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Attrezzatura per alpinismo

NORMA Chiodi UNI EN 569
E U R OP E A Requisiti di sicurezza e metodi di prova

AGOSTO 2007

Mountaineering equipment
Pitons
Safety requirements and test methods

La norma specifica i requisiti di sicurezza e i metodi di prova per i

chiodi destinati ad essere utilizzati per alpinismo incluse le scalate.

TESTO INGLESE

La presente norma è la versione ufficiale in lingua inglese della

norma europea EN 569 (edizione febbraio 2007).

La presente norma è la revisione della UNI EN 569:1998.

ICS 97.220.40

UNI © UNI
Ente Nazionale Italiano Riproduzione vietata. Tutti i diritti sono riservati. Nessuna parte del presente documento
di Unificazione può essere riprodotta o diffusa con un mezzo qualsiasi, fotocopie, microfilm o altro, senza
Via Sannio, 2 il consenso scritto dell’UNI.
20137 Milano, Italia www.uni.com

UNI EN 569:2007 Pagina I

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PREMESSA NAZIONALE
La presente norma costituisce il recepimento, in lingua inglese, del-
la norma europea EN 569 (edizione febbraio 2007), che assume co-
sì lo status di norma nazionale italiana.

La presente norma è stata elaborata sotto la competenza della

Commissione Tecnica UNI
Impianti ed attrezzi sportivi e ricreativi

La presente norma è stata ratificata dal Presidente dell’UNI ed è

entrata a far parte del corpo normativo nazionale il 28 agosto 2007.

Le norme UNI sono elaborate cercando di tenere conto dei punti di vista di tutte le parti
interessate e di conciliare ogni aspetto conflittuale, per rappresentare il reale stato
dell’arte della materia ed il necessario grado di consenso.
Chiunque ritenesse, a seguito dell’applicazione di questa norma, di poter fornire sug-
gerimenti per un suo miglioramento o per un suo adeguamento ad uno stato dell’arte
in evoluzione è pregato di inviare i propri contributi all’UNI, Ente Nazionale Italiano di
Unificazione, che li terrà in considerazione per l’eventuale revisione della norma stessa.

Le norme UNI sono revisionate, quando necessario, con la pubblicazione di nuove edizioni o
di aggiornamenti.
È importante pertanto che gli utilizzatori delle stesse si accertino di essere in possesso
dell’ultima edizione e degli eventuali aggiornamenti.
Si invitano inoltre gli utilizzatori a verificare l’esistenza di norme UNI corrispondenti alle
norme EN o ISO ove citate nei riferimenti normativi.

UNI EN 569:2007 © UNI Pagina II

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EUROPEAN STANDARD EN 569

NORME EUROPÉENNE
EUROPÄISCHE NORM February 2007

ICS 97.220.40 Supersedes EN 569:1997

English Version

Mountaineering equipment - Pitons - Safety requirements and

test methods

Equipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Pitons - Exigences Bergsteigerausrüstung - Felshaken - Sicherheitstechnische

de sécurité et méthodes d'essai Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren

This European Standard was approved by CEN on 13 January 2007.

CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this European
Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning such national
standards may be obtained on application to the CEN Management Centre or to any CEN member.

This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by translation
under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN Management Centre has the same status as the
official versions.

CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland,
France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal,
Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and United Kingdom.

EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION

COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION
EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG

Management Centre: rue de Stassart, 36 B-1050 Brussels

© 2007 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved Ref. No. EN 569:2007: E
worldwide for CEN national Members.
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EN 569:2007 (E)

Contents Page

Foreword..............................................................................................................................................................3
Introduction .........................................................................................................................................................4
1 Scope ......................................................................................................................................................5
2 Terms and definitions ...........................................................................................................................5
3 Safety requirements ..............................................................................................................................5
3.1 Design .....................................................................................................................................................5
3.2 Breaking force........................................................................................................................................6
4 Test method............................................................................................................................................6
4.1 Examination of design ..........................................................................................................................6
4.2 Determination of breaking force ..........................................................................................................7
4.2.1 Test samples ..........................................................................................................................................7
4.2.2 Test conditions ......................................................................................................................................7
4.2.3 Apparatus ...............................................................................................................................................7
4.2.4 Preparation and positioning of test samples......................................................................................8
4.2.5 Procedure ...............................................................................................................................................8
5 Marking ...................................................................................................................................................9
6 Information supplied by the manufacturer .........................................................................................9
Annex A (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment................................................................10
Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard an the Essential
Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC........................................................................................11

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EN 569:2007 (E)

Foreword
This document (EN 569:2007) has been prepared by the Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports,
playground and other recreational equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN.

