2016 Ducati Hyperstrada

2016 DUCATI Hyperstrada (E4) Workshop
Manual
HYM(E4).01 - General
Symbols - Abbreviations - References
Product specifications
Dangerous products - warnings
General maintenance instructions
General safety rules
HYM(E4).02 - Model-specific information

Model identification
Identification data
HYM(E4).03 - Technical data

Technical specifications
Lights/instrument panel
Injection system
Fuel system
Injection-ignition system
Charging system/generator
Hydraulic brakes
Rear suspension
Rear wheel
Front suspension
Front wheel
Cooling system
Gearbox
Cylinder/piston
Crankshaft
Timing system/valves
Transmission
Colours
General
Dimensions
Dimensions
Fuel, lubricants and other fluids
Tightening torque settings
Engine tightening torque values
Frame tightening torque values
Service tools
Diagnosis special tools
Frame special tools
Engine special tools
HYM(E4).04 - Maintenance operations

Vehicle pre-delivery
Scheduled maintenance chart
Operations to be carried out by the customer
Operations to be carried out by the dealer
Maintenance operations
Checking the tightening of the rear brake disc screws and of the phonic wheel (with rear wheel
shaft removal)
Adjusting the rear shock absorber
Adjusting the position of the gearchange pedal and rear brake pedal
Adjusting the clutch lever and front brake lever
Checking rear brake pad wear and replacing brake pads
Checking front brake pad wear and replacing brake pads
Adjusting the chain tension
Adjusting the steering head bearing play
Clutch control cable adjustment
Changing the fluid in the rear brake system
Changing the fluid in the front brake system
Change coolant
Checking coolant level
Changing and cleaning the air filters
Change spark plugs
Change timing belts
Checking valve clearance
Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge
Check engine oil level
Accessories
Rear grab handle kit
Front plexiglass kit
Side pannier kit
HYM(E4).05 - Fairing
Rear-view mirrors
Refitting the rear-view mirrors
Removing the rear-view mirrors
Headlight fairing
Refitting the headlight fairing
Removing the headlight fairing
Fairings
Refitting the fairings
Removing the fairings
Seat
Refitting the rear side body panels
Removing the rear side body panels
Refitting the seat
Removing the seat
Front and rear mudguard
Refitting the rear mudguard
Removing the rear mudguard
Refitting the front mudguard
Removing the front mudguard
HYM(E4).06 - Electric system and engine management

Wiring diagram
Wirings not branched
Technological Dictionary
Acronyms and abbreviations used in the manual
Branch 9
Branch 8
Branch 7
Branch 6
Branch 5
Branch 4
Branch 3
Branch 2
Branch 1
Routing of wiring on frame
Fuse box key
Key to wiring diagram
Key to wiring diagram
Charge system - Battery
Rectifier-regulator
Generator
Battery
Topping up the electrolyte
Recharging the battery
Checking the battery charging system
Electric starter
Solenoid starter
Starter motor
Electric starting system
Lighting
Replacing the tail light bulbs
Tail light
Aligning the headlight
Replacing the headlight bulbs
Headlight
Indicators
Checking the indicators and lights
Handlebar controls: controls
Right-hand switch
Left-hand switch
Safety and protection sensors: controls
Horn
Checking the fuses
Side stand switch
Air temperature sensor
Engine temperature sensor
Clutch switch
Oil pressure sensor
Gear/neutral sensor
Rear stop switch
Front stop switch
Electrical components: checks
Exhaust valve motor
Solenoid valves
Coils
Electronic components: checks
Accelerator Position System (APS)
Oxygen sensors
Anti-lock Braking System (ABS)
CAN line
Ducati Traction Control (DTC)
Rpm sensor (pick-up)
Electronic Throttle Valve (ETV)
Black Box System (BBS)
Map sensor
Engine control unit (ECU)
HYM(4).06.061.022
Instrumentation: Dashboard
Restoring motorcycle operation via the PIN CODE
Error warnings
LCD - Main functions
Instrument panel
HYM(4).06.070.007
HYM(4).06.070.005
HYM(4).06.070.004
HYM(E4).07 - Chassis
Front wheel
Refitting the front wheel
Overhauling the front wheel
Removing the front wheel
Rear wheel
Refitting the rear wheel
Overhauling the rear wheel
Removing the rear wheel
Front brake control
Refitting the front brake system
Refitting the brake discs
Overhauling the front brake components
Removing the brake discs
Removing the front brake system
Refitting the front brake master cylinder
Removing the front brake master cylinder
Rear brake
Refitting the rear brake calliper
Removing the rear brake disc
Removing the rear brake calliper
Refitting the rear brake control
Disassembling the rear brake control
Removing the rear brake control
ABS system information
ABS system deactivation
ABS system operation information
Operating principle
ABS system components
Routing wiring harnesses/hoses
Refitting the ABS control unit
Removing the ABS control unit
Changing the rear phonic wheel sensor
Changing the front phonic wheel sensor
ABS component maintenance
Bleeding of the ABS hydraulic system
Adjusting the AIR-GAP of phonic wheel sensor
Handlebar assembly: hand guard - throttle control
Refitting the throttle control
Removing the throttle control
Refitting the handlebar
Removing the handlebar
Reassembling the hand guards
Removing the hand guards
Handlebar assembly: clutch control
Refitting the clutch assembly
Removing the clutch assembly
Handlebar assembly: ignition switch
Refitting the ignition switch
Removing the ignition switch
Gear selector control
Refitting the gear change control
Disassembling the gear change control
Removing the gear change control
Fork - steering head: front fork
Refitting the front fork
Overhauling the front fork
Removing the front fork
Fork - steering head: steering assembly
Refitting the steering tube components
Removing the steering tube components
Steering angle adjustment
Adjusting the steering head bearing clearance
Rear shock absorber assembly
Refitting the rear suspension
Overhauling the rear shock absorber
Removing the rear shock absorber
Rear suspension system
Swinging arm
Refitting the rear swinging arm
Overhauling the rear swinging arm
Inspecting the swinging arm shaft
Removing the swinging arm
Refitting the rear wheel eccentric hub and rear wheel shaft
Removing the rear wheel eccentric hub and the rear wheel shaft
Final drive
Lubricating the chain
Washing the chain
Refitting the rear sprocket
Replacing the rear sprocket
Refitting the front sprocket
Removing the front sprocket
Inspection of the final drive
Footrest support
Refitting the footpegs
Removing the footpegs
Stands
Refitting the centre stand
Removing the centre stand
Refitting the side stand
Removing the side stand
Inspecting the frame
Refitting the rear subframe
Refitting the structural parts and frame
Checking the frame
Removing the rear subframe
Removing structural components and frame
Tail light - number plate holder
Refitting the tail light
Removing the tail light
Refitting the number plate holder
Removing the number plate holder
Electrical components compartment
Refitting the electric components compartment
Removing the electric components compartment
HYM(E4).08 - Fuel/Exhaust system

Fuel tank
Refitting the fuel tank
Refitting the fuel tank flange
Removing the fuel tank flange
Refitting the tank filler plug
Removing the tank filler plug
Removing the fuel tank
Airbox â€“ throttle body
Refitting the throttle body
Removing the throttle body
Refitting the airbox
Removing the airbox
Air intake
Refitting the secondary air system
Removing the secondary air system
Refitting the air filters
Removing the air filters
Exhaust system
Refitting the exhaust system
Removing the exhaust system
Refitting the silencer
Removing the silencer
Canister filter
Refitting the Canister filter
Removing the canister filter
Canister filter system
HYM(E4).09 - Engine
Removing - refitting the complete engine
Refitting the engine
Removing the engine
Lubrication system: oil pump
Reassembling the oil pump
Disassembling the oil pump
Refitting the oil pump
Removing the oil pump
Lubrication system: oil cooler
Refitting the lubrication system
Inspecting the oil cooler
Removing the lubrication system
Cooling system: water tank
Refitting the water tank
Removing the water tank
Cooling system: water radiator
Refitting the cooling system hoses and unions
Removing the cooling system hoses and unions
Fitting the radiator
Replacing the electric fan
Removing the radiator
Cooling system: water pump
Refitting the water pump
Removing the water pump
Cylinder head assembly: Checks and adjustments
Checking the engine timing
Checking valve lift
Checking and adjusting the valve clearance
Cylinder head assembly: timing system
Refitting the timing outer covers
Refitting the mobile tensioner/timing belt
Refitting the cylinder heads pulleys/idler pulleys
Reassembling the camshaft pulleys
Refitting the tensioner pins
Refitting the timing layshaft pulley
Removing the timing layshaft pulleys
Disassembling the camshaft pulleys
Removing the tensioner pins
Removing the cylinder head pulley/fixed tensioner
Removing the mobile tensioner/timing belt
Removing the timing belt covers
Cylinder head assembly: camshafts
Refitting the intake manifold and water union
Removing the intake manifold and water union
Refitting the camshafts
Check of the camshafts and supports
Removing the camshafts
Cylinder head assembly: valves - rocker arms
Reassembling the cylinder head
Refitting the cylinder heads
Overhauling the cylinder head components
Removing the valve rocker arms
Removing the valves
Removing the cylinder heads
Cylinder/piston assembly
Refitting the cylinder/piston assembly
Overhauling the cylinder/piston components
Removing the cylinder/piston assembly
Clutch assembly: clutch
Refitting the clutch
Checking and overhauling the components
Removing the clutch
Description of the clutch assembly
Clutch assembly: clutch cover
Refitting the clutch cover
Reassembling the clutch cover
Removing the clutch cover
Clutch assembly: primary drive gears
Refitting the primary drive gears and checking backlash
Removing the primary drive gears
Gearbox assembly: linkages
Refitting the gearchange mechanism
Refitting the gear interlock plunger and ratchet
Disassembling gear interlock plunger and ratchet
Removing the gearchange mechanism
Gearbox assembly: gearbox shafts
Reassembling the gearbox assembly
Reassembling the gearbox shafts
Inspecting the fork selector drum
Inspecting the gear selector forks
Overhauling the gearbox
Disassembling the gearbox shafts
Removing the gearbox assembly
Flywheel - generator
Refitting the flywheel/generator assembly
Overhauling the flywheel/generator assembly
Removing the flywheel/generator assembly
Refitting the generator cover
Disassembling the generator cover
Removing the generator cover
Crankcase: external components
Refitting the starter motor
Removing the starter motor
Refitting the starter motor gear
Removing the starter motor idler gear
Refitting the timing gears
Removing the timing gears
Refitting the external components
Removing outer components
Crankcase: casings
Main bearing shells
Closing the crankcase
Shimming the shafts
Reassembling the crankcase halves
Main bearings
Overhauling the crankcase halves
Separating the crankcase halves
Crankcase: connecting rod assembly
Reassembling the connecting rod assembly
Overhauling the connecting rod assembly
Disassembling the connecting rod assembly
Removing the connecting rod assembly
Symbols - Abbreviations - References
To allow quick and easy consultation, this manual uses graphic symbols to highlight situations in which maximum
care is required, as well as practical advice or information.
Pay attention to the meaning of the symbols since they serve to avoid repeating technical concepts or safety
warnings throughout the text. The symbols should therefore be seen as real "reminders".
Please refer to this page whenever in doubt as to their meaning.
The terms right-hand and left-hand refer to the motorcycle viewed from the riding position.
Warning
Failure to comply with these instructions may put you at risk, and could lead to severe injury or even death.
Important
Failure to follow the instructions in text marked with this symbol can lead to serious damage to the motorcycle and
its components.
Note
This symbol indicates additional useful information for the current operation.
Smaltimento
This symbol supplies information on the disposal of a substance/material.
Product specifications
Symbols in the diagram show the type of threadlocker, sealant or lubricant to be used at the points indicated. The
table below shows the symbols used and the specifications of the various products.

Symbol Specifications Recommended
product

LOCTITE

LOCK 1 Low-strength threadlocker. Loctite 222

LOCK 2 Medium-strength threadlocker, compatible with oil. Loctite 243 (or
THREE BOND
TB1324)

LOCK 3 High-strength threadlocker for threaded parts. Loctite 270

LOCK 4 Surface sealant resistant to high mechanical stress and solvents. Resists high Loctite 510
temperatures (up to 200 °C) and pressures up to 350 bar; fills gaps up to 0.4
mm.

LOCK 5 Permanent adhesive for free sliding cylindrical couplings or threaded couplings Loctite 648
on mechanical parts, coaxial parts. High resistance to mechanical stress and Loctite 128455
solvents. Temperature range: ‑55 to 175 °C. (ex. 648 BV)

LOCK 6 Pipe sealant for pipes and medium to large fittings. For water and gases Loctite 577
(except oxygen). Maximum filling capacity: 0.40 mm (diameter clearance).

LOCK 7 Instant adhesive for rubber and plastics with elastomer charged ethylic base. Loctite 480

LOCK 8 High-strength retaining compound for threaded parts, bearings, bushes, Loctite 601 (As an
splines and keys. Operating temperature range: ‑55 to 150 °C. alternative THREE
BOND TB1378B)

LOCK 9 Medium-strength threadlocker. Loctite 406

LOCK Product for metal parts to seal and lock freely sliding cylindrical couplings or Loctite 128443
10 threaded couplings. Resistant to high mechanical stress and high (former 648 AV)
temperature, excellent resistance to solvents and chemical attack.

LOCK Medium-strength threadlocker. Loctite 401
11

LOCK Instant adhesive gel offering tensile/shear strength. Loctite 454 gel
12

OTHER SEALING AGENTS

DUCATI sealing compound. THREE BOND 1215

Sealing compound THREE BOND
1207B

One-component sealing compound SIKAFLEX 221

Exhaust pipe sealing paste. Self-sealing paste hardens when heated and Holts Firegum
resists temperatures exceeding 1000 °C.

Sealing compound. BOSTIK clear
universal silicone

Sealing compound. Ser Sil Silver

VEHICLE/ENGINE GREASE

GREASE Multipurpose, medium fibre, lithium grease. SHELL Alvania R3
A

GREASE Molybdenum disulphide grease, high mechanical stress and high temperature SHELL Retinax
B resistant. HDX2 or SHELL
Gadius S2 V220 AD
2

GREASE Bearing/joint grease for parts subject to prolonged mechanical stress. SHELL Retinax LX2
C Temperature range: -10 to 110 °C.

GREASE Protective grease, with anti-corrosive and waterproofing properties. SHELL Retinax HD2
D

GREASE Grease PANKL - PLB 05
E

GREASE Grease (Vehicle): OPTIMOL
F - PASTE WHITE T
(Engine): PANKL —
PLB03

GREASE Grease PANKL - PLB07
G

GREASE Grease KLÜBER
H STABURAGS NBU
30 PTM

GREASE Copper grease CUPRUM 320
I

GREASE Grease FLUOROCARBON
L GEL 880

GREASE Grease ROCOL — DRY
M MOLY PASTE

GREASE Grease AKRAPOVIC —
N CERAMIC ANTI
SEIZE PASTE

PROTECTANTS

Spray used to protect electric systems. Eliminates moisture and condensation SHELL Advance
and provides excellent corrosion resistance. Water repellent. Contact Cleaner

Spray used to protect electric systems. Eliminates moisture and condensation SHELL Advance
and provides excellent corrosion resistance. Water repellent. Contact Cleaner

Spray used to protect electric systems. Eliminates moisture and condensation Arexons TL246
and provides excellent corrosion resistance. Water repellent.

Spray used to protect electric systems. Eliminates moisture and condensation Nyogel 760G
and provides excellent corrosion resistance. Water repellent.

LUBRICANT FOR RUBBER PARTS

Emulsion for lubrication of rubber. P 80

Concentrated lubricant for tyre installation. Michelin

Denatured alcohol. Denatured alcohol

Protection lubricant emulsion. KLUBERPLUS S
06/100

THERMAL COMPOUND

Thermal compound. HTC Electrolube

LUBRICANTS FOR MECHANICAL ELEMENTS

Engine oil (for characteristics see Fuel, lubricants and other fluids). SHELL Advance 4T
Ultra

SAE 80-90 gear oil or special products for chains with O‑rings. SHELL Advance
Chain or Advance
Teflon Chain

Dry lubricant, polymerising on contact with air. Molykote D321R
Molykote M55 Plus

Lubricant for mechanical elements. Rothen extra -
Additive

Lubricant for mechanical elements. Castor oil

DEGREASERS

All-purpose degreaser and cleaner. Arexons Fulcron

Degreaser for Pankl connecting rods (if any). Meta Clean 366

Degreasing agent. Lochim Solfast

Degreasing agent. Deta Blu

Degreasing agent. Saga Special

OTHER PRODUCTS

DOT4 special hydraulic brake fluid. SHELL Advance
Brake DOT4

Anti-freeze (nitride, amine and phosphate free) 30 to 40% + water. SHELL Advance
coolant or
Glycoshell
ABS
Antilock Braking System
BBS
Black Box System
CAN
Controller Area Network
DDA
DUCATI Data Acquisition
DSB
Dashboard
DTC
DUCATI Traction Control
ECU
Engine Control Unit
Riding Mode
The rider can choose from three different preset bike configurations (Riding Modes) and pick the one that best suits
his/her riding style or ground conditions. The Riding Modes allow the user to instantly change the engine power
delivery (ENGINE), the ABS settings, the DTC settings. Available Riding Modes:
- (Versions Hypermotard and Hyperstrada) Sport, Touring, Urban;
- (Version Hypermotard SP) Race, Sport and Wet.
Within every Riding Mode, the rider can customise any settings.

The Ducati Traction Control system (DTC) supervises the rear wheel slipping control and settings vary through
eight different levels that are programmed to offer a different tolerance level to rear wheel slipping. Each Riding
Mode features a pre-set intervention level. Level eight indicates system intervention whenever a slight slipping is
detected, while level one is for very expert riders because it is less sensitive to slipping and intervention is hence
softer.

The ABS system fitted on this vehicle is a system that actuates combined braking with anti lift-up function for the
rear wheel so as to guarantee not only a reduced stopping distance, but also a higher stability under braking. The
ABS features different levels of intervention, one associated to each Riding Mode.
Ride by Wire (RbW)

The Ride by Wire system is the electronic device that controls throttle opening and closing. Since there is no
mechanical connection between the throttle twistgrip and the throttle body, the engine control unit can adjust
power delivery by directly affecting throttle opening angle. The Ride by Wire system allows you to obtain different
power level and delivery according to the selected Riding Mode (Engine), and even to control the rear wheel
slipping (DTC).
General maintenance instructions
Useful tips
Ducati recommends you to follow the instructions below in order to prevent problems and obtain the best result:
- when diagnosing faults, primary consideration should always be given to what the customer reports about
motorcycle operation since this information can highlight faults; your questions to the customer concerning
symptoms of the fault should be aimed at clarifying the problem;
- diagnose the problem systematically and accurately before proceeding further. This manual provides the
theoretical background for troubleshooting; this basis must be combined with personal experience and
attendance at periodic training courses held by Ducati;
- repair work should be planned carefully in advance to prevent any unnecessary downtime, for example
obtaining the required spare parts or preparing the necessary tools, etc.;
- limit the number of operations needed to access the part to be repaired. Note that the disassembly procedures
in this manual describe the most efficient way to reach the part to be repaired.
General advice on repair work
- Always use top quality tools. When lifting the motorcycle, only use devices that fully comply with the relevant
European directives.
- When working on the motorcycle, always keep the tools within reach, ideally in the order required, and never
put them on the motorcycle or in hard-to-reach or inaccessible places.
- The workplace must be kept clean and tidy at all times.
- Always replace gaskets, sealing rings and split pins with new parts.
- When loosening or tightening nuts or screws, always start with the largest or start from the centre; tighten
nuts and screws to the specified torque working in a cross pattern.
- Always mark any parts and positions which might easily be confused upon reassembly.
- Use exclusively Ducati original spare parts and the recommended brands of lubricants.
- Use special tools where specified.
- Ducati Technical Bulletins often contain updated versions of the service procedures described in this manual.
Check the latest Bulletins for details.
Carbon monoxide
When a maintenance operation must be performed with the engine running, make sure that the working area is
well-ventilated. Never run the engine indoors.
Warning
Exhaust gases contain carbon monoxide, which is a poisonous gas that can cause unconsciousness or even death if
inhaled.
Run the engine outdoors or, if working indoors, use an exhaust gas extraction system.
Fuel
Always make sure the working area is well ventilated. Keep any sources of ignition, such as cigarettes, open flames
or sparks, well away from working area and fuel storage area.
Warning
Fuel is highly flammable and can explode under certain conditions. Keep away from children.
Hot parts
Warning
The engine and exhaust parts become hot when the motorcycle engine is running and will stay hot for some time
after the engine has been stopped. Wear heat-resistant gloves before handling these components or allow the
engine and exhaust system to cool down before proceeding.
Warning
The exhaust system might be hot, even after engine is switched OFF; pay particular attention not to touch exhaust
system with any body part and do not park the motorcycle next to inflammable material (wood, leaves etc.).
Used engine oil
Warning
Wear suitable gloves to work with engine oil. Keep away from children.
Brake dust
Warning
Never clean the brake assembly using compressed air or a dry brush.
Brake fluid
Warning
Spilling brake fluid onto plastic, rubber or painted parts of the motorcycle may cause damages. Protect these parts
with a clean shop cloth before proceeding to service the system. Keep away from children.
Coolant
Engine coolant contains ethylene glycol, which may ignite under particular conditions, producing invisible flames.
Although the flames from burning ethylene glycol are not visible, they are still capable of causing severe burns.
Warning
Take care not to spill engine coolant on the exhaust system or engine parts. These parts may be hot and ignite the
coolant, which will subsequently burn with invisible flames. Coolant (ethylene glycol) is irritant and poisonous when
ingested. Keep away from children. Never remove the radiator cap when the engine is hot. The coolant is under
pressure and will cause severe burns.
The cooling fan operates automatically: keep hands well clear and make sure your clothing does not snag on the
fan.
Battery
Warning
The battery gives off explosive gases; never cause sparks or allow naked flames and cigarettes near the battery.
When charging the battery, ensure that the working area is properly ventilated.
Model identification
Identification data
Each Ducati motorcycle is identified by two numbers, one for the frame and one for the engine.
Note
Please quote these numbers, which identify the motorcycle model, when ordering spare parts.
DATA STAMPED ON THE FRAME
Examples:
*ZDMBA00AA#B??????*
ZDM1YBJS?#B??????
Following is the table with the frame part numbers.

VERSION 1 2 3 4 5
EC version frame ZDM BA00AA # B ??????
FRANCE, BELGIUM version frame ZDM 1YBJS # B ??????
Key
1 Manufacturer: Ducati Motor Holding

2 Type - identical for all models
3 Model year: G for 2016 models
4 Manufacturing facility
5 Progressive serial no.
DATA STAMPED ON ENGINE

EC VERSION
Examples:
ZDM937W4*??????*
ML0937W4*??????*
Following are the tables with the engine part numbers.

VERSION 1 2 3
EC version engine ZDM 937W4 ??????
ML0 937W4 ??????
Key to engine number:
1 Manufacturer: Ducati Motor Holding

2 Engine type
USA, CAL, Canada versions
Following are the tables with the engine part numbers.

VERSION 1 2 3
USA, CAL, Canada version engine YBJ # ??????
Note
For CANADA version, also a "Manufacturer" plate is provided.
Key to engine number:
1 Engine type
2 Model year: G=2016
Lights/instrument panel
Reference Technical specifications
Headlight low / high beam H4 blue vision lamp (12V - 60/55W)
parking light No. 8 LEDs
Tail light parking light No. 6 LEDs (0.27W-13.5V)
stop indication light No. 6 LEDs (2.43W-13.5V)
Number plate light C5W (12-5W)
Front turn indicators Lamp type GE 2641A 12VRY 10W
Rear turn indicators Lamp type GE 2641A 12VRY 10W
Fuses
Front fuse box key Lights 10 A
Instrument panel 10 A
Key-1 15 A
Key-2 10 A
Key-7SM 15 A
Injection 20 A
Rear fuse box key Key-sense 7.5 A
Diagnosis 7.5 A
Black-Box System (BBS) 10 A
ABS 1 30 A
ABS 2 25 A
Alarm 10A
engine control unit 7.5 A

Injection system
Make Type
Control unit MARELLI 7SM Marelli

Fuel system
Important
Do not use any additives in fuel or lubricants. Using them could result in severe damage of the engine and
motorcycle components.
Warning
The motorcycle is only compatible with fuel having a maximum content of ethanol of 10% (E10). Using fuel with
ethanol content over 10% is forbidden. Using it could result in severe damage to the engine and motorcycle
components. Using fuel with ethanol content over 10% will make the warranty null and void.
Make Type
Unleaded fuel 95-98 RON

Fuel specifications for the US market Unleaded fuel with a minimum octane rating of 90 (RON+MON)/2
Throttle body with full Ride-by-wire system, round cross-section Ø52mm
Injectors per cylinder 1
Firing points per injector 4

Injection-ignition system
Ignition Type Electric, I.A.W.-type with inductive discharge
Starting Type Electric starter motor 12 V - 0.7 kW
Spark plugs Make and type NGK MAR9A-J
Electrode gap 0.8±0.1 mm

Charging system/generator
Battery Voltage 12 V
Charge 10 Ah
Type dry, sealed, maintenance-free
Generator (Hypermotard - Hypermotard SP) Capacity 14V-590W-35A
Generator (Hyperstrada) Capacity 14V-590W-35A

Hydraulic brakes
Separate-action anti-lock brake system operated by hall-type sensors mounted to each wheel with phonic wheel
detection: ABS can be disabled.
Reference Standard value Service limit
FRONT
Brake disc Type Semi-floating drilled dual disc
Thickness 4.5 mm 4.5 mm
Braking surface material Steel
Disc diameter 320 mm
Brake calliper Make Brembo
Type M4.32 b
Calliper cylinder diameter 32
Pad friction material TT2182 FF
Brake master cylinder Type PS 16/22
Master cylinder diameter 16 mm
REAR
Brake disc Type Drilled dual disc
Thickness 5 mm 4.5 mm (min.)
Diameter 245 mm
Brake calliper Make Brembo
Type P34e
Calliper cylinder diameter 34 mm
Pad friction material TT 2172 HH
Brake master cylinder Type PS11
Master cylinder diameter 11 mm

Rear suspension
HYPERMOTARD
Normal Seat
Type SACHS:
Progressive.
The shock absorber, adjustable for rebound and spring preload, is connected at the bottom
pivot point to a die-cast aluminium single-sided swinging arm.
Shock Stroke 61.5 mm

absorber
Wheel 150 mm
travel
Low Seat (THAI version only)
Type SACHS:
Progressive.
The shock absorber, adjustable for rebound and spring preload, is connected at the
bottom pivot point to a die-cast aluminium single-sided swinging arm.

absorber (Normal Seat)
Stroke (Low 55.5 mm

Seat)
Spring preload 0 mm (from fully uncompressed position)
Wheel travel 150 mm

(Normal Seat) 133 mm
Wheel travel
(Low Seat)
HYPERMOTARD SP
Type ÖHLINS:
Progressive.
The shock absorber, adjustable for rebound and spring preload, is connected at the bottom
pivot point to a die-cast aluminium single-sided swinging arm.

absorber
Wheel 175 mm
travel
HYPERSTRADA

Type SACHS:
Progressive.
The shock absorber, adjustable for rebound and spring preload, is connected at the
bottom pivot point to a die-cast aluminium single-sided swinging arm.

absorber (Normal Seat)
Stroke (Low 55.5 mm

Seat)
Spring preload 0 mm (from fully uncompressed position)
Wheel travel 150 mm

(Normal Seat) 133 mm
Wheel travel
(Low Seat)
Rear wheel
Minimum tread depth In the most worn part 2 mm
Tyre pressure Cold 2.5 bar (rider only)

2.9 bar (full load)
Swinging arm shaft runout On 100 mm 0.2 mm
Wheel rim runout Radial 0.8 mm 2 mm
Axial 0.5 mm 2 mm
Drive chain Make DID
Type 525VZ
No. of links 106
Important
Check and set tyre pressure when tyres are cold. To avoid front wheel rim distortion, when riding on bumpy roads,
increase tyre pressure by 0.2 ÷ 0.3 bar.
Front suspension
HYPERMOTARD
Normal Seat
Type KAYABA hydraulic upside-down fork.
Travel on leg axis 170 mm
Oil quantity, per leg 561 cc (right leg)

429 cc (left leg)
Low Seat (THAI version only)
Stroke on leg axis (Low Seat) 130 mm
Oil quantity, per leg (Low Seat) 575 cc (right leg)

417 cc (left leg)
HYPERMOTARD SP
Type ÖHLINS Aluminium alloy upside-down pressurised fork with hard oxide treatment, fully
adjustable
Travel on leg axis 185 mm
Fork Spring preload 10 turns (from fully open position).
Oil quantity, per 571 ± 4 cc

leg 230 mm (measured without spring and tube preload on the upper part of the air tube)
Front fork adjustments (Hypermotard SP)
STANDARD adjustments
- compression: 12 clicks (from fully closed position);
- rebound: 10 clicks (from fully closed position);
- Spring preload: 10 turns (from fully open position).
HYPERSTRADA
Stroke on leg axis (Normal Seat) 150 mm

Stroke on leg axis (Low Seat) 130 mm
Oil quantity, per leg (Normal Seat) 553 cc (right leg)

415 cc (left leg)
Oil quantity, per leg (Low Seat) 575 cc (right leg)

417 cc (left leg)
Front wheel
Minimum tread depth In the most worn part 2 mm
Tyre pressure Cold 2.5 bar (rider only)

2.5 bar (full load)
Wheel shaft runout On 100 mm 0.2 mm
Wheel rim runout Radial 0.8 mm 2 mm
Axial 0.5 mm 2 mm
Important
Check and set tyre pressure when tyres are cold. To avoid front wheel rim distortion, when riding on bumpy roads,
increase tyre pressure by 0.2 ÷ 0.3 bar.
Cooling system
Type Liquid-cooling with closed-circuit radiator, fan with thermostat
Coolant capacity 2.3±0.5 litres
Thermostat Starts opening at 65 °C ±2 °C
Electric fan enabling 103 °C
Electric fan disabling 102 °C

Gearbox
Gearbox shafts End float 0.05÷0.20 mm
Selector drum End float 0.10÷0.40 mm
Gear selector fork Fork slider thickness 3.90÷4.00 mm
Fork–to-gear clearance 0.070÷0.285 mm 0.4 mm

Cylinder/piston
Cylinder nominal 94 mm
diameter
Max. oval 0.005
Max. taper Measure diameter (X) compared to Check compared with

liner upper edge (D). upper edge (D):
X(A)=10mm
X(B)=50mm
X(C)=100mm
as shown in the figure,
øXA≤øXB≤øXC
øXC-øXA≤0.015 mm

Cylinder diameter Section A 94.000 mm ÷ 94.010 mm
Section B 94.010 mm ÷ 94.020 mm
Section C 94.020 mm ÷ 94.030 mm
Piston-to-bore clearance 0.025 ÷ 0.045 mm
Piston Nominal 94 mm
diameter

Diameter Section A 93.965 mm ÷ 93.975 mm
Section B 93.975 mm ÷ 93.985 mm
Section C 93.985 mm ÷ 93.995 mm

Connecting rod Class A ø45.000 (+0.025; 0.019) mm
Class B ø45.000 (+0.019; 0.013) mm
Con-rod weight classes BLUE (510 ÷ 515) g

YELLOW (515 ÷ 520) g
GREEN (520 ÷ 525) g
RED (525 ÷ 530) g
WHITE (530 ÷ 535) g
BLACK (535 ÷ 540) g
Big-end bearing pairings Crankshaft class Connecting rod class Bearings colour
A A Yellow+Blue
B A Yellow + Yellow
A B Blue + Blue
B B Yellow + Blue
Big-end bearing-to-crank pin Crank pin 0: Ø42.006 (+0.016; +0.008) mm

clearance selection A: Ø42.006 (+0.008; 0) mm
B: Ø42.006 (0; -0.008) mm
C: Ø42.006 (-0.008; -0.016) mm
Gudgeon pin–to-piston 0.014 mm (0.010 ÷ 0.018) mm

clearance
Nominal Ø 20 mm
diameter
Piston Ø20 (+0.015;+0.010) mm
Gudgeon pin Ø20 (+0.1;-0.2) mm

Gudgeon pin-to-connecting rod 0.041 mm (0.035 ÷ 0.048) mm
clearance
Engine cylinder compression (16±1) bar 10 bar (MIN.),

measured with DMT
Crankshaft
Crankshaft Oval 0.005 mm
Taper 0.005 mm
Main journal alignment 0.01 mm on diameter

Timing system/valves
Reference Assembly value Check value every 24,000 km

Timing diagram With 1 mm valve clearance
Intake Opening 4° B.T.D.C.

