Shoe Finishing

Shoe Finishing
SHOE FINISHING: The process which is used in the final stages of shoe production
to enhance the appearance and to restore the inherent properties of the upper leather is
called shoe finishing. The shoe finishing is an extra treatment which is given the
footwear at the end of the manufacturing journey. This finishing makes the footwear
more attractive.
OBJECTIVES OF SHOE FINISHING:

1. To update the quality of the shoe.
2. To increase the aesthetic appeal of the shoe.
3. To give some special appearance such as: Shadow effect as antique effect.
4. To impart the designed colour and level appearance to the surface.
5. To improve the feel or handle.
6. To develop brand loyalty for sustained interest.
7. To satisfy customer demand.
SHOE FINISHING PROCESS:

I. Wrinkle chasing
II. Cleaning
III. Repairing
IV. Filling by base coat application.
V. Top coat application
VI. Polishing
WRINKLE CHASING:
The operation which removes small creases that may appear in the upper after the shoe
has been delasted is known as wrinkle chasing. It is also known as hot blasting or ironing.
In wrinkle chasing, heat is applied to the surface of the material, which shrink the surface
slightly, tighten the grain and there by removing the crease.
Methods:
1. Hot blasting
2. Ironing
(i) HOT BLASTING:

Hot air under presser is directly applied to the surface of the material. Normally the
m/c is stationary and the shoe is moved under the hot air steam. Some machines have the
facility to inject water spray or steam trough the air jet which is beneficial to leathers by
reducing the tendency to burn and promoting shrinkage.
(II) IRONING:
Special electrically heated irons which is thermostatically controlled can be used for
ironing. The objective is to iron out creases by physical contact between the iron and the
surface of the upper. This is very useful for localised work where the hot air steam might
damage the parts of the shoe which are sensitive to heat such as: trims and bows, plastic
bindings etc.
DISADVANTAGES:
(i) BURNING & BLISTERING:
Great care should be taken to avoid heat build up in small localised area. All materials will
eventually be damaged by heat. The source of heat must be kept moving over the surface
and close inspection should be made to find out the sign of damage.
(II) PATENT AND HIGH GLOSS FINISH:

Very easily blistered or loses in the heat.
(III) DECOLOURIZATION:
Pastel shade, white and aniline finishes all have a tendency to decolour under heat. Check
the effect on scrap before attempting the bulk.
(IV) HIGH GREASE CONTENT LEATHER:

The heat may bring the greases to the surface and prevent adhesion of later finishing.
(V) SYNTHETICS:
In case of synthetics, wrinkle chasing is relatively ineffective and most of these materials
have poor resistance to heat.
Care must be taken to ensure that the hot air jet or iron does not come into contact with the
skin.
CLEANING:
The process of removing dirt, adhesive over-spill and other unwanted marks and contamination from
the shoe is known as cleaning of upper. The purpose of cleaning is to condition the finish surface to
accept dressings and other treatments.
PRINCIPLES TO FOLLOW WHEN CLEANING:

(i) The choice of cleaner and the method of clean should be suitable to the type of contamination
that is being removed and the type of finish on the upper.
(ii) Dry method is preferable than wet.
(iii) The possible mildest treatment is better if it can effectively remove the contamination. Such as:
The stronger the cleaner, the more finish it will remove in cleaning.
CLEANING OF VARIOUS MATERIALS:
Materials Cleaning agent

Colour code paint (on material Detergent
edge)
Spray marking Detergent
Elastic Solvent
Silver pen Solvent
Grease Solvent
Thermoplastic adhesive Blunt knife
Rubber adhesive Rubber
PU,Neoprene adhesive Rubber
On suede leather use only an abrasive/blunt knife or wire brush.
Apply detergent with a sponge and solvent with a cloth rub until dry.
TYPES OF LIQUID CLEANERS:

(i) Water based
(ii) Water/solvent based
(iii) Solvent based
(iv) Cleaners/polishes
(v) Conditioners
WATER BASED:
These are very mild types of cleaner and contains soaps, wetting, dispersing and emulsifying
agents (detergents) and sometimes weak alkalis such as: ammonia dissolved or suspended in
water. This cleaners are mild enough to use for machine cleaning and are suitable for overall
removal of the general grime and dirt picked up in the factory from handling.
WATER/SOLVENT BASED:
Cleaners of this types are made from solvents which mixes with water such as: methylated
sprit and acetone. Some of these cleaners can be strong and will quickly attack and strip off
some finishes. These cleaners are suitable for overall cleaning of certain finishes that are
unaffected by these solvents such as PU coated fabrics, patents etc. They have a big
advantages over water based in that they dry much quicker.
SOLVENT BASED CLEANER:
The solvents in this type derived from petroleum and can be mixed with other solvents of the
same type to give different cleaning powers. These are suitable for removing grease, oils and
waxes. They are very quick in drying. Solvents are: Petroleum ether, white spirit, carbon
tetrachloride, acetone etc.
CLEANERS/POLISHERS:
These are supplied as gels and contain solvent cleaners and polishing agents, which remain on
the surface after the solvents have evaporated. They are very suitable for patents and PU coated
fabrics. Applicator by sponge or cloth and after drying can be polished on a power mop.
CONDITIONERS:
Conditioners are water based and are designed to open up the surface for efficient cleaning.
CLEANING METHODS:
Cleaning can be done by both wet and dry by hand and machine
DRY CLEANING (BY HAND):

