International Journal of Multidisciplinary Trends 2024; 6(5): 01-05

E-ISSN: 2709-9369
P-ISSN: 2709-9350
www.multisubjectjournal.com Food culture of Bengal: Continuity and change
IJMT 2024; 6(5): 01-05
Received: 02-02-2024
Accepted: 06-03-2024 Dr. Susmita Bhattacharyya
Dr. Susmita Bhattacharyya
Assistant Professor,
DOI: https://dx.doi.org/10.22271/multi.2024.v6.i5a.421
Department of Sociology,
University of Calcutta, Abstract
Kolkata, West Bengal, India Bengali food has a extensive reputation for its celebrated assortment of varieties. People of Bengal are
very proud for their splendid tradition of food. Several cooking styles, ingredients, spices and motives
are responsible for the diversities of food in Bengal. The objectives of the study is 1] to describe
different trends in modern Bengali food culture with respect to socio – cultural context and 2] to
explore relevant factors of Bengali food culture with the emergent focus in relation to cultural
globalization. Analysis of data is done with tabular representations here. Sociologically it can be said
that the differentiation in tastes and habits of taking food are closely linked with cultural diversity. In
contemporary world of increasing globalization of culture, food habits turn to be Trans -national
identity. In Bengal the co existence of global as well as indigenous food becomes the new stand. Thus
focus area of the study can be related with sociology of food, sociology of culture with proper
emphasis broadly on sociology of life style.

Keywords: Food, culture, Bengali, habit, diversity

Introduction
Some basic needs are linked with the survival instinct of human individuals. Food should be
considered as the most elementary one. Vivid observation revealed the evolutionary nature
of the structure of food. Primarily hunting – gathering was the most effective process of
getting food. After that animal became the basis of having food in pastoral economy.
Subsequently agricultural society starts to subsist with new avenues of getting food with the
help of nature. The rule and specificity about food depends on the nature of society as well as
culture. Bengali food has a extensive reputation for its celebrated assortment of varieties.
People of Bengal are very proud for their splendid tradition of food. Several cooking styles,
ingredients, spices and motives are responsible for the diversities of food in Bengal.
Historically Bengali food has been associated with the oily and spicy content which were
recognized as harmful on the medical ground. But now the nature of food takes a new turn
with the growing focus on health consciousness. Today Bengali food becomes smarter and
‘fitness’ oriented. Hence it can be accepted truth that food is an inseparable component of
culture.

Theoretical Linkage: On the basis of Exchange theory it can be said that mutual interaction
between different societies ultimately results in emergence of new cooking styles. As
consequence of assimilation, absorption, acculturation and mutual exchange, marked
transformation has been occurred in the periphery of food and cooking. The names like
Margaret Mead, Roland Barthes, Claude Levi Strauss, Mary Douglas, and Marvin Harris
deserve attention in discussion of social aspect of food.
Ritzer pointed out in his theory of McDonaldization [As mentioned by A. Giddens in
Sociology] that fast food restaurant represents contemporary paradigm of formal rationality.
Four dimensions are associated with the features of fast food restaurants. These are
efficiency, predictability, an emphasis on quantity rather than quality and substitution of
nonhuman for human technologies. Interestingly, all the chains of McDonald’s restaurants
have some inherent similarities in the sphere of layouts, the procedures of ordering, staff
uniform, tables, packaging and service with smile. Language and interior décor may be
different on the basis of local influence. By analyzing this approach Ritzer wants to say that
Corresponding Author: society is moving towards highly standardized and regulated model. It is observed that now
Dr. Susmita Bhattacharyya the taste of youth is almost same. Hence according to Ritzer McDonaldization is making
Assistant Professor, social life more homogeneous, more rigid and less personal. In this age of globalization
Department of Sociology,
University of Calcutta, preparation of food is not limited to a particular territory, instead of those eating objects and
Kolkata, West Bengal, India eating patterns involve multiple stylizations crossing the national boundary.

