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The Metaphor of Waves: Indian Fabrics, Music, Dance & Meditation

2015

A wave as a metaphor is potent, in the Hindi language the word is Leher. It represents an endless continuity of cyclic energy. The Indian Cultural matrix takes this symbol and represents its inherent philosophical ethos in weaving, music, dance and meditative practices.

Metaphor of Waves Indian Fabrics, Music, Kathak Dance & Meditation Illusion & Dissolution By Dr. Navina Jafa A wave as a metaphor is potent, in the Hindi language the word is Leher. It represents an endless continuity of cyclic energy. The Indian Cultural matrix takes this symbol and represents its inherent philosophical ethos in weaving, music, dance and meditative practices. It is an inherent aspect of water one of the five elements, elusive and impossible to contain a symbol of movement, potential and power. In Buddhism the wave represents the Mahamudra - or the great position of inherent energy. It is the union of compassion and wisdom- the ultimate realization of one’s true nature. In Kathak, the Classical Dance from North India, and other instrumental music performed, there is an incorporation of a seminal framework that resounds in the background the basic beats of the chosen rhythmic cycle. In Kathak dance, the idea of rhythm which is manifested in what is played on a string instrument or the harmonium (the Indian organ) liltingly in the background marks the flow of a rhythmic cycle. It is interestingly called Lehera or wave pattern in the aerial format representing a cycle of time in space. The first beat represents the shore and the cycle repeats itself again and again hitting that shore. The melody of the Lehra comprises of musical notes set in a selected Raga. The melody is repeated in ascending and descending order to illustrate the tala or the rhythmic cycle. While the percussionist matches the performed content of the dancer, the Lehra does not change, and in a monochrome manner like an anchor is responsible for providing the structure of the tala for the dancer and percussionist. It is played repeatedly all through the performance, and the tempo of the melody ( Lehra) is moderated by the requirement of the performer. Sum or first beat of the tala represents the shore in the cyclic journey of waves or Leher - where the melody ends and begins and thus forms focal beat of the tala. The symbol of the Wave further is assimilated in textiles. Rajasthan and Gujarat are well known for their tie and dye technique in fabrics, largely cotton and silk, and now evident in other material. It is called Bandhni or Bandhej. This is a 5000-year-old colorful hand-dyeing technique. The art of Bandhani is highly skilled process. The technique involves dyeing a fabric which is tied tightly with a thread at several points, thus producing a variety of patterns like Lehariya. The wave patterns are produced in brightly colored cloth with distinctive patterns. Lehariya is distinguished by the natural, ripple effect in mesmerizing colors, using a color resist dyeing technique where the patterns are made up of innumerable waves respectively. The wavy, diagonal stripes created through this technique look bewitching in brilliant color combinations. According to World Textiles: A Visual Guide to Traditional Techniques, the fabric is "rolled diagonally from one corner to the opposite selvedge, and then tied at the required intervals and dyed". Wave patterns result from fanlike folds made before dyeing. Traditional Lehariya employs natural dyes and multiple washes. The Lehariya was patronized in the nineteenth and early twentieth century by the local traders and merchants who wore turbans of bright Lehariya fabric. The itinerant trading communities of Rajasthan wearing the Lehariya turban seem to symbolize their eternal cyclic journeys. The harmoniously arranged diagonal stripes in their Turban were originally, dyed in the auspicious colors of yellow and red. While Red in the Indian civilization is associated with the energy symbolized and manifested in the Mother Goddess, Yellow is the color of learning and knowledge, in Buddhism the yellow symbolizes our experience of the everyday world. Presently, the Lehariya design is most common in chiffon sarees, cotton stoles and skirts. Further, if one explores, waves are nothing but a name and form in a larger setting of existence. So long that they move – rise and fall they exist. The skilled weaver, dancer, musician and the meditating ascetic creates a geography to map that movement. For the dancer and musician it is the environment of time and space in which he creates designs of rhythm with his music or body, exploring and negotiating in the idea of waves. For the weaver that space of creation is the cloth where waves assume a visual pattern, for the ascetic it is the hand position with which he frames his mental and physical energies. But then the reality is the idea of dissolution. Which in North Indian performing arts it is the ‘Sum’ (first-last beat of a cycle), or for the waever it is the first knot of the weft and warp (taana-baana) or for the meditator the dissolution is the concept of the ‘Brahman’. To arrive at the the path is the creation of roads in the virtual or real existence of wave patterns which is nothing by an illusion Maya which is dissolved. The wave is c absolved in the ocean, the lehera in the sum, for in meditation it is the reality of shoonyata or the void.