Beauty-Therapist Theory 156pages
Beauty-Therapist Theory 156pages
Beauty-Therapist Theory 156pages
(Job Role)
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June 2018 Research and Training
iv
vi
Members
Annu Wadhwa, CEO, Beauty and Wellness Sector Skill Council,
New Delhi
Arti Amarendra, Director, Arti Salon, Chennai, Tamil Nadu
Bharti Taneja, Founder, Alps Cosmetic Clinic, New Delhi
Gurpreet Seble, Owner, Nail Spa by Gurpreet, Mumbai, Maharashtra
Joban Mani, Director, Nail Pro, New Delhi
Maya Paranjapye, Trustee, Association of Beauty Therapy and
Cosmetology, Mumbai, Maharashtra
Pratibha Dusaj, Head, Standards and Quality Assurance, Beauty
and Wellness Sector Skill Council, New Delhi
Sangita Chauhan, President, All India Hair and Beauty Association,
New Delhi
Sohini Guha, Manager, Standards and Quality Assurance, Beauty
and Wellness Sector Skill Council, New Delhi
Vaijayanti Balachandran, Founder, Rand R. Salons YLG,
Koramangala, Bengaluru, Karnataka
Vaishali Shah, Education Head, LTA School of Beauty, Bhopal,
Madhya Pradesh
Vikram Bhatt, Director, Enrich Salon and Academy, Ahmedabad,
Gujarat
Member-coordinator
Vinay Swarup Mehrotra, Professor and Head, Curriculum
Development and Evaluation Centre and NSQF Cell, PSSCIVE,
Bhopal, Madhya Pradesh
Foreword iii
About the Textbook v
Unit 1: Beauty and Wellness Industry, and Beauty Therapy 1
Session 1: Career Opportunities in the Beauty and Wellness Sector 3
Session 2: Beauty Therapy Services 9
Session 3: Preparing and Maintaining the Work Area 15
Session 4: Health and Safety in the Work Area 25
Unit 2: Skincare Services 44
Session 1: Anatomy and Physiology of the Skin 45
Session 2: Types of Skin and Skincare 51
Session 3: Actions of the Facial, Neck and Shoulder Muscles 65
Session 4: Bleaching 71
Unit 3: Manicure and Pedicure Services 76
Session 1: Anatomy of the Nail, Hand and Feet 77
Session 2: Manicure 85
Session 3: Pedicure 98
Unit 4: Depilation Services 105
Session 1: Waxing 107
Session 2: Threading 122
Glossary 130
Answer Key 133
– Caroline Frazer
Introduction
The outward appearance of a person is the first
thing that catches the eye of others. Therefore, being
presentable at all times is of considerable importance.
Here, comes the role of a Beauty Therapist, who carries
out various beauty treatments on a person to improve
the overall appearance, which includes dressing-up
appropriately, putting the right make-up, skincare
and hairstyle. Besides, the therapist gives wellness
treatments, including manicure and pedicure, which
involve massage, followed by aftercare advice to clients.
Sometimes, they are also suggested a balanced diet
and nutrition, and a daily exercise regimen to maintain a
healthy lifestyle.
In this Unit, you will learn about the basic aspects of
the Beauty and Wellness Industry, career opportunities
in the sector, various beauty therapy services, preparing
and maintaining the work area, and health and safety
standards to be followed at a workplace.
4%
`3.4 million
48% Rejuvenation
Estimated workforce
in Beauty and
SEGMENTS
OF THE 48% Slimming
and fitness
Wellness services
SECTOR Beauty and
Wellness
Rejuvenation centres
This includes the core spa industry services, such as
spa operations, spa education, spa products and events.
The sector primarily offers pro-active services aimed at
relaxing the body and mind.
Unisex salons
Unisex beauty salons offer Beauty and Wellness services
to both men and women. Many organised segments
are offering such services, and unisex beauty and
wellness centres are gradually gaining acceptance in
the Indian society.
Skincare Services
Master Trainer Centre Head Salon Internal Evaluator
Beauty Therapist
Make-up Services
Centre Head Salon Master Trainer Internal Evaluator
Assistant Beauty
Therapist
Nail Trainer
Nail Technician
Assistant
Nail Manicurist or Assistant Assistant Spa
Beauty
Technician Pedicurist Tattoo Artist Therapist
Therapist
Activity 1
Prepare a flow chart on the career path for a Beauty Therapist
in skincare services.
Material required: chart paper, sketch pens, pencil, eraser,
sharpener and ruler
Activity 2
Identify training and employment opportunities locally available
for a Beauty Therapist.
Material required: notebook and pen
Procedure
C. Subjective Questions
Manicure
Threading Waxing Bleaching
and pedicure
Face
Make-up Hairdo Mehendi
clean-up
Manicure
It is a treatment for improving the appearance of hands,
and is popular among both men and women. Most
salons have a separate area catering to this service. This
treatment helps in keeping the hands and nails clean
and well-groomed by pushing back cuticles, removing
dead skin cells and softening the skin — exfoliation,
massaging and application of nail paint. Thus, manicure
helps in:
• softening the hands.
• improving blood circulation in the hands.
• relaxing the hand and finger muscles.
• improving the appearance of hands and nails.
Pedicure
This treatment helps improve the appearance of feet
and toenails. Like manicure, it also includes exfoliation,
Threading
It is a hair removal technique, wherein a cotton
thread is used to remove the entire hair follicle
(Fig. 1.9). The hair is pulled out in a twisting
motion, wherein the thread traps the hair and
pulls it out.
• Threading is less painful than pulling
out individual hair.
• It is much quicker and safer than waxing.
• It is suitable for almost all skin types, Fig. 1.9: Threading of the forehead
including sensitive skin.
• No chemical is used.
• It gives a clean and well-kempt look to
the face and eyebrows.
Waxing
It is also a hair removal technique, in which
the hair is pulled out from the root by the use
of hot or cold wax. It takes around three to six
weeks for the new hair to grow. This depends
on a person’s hair growth pattern. Waxing is of
two types — strip and stripless waxing.
In strip waxing, a thin layer of wax is
applied on the skin and a cloth or disposable
paper strip is placed over it and pulled against
the direction of hair growth, removing the Fig. 1.10: Waxing of the hand
unwanted hair along with the wax.
In stripless waxing, a thick layer of wax is
applied and no cloth or paper strip is used. On
Bleaching
Bleach refers to a bleaching agent, which
helps lighten the skin tone. Bleaching is done
to lighten the colour of facial hair (Fig. 1.11).
Bleaching is done for the following purposes:
• reducing dark spots and freckles
• lightening dark areas on the elbow
or underarm
• brightening the skin
Fig. 1.11: Bleaching of the face
• lightening the facial hair and making
them less visible
Face clean-up
Clean-up is done for unclogging the skin
pores and allowing the skin to breathe
(Fig. 1.12). It helps remove dead cells and clean
deep-seated dirt from the skin. In the process
of clean-up, the skin is cleansed, exfoliated
and moisturised. Unclogging clears the pores
and decongests the skin, thereby, allowing it
to breathe. It has the following benefits:
• imparts a healthy glow to the face
• cleans the skin thoroughly by removing
Fig. 1.12: Face clean-up
harmful bacteria, sweat and impurities
due to pollution
• wards-off acne and pimples
• improves blood circulation in the face
Make-up
It is a process of applying cosmetics on the
face to enhance one’s appearance (Fig. 1.13).
