Textile Internship : Dyeing Report

Submitted by:- Soumya Milind,

Aman Kumar,
Sandeep Majhi

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Table of Contents

1. Introduction 3

2. Soft Flow Dyeing 4-5

3. Cold Pad Batch Dyeing 6-7

4. Finishing 8-9

5. Steps 10-13

6. Testing 14-26

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1. DYEING INTRODUCTION
The most commonly used processes for imparting colour to cotton are piece
dyeing and yarn dyeing. In piece dyeing, which is used primarily for fabrics that
are to be a solid colour, a continuous length of dry cloth is passed full-width
through a trough of hot dye solution. The cloth then goes between padded
rollers that squeeze in the colour evenly and removes the excess liquid. In one
variation of this basic method, the fabric, in a rope-like coil, is processed on a
reel that passes in and out of a dye beck or vat.

Dyeing is the application of dyes on textile materials such as fibres, yarns and
fabrics with the goal of achieving colour with desired shades colour fastness.
Dyeing is normally done in a special solution and process which is containing
dyes and particular chemical material as per desired shade and quality.

1.1 DYEING PROCESS AND INFRASTRUCTURE:

Methodology: A dyeing process is the interaction between a dye and a fibre.
Generally, a dyeing process involves adsorption (transfer of dyes from the
aqueous solution onto the fibre surface) and diffusion (dyes diffused into the
fibre).
Infrastructure: Pratibha has a complete range range of dyeing infrastructure in
which mainly two technology- Exhaust dyeing with soft flow machines and cold
pad batch dyeing with CBR (Padder and Washing range) are used to produce
the fabric.

1.2 KEY PERSONNEL:

1. Mr. Jitendra Rathi: Overview of Dyeing processing units, recycling
method and finishing.

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2. PROCESS FLOW DIAGRAM FOR SOFT FLOW DIAGRAM

GREIGE FABRIC RECEIVING AS PER PLAN

RECONFIRM RECIPE FROM DYE LAB ON ACTUAL FABRIC

LOADING IN MESTA (SOFT FLOW)

FABRIC PROCESSING (PRETREATMENT+DYEING+AFTERTREATMENT)

UNLOADING (NOTE ALL CHECKPOINTS)

SHADE CHECK (SEND FABRIC CUTTING FOR FASTNESS CHECK)

(IF OK)

HAND OVER TO FINISHING DEPARTMENT

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2.1 PROCESS:-
FLOW DYEING
 This technique is the most common method for reactive dyes as it is
resistant to small changes.
 It comprises of two steps: exhaustion and fixation.
 In exhaustion the dyes are exhausted from the dye bath and the fibre
phase.
 Mostly reactive and disperse dyestuff are used. Before applying the
dyestuff fabric needs to be pretreated with the help of various chemicals
like agent NaOH, H202, Peroxide Stabilizer etc. and the pretreatment to
remove the impurities (Pectin, Wax) which are coming with cellulose and
there impurities has to be removed before dyeing otherwise dyestuff
molecules will not go into the fibres.
 In soft flow dyeing machine water is used for keeping the fabric in
circulation. The conception difference of this equipment from
conventional jets that operates with a hydraulic system is that the fabric
rope is kept circulating during the whole processing cycle (right from
loading to unloading).

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3. PROCESS FLOW DIAGRAM FOR COLD PAD BATCH DYEING

GREIGE FABRIC RECEIVING AS PER PLAN

RECONFIRM RECIPE FROM DYE LAB ON ACTUAL FABRIC

PRETREATMENT ON CBR & DRY/HEATSET

CPD PADDING &DWELLING

AFTER TREATMENT (NOTE ALL CHECKPOINTS)

SEND FABRIC CUTTING FOR FASTNESS CHECK THEN SHADE CHECK

(IF OK)

HAND OVER TO FINISHING DEPARTMENT

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3.1 PROCESS:-
COLD PAD BATCH DYEING
 It is a semi continuous process that uses a padding, mangle the fabric
with dye liquor and a suitable alkali (for fixing). After the roll is padded, it
is immediately wrapped. It is then batched or rotated continuously for 24
hours.
 The process fabric is being pretreated before dyeing on CBR with the
help of various chemicals like (Welting agent, H2O2, Peroxide stabilizer
etc.) and the purpose of treatment to remove the impurities (Pectin,
Wax, Kitties) are coming with cellulose. Their impurities have to be
removed before dyeing otherwise dyestuff molecules will not penetrate
into the fibre.
 The CPB procedure is simple since the only step involved is the passage
of fabric through the dye bath and squeezing through the dyeing padder
with subsequent batching for twelve hours. The long batching time
makes CPB procedure less attractive to many dyers seeking high
production rates.