Closing 52° A.B.D.C.
Exhaust Opening 58° B.B.D.C.

Closing 7° A.T.D.C.
Intake valve diameter 35.5 mm
Exhaust valve diameter 28.8mm

Valve lift With 0 mm valve clearance Intake 11.3 mm
Exhaust 9.6 mm

Valve clearance
Opening rocker arm - intake 0.13÷0.18 mm 0.10÷0.25 mm
Opening rocker arm - exhaust 0.13÷0.18 mm 0.10÷0.25 mm
Closing rocker arm - intake 0.05÷0.10 mm 0.05÷0.15 mm
Closing rocker arm - exhaust 0.05÷0.10 mm 0.05÷0.15 mm

Transmission
Clutch Wet, multiple plates with servo and anti-hop mechanism
Clutch Cable type

control
Gearbox 6 speed
Primary drive 33/61
Drive ratio (1.848:1)
Gearbox type With constant mesh spur gears, operated by a lever on the left side of the motorcycle
Transmission Gear ratios
1st 37/15
2nd 30/17
3rd 28/20
4th 26/22
5th 24/23
6th 23/24
Drive chain Make DID
Type 525VZ
No. of links 106

Colours

Ducati Anniversary Red 473.101 (PPG)
Primer (Acriflex White) L0040652 (LECHLER)
Varnish (Acriplast Red Stoner SF) LMC06017 (LECHLER)
Grey Subframe (Metallic Silver 0404) 36350 (INVER)
Racing Grey frame and black rims

Arctic White
Primer (Dual primer Arctic White) L2920057 (Lechler)
Base Coat (Pearl White Ducati SF L2909004 (Lechler)
Clear lacquer 923M1598 (PALINAL)
Grey Subframe (Metallic Silver 0404) 36350 (INVER)
Red frame (Ducati Red) 81784 (INVER)
Racing Grey frame and black rims

General
Motorcycle Total length (Normal Seat) 2115 mm

dimensions
Total length (Low Seat) 2110 mm
Total width 895 mm
Total width (with side 975 mm

panniers)
Total height (at plexiglass) 1320 mm

(Normal Seat)
Total height (at plexiglass) 1310 mm

(Low Seat)
Seat height (Normal Seat) 850 mm

(EUR/AUS/CAL/CDN Standard Suspensions
versions) Standard Seat
Seat height (Low Seat) 830 mm

(EUR/AUS/CAL/CDN Lowered Suspensions
versions) Standard Seat
Seat height (Low Seat) 810 mm

(JAP/APAC versions) Lowered Suspensions
Lowered Seat
Minimum ground clearance 163 mm

(Normal Seat)
Minimum ground clearance 145 mm

(Low Seat)
Wheelbase 1493 mm
Front footpeg height (Normal 333 mm

Seat)
Front footpeg height (Low 315 mm

Seat)
Rear footpeg height (Normal 524 mm

Seat)
Rear footpeg height (Low 506 mm

Seat)
Frame Type Steel tubular trellis frame with 34 mm main tubes
Subframe Type Die-cast aluminium
Steering head angle 25.5°
Steering angle 35° left side / 35° right side
Trail 104 mm
Front suspension Hydraulic upside-down fork

Leg diameter: 43 mm
Front wheel travel (Normal 150 mm

Seat)
Front wheel travel (Low 130 mm

Seat)
Rear suspension SACHS:

Progressive. Adjustable shock absorber for rebound and spring preload,
connected at the bottom pivot point to a die-cast aluminium single-sided
swinging arm.
Suspension stroke (Normal Seat): 61.5mm
Suspension stroke (Low Seat): 55.5mm
Rear wheel travel (Normal Seat): 150mm
Rear wheel travel (Low Seat): 133mm
Front wheel rim 10-spoke, light-alloy rim
Front wheel rim size MT 3.50x17"
Front tyre size 120/70 - ZR 17
Type of tyre Pirelli Scorpion Trial Tubeless radial type
Rear wheel rim 10-spoke, light alloy
Rear wheel rim size MT 5.50x17"
Rear tyre size 180/55 - ZR 17
Type of tyre Pirelli Scorpion Trial Tubeless radial type
Front brake Semi-floating drilled twin-disc.

ABS as a standard.
Disc dimensions (diameter x 320x4.5 mm

thickness)
Rear brake With fixed drilled steel disc.

ABS as a standard.
Disc dimensions (diameter) 245 mm
Engine Type Testastretta 11°, twin cylinder 90° "L" type
Bore 94 mm
Stroke 67.5 mm

Displacement 936,9 cu.cc
Compression ratio 12.6 ± 0.5
Timing system Toothed belt type with two desmodromic overhead camshafts, 4 valves
per cylinder and 8 rocker arms
Lubrication system Forced lubrication by pump without oil cooler
Oil pump type Lobe type, with bypass valve
Cooling system Liquid cooling with thermostat
Air filter One cylindrical filtering element

Clutch Wet, multiple plates with servo and anti-hop mechanism
Max. rotation speed 10500 rpm
Crankshaft type One-piece
Max crankshaft power 83.1kW / 113HP at 9000 rpm

(95/1/EC), kW/HP
Max crankshaft power 83.1kW / 113HP at 9000 rpm

(95/1/EC), kW/HP (FRANCE
Version)
Max torque at crankshaft 97.9Nm / 10.0 kgm at 7500 rpm

(95/1/EC) Nm / Kgm
Max torque at crankshaft 97.9Nm / 10.0 kgm at 7500 rpm

(95/1/EC) Nm / Kgm
(FRANCE Version)
Dimensions

HYPERSTRADA Values (mm)

A B C D E F G H I
Total length (Normal Seat) 2115
Total length (Low Seat) 2110
Seat height (Normal Seat) 850
Seat height (Low Seat) 830
Minimum ground clearance (Normal Seat) 163
Minimum ground clearance (Low Seat) 145

Wheelbase 1493
Front footpeg height (Normal Seat) 333
Front footpeg height (Low Seat) 315
Rear footpeg height (Normal Seat) 524
Rear footpeg height (Low Seat) 506
Total width 895
Total width (with side panniers) 975
Total height at plexiglass (Normal Seat) 1320
Total height at plexiglass (Low Seat) 1310

Warning
Failure to observe weight limits could result in poor handling and impair the performance of your motorcycle, and
you may lose control of the motorcycle.

Fuel, Type cu. dm(litres)
lubricants and
other fluids

Fuel tank, Unleaded fuel with 95 RON fuel octane rating (at least). 16
including a For the US market, unleaded fuel with 90 (RON+MON)/2 fuel octane
reserve of 4 rating (at least).
cu. dm(litres)
Lubrication Ducati recommends you use Shell Advance 4T Ultra 15W-50 oil. As an 3.35
circuit alternative it is possible to use a motorcycle engine oil having the same
degree SAE 15W-50 and meeting the following specifications JASO:
MA2 and API: SM.
Front/rear SHELL – Advance Brake DOT 4

brake and
clutch circuits
Protectant for SHELL – Advance Contact Cleaner

electric
contacts

Front fork SHELL - Advance Fork 7.5 or Donax TA HYPERMOTARD
(Normal Seat)
561 cc (right leg)
429 cc (left leg)
HYPERMOTARD (Low
Seat — THAI version
only)
575 cc (right leg)
417 cc (left leg)
HYPERMOTARD SP
230 mm (Measured
without spring and tube
preload on the upper part
of the air tube)
571 ± 4cc
HYPERSTRADA Normal
Seat
553 cc (right leg)
415 cc (left leg)
HYPERSTRADA Low
Seat
575 cc (right leg)
417 cc (left leg)
Cooling circuit 2.5
Important
Do not use any additives in fuel or lubricants. Using them could result in severe damage of the engine and
motorcycle components.
Warning
The motorcycle is only compatible with fuel having a maximum content of ethanol of 10% (E10). Using fuel with
ethanol content over 10% is forbidden. Using it could result in severe damage to the engine and motorcycle
components. Using fuel with ethanol content over 10% will make the warranty null and void.
Engine oil
A good quality engine oil has special properties. Use only a highly detergent engine oil with certified SE, SF or SG
or higher service ratings as marked on the container.
Recommendations concerning oil

It is recommended to use oil complying with the following specifications:
• viscosity grade SAE 15W-50;

• standard API: SM;
• standard JASO: MA2.
SAE 15W-50 is an alphanumerical code identifying oil class based on viscosity: two figures with a W ("winter") in-
between; the first figure indicates oil viscosity at low temperature; the second figure indicates its viscosity at high
temperature. API (American standard) and JASO (Japanese standard) standards specify oil characteristics.
Engine tightening torque values
Description Threading Torque (Nm) Notes
Rated Min Max
GEAR SELECTOR CONTROL
Gearbox drum positioning screw M16x1.5 27 30 33
Gear sensor M12x1.25 11 12 13
Gearbox pawl screw M8x1.25 34 36 38 PRE-APPLIED THREADLOCKER
Gearbox pawl screw M6x1 15 16 17 PRE-APPLIED THREADLOCKER
Pawl positioner retaining nut M6x1 9 10 11
GEARBOX / CLUTCH
Clutch drum nut M25x1.5 180 190 200 GREASE B
FCC - wet clutch spring screw M6x1 9 10 11
ADLER - wet clutch spring screw M5x0.8 4.5 5 5.5
CYLINDERS / PISTONS
PRE-APPLIED THREADLOCKER
Water union M22x1.5 23 25 27
(or LOCK4 for BRAZIL version)
TIMING SYSTEM
GREASE A (or GREASE B for

Timing layshaft belt roller ring nut M15x1 64 71 78
BRAZIL version)

Camshaft gear nut M14x1 50 55 60
BRAZIL version)

FIXED tensioner bearing retaining screw M14x2 45 50 55
BRAZIL version)

Nut securing MOBILE tensioner M8x1.25 22 25 28
BRAZIL version)
CARBON guards retaining screw (HYPERMOTARD SP) M6x1 5.5 6 6.5 PRE-APPLIED THREADLOCKER
PLASTIC guards retaining screw (HYPERMOTARD,

M6x1 9 10 11 PRE-APPLIED THREADLOCKER
HYPERSTRADA)
CARBON guards filter support self-tapping screw

3.5 0.7 0.8 0.9
(HYPERMOTARD SP)
PLASTIC guards filter support self-tapping screw

3.5 1.5 1.75 2
(HYPERMOTARD, HYPERSTRADA)
IGNITION
Spark plug M10x1 11 12 13
Screw securing rotor to flywheel M6x1 11 13 15 PRE-APPLIED THREADLOCKER

CON-ROD ASSEMBLY
LOCK5 (or LOCK4 for BRAZIL

Flywheel retaining nut M24x1 313 330 346
versions)
Primary sprocket retaining ring nut M22x1 171 190 209 GREASE B

Steel/aluminium crankshaft plug M20x1 13.5 15 17
versions)
Balancing plug M12x1.25 26 28 30 PRE-APPLIED THREADLOCKER
Connecting rod bolt (Class 14.9) M10x1
1) Apply the indicated product on thread and GREASE B on thread and

35
underhead underhead
2) Tightening at 35Nm at 50rpm
3) Pause of 2 seconds and 360º loosening at 30rpm 20
4) Snug torque at 20Nm at 30rpm 35
5) Snug torque at 35Nm at 10rpm
6) 65º +/-1º tightening at 14rpm

7) Torque check 70÷113Nm M8x1.25 11 13 15
versions)

Crankshaft drilled dowel M8x1.25 11 13 15
versions)
COVERS

Water intake union M30x1.5 23 25 27
versions)

Water delivery union M22x1.5 23 25 27
versions)
Wet clutch fluid filler cap M20x2.5 4.5 5 5.5
Pick-up + washer inspection screw M12x1 13 15 17 LOCK2
Water pump cover plug + washer M10x1 13.5 15 17
Clutch recess blanking plug + washer M10x1 10 11 12
Water pump bearing retaining screw + washer M6x1 9 10 11 LOCK2
Timing inspection cover screw M6x1 4.5 5 5.5
Alternator cover closing screw M6x1 12.5 13.5 15
Water pump cover blanking screw (through hole), +

M6x1 12.5 13.5 15
washer
Water pump cover blanking screw (blind hole) M6x1 12.5 13.5 15
Generator stator retaining screw M6x1 9 10 11 LOCK2
Clutch cover closing screw M6x1 12.5 13.5 15
Special screw securing generator cover to stud bolt M6x1 12.5 13.5 15
Screw securing pushrod plug on generator cover M6x1 9 10 11
Sound-deadening panel retaining screw M6x1 10 12 14 LOCK5
CASINGS
Oil mesh filter plug M32x1.5 38 42 46
Plastic oil mesh filter M24x1.5 9 10 11

Oil intake service hole plug M22x1.5 38 42 46
versions)
SHELL Advance Ultra 4 engine

Oil cartridge M16x1.5 10 11 12
oil on seal
Nipple for oil cartridge M16x1.5 38 42 46 LOCK2

Oil cooler nipple M14x1.5 29 32 35
versions)
Three Bond 1215 sealing

Oil drain plug with magnet M12x1.5 18 20 22
compound (on thread only)
Oil channel tapered dowel on clutch (delivery+ return LOCK5 (or LOCK4 for BRAZIL
M10x1 18 20 22
to oil cooler) versions)
Cylinder/head stud bolt M10x1.5 28 30 32 LOCK2
Casing jointing screw in cylinder area M8x1.25
1) Apply grease GREASE B
2) Preload torque 17 19 21
3) Tightening torque 22 25 28
Central jointing screw + swinging arm connection area M8x1.25
1) Apply grease GREASE B
LOCK2 (As an alternative: Three

Gear stopper lever retaining screw M8x1.25 16 18 20
Bond TB 1324)
Nut retaining oil adjustment screw to clutch M8x1 10 11 12
Blow-by valve retaining screw M6x1 9 10 11

Secondary bearing, chain side, stop screw M6x1 9 10 11
Bond TB 1324)

Primary bearing, clutch side, stop screw M6x1 9 10 11
Bond TB 1324)
Casing jointing screw in idle gear shaft area M6x1 9 10 11
Casing outer jointing screw M6x1 9 10 11
Radial pick-up retaining screw M6x1 9 10 11

Oil squirter under piston retaining screw M5x0.8 7 8 9
Bond TB 1324)

Blow-by valve upper shell screw M3x0.5 1 1.2 1.4
versions)
ELECTRIC STARTER
Starter motor inner retaining screw M6x1 9 10 11 LOCK2 (pre-applied)
Starter motor outer retaining screw M6x1 9 10 11 LOCK2 (pre-applied)
Starter motor rear retaining screw M6x1 9 10 11 PRE-APPLIED THREADLOCKER
COOLING CIRCUIT
Water circuit ties - 2 2.5 3
OIL PUMP

By-pass pump plug M15x1 15 17 19
versions)
Oil pump retaining screw + washer M8x1.25 23 26 29
Oil gear pump assembling screw M6x1 9 10 11
Oil pump retaining screw + washer M6x1 9 10 11
Oil lobe pump assembling screw M6x1 9 10 11
HEADS
FIXED tensioner pin M20x1 45 50 55 PRE-APPLIED THREADLOCKER

MOBILE tensioner pin M20x1 45 50 55
Bond TB 1324)
Camshaft belt roller ring nut M17x1 64 71 78 GREASE A

OCV oil filter plug M16x1
oil
LOCK4 (Hold insert while

Temperature sensor on water union M12x1.5 20 23 26
tightening)
LOCK4 (Hold insert while

Water temperature sensor on horizontal head M12x1.5
tightening)
PRE-APPLIED THREADLOCKER
Rocker arm shaft blanking plug + washer M12x1.25 14 15 16
(As an alternative, LOCK2)
Nut for head/cylinder stud bolt M10x1.5
GREASE C (On thread and

1) Apply product
underhead)
2) Snug torque at 20Nm
Camshaft cap retaining screw M8x1.25

1) Apply product
oil
3) Tightening torque 21 22.5 25
Coil retaining screw M6x1 9 10 11
Belt roller flange retaining screws 10.9 M6x1 12.5 14 16
Intake manifold retaining nut M6x1 9 10 11
Head cover retaining screw M6x1 9 10 11

Exhaust manifold stud bolt M6x1 9 10 11
versions)
Vacuometer retaining screw + washer M6x1 4 5 6
Horizontal head air breather union + washer M6x1 2 2.5 3 LOCK2
MAP sensor special screw M6x1 4 5 6
Vertical head air breather screw + washer M6x1 7 8 9 LOCK2
Intake manifold retaining screw M6x1 9 10 11
Secondary air cover retaining screw M5x0.8 5 6 7
Screw securing water unions to head M5x0.8 5 6 7 PRE-APPLIED THREADLOCKER
CANISTER FILTER
Union for canister + washer M6x1 4 5 6

Frame tightening torque values
Description Threading Torque (Nm) Notes
Hypermotard
Hypermotard SP Hyperstrada Hyperstrada
(Normal
Seat) (Low Seat)
ACCESSORIES
LH rear-view mirror fastener M10x1.25 40
M10x1.25-
RH rear-view mirror fastener LH 40
LH heated handgrip fastener M4x0.7 2.8
RBW throttle fastener with handlebar Sequence

heater M5x0.8 4.5* 1-(UP)-2-1
Short mushroom to lower support

fastener (RH+LH) M6x1 10
Long mushroom to lower support

fastener (RH+LH) M6x1 10
Panniers support to tool box

compartment fastener (FRONT) M8x1.25 22
Panniers support to tool box

compartment fastener (REAR) M8x1.25 22
Pannier lock to pannier fastener

(RH+LH) M5x0.8 2.0 - 2.5
Cam on pannier lock key nipple

fastener (RH+LH) AF2.5 0.6
Pannier support to pannier fastener

(RH+LH) (lower M5x0.8 2.2
STAND
Side stand rotation pin lock nut

fastener M8x1.25 24
Side stand plate to crankcase Pre-applied

fastener M10x1.5 42.0* threadlocker
Pre-applied
Stand sensor fastener M6x1 5 threadlocker
Side stand rotation pin fastener M8x1.25 24 GREASE A
Pre-applied
Centre stand rotation pin fastener M18x1.5 70 threadlocker
Centre stand spring retainer pin

fastener M6x1 10 LOCK2
CHAIN / SPROCKET
Sprocket fastener M25x1.5 186.0* GREASE B
Pre-applied
Sprocket cover fastener M6x1 6 threadlocker
LIGHTS
Headlight to headlight fairing frame

fastener ST5 3
Tail light to tool box compartment

fastener ST5 3.5
Handlebar end hand guard fastener

(RH+LH) M6x1 10
Seq.: 2-
Hand guard clamp on handlebar (DOWN)-1-
fastener (RH+LH) M5x0.8 5 2
Hand guard on support fastener

(RH+LH) M6x1 5
LED indicator to hand guard fastener

(RH+LH) ST3.5 0.5
Hand guard to arc fastener (RH+LH) ST3.5 0.5
INSTRUMENTS
Instrument panel to headlight fairing

frame fastener M5x0.8 3
FRONT FORK
Steering bearing fastener M35x1 30.0* GREASE B
Brake hose cable ring to bottom yoke

fastener M6x1 10
LOCK2 (on
Steering limit stop lock nut fastener M8x1.25 18 nut thread)
Steering head on steering shaft

fastener M8x1.25 18.0* GREASE B
GREASE B /
Steering head on fork fastener Sequence
(RH+LH) M6x1 10.0* 1-(UP)-2-1
GREASE B /
Bottom yoke on fork fastener Sequence
(RH+LH) M8x1.25 16.0* 1-(UP)-2-1
PRE-
APPLIED
LUBRICANT
MARZOCCHI fork bottom end Sequence
fastener (RH+LH) M6x1 - 1-(UP)-2-1
GREASE B /
KAYABA fork bottom end fastener Sequence
(RH+LH) M6x1 10.0* 10.0* 1-(UP)-2-1
Handlebar lower U-bolt to steering

head fastener M10x1.25 45.0*
Headlight fairing support plate to Pre-applied
steering head fastener M6x1 10 threadlocker
Headlight fairing support plate to Pre-applied

bottom yoke fastener M6x1 10 threadlocker
ABS sensor cable ring to fork axle lug

fastener M6x1 10
OHLINS fork bottom end fastener

(RH+LH) M8x1.25 - 19*
ELECTRICAL / ELECTRONIC SYSTEM
Switches to handlebar fastener

(RH+LH) M4x0.7 1.3
Battery cable to terminal fastener M6x1 10
Solenoid starter cable to starter

motor fastener M6x1 5 GREASE D
Solenoid starter cable on solenoid

starter fastener M6x1 5
Ground cable on engine fastener M6x1 10
ABS sensor on wheels fastener Pre-applied

(FRONT+REAR) M6x1 7 threadlocker
Fuse support to tool box

compartment fastener ST5 2.5
Horn to headlight fairing fastener M6x1 8
Voltage rectifier to support fastener M6x1 4
Bracket to V.H. intake manifold

fastener M6x1 10
Solenoid starter support to tool box

compartment fastener ST5 2.5
Power socket to frame fastener M18x1 3.5
Power socket to piggyback support

fastener M18x1 3.5
FRONT BRAKE
Front brake master cylinder to Seq.: 1-

handlebar fastener M6x1 10 (UP)-2-1
Front brake calliper fastener (RH+LH) M10x1.25 45.0* 45.0* GREASE B
Front brake calliper pre-tightening for

settling (RH+LH) M10x1.25 2 2 GREASE B
Front brake calliper fastener (RH+LH) M10x1.25 - 45.0* GREASE B
Front brake calliper pre-tightening for

settling (RH+LH) M10x1.25 - 2 GREASE B
REAR SWINGING ARM
Swingarm shaft fastener M8x1.25 18.0 ±5% GREASE B

Pre-applied
Calliper holder plate pin tightening M12x1.25 33.0 ±5% threadlocker
GREASE B -
Sequence
Eccentric on swinging arm fastener M12x1.25 31.0 ±5% 1-(UP)-2-1
Speed sensor cable ring retainer M4x0.7 1 LOCK2
Pre-applied
Upper chain sliding shoe fastener M5x0.8 5 threadlocker
Lower chain sliding shoe/hose clip Pre-applied

fastener M5x0.8 5 threadlocker
Lower hose clip protection on Pre-applied

swinging arm fastener M5x0.8 5 threadlocker
Australia chain guard to chain sliding

shoe fastener (AUSTRALIA) 5 1.2
REAR BRAKE
Rear brake calliper fastener M8x1.25 25.0* GREASE B
Rear brake master cylinder to

footpeg holder plate fastener M6x1 10
Rear brake master cylinder to

footpeg holder plate fastener M6x1 10
Rear brake fluid reservoir to cable

ring fastener M5x0.8 2
ABS line grommet to frame fastener M5x0.8 2
ABS SYSTEM
Brake line union fastener (Rear

master cylinder+Rear calliper) M10x1 23
Unions to ABS control unit fastener M10x1 23
Brake line union fastener (Front

master cylinder) M10x1 23
Twin eyelet union fastener (RH front

calliper) M10x1 23
Single eyelet union fastener (LH front

calliper) M10x1 23
Bleeder fastener (RH+LH front

calliper) M6x1 4
ABS control unit on bracket fastener M6x1 6.8±1 LOCK2
ABS control unit on bracket fastener M6x1 6.8±1 LOCK2
ABS control unit bracket on frame Pre-applied

fastener M6x1 10 threadlocker
ABS line clip fastener (Rear brake

master cylinder) M5x0.8 5
NUMBER PLATE HOLDER
Number plate holder to tool box

compartment front fastener M8x1.25 20

compartment rear fastener M8x1.25 20
Rear turn indicators to rear guard Pre-applied

Upper guard to lower guard fastener M5x0.8 3.5
Upper guard to lower guard fastener ST5 5
Number plate holder plate to rear

guard retainer M6x1 5
Reflector fastener M4x0.7 2
Number plate light fastener (reed

support) AF4.5 2

compartment rear fastener
(AUSTRALIA) M8x1.25
Gravel guard to number plate holder

plate fastener (AUSTRALIA) M6x1
Number plate holder plate to rear

guard fastener (AUSTRALIA) M6x1
HANDLEBAR / CLUTCH CONTROL
GREASE B
(Seq: 1-2-
Handlebar upper U-bolt fastener M8x1.25 4.5* 3-4-3)
Sequence
RBW throttle to handlebar fastener M5x0.8 4.5±0.5 1-(UP)-2-1
Sequence
Clutch lever to handlebar fastener M6x1 6.0 - 7.0 1-(UP)-2-1
Sequence
Clutch lever to lever unit fastener M6x1 10.0 - 15.0 1-(UP)-2-1
Cable ring for clutch cable to frame Pre-applied

fastener M6x1 8 threadlocker
Clutch cable plate to engine fastener M6x1 10
REAR SUSPENSION
Shock absorber on swinging arm and

frame fastener M10x1.25 42.0* GREASE B
Shock absorber preload adjuster to Pre-applied

frame fastener M6x1 10 threadlocker
Piggyback support and side body

panel to tool box compartment
fastener M5x0.8 5
Piggyback support lock and fastener M5x0.8 1
FRONT MUDGUARD
Pre-applied
Front mudguard fastener (RH+LH) M6x1 8.0 threadlocker
Pre-applied
Front mudguard T fastener (RH+LH) M6x1 8.0 threadlocker
Carbon SP front mudguard fastener Pre-applied

(RH+LH) M6x1 8.0 threadlocker
WATER RADIATOR
Radiator to frame fastener M6x1 10.0
Radiator to engine fastener M5x0.8 5.0
Threaded pin to horizontal head

fastener M6x1 10.0
Fan to radiator fastener (RH+LH) M3x0.5 1.5
Expansion reservoir support bracket

to manifold fastener M6x1 10.0
Expansion reservoir to bracket

fastener M6x1 8.0
Bushing on reservoir fastener M6x1 8.0
Water hose clamps on engine and

radiator retainer 3.0
Fairing support bracket to radiator

fastener (RH+LH) M5x0.8 5.0
Water hose clamp on engine

horizontal head union fastener 0.6
Water hose clamp on thermostat

retainer 2.0
FOOTPEGS AND LEVERS
BRAKE SIDE
Brake lever pin on RH footpeg holder Pre-applied

plate fastener M8x1.25 24.0 threadlocker
Switch screw on rear brake lever

fastener M6x1 5.0
Brake master cylinder control rod

fastener M6x1 7.5
RH footpeg holder plate to engine

fastener M10x1.5 36.0
RH footpeg support to swingarm

shaft upper fastener M12x1.25 55.0* GREASE B
Stop warning light switch fastener M8x1 5.0
Rear brake rod spacer to counteract

spring fastener M6x1 10.0 LOCK2
GEARBOX SIDE
Gearbox rod fastener M6x1 8.0
LH footpeg holder plate to engine

LH footpeg holder plate to engine

LH footpeg support to swingarm shaft

upper fastener M12x1.25 55* GREASE B
Gearchange rod joints to gear shift

lever / connecting rod fastener M6x1 10.0
Gearchange lever (connecting rod) to Pre-applied

pawl fastener M6x1 10.0 threadlocker
Gearchange lever pin on LH footpeg Pre-applied

holder plate fastener M8x1.25 24.0 threadlocker
FOOTPEGS AND LEVERS
Pre-applied
Rear mudguard fastener M5x0.8 5.0 threadlocker
Pre-applied
Rear mudguard fastener M5x0.8 5.0 threadlocker
FRONT WHEEL
Pre-applied
threadlocker
Brake disc fastener (RH+LH) M8x1.25 30.0* (LOCK2)
Front wheel nut fastener M25x1.25 63.0* GREASE B
Valve fastener M8x1.25 10.0
REAR WHEEL
Rear sprocket fastener M10x1.25 48.0 GREASE B
Rear sprocket side wheel shaft

fastener (LH) M33x1.5 156.0* GREASE B
Rim side wheel shaft fastener (RH) M38x1.5 176.0* GREASE B
Driving pin fastener M6x1 11.0 LOCK2
Pre-applied
threadlocker
Brake disc retaining screw M8x1.25 25.0* (LOCK2)
Pre-applied
Phonic wheel retainer M5x0.8 5.0 threadlocker
Valve retainer M8x1.25 10.0
FUEL TANK
GAC flange to tank fastener M5x0.8 5

Filler for tank plug fastener M5x0.8 5
GAC flange fastener to tank with twin

thread screw M5x0.8 5
GAC flange cover fastener M5x0.8 3
Seat on tank fastener M5x0.8 2
Tank to tool box compartment Pre-applied

Tank buffer to frame fastener

(RH+LH) M6x1 8
Tank buffer to subframe fastener

(RH+LH) M6x1 10
Fuel hose clip to tank fastener M5x0.8 5
EXHAUST
Exhaust pipe flange to head fastener

(HOR.+VER.) M6x1 10.0
CO2 plugs on exhaust pipes fastener

(HOR.+VER.) G 1/8" A 25.0
Lambda sensor fastener

(HOR.+VER.) M12x1.25
Exhaust valve pulley protection

fastener M6x1 10.0
Heat guard to horizontal exhaust Pre-applied

fastener M6x1 8.0 threadlocker
Heat guard on silencer fastener M6x1 8.0
Bracket to silencer fastener M8x1.25 22.0
Silencer to RH footpeg holder plate

Exhaust/central body support bracket

fastener M6x1 10.0
Silencer clip on exhaust valve

Heat guard on exhaust pipes fastener

(HOR.+VER.) M6x1 8.0
Lambda sensor fastener

(HOR.+VER.) M12x1.25 25*
FRAME
GREASE B
(on thread
and
Frame to engine fastener M12x1.25 60* underhead)
Subframe to frame front fastener M8x1.25 24*

Subframe to frame rear fastener M8x1.25 24*
Ignition switch cover cap nut fastener M6x1 7.0
Pre-applied
threadlocker
(Shear the
screw
Ignition switch to frame fastener M6x1 >12* head)
Latch to tool box compartment

fastener M6x1 5.0
Self-locking tie support on subframe

fastener M4x0.7 2.0 LOCK2
Rear crosspiece and tool box

compartment to subframes fastener M8x1.25 18.0
Subframe jointing front crosspiece

Pre-applied
Upper crosspiece to frame fastener M8x1.25 24.0 threadlocker
BBS support bracket to rear

crosspiece fastener M4x0.7 2.0
Exhaust valve actuator fastener M6x1
Exhaust valve actuator fastener M6x1 fully home
Clip to tool box compartment

fastener ST4 1.5
Exhaust valve actuator fastener M6x1 8.0
OIL COOLER
Pressure switch to remote oil pipe

fastener M10x1 24.0
Pressure switch oil pipe to engine

retainer M14x1.5 32.0
Pressure switch support to engine

fastener M6x1 10.0
Pressure switch support to engine Pre-applied

with sump guard fastener M6x1 10.0 threadlocker
Nipple to oil cooler fastener M14x1.5 23.0 LOCK1
Lubricate
Oil pipe to nipple on oil cooler with engine
fastener M16x1.5 18* oil
Oil cooler support bracket to engine

fastener M6x1 10.0
Oil cooler to bracket fastener M6x1 6.0 LOCK2
Oil cooler to bracket fastener M6x1 6.0 LOCK2
Oil pipe support to engine fastener M6x1 10.0

Lubricate
Oil pipe to nipple on crankcase with engine
fastener M16x1.5 25* oil
AIR INLET / OIL BREATHER
Filter cover to airbox fastener ST5 2.0
Air filter locking ring nut fastener M6x1 6.0
Blow-by hose clips on valve and

airbox fastener 1.5
Airbox drain pipe cable ring on

engine fastener M5x0.8 5.0
Rectifier support rubber blocks to

airbox fastener ST4 0.9
MAP sensor to airbox fastener M5x0.8 5.0
FUEL SUPPLY
Throttle bodies to manifolds fastener

(FRONT+REAR) M6x1 10.0*
Injector cap to plastic manifold

fastener M5x0.8 5.0
Airbox clips fastener 2.5
Canister to bracket fastener M6x1 8.0
Canister bracket to engine fastener M6x1 10.0
FAIRING
Tail guard central cover to subframe

Painted tail guard to subframe

Painted tail guard to tail guard

central cover fastener (RH+LH) ST5 0.8
Fairing to bracket on radiator

Central cover on tank plug fastener M5x0.8 3.0
Central cover on tank fastener

(RH+LH) M5x0.8 3.0
Central and side cover on tank

Radiator cover fastener (RH+LH) M5x0.8 3.0
Instrument panel cover to headlight

fairing frame fastener M5x0.8 5.0
Silent blocks to headlight fairing

frame fastener M6x1 fully home
Headlight fairing support plate to

silent blocks fastener M6x1 7.0
Painted headlight trim to headlight

Tank inner front panel fastener

(RH+LH) M5x0.8 2.0
Pre-applied
Underseat side body panel fastener M5x0.8 4.5 threadlocker
Seat lock to RH side body panel

Front side body panel to frame and Pre-applied

subframe fastener (RH+LH) M5x0.8 4.5 threadlocker
Clip to headlight fairing frame

fastener ST4 1.0
Instrument panel cover T to headlight

Windscreen T to headlight fairing

frame fastener M5x0.8 3.0
Pre-applied
Underseat side body panel fastener M5x0.8 4.5 threadlocker
Grab handle central fastener M6x1 5.0
Grab handles and central cover to

subframe fastener (RH+LH) M8x1.25 22.0
Sump guard to plate fastener

(RH+LH) M5x0.8 5.0
Sump guard to central plate fastener M6x1
Sump guard support plate to engine

Grab handles to central cover

fastener M6x1 10.0
Sump guard to central plate fastener M6x1 5.0
*dynamic safety-critical point; tightening torque tolerance must be Nm ±5%.

