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Beauty Therapist

(Job Role)

Qualification Pack: Ref. Id. BWS/Q0102


Sector: Beauty and Wellness

Textbook for Class XI


ISBN 978-93-5292-150-8
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
 No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a
First Edition
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June 2019 Ashadha 1941 electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise
without the prior permission of the publisher.
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way of trade, be lent, re-sold, hired out or otherwise disposed
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cover other than that in which it is published.
PD 5T SU
 The correct price of this publication is the price printed on
this page, Any revised price indicated by a rubber stamp or
© National Council of Educational by a sticker or by any other means is incorrect and should
be unacceptable.
Research and Training, 2019
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Foreword

The National Curriculum Framework–2005 (NCF–2005)


recommends bringing work and education into the domain of
the curricular, infusing it in all areas of learning while giving it
an identity of its own at relevant stages. It explains that work
transforms knowledge into experience and generates important
personal and social values such as self-reliance, creativity and
cooperation. Through work one learns to find one’s place in the
society. It is an educational activity with an inherent potential for
inclusion. Therefore, an experience of involvement in productive
work in an educational setting will make one appreciate the worth
of social life and what is valued and appreciated in society. Work
involves interaction with material or other people (mostly both),
thus creating a deeper comprehension and increased practical
knowledge of natural substances and social relationships.
Through work and education, school knowledge can be easily
linked to learners’ life outside the school. This also makes a
departure from the legacy of bookish learning and bridges the gap
between the school, home, community and the workplace. The
NCF – 2005 also emphasises on Vocational Education and Training
(VET) for all those children who wish to acquire additional skills
and/or seek livelihood through vocational education after either
discontinuing or completing their school education. VET is expected
to provide a ‘preferred and dignified’ choice rather than a terminal
or ‘last-resort’ option.
As a follow-up of this, NCERT has attempted to infuse work
across the subject areas and also contributed in the development
of the National Skill Qualification Framework (NSQF) for the
country, which was notified on 27 December 2013. It is a quality
assurance framework that organises all qualifications according
to levels of knowledge, skills and attitude. These levels, graded
from one to ten, are defined in terms of learning outcomes, which
the learner must possess regardless of whether they are obtained
through formal, non-formal or informal learning. The NSQF sets

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common principles and guidelines for a nationally recognised
qualification system covering Schools, Vocational Education and
Training Institutions, Technical Education Institutions, Colleges
and Universities.
It is under this backdrop that Pandit Sunderlal Sharma Central
Institute of Vocational Education (PSSCIVE), Bhopal, a constituent
of NCERT has developed learning outcomes based modular
curricula for the vocational subjects from Classes IX to XII. This
has been developed under the Centrally Sponsored Scheme of
Vocationalisation of Secondary and Higher Secondary Education of
the Ministry of Human Resource Development.
This textbook has been developed as per the learning outcomes
based curriculum, keeping in view the National Occupational
Standards (NOS) for the job role and to promote experiential learning
related to the vocation. This will enable the students to acquire
necessary skills, knowledge and attitude.
I acknowledge the contribution of the development team, reviewers
and all the institutions and organisations, which have supported in
the development of this textbook.
NCERT would welcome suggestions from students, teachers and
parents, which would help us to further improve the quality of the
material in subsequent editions.

Hrushikesh Senapaty
Director
New Delhi National Council of Educational
June 2018 Research and Training

iv

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About the Textbook

The Beauty and Wellness sector is growing at a fast pace and is an


important industry in India. The reason for this exponential growth
is the rising consumerism, globalisation and changing lifestyles of
consumers. The rapid growth in the Beauty and Wellness Industry,
with the entry of many small and large companies, has led to a huge
demand for trained personnel to perform various job roles, such as
Assistant Beauty Therapist and Beauty Therapist.
A Beauty Therapist is responsible for arranging and providing
various beauty therapy services, such as manicure, pedicure,
threading, waxing, mehendi and make-up. The textbook for the job
role of a ‘Beauty Therapist’ has been developed to impart knowledge
and skills through hands-on learning experience, which forms a
part of experiential learning.
The textbook has been developed with the contributions and
expertise provided by subject and industry experts, and academicians
for making it a useful and enriching teaching–learning resource
material for students. Care has been taken to align the content of
the textbook with the National Occupation Standards (NOSs) for
the job role so that the students acquire necessary knowledge and
skills as per the performance criteria mentioned in the respective
NOSs of the Qualification Pack (QP). The textbook has been reviewed
by experts to ensure that the content is not only aligned with the
NOSs but is also of high quality. The NOSs, along with their codes
as mentioned in the Qualification Pack for the job role of a Beauty
Therapist, are as follows:
(1) BWS/N9001 : Prepare and maintain the work area
(2) BWS/N0104 : Perform skincare services
(3) BWS/N0105 : Perform depilation services
(4) BWS/N0401 : Perform manicure and pedicure services
(5) BWS/N0106 : Perform make-up services
(6) BWS/N0128 : Operate electronic equipment to provide safe
facial services
(7) BWS/N0129 : Perform salon reception duties
(8) BWS/N9002 : Maintain health and safety standards in the
work area
(9) BWS/N9003 : Create a positive impression in the work area

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Unit 1 of the textbook introduces the various career opportunities in
the Beauty and Wellness sector. It also describes various beauty therapy
services, such as manicure, pedicure, make-up, hairdo, etc., and the
importance of such treatments. General guidelines for maintaining the
work area, as well as, health and safety standards to be followed within
the sector are covered in the Unit. Unit 2 deals with skincare services. It
describes the actions of the face, neck and shoulder muscles so that the
learners can use this information while providing massage to a client.
The Unit also includes bleaching, a beauty treatment that destroys
melanin and gives a pale golden look to finer facial hair. Unit 3 deals
with manicure and pedicure services. It also covers the anatomy of the
hand, feet and nail, so that the learners get an in-depth understanding
of the kind of treatment or therapy that the client needs to be given.
Unit 4 deals with depilation services, such as waxing and threading,
wherein unwanted body hair are removed. It also deals with alternative
hair removal techniques.

Vinay Swarup Mehrotra


Professor and Head
Curriculum Development and
Evaluation Centre and NSQF Cell
PSSCIVE, Bhopal

vi

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Textbook Development Team

Members
Annu Wadhwa, CEO, Beauty and Wellness Sector Skill Council,
New Delhi
Arti Amarendra, Director, Arti Salon, Chennai, Tamil Nadu
Bharti Taneja, Founder, Alps Cosmetic Clinic, New Delhi
Gurpreet Seble, Owner, Nail Spa by Gurpreet, Mumbai, Maharashtra
Joban Mani, Director, Nail Pro, New Delhi
Maya Paranjapye, Trustee, Association of Beauty Therapy and
Cosmetology, Mumbai, Maharashtra
Pratibha Dusaj, Head, Standards and Quality Assurance, Beauty
and Wellness Sector Skill Council, New Delhi
Sangita Chauhan, President, All India Hair and Beauty Association,
New Delhi
Sohini Guha, Manager, Standards and Quality Assurance, Beauty
and Wellness Sector Skill Council, New Delhi
Vaijayanti Balachandran, Founder, Rand R. Salons YLG,
Koramangala, Bengaluru, Karnataka
Vaishali Shah, Education Head, LTA School of Beauty, Bhopal,
Madhya Pradesh
Vikram Bhatt, Director, Enrich Salon and Academy, Ahmedabad,
Gujarat

Member-coordinator
Vinay Swarup Mehrotra, Professor and Head, Curriculum
Development and Evaluation Centre and NSQF Cell, PSSCIVE,
Bhopal, Madhya Pradesh

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Acknowledgements

The Council expresses its gratitude to all members of the Project


Approval Board (PAB) and officials of the Ministry of Human
Resource Development (MHRD), Government of India, for their
cooperation in the development of learning outcome-based curricula
and courseware.
We express our gratitude to Vandana Luthra, Chairperson,
Beauty and Wellness Sector Skill Council, and Founder, VLCC,
Gurugram, Haryana, and Blossom Kochhar, President, National
Hair and Beauty Association, New Delhi, for their valuable inputs
and suggestions. The support of Rajesh Khambayat, Joint Director,
PSSCIVE, Bhopal, is highly appreciated in developing this textbook.
The contributions of our colleagues at the NCERT, and members
of the textbook review committee — Saroj Yadav, Professor and Dean
(Academic) and Chairperson; Ranjana Arora, Professor and Head,
Department of Curriculum Studies; Bharti, Associate Professor,
Department of Education in Gender and Special Needs; and
Shveta Uppal, Chief Editor, Publication Division, NCERT, are duly
acknowledged. We are also thankful to officials in the National Skill
Development Agency (NSDA), National Skill Development Corporation
(NSDC), and Ministry of Skill Development and Entrepreneurship
for their support.
The images used in the textbook have been sourced from the
Creative Commons License. They have been selected with care
and diligence for clearer understanding of learners. Care has been
taken not to violate any copyright issue. The images are meant for
educational purpose only and are being provided for the personal
use of students and teachers.
We thank the Department of Sports and Youth Welfare (Madhya
Pradesh)–VLCC Academy, Bhopal, for photographs on the book’s
cover. Sunita Koli, Computer Operator (Grade III), PSSCIVE, Bhopal,
is acknowledged for typing the manuscript.
Gratitude is also due to the Publication Division, NCERT, for
transforming the manuscript into an attractive textbook. Special
thanks are due to Sweta Jha, Editor (Contractual) for copyediting
the manuscript. Pawan Kumar Barriar, DTP Operator, Publication
Division, NCERT, Nitin Kumar Gupta, Masihuddin and Sachin
Tanwar, DTP Operators (Contractual) are thanked for flawless layout
and design.

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Contents

Foreword iii
About the Textbook v
Unit 1: Beauty and Wellness Industry, and Beauty Therapy 1
Session 1: Career Opportunities in the Beauty and Wellness Sector 3
Session 2: Beauty Therapy Services 9
Session 3: Preparing and Maintaining the Work Area 15
Session 4: Health and Safety in the Work Area 25
Unit 2: Skincare Services 44
Session 1: Anatomy and Physiology of the Skin 45
Session 2: Types of Skin and Skincare 51
Session 3: Actions of the Facial, Neck and Shoulder Muscles 65
Session 4: Bleaching 71
Unit 3: Manicure and Pedicure Services 76
Session 1: Anatomy of the Nail, Hand and Feet 77
Session 2: Manicure 85
Session 3: Pedicure 98
Unit 4: Depilation Services 105
Session 1: Waxing 107
Session 2: Threading 122
Glossary 130
Answer Key 133

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“Healthy skin is crucial for providing
the right canvas for applying make-up,
to enhance natural beauty and create
natural healthy looking skin.”

– Caroline Frazer

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Beauty and
1 Wellness Industry,
and Beauty Therapy

Introduction
The outward appearance of a person is the first
thing that catches the eye of others. Therefore, being
presentable at all times is of considerable importance.
Here, comes the role of a Beauty Therapist, who carries
out various beauty treatments on a person to improve
the overall appearance, which includes dressing-up
appropriately, putting the right make-up, skincare
and hairstyle. Besides, the therapist gives wellness
treatments, including manicure and pedicure, which
involve massage, followed by aftercare advice to clients.
Sometimes, they are also suggested a balanced diet
and nutrition, and a daily exercise regimen to maintain a
healthy lifestyle.
In this Unit, you will learn about the basic aspects of
the Beauty and Wellness Industry, career opportunities
in the sector, various beauty therapy services, preparing
and maintaining the work area, and health and safety
standards to be followed at a workplace.

Beauty and Wellness Industry in India


The Beauty and Wellness sector is growing at a fast pace
and is an important industry in India. It contributes a
lot to the country’s economic growth and is gradually
becoming a leading employer — creating millions
of employment opportunities. The reason for this
exponential growth is rising consumerism, globalisation
and changing lifestyles of Indian consumers. The rapid
growth of the Beauty and Wellness Industry, along
with the entry of many small and large companies, has
led to a huge demand for trained personnel or beauty
therapists. Though the Beauty and Wellness
Industry is new in India, there has been
an increasing awareness about health and
well-being. The industry is booming and it
is mainly due to the growing desire among
both men and women to look stylish and
feel good about themselves. Customers
visit a salon to avail beauty treatments
and therapies. Therefore, a beauty salon
has to provide a satisfied experience to its
Fig. 1.1: A customer undergoing a customers. A snapshot of beauty business
beauty therapy
in India is shown in Fig. 1.2.

THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY

`41,224 crore `80,370 crore 20–30%


Estimated size of the Projected size of the Projected compounded
Beauty and Wellness Beauty and Wellness annual growth rate in
market in India in industry in India in the organised Beauty
2012–13 2017–18 and Wellness sector

4%

`3.4 million
48% Rejuvenation

Estimated workforce
in Beauty and
SEGMENTS
OF THE 48% Slimming
and fitness
Wellness services
SECTOR Beauty and
Wellness

Fig. 1.2: A snapshot of the beauty business in India


(Source: https://www.businesstoday.in/magazine/features/vlcc-clsa-everstone-kpmg-ac-nielsen-report/
story/209609.html)

Beauty Therapist – Class XI


2

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One segment of the Beauty and Wellness Industry
that is doing particularly well is specialised hair care.
Another segment expanding rapidly is bridal make-up.
Earlier, it was, usually, only the bride who visited a
salon prior to the wedding. But these days, even the
bridegroom, friends and relatives of both the bride and
the groom go for beauty treatments and related services
in salons, which often offer special packages for this
type of clientele.
The reasons for the growth of the Beauty and
Wellness sector are as follows.
1) People are buying more beauty products.
2) People are moving to cities and spending more
money to avail beauty products and services.
3) Young people are being exposed to advertisements
through media, which increase their aspiration to
look beautiful and presentable at all times.
4) There is an obsession with younger looking skin
as more and more consumers ask for
cosmetic treatments and anti-ageing
Beauty
products. centres
5) More product innovation is being done Alternative
Hair salon
for enhancing marketability. therapy

Session 1: Career Opportunities in Product and


Major sub-
segments
counter
the Beauty and Wellness Sector
Fitness
sales

Major sub-segments in the Beauty Rejuvenation


Slimming
and Wellness sector
The Beauty and Wellness sector has several
sub-segments. The major sub-segments are
depicted in Fig. 1.3. Fig. 1.3: Major sub-segments in
the Beauty and Wellness sector
Beauty centres or salons
A beauty salon provides skin, hair, nail care and
other related therapies to improve the overall look of a
person. These services are provided as per customers’
requirements.
Hair salons
These are specialised salons, which provide services like
haircut, hairstyling, shampooing, hair colouring and
Beauty and Wellness Industry, and Beauty Therapy
3

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Notes scalp treatment. Some hairstylists even provide nail and
skincare services.

Product and counter sale


This involves counter sale of beauty products, including
cosmetics and toiletries, which address age-related
health and appearance issues of clients by a salon.

Fitness and slimming


These include service providers in the fields of physical
exercises, yoga, aerobics, other mind and body practices,
weight loss and slimming.

Rejuvenation centres
This includes the core spa industry services, such as
spa operations, spa education, spa products and events.
The sector primarily offers pro-active services aimed at
relaxing the body and mind.

Alternative therapy centres


Clinical diagnosis and treatments under alternative
therapy are provided in this segment. Alternative
therapy relates to natural healing methods, which are
different from the regular western medical treatments or
allopathic or pharmaceutical procedures. Apart from
naturopathy, this includes crystal healing, cupping and
vibration therapy.

Unisex salons
Unisex beauty salons offer Beauty and Wellness services
to both men and women. Many organised segments
are offering such services, and unisex beauty and
wellness centres are gradually gaining acceptance in
the Indian society.

International beauty brands


The growing number of customers in the Beauty and
Wellness sector has attracted a number of international
brands to the Indian market. Some of the popular
international cosmetic brands with a presence in India
are — Maybelline New York, L’Oréal Paris, MAC, etc.

Beauty Therapist – Class XI


4

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Besides, with an upsurge of online retail, Indian
consumers have an access to a wide range of beauty
and grooming products — both indigenous and
international. Some of the Indian cosmetic brands are
— Lakmé, Himalaya, VLCC, Biotique, Shahnaz Husain,
Forest Essentials, etc.

Career path for Beauty Therapist


Most Beauty Therapists start their career in beauty
centres and hair salons. However, anytime during their
career, they can shift to other sub-segments. Apart from
urban areas and metro cities, the rising awareness of
Beauty and Wellness is causing the expansion of the
industry in other areas as well (Fig. 1.4, 1.5 and 1.6).

Chief Executive Officer/


Chief Operating Officer

Beauty and wellness


Quality Assurer

Skincare Services
Master Trainer Centre Head Salon Internal Evaluator

Beauty Manager Aesthetician Skincare Trainer

Beauty Advisor Senior Beauty Therapist

Beauty Therapist

Assistant Beauty Manicurist or


Therapist Pedicurist
Fig. 1.4: Career path in skincare services

Beauty and Wellness Industry, and Beauty Therapy


5

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Chief Executive Officer/
Chief Operating Officer

Beauty and Wellness


Quality Assurer

Make-up Services
Centre Head Salon Master Trainer Internal Evaluator

Senior Prosthetic and Media Make-up Trainer


Make-up Artist

Senior Beauty Theatre, Media and Bridal Fashion


Therapist Special Effects and Photographic
Make-up Artist Make-up Artist

Assistant Beauty Manicurist or


Therapist Pedicurist

Assistant Beauty
Therapist

Fig. 1.5: Career path in make-up services

Beauty Therapist – Class XI


6

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Chief Executive Officer/
Chief Operating Officer

Beauty and Wellness


Quality Assurer

Nail Care Services


Centre Head Salon Master Trainer
Internal Evaluator

Nail Trainer

Senior Nail Technician

Nail Technician

Assistant
Nail Manicurist or Assistant Assistant Spa
Beauty
Technician Pedicurist Tattoo Artist Therapist
Therapist

Fig. 1.6: Career path in nail care services

Activity 1
Prepare a flow chart on the career path for a Beauty Therapist
in skincare services.
Material required: chart paper, sketch pens, pencil, eraser,
sharpener and ruler

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Notes Procedure

• Collect information on various job positions of a Beauty


Therapist in skincare services.
• Prepare a flow chart on the career path for a Beauty
Therapist in skincare services.
• Present it before the class.

Activity 2
Identify training and employment opportunities locally available
for a Beauty Therapist.
Material required: notebook and pen

Procedure

• Visit various beauty salons in a nearby market.


• Talk to beauticians and find out the various activities they
perform in a day.
• Find out if they provide training for becoming a Beauty
Therapist.

Check Your Progress

A. Multiple Choice Questions

1. ____________ involve(s) counter sale of beauty products,


including cosmetics and toiletries, which address
age-related health and appearance issues of clients.
(a) Fitness and slimming
(b) Alternate therapy centres
(c) Rejuvenation centres
(d) Product and counter sales
2. ____________ include(s) the core spa industry services,
such as spa operation, spa education, spa products
and events.
(a) Fitness and slimming
(b) Alternative therapy centres
(c) Rejuvenation centres
(d) None of the above
3. Unisex salons offer Beauty and Wellness services to
____________.
(a) men
(b) women
(c) both (a) and (b)
(d) None of the above

Beauty Therapist – Class XI


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B. Fill in the Blanks Notes
1. A Beauty ____________ provides skin, hair, nail care and
other related therapies to clients to improve their overall
appearance.
2. Fitness and ____________ centres provide services in the
field of physical exercises, yoga, aerobics, other mind
and body practices, and fitness and slimming.
3. The role of a Beauty Therapist includes applying the
right ____________, providing skincare services and doing
the hairstyle.
4. Customers, generally, visit a salon to avail beauty
treatments and ____________.

C. Subjective Questions

1. Describe any two sub-segments of the Beauty and


Wellness sector.
2. Describe the career path of a Beauty Therapist in nail
care services.

What have you learnt?

After completing this Session, are you able to:

• describe different services offered in the Beauty and


Wellness sector.
• identify the various sub-segments of the Beauty and
Wellness sector.
• Draw a flow chart for the career path for a Beauty
Therapist in nail care, skincare and make-up services.

Session 2: Beauty Therapy Services


Beauty therapy is a term, which includes a wide
spectrum of activities or services from head to toe. Each
service has a procedure of its own, which has to be
followed step-by-step carefully, else it can create muscle
and skin problems like rashes, allergies and infections,
which can lead to unsatisfied clients. Each service
requires a thorough knowledge of the products, tools
and equipment to be used. Also, care must be taken
that a client is not allergic to any beauty product.

Beauty and Wellness Industry, and Beauty Therapy


9

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(a) (b)
Fig. 1.7 (a) and (b): Various beauty services being provided to clients

Let us take a look at beauty therapies and services,


generally, provided to clients by a salon.

Manicure
Threading Waxing Bleaching
and pedicure

Face
Make-up Hairdo Mehendi
clean-up

Manicure
It is a treatment for improving the appearance of hands,
and is popular among both men and women. Most
salons have a separate area catering to this service. This
treatment helps in keeping the hands and nails clean
and well-groomed by pushing back cuticles, removing
dead skin cells and softening the skin — exfoliation,
massaging and application of nail paint. Thus, manicure
helps in:
• softening the hands.
• improving blood circulation in the hands.
• relaxing the hand and finger muscles.
• improving the appearance of hands and nails.

Pedicure
This treatment helps improve the appearance of feet
and toenails. Like manicure, it also includes exfoliation,

Beauty Therapist – Class XI


10

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using a pumice stone, and massage, followed
by painting the toenails. Pedicure helps in:
• softening the feet.
• improving blood circulation in the feet.
• giving shape to toenails.
• improving the appearance of feet
and toenails.
• relaxing aching feet.
• reducing hard and dead skin cells.
The major difference between manicure
and pedicure lies in the area to be treated,
Fig. 1.8: Manicured hands and
positioning of the client, treatment of hard pedicured feet
skin and massage procedure.

Threading
It is a hair removal technique, wherein a cotton
thread is used to remove the entire hair follicle
(Fig. 1.9). The hair is pulled out in a twisting
motion, wherein the thread traps the hair and
pulls it out.
• Threading is less painful than pulling
out individual hair.
• It is much quicker and safer than waxing.
• It is suitable for almost all skin types, Fig. 1.9: Threading of the forehead
including sensitive skin.
• No chemical is used.
• It gives a clean and well-kempt look to
the face and eyebrows.

