Bedtime Lilly

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Materials:
• Wool (Sport weight), e. g. Cotton, for me:
✴ for the sleepwear: Schachenmayr Catania solids/Scheepjes Catona Fb. 401
and some off-white or creme
✴ for the slippers: some off-white, creme or white (Catania/Catona) and some
fluffy yarn with similar gauge (you can also use the cotton yarn and brush
with a tough brush until it’s fluffy
✴ for the bed: Schachenmayr Catania/Catona: 2x 50 g Fb. 258, 50 g Fb. 105,
Catania/Catona: 50 g Fb. 518
✴ for pillow and blanket: Catania/Catona 50 g Fb. 238
✴ some pink yarn for the bunny noses
• Crochet hook in suitable size, for me: 2.0 mm and 3.5 mm
• Some stuffing (for the pillow and if necessary for the mattress)
• 4 little eyes for the bunny slippers (for me: 4 mm) - alternatively you can
embroider the eyes with some black thread without any problems
• solid cardboard
• maybe some foam material for the mattress - but it is also possible to fill the
mattress with stuffing
• 3 little buttons, about 1 cm diameter

Abbreviations (US Terms):

MR = magic ring
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
ch = chain
st = stitch
slst = slip stitch
inc = increase
dec = decrease
BLO = back loop only
FLO = front loop only
rev sc = reverse single crochet

First published: 24. Mai 2017

The specifications of the wool and needle
sizes are only examples/references. If You
use other wool than specified, the figure will
become taller or smaller. It’s Your choice
which wool you use. The needle size must
be chosen to match the wool used. When
crocheting Amigurumis You should use a
much smaller needle size than indicated on
the banderole or You would use it for other
crochet projects so that no holes are made
when the piece is stuffed. With a needle size
of 2 mm, my gauge sample results in a
diameter of 4.5 cm for six crocheted rounds.

When crocheting clothes (this also applies to

furniture in this case), always try them on
the doll, because different yarn, hook size
and tension may alter the final product.
Adjust if necessary.

The basic pattern for Lilly is here: https://www.zhaya.de/index.php/other-languages/

pattern-english.

The teddy bear shown at the pictures is part of the "Night owl" pattern (https://
zhaya.de/other-languages/pattern-english), it is crocheted suitable for Lilly with a
thinner thread than the one given in the pattern, in fact ICE Yarns Thin Chenille
(fingering weight) with a needle size of 1.75 mm.

Fine, let’s start crocheting :o)

Sleepwear:
color of choice, hook size for me: 3.5 mm
As a reminder: crochet in rows, don’t forget at the end of each row chain 1 and
turn :o)
1. ch 19, starting in second chain from hook: sc 18 (18)
2. (sc 2, inc) x6, ch 1, turn (24)
3. (sc 3, inc) x6, ch 1, turn (30)
4. (sc 4, inc) x6, ch 1, turn (36)
5. (sc 5, inc) x6, ch 1, turn (42)
6. (sc 6, inc) x6, ch 1, turn (48)
7. (sc 7, inc) x6, ch 1, turn (54)
8. sc 7, skip 12 stitches (for the armholes), sc 15, skip 12 stitches, sc 8, ch 1,
turn (30) <— Leave the stitches for the armholes unworked for now.
9.-15. (7 Rows) sc in each st around, do NOT turn (30)
Crochet a slipstitch into the first stitch to get a round, crochet from here in rounds
(closed rounds or spirals - your choice.
16. (4sc, inc) x6 (36)
17.-18. (2 Rounds) sc in each st around (36)
19. stitch through 1st and 18th stitch and sc 1, sc 16, sc 1 in the last stitch, on this
side only through this stitch (18)
20.-29. (10 Round) sc in each st around (18)