Diagnosis special tools
PART NO. DESCRIPTION IMAGE

28620441A "PC HASP DDS2.0" wrench

979000252 DDS 2 (Ducati Diagnosis System 2.0)

979000253 Belt tensioning

979000254 Diagnosis and power supply cable

979000255 Diagnosis and power supply cable (CAN)

979000256 Power supply cable from DDS battery

Frame special tools

80007.0139 Front wheel shaft wrench

88713.0957 Preload tube retaining tool for Kayaba fork

88713.0958 Rotation bar for fork overhaul

88713.1010 Exhaust gas suction fitting

88713.1038 Eccentric hub adjusting wrench

88713.1058 Wrench to fit steering tube plug

88713.1062 Steering tube bearing installation tool

88713.1072 Big end bearing driving tool

88713.1073 Rear wheel balancing tool

88713.1096 Driving tool for Kayaba fork oil seal

88713.1832 Engine repair work bench

88713.3220 Engine repair work bench

Engine special tools

88713.0137 Primary drive sprocket retainer key

88713.0869 Water pump front seal installation tool

88713.0870 Water pump front seal counter-washer installation tool

88713.0944 Oil cartridge wrench

88713.1749 Puller for driving pulley and cover

88713.1805 Driving pulley tightening tool

88713.1806 Camshaft pulley (Z=20) tightening tool

88713.1821 Tensioner pin wrench

88713.1920 Tool to install O-rings on engine block stud bolts

88713.1994 Rocker arm shaft puller

88713.2011 Tool to block crankshaft at Top Dead Centre (TDC)

88713.2442 Tool to install seal ring on valve guide

88713.2556 Clutch housing reaction tool

88713.2676 Cylinder head nut tightening tool

88713.2834 Snap ring installation tool

88713.2861 Camshaft seal ring installation tool

88713.2863 Bearing surface for head installation

88713.2870 Con-rod guiding tool

88713.2877 Spark plug wrench

88713.2878 Spacer and fork feeler gauge 0.2/0.3 mm

88713.2906 Oil cartridge wrench

88713.3219 Reaction tool for pulley tightening

88713.3334 Selector fork positioning plate

88713.3367 Flywheel wrench

88713.3497 Wrench to tension the belt mobile tensioner

88713.4145 Bearing shell driving tool

88713.4189 Drift

88713.4198 Vertical cylinder exhaust manifold upper nut disassembly tool

88713.4284 Clutch pack assembly reaction tool

88713.4285 Clutch pack locking screws

88713.4286 Clutch pack assembly/disassembly support

88713.4411 Insert

88713.4882 Primary drive gear puller

88765.1000
88765.1005 Fork feeler gauges
88765.1006

88765.1298 Valve lower shim check spacer

88765.1623 Timing pulley positioning tool

88765.1635 Graduated disk bearing tool for disk spark advance check
Pre-delivery Check List
1 Transport packaging integrity visual check (where applicable).

2 Transport packaging removal (where applicable).
3 Motorbike integrity visual check.
4 Check of the supplied kit completeness (refer to the parts list supplied together with the kit).
5 Hand guard assembly (where applicable).
6 Rear-view mirror assembly (Refitting the rear-view mirrors).
7 Plexiglass assembly (Hyperstrada, only) (Front plexiglass kit).
8 Lock assembly on side panniers (Hyperstrada, only) (Side pannier kit).
9 Battery start-up (recharging the battery, topping up the electrolyte) and fitting on the vehicle (Battery).
10 Final drive correct tensioning check.
11 Tyre pressure check.
12 Check brake fluid level (Changing the front brake system fluid, Changing the rear brake system fluid) and top up, if
necessary.
13 Check coolant level (Checking the coolant level) and top up, if necessary (Changing the coolant).
14 Check engine oil level (Checking the engine oil level) and top up, if necessary (Changing the engine oil and filter
cartridge).
15 Lights, turn indicators, horn and controls check. Headlight beam height adjustment check. Check handlebar
free movement and possible interference.
16 Check key and steering lock operation.
17 Set time in the instrument panel and check the correct setting of units according to the country version.
18 Check of front and rear wheel shaft tightening.
19 Check of the brake calliper retaining screws tightening.
20 Fuel top-up until the reserve warning light turns off (approx. 4 litres).
21 Check engine stop switch, side stand switch and clutch lever operation.
22 Check the presence of any technical updates and recall campaigns on DCS.
23 Check of Software version updates on control units (use the Global Scan function) and reading of fault memory
with the DDS 2.0.
24 Install any Ducati Performance accessories required by Customer's order and check their operation.
25 Final test and road test of the motorcycle (test correct operation of safety devices and electric fan).
26 Softly clean the motorcycle.
27 Motorbike warranty activation and on-board documentation filling in (Warranty General Terms and Conditions);
28 Show the Customer the bike operation and maintenance chart.
29 Turn in to Customer the kit documentation and the Service Booklet (appropriately filled in).
Scheduled maintenance chart: operations to be carried out by the customer
List of operations and type of intervention km x1,000 1

(set mileage (km/mi) or time interval*)
mi. x1,000 0.6
Months 6
Check engine oil level •
Check brake fluid level •
Check tyre pressure and wear •
Check the drive chain tension and lubrication •
Check brake pads •
*Service operation to be carried out in accordance with the specified distance or time intervals (km, miles or
months), whichever occurs first.
Scheduled maintenance chart: operations to be carried out by the dealer
Warning
This scheduled maintenance chart is designed for a road use of the vehicle. If it is used on the track, even if not
during sport competitions, all parts of the motorcycle are more stressed so the routine maintenance operations
must be carried out more frequently than indicated.
Km. x1000 1 15 30 45 60
List of operations and type of intervention Time
(set mileage (km/mi) or time interval *) (months)
mi. x1,000 0.6 9 18 27 36
Reading of the error memory with DDS 2.0 and check of software version update on
• • • • • 12
control units
Check the presence of any technical updates and recall campaigns • • • • • 12
Change engine oil and filter • • • • • 12
Clean the engine oil mesh filter assembly • • • -
Check and/or adjust valve clearance • • -
Change timing belts • • 60
Change spark plugs • • • • -
Clean air filter • • -
Change air filter • • -
Check brake and clutch fluid level • • • • • 12
Change brake and clutch fluid 36
Check brake disc and pad wear: replace, if necessary • • • • • 12
Checking the tightening of the rear brake disc screws and of the phonic wheel (with rear
• • • •
wheel shaft removal)
Check front and rear wheel nuts tightening • • • • • 12
Check frame-to-engine fasteners tightening • • • • -
Check wheel hub bearings • • -
Check and lubricate the rear wheel shaft • • -
Check the cush drive damper on rear sprocket • • -
Check the proper tightening of final drive front and rear sprocket nuts • • • • • 12
Check final drive (chain, front and rear sprocket) and sliding shoe wear • • • • 12
Check final drive chain tension and lubrication • • • • • 12
Check steering bearings and lubricate, if necessary • • -
Change front fork fluid • -
Visually check the front fork and rear shock absorber seals • • • • • 12
Check the freedom of movement and tightening of the side stand • • • • • 12
Visually check the fuel lines • • • • 12
Check rubbing points, clearance, freedom of movement and positioning of hoses and
• • • • • 12
electric wiring in view
Lubricate the levers at the handlebar and pedal controls • • • • 12
Change coolant • 48
Visually check the coolant level and sealing of the circuit • • • • • 12
Check tyre pressure and wear • • • • • 12
Check the battery charge level • • • • • 12
Check the operation of all electric safety devices (side stand sensor, front and rear
• • • • • 12
brake switches, engine kill switch, gear/neutral sensor)
Check lighting, turn indicators, horn and controls • • • • • 12
Reset the Service indication through the DDS 2.0 • • • • • -
Final test and road test of the motorcycle, testing safety devices (ex. ABS and DTC),
• • • • • 12
electric fans and idling
Softly clean the motorcycle • • • • • 12
Fill out that the service was performed in on-board documentation (Service Booklet) • • • • • 12
Checking the tightening of the rear brake disc screws and of the phonic wheel (with rear wheel shaft
removal)
Procedure to check the tightening of the rear brake disc screws and of the phonic wheel (with rear
wheel shaft removal)
Warning
The described procedures apply to all vehicle versions, regardless of the standard setting.
Use suitable instruments to lift the rear side of the vehicle from the subframe while respecting the safety rules.
Remove the rear wheel (Removing the rear wheel).
Remove clip (1) and loosen nut (2) to remove the rear wheel.
Then remove washer (3) and spacer (4) and tapered washer (4).
Loosen the two screws (5) that secure the eccentric hub to the swinging arm and loosen the final drive chain.
Remove clip (7) and loosen nut (8) to remove the final drive rear sprocket assembly.
Remove the lower washer (6).
Remove the two screws (9) that retain the brake calliper to the rear disc.
Slide out the rear wheel shaft assembly (10) with brake disc.
Procedure to check the tightening of the rear brake disc and phonic wheel retaining screws
Fix the rear wheel shaft in a vice paying utmost attention not to damage it.
Visually check the presence of certification marks (A) on all screws (11) that retain the brake disc and on the four
retaining screws (12) of the phonic wheel. Should the certification marks not be clear or misaligned, clean the
surfaces and apply the certification marks with an indelible felt-tip pen.
Tighten the four retaining screws (11) of the rear brake disc (13) to a torque of 30 Nm - THIS TIGHTENING
TORQUE IS DIFFERENT FROM THE NOMINAL ONE AND MUST BE APPLIED EXCLUSIVELY FOR THIS
CHECK.
Check that the 4 screws (11) have not rotated with respect to the certification marks.
— If the checked screw has not rotated, no other operation will be required.
— If the checked screw has rotated, it will be necessary to proceed as follows:

Remove the screw (11) that has rotated and erase the previous certification marks both from the screw and the
disc.
Thoroughly remove the previously applied threadlocker from the screw and female screw thread using a
mechanical brush and the solvent-based cleaner LOCTITE SF 7063 following the relevant use instructions.
Apply the specified product to the screw thread.
Tighten the checked screw (11) to a torque of 25±5% Nm.

Certify the checked screw (11) and the disc with an indelible felt-tip pen.
Tighten the 4 retaining screws (12) of the rear phonic wheel to a torque of 6 Nm - THIS TIGHTENING TORQUE
IS DIFFERENT FROM THE NOMINAL ONE AND MUST BE APPLIED EXCLUSIVELY FOR THIS CHECK.
Check that the 4 screws (12) have not rotated with respect to the certification marks.
— If the checked screw (12) has not rotated, no other operation will be required.
— If the checked screw (12) has rotated, it will be necessary to proceed as follows:
Remove the screw (12) that has rotated and erase the previous certification marks both from the screw and the
phonic wheel.
Thoroughly remove the previously applied threadlocker from the screw (12) and female screw thread using a
mechanical brush and the solvent-based cleaner LOCTITE SF 7063 following the relevant use instructions.
Apply the specified product to screw (12) thread.
Tighten the screw (12) to a torque of 5±10% Nm.

Certify (A) the screw (12) and the phonic wheel (14) with an indelible felt-tip pen.
Check the eccentric hub bearings.
Checking the eccentric hub bearings
A — Left Side
LH side bearings do not require scheduled maintenance (cleaning and greasing).
Remove the rear sprocket spacer (15).
Verify the bearing (16) conditions by checking that:
- the inner races rotate without generating uncommon noise;

- the inner races rotate freely (for example without any friction or hard spots);
- the races do not feature excessive axial and radial play values different from those of the new component;
The bearings (16) and the area around them can be cleaned using a dry cloth that does not leave any residues. Do
NOT use compressed air or aggressive solvents/agents that could damage the rubber seals. Should you find any
non-conformity on the component, replace it (as spare part, the eccentric hub assembly is supplied).
B — RH Side
RH side roller bearing does not require scheduled maintenance (cleaning and greasing).
Make sure that the installed bearing (17) rotates without generating uncommon noise;
- visually inspect the outer sealing ring (18).
Clean the bearing rollers (17) by mechanically removing the grease with a dry cloth that does not leave any
residues (do NOT use paper).
Do NOT use aggressive solvents or agents that could damage the bearing rubber seal lips.
Do NOT use compressed air to clean the area.
Check the status of the roller surfaces (17).
Remove the outer sealing ring (18).
Should you find any non-conformity on the component, replace it (as spare part, the eccentric hub assembly is
supplied).
Apply SKF LGWA 2 grease on the bearing rollers using a plastic spatula.
Apply at least 5 grams of product on the internal surface of the bearing.
Note
As an alternative to SKF LGWA 2 grease, it is possible to use the SKF VKG1 grease.
Proceed as described in points (A) and (B), grease the surface (highlighted in the figure) of the rear wheel shaft
(10) with a suitable quantity of specified product to facilitate the hub installation.
Refit the rear sprocket spacer (15).
Refit the final drive rear sprocket assembly: fit washer (6) and start nut (8) with thread greased using the specified
product.
Tighten nut (8) to a torque of 230Nm and fit clip (7).
Grease the two screws (9) (M8x1.25) that retain the rear brake calliper with the specified product and tighten
them to a torque 25Nm±5%.
Pull the rear brake master cylinder lever until the brake pads touch the brake disc.
Fit the rear wheel: fit spacer (4) and washer (3) on the wheel shaft.
Apply the specified product on the nut thread (2) and start it on the wheel shaft thread.
Tighten nut (13) to a torque of 230Nm and fit clip (1).
Place the bike on the side stand and tension the final drive chain by referring to the indication on the swinging arm.
Then tighten screw (5) (M14x1.5) securing eccentric hub to swinging arm, previously greased with the indicated
product to a torque of 40Nm±5%.
Adjusting the rear shock absorber
The rear shock absorber has adjusters that enable you to suit the setting to the load on the motorcycle.
Adjuster (1), located on the swinging arm, adjusts the damping during the rebound phase (return). Turn adjuster
(1) clockwise to stiffen the damping, or counter clockwise to soften it.
The two ring nuts (2), located in the shock absorber upper side, adjust the external spring preload. To change
spring preload, slacken the upper locking ring nut. Then TIGHTEN or SLACKEN the lower ring nut to INCREASE or
DECREASE spring preload.
STANDARD setting: from the fully closed position (clockwise):
- rebound: loosen adjuster (1) by -1.5 turns (from fully closed position);
- Spring preload: 0 mm from fully uncompressed.
Warning
The shock absorber is filled with gas under pressure and may cause severe damage if taken apart by unskilled
persons.
When carrying a passenger and luggage, set the rear shock absorber spring to proper preload to improve
motorcycle handling and keep safe clearance from the ground. You may find that rebound damping needs
adjusting as well. The shock absorber is adjusted by electric impulses sent by the instrument panel to the adjusters
inside the shock absorber body.
Warning
Danger! The bike touches the ground earlier than expected. Keep in mind the lean angle and the ground clearance
of the Version with Low Setup. The bike is lower because of the reduced suspension travel. The consequence could
be a reduced riding comfort. The rear shock absorber spring preload should be adjusted especially when riding with
passenger and/or luggage.
Adjusting the position of the gearchange pedal and rear brake pedal
The position of the gear shift and rear brake pedals in relation to the corresponding footpeg can be adjusted to suit
the preferred riding position.
Gear change pedal

Hold end (1) on the rod, then work flat (2) using an open-end wrench and slacken lock nut (3).
Loosen screw (4), so as to release the complete rod from the gearchange lever.
Turn rod (5), setting the gearchange pedal to the required position.
Secure gearchange lever to rod (5) tightening screw (4) to a torque of 8 Nm ± 10% after having applied the
indicated threadlocker.
Tighten lock nut (3) against the ball terminal (1).
Rear brake pedal
To adjust the position of the rear brake pedal, proceed as follows.

Loosen lock nut (7).
Turn pedal stroke adjusting screw (6) until pedal is in the desired position.
Tighten lock nut (7) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.
Operate the pedal by hand to check that there is 1.5 to 2 mm of free play before the brake bites.
If not, modify the length of the cylinder push-rod in the following mode.
Slacken off the check nut (10) on the cylinder pushrod.
Screw the rod (8) into the fork (9) to increase play, or unscrew it to reduce play.
Tighten the check nut (10) to a torque of 2.5 Nm ±10%, and check play again.
Adjusting the clutch lever and front brake lever
CLUTCH LEVER
To adjust clutch lever, refer to chapter "Adjusting the clutch control cable".
FRONT BRAKE LEVER
Pull in the lever (1) towards the throttle twistgrip to operate the front brake. The system is hydraulically operated
and you just need to pull the lever gently.
The brake lever has a dial adjuster (2) for adjusting the distance between lever and twistgrip on the handlebar. To
adjust it, keep lever (1) fully extended, and turn dial adjuster (2), turning it in correspondence of one of the four
foreseen positions.
Keep in mind that the position no. 1 corresponds to the maximum distance between the lever and the handgrip,
whereas position no. 5 corresponds to the minimum distance.
Warning
Set front brake lever when motorcycle is stopped.
Checking rear brake pad wear and replacing brake pads
Warning
Brake fluid is corrosive and will damage paint. Avoid contact with eyes and skin. In case of accidental contact,
wash thoroughly with water.
Important
On handing over the motorcycle after changing the brake pads, inform the Customer that the front brake must be
used gently for the first 100 km to allow the pads to bed in completely.
Check through the slot between the two calliper halves, and make sure that at least 1 mm (MIN) of the friction
material on pads is visible.
Important
Change both pads even if just one of them is worn.
Change the brake pads as follows.
Remove the snap ring (1) from the pad retaining pin (2).
Slide pad retaining pin (2) outwards.

Remove pad retaining clip (3) from between the two calliper halves.
Remove the rear brake calliper by loosening the screws (4).

Force the calliper pistons back into their seats by forcing and sliding out the old brake pads apart.
Remove the worn pads (5).
Note
Change pads that have a shiny or "vitrified" appearance.
Warning
Do not dispose of brake pads into the environment.
Smaltimento
Do not dispose of waste into the environment. Collect and deliver waste to authorized collecting centres. Dispose of
waste in compliance with the prevailing local and national standards. European Waste Catalogue Codes
recommended for waste disposal as indicated by Decision No 2001/118/EC: CER 16 01 12 (Brake pads, other than
those mentioned under item 16 01 11).
Note
It should be noted that the above-mentioned CER code is a general and non-binding provision, provided based on
product original composition and intended use. The user is thus responsible for selecting the CER code most
suitable to the concerned product, based on product real use and taking into account any alterations and/or
contaminations of the product, as well as any amendments to the prevailing standard on waste disposal.
Fit the new pads.

Refit rear brake calliper, then start and tighten the screws (4) to a torque of 25 Nm ±5%, after applying the
indicated threadlocker.
Insert pad retaining clip (3) and centring pin (2), locking it in place with ring (1).
Operate the brake pedal repeatedly so that the pads firmly bed in against the disc thanks to the brake fluid
pressure.
Check that the fluid level inside reservoir is between the MIN and MAX marks. If this is not the case, top up as
specified in chapter "Changing the fluid in the rear brake system".
Being the brake callipers a safety component of the motorcycle, follow the instruction indicated in chapter
"Removing the complete rear brake control" and remember to tighten the rear brake calliper screws (4) to a torque of
25 Nm ± 5% upon refitting.
Checking front brake pad wear and replacing brake pads
Warning
Warning
Important
On handing over the motorcycle after changing the brake pads, inform the Customer that the front brake must be
used gently for the first 100 km to allow the pads to bed in completely.
Check through the calliper slot and make sure that the friction material on pads (1) is visible.
Important
Change both pads even if just one of them is worn.
Note
Work in the same way on both front brake callipers.
Loosen the two screws (1) and remove calliper from disc.
Remove the safety split pin (2).
Turn shaft (3) clockwise and slide it out.
Remove the spring (4).
Force the calliper pistons back into their seats by forcing the old brake pads apart.
Remove the worn pads (5).
Note
Change pads that have a shiny or "vitrified" appearance.
Warning
Do not dispose of brake pads into the environment.
Smaltimento
recommended for waste disposal as indicated by Decision No 2001/118/EC: CER 16 01 12 (Brake pads, other than
those mentioned under item 16 01 11).
Note
Fit the new pads and their spring (4) making sure to position it as shown.
Fit the pad retaining pin (3) and fasten it with safety split pin (2).
Tighten screws (1) to a torque of 25 Nm ± 5%.

Turn the pad retaining pin (3) counter clockwise.
Operate the brake lever repeatedly so that the pads firmly bed in against the disc thanks to the brake fluid
pressure.
Check through the inspection glass (A) that the level in the master cylinder reservoir is not below the MIN mark.
If necessary, top up.
Hypermotard - Hypermotard SP
Hyperstrada
Being the brake callipers a safety component of the motorcycle, follow instructions indicated in "Removing the front
brake system".
Hypermotard - Hyperstrada (Changing the fluid in the front brake system).
Hypermotard SP (Changing the fluid in the front brake system).
Adjusting the chain tension
Move the bike slowly so as to find the position where chain upper section is more tensioned.
Set the motorcycle on the side stand.
Measure chain tension at the centre of the lower section, with the motorcycle on the side stand: lower the chain by
pressing down on it only with your finger, release it and measure the distance between the centre of the chain pins
and the aluminium section of the swingarm.
Value (A) must be:
A= (64÷66) mm (Hypermotard) (Normal Seat)

A= (54÷56) mm (Hypermotard) (Low Seat) (THAI version only)
A= (68÷70) mm (Hypermotard SP)
A= (60÷62) mm (Hyperstrada - Normal Seat)
A= (54÷56) mm (Hyperstrada - Low Seat)
Slacken off the two screws (1) that secure the rear wheel hub to the swinging arm.
Fit the pin wrench (A) part no. 88713.1038 inserting its tooth in the eccentric hub (2).
Rotate the eccentric hub (2) to obtain the correct chain tension.
Turn counter clockwise to tighten the chain; clockwise to loosen (from chain side view).
Important
An incorrectly tensioned chain will lead to early wear of the transmission components.
If the screws (1) are removed, lubricate with indicated product underhead and thread, then tighten the screws (1)
to a torque of 31 Nm ± 5% proceeding with sequence 1-2-1.
Warning
Correct tightening of swinging arm screws (1) is critical to rider and passenger safety.
Adjusting the steering head bearing play
Warning
Excessive handlebar play or shaking fork in the steering head indicate that the play of the steering head bearings
requires adjustment. Proceed as follows:
Loosen the clamp screw (1) that holds the steering tube to the steering head.
Slacken the clamp screws (2) securing the steering head to both fork legs.
Using the special tool (A) part no. 88713.1058 lock the adjusting ring nut (3) to a torque of 30 Nm ±5%, after
applying the indicated grease.
Push the steering head against the ring nut (3) and tighten the screw (1) to a torque of 18 Nm ±5% and screw (2)
following a (1-2-1) sequence to a torque of 10 Nm ±5%, after applying the indicated grease on all screws.
Clutch control cable adjustment
Warning
A wrong adjustment can seriously affect the clutch operation and duration.
A worn clutch tensions the clutch cable. Always check the free play, with cold engine, before using the vehicle.
Warning
Lever free play adjustment must be carried out with cold engine and with the motorcycle on its side stand and the
handlebar fully turned to the right.
When operating the clutch lever (1), you must clearly feel the passage from a very low resistance to a very high
resistance (operating force).
The free play corresponds to the lever travel where the clutch resistance force is very low.
Before positioning the nipple in its seat, lubricate the cable with the indicated product.
Determine ring nut (2) and adjuster (3) position; ring nut (2) must be at a distance (A) of at least 5 mm from the
lever rotation plate (4) and must not touch edge (5) of stop plate (6).
Operate the lever through its free play and check that distance "B" is between 3 mm and 4 mm.
Adjuster (3), located on the lever, allows a maximum adjustment (C) of 11 mm, whereas the standard adjustment
(starting one) is of 5 mm.
Attention
In case of a slipping clutch due to clutch wear, adjuster on the lever must NEVER be loosened, but screwed, as
described above.
If the described conditions are not met, restore them as follows:

Remove protection caps (7) and (8) and loosen adjuster (10) nut (9).
• To increase distance (A), increase the free play by tightening adjuster (10) and then loosening adjuster (3).
• To decrease distance (A), decrease the free play by loosening adjuster (10) and then screwing adjuster (3).
Tighten nut (9) to the specified torque while holding adjuster (10) and bring protective caps (7) and (8) back in
place.
Repeat all the tests.
Changing the fluid in the rear brake system
Unscrew the cover (1) of the rear brake fluid reservoir (2).
Attach a transparent plastic tubing to the bleed valve (3) and insert the other end of the tubing in a container
placed on the floor.
Siphon the fluid from the reservoir (2).

Fill the reservoir (2) with new oil up to the "MAX" mark.
Operate the brake pedal to pressurise the circuit.
Keep pedal pushed down.
Open the bleed valve (3) to allow fluid to flow out.

The pedal is at the end of travel when it is in the lower position.
Now, screw bleed valve (3) to a torque of 4Nm ±10%, and release the pedal; press the pedal again.
Repeat the above operation until the old fluid flows out completely.
Warning
After draining the old fluid from the reservoir and while filling the system, always keep the fluid level above the
MIN mark to avoid any air bubbles in the circuit.
Note
If bleeding tool is not available, move back calliper pistons as well.
Fill the reservoir (2) with the specified fluid taken from an intact container.
Important
During this operation, fluid level inside reservoir must remain above the MIN mark at all times. The end of the
transparent plastic hose must remain immersed in the discharged fluid at all times.
Operate brake pedal and keep it pressed during the whole filling operation.
BLEEDING THE REAR BRAKE SYSTEM

Connect bleeding tool to left-hand front brake calliper bleed valve (3) or to rear brake bleed valve (8).
Note
Follow the manufacturer's instructions when using a commercial brake bleeding tool.
Suck with the bleeding tool and open the bleed valve (3) making sure that the level of the concerned reservoir
does not fall below the "MIN" mark.
Continue this operation until all air is bled out of system.
Tighten bleed valve (3) to a torque of 4Nm ± 10%.
If you do not have a bleeding tool available, connect a transparent plastic tubing to the bleed valve (3) as outlined
in the draining procedure.
Warning
Dispose of oil and/or filter cartridges in compliance with environmental protection regulations.
Smaltimento
Do not dispose of the exhausted fluid into the environment; do not pour the product, either new or exhausted,
inside drains, water courses or the soil. Collect and deliver waste to authorized collecting centres. Dispose of waste
in compliance with the prevailing local and national standards.
European Waste Catalogue Codes recommended for waste disposal as indicated by Decision No 2001/118/EC: CER
13 02 05* (Mineral-based non-chlorinated engine, gear and lubricating oils waste).
Note
Press pedal to make half stroke or until system is pressurised, open bleed valve and let pedal make full stroke;
tighten bleed valve to the specified torque and release pedal.
Important
Do not release the brake pedal until the bleed valve has been fully tightened.
Repeat the operation until the fluid inside system is free of air bubbles.
Make sure that, with bleed valve duly closed, pressure is correctly developed through brake pedal.
Tighten bleed valve (3) to a torque of 4Nm ± 10%, and fit protective cap.
Level fluid and refit cover (1) on reservoir (2).

Changing the fluid in the front brake circuit
Warning
Remove the cover (1) with membrane from the front brake fluid reservoir (2) by undoing the screws (3).
Siphon the fluid from the reservoir (2).
Refit the membrane (without the plug) on the reservoir to avoid brake fluid splashes during the following
operations.
Move the brake calliper pistons back: to carry out this operation undo the fixing screws (4) of the callipers on the
fork bottom end and push both pads of every calliper, taking them apart; during this operation, be careful with the
fluid level, which must always be sucked out each time it flows back in the reservoir.
Once that all pistons of both callipers are fully moved back and that all the fluid in the tank has been sucked out,
connect to the bleed valve (5) a transparent tube by immersing the end in a container placed on the floor.
Fill up the reservoir (2) with new oil until the sight glass (A) is covered.
Pull the lever to make a 20 - 30 mm stroke and keep the lever in this position using a non-elastic clamp.
Loosen the bleed valve of the left-hand calliper (5) and then take the lever through the whole stroke to allow fluid
to flow out.
The lever is resting against the handgrip.
Tighten the bleed valve (5) to a torque of 10 Nm ±10% and then release the lever.
Repeat the above operation until the old fluid flows out completely.
Then, with the bleed valve definitely closed to the specified torque actuate repeatedly the lever until a pressure is
detected in the brake system.
Warning
After draining the old fluid from the reservoir and while filling the system, always keep the fluid level above the
MIN mark to avoid any air bubbles in the circuit.
To finish bleeding the entire ABS system, after the standard bleeding procedure of the just-described front braking
system and after "Changing the fluid in the rear brake system", perform the "Bleeding the ABS hydraulic system".
Warning
Note
With this procedure, the front brake system callipers are still filled with fluid; if callipers have to be drained as well,
move back calliper pistons by keeping the bleeding tool (if available) working and connected to bleed valve.
Note
Smaltimento
BLEEDING THE FRONT BRAKE SYSTEM
Fill the reservoir (2) with the indicated oil taken from an intact container.
Important
During this operation, fluid level inside reservoir must remain above the MIN mark at all times. The end of the
transparent plastic hose must remain immersed in the discharged fluid at all times.
Operate brake lever and keep them activated during the whole filling operation.
Connect bleeding tool to left-hand front brake calliper bleed valve (5).
Note
Follow the manufacturer's instructions when using a commercial brake bleeding tool.
Suck with the bleeding tool and open the bleed valve (5) making sure that the level of the concerned reservoir
does not fall below the "MIN" mark.
Continue this operation until all air is bled out of system. Tighten bleed valve (5) to a torque of 4Nm ± 10%.
If you do not have a bleeding tool available, connect a transparent plastic tubing to the bleed valve (5) as outlined
in the draining procedure.
Operate the lever to make half stroke or until system is pressurised, open bleed valve and let lever make full
stroke; tighten bleed valve to the specified torque and release lever.
Important
Do not release the brake lever until the bleed valve has been fully tightened.
Repeat the bleeding operation until the fluid inside system is free of air bubbles; once filling is completed, proceed
to bleeding by working on all system valves, one at a time.
Then repeat bleeding procedure on right-hand front calliper valve (5).
Make sure that, with bleed valves duly closed, pressure is correctly developed through brake lever or pedal.
Tighten bleed valves (5) and nut (6) to a torque of 4Nm ± 10%, and fit protective cap.
Level fluid and refit cover (1) by tightening screws (3) on reservoir (2).
Change coolant
Warning
Make sure the engine is cold before proceeding. Attempting to change the coolant with the engine hot could lead to
burns from hot coolant or scalding steam.
Remove the right-hand side fairing (Removing the fairings).
Place a container under the engine and set the motorcycle on its side stand.
Unscrew radiator plug (2).
Remove the expansion reservoir filler plug (1).
Slacken clamp (3), slide hose (4) out of radiator (5) and allow all coolant to drain in a container.
Loosen plug (6) from fluid drain hole located on the pump cover.
Allow the coolant to drain off completely.
Screw plug (6) in the fluid drain hole with a new seal.
Tighten plug (6) to a torque of 15 Nm ± 10%.
Collect radiator plug (2) and the tank or expansion reservoir filler (1).
Position hose (4) on radiator (5) and lock it with clamp (3).
Fill the circuit with new coolant through the radiator plug (1).
Connect hose (4) to radiator (5) and fix it with clip (3).
Wait several minutes for the coolant to fill all the internal passages.
Tighten expansion reservoir plug (1) and radiator plug (2).
Start the engine and wait for the coolant to reach 110 °C; run the engine for about 10 minutes.
Stop the engine and allow it to cool down, open radiator plug (2) so that all the air is expelled from the circuit.
Warning
Keep your hands, clothing and tools well clear of the radiator fan at all times; this fan starts automatically without
warning and could cause serious injury or damage.
Important
Check the circuit for possible leaks.
If necessary, top up the coolant through the expansion reservoir filler to bring the level up to the MAX. mark.
Tighten expansion reservoir plug (1) and radiator plug (2).
Refit the right hand side guard (Refitting the fairings).
Checking coolant level
Check the coolant level contained in the expansion reservoir, on the right-hand side of the vehicle at the intervals
specified in the "Scheduled maintenance chart".
The correct level must be between the MAX and MIN marks on the reservoir.
If the level is low, top up with the recommended coolant.
Remove the filler plug (1) and top up with new coolant to the specified level.
Refit the plug (1).
For optimal operating conditions (coolant mixture starting to freeze at ‑20 °C), the recommended coolant should be
mixed with water in the following percentages:
ANTIFREEZE: 35÷40% of the volume;
WATER: 65÷60% of the volume.
Important
Very hard water with a high mineral salt content can damage the engine.
Increase the amount of antifreeze to up to 55% volume in the case of very cold climates.
Important
Solutions with less than 30% of antifreeze will not provide sufficient protection against corrosion.
Changing and cleaning the air filters
The air filter must be replaced at the intervals specified in the "Scheduled maintenance chart".
Remove the seat (Removing the seat).