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Wide spread café culture of Bengal can be linked with this food were clubbed together as ‘tiffin’ at that period of time.
aspect of Mcdonaldization. The remarkable part was that in the list, there was marked
Another theoretical context can be linked with food culture absence of specific Bengali food (Like luchi, aalur dam).
of Bengal. In the situations of French bakeries small scale With passage of time Bengali specific food become able to
operations are encouraged in place of standardized mass take their place in the category of snacks. Similar food items
production. The purpose is the production of fresh bread for like kochuri, gaja, nimki, chanachur, aalu kabli, fuchka and
local communities. French culture is linked with freshly so on were by now very admired among the Bengalis. But
baked goods. Hence the attempts to introduce mass food business of these types was not appropriately
production of bread were unsuccessful. Clegg [As structured then. So, the chief impediment for such food –
mentioned by A. Giddens in Sociology] pointed out that trade became unavailability of industrial network. Evidences
cultural factor plays the more important role than showed that Swami Vivekananda was a fond of hotel made
rationalization and efficiency. De-differentiation is a food then. Henceforth this was the tradition of old Kolkata.
characteristic feature of this kind of organization. De- Amalgamation of global food in Bengali platter is not a new
differentiation as a concept means a trend away from event. Historical data showed that Swami Vivekananda
narrowly specialized task towards the development of more himself cooked several items in 1899 for Sister Nibedita and
diverse skills. This kind of post-modern organization can be Sarala Debi Chawdhurani. Sister Nibedita gave the name of
visualized in the aspect of Bengali sweets. The theory of the event as ‘geographical lunch’ because it was assortment
food consumption, changing habits and related issues were of ‘American fish chowder’, ‘Norwegian fish ball’, ‘
discussed by Counihan and Van Esterik {2008] [11] in the English boarding house hash’, ‘Kashmiri mixed pie’ and ‘
work of Food and Culture [As mentioned by Tasin S. Bengali rasogolla’.
Zaman in Food, Identity and Symbolic Metaphors in the First recognized Bengali restaurant was established in
Bengali South Asian Community]. The exploration of Calcutta in 1960 with the initiative of a cooperative of
relationship between consumer and consumption with women. Then gradually famous restaurants like ‘Oh
respect to ‘taste’ is analyzed by Morton [2004] [12] [As Calcatta’, ‘Aheli’, ‘and Mainland China ’, ‘Bhajahari
mentioned by Tasin S. Zaman in Food, Identity and manna’, ‘Kasturi’ and so on became brand name of Bengali
Symbolic Metaphors in the Bengali South Asian food culture. Tea, coffee and snacks related food stuffs are
Community] in the work of Cultures of taste. Pierre inexorably linked with College Street ‘Coffee house’. This
Bourdieu [As mentioned by Tasin S. Zaman in Food, is not only an eating place but a platform of cultural
Identity and Symbolic Metaphors in the Bengali South emergence. The popular culture of coffee house takes a new
Asian Community] defines the significance of ‘taste’ as turn with the famous food chains like KFC, CCD,
acquired behaviour in the production and maintenance of BARISTA and similar places. Bengali became habituated
social class. with the café culture with several popular coffee shops in
South as well as traditional North Kolkata. Bengali food
Methodology culture is inseparably linked with Chinese food since the
The study is mainly based on primary data for the opinion of colonial period with extensive significance of ‘china town’.
food lovers. 100 people of different age group are selected The discussion on contemporary Bengali food will be
as samples of this study. Purposive sampling method is incomplete without mentioning the existence of provincial
applied here. Samples are selected on the basis of their food. The provision of South and North Indian dishes is
knowledge about current trend of Bengali food. They are connected to the heart of Bengali food lovers. Cultural
fully aware of regional, national and global food. Data are globalization gives the access of global food like Italian
collected on the basis of the interview method. The dishes, continental menu and highly popular English dishes
respondents are residents of Kolkata. Secondary sources are specially English breakfast. Bengali food delicacy
used for the analytical purpose. The objectives of the study incorporates the cultural specificity in street food also.
is 1] to describe different trends in modern Bengali food Health conscious Bengali consumers are also fond of mouth
culture with respect to socio – cultural context and 2] to watering dishes in the category of fast food.
explore relevant factors of Bengali food culture with the
emergent focus in relation to cultural globalization. Analysis Relevant factors of Bengali food culture
of data is done with tabular representations here. To some researchers food is to some extent allied to leisure.
The reflection can be seen in the works of Joanne
Bengali food culture with respect to socio-cultural Finkelstrin [As mentioned by Tasin S. Zaman in Food,
context Identity and Symbolic Metaphors in the Bengali South
An older version of restaurant was developed in presidency Asian Community]. She discussed the importance of food as
towns like Calcutta, Madras and Bombay during colonial a form of entertainment and a pursuit of pleasure in her
period particularly in the later half of 19th Century. On the essay ‘Rich Food: McDonald’s and Modern Life’. Even
basis of socio- cultural fact, it can be revealed that this time though, it should be kept in mind that developed countries
period was parallel to the premature form of can enjoy the opulence of food owing to their economic
industrialization. Consequently a new class of workers was proficiency. On the contrary, developing countries like India
related with this emergence. They had to commute long are correlated with subsistence level in terms of food. Thus
distance for earning livelihood. With their changed version economy and food can be related to each other as socio –
of lifestyle, their dependency was on external source of food cultural attributes.
like hotels, restaurants and so on. A clear categorization was Now it is accepted that Bengali food culture has undergone
indicated in the list of accessible food. One set was included thorough transformation due to several factors. The most
snacks with western influence like cutlets, chops, cakes and significant trend is the spell of ‘eating out’. Bengali home
so on. Other set integrated north Indian food like samosas, made food gradually becomes old fashioned and obsolete.
parathas, puris and similar items. These two components of Today people love to go here and there for family eating