Lipstick, eyeliner, eye shadow, mascara,
foundation, kohl, lip gloss, lip balm, concealer,
face powder, etc., are commonly used in
make-up.
The film and TV industry, including
television media, and theatre, need make-up
Fig. 1.13: Applying make-up artists on a regular payroll. Hence, there
Hairdo
A hairdo or hairstyle is a way in which
the hair is styled (Fig. 1.14). It is
considered as an important aspect of
personal grooming and fashion, and is
popular among both men and women.
A hairstyle is achieved by arranging the
hair in a certain way by the use of combs,
blow-dryer and cosmetics like hair
gel, etc. Styling the hair is also called
‘hairdressing’, especially when practised Fig. 1.14: Making a hairstyle
as an occupation. Hairstyling includes
adding accessories, such as hairbands,
clips, pins, barrette, tiaras, etc., to the hair to hold
it in place and enhance its appearance. It has the
following benefits:
• enhances the appearance of the hair and face,
thus, increasing the confidence of a person
• helps in taming unruly hair
Mehendi (henna)
It is an art of decorating the hands
(including palms) and legs (including feet)
with designs using a natural plant dye
that colours the skin maroon-red. It is
a natural dye that leaves a cooling effect
on the skin (Fig. 1.15). Mehendi stays on
one’s skin for few days. It is done mostly
on special occasions, such as weddings,
festivals, religious ceremonies, etc.
Mehendi is made from henna leaves.
Fig. 1.15: Applying mehendi
It has conditioning properties and is also
used to dye the hair.
Activity 1
Prepare a collage depicting the various services provided by a
Beauty Therapist.
Material required: chart paper, glue stick, beauty magazines,
pencil, eraser and sketch pens
Procedure
Activity 2
Role-play of a Beauty Therapist in preparing a client for waxing.
Material required: notebook and pen
Procedure
C. Subjective Questions
1. What is the difference between manicure and pedicure?
2. What is the purpose of waxing?
(a) (b)
Fig. 1.16 (a) and (b): The work area of a beauty salon
Activity 1
Prepare a list of equipment used in a beauty salon.
Material required: chart paper, glue stick, pictures of material
used in a beauty salon, pencil, eraser and sketch pens
Procedure
Procedure
C. Subjective Questions
1. Describe any five responsibilities of a Beauty Therapist.
2. What do you mean by maintaining record cards?
3. Name any six tools that need to be sterilised.
Fire safety
In a salon, there are various items that can lead to a
fire. To avoid such a mishap, one must be aware of the
flammable items being used in the salon. Some of the
items that may lead to a fire are:
• combustible oils
• flammable liquids and gases
• fuel-fired equipment
• refrigeration equipment
ELECTRICAL SAFETY
CHEMICAL SAFETY
PARLOUR HYGIENE
Types of fire
All fires are not the same. The classification of fires as A,
B, C, D and K is based on fuels that trigger a type of fire.
(a)
Foam Extinguisher
To extinguish flammable liquid fires caused by
FOAM the following:
• Oil-based paints
• Greases
• Hydrocarbon liquids
(b)
Water Extinguisher
To extinguish fires caused by ordinary combustibles,
WATER such as:
• Paper
• Wood
• Clothes
(c)
Halon Extinguisher
(d)
POWDER
To extinguish most types of fire (not preferred to be
used in fighting electronic appliances fires)
(e)
CO2 Extinguisher
To extinguish most types of fire, except those caused
CO2
by combustible metals
• Effective in case of electrical fires
• Less effective in open air due to dispersion
(f)
Fig.1.24 (a-f): Types of fire extinguisher
First action
Every mishap can be dealt with efficiently and
effectively, if a person acts promptly and knows what to
do in case of a breakout. So, what must be done in case
of a fire at a workplace?
1) Stay calm and do not panic.
2) Alert the people around.
3) Dial fire service helpline number 101 (in India)
immediately.
4) Use your presence of mind and decide between
escaping (in case of a major fire) and trying to
extinguish the blaze if it is a minor one.
5) If one chooses to extinguish the fire, then choose
the type of extinguisher carefully, depending on Fig. 1.25: Signage for
the type of fire. assembly point
First aid
If one catches fire, one must ‘stop, drop, cover
and roll’. This is the first thing that needs to
be done to douse the flames on clothes. In
case of burns, follow these steps.
1) Wash the affected area with running cold
water for at least 20 minutes (Fig. 1.27).
2) Put a wet cloth on the affected area, if
Fig. 1.27: Wash the burn with cold water running cold water is unavailable.
3) Do not use ice, butter, creams, etc., on the burn.
4) Immediately remove clothing and jewellery on the
affected area to protect the skin from further heat
and prevent the blood flow from stopping.
5) Do not burst the blisters as it can increase the
pain and chances of infection.
6) Check for other injuries, such as bleeding,
fractures, head injuries, etc.
7) Do not surround the injured person and provide
enough breathing space.
8) Reach out for medical assistance immediately.
Rescue techniques
In case of a fire emergency, the first course of action that
needs to be followed is to escape from the exit route. Be
careful of the surroundings when making your way out
or trying to save someone. Follow these steps for a safe
rescue or exit.
1) Look out for the nearest exit point — door
or window.
2) While making your way out, shout out if anyone
is left trapped inside.
Electrical safety
Electricity, a necessity, can be fatal at times. Shocks
from faulty or damaged equipment can cause severe
injuries and can even lead to permanent disability. One
needs to be careful while working around machines or
exposed cables. Safety depends on how one deals with
a situation and one’s alertness because a harm can be
caused by just coming in contact with live parts, directly
or indirectly through a conducting material.
Risks
The main risk associated here is the death of a person
or severe injuries. Some faults can even lead to fires or
explosions, risking the lives of the people around. The
occurrence of a short circuit in a place having flammable
liquids can also lead to a fire.
People at risk
• Maintenance staff, who look after
machines and their operations
• workers, working near an equipment,
and those working without taking any
training or precautions
• People, who misuse an equipment or try
to use faulty equipment
Causes of common hazards
Fig. 1.28: Be careful of exposed cables
• Exposed electrical parts like cables,
broken plugs and sockets damaged
appliances, etc. (Fig. 1.28)
Chemical safety
In the Beauty and Wellness Industry, various products,
containing chemicals, are used. Frequent contact with
these products can lead to some adverse health effects.
But these products cannot be avoided. So, it becomes
imperative that while using them, utmost care and
precautions are taken.
Harmful chemicals
There are some chemicals that are harmful to health but
it may be difficult to avoid these due to the lack of safer
alternatives. The following table gives information on
some of the harmful chemicals and products containing
them, and precautions that must be taken.
