Wordless Wednesday

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Snowflake Monday

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I tried to research why dark colors painted with glow-in-the-dark glue don't emit as much glow but wasn't able to learn much more than different colors require different light spectrums to charge. My guess is that the white offers a reflectiveness, while the darker colors absorb. But that's the just the ancient photography darkroom technician in me coming out of hiding.

I tried charging the dark colors with daylight, LED, incandescent and fluorescent light. I even gave the larger skull three coats of glow-in-the-dark glue. The LED worked the best, and I think it's because I set the light right on top of the skulls for a few moments.

Here are the orange skulls charged with LED light.


And here is the same photo played with in the mobile version of Photoshop.








I stiffened my Nocturne Skullflakes and skulls the very same way I have stiffened snowflakes with glue for decades, using the glow-in-the-dark glue instead of school glue. I painted narrow flake joints with full-power glow-in-the-dark glue, not mixed with a bit of water, and boy, do those joints glow!!!

This new glue makes me want to remake every single one of my Halloween snowflakes from the past nine years!!!


You may do whatever you'd like with skulls and skullflakes you make from this pattern, but you may not sell or republish the pattern. Thanks, and enjoy!


Finished Size: 6 inches from point to point
Materials: Size 10 crochet thread, size 7 crochet hook, sequins or beads or stick-on jewels or permanent markers or embroidery floss for eyes, empty pizza box, wax paper or plastic wrap, cellophane tape, water soluble school glue or desired stiffener, water, glitter, small container for glue/water mixture, paintbrush, stick pins that won't be used later for sewing, clear thread or fishing line

Nocturne Skull Motif Instructions


Make magic ring.

Round 1: Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and ch 2), 8 dc in ring; work 1 more dc into ring, using linked dc method to connect it to first 2 ch of starting ch 4 to prevent a gap between stitches (yo, draw up loop through magic ring, draw up loop through 1st ch of starting ch 4 and pull through 2 loops on hook, draw up loop through 2nd ch of starting ch 4 and pull through 2 loops on hook). Pull magic circle tight as you can.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.

Round 2: Sl st into ch 2 sp, ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 7 dc in same ch 2 sp, sk next dc, 2 dc in each dc around, using the linked dc method described in Round 1 for the 16th dc.

Row 3 Teeth: Sl st into each of next 2 dc, ch 3, [sk next dc, 1 hdc in next dc, ch 1] 2 times, ch 1, 1 hdc in next dc, turn.

Row 4 Teeth: Ch 3, [sk next ch 1 sp, 1 hdc in next dc, ch 1] 2 times, sk next ch, ch 2, sl st in next ch; bind off here if making Skullflake motifs.

Here are completed skulls with and without the 5th Round. Do not use the 5th Round if you are making the Skullflake, but refer to single crochet diagram below to complete the final Round of the Skullflake.






Optional Round 5: Work sc all the way around skull, using sl st at the jaw bones to maintain the curved shape and using 2 sc in each tooth gap and 3 sc in each corner gap as shown below; bind off. Weave in ends.


Nocturne Skullflake Instructions


Make magic ring.

Round 1: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in ring, [ch 3, 2 dc in ring] 5 times; ch 1, 1 dc in 2nd ch of starting ch 2 to form 6th ch 3 sp of Round. Pull magic circle tight as desired.

Round 2: 1 sc over post of dc directly below, [ch 3, 1 sc in next ch 3 sp, ch 5, 1 sc in same sp] 6 times, omitting last ch 5 and last sc of final repeat; ch 2, 1 tr in starting sc to form 6th ch 5 loop of Round.




Round 3: Ch 2 (counts as 1 (dc), 2 dc over post of tr directly below, [ch 2, 1 sc in next ch 3 sp, ch 2, 3 dc in next ch 5 loop, ch 3, 3 dc in same loop] 5 times; ch 2, 1 sc in next ch 3 sp, ch 2, 3 dc in next sp, ch 1, 1 dc in 2nd ch of starting ch 2 to form 6th ch 3 tip of Round.




Round 4: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc over post of dc directly below, [working from front of skull motif, 1 sc in top center of skull, working counter clockwise around, 1 sc in each dc to jaw joint, sl st in jaw joint, 2 sc in next tooth gap, 3 sc in tooth corner, 2 sc in next tooth gap, 3 sc in next tooth corner, 2 sc in next tooth gap, sl st in jaw joint, 1 sc in each dc to top of skull, 3 dc in next ch 3 tip, ch 12, sl st in 10th ch from hook, ch 2 (picot loop made), 3 dc in same ch 3 tip] 6 times, omitting last 3 sc of final repeat; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2; bind off. Weave in ends.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.