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4. FINISHING
A finish is applied to the fabric once it has been made to improve its
appearance, feel or other properties. Finishing processes are carried out to
improve the natural properties or attractiveness of the fabric and to increase its
serviceability. The advantages of finishing process are :- soft hand feel,
controlled shrinkage, proper GSM, controlled spirality, etc.
4.1. INFRASTRUCTURE
There are many machines used to finish the fabric and all of them are equally
important according to the finish we want in the particular fabric.
4.1.1. STENTER
 Imparting a particular mechanical finish affecting appearance and feel,
commonly known as stenter finish.
 Heat setting is done by the stenter for lycra fabric, synthetic and blended
fabric.
 Width of the fabric is controlled by the stenter.
 Applying and fixation of several finishing agents by stenter machine.
 Loop of the knit fabric is controlled.
 Moisture of the fabric is controlled by the stenter
4.1.2. PIN FRAME DRYER
 Drying machine always used for the shrinkage, relaxation and tensionless
drying of tubular or open-width knitted fabrics. Silicone softeners are
generally used to provide the elasticity and softness in fabric.
 The fabric guidance, whether single, double or multiple strands is
affected at one treatment level.
4.1.3. TUMBLE MACHINE
 The tumbling action in a tumble drier has the greatest influence on the
dimensional stability and distortion of weft knitted cotton fabrics.
 Fabric passes through the new tumble with the moisture (25-30%) either
through the semi dry or spray system.
 An electric motor rotates the drum filled with wet clothes,
simultaneously driving the fan which circulates hot air through the drum.
A heater heats the air, and a thermostat maintains the correct
temperature.

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4.1.4. SLITTING MACHINE
Slitting machine is used for tubular knit fabric to make it in open form fabric
finishing line. Knit fabrics which are processed in Rope Form must be opened to
full width for further processing.
The machine consists of a turntable, a rope de-twister, a drop stitch sensing
slitting unit with draw rollers and a plaiting unit. The equipment is mounted on
its own structure for smooth operation.
The Twist Detector consists of 2 sensor rollers and one proximity sensor.
The turntable arrangement with its drive offers smooth and fast working.
The primary purpose of slitting machine is:-
 Used to remove excess water after pre-treatment and dyeing
 To deliver fabric uncreased, tension free state.
 Before squeezing balloon is formed with the help of compressed air
passing by a nozzle or air sprayer.
 Removing the microfibers or fluff from the fabric.
 To impart soft finish to the fabric by using required softener.

4.2 QUALITY ASSURANCE OF FABRIC

Quality is the main for any products. It's a mandatory duty for the garment
manufacturers to inspect all the sections of garment manufacturing. Fabric
inspection is one of the parts of assuring the quality of the fabric
 Fabric inspection has done in the case of knit fabrics.
 for the assessment of the fabric quality we are using 4 points system
which determines the fabric grading.

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5. STEPS FOLLOWED FOR DYEING
5.1 BATCHING
In order to make inspected grey textiles appropriate for the subsequent
batching operation, they are separated into several batches with reasonable
quantities in accordance with the machine's capacity and nozzle number. It is
important to pay close attention to whether the fabric in each nozzle of a
machine is the same length. In the textile business, the batching process is a
step before dyeing. In most cases, batching entails receiving a part of grey
fabric and sending another section to the dyeing area for colouring. The
preparation of the fabrics that need to be coloured and processed for a certain
lot of a specific order is known as batching.

5.2 SCOURING AND BLEACHING

To make a textile material more hydrophilic, impurities including oil, fat, wax
dust, and dirt are removed by the process of scouring. The grey fabric is then
bleached to remove any remaining natural colours and give knitted fabric a
uniform whiteness. For this, hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) is employed . This is the
process to remove the hairiness of the fabric surface. Bio polishing is done after
the scouring and bleaching state. For special cases, it is also done after dyeing.
It is noted that excess dosing of enzymes can damage the fabric strength. The
dyeing process can thus be considered as taking place in three phases
 Attachment of the dye molecule to the surface of the fibre
 Penetration into the intermolecular spaces as well as diffusion through
the fibre &
 Orientation (and fixation) along the long chain molecules.
The solution of the dye from which it is applied is called the dye bath. A dye
may have direct affinity for a fibre (or vice versa) i.e., it is held by the fibre
either physically (absorption) or chemically (combination) as soon as the fiber
is immersed in the dye bath. The bulk dyeing procedure makes use of a winch
dyeing equipment. The unit has machines of various capacities. The machine
receives the fabric attached to a rope for loading. Water is poured in at the
same M:L ratio (1:20) as when dying a sample. The bath is filled with salt and
heated for 30 minutes at 40 degrees C.