This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an identical
text or by endorsement, at the latest by August 2007, and conflicting national standards shall be withdrawn at
the latest by August 2007.

This document supersedes EN 569:1997.

This European Standard has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commission
and the European Free Trade Association to support Essential Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC.

For relationship with EU Directive(s), see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral part of this European
Standard.

According to the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the following
countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Cyprus, Czech
Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia,
Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain,
Sweden, Switzerland and United Kingdom.

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EN 569:2007 (E)

Introduction
The text of this European Standard is based on the former UIAA-Standard R (Union Internationale des
Associations d'Alpinisme), which has been developed with international participation.

This European Standard is one of a package of standards for mountaineering equipment, see Annex A.

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EN 569:2007 (E)

1 Scope
This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for pitons for use in mountaineering
including climbing.

2 Terms and definitions

For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.

2.1
piton
device which, when inserted into a rock crack by means of a hammer or equivalent device, provides an
anchor

NOTE Two parts can normally be identified in the piton: the head and the blade.

2.2
head
part of the piton which contains the attachment point eye (or eyes) used for connection to the rope (via a
connector) and which is usually the part struck when inserting the piton

2.3
blade
part of the piton which is inserted into the rock crack

2.4
length of the piton
length of the blade measured in the direction of its insertion into the crack

2.5
pulling shackle
tool used to apply the force in the test

2.6
safety piton
piton which exhibits a high breaking force (see Table 1) and having a length of at least 90 mm

2.7
progression piton
piton with a lower breaking force than safety pitons (see Table 1)

3 Safety requirements

3.1 Design

3.1.1 The eye shall be at least 3 mm thick (see Figure 1).

3.1.2 The internal edges of the eye shall be rounded with a radius larger than 0,2 mm or larger than
0,2 mm × 45°. See a) in Figure 1.

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EN 569:2007 (E)

Dimensions in millimetres

a) Bevelled edges b) Rounded edges

Figure 1 — Attachment point eye dimensions

3.1.3 When tested according to 4.1, the eye shall have an internal diameter of at least 15 mm. See b) in
Figure 1.

3.1.4 If pitons are made from heat treated steel with a hardness greater than 38 HRC they have to appear
dark. Pitons which are made from all other materials and a hardness less than 22 HRC have to appear light.
The head and the eye shall be free from burrs and sharp edges.

3.2 Breaking force

When tested in accordance with 4.2, the breaking force shall be not less than the appropriate value given in
Table 1.

Table 1 — Minimum values of breaking force

Breaking force
Type F1 F2 F3
kN kN kN
Safety pitons 25 10 15
Progression pitons 12,5 5 7,5
F1 is the normal direction specified by the manufacturer;
F2 is the reverse direction;
F3 is the sideways direction
(see Figures 2 and 3).

4 Test method

4.1 Examination of design

The requirements according to 3.1 shall be tested by measurement or tactile examination on one test sample.

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EN 569:2007 (E)

4.2 Determination of breaking force

4.2.1 Test samples

If a piton model is produced in different lengths, test only the shortest length in accordance with 4.2.5. For
each test direction a new test sample is to be used.

4.2.2 Test conditions

Carry out the test at a temperature of (23 ± 5) °C.

4.2.3 Apparatus

The apparatus shall consist of

a) a vice for holding the piton at a pressure that does not lead to visible deformation of the test sample and
with edges of the two jaws holding the piton rounded to a radius of (5 ± 0,5) mm (see Figure 2). At least
one of the jaws rotates in order to accommodate any tapered shape in the piton;

b) a means of preventing extraction and rotation of the piton, e.g. one or two pins. Ensure that the outer hole
drilled in the piton blade respectively the fixing system remains at least 20 mm from the outer surface of
the jaw (see Figure 2);

c) a pulling shackle, made of steel, with a diameter of (10 ± 0,1) mm to apply a force on the piton, the part of
this device which is nearest to the piton being as indicated in Figures 2 and 3. The shackle rotates freely
around axes X and Y (see Figure 3), to allow free deformation of the piton.

Dimensions in millimetres

Figure 2 — Part of the test device (Example 1)

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EN 569:2007 (E)

Dimensions in millimetres

Figure 3 — Part of the test device (Example 2)

4.2.4 Preparation and positioning of test samples

If necessary, drill holes in the piton and jaw of the vice to accommodate the holding pins.

If this method of fixing is not feasible, use other means as advised by the manufacturer.

NOTE The manufacturer can provide means to prevent rotation during side pull, particularly in cases where only one
pin can be used.

Ensure that the holding system does not cause rupture of the piton.