Waxing
It is also a hair removal technique, in which
the hair is pulled out from the root by the use
of hot or cold wax. It takes around three to six
weeks for the new hair to grow. This depends
on a person’s hair growth pattern. Waxing is of
two types — strip and stripless waxing.
In strip waxing, a thin layer of wax is
applied on the skin and a cloth or disposable
paper strip is placed over it and pulled against
the direction of hair growth, removing the Fig. 1.10: Waxing of the hand
unwanted hair along with the wax.
In stripless waxing, a thick layer of wax is
applied and no cloth or paper strip is used. On

Beauty and Wellness Industry, and Beauty Therapy


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cooling, the wax hardens, which helps in the
easy removal of unwanted hair. It is said to be
less painful and removes even the finest hair.

Bleaching
Bleach refers to a bleaching agent, which
helps lighten the skin tone. Bleaching is done
to lighten the colour of facial hair (Fig. 1.11).
Bleaching is done for the following purposes:
• reducing dark spots and freckles
• lightening dark areas on the elbow
or underarm
• brightening the skin
Fig. 1.11: Bleaching of the face
• lightening the facial hair and making
them less visible

Face clean-up
Clean-up is done for unclogging the skin
pores and allowing the skin to breathe
(Fig. 1.12). It helps remove dead cells and clean
deep-seated dirt from the skin. In the process
of clean-up, the skin is cleansed, exfoliated
and moisturised. Unclogging clears the pores
and decongests the skin, thereby, allowing it
to breathe. It has the following benefits:
• imparts a healthy glow to the face
• cleans the skin thoroughly by removing
Fig. 1.12: Face clean-up
harmful bacteria, sweat and impurities
due to pollution
• wards-off acne and pimples
• improves blood circulation in the face

Make-up
It is a process of applying cosmetics on the
face to enhance one’s appearance (Fig. 1.13).
Lipstick, eyeliner, eye shadow, mascara,
foundation, kohl, lip gloss, lip balm, concealer,
face powder, etc., are commonly used in
make-up.
The film and TV industry, including
television media, and theatre, need make-up
Fig. 1.13: Applying make-up artists on a regular payroll. Hence, there

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is often an opening in this sector. Make-up has the
following benefits:
• helps create a favourable first impression
• boosts confidence
• hides skin flaws and blemishes
• protects the skin from pollution
• adds to the desired expression and looks

Hairdo
A hairdo or hairstyle is a way in which
the hair is styled (Fig. 1.14). It is
considered as an important aspect of
personal grooming and fashion, and is
popular among both men and women.
A hairstyle is achieved by arranging the
hair in a certain way by the use of combs,
blow-dryer and cosmetics like hair
gel, etc. Styling the hair is also called
‘hairdressing’, especially when practised Fig. 1.14: Making a hairstyle
as an occupation. Hairstyling includes
adding accessories, such as hairbands,
clips, pins, barrette, tiaras, etc., to the hair to hold
it in place and enhance its appearance. It has the
following benefits:
• enhances the appearance of the hair and face,
thus, increasing the confidence of a person
• helps in taming unruly hair

Mehendi (henna)
It is an art of decorating the hands
(including palms) and legs (including feet)
with designs using a natural plant dye
that colours the skin maroon-red. It is
a natural dye that leaves a cooling effect
on the skin (Fig. 1.15). Mehendi stays on
one’s skin for few days. It is done mostly
on special occasions, such as weddings,
festivals, religious ceremonies, etc.
Mehendi is made from henna leaves.
Fig. 1.15: Applying mehendi
It has conditioning properties and is also
used to dye the hair.

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Notes

Activity 1
Prepare a collage depicting the various services provided by a
Beauty Therapist.
Material required: chart paper, glue stick, beauty magazines,
pencil, eraser and sketch pens

Procedure

• Collect pictures of various services provided by a Beauty


Therapist, such as waxing, manicure, pedicure, make-up,
hairdo, etc., from magazines.
• Now, make a collage using the pictures.
• Write a brief note on each of the services as identified
by you.
• Present it before the class.

Activity 2
Role-play of a Beauty Therapist in preparing a client for waxing.
Material required: notebook and pen

Procedure

• Identify the various tasks (seating a client, wearing


protective clothing, removing the client’s jewellery and
keeping them in a safe place, etc.) that are performed by a
Beauty Therapist in waxing.
• List the items required to carry out the service.
• Decide the characters to be played by the students, such
as Beauty Therapist, Assistant Beauty Therapist, client
and other staff members working in a salon.
• Write down the communication to be made between
the Beauty Therapist and the client before initiating
the service.
• Ask for the client’s feedback after the service.

Check Your Progress


A. Multiple Choice Questions
1. ____________ helps in improving the appearance of feet
and toenails.
(a) Threading
(b) Hairstyle
(c) Pedicure
(d) Bleaching

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2. Manicure is a treatment for improving the appearance Notes
of ____________.
(a) hands
(b) feet
(c) toenails
(d) face
3. Face clean-up is done for ____________ the skin pores
and allowing the skin to breathe.
(a) clogging
(b) unclogging
(c) exfoliating
(d) congesting

B. Fill in the Blanks


1. In threading, the hair is pulled out in a ____________
motion, wherein the thread traps the hair and pulls
it out.
2. A ____________ is achieved by arranging the hair in
a certain way by the use of combs, blow-dryer and
cosmetics like hair gel, etc.
3. Styling the hair is also called ____________, especially
when practised as an occupation.
4. Strip and ____________ are the two types of waxing.

C. Subjective Questions
1. What is the difference between manicure and pedicure?
2. What is the purpose of waxing?

What have you learnt?


After completing this Session, are you able to:

• list the different services performed by a Beauty Therapist.


• describe the benefits of various beauty services.

Session 3: Preparing and Maintaining


the Work Area
A salon must be kept clean and disinfected. A suitable
temperature and adequate lighting facility must be
maintained. Besides, it must follow the required safety
measures. In the absence of these basic facilities,
the services offered by a salon can go wrong, which
might affect its reputation and clientele. In case of a
mishappening or an accident, clients can even sue the
salon, thus, destroying its reputation and business.

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Hygiene is of utmost importance in the Beauty and
Wellness sector. Therefore, a salon’s work area must
always be kept clean with adequate safety measures in
place. Tools and equipment needed for a treatment may
be kept in the area before a customer is seated and the
process actually begins. It must be ensured that waste
disposal is done immediately after each treatment. The
cleaning and disinfection of tools is mandatory.
You will study about various aspects related
to customers’ information, maintaining clean and
disinfected environment, personal presentation and
behaviour to be maintained in the beauty salon in the
following sections.

(a) (b)
Fig. 1.16 (a) and (b): The work area of a beauty salon

Maintenance of record cards


A record card is an important document, which contains
the following information:
• previous treatments taken by a client
• treatment the client has been booked for
• history of the client about the products to be
used, skin type, and if the person is allergic to
any product
Before starting a treatment, the record card must
always be referred to and details like name and address,
must be confirmed with the client to ensure that the
correct card has been picked up.

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Essentials of the work area
Usually, a work area is used for providing multiple
services. So, it must have the following:
• clean and disinfected environment
• clean treatment couch or chair, towels and aprons
• adequate ventilation and lights
• temperature controllers
• space to allow movement
• space for keeping the belongings of clients
• a quiet atmosphere with soft and soothing music
being played in the background as it helps
in relaxation
• tools and products needed for a procedure
• tools arranged in a trolley for a treatment
• pen and a record card of clients
• adequate cotton and tissues

Sterilisation and disinfection methods


Cleaning, sterilisation and disinfection of
tools and equipment are ways to prevent
contamination and infections (Fig. 1.17). In
addition to these, clean towels, spray bottles,
spatula, etc., must always be used to avoid
contamination and infections. Fig. 1.17: Sterilisation of equipment
• ‘Cleaning’ just removes dirt and dust. It
is done before sterilisation and disinfection.
• Next step is ‘disinfection’, which kills bacteria,
viruses and fungi. The cleaning agent must be
changed at regular intervals during the process
of disinfection.
• ‘Sterilisation’ is a method of killing microorganisms
with the help of steam. It is done by using an
autoclave (a closed container used for the process
that involves high temperatures and pressure).
Only tools made up of metals like scissors and
tweezers, and few heat-resistant glassware can
be autoclaved.
• Like sterilisation, ‘sanitising’ also destroys
germs completely. It is done by using heat and
chemicals. Household bleach (4% chlorine)
and alcohol solution (70%) are examples of few
chemical sanitisers.

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Equipment and material used in
a beauty salon
The various equipment and material used in a beauty
salon are shown in Fig. 1.18 (a–k).

(a) Tweezers (b) Scissors (c) Pumice stone

(d) Metal scrapper (e) Cuticle nipper (f) Cuticle trimmer

(g) Comedone extractor (h) Facial sponge

(i) Loofa (j) Cuticle cutter (k) Face pack brush


Fig. 1.18 (a–k): Equipment and material commonly used in a beauty salon

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Personal presentation and behaviour
The way a person presents oneself impacts one’s
professional life to a great extent. The way the person
looks, speaks, acts or greets the client — everything
needs to be appropriate at all times.
Tips for Beauty Therapist
A Beauty Therapist must:
• wear the salon uniform and make sure that it is
clean, neat and ironed.
• maintain high level of personal hygiene as the
person will be working closely with customers.
• maintain a neat hairstyle (long hair can be tied
neatly in a ponytail or bun).
• avoid heavy make-up.
• ensure that the breath is fresh and does not smell
of food or tobacco.
• keep the nails trimmed and clean.
• wear minimal jewellery.
• wear comfortable and covered footwear as it
allows working comfortably and protects the feet
from injuries by sharp tools.
• avoid eating or drinking in the work
treatment area.
• speak politely and always greet the
clients with a smile (Fig. 1.19).
• listen carefully and patiently to the
clients and try to understand what
they are trying to say.
• keep a client informed about how long
will it take to start a treatment and also
give the reason for the delay.
• wash hands every time before starting
Fig. 1.19: Be polite with clients
a procedure.

Safe disposal of waste


Safe disposal of waste is an important step as it helps
in preventing contamination and infections. Waste left
after a service is completed can pose health hazards for
both the personnel working in the salon, as well as, the
customers. Besides, it will leave a bad impression about
the salon. The following practices must be adopted to
dispose of the waste.

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• Throw disposable items like cotton, tissues,
wax strips, etc., in a covered bin immediately
after use (Fig. 1.20).
• Sweeping of the floor and disposal of waste
hair must be done before another treatment is
started (Fig. 1.21).
Fig. 1.20: Used wax strips need to be • Maintain a neat surrounding in the salon
thrown in a covered bin by putting things in their respective places
immediately after use. It also helps in saving
time and preparing the work area for the
next service.
• Ensure that all bottles have their lids on.
• Use the waiting time during a service to clean
the area. For example, when the nail paint is
drying during a manicure, dispose the dirty
water and tissues appropriately.
Fig. 1.21: Sweeping of the floor and
disposal of waste hair must be done • Clean the tools after a service and
before another treatment starts sterilise them.
• All cleaning activity must be done quietly
without causing inconvenience to the clients.
• Follow the instructions as mentioned on the
packet of an equipment for its usage and
cleaning. This increases the durability of
the equipment.
• Ensure the cleanliness of the workspace after
every procedure. Disinfect the work area.
Fig. 1.22: Keep used towels and linen • Change sheets and towels in the work area after
in a laundry basket
every treatment. Keep the used towels and linen
in a laundry basket for washing (Fig. 1.22).

Storage of tools and equipment


• Clean, disinfect and sterilise the tools and
equipment after use and before putting them
in their respective places (Fig. 1.23).
• Ensure safe storage of sharp tools to
avoid injuries.
• Do not put sharp tools in uniform pockets.
• Be careful with electrical appliances. Do not
leave the wires or other parts trailing on
Fig. 1.23: Store tools in a tray
the floor.
• Turn off electrical appliances when not in use.

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Compliance of rules and norms Notes
The rules and regulations for setting up a beauty
salon vary in different States and Union Territories of
India. These are to be registered under the Shops and
Establishment Act. Under this Act, it is compulsory
for every shop or establishment to register itself
within 30 days of the commencement of work. This
Act lays down rules regarding the working hours
of employees, guidelines for opening and closing of
shops and establishments, leaves for employees,
rules for employment and termination of services, and
maintenance of registers and records, including display
of notices, licences and certificates.
There are certain generic norms that a beauty salon
must follow.
• A salon needs to be registered and must have a
licence to operate.
• It must display its business permit and certificates
(cosmetic and beauty training) of its employees.
• It needs to maintain drinking water facility and a
clean washroom.
• It must have separate bins with lining to collect
different types of waste.
• The salon must contain approved disinfectants
and sanitisers, and these need to be stored safely
in their actual containers.
• Single-use or disposable items must be discarded
after every treatment.
• Reusable tools have to be sterilised or disinfected.
• The floor must be kept clean and the waste
generated in the salon must be disposed of
appropriately and immediately.
• All beauty products must be labelled.
• Personnel working in the salon must wear
Personal Protective Equipment (PPE).
• A full list of employees is mandatory to be
maintained and their police verification must be
carried out before they are hired.
• The records of clients need to be kept up-to-date.
• The first aid kit must always be kept in an
accessible place.

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Notes Responsibilities of Beauty Therapist
• Suggest suitable service plans to meet the
requirements of the clients.
• Ask relevant questions to the clients to identify
contra-indications to the skin and make-up
products, if any.
• Inform the clients of emergency procedures,
if required.
• Ascertain the approximate time it will be require
to complete a procedure and inform the customer
of the same.
• Periodically inform waiting customers of the time
left to start their service.
• Prepare the client for a treatment and provide the
person with a suitable protective apparel.
• Organise the products, equipment and tools
related to a service or treatment, and keep
them handy.
• Sanitise the hands prior to the commencement of
a service.
• Position oneself and the client to ensure privacy
and comfort throughout the procedure.
• Select and apply products to suit the client’s
needs and achieve the desired effect.
• Discontinue a service immediately and provide
advice and recommendations to the client in case
of contra-actions.
• clean the skin after a procedure to ensure that it
is free of dirt, and is toned and moisturised.
• Provide specific post-procedure, home care advice
and recommendations for product use and further
services to the client.
• Ask questions to check if the client is satisfied
with the result.
• Report health and safety risks or hazards to the
concerned personnel.
• Report to the supervisor in case of work issues
and unruly behaviour of clients.
• Complete the routine documentation in a
desired format.

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• Minimise the wastage of products by using them Notes
economically and following the storage and usage
instructions as mentioned on their cover.
• Ensure the safe disposal of waste material.
• Thank the customers for post-service feedback.
In case a customer is not satisfied with a service,
take actions to resolve the matter to customer
satisfaction or apologise for the same, and refer it
to the supervisor.

Activity 1
Prepare a list of equipment used in a beauty salon.
Material required: chart paper, glue stick, pictures of material
used in a beauty salon, pencil, eraser and sketch pens

Procedure

• Take a chart paper and draw or paste pictures of any five


tools and equipment used in a beauty salon.
• Write down the use of each tool and equipment that you
have selected.
• Present it before the class.
Activity 2
List the responsibilities of a Beauty Therapist.
Material required: notebook, pen, pencil and eraser

Procedure

• Visit a beauty salon and observe the various activities


being performed by a Beauty Therapist.
• Describe any one activity with regard to the following:
▫▫ Sanitisation
▫▫ Sterilisation
▫▫ Dealing with clients
▫▫ Maintaining record cards
▫▫ Preparing the work area
▫▫ Receiving customer feedback
• Present it before the class.

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Notes Check Your Progress

A. Multiple Choice Questions

1. A method of killing microorganisms with the help of


steam is ____________.
(a) sterilisation
(b) wiping
(c) baking
(d) steaming
2. ____________ is not a characteristic of a Beauty Therapist?
(a) having knowledge about products
(b) positive body language
(c) clean personal appearance
(d) being in a hurry
3. A salon needs to be registered and must have a
____________ to operate.
(a) safe drinking water
(b) licence
(c) positive body language
(d) None of the above
4. The basic sanitation practices in a salon involve
____________.
(a) keeping a dustbin
(b) sterilising the equipment
(c) using clean towels and gowns
(d) All of the above

B. Fill in the Blanks

1. Safe disposal of waste is an important step, as it helps in


preventing infections and ____________.
2. ____________ is of utmost importance in the Beauty and
Wellness sector.
3. The process of ____________ destroys germs completely.
4. The ____________ kit must always be kept in an accessible
place.
5. Dispose waste material as per organisational standards
in a ____________ and hygienic manner.

C. Subjective Questions
1. Describe any five responsibilities of a Beauty Therapist.
2. What do you mean by maintaining record cards?
3. Name any six tools that need to be sterilised.

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What have you learnt? Notes

After completing this Session, are you able to:

• prepare and maintain the work area.


• prepare a client for treatment.
• identify the equipment and tools used to carry out various
beauty services.
• sterilise and disinfect equipment and tools.
• segregate and dispose of the waste appropriately.

Session 4: Health and Safety


in the Work Area
The health and safety of people in a salon, i.e., staff
and clients, are important. A Beauty Therapist has to
work with various tools and equipment, which are to
be used to carry out certain procedures. There may be
situations when an equipment or a product may lead to
accidents. Therefore, it is important to learn about the
following in order to prevent hazards as they might pose
a risk to the health and safety of clients and salon staff.
The following needs to be taken care of in a salon:
• identifying hazards and evaluating risks at
a workplace
• health and safety laws
• workplace policies
• maintaining hygiene in the workplace
In order to be prepared to tackle any kind of
eventuality, it is important to identify the risks and
threats. Some measures that need to be adopted in a
salon are as follows.

Fire safety
In a salon, there are various items that can lead to a
fire. To avoid such a mishap, one must be aware of the
flammable items being used in the salon. Some of the
items that may lead to a fire are:
• combustible oils
• flammable liquids and gases
• fuel-fired equipment
• refrigeration equipment

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FIRE SAFETY

ELECTRICAL SAFETY

CHEMICAL SAFETY

POSTURE, LIFTING AND CARRYING

PARLOUR HYGIENE

Types of fire
All fires are not the same. The classification of fires as A,
B, C, D and K is based on fuels that trigger a type of fire.

Class A It is triggered by ordinary combustibles like wood,


paper, cloth, trash and plastics. This type of fire
can be easily extinguished by water.
Class B It is caused by flammable liquids, such as oils,
gasoline, petroleum paint, paint, paraffin and gases
like propane and butane. It can be extinguished by
methods that cut the oxygen supply.
Class C These fires involve energised electrical equipment
like motors, transformers, etc. These can be
extinguished by cutting the power supply and
using a non-conductive agent like Carbon dioxide
to put off the fire.
Class D It involves combustible metal fires. Potassium,
sodium, aluminum, magnesium and titanium
cause this type of fire. Water must not be used
to extinguish it. Dry powder, which works by
absorbing the heat and smothering it well, can
be used.
Class K These commonly relate to kitchen fires that are
ignited by cooking oils, greases, animal and
vegetable fat, etc. These can be put off by using
Purple K, which is found in kitchen extinguishers.
Wet chemical extinguishers can also be used.

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Types of fire extinguisher
Different kinds of fuels cause different types of fire,
requiring different types of extinguisher. Thus, it is
necessary to install and maintain them. There are three
important elements that can cause fire — heat, oxygen
and fuel. Fire extinguishers work by eliminating one or
two of these elements. There are primarily the following
types of fire extinguisher [Fig. 1.24 (a–f)]:

Wet Chemical Extinguisher


To extinguish cooking fires and ordinary
combustibles; used to extinguish fired caused by
the following:
• Cooking oil • Animal or vegetable fat
• Paper • Wood
• Clothes

(a)

Foam Extinguisher
To extinguish flammable liquid fires caused by
FOAM the following:
• Oil-based paints
• Greases
• Hydrocarbon liquids

(b)

Water Extinguisher
To extinguish fires caused by ordinary combustibles,
WATER such as:
• Paper
• Wood
• Clothes

(c)

Halon Extinguisher

To extinguish most types of fire, except those caused


by combustible metals

(d)

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Powder Extinguisher

POWDER
To extinguish most types of fire (not preferred to be
used in fighting electronic appliances fires)

(e)

CO2 Extinguisher
To extinguish most types of fire, except those caused
CO2
by combustible metals
• Effective in case of electrical fires
• Less effective in open air due to dispersion

(f)
Fig.1.24 (a-f): Types of fire extinguisher

Water and foam


Water works by eliminating the heat element. It is better
to use water only for Class A fires because it can cause
hazards in case of other fires. If used for Class B fires, it
can spread the flammable liquid, and in case of Class C
fires, it can lead to shocks. Foam can be used for Class
A and B fires but not at all in case of Class C.
Carbon dioxide
It works by eliminating two components, cutting off the
oxygen supply and heat by cold discharge. It is used for
extinguishing Class B and C fires, and is ineffective in
case of Class A fires.
Dry chemical
It is effective in case of Class A, B and C fires, which gives
it another name of being a ‘multipurpose dry chemical
extinguisher’. It creates a barrier between oxygen and
fuel, and hence, puts off the fire. If an ordinary dry
chemical extinguisher is available, it must be used only
for Class B and C fires.

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Wet chemical
They work in case of Class K fires (those caused by
cooking oils, fats, etc.). They work by eliminating the heat
and creating a barrier between oxygen and fuel. Some of
these can be used in case of Class A fires as well.
Clean agent
It uses halon and halocarbon agents to interrupt the
combustion process. It is used for Class B and C fires,
and some larger extinguishers of this type can be used
for Class A, B and C fires as well.
Dry powder
It creates a barrier between oxygen and fuel, thereby,
extinguishing the fire. It is effective only for Class D
fires and will not work on any other type of fire.
Water mist
Such extinguishers cut the heat element and can be
used as an alternative to a clean agent. They are mainly
used for Class A fires but can be used in case of Class
C fires as well.
Cartridge operated dry chemical
Such an extinguisher is mainly used for Class A fires.
It cuts the oxygen supply to the fuel and extinguishes
the fire.

First action
Every mishap can be dealt with efficiently and
effectively, if a person acts promptly and knows what to
do in case of a breakout. So, what must be done in case
of a fire at a workplace?
1) Stay calm and do not panic.
2) Alert the people around.
3) Dial fire service helpline number 101 (in India)
immediately.
4) Use your presence of mind and decide between
escaping (in case of a major fire) and trying to
extinguish the blaze if it is a minor one.
5) If one chooses to extinguish the fire, then choose
the type of extinguisher carefully, depending on Fig. 1.25: Signage for
the type of fire. assembly point

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6) If one is not able to douse the blaze, it is better to
escape the building.
7) Make way to the nearest assembly point or
designated area in case of an emergency (Fig. 1.25).
8) If one is on a floor other than the ground floor,
then the person must use stairs (Fig. 1.26) to
Fig. 1.26: Always use the evacuate a building and never use the lift.
stairs to evacuate a building 9) If someone is trapped inside, inform the firemen
and do not re-enter the building under any
circumstance.