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5.3 AFTER TREATMENT
This stage involves neutralising. Then a soaping agent removes the unfixed
colours. Higher or better quality soaping will improve your fastness property.
However, the dye colour is dim here. so that heavy soaping is not necessary. To
achieve better results, core neutralizer is applied here. However, acetic acid
alone can also be used as a neutralizer.
After doing a cold wash and an acetic wash, soaping is done. Washing in the
cold is done for removing the soda content in the fabric.

5.4 SLIT OPENING MACHINE

Slitting machine is used for tubular knit fabric to make it in open form. Some
buyers would prefer a open knitted fabric, this process is done to fulfil their
needs.

5.5 DRYING MACHINE

The washed fabric is dried using the Syncro Machine. The roller produces heat
continuously and the fabric gets straight when its passed through it.

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5.6 COMPACTING AND FOLDING MACHINE
Compacting machine is used to iron is finally using steam iron and to cut the lay
end according to buyers needs. A meter is fixed to the machine where the
length can be fed. If any defect is found at any given point, it is cut and sewed.
Each bundle weighs upto 20-30 KGs. The bundle then proceeds to the shipping
to the buyer.

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6. PHYSICAL TESTING

Physical Testing lab- flow chart

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6.1 NU MARTINDALE ABRASION & PILLING TESTER (M/C 001)
PURPOSE:- TO TEST ABRASION AND PILLING RESISTANCE OF THE FABRIC.

Loading procedure-

1. Lift the TOP Plate until it set in a

vertical position.
2. Adjust the DRIVE ROLLERS
according to the testing
requirement
3. Remove all the CLAMPING
RINGS (1 to 6) by turning them
in anticlockwise direction.
4. Place 140mm diameter felt pad
on each ABRADING TABLE.
5. Place 140mm specimen over the felt
6. Load the WEIGHT on the specimen to avoid the creases; relocate the
CLAMP RING & lock it firmly in position by turning it in a clockwise
direction.
7. Remove the WEIGHT & place it in mid of the M/C
8. Prepare the required size & no. of SPECIMEN HOLDER.
9. Put the SPECIMEN HOLDER in a vertical position on each loaded
ABRADING DISC (both the loaded specimens should face each other).
10.Relocate the TOP PLATE in a horizontal position by ensuring that the V-
SLIDES locale on the DRIVE ROLLERS is correct.
11.Set the SAMPLE HOLDER SPINDLE in SAMPLE HOLDER gently

Operation procedure-
1. Load the specimen (refer above loading procedure).
2. Switch on the main power supply
3. First check the motion of TOP PLATE holding the SPECIMEN HOLDER
SPINDLE by pressing P key.

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 4. Look at the DISPLAY SCREEN; press any key to move forward.
5. TOTALISER indicates total number of revolutions, countdown revolutions,
etc.
6. PRESET indicates requirement of no. of revolutions specified. It can be
increase & decrease with the help of ARROW keys.
7. CALIBRE option is to calibrate the machine setting.
8. Set the specified no. of revolution from PRESET option press ESC to move
to TOTALISER menu and press START (green) key.
9. Machine will beep and automatically stop after process completion
10.Press STOP (red) key to escape from snoozing option of machine and
unload the specimen or as per requirement of testing procedure.

6.2 MOTORISED
CROCK METER
PURPOSE: TO TEST THE
DRY & WET RUBBING
FASTNESS OF THE DYED
OR PRINTED FABRIC.

Operation procedure-
1. Switch on the
main power
supply and press SWITCH ON button at the back side of crockmeter
2. Machine consists of CONTROL PANEL, START BUTTON & RESET KNOB
3. On CONTROL PANEL, press RESET ARROW key to reset the no. of LOAD
ARM'S movements over specimen, to increase it press UP & for
decreasing press DOWN.
4. Ensure that the LOAD ARM is at in raised position.
5. Remove the FABRIC CLAMP PLATE.
6. Lay the specimen on the CROCKING TABLE and fix it by placing FABRIC
CLAMP.
7. Remove the SPRING CLIP from the CROCKING FINGER and fit fresh
CROCKING CLOTH to CROCKING FINGER. Ensure that their should no

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 crease on CROCKING CLOTH on the CROCKING FINGER facing CROCKING
TABLE
8. Carefully lower the LOADING ARM and press START BUTTON
simultaneously
9. The DRIVE will automatically stop in original position when counter
count down reaches zero,
10.Lift the LOAD ARM and store it in raised position.
11.Remove the SPECIMEN & CROCKING CLOTH.