Toluene Nail polish, nail Dizziness, headache, skin Liver and kidney
glue, hair dye, rashes, eye, nose and throat damage, birth
wig, hair glue or irritation defects, pregnancy
hairpiece bonding loss
glue
Ammonium Hair bleach Eye, skin and nose irritation, Asthma, dermatitis
Persulfate coughing, shortness of
breath
Ethyl Methacrylate Artificial nails Eye and skin irritation, Asthma
rashes on eyelids, face
or neck, difficulty in
concentrating, coughing and
shortness of breath
Acetone Nail polish Eye, skin and throat Eye, skin and
remover, hairspray irritation, dizziness throat irritation,
dizziness
Butyl Acetate, Ethyl Nail polish, nail Eye, skin and throat Eye, skin and
Acetate or Isopropyl polish remover, wig irritation, headache, throat irritation,
Acetate glue or hairpiece dizziness dermatitis
bonding glue
Methacrylic Acid Nail primer, Skin burns, eye, nose and Kidney damage,
eyelash glue throat irritation dermatitis,
reproductive
toxicity
Chemical handling
The seepage or spilling of chemicals can occur
at any stage of providing beauty treatments to
clients. We can cut out on the harm caused by
them, if handled carefully. The following points
must be taken into account while working with
chemicals.
Personal Protective Equipment
All personnel working in a salon must wear
Fig. 1.30: Wear gloves before starting
to work with chemicals
Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) to avoid a
mishap or injury. PPE includes apron, mask,
gloves and head cover.
Work areas
Never use tabletops as storage areas. However, chemicals
for immediate use can be put on tabletops of the
work area.
Close bottles
The lids of bottles or jars, in which chemical products
are stored, must be closed tightly after use and kept
away from the edges so that they do not fall and spill on
to the floor.
Labels
All bottles must be labelled with the name of
the chemicals or products stored inside, hazard
pictogram and description about the product.
Make sure that the labels are not worn out
or damaged.
Chemical storage
Storing chemicals safely is important as even the
slightest carelessness has the potential to cause a
hazard and major accidents. Liquid chemicals are
more dangerous as compared to powders because they
can spill over to larger areas and increase the risk.
So, there needs to be a storage area and containment
facility to curb accidents. The personnel working in
the salon must be trained in storing and using the
chemicals. They must also be aware of what needs to
be done in case of an emergency. Precautions that can
help prevent accidents are as follows.
1) It is better to have a separate storage area for
chemicals to avoid hazards.
2) They need to be arranged in a shelf according to
their compatibility as incompatible chemicals can
initiate or intensify a fire.
3) They must not be placed on shelves higher than
1.5 m from the ground level.
4) Heavy and large bottles need to be kept in lower
shelves and flammable chemicals must be placed
in safety cabinets.
5) Every chemical needs to have a designated place
of storage and must be put back in its respective
place after use.
6) Ensure that the chemicals are not exposed to heat
or sunlight.
7) Each chemical must be labelled.
Risks at workplace
We have already studied about the
hazards that one may come across at
a workplace. The risks associated with
these hazards are:
• tripping over stray wires,
• bumping into equipment and
things placed in the way and
falling or getting injured,
• electric shocks or fire due to loose
or frayed cables,
• slipping on water or some other
liquid spilled on the floor,
• allergy from unsterilised tools, and
• burns from heating rods and
hot water. Fig. 1.34: Hazards at a workplace
Wash hands
Wash your hands with a hand wash or
anti-bacterial soap before performing a
treatment (Fig. 1.35). Since hands come in
contact with many people and things, such
as shaking hands with customers, providing
services to clients, using various products to
carry out treatments, touching used towels
and tools, etc., it is important that one washes
the hands before and after carrying out a
Fig. 1.35: Wash the hands with a
hand wash or an anti-bacterial soap
treatment. One can also use a sanitiser to
before and after a treatment clean the hands.
Work surface
The work surface includes the treatment
area, desks, glasses, mirrors, etc. Ensure that
they are clean and disinfected prior to use to
prevent infections (Fig. 1.36). Use clean sheets
for covering the work surface.
Activity 1
Prepare a first aid box.
Material required: cardboard box and various first aid material
(cotton, anti-septic liquid, cotton swabs for cleaning wound,
sterilised gauze, forceps, scissors, safety pin, Band-Aid, bandages,
etc.), white chart paper, sketch pens, pen, pencil and eraser
Procedure
Procedure
On the chart paper, draw a table as given below and put a tick () or cross () mark in the
blank space provided.
Fire
extinguisher Colour
used
Type Fires Fires Fires Fires caused Fires caused Fires
caused caused by caused by by burning by electrical caused by
by wood, flammable flammable metals like equipment cooking
paper, liquids gases magnesium oils
etc. and aluminium
Water
Foam
Dry powder
M28/L2
CO2
Wet chemical
C. Subjective Questions
1. What is electrocution? Write down the effects of
electrocution.
2. Write a brief note on the type of fire extinguishers.
Introduction
A Beauty Therapist is a professionally trained
individual, who specialises in beauty and wellness
services, and offers services from head to toe in order to
improve a person’s overall appearance. The therapist
performs skincare, make-up, depilation, manicure
and pedicure services.
The person must have knowledge of beauty and
Do you know? wellness, safety and hygiene standards to be followed
Skin is the largest organ in a salon, beauty products, and a range of beauty
of the human body. services that are available in market.
On an average, adults
This Unit gives an insight into anatomy and
have around 8 pounds
(3.6 kg) and 22 sq ft physiology of the skin and skincare services that are
of skin. performed by the Beauty Therapist, such as cleansing,
application of toners and skin fresheners, application of
moisturisers, and bleaching.
In order to provide effective skincare services, the
person must have knowledge about the basic anatomy
and physiology of the skin. The students will also learn
to identify the skin type. A make-up must be suggested
based on a client’s skin type. The students must also
understand the effects of voluntary movements of face,
neck and shoulder muscles.
Session 1: Anatomy and Physiology
of the Skin
The Beauty Therapist needs to be aware of the basic
anatomy and physiology of the skin in order to provide
effective skincare services. ‘Skin’ is the protective or outer
covering of the body. It is a waterproof, insulating shield,
guarding the body against extremes of temperature,
sunlight and harmful chemicals.
Skin: The skin acts as a protective shield for the body. The
Beauty Therapist needs to be aware of the basic anatomy and
physiology of the skin in order to provide effective skincare
services to clients.
Anatomy: It refers to the structure of the human body and the
relationship of different body parts with each other.
Physiology: It is the study of the function of different body parts
and the body as a whole.
Skincare Services
45
Melanocytes
Epidermis
Merkel cells
These are found in the basal layer of the epidermis.
Special immune-histochemical stains are needed
to visualise merkel cells, which are also known as
‘merkel-ranvier cells’ or ‘tactile epithelial cells’. These
are oval-shaped mechanoreceptors necessary for light
touch sensation and found in the skin of vertebrates.
However, their exact role and function is not understood.
Beauty Therapist – Class XI
46
Hair shaft
Collagen and
elastin fibre
Dermis
Sebaceous glands
Sweat gland
Hair follicle
Collagen fibre
This type of fibre predominates
the dermis. Collagen fibre has
enormous tensile strength and
provides the skin with strength
and thickness. Collagen bundles Collagen
are small in the upper or papillary
dermis and form thicker bundles Fibroblast
Elastin
in deeper or reticular dermis.
Elastin fibre
It provides elasticity and pliability
to the skin. Fig. 2.5: Collagen fibre of the skin
Collagen and elastin fibre are
bound together by mucopolysaccharide gel, in which
nutrients and wastes can diffuse into and form other
tissue components. The dermis also contains nerves,
blood vessels, epidermal adnexal structures, tissues
and cells.