First aid
If one catches fire, one must ‘stop, drop, cover
and roll’. This is the first thing that needs to
be done to douse the flames on clothes. In
case of burns, follow these steps.
1) Wash the affected area with running cold
water for at least 20 minutes (Fig. 1.27).
2) Put a wet cloth on the affected area, if
Fig. 1.27: Wash the burn with cold water running cold water is unavailable.
3) Do not use ice, butter, creams, etc., on the burn.
4) Immediately remove clothing and jewellery on the
affected area to protect the skin from further heat
and prevent the blood flow from stopping.
5) Do not burst the blisters as it can increase the
pain and chances of infection.
6) Check for other injuries, such as bleeding,
fractures, head injuries, etc.
7) Do not surround the injured person and provide
enough breathing space.
8) Reach out for medical assistance immediately.

Rescue techniques
In case of a fire emergency, the first course of action that
needs to be followed is to escape from the exit route. Be
careful of the surroundings when making your way out
or trying to save someone. Follow these steps for a safe
rescue or exit.
1) Look out for the nearest exit point — door
or window.
2) While making your way out, shout out if anyone
is left trapped inside.

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3) If there is a casualty, protect the injured person
from falling debris using a blanket.
4) Be careful while removing the debris to make way
for safe exit as it can trigger a collapse.
5) Touch the doors with the back of your hand as
palm is very sensitive and can easily get burnt. If
a door feels warm, do not open it.
6) Smoke is poisonous, so stay close to the ground.
If possible, cover the mouth with a damp cloth.
7) Move quickly and safely through the building, and
proceed to the nearest stairway. Do not use the lift.

Electrical safety
Electricity, a necessity, can be fatal at times. Shocks
from faulty or damaged equipment can cause severe
injuries and can even lead to permanent disability. One
needs to be careful while working around machines or
exposed cables. Safety depends on how one deals with
a situation and one’s alertness because a harm can be
caused by just coming in contact with live parts, directly
or indirectly through a conducting material.

Risks
The main risk associated here is the death of a person
or severe injuries. Some faults can even lead to fires or
explosions, risking the lives of the people around. The
occurrence of a short circuit in a place having flammable
liquids can also lead to a fire.
People at risk
• Maintenance staff, who look after
machines and their operations
• workers, working near an equipment,
and those working without taking any
training or precautions
• People, who misuse an equipment or try
to use faulty equipment
Causes of common hazards
Fig. 1.28: Be careful of exposed cables
• Exposed electrical parts like cables,
broken plugs and sockets damaged
appliances, etc. (Fig. 1.28)

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• Improper installation of insulated
grounding system or earthing
• Inadequate wiring or damaged wiring
like cracks in cables leading to damaged
insulation
• Overloaded circuits, which may lead to
short circuits in some cases (Fig. 1.29)
• Faulty equipment and tools, outer
cable insulation not secured into plugs,
leading to exposed parts
Fig. 1.29: Overloaded extension cords • Wet areas, as water is a good conductor
of electricity
Electrocution
When one comes in contact with a voltage, high enough
to cause a current flow, the person experiences a shock,
causing serious injury or death. It is called ‘electrocution’.
The minimum current experienced by a human body
is 1 milliampere (mA), and if the person experiences a
current of 100 mA or more, it can be fatal. Moreover,
electric shocks lead to various other complications that
can be severe and damaging.
Effects of electrocution
Burns
Electric shocks may lead to burns, which may be
minor or major, depending on the voltage of the
current experienced. Shocks above 500 volt can cause
breakdown of the skin and injury to internal organs.
Burns caused by such shocks can affect the heart too.
In extreme cases, organ failure is followed by the death
of a person.
Neurological effects
Electric shocks can also lead to complications in the
peripheral and central nervous system, and these may
show up early or later in life. The nervous control of
heart and lungs may get affected.
Fibrillation
An alternating current of 50 or 60 Hertz can lead to
ventricular fibrillation, which is rapid, irregular,
unsynchronised contraction of cardiac muscles of
ventricles. It can even stop the heartbeat.
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Damage to bones Notes
Electric shocks, leading to severe muscle contractions,
can cause fractures, dislocation of joints, etc.
Damage to respiratory system
Electric shocks can also paralyse the respiratory system,
affecting the heartbeat or altogether stopping it.
Preventing electric shocks
Shocks occur when a human body comes in contact
with a source of electricity. Electricity finds its path to
the earth through the human body. So, it is important
to be careful while working in a place that extensively
uses electrical appliances. Some practices that must be
taken care of are as follows.
1) Keep all electrical appliances unplugged when
not in use and at the time of a power cut.
2) Ensure that an extension cord is not overloaded
and replace it when it gets damaged. Pull out the
plug only after turning off the switch.
3) Electric appliances always need to be kept away
from water. Do not keep or use any appliance
near wash basins and never spill water on them.
4) Do not touch an electronic device with wet hands.
5) Make sure that the insulated grounding system
or earthing is functional.
6) Do not try to repair an appliance on your own. Let
an electrician handle the repair work.
7) Keep the electric appliances away from the reach
of children.
Rescue techniques and post-incident measures
1) Do not touch a victim with bare hands when the
person suffers an electrocution. However, try to
separate the person from the source of current.
2) Rescue is safe when power has been cut off
and the rescuer is standing on some insulating
material. Know the source of electrocution, and
then try to rescue the victim.
3) Make a call to the emergency helpline numbers
immediately.

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4) Careful judgement and planning is important while
rescuing a person. Do not proceed if not sure.
5) Check for injuries. There can be visible or hidden
injuries like bleeding, burns or fractures.
6) Cover the victim with a blanket to regulate the
person’s body temperature. But do not cover in
case of large wounds or burns.
7) Stay calm and monitor the condition of the victim.

Chemical safety
In the Beauty and Wellness Industry, various products,
containing chemicals, are used. Frequent contact with
these products can lead to some adverse health effects.
But these products cannot be avoided. So, it becomes
imperative that while using them, utmost care and
precautions are taken.

Harmful chemicals
There are some chemicals that are harmful to health but
it may be difficult to avoid these due to the lack of safer
alternatives. The following table gives information on
some of the harmful chemicals and products containing
them, and precautions that must be taken.

Chemical name Found in Symptoms of exposure Potential


products long-term effects
Dibutyl Phthalate Nail polish Nausea, dizziness, eye and Reproductive
skin irritation toxicity, birth
defects

Formaldehyde or Nail hardener, nail Breathing problems, Cancer, dermatitis


Methylene Glycol polish, keratin coughing, wheezing, skin
hair straighteners rashes, eye, nose and
throat irritation

Toluene Nail polish, nail Dizziness, headache, skin Liver and kidney
glue, hair dye, rashes, eye, nose and throat damage, birth
wig, hair glue or irritation defects, pregnancy
hairpiece bonding loss
glue

Methyl Methacrylate Artificial nails Breathing problems, chest Loss of smell,


(MMA) pain, eye, nose and throat reproductive
irritation, headache and toxicity, asthma
nausea

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Cyclopentasiloxane Flat iron sprays, Under the high heat of a Skin irritation
or Cyclomethicone thermal protection flat iron, cyclopentasiloxane
sprays creates formaldehyde

Formaldehyde Nail polish, body Leads to breathing problems, Cancer, dermatitis


wash, shampoos, coughing, wheezing, skin
conditioners, rashes, eye, nose and throat
cleansers, eye irritation
shadows, etc.

Styrene Hair extension Vision problem, trouble in Cancer


glue, lace wig glue concentrating, tiredness

Trichlorethylene Hair extension Dizziness, headache, nausea, Liver and


glue, lace wig glue eye and skin irritation kidney damage,
dermatitis, double
vision
1,4 Dioxane Hair extension Eye and nose irritation Cancer, liver and
glue, lace wig glue kidney damage

2-butoxyethanol Disinfectants, Headache, eye and nose Reproductive


or Ethylene Glycol cleaners irritation toxicity
Monobutyl Ether

Quaternary Disinfectants Skin, eye and nose irritation Asthma


Ammonium and cleaners
compounds or
Dimethyl Benzyl
Ammonium Chloride

P-phenylenediamine Hair dye, henna Skin irritation Dermatitis


tattoo

Glyceryl Permanent wave Skin irritation Dermatitis


Thioglycolate solution, ‘acid
perm’

Ammonium Hair bleach Eye, skin and nose irritation, Asthma, dermatitis
Persulfate coughing, shortness of
breath
Ethyl Methacrylate Artificial nails Eye and skin irritation, Asthma
rashes on eyelids, face
or neck, difficulty in
concentrating, coughing and
shortness of breath

Acetone Nail polish Eye, skin and throat Eye, skin and
remover, hairspray irritation, dizziness throat irritation,
dizziness

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Acetonitrile Nail glue remover Eye, skin and throat Weakness,
irritation, reddening of the exhaustion
face, chest pain and nausea

Butyl Acetate, Ethyl Nail polish, nail Eye, skin and throat Eye, skin and
Acetate or Isopropyl polish remover, wig irritation, headache, throat irritation,
Acetate glue or hairpiece dizziness dermatitis
bonding glue
Methacrylic Acid Nail primer, Skin burns, eye, nose and Kidney damage,
eyelash glue throat irritation dermatitis,
reproductive
toxicity

Chemical handling
The seepage or spilling of chemicals can occur
at any stage of providing beauty treatments to
clients. We can cut out on the harm caused by
them, if handled carefully. The following points
must be taken into account while working with
chemicals.
Personal Protective Equipment
All personnel working in a salon must wear
Fig. 1.30: Wear gloves before starting
to work with chemicals
Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) to avoid a
mishap or injury. PPE includes apron, mask,
gloves and head cover.
Work areas
Never use tabletops as storage areas. However, chemicals
for immediate use can be put on tabletops of the
work area.
Close bottles
The lids of bottles or jars, in which chemical products
are stored, must be closed tightly after use and kept
away from the edges so that they do not fall and spill on
to the floor.
Labels
All bottles must be labelled with the name of
the chemicals or products stored inside, hazard
pictogram and description about the product.
Make sure that the labels are not worn out
or damaged.

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Transportation
Do not carry chemicals and products loosely or in
hands. Use a tray or cart to carry the products and
avoid mishaps.
Check at regular intervals
Examine the inventory at regular intervals so that the
expired chemicals can be discarded and replaced with Fig. 1.31: In case a chemical
new ones. spills, immediately clean
the floor
Keep the floor clean from chemicals
In case, a chemical spills on the floor, then immediately
clean it (Fig. 1.31).

Chemical storage
Storing chemicals safely is important as even the
slightest carelessness has the potential to cause a
hazard and major accidents. Liquid chemicals are
more dangerous as compared to powders because they
can spill over to larger areas and increase the risk.
So, there needs to be a storage area and containment
facility to curb accidents. The personnel working in
the salon must be trained in storing and using the
chemicals. They must also be aware of what needs to
be done in case of an emergency. Precautions that can
help prevent accidents are as follows.
1) It is better to have a separate storage area for
chemicals to avoid hazards.
2) They need to be arranged in a shelf according to
their compatibility as incompatible chemicals can
initiate or intensify a fire.
3) They must not be placed on shelves higher than
1.5 m from the ground level.
4) Heavy and large bottles need to be kept in lower
shelves and flammable chemicals must be placed
in safety cabinets.
5) Every chemical needs to have a designated place
of storage and must be put back in its respective
place after use.
6) Ensure that the chemicals are not exposed to heat
or sunlight.
7) Each chemical must be labelled.

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Notes First aid
Chemical exposure can prove to be fatal in severe cases
and must be handled only by trained personnel. Every
response to an emergency counts, and therefore, the
role of a person providing the first aid to a victim is
important. The person providing the first aid must:
1) inform the authorities and emergency contacts
immediately.
2) not try to neutralise an injury with other
chemical(s) as it can make it worse.
3) not touch a burn, apply an ointment on the affected
area or burst the blisters. The person must wait for
a doctor instead.
4) keep a check on the victim till medical help arrives.
5) note down the name of the chemical that caused
the injury.

Posture, lifting and carrying


A stylist needs to stand for hours to provide services to
clients. The posture affects the person’s overall health.
An incorrect posture may lead to disorders related
to bones and muscles. Elevated arms can lead to
musculo-skeletal disorders, affecting the neck and
shoulders, while bending and standing for long hours
can affect the backbone and other body parts. Next
comes how one lifts and carries the stock. Sudden and
heavy lifting may lead to muscle pull and ligament
rupture. So, one needs to be careful with one’s postures
while working at all times.

Methods to avoid posture-related problems


• Do not strain a particular body part for a
long period.
• Move and stretch the body parts between services
or after every half-an-hour.
• Change your body posture by carrying out a
variety of services or activities.
• While sitting at the time of rendering a service, it
is important to have the chair at the right height.
• Exercise to keep the body fit and flexible.

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Fig. 1.32: The correct and incorrect postures (c) (b) (a)
while lifting a weight Fig. 1.33 (a–c): Follow these steps while lifting a weight

Measures to adopt while lifting and carrying loads


• Get help while carrying heavy and large loads.
• While lifting, bend at the knees to sit, use both
the hands to hold a load, use the legs to lift it,
hold it between the knee and chest (Fig. 1.33),
and stand straight without bending at the waist.
• While turning, move the legs and feet, avoid
twisting at the waist.
• While lifting the load, always use the leg and
buttock muscles as they are strong. Lower back
muscles are weak, so avoid straining them.
• Use equipment like hand trucks or forklifts to
carry the load to minimise injury risk.

Risks at workplace
We have already studied about the
hazards that one may come across at
a workplace. The risks associated with
these hazards are:
• tripping over stray wires,
• bumping into equipment and
things placed in the way and
falling or getting injured,
• electric shocks or fire due to loose
or frayed cables,
• slipping on water or some other
liquid spilled on the floor,
• allergy from unsterilised tools, and
• burns from heating rods and
hot water. Fig. 1.34: Hazards at a workplace

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Parlour hygiene
A Beauty Therapist’s role in maintaining
hygiene in a salon is of utmost importance as
it can make or mar its image. The person must
be careful about cleaning and maintaining
hygiene in the salon. Few important areas that
need to be taken care of are as follows.

Wash hands
Wash your hands with a hand wash or
anti-bacterial soap before performing a
treatment (Fig. 1.35). Since hands come in
contact with many people and things, such
as shaking hands with customers, providing
services to clients, using various products to
carry out treatments, touching used towels
and tools, etc., it is important that one washes
the hands before and after carrying out a
Fig. 1.35: Wash the hands with a
hand wash or an anti-bacterial soap
treatment. One can also use a sanitiser to
before and after a treatment clean the hands.

Work surface
The work surface includes the treatment
area, desks, glasses, mirrors, etc. Ensure that
they are clean and disinfected prior to use to
prevent infections (Fig. 1.36). Use clean sheets
for covering the work surface.

Chairs and couches


Chairs and couches must be cleaned daily
Fig. 1.36: Keep the work surface (Fig. 1.37). Couches and chairs are, usually,
clean and disinfected
made of material like Polyvinyl chloride (PVC),
also known as polyvinyl or vinyl. They are easy
to clean but cannot be disinfected with ethanol
containing disinfectants as they react with the
material, making it brittle. The cracks that
appear due to brittleness are prone to microbe
accumulation.

Tools and instruments


All tools and instruments must be cleaned and
Fig. 1.37: Keep the chairs and disinfected before use. Read the manufacturer’s
couches clean
instructions before cleaning an equipment.
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Floor Notes
The floor must be cleaned with a disinfectant regularly.
Make sure that nothing spills or drops on the floor. If
something spills on the floor, then clean it immediately.

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)


PPE is important for the safety of the salon staff as it
protects their clothes from stains and getting soiled. It
also protects them from various chemicals, which might
be harmful, and cause injuries or infections. It includes
the following.
Apron
It protects the clothes from stains and reduces the risk
of injury.
Gloves
It protects the hands from getting contaminated and
catching infections.
Head cover
It prevents the hair from coming in contact with a
chemical, and causing hindrance during a treatment.
Shoes
It protects a worker’s feet from spills or broken things.
Mask
It prevents cross-infection and inhalation of chemical
fumes and gases.

Activity 1
Prepare a first aid box.
Material required: cardboard box and various first aid material
(cotton, anti-septic liquid, cotton swabs for cleaning wound,
sterilised gauze, forceps, scissors, safety pin, Band-Aid, bandages,
etc.), white chart paper, sketch pens, pen, pencil and eraser

Procedure

• Take a cardboard box and cover it with a chart paper.


• Now, make the first aid symbol on it with a red sketch pen.

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• Put different first aid material in the box.
• Demonstrate it in the class.
Activity 2
Prepare a chart on the use of fire extinguishers.
Material required: chart paper, sketch pens, pen, pencil and eraser

Procedure
On the chart paper, draw a table as given below and put a tick () or cross () mark in the
blank space provided.

Fire
extinguisher Colour
used
Type Fires Fires Fires Fires caused Fires caused Fires
caused caused by caused by by burning by electrical caused by
by wood, flammable flammable metals like equipment cooking
paper, liquids gases magnesium oils
etc. and aluminium

Water

Foam

Dry powder

M28/L2

CO2

Wet chemical

Check Your Progress


A. Multiple Choice Questions

1. Class ____________ fire is triggered by wood, paper, cloth,


trash and plastics.
(a) A (b) B (c) C (d) K
2. Water and foam fire extinguisher is the most suitable for
Class ____________ fire.
(a) D (b) B (c) C (d) A
3. Dry powder fire extinguisher is used for Class ________
type of fire.
(a) B (b) D (c) C (d) A
4. Personal Protective Equipment include ____________ .
(a) scissors (b) forcep
(c) apron (d) tweezers

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B. Fill in the Blanks Notes
1. In extinguishing fire, ____________ works by eliminating
the heat element.
2. Wet chemical works by eliminating the heat and creating
a barrier between ____________ and fuels.
3. Carbon dioxide ____________ is effective in extinguishing
electrical fires.
4. A ____________ prevents cross-infection and inhalation of
chemical fumes.

C. Subjective Questions
1. What is electrocution? Write down the effects of
electrocution.
2. Write a brief note on the type of fire extinguishers.

What have you learnt?


After completing this Session, are you able to:

• prepare for emergencies.


• identify hazards and evaluate risks associated with them
at a workplace.
• sterilise and disinfect equipment and tools.
• segregate and dispose of the waste accordingly.

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Beauty Therapist-Class 11- Unit 1 Session 1
Beauty Therapist-Class 11- Unit 1 Session 2
Beauty Therapist-Class 11- Unit 1 Session 3
Beauty Therapist-Class 11- Unit 1 Session 4
Skincare
2
Services

Introduction
A Beauty Therapist is a professionally trained
individual, who specialises in beauty and wellness
services, and offers services from head to toe in order to
improve a person’s overall appearance. The therapist
performs skincare, make-up, depilation, manicure
and pedicure services.
The person must have knowledge of beauty and
Do you know? wellness, safety and hygiene standards to be followed
Skin is the largest organ in a salon, beauty products, and a range of beauty
of the human body. services that are available in market.
On an average, adults
This Unit gives an insight into anatomy and
have around 8 pounds
(3.6 kg) and 22 sq ft physiology of the skin and skincare services that are
of skin. performed by the Beauty Therapist, such as cleansing,
application of toners and skin fresheners, application of
moisturisers, and bleaching.
In order to provide effective skincare services, the
person must have knowledge about the basic anatomy
and physiology of the skin. The students will also learn
to identify the skin type. A make-up must be suggested
based on a client’s skin type. The students must also
understand the effects of voluntary movements of face,
neck and shoulder muscles.
Session 1: Anatomy and Physiology
of the Skin
The Beauty Therapist needs to be aware of the basic
anatomy and physiology of the skin in order to provide
effective skincare services. ‘Skin’ is the protective or outer
covering of the body. It is a waterproof, insulating shield,
guarding the body against extremes of temperature,
sunlight and harmful chemicals.
Skin: The skin acts as a protective shield for the body. The
Beauty Therapist needs to be aware of the basic anatomy and
physiology of the skin in order to provide effective skincare
services to clients.
Anatomy: It refers to the structure of the human body and the
relationship of different body parts with each other.
Physiology: It is the study of the function of different body parts
and the body as a whole.

Layers of the skin


Epidermis
The skin consists of three layers.
• Epidermis
• Dermis Dermis
• Hypodermis or subcutis
Hypodermis
Epidermis
Epidermis is the outermost or epithelial
layer of the skin. It is a waterproof
protective layer that covers the body Fig. 2.1: Layers of the skin
and serves as a barrier to infections. It
prevents loss of water from the body. Dead
The epidermis also prevents the entry keratubictte
Stratum
Lamellar
of foreign bodies into the body. It granules
corneum
Granular
does not have direct blood supply as Langerhans cell layer
cell
it contains no blood vessels, and all
nutrients are transferred to it from the Keratinocyte Spinous
layer
dermis. The epidermis has three main
Melanin
type of cells. They are:
Melanocyte
• Keratinocytes (skin cells)
Basal
• Melanocytes (pigment producing Merkel cell layer
cells) Lamina

• Langerhans (immune cells) Fig. 2.2: Uppermost layer of skin — epidermis

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Keratinocytes
Keratinocytes become more mature or differentiated
and accumulate keratin as they move outwards.
They eventually fall or rub off. A specialised structure
lies between the epidermis and dermis. It includes
various protein structures, linking the basal
layer of keratinocytes to the basement membrane
(hemidesmosomes) and the basement membrane to the
underlying dermis (anchoring fibrils). The basement
membrane ensures that the epidermis sticks firmly to
the underlying dermis.
Melanocytes
These are found in the basal layer of the epidermis. These
cells produce a black-coloured pigment called ‘melanin’,
which is responsible for skin pigmentation. Melanin
is packaged into small parcels called ‘melanosomes’,
which are then transferred to keratinocytes. Melanin
protects the skin against ultraviolet rays.