Remove the fairings (Removing the fairings).
Remove the fuel tank (Removing the fuel tank).
Remove clips (1) and (2) fastening electric wiring.
Loosen the five screws (3) and slide out the filter cover (4).
Collect airbox seal (5).

Loosen air filter ring nut (6) and remove air filter (7) and support (8) from filter cover (4).
Clean the filtering element (7) aiming a jet of compressed air from the inside to the outside, or replace it.
Important
A clogged air filter will reduce air intake and engine power, increase fuel consumption and cause a build up of
deposits on the spark plugs. Do not use the motorcycle without a filter as impurities in the air could get into the
engine and cause damage.
Note
Do not dispose of replaced filters into the environment.
Smaltimento
If filtering element is replaced, do not dispose of waste into the environment. Collect and deliver waste to
authorized collecting centres. Dispose of waste in compliance with the prevailing local and national standards.
15 02 02* (Absorbents, filter materials (including oil filters not otherwise specified), wiping cloths, protective
clothing contaminated by dangerous substances).
Note
Important
If the motorcycle is used in very damp or dusty conditions, the air filter cartridge must be changed more
frequently.
Insert filter (7) on support (8) and fit them on filter cover (4), tighten ring nut (6) to a torque of 6 Nm ± 10%.
Refit seal (5) in its seat on airbox, so as to mate the two ends.
Fit air filter unit on airbox.
Start and tighten the five screws (3) to a torque of 2 Nm ± 10%, in a cross pattern.
Tie wiring as shown using two ties (2) and two ties (1).
Remove the vertical head exhaust pipe (Removing the exhaust system).
Check the air filter (9) in the horizontal timing belt cover (10).
Note
The figures show an engine block removed from the frame.
Loosen screws (11) that retain the horizontal belt external cover (10) and remove it from the horizontal head by
sliding the cover downwards.
Loosen the screws (12) and remove the filter (9).

Once the check has been carried out, refit filter (9), start (without tightening) screws (12) and refit the horizontal
timing belt cover (10) on the horizontal piston-cylinder assembly by tightening screws (11) to a torque of 10 Nm
(Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm) for plastic guards and of 6 Nm (Min. 5.5 Nm - Max. 6.5 Nm) for carbon covers (SP
version).
Position horizontal belt cover (10) on the horizontal head by inserting it from above.
If they are not new, apply specified threadlocker to retaining screws (11) and start them.
Tighten guard (10) retaining screws (11) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max 11 Nm) for plastic guards and of
6 Nm (Min. 5.5 Nm - Max 6.5 Nm) for carbon guards (SP version).
Refit the removed components.
Change spark plugs
Warning
Do not dispose of waste components into the environment.
Smaltimento
recommended for waste disposal as indicated by Decision No 2001/118/EC: CER 16 01 22 (components not
otherwise specified).
Note
Check the colour of the ceramic insulation around the central electrode: an even, light brown colour indicates the
engine is in good condition and running at the right temperature.
Check central electrode for wear.
Warning
Do not use spark plugs with inadequate heat rating or incorrect thread length.
The spark plug must be securely installed.
If a spark plug is loose, it can overheat and damage the engine.
Spark plug type

Make: NGK
Type: MAR9A-J

Working on the vertical head, undo the screws (1), collect washer (2) and slide out coil (3).
Using tool part no. 88173.2877, replace spark plug and tighten the new one to a torque of 12 Nm (Min. 11 Nm -
Max. 13 Nm).
Position coil (3), washer (2) and tighten screw (1) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm – Max. 11 Nm).
Apply the same procedure to the horizontal head.
Undo screw (4) and collect washer (5).
Loosen coil (6).
Using tool part no. 88713.2877, replace spark plug and tighten the new one to a torque of 12 Nm (Min. 11 Nm -
Max. 13 Nm).
Position coil (6), washer (5) and tighten screw (4) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm – Max. 11 Nm).
Refit the fuel tank (Refitting the fuel tank).

Refit the fairings (Refitting the fairings).
Refit the seat (Refitting the seat).
Change timing belts
To replace the timing belts follow the procedure described under paragraph "Removing the mobile tensioner/timing belt"
and "Refitting the mobile tensioner/timing belt".
Checking valve clearance

Remove the side fairings (Removing the fairings).
Remove the airbox (Removing the airbox), the throttle body (Removing the throttle body), the blow-by and the oil
breather pipe.
Remove the supply system and the injectors from the intake manifolds.
Remove the water radiator lower retainer from the engine (Removing the water radiator).
Remove the cylinder head covers (Removing the camshafts).
Note
For clarity, the figures show the engine removed from the frame.
Undo the two retaining screws (1) of the centre cap (2) over the end of the crankshaft.
Fit the tool handgrip part no. 88765.1657 in the holes of the generator cover to be able to turn the crankshaft so
that the valve on which the check is carried out is in rest position.
Move the piston of the cylinder being checked to TDC upon combustion stage: in this condition, all valves are
closed and the camshafts come in rest position and, therefore, free to rotate; check the valve clearance on the
cylinder head you are working on.
Checking the opening clearance

Using a feeler gauge (A), check the clearance between the opening rocker arm (3) and the lowest point of the
camshaft lobe (4), taking care not to compress the rocker arm return spring. The value must be within the
prescribed ones.
If not so, remove the opening shim (5) and replace it with one of suitable height to obtain the prescribed
clearance.
Note
Opening rocker arm shims measuring 1.80 to 3.90 are available as spare parts: the size is punched on the shim.
Checking the closing clearance
Using a feeler gauge (A), check the clearance between the closing rocker arm (6) sliding shoe and the highest
point of the camshaft lobe (7).
The value must be within the prescribed ones.
If not so, remove the closing shim and replace it with one of suitable height to obtain the prescribed clearance.
Note
Closing rocker arm shims measuring 2.2 to 4.5 are available as spare parts: the size is punched on the shim.
Specified values:
Assembly value Checking clearance
Make sure that the O-ring (8) is installed on the cover (2).
Refit cover (2) and tighten the two retaining screws (1) to 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm).
Refit the cylinder head covers (Refitting the camshafts).

Refit the water radiator lower retainer on the engine block (Refitting the water radiator).
Refit the supply system and the injectors on the intake manifolds.
Refit the airbox (Refitting the airbox), the throttle body (Refitting the throttle body), the blow-by and the oil breather
pipe.
Refit the side fairings (Refitting the fairings).
Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge
Note
This operation has to be carried out with hot engine (but turned off) because the oil in these conditions is more
fluid and comes out faster and completely.
If present, remove the complete sump guard unit.

Remove the drain plug (3) with the gasket from the oil sump and allow the oil to drain off.
Warning
Smaltimento
Do not dispose of the waste into the environment; do not pour the product, either new or exhausted, inside drains,
water courses or the soil. Collect and deliver waste to authorized collecting centres. Dispose of waste in compliance
with the prevailing local and national standards. European Waste Catalogue Codes recommended for waste
disposal as indicated by Decision No 2001/118/EC: CER 13 02 05* (Mineral-based non-chlorinated engine, gear
and lubricating oils): CER 16 01 07* (Oil filters).
Note
Remove any metal deposits from the end of the magnetic drain plug (3), apply specified threadlocker and refit the
drain plug complete with seal (A) to the sump.
Tighten plug (3) to a torque of 42 Nm (Min. 38 Nm – max. 46 Nm).
Remove the oil sump filter cartridge (4) using service tool no. 88713.2906.
Important
Dispose of the used filter, do not re-use it.
Fit a new cartridge (4) using tool no. 88713.0944 tightening it to a torque of 11 Nm (Min. 10 Nm - Max 12 Nm):
lubricate seal with engine oil.
Note
It is advisable to refill the filter cartridge with engine oil before fitting it: this enables the recommended oil level to
be maintained without topping up.
Screw it into relevant seat and tighten it to 11 Nm (Min. 10 Nm - Max. 12 Nm).

Every two oil changes, clean the oil intake mesh filter.
Loosen outer plug (5) and collect seal (6).
Loosen the filtering element (7) and slide it out.
Loosen drain plug (3) and collect seal (A).
Clean the mesh filter with fuel and compressed air. Take care not to damage the mesh.
Lubricate mesh filter thread (7) with the specified grease.
Refit mesh filter (7) and tighten it to a torque of 42 Nm (Min. 38 Nm - Max. 46 Nm).
Insert seal (6) in plug (5) with the cutting edge facing the crankcase.
Tighten plug (5) to a torque of 42 Nm (Min. 38 Nm – max. 46 Nm).
Place seal (A) on the plug, apply specified threadlocker and tighten plug (3) to a torque of 42Nm (Min. 38 Nm -
Max. 46 Nm).
Remove the filler plug (2) and carry out refilling with the specified oil type up to reaching the notch that identifies
the MAX level in the sight glass.
Refit the filler plug (2). Run the engine at idle speed for a few minutes.
Ducati recommends you use Shell Advance 4T Ultra 15W-50 oil. As an alternative it is possible to use a motorcycle
engine oil having the same degree SAE 15W-50 and meeting the following specifications JASO: MA2 and API: SM.
Check that there are no oil leaks and that the warning light on the instrument panel switches off a few seconds
after starting up the engine. If not, stop the engine and trace the fault.
After a few minutes, check that the oil level is the specified one; if necessary, restore the MAX. level.
Refit any removed parts.
If removed, refit the complete sump guard unit.
Check engine oil level
Check the engine oil level through the sight glass (1) on the right-hand side of the oil sump.
Stop the engine and allow a few minutes for the oil to settle to a steady level.
Oil level must be checked with the vehicle perfectly upright and the engine cold. Oil level must be between the MIN
and MAX marks.
Top up if the level is low.
Remove the filler plug (2) and top up with the recommended oil.
Ducati recommends you use Shell Advance 4T Ultra 15W-50 oil. As an alternative it is possible to use a motorcycle
engine oil having the same degree SAE 15W-50 and meeting the following specifications JASO: MA2 and API: SM.
Refit the filler plug (2).
REAR GRAB HANDLE KIT
Removing the rear grab handles

Remove the side pannier kit, with lower support (Side pannier kit).
Loosen the lower screws (1).
Slide out rear grab handle unit (2) from behind.

Loosen screws (3) and remove central cover (4).
Loosen screw (5), collecting nut (6) from the lower side.
Separate LH (upper ) grab handle (7) from RH (lower) grab handle (8).
Refitting the grab handles
Mate LH (upper) grab handle (7) with RH (lower) grab handle (8) and lock them in place by tightening screw (5) on
nut (6) to a torque of 5Nm±10%.
Position central cover (4) and tighten the screws (3) to a torque of 10Nm ± 10%.
Fit rear grab handle unit (2) from behind on tail light and tail guard.
Tighten lower screws (1) to the torque of 22Nm±10%.

Refit side pannier kit, with lower support (Side pannier kit).
FRONT PLEXIGLASS KIT
Removing the front plexiglass

Loosen the screws (1).
Remove plexiglass (2), collecting rubber seals (3) from support (4).
If plexiglass support (4) has to be removed as well, proceed as indicated.

Loosen screws (5) and (6).
Remove headlight trim (7) from headlight fairing frame (8), paying attention to rear tabs (A), (B), (C), (D).
Loosen screws (9) and remove plexiglass support (4).
Refitting the front plexiglass
Important
Before assembly, make sure that all parts are clean and in perfect conditions. Take all the necessary measures to
avoid damaging any part you are working on.
Position plexiglass support (4) on vehicle and tighten the two screws (9) to a torque of 5Nm±10%.
Taking special care to rear tabs (A), (B), (C) and (D), position headlight trim (7) on headlight fairing (8).
Make sure that rubber seals (3) are in place, then position plexiglass (2) on support.
Tighten the screws (1) to a torque of 3Nm±10%.
Side pannier kit
Removing the side panniers

To release pannier, insert key (4) inside lock (5) and turn it counter clockwise; push pannier down until it clicks to
release, then pull it up.
If lower support (6) has to be removed, loosen screws (7) and remove it from below.
Fitting the Side pannier
Warning
If lower support and pannier kit are not going to be refit, proceed as specified.
If lower support (6) and pannier kit are not going to be refit, replace the two rear screws (7) of number plate
holder with the two screws (M8x14) supplied with the motorcycle, tightening them to a torque of 20Nm±10%.
Lay LH pannier (1) on nipples (2) and (3) matching recesses, and push down until it locks in place.
Insert key (4) inside lock (5) and turn it clockwise to lock pannier in place.
Repeat the operation for the RH pannier.
If previously removed, refit lower support (6) and tighten screws (7) in a cross pattern to a torque of 22Nm±10%.
Fitting the lock nipples on side panniers
Note
Hereinafter is the assembly procedure of lock on LH side pannier; follow the same operations also for RH side
pannier.
Take lock nipples (8) from bike underseat kit.

Take the lock assembly kit located inside side panniers.
Check wholeness of the kit supplied with panniers before assembly.

Position Description Quantity
8 Lock nipple 1
9 Lock cam 1
10 Self-tapping screws securing cam to lock nipple 2

11 Upper pannier support 1
12 Lock nipple assembly fastening clip 1
13 Upper pannier support retaining screws 4
14 Upper pannier support retaining nuts 4
Fix cam (9) to lock nipple (8) with screws (10).
Warning
The holes on lock nipple are NOT threaded, so use the indicated self-tapping screws. Take special care when
securing them.
Tighten self-tapping screws (3) to a torque of 0.6 Nm±10%.
Apply the indicated product on nipple side, and insert the lock nipple assembly inside the upper pannier support
hole (11).
Warning
Check that nipple is positioned as shown in the figure: its protruding part must be facing up.
Insert the nipple assembly fastening clip (12) inside upper pannier support (11).
Open LH side pannier and inner zip of the shell on support side.
Remove the four screws and the relevant service nuts from pannier close to upper pannier support fastener.
Insert the four fastening screws (13) inside the relevant holes, inside pannier, towards the outside.
Insert upper pannier support (11) on screws (13) and start nuts (14). Tighten the screws (13) to a torque of
2.2Nm ± 10%.
Close the inner zip of the shell on support side.
Check for lock correct operation and fastening on bike.
In case of rain, protect the content of the side panniers using the waterproof bags (15) provided inside of them.
To ensure protection against water, fold the bag edge on itself THREE times, then close the retainer (16) on the
folding opposite side (as indicated in figure).
Place bag (15) in the side pannier ALWAYS with the folded part facing up.
Refitting the rear-view mirrors
Note
This procedure is described only for one vehicle version, but applies to all of them.
Position the RH mirror (2) with nut (3) on the U-bolt.

Screw the RH rear-view mirror (2) in the indicated direction until reaching the required position.
Then, keeping the rear-view mirror in its position, tighten nut (3), always in the indicated direction, to a torque of
40Nm±10%.
Fit RH rear-view mirror (2) rubber block (1).

Position the LH rear-view mirror (4) with nut (5) on the U-bolt.
Screw the LH rear-view mirror (4) in the indicated direction until reaching the required position. Then, keeping the
rear-view mirror in its position, screw nut (5), always in the indicated direction, until tightening it.
Fit LH rear-view mirror (4) rubber block (1).

Removing the rear-view mirrors
Note
Lift RH rear-view mirror (2) rubber block (1).
Loosen nut (3) and RH rear-view mirror (2) in the indicated direction to remove it.
Lift LH rear-view mirror (4) rubber block (1).
Loosen nut (5) and LH rear-view mirror (4) in the indicated direction to remove it.
Refitting the headlight fairing
Note
Position headlight fairing (2) on headlight support (4) by inserting headlight fairing tabs (A) inside seats (S) on
headlight support.
Start screws (3) securing headlight fairing (2) to headlight lower bracket.
Start screws (1) securing headlight fairing (2) to headlight support.
Tighten screws (1) and (3) to a torque of 2 Nm ± 10 %.
Removing the headlight fairing
Note
Loosen and remove the screws (1) securing headlight fairing (2) to headlight support.
Loosen and remove the screws (3) securing headlight fairing (2) to headlight lower bracket.
Slide out the headlight fairing (2) from headlight support (4).
Refitting the fairings
If removed, refit fairing inner panels.

Position LH panel (11) on tank: fit groove (13) on tank tab (14).
Start screw (10) securing LH panel (11) to tank.
Tighten the screw (10) to a torque of 2 Nm ± 10%.
To refit RH panel (12) follow the same procedure used to refit LH panel (11).
Set fairing (2) closer to tank, making fairing inserts (7) match with tank seats (8).
Start screws (5) retaining LH fairing (2) to LH panel (6).
Start screw (4) retaining LH fairing (2) to tank.
Fit the spacer (3) behind fairing (2).
Using a wrench to hold spacer (3) from fairing inner side, start screw (1) securing LH fairing (2) to frame.
Tighten the screws (1) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.

To refit RH fairing (9) follow the same procedure used to refit LH fairing (2).
Removing the fairings
Using a wrench to hold everything in place from fairing inner side, loosen and remove screw (1) securing LH fairing
(2) to frame.
Collect threaded bush (3) positioned behind fairing (2).

Loosen and remove screw (4) securing LH fairing (2) to tank.
Loosen and remove screws (5) securing LH fairing (2) to LH panel (6).
Slide fairing (2) outward, paying attention to fairing inserts (7) with tank seats (8).
To remove RH fairing (9) follow the same procedure used to remove LH fairing (2).
It is now possible to remove fairing inner panels.
Loosen and remove screw (10) securing LH panel (11) to tank.
Slide out LH panel (11) towards bike front end, and remove it.
To remove RH panel (12) follow the same procedure used to remove LH panel (11).
Refitting the rear side body panels
If tail guard (2) has been disassembled into RH grab handle (3) and LH grab handle (4), assemble them by
positioning RH grab handle (3) and LH grab handle (4) on tail guard and start screws (5).
Tighten the screws to a torque of 5Nm±10%.
Join RH grab handle (3) and LH grab handle (4) with screw (6) and nut (7).
Tighten screw (6) to a torque of 5Nm±10% by counter-holding nut (7).
Position tail guard (2) on motorcycle.
Start retaining screws (1) on tail guard (2).

Tighten the screws (1) to a torque of 20 Nm ± 10 %.
Removing the rear side body panels

Loosen retaining screws (1) on tail guard (2).
Remove tail guard (2) from the motorcycle.

Refitting the seat
Position latch (5) and tighten screws (6) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10.
The seat lock cable (7) must be fitted inside the compartment, as shown in the figure.
Position seat (1) on the motorcycle.

The front tabs (2) of the seat must be engaged with pins (3) of the tank.
Once the front part of the seat is correctly positioned, engage the seat central tab (C) under the central supporting
bracket (D).
Keep the rear part lifted and push the central area of the seat.
Pin (3) in the rear part of seat (1) must be positioned so as to be aligned with seat (4) on the rear subframe.
Lower seat (1) until it is properly fastened.
Removing the seat
Open the lock.
Lift up seat (1).

Remove seat (1).
To remove latch (5), loosen screws (6).
Refitting the rear mudguard
Note
Position the rear mudguard (1) on the swinging arm.

If screws are not new, apply specified threadlocker to screws (4).
Secure rear mudguard by starting screws (4) with washers.
Tighten the screws to a torque of 5Nm±10%.
After having refitted the rear mudguard, you must refit the rear wheel (2) (Refitting the rear wheel) as well as the
silencer (Refitting the silencer).
LINK.
Removing the rear mudguard
Note
To remove rear mudguard (1), you must remove silencer (Removing the silencer) and the rear wheel (2) (Removing
the rear wheel).
Loosen screws (4) and collect the relevant washers.

Refitting the front mudguard
Position the front mudguard (2) between the two forks and move it up to the fork bottom ends.
Position the cables (4) of the front braking system and the speed sensor on tabs (5) of front mudguard (2).
If screws (1) are not new, apply the specified threadlocker.

Fit washers (3) to the relevant screws (1).
Start screws (1) securing front mudguard (2) to the forks.
Tighten the screws (1) to a torque of 8 Nm ± 10 %.
Hypermotard
Hyperstrada
Removing the front mudguard
Loosen screws (1) securing front mudguard (2) to the forks.
Hypermotard
Hyperstrada
Collect the washer (3) of each screw (1).
Release the cables (4) of the front braking system and the speed sensor from tabs (5) of front mudguard (2).
Slide front mudguard (2) upwards taking care not to damage the forks and the braking system.
Wirings not branched
Generator

Pos. DESCRIPTION
1 Generator cable
A - Tie the generator cable (1) to the immobilizer antenna connector.

Riding Mode
The rider can choose from 3 different preset bike configurations (Riding Modes) and pick the one that best suits
his/her riding style or ground conditions. The Riding Modes allow user to instantly change the engine power
delivery (Power Mode), ABS, DTC settings and instrument panel graphics.
Available Riding Modes: Sport, Touring and Urban. Within every Riding Mode, the rider can customise any settings.
Power Mode
The Power Modes are the different engine maps the rider can select to change power level and delivery to suit
his/her own riding style and surface conditions.
There are three Power Modes, one for each Riding Mode:
- LOW, with 'soft' power delivery;

- MED, with 'soft' power delivery;
- HIGH, with 'instant' power delivery.
Ride by Wire (RbW)

The Ride by Wire system is the electronic device that controls throttle opening and closing. Since there is no
mechanical connection between the throttle twistgrip and the throttle bodies, the ECU can adjust power delivery by
directly affecting throttle opening angle.
The Ride by Wire system allows you to obtain different power level and delivery according to the selected Riding
Mode (Power Mode), but even to accurately control the engine brake (EBC), thereby helping to control the rear
wheel slipping (DTC).

The Ducati Traction Control system (DTC) supervises the rear wheel slipping control and settings vary through
eight different levels that are programmed to offer a different tolerance level to rear wheel slipping. Each Riding
Mode features a pre-set intervention level.
Level eight indicates system intervention whenever a slight slipping is detected, while level one is for very expert
riders because it is less sensitive to slipping and intervention is hence softer.
Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) 9.1MP

ABS 9ME system is a two-channel latest-generation system that actuates combined braking with anti lift-up
function for the rear wheel so as to guarantee not only a reduced stopping distance, but also a higher stability
under braking.
The system features 3 levels, one associated to each Riding Mode.
Ducati Data Analyzer+ (DDA+)

DDA+ is the latest generation of the Ducati Data Analyzer, with built-in GPS signal to create a "virtual finish line".
The system automatically detects lap end and stops the lap timer, without the rider needing to do anything.
Thanks to the built-in GPS signal, it also shows the trajectories on track map and the key motorcycle parameters:
throttle opening, speed, rpm, gear engaged, engine temperature, DTC intervention.
ABS
Antilock Braking System
BBS
Black Box System
CAN
Controller Area Network
DDA
DUCATI Data Acquisition
DSB
Dashboard
DTC
DUCATI Traction Control
ECU
Engine Control Unit
E-LOCK
Electronic Main Switch Set
GPS
Global Positioning System
Branch 9
Warning
The figures represent a vehicle and are valid for all versions, except where specified.
Table 9A

Pos. DESCRIPTION
1 Ride by wire
Branch 8
Warning
Table 8A

Pos. DESCRIPTION
1 RH fan
Table 8B

Pos. DESCRIPTION
2 Purge valve
Table 8C

Pos. DESCRIPTION
3 Horizontal potentiometer (TPS)
4 Vertical potentiometer (TPS)
Table 8D

Pos. DESCRIPTION
5 Rpm sensor (pick-up)

Branch 7
Warning
Table 7A

Pos. DESCRIPTION
1 Front fuse box

Table 7B

Pos. DESCRIPTION
2 ABS connector
Table 7C

Pos. DESCRIPTION
3 Rear speed sensor

Note
In this area, the rear speed sensor cable must be keep as looped as possible, to avoid its contact with the exhaust
pipes.
Table 7D

Pos. DESCRIPTION
4 Rear stop switch

Table 7E

Pos. DESCRIPTION
5 Secondary air system

Table 7F

Pos. DESCRIPTION
6 Horizontal injector
Table 7G

Pos. DESCRIPTION
7 Rider power socket (Only for Hyperstrada version)

Branch 6
Warning
Table 6A

Pos. DESCRIPTION
1 Horizontal oxygen sensor

Table 6B

Pos. DESCRIPTION
2 System ground
Table 6C

Pos. DESCRIPTION
3 Engine temperature sensor

Table 6D

Pos. DESCRIPTION
4 Horizontal coil
Table 6E

Pos. DESCRIPTION
5 Side stand switch

Table 6F

Pos. DESCRIPTION
6 Oil pressure switch

Branch 5
Warning
Table 5A

Pos. DESCRIPTION
1 BBS control unit
2 Rear wiring connection
3 Diagnosis
4 Rear fuse box
5 Solenoid starter — starter motor
A Tail light
Table 5B

Pos. DESCRIPTION
6 Exhaust valve motor
7 ABS positive
Branch 4
Warning
Table 4A

Pos. DESCRIPTION
1 ECU diagnosis
Table 4B

Pos. DESCRIPTION
2 Vertical coil
Table 4C

Pos. DESCRIPTION
1 ECU diagnosis
3 Vehicle ECU connector
7 Engine ECU connector

Table 4D

Pos. DESCRIPTION
4 Passenger power socket (Only for Hyperstrada version)

Table 4E

Pos. DESCRIPTION
5 Injection relay
6 Main relay
Table 4F

Pos. DESCRIPTION
8 Alarm
Branch 3
Warning
Table 3A

Pos. DESCRIPTION
1 Horizontal MAP sensor
2 Vertical MAP sensor

Table 3B

Pos. DESCRIPTION
3 Vertical injector
Table 3C

Pos. DESCRIPTION
4 Vertical oxygen sensor

Table 3D

Pos. DESCRIPTION
5 Gear sensor
A - Tie together the vertical lambda sensor wiring branch and the gear sensor cable (5).
B- Tie the rear RH wiring branch and the gear sensor cable (5) to the ABS control unit/Rear brake calliper pipe.
C - Tie the vertical lambda sensor wiring branch and the gear sensor cable (5) to the RH subframe.
D - Tie the vertical lambda sensor wiring branch and the gear sensor cable (5) to the relevant support.
Branch 2
Warning
Table 2A

Pos. DESCRIPTION
1 Key switch
Table 2B

Pos. DESCRIPTION
2 Immobilizer
Table 2C

Pos. DESCRIPTION
3 LH fan
Table 2D

Pos. DESCRIPTION
4 Voltage regulator
Table 2E

Pos. DESCRIPTION
5 Front speed sensor

Branch 1
Warning
Table 1A

Pos. DESCRIPTION
1 Instrument panel
Table 1B

Pos. DESCRIPTION
2 Temperature sensor
Table 1C

Pos. DESCRIPTION
3 Headlight
Table 1D

Pos. DESCRIPTION
4 Left-hand switch
5 Front left turn indicator
6 Clutch switch
Table 1E

Pos. DESCRIPTION
7 Front brake switch
8 Front right turn indicator
9 Right-hand switch
Table 1F

Pos. DESCRIPTION
10 Horn
11 Right-hand heated handgrip presetting
12 Left-hand heated handgrip presetting

Routing of wiring on frame
BRANCHES
Warning
Position main wiring as shown in the figure.
Take care to correctly fasten all parts with ties or cable rings.
BRANCH KEY
BRANCHES DESCRIPTION

Branch 1 Instrument panel
Temperature sensor
Headlight
Left-hand switch
Front left turn indicator
Clutch switch
Front brake switch
Front right turn indicator
Right-hand switch
Horn
Right-hand heated handgrip presetting
Left-hand heated handgrip presetting

Branch 2 Key switch
Immobilizer
LH fan
Voltage regulator
Front speed sensor
Branch 9

Branch 3 Horizontal MAP sensor
Vertical MAP sensor
Branch 7
Branch 6
Vertical injector
Vertical oxygen sensor
Gear sensor

Branch 4 ECU diagnosis
Vertical coil
Vehicle ECU connector
Passenger power socket (Only for Hyperstrada version)
Injection relay
Main relay
Engine ECU connector
Alarm

Branch 5 BBS (Black Box System) control unit
Rear wiring connection

- Rear right turn indicator
- Rear left turn indicator
- Ground
- Light
Diagnostic socket
Rear fuse box
Starter relay
Exhaust valve
ABS positive

Branch 6 Horizontal oxygen sensor
System ground
Horizontal coil
Side stand switch
Oil pressure switch

Branch 7 Front fuse box
ABS connector
Rear speed sensor
Rear stop switch
Secondary air system
Horizontal injector
Rider power socket (Only for Hyperstrada version)
Branch 8

Branch 8 RH fan
Purge valve
Horizontal potentiometer (TPS)
Vertical potentiometer (TPS)

Branch 9 Ride by wire
Fuse box key
Front fuse box key
Pos El. item Rat.
1 Lights 10 A
2 Instrument panel 10 A
3 Key-1 15 A
4 Key-2 10 A
5 Key-7SM 15 A
6 Injection 20 A
7 - -
Rear fuse box key
Pos El. item Rat.
1 Key-sense 7.5 A
2 Diagnosis 7.5 A
3 Black Box System (BBS) 10 A
4 ABS 1 30 A
5 ABS 2 25 A
6 Alarm 10 A
7 Engine control unit 7.5 A

Injection /electric system diagram key
1) Right-hand switch
2) Ignition system (ignition switch)
3) Main relay
4) Regulator
5) Generator
6) Navigator
7) Front fuse box
8) Starter motor
9) Fused solenoid starter
10) Battery
11) Wiring ground
12) Data acquisition / Diagnosis
13) Rear fuse box
14) ABS control unit
15) ABS diagnosis
16) Front speed sensor
17) Rear speed sensor
18) RH fan
19) LH fan
20) Tail light
21) Rear right turn indicator
22) Rear wiring
23) Rear left turn indicator
24) Exhaust valve motor
25) Vehicle control unit (BBS)
26) Anti-theft system alarm
27) Oil pressure switch
28) Gear sensor
29) Side stand switch
30) Clutch switch
31) Timing/rpm sensor
32) Vertical MAP sensor
33) Horizontal MAP sensor
34) Engine temperature
35) Vertical oxygen sensor
36) Horizontal oxygen sensor
37) Throttle twistgrip position sensor (APS)
38) Horizontal potentiometer motor / ride-by-wire (TPS/ ETV)
39) Vertical potentiometer motor / ride-by-wire (TPS/ ETV)
40) Horizontal coil
41) Vertical coil
42) Horizontal main injector
43) Vertical main injector
44) Secondary air actuator
45) Fuel pump
46) Fuel pump relay
47) Control unit - frame connector
48) Control unit - engine connector
49) Left-hand switch
50) Front left turn indicator
51) Horn
52) Air temperature sensor
53) Heated handgrips
54) Instrument panel
55) Rear stop light
56) Front stop light
57) Front right turn indicator
58) Headlight
59) Serial line
60) Immobilizer
61) Rider power socket
62) Passenger power socket
63) Purge Valve
Wire colour coding
B Blue
W White
V Violet
Bk Black
Y Yellow
R Red
Lb Light blue
Gr Grey
G Green
Bn Brown
O Orange
P Pink
Rectifier-regulator
The regulator (1) is placed on front side of the vehicle, behind the steering tube.
The rectifier/regulator consists of an aluminium casing containing the diodes that rectify the current produced by
the generator.
It also contains an electronic device that regulates the current supplied by the generator in accordance with battery
voltage.
If the battery is drained, the current has the value necessary to restore optimum operating conditions of the
battery itself. While, if the battery is fully charged, the current value will be lower.
Note
Check the charging current by using the "DDS" diagnosis instrument.
Removing the regulator

Disconnect the voltage regulator connector (2) and the generator connector (3) from regulator (1).
Loosen the two front screws on regulator (1) and remove them together with the regulator.
Important
Do not disconnect the battery cables when engine is running because this would cause irreparable damage to the
regulator.
Refitting the regulator
Position the regulator (1) on the support.