Skincare Services
47
Deep wrinkle
Epidermis
Dermis
Hypodermis
Protection
Skin protects the body from injury, heat, radiation,
chemicals and microorganisms. Due to constant
shedding of ‘stratum corneum’, it acts as a mechanical
barrier and does not allow organisms to stay or penetrate
Thermo regulation
The skin also serves as a temperature regulator,
enabling the body to adapt to different temperatures
and atmospheric conditions by regulating moisture
loss. This is done by controlling the secretion of sweat
by sweat glands followed by evaporation of sweat from
the surface of the skin.
Hormone synthesis
An active form of vitamin D is synthesised in the skin in
the presence of sunlight.
Excretion
Through the secretion of sweat and sebum, the skin
performs excretory function, eliminating a number of
harmful substances resulting from metabolic activities
of the intestine and liver.
Immunological role
The skin plays immunological role too as the langerhans
cells pick antigens from the skin and carry them to the
lymph nodes.
Sensory function
The skin has an intricate network of fine nerve terminals
between epidermal cells and specialised nerve endings
in the dermis and around cutaneous appendages.
These nerve endings carry the sensation of touch, pain,
temperature, wetness and itchiness.
Activity 1
Group discussion on the basic knowledge that a Beauty
Therapist must have as regards to the anatomy of skin.
Material required: notebook and pen
Skincare Services
49
Activity 2
The anatomical structure of the skin is given below. Label the
parts of the skin.
C. Subjective Questions
1. Name the three layers of the skin.
2. List five functions of the skin.
Skincare Services
51
Normal skin
‘Normal’ skin is balanced. It is neither too dry nor too
oily. The overall sebum and moisture content in such
a skin is balanced but the T-zone (forehead, chin and
nose) may be slightly oily. It is the rarest skin type.
Therefore, it is important to take care of one’s skin and
keep oneself hydrated always.
How to identify
• Normal skin is healthy, soft and has a
translucent glow.
• It does not have any mark or blemish.
• It has fine pores.
• There is adequate blood circulation in such a skin.
• Such a skin is not prone to sensitivity.
• The pH of such a skin is 5.5–5.8.
Dry skin
Dry skin produces less sebum than normal skin.
As a result, the skin lacks lipids required to retain
moisture and builds a protective shield against external
influences. Dry skin is because of lack of lubrication
from the sebaceous glands.
How to identify
• Dry skin can feel tight and rough, and looks dull.
• Such a skin has fine lines near the eyes and
mouth. Elderly women having dry skin have
prominent wrinkles and facial lines.
• It slowly loses elasticity with age.
• It is sensitive to irritation, rashes and infections.
• It is itchy if not moisturised regularly.
• The soles of the feet of people having dry skin
develop cracks.
Oily skin
Oily skin is the result of clogging of sebaceous glands,
causing sluggish blood circulation. Such a skin has
Combination skin
This type of skin is common. The skin type varies in
the T-zone and cheeks. An oily T-Zone and dry cheeks
indicate combination skin.
How to identify
• It is characterised by an oily T-zone.
• The skin has large pores in the T-zone.
Matured Skin
It is somewhat similar to dry skin in appearance. It
appears parched, saggy and dehydrated. The skin has
deep lines.
Skincare Services
53
Skincare techniques
There are three important skincare techniques —
cleansing, application of toners and skin fresheners,
and moisturising.
Cleansing
Cleansing is a common beauty treatment offered by
most beauty salons. It is done to remove impurities
accumulated in the skin pores. Cleansing lotion, gel
or milk can be used for deep cleansing. Cleansing cream
is used for cleansing and removing make-up. The cream
melts as soon as it comes in contact with the skin,
thus, allowing it to penetrate into the pores for deep
cleansing. The cream also prevents the occurrence
of blackheads.
Moisturising
Moisturisers are used to keep the skin soft and supple.
These are made up of Normalising Moisturising Factor
(NMF) ingredients. Moisturisers delay wrinkle formation.
Skin cells
The formation of skin cells takes place in the bottom of
the epidermis. Gradually, the cells move to the surface,
where they die. In this way, dead cells are continually
shed away from the skin. In old age, this process slows
down and dead cells start forming a layer instead of
shedding. This, in turn, slows down the process of skin
regeneration. Dryness increases, which leads to the
formation of fine lines, wrinkles and sagging of the skin.
Age spots
These are caused by prolonged exposure to sunlight and
can be brown, black or gray in colour. Aging leads to
increase in melanin, which causes skin pigmentation,
leading to age spots. Fig. 2.8: An age spot on the skin
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Formation of wrinkles
Aging leads to decrease in the production of skin
proteins — collagen and elastin, which are essential for
younger and healthy skin. Collagen provides firmness
and strength, while elastin provides flexibility and
resilience to the skin. The reduced production of proteins
leads to sagging of the skin and wrinkle formation.
However, beauty therapies, such as red light therapy,
LED, high frequency, etc., help activate collagen and
elastin production.
Dry skin
The skin gets dryer with age. As the number of oil
producing glands decreases, there is a loss of fat and
moisture, resulting in thinning of the skin. Even the
skin type changes from oily to normal to dry. Besides,
soaps, hot or cold temperatures, and use of some beauty
products may further make the skin dryer.
Shrinking of muscles
Muscles also age and lose their tone with time. Facial
skin and skin at the neck are attached to muscles.
The shrinking of muscles makes signs of aging more
apparent and the entire face starts to sag with age.
Bone loss
Our face is supported by various bones, such as brow
bone, nose, jawline and chin. With age, the skins under
the eyes, around the nose, mouth and cheeks sag, and
the jawline becomes less distinct due to bone loss.
Many go for filler and botox treatments in order to get
a younger looking face and skin. But these treatments
are expensive and done only by specialists.
Clay mask
The main ingredient of such a mask is natural clay,
which has a deep cleansing effect on the skin. The
mask draws the impurities on the surface of the skin
while drying. It unclogs the pores and tightens the
skin. It is best for people with normal to oily skin
as it absorbs excess oil without stripping the skin of
natural oils. Fig. 2.10: Clay mask
Peel-off mask
It, generally, comes in gel, plastic or paraffin
sub-types. Such a mask does not absorb as much oil
and dirt as clay mask. Peel-off mask is mainly used
for tightening the skin and promoting blood
circulation. It works best for mature and dry skin as
it hydrates and nourishes the skin.
Fig. 2.11: Peel-off mask
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Blackhead removal
Blackheads are a type of mild acne, which get clogged
with dirt, oil and sebum. The melanin further oxidises
with these impurities, causing the surface to appear
dark or even black. They can appear on the face, neck,
shoulders or even back. The main reasons of blackheads
Fig. 2.18 (a): Blackhead
are dead skin cells not shedding naturally, changes in
the hormone level, medication, acne-causing bacteria,
excess oil production in the skin, etc.
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Benefits
• The skin becomes more receptive to
skin treatments, such as application
of masks, serums, etc., after steaming.
• Steaming increases blood circulation
Fig. 2.21: Skin warming using hot water steam in the face.
• It helps remove toxins from the skin
through perspiration.
• It softens the dirt clogged inside the
pores for easy removal.
• Steaming helps in relaxing as the skin
becomes free from dirt and impurities.
