, Ardfern, Argyll Lassie, Asarlaí, Aughavas, Autodidactyl, Bihco, Bill Bei, Binary TSO, Birdybeag, Boothy443, Brandubh Blathmac, Brendanconway, Brian Herrity, Brian Honne, Brian O Herrity, Brichcja, Brocach, BrownHairedGirl, Bryan Duggan, CKA3KA, CaoimheMcBride, Capricorn42, Cargoking, CelticWonder, Chris the speller, Chriscoll 2004, Chuunen Baka, Cjthellama, Colman Huge, ColmanHuge, CommonsDelinker, Craig Stuntz, Damac, Dana2011, Demiurge, Discospinster, Djegan, Donallmgc, Dschwen, Dungloe, Dutchdoherty, EDGKBH, EI7VBG, EJF, Ecksemmess, Eppopotimus, Erianna, 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edits Inver Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?oldid=504435079 Contributors: Alex43223, Ardfern, Brian Herrity, BrownHairedGirl, CheeryBeery, ChrisGualtieri, Conorbrady.ie, D6, Doric Loon, Erechtheus, Eumolpo, Gurch, Hroðulf, Inverdonegal, Location, Nono64, Peter Clarke, Plasticspork, Sarah777, WOSlinker, 18 anonymous edits 564 Article Sources and Contributors Kerrykeel Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?oldid=505443804 Contributors: Balloholic, Beebamp, Billsmith60, BrownHairedGirl, Denman wins, FrenchIsAwesome, Jllm06, MaxPride, Murry1975, Ocolla, Oldmaneinstein, Plasticspork, Rjwilmsi, Sarah777, Snappy, 51 anonymous edits Kilcar Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?oldid=505163944 Contributors: AFBorchert, AdjustShift, Afn, Alaney2k, Asarlaí, BD2412, Balloholic, Brian Herrity, BrownHairedGirl, Darklilac, Doyler79, Drmies, Guliolopez, Hibernian, IndulgentReader, Ireland1994, Kilcar Info, Kilcarwiki, LittleWink, MaxPride, Muggabugga, Murry1975, Paddy More, 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