Tighten screws to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%.
Important
Do not disconnect the battery cables when engine is running because this would cause irreparable damage to the
regulator.
Connect the voltage regulator connector (2) and the generator connector (3) to regulator.
Refit the fuel tank (Refitting the fuel tank)

Regulator fuse
The 30 A fuse, positioned inside solenoid (1), on the rear side of the rear subframe, protects the electronic
regulator.
Remove the fuse cap (A) to reach it.

A blown fuse can be identified by breakage of the inner filament (B).
Important
Switch the ignition key to OFF before replacing the fuse to avoid possible short-circuits.
Warning
Never use a fuse with a rating other than the specified value. Failure to observe this rule may damage the electric
system or even cause fire.
Generator
It is equipped with a 14 V, 460 W generator, consisting of a fixed element (stator, A) located in the generator
cover and of a movable element (rotor, B) fastened to the crankshaft.
To check the battery charging system for faults, use the "DDS" diagnosis instrument and follow the instructions
given in the paragraph "Checking the battery charging system".
If checks have a negative outcome, the whole generator (rotor and stator) must be replaced.
If checks have a favourable outcome, reconnect the generator to the regulator with ignition key on OFF. Make sure
that no cables are damaged or disconnected.
Removing the generator

Drain the coolant (Changing the coolant).
Remove the front sprocket cover (Removing the front sprocket cover).
Drain the engine oil (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Remove the pump-cylinder hoses (Removing the cylinder/piston assembly).
Remove the pump-water radiator hose (Removing cooling system hoses and unions).
Disconnect the cables of the generator side electric system.

Remove the generator cover, the stator (A) and the rotor (B).
Refitting the generator
Fit the rotor (B), the stator (A) and the generator cover.
Connect the cables of the generator side electric system.
Refit the pump-water radiator hose (Refitting cooling system hoses and unions).
Refit the pump-cylinder hoses (Refitting the cylinder/piston assembly).
Refill the cooling system (Changing the coolant).
Refit the front sprocket cover (Refitting the front sprocket cover).
Fill the system with engine oil (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Battery
Battery safety rules
Warning
Before carrying out any operations on the battery, keep in mind the safety standards. When under charge,
batteries produce explosive gases. Keep batteries away from heat sources, sparks or open flames.
Instructions for battery use

The battery is a sealed, maintenance-free type and therefore requires no special installation procedure.
Note
Always keep the battery clean. Apply grease around the battery terminals to prevent corrosion.
Warning
Never remove the valve cover located on top of the cover. If the block, cover or terminals are broken or if the
valve cover has been tampered with, IT IS ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY TO REPLACE THE BATTERY.
Important
If the motorcycle is left unused for more than 30 days, remove the battery and store it in a safe, cool place.
Always charge the battery before the first operation and after long storage periods – such as before selling the
vehicle.
Removing the battery
Release metallic fastener (11) and the elastic band (12).
Lift the battery mount assembly without disconnecting the electrical components and fit the battery in its mount. It
is recommended to lubricate the side areas of the battery with water and soap to facilitate the sliding on the
rubber elements.
Refitting the battery
Refit the battery mount assembly in its seat.
Apply grease around the battery terminals to prevent oxidation.
Connect the battery to the motorcycle terminals to the torque of 10 Nm ±10%.
Duly route cables (13), (14) and (15) as shown in the figure.
Fasten the end part of the elastic band (12) and the metallic fastener (11) one after the other.
Remove the battery (Battery).
Warning
Before carrying out any operations on the battery, keep in mind the safety standards (General safety rules). The
electrolyte in the battery is corrosive and can cause burns if it comes into contact with the skin because it contains
sulphuric acid. Wear gloves and, if necessary, protective clothing, a face-mask and goggles when adding
electrolyte. If the fluid comes into contact with the skin, wash thoroughly with fresh water. If it comes into contact
with the eyes, wash thoroughly with water for 15 minutes and consult an ophthalmologist. In the event of
accidental ingestion, drink large quantities of water or milk, and continue with milk of magnesia, a beaten egg or
vegetable oil. Do not allow sparks, flames, cigarettes or any other heat source to get near the battery, as it
produces explosive gases. When recharging or using the battery indoors, make sure that the room is adequately
ventilated. Do not inhale the gases produced during recharging. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.
Warning
Do not dispose of exhausted battery into the environment.
Smaltimento
recommended for waste disposal as indicated by Decision No 2001/118/EC: CER 16 06 01* (Lead batteries).
Note
Place the battery on a flat surface.

Remove the protective film (1).
Warning
Make sure that the electrolyte is of the specific type for your battery.
Remove the container with the electrolyte from the plastic bag.
Remove the cap strip (3) from the container (2).
Important
Keep the cap strip (3) to hand because it will be used later to plug the battery cells.
Warning
Do not peel or perforate the sealed areas.
Place the electrolyte container (2) upside down.

Align the six sealed elements with the six filler holes on the battery.
Push the container (2) downwards with sufficient force to break the seals and allow the fluid to flow out.
Note
Do not tilt the electrolyte container as this could interrupt the flow temporarily or even permanently.
Make sure that air bubbles emerge from all six filler holes. Leave the container in this position for at least twenty
minutes.
If no bubbles emerge from one of the holes, tap gently on the bottom of the respective container.
Important
Never move the container away from the battery. Do not cut or puncture the container.
Make sure that all the electrolyte has flowed out.

Carefully extract the container (2) from the battery.
Fit the cap strip (3) previously removed from the electrolyte container (2) to the battery, and ensure the caps plug
off all filler holes.
3 -12 Ah batteries: leave to stand for at least 30 min.
Over 12 Ah batteries: leave to stand for at least 1 hour.
Set the cap strip on the filler holes without securing it. Recharge the battery as described in the paragraph
"Recharging the battery".
Note
When using an automatic battery charger, ensure that the charger current (ampere) is equal to or higher than the
value of the standard charging system (STD) indicated on the battery itself.
Press firmly downwards with both hands until the caps are firmly in place (do not use a hammer).
Warning
Do not dispose of the electrolyte container into the environment.
Smaltimento
recommended for waste disposal as indicated by Decision No 2001/118/EC: CER 15 01 10* (Packaging containing
residues of or contaminated by dangerous substances).
Note
Battery safety rules
Warning
Before carrying out any operations on the battery, keep in mind the safety standards. When under charge,
batteries produce explosive gases. Keep batteries away from heat sources, sparks or open flames.
Instructions for battery use

The battery is a sealed, maintenance-free type and therefore requires no special installation procedure.
Note
Always keep the battery clean. Apply grease around the battery terminals to prevent corrosion.
Warning
Never remove the valve cover located on top of the cover. If the block, cover or terminals are broken or if the
valve cover has been tampered with, IT IS ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY TO REPLACE THE BATTERY.
Important
If the motorcycle is left unused for more than 30 days, remove the battery and store it in a safe, cool place.
Always charge the battery before the first operation and after long storage periods – such as before selling the
vehicle.
Refer to the label on the battery showing the inspection intervals in order to determine when to test the voltage.
Charge the battery if the open circuit voltage is lower than 12.8 V. Leaving the battery discharged for more than
one month could damage it. Check the battery charge with a voltmeter.
Always check the condition of the battery before recharging and 1 to 2 hours afterwards.
Warning
Pay careful attention to recharging times. Stop charging immediately if the battery becomes too hot to the touch.
Leave to cool before resuming charging.
Use only constant-voltage battery chargers.

Check that battery terminals are properly connected to the battery charger.
To charge the battery, proceed as follows.
Type of charging Volt Ampere (A) Time (Hours)
Normal 12 0.9 5-10
Use fast charging in emergencies only.
Storing the battery

If the battery voltage is less than or equal to 11.5 V, it must be recharged.
Connect the battery charger to the battery.
Use a voltage of 16-17 V.
If the ammeter shows no change, increase the voltage to maximum 25 V.
Charge for 5 minutes.
If the ammeter shows a change, restore a voltage of 16-17 V; otherwise replace the battery.
Checking the battery charging system
Perform checks on the system as indicated in the following paragraphs:

Battery
Generator
Rectifier-regulator
Solenoid starter
The solenoid starter (1) is mounted to the battery mount.
Removing the solenoid starter

Disconnect the battery (Battery).
Remove the protection cover (A).

Undo the screws (2), taking care to collect the spring washers (3).
Remove the starter motor-solenoid starter cable (4) and the solenoid starter-battery cable (5).
Disconnect the solenoid starter connector (6) from the wiring.
If there is no electric continuity, ensure that the terminals are not oxidised and apply water repellent spray.
Checking operation of the solenoid starter

Apply 12 V (battery voltage) across the positive terminal and negative terminal of the connector.
Remove solenoid starter (1) sliding it upwards.
With a multimeter connected between the two poles (threaded pins) of the solenoid starter, check for electric
continuity.
Change the solenoid starter if the malfunction persists.
Ensure that the terminals are not oxidised and apply water repellent spray.
Refitting the solenoid starter

Position the solenoid starter-starter motor cable (4) and the solenoid starter-battery cable (5) on the solenoid
starter terminals.
Start screws (2) with spring washers (3).
Tighten screws (2) to a torque of 4 Nm ± 10%.
Refit the protection cap (A).
Connect the connector (6) of the solenoid starter to the wiring harness and connect the battery (Battery).
Fasten solenoid starter (1) to battery mount by fitting it into tabs (B).
Starter motor
Power: 0.7 kW/12 V.

Direction of rotation:
counter clockwise viewed from power take-off side.
The starter motor is highly compact and reliable, therefore rarely raises any operating issue.
In case of malfunction, ensure that the starter motor wiring terminal is properly tightened under the nut and shows
no sign of oxidation. If the terminal is properly tightened and free from oxidation, remove the starter motor and
test it under no-load conditions (no load applied to the shaft).
Secure the starter motor to a test bench, making sure not to damage the casing.
Use a fully charged 12 V battery for the test.
Use battery-motor connection cables which are no longer than 70 cm and with the same cross-section as the cable
on the motorcycle itself.
Connect the negative terminal of the battery to an unpainted area of the starter motor casing and the positive
terminal to its electrical terminal. The shaft of the starter motor should rotate freely and at a high speed. Take care
not to short-circuit the two cables connected to the battery.
Electric starting system
The key components of the electric starting system are a solenoid (1) and a starter motor (2) fed by the battery.
Replacing the tail light bulbs
The tail light (1) on this motorcycle is a LED light.

In case of malfunctions or breakage, it will be necessary to replace the entire tail light (1)
To work on the tail light, see chapters "Removing the tail light" and "Refitting the tail light".
Tail light
The tail light (1) on this motorcycle is a LED light.

In case of malfunctions or breakage, it will be necessary to replace the entire tail light (1)
To work on the tail light, see chapters "Removing the tail light" and "Refitting the tail light".
Aligning the headlight
The motorcycle must be perfectly upright with tires inflated to the correct pressure and with a rider seated,
perfectly perpendicular to the longitudinal axis.
Position the motorcycle 10 metres from a wall or a screen.
On the wall or surface, draw a horizontal line at the same height from the ground as the centre of the headlight
and a vertical line aligned with the longitudinal axis of the motorcycle.
Note
If possible, perform this check in dim light.
Switch on the low beam. The height of the upper limit between the dark area and the lit area must not be more
than 9/10 of the height from the ground of the headlight centre.
Note
This is the procedure specified by Italian regulations for checking the maximum height of the light beam. Please
adapt said procedure to the provisions in force in your own country.
To horizontally align the headlight beam, turn the adjusting screw (1).
To vertically align the headlight beam, turn the adjusting screw (2).
Replacing the headlight bulbs
Changing the headlight bulbs
Before replacing a burnt out bulb, ensure that the replacement bulb has the same voltage and power rating as
specified for the concerned lighting device (Lights/instrument panel).
Warning
The halogen light bulbs in the headlight become hot when switched on and remain hot for some time after they are
switched off. Allow bulbs to cool before replacing them.
Remove headlight to reach the high and low beam bulbs (Headlight).
Loosen the bulb (1) cover.
Disconnect the connector (2).

Turn the high and low beam bulbs (3) anticlockwise, remove them from their seat and replace the burnt-out bulbs.
Note
Be careful to hold the new bulb at the base only. Never touch the transparent body with your fingers or it will
blacken resulting in reduced bulb brilliancy.
Refit the removed components.
Changing the number plate light bulb

To reach the number plate light bulb (2), open the number plate light lens (1), pull the bulb out of the holder and
replace it.
Headlight
Remove the front plexiglass kit (Hyperstrada version only) (Front plexiglass kit).
Remove the headlight trim (Removing the headlight fairing).
Disconnect the connector (1).
Unscrew the three screws (2) and remove the headlight (3).
Checking the indicators and lights
Changing the rear turn indicator light bulbs

Undo the screw (1) and detach the lens (3) from the turn indicator support.
Remove the bulb (2) by sliding it out. Then fit the new one by pressing and turning clockwise until it clicks into its
seat.
Refit the lens by inserting the tab in the corresponding slot in the turn indicator support.
Tighten the screw (1).
Changing the front turn indicator light bulbs

Loosen the screw (1) from the hand guard (2) and remove the LED turn indicator fastened to the cover (3).
Replacing (LED) front turn indicators

Work in the same way for both front turn indicators.
Disconnect turn indicator connector (A).
Right-hand switch
In case of malfunction, check for faulty parts in the system.

To disassemble and reassemble right-hand switch (1), see chapters "Removing the handlebar" and "Refitting the
handlebar".
CHECKS
Check control unit correct operation with the DDS 2 diagnosis instrument connected to control unit diagnostic
socket (A), which is positioned inside electrical components compartment; to reach it, remove the seat (Removing
the seat).
Left-hand switch
In case of malfunction, check for faulty parts in the system.

To disassemble and reassemble left-hand switch (1), see chapters "Removing the handlebar" and "Refitting the
handlebar".
CHECKS
the seat).
Horn
Supply 12 V (battery) to the two fastons.

continuity.
Change the horn if the malfunction persists.
ELECTRIC DIAGRAM
Checking the fuses
Electric components are protected by eleven fuses located in the two fuse boxes.
In each fuse box (A) and (B) there are three spare fuses.
FUSE BOXES (A) and (B)
The fuse boxes (A) and (B) are located in the electrical components compartment, under the seat (A) and in the
electrical components compartment (B).
Remove seat as described in paragraph "Removing the seat".
To expose the fuses, lift the box protective covers. Mounting position and ampere capacity are marked on box
cover.
Refer to the table below to identify the circuits protected by the various fuses and their ratings.
Fuse box (A)
Fuse box (A) key
Pos El. item Rat.
1 Lights 10 A
2 Instrument panel 10 A
3 Key-1 15 A
4 Key-2 10 A
5 Key-7SM 15 A
6 Injection 20 A
7 - -
8 Spare 10 A
9 Spare 20 A
10 Spare 30 A
Fuses 8, 9, 10 are spare fuses

ELECTRIC DIAGRAM
Fuse box (B)
Fuse box (B) key
Pos El. item Rat.
1 Key-sense 7.5 A
2 Diagnosis 7.5 A
3 Black Box System (BBS) 10 A
4 ABS 1 30 A
5 ABS 2 25 A
6 Alarm 10 A
7 Engine control unit 7.5 A
8 Spare 10 A
9 Spare 20 A
10 Spare 30 A
Fuses 8, 9, 10 are spare fuses
ELECTRIC DIAGRAM
MAIN FUSES
The main fuse (C) is located near the rear fuse box, on solenoid starter.
In order to reach the fuse, it is necessary to remove the seat (Removing the seat).
Remove protection cap (D).
ELECTRIC DIAGRAM
Important
Before replacing a damaged fuse with a new one of the same rating, identify the cause of the problem.
A blown fuse can be identified by breakage of the inner filament (F).
Important
Switch the ignition key to OFF before replacing the fuse to avoid possible short-circuits.
Warning
Never use a fuse with a rating other than the specified value. Failure to observe this rule may damage the electric
system or even cause fire.
Side stand switch
The side stand switch (1) is located on the side stand ball joint and provides the side stand position information to
the control unit.
The detected signal is sent to the control unit, which shares it with the instrument panel through connector (2).
CHECKS
the seat).
Air temperature sensor
The air temperature sensor (1), located on vehicle front part, detects the ambient temperature.
The detected signal is sent to the control unit, that shares it with the instrument panel; this allows performing map
corrections if necessary.
CHECKS
the seat).
After selecting the proper items on the DDS 2 menu, read the external air temperature value among the different
displayed parameters and compare it with the actual value.
Change the sensor if reading is incorrect.
ELECTRIC DIAGRAM
The coolant temperature sensor (1) outputs the electric signal to the engine control unit, which shares it with the
instrument panel through the CAN line.
CHECKS
the seat).
After selecting the proper items on the menu, read the engine coolant temperature value among the different
displayed engine parameters:
- with cold engine, the air temperature detected with the DDS 2 shall be similar to the coolant one;
- with hot engine and cooling fan just triggered, coolant temperature value shall be similar to the one required
for activating the electric fan.
Should the outcomes of these tests be negative, replace the engine coolant temperature sensor (1).
Should the DDS 2 detect an error such as "coolant temperature sensor short circuit or open circuit" inside the
control unit memory, check the electric system parts connecting sensor to control unit.
If this section of the electric system is not faulty (no open circuit, no short circuits, no short circuit to ground),
replace the sensor.
ELECTRIC DIAGRAM
Clutch switch
To check operation of the clutch switch (1), use a multimeter: when the clutch lever is operated, there must be
electric continuity between the terminals of the corresponding switch.
No electric continuity should be available when clutch is released.
If these tests fail to produce positive results, the part in question must be replaced.
ELECTRIC DIAGRAM
Oil pressure sensor
The oil pressure sensor (pressure switch) (1) is located in the front of the oil cooler.
To test the operation of the engine oil pressure sensor (1), proceed as follows.
Use the diagnosis instrument DDS 2 to check that oil pressure in the engine lubrication circuit complies with the
specified values.
If the engine oil pressure value is outside the specified range, check the lubrication circuit components and service
as necessary.
Switch on the instrument panel without starting the engine, disconnect the electrical terminal from the pressure
sensor and connect it to ground:
- if the warning light does not illuminate, this means the sensor is defective and must be replaced;
- if the warning light illuminates, start the engine;
- if the warning light does not turn off, check the DDS 2 system by connecting it to connector (A) located in the
electrical components compartment; to reach it, remove the seat (Removing the seat).
ELECTRIC DIAGRAM
Gear/neutral sensor
The gear sensor (1) is positioned on the vehicle rear RH side.
CHECKS
the seat).
Rear stop switch
The rear STOP switch (1) is located inside the RH footpeg holder plate.
REAR STOP SWITCH CONTROL

To check operation of the rear (1) STOP switch, use a multimeter: when the rear brake lever is operated, there
must be electric continuity between the terminals of the corresponding switch.
No electric continuity should be available when brakes are not operated.
ELECTRIC DIAGRAM
Front stop switch
The front STOP switch (1) is located on the front lever front side.
CHECKS
To check operation of the front (1) STOP switch, use a multimeter: when the front brake lever is operated, there
must be electric continuity between the terminals of the corresponding switch.
No electric continuity should be available when brakes are not operated.
ELECTRIC DIAGRAM
Exhaust valve motor
Remove the exhaust silencer (Removing the silencer).

Release exhaust valve motor cable (4) as described in chapter "Removing the exhaust system".
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
Remove the seat (Removing the seat) and disconnect the exhaust valve connector (1).
Undo screw (2) and remove washer (2).
Remove the exhaust valve motor (4).
ASSEMBLY PROCEDURE
Refit the exhaust valve motor (4) by tightening the screw (3), after having positioned the screw (2).
Reconnect the connector (1).

Refit the exhaust system (Refitting the exhaust system).
Refit the silencer (Refitting the silencer).
CHECKS
socket (A), which is positioned inside electrical components compartment; to reach it, remove the seat.
ELECTRIC DIAGRAM
Solenoid valves
The LH and RH solenoid valves are located on the rear side of the radiator and improve the coolant cooling when
the temperature is high.
The electric fan activation parameters are defined by the water temperature sensors and controlled by the
thermostat.
The operating parameters are indicated in chapter "Cooling system".
REMOVAL/REASSEMBLY
To work on the solenoid valves, move the radiator from the front side as described in chapters "Removing the
radiator" and "Refitting the radiator".
CHECKS
continuity.
Change the solenoid valve if the malfunction persists.
ELECTRIC DIAGRAM
Coils
The ignition coil increases the input voltage of the current alternator and brings the voltage to a value that allows
the spark creation in the spark plug.
The vehicle features two coils, one for the horizontal cylinder (1) and one for the vertical cylinder (2).
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
Work under the water radiator to reach the horizontal cylinder coil (1).
Instead, to reach the vertical cylinder coil (2), it is necessary to:
- remove the seat (Removing the seat);
- remove the fuel tank (Removing the fuel tank).
Disconnect connectors (3).
Disconnect caps as described in paragraph "Replacing the spark plugs".
Loosen the two screws (4).
Remove the coils.
ELECTRIC CHECKS

PIN OUT Function
PIN 1 Control signal to negative
PIN 2 Positive to battery
DIAGNOSIS CHECKS
ELECTRIC DIAGRAM
Vertical cylinder coils

Accelerator Position System (APS)
The Acceleration Position Sensor (APS) (1) or throttle twistgrip sensor, is a potentiometer that generates an
electric input sent to the control unit which receives information on:
- throttle twistgrip position;
- activation dynamics.
To remove the APS, follow the instructions in chapter "Removing the throttle control".
CHECKS
Check control unit correct operation with the DDS2 diagnosis instrument connected to control unit diagnostic
ELECTRIC DIAGRAM
Oxygen sensor
The oxygen sensor detects the presence of unburned fuel in the exhaust gases, processes the information sent to
the control unit and allows keeping the mixture ratio (air kg/fuel kg) within the best efficiency range for the
catalytic converter.
The vehicle is provided with two lambda sensors, one per cylinder:
- oxygen sensor (1) for horizontal cylinder exhaust;

- oxygen sensor (2) for vertical cylinder exhaust.
If necessary, reach the oxygen sensor connectors as described in chapter "Routing of wiring on frame".
CHECKS
the seat).
ELECTRIC DIAGRAM
ABS control unit (1).

The necessary signals for correct operation are:
- Front wheel speed;

- Rear wheel speed.
For removal and refitting please refer to chapters "Removing the ABS control unit" and "Refitting the ABS control unit".
CHECKS
ELECTRIC DIAGRAM
CAN line
This model utilises a CAN line (Controller Area Network) which has made it possible to greatly simplify the layout of
the electrical system and consequently reduce its overall weight.
The CAN line is connected to two nodes: the instrument panel and the engine control unit. Thanks to this
communication line no sensor doubles are required as sensor signals are shared by both electronic units. Sensors
are connected to closer electronic unit (instrument panel or engine control unit), which sends the signals to the
network to be processed by the control units.
CAN line consists of two wires for digital signal transfer; they both carry precise and perfectly decipherable data.
The instrument panel and the engine control unit, which are connected to the CAN line, are fitted with special
hardware which acknowledges whether a pulse sequence includes pertaining data to be processed by the
computing unit.
The traction control is managed by the BBS.

Thanks to the front speed sensor (1) and to the rear speed sensor (2), the control unit can control vehicle traction
according to the speed difference between the two wheels.
CHECKS
To remove and refit the speed sensors, refer to chapters "Replacing the front phonic wheel sensor" and "Replacing the
rear phonic wheel sensor"
ELECTRIC DIAGRAM
The engine rpm sensor (1) is an inductive sensor that detects the teeth of a phonic wheel by means of an alternate
signal proportional to the teeth passage speed.
The toothed pulley usually features "Xn teeth with a gap of two teeth" as reference for the first cylinder TDC.
Position 1: the pick-up sensor detects the "full area" (i.e. the tooth);
Position 2: the pick-up sensor detects the "empty area" (i.e. the gap between the teeth).
Note
Without rpm signal the engine does not start.
CHECKS
Rpm (pick-up) sensor is positioned under coolant expansion reservoir, on engine LH side.
For removal, proceed as described in chapter "Removing the generator cover".
ELECTRIC DIAGRAM
Electronic Throttle Valve (ETV)
The ETV (1) and (2) is the motor that controls throttle valve opening and closing and is located on the throttle
body.
In case of failure it is not possible to replace only the ETV, but it is necessary to replace the complete throttle body.
Once replaced, reset the TPS, using the DDS2.
1 Horizontal potentiometer motor / ride-by-wire (Electronic Throttle Valve)

2 Vertical potentiometer motor / ride-by-wire (Electronic Throttle Valve)
CHECKS
ETV ELECTRIC DIAGRAM

To remove and refit the ETV, refer to chapters "Removing the airbox" and "Refitting the airbox"
Black Box System (BBS)
BBS (1) is an electronic control unit connected to the CAN line.
ELECTRIC DIAGRAM
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
To remove BBS (1), remove the seat "Removing the seat" and, after having disconnected connector (2), slide BBS
(1) out of bracket (3) from subframe.
To remove BBS control unit (1), remove the seat (Removing the seat).
Slide out the snap ring (2).
Loosen the two screws (3) and remove the bracket (4).
Disconnect connector (5) and slide Black Box control unit (1) out.
REFITTING PROCEDURE
Refitting is the reverse of removal.
CHECKS
Map sensor
The Map sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure) measures the air pressure to calculate the exact quantity of fuel to be
injected.
The control unit processes the intake air pressure value and the external temperature value to calculate the
quantity of intake air in the cylinders and, based on the preset stoichiometric ratio, determines the correct quantity
of fuel to be delivered to the injectors.
The air/fuel ratio is therefore always excellent.
1 Horizontal MAP sensor

2 Vertical MAP sensor
CHECKS
ELECTRIC DIAGRAM
REMOVAL/REASSEMBLY
To remove and refit the MAP sensor, refer to chapters "Removing the airbox" and "Refitting the airbox".
Engine control unit (ECU)
The engine control unit (1) is an electronic digital microprocessor-based unit.
Important
The maps, which include spark advance values, injection times, crankshaft angle for injector closing and all
correction curves as a function of temperature and atmospheric pressure values, are stored in the Flash Eprom of
the ECU. The above values are preset by the Manufacturer after testing the motorcycle under different riding
conditions. These settings cannot be changed.
ELECTRIC DIAGRAM
ECU 1 connector (Frame Connector) (B)
ECU 2 connector (Engine Connector) (C)

To remove and refit the ECU, disconnect connectors (C) and (D) and slide it out from the rear side.
VIN code
The VIN code is an alphanumerical code with 17 characters that clearly identifies a vehicle (family, model, country,
serial number, …). This code can be stored in the instrument panel and read through the DDS2 with suitable
KWP2000 inputs.
When replacing a control unit, this information must always be copied onto the new control unit, using
DDS2.
Restoring motorcycle operation via the PIN CODE
This function allows starting the vehicle "temporarily" in case of an engine failed operation due to a "malfunction"
of the immobilizer system.
If upon Key-On there is an ERROR concerning the Immobilizer, the DSB automatically activates the function to
enter the PIN code.
Entering the code:

- each time you press button (2), the displayed number increases from "0" to "9" and then returns to "0";
- to confirm the number, press button (4);
- repeat the procedure until entering the fourth digit;
- press button (4) again to confirm.
If the code is incorrect, the instrument panel will show "PIN WRONG" flashing for 2 seconds and returns to the
initial indication in order to enter the code again.
Instead, if the code is correct, the instrument panel shows "PIN CORRECT" flashing for 2 seconds and the padlock
key logo shows it unlocked for 2 seconds.
After 2 seconds, the instrument panel will return to the "normal" view (with all indications active).
From this moment, the vehicle can be started using Start button (5).
Note
There is no limit to the number of times the code can be re-entered but this opportunity ends after 120 seconds.
After 120 seconds, the DSB inhibits PIN insertion, showing "TIME OUT" for 2 seconds and then going to the "main
screen", indicating the expected errors and preventing to turn the motorcycle ON.
Note
The vehicle can be started until a Key-Off is performed; if the problem still persists upon the next starting attempt,
repeat PIN entering procedure from the beginning in order to start the motorcycle.
Note
All instrument panel functions can be displayed and downloaded in the .pdf file from the download area.
Error warnings
Note
The described procedures apply to all vehicle versions, regardless of the standard setting
This function allows detecting any vehicle abnormal behaviour.

Instrument panel activates, in real time, any vehicle abnormal behaviour (ERRORS). When one or several errors
are triggered, the instrument panel always turns on the relevant warning light: EOBD light (A) in case of ECU
errors, or the Generic Error light (B) in case of any other errors.
If one or more "errors" occur during the operation, the "ERRORS" page will be activated within the Setting menu.
To display the list of errors, enter the Setting menu and access the "ERRORS" page that will be active only if at
least one error is present.
If more errors are present, the "NEXT" and "PREVIEW" indications will be activated automatically to allow changing
page.
To change page, use buttons (1) and (2) to select "NEXT" and "PREVIEW" and press button (4).
It is possible to quit at any time and go back to the Setting menu by pressing button (4) with the "EXIT" item
highlighted.
Note
LCD - Main functions
Note
Operate on instrument panel only when the motorcycle is stopped.

Do not operate on instrument panel while you are riding the motorcycle under no circumstances.
Data displayed on the main screen are as follows:
1) Engine rpm indicator;
2) Vehicle speed indicator;
3) Engaged gear indicator;
4) MENU 1 (Odometer, Trip 1, Trip 2, Trip Fuel, Average Consumption, Instant Fuel Consumption, Average Speed
and Trip Time) – UP-MAP and Riding Mode Set-Up menus;
5) MENU 2 (Engine Coolant Temperature, Ambient Air Temperature and Clock);
6) Name of set Riding Mode;
7) DTC and ABS settings of the Riding Mode.
Important
Do not ride the motorcycle if temperature reaches the max. value as engine could suffer severe damage.
Note
Instrument panel
1) LCD Dot-Matrix.
2) REV COUNTER (rpm).
It indicates engine rpm value.
3) NEUTRAL LIGHT N (GREEN).
Comes on when in neutral position.
4) HIGH BEAM LIGHT (BLUE).
Comes on when high beams are on.
5) ENGINE OIL PRESSURE LIGHT (RED).
Comes on when engine oil pressure is too low. It must turn on at "Key-On", but must turn OFF a few seconds after
the engine has started. It may shortly come on when the engine is hot, however, it should go out as the engine
revs up.
Important
If the ENGINE OIL light stays ON, stop the engine or it may suffer severe damage.
6) FUEL WARNING LIGHT (AMBER YELLOW).

Comes on when fuel is low and there are about 4 litres of fuel left in the tank.
7) TURN INDICATOR LIGHTS (GREEN).
The light of the turn indicator in operation illuminates and flashes. They turn on and blink when the Hazard function
(4 turn indicators on) is active.
8) "ENGINE/VEHICLE DIAGNOSIS - EOBD" LIGHT (AMBER YELLOW).
It turns on in the case of "engine" and/or "vehicle" errors and in some cases will lock the engine.
9) "OVER REV" LIMITER / "DTC" TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT (RED).

Over rev light
No rev limitation Off
1st threshold - no. RPM before the limiter threshold (*) On - STEADY
Limiter (Overrev) kicks in (*) On - Flashing
(*) each calibration of the engine control unit, depending on model, may have a different setting for the thresholds
before the rev limiter kicks in and the rev limiter threshold.

DTC intervention light
No intervention Off
Spark advance cut On - Steady
Injection cut On - Steady
Note
Should both lights for Over rev Function activation and DTC intervention come on, instrument panel will give
priority to Over rev Function.
10) ABS LIGHT (AMBER YELLOW).

Engine OFF or Engine ON with speed below or equal to 5km/h

Light OFF Light flashing Light steady on
- ABS enabled, but not ABS disabled with the menu function (**)
functioning yet

Engine on with speed above 5 km/h

ABS enabled and ABS disabled but not ABS disabled with the menu function (**) or ABS enabled, but
functioning functioning due to a problem still not functioning due to a problem
(**) the ABS can be considered as really disabled only when light continues flashing even after engine starting.
11) GENERIC ERROR WARNING LIGHT (AMBER YELLOW).

It turns on when there are any "vehicle" errors, i.e. active errors triggered by any control unit other than the
engine control unit.
12) DTC STATUS LIGHT (AMBER YELLOW).

This light indicates DTC system enabling/disabling status.