6.3 ICI PILLING TESTER (IKON

INDUSTRIES ROACHES M/C
004)
PURPOSE: TO TEST THE PILLING
RESISTANCE OF THE FABRIC

Operation procedure-
1. Switch on the main power
supply.
2. Two counters are there on
the front side of the
machine. One is ROTATIONAL COUNTER (total no. of revolutions) and
second is REVERSEL COUNTER (breaks in between total no. of revolutions
for reverse movement.)
3. A ROTATARY REGULATOR is positioned just below two above counters
having three positions:
i. 30R-it runs the M/C at reverse & forward motion)
ii. 30-it runs the M/C at 30 RPM.
iii. 60-it runs the M/C at 60 RPM.
4. To set the no. of revolutions press the SEL key of the ROTATIONAL
COUNTER, now press the above six keys according to the no. of
revolutions needed. To confirm the process press SEL or to reset the
display nos press RST
5. If the machine has to be set on reverse mode, enter the data in the
REVERSEL COUNTER panel same as step no. 4.

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 6. After confirming the data fed for processing press GREEN SWITCH to
start
7. RESET regulator switch is to reset any data in between processing.

6.4 RANDOM TUMBLE PILLING TESTER (ROACHES RTPT-2 M/C

011)
PURPOSE: TO TEST THE PILLING RESISTANCE OF THE FABRIC

Operation procedure-
1. Switch on the main power
supply.
2. Three button white, yellow &
green place right corner.
a. Press White button for
on/off.
b. Press yellow for air
pressure
c. Press green for run the
machine rotation.
3. Timer place, the right corner of
the machine for time set by up
& down key
4. A ROTATARY REGULATOR is
positioned left corner for pressure setting. Pressure Required (2-3 PSI or
14-21 KPA).
5. To set the required time & required air pressure from the timer &
regulator Place the specimen in the chamber & Press the above-
mentioned green & yellow buttons to start

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6.5 WEIGHING BALANCE (IKON INDUSTRIES M/C 010-2 Essae)
PURPOSE: TO TEST THE WEIGHT
OF FABRIC GSM

Operation procedure-
1. Switch On: Turn on the
power supply to the
machine.
2. Zeroing: Press the "Zero" or
"Tare" button to reset the
display to zero.
3. Place the Object: Carefully
place the object to be
weighed on the weighing
pan.
4. Wait for Stabilization: Allow
the machine to stabilize and
display the weight reading.
5. Note the Reading: Record
the weight reading from the display.
6. Remove Object: Remove the object from the weighing pan.
7. Repeat: Repeat steps 3-6 for each object to be weighed.

6.6 TENSILE TESTER (SDL ATLAS H5K WITH HT400 PNEUMATIC

CONTROLLER)
PURPOSE:- TO TEST TENSILE STRENGTH AND EXTENSIBILITY OF THE FABRIC

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Operation procedure-
1. Power On: Turn on the power supply
to the machine.
2. Select Test Method: Choose the
appropriate test method and
parameters using the HT400
Pneumatic Controller.
3. Load Specimen: Carefully load the
prepared specimen into the testing
area.
4. Close Safety Gate: Close the safety gate to ensure operator safety.
5. Start Test: Press the "Start" button to begin the test.
6. Monitor Test: Monitor the test progress and results on the controller
display.
7. Test Completion: The machine will automatically stop when the test is
complete.
8. Record Results: Record the test results and save the data.

6.7 BURSTING STRENGTH TESTER (SELLQUICK EUROPE Phase 2,

M/C 012)
PURPOSE:- TO TEST BURSTING STRENGTH
OF THE FABRIC

Operation procedure-
1. Check whether the clamp bell &
Line Pressure are as per the test
requirement or not
2. If it is not as per test requirement
then change the clamp bell as per
requirement and set line pressure
by pressure gauge fixed on the wall
at the right side of the machine
3. Then check calibration as described
in the calibration process
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 4. Put the specimen under Clampbell 4
5. Keep down the safeguard by pulling down the handle
6. Rotate the clamp switch toward the left side, so the clamp bell is come
down on the test specimen
7. When the clamp bell comes down to the specimen, pressure is displayed
in the clamp supply regulator gauge which is near the clamp supply
regulator
8. Check whether the pressure displayed in the clamp supply regulator
gauge is as per testing requirement or not
9. If it is not as per requirement then adjust the clamp pressure by moving
the clamp supply regulator after setting the clamp pressure take out the
test specimen and again check the calibration of the machine
10.Then again repeat the step no 4 to 8.
11.Press the burst button on the right side of the machine till the sample is
burst(if the sample is not burst beyond 300kpa then release the hand
from the burst button and note down the bursting strength as 300+kpa)
12.When the sample is burst the bursting strength is displayed on a bursting
strength meter given at the back of the machine at the right corner when
the fabric is brust the red stick of the bursting strength meter is fixed.
Note down the reading
13.Keep up the safeguard by pulling up the handle
14.After that release the clamp bell by turning the clamp switch toward the
right side
15.Remove the tested specimen
16.Test 10 test specimen from one fabric
sample rewrite this properly