NOTE: My prototype Nocturne Skullflake included ch 2 spaces between the skulls and the 3/dc shells. The flake may be worked either way. I wrote the pattern without the ch 2 spaces because I like that version better. Also notice the variations in pinning of the shorter points.


Finish: Tape wax paper or plastic wrap to top of empty pizza box. Pin skullflake to box on top of wax paper or plastic wrap.

If using glue, mix a few drops of water with a teaspoon of glue in small washable container. Paint skullflake with glue mixture or desired stiffener. Sprinkle lightly with glitter. Wash paintbrush and container thoroughly. Allow skullflake to dry at least 24 hours. Remove pins. Gently peel skullflake from wax paper or plastic wrap. Attach 10-inch clear thread to one spoke, weaving in end. Wrap fishing line around tree branch (or tape to ceiling or any overhead surface) and watch the skullflake twirl freely whenever you walk by! Skullflake also may be taped to window or tied to doorknob or cabinet handle.

Didn't notice the pirate skull and the rolling eyeball until after I embedded the photos in this blog post. The lost eye has now been resocketed!

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Wordless Wednesday

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Skullflake Monday

Sometimes I study the clouds in search of shapes. And sometimes I see shapes within my snowflake designs.

This skullflake was inspired by a highly unlikely flake I designed recently. The holes in the flake I was designing looked almost like a skull face. Because it is October, I decided that wasn't such a bad idea. I made this flake on 10.10.10, and writing the pattern was complete in the 10 o'clock hour. Bewitching!

Note to Self: Never design a pattern with black thread! Make a white one, an orange one or even a purple one first. After you finish tweaking, then you can make the spooky black one!

Jack 'o Lanterns full of gratitude to Allicats for helping me work the bugs out of this pattern. I wouldn't have been able to share it with you today without her patience and expertise in testing this pattern for me. And get this... she made her own beads for her skullflake!!!

You may do whatever you'd like with skullflakes you make from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern. Thanks, and enjoy!


Finished Size: 5 inches from point to point
Materials: Size 10 crochet thread, size 8 crochet hook, 12 clear red 6 mm beads (or whatever size and color desired) empty pizza box, wax paper or plastic wrap, cellophane tape, glue, water, small container for glue/water mixture, paintbrush, stick pins that won't be used later for sewing, clear thread or fishing line

Skullflake Instructions

String 12 beads onto thread. (I use glue to stiffen tip of thread, let it dry, and then thread beads with "glue needle." I also tend to string more beads than needed, just in case.) I've also included instructions for a beadless version. Skip this step if you are using beads.

Starting at inside of flake, at jaw of skulls, ch 48. Being careful not to twist ch, sl st into 1st ch. Ch 1.

Round 1: 1 sc in same ch, 2 sc in next ch, 1 sc in next ch, [yo and draw up loop in next ch, yo and pull through 2 loops, repeat 4 more times, yo and pull through all loops on hook] (5 dc cluster made), *1 sc in next ch, 2 sc in next ch, 1 sc in next ch, 5 dc cluster over next 5 ch; repeat from * around 4 more times for a total of 6 jawbones; sl st in starting sc.

Round 2: Making teeth, ch 1 (does not count as sc), sc in same st, ch 1, sl st in 2nd sc of 2 sc increase below, *ch 1, 1 sc in next sc, ch 1; working into top center of 5 dc cluster (as shown in photo below), 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc; ch 1, 1 sc in next sc (to minimize "Katherine Wheel hole", pull loop up through cluster below sc instead of just through sc as shown below, but hole also may be camouflaged during pinning and stiffening), ch 1, sl st in 2nd sc of 2 sc increase below; repeat from * around 4 more times; ch 1, 1 sc in next sc, ch 1; working into top center of 5 dc cluster, 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc; ch 1, sl st into starting sc.







