Ladybug

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© Colorful dreams All Rights reserved.

Sale, change and publication of this pattern (incl. translation into other languages) are prohibited.
Sale of the finished toys online and offline is permitted.
Size of the The ladybug is 15 cm if using the listed materials. You can make a big
ladybug, in the form of a big toy. To do this, use a thick yarn and a suitable crochet
hook.
The head and limbs are attached to the body with the cotter pins, which allows you to
turn the body parts in different directions. Also you can use thread to attach the arms
and legs. It all depends on your ability and desire.

As you know, we all


crochet in different ways,
some very tightly, others
more loosely. We use
different threads, hooks,
and thread. Therefore, the
toys crocheted according to
one description may look a
little different: some are
fluffy, others are "smooth",
and some are large or small.
You can choose the yarn,
the size you like and the
color to your taste. I would
be very glad to see your
finished work.

When crocheting dolls I always use a smaller hook than is suggested on the yarn band. For example,
if it is recommended to use a 3 mm hook I use a 1.5 mm hook. It keeps the stitches tight and prevents
the stuffing from showing through holes in the fabric. The doll will also be more accurate.
1. All details are crocheted in spiral rounds. This means that the round will NOT be finished with a slst.
2. Use a stitch marker. A small thread (other colour then your working yarn) helps you counting the
rounds. Just place it at the start of a round on top of your working thread.

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We’ll need the following: Abbreviations:
✓ Gray yarn 35 gr. Boheme Velvet fine: 50 gr/ 190 m. White sc – single crochet
yarn 20 gr. Boheme Velvet fine: 50 gr/ 190 m.
ch – chain
Red yarn 20 gr. Boheme Velvet fine: 50 gr/ 190 m. inc – increase, crochet two
Sand yarn 35 gr. Favorita Boheme Velvet fine: 50 gr/ 190 m. stitches in one
The size of the ladybug will depend on the chosen yarn. The dec – decrease, crochet two
thicker the yarn, the bigger the toy will be. stitches together
3 sc in 1 – crochet 3 sc in 1 stitch
✓ Crochet hook 2 mm
of the previous row
✓ Eyes for sewing 12 mm in diameter, stuffing, 1 needle for X dec – X-times decrease
sewing and shaping, pastel crayons for tinting, a fabric X inc – X-times increase
marker, glue, wire 12 cm( 2 mm in diameter). (---)x – repeat those in brackets Х
✓ Cotter pins with disks of suitable size. times
I have: for the arms 10 mm in diameter, for the legs 25 mm sl st – slip stitch
in diameter, to fasten the head to the body: in the body 25 4dc bobble stitch - [YO, insert
mm in diameter, in the head 35 mm in diameter. hook into specified st, pull up a
loop, YO, pull through 2 lps on
hook] 4 times, YO, pull through all
5 loops on hook.

Marker and shift stitch.


To follow the beginning of the rounds I
use a contrast thread as the marker
while crocheting the toys and dolls.
While crocheting in the spiral round, the
beginning of the row is shifted to the
right. For example, photo number 1. The
alignment of the marker is necessary so
that the proportions of the toy remain
symmetrical, the increases and
decreases remain in their place. To do
this, every 2-3 rounds (depending on
the thread and your gauge), crochet
1 more sc at the end of the round.
Please note that we do not make the
additional increases, but only move the
marker so that it runs straight. It turns
out that the first stitch of the next round
becomes the last in the crocheted
round. And the second stitch of the next
round becomes the first one for this
round. The shift stitch is not included in
the total stitch count. 3
Legs
(2 details, gray color)
Crochet 4 ch, from the 2nd loop from the hook
1. 2 sc, 5 sc in 1, further crochet along the other side
of the chain 2 sc, 1 inc (11)
2. 2 sc, 5 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc (leave last stitch unworked(17)
Mark the new beginning of the round. The last stitch
goes in the 3rd round. Shift the marker as you go
making sure it goes straight along the back of the leg.
3. 1 inc, 2 sc, (1 inc, 1 sc)х5, 2 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc (24)
4. 1 inc, 23 sc (25)
5. 7 sc, 6 dec, 6 sc (19)
6. 7 sc, 3 dec, 6 sc (16)
7. 6 sc, 4 inc, 6 sc (20)
8. 9 sc, 2 inc, 9 sc (22)
9- 11. 22 sc
In the 12th round place a marker for a cotter pin.
For the left leg:
12. 18 sc, put a marker, 4 sc
(For the right leg: 12. 4 sc, place a marker, 18 sc )
13. 22 sc
14. (3 sc, 1 dec)х4, 2 sc (18)

