OPTIMIZATION OF

FINISHING
PARAMETERS TO
IMPART VARIOUS
FINISHES ON
DIFFERENT FIBRES
 FINISHING
 Any operation (other than preparation
and coloring) that improves the
appearance and/or usefulness of fabric
after it leaves the loom or knitting
machine.

Finishing is the final series of

operations that produces finished textile
fabric from grey goods.
The word "finish" means all the different
treatments applied to a fabric to change such
things as its
 Appearance
 Feel or hand
 Wear ability or care requirements
 Classification of Finishes

Textile Finishes are classified in several ways:

According to function

Aesthetic Functional
Finishes Finishes
 According to type of machinery

Chemical Mechanical
Finishes Finishes
 According to the quality

Temporary Permanent

Semi
Permanent
 FINISHING PARAMETERS
S. PROCESS PARAMETERS TO FREQUENCY
No. CHECK

1. Preparation of paste (a) conc. of chemicals & Each batch of solution

/solution auxiliaries. prepared.
(b) time of boiling.
2. - pH in fabric for resin Thrice in a lot from
finishing different places.
3. Application of paste or (a) Viscosity •Thrice in a shift/lot
solution to fabric & drying (b) (b) temperature •Continuous monitoring
of fabric. (c) Wet pick up •Once in a month to cover
major sorts
(d) Pressure at padding •Continuous monitoring
mangle
(e) Temp. of drying •Continuous monitoring
(f ) Moisture content of Continuous monitoring
dried fabric on moisture indicator
(g) Speed of machine •Thrice a shift
S. PROCESS PARAMETERS TO FREQUENCY
No. CHECK
4. Curing (a) Temperature •Continuous monitoring
(b) Time of cuing and/or •Thrice in shift
speed of the machine

2. Calendering (a) Moisture in fabric •Thrice in a shift

(b) Temperature of metal •Thrice in a shift
bowl
(c) Pressure on bowls •At the beginning of new
lot
(d) Surface of wax bar •Thrice in a shift
 Cotton

Cotton is a fibrous material

of plant Origin and the basis
of all natural and man-made
cellulosic fibres.
 FINISHES ON COTTON FABRIC
 Chemical finishes
1. Easy care finish
2. Soft finishes
3. Resin finish

 Mechanical finish
1. Stentering
2. calendering
 Easy care finish
High durable press rating, high dry & wet crease
recovery angles.
Minimal shrinkage, abrasion loss, tensile/tear
strength loss.
Little effect on shade & fastness of dyed fabric.
Good absorbency.
Good pilling resistance.
Desirable handle.
S . No. ITEMS PARAMETERS CONTROL

1. Type of water used Tap water Hardness is measured

before using .
2. pH of bath 4 - 5( used Acetic Thrice in the process
Acid to adjust the
pH )
3. Pick up 80% by weight

4. Temperature Ambient ( 27 – 28 Taken after equal

°C ) intervals
 SOFTENING FINISHES

Softening finishes are among the most

important of textile chemical after
treatments.
With chemical softeners , textiles can
hand achieve an agreeable , soft hand
( supple , pliant , sleek and fluffy) , some
smoothness \, more flexibility and better
drape and pliability.
 PARAMETERS TO BE CONTROLED
Emulsion stability :- When the stability of a normal (not
micro) emulsion is very high in an exhaust treatment , then
the softening effect decreases. An emulsion of moderate
stability is gives the best results , probably because small
drops of the emulsified softener can exhaust to the fibre
surface. Poor emulsion stability causes stains.
Emulsion parameters
NORMAL MICRO
EMULSION EMULSION
Size of the drops 150-300 10-20
(nm)
Appearance Milky cloudy, Clear as water ,
scattering of light of because the
wavelength of 400 droplets are much
nm and more smaller than the
wavelength of
visible light.
Emulsifier content Normal (~ 3 % 0n Very high (can be
weight of the equal to softener
softener solids ) solid)
Distribution after On the fibre surface More inside the
application fibre bundle

Handle Soft to greasy Very soft , not

greasy

Stability to Moderate High

mechanical forces

Substantivity Good Less good

Effect on None Sometimes negative

crockfastness (because of the high
emulsifier content)
 Yellowing :- this problem arises especially with undyed fabrics.
it can be caused by the oxidation cationic softener
anionic FBA . Dispersing agent can also be helpful
to remove yellowing of substrate.
 Volatility:- Some softeners are volatile in nature or contain
volatile component . During drying , heat setting or
curing these volatile component can condense on
cooler areas of the ovens and then drop back onto
the fabric , causing spots. Heating the top of the
ovens can help prevent this problem.
 Crease Resistant Finishes

These finishes are applied to cellulose fibres

(cotton, linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily.

Permanent Press fabrics have crease

resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and also
help to maintain creases and pleats
throughout wearing and cleaning.
 Crease Resistant Finishing Parameters
S. No. ITEMS PARAMETERS METHODS OF STANDARDS ACTION
TO CHECK CHECKING NECESSARY

1. pH of cloth Universal Neutral or

for finishing ----- indicator slightly acidic -----
2. Finishing •Mode of Add thermo-
paste addition of ----- setting resin &
preparation chemicals catalyst last
•Final volume •Measure height -----
of solution
•pH paper or -----
•pH meter
3. Application •Moisture •Feel or
of resin content of f/c laboratory test
finishing before finishing
solution •Wet pick-up ----- -----
•Mangle pressure •Pressure gauge
S. ITEMS PARAMETER METHODS STANDAR ACTION
No. S TO CHECK TO CHECK D NECESSAR
Y
4. Curing •Temperature •Thermometer •As fixed by •Adjust the
•Thermo paper the mill ±5% working of
heaters
•Time •Stop watch •As decided •Adjust the
•Speed by the mill speed of the
indicator machine

The fabric is padded through the resin finishing solution, dried on the
stenter and cured in the polymeriser.
FINISHING OF COTTON FABRIC ON
STENTER.