Points to remember
• Steam the client’s skin before applying
the mask as it helps open the pores
and enables deep cleansing.
• Cleansing and exfoliating must be
Fig. 2.22: Skin warming using a wet towel followed by steaming.
• There are two common and simple ways of skin
warming — hot towels and steamers.
• The first method involves dipping a clean towel
into hot water and putting it on the client’s face
after squeezing it lightly and cooling it. The
second option is to bring the water to boil, and
then, turn off the heat. Now, with a clean towel
draped over the head, place the face above the
pot containing the hot water to absorb the steam.
• Both the methods can be used for a minute or
two. Too much steaming can cause redness.
• Keep the client’s skin type in mind before
giving steam.
• The other method is using face steamers available
in a salon.
Activity 1
Identification of skin type.
Material required: notebook and pen
Procedure
Activity 2
Practical sessions on cleansing, moisturising and face
mask application.
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Procedure
B. Subjective Questions
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Eyebrow muscle
Orbicularis oculi is a facial muscle that surrounds the
margin of the eye socket. It helps in blinking.
Procerus
This muscle extends from the bridge of the nose to the
top between the eyebrows. Wrinkles are created across
the bridge of the nose by depressing the eyebrows.
Nasalis
Nasalis muscle of the nose compresses the nose,
causing wrinkles. It is responsible for the flaring of
nostrils when underwater, thereby, preventing water
from entering the nose.
Buccinator
It is a thin flat muscle between the upper and lower jaws.
The shape of the cheek is attributed to this muscle. It
puffs out the cheeks when blowing and keeps food in
the mouth while chewing.
Mentalis
This muscle is situated on the tip of the chin. The
movement of the lower lip is controlled by this muscle.
Orbicularis oris
Flat band around the lower and upper lip is formed
because of the presence of this muscle.
Zygomaticus
This muscle extends from the zygomatic bone and
continues into the orbicular oris to the angle of the
mouth. It elevates the lip while laughing.
Triangular
This muscle extends along the side of the chin. The
corner of the chin is pulled down by this muscle.
Auricularis superior
This muscle is present above the ear.
Auricularis posterior
This muscle is present behind the ear.
Auricularis anterior
This muscle is present in front of the ear.
Muscles of mastication
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Abduction
Abduction is opposite to adduction, i.e., taking a limb
away from the sagittal plane.
Prone position
It refers to lying with the front or face downwards.
Supine
It refers to lying with the front or face
upwards.
Dorsi flexion
It helps turning of the foot or toe upwards.
Plantar flexion
This enables turning the foot downwards. Fig. 2.25: Plantar flexion
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Activity
Identification of muscles and their location.
Material required: notebook and pen
Procedure
Match the muscles with their location.
A B
1. Buccinator (a) Situated on the tip of chin
2. Mentalis (b) Muscle of the nose
3. Procerus (c) Lying with the face upwards
4. Mouth muscles (d) Gives shape to cheek
5. Supine (e) Quadratus labii inferiors
Session 4: Bleaching
We have fine hair all over the body, such as
stomach, back, etc. Unwanted hair must be
removed by suitable hair removal procedures.
The common hair removal procedures are —
bleaching, threading and waxing. However,
bleaching does not remove hair like threading
and waxing. It only destroys the colouring
pigment ‘melanin’. When a light ray passes
through them, the hair appear pale golden.
A number of chemicals, such as Hydrogen
peroxide (H2O2) and ammonia are used as
bleaching agents. Fig. 2.26: Bleaching agent
Patch test
As chemicals are used in bleaching, it is always
recommended to perform the treatment only after
conducting a ‘patch test’. This test is conducted by
following these steps.
Step 1: Select a suitable bleach based on the
requirement of a client and the person’s
skin type.
Step 2: Take a teaspoon of bleaching cream.
Step 3: Add two to three grains of ammonia to the
bleaching cream and mix well.
Step 4: Apply bleach on a small patch of the skin
behind the ear.
Step 5: Wait for 10–15 minutes and observe for allergy
or redness on the skin.
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Advantages
• It gives instant result (within 10 minutes).
• It lightens the skin tone.
• It helps in removing suntan.
Disadvantages
• Prolonged use of chemicals may have harmful
effects on the skin and hair.
• The client requires post-bleach care.
Activity 1
Role-play on conducting patch test.
Material required: bleaching cream, ammonia granules, mixing
bowl and brush
Procedure
Step 1: Select bleach based on a person’s skin type and
requirement.
Step 2: Apply bleach on a small patch of the skin behind
the ear.
Step 3: Wait for 10–15 minutes and observe for allergy or
redness on the skin.
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Activity 2
Role-play on bleaching.
Material required: head band, towel, cleansing milk, eye pads
(tea bags or cucumber slices), cotton pieces (2×2"), plastic glass
or ceramic bowl, spatula, bleaching cream, ammonia grains,
moisturiser, lacto calamine, ice cubes and chilled water
Procedure
Step 1: Collect required information like the age of a client,
last time the person had underwent bleaching
procedure, etc.
Step 2: Offer a comfortable chair to the client.
Step 3: Identify the client’s skin type and condition.
Step 4: Conduct a patch test to check for infections
or allergies.
Step 5: Wrap a head band above the client’s forehead and
cover the clothes with a large towel or apron.
Step 6: Apply and spread cleansing milk all over the
client’s face and neck.
Step 7: Prepare the bleaching paste. Follow these steps.
• Take 2–3 spatula of bleaching cream.
• Add 2–3 granules of ammonia to it and
mix well.
Step 8: Apply the paste to the upper lip first, and then, to
the rest of the face.
Step 9: Place eye pads on the eyes to protect them from
watering.
Step 10: Wait for 5–7 minutes for the bleach to process.
Step 11: Remove little bleach from few spots and observe
for the colour of the hair.
Step 12: If the hair is not bleached as desired, then wait for
another five minutes.
Step 13: Again check for the effectiveness of the bleach.
Step 14: Remove the bleach with a spatula from all over the
face and neck.
Step 15: Rub an ice cube all over the face and neck
for relaxation.
Step 16: Apply moisturiser, sunscreen lotion or oil on
the face.
Step 17: Lay a thin layer of lacto calamine on the face in
order to give a soothing effect to the skin.
B. Subjective Questions
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Introduction
The two most common services that are provided by
beauty parlours are ‘manicure’ and ‘pedicure’. A Beauty
Therapist is expected to be proficient in providing these
services. ‘Manicure’ is a treatment that improves the
appearance of nails and hands, and softens them,
whereas, ‘pedicure’ has the same impact on feet. Since
manicure and pedicure relax the muscles and skin
of the hand and feet, respectively, it is important to
understand some basics about the anatomy of the hand
and feet.
