17 Painting Anjana
17 Painting Anjana
17 Painting Anjana
ANJANA GOWRI
PAINTING AND PAINTS
Painting
Practice of applying paint to a surface (known as base
material).
To impart decorative and protective finish.
plaster surfaces.
Paints
Liquid compositions of pigments and binders
Thin coats applied dry to form a solid film
surface.
PURPOSE OF PAINTING
Protection:
Paint serves as a protective shield between the base materials and the deteriorating
elements
The elements can be sunlight, temperature variations, fresh and salt water, water
Illumination :
Light colours reflect light and help brighten the room.
Gloss paints reflect more light and create glare hence should be avoided.
Yellow
SOLVENTS OR THINNERS
Added to make the paint thin so that it can be applied easily.
Helps the paint in penetrating the porous surface of the background.
Reduces the gloss of paint.
Most commonly used thinner is turpentine oil.
For external use minimum quantity of turpentine is used as it is
affected by weather.
Few paints and the thinners used in them are:
Oil paintsSpirit of turpentine, Naphtha and Benzine
Cellulose paints Ethyl amyl acetate
Distempers Water
CLASSIFIACTION AND
TYPES OF PAINTS
Mixed classification
CLASSIFICATION BASED ON
BINDERS
Oil paints
Paints based on non-oil resins
Cellulose paints
Miscellaneous paints
CLASSIFICATION BASED ON
ULTIMATE USE
Fungicidal paints
Advantages:
Weather resistant
Water proof
Corrosion resistant
Visibility in darkness
Better appearance
Anti-corrosive Paint
Protect metal surface from corrosion
Oil (mostly linseed oil), strong drier and colouring mixed with fine sand.
Lasts longer
Asbestos Paint
Contains fibrous asbestos
For surfaces exposed to acidic gases and steams and also for patch work
Bituminous Paint
Prepared by dissolving asphalt or tar in naphtha or white spirit.
Alkali resistant
Casein Paint
Casein (protein extracted from milk) mixed with base having white
pigments
Applied on walls, ceilings wall boards etc.
Cellulose Paint
Prepared from nitrogen-cotton, celluloid sheets, photographic film and
amyl acetate substitutes.
Paint hardens by evaporation of solvent
Readily made by mixing water to powder to obtain thick paste and diluting
it
Water proof
Colloidal Paint
No inert material
More settling time because of colloidal properties
Emulsion Paint
Vehicle : Synthetic resins like polyvinyl acetate
Highly alkali resistant
Graphite Paints
Black colour
For iron surfaces in contact with ammonia chloride, sulphur gases etc.
Inodorous Paints
Has white lead or zinc white mixed with methylated spirit.
Shellac with traces of linseed oil and caster oil is mixed with spirit.
Priming
Stopping
Under-coatings
Finishing Coat
Preparation Of Surface
Surface dusted to remove dust and foreign matter
Heads of nails punched to a depth 3 mm below the surface
Greasy spots removed using white muslin soaked in turpentine
Surface dried and glass papered.
Knotting
Process of covering the knots in wood work with substances
They prevent resins from coming out
Two methods : Ordinary knotting and Patent
Ordinary knotting :
Two coats applied.
Second applied 10 mins after first coat.
First coat is of heated solution of red lead, water and glue
Second coat is of a solution of red lead, linseed oil and turpentine
Patent:
Coat of hot lime
Scraped off after 24 hrs.
Ordinary knotting carried out
Priming
Process of applying first coat of paint (primer) to close the pores
Surface rubbed with abrasive paper
Proportion of ingredients in paint varied from consecutive layers
Usually it has 3kg each of red lead and white lead mixed with 3L of
turpentine
Different composition for internal and external work
Applied before fixing the wood work in position.
Stopping
Process of rubbing down surface by pumice stone or glass paper
Cracks and nail holes filled with putty ( chalk +linseed oil)
After putty dries up, surface again rubbed with pumice stone
For hard work hard stopping is done one-third white lead + ordinary
putty
Under coatings
Second and third coatings applied
First coat is prime coat
Same shade as finishing coat
Sufficient time for drying provided between the coats
For superior work, each coat rubbed down by pumice stone before
next coat
Finishing Coat
Applied after the under-coat is perfectly dry
Should be smooth, uniform and free from patches and brush marks
Applied by a skilled painter only
RE-PAINTING OLD WOOD WORK
Oil paint removed by:
Applying solution of caustic soda and water
Applying mixture of soft soap, potash and quick lime and washed
off after 24hrs.
Applying mixture of washing soda and quick lime and washing off
after an hour.
Surface cleaned using pumice stone or glass paper
Two or three fresh coats applied.
PAINTING NEW IRON AND
STEEL WORK
Cleaning of surface:
Scale and rust cleared by scrapping or brushing with steel wire
brushes.
Oil and grease by washing surface with petrol or benzene.
Bloom
Formation of dull patches
Defect in paint or bad ventilation
Crawling or sagging
Excessive thickness of paint
Fading
Gradual loss of colour
Effect of sunlight on pigments
Flaking
Dislocation of small portions of painted surface
Due to poor adhesion
Flashing
Formation of glossy patches
Due to bad workmanship, cheap paint or weather action
Grinning
Defect in which the background or surface of base material is
clearly seen.
Due to insufficient opacity of final coat.
Running
Formation of small areas not covered by paint.
Due to very smooth base surface which causes the paint to run.
Sponification
Formation of soap patches on painted surface
Due to chemical action of alkalies.