Round 3: Round 3: *Ch 3, [2 sc in next ch 1 space] between next sc and dc (top of tooth); repeat [ ] 3 more times; repeat from * 5 more times; sl st into 1st ch of starting ch 3. (total of 8 sc across the top of each skull with chain 3 in between each skull)

Round 4: Forming nostrils, ch 6 (counts as 1 dc and ch 3), *sk ch 3 and next sc, 1 dc in each of next 3 sc, ch 2, 1 dc in next sc, ch 2 (nostrils formed), 1 dc in each of next 3 sc, ch 3; repeat from * around 4 more times; sk ch 3 and next sc, 1 dc in each of next 3 sc, ch 2, 1 dc next sc, ch 2, 1 dc in each of next 2 sc; sl st in 3rd ch of starting ch 6.

Round 5: *Ch 2, 2 sc in next dc, 1 sc in each of next 2 dc, 3 sc in next ch 2 sp, 3 sc in next ch 2 sp, 1 sc in each of next 2 dc, 2 sc in next dc; repeat from * around 5 more times; sl st in starting ch.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.



Round 6: Making eyes, ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), *sk ch sp below and next sc, 1 dc in each of next 4sc, slip bead up to needle, 1 dc in next sc, making sure bead stays at front of work facing you (I place each bead at final yo, prior to final draw through 2 loops of st), 1 dc in each of next 3 sc, slip bead up to needle, 1 dc in next sc, making sure bead stays at front of work, 1 dc in each of next 4 sc; repeat from * around 5 times, finishing with decrease 1 dc (yo, pull up loop through 4th sc, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, pull up loop through 5th sc, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, pull through remaining loops) across final 2 sc instead of 1 dc in each of next 4 sc on final repeat; sl st in 3rd ch of starting ch 3. (Total of 13 dc across each skull.)

(NOTE: Notice how placing the eyeballs in different stitches than what I've instructed here changes the personality. Close together and close to the nostrils makes the skull look mean or angry, while placing them further apart and/or higher on the skull – such as next row – makes the skull look goofy or happy.)

Beadless Version

Round 6: Making eyes, ch 3 (counts as *1 dc), sk ch sp below and next sc, 1 dc in each of next 3sc, ch 2, sk 2 sc, 1 dc in each of next 3 sc, ch 2, sk 2 sc, 1 dc in each of next 3 sc; repeat from * around 5 times, finishing with 1 dc in final 2 sc instead of 1 dc in each of next 3 sc on final repeat; sl st in 3rd ch of starting ch 3. (Total of 3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc, 2 ch and 3 dc across each skull.)



Round 7: Sl st in next dc, ch 1,1 sc in each of next 2 dc, 1 hdc in each of next 2 st, 1 dc in each of next 2 st, 2 tr in next st, 1 dc in each of next 2 st, 1 hdc in each of next 2 st, 1 sc in each of next 2 st, ch 1, sl st in same st; repeat from * around 5 times; 1 sc in each of next 2 st, 1 hdc in each of next 2 st, 1 dc in each of next 2 st, 2 tr in next st, 1 dc in each of next 2 st, 1 hdc in each of next 2 st, 1 sc in each of next 2 st, ch 1; sl st in starting sc.

Round 8: Forming tops of skulls, *ch 1, 1 hdc in each of next 2 st, 1 dc in each of next 3 st, 2 tr in each of next 2 st, 1 dc in each of next 3 st, 1 hdc in each of next 2 st, 1 sc in each of next 2 st, ch 1, sl st across next 3 st - sc, sl st and sc; repeat from * around 5 times, ending with sl st in final sc of 6th skull instead of sl st in each of next 3 st of final repeat; bind off. Weave in ends.

This flake is tight and dense enough that it does not need to be stiffened, but it hangs better if stiff. You also may make it with yarn instead of thread (worsted weight, size H hook), but it comes out HUGE, and you need much larger beads.

Finish: Tape wax paper or plastic wrap to top of empty pizza box. Pin skullflake to box on top of wax paper or plastic wrap.

Mix a few drops of water with a teaspoon of glue in small washable container. Paint skullflake with glue mixture, taking care not to drench beads with glue. (Gently clean beads with cotton swab if necessary.) Wash paintbrush and container thoroughly. Allow skullflake to dry at least 24 hours. Remove pins. Gently peel skullflake from wax paper or plastic wrap. Attach 10-inch clear thread to one skull, weaving in end. Wrap fishing line around tree branch (or tape to ceiling or any overhead surface) and watch skullflake twirl freely whenever you walk by! Skullflake also may be taped to window or tied to doorknob or cabinet handle.

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