The Beauty Therapist, in particular, must know about
the following:
• anatomical structure, functions and characteristics
of nails, and the process of nail growth. The
structure of the nail includes:
▫▫ Nail root matrix
▫▫ Nail mantle
▫▫ Nail plate
▫▫ Nail wall
▫▫ Nail grooves
▫▫ Nail bed
▫▫ Lunula
▫▫ Free edge
▫▫ Hyponychium
▫▫ Cuticle
• anatomical structure of the skin and its functions. Notes
The structure of the skin includes:
▫▫ layers of the epidermis — dermis and
subcutaneous layer
▫▫ hair follicle, hair shaft, sebaceous gland,
arrector pili muscle, sweat gland and sensory
nerve endings
• names and position of bones in the lower leg
and feet
• names and position of bones in the wrist, hands,
fingers and forearm
• structure and functions of lymphatic vessels in
the lower leg, feet, hands and arms
• position of arteries and veins in the lower leg, feet,
hands and arms
• location of muscles in the lower leg, feet, hands
and arms
• nail diseases and disorders
• nail and skin analysis by visual or manual
examination to identify treatable conditions and
contra-indications, restricting or preventing a service
Skeletal system
Its main function is to protect the internal organs. For
example, the ribcage protects the heart and lungs, the
skull protects the brain, vertebral column protects
spine, and so on. The skeleton works with the muscular
system, which provides movement and control of the
body. Muscles are attached to bones and they are
collectively responsible for postures and movements.
The skeletal system is composed of the following.
1) Bones: These form the framework of the human
skeleton.
2) Bone marrow: These are flexible tissues located
in bones, where blood cells are produced.
3) Joints: The point at which two or more bones meet
is called a ‘joint’. Joints not only connect bones
but also bear our weight and enable us to bend
and move.
4) Cartilage: These are the connective tissues
found in joints, which support other tissues that
cannot rejuvenate. Cartilage does not contain
blood vessels.
5) Tendon: It is the tissue where a muscle attaches
to the bone.
6) Ligament: It is the tissue that connects two bones.
Humerus
(upper arm)
Femur
(upper leg)
8 Carpals (wrist)
5 Metacarpals (hand)
14 Phalanges
(finger bones)
Tarsals:
Navicular
Intermediate cuneiform
Phalanges Tarsals:
Cuboid
Lateral cuneiform
Metatarsals
Metacarpal
bones Phalanges:
Proximal
Middle
Carpal Distal
bones
Fig. 3.4: Bones in the foot
Muscular system
There are over 650 muscles in the body, which are
responsible for providing strength, movement, balance,
contraction, posture, stability and muscle tone (Fig. 3.5).
Muscles are mainly of three types — skeletal, cardiac and
smooth. They provide stability to joints, such as knees
and shoulders, work together to contract and provide
posture and heat production.
Massage assists the muscular system in the
following ways:
• reduces connective tissue thickening
• helps in toning up the muscles
• decreases fibrous adhesions from muscle tissue
injury or immobilisation
• enhances cell activity
• enhances posture and balance
• enhances range of motions
• facilitates movement
• facilitates waste removal in the lymph system
• increases flexibility
• reduces pain
• helps in post-operative rehabilitation, a period of
Nail growth
Nail plate
Nails grow throughout life but their growth slows down
with age and poor blood circulation. Fingernails grow
faster than toenails at a rate of 3 mm per month. It
Lateral
nail fold takes 4–6 months for a nail to grow from the root to the
Lunula free edge. Toenails grow about 1 mm per month and
Eponychium take 12–18 months to be completely replaced.
(Cuticle)
Nail root
(a)
The root of the fingernail is also known as ‘germinal
Nail Nail Cuticle
matrix’. It lies beneath the skin behind the fingernail
matrix root Distal edge
Nail plate of nail plate and extends several millimetres into the finger. The
root produces most volume of the nail and the nail bed.
This portion of the nail does not contain melanocytes or
Hyponychium
Nail bed
melanin producing cells. The edge of the germinal matrix
is a white, crescent-shaped structure called ‘lunula’
Phalanx (bone of the fingertip)
[Fig. 3.6 (a and b)].
(b)
Fig. 3.6 (a and b): Structure Nail bed
of the nail
Nail bed is a part of the nail matrix called ‘sterile matrix’.
It extends from the edge of germinal matrix or lunula
to hyponychium. The nail bed contains blood vessels,
nerves and melanocytes or melanin producing cells. As
the nail is produced by the root, it streams down along
the nail bed, which adds ‘kerat’ to the under surface of
the nail, making it thicker [Fig. 3.6 (a and b)].
Activity 1
Label the bones of the arm as shown in
Figure 1.
Material required: pen, pencil and eraser
Procedure
Figure 2
Hygiene
• Clean trolleys, work surface(s) and shelves with
surgical spirit.
• Clean and disinfect the work surface(s) prior to use.
• Use clean warm towels and bedroll for each client.
• Use disposable products.
• Use a spatula to take out products from containers.
• Clean the neck of a nail enamel bottle before
putting the lid on.
• Maintain a clean and tidy work area.
• The therapist must wash the hands with soap or
hand wash before and after each treatment.
• Sterilise all tools before and after use or dispose
them of, depending on their type.
Emery board
It has two sides — a coarse side for filing the nails and a fine side
for shaping and bevelling the nails. Emery boards are difficult
to clean, although some manufacturers have developed special
cleansers for this purpose.
Orange stick
The two ends of an orange stick have different purposes. The
pointed side is used to apply cuticle or buffing cream. The
other side, when tipped with a cotton wool, can be used to
clean under the free edge, remove excess enamel and ease
the cuticle.
Cuticle knife
It is used to push back the cuticles and remove dead cells from
the nail area.
Cuticle nipper
It is used to remove hangnails and dead skin cells around the
cuticles.
Nail scissors
These are used to cut the nails.
Toenail clippers
These are used to cut and shorten the toenails prior to filing.
Nail buffer
It is a pad covered with chamois leather and has a handle. It is
used in conjunction with a buffing paste. Buffing adds sheen to
nails, stimulates blood circulation and growth at the matrix. It
is used in pedicure and manicure, or when nail varnish is not
applied. To clean the nail buffer, wipe it with an appropriate
cleansing solution.
3-way buffer
It is used to smoothen the nails and remove longitudinal and
horizontal lines on it, if any. Wipe the 3-way buffer between
uses with an appropriate cleansing solution.
Hoof stick
It is, usually, made of plastic but may be wooden too, having
a rubber end to push back the cuticles. It is pointed at one
end and may be tipped with cotton wool to clean under free
edge. When using from nail-to-nail, clean it with a steriliser.
On completion of the treatment, sterilise the hoof stick in a
cold sterilising solution.
Pumice stone
It is a coarse stone used in pedicure to remove dead skin cells
from the soles of the feet.
Contra-indications
A contra-indication is a reason, symptom or situation
that prevents the entire or part of a treatment from
being carried out safely.
Classification of contra-indications
• Contra-indications that prevent treatment
(cannot treat)
• Contra-indications that restrict treatment
(work around)
Contra-indications that prevent treatment
Haemophilia
It is a rare bleeding disorder, in which blood does not
clot normally.
Weak nails
Weak nails are soft. They get split and peel off easily.
When they break, they tear and leave a jagged edge.
This, usually, happens when a person cleans dishes or
keeps one’s hands in water for a long time. The nails
absorb the water, thereby, expanding the nail bed. When
the water dries out, the nails contract. The constant
expanding and contracting eventually weakens the nails.
Brittle nails
Brittle nails snap and are hard to bend. They tend to
crack easily. A common reason for such a condition is
the lack of moisture in nails as opposed to weak nails
that have too much moisture content.