Melanocytes

Epidermis

Fig. 2.3: Melanocytes in epidermis


Langerhans
These are the immune cells found in the epidermis.
These are responsible for helping the body identify
‘allergens’ (material foreign to the body).
Other type of cells found in epidermis

Merkel cells
These are found in the basal layer of the epidermis.
Special immune-histochemical stains are needed
to visualise merkel cells, which are also known as
‘merkel-ranvier cells’ or ‘tactile epithelial cells’. These
are oval-shaped mechanoreceptors necessary for light
touch sensation and found in the skin of vertebrates.
However, their exact role and function is not understood.
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Dermis
It is the fibrous connective tissue or supportive layer of
the skin. It lies below the epidermis. It contains blood
capillaries, nerve endings, sweat glands, hair follicles,
and other structures. Dermis consists of collagen and
elastin fibre.

Hair shaft

Collagen and
elastin fibre

Dermis
Sebaceous glands

Sweat gland

Hair follicle

Fig. 2.4: Structure of the dermis

Collagen fibre
This type of fibre predominates
the dermis. Collagen fibre has
enormous tensile strength and
provides the skin with strength
and thickness. Collagen bundles Collagen
are small in the upper or papillary
dermis and form thicker bundles Fibroblast
Elastin
in deeper or reticular dermis.
Elastin fibre
It provides elasticity and pliability
to the skin. Fig. 2.5: Collagen fibre of the skin
Collagen and elastin fibre are
bound together by mucopolysaccharide gel, in which
nutrients and wastes can diffuse into and form other
tissue components. The dermis also contains nerves,
blood vessels, epidermal adnexal structures, tissues
and cells.

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Hypodermis or subcutis
It is a layer that lies below the dermis. It is also called
‘subcutaneous tissue’, ‘hypodermis’ or ‘panniculus’.
Subcutis mainly consists of fat cells (adipocytes),
nerves and blood vessels. The fat cells are organised
into lobules, which are separated by structures called
‘septae’, which contain nerves, larger blood vessels,
fibrous tissue and fibroblasts. Fibrous septae may form
dimples in the skin (cellulite).

Deep wrinkle

Epidermis

Dermis

Hypodermis

Hyaluronan and water Elastin Collagen Oxytalan Fibroblast Capillary vessel

(a) Younger skin (b) Older skin

Fig. 2.6: Collagen fibre in younger and older skin

Functions of the skin


Skin is the largest organ of the body. It performs key
functions, resulting from multiple chemical and physical
reactions taking place within it. The basic functions of
the skin are as follows.

Protection
Skin protects the body from injury, heat, radiation,
chemicals and microorganisms. Due to constant
shedding of ‘stratum corneum’, it acts as a mechanical
barrier and does not allow organisms to stay or penetrate

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into the skin. ‘Melanin’ produced by melanocytes Notes
present in the basal layer of the epidermis protects the
body from ultraviolet radiation.

Thermo regulation
The skin also serves as a temperature regulator,
enabling the body to adapt to different temperatures
and atmospheric conditions by regulating moisture
loss. This is done by controlling the secretion of sweat
by sweat glands followed by evaporation of sweat from
the surface of the skin.

Hormone synthesis
An active form of vitamin D is synthesised in the skin in
the presence of sunlight.

Excretion
Through the secretion of sweat and sebum, the skin
performs excretory function, eliminating a number of
harmful substances resulting from metabolic activities
of the intestine and liver.

Immunological role
The skin plays immunological role too as the langerhans
cells pick antigens from the skin and carry them to the
lymph nodes.

Sensory function
The skin has an intricate network of fine nerve terminals
between epidermal cells and specialised nerve endings
in the dermis and around cutaneous appendages.
These nerve endings carry the sensation of touch, pain,
temperature, wetness and itchiness.

Activity 1
Group discussion on the basic knowledge that a Beauty
Therapist must have as regards to the anatomy of skin.
Material required: notebook and pen

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Notes Procedure

• The class is divided into groups, each having 3–4 members.


• One student will lead each group and ask one’s respective
group to discuss the basic knowledge required for a
Beauty Therapist as regards to the anatomy of skin.
• The group leaders will present the discussion points of
their respective groups before the class.
• Other students will note down the important points in
their notebooks.

Activity 2
The anatomical structure of the skin is given below. Label the
parts of the skin.

Check Your Progress


A. Multiple Choice Questions

1. Epidermis has ___________ cells.


(a) keratinocytes
(b) melanocytes
(c) langerhans
(d) All of the above
2. Which of the following are the functions of the skin?
(a) Protection
(b) Excretion
(c) Both (a) and (b)
(d) None of the above
3. Epidermis is the __________ layer of the skin.
(a) lowermost
(b) outermost
(c) middle
(d) None of the above

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4. __________ protects the skin from ultraviolet rays. Notes
(a) Epidermis
(b) Subcutis
(c) Melanin
(d) Langerhans

B. Fill in the Blanks

1. The uppermost layer of the skin is _____________.


2. Dermis consists of __________ and elastin fibre.
3. Melanocytes produce a black-coloured pigment called
__________.
4. Langerhans are the __________ cells found in
the epidermis.
5. Dermis is the __________ connective tissue or supportive
layer of the skin.

C. Subjective Questions
1. Name the three layers of the skin.
2. List five functions of the skin.

What have you learnt?


After completing this Session, are you able to:

• explain the structure and functions of epidermis, dermis


and subcutis.
• state the functions of the skin.
• name the cells found in the skin.

Session 2: Types of Skin and Skincare


Skin analysis is carried out to understand the type and
condition of the skin, and suggest suitable treatment
to a client. The analysis must be carried out keeping in
mind the age and general health of the client.

Basic skin types


A Beauty Therapist needs to have knowledge about
the basic skin types before suggesting a treatment to
the client. There are four basic skin types — normal,
dry, oily and combination skin. Many internal and

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Notes external factors determine the condition of the skin,
such as climate, pollution, medication, stress and
hereditary factors.

Normal skin
‘Normal’ skin is balanced. It is neither too dry nor too
oily. The overall sebum and moisture content in such
a skin is balanced but the T-zone (forehead, chin and
nose) may be slightly oily. It is the rarest skin type.
Therefore, it is important to take care of one’s skin and
keep oneself hydrated always.
How to identify
• Normal skin is healthy, soft and has a
translucent glow.
• It does not have any mark or blemish.
• It has fine pores.
• There is adequate blood circulation in such a skin.
• Such a skin is not prone to sensitivity.
• The pH of such a skin is 5.5–5.8.

Dry skin
Dry skin produces less sebum than normal skin.
As a result, the skin lacks lipids required to retain
moisture and builds a protective shield against external
influences. Dry skin is because of lack of lubrication
from the sebaceous glands.
How to identify
• Dry skin can feel tight and rough, and looks dull.
• Such a skin has fine lines near the eyes and
mouth. Elderly women having dry skin have
prominent wrinkles and facial lines.
• It slowly loses elasticity with age.
• It is sensitive to irritation, rashes and infections.
• It is itchy if not moisturised regularly.
• The soles of the feet of people having dry skin
develop cracks.

Oily skin
Oily skin is the result of clogging of sebaceous glands,
causing sluggish blood circulation. Such a skin has

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increased sebum production as compared to normal skin. Notes
Many factors lead to the over production of sebum, and
hence, oily skin. They are — genetics, hormonal changes,
medication, stress and use of certain make-up products.
How to identify
• Oily skin is thicker and coarser as compared to
other skin types.
• It is characterised by a glossy shine.
• There are visible pores.
• Oily skin, usually, has pimples, blackheads and
whiteheads.
• The skin is also prone to acne.
• Such skin is, generally, found around the nose
and chin.

Combination skin
This type of skin is common. The skin type varies in
the T-zone and cheeks. An oily T-Zone and dry cheeks
indicate combination skin.
How to identify
• It is characterised by an oily T-zone.
• The skin has large pores in the T-zone.

Other skin types

Allergic and sensitive skin


Such skin is sensitive to cold, heat, wind and rain.
It becomes allergic and sensitive because of broken
capillaries, and results in rashes or irritation through
strong perspiration.

Matured Skin
It is somewhat similar to dry skin in appearance. It
appears parched, saggy and dehydrated. The skin has
deep lines.

How to perform skin analysis?


The following steps must be followed to perform
skin analysis.

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Notes Step 1: Inform the client about the steps to be
performed as part of skin analysis.
Step 2: Cover the client’s eyes with cool and wet
cotton pads.
Step 3: Now, look at the client’s skin on the face and
neck, using a magnifying glass in order to
determine the skin type, skin conditions and
the course of treatment.
Step 4: Slightly stretch small section of the skin using
middle and index fingers.
Step 5: Cleanse the skin by following the recommended
procedure.

Skincare techniques
There are three important skincare techniques —
cleansing, application of toners and skin fresheners,
and moisturising.

Cleansing
Cleansing is a common beauty treatment offered by
most beauty salons. It is done to remove impurities
accumulated in the skin pores. Cleansing lotion, gel
or milk can be used for deep cleansing. Cleansing cream
is used for cleansing and removing make-up. The cream
melts as soon as it comes in contact with the skin,
thus, allowing it to penetrate into the pores for deep
cleansing. The cream also prevents the occurrence
of blackheads.

Application of toners and skin fresheners


Toners are applied to refresh and cool the skin, and also
remove traces of grease on the skin. Fresheners provide
a soothing effect to the skin. Toners and fresheners are
used as finishing agents for cleansing. These also make
the skin soft and healthy.

Moisturising
Moisturisers are used to keep the skin soft and supple.
These are made up of Normalising Moisturising Factor
(NMF) ingredients. Moisturisers delay wrinkle formation.

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Aging of the skin, facial muscles
and muscle tone
Aging is a natural process, in which major body parts
and systems get affected over time. Aging is of two types
— internal and external. Internal aging is caused by
the genes one inherits, for example natural skin aging.
External aging is caused by environmental factors,
such as pollution, smoking, alcohol consumption, sun
exposure, etc., for example actual premature skin aging.
The early signs of aging start appearing around 28–30
years but they vary from person-to-person. Let us study
about the natural aging process.

(a) (b) (c)


Fig. 2.7 (a–c): Aging process of the skin, facial muscles and muscle tone

Skin cells
The formation of skin cells takes place in the bottom of
the epidermis. Gradually, the cells move to the surface,
where they die. In this way, dead cells are continually
shed away from the skin. In old age, this process slows
down and dead cells start forming a layer instead of
shedding. This, in turn, slows down the process of skin
regeneration. Dryness increases, which leads to the
formation of fine lines, wrinkles and sagging of the skin.

Age spots
These are caused by prolonged exposure to sunlight and
can be brown, black or gray in colour. Aging leads to
increase in melanin, which causes skin pigmentation,
leading to age spots. Fig. 2.8: An age spot on the skin

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Notes Bruising of the skin
The skin consists of three layers — epidermis, dermis
and hypodermis or subcutis, which get thinner with
age. The blood vessels, therefore, are prone to injury
as they lose insulation and protection provided by
the skin.

Formation of wrinkles
Aging leads to decrease in the production of skin
proteins — collagen and elastin, which are essential for
younger and healthy skin. Collagen provides firmness
and strength, while elastin provides flexibility and
resilience to the skin. The reduced production of proteins
leads to sagging of the skin and wrinkle formation.
However, beauty therapies, such as red light therapy,
LED, high frequency, etc., help activate collagen and
elastin production.

Dry skin
The skin gets dryer with age. As the number of oil
producing glands decreases, there is a loss of fat and
moisture, resulting in thinning of the skin. Even the
skin type changes from oily to normal to dry. Besides,
soaps, hot or cold temperatures, and use of some beauty
products may further make the skin dryer.

Shrinking of muscles
Muscles also age and lose their tone with time. Facial
skin and skin at the neck are attached to muscles.
The shrinking of muscles makes signs of aging more
apparent and the entire face starts to sag with age.

Bone loss
Our face is supported by various bones, such as brow
bone, nose, jawline and chin. With age, the skins under
the eyes, around the nose, mouth and cheeks sag, and
the jawline becomes less distinct due to bone loss.
Many go for filler and botox treatments in order to get
a younger looking face and skin. But these treatments
are expensive and done only by specialists.

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Face masks and their effect
on the skin
Face masks are beneficial in removing
impurities, exfoliating, hydrating, soothing
and toning the skin. There is an appropriate
mask for every skin type.

Need for face mask


Face masks penetrate deep into the skin —
to areas where a moisturiser fails to reach.
Fig. 2.9: Applying the face mask
Masks rejuvenate the skin by moisturising,
detoxifying and replenishing it. A face mask must always
be chosen according to the client’s skin type, such as
hydrating masks for dry skin, soothing and calming
mask for sensitive skin, cleansing mask for oily skin,
natural mask to nourish dull skin, and so on.

Types of face mask


A particular mask is not suitable for all skin type.
Everyone has a unique skin type and each mask has
its own set of properties. As mentioned above, the
Beauty Therapist must select a mask keeping in view
the client’s skin type. Face masks are mainly of the
following types.

Clay mask
The main ingredient of such a mask is natural clay,
which has a deep cleansing effect on the skin. The
mask draws the impurities on the surface of the skin
while drying. It unclogs the pores and tightens the
skin. It is best for people with normal to oily skin
as it absorbs excess oil without stripping the skin of
natural oils. Fig. 2.10: Clay mask

Peel-off mask
It, generally, comes in gel, plastic or paraffin
sub-types. Such a mask does not absorb as much oil
and dirt as clay mask. Peel-off mask is mainly used
for tightening the skin and promoting blood
circulation. It works best for mature and dry skin as
it hydrates and nourishes the skin.
Fig. 2.11: Peel-off mask

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Cream mask
It is ideal for people with normal to dry skin as it
rejuvenates the skin by moisturising it. Cream mask
has emollient or softening properties that make the
skin soft.

Fig. 2.12: Cream mask


Thermal mask
Such a mask when applied to the face, gradually,
warms the surface tissue and opens the pores,
thereby, allowing the skin to breathe. It works best
for those with enlarged and congested pores as it
cleans the pores from deep within.
Fig. 2.13: Thermal mask
Warm oil mask
It contains beneficial oils, such as almond oil, olive
oil, vitamin oil, etc., in equal parts. Therefore, it is
best for people having dry or mature skin as it makes
the skin soft and supple, and imparts a healthy glow
to it by promoting blood circulation.
Fig. 2.14: Warm oil mask
Natural mask
It is based on the rejuvenating properties of plants,
herbs and fruits like cucumber, papaya and oatmeal,
and is good for every skin type. Natural mask
moisturises and revitalises normal to dry skin,
and provides nourishment derived from natural
ingredients to the skin.

Fig. 2.15: Natural mask

Face mask: Points to remember


• Do not apply face mask more than three times a
week. Apply it on alternate days.
• Always cleanse the skin before applying the
face mask as it is important to remove the
impurities that might seep deeper into the skin, if
not cleansed.
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• The mask must not be left on the face for more
than 20 minutes.
• Apply the mask evenly, with clean fingers or a
mask brush.
• If the skin is inflamed or breaking out, applying
mask in downward–outward motion will
immediately reduce redness. For dull and dry
skin, apply the mask in upward movement in
order to increase blood circulation.
• Time the mask according to the manufacturer’s
instructions on the product’s package.
• If the mask does not have exfoliating properties,
scrub the skin gently before applying the mask.
This allows the mask to penetrate into the skin. It
is difficult to apply the mask, if there are dead skin
cells on the face. Therefore, it is important that
they are removed from the skin after cleansing.
• Some masks are removed by rinsing with water,
while others are removed by wiping gently with a
damp and warm cotton pad.
• After the mask is removed, moisturise the skin
while it is still damp to lock in the hydration.

Procedure of face mask application


The general guidelines that need to be followed while
applying face mask are as follows.
• Make the client wear a head band
to prevent hair coming in the way.
Tuck a facial tissue under the edge to
prevent the hair from getting soiled.
• Prepare mask as per the
manufacturer’s instructions on its
package.
• Cleanse the skin to remove all
impurities, excess oil and make-up.
• Apply the mask methodically
with a brush, covering the face Fig. 2.16: Removal of face mask
and neck evenly. Ensure that the
mask is applied up to the hairline to the base
of the neck. Avoid the area around the eyes
and mouth.

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• Apply wet and cool eye pads over the eyes.
• Time the mask from this point and leave it to rest
for 10 to 20 minutes.
• After the time is over, discard the eye pads and
use a clean and damp sponge to soften the
dried mask.
• Wipe the mask with firm upward finger
movements.
• After it is removed, tone and blot the skin, and
apply a moisturiser.

Pore is sealed Dead skin


with skin cells
Open
Bacteria comedo
Sebaceous
gland

(a) (b) (c)


Healthy Whitehead Blackhead
Fig. 2.17 (a–c): Skin impurities causing blackheads and whiteheads

Blackhead removal
Blackheads are a type of mild acne, which get clogged
with dirt, oil and sebum. The melanin further oxidises
with these impurities, causing the surface to appear
dark or even black. They can appear on the face, neck,
shoulders or even back. The main reasons of blackheads
Fig. 2.18 (a): Blackhead
are dead skin cells not shedding naturally, changes in
the hormone level, medication, acne-causing bacteria,
excess oil production in the skin, etc.

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Whitehead removal
Whiteheads develop when dead skin cells, sebum and
dirt clog the skin pores. Unlike blackheads, which can
be pushed out, whiteheads are locked within the pores
due to the presence of a thin layer of skin. This makes
the treatment of whiteheads slightly difficult than
blackheads. Whiteheads have closed ends, so these are
Fig. 2.18 (b): Whitehead
difficult to be removed.

Material used to remove blackheads


and whiteheads

Round loop extractor


It is a metal loop, which slides in the
pores and sweeps out the dirt without
damaging or irritating the pores. It is
an inexpensive and effective tool. It can
be used in combination with other face
cleaning methods like steaming as in
case of sensitive skin. After using this
tool, use a toner in order to close the
unclogged pores.
Fig. 2.19: Round loop extractor
Blackhead suction remover
It is a mini vacuum that sucks impurities out of the
pores using air pressure. It is a quick and painless
method of removing blackheads and whiteheads.
Scrub
Oatmeal scrub is beneficial in case of whiteheads. Gentle
circular motions help clean the clogged pores.
Face steamer
Put the client’s face close to the steamer as
recommended. Small amount of water is put
into the steamer, which converts into steam. The
steam helps unclog the pores, thereby, helping
in the extraction of blackheads and whiteheads.
Be careful while working with this machine. After
steaming is over, apply toner near the clean pores. Fig. 2.20: Skin warming using a steamer

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Skin warming or facial steaming
Facial steaming is also known as ‘skin
warming’. Steaming has multiple benefits
on the skin as natural oils flow freely into
the skin, thereby, preventing the pores
from getting clogged.

Benefits
• The skin becomes more receptive to
skin treatments, such as application
of masks, serums, etc., after steaming.
• Steaming increases blood circulation
Fig. 2.21: Skin warming using hot water steam in the face.
• It helps remove toxins from the skin
through perspiration.
• It softens the dirt clogged inside the
pores for easy removal.
• Steaming helps in relaxing as the skin
becomes free from dirt and impurities.

Points to remember
• Steam the client’s skin before applying
the mask as it helps open the pores
and enables deep cleansing.
• Cleansing and exfoliating must be
Fig. 2.22: Skin warming using a wet towel followed by steaming.
• There are two common and simple ways of skin
warming — hot towels and steamers.
• The first method involves dipping a clean towel
into hot water and putting it on the client’s face
after squeezing it lightly and cooling it. The
second option is to bring the water to boil, and
then, turn off the heat. Now, with a clean towel
draped over the head, place the face above the
pot containing the hot water to absorb the steam.
• Both the methods can be used for a minute or
two. Too much steaming can cause redness.
• Keep the client’s skin type in mind before
giving steam.
• The other method is using face steamers available
in a salon.

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Duties of a Skincare Therapist Notes
A Skincare Therapist cleanses and beautifies the face
and body to enhance a person’s overall appearance.
Some of the duties performed by the therapist are
as follows:
• perform facial clean-up and full-body massage
to improve the health and appearance of the
client’s skin
• clean the work area and disinfect the equipment
before starting the skin treatment
• analyse the client’s skin type and condition
• discuss the available treatments with the client
and decide the product that will help improve the
person’s skin quality
• remove all unwanted hair on the face by waxing
or threading
• clean the skin before applying make-up
• recommend skincare products like cleansers,
lotions, creams, face masks, etc., to the client
• teach the client to apply make-up and take care
of the skin
• refer the client to a dermatologist for serious skin
problems, if any

Activity 1
Identification of skin type.
Material required: notebook and pen

Procedure

• The class is divided into groups, each having 3–4 students.


• One student will lead each group.
• Students in each group are asked to identify each other’s
skin types — normal, dry, oily, etc. They will also look for
skin allergies, if any.
• Each group leader will present the observations made by
their respective groups before the class.
• The other students will note down the important points in
their notebooks.

Activity 2
Practical sessions on cleansing, moisturising and face
mask application.

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Notes Material required: cleansing milk or lotion, face mask, brush,
bowl, moisturiser, head band, apron, towel, water, eye pads,
cotton and sponge pads

Procedure

• The class is divided into groups, each having 3–4 members.


• The students in each group will practise cleansing,
moisturising and face mask application as per the
procedure given in this Session.
• The teacher will evaluate the performance of the students
and give them feedback.

Check Your Progress


A. Fill in the Blanks

1. Cleansing is performed to remove _____________


accumulated in the skin pores.
2. Creams are also used to prevent the occurrence of
____________.
3. Moisturisers delay the formation of _____________.
4. The pH of ____________ skin ranges from 5.5 to 5.8.
5. Dry skin is because of lack of lubrication from the
_____________ gland.
6. Oily skin has a tendency of developing open pores,
__________ and blackheads.
7. A __________ mask is used for tightening the skin and
promoting blood circulation.

B. Subjective Questions

1. Explain the step-by-step procedure for performing


skin analysis.
2. Explain the following skincare techniques:
(a) Cleansing
(b) Moisturising
3. What is aging?
4. What causes wrinkles?
5. Name and describe any two type of skin masks.
6. What is a blackhead?

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What have you learnt? Notes

After completing this Session, are you able to:

• state the importance of skin analysis.


• explain the steps for conducting a skin analysis.
• describe the common skincare techniques.
• identify different skin types.

