The View from Borobudur

hitecture

The monument is located in the Kedu Valley, in the southern part of Central Java, at the
centre of the island of Java, Indonesia. Very few know that the temple is built out of volcanic
stones - which were formed due to the eruption of Mount Merapi.
 When one first sets sight on the temple it is the largesse of the structure that is shocking. One
can hardly get the entire structure in one frame of the camera. From the entrance towards the
temple compound is a walk of about 400 mts so you immediately don't get a view of the
temple, its hidden within the extensive foliage of trees which stand like guardians of the
temple. There is no written record of who built the Borobudur or of its intended purpose. The
construction time has been estimated by comparison between carved reliefs on the temple's
hidden foot and the inscriptions commonly used in royal charters during the 8th and 9th
centuries. Borobudur was likely founded around 800 CE. This corresponds to the period
between 760 and 830 CE, the peak of the Sailendra dynasty rule of Mataram kingdom in
central Java,when it was under the influence of the Srivijayan Empire. The construction has
been estimated to have taken 75 years and was completed during the reign
of Samaratungga in 825. In Indonesia, ancient temples are referred to as Candi.

Between the 8th-9th century the Buddhists worshipped the temple. Sometime during the 11th
century,1006, the volcanic Mount Merapi erupted and shook the foundations of the temple.
People around the region moved to East Java which led to the temple being abandoned. At
the same time, there was a overall decline of Hindu kingdoms (14th century) in Java and the
Javanese conversion to Islam led to the temple being lost in the jungles. Worldwide
knowledge of its existence was sparked in 1814 by Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, then the
British ruler of Java, who was advised of its location by farmers and native Indonesians. The
clearing of the forest which covered the carved stone structure (i.e. the temple) itself took 2
years. Borobudur has since been preserved through several restorations. First restoration was
performed from 1907-1911. The largest restoration project was undertaken between 1975 and
1982 by the Indonesian government and UNESCO, following which the monument was
listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The temple has 2,672 relief panels and 504 Buddha statues.

An inscription is written on the topmost brick,'Virupa' meaning ugly, this panel shows the
example or consequence of doing bad action or karma leading to suffering. The above picture
is that of lepers.
The temple consists of nine stacked platforms, six square and three circular, topped by a huge
dome.

The structure is based on the Buddhist philosophy and celebrates the three different phases of
life as mentioned in their scriptures -- Kamadhatu ( world of desires), Rupadhatu (world of
forms) and Arupadhatu (world of formlessness). These worlds are described in-depth through
drawings in the relief panels and balustrades across the walls of the platforms

All the panels in the Kamadhatu (world of desires) shows examples of good karma (for
example taking care of the sick and old, taking care of children) and bad karma (drinking,
smoking, lust for other women etc.) The paintings clearly portray the consequences of bad
action leading to suffering and the overall message is the need to control your desires and the
need to free yourself from suffering and/or karmas, so that you can move up, towards the
next level. Another example of good karma is to listen to wise men and seek their advice and
direction in life. At the Karmawibangga level there are 160 panels. The next two levels show
the Jataka tales and the life of the Buddha in detail.
 Nature is the real god sometimes I think. You can see the wear and tear which is evident in
the paintings on the wall. The temple is however still here, surviving a volcanic eruption,
rain, thunder, storm, surviving being abandoned and later found by humanity. It stands
together, brick by brick, telling different stories about following your dharma, doing what is
right, of acknowledging and worshipping our ancestors, of the wisdom of ancient times and
stories. And ultimately leading to the path of attaining Moksha.
Touching the stones of a different, time, era, moment...
 In the Rupadhatu level there are 432 Dhyani Buddha statues. Higher the terraces smaller the
number of statues in each terrace. The statues are placed inside niches.