A wooden washer and the leg should be approx equal in size so that the leg holds and moves well. I
used a wooden washer for the leg 15 mm in diameter.
Put a metal washer on a cotter pin and then put on a wooden one.
Find the markers and insert a cotter pin with the washers in the leg. The cotter pin will stick out the
side of the leg. As it is shown in the photo.
Stuff the leg
15. (1 sc, 1 dec)х6 (12)
16. 6 dec

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Tighten the remaining stitches,
fasten off, cut the thread.
Arms
(2 pieces, gray color)
Crochet 7 ch, from the 2 loop from the hook crochet along the chain
1. 5 sc, 1 inc, further crochet along the other side of the chain 5 sc, 1 inc (14)
2- 3. 14 sc
4. for the left arm: 2 sc, 1 ch, 4 dc bobble stitch, 11 sc (14)
for the right arm: 4 sc, 1 ch, 4 dc bobble stitch, 9 sc (14)

5. 14 sc
6. 5 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec (12)

7-9. 12 sc
10. 1 dec, 10 sc (11)
11. 11 sc
In the 12th round place a marker for a cotter pin.
12. 11 sc (11)
13. 11 sc
Stuff the arm
The width of the arm and a wooden washer should be approx. equal so that the arm can hold and
move well. I have a wooden washer for the arm 10 mm in diameter.
Put a metal washer on a cotter pin, then put on a wooden one.
Find the markers and insert a cotter pin with washers in the arm. The cotter pin will stick out the
side of the arm.
14. 1 sc, 5 dec
Tighten the remaining stitches, fasten off,
cut the thread.

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Body
(gray color)
Follow a marker by yourself, it goes along the center of the back
6 sc in the magic ring
1. 6 inc (12)
2. (1 sc, inc)х6 (18)
3. (2 sc, inc)х6 (24)
4. (3 sc, inc)х6 (30)
5. (4 sc, inc)х6 (36)
6. (5 sc, inc)х6 (42)
7. (6 sc, inc)х6 (48)
8. (7 sc, inc)х6 (54)
9. 14 sc, place a marker for the leg, 26 sc, place a marker for the leg, 14 sc
10- 16. 54 sc
17. (7 sc, 1 dec)х6 (48)
18. (6 sc, 1 dec)х6 (42)
Find a marker for the leg. Insert a cotter pin in the body, put a wooden washer on it inside the body,
then put on a metal one, bend a cotter pin and tighten strongly with the pliers. Do the same with
the second leg. A wooden washer for the leg is also 15 mm in diameter.

19. (5 sc, 1 dec)х6 (36)


20. 36 sc
21. (4 sc, 1 dec)х6 (30)
22. 8 sc, put a marker, 14 sc, put a marker, 8 sc (30)
23. 30 sc
24. (3 sc, 1 dec)х6 (24)

Find a marker for the arm.


Insert a cotter pin in the
body, put a wooden
washer on it, then put on a
metal one, bend the cotter
pin and tighten well

6 with the pliers.


Do the same
Body
with the second arm. A wooden washer for the arms is also 10 mm in diameter. Be sure the right
and left arms are installed on the correct side. After the legs are fastened, stuff the body.
Place a cotter pin fastening for the body and head.
Put a metal washer on a cotter pin, then a wooden one. A cotter pin goes outside as it is shown
in the photo below. A wooden washer in the body for the head is 25 mm in diameter.

25. (2 sc, 1 dec)х 6 (18)


26. (1 sc, 1 dec)х 6 (12)
27. 6 dec.
Tighten the remaining stitches, fasten off, cut the thread.

Also, you can use thread to attach the arms and legs.
Sew the arms between round 21 and 22. Sew the legs between round 9 and 10.