Session 3: Actions of the Facial,


Neck and Shoulder Muscles
‘Muscle’ is a tissue that contracts and relaxes in order
to move a particular part of the body. Therefore, the
main function of muscles is to aid the movement of
various body parts and maintain posture. Muscular
movements help passage of blood, lymph and food
in the digestive system. The three types of muscles
found in the human body are ‘cardiac’, ‘skeletal’ and
‘smooth’ muscles. Cardiac muscles perform involuntary
muscular movements of the heart, aiding it to pump
blood throughout the body. Skeletal muscles are
attached to the bones and skin. They perform voluntary
muscular movements of the bones, aiding physical
movements of the body, such as walking, running and
writing. Smooth muscles perform involuntary muscular
movements of internal organs, aiding functions, such
as digestion, urination and breathing.
A Beauty Therapist must be aware of the location
and functions of various voluntary muscles of the face,
neck, hands and legs. In this Session, we shall study
about some of the voluntary muscles of the face, neck,
hands and arms so that the students are able to provide
massage correctly. We will also study about the effect of
voluntary movements of the following:
• Facial muscle
• Eyebrow muscle
• Muscles of the nose
• Muscles of the mouth
• Muscles of the ear
• Muscles of mastication
• Muscles of the neck

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Notes Facial muscle
The top of the skull is covered by ‘epicranius’ or
‘occipitofrontalis’ muscle. This muscle has two parts
— occipitals (rear part) and frontalis (front part). The
voluntary movement of frontalis helps in the movement
of eyebrows and skull. Occipitals and frontalis are
connected by the tendon.

Eyebrow muscle
Orbicularis oculi is a facial muscle that surrounds the
margin of the eye socket. It helps in blinking.

Muscles of the nose

Procerus
This muscle extends from the bridge of the nose to the
top between the eyebrows. Wrinkles are created across
the bridge of the nose by depressing the eyebrows.

Nasalis
Nasalis muscle of the nose compresses the nose,
causing wrinkles. It is responsible for the flaring of
nostrils when underwater, thereby, preventing water
from entering the nose.

Muscles of the mouth

Quadratus labii superioris


This muscle surrounds the upper part of the lip and
helps in opening the mouth by lifting the upper lip. It is
the reason behind a person’s facial expressions.

Quadratus labii inferiors


This muscle surrounds the lower part of the lip. It also
enables facial expressions.

Buccinator
It is a thin flat muscle between the upper and lower jaws.
The shape of the cheek is attributed to this muscle. It
puffs out the cheeks when blowing and keeps food in
the mouth while chewing.

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Caninus Notes
This muscle is located under the Quadratus labii
superioris. It raises the angle of the mouth at
the corner.

Mentalis
This muscle is situated on the tip of the chin. The
movement of the lower lip is controlled by this muscle.

Orbicularis oris
Flat band around the lower and upper lip is formed
because of the presence of this muscle.

Zygomaticus
This muscle extends from the zygomatic bone and
continues into the orbicular oris to the angle of the
mouth. It elevates the lip while laughing.

Triangular
This muscle extends along the side of the chin. The
corner of the chin is pulled down by this muscle.

Muscles of the ear

Auricularis superior
This muscle is present above the ear.

Auricularis posterior
This muscle is present behind the ear.

Auricularis anterior
This muscle is present in front of the ear.

Muscles of mastication

Temporalis and mastication


This muscle coordinates the opening and closing of the
mouth. It is also called ‘chewing muscle’.

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Muscles of the neck
Platysma
It is located in front of the throat. It pulls down the
lower jaw and angles of the mouth. The expression of
sadness is because of this muscle.
Sterno-cleido-mastoid
It is the largest cervical muscle and extends on either
side of the neck. The movement of the head is because
of this muscle.
Latissimus dorsi
This muscle covers the upper and middle region of
the back and back of the neck. It aids in rotating the
shoulder blade and controlling the swinging movement
of the arm.
Pectoralis major and minor
These muscles cover the front of the chest. They help in
arm movement.

Common body movements


Flexion
• Flexion is the movement to decrease the angle
between parts.
• Flexing one’s muscles, usually, results in
bringing the body parts close together. For
example, forward flexion brings the shoulder
girdle and pelvis close together.

Fig. 2.23: Common body movements

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Adduction
Adduction is a movement that brings a limb — arm or
leg — closer to the sagittal plane of the body.

Abduction
Abduction is opposite to adduction, i.e., taking a limb
away from the sagittal plane.

Fig. 2.24(a): Abduction Fig. 2.24(b): Adduction

Prone position
It refers to lying with the front or face downwards.

Supine
It refers to lying with the front or face
upwards.

Dorsi flexion
It helps turning of the foot or toe upwards.

Plantar flexion
This enables turning the foot downwards. Fig. 2.25: Plantar flexion

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Notes

Activity
Identification of muscles and their location.
Material required: notebook and pen

Procedure
Match the muscles with their location.

1. Nasalis (a) Ear


2. Caninus (b) Chin
3. Triangular (c) Mouth
4. Platysma (d) Nose
5. Auricularis superior (e) Throat

Check Your Progress


A. Fill in the Blanks

1. Epicranius muscle has two parts, namely ____________


and frontalis.
2. The voluntary movement of ____________ help in the
movement of eyebrows and skull.
3. The movement of the lower lip is controlled by ____________
muscle.

B. Match the Columns

A B
1. Buccinator (a) Situated on the tip of chin
2. Mentalis (b) Muscle of the nose
3. Procerus (c) Lying with the face upwards
4. Mouth muscles (d) Gives shape to cheek
5. Supine (e) Quadratus labii inferiors

C. Multiple Choice Questions

1. Which of the following is the muscle of the neck?


(a) Latissimus dorsi
(b) Temporalis
(c) Caninus
(d) Supine

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2. Which of the following muscle is present behind the ear?
(a) Auricularis superior
(b) Auricularis posterior
(c) Auricularis anterior
(d) None of the above

What have you learnt?


After completing this Session, are you able to:

• differentiate between the body movements controlled by


various muscles.

Session 4: Bleaching
We have fine hair all over the body, such as
stomach, back, etc. Unwanted hair must be
removed by suitable hair removal procedures.
The common hair removal procedures are —
bleaching, threading and waxing. However,
bleaching does not remove hair like threading
and waxing. It only destroys the colouring
pigment ‘melanin’. When a light ray passes
through them, the hair appear pale golden.
A number of chemicals, such as Hydrogen
peroxide (H2O2) and ammonia are used as
bleaching agents. Fig. 2.26: Bleaching agent

Patch test
As chemicals are used in bleaching, it is always
recommended to perform the treatment only after
conducting a ‘patch test’. This test is conducted by
following these steps.
Step 1: Select a suitable bleach based on the
requirement of a client and the person’s
skin type.
Step 2: Take a teaspoon of bleaching cream.
Step 3: Add two to three grains of ammonia to the
bleaching cream and mix well.
Step 4: Apply bleach on a small patch of the skin
behind the ear.
Step 5: Wait for 10–15 minutes and observe for allergy
or redness on the skin.

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Notes Step 6: If there is an allergy, then avoid using the
bleach. Natural bleach can be used in this case.
Step 7: If no allergy is observed, then one may proceed
with the procedure.
Bleaching
Material required
• Head band
• Medium and small size towel
• Cleansing milk
• Eye pads (tea bags, cucumber slices)
• Cotton pieces (2×2")
• Plastic, glass or ceramic bowl or plate
• Spatula
• Bleaching cream
• Ammonia
• Moisturiser
• Lacto calamine
• Ice cubes
• Chilled water
Procedure
Step 1: Collect the required information, such as
the age of the client, the last time the person
underwent bleaching procedure, etc.
Step 2: Seat the client comfortably.
Step 3: Identify the client’s skin type and condition.
Step 4: Conduct a patch test to check for infections
or allergies.
Step 5: Wrap a head band above the client’s forehead
and cover the clothes with a large towel, apron
or disposable sheet.
Step 6: Apply and spread cleansing milk all over the
client’s face and neck.
Step 7: Massage the neck and face in upward and
outward direction with a moist cotton pad.
Step 8: Prepare the paste required for bleaching.
Take 2–3 spatula of bleaching cream and 2–3
granules of ammonia, and mix well.
Step 9: Apply the paste to the upper lip first, and then,
to the rest of the face.

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Step 10: Place eye pads to protect the eyes from watering. Notes
Step 11: Now, wait for 5–7 minutes for the bleach
to process.
Step 12: Remove little bleach from few spots and observe
or the colour of the hair.
Step 13: If the hair is not bleached as desired, wait for
another five minutes.
Step 14: Again check for the effectiveness of the bleach.
Step 15: Remove the bleach with a spatula from all over
the face and neck.
Step 16: Rub an ice cube all over the face and neck
for relaxation.
Step 17: Apply moisturiser, sunscreen lotion or oil on
the face.
Step 18: Lay a thin layer of lacto calamine in order to
give a soothing effect to the skin.

Advantages
• It gives instant result (within 10 minutes).
• It lightens the skin tone.
• It helps in removing suntan.

Disadvantages
• Prolonged use of chemicals may have harmful
effects on the skin and hair.
• The client requires post-bleach care.

Activity 1
Role-play on conducting patch test.
Material required: bleaching cream, ammonia granules, mixing
bowl and brush

Procedure
Step 1: Select bleach based on a person’s skin type and
requirement.
Step 2: Apply bleach on a small patch of the skin behind
the ear.
Step 3: Wait for 10–15 minutes and observe for allergy or
redness on the skin.

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Notes Step 4: If there is an allergy, then avoid using chemical
bleach. Natural bleach can be used in such cases.
Step 5: If no allergy is observed, then you may proceed
with the bleaching procedure.

Activity 2
Role-play on bleaching.
Material required: head band, towel, cleansing milk, eye pads
(tea bags or cucumber slices), cotton pieces (2×2"), plastic glass
or ceramic bowl, spatula, bleaching cream, ammonia grains,
moisturiser, lacto calamine, ice cubes and chilled water

Procedure
Step 1: Collect required information like the age of a client,
last time the person had underwent bleaching
procedure, etc.
Step 2: Offer a comfortable chair to the client.
Step 3: Identify the client’s skin type and condition.
Step 4: Conduct a patch test to check for infections
or allergies.
Step 5: Wrap a head band above the client’s forehead and
cover the clothes with a large towel or apron.
Step 6: Apply and spread cleansing milk all over the
client’s face and neck.
Step 7: Prepare the bleaching paste. Follow these steps.
• Take 2–3 spatula of bleaching cream.
• Add 2–3 granules of ammonia to it and
mix well.
Step 8: Apply the paste to the upper lip first, and then, to
the rest of the face.
Step 9: Place eye pads on the eyes to protect them from
watering.
Step 10: Wait for 5–7 minutes for the bleach to process.
Step 11: Remove little bleach from few spots and observe
for the colour of the hair.
Step 12: If the hair is not bleached as desired, then wait for
another five minutes.
Step 13: Again check for the effectiveness of the bleach.
Step 14: Remove the bleach with a spatula from all over the
face and neck.
Step 15: Rub an ice cube all over the face and neck
for relaxation.
Step 16: Apply moisturiser, sunscreen lotion or oil on
the face.
Step 17: Lay a thin layer of lacto calamine on the face in
order to give a soothing effect to the skin.

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Check Your Progress Notes
A. Fill in the Blanks

1. Chemicals, such as H2O2 and ammonia are used as


___________ agents.
2. It is recommended that a __________ test is conducted
before starting the actual bleaching process.
3. Eye pads are required to protect a person’s eyes
from ___________.
4. Bleaching paste is prepared by mixing bleaching cream
with __________ grains.

B. Subjective Questions

1. Name two bleaching agents.


2. Write down the procedure for conducting a patch test.
3. What are the advantages of bleaching?

What have you learnt?


After completing this Session, are you able to:

• carry out a patch test.


• perform bleaching procedure.

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Beauty Therapist-Class 11- Unit 2 Session 1
Beauty Therapist-Class 11- Unit 2 Session 2
Beauty Therapist-Class 11- Unit 2 Session 3

Beauty Therapist-Class 11- Unit 2 Session 4


Manicure and
3 Pedicure Services

Introduction
The two most common services that are provided by
beauty parlours are ‘manicure’ and ‘pedicure’. A Beauty
Therapist is expected to be proficient in providing these
services. ‘Manicure’ is a treatment that improves the
appearance of nails and hands, and softens them,
whereas, ‘pedicure’ has the same impact on feet. Since
manicure and pedicure relax the muscles and skin
of the hand and feet, respectively, it is important to
understand some basics about the anatomy of the hand
and feet.
The Beauty Therapist, in particular, must know about
the following:
• anatomical structure, functions and characteristics
of nails, and the process of nail growth. The
structure of the nail includes:
▫▫ Nail root matrix
▫▫ Nail mantle
▫▫ Nail plate
▫▫ Nail wall
▫▫ Nail grooves
▫▫ Nail bed
▫▫ Lunula
▫▫ Free edge
▫▫ Hyponychium
▫▫ Cuticle
• anatomical structure of the skin and its functions. Notes
The structure of the skin includes:
▫▫ layers of the epidermis — dermis and
subcutaneous layer
▫▫ hair follicle, hair shaft, sebaceous gland,
arrector pili muscle, sweat gland and sensory
nerve endings
• names and position of bones in the lower leg
and feet
• names and position of bones in the wrist, hands,
fingers and forearm
• structure and functions of lymphatic vessels in
the lower leg, feet, hands and arms
• position of arteries and veins in the lower leg, feet,
hands and arms
• location of muscles in the lower leg, feet, hands
and arms
• nail diseases and disorders
• nail and skin analysis by visual or manual
examination to identify treatable conditions and
contra-indications, restricting or preventing a service

Session 1: Anatomy of the


Nail, Hand and Feet
Anatomy is the study of the structure of the body of
humans and animals, what it is made of, i.e., bones,
muscles and skin.
The human body consists of various organ systems,
such as circulatory, digestive, respiratory, excretory,
nervous and endocrine. A synergistic function of these
systems is vital for the health and wellness of a person.
Beauty therapies help relieve stress through massage
and naturopathy procedures or other alternative
therapies, which relax the muscles. Therefore, it is
important to know about the anatomy of arms, legs,
hands and feet. The main systems of human body are
— respiratory, venous, arterial, muscular, digestive,
skeletal, nervous, lymphatic, endocrine, urogenital and
integumentary (Fig. 3.1). The knowledge of anatomy
also helps in the identification of diseases, infections
and contra-indications.

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Respiratory Venous Arterial

Muscular Digestive Skeletal Nervous

Lymphatic Endocrine Urogenital Integumentary


Fig. 3.1: Body systems

Skeletal system
Its main function is to protect the internal organs. For
example, the ribcage protects the heart and lungs, the
skull protects the brain, vertebral column protects
spine, and so on. The skeleton works with the muscular
system, which provides movement and control of the
body. Muscles are attached to bones and they are
collectively responsible for postures and movements.
The skeletal system is composed of the following.
1) Bones: These form the framework of the human
skeleton.
2) Bone marrow: These are flexible tissues located
in bones, where blood cells are produced.
3) Joints: The point at which two or more bones meet
is called a ‘joint’. Joints not only connect bones
but also bear our weight and enable us to bend
and move.
4) Cartilage: These are the connective tissues
found in joints, which support other tissues that
cannot rejuvenate. Cartilage does not contain
blood vessels.
5) Tendon: It is the tissue where a muscle attaches
to the bone.
6) Ligament: It is the tissue that connects two bones.

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Massage assists the skeletal system in these ways:
• improves posture
• improves muscle tone
• reduces joint stiffness and pain
• increases flexibility of muscles
• increases range of motions
• reduces inflammation
• improves soreness and fatigue
• reduces the number and intensity of muscle spasms
• facilitates body alignment
• facilitates mineral retention
• relaxes tight muscles and tendons
Let us now take a look at the following diagrams
[Fig. 3.2(a), 3.2(b) and 3.3] for a better understanding
of bones.

Humerus
(upper arm)

Femur
(upper leg)

Patella (knee cap)


Ulna
Forearm
Tibia
Radius
Lower leg Fibula

8 Carpals (wrist)

5 Metacarpals (hand)

14 Phalanges
(finger bones)

Fig. 3.2(a): Bones of 7 Tarsal (ankle)


the arm Fig. 3.2(b):
5 Metatarsals (foot) Bones of the leg

14 Phalanges (toe bones)

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Talus

Tarsals:
Navicular

Intermediate cuneiform

Calcaneus Medial cuneiform

Phalanges Tarsals:
Cuboid
Lateral cuneiform

Metatarsals
Metacarpal
bones Phalanges:
Proximal
Middle
Carpal Distal
bones
Fig. 3.4: Bones in the foot

Fig. 3.3: Bones in fingers and wrist

Muscular system
There are over 650 muscles in the body, which are
responsible for providing strength, movement, balance,
contraction, posture, stability and muscle tone (Fig. 3.5).
Muscles are mainly of three types — skeletal, cardiac and
smooth. They provide stability to joints, such as knees
and shoulders, work together to contract and provide
posture and heat production.
Massage assists the muscular system in the
following ways:
• reduces connective tissue thickening
• helps in toning up the muscles
• decreases fibrous adhesions from muscle tissue
injury or immobilisation
• enhances cell activity
• enhances posture and balance
• enhances range of motions
• facilitates movement
• facilitates waste removal in the lymph system
• increases flexibility
• reduces pain
• helps in post-operative rehabilitation, a period of

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recovery after
a surgery Deltoid Trapezius
• provides relaxation
Pectoralis
• releases facial Biceps
Triceps
constrictions Rectus abdominus
Latissimus dorsi
Finger flexors
• stimulates the Obliques Finger extensors
Gluteus maximus
circulatory system
• stimulates the
Quadriceps Hamstrings
nervous system’s
Gastrocnemius
sensory neurons
• warms up or Soleus
warms down
muscles during
Fig. 3.5: Muscles in the body
an exercise

Structure of the nail


In order to provide manicure and pedicure services to
clients, there is a need to learn about the structure and
functions of nails. A Beauty Therapist must be able to
judge when is it safe to work on clients and when they
need to see a dermatologist.
Nails tell a lot about a person’s health. Healthy nails
are smooth, shiny and translucent pink. Systemic
problems in a person can show up in the nails as nail
disorders or poor nail growth.
Nails are made up of a protein called ‘keratin’. The
purpose of nails is to protect the ends of fingers and
toes, and help the fingers grasp small objects. Adult
fingernails grow at an average rate of 1/8 inch per
month, whereas, toenails have a slower growth pattern.
Usually, a complete nail takes 4–6 months to grow.
The growth of nails is faster during summers than in
winters. The nail growth is the fastest on the middle
finger and slowest on the thumb.
The nail is divided into six parts — root, nail bed,
nail plate, eponychium (cuticle), perionychium and
hyponychium [Fig. 3.6 (a and b)]. Each structure has
a specific function, and if disrupted, it can result in an
abnormal appearing fingernail.

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Free edge Nail growth and structure
of the nail

Nail growth
Nail plate
Nails grow throughout life but their growth slows down
with age and poor blood circulation. Fingernails grow
faster than toenails at a rate of 3 mm per month. It
Lateral
nail fold takes 4–6 months for a nail to grow from the root to the
Lunula free edge. Toenails grow about 1 mm per month and
Eponychium take 12–18 months to be completely replaced.
(Cuticle)
Nail root
(a)
The root of the fingernail is also known as ‘germinal
Nail Nail Cuticle
matrix’. It lies beneath the skin behind the fingernail
matrix root Distal edge
Nail plate of nail plate and extends several millimetres into the finger. The
root produces most volume of the nail and the nail bed.
This portion of the nail does not contain melanocytes or
Hyponychium
Nail bed
melanin producing cells. The edge of the germinal matrix
is a white, crescent-shaped structure called ‘lunula’
Phalanx (bone of the fingertip)
[Fig. 3.6 (a and b)].
(b)
Fig. 3.6 (a and b): Structure Nail bed
of the nail
Nail bed is a part of the nail matrix called ‘sterile matrix’.
It extends from the edge of germinal matrix or lunula
to hyponychium. The nail bed contains blood vessels,
nerves and melanocytes or melanin producing cells. As
the nail is produced by the root, it streams down along
the nail bed, which adds ‘kerat’ to the under surface of
the nail, making it thicker [Fig. 3.6 (a and b)].

Distal (free) edge Nail plate


Nail plate is the actual fingernail and is
Nail plate
made up of translucent keratin. The pink
Lateral
Lateral nail fold nail fold appearance of the nail comes from blood
vessels that lie underneath the nail plate.
Lunula The underneath surface has grooves along
Eponychium
Cuticle
Proximal
the length of the nail that helps to anchor
Nail root nail fold the nail bed [Fig. 3.6 (a and b)].
Eponychium or cuticle
The cuticle of the fingernail is also called
‘eponychium’. It is located between the
skin of the finger and the nail plate, fusing
these structures together and providing a
Fig. 3.7: Parts of the nail
waterproof barrier (Fig. 3.7).
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Perionychium Notes
Perioncyhium is the skin that overlies the nail plate
on its sides. It is also known as ‘paronychial edge’.
Perionychium is the site for hang nails, ingrown nails
and infection of the skin called ‘paronychia’.
Hyponychium
Hyponychium is the area between the nail plate and
fingertip. It is the junction between the free edge of nail
and skin of the fingertip, providing a waterproof barrier.

Activity 1
Label the bones of the arm as shown in
Figure 1.
Material required: pen, pencil and eraser

Procedure

• Identify and label the bones of the arm.


• Present it before the class.
Activity 2
Label the muscles found in the human body
as shown in Figure 2.
Material required: pen, pencil and eraser
Figure 1
Procedure

• Identify and label the bones found in the human body.


• Present it before the class.

Figure 2

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Notes Check Your Progress

A. Multiple Choice Questions


1. The nail is divided into __________ parts.
(a) four
(b) five
(c) six
(d) seven
2. Fingernails grow ___________ than toenails.
(a) faster
(b) slower
(c) more
(d) less
3. Hyponychium is the area between the __________ plate
and fingertip.
(a) Toe
(b) nail
(c) skin
(d) arm
4. The point at which two or more bones meet is called a
__________.
(a) cartilage
(b) ligament
(c) joint
(d) tendon

B. Fill in the Blanks


1. In bone __________, blood cells are produced.
2. The tissue where a muscle attaches to the bone is called
__________.
3. The tissue that connects two bones is called a __________.
4. Massage helps in improving _________ circulation and
_________ tight muscles and tendons.

What have you learnt?


After completing this Session, are you able to:

• describe the structure and functions of the bones and


muscles of arms, legs, hand and feet.
• identify the different parts of a nail.