Ridged nails
Ridged nails are characterised by the appearance of
vertical and horizontal ridges in fingernails, which are
mainly due to nutritional deficiency (Fig. 3.13). Vertical
lines on nails are common. These often get severe with
Fig. 3.13: Ridged nails —
horizontal and vertical age as nails retain more moisture with aging. Horizontal
ridges are more likely to signal a problem. Beau’s lines
is a condition characterised by indentations across
the nail bed and is a sign of disrupted nail growth due
to illness.
Overgrown cuticles
Cuticles grow at a fast pace and may cover a major
portion of the nail, making it prone to bacterial
infections, hangnails, split cuticles and other problems.
Manicure procedure
Manicure consists of various procedures, such as filing
the nails, shaping the free edges, massaging the hands
and application of nail polish. The basic processes for
manicure and pedicure are the same. Before starting a
treatment, one must:
• ensure that the equipment to be used is sterilised,
and all material and products required in the
process are organised at an accessible place.
Manicure steps
Step 1: During consultation, discuss the needs of (b)
the client and adapt the service to suit the person’s
conditions and expectations. Agree on the preferred
nail length and shape, and the type of nail polish
required. If the client has no contra-indication, start
the treatment.
Step 2: Request the client to choose the kind of manicure (c)
Nail shapes
Each person’s nail features are unique. Nails vary in
shapes and sizes. One will find people with long fingers
and wide nail beds or short fingers and short nail
beds, and other combinations. The five shapes that are
common and preferred by customers are — square,
round, oval, squoval and pointed.
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Aftercare advice
To ensure that the effect of manicure lasts longer, follow
these guidelines.
• Give enough time to the nails to dry after manicure.
• While doing household works, such as gardening
or cleaning the dishes, wear waterproof gloves.
• Always dry the hands after washing them.
• Hand creams must be used regularly to keep the
skin soft and protected.
• Always apply base coat under the nail polish to
prevent staining.
• Apply top coat over the nail polish to prevent
chipping of the nail paint.
• Use an acetone-free nail polish remover.
• Never use metal files as these may damage the nails.
Fig. 3.18: Apply moisturiser to • Keep workable length of the nails as very long
keep the hands hydrated
nails cause problems and might get damaged.
• Use cuticle cream or oil the hands regularly to
moisturise dry cuticles (Fig. 3.18).
• Drink adequate water and eat well to maintain a
healthy skin and nail condition (Fig. 3.19).
• Do simple hand exercises to keep the joints supple
for smooth movements.
• Avoid using hard soaps and detergents for
washing hands.
• Avail manicure every 2 to 4 weeks for soft and
Fig. 3.19: Drink plenty of water
shiny hands.
Activity 1
Identify the different equipment and material used in manicure.
Material required: chart paper, pictures of equipment and
material used in manicure, glue stick, pen, pencil and eraser
Procedure
Activity 2
Role-play on manicure.
Material required: entire manicure set-up, notebook and pen
Procedure
Session 3: Pedicure
Pedicure is a service aimed at improving the appearance
of the feet and toenails. Pedicure has many health
benefits, including prevention of nail diseases and
disorders, cosmetic and therapeutic benefits.
Pedicure involves working on toenails
and removing dead skin cells at the sole of
the feet using a rough stone called ‘pumice
stone’ and other implements. These days,
leg care below the knee is also included in
pedicure.
Leg care includes depilation (hair
removal) by shaving, waxing or some other
technique. This is followed by granular
Fig. 3.20: Pedicure procedure exfoliation, application of moisturising
Pedicure massage
Pedicure massage follows the movement of kneading,
tapping and solling (Fig. 3.32–3.36)
• Support the ankle with one hand and effleurage
(massage involving a repeated circular movement
made with the palm) six times up to the knee with
each hand separately. Cover the front, sides and
back of the lower leg.
• This must be followed by circular finger movement
kneading the knee. Kneading is a form of massage
used to treat the muscles, and reduce stiffness
and pain.
• Give palm kneading to the calf.
• Now, give circular thumb kneading to the front of
the leg from ankle to knee.
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Aftercare advice
To ensure that the benefits of pedicure last longer, the
customer may be advised the following.
Activity
Identify contra-indications.
Material required: notebook and pen
Procedure
C. Subjective Questions
1. What is an emery board?
2. When is the base coat applied on a nail?
Types of Hair
A Beauty Therapist, providing treatment such as
‘waxing’ and ‘threading’, must understand the basic
anatomy and physiology of hair. The different types of
hair are as follows:
• Scalp hair
• Eyelashes
• Body hair
• Underarm and pubic hair
Scalp hair: It acts as heat insulator and protects
the head.
Eyelashes: This is the hair present on the eyelashes. It
prevents dust particles from entering the eye.
Body hair: Present all over the body, it acts as heat
insulator.
Underarm and pubic hair: It provides cushion against
friction caused by movement.
Hair Growth Cycle
On an average, hair grows 1.25 cm (½ inch) per month.
It is estimated that we lose 80–100 hair per day on
an average. A single strand of hair does not grow
continuously throughout life. The stages of the life cycle
of hair are as follows:
• Anagen
• Catagen
• Telogen
• Exogen
Hair to
fall out
Dermal
papilla
New hair
Anagen Catagen Telogen Return to anagen Early anagen
Anagen
During this stage, the bulb regenerates, and then,
produces a hair strand. This is the stage during which
the hair follicle is active and the hair grows continuously.
The stage lasts for 2–7 years. New hair in the early
anagen stage grows faster than the old hair. The average
growth being 1.25 cm per month.
Catagen
The next stage of the hair growth cycle is called ‘catagen’.
This is the transitional phase, which lasts for 2–3
weeks. During this cycle, the hair follicle undergoes a
phase of change and the hair does not grow. New cells
are formed. Here, the follicles retract and start their
upward migration.
Exogen
After the resting period, follicles begin to grow. When the
follicle reaches its full length, new hair starts growing.
Session 1: Waxing
Waxing is a temporary hair removal
technique, wherein warm or cold wax is used
to remove hair from the desired area. The
wax is applied directly to the skin and then
pulled back. The unwanted hair is pulled out
along with the wax. Most popular areas for
waxing are eyebrows, upper lip, pubic area,
back, arms, legs and underarms. However,
any area on the body can be waxed. Fig. 4.2: Waxing of the arm
Benefits
Waxing has several benefits compared to other hair
removal techniques. It is an effective method to remove
large amount of unwanted hair at one go. Hair growth
in waxed areas does not happen for 2–8 weeks. When
hair is shaved or removed using a depilatory cream,
the hair is removed at the surface rather than the root,
and within few days, the hair is visible on the surface.
With these methods, hair tends to grow back in rough
stubble form. Areas that are repeatedly waxed over long
periods of time often exhibit re-growth that is softer.
Drawback
Waxing, however, has several drawbacks. It can be
painful when the strip is put on the area where wax
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Contra-indications
Before starting the treatment, we must make sure
that the area where waxing has to be done is free from
contra-indications. Some of the contra-indications are:
• Recent scar tissue
• Hypersensitive skin
• Cuts or abrasions
• Bruise in or around the area to be waxed
• Allergy to any product a therapist may be using
(like rosin found in sticking plasters and wax)
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Material required
The following tools, equipment and material are needed
for waxing.