Speed below or equal to 5 Km/h

DTC enabled DTC enabled but not yet functioning since initialisation is DTC disabled and/or not functioning
and in progress or functioning with degraded performance due to a fault in the BBS control unit
functioning

Speed above or equal to 5 Km/h

DTC enabled DTC enabled but not yet functioning since initialisation is DTC disabled and/or not functioning
and in progress or functioning with degraded performance due to a fault in the BBS control unit
functioning
Attention
Software update and maintenance
SW update
The DSB software can be updated through the DUCATI diagnosis instrument, which uses a suitable dedicated
KWP2000 communication protocol.
Activations through diagnosis instrument

The DUCATI diagnosis instrument allows performing a series of activations to check some instrument panel
functions and resetting parameters or warning lights. After each activation, the instrument panel will restore its
standard functions.
Attention
The activations must be performed only with key turned to ON, engine off and battery voltage ≥11.0V.
"Oil Service" reset

The "Oil service" reset allows disabling the relevant icon displayed on the instrument panel.
After the reset, the indication remains off until reaching the following mileage set for this service.
"Desmo Service" reset

The "Desmo service" reset allows disabling the relevant icon displayed on the instrument panel.
After the reset, the indication remains off until reaching the following mileage set for this service.
Speed indication activation

This activation allows checking for instrument panel malfunctions or display problems of the speed indication.
Upon receiving this input the instrument panel shows for 5s the following values in sequence:
- 50 km/h;
- 100 km/h;
- 299 km/h.
Engine rpm indication activation

This activation allows checking for instrument panel malfunctions or display problems of the rpm indication.
Upon receiving this input the instrument panel shows for 5s the following values in sequence:
-1000 rpm;
- 5000 rpm;
- 11000 rpm.
Warning light activation check

This activation allows checking for Instrument Panel malfunctions or activation problems of the warning lights.
Upon receiving the input, the Instrument Panel turns on all warning lights for 10 seconds.
PIN CODE reset

This activation allows "erasing" the previously stored PIN CODE to enter a new one.
Displayed errors description
Hereinafter is the table of the possible displayed errors:
CAN LINE CAN line "BUS Off" (communication line of the several control units)
UNKNOWN DEVICE Control unit not acknowledged by the system - wrong SW
ABS ABS control unit faulty communication / operation
BBS BBS control unit faulty communication / operation
BBS control unit general malfunction
Exhaust valve motor EXVL malfunction
DASHBOARD DSB control unit faulty communication / operation
IMMOBILIZER Key missing
Key not recognised
Antenna not working
ENGINE ECU control unit faulty communication / operation
General malfunction of the ECU control unit
Throttle position sensor malfunction
Throttle motor and/or relay malfunction
Pressure sensor malfunction
Engine coolant temperature sensor malfunction
Intake duct air temperature sensor malfunction
Injection relay malfunction
Ignition coil malfunction
Injector malfunction
Engine rpm sensor malfunction
Lambda sensor or Lambda sensor heater malfunction
Motorcycle starting relay malfunction
Secondary air sensor malfunction
FUEL SENSOR Reserve NTC sensor malfunction
SPEED SENSOR Front and/or rear speed sensor malfunction
BATTERY Battery voltage too high or too low
STOP LIGHT Stop light not working
FAN Electric cooling fan malfunction

T_AIR SENSOR Ambient air temperature sensor malfunction
H.GRIPS Malfunction in one or more heated handgrips

Parameter settings/displaying
Note
Upon switching on, the instrument panel activates the rev counter that increases from 0 to 11000 and decreases
up to 0; the Dot-Matrix shows the moving indication "DUCATI HYPERMOTARD" (or "DUCATI HYPERMOTARD SP")
(or "DUCATI HYPERSTRADA); warning lights turn on one after the other starting from the external side to the
internal side. After the check, the "main" information displayed on the instrument panel are Odometer (TOT),
engine coolant temperature and "Riding Mode".
After the initial check the instrument panel always shows the "main" screen providing the information below:
- MENU 1 (3): TOT - Odometer;
- MENU 2 (4): engine coolant temperature;
- SET-UP;
- Set "Riding Mode" (5) indication;
- Engine rpm indication (7) (RPM);
- Vehicle speed indication (8);
- "SERVICE" indication (only if active);
- Engaged gear indication (9).
With button (2) it is possible to scroll MENU 1 and reach the following functions:
- TRIP 1;
- Trip meter 1;
- TRIP 2;
- Trip meter 2;
- TRIP FUEL;
- Partial fuel reserve counter (only if active);
- CONS. AVG;
- Average consumption;
- CONS. ;
- Instant fuel consumption;
- SPEED AVG;
- Average speed;
- TRIP TIME;
- Trip time.
With button (1) it is possible to scroll MENU 2 and reach the following Functions:
- AIR;
- Air temperature;
- Clock.
Note
Odometer Update
This function allows copying the km value saved in the odometer when replacing the instrument panel or the Black
Box (BBS) control unit.
When replacing the instrument panel or the Black Box (BBS) control unit, it is NECESSARY to copy the km value to
the new control unit using the DDS2 Diagnosis Instrument.
Until this procedure is performed, the instrument panel display will show some flashing dashes " -----" instead of
the Odometer value.
The procedure is successfully completed when the display shows the odometer value.
Note
Function buttons
1) CONTROL BUTTON
Button used to display and set instrument panel parameters with the position "UP".
2) CONTROL BUTTON
Button used to display and set instrument panel parameters with the position "DOWN".
3) HIGH-BEAM FLASH BUTTON (FLASH)
The high-beam flash button may also be used for LAP functions.
4) TURN INDICATORS CANCEL BUTTON
The turn indicators on/off button may also be used for navigating through the MENU and for activating the "Riding
Mode".
Press this button for 3 seconds to the left to activate the Hazard lights.
5) MOTORCYCLE STARTING/HEATED HANDGRIP ACTIVATION AND ADJUSTMENT BUTTON (Hyperstrada version

only).
6) ENGINE STOP/KEY-ON/KEY OFF
Note
Refitting the front wheel
When all the necessary inspections have been completed, refit the wheel as follows.
Lubricate and fit the spacers (7) and (8) to the sealing rings on the sides of the wheel hub.
Fit the complete wheel between the fork legs.

Lubricate the shank and thread of the wheel shaft (6).
Take pin (6) fully home into the wheel hub.
Fit the washer (3) on the end of the wheel shaft.
Grease thread and underhead of the locking nut (3) and then screw it on.
Tighten nut (4) to a torque of 63Nm±5%.
Apply grease to the threads and underside of the screws (2).

Tighten the two screws (2) securing brake callipers (1).
Operate the front brake lever two or three times.
Hold the lever pulled towards the handgrip and simultaneously tighten the screws (2) to a torque of 45Nm±5%.
Before tightening the screws (5), lower the bike to the ground and push up and down on the handlebar to load the
suspension; so the fork legs will become properly seated onto the wheel shaft.
Hypermotard, Hyperstrada
Tighten screws (5) to a torque of 10Nm±5% following a 1-2-1 sequence, after having applied the indicated
product.
SP Hypermotard
Tighten screws (5) to a torque of 19Nm±5% following a 1-2-1 sequence, after having applied the indicated
product.
Overhauling the front wheel
Wheel bearings
Before checking the dimensions, check for wear on wheel hub bearings. Check for wear by hand after cleaning and
degreasing the bearings in their seats.
Turn the inner ring.
Check the amount of radial and axial play. Excessive play will cause vibration and make the bike unstable and
these parts will have to be replaced.
To remove the bearings (10) and the sealing rings (11) from the wheel hub follow the instructions below.
Position a drift (A) against the inner ring of the bearing (10).
Tap with a hammer until removing the bearing (10).
Apply the drift at different points to facilitate the removal.
Important
Once removed, the used bearings and sealing rings must not be refitted.
Before fitting new bearings, check that the seat is clean and free from scoring and damage.
Grease the bearing seat and then push the new bearing into its seat.
Using a tubular drift (B) that only bears on the outer ring of the bearing (10) to drive the latter fully into its seat.
Use the same method to install the sealing rings (11).

Ensure that spacer (12) is fitted between the two wheel hub bearings.
Note
Wheels must be rebalanced after repair, maintenance and overhaul operations.
Inspecting the wheel shaft
Check the wheel shaft for straightness.

Turn the shaft on a reference surface and measure maximum distortion using a feeler gauge.
Overhauling the wheel rim
After you have checked the bearings, check the rim as follows.
Visually inspect the rim for cracks, scoring and deformation: change the rim if damaged.
Insert the shaft in the wheel and position it on two fixed reference blocks.
Using a dial gauge, measure rim runout and out-of-round with respect to the shaft axis.
If the values measured are not within the tolerance limits, replace the wheel (Front wheel).
Removing the front wheel
Warning
Support the bike so that the wheel to be removed is raised from the ground.
Working on both sides, remove front brake callipers (1) by loosening the two screws (2) securing the calliper to the
fork leg without disconnecting them from the hoses.
Warning
Do not operate the brake lever when the callipers are removed. This can cause the brake pad pistons to come out.
Loosen and remove nut (4) on wheel shaft left side.

Collect washer (3).
Working on both sides, loosen screws (5) securing pin on fork legs.
Hypermotard, Hyperstrada
SP Hypermotard
Working from the left-hand side, use a plastic mallet to drive the wheel shaft (6) out from the opposite side and
remove it.
Remove the wheel and collect spacers (7) and (8).
Working on both sides, remove the sealing ring (9).
Refitting the rear wheel
Warning
Lubricate the wheel shaft threaded end with recommended grease.

Fit wheel on the shaft, matching holes (A) with shafts (B).
Fit the spacer (4) with the tapered side facing the wheel, and washer (3); apply the recommended grease to the
nut (2) and start nut (2) by hand.
After having applied the indicated product, tighten the nut (1) to a torque of 176±5%, checking that the hole on
the nut is aligned with one of those on the wheel shaft.
Fit the clip (1), fitting the end into one of the holes in the shaft, orienting it as shown in the figure.
Refit the silencer (Refitting the silencer).
Overhauling the rear wheel
Check wheel rim conditions.

As the wheel rim has no bearings, it should be supported using the service tool (A) part no. 88713.1073.
Overhauling the wheel rim

Inspect the wheel rim as follows.
Visually inspect the rim for cracks, scoring and deformation: change the rim if damaged.
Install the rim on service shaft part no. 88713.1073 using the original retaining elements.
Using a dial gauge, duly supported, measure rim runout and out-of-round relative to the shaft axis.
If the values measured are not within the tolerance limits, replace the rim (Rear wheel).
Removing the rear wheel
Warning
Remove the silencer (Removing the silencer).
Place the motorcycle on the rear service stand and engage the 1st gear.
Remove the circlip (1).
Using a suitable socket, loosen the wheel nut (2).
Fully unscrew the nut (2) and then slide out washer (3) and spacer (4).
Remove the rear wheel from the motorcycle.
Refitting the front brake system
Upon the system refitting, pay attention to the orientation of the hose unions on the master cylinder and on the
callipers.
Warning
If incorrectly positioned, hoses can affect brake operation and foul moving parts. Position the component as shown
in the figure.
Hose positioning
Refit the front brake master cylinder ("Refitting the front brake master cylinder" - Hypermotard, Hyperstrada) ("Refitting
the front brake master cylinder" - Hypermotard SP).
After having aimed the hose unions on the front brake callipers, position the washers (2) and tighten special
screws (10) and (11) to a torque of 23Nm±10%.
Fit the left brake calliper (9) over the disc.
Apply the specified product to screws (8).
Start screws (8) to secure the callipers to the fork legs.
Operate the brake lever two or three times to pressurise the circuit so that the brake pads are brought into contact
with the brake disc.
Perform the same operation to fit the right brake calliper.
Hold the lever pulled towards the handgrip and simultaneously tighten the calliper screws (8) to a torque of 45 Nm
± 5%.
Reposition brake line (B) in hose grommet (C).
Connect the brake line to the speed sensor cable by using the special clips.
Secure the brake line (6) to the steering lower plate by means of bracket (7).
Tighten screw (5) to the specified torque of 10 Nm ± 10%.
Check angles of brake hoses, as described above.
If the system has been emptied, fill in the braking system fluid, as described in chapters "Changing the fluid in the
front brake system" (Hypermotard, Hyperstrada), "Changing the fluid in the front brake system" and then perform the
"Bleeding of the ABS hydraulic system".
Refitting the brake discs
Before refitting the brake disc to the wheel, clean all contact surfaces thoroughly and apply a medium strength
threadlocker on the threads of retaining screws (1).
Fit the phonic wheel (3) working on the LH side.
Apply the indicated product and tighten the screws (1) retaining the brake disc (2) to the wheel following this
sequence: 1-3-5-2-4.
Tighten screws (1) to a torque of 30Nm ± 5%.
Refit the wheel on the motorcycle (Refitting the front wheel).

Overhauling the front brake components
Important
The brake callipers manufacturer advises against servicing the brake callipers due to the safety critical nature of
this component. Incorrect overhaul of this component could endanger rider safety.
Operations should be limited to replacement of the pads, fasteners and the bleed valve assembly.
The brake disc must be clean, without any signs of rust, oil, grease or dirt and no deep scoring.
To check the brake discs for wear follow the data detailed in chapter "Technical data".
Removing the brake discs
Warning
The front brake discs consist of an inner carrier, which is mounted to the wheel, and an outer rotor. Both parts
must be replaced together as a pair.
Remove the front wheel (Removing the front wheel).
Undo the screws (1) securing the brake disc to the wheel, remove disc (2) and the phonic wheel (3) from the LH
side.
Removing the front brake system
Warning
Drain the front braking system (Changing the front brake system fluid - Hypermotard, Hyperstrada) (Changing the front
brake system fluid - Hypermotard SP).
Remove the rear-view mirrors (Removing the rear-view mirrors).
Remove the front brake master cylinder (Removing the front brake master cylinder - Hypermotard, Hyperstrada)
(Removing the front brake master cylinder - Hypermotard SP).
For the front ABS brake system, please also refer to Sections "ABS system operation information" and chapters
"System components" and "ABS component maintenance".
Undo the screw (5) and slide out the front brake line (6) from the bracket (7) on the bottom yoke.
Remove the brake line from phonic wheel sensor cable by removing the closing clips.
Remove brake line (B) from hose grommet (C) on the mudguard.
Loosen the two retaining screws (8) securing the left front brake calliper (9) to the fork leg.
Repeat the operation for the right brake calliper.
Undo the special screws (10) and (11) from both callipers and collect the interposed seals (2).
Release the brake callipers from the hoses.
Warning
For all maintenance operations see chapter "Maintenance operations".

Refitting the front brake master cylinder
Insert the front brake master cylinder unit (3) on the right side of the handlebar so as the clamp internal edge
matches with the mark (A).
Position clamp (6) on the handlebar and start the screws (5).
Tighten the fastening screws (5) to the specified torque of 10 Nm ± 10% following the sequence 1-2-1 starting
from the upper screw.
Position the hose (4) and sealing washers (2) on the master cylinder unit (3) and secure with the special screw (1),
without tightening.
Warning
An incorrectly positioned hose can cause system faults and interfere with moving parts.
Aim hose (4) as shown in the figure and then tighten the special screw (1) to a torque of 23 Nm ± 10%.
Refit the right hand guard (Refitting the hand guards).

Refit the rear-view mirrors (Refitting the rear-view mirrors).
Fill the front braking system (Changing the front brake system fluid).
Removing the front brake master cylinder
Warning
The brake master cylinder manufacturer advises against servicing the brake master cylinder due to the safety
critical nature of this component. Incorrect overhaul can endanger rider and passenger safety. Maintenance
operations on these units are limited to replacement of the following parts: control lever, fluid reservoir assembly
and relative fasteners and master cylinder fasteners.
Drain the front braking system (Changing the front brake system fluid).
Remove the right hand guard (Removing the hand guards).
Undo the special screw (1), collecting the sealing washers (2) to release the front brake master cylinder unit (3)
from hose (4).
Undo the screws (5) securing the clamp (6), and then remove the front brake master cylinder assembly (3) from
the handlebar.
Refitting the rear brake calliper
If the brake lines (2) are replaced or if one of the rear brake system components has been removed, make sure
that the hose unions on the master cylinder and the calliper are correctly positioned.
Warning
If incorrectly positioned, hoses can affect brake operation and foul moving parts. Position the component as shown
in the figure.
Remember to fit the copper gaskets (3) to the hose end union when reconnecting the brake line to the brake
calliper (5).
After having aimed the hose union, tighten special screw (1) to a torque of 23Nm±10%.
If the speed sensor (6) is removed, fit it to the calliper holder plate (A) with the spacer (8), and tighten the screw
(7) to a torque of 10Nm±10%.
Note
The gap between sensor and the brake disc retaining screw must be within 0.6 and 2.2 mm.
Insert the rear brake calliper (5) on the brake disc, aligning it with the holes of the calliper mounting bracket.
Apply the specified product on screws (4) and tighten them to a torque of 25Nm±5%.
After having refit the rear brake calliper, fill in the rear brake system fluid (Changing the fluid in the rear brake system)
and bleed the ABS system (Bleeding of the ABS hydraulic system).
Removing the rear brake disc
Remove the rear eccentric hub (Removing the rear wheel eccentric hub and the rear wheel shaft).
Undo and remove the four screws (1) securing the brake disc to the wheel shaft, and remove the rear brake disc
(2).
Loosen the screws (3), and remove the rear phonic wheel (4).
The brake disc must be perfectly clean, with no rust, oil, grease or other dirt and no deep scoring.
To check the wear limit of the brake disc, refer to chapter "Technical data".
Position rear brake disc (5) on rear wheel shaft (P), aiming it with chamfered sides (A) facing upwards.
Fasten the disc by starting screws (1) after applying recommended threadlocker.
Note
Pay attention to align screw heads to the corresponding seats on brake disc.
Tighten the screws (1) to 27Nm±10%, following a 1-2-3-4 sequence.

Position the phonic wheel (4) on brake disc (5), aiming it as shown in the figure.
Fasten phonic wheel (4) starting screws (3) after applying recommended threadlocker.
Tighten the screws (3) to a torque of 5Nm±10%, in a cross pattern.
Remove the rear eccentric hub as described in Section "Removing the rear wheel eccentric hub and the rear wheel shaft".
Check the tightening procedure, as described in chapter "Checking the tightening of the rear brake disc screws and of the
phonic wheel (with rear wheel shaft removal)".
Removing the rear brake calliper
Warning
Drain the rear braking system (Changing the rear brake system fluid).
Undo and remove the special screw (1) securing the hose (2) to the rear brake calliper and the corresponding seals
(3).
Remove the hose (2).
Undo the two fastening screws (4) securing the rear brake calliper (5) to the calliper holder bracket, and remove
the brake calliper (5).
If it is necessary to remove the calliper holder plate (A), refer to Section "Removing the rear wheel eccentric hub and the
rear wheel shaft".
To replace the brake pads follow instructions in the paragraph "Checking brake pad wear and replacing rear brake pads".
Refitting the rear brake control
If previously removed, apply recommended threadlocker to screw (17), fit the control rod of the brake master
cylinder (18) using spacer (19) by tightening screw (17) to the torque of 10Nm±10%.
Check that the value for the adjusting screw (20) and nut (21) is the indicated one.
Apply special grease on the inner surface of the bush (10) and threadlocker on the shaft (6). Install O-ring (11)
onto shaft (6).
Insert shaft (6) on brake control lever (7), fit the other O-ring (11) and washer (9).
Reconnect the hose (14), locating the seals (15) on both sides of the hose end union, and secure it with the special
screw (12) and securing hose (16) with hose clip (13).
Tighten special screw (12) to a torque of 23Nm±10%.
Note
Pay particular attention to the hose routing and hose coupling on the rear brake master cylinder
Apply the recommended threadlocker on shaft (6).
Fit brake lever (7) with spring (8) starting shaft (6).
Position the end (A) of the spring (8) as shown in the figure.
Tighten shaft (6) to a torque of 23Nm±10%.
Apply the recommended threadlocker on the screws (2).

Position the rear brake master cylinder (3) on the vehicle inserting the retaining screws (2).
Insert the rod (4) inside the master cylinder (3), after applying the recommended grease.
Tighten the screws (2) to a torque of 10Nm ± 10%.
Connect rear stop switch (1) to main wiring.
Fill the rear braking system (Changing the rear brake system fluid).
Disassembling the rear brake control
The brake master cylinder is supplied only as a complete unit; internal components cannot be replaced.
To disassemble the master cylinder's outer parts, follow the indications given in the exploded view at the beginning
of this Section.
If the bush (10) inside the brake pedal (6) needs to be replaced, grease the external surface and fit the new bush
using a press to insert it. The bush must be placed at 2 mm from the pedal external face.
To disassemble the various parts of the system, refer to the exploded view at the beginning of this chapter.
After performing an operation on the rear brake control, check the brake pedal position following the instructions
detailed in Section "Adjusting the position of the gear pedal and rear brake pedal".
Removing the rear brake control
Warning
Drain the rear braking system (Changing the rear brake system fluid).
Disconnect rear stop switch (1) from main wiring.
Loosen rear brake master cylinder retaining screws (2). Slide out rear brake master cylinder (3) from the adjusting
rod (4), collect bracket (5) securing rear stop (1).
Undo pin (6) securing the brake lever (7), collecting spring (8).
Slide out the brake lever (7) and collect pin (6), washer (9), bushing (10) and O-ring (11).
Undo the special screw (12) from master cylinder (3) by removing the hose clip (13); slide out hose (14),
collecting the seals (15).
Remove rear brake master cylinder (3) from vehicle.
ABS (Antilock Braking System) intervention can be customised and possibly disabled on the instrument panel.
Warning
If the vehicle front wheel remains off the ground for a prolonged period while the vehicle is moving, the speed
difference detected between the two wheels causes an ABS fault (warning light activated) and makes it impossible
for the control unit to establish a reference speed.
ABS system operation information
The operation of the system is based on the analysis of the speed signals for front and rear wheels; the system is
automatically deactivated if even only one of these signals is missing.
Note
In the event of the ABS control unit detecting a fault in the ABS electronic management system, it activates the
specific fault warning indicator on the instrument panel and restores conventional braking functionality without
ABS.
Hydraulic faults in the brake system and faults not directly related to the ABS system (e.g.: worn brake pads)
cannot be detected by the ABS control unit.
Important
The operation of the system is based on the values read for the front and rear wheel speeds; take great care not to
damage the phonic wheels and relative speed sensors when removing the wheels or when working close to these
components; the phonic wheels damage may compromise the operation of the system and cause dangerous
malfunctions.
ABS diagnosis
The ABS control unit diagnosis will check the system main component operation by analysing the system software
and hardware.
In the DDS2.0 diagnosis software, select HYPERMOTARD family, then model HYM939, and then select "Model Year
16" or higher. The Global Scan functions will be automatically started by the diagnosis software; connect the
instrument to the CAN diagnosis socket on the bike and perform a key-on.
The diagnosis instrument communicates with the different control units present on the bike, ABS control unit
included; wait for the scan to be completed.
Among the displayed information a "dot" is shown next to every control unit and it is colour-coded to indicate the
presence or absence of validated errors.
In particular, if errors are stored (errors no longer present at time of scan), the "dot" will be yellow or if errors are
currently present, the "dot" will be red, while if no errors are present, the "dot" will be green. The "dot" will be
grey if the control unit is not detected by the diagnosis instrument (i.e. the control unit does not respond to
requests made according to the diagnosis protocol).
To make a deeper analysis of the ABS control unit, select the line corresponding to ABS control unit and then SELF-
DIAGNOSIS button on the menu on the side or, as an alternative, make a double selection on the same line with
your mouse.
Once in this configuration, a number of parameters and statuses of the ABS control unit and information
concerning the control unit itself may be selected and displayed.
The INFO ECU menu allows reading the software version loaded on the control unit as well as other information.
Select the function "View parameters" and "View status"

This function allows the diagnosis instrument to display the following ABS system parameters and statuses:
Viewable parameters
Front calliper pressure The pressure value in the front brake circuit is displayed in (bar)
Front wheel speed sensor The medium period between impulses coming from the front wheel speed sensor is
impulse time displayed in micro-seconds (µs)
Rear wheel speed sensor The medium period between impulses coming from the rear wheel speed sensor is
impulse time displayed in micro-seconds (µs)
System voltage measured The system voltage value, measured across the terminals of the ABS control unit, is
in ABS unit displayed in Volts (V)
Viewable states
Hydraulic pump motor Indicates if the electric motor of the hydraulic pump inside the ABS unit is functioning
state or not
Safety valve relay status Displays the status of the main valve relay inside the ABS control unit
ABS light The status of ABS warning light present on the motorcycle instrument panel is
displayed
Select the function "View errors"
This diagnosis instrument function provides the user with information concerning the error list in the ABS control
unit memory, indicating if errors are stored or current. The following codes are given after a short description of
the diagnosis type: MEM, indicating that the error has been stored previously by the ABS control unit but has not
been detected in the current test session. ATT, indicating that the error is current and has been detected during
the current test session.
Note
While ATT indicates that the error has been found during the current test session, it does not necessarily indicate
that the error is actually active at the time of indication. For example: disconnecting the front wheel speed sensor
causes the code ATT to be displayed after the error description, but the code continues to be displayed even once
the cause of its activation has been eliminated by reconnecting the sensor, as the ABS will only check sensor
operation again after the next key-off/key-on cycle. As a result, always perform a key-on/key-off cycle after any
work on the ABS system, interrupting and re-establishing communication between the diagnostic instrument and
the ABS control unit before checking the updated ABS error list again.
The abbreviations for all the errors displayed are given as follows:
Error Errors Description

code

C0032 Front Speed Sensor Error
Front speed sensor signal
Open circuit/short circuit to GND/short circuit to Uz of front
wheel speed sensor
C0031 Front speed sensor signal - Plausibility Front speed sensor fault - Plausibility
C003E Rear Speed Sensor Error Rear speed sensor signal

Open circuit/short circuit to GND/short circuit to Uz of rear
wheel speed sensor
C003D Rear speed sensor signal - Plausibility Rear speed sensor fault - Plausibility
C1000 Plausibility of difference between front and Front and rear wheel speed difference (WSS_GENERIC)
rear wheel speeds
C1001 Valve relay fault Valve relay fault (Failsafe relay)
C1002 Front inlet valve fault Front inlet valve (1) fault
C1003 Front outlet valve fault Front outlet valve (2) fault
C1004 Rear inlet valve fault Rear inlet valve (1) fault
C1005 Rear outlet valve fault Rear outlet valve (2) fault
C1006 ABS pressure sensor fault Hardware fault
C1007 ABS pressure sensor fault Offset fault
C1008 ABS pressure sensor fault Power supply fault
C0020 ABS general malfunction ABS pump motor fault
C100A ABS general malfunction ABS unit power circuit fault

C100B ABS general malfunction ABS electronic control unit fault
U0121 ABS control unit communication error No Frame – Frame Counter
U0315 ABS control unit Compatibility Error ABS control unit not compatible
Select the function "ABS system information"
This diagnosis instrument function informs the user about:

ABS software compatibility
Expected ABS software compatibility

ABS (Antilock Braking System) intervention can be customised and possibly disabled.
To set and disable ABS, refer to "Settings and displaying".
Warning
If the vehicle front wheel remains off the ground for a prolonged period while the vehicle is moving, the speed
difference detected between the two wheels causes an ABS fault (warning light activated) and makes it impossible
for the control unit to establish a reference speed.
Operating principle
The Ducati ABS brake system manages the front and rear brake systems separately. The operating mechanism
consists of a pulse generator (phonic wheel), with a ring of slots, fitted onto each wheel. There are HALL sensors
on LH fork leg bottom end and on rear brake calliper holder plate. With vehicle running, they read the slots on the
phonic wheel thereby detecting instant wheel speed. These sensors output data to ABS control unit, which contains
software with a special control algorithm developed by Ducati. The software compares the vehicle average speed
with the instant wheel speed reading and assesses any slipping condition. If control values are exceeded when the
rider commands a certain pressure on brake calliper, the control unit shall hydraulically control the braking system,
which is nearly locked up. The system can modulate pressure at the calliper through a set of solenoid valves which
first prevent any further increase of hydraulic pressure (1 valve closing), and then make the pressure decrease (2
valve opening). The 2 valve is opened in a series of pulses (with less than 10 milliseconds between successive
pulses), to reduce pressure in steps. When the wheel begins to turn again in response to the diminished braking
force applied and its rotation speed reaches the reference value, the exhaust valve 2 will be closed.
Simultaneously, the inlet valve 1 is reopened, restoring normal operation of the brake system. The ABS control
unit can monitor and modulate brake force in the three following different conditions: dry road surface (high grip),
wet or slippery road surface (poor grip) and uneven road surface. ABS functionality is disabled at vehicle speeds
lower than 5 km/h.
The hydraulic component of the ABS system consists of a primary circuit (from the cylinder to the control unit and
from the control unit to the calliper) and a secondary circuit (completely within the control unit).
Please find below a chart explaining ABS hydraulic operation.
Key to ABS hydraulic system colours:

Green: oil delivery
Light blue: oil return
Key to ABS hydraulic system
A Rear brake master cylinder
B Front brake master cylinder
1A Rear brake calliper inlet valve
1B Front brake calliper inlet valve
2A Rear brake calliper exhaust valve
2B Front brake calliper exhaust valve
3 Brake master cylinder
4 Little tanks
5A Rear calliper
5B Left front calliper
6B Right front calliper
7 Pressure transducer
Brake system diagram.

Braking without ABS.
ABS 1 modulation: braking.

ABS 2 modulation: pressure partial reduction on callipers.
ABS 3 modulation: pressure total reduction on callipers.

Routing wiring harnesses/hoses
The routing of the ABS system wiring has been optimised to ensure the minimum obstruction.
Each section is designed to prevent interference with parts that might damage wires or cause operating failures
when riding.
Table Position Description
Table A - Table A1 1 ABS control unit
Table A — Table A1 — Table B — Table C — Table D 2 Front brake master cylinder hose
Table A — Table A1 — Table B — Table C — Table E — Table F 3 Front calliper hose
Table A — Table A1 — Table G — Table H — Table I — Table J 4 Rear calliper hose
Table A — Table A1 — Table G — Table H — Table I — Table J 5 Rear brake master cylinder hose
Table E — Table F 6 Front speed sensor cable
Table K 7 Rear speed sensor cable
Table F 8 Front brake right calliper-left calliper hose
Table A
Table A1
Table B
Table C
Table D
Table E
Table F
Table G
Table H
Table I
Table J
Table K
Refitting the ABS control unit
Hoses (8), (7), (6) and (5) must be secured in place using new sealing washers (9) on unions.
Pay attention to the hose direction on the control unit.
Tighten screws (3) to a torque of 23 Nm ±10% and screw (4) to a torque of 23Nm±10%.
If removed, position the bracket (12) and tighten the two screws (11) to a torque of 6.8Nm±1, after applying the
indicated product.
Check that collars (A) and vibration damping pads (B) are present.
Position the control unit (2) on vehicle and secure it to frame by tightening the two screws (10) to a torque of
10Nm±10%.
Refit the ABS control unit (2) on the vehicle.

Connect ABS control unit (2) connector (1).
To fill brake system, follow the instructions given for changing the fluid of the system master cylinder or calliper
hose is connected to ("Changing the front brake system fluid - Changing the rear brake system fluid").
After brake system refitting, carry out bleed as described in chapter "Bleeding of the ABS hydraulic system".
Refit the airbox (Refitting the airbox).

Refit the tank (Refitting the fuel tank).
Removing the ABS control unit

Remove the airbox (Removing the airbox).
Drain off the hydraulic fluid from brake system hoses, by disconnecting these from the calliper and master cylinder,
(Changing the front brake system fluid and Changing the rear brake system fluid).
Disconnect ABS control unit (2) connector (1), lift unit from the vehicle.
Loosen the four special screws (3) and (4) retaining pipes (5), (6), (7) and (8), on ABS control unit (2), by
removing the seals (9).
Warning
Whenever removed, seals must be replaced by new ones on refitting.
Remove the ABS control unit (2), loosening screws (10).

Important
Do not open the ABS control unit: if faulty, replace it.
Should it be necessary to replace one or several hoses, refer to "Routing wiring harnesses / hoses" of this section.
If necessary, loosen the two screws (11) and release the control unit from the bracket (12).
Changing the rear phonic wheel sensor

Remove the rear mudguard (Removing the rear mudguard).
Disconnect connector (1) of rear ABS sensor (2) from main wiring.
Open all clips retaining rear ABS sensor cable (2): refer to tables in chapter "Routing wiring harnesses / hoses".
Remove the rear ABS sensor (2) from its seat on rear calliper holder plate (3), by loosening retaining screw (4)
and collecting calibrated sealing washer (5).
Check air gap between new rear ABS sensor (2) and rear phonic wheel (6) as explained under "Adjusting the AIR-
GAP of phonic wheel sensor".
Fasten the sensor to the calliper holder plate by tightening screw (4) to a torque of 10Nm ± 10%.
Connect connector (1) to main wiring.