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Session 2: Manicure
The treatment for improving the
appearance of fingernails and hands is
known as manicure, whereas, the same
treatment meant for improving the
appearance of toenails, feet and legs
is known as pedicure. In this Session,
you will learn about ‘manicure’.
Manicure is a popular service in
salons as smooth skin, well-shaped
and varnished nails are vital for a
well-groomed appearance (Fig. 3.8).
Regular beauty treatment helps prevent
minor nail damages.
Professional attention to nails and
surrounding skin encourages nail
Fig. 3.8: Manicure procedure
growth, keeps cuticles pushed back
and prevents minor skin conditions.

Preparing the work area


Preparation is the key to being a Beauty Therapist
regardless of the treatment being carried out. Many
salons have a designated work area for manicure and
pedicure. Wherever a treatment is carried out, ensure
that all material, equipment and products are handy.

Hygiene
• Clean trolleys, work surface(s) and shelves with
surgical spirit.
• Clean and disinfect the work surface(s) prior to use.
• Use clean warm towels and bedroll for each client.
• Use disposable products.
• Use a spatula to take out products from containers.
• Clean the neck of a nail enamel bottle before
putting the lid on.
• Maintain a clean and tidy work area.
• The therapist must wash the hands with soap or
hand wash before and after each treatment.
• Sterilise all tools before and after use or dispose
them of, depending on their type.

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Equipment and material used in manicure and pedicure

Emery board
It has two sides — a coarse side for filing the nails and a fine side
for shaping and bevelling the nails. Emery boards are difficult
to clean, although some manufacturers have developed special
cleansers for this purpose.

Orange stick
The two ends of an orange stick have different purposes. The
pointed side is used to apply cuticle or buffing cream. The
other side, when tipped with a cotton wool, can be used to
clean under the free edge, remove excess enamel and ease
the cuticle.

Cuticle knife
It is used to push back the cuticles and remove dead cells from
the nail area.

Cuticle nipper
It is used to remove hangnails and dead skin cells around the
cuticles.

Nail scissors
These are used to cut the nails.

Toenail clippers
These are used to cut and shorten the toenails prior to filing.

Nail buffer
It is a pad covered with chamois leather and has a handle. It is
used in conjunction with a buffing paste. Buffing adds sheen to
nails, stimulates blood circulation and growth at the matrix. It
is used in pedicure and manicure, or when nail varnish is not
applied. To clean the nail buffer, wipe it with an appropriate
cleansing solution.

3-way buffer
It is used to smoothen the nails and remove longitudinal and
horizontal lines on it, if any. Wipe the 3-way buffer between
uses with an appropriate cleansing solution.

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Nail brush
It is used to clean the nails of clients and beauty therapists.
Wash the brush in hot soapy water or sterilise it in a chemical
solution before and after use. When using from nail-to-nail,
clean it with a steriliser. On completion of a treatment, sterilise
the brush in a cold sterilising solution.

Hoof stick
It is, usually, made of plastic but may be wooden too, having
a rubber end to push back the cuticles. It is pointed at one
end and may be tipped with cotton wool to clean under free
edge. When using from nail-to-nail, clean it with a steriliser.
On completion of the treatment, sterilise the hoof stick in a
cold sterilising solution.

Hard skin rasp or grater


It is used in pedicure after the feet have been soaked in
lukewarm water. It can be used in conjunction with a hard
skin remover. Use it on areas of hard skin in rubbing action
with light pressure. After use, wash the hard skin rasp in hot
soapy water and dispose of the waste. Now, sterilise it in a cold
chemical solution.

Pumice stone
It is a coarse stone used in pedicure to remove dead skin cells
from the soles of the feet.

Contra-indications
A contra-indication is a reason, symptom or situation
that prevents the entire or part of a treatment from
being carried out safely.
Classification of contra-indications
• Contra-indications that prevent treatment
(cannot treat)
• Contra-indications that restrict treatment
(work around)
Contra-indications that prevent treatment
Haemophilia
It is a rare bleeding disorder, in which blood does not
clot normally.

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Notes Arthritis
It is the swelling of one or more joints in the body.
Bruised nail
It is an injury to the nail bed that causes discoloured nails.
Psoriasis of the nail
This can be described as a non-contagious disorder that
causes deep pitting of the nail bed.
Onycholysis
Trauma to the free edge of the nail that causes
separation of the nail from the bed.
Tineaunguium
It is a ringworm (fungal infection) that causes yellow
or white patches on the nail, leading to peeling of the
nail plate.
Contra-indications that may restrict treatment
There are certain contra-indications that may require a
change or modification in service due to risks but are
not necessarily a reason for stopping a treatment. These
include the following.
Onychorrhexis
It is the dryness and brittleness of the nail that causes
its vertical splitting.
Leukonychia
It can be described as an injury to the nail that causes
white spots on the nail plate.
Furrows
These are ridges in the nail caused by trauma, age,
injury or ill-health.
Beau’s lines
These are ridges across the nail caused by ill-health or
poor quality manicure.
Onychophagy
It is very little free edge and sore skin around the nail
caused by biting of the nail and its surrounding skin.

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Nail separation
• This is a condition, wherein a part of the nail
comes off or separates from the nail bed (usually,
only a part comes off and not the whole nail). In
severe cases, it changes the nail colour, turning
the nail plate dark green or black (Fig. 3.9).
• In feet, this occurs due to wearing tight shoes Fig. 3.9: Nail separation
(which cause shoe bites), poor blood circulation
and lack of foot care.
• Nails can be treated as long as there is no fungal
or bacterial infection. In case of severe separation,
no treatment must be carried out.
Ingrowing nails
This may affect either fingernails or toenails. In this
condition, the nail grows into the flesh on the sides and
may cause infection (Fig. 3.10). Excessive filing of nails Fig. 3.10: Ingrowing nail

in the corners or vigorous cutting causes this condition.


If the area is open or infection is present, nail service
must not be provided.
Split and brittle nails
• Split and brittle nails (Fig. 3.11) are, usually, the
result of using drying agents like those found in
harsh detergents, cleaners, paint strippers, etc.
Sometimes injury to the finger or diseases like
arthritis can also cause split nails.
• Manicure and pedicure increase blood circulation
in hands and legs, including nails. These help
in supplying more nutrients and oxygen to the
affected area, which aid in cell regeneration and Fig. 3.11: Brittle nails

gradual softening of tissues.


• As part of the service, one can use hydrating hot
oil or paraffin wax to hydrate the nail plate and
the surrounding skin.
Painful, red and swollen nail fold (paronychia)
This is caused due to infection in the nail fold, which
is the skin and the soft tissues that surround the nail
(Fig. 3.12).
Fig. 3.12: Painful, red and
swollen nails

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Identification of nail conditions

Weak nails
Weak nails are soft. They get split and peel off easily.
When they break, they tear and leave a jagged edge.
This, usually, happens when a person cleans dishes or
keeps one’s hands in water for a long time. The nails
absorb the water, thereby, expanding the nail bed. When
the water dries out, the nails contract. The constant
expanding and contracting eventually weakens the nails.

Brittle nails
Brittle nails snap and are hard to bend. They tend to
crack easily. A common reason for such a condition is
the lack of moisture in nails as opposed to weak nails
that have too much moisture content.

Ridged nails
Ridged nails are characterised by the appearance of
vertical and horizontal ridges in fingernails, which are
mainly due to nutritional deficiency (Fig. 3.13). Vertical
lines on nails are common. These often get severe with
Fig. 3.13: Ridged nails —
horizontal and vertical age as nails retain more moisture with aging. Horizontal
ridges are more likely to signal a problem. Beau’s lines
is a condition characterised by indentations across
the nail bed and is a sign of disrupted nail growth due
to illness.

Overgrown cuticles
Cuticles grow at a fast pace and may cover a major
portion of the nail, making it prone to bacterial
infections, hangnails, split cuticles and other problems.

Manicure procedure
Manicure consists of various procedures, such as filing
the nails, shaping the free edges, massaging the hands
and application of nail polish. The basic processes for
manicure and pedicure are the same. Before starting a
treatment, one must:
• ensure that the equipment to be used is sterilised,
and all material and products required in the
process are organised at an accessible place.

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• fill in the consultation form, check with a client
for contra-indications and discuss with a service
that meets the person’s needs.
• remove all jewellery of the client, including
watches, bangles and finger rings. These not only (a)
hinder the treatment process but can also cause
an injury to the client or the therapist offering the
service. Ask the client to keep these in a safe place.

Manicure steps
Step 1: During consultation, discuss the needs of (b)
the client and adapt the service to suit the person’s
conditions and expectations. Agree on the preferred
nail length and shape, and the type of nail polish
required. If the client has no contra-indication, start
the treatment.
Step 2: Request the client to choose the kind of manicure (c)

required — varnish dark, plain, frosted or French.


Recommend a suitable nail finish, which matches with
the client’s preference. Dark colours make the nails
appear shorter, so they are not suitable for short or
bitten nails.
(d)
Step 3: Remove the old nail paint first. Check the nails
for ridges and other problems. Examine the nail plate
in its natural condition after removing the nail polish.
Sanitise the hand to prevent cross-infection and do a
manual contra-indication check.
Step 4: If required, cut the nails to give them a shape (e)
as per the client’s preference. This should be done only
with sterilised scissors. The nail clippings need to be
collected in a tissue paper and disposed of appropriately.
Step 5: Now, file the nails using an emery board.
Step 6: Bevelling must be done after that. This seals
(f)
the free edge layers of the nails and helps in preventing
water loss and damage.
Step 7: Use an orange stick to decant, and then, apply
cuticle cream around the cuticles.
Step 8: Gently massage cream into the cuticles using
fingertips. This will help in softening the skin, making (g)
the removal of cuticles easier.

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Step 9: Test the temperature of the warm water placed
in a bowl for the comfort of the client. Now, soak the
hands of the client in the water. This will help in the
absorption of the cuticle cream, resulting in softening
(h) of the skin.
Step 10: Take out one hand from the water. Dab and
dry it thoroughly using a clean unused towel.
(i) Step 11: Now, use a cuticle remover and a cotton bud
to remove the cuticles. Cuticle remover is sharp, so one
must we careful while using it. Use it sparingly and do
not apply it on the surrounding skin.
Step 12: Remove excess cuticle from the nail plate. A
(j) cuticle knife might be needed to do this. The nail plate
needs to be kept flat and damp, so that there are no
scratches on the skin. The knife must also be kept flat
to avoid the cutting of cuticles. Cuticle nippers may
be used to trim the excess cuticle. Use a tissue paper
(k)
to dispose of the waste. Bevel again. This will give a
smooth finish to the free edges of the nails.
Step 13: Select a suitable medium for massage. To
(l)
begin with, massage the hand with light effleurage
movements. Support the hand and massage right up to
the elbow.
Step 14: One must apply circular thumb frictions as the
application helps to get rid of tension in the flexors and
(m) extensors of the forearm.
Step 15: Apply circular friction techniques over the back
of the hand.
Step 16: Support the hand, and give gentle circular
(n) manipulations to each finger and the thumb. This will
reduce tension in the knuckles. Do not pull the finger
or make the circles too big as this is not only ineffective
but may also worry some clients.
(o) Step 17: Clasp the client’s fingers between your fingers.
Now, pull and twist gently down the length of the finger
to stretch the tissues.

Applying nail polish


(p)
The following procedures are adopted for applying nail
Fig. 3.14 (a–p): Manicure steps
polish (Fig. 3.15 and 3.16).
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Step 1: Base coat application
Apply the base coat starting at the cuticle. Fan out the
brush over the nail as you brush towards the tip. Always
work from the left to the right direction of the nail.
Step 2: Choose the colour
The nail polish colour must be chosen, keeping in view
the client’s preference. However, a Beauty Therapist Fig. 3.15: Choose the nail
can make suggestions regarding the nail paint colour polish colour, keeping in view
the client’s taste
to be applied.
Step 3: Prep the brush
Dip the brush into the nail polish bottle. Drag it out
while wiping it on the rim of the bottle to remove excess
paint. Without re-dipping the brush, now wipe its other
side on the opposite side of the rim, letting the excess
paint flow back into the bottle. Press firmly so that the
brush slightly fans and the coating is evenly distributed.
Continue pulling the brush out of the bottle, while
wiping the paint coat off on the rim. The objective is that Fig. 3.16: Apply the nail
as the brush is pulled out, the paint coating is pushed polish step-by-step
towards the tip on one side of the brush, resulting in a
crescent shape.
Step 4: First coat
Starting at the cuticle, apply the nail polish with the
help of the brush on to the nail. Press downwards. This
will make the brush to fan out. Now, draw the brush to
the tip of the nail while applying downward pressure,
again moving from left to right to get an even coat.
Step 5: Sealing the tips
Once the first coat is applied, go back to the leftmost part
of the nail tip and drag the brush along the edge, while
gently pressing downward. This seals the paint on the
tip of the nail and the effect of manicure will be longer.
Step 6: Top coat
Do exactly what was done, while applying the base coat.

Nail shapes
Each person’s nail features are unique. Nails vary in
shapes and sizes. One will find people with long fingers
and wide nail beds or short fingers and short nail
beds, and other combinations. The five shapes that are
common and preferred by customers are — square,
round, oval, squoval and pointed.
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Natural Square Squoval Almond Oval Lipstick

Stiletto Mountain peak Edge Round Ballerina Wide


Fig. 3.17: Various nail shapes
Oval
Oval is an attractive nail shape and is preferred by many
women. Oval-shaped nails can be long to complement
a longer nail bed, or can be short to suit a shorter nail
bed. This shape retains the softer curves of the round
shape, while adding length to the nail at the same time.
How to file
• To achieve an oval shape, straighten the sidewalls
first and make sure they are even. This can be
done through filing.
• File in smooth, arching motions, starting at the
side of the nail moving towards the top, using a
nail file.
• Work on the angles from both the sides and
around the free edge to get the shape.
Square
Square nail is the classic acrylic shape — straight side
walls, sharp tips and a neat curve. But square nail is
not always the best choice for certain nail beds as a
sharp square shape can make the nail appear shorter
and stubbier. But for longer nail beds, square shape
can complement the nail and add length to the finger.
How to file
• To file into a classic square shape, a medium-
grade file (150 grit) should be used. This helps in
giving shape to the free edges and side walls.

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• Turn the hand around to straighten the free edges, Notes
noting that when looking at it, the file must be
perpendicular to the nail to achieve the shape.
• File a side wall straight up, and then, change the
angle to blend.
• Repeat this on the other side as well.
• Once both the sides are done, bevel the nail and
sharpen the corners.
Squoval
Squoval, as the name suggests, is a combination of
square and oval. Sometimes, called a conservative
square, it has the length of a square nail, but softer
edges of an oval. Squoval shape suits all nail types.
How to file
• To file a squoval nail, begin with making a square,
as is the practice for all shapes.
• This ensures that the side walls are straight.
• Once the side walls are straight, tilt the file
underneath the corners. Now, file back and forth
from downward to upward direction. This will
slowly wear the corners off.
Round
The round shape is frequently used to create a softer,
less noticeable look. In case, a customer has wide nail
beds and large hands, then round nails can give a
slender look to the hands.
How to file
• To get a round shape, file the side walls straight
out to make a square.
• Now, round out the edges with moderate angles
into a curved shape.
• Be careful not to take out too much off on each
side, else it will look imbalanced.
• The nail now needs to be slightly tapered and
extend just past the tip of the finger.
Pointed
Pointed nails are less common than other shapes. A
pointed nail can create length and make the hands
look slender. Smaller hands with smaller nail beds

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can use pointed nails to create length. If the nails have
long and slender nail beds, then pointed nails are more
noticeable.
How to file
• To achieve pointed nails, one tip to remember is
that the technique is based on the letter ‘I’ .
• The upper arch, from top to bottom, becomes the
centre of the ‘I’ shape that forms a line running
down the nail bed.
• The top of the ‘I’ is bending the cuticle flush
with the natural nail, and the bottom of the ‘I’ is
looking down the barrel of the nail to make sure
the C-curve is even.

Aftercare advice
To ensure that the effect of manicure lasts longer, follow
these guidelines.
• Give enough time to the nails to dry after manicure.
• While doing household works, such as gardening
or cleaning the dishes, wear waterproof gloves.
• Always dry the hands after washing them.
• Hand creams must be used regularly to keep the
skin soft and protected.
• Always apply base coat under the nail polish to
prevent staining.
• Apply top coat over the nail polish to prevent
chipping of the nail paint.
• Use an acetone-free nail polish remover.
• Never use metal files as these may damage the nails.
Fig. 3.18: Apply moisturiser to • Keep workable length of the nails as very long
keep the hands hydrated
nails cause problems and might get damaged.
• Use cuticle cream or oil the hands regularly to
moisturise dry cuticles (Fig. 3.18).
• Drink adequate water and eat well to maintain a
healthy skin and nail condition (Fig. 3.19).
• Do simple hand exercises to keep the joints supple
for smooth movements.
• Avoid using hard soaps and detergents for
washing hands.
• Avail manicure every 2 to 4 weeks for soft and
Fig. 3.19: Drink plenty of water
shiny hands.

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Notes

Activity 1
Identify the different equipment and material used in manicure.
Material required: chart paper, pictures of equipment and
material used in manicure, glue stick, pen, pencil and eraser

Procedure

• Collect pictures of equipment and material used in a


manicure procedure.
• Paste them on a chart paper.
• Identify and label the pictures.
• Present it before the class.

Activity 2
Role-play on manicure.
Material required: entire manicure set-up, notebook and pen

Procedure

• Form groups of three students each and take up the


character of a Beauty Therapist, Assistant Beauty
Therapist and client.
• Now, enact a scene where the Beauty Therapist prepares
the client for a manicure.
• Identify the products and tools to carry out the service,
and seat the client.
• Act as if the Beauty Therapist is demonstrating the
various techniques used in manicure service, such as
filing, buffing, application of cuticle cream, removal of
cuticle, cuticle pushing and polishing.

Check Your Progress


A. Multiple Choice Questions
1. __________ is a rare bleeding disorder, in which blood
does not clot normally.
(a) Onycholysis (b) Tineaunguiun
(c) Leukonyhia (d) Haemophilia
2. _________ is the swelling of one or more joints in the body.
(a) Onycholysis (b) Arthritis
(c) Leukonyhia (d) Tineaunguiun
3. ____________ are ridges in the nail caused by trauma,
age, injury or ill-health.
(a) Beau’s lines (b) Bruised nails
(c) Psoriasis (d) Furrows

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4. The main purpose of cuticle nipper is to ____________.
(a) remove hang nails and dead skin
(b) cut nails
(c) file nails
(d) removes toenails
5. Nail polish must be applied in ___________ stroke(s).
(a) one (b) two (c) three (d) five
6. ___________ is not a nail shape.
(a) oval (b) round
(c) squoval (d) cylindrical
7. Identify the nail shape.
(a) almond (b) square
(c) pointed (d) squoval

B. Fill in the Blanks


1. A ________ knife is used to push back the cuticles and
remove dead cells from the nail area.
2. A toenail clipper is used to cut and shorten the toenails
prior to ________.
3. A _________ stone is used for removing dead skin cells
from the feet.
4. Before applying the nail paint, one must check the nails
for ________ and other disorders.

What have you learnt?


After completing this Session, are you able to:

• identify the tools and material used in manicure.


• perform manicure service.

Session 3: Pedicure
Pedicure is a service aimed at improving the appearance
of the feet and toenails. Pedicure has many health
benefits, including prevention of nail diseases and
disorders, cosmetic and therapeutic benefits.
Pedicure involves working on toenails
and removing dead skin cells at the sole of
the feet using a rough stone called ‘pumice
stone’ and other implements. These days,
leg care below the knee is also included in
pedicure.
Leg care includes depilation (hair
removal) by shaving, waxing or some other
technique. This is followed by granular
Fig. 3.20: Pedicure procedure exfoliation, application of moisturising

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cream and ending the procedure with a leg massage. A Notes
monthly treatment helps keep the feet and toenails in
a healthy condition, although excessive hard skin may
need frequent pedicure sessions.
Purpose of pedicure
• To improve the appearance of feet and toenails
• To relax aching and tired feet
• To reduce hard skin at the sole of the feet
Pedicure includes
• Shaping the nails
• Cuticle treatment
• Removal of hard skin
• Specialised foot treatment
• Foot and leg massage
• Nail varnish application as required by a client
Most of the steps followed in manicure apply to
pedicure too. The major differences between the two are:
• positioning of the client
• treatment of hard skin
• treatment area
Contra-indications
Contra-indication is a condition that either prevents a
treatment or may restrict one. For example, a bruised
nail may restrict a treatment, while a bacterial or fungal
infection will prevent the treatment completely due to
the risk of cross-infection.
Contra-indications that prevent treatment
• Multiple warts
• Fungal infection(s)
• Bacterial infection(s)
Contra-indications that restrict treatment
• Bruised nail
• Cut and aberration on hand or fingers
Pedicure procedure
• Wash the hands (Fig. 3.21).
• Check with the client for contra-indications,
if any.
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Fig. 3.21: Wash the hands Fig. 3.22: Soak both the feet in Fig. 3.23: Remove old enamel
pedi antiseptic soaking solution from the toenails and examine
them for infections

• Soak both the feet of the client in a pedi antiseptic


soaking solution (Fig. 3.22).
• Dry both the feet and rest them on a
clean towel.
• Remove old enamel from the toenails and examine
them for infections (Fig. 3.23).
• Shorten or cut the nails using clippers, if required.
The nails must be cut straight across to avoid
ingrowing nails (Fig. 3.24).
Fig. 3.24: Shorten or cut the • File the nails of each foot using an emery board
nails using clippers
(Fig. 3.25).
• Apply cuticle cream and massage the nails, and
place the foot back into the soak. Repeat the steps
on the other foot as well.
• Use a callus file or scrub or an exfoliator on hard
skin of the sole (Fig. 3.26).
Fig. 3.25: File the nails using • Dry the foot. Pay attention to the area between
an emery board
the toes.
• Apply a cuticle remover, spread around the
cuticles and gently push back and lift the cuticle
off nails (Fig. 3.27). Light pressure must be applied
to avoid damaging rest of the nail and nail plate
[Fig. 3.28 (a) and (b)].
Fig. 3.26: Exfoliate and scrub
the foot

Fig. 3.27: Use a cuticle remover (a) (b)


to remove excess cuticle Fig. 3.28 (a) and (b) : Push back, lift and clean around the
cuticle and free edges

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Fig. 3.29: Scrub the nails Fig. 3.30: Separate the toes with Fig. 3.31: Apply base coat, nail
dividers and apply a nail paint paint and a top coat, if required

• Use a cuticle knife, dual tool or nippers, if


required. Repeat the process on the other foot
as well.
• Scrub the nails, clean, rinse and dry them
(Fig. 3.29).
• File rough edges on the nails.
• Massage the legs one-by-one.
• Squeak and clean the nail plate to ensure that all
grease is removed.
• Separate the toes with dividers or tissue papers
(Fig. 3.30).
• Choose a nail enamel colour and check its texture.
• Apply the base coat, nail enamel and top coat
(Fig. 3.30 and 3.31).
• Give home care advice to the client and suggest
the products that one may buy.
• Record details of the treatment.