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also. Even small occasions are arranged in eating place by items are available in the market. People can select their
prior booking of tables. Increasing importance of fast food favourite one from this wide range of food products. Factor
becomes regular part of diet of mainly Bengali youth. Roll, of advertisement is mostly essential for the products of
Chowmin, Pizza, Pasta are getting immense popularity supermarket and the menu of restaurants. Companies related
among them. Continental food and traditional Indian dishes to this sector are highly interested to get the target consumer
are fighting neck to neck to take major share in the plate of like any other product. According to Grunert there are six
Bengali food lovers. The situation has culminated with distinguished seller controlled types of marketing ---
widespread focus of global consumerism. Each and every advertising, labels, in – store communication (displays,
individual is now treated as consumer. In the aspect of food posters and others), publicity in mass media and sponsoring.
items this tendency is highly prevalent now. Various food

Tabular representation of data on preference of food on the basis of age

Food Age Home made cuisine Street food total
18- 25 5% 9% 6% 20%
25- 35 9% 7% 4% 20%
35- 45 12% 7% 1% 20%
45- 60 14% 5% 1% 20%
60 & Above 15% 5% 0% 20%
Total 55% 33% 12% 100%

Above data showed till now preference is centred on home made food.

The concept of self-awareness about food related matter has to dietitians for keeping themselves attractive.
taken more importance now. Previously people eat whatever If an analysis is made on nature of Bengali food, then it will
they like to eat. Today they become health conscious, so be highly prominent that despite of immense diversity they
they apply their knowledge of calorie measurement in are interested in all kinds of food from each and every
selecting food items. This is also true that especially young corner of the world. Indians have borrowed heavily,
girls are very much anxious about beauty. Hence they are unashamedly and openly from virtually every corner of the
too much figure conscious. This attitude has direct relevance globe [Nandy: 2004] [8]. This fact is also true for Bengali
as well as connection in selecting food item for them. trend of cooking. Bengali food as a whole is heterogeneous
Indirect reflection of this attitude has been culminated by and exogenous on one hand; again these are prototypically
the emerging trend of new subculture. The focus is given to authentic in their orientation on the other. The reason of this
beauty oriented representation, not on proper nutrition in uniqueness lies in the style of intermingling of cooking
most of the cases. ‘Slim- trim’ look is the key demand of objects in specific Bengali way.
upcoming new generation. Gym going group are also going

Tabular representation of data on preference of food on the basis of age and geographical location
Food Age Bengali food Indian food International food Total
18- 25 5% 4% 11% 20%
25- 35 7% 4% 9% 20%
35- 45 9% 6% 5% 20%
45- 60 9% 6% 5% 20%
60& Above 12% 6% 2% 20%
Total 42% 26% 32% 100%

Above data showed that still there is a preference towards Bengali food.