First published: 24. Mai 2017

30. (4 sc, dec) x3 (15)
Fasten off invisibly.
For the second trouser leg join to round 19 again and crochet this trouser leg the
same way.
Join with a slipstitch or a standing single crochet to the lower side of an armhole.
• inc, sc 10, inc
• (7 Rounds) sc in each st around (14)
Fasten off invisibly.
Work the second sleeve the same way.
Join with a contrasting color (e. g. off-white) with a slipstitch to a sleeve, crochet
(ch 1, slst 1) until you reach the end of the round, finish with a chain and fasten off
invisibly. Repeat this for the second sleeve and for both trouser legs.
Join with a slipstitch to the right side of the collar (if you look at it from the front, it’s
the left side), crochet again (ch 1, slst 1) around the collar, rotate 90 degrees: work
sc 1 per row, make a slipstitch into the V-like point at the bottom, sc 1 per row at
the other side, slipstitch into the first stitch of the collar, turn.
Ch 1, skip the slip stitch, sc 1, (maybe adjust the size of the following buttonholes to
fit your buttons) *ch 1-2, skip 1-2 stitches, sc 2-3* (you may adjust it too). Repeat
this to make 2 more buttonholes (if you’re using bigger buttons you just need 2
buttonholes), end up with a slipstitch, turn.
ch 1, skip the slipstitch, crochet (slst 1, ch 1) until the
end of the row, finish with a slipstitch into the last
single crochet.
Fasten off invisibly.
Attach the buttons.

Bunny slippers sole (make 2):

white or off-white, hook size 2.0 mm
Crochet in spirals, make an oval (see image).
1. ch 6, start from 2nd from hook: inc, sc 3, sc 4 in
the last stitch, rotate 180 degrees and crochet
along the opposite side of the foundation chain: sc
3, sc 2 in the last stitch (14)
2. sc 1, inc, sc 3, inc x4, sc 3, inc, sc 1 (20)
3. sc 1, inc, sc 4, inc x2, sc 4, inc x2, sc 4, inc, sc 1 (26)
4. slst in each st (26)
Fasten off invisibly.

Bunny slippers upper part:

fluffy yarn white or off-white, hook size 2.0 mm
Start crocheting in spirals, make an oval again.
1. ch 6, start from 2nd from hook: sc 2, sc 3, sc 4 in the last stitch, rotate 180
degrees and crochet along the opposite side of the foundation chain: sc 3, sc 2 in
the last stitch (14)
2. sc 1, inc, sc 3, inc x4, sc 3, inc, sc 1 (20)
3. sc 1, inc, sc 4, inc x2, sc 4, inc x2, sc 4, inc, sc 1 (26) <— you may have to
move the round marker to the rear part of the sole (the smaller part)
4. slst 6, BLO: slst 1, sc 1 in the same stitch, sc 13, turn (14) <— don’t work the
other stitches of this round, crochet in rows now, at the end of each row ,
chain 1 and turn.

First published: 24. Mai 2017

5.-7. (3 Rows) sc in each st around, ch1, turn (14)
8. sc 1, (skip 1 stitch, sc 1) x6, sc 1, ch 1, turn (8)
9. (skip 1 stitch, sc 1) x4, ch 1, turn (4)
10. (skip 1 stitch, sc 1) x2, ch 1, turn (2)
11. Crochet along the side sc 5-6, sc 1 in the corner (between upper part and sole),
slst 12 along the sole, sc 1 in the corner, sc 5-6 along the other side from the
upper part, slst into the first sc
Fasten off invisibly.
Brush the outside (brush much more if you don’t use fluffy yarn) to make the slippers
really fluffy.
Put the upper part of the Slipper onto the sole (slipstitches points down), with the
same color or a contrasting color sew it together stitch for stitch, go through both
loops for the Sole and for the front part only stitch through the loops lying next to
each other.

Ear (make 4):

Same wool as the upper part, hook size 2.0 mm
Make an oval again.
1. ch 5, start from 2nd from hook: sc 3, hdc 5 in the last stitch, rotate 180 degrees
and crochet along the opposite side of the foundation chain: sc 3, slst in the first
sc.
Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing.
Sew the ears to the slippers, attach the eyes or embroider them with black yarn and
the nose with pink yarn.