These are final processes applied to set the warp and

weft of woven & knitted fabrics at right angles to each
other, and to stretch and set the fabric to its final
dimensions.

As the fabric passes through the heated chamber,

creases and wrinkles are removed, the weave is
straightened, and the fabric is dried to its final size.
When the process is applied to wet wools it is called
crabbing.
Stentering machines
 FINISHING PARAMETERS OF STENTERING
OF COTTON FABRIC
S. No. ITEMS PARAMETERS METHODS STANDARDS ACTION
TO CHECK OF NECESSA
CHECKING RY
1. Moisture content Moisture meter Around 6% Note temp.
of dried fabric. or lab. Test. in different
chambers.
Note the
steam
pressure.
Adjust either
steam or
speed flow

2. expanders Before the visual No crease Adjustment

stentering formation of expanders
or fabric.
Repairs of
expanders.
S. No. ITEMS PARAMETERS METHODS STANDARDS ACTION
TO CHECK OF NECESSA
CHECKING RY

3. Fabric width Delivery end of Measurement by As fixed by the Adjust the

the machine tape or ruler mill width of
fabric on
stentering
device.

4. overfeeding 5% overfeeding
is necessary
 Calendering
Calendering may be defined as the
modification of the surface of a fabric by the
action of heat and pressure.
The finish is obtained by passing the fabric
between heated rotating rollers when both
speed of rotation and pressure applied are
variable.
The surface of rollers can be either smooth
or engraved to provide the appropriate
finish to fabric.
The rollers may be made of various material
from hardened steel to elastic
thermoplastic.
 Types of Calendering
Swissing or normal gloss or
simple calendering
Chintz or glazing or friction
Calendering
Cire Calendering
Embossed Calendering
Moiré Calendering
Schrenier Calendering
 Objectives of Calendering
To improve the fabric handle and to impart a
smooth silky touch to the fabric
To compress the fabric and reduce its
To reduce the air permeability by closing the
To increase the luster
To reduce the yarn slippage
To increase the opacity of the fabric
Surface patterning by embossing
Types of calendering
PARAMETERS TO BE CONTROL
DURING CALENDERING.
1. Pressure, & distribution of pressure, across
the nip.
2. Temp. of the bowls.
3. Speed, & relative speed, of the bowls.
Wool Fibre
 Introduction
Wool is the fiber derived
from the hair of animals of
the Caprinae family,
principally Sheep, but the
hair of certain species of
other mammals such as
goats and rabbits may also
be called wool.
 STRUCTURE OF WOOL
 The Microscopic structure
of wool has following
parts:
 Cuticle
 Macro Fibril
 Micro Fibril
 Proto Fibril
 Wool Polymer
1. Epicuticle- thin outer membrane
covering the cuticle.
2. Cuticle- protective layer of
overlapping flattened cells called
scales.
3. Cortex- major component of wool
fiber, inner layer.
4. Medulla- the central core found
primarily in medium and coarse
wool.
 FINISHES ON WOOL FABRIC

 WET FINISHING  DRY FINISHING

1. SCOURING 1. SHEARING
2. MILLING 2. PRESSING
3. CARBONISING 3. STEAMING & DECATISING
 MILLING OF WOOL
 Milling is one of the most important process for finishing
wool containing fabrics.

AIM OF MILLING

 Aim of milling is to increase the

 To increase the mass per unit surface of the fabric i.e by

reducing its length & width i.e. increase in thickness of
fabric.
 To give the fabric special hand and surface effect.
 many worsted fabrics are harsh , crisp & too firm. Such
fabrics become soften by lightly milled process.
PARAMETERS TO BE CONTROL

S. No. PARAMETERS FREQUENCY

1. pH Alkaline (pH ~ 10)
Acidic (pH ~ 4)

2. % of milling liquor Woolen (80 -100%)

Worsted (100 -120%)

3. Time Worsted (15 min)

Very heavy Woolen (3
-4 hours)
 CARBONISING OF WOOL
The elimination of vegetable matter residues , which are present in
scoured wool , can be achieved by

 Mechanical
 Carding
 Combing

 Chemical
 Carbonising

From a chemical point of view Carbonising means attacking cellulose

with strong acid at a high temperature.
PARAMETERS TO BE CONTROL

S. No. PARAMETERS CONTROL

1. Residual Acid content Should not be

( H2SO4) greater than 1%

2. High temp. 130 – 140°C

3. Neutralization with pH ~6
sodium acetate
 STEAMING & DECATISING OF WOOL

Steaming:- where the fabric is unrestrained & can

therefore change its dimensions.

Types of Steaming:-
 Wet steam
 Dry saturated steam
 Super heated steam

PARAMETER

 Temperature :-

 Super heated steam ~ 147 °C

Dry saturated steam ~ 99 °C
Decatising
Anti microbial finish on wool

•The most trouble causing organisms are fungi &

bacteria.
•Fungi cause multiple problems to textile
including discoloration,coloured stains & fibre
damage.
•Bacteria are not as damaging to fibre’s, but can
produce unpleasant odour,& a slick,slimy feel.
•Wool is more likely to suffer bacterial attack
than cotton & cotton is more likely than wool to
be attacked by fungi.
Parameters
s.no parameter control
1. pH Near about
5-9
2. Temp. 36-40 c

Properties of antimicrobial
1.Antimicrobial must kill or stop the
growth of microbes.
2.Antimicrobial must be safe for the
manufacturer to apply the consumer to
wear.
3.Antimicrobial finish must be easily
applied at the textile mill &compatible
with other finishing agents.