Fasten all clips retaining rear ABS sensor cable (2): refer to tables under Section "Routing wiring harnesses / hoses".
Refit the rear mudguard (Refitting the rear mudguard).
Changing the front phonic wheel sensor
Remove the right-hand fairing (Removing the fairings).
Disconnect front ABS sensor (1) connector (A) from main wiring.
Open all clips retaining front ABS sensor cable (1): refer to tables under Section: "Routing wiring harnesses / hoses".
Undo the retaining screw (2), and remove front ABS sensor (1) with calibrated gasket (3), sliding cable out from
cable grommet (4).
Before refitting, make sure that contact parts between front ABS sensor (1) and its seat are free of damage and
perfectly clean.
Fit the new front ABS sensor (1) on its seat inserting the screw (2).
Check air gap between front ABS sensor (1) and front phonic wheel (5) as explained in chapter "Adjusting the AIR-
GAP of phonic wheel sensor.".
Tighten the screw (2) to a torque of 10Nm ± 10%.
Connect the connector (A) to main wiring.
Fasten all clips retaining front ABS sensor cable (1): refer to tables in chapter "Routing wiring harnesses / hoses".
Refit the right front fairing (Refitting the fairings).

Bleeding of the ABS hydraulic system
If brake controls feel "spongy" due to the presence of air bubbles in the system, bleed as usual, as described in
chapters "Changing the front brake system fluid" and "Changing the rear brake system fluid".
Before bleeding a brake master cylinder, move back the calliper pistons as indicated in chapters "Changing the fluid in
the front brake system" and "Changing the fluid in the rear brake system"
Purge must be carried out by means of the corresponding unions (A) placed on the callipers and the brake master
cylinders.
Important
Do not undo the special screws securing the pipe unions on the ABS hydraulic control unit, unless control unit
replacement is necessary.
Important
If the ABS hydraulic control unit has been replaced, it will be supplied with the secondary circuit already filled with
fluid. Control unit must thus be assembled and the system filled and drained as a traditional system.
Adjusting AIR-GAP of phonic wheel sensor
(For front as well as rear sensor) In each case of maintenance that foresees:
- replacement or refitting of the wheel;

- replacement or refitting of the phonic wheel (5) or (6);
- replacement or refitting of the brake discs;
- replacement or refitting of the speed sensor (1) or (2);
- (front) replacement or refitting of the sensor holder bracket;
- (rear) replacement or refitting of the calliper holder plate.
It is necessary to check the air-gap between the speed sensor and the phonic wheel, once the components are
refitted.
For this purpose, use a feeler gauge to check the air-gap; then, carry out 4 measures of the air-gap, one every 90°
of wheel turn.
If the difference between the minimum and maximum values measured is higher than 0.40 mm, replace the phonic
wheel.
Once checked that the difference is lower than or equal to 0.40 mm, carry out the shimming of the speed sensor
(1) or (2) by means of calibrated shims (B).
Phonic wheels cleaning

It is important to check that both phonic wheels (5) and (6) are always clean.
Otherwise: gently remove any possible dirt deposits with a cloth or metal brush.
Avoid using solvents, abrasives and aiming air or water jets directly on the phonic wheel (5) or (6).
Refitting the throttle control
Lubricate the handlebar on the handgrip seat with specified lubricant.
Tighten screws (5) to 4.5Nm±0.5, following a 1-2-1 sequence.
Refit the right hand guard (Refitting the hand guards).

Removing the throttle control
Remove the right hand guard (Removing the hand guards).
Disconnect throttle control connector (7), fitted on vehicle right-hand side.
Loosen screws (5), and remove the handgrip and throttle control (6).
Refitting the handlebar
Apply the recommended grease to the underside of the screws (10).

Insert the screws (10) on the stud bolts (11).
Apply the recommended threadlocker on the thread in view of screws (10).
Fit stud bolts (11) by starting screws (10).
Tighten the screws (10) to a torque of 45Nm±5%, following a 1-2-1 sequence.
Position handlebar (7) in its seat on the stud bolts (11).

Reference points (B) on handlebar must be at the same distance from stud bolts (11) and flush with the stud bolt
surface.
Smear screws (7) with specified grease.

Refit the U-bolt (8) and insert the screws (7).
Tighten the screws (7) to a torque of 25 Nm ± 5%, following a cross pattern.
Refitting the handgrips
Lubricate handlebar (9) on the seat of the removed handgrips, using recommended lubricant and install the
throttle control (Refitting the throttle control), the left handgrip (6) and the relevant counterweight plugs, tightening
them to 2Nm±10%.
Position the left-hand switch (3), connect connector to main wiring and tighten screws (4) to the torque of 1.3Nm
± 10%.
Refit the right-hand switch (1), connect connector to main wiring and tighten screws (2) to the torque of 1.3Nm
±10%.
Refit front brake control, throttle control.
Refit the throttle control (Refitting the throttle control).

Refit the complete front brake control (Refitting the front brake system).
Refit the hand guards (Refitting the hand guards).
Removing the handlebar

Remove the headlight (Headlight).
Remove the complete front brake control (Removing the front brake system).
Remove the hand guards (Removing the hand guards).
Remove right-hand switch (1), by disconnecting the connector together with the hand guard connector and
loosening screws (2).
Remove left-hand switch (3), by disconnecting the connector together with the hand guard connector and
loosening screws (4).
Remove the throttle control (Removing the throttle control).
Removing the left handgrip
Slide out left handgrip (6) with the help of an air jet paying attention not to damage it.
Undo and remove the screws (7).
Remove U-bolt (8) securing the handlebar.
Remove the handlebar (9).
Undo screws (10) holding nut (A) and remove stud bolts (11) from the steering head.
Collect washers (12).
Reassembling the hand guards
Note
The procedure described is the same for both hand guards.
If the LED lamp has been replaced, reposition the cover (8) and tighten the screws (7) to a torque of 0.5Nm±10%
and restore wiring.
If the hand guard has been removed and disassembled, proceed as indicated.
Fit the hand guard (3) and, after having positioned the counterweight (6), start the screw (5).
Warning
Take special care when positioning the hand guard.
Position the hand guard (3), facing the front, on the handlebar, inserting the reference notches (6) on the grooves
(7).
Tighten the hand guard (3) retaining screw (8) to a torque of 10Nm±10%.
Tighten the counterweight screw (5), according to the sequence:

- keep the hand guard end (3) turned downwards;
- keep the screw (5) pressed towards the inner part of the handlebar;
- tighten the screw (5) to a torque of 10Nm±10%.
Connect the connector and restore the proper wiring (4) positioning on the cable ring (A).
Position U-bolt (2), tighten the two screws (1) to a torque of 5.0Nm±10%.
Removing the hand guards
Note
The procedure described is the same for both hand guards.
Loosen the two screws (1) that retain U-bolt (2) of hand guard (3).
Release wiring (4) from cable ring (A) and disconnect the turn indicator connector.
Undo screw (5) securing the hand guard (3), and keep counterweight (6).
Remove screw (8) securing the hand guard (3).
Collect the hand guard.
If necessary, replace the turn indicator (LED) front bulb, unscrew the four screws (7) and, once the cover (8) is
removed, replace the bulb and restore the wiring.
Refitting the clutch assembly
Refit the clutch cable (4) on the clutch cover.
Turn adjuster (5) to tension clutch cable (4) on handlebar.

Screw adjuster (5).
Warning
Never loosen adjuster. Adjuster must be screwed, only.
Adjuster (5) standard adjustment is 5mm from the fully home position.
The maximum adjustment is of 11mm.
Removing the clutch assembly
Screw clutch cable (4) fully home on clutch lever on handlebar, working adjuster (5).
Remove the clutch cable (4) from the clutch cover.

Refitting the ignition switch
Important
Always use new special screws.
Fit the ignition switch (5) in the frame seat and start special screws (4). Tighten screws, shearing the head of the
screws.
Connect ignition switch connector (3) to the main wiring.
Refit the fairings (Refitting the fairings).
Refit the ignition switch cover (1) by starting the nuts (2) on special screws (4).
Tighten nuts (2) to a torque of 7Nm ± 10%.
Removing the ignition switch
Remove the ignition switch cover (1), loosening nuts (2).
Remove the fairings (Removing the fairings)

Disconnect ignition switch connector (3) from the main wiring.
Loosen special screws (4) and remove ignition switch (5).

Refitting the gear change control
Apply the threadlocker on shaft (1).

Install O-ring (3) onto shaft (1).
Insert the shaft (1) in the gear lever (2), and insert the other O-ring (3) and the washer (4).
Fit the gear lever (1) on the footpeg plate by inserting and tightening the shaft (1) to the specified torque of 23Nm
±10%.
Fit lever (7) on gear transmission rod assembly (8), starting screw (9). Tighten screw (9) to a torque of 10 Nm
±10%.
Fit the gear change unit inserting the lever (7) on the gear control pin, apply threadlocker on the screw (6) and
insert it on the lever (7).
Tighten screw (6) to a torque of 10 Nm ±10%.
Disassembling the gear change control
Refer to the exploded view for indications on disassembly and replacement of unit components.
If the bush (5) inside the pedal (2) needs replacing, grease the external surface and drive the new bush into place
using a press. The bush must be seated 2 mm below the outer face of the pedal.
Warning
After working on the gear change control, check the position of the gear pedal.
To adjust the gear pedal position, follow the instructions under chapter "Adjusting the position of the gear and rear brake
pedals.".
Removing the gear change control
Loosen and remove the pin (1) securing the gear pedal (2), and collect the O-rings (3), the washer (4) and bush
(5).
Undo and remove the screw (6) securing the gear lever (7) to the gearbox shaft.
Remove the lever (7) complete with the gear control assembly.
Note
Mark the position of lever with respect to the gear selector shaft.
To remove lever (7) from gear transmission rod assembly (8), loosen screw (9) then slide out lever (7).
Refitting the front fork
Refit the fork legs setting them at the indicated height (A) with respect to the bottom yoke.
Hypermotard, Hyperstrada (Low Seat, Normal Seat)

A = 250.3 mm
SP Hypermotard
A = 245.3 mm
Warning
The difference in height between the two fork legs must be no greater than 0.1 mm.
Position fork legs (5) and (6) on bottom yoke (4) and steering head (3).
Fasten fork legs by tightening screws (1) to 10 Nm ±5% and screws (2) to 16 Nm ±5% retaining bottom yoke (4)
and steering head (3): tighten screws (2) in a 1-2-1 sequence.
Tighten one leg at a time.
Important
If the screws were removed upon disassembly, smear their threads with the specified grease before tightening.
Refit any parts removed from the frame.
Warning
Do not use the motorcycle when front mudguard is not in place since this part supports the brake lines and avoids
that they interfere with the wheel under braking.
Overhauling the front fork
Carefully read the procedures below before working on the fork for any reason whatsoever.
Please remember that suspension installation, maintenance and repair require specific knowledge, equipment and
know-how.
After complete disassembly, always renew seals upon reassembly.
When tightening nuts or bolts close to one another, always follow a 1-2-1 sequence; comply with the specified
tightening torques. Never use flammable or corrosive solvents to clean parts, since they could damage the seals.
If necessary, use specific detergents, in preference biodegradable, non corrosive, non flammable ones or having a
high flash point, compatible with the seal materials.
Before reassembling, always lubricate the fork mating parts.
Always smear seal lips with some grease before reassembly.
When using a screwdriver to install or remove snap rings, O-rings, guide bushes or sealing rings, make sure not to
scratch or damage the parts.
Note
It is recommended to overhaul one fork leg at a time.
Do not modify the fork components.
Safety and environment protection rules
Smaltimento
Note
Using the vice
Some service procedures might require the use of the vice to hold some fork components.
Warning
Incorrect use of the vice could damage the fork, even though damage might not be immediately visible, and
jeopardise its safety features.
Carefully comply with the following instructions:

Only use the vice when it is absolutely necessary.
Always use a vice with jaws made from soft material.
Do not tighten vice too much.
Do not vice fork at positions where the least deformation might damage the part and cause suspension
malfunction.
The figure below highlights the suggested areas that can be used to vice the fork: fork bottom end (A) and sleeve
(B) in the area where the bottom yoke is fastened.
REMOVING THE LEFT FORK
Remove the front wheel (Removing the front wheel)

Remove the forks (Removing the front fork).
Vice the fork (1) and pay attention to protect the sleeve.
Apply some adhesive tape on the hexagon flat to prevent any damage.
Slacken the top plug (2).
Take the outer sleeve (1) down.
Drain all fluid from the sleeve.
To help draining, move damper rod a few times, then leave sleeve upside-down until fluid has completely drained.
Important
Draining all fluid from the fork is very important. because, due to fork construction and design, it is not possible to
measure the air volume from fluid surface to fork edge when filling the fork with fluid.
Set the fork in the vice and clamp the bottom end. Use the suitable protection plates to avoid any damage.
Remove the fork plug (2) and detach it from damper rod assembly.
Remove dust seal (3) from outer sleeve (1).
Slide out outer sleeve (1) from fork leg (4) by hitting several times to counter-hold the sliding bushing resistance.
Using suitable tools, remove snap ring (5), oil seal (6) and shim (7).
Important
Protect the sleeve with rubber before vicing it to avoid any damage.
Remove bushing (8).
Important
To help bushing removal, heat up the outer sleeve in the areas of the bushings up to a temperature of 100°.
Work on fork leg and remove bushing (9).
REFITTING THE LEFT FORK
Protect bushing seat with some adhesive tape.
Lubricate fork leg with fork oil and install, in this sequence:
- Dust seal (3);

- Snap ring (5);
- Oil seal (6);
- Shim (7);
- Bushing (8).
Note
Pay attention to the direction of installation of oil seal, spring must face outward.
Remove the adhesive tape previously applied.

Fit the sliding bushing (9) in its housing.
Fit leg (4) into the outer sleeve (1).
Install bushing (8) in its housing.

Fit shim (7) on bushing.
With tool (A) part no. 88713.1096 push bushing/shim assembly fully home.
Then, using the same tool, install oil seal (6).
Fit snap ring (5) and dust seal (3).

Fill with 500 cc (RH leg) and 506 cc (LH leg).
Tighten plug (2) and take lock nut (10) fully home.
Tighten plug (2) on lock nut (10).
Tighten plug (2) on sleeve (1).

REMOVING THE RIGHT FORK
Vice the fork and pay attention to protect the sleeve.

Fit the top plug (10).
Take the outer sleeve (11) down.
Drain the oil from the fork.

Fit tool (B) part no. 88713.0957 in the preload tube.
Use a suitable tool to lower the preload tube and insert under the nut the tool (C) with part no. 88713.0957.
Unscrew plug (10) and remove it from damper rod.

Remove the preload plug (12).
Be careful when removing the fork plug; the preload plug could pop out because of the spring (13) strength.
Remove spring (13).
Using tool (D) part no. 88713.0950 move damper rod a few times to drain all the fluid and leave the sleeve
upside-down until the fluid has completely drained.
Important
Draining all fluid from the fork is very important. because, due to fork construction and design, it is not possible to
measure the air volume from fluid surface to fork edge when filling the fork with fluid.
Remove the sliding bushing (14) from the leg.
Remove dust seal (15) from outer sleeve (11).

Remove snap ring (16).
Slide out outer sleeve (11) from fork leg (17) by hitting several times to counter-hold the sliding bushing
resistance.
Remove oil seal (18) and shim (19).
Remove bushing (20).
Important
To help bushing removal, heat up the outer sleeve in the areas of the bushings up to a temperature of 100°.
REFITTING THE RIGHT FORK
Protect bushing seat with some adhesive tape.

Lubricate fork leg with fork oil and install, in this sequence:
- Dust seal (15);

- Snap ring (16);
- Oil seal (18);
- Shim (19);
- Bushing (20).
Note
Pay attention to the direction of installation of oil seal, spring must face outward.
Fit leg into the sleeve.

Install bushing (20) in its housing.
Fit shim (19).
With tool (E) part no. 88713.1096 push bushing/shim assembly fully home.
Insert oil seal (18) following the same procedure.
Fit snap ring (16) and dust seal (15).

Remove the adhesive tape.
Insert bushing (14).
Insert in the damper rod tool (D) part no. 88713.0950 and the spring (13).
Warning
The spring must be positioned as indicated.
Bring the lock nut (21) fully home.
Fill with 500 cc of fluid and operate the damper rod several times to make filling easier.
Insert preload tube (12) on the spring and using tool (B) part no. 88713.0957 insert the other tool (C) part no.
88713.0957 to reach the damper rod upper part.
Tighten plug (10) fully home and screw lock nut (21).
Tighten plug (10) on lock nut (21).
Remove tool (C) part no. 88713.0957.

Tighten plug (10) on sleeve (11).
Removing the front fork
Warning
Before removing this part, it is first necessary to remove the following parts:
- front brake callipers (Removing the front brake system);

- front mudguard (- Removing the front mudguard);
- front wheel (Removing the front wheel);
Working on both forks, loosen the screws (1) holding the fork legs to the steering head (3).
Loosen the screws (2) securing the fork legs to the bottom yoke (4).
Withdraw the fork legs (5) and (6) downwards in order to carry out all the necessary overhaul operations.
Refitting the steering tube components
Important
The steering tube bearings are identical but in no case may their components be swapped during refitting.
Clean all contact surfaces and lubricate with the recommended grease.
To fit the outer rings (8) of bearings (6) to the steering tube, use tool (D) no. 88713.1062;
Proceed as follows:
- heat the steering tube to 150 °C;

- fit the outer rings (8) in their seats on the steering tube;
- fit the fixed bush (9) with threaded hole of the tool into the lower ring;
- fit the other movable bush (10) into the upper end of the tool and drive it fully home against the upper bearing
race;
- tighten the nut (11), and use a wrench to seat the outer rings (8) fully in the steering tube;
- leave the tool fitted until the steering tube has cooled down to ensure that bearings are properly seated.
Insert the sealing ring (5) (with the rim facing upwards) and the inner ring (A) of the bottom bearing (6) onto the
steering shaft after heating it for about 10 minutes to 120 °C.
Insert drift (E) part no. 88713.1072.
Push the inner ring (A) on the sealing ring (5), manually pushing for at least 10-15 seconds.
Lubricate the inner ring (A) with the recommended grease.
Fit the ball race (B) on the steering shaft with the smaller diameter of the cage facing upwards, and grease the ball
race.
Insert the steering shaft into the steering tube, and push it in until it is axially seated.
Fit the bottom yoke assembly to frame.
Grease the ball race (B) and fit it to the upper outer ring (8) of the frame.
Fit the inner ring (A) of the upper bearing (6) to the steering head, with the larger diameter side of the race facing
upwards.
Install the sealing ring (5) with the flat side facing upwards.
Tighten the adjuster ring nut (3) by hand until it seats against the sealing ring (5).
Position on ring nut (3) the special bush (C) part no. 88713.1058 and fit the torque wrench on it.
Apply recommended threadlocker on thread and tighten adjuster ring nut (3) to 30 Nm ±5%.
Fit the steering head (2) on the ring nut (3), aligning the fork leg seats with the corresponding seats on the bottom
yoke.
Refit the fork legs. Apply recommended grease to the screw (1).
Tighten screw (1) on steering head to a torque of 18 Nm ±5%.
Refit the handlebar and the U-bolts (Refitting the handlebar).

Refit the front wheel (Refitting the front wheel).
Refit the front brake callipers (Refitting the front brake system).
Removing the steering tube components
Remove the front brake callipers (Removing the front brake system).
Remove the front wheel (Removing the front wheel)
Remove fork legs (Removing the front fork).
Remove the headlight fairing (Removing the headlight fairing).
Remove the handlebar and the U-bolts (Removing the handlebar).
Warning
All parts fitted to the steering head and bottom yoke, including wiring and hoses, can remain on the motorcycle
provided they do not hinder the following operations.
Loosen the screw (1) securing the steering head (2) to the ring nut (3).
Remove the steering head (2).
Using tool (C) part no. 88713.1058 loosen the ring nut (3) and unscrew it from the steering shaft.
Slide the sealing ring (5), the inner ring (A) and the ball race (B) of the upper bearing (7) off the steering shaft.
Remove the bottom yoke (7) complete with the steering shaft from the frame tube.
Remove the ball race (B) of the lower bearing (6).
The inner ring (A) of the lower bearing (6) and the sealing ring (5) will remain on the steering shaft.
Using a universal puller (see figure), remove the inner ring (A) from the steering shaft, taking care not to damage
the seat.
Important
The removed seals and bearings shall not be reused and must be replaced with similar new components.
Using a suitable punch, remove the outer bearing races (8) from the steering tube. Proceed with extreme care to
avoid damaging the seats.
Steering angle adjustment
Loosen the nuts (2).
Start the nuts (2), fully home (without tightening) on the steering angle adjuster dowels (6), starting them on the
opposite side with respect to the wrench.
Tighten steering angle dowels (3) on bottom yoke, until obtaining the indicated position.
Tighten nuts (2) so as they are centred with respect to the thread in view of the steering angle adjuster dowels.
Adjusting the steering head bearing clearance
Adjust steering head bearing clearance as explained in chapter "Adjusting the steering head bearing clearance" of
chapter "Maintenance operations".
If the problems found are not solved, check the wear of steering bearings (1) and replace them, if necessary, as
described in paragraph "Removing the steering tube components".
Refitting the rear suspension
Apply the specified product on thread and underside of top screw (3) and lower screw (4).
Fit the shock absorber top end into rear subframe and tighten screw (3); fit shock absorber bottom end to swinging
arm and tighten screw (4).
Tighten screws (3) and (4) to a torque of 42Nm ± 5 %.
Fit the preload adjustment knob (A) on the support frame and tighten the screws (2) to a torque of 10Nm±10%.
Fasten the expansion reservoir by tightening screws (5) and (6) to the specified torque of 5Nm±10%.
Connect connector (C) to the passenger power socket.

Refit the exhaust silencer (Refitting the silencer).
Overhauling the rear shock absorber
Spring preload
A Spring free length

B Fitted spring length
A - B Spring preload
Hypermotard
SP Hypermotard
Hyperstrada
When adjusting the spring preload you move the spring seat.
This will decrease or increase the initial spring force, which will lower or raise the motorcycle rear ride height.
The spring preload is fundamental for the suspension correct operation.
If the preload is incorrectly set, any other adjustments will not help to get the intended performance from the
suspension
HOW TO SET THE SPRING PRELOAD
Mechanical adjuster (Hypermotard, Hypermotard SP)
Use a C-spanner.
Loosen lock nut (7).
Move the lower spring ring nut (8) to the required position.
Turn clockwise to increase the preload, turn counter clockwise to decrease it.
Hydraulic adjuster (Hyperstrada)
Turn the hexagon flat on the hydraulic adjuster to set the spring preload.
Turn clockwise to increase, turn counter clockwise to decrease.
Hydraulic damping (Hypermotard, Hyperstrada)
Adjuster (9), located on the swinging arm, adjusts the damping during the rebound phase (return). Turn adjuster
(9) clockwise to stiffen the damping, or counter clockwise to soften it.
Hydraulic damping (Hypermotard SP)

Knob (10) located on the expansion reservoir adjusts the damping during the compression phase.
Knob (11), located on the upper connection holding the shock absorber to the swinging arm, adjusts the damping
during the rebound phase (return).
Turn knobs (10) or (11) clockwise to stiffen the damping, or counter clockwise to soften it.
Removing the rear shock absorber
Remove the rear mudguard (Removing the rear mudguard).

Support the rear side of the vehicle in a suitable way.

Loosen screws (2) to remove preload adjustment knob (A).
Disconnect connector (C) of passenger power socket.
To remove the rear shock absorber from the vehicle, undo the upper (3) screw and the lower screw (4).
Loosen and remove the two securing screws (5) and (6).
Remove the expansion reservoir and the complete shock absorber.
Rear suspension system
Hypermotard
The rear suspension system uses a hydraulic monoshock (1) adjustable for compression rebound and spring
preload.
Shock absorber pivots onto a swinging arm at the bottom and rear subframe at the top. The whole system gives
the motorcycle excellent stability.
For rear shock absorber adjustment, refer to chapter "Adjusting the rear shock absorber".
Hyperstrada
The rear suspension system uses a hydraulic monoshock (1) adjustable for compression rebound and spring
preload. Shock absorber pivots onto a swinging arm at the bottom and rear subframe at the top. The whole system
gives the motorcycle excellent stability. For rear shock absorber adjustment, refer to chapter "Adjusting the rear
shock absorber".
SP Hypermotard
The rear suspension system uses a hydraulic single shock absorber (1) adjustable for rebound and spring preload.
Shock absorber pivots onto a swinging arm at the bottom and rear subframe at the top. The whole system gives
the motorcycle excellent stability.
For rear shock absorber adjustment, refer to chapter "Adjusting the rear shock absorber".
Refitting the rear swinging arm
Apply the recommended threadlocker on the screws (11).

Fit the chain guard (12) in the swingarm opening (7), secure it in place using the screws (11): tighten screws (11)
to 5 Nm ±10%.
Fit the speed sensor cable in the hose clips (3), apply recommended threadlocker and tighten screws (3) to the
specified torque of 2 Nm ± 10%.
Tighten screw (1) of the speed sensor (2) applying recommended threadlocker to the torque of 7 Nm ± 10%.
Fit chain sliding shoe (4), making sure that the sensor cable is routed as shown in the figure.
Apply recommended threadlocker and tighten screws (5) to the torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.
Fit the swinging arm by placing it on the special seat on the frame.
Lubricate the swinging arm shaft (8) with recommended grease and insert it fully home into the frame.
Fit the two circlips (A).
Refit the two footpeg holder plates and secure shaft with screw (9)
On the opposite side of the motorcycle fasten the swingarm shaft (8) with screw (9) after having smeared it with
specified grease, fitting washer (10) between the swinging arm and the frame.
Tighten screw (9) to a torque of 72 Nm ±5%.
Refit the rear shock absorber.
Refit the rear brake calliper (Refitting the rear brake calliper).
Refit the rear sprocket (Refitting the rear sprocket).
Refit the rear wheel (Refitting the rear wheel).
Overhauling the rear swinging arm
Select the shim (13) size upon swinging arm refitting.

To check the end float, proceed as follows:
- fit shim (13), 1.8 thick on engine both sides;

- set the left side of the swinging arm on the engine and use a feeler gauge or calibrated to check the play on
the engine opposite side
The maximum side play allowed is 0.10 mm.

If the gauge size is 0.18mm and it fits with difficulties, do not fit any shim. If this is not the case, the available
shim sizes are 0.20 mm and 0.10 with which it is possible to restore the specified play.
Example:

Measured play Left-hand side shims Right-hand side shims
0.10 - no. 1 shim (0.10 mm)
0.20 no. 1 shim (0.10 mm) no. 1 shim (0.10 mm)
0.50 no. 1 shim (0.20 mm) no. 1 shim (0.20 mm) + no.1 shim (0.1 mm)
Important
The shims with greater size have to be fitted on the swinging arm right-hand side.
The thinner shim must always be in contact with the swinging arm.
Do NOT fit shims with size equal to 0.1 on the left side.
The maximum value of the set of shims on the left must be 2mm (1.8+ 0.2max.)
The maximum swinging arm rear end play is within 1 mm.
Inspecting the swinging arm shaft
Before refitting the swinging arm shaft (8), check it carefully for distortion.
Turn the shaft on a reference surface and measure distortion using a feeler gauge.
Removing the swinging arm
Before removing the concerned parts, you must first carry out the following operations:
Remove the rear sprocket (Replacing the rear sprocket).
Remove the rear brake calliper (Removing the rear brake calliper).
Remove the rear shock absorber.
Remove the rear eccentric hub as described in "Removing the rear wheel eccentric hub and the rear wheel shaft"
Undo screw (1) of the speed sensor and remove sensor (2).
Undo and remove the screws (3) of the cable rings.
Remove chain sliding shoe (4) after undoing screws (5). Release rear speed sensor (6).
It is possible to check the supporting bearing play while the swinging arm (7) is still fitted on the motorcycle frame.
Try to move the rear of the swinging arm (7) in the four directions.
Any abnormal movement is a sign of worn bearings that could cause bike instability.
Once the play in the support bearings has been checked, the rear swinging arm (7) may be removed from the
motorcycle.
Hold the swingarm shaft (8) with the screws (9) on the bike left side, and at the same time loosen the screw (9) on
the opposite side: collect the washer (10).
Remove the two footpeg holder plates (Removing the footpeg holder plates).
Remove circlip (A) placed on both sides.
Using the drift fully extract the swingarm shaft.
Remove the swinging arm assembly from the frame.
Undo the screws (11) to remove the chain sliding shoe (12) from the swingarm (7).
Refitting the rear wheel eccentric hub and rear wheel shaft
Refitting is the reverse of removal, with attention to the following points.

If the calliper bracket locating pin (10) was removed, apply the recommended threadlocker upon reassembly.
Tighten shaft (10) to a torque of 33Nm±5%.
Before refitting, apply recommended grease on the eccentric hub (9).
Fit the first washer (6).

Apply recommended grease on seals (8) and position them in the seat of plate (7). Fit plate (7) to swinging arm:
pin (10) must be engaged in the plate (7).
Refit the other washer (6).

Fit the O-ring with the sharp edge facing out.
Make sure that the eccentric hub (9) position to swinging arm (11) is with the horizontal axis (D) of the hub hole
(B) below the horizontal axis (C) of the hub seat.
Apply an even coating of the recommended grease in the areas (A) of the shaft (3).
Insert the rear wheel shaft (3) in the hub.
Ensure the wheel shaft (3) is seated in the hub.
Fit the inner ring (2) on the wheel shaft (3).
Insert the inner ring (2) in the hub.
Apply recommended grease to screws (A) and tighten to 35 Nm ±5% in the 1-2-1 sequence.
Refit the rear brake calliper (Refitting the rear brake calliper).
Refit the rear sprocket (Refitting the rear sprocket).
Tension the chain as described in Section (Adjusting the chain tension).
Removing the rear wheel eccentric hub and rear wheel shaft

Remove the rear sprocket (Replacing the rear sprocket).
Remove the rear brake calliper (Removing the rear brake calliper).
Loosen screws (A).

Remove the spacer (1) and the inner ring (2) on the chain side, and remove the wheel shaft (3) with the brake disc
(4) from the opposite side.
Collect the washer and remove the O-ring (5), on the wheel side of the eccentric hub.
Remove the calliper holder plate (7), the inner washer (6) and collect the inner O-ring (8).
The rear hub is very important for vehicle dynamic safety; it is available as a single spare part since you must not
service its internal parts; part no.75620062A.
To overhaul the components, proceed as described in chapter "Checking the tightening of the rear brake disc screws and
of the phonic wheel (with rear wheel shaft removal)".
Lubricating the chain
O-ring chains have sealed, life-lubed link studs and bushes.

However, these chains need to be lubricated at regular intervals to protect metal parts of the chain and the O-
rings.
Lubrication also serves to keep the O-rings soft and pliable to ensure the maximum sealing efficiency.
Using a brush, apply a thin protective layer of high-density gearbox oil along the entire length of the chain both
inside and outside.
Washing the chain
Chains with O-rings must be washed in oil, diesel fuel or paraffin.

Do not use fuel, trichloroethylene or other solvents which will damage the rubber O-rings.
For the same reason use only sprays specifically formulated for use with O-ring chains.
Refitting the rear sprocket
Check the cush drive dampers (7) condition and, if necessary, replace them by removing them from the flange.
Apply the recommended grease to the outer diameter of rear sprocket holder flange (4).
Fit rear sprocket flange (4) onto rear sprocket (5), engaging cush drive damper pins (7).
Apply recommended threadlocker to the nut thread (8).
Start nuts on cush drive damper pins threaded end (7).
Tighten the nuts (8) to a torque of 48Nm±10%, following a cross pattern.
Check for wear as described under Section "Inspection of the final drive".
To refit the nut (2), follow the specifications for the wheel locking nut, in chapter "Refitting the rear wheel".
Replacing the rear sprocket
Slacken the chain

Remove the exhaust silencers (Removing the silencer).
Restrain wheel shaft against rotation.

Remove the circlip (1).
Using a suitable socket wrench, loosen nut (2).
Fully unscrew the nut (2) and remove the washer (3) and the flange (4) with the sprocket (5).
Collect spacer (6).
Using a mallet, tap the sprocket flange (4) with the cush drive damper (7) off the rear sprocket (5).
Refitting the front sprocket
Refit the ring (8).