6.8 DYEING TESTING (DATACOLOR

AISA PACIFIC (HK) Ahiba nuance eco
15X300 cc)
PURPOSE:- TO TEST DYEING FASTNESS

Operation procedure-

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Pre-Operation Checks

1. Ensure the machine is properly installed and leveled.

2. Check the power supply and water connections.
3. Verify the machine's calibration and settings.

Step 1: Sample Preparation

1. Prepare the textile samples according to the test method.
2. Weigh the samples accurately.

Step 2: Machine Setup

1. Select the appropriate dyeing method and settings.
2. Set the temperature, time, and other parameters according to the test
method.
3. Load the samples into the beakers.

Step 3: Dyeing Cycle

1. Start the machine and begin the dyeing cycle.
2. Monitor the machine's performance and temperature control.

Step 4: Rinsing and Washing

1. After the dyeing cycle, rinse the samples with water.
2. Wash the samples according to the test method.

Step 5: Drying
1. Dry the samples according to the test method.

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Step 6: Evaluation
1. Evaluate the dyed samples for colorfastness, shade, and other properties.
2. Record the results and observations.

6.9 AUTO DISPENSER TF 120 (DATA COLOR, USA)

PURPOSE:- LIQUID COLOR DISPENSING

Pre-Operation Checks
1. Ensure the machine is properly
installed and calibrated.
2. Verify the power supply and
connections.
3. Check the dispensing tips and
tubes for damage or blockages.

Step 1: Sample Preparation

1. Prepare the liquid samples
according to the test method.
2. Ensure the samples are properly
labeled and identified.

Step 2: Machine Setup

1. Select the appropriate dispensing parameters (volume, speed, etc.).
2. Load the samples into the machine's sample holder.

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3. Select the desired dispensing tip and tube.

Step 3: Dispensing Cycle

1. Start the machine and begin the dispensing cycle.
2. Monitor the machine's performance and dispensing accuracy.

6.10 DATACOLOR SPECTRO 1000 (SPECTROPHOTOMETER)

PURPOSE: TO MEASURE THE REFLECTANCE AND TRANSMITTANCE OF FABRIC

Operation procedure-
Pre-Operation Checks
1. Ensure the instrument is properly calibrated and maintained.
2. Verify the power supply and connections.
3. Check the instrument's cleanliness and absence of scratches or damage.

Step 1: Sample Preparation

1. Prepare the sample according to the test method (e.g., cutting, folding, etc.).
2. Ensure the sample is clean, dry, and free of defects.

Step 2: Instrument Setup

1. Select the appropriate measurement mode (reflectance, transmittance, etc.).
2. Choose the desired illumination source (D65, A, C, etc.).
3. Set the measurement parameters (e.g., wavelength range, scan speed, etc.).

Step 3: Measurement

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1. Place the sample in the instrument's sample holder.
2. Close the sample compartment and ensure proper alignment.
3. Start the measurement process.
4. The instrument will scan the sample and collect data.

Step 4: Data Analysis

1. The instrument will calculate various color parameters (e.g., CIE Lab, ΔE,
etc.).
2. Analyze the data and evaluate the color properties of the sample.

Step 5: Reporting
1. Generate a report of the measurement results.
2. Include relevant information (e.g., sample ID, measurement conditions, etc.).

Testing parameters

For all Fiber

Testing required Requirements

Fabric Weight AST D3776 +/- 5%

Stretchability AST D2594 (10lbs) Reference only- needs to be the same

per fabric/program

Colorfastness AATCC 8 Wet

Dry

Shade changes after 3 washes AATCC Grade 4

135/150

Burst Strength(knit) ASTM D 3786 Fabric weight lower than 100gsm:min

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 30psi

Fabric weight than 100gsm: min.

35psi

Ph AATCC- 81 Whites 5.5 to 7, dyed 5 to 8.5

Piling ASTM D4970 Grade ¾ after 500rubs

Fiber content AATCC 20/20A ASTM No tolerance (Single Fiber)

D629.SASO 781
1%-3%(Blended Fiber)

For products with heat transfer: Heat To resist 10 home Laundering

transfer wash test (AATCC 135/150) following care instruction

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