First published: 24. Mai 2017

For the bed I have given stitch and row/lap numbers, but these are only examples.
Other wool and needle size also changes the size, but in this case it is mainly
depending on the cardboard sizes used, how much has to be crocheted. However, it
is very easy to adjust the size, as only more stitches and rows have to be added,
most pieces are crocheted without increases or decreases, so just keep crocheting or
stop earlier.

First you have to cut the cardboard to the required size. If you don't have a very
stable cardboard, you can help yourself simply by double-using the cardboard and
gluing the layers together with glue. This gives good stability. Or use some plastics
(e. g. of packaging).

To find out the size of the bed surface, put Lilly on the cardboard. It can be a bit
short, because of the wool on each side. Of course, it doesn't have to be so short.
Also needed is a headboard and footplate, a bit wider than the bed surface, the
headboard has been made higher than the footplate (the footplate is only about ⅔ as
high as the headboard. Also two equal side parts. The side parts are quite low in
height and as wide as the bed surface is long (see pictures).

I’ve started with the headboard (but you

can start with each other part too - it
doesn't matter). I’ve been using hook
size 2.0 mm for all the bed parts. You
can use each wool, hook size and color
you like.

Ch 28, from 2nd from hook: sc 27. The

foundation chain must be slightly longer
than the width of the cardboard. After
3-4 rows, check the width again, when
crocheting, the stitches still shrink a
little bit, so it is better to check more
often at the beginning, so that it is not
too narrow at the end. Even later, it
should be a little bit overhanging on the
left and right side of the crochet piece
so that it can still be inserted into the stitches on the side for joining later. Now just
crochet so many rows (not forgetting the chain at the beginning of each row to
bridge the height) until the whole cardboard surface is covered and also sticks out a
little bit above and below. For me it was after 40 rows.

Fasten off invisibly the first (inner) part (for me: the lighter color). Do not fasten off
the second (outer) part (in my case the darker color). Put both parts exactly on top of
each other, the inner part points to me, now go through the first stitch and pull the
active loop through. Now crochet around with single crochets, only on the ground I
made slip stitches. Insert the hook always into both parts, make 3 stitches into each
corner. When 2 or 3 sides are closed, insert the cardboard. Close the round with a
slipstitch into the first sc. You can make reverse single crochets along the top edge.

First published: 24. Mai 2017

The footplate is worked the same way, but I had already reached the desired height
after 26 rows. For this I needed two parts as well, I used the lighter one inside and
the darker one outside. Of course the colour design is completely up to you, you can
of course use only one colour or many more colours. :o)

I have crocheted the bed surface and side parts in the

darker colour, it doesn't matter which color you are
using, because the bed surface is almost invisible. I
have crocheted the fabric for the bed surface in one
piece, so that it is enough for the cardboard (in my
case ch 54 and 50 rows with sc 53 each were
necessary). This time I didn't crochet the ends
together, but sewed them together. Put the fabric
around the cardboard and sew the first and the last
row stitch by stitch together. The seam runs along
the middle of the underside. Last sew the sides
together (see the left picture).

Now you just need the side parts of the bed

frame. I crocheted it with the darker color in
such a way that the rows run in one direction
from bottom to top at the sides of the bed. I
have crocheted only one piece for the side
pieces as well, so it fits around the cardboard
(for me: ch 54 and 13 rows with sc 53 each).
For these pieces I only crocheted the long side
together (see picture on the right). The two short
sides do not need to be closed, they close
automatically when the bed frame is sewn
together. However, they can also be sewn up
with a few stitches.