Pedicure massage
Pedicure massage follows the movement of kneading,
tapping and solling (Fig. 3.32–3.36)
• Support the ankle with one hand and effleurage
(massage involving a repeated circular movement
made with the palm) six times up to the knee with
each hand separately. Cover the front, sides and
back of the lower leg.
• This must be followed by circular finger movement
kneading the knee. Kneading is a form of massage
used to treat the muscles, and reduce stiffness
and pain.
• Give palm kneading to the calf.
• Now, give circular thumb kneading to the front of
the leg from ankle to knee.
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Fig. 3.32: Pedicure massage Fig. 3.33: Massage the leg Fig. 3.34: Massage the leg
around the knee area around the calf area
• Effleurage the knee three times.
• Do circular finger movements and knead around
the ankle.
• Knead the Achilles tendon (back of the ankle)
six times.
• Give thumb frictions to the top of the foot from
toe to ankle.

(a) (b) Fig. 3.36: Give thumb frictions


Fig. 3.35 (a and b): Massage the foot using palm kneading technique to the foot
• Also, give deep palm stroking to dorsal (top) and
plantar (bottom) aspect of the foot (together).
• Give palm kneading to toes using both the hands
at the same time.
• Palm knead the sole six times.
• Give deep thumb frictions to the sole of the foot
(sawing action) from toe to heel and back.
• Give friction circles to each toe.
Fig. 3.37: Apply moisturising • Effleurage six times from foot to knee.
lotion daily on the feet to keep • Use firm pressure on the foot to prevent
them hydrated
over-sensitivity and ticklish sensation.

Aftercare advice
To ensure that the benefits of pedicure last longer, the
customer may be advised the following.

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• Apply moisturising lotion daily on the feet after Notes
bathing (Fig. 3.37).
• Dry the feet thoroughly after washing, especially
the area between the toes.
• Regularly apply talc or special foot powder between
the toes as it helps to absorb the moisture.
• Use creams, sprays and oils to keep the feet fresh
during the day. Those with peppermint and citrus
oils are particularly useful.
• Regularly, use a cuticle cream or oil to massage
the cuticles.
• Use non-acetone varnish remover only.
• Apply creams regularly to moisturise the nails,
especially, after removing the nail polish as most
nail polish removers contain chemicals that
dehydrate the nails.

Activity
Identify contra-indications.
Material required: notebook and pen
Procedure

• Identify nail condition (texture, diseases, etc.,) in a


volunteer’s foot.
• Identify the contra-indications that may restrict a
pedicure service.
• Make a note of your observations.

Check Your Progress


A. Multiple Choice Questions
1. Pedicure includes shaping of the nails and __________.
(a) cuticle treatment
(b) treating multiple warts
(c) treating fungal infections
(d) treating bacterial infections
2. Contra-indications that prevent treatment are __________.
(a) multiple warts
(b) fungal infections
(c) bacterial infections
(d) All of the above

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3. An __________ is used for filing the nails.
(a) clippers
(b) emery board
(c) cuticle remover
(d) orange stick
4. ___________ is a form of massage used to treat muscles,
and reduce stiffness and pain.
(a) Curette
(b) Kneading
(c) Tapping
(d) Solling

C. Subjective Questions
1. What is an emery board?
2. When is the base coat applied on a nail?

What have you learnt?


After completing this Session, are you able to:

• describe the contra-indications that may restrict a


pedicure service.
• demonstrate the procedure of pedicure.

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Beauty Therapist-Class 11- Unit 3 Session 1

Beauty Therapist-Class 11- Unit 3 Session 2


Beauty Therapist-Class 11- Unit 3 Session 3
Depilation
4
Services

We have already studied about hair discolouration


technique, such as ‘bleaching’. In this Unit, we will
study about two techniques of removing unwanted hair.
The two techniques that are commonly used to remove
unwanted hair are waxing and threading.

Types of Hair
A Beauty Therapist, providing treatment such as
‘waxing’ and ‘threading’, must understand the basic
anatomy and physiology of hair. The different types of
hair are as follows:
• Scalp hair
• Eyelashes
• Body hair
• Underarm and pubic hair
Scalp hair: It acts as heat insulator and protects
the head.
Eyelashes: This is the hair present on the eyelashes. It
prevents dust particles from entering the eye.
Body hair: Present all over the body, it acts as heat
insulator.
Underarm and pubic hair: It provides cushion against
friction caused by movement.
Hair Growth Cycle
On an average, hair grows 1.25 cm (½ inch) per month.
It is estimated that we lose 80–100 hair per day on
an average. A single strand of hair does not grow
continuously throughout life. The stages of the life cycle
of hair are as follows:
• Anagen
• Catagen
• Telogen
• Exogen

Hair to
fall out

Dermal
papilla
New hair
Anagen Catagen Telogen Return to anagen Early anagen

Fig. 4.1: Hair growth cycle

Anagen
During this stage, the bulb regenerates, and then,
produces a hair strand. This is the stage during which
the hair follicle is active and the hair grows continuously.
The stage lasts for 2–7 years. New hair in the early
anagen stage grows faster than the old hair. The average
growth being 1.25 cm per month.

Catagen
The next stage of the hair growth cycle is called ‘catagen’.
This is the transitional phase, which lasts for 2–3
weeks. During this cycle, the hair follicle undergoes a
phase of change and the hair does not grow. New cells
are formed. Here, the follicles retract and start their
upward migration.

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Telogen
This is the resulting phase, where the hair no longer
grows but is attached to the follicle. This stage lasts
for about 3−4 months. After about three months, there
is hair fall when the hair is washed or combed. After
this, the follicle can again start the anagen phase.
Thus, each hair follicle produces a new strand and
passes through 25–30 cycles of production in our entire
lifetime. Approximately, 13 per cent of the follicles are
in the telogen stage at a time.

Exogen
After the resting period, follicles begin to grow. When the
follicle reaches its full length, new hair starts growing.

Session 1: Waxing
Waxing is a temporary hair removal
technique, wherein warm or cold wax is used
to remove hair from the desired area. The
wax is applied directly to the skin and then
pulled back. The unwanted hair is pulled out
along with the wax. Most popular areas for
waxing are eyebrows, upper lip, pubic area,
back, arms, legs and underarms. However,
any area on the body can be waxed. Fig. 4.2: Waxing of the arm

Benefits
Waxing has several benefits compared to other hair
removal techniques. It is an effective method to remove
large amount of unwanted hair at one go. Hair growth
in waxed areas does not happen for 2–8 weeks. When
hair is shaved or removed using a depilatory cream,
the hair is removed at the surface rather than the root,
and within few days, the hair is visible on the surface.
With these methods, hair tends to grow back in rough
stubble form. Areas that are repeatedly waxed over long
periods of time often exhibit re-growth that is softer.

Drawback
Waxing, however, has several drawbacks. It can be
painful when the strip is put on the area where wax

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Fig. 4.3: Common areas on human body having hair

has been applied and pulled back. Though the pain is


not lasting, it can be intense, particularly, in sensitive
areas. Another drawback is the expenses involved.
The cost of waxing, which is performed by a licensed
aesthetician or beautician, can be high, depending on
the area to be waxed and the number of sittings. Another
drawback is that some people experience ingrown hair,
red bumps and minor bleeding during waxing. This is
likely to occur when areas having thick and dense hair
are waxed, especially, the first few times when follicles
are the hardest. While, usually, impossible to eliminate,
ingrown hair can be reduced by regular exfoliating
and applying an astringent or a solution of astringent
and oil.

Working area preparation


Working area preparation plays a vital role in any
treatment. A Beauty Therapist is required to set the
treatment area as per organisational standards. This
will help in providing effective service. These guidelines
must be adhered to while preparing the working area.
• Cover the couch with a disposable sheet or paper
to avoid spillage on the couch.
• To dispose of general and waxing waste, use two
separate bins with inner lining.
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• Place the bins behind or under the couch. Notes
• Select suitable heating unit as per the type of
wax selected.
• Make sure that an antiseptic is available.
• Wear disposable gloves to prevent infections.
• Use only recommended applicator or disposable
wooden spatula.
• Place cotton wool, tissues and jewellery bowl for
the client.
• Sterilise scissors, tweezers and other equipment
that are to be used in the procedure.
• Ensure availability of aftercare leaflets that need
to be given to the client.

Preparing the client


Follow these procedures while preparing the client for
waxing procedure.
• Provide a thorough consultation, explaining the
procedure, aftercare precautions to be taken and
the time required for the procedure.
• Ensure that the consultation and service are
provided in a private room.
• Make the client feel comfortable.
• Encourage the client to ask questions without
hesitation.
• Before starting the procedure, position the client
comfortably, depending on the area to be waxed.
Take into account the person’s mobility, comfort
and privacy.
• Protect the client’s clothes with towels and
disposable sheet or clothing.
• Remove all jewellery from the area to be waxed.

Contra-indications
Before starting the treatment, we must make sure
that the area where waxing has to be done is free from
contra-indications. Some of the contra-indications are:
• Recent scar tissue
• Hypersensitive skin
• Cuts or abrasions
• Bruise in or around the area to be waxed
• Allergy to any product a therapist may be using
(like rosin found in sticking plasters and wax)

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Notes • Blood diseases (HIV, hepatitis)
• Use of skin-thinning drugs
• Diabetes
• Poor blood circulation
• Inflamed or aggravated skin

Precautions to be taken before waxing


The Beauty Therapist must inform the client to take the
following precautions before waxing at least two days
prior to the procedure.
• Do not apply body lotion, baby or body oil on the
area where waxing is to be done.
• Do not take bubble bath.
• Do not shave the hair of the area where waxing is
to be done at least three days before the procedure.
• When waxing eyebrows, apply eye pads to protect
the eyes and petroleum jelly to control the amount
of hair being removed.

Material required
The following tools, equipment and material are needed
for waxing.
• Heating unit
• Wax
• Waxing strips — muslin and fibre
• Apron for the therapist
• Disposable gloves
• Plastic and paper sheet (to cover the couch and
surrounding area)
• Disposable clothing or apron for the client
• Antiseptic lotion (to clean and remove oil from the
client’s skin)
• Purified, non-perfumed powder (to dry the skin
and hair)
• Cotton wool (for applying products)
• Scissors (to cut long hair or strips)
• Tweezers (for removal of stray hair)
• Spatulas (to apply the wax)
• Tissues
• Soothing lotion
• Barrier cream
• Orange stick

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• Two bins with liners Notes
• Pillow
• After sugaring lotion
• Cleanser
• Towels
• Jewellery bowl
Conducting skin sensitivity test
It is mandatory to conduct a skin sensitivity test before
proceeding with the waxing. Obtain written permission
from the client before starting the procedure. Follow these
guidelines while conducting the skin sensitivity test.
• Analyse the skin condition by performing a
skin sensitivity or patch test. The test must be
performed on the forearm as it, generally, does
not have hair and is dry.
• Perform the test at least 24 hours before the
actual procedure.
• Record the observations on a client record card.
• Check if the temperature of the wax is apt by
applying it on to the client’s forearm.
• Observe for reactions on the client’s skin after the
wax is removed.
• Ask the client to inform about redness, swelling
or irritation for the next 24–48 hours.
• In case there is a reaction, suggest that this
treatment is not suitable for the client.
Waxing procedure
Step 1: Make the client feel comfortable.
Step 2: Choose the most appropriate pre-wax application
product.
Step 3: Identify the area to be waxed.
Step 4: Heat wax in a heating unit until it melts.
Step 5: Dust the area with powder before applying the
wax. Baby powder or corn starch will absorb body oils
and moisture, allowing the wax to stick to the hair (not
the skin), making the procedure less painful.
Step 6: Test the temperature of the wax by applying it on
your wrist.
Step 7: Apply the warm wax on the skin with a small
wooden spatula. Check the length of the hair that has
to be removed. The length of the hair must be 1/8 to
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1/4 inch (3 to 6 mm). If the hair is too short, then the
wax will not be able to pull out the hair from the root.
If the hair is too long, significant discomfort might be
experienced by the client.
Step 8: Take a strip of cloth, place it on to the wax and
press it gently in the direction of hair growth.
Step 9: Once the wax has cooled and slightly hardened,
pull the wax strip in direction opposite to that of the hair
growth. Hold or stretch the skin tightly while pulling the
strip. Do this quickly. Do not pull it off at a 90° angle
but at a shallower angle.
Step 10: Once the strip is removed, hand pressure can
be applied to the area where waxing has been done to
minimise discomfort.
Step 11: Remove stray hair with tweezers.
Step 12: Request the client to check the waxed area in
a mirror.
Step 13: Apply after-wax lotion on the body part where
waxing has been done.
Step 14: Brief aftercare advice to the client.

(a) (b) (c)

(d) (e) (f)

Fig. 4.4 (a–f): Waxing procedure

Types of waxing
There are two types of waxing — hot and cold.
Hot waxing
This is the most common type of waxing
offered by salons. It involves heating up of
the wax and applying it on the body part
where the unwanted hair is to be waxed. The
wax sets on the skin. In this method, either
Fig. 4.5: Hot wax a strip of paper or cloth is gently put over the

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wax and is pulled off in the direction opposite
to the hair growth pattern, removing the hair.
In other cases, a strip of paper or cloth is not
put on the wax and it is pulled off from the
skin after it cools off and solidifies.
Types of hot waxing

Soft waxing
It is also known as ‘strip waxing’ and includes Fig. 4.6: Strip or soft waxing
spreading a thin layer of hot wax on to the
skin. A strip of paper or cloth is put on the
wax and pulled off in the direction opposite to
the hair growth pattern, taking the hair along
with it. It is mostly used on larger areas like
arms and legs.
Hard waxing
It is used in smaller and sensitive areas like
upper lip, underarms and pubic area. In this
method, warm wax is applied directly on the Fig. 4.7: Using hard wax on the upper lip
skin, and given some time to cool and solidify.
It is, then, pulled in the direction opposite to
that of hair growth, pulling out the unwanted
hair. It does not harm the skin as this type of
wax only binds to the hair and not to the skin.
Fruit waxing
It is similar to hard waxing and mostly
recommended for sensitive skin. This type of
wax is beneficial for the skin as it is rich in
anti-oxidants and vitamins because of fruit
Fig. 4.8: Chocolate waxing of the leg
ingredients present in it, such as berries, plum,
etc. It is gentle on the skin, and hence, costlier.
Chocolate waxing
It is rich in antioxidants due to the presence of
chocolate in it. It also nourishes the skin as it
contains glycerin, and oils like almonds, soya
bean, etc. It does not lead to inflammation or
redness and is gentle on the skin. It is costlier.
Sugar waxing
It is a mixture of sugar, lemon and hot water.
Fig. 4.9: Sugar waxing of the leg
It pulls the hair in the same way as other types

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of wax but is made up of natural ingredients.
It only sticks to the hair and not to the skin,
and hence, can be used multiple times without
causing any redness or injury.
Cold waxing
Cold waxing is similar to hot waxing, except
that it comes in the form of readymade wax
strips. Cold wax does not require heating. The
strips are rubbed between the palms and the
wax is warmed by the body temperature. The
two strips are pulled apart and applied on to
the skin. Then, the strip is pulled off, removing
the hair. It is not as messy as hot wax.
Fig. 4.10: Cold waxing
Facial waxing
This procedure makes the face smooth and
free of hair. It is a convenient and easy method,
which removes hair from the roots. The new
hair takes 2–3 weeks to grow. However, care
must be taken as facial waxing may sometimes
lead to infections and blemishes.
Benefits
(a) • It is beneficial for people with prominent
facial hair as bleaching gives a golden
look to the face.
• Shaving leads to the growth of stubble,
which is hard. Besides, the hair growth
is faster in shaving, whereas, waxing
removes the hair from the root and the
new growth is smooth.
• The hairless effect lasts for two or more
weeks, depending on the hair growth
(b) pattern of a person.
Fig. 4.11 (a and b): Using cold wax strips
• Waxing acts on hair follicles and leads to
to remove facial hair reduction in the growth of hair overtime.
• It is cheaper than laser treatment.
• It has an exfoliating effect as it
removes dead skin cells along with the
unwanted hair.
• It works on all skin types, and is equally
effective on both fine and coarse hair.

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Depilatory
Shaving cream Waxing Epilator Laser

1–3 days 3–7 days 2–4 weeks 2–4 weeks Forever

Fig. 4.12: Different methods of hair removal

Drawbacks
• It is painful as it is done on the face, which has
sensitive and delicate skin.
• It leads to redness as an immediate effect but it
reduces after a short while.
• It can lead to ingrown hair if not done correctly.
• It can lead to infections, irritation, burns or
allergic reactions, if done incorrectly.
Limitations
• It can be done only over a suitable length of hair
(at least 1 cm long).
• It cannot be done on moisturised skin.
• No oil or lotion must be applied on the face on the
day of waxing.
• It must not be done over cuts, wound pimples
or acnes.
Alternative hair removal procedures
Wet shaving Fig. 4.13: Wet shaving

Razor blade is used to remove unwanted facial hair after


lathering it with a shaving gel. It is a quick and safe hair
removal technique and can be done daily. It is painless,
inexpensive and has an exfoliating effect. It might lead
to hard hair growth.
Electric or dry shaving
It is done by using an electric razor, which is glided over
the skin. It traps the unwanted hair, which are cut by
a moving blade underneath the razor. It is less messy
Fig. 4.14: Electric or dry shaving
and can be done anywhere anytime. Electric razors are
expensive and need regular charging.
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Depilatory compounds
These are available in the form of cream, lotion,
gel, foam, etc. They are to be applied for 3–10
minutes. They soften the hair at the surface of the
skin. The hair is, then, removed with the help of a
cloth or a plastic spatula. Depilation is followed by
washing the skin with water. The new growth is
round-edged and soft. It does not lead to any cut or
scratches on the skin. However, some lotions have
Fig. 4.15: Depilatory cream
an unpleasant smell and may cause skin irritation
or allergy.

Epilator
It is like an electric razor but does not cut the hair
rather pulls them out of the follicles. It has a lasting
effect and the new growth is finer. The hair removal
process is time-consuming as an epilator cannot pull
a large amount of hair at once. The hair must be a
little longer so that an epilator is able to pull them
Fig. 4.16: Using an epilator
out. It is expensive than other methods.
for hair removal
Laser
The hair follicles are targeted by a laser that passes
a pulsating light beam through the skin. Primarily,
the pigment at the base of the follicle, i.e., ‘melanin’
gets targeted by intense heat from the laser and
prevents hair growth. However, it is not a permanent
solution and leads only to hair reduction. Also, there
are risks of blistering, scarring or change in the
skin colour. However, these are rare. Professional
Fig. 4.17: Laser procedure for
hair reduction treatments can be painful but specialists may apply
a topical anesthetic.

Tweezing
Using tweezers does not require any professional
training. It helps pull out the hair from the root.
It can only be used in case of less or random hair
growth. However, the procedure will be difficult and
Fig. 4.18: Tweezing for facial
time-consuming in case of removing hair from an
hair removal area having dense growth.

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Abrasive mitts
An abrasive mitt is coated with a rough or
smooth surface that is used to buff away the
hair but the skin must be dry. This method
uses friction to remove facial hair. It is an
inexpensive, fast and painless procedure. It
has an exfoliating effect on the skin. But the
procedure is required to be repeated every
2–3 days. It can cause irritation if too much
pressure is applied.
Fig. 4.19: Abrasive mitts for facial
Intensive pulse light hair removal

It is a light therapy, wherein multiple


wavelengths are used that scatter within the
skin, targeting the pigment. This leads to
destruction of the growing cells that make the
hair. It is slightly different from laser, which
uses only one specific wavelength. Intensive
pulse light is cheaper and less effective as
compared to laser.
Electrolysis
It uses a fine needle to transmit mild current Fig. 4.20: Intensive pulse light for
in the hair follicle to destroy it. It is the facial hair removal

only method that can be called permanent.


It is painful and may lead to red patches
or small scars that, usually, heal. Usually,
4–6 sittings, spanning over months, are
considered necessary for the procedure but it
may be increased, depending on the amount
of hair. It is a time-consuming and costly
procedure, and must be performed only by a
certified electrologist.
Fig. 4.21: Electrolysis procedure
Bikini wax for hair removal
It refers to waxing of the pubic hair using hot
or cold wax. It can be full or as per the client’s
preference. In simple bikini waxing, hair on the
sides and top are waxed. In Brazilian waxing,
the client can opt for a small patch shape. Both
men and women go for this service. In case, hot

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Notes wax is used, a strip is put on the wax that is applied on the
skin and is pulled off along with the hair in the direction
opposite to the hair growth.
Points to remember
• Before starting the treatment, talk about the
procedure with the client. Some clients might be
first-timers, so they may need extra care.
• Warn the client that the waxing must not be
conducted during or around the monthly cycle as
the skin is very sensitive in the week before and
during periods.
• Ask the client for contra-indications or allergies,
if any.
• Perform a patch test to check for the suitability of
the wax on the client.
• Prepare the client for the procedure.
• Offer disposable or salon garments to the client in
order to carry out the procedure.
• Ask the client to remove the undergarment.
• Ensure that the client is positioned correctly and
comfortably.
• Select tools and material as per organisational
standards, client preference and procedural
requirements.
• Give clear instructions to the client on how and
when to stretch the skin during the procedure.
• First, trim the long hair using a pair of scissors.
• Select and apply wax as per the client’s hair
growth pattern.
• Check the temperature of the wax as pubic skin
is sensitive. The wax must not be too hot and just
warm enough for easy application.
• After the service, ask the client for feedback.
Procedure
• If it is a first-timer or someone getting the waxing
done after a long gap, then trim the long hair first
with the help of a pair of scissors.
• Conduct a patch test on the upper thigh to check
for allergies or abrasions.
• Apply antiseptic cleaner and powder on the area
prior to waxing.