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Head
(sand or beige color)
1. 6 sc in the magic ring
2. 6 inc (12)
3. (1 sc, 1 inc)х6 (18)
4. (2 sc, 1 inc)x6 (24)
5. (3 sc, 1 inc)x6 (30)
6. (4 sc, 1 inc)x6 (36)
7. (5 sc, 1 inc)x6 (42)
8. (6 sc, 1 inc)x6 (48)
9. (7 sc, 1 inc)x6 (54)
10. (8 sc, 1 inc)x6 (60)
11. (9 sc, 1 inc)x6 (66)
Shift the marker as you go making sure, it goes along the center of the back part of the head. Take into
account the shift stitches.
12. 16 sc, (1 inc, 1 sc)х5, 1 sc, place marker 1, 12 sc, place marker 2, 1 sc (1 sc, 1 inc)х5, 16 sc
(76)
13- 19. 76 sc
20. 16 sc, 8 dec, 1 sc, place marker 3, 10 sc, place marker 4, 1 sc, 8 dec, 16 sc (60)
21- 26. 60 sc
27. (8 sc, 1 dec)х 6 (54)
28. (7 sc, 1 dec)х 6 (48)
29. (6 sc, 1 dec)х 6 (42)
30. (5 sc, 1 dec)х 6 (36)
31. (4 sc, 1 dec)х 6 (30)
Insert a cotter pin in the middle of the head, put a wooden washer on it, then a metal one, bend
a cotter pin and tighten well with the pliers. A wooden washer for fastening the head is 35 mm in
diameter.

8 32. (3 sc, 1 dec)х 6 (24) Stuff the head.


33. 24 sc
Head
Do not close the head, move on to the smile and shaping of the eyes.
Find the markers for the tightening of the eyes and smile in the 12th and 20th rounds. Insert the needle in
the 12th round (marker 1) and come out in the 20th round (marker 3). Count out 3 stitches to the right,
insert the needle and go back into the 12th round to the 1st marker, but similarly stepping 1 stitch to the
right. Do not tighten the thread right away. Repeat the same for the second eye. Insert the needle in the
12the round (marker 2) and come out in the 20th round (marker 4). Step 3 stitches to the left and then go
back to the 2nd marker, but similarly stepping 1 stitch to the left. Tighten the threads, make the knots,
weave in the ends. The creates the hollows for the eyes and the corners of the smile.

The indents made of cotton look the same. To get a nice cheek, you have to stuff it well.

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Head
Now add the eyes. I used sewing eyes. Be sure to sew the
eyes securely. For the safety eyes:
Using the round above where the eye indents were shaped,
insert the safety eyes and carefully fasten them moving aside
the stuffing inside the head.
Crochet 2 more rounds.

34. (2 sc, 1 dec)х 6 (18)


35. (1 sc, 1 dec)х 6 (12)
While the head is not closed, embroider the nose and eyebrows.
Later I decided to darken around the eyes.

EMBROIDER THE EYELIDS


Insert the needle from above the head and come out at the edge of one of
the eyes, insert the needle in the other edge of the eye and come out back in
the upper part of the head. For the eyebrows make a couple of stitches.

Begin embroidering the nose. To


do this, take a thread of a gray
color, move 1 round down from
the indents of the eyes ( 18-19
rounds) . Find the middle and
begin making the stitches. To
keep the nose small, we only

10 use 3 stitches.
Head
Weave all the threads inside the head and complete the last
row of the head. 36. 6 dec
Tighten the stitches, cut the thread and weave in the end.

CAP (Gray)
1. 6 sc in the magic ring
2. 6 inc (12)
3. (1 sc, 1 inc)х6 (18)
4. (2 sc, 1 inc)x6 (24)
5. (3 sc, 1 inc)x6 (30)
6. (4 sc, 1 inc)x6 (36)
7. (5 sc, 1 inc)x6 (42)
8. (6 sc, 1 inc)x6 (48)
9. (7 sc, 1 inc)x6 (54)
10. (8 sc, 1 inc)x6 (60)
11. (9 sc, 1 inc)x6 (66)
12- 13. 66 sc
14. (10 sc, 1 inc)x6 (72)
15- 21. 72 sc
22. 33 sc, 1 half treble crochet, 1 dc, 1 double treble crochet, 1 triple treble crochet, 1 double treble
crochet, 1 dc, 1 half treble crochet, 32 sc
Fasten off, leave a thread long enough for sewing.