The Buddhas at the different levels are seated in lotus position but show a variety of
hand mudras (gestures) each of which have a different meaning. Following are
the examples - Bhumisparsamudra (earth is called as a witness), Waramudra (giving
boon/blessing), Dyanamudra (silent/meditation), Abhayamudra (unafraid of
danger), Witarkamudra (giving lecture/speech), Dharmacakramudra (rolling the wheel of
dharma - (law or rightful principle). Here are the pictures of the various hand mudras
 Buddhist temples are very different from Hindu temples as Hindus believe in idol worship.
So we tend to pray, worship and offer flowers, sweetmeats to the idols, following a strict
protocol of removing our shoes outside the temple doorstep. However Buddhist temples have
no such protocols. Infact they don't even have an idol inside the temple sometimes. Buddhist
temples are deeply entrenched in spiritually and divert their devotees towards meditation,
internal contemplation and reflection.
If you wish to know more about Buddha one of the best sources is to read the Jataka
tales these are stories which we grew up on as children, just re-visiting them again or picking
up these books (if you are new to them) helps us delve into the previous lives of Buddha in
both human and animal form. He is born as a bird, elephant, outcast, king etc in his past lives
but in each and every form there runs a common thread of showing compassion and kindness
to fellow beings, that eventually led him to become The Buddha as we know today.
May we find the peace that is prevalent deep within each one of us.
Structures that make you wonder in amazement!
As if pieces of puzzles put together...............
 This is the only stupa that is left opened so that we can see Buddha's idol which is present in
each and every closed stupa.

At the Arupadhatu...(the world of formlessness)

 All Buddhist temples that we have visited so far tend to reiterate the same message over and
over again. Look inside. Peek inside. Inside is the real world. Outside is just an illusion.
Inside the stupa
 I was genuinely surprised to find out that the temple here at Borobudur has no
magnificent Buddha to show off or any such thing. What is special about the temple infact is
that the Buddha idols are inside the stupas! On top of the temple is this large dome, but the
temple is inside out (my first such experience ever!) where all methods of worship seems to
have gone all topsy-turvy! So after reaching the top we found
ourselves doing parikrama around this dome (7 times).
The central dome is surrounded by 72 Buddha statues each seated inside a perforated stupa.

The only Buddha that is seen open in one of the stupas...rear view.
They look like mini bells...

The great big stupa...at the centre and the top of Borobudur temple
Totally humbled by such great a temple structure.
Preparations are ongoing for the Vesak day celebrations in the night.
The temple has a unique Javanese Buddhist architecture (influences of the Gupta art from
India can be seen.)
I tried to think about those great artisans of the 8th century who were working at the temple
and carved such a beautiful structure. They spoke yes they did showing us the path of
devotion, of reflection, of care and compassion through their works of art, through the relief
paintings, Buddha structures and the coming together of this huge and gigantic temple. The
message they were trying to convey us matters even now, during this day and age. Isn't it
awesome?
May peace reside among all of us :-)
Rajat (3.5 yrs) surprisingly was as curious as we were about the temple and its majestic
structure. He went on exploring one level after another without much complaint. Though it
was very hot, we did carry a small hat for him (there are hat sellers outside the temple) and a
huge bottle of water and packets of biscuit. He walked all those steps and not once asked to
be carried up. We did not even carry his stroller this time. He has outgrown it
anyways. Children can really surprise us in unexpected ways. Kudos to you Rajat!
The Photographer who gave it his all
This is our friendly guide Maki who had lots of information to share about the temple.

This is the temple structure at Hotel Manohara the hotel that is closest to the temple. You can
clearly see the six square and three circular platforms here in the structure with the dome at
the top. Sunrise views are highly recommended and the temple is accessible (at dawn) from
the hotel only. You have to be here by 4 am and the hotel guides you further.

There is also a museum within the premises of the temple. You can visit if time and energy
permits.
A few more pictures which I shared on my personal FB page :-
 Trivia about the Shailendra Dynasty - They were promoters of Mahayana Buddhism and built
many Buddhist monuments around the region of Central Java during the 8th century.
Scriptures suggest that the family were initially Hindus before converting to Mahayana
Buddhism. You can read more about the Shailendra dynasty here.

References

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Borobudur
http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/592

Posted 16th May 2017 by Rups

Labels: Borobudur Buddhist temples Buddhist temples in Indonesia Buddhist temples in
Yogyakarta Indonesia Temples in Yogyakarta UNESCO World heritage site Yogyakarta

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Memoirs of a Traveller

Mosaic
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 Kuala Lumpur : Truly Cosmpoliton
Holiday Inn Krabi 2019
The Elements Krabi Dec 2019
Revisiting Railay and Phra Nang cave Krabi 2019
Our First Hike experience at Krabi Dec 2019
Aaonang moments Krabi 2019
Nabadwip moments - temple visits
Nabadwip moments Fun with cousins
Buddhist temple visit at Bintan
Mangroove boatride at Bintan
Bintan moments
Chandannagar moments
So I visited Chandan nagore in May 2019 for a wedding of my cousin. I love visiting this
place where my maternal uncle and his family live in a quiet neighbourhood.
Phranang Cave
Phranang cave

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