The items used for this method are:
I. Crepe rubber: For removing all types of adhesives.
II. Soft sponge rubber: For brushing the suede nap.
III. Brushes: For removing general dust and dirt from suede.
IV. Scouring pads: For removing general dust and dirt from suede.
V. Dull knife: For scraping away hard substances like waxes. Sometimes warming the
knife slightly to get the knife under to lift contaminants from the surface.
VI. Emery paper (Various fine grades of grit): For rising and even up any suede nap that
has been badly treated or discoloured.
Dry cleaning also has to be employed on all types of fabrics as liquid leave ‘tide marks’
DRY CLEANING BY MACHINE:

For using the brushes, dry on the machine requires a hard finish which will stand up to
friction and the heat generated. The operation needs skill to use just sufficient pressure to
remove dirt without damaging the finish.
WET CLEANING BY HAND:
The attraction of hand cleaning is that selective cleaners can be used and each shoe can
be given individual treatment. Although taking longer, It is probably the preferred
method for a delicately finished leathers and upper materials. Cleaners are applied by
cloth (white cotton cloth pieces are best)wrapped around the fingers rubbing gently
over the surface or by sponge when very little rubbing pressure is required.
WET CLEANING BY MACHINE:

The machine has only one application for cleaning and usually a mild water based type
is chosen for general cleaning. Care should be taken not to damage the finish. Any
stubborn areas may have to be cleaned by hand to avoid damage. The amount of
cleaner applied to the brush should be adjusted and not excess.
EXPLANATION OF WETTING OUT AND DRYING OUT:

After cleaning, upper must be allowed to thoroughly dry out before other operation,
otherwise their will be lack of adhesion with the next coat of dressing or the possibility
of bloom developing later in the “shoe box”.
A cleaner to be effective must “wet out” the material being cleaned. If the liquid does
not spread out on the surface but run together in drops, it is not wetting the finish and
should not be used.
REPAIRING:
During the shoe making process, upper material is subjected to a variety of abrasive and
stretching actions, which can adversely affect the appearance of the shoe. To remove or to
disappear these adverse affect, the process which is performed is known as repairing.
PURPOSE OF REPAIRING:
The purpose of repairing is to bring the shoe to an acceptable standard before continuing the
other operations in the shoe operation. It can be done by repair crayons, repair pastes and spray
paints for repairing upper materials.
CAUSE OF DAMAGE DURING SHOE MAKING PROCESS:

 Over roughing along the feather edge.
 Scuffing of the finish during handling.
 Damage of the finish by solvent and heat.
 Grain crack during lasting.
 Increase in shade variation of upper leather.
FILLERS(REPAIRING AGENT):
Fillers are available either in cream or in liquid form. Objectives of filling:
• These products are used to fill the upper leathers, which have developed an open or hungry
look after lasting.
• They act as base coat for facilitating the top dressing.
• They seal the surface so that the top coat does not sink in.
• They enhance the gloss that necessary for inferior quality leather.
• REPAIRING AGENT AND THE MAIN FEATHERS
OF THE REPAIRS.
TOP DRESSING:
This is the final and most important treatment which gives the shoe
its final appearance.
FACTORS OF DRESSING FOR SUCCESS:

• Correct and through cleaning.
• Compatibility of the dressing with the material finish.
• Condition of the upper before spraying.
• Correct application.
• Correct spray gun adjustment and technique.
• Selection of suitable guns, nozzle sizes.
• Good maintenance of the equipment.
TYPES OF DRESSING:
1. Water based
2. Solvent based
3. Creams, polishes and waxes
WATER BASED:
Water based dressing are used only on leather and are not so durable as solvent
based types. Water based dressing of older types are based on wax emulsion and
proteins. The modern sprays are made from acrylic resin emulsions and are suitable
for use on protein and nitrocellulose coated leathers. They are colourless.
SOLVENT BASED:
Solvent based dressing form strong coating which are compatible with a wide range
of upper materials. These are more durable, fast drying, resistance to water spotting
and scuffing can be made in wide range from matt to high gloss and impart a kind
of handle to the surface. These are based on cellulose derivatives, acrylic or
polyacrylates.
CREAMS, POLISHES AND WAXES:
Such products are non film forming. Normally wax polishes are used and are widely
available either natural or pigmented to match the colour. Surface waxes sometimes acts as a
water repellent to footwear although they can not be regarded as water proofing agents.
Silicon has been introduced in creams for patents to prevent its sticking to itself as can
happen in the shoe box. Waxes and creams are also suitable for suitable for gloss
enhancement or to give some special appearance or leather look of synthetic materials.
Creams could be soft, medium or hard. That can be applied by sponge or cloth.
DIFFERENCE BETWEEN LEATHER FINISHING AND SHOE FINISHING:

Shoe Finishing

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Shoe Finishing

OBJECTIVES OF SHOE FINISHING:

SHOE FINISHING PROCESS:

(i) HOT BLASTING:

(II) PATENT AND HIGH GLOSS FINISH:

(IV) HIGH GREASE CONTENT LEATHER:

PRINCIPLES TO FOLLOW WHEN CLEANING:

CLEANING OF VARIOUS MATERIALS:

Materials Cleaning agent

TYPES OF LIQUID CLEANERS:

DRY CLEANING (BY HAND):

DRY CLEANING BY MACHINE:

WET CLEANING BY MACHINE:

EXPLANATION OF WETTING OUT AND DRYING OUT:

CAUSE OF DAMAGE DURING SHOE MAKING PROCESS:

FACTORS OF DRESSING FOR SUCCESS:

DIFFERENCE BETWEEN LEATHER FINISHING AND SHOE FINISHING:

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