Now all parts of the bed frame are finished and it's time to assemble. To do this, I
first combined the side parts and the bed surface. The crocheted side of the side
panels point downwards and are sewn together with the long sides of the bed
surface. Once this has been done on both sides, only the bed surface with headrest
and footrest have to be connected. The best way to do this is to put the parts
together with pins first, so that you can find a good height for sewing together, put
Lilly next to it and see how it fits best. On the picture below on the right the bed
surface is still missing, but this is first sewn together with the side parts as described
(see left picture below).
First published: 24. Mai 2017
Next, I crocheted the mattress. I cut out a piece of foam material (e. g. from an old
chair cushion) in the
size of the bed
surface. While
crocheting later on,
try more often to find
out whether the
mattress with the
crochet fabric around
fits into the bed frame.
If necessary cut off a piece of foam material to
make it fit. Alternatively, you can also use a small
polystyrene plate. But you can also simply crochet
the cover of the mattress and stuff and shape it
nicely (see suggestion later, but I haven't tested it).

I started the mattress with off-white, after 6 rows each I have crocheted 2 rows with
a contrasting color. First you have to
find out the length of the foundation
chain, crochet chains and put it
around the foam, for me it was ch 55
and 62 rows with sc 54 each. Is the
fabric large enough, place it around
the foam and then close stitch by
stitch, I've moved the seam in the
middle. The seam does not have to be
nice because it is not visible when the
mattress is lying in bed.

Now two side parts are still needed. I

didn't connect it by crocheting,
because the mattress gets even more shape when you sew it on later. For the width
look at the opening, I needed ch 21 and 7 rows of sc 20 each. The best way is to
mark the number of stitches at the top and bottom (these are the corners later),
which makes it easier to sew on. Now sew again stitch by stitch, preferably using

First published: 24. Mai 2017

the ladderstitch. On the pictures above you can see how the side of the mattress still
shapes a little.
* If you want to fill the mattress with stuffing, it will be a bit more difficult, but it
should also work. For the size you have to look at the bed surface and the height of
the side panels. In this case I would work directly in rounds, you have to look for
the number of chains, close it to round with a slipstitch in the first chain, and then
crochet a tube in spiral or circular loops. Make 2 side panels as shown above. Then
sew on one side panel, stuff and shape mattress and finally sew on the other side
panel. As already mentioned, I have not tested this version, because it is easier to
make and more stable with foam material.

Only pillow and blanket are not crocheted yet. For both of them I used the largest
needle size indicated on the banderole so that the fabric does not become too rigid -
in my case hook size was 3.5 mm.

For the pillow I crocheted a foundation chain with powder pink in the approximate
width of the bed surface, for me it was ch 25. Crochet so many rows with e. g.
sc 24 that a square is created, but only go through the back loops in each row,
because it makes the fabric more elastic. Crochet two of these squares, fasten off
the first and do not fasten off the second. Place both parts on top of each other, the
one with the active stitch comes to the back, this stitch is on the right. Now go
through the first stitch of the front piece with your hook and pull the loop through.
Work single crochets all around, make sc 3 in each corner and loosely stuff the pillow
before finally closing it. Crochet a whole round of reverse single crochets and fasten
off invisibly.

The blanket can be crocheted in any pattern and, of course, the size of the blanket
should be adjusted to the bed. I used the following pattern:
Crochet a suitable number of ch for the foundation chain (number has to be dividable
by 3):
1. start from 3rd chain from hook: sc 1, skip 2 stitches, *(sc 1, ch 1, dc 1) in one
stitch, skip 2 stitches** repeat from * to ** and ending with sc 1 in the very last
stitch, ch 1, turn
2. *(sc 1, ch 1, dc 1) in the next chain space** (You have to take a close look to
make sure you don't miss the first chain space), repeat between * and ** ending
with sc 1 in the last stitch, ch1, turn
Repeat round 2 until the desired length is reached.
First published: 24. Mai 2017
Finally surround the blanket with sc, finish with a slst and fasten off invisibly. You
can crochet a border as you like, e. g. slst 1, ch 1 alternating, picots, shells or
similar.

Whoever has made it to this point will be rewarded with a bed for Lilly and her night
suit :o)

I hope my description has become halfway understandable.

First published: 24. Mai 2017