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Tabular representation of data on preference of food on the basis of age and geographical location

Growth of fast food market is related with processes of in this connection. Eating together is a sign of equality. So
industrialization and urbanization. Urban life style can be there should be conscious attempt to select eating partners.
viewed as an impetus for changing the value structure of Left-over food on one’s plate is tabooed to eat for all but
Bengali food network. Dispersion from homemade food and leavings from the plate of one’s father or husband is treated
inclination towards eating out frame of mind are as holy for eating. The concept of pollution is not static; in
consequence of urban mentality undoubtedly. These two some situation this can be removable. Certain agents of
processes jointly contribute to the shrinking of time for purification like fire, sun and Ganges water are available.
cooking. Hence packed food and tined item can easily take Mandelbaum [1972] [6] pointed out that living cow related
place in the list of Bengali food item. Serious changes in the products are most commonly used for this purpose. Cow
food structure in Bengali are linked with family factor also. dung, mixed with water, is applied as general means for
‘The older models of socialization are becoming recessive ritual cleansing. Interestingly it is observed that kaccha food
in urban, middle class India and preparation of food is [raw material like vegetable, fruit in holistic form] can be
becoming less of a matter of apprenticeship at home or accepted from anyone and everyone. On the contrary, in
daughters, daughters in law and younger women in the case of pakka food [Cooked food] the situation is different.
family and more a matter of cultivated taste and de- Cooked food can be accepted from a selected few on the
gendered expertise for many.’’ [Nandy: 2004] [8] The basis of caste and ritual identity. It can be said that in the
transition from joint to nuclear family is an important cause situation of accepting food and drinking water, there are still
of change in food habits of the Bengali. Entry of women in certain ritual complications in village India. Urban India is
the workplace has been regarded as the sole cause of trying heart and soul to eradicate these kinds of restrictions.
emerging new food pattern in Bengali culture. Urbanites are successful to some extent in their attempts to
Now there is no one particular kind of Bengali food for the do so.
new age people of Bengal. There is a clear demarcation line There is a clear distinction between everyday food and
between East Bengali food and West Bengali food. Cooking ceremonial food in Bengali culture. Ceremonial food is
preparation has undergone several transformations since the normally related to social occasions. Initially ceremonial
period of partition of Bengal. The essence of change is food was truly Bengali in essence as well as in content but
centered on the unique blending of recipes of East and West now fusion food takes the share of Bengali dish. In modern
Bengal. In the context of differentiating East and West fast life food pattern has taken a completely new turn with
Bengali food, it can be said that food from West Bengal is ‘ready to cook and easy to eat’ policy. Thus entry of fast
sweetish; from the East, robust, spicy and full of flavour. food revolutionizes entire territory of food. People are
New age advertisements focus on not nutrition but habituated with fast food (knowing evil effects) due to quick
distraction regarding food materials. The example can be lifestyle.
given by an advertisement of chocolate showing attractive Street food is an emblematic feature of Kolkata culture.
young smiling girls with ‘thori si petpuja’ [A beat tummy According to Bhashkar Mukhapadhyay, ‘the marginalized
worshiping]. There are four categories of food related elements are reconfigured in a new category of anti-food-
programmes like traditional domestic instructional cooking, street food – consumed by marginal sections of the
personality driven domestic cooking shows, food travel population. Anybody familiar with Calcutta’s street culture
programmes and avant garde (This is a new genre of would know the inevitability with which street food venders
innovative food media). Most of the programmes focus crop up in every nook and corner in defiance of municipal
primarily on fantasy material. Vibrant colours as well as law, petit bourgeois prejudices and the unanimous
attractive décor of kitchen become centers of attention to the disapproval of parents, police and pedagogues.’ Despite of
audiences. negative attitudes of schools and guardians about the street
Indian society imposes certain rules and regulations food, people are hypnotized by the attraction of the food of
regarding the acts of eating and drinking. Food and water this genre. Frequently people are involved in the
are susceptible to the ritual of purity and pollution. The rules unauthorized transaction of mouthwatering dishes like
involve the matters like from whom he will take food and fuchka, alukabli, churan, pickles and so on. The range of
with whom he will eat. These two facts are related to the street food is remarkably broad with jhalmuri, bhelpuri,
status of caste of the individual. Kitchen is a sensitive area telebhaja and even desi ice cream. Huge repertoire of street

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food is actually the consequence of assimilation of food c2004.

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[13]
[As mentioned by Appadurai A. in How to Make a
National Cuisine: Cookbooks in Contemporary India]
The image of Bengali food is linked with fish and rice
principally. Sweets are also known as delicacy of Bengali
culture. Each culture has its own specificity in eating habits
like Bengal. Sociologically it can be said that the
differentiation in tastes and habits of taking food are closely
linked with cultural diversity. In contemporary world of
increasing globalization of culture, food habits turn to be
Trans -national identity. In Bengal the co-existence of
global as well as indigenous food becomes the new stand.
Thus focus area of the study can be related with sociology
of food, sociology of culture with proper emphasis broadly
on sociology of life style.

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