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• Work in sections. Start with the inner thighs.
• For hard waxing, apply a thick layer. Each smear
must be about an inch wide and up to three
inches long.
• The wax must always be applied in the direction
of the hair growth.
• Let the wax sit for about 30 seconds to harden a bit.
• Pull the section off in the direction opposite to the
hair growth. Stretch the skin beneath the section
while pulling away to lessen the pain or ask the
client to stretch it.
• Tweeze away stray hair.
• Apply a lotion to soothe the area.
• Provide aftercare advice to the client. Ask the
client to avoid hard soaps to wash the area as it
might lead to irritation or itching.
Client record card
A Beauty Therapist is supposed to note down all details
of the client as per the standard format in a client record
card. Note down if the client has any contra-indication
or is allergic to some product. Also, jot down the client’s
preference for products. The client’s record card must
contain complete information of the client.

(a) (b)
Fig. 4.22 (a and b): Aftercare tweezing and moisturising

Aftercare advice
Provide these advice to the client after the procedure.
• Wash the hands, and then, apply an antiseptic
cream or lotion on the treated skin for soothing
it. Avoid touching the area with unclean hands.
• Avoid using deodorant, perfume or powder on the
treated area.
• Avoid taking hot or bubble shower for at least
48 hours as it can cause irritation.

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Notes • Avoid going to the gym or doing any kind of
workout or play an outdoor game for 48 hours as
it can increase perspiration in the waxed area.
• Also, avoid exfoliating the area, swimming or
sunbathing for at least 48 hours post-wax.
• Wear clean cotton clothes to avoid irritation.
• Avoid wearing tight fitting clother as they can trap
bacteria close to the skin and cause infections .

Disposing of the waste


Waste resulting from the waxing procedure must be
considered as ‘contaminated’. Certain guidelines must
be followed to dispose of the waste.
• Used wax strips must be dumped into bins.
• Dump all waste collected in small lined bins into
larger lined clinical waste bins.
• Use industrial gloves to dispose of the
clinical waste.

Activity
Perform waxing of the arm.
Material required: heating unit, wax, disposable cloth or apron,
cotton strips, tweezers, spatula, powder, cotton, antiseptic
lotion, disposable gloves, waste bin, towel and jewellery bowl

Procedure

• Make the client feel comfortable.


• Choose an appropriate pre–wax application product.
• Identify the area to be waxed.
• Heat wax in a wax heating unit until it melts.
• Test the temperature of the wax by applying a small
portion on to your wrist.
• Dust the area to be waxed with powder before applying
the wax. Baby powder or corn starch can also be used
as they absorb body oil and moisture, allowing the wax
to stick to the hair (not the skin), making the process
less painful.
• Check the length of the hair that is to be removed.
The hair must ideally be between 1/4 and 1/8 inch
(3 and 6 mm) in length.
• Apply warm wax on to the skin with a wooden spatula.

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Notes
• Gently press the strip on to the area where wax has been
applied. Smoothen the wax strip in the direction of hair
growth. Allow the wax to cool.
• Once the wax has cooled and slightly hardened, pull the
wax strip in the direction opposite to that of the hair
growth. While pulling the strip, hold the skin taut and
pull the strip from underneath its edge. Do this quickly.
Do not pull it off at a 90° angle but at a shallower angle.
• Once the strip has been removed, hand pressure must be
given on the waxed area to minimise discomfort.

Check Your Progress


A. Fill in the Blanks
1. A single hair is referred to as a hair ___________.
2. A hair consists of cuticle, ________ and medulla.
3. The most common treatment for removing body hair
is _________.
4. To remove hair on large areas like arms and legs,
_________ waxing is done.
5. A skin sensitivity test must be conducted ___________
before waxing.

B. State True or False


1. Telogen is the first stage of hair growth cycle.
2. Hair follicle undergoes a period of change in the
catagen stage.
3. The rest period for hair follicles is called telogen.
C. Subjective Questions
1. What do you understand by waxing? Describe its types.
2. List the different types of hair.
3. Name the stages of hair growth cycle.
4. List any five equipment required for waxing.
5. How will you conduct a skin sensitivity test?
6. State the precautions to be taken by the client
before waxing.
7. What advice must be given to the client after waxing?

D. Arrange the waxing sequence

S.No Write the correct


sequence
1. Make the client feel
comfortable.
2. Apply and remove the hair in
small sections.

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3. Ensure that you have lifted
the hair from the skin
completely and they have
stuck to the wax strip.
4. Test the temperature of
the wax by applying it on
your wrist.
5. Choose most appropriate
pre–wax application product.
6. Identify the area to be
waxed.
7. Apply a thick coat of the wax
on a small area with the help
of a thick rim.

What have you learned?


After completing this Session, are you able to:

• identify equipment and products required for waxing.


• prepare the working area for waxing.
• conduct a skin sensitivity test.
• perform waxing.

Session 2: Threading
Threading is the most common method of removing
facial hair. Threading of eyebrows, forehead and above
the upper lip is the most common but it can be done
on other areas of the face as well. Like other depilation
procedures, threading can sometimes cause redness
and rashes.
Benefits
• Threading is suitable for smaller areas like
forehead, eyebrows, above the upper lip, chin and
other areas on the face.
• Threading is, generally, done to give shape to
the eyebrows.
• It is less time-consuming than waxing.
• New hair growth after threading is finer as
compared to the one after waxing
• It is suitable for almost all skin types.
Fig. 4.23: Threading for shaping • No chemical is used in threading.
the eyebrows • Hair growth is slow after threading.

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Limitations
• The effect of threading lasts for 1–2 weeks so the
procedure has to be done at frequent intervals.
• On sensitive skin, there can be redness or rashes.
• Avoid threading on areas with eruptions like
pimples or acne.

Material required
• Thread (24–30 inches long)
• Eyebrow brush (to brush the eyebrow hair)
• Scissors (for trimming the eyebrows)
• Tweezers (for finishing and pulling out stray hair)
• Cotton
• Powder

Preparing the client


• Seat the client comfortably.
• Wash your hands and dry them with a clean towel.
• Slightly dust the area where threading is to be
done with powder.

Threading technique
A cotton thread of 0.3–0.5 mm width is required for
threading. The length of the thread must be between
24 and 30 inches. A beginner is required to use shorter
length of thread for practising. An expert can use a
longer thread. Threading is mostly done on the forehead,
eyebrows, upper lip, other areas on the face and chin.

Twist snags hair outh


he m
n e n d in t
pe
the o
Place

(a)
Twist snags hair

Knot

(b)

Fig. 4.24 (a and b): Method for holding the thread for carrying out threading

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Procedure of eyebrow threading
Step 1: Knot the ends of the thread together forming
a loop.
Step 2: Place the forefinger, middle finger and thumbs
through each end of the loop in a ‘cat’s cradle’.
Step 3: Twist the loop at one end approximately a
dozen times.
Step 4: Coax the twist into the centre of the loop, making
sure that the knot is at one end near the finger, so that
it does not interfere with the twisting.
Step 5: To start threading, place the upper end of the
twisted thread under the unwanted hair, so that they
hang over it. Spread the lower finger to manipulate
the twist in an upward direction, thus, entrapping and
snagging the unwanted hair and plucking them out.
Step 6: Move the twisted thread towards the lower finger
by spreading the upper finger and dropping some of the
plucked hair.
Step 7: Now, focus on another area.
Step 8: The fingers of a Beauty Therapist must move
quickly, at the rate of one movement every 1/4 seconds.
As the twist becomes congested with hair, the rapid
movement of the twisting is inhibited. So twist a new
part of the loop or use a new thread.
Step 9: Once the service is complete, apply a soothing
lotion or solution on the area where threading has been
done. A zinc ointment or ice can also be applied to soothe
the skin.

Procedure for upper lip threading


Step 1: Use cotton thread, which is about 2 feet long
and 0.3–0.5 mm wide. Ensure that the thread is strong
enough and does not snap easily.
Step 2: Hold one end of the thread in the mouth and the
other in the hand.
Step 3: Wind the thread at the centre around 10 times.
Step 4: To remove oiliness, apply talcum powder above
the upper lip.
Step 5: Place the thread above the upper lip of the client.
Fig. 4.25: Threading of the Step 6: Ask the client to place the tongue under the upper
upper lip lip in order to tighten the skin. With hand movement,
shift the wound-up portion to the other side, ensuring
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that it holds the hair while moving forward. The hair
will be lifted from the root and plucked out
as it moves back and forth. Straight
Step 7: After threading above the upper lip
is done, massage the area with a lotion or Curved
apply astringent.
High arch
Eyebrow shapes according to
face shapes S-shaped
There are six basic face shapes. Some of
Upward
the eyebrow shapes that suit each of the
six face shapes are as follows. Soft arch

Oval face Fig. 4.26: Basic eyebrow shapes


This is considered as an ideal face shape
because it appears to be proportionate. Every eyebrow
shape suits this face shape. Mostly soft-angled eyebrow
shape is created to accentuate the look.
Round face
This face shape lacks angles. Hence, the eyebrow shape
should, normally, be arched to divert the attention of
people from the width of the face and make it appear Fig. 4.27: Oval-shaped face
longer. Rounded brows should, normally, be avoided.
Square face
This face shape has angles. Hence, it must be softened
with strong brows. The jawline can be balanced with a
thick eyebrow, which has a sharp peak at the top of the
brow making it angular.
Long face
The goal is to make the face appear shorter. So, Fig. 4.28: Round-shaped face
horizontal flat brows can accomplish this task and
make the face look balanced.

Fig. 4.29: Square-shaped Fig. 4.30: Long-shaped Fig. 4.31: Heart-shaped Fig. 4.32: Diamond-shaped
face face face face

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Heart face
This shape is wider at the forehead and tapers at the
cheeks followed by a pointed chin. To balance the
forehead and the chin, round brows with softer peaks
work the best, and accentuate the face shape.

Diamond face
This face shape is angular, being the widest at the
cheekbones and narrower at the forehead, as well as,
the jaw line. Curved or round brows can make the face
appear less angular. Centre arched eyebrows will make
it appear less widened.

Facial hair removal techniques for men


For long, hair removal and beauty treatments have
been considered a thing for women. But nowadays,
men are also opting for various beauty treatments. They
go for facial waxing, shaping the eyebrows, removing
uni-brow look, cleaning the area around their ears and
back of the neck, etc. They also go for beard shaping,
trimming, shaving, shaping of temple hair, etc. The
facial hair removal procedures listed for women are
also available for men. Men also go for threading of
the eyebrows, which is painful and time-consuming
as compared to waxing, as men have coarse hair.
Besides, hair growth in the eyebrows in men is
more as compared to women. The latest trend is of
using hard wax.

Shaping the beard


(a)
This is done by trimming excess or long hair and
defining the edges of the beard. Electric razors,
scissors or epilators can be used for trimming. To
remove stray and random hair, threading or hard
wax can be applied. This gives a longer hair-free
look and tends the growth of finer hair.

Nose hair removal


This is a difficult process, wherein a scissor or a
(b)
razor is, normally, used. But waxing is a convenient
Fig. 4.33 (a and b): Shaping the beard and effective method for removing nose hair. Small

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Fig. 4.34: Nose hair removal Fig. 4.35: Ear hair removal

amount of wax is put at the opening of the nostril with


the help of a stick. It allowed to cool and solidify, and
then, pulled back taking along the nose hair.

Ear hair removal


Hard wax is put on the ear and allowed to cool and
solidify. It is then pulled back. It is difficult to remove
ear hair with a razor or trimmer as the hair in this area
is fine and there is no flat surface to shave. Wax can be
applied on curves of the ear and pulled back to remove
the hair. Threading can also be done if there is less hair.

Activity
Perform threading of the upper lip.
Material required: cotton thread, talcum powder, lotion or
astringent, scissors, tweezers

Procedure

• Use a 0.3–0.5 mm wide cotton thread about 2 feet long.


• Ensure that the thread is strong enough and does not
snap easily.
• Hold one end of the thread in the mouth and the other
in the hand.
• Wind the thread at the centre around 10 times.
• To remove oiliness, apply talcum powder on the
upper lip.
• Place the thread on the upper lip of the client.
• Ask the client to place the tongue under the lip in order
to tighten the skin on the lip.

Depilation Services
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Notes
• With the hand movement, shift the wound-up portion to
the other side making sure that it holds the hair while
moving forward. The hair will be lifted from the root and
plucked out as it moves back and forth.
• After threading on the upper lip is done, massage the
area with a lotion or apply astringent to avoid itching or
irritation.

Check Your Progress


A. Fill in the Blanks
1. A ___________ is required for threading.
2. A ___________-shaped face lacks angles, hence, the
eyebrow shape should be arched.
3. A ___________-shaped shape is wider at the forehead and
tapers at the cheeks followed by a pointed chin.
4. Electric razors and ___________ can be used for trimming
the beard.
5. A convenient and effective method for removing nose
___________ is waxing.

B. State True or False


1. Threading is the most common method of removing
facial hair.
2. The length of the thread used for threading must be
between 24 and 30 inches. 
3. Polyster thread can be used for threading.
4. Diamond face tapers at the cheeks.

C. Arrange the upper lip threading sequence

S. No. Write the correct


sequence
1. Place the thread on the upper
lip of the client.
2. Use a cotton thread, which is
about 2 feet long.
3. Ensure that the thread is
strong enough and does not
snap easily.
4. After threading on the upper lip
is done, massage the area with
a lotion or apply astringent.

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Notes
5. With your hand movement,
shift the wound-up portion of
the thread to the other side,
making sure that it holds the
hair while moving forward. The
hair will be lifted from the root
and plucked out as it moves
back and forth.
6. Hold one end of thread in
the mouth and the other in
the hand.
7. Wind the thread at the centre
around 10 times.
8. To remove oiliness, apply
talcum powder or corn starch
on the upper lip.
9. Ask the client to place the
tongue under the upper lip in
order to tighten the skin.

D. Subjective Questions
1. Describe the benefits of threading.
2. Write any three precautions that need to be taken while
performing threading.

What have you learned?


After completing this Session, are you able to:

• explain the necessity of threading.


• list the benefits of threading.
• perform threading of the eyebrows and upper lip.

Depilation Services
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Beauty Therapist-Class 11- Unit 4 Session 1
Beauty Therapist-Class 11- Unit 4 Session 2
Glossary
Abductors: Muscles that separate fingers and toes.
Acetone: A chemical used to remove nail varnish.
Acid mantle: An acid barrier of the skin that prevents infections
and loss of moisture.
Adductors: Muscles that draw fingers and toes together.
Alkalinity: It refers to the capability of water to neutralise acid.
Allergic or sensitive skin: A skin becomes allergic or sensitive
when it comes in contact with an allergin, resulting in rashes
inflammation.
Anatomy: The branch of science that deals with the structure of
human and animal body the relationship of various body parts with
each other.
Antiseptic: A solution that prevents wounds from becoming septic
Appendage: An attachment.
Beau’s lines: These are deep grooved lines running horizontally on
fingernails and toenails.
Bleach: It refers to a bleaching agent, which helps lighten the skin
tone. It is, generally, used to lighten the colour of facial hair. The
process is termed ‘bleaching’.
Carpals: Bones of the wrist.
Clean-up: This is done for unclogging the skin pores and letting
the skin breathe. It helps to slough off dead skin cells and clean
deep-seated dirt from the skin. As a result, the skin is cleansed,
exfoliated and moisturised.
Comedone extractor: A tool used for removing blackheads and
whiteheads, thus, making the skin clearer and shinier.
Contra-indication: A condition that prevents a treatment.
Corrugations: Wavy ridges on the nail.
Cuticle: The overlapping skin around the base of a nail.
Depilation: The deliberate removal of unwanted body hair.
Emery board: A tool having two sides — a coarse side for shortening
the nails and a fine side for shaping and bevelling.
Eponychium: The cuticle of the finger nail.
Effleurage: A slow, sweeping massage movement.
Exfoliant: A grainy substance used to remove dead skin cells.
Extensors: Muscles that straighten the wrist and foot.
Flexors: Muscles that bend the wrist and foot.
Furrows: Depressions in the nail.
Germinal matrix: The root of the fingernail. This portion of the
nail is actually beneath the skin behind the fingernail and extends
several millimetres into the finger.

Glossary .indd 130 27-Jun-19 11:55:04 AM


Hair bulb: It contains the cells, which produce hair.
Hairdo: It is achieved by arranging the hair in a certain way, using
combs, blow-dryer, cosmetics, etc.
Hair dressing: The practice of styling the hair is called ‘hairdressing’,
especially when done as an occupation. Hairstyling may also include
adding accessories, such as hairbands, clips, pins, barrettes, tiaras,
etc., to hold the hair in a certain place and style, and enhance its
appearance.
Hair follicle cycle: It has three phases — anagen, catagen
and telogen.
Hair shaft: Hair shaft is the part visible above the scalp. Shaft is
made up of keratin, which cannot be easily torn. Hair shaft is made
up of layers and they can get damaged if they come in contact with
direct heat or unfavourable conditions.
Keratin: A protein that is the chief component of the skin and nails.
It cannot be easily damaged or torn.
Make-up: The process of applying cosmetics to enhance or alter
a person’s overall look. Lipstick, eyeliner, eye shadow, mascara,
foundation, kohl, lip gloss, lip balm, concealer, face powder, etc., are
commonly used in make-up.
Matrix: The part of the nail that produces cells that generate
nail growth.
Manicure: A treatment for improving the appearance of hands and
nails. It is popular among both men and women. Most salons have a
separate area catering solely to this treatment.
Metacarpals: Bones of the palm.
Nail plate: The actual fingernail, which is made up of translucent
keratin. The pink appearance of the nail comes from the blood
vessels underneath.
Pedicure: A treatment that helps in improving the appearance of
feet and toenails. It also includes removal of dead skin cells by
using a pumice stone, exfoliation and massage, followed by painting
the toenails.
Perioncyhium: The skin that overlies the nail plate on its sides. It
is also known as ‘paronychial edge’.
Phalanges: Bones of the fingers.
Physiology: The study of the functions of various body parts and
the body as a whole.
Personal Protective Equipment: It includes gloves, goggles,
covered shoes, apron, headgear or head cover, etc. These are meant
to protect a person and the clothes that the person is wearing.
Pumice stone: A light, rough and porous stone used for scrubbing
the skin. It sloughs off hard and dead skin cells.
Radius: The smaller bone of the forearm.
Rasp: A coarse form of file used for removing calluses and
smoothening the skin.

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Glossary .indd 131 27-Jun-19 11:55:05 AM


Record card: An important document, which must be maintained
by a salon as it contains the past treatments taken by a client, the
treatment the person has been booked for, client history, about the
products to be used, skin type and allergies, if any.
Skin: The outer covering of the body. It acts as a protective shield
for the body.
Sterile matrix: The nail bed is part of the nail matrix also called
sterile matrix. It extends from the edge of germinal matrix or lunula
to hyponychium. The nail bed contains blood vessels, nerves, and
melanocytes or melanin producing cells.
Sterilisation: The highest form of decontamination that kills
all germs.
Threading: A hair removal technique, which removes the entire hair
follicle by the use of a cotton thread. The hair is pulled out in a
twisting motion, wherein the thread traps the hair and pulls it out.
Waxing: A hair removal technique, in which the hair are pulled out
from the root by the use of hot or cold wax. It takes 3–6 weeks for the
new hair to grow, according to a person’s hair growth pattern. Strip
and stripless waxing are its two types.

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Answer Key
Unit 1: Beauty and Wellness Industry, and Beauty Therapy
Session 1: Career Opportunities in the Beauty and Wellness Sector
A. Multiple Choice Questions
1. (d) 2. (c) 3. (c)
B. Fill in the Blanks
(a) therapist (b) slimming (c) make-up (d) therapies
Session 2: Beauty Therapy Services
A. Multiple Choice Questions
1. (c) 2. (a) 3. (b)
B. Fill in the Blanks
1. twisting 2. hairstyle 3. hairdressing 4. stripless
Session 3: Preparing and Maintaining the Work Area
A. Multiple Choice Questions
1. (a) 2. (d) 3. (b) 4. (d)
B. Fill in the Blanks
1. diseases 2. Hygiene 3. sterilisation
4. first aid 5. safe
Session 4: Health and Safety in the Work Area
A. Multiple Choice Questions
1. (a) 2. (d) 3. (b) 4. (c)
B. Fill in the Blanks
1. Water 2. Oxygen 3. extinguisher 4. mask
Unit 2: Skincare Services
Session 1: Anatomy and Physiology of the Skin
A. Multiple Choice Questions
1. (d) 2. (c) 3. (b) 4. (c)
B. Fill in the Blanks
1. epidermis 2. collagen 3. melanin
4. immune 5. fibrous
Session 2: Types of Skin and Skincare
A. Fill in the Blanks
1. impurities 2. blackheads 3. wrinkles 4. normal
5. sebaceous 6. pimples 7. peel-off
Session 3: Actions of the Facial, Neck and Shoulder Muscles
A. Fill in the Blanks
1. occipitals 2. frontalis 3. quadratus labii inferiors

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Glossary .indd 133 27-Jun-19 11:55:06 AM


B. Match the Columns
1. (d) 2. (a) 3. (b)
4. (e) 5. (c)
C. Multiple Choice Questions
1. (a) 2. (b)

Session 4: Bleaching
A. Fill in the Blanks
1. bleaching 2. patch 3. watering 4. ammonia

Unit 3: Manicure and Pedicure Service


Session 1: Anatomy of the Nail, Hand and Feet
A. Multiple Choice Questions
1. (c) 2. (a) 3. (b) 4. (c)
B. Fill in the Blanks
1. marrow 2. tendon 3. ligament 4. blood, relaxing

Session 2: Manicure
A. Multiple Choice Questions
1. (d) 2. (b) 3. (d) 4. (a)
5. (c) 6. (d) 7. (a)
B. Fill in the Blanks
1. cuticle 2. filing 3. pumice 4. ridges

Session 3: Pedicure
A. Multiple Choice Questions
1. (a) 2. (d) 3. (b) 4. (b)

Unit 4: Depilation Services


Session 1: Waxing
A. Fill in the Blanks
1. shaft 2. cortex 3. waxing
5. soft 5. 24 hours
B. State True or False
1. False 2. True 3. False
Session 2: Threading
A. Fill in the Blanks
1. thread 2. round 3. heart
5. scissors 5. hair
B. State True or False
1. True 2. True 3. False 4. False

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