• Heating unit
• Wax
• Waxing strips — muslin and fibre
• Apron for the therapist
• Disposable gloves
• Plastic and paper sheet (to cover the couch and
surrounding area)
• Disposable clothing or apron for the client
• Antiseptic lotion (to clean and remove oil from the
client’s skin)
• Purified, non-perfumed powder (to dry the skin
and hair)
• Cotton wool (for applying products)
• Scissors (to cut long hair or strips)
• Tweezers (for removal of stray hair)
• Spatulas (to apply the wax)
• Tissues
• Soothing lotion
• Barrier cream
• Orange stick
Types of waxing
There are two types of waxing — hot and cold.
Hot waxing
This is the most common type of waxing
offered by salons. It involves heating up of
the wax and applying it on the body part
where the unwanted hair is to be waxed. The
wax sets on the skin. In this method, either
Fig. 4.5: Hot wax a strip of paper or cloth is gently put over the
Soft waxing
It is also known as ‘strip waxing’ and includes Fig. 4.6: Strip or soft waxing
spreading a thin layer of hot wax on to the
skin. A strip of paper or cloth is put on the
wax and pulled off in the direction opposite to
the hair growth pattern, taking the hair along
with it. It is mostly used on larger areas like
arms and legs.
Hard waxing
It is used in smaller and sensitive areas like
upper lip, underarms and pubic area. In this
method, warm wax is applied directly on the Fig. 4.7: Using hard wax on the upper lip
skin, and given some time to cool and solidify.
It is, then, pulled in the direction opposite to
that of hair growth, pulling out the unwanted
hair. It does not harm the skin as this type of
wax only binds to the hair and not to the skin.
Fruit waxing
It is similar to hard waxing and mostly
recommended for sensitive skin. This type of
wax is beneficial for the skin as it is rich in
anti-oxidants and vitamins because of fruit
Fig. 4.8: Chocolate waxing of the leg
ingredients present in it, such as berries, plum,
etc. It is gentle on the skin, and hence, costlier.
Chocolate waxing
It is rich in antioxidants due to the presence of
chocolate in it. It also nourishes the skin as it
contains glycerin, and oils like almonds, soya
bean, etc. It does not lead to inflammation or
redness and is gentle on the skin. It is costlier.
Sugar waxing
It is a mixture of sugar, lemon and hot water.
Fig. 4.9: Sugar waxing of the leg
It pulls the hair in the same way as other types
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Drawbacks
• It is painful as it is done on the face, which has
sensitive and delicate skin.
• It leads to redness as an immediate effect but it
reduces after a short while.
• It can lead to ingrown hair if not done correctly.
• It can lead to infections, irritation, burns or
allergic reactions, if done incorrectly.
Limitations
• It can be done only over a suitable length of hair
(at least 1 cm long).
• It cannot be done on moisturised skin.
• No oil or lotion must be applied on the face on the
day of waxing.
• It must not be done over cuts, wound pimples
or acnes.
Alternative hair removal procedures
Wet shaving Fig. 4.13: Wet shaving
Epilator
It is like an electric razor but does not cut the hair
rather pulls them out of the follicles. It has a lasting
effect and the new growth is finer. The hair removal
process is time-consuming as an epilator cannot pull
a large amount of hair at once. The hair must be a
little longer so that an epilator is able to pull them
Fig. 4.16: Using an epilator
out. It is expensive than other methods.
for hair removal
Laser
The hair follicles are targeted by a laser that passes
a pulsating light beam through the skin. Primarily,
the pigment at the base of the follicle, i.e., ‘melanin’
gets targeted by intense heat from the laser and
prevents hair growth. However, it is not a permanent
solution and leads only to hair reduction. Also, there
are risks of blistering, scarring or change in the
skin colour. However, these are rare. Professional
Fig. 4.17: Laser procedure for
hair reduction treatments can be painful but specialists may apply
a topical anesthetic.
Tweezing
Using tweezers does not require any professional
training. It helps pull out the hair from the root.
It can only be used in case of less or random hair
growth. However, the procedure will be difficult and
Fig. 4.18: Tweezing for facial
time-consuming in case of removing hair from an
hair removal area having dense growth.
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(a) (b)
Fig. 4.22 (a and b): Aftercare tweezing and moisturising
Aftercare advice
Provide these advice to the client after the procedure.
• Wash the hands, and then, apply an antiseptic
cream or lotion on the treated skin for soothing
it. Avoid touching the area with unclean hands.
• Avoid using deodorant, perfume or powder on the
treated area.
• Avoid taking hot or bubble shower for at least
48 hours as it can cause irritation.
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Activity
Perform waxing of the arm.
Material required: heating unit, wax, disposable cloth or apron,
cotton strips, tweezers, spatula, powder, cotton, antiseptic
lotion, disposable gloves, waste bin, towel and jewellery bowl
Procedure
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Session 2: Threading
Threading is the most common method of removing
facial hair. Threading of eyebrows, forehead and above
the upper lip is the most common but it can be done
on other areas of the face as well. Like other depilation
procedures, threading can sometimes cause redness
and rashes.
Benefits
• Threading is suitable for smaller areas like
forehead, eyebrows, above the upper lip, chin and
other areas on the face.
• Threading is, generally, done to give shape to
the eyebrows.
• It is less time-consuming than waxing.
• New hair growth after threading is finer as
compared to the one after waxing
• It is suitable for almost all skin types.
Fig. 4.23: Threading for shaping • No chemical is used in threading.
the eyebrows • Hair growth is slow after threading.
Material required
• Thread (24–30 inches long)
• Eyebrow brush (to brush the eyebrow hair)
• Scissors (for trimming the eyebrows)
• Tweezers (for finishing and pulling out stray hair)
• Cotton
• Powder
Threading technique
A cotton thread of 0.3–0.5 mm width is required for
threading. The length of the thread must be between
24 and 30 inches. A beginner is required to use shorter
length of thread for practising. An expert can use a
longer thread. Threading is mostly done on the forehead,
eyebrows, upper lip, other areas on the face and chin.
(a)
Twist snags hair
Knot
(b)
Fig. 4.24 (a and b): Method for holding the thread for carrying out threading
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Fig. 4.29: Square-shaped Fig. 4.30: Long-shaped Fig. 4.31: Heart-shaped Fig. 4.32: Diamond-shaped
face face face face
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Diamond face
This face shape is angular, being the widest at the
cheekbones and narrower at the forehead, as well as,
the jaw line. Curved or round brows can make the face
appear less angular. Centre arched eyebrows will make
it appear less widened.
Activity
Perform threading of the upper lip.
Material required: cotton thread, talcum powder, lotion or
astringent, scissors, tweezers
Procedure
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D. Subjective Questions
1. Describe the benefits of threading.
2. Write any three precautions that need to be taken while
performing threading.
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Glossary
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Session 4: Bleaching
A. Fill in the Blanks
1. bleaching 2. patch 3. watering 4. ammonia
Session 2: Manicure
A. Multiple Choice Questions
1. (d) 2. (b) 3. (d) 4. (a)
5. (c) 6. (d) 7. (a)
B. Fill in the Blanks
1. cuticle 2. filing 3. pumice 4. ridges
Session 3: Pedicure
A. Multiple Choice Questions
1. (a) 2. (d) 3. (b) 4. (b)