Put the hat on and sew it onto your head.


To tint the cheeks I use the pink dry crayons.
Draw with a crayon on the paper, then gather the resulting grains with a brush and apply on the toy
in the necessary places.
Tint the corners of the smile with a waterproof fabric marker.
Also, freckles can be drawn randomly with a fabric marker.

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Head
Antenna (gray color)
1. 6 sc in the magic ring
2. (1 sc, 1 inc)х3 (9)
3. 9 sc
4. (1 sc, 1 dec)х3 (6)
Fasten off and leave a long thread. Divide the wire into two halves, each 6 cm/2.5 in. Coat one end with glue
and insert it into the ball. Take the thread and wrap it around the wire, while using clear glue as you wrap
down the wire to glue the thread in place. Twist the wire and be sure to wrap the thread very close together.
Leave 2cm/.75 in of the wire free without thread. After drying, insert it into the head and sew it on.

Wings
(2 pc. Red color) 21. 21 sc, 1 dec, 20 sc (42)
1. 6 sc in the magic ring 22. 15 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc, 1 dec, 15 sc (40)
2. 6 inc (12) 23. 14 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc, 1 dec, 14 sc (38)
3. (1 sc, 1 inc)х6 (18) 24. 14 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc, 1 dec, 14 sc (36)
4. (2 sc, 1 inc)x6 (24) 25. 12 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc, 1 dec, 12 sc (34)
5. (3 sc, 1 inc)x6 (30) 26. 12 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc, 1 dec, 12 sc (32)
6. (4 sc, 1 inc)x6 (36) 27. 11 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc, 1 dec, 11 sc (30)
7. (5 sc, 1 inc)x6 (42) 28. 10 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc, 1 dec, 10 sc (28)
Shift the marker as you go making sure it goes 29. 9 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc, 1 dec, 9 sc (26)
straight along the side. Take into account the 30. 11 sc, 3 sc togheter, 12 sc (24)
shift stitches. 31. (3 sc, 1 dec)x 4, 4 sc (20)
8- 10. 42 sc Fasten off, leave a thread long enough for
11. 21 sc, 1 inc, 20 sc (43) sewing. Do not stuff.
12. 43 sc
13. 21 sc, 1 inc, 21 sc (44)
14. 44 sc
15. 21 sc, 1 inc, 22 sc (45)
16- 17. 45 sc
18. 21 sc, 1 dec, 22 sc (44)

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19. 44 sc
20. 21 sc, 1 dec, 21 sc (43)
Wings
2 pc. White color 16. 18 sc, 1 dec, 18 sc (37)
1. 6 sc in the magic ring 17. 37 sc
2. 6 inc (12) 18. 18 sc, 1 dec, 17 sc (36)
3. (1 sc, 1 inc)х6 (18) 19. 13 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc, 1 dec, 13 sc (34)
4. (2 sc, 1 inc)x6 (24) 20. 12 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc, 1 dec, 12 sc (32)
5. (3 sc, 1 inc)x6 (30) 21. 11 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc, 1 dec, 11 sc (30)
6. (4 sc, 1 inc)x6 (36) 22. 11 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc, 1 dec,
Shift the marker as you go making sure it 11 sc (28)
goes straight along the side. Take into 23. 10 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc, 1 dec,
account the shift stitches. 10 sc (26)
7-
7. 9. 36 sc 24. (3 sc, 1 dec)x 5, 1 sc (21)
10. 18 sc, 1 inc, 17 sc (37) Do not stuff, fasten off.
11. 37 sc
12. 18 sc, 1 inc, 18 sc (38)
13. 38 sc
14- 15. 38 sc

Place the wings together and sew them together. Sew them onto the back. I embroidered the spots
and then painted a dark gray on the edge. The spots can also be crocheted. Crochet 6 sc in a magic
ring, close the ring and sew on.

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Assembly
In the end, I also decided to add stripes to the belly. I started with the stripes at the bottom of the
belly and crocheted to the very top. All the stripes are crocheted directly onto the belly. To do
this, insert the hook between the rounds and surface crochet across the round. If you wish, you
can embroider the stripes or leave them out completely.

If you have any questions, please, contact me:


My e-mail:
[email protected]
Have fun crocheting!

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