For positioning apply a force of (100 ± 10) N to the pulling device in "F1" direction with an initial distance of the
line of action of the pulling force from the jaw surface of (20 ± 0,5) mm (see Figure 2). If this cannot be
achieved, use the smallest possible distance. Use the same distance for each direction of force.

4.2.5 Procedure

Apply a force with a traction speed of (35 ± 15) mm/min in the three following directions:

a) normal direction (F1), specified by the manufacturer;

b) reverse direction (F2);
c) sideways direction (F3).

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EN 569:2007 (E)

If the piton is asymmetric, repeat the side pull in the opposing direction on an unloaded test sample.

If the test sample does not break when a force of 30 kN has been reached, terminate the test and report a
value of 30 kN.

5 Marking
The head of each piton shall be marked with at least the following information:

a) name of the manufacturer or its representative in the European Community;

b) piton length, expressed in centimetres rounded down to the nearest whole centimetre.

Safety pitons shall be marked with the letter “S" in a circle.

If there is insufficient space on the head, the name or trademark of the manufacturer may be affixed to the
piton blade.

6 Information supplied by the manufacturer

The piton shall be supplied with an explanatory leaflet, and written in at least the official language(s) of the
state of destination within the European Community containing at least the following items;

a) name and address of the manufacturer or its representative in the European Community;

b) number of this European Standard, i.e. EN 569;

c) meaning of any markings on the product;

d) explanation of the indication of length;

e) explanation of the symbol "S";

f) information that the breaking force and the holding capacity of a piton placed in a rock will be reduced as
time passes and that multiple use of a piton may also reduce its strength;

g) use of the product;

h) how to choose other components for use in the system;

i) how to maintain and service the product;

j) lifespan of the product;

k) effects of chemical reagents and temperature on the product.

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EN 569:2007 (E)

Annex A
(informative)

Standards on mountaineering equipment

Table A.1 — List of standards on mountaineering equipment

No Document Title
1 EN 892 Mountaineering equipment — Dynamic mountaineering ropes — Safety requirements
and test methods
2 EN 12275 Mountaineering equipment — Connectors — Safety requirements and test methods
3 EN 13089 Mountaineering equipment — Ice-tools — Safety requirements and test methods
4 EN 12277 Mountaineering equipment — Harnesses — Safety requirements and test methods
5 EN 12492 Mountaineering equipment — Helmets for mountaineers — Safety requirements and
test methods
6 EN 564 Mountaineering equipment — Accessory cord — Safety requirements and test
methods
7 EN 565 Mountaineering equipment — Tape — Safety requirements and test methods
8 EN 566 Mountaineering equipment — Slings — Safety requirements and test methods
9 EN 12276 Mountaineering equipment — Frictional anchors — Safety requirements and test
methods
10 EN 12270 Mountaineering equipment — Chocks — Safety requirements and test methods
11 EN 567 Mountaineering equipment — Rope clamps — Safety requirements and test methods
12 EN 958 Mountaineering equipment — Energy absorbing systems for use in klettersteig (via
ferrata) climbing — Safety requirements and test methods
13 EN 959 Mountaineering equipment — Rock anchors — Safety requirements and test
methods
14 EN 568 Mountaineering equipment — Ice anchors — Safety requirements and test methods
15 EN 569 Mountaineering equipment — Pitons — Safety requirements and test methods
16 EN 893 Mountaineering equipment — Crampons — Safety requirements and test methods
17 prEN 15151 Mountaineering equipment — Descenders — Safety requirements and test methods
18 EN 12278 Mountaineering equipment — Pulleys — Safety requirements and test methods

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EN 569:2007 (E)

Annex ZA
(informative)

Relationship between this European Standard an the Essential

Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC

This European Standard has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commission
and the European Free Trade Association to provide a means of conforming to Essential Requirements of the
New Approach Directive 89/686/EEC on the approximation of the laws of the Member States relating to
personal protective equipment.

Once this standard is cited in the Official Journal of the European Communities under that Directive and has
been implemented as a national standard in at least one Member State, compliance with the clauses of this
standard given in Table ZA.1 confers, within the limits of the scope of this standard, a presumption of
conformity with the corresponding Essential Requirements of that Directive and associated EFTA regulations.

Table ZA.1 — Correspondence between this European Standard and Directive 89/686/EEC

Clause(s)/subclause(s) Essential Requirements (ERs) Qualifying

of this EN of Directive 89/686/EEC remarks/Notes
3.1 1.2.1 Absence of risk and other factors
3.2 1.3.2 Lightness and design strength
6 1.4 Information supplied by the manufacturer

WARNING: Other requirements and other EU Directives may be applicable to the product(s) falling within the
scope of this standard.

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