Grease the O-ring (7), and install it on the front sprocket spacer (6).
Fit the spacer, from the O-ring side, on the secondary shaft and drive it fully home against the inner ring of the
bearing.
Before refitting the front sprocket, check that the spacer (6) is installed on the gearbox secondary shaft.
Check that the splines of the gearbox secondary shaft and the sprocket are in perfect condition.
Fit the front sprocket (5) on the gearbox secondary shaft, orienting it as shown. Fit lockwasher (4).
After having applied the recommended threadlocker, tighten the nut (3) to a torque of 186 Nm ±5%.
Bend the washer (4) over the nut.
Fit the chain and close it using the tool (X) part no. 88713.1344 used to open the chain.
The tool consists of a holder (A), a punch (B), body (C) and two wrenches (D) and (E) and a plate holder (F).
Connect the two ends of the chain with the external link, and manually fit the plate onto the pins.
Warning
Lubricate the pins abundantly; try to avoid touching them with your hands.
Fit the holder (A) onto the external link.

Fit the punch (B) into the body (C) and the plate holder (F).
Fit the body (C) onto the holder (A) which holds the chain in position.
Manually turn the bolt (G) until the plate holder (F) is seated against the plate itself.
Use wrenches (D) and (E) to turn the bolt (G) clockwise until the chain pin is in contact with the holder (F).
Remove the holder (A) from the tool.
Manually turn the bolt (G) until the punch (B) is brought into contact with the pin to be riveted, taking care that
they are aligned.
Use wrenches (D) and (E) to turn the bolt clockwise until the punch (B) is seated against the chain plate.
To complete riveting, repeat the entire procedure with the second pin.
Warning
Carefully check the two pins: the figure shows the correct result of the procedure.
Tension the chain (Adjustment of chain tension).

Apply the recommended threadlocker to the screws (2).
Fit the sprocket cover (1) and tighten the screws (2) to a torque of 6Nm±10%.
Removing the front sprocket
Undo the screws (2), and remove the chain cover (1).
Slacken the chain (Adjusting the chain tension).
Remove the chain using tool (X) part no. 88713.1344.

The tool consists of a holder (A), a punch (B), a body (C) and two wrenches (D) and (E).
Fit the link to be opened into the holder (A).
Fit the punch (B) into the body (C) and manually undo the screw until the punch no longer protrudes.
Fit the holder (A) and the link into the body (C).
Manually turn the bolt (F) on body (C) so that the punch (B) gets against the pin, taking care that they are aligned.
Fit the hexagon wrench (D) into the hexagonal part of the body (C) and the wrench (E) onto the bolt.
Turn clockwise the bolt (F) until the pin comes out.
Remove the chain.
Engage a low gear and unscrew the nut (3).
Remove the nut (3) and the lockwasher (4) on the sprocket.
Remove the front sprocket (5) from the gearbox secondary shaft.
Remove the spacer (6) with O-ring (7) and washer (8) from the gearbox secondary shaft.
Important
The O-ring must be renewed upon removal.
Inspection of the final drive
To check the final drive wear, visually check the front sprocket (1) and the rear sprocket (2).
If the teeth are worn as shown in the figure (dotted line), the final drive must be replaced.
Warning
Make sure that the rear sprocket, front sprocket and chain are all replaced together as a set.
Refitting the footpegs
Refitting the front footpegs
Note
The refitting of the front RH footpeg is described in detail; the LH footpeg can be removed following the same
procedure.
Position spring (4) so that the end (A) rests on the footpeg (3).
Position footpeg (3) inserting the end (C) of spring (4) in the hole (D) of the frame plate.
Fit pin (2) as shown.
Lock pin using circlip (1).
If previously removed, refit the footpeg rubber block.
Refitting the rear footpegs
Note
Refitting of the rear RH footpeg is described in detail; the LH footpeg can be removed following the same
procedure.
Insert spring stopper (12) into the relevant frame hole, aiming it as shown.
If necessary, smear pin (8) retaining spring (12) with recommended grease in order to keep it in the correct
position.
Insert the spring (11) into the special hole of the footpeg (9).
Fit the ball (10) on the spring (11).
Fit the footpeg (9) to rear RH footpeg holder plate (9) fitting pin (8), positioning parts as shown.
Fasten pin using circlip (7).
If previously removed, refit the footpeg rubber block (6).
Removing the footpegs
Note
The operations described in this section relate to one footpeg, but they apply also to those on the other side of
vehicle.
A: front footpegs;
B: rear footpegs.
Removing the front footpegs (A)
Remove the circlip (1) thereby releasing the pin (2).

Slide out pin (2), while supporting the footpeg (3).
Slide out footpeg (3) from its seat and collect spring (4).
If necessary, remove the footpeg rubber block (5).
Removing the rear footpegs (B)

If necessary, remove the rubber cap (6).
Remove the circlip (7) thereby releasing the pin (8).
Slide out pin (8) from frame (7), holding the footpeg (9) and making sure that the ball (10) and the spring (11) are
not released.
Slide out footpeg (9) from its seat and collect spring (11) and ball (10).
Remove the spring stopper (12).
Refitting the centre stand
Apply the recommended threadlocker to the screws (3).

Refit centre stand (4), and start screws (3) and tighten to a torque of 18 Nm ±10%.
If previously removed, apply recommended threadlocker on pin (5), and tighten to a torque of 10 Nm ±10%.
Fit spring (1) into spring (2).

Fasten springs (1) and (2) to pin (5) at the front and to stand hole (4) at the rear.
Make sure that stand works.
Removing the centre stand
Remove the springs (1) and (2).

Loosen screws (3) and remove the centre stand (4) from the motorcycle.
Refitting the side stand
Grease the side stand leg (8) and fit it to the bracket (3). Secure it with the pin (7) and the nut (9).
Tighten nut (9) to a torque of 20Nm ± 10%.
Position the side stand return springs (5) and (6) and attach them to fasteners (B) and (C) on bracket and stand.
Place the switch (1) on the plate, on its pin (7).

Fit the retaining screw (4) with recommended threadlocker and tighten to a torque of 5Nm±10%.
Position the side stand bracket (3) to the frame and fit the two screws (2) smeared with recommended
threadlocker.
Tighten the screws (2) to a torque of 43Nm ± 10%.
Connect the side stand switch connector (A) to the main wiring.
To position stand switch wiring, refer to table "Routing of wiring on frame".
Removing the side stand
Disconnect connector (A) of the stand switch (1) from the main wiring.
Undo the two fastening screws (2) of the side stand support plate (3) to the engine and remove the complete side
stand.
Undo the retaining screw (4) and remove the side stand switch (1).
Release stand return springs (5) and (6) disengaging them from retainers (B) and (C). Unscrew the pin (7)
securing the side stand to the bracket and remove side stand (8) and nut (9). Inspection
Inspecting the side stand
Fit the side stand to the plate and check that there is no excessive clearance. Ensure that the ends of the side
stand are not bent with respect to the shank.
A side stand which shows signs of cracking must be replaced immediately.
Refitting the rear subframe
Following the same procedure on both sides of the vehicle, according to the needs, position the rear subframes (5)
and tighten the two screws (3) and (4) to a torque of 24Nm±5%.
Working on both sides of the vehicle, position side body panel (2) and tighten the two screws (1) to a torque of
4.5Nm±10%.
Refit the rear shock absorber (Refitting the rear suspension - Hyperstrada).
Refit the electrical components compartment (Refitting the electrical components compartment).
Refit the rear grab handle kit (Rear grab handle kit) (Hyperstrada).
Refitting the side panniers (Side pannier kit) (Hyperstrada).
Refitting the tail light (Refitting the tail light).
Refit the rear side body panels (Refitting the rear side body panels - Hypermotard, Hypermotard SP).
Refit the number plate holder (Refitting the number plate holder).
Refitting the structural parts and frame
Make sure that the two outer rings (1) in the steering tube (2) and the vibration damper (3) are fitted.
Make sure that the clips (4) and the hose clips (5) are fitted on the frame (6).
Make sure that the vibration damper is fitted (7).
If removed, refit the pads (8) securing the tank as shown. Position the spacer pad (9) and fix pad (8) with screw
(10), tightening it to a torque of 8Nm±10%.
The spacer pads (9) are different.

Pay the utmost attention to position the cylindrical spacer pad (9A) on the right side of the vehicle, and the shaped
(9B) one on the left side, as shown in the figure.
If removed, refit the crosspiece (11) positioning washers (12) in their seat and tightening the two screws (13) with
pre-applied threadlocker, to a torque of 24Nm±10%, following a 1-2-1 sequence.
Keep on installing the removed components, as described in the listed chapters.
Warning
Secure the vehicle, supporting it properly.
Refit the frame on the engine (Refitting the engine).
Position the main electric wiring on the vehicle and connect the electrical components as described in chapter
"Routing of wiring on frame".
Refit the secondary air system on the vehicle (Refitting the secondary air system).
Refit the centre stand (Hyperstrada) (Refitting the centre stand).
Refit the side stand (Refitting the side stand).
Refit the rear subframe(Refitting the rear subframe).
Refit the exhaust pipe (except silencer) (Refitting the exhaust system).
Refit the rear swinging arm (Refitting the rear swinging arm).
Refit the rear shock absorber (Refitting the rear suspension - Hypermotard) (Refit the rear suspension - Hypermotard SP)
(Refitting the rear suspension - Hyperstrada).
Refit the footpeg holder plates (Refitting the footpegs).
Refit the intake unit (Refitting the throttle body, Refitting the airbox).
Refit the cooling system and restore fluid level (Refitting the cooling system hoses and unions, Refitting the water tank,
Refitting the water radiator).
Refit the lubrication system (Refitting the lubrication system).
Refit the canister unit (Refitting the canister filter).
Refit the ignition unit (Refitting the ignition switch).
Refit the steering bearings (Refitting the steering tube components).
Refit the forks (Refitting the front fork).
Remove the front wheel (Refitting the front wheel).
Refit the handlebar (Refitting the handlebar).
Refit the throttle control cable (Refitting the throttle control).
Refit the headlight fairing (Refitting the headlight fairing) and the front light assembly (Headlight).
Inspecting the frame
Compare the dimensions of the frame with the values indicated here to determine whether it needs to be re-
aligned or replaced.
Important
Damaged frames must be changed, not repaired. Any work carried out on the frame can give rise to potential
danger, infringing the requirements of EC directives concerning manufacturer's liability and general product safety.
Frame overall dimensions
A= 25.5°(+0.3°; 0) mm
B= 689 (+1; 0) mm
C= 315 mm
D= 32 mm
E= 132.1 mm
F= 164.6 mm
G= 129.3 mm
H= 149 mm
I= 259.3 mm
Removing the rear subframe

Remove the number plate holder (Removing the number plate holder).
Remove the rear side body panels (Removing the rear side body panels - Hypermotard, Hypermotard SP) (Removing the
rear side body panels - Hyperstrada).
Remove the tail light (Removing the tail light).
Remove the side panniers (Side pannier kit) (Hyperstrada).
Remove the rear grab handle kit (Rear grab handle kit) (Hyperstrada).
Remove the electrical component compartment (Removing the electrical component compartment).
Remove the rear shock absorber tank (Removing the rear shock absorber) (Hyperstrada).
Working on both sides of the vehicle, loosen the two screws (1) and remove the side body panel (2).
Following the same procedure on both sides of the vehicle, according to the needs, unscrew the two screws (3) and
(4) to remove the rear subframes (5).
Removing structural components and frame
Before carrying out dimensional checks on the frame, remove all the fitted superstructures, referring to the
removal procedures outlined in the relevant sections of this manual.
The rear subframe is a structural component of the frame.
Both serve to support motorcycle superstructures and must therefore be in perfect condition.
The list below indicates the components to be removed in a logical order.
Warning
Secure the vehicle, supporting it properly.

Remove the headlight fairing (Removing the headlight fairing) and the front light assembly (Headlight).
Remove the throttle control cable (Removing the throttle control).
Remove the handlebar (Removing the handlebar).
Remove the front wheel (Removing the front wheel).
Remove the forks (Removing the front fork).
Remove the steering bearings (Removing the steering tube components).
Remove the ignition unit (Removing the ignition switch).
Remove the canister unit (Removing the canister filter).
Empty the lubrication system (Removing the lubrication system).
Empty and remove the cooling system (Removing the water tank, Removing the water radiator, Removing the cooling system
hoses and unions).
Remove intake unit (Removing the airbox, Removing the throttle body).

Remove the footpeg holder plates (Removing the footpegs).
Remove the rear shock absorber (Removing the rear shock absorber - Hypermotard) (Removing the rear shock absorber -
Hypermotard SP) (Removing the rear shock absorber - Hyperstrada).
Remove the swinging arm (Removing the rear swinging arm).
Remove the complete exhaust system (Removing the exhaust system).
Remove the rear subframe (Removing the rear subframe).
Remove the side stand (Removing the side stand).
Remove centre stand (Removing the centre stand) (Hyperstrada).
Remove the secondary air system (Removing the secondary air system).
Remove the electrical components still connected (Routing of wiring on frame).
Loosen the two special screws (1) on the RH side of the vehicle and collect the two flanged nuts (2) on the LH side.
Release the frame from the engine.
Refitting the tail light
Position the tail light and tighten screws (10) to the specified torque of 18 Nm ± 10%.
Route the wiring (12) through the cable ring (13).
Refit the rear side body panels (Refitting the rear side body panels - Hypermotard, Hypermotard SP) (Refitting the rear
side body panels - Hyperstrada).
Removing the tail light

Remove the rear side body panels (Removing the rear side body panels - Hypermotard, Hypermotard SP) (Removing the
rear side body panels - Hyperstrada).
Loosen and remove the screws securing the tail light (10).
Remove the tail light by releasing the wiring (12) from cable ring (13).
Refitting the number plate holder
Refit the number plate holder starting and tightening screws (1) to the specified torque of 20Nm±10%
Connect the connector (2).
Refit the pannier kit (Hyperstrada) (Side pannier kit).

Removing the number plate holder

Remove the pannier kit (Hyperstrada) (Side pannier kit).
Loosen screws (1) retaining number plate holder.
Disconnect turn indicator and number plate holder connector (2) from the main wiring.
Remove the number plate holder.

Refitting the electric components compartment
Position the electrical components compartment on the frame and tighten screws (14) to the specified torque of 18
Nm ± 10%.
Fasten the solenoid (7) by tightening screws (8) to the torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.
Connect exhaust valve motor (5) cable (6).

Fasten by the means of tie (4), the exhaust valve motor cable.
Position the fuse box (2) by means of special tabs.
Fasten main wiring (3) as shown in the figure, by means of clamps (1).
Refit the battery (Battery).

Refit the tail light (Refitting the tail light).
Refit the seat (Refitting the seat)
Restore component routing and the relevant connection in the electrical components compartment (Routing of wiring
on frame).
Secure the rear shock absorber expansion reservoir (Hyperstrada) (Refitting the rear suspension).
Refit the rear grab handles (Hyperstrada) (Rear grab handle kit).
Refit the side pannier kit (Hyperstrada) (Side pannier kit).
Removing the electric components compartment
Remove the side pannier kit (Hyperstrada) (Side pannier kit).

Remove the rear grab handles (Hyperstrada) (Rear grab handle kit).
Release the compartment from rear shock absorber expansion reservoir connection (Hyperstrada) (Removing the
rear shock absorber).
Release connections in the electrical components compartment (Routing of wiring on frame).

Remove the battery (Battery).
Remove the tail light (Removing the tail light).
Release the main wiring (3) removing the two clips (1), releasing the fuse box (2).
Remove tie securing exhaust valve motor cable (4).

Disconnect cable (6) of the exhaust valve motor cable (5).
Remove solenoid (7), by undoing the screws (8) and collecting washers (9).
Loosen and remove the screws (14).
Remove electrical components compartment (15) collecting the rear bracket (16).
Refitting the fuel tank
Fit the tank (7) in the front mounts (9), making sure that it is secured also centrally in the mounts (8).
Connect the breather hose (6).

Connect the connector (4) and the fuel hose (5).
Start and tighten screws (3) of the fuel pump cover to the specified torque of 3 Nm ± 10%
Tighten fuel tank bracket screws (2) to the specified torque of 18 Nm ± 10%.
Fasten the tank by tightening rear screw (1) to the specified torque of 10 Nm ± 10%
Refit the front half-fairings (Refitting the fairings).
For Hyperstrada version only, position the expansion reservoir (11) and tighten the two screws (10) to a torque of
5Nm±10%.
Refitting the fuel tank flange
Duly grease the seal (3), position the flange (2), and refit by reversing the steps of the removal procedure.
Aim the fuel pump (2) as shown in the figure. Start screws (A).
Start stud bolts (B) with washer (C), paying attention to fitting direction.
The side to be started is the one without the groove (D).
Tighten the screws (A) and (B) to the specified torque of 5 Nm ± 10%, following a 1-2-3-4-5-6 sequence.
Removing the fuel tank flange

Remove the front half-fairings (Removing the fairings).
Loosen the six screws (A) and (B) securing the fuel tank flange.
Remove the fuel pump (2) from the fuel tank.
Collect the seal (3).

Loosen and remove the three retaining screws (6) and remove the thermistor (5).
Before refitting, carefully remove any deposits or scale from all parts.
Refitting the tank filler
Duly grease the new seal (4) and its seat on tank.
Position the complete filler cap (2) paying attention to fit the breather hose (3) in the relevant seats.
Start and tighten the seven securing screws (1) to a torque of 5Nm ± 10%.

Removing the fuel tank filler

Loosen and remove the seven securing screws (1) from the filler (2).
Collect fuel tank breather pipes (3) and seal (4).

Removing the fuel tank

Only on Hyperstrada, loosen the two screws (10) and move the rear shock absorber expansion reservoir (11),
taking care not to damage it.
Loosen and remove the rear securing screw (1) and collect the spacer (A).
Loosen and remove the retaining screws (2) of the fuel tank mounting bracket.
Loosen retaining screws (3) of the fuel pump cover.

Slightly lift the tank to facilitate the following operations.
Disconnect the fuel connector (4) and disconnect the fuel hose (5).
Slide out the breather hose (6), taking care not to damage it.
Remove the tank (7) by sliding it out from the central (8) and front (9) mounts.
Refitting the throttle body
If previously removed, refit the intake funnels (20) by tightening nuts (20) to the specified torque of 10 Nm (min.
9 Nm - max. 11 Nm), and screws (21) to the specified torque of 10Nm (min. 9 Nm - max. 11 Nm).
Fit the two throttle bodies (19) on the intake manifolds (20) by tightening them with screws (18) to the specified
torque of 10Nm±5%.
Working on both throttle bodies, connect the two connectors (17).

Working on front throttle body, secure the bracket of the Pick Up (15) connector by tightening screw (16) to the
specified torque of 10 Nm (min. 9 Nm - max. 11 Nm).
If previously removed, insert injectors (27) in their seat on the intake manifolds (20) having care not to damage O-
ring (28) lubricated with the specified product.
Important
In order to avoid damaging the O-rings of the injectors, fit the injectors into the unions fully home, keeping them
in line with their relevant seat.
Warning
Lubricate injector O-rings, paying attention not to soil the injector surfaces.
Working on both injectors, tighten the screw (14) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.
Connect connector (13) to the injector (27).
Refit the airbox (Refitting the air filters).

Removing the throttle body

Remove the airbox (Removing the air filters).
Working on both throttle bodies, disconnect the control connector of the throttle body (17).
Working on both throttle bodies, loosen and remove the securing screws (18).
Remove the throttle body (19).
Remove the intake manifolds (20) by removing the securing screws (21) and nuts (22).
Refitting the airbox
Bringing the airbox near, connect air (5) and Blow By (7) hoses by tightening them to ties (6) and connect the
breather pipe (8) with its relevant clamps.
Connect hoses (9) and (10) by tightening them with the two clamps (11) and (12).
Secure the airbox to the throttle bodies by tightening the two clamps (3) and (4).
Secure main wiring (1) with two ties (2).
Connect the connectors of the Map Sensor (A).
Removing the airbox

Disconnect the Map Sensor connectors (A).

Cut the two ties (2) and release the main wiring (1).
Loosen clamps (3) and (4).

Disconnect the two air hoses (5) by loosening ties (6) and blow-by hose (7).
Working on the left side, disconnect the two unions (9) and (10) by removing clamps (11) and (12).
Slightly lift the airbox and disconnect the draining hoses (8).
Remove the airbox.
Working on both intake manifolds, disconnect the two connectors (13) from the main wiring to the injectors.
Working on both intake manifolds, loosen and remove the screw securing the injector (14) and remove the
injector.
Working on the front manifold, loosen screw (15) and remove Pick Up (16).
Refitting the secondary air system
Fit horizontal head (8) and vertical head (6) hoses, securing them with the relevant clamps (7) and (5).
Connect the hoses to the actuator as shown, tightening the relevant clamps (2).
Connect the connector (1).
Check the hose correct position on the vehicle.
Make sure references (E) on hoses and actuator are aligned.
If removed, reassemble secondary air system valves applying the same procedure for both of them, as described.
Position the spark arrestor sheet (9) paying attention to the installation direction: the chamfered side (A) must be
positioned on the widest union angle (B).
Fit the reed valve (10) on secondary valve cover (11), taking care that profile (C) matches the seat (D) one on the
angle featuring more unions.
Tighten the two screws (12) to a torque of 6Nm (Min. 5Nm. - Max. 7Nm).
Refit the airbox (Refitting the air filters).

Removing the secondary air system

Remove the airbox (Removing the air filters).
Disconnect the connector (1) from actuator.

Slide out horizontal and vertical head (4) clamps (2) and hoses (3).
Slide out clamp (5) and remove the air hoses (6) from the vertical head.
Repeat the operation on the horizontal head, sliding out clamp (7) and removing hose (8).
Refitting the air filters
Fit the filter (5) to the support (6) making sure that the marks are facing outwards.
Fit the filter with support inside the filter cover (7), in such a way that the thread (8) comes out from the cover.
Fasten the filter by securing the ring nut (9) to the specified torque of 6Nm±10%.
Fit the cover (2) inside the airbox (3) by tightening screws (1) to the specified torque of 2Nm±10%.
Make sure that the seal is correctly fitted.

Removing the air filters

Remove the airbox.
Loosen and remove the five retaining screws (1) and remove the cover (2) from the airbox (3).
Loosen the ring nut (4) and remove the filter (5).
Refitting the exhaust system
Fit the vertical exhaust manifold (14) on the vertical cylinder head with the flange (13).
The rounded side must face the exhaust.
Tighten the securing nuts (11) to the specified torque of 10 Nm±10% by using the special tool 887134198.
Follow the same procedure for the vertical exhaust pipe (14).
Tighten the oxygen sensors (9) and (10) to the specified torque of 25Nm±5%.
Fit the central exhaust pipe (8) starting screw (7).
Fit the two retaining springs (6).
Tighten the two retaining screws (7) to the specified torque of 22Nm±10%.
Position the lower high washers (17), the heat guard (5), the upper low washers (16) and tighten screws (4) to the
specified torque of 8Nm±10%.
Fit control cable (3) in plate (C).
Turn the pulley (B) of the exhaust valve to make the control cable entry easier (3).
Secure the cable with circlip (1).

Secure the pulley guard (A) by tightening screws (2) to the specified torque of 10 Nm ± 10%.
Removing the exhaust system
Remove the silencer (Removing the silencer).

Remove the oil cooler (Removing the lubrication system).
Remove guard (A) by loosening the two retaining screws (2).

Remove circlip (1).
Turn the pulley (B) of the exhaust valve to facilitate the control cable exit (3).
Slide out from the pulley (B) the control cable (3).
Release control cable (3) from plate (C).
Loosen the retaining screws (4) and remove the heat guard (5), collecting the upper low washers (16) and the
lower high washers (17).
Remove the two retaining springs (6).
Working on the right side of the vehicle, loosen and remove screw (7).
Remove the exhaust pipe (8).
Loosen and remove the lambda sensor of the horizontal cylinder (9) and the vertical cylinder (10).
Using tool 887134198 loosen and remove the three retaining nuts (11) and remove the vertical manifold (14)
with the flange (13).
Repeat the operation for the horizontal cylinder manifold (15).
Refitting the silencer
If previously removed, refit the bracket (5) on the silencer as shown in the figure.
Position the two washers (7) and tighten the two screws (6) to a torque of 22Nm±10%.
Before fitting the silencer, check the seal integrity.

If it is worn or damaged, replace it with a new one.
Upon fitting make sure that the two edges of the seal are centred on the welding, as shown in the figure.
Fit the silencer in the exhaust and tighten screw (2) to the specified torque of 22Nm±10%.
Tighten clamp (1) to the specified torque of 25Nm±10%.

If the heat guard (8) has been removed, position spacers (12) and lower aramid washers (11) on the clips.
Then position the heat guard (8) and the upper aramid washers (10).
Tighten the screws (9) to a torque of 8Nm±10%.
If removed, reassemble the horizontal cylinder heat guard (12) positioning the components as listed:
- position the spacers (16);

- position the lower aramid washers (15);
- position the heat guard (17);
- position the upper aramid washers (14);
- tighten the two screws (13) to a torque of 8Nm±10%
Refit the oil cooler (Refitting the lubrication system).
Removing the silencer
Loosen the clamp (1).
Loosen screw (2) securing silencer to footpeg holder plate (3) and collect the bushing (4).
Remove the silencer.
If necessary, separate the bracket (5) from the silencer, loosen the two screws (6) and recover the two washers
(7).
If necessary, remove the heat guard cover (8), loosen screws (9) and collect the upper aramid washers (10).
Slide the heat guard (8) out and collect lower aramid washers (11) and spacers (12).
Refitting the Canister filter
If removed, position the canister bracket (9) on the vehicle and tighten the screw (10) to the engine to a torque of
10Nm±10% and the screw (11).
If removed, position the canister cover (12) and tighten the two screws (13) after having positioned the washers
(14).
Fit canister filter from the top. It must be fitted into plate (8) guides (A).
Position hoses and removed components.
1 Vapour release/tank breather hose

2 canister filter
3 Purge valve
4 vertical head intake duct
5 horizontal head intake duct
6 Filtered air outlet hose
Duly restore removed ties (A), (B), (C), (D), (E), (F), (G), (H), (I), (J).
To avoid malfunctions or damages, pay attention to the correct position of the hoses.
1. Vapour release/tank breather hose
2. canister filter
3. Purge valve
4. vertical head intake duct
5. horizontal head intake duct
15 - "T"-shaped union pipe-vertical intake manifold (5). In particular:
- still air pipe (6) in hose grommet (X);
- the canister pipe (15) must pass between vertical (16) and horizontal (17) injector pipes.

Removing the canister filter
Release the hose from cable ring (X).
Slide the canister filter upwards making it slide on guides (A) of plate (8).
Then, if necessary, remove canister cover (12), by loosening the screws (13) and collecting the lower washers
(14).
Remove ties (A), (B), (C), (D), (E), (F), (G), (H), (I), (J), so as to remove canister unit components and hoses.
Canister filter system
The canister filter is a system that collects the fuel vapours released by the fuel tank.
This filter is positioned along the tank breather tube and must keep the fuel vapours when the vehicle is not
moving.
To maintain the efficiency of the active carbons, the system is active while the engine is ON. The vacuum
generated in the intake manifolds makes fresh air flow through the canister filter and clean it.
The vapours generated while riding are conveyed to the intake system. To prevent the mixture from getting too
rich, the pipe has a purge valve that is opened and closed according to the riding conditions.
PARKED BIKE AND CLOSED PURGE VALVE

In this condition the vapours released by the tank by means of pipe (1) reach the canister filter (2). The Purge
valve (3) remains closed.
Filtered air flows out of pipe (6).
MOVING BIKE AND OPEN PURGE VALVE

In this condition air flows in pipe (1) to ventilate the tank. The Purge valve (3) is open and so the fuel vapours
coming from the canister filter (2) are sucked by pipes (4) and (5).
Fresh air from outside enters from pipe (6).
MOVING BIKE AND CLOSED PURGE VALVE
In this condition air flows in pipe (1) to ventilate the tank. The Purge valve (3) is closed and so there is not vapour
passage through pipes (4) and (5).
Fresh air from outside enters from pipe (6).
Refitting the engine
Position the complete engine block inside the front end still fixed to frame and subframe.
Apply the indicated product on flanged nuts (4) and start them on the frame LH side, on engine upper supporting
screws (3) (RH side).
Tighten nuts (4) to a torque of 60Nm ± 5%.
Place the swinging arm on the engine block with suitable shims (A).
Arrange the snap rings (B) and, after having applied the indicated product on pin (1), working on the left side, fully
insert the swingarm shaft (1) to fix the swinging arm to the engine block.
Check that clamp (2) special screw on the RH side of the swinging arm has been properly positioned, i.e. its
reference points match the reference on the swinging arm.
Position the protection plugs from the frame tubes near the engine pivot points.
Refit the previously removed components.
Refit the secondary air system (Refitting the secondary air system).
Refit the rear shock absorber (Refitting the rear suspension, Hypermotard) (Refit the rear suspension, Hypermotard SP)
(Refitting the rear suspension, Hyperstrada).
Refit the rear braking system and the fluid level inside it (Changing the fluid in the rear brake system); bleed the ABS
system (Bleeding of the ABS hydraulic system).
Restore the correct loop of hoses/wirings (Routing wiring harnesses / hoses).
Refit centre stand (Refitting the centre stand) (HYPERSTRADA version ONLY).
Refit the side stand (Refitting the side stand).
Refit the front sprocket (Refitting the front sprocket).
Refit the clutch pushrod cable on the clutch cover (Refitting the clutch cover).
Refit the gear shift (Refitting the gear shift).
Refit the canister system (Refitting the canister filter).
Connect the starter motor/solenoid starter cable (Routing of wiring on frame).
Refit the cooling system hoses and unions on the engine block (Refitting the cooling system hoses and unions).
Fill the cooling system (Changing the coolant).
Refit the lubrication system (Refitting the lubrication system).
Connect the rear oil pressure sensor to the main wiring (Routing of wiring on frame).
Fill the lubrication system (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Refit the footpegs (Refitting the footpegs).
Refit the complete exhaust system (Refitting the exhaust system) and the silencer (Refitting the silencer).
Connect the cables to the coils.
Refit the supply system and the injectors on the intake manifolds (Refitting the throttle body).
Refit the oil breather pipe, the blow-by pipe and the throttle body (Refitting the throttle body).
Refit the airbox and the air filter (Refitting the airbox).
Removing the engine
In order to remove engine you must first remove a series of other components from the motorcycle.
The removal procedures are described in the relative sections of this manual.
The list below indicates the components to be removed in a logical order.
This section describes only the operations to be carried out after having removed all the parts indicated in the list.

Remove the airbox, the throttle body, the blow by and the oil breather pipe (Removing the airbox).
Remove the supply system and the injectors from the intake manifolds (Removing the throttle body).
Disconnect the cables from the coils.
Remove the footpegs (Removing the footpegs).
Remove the silencer (Removing the silencer) and the complete exhaust system (Removing the exhaust system).
Drain the lubrication system (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Disconnect the rear oil pressure sensor from the main wiring (Routing of wiring on frame).
Remove the lubrication system (Removing the lubrication system).
Remove the cooling system hoses and unions from the engine block (Removing cooling system hoses and unions).
Disconnect the starter motor/solenoid starter cable (Routing of wiring on frame).
Remove the canister system (Removing the canister filter).
Remove the gear shift (Removing the gear shift).
Remove the clutch pushrod cable from the clutch cover (Removing the clutch cover).
Remove the front sprocket (Removing the front sprocket).
Remove the side stand (Removing the side stand).
Remove centre stand (Removing the centre stand) (HYPERSTRADA version ONLY).
Disconnect the wiring connectors on the engine block (Routing of wiring on frame).
Remove the secondary air system (Removing the secondary air system).
Warning
Properly support frame, subframe and engine.
Remove the rear shock absorber (Removing the rear shock absorber, Hypermotard) (Removing the rear shock absorber,
Hypermotard SP) (Removing the rear shock absorber, Hyperstrada).
Empty the rear brake system (Changing the fluid in the rear brake system) and release the rear hoses (Routing wiring
harnesses / hoses).
Slide the swingarm shaft (1) out and collect inner spacers (A) and outer snap rings (B).
Remove the vehicle rear end, still fixed to the swinging arm.
Remove the protection plugs from the frame tubes near the engine pivot points.
Working on the swinging arm right side, loosen screw (2).

Working on the vehicle right side, loosen the two special screws (3) securing frame to engine, collecting the
relevant nuts (4) on the left side.
Then slide the engine out from the front end, still assembled to the rear subframe.
Reassembling the oil pump
Insert pin (15) inside pump shaft (13).

Insert inner rotor lobe (14) fully home inside pin (15), then centre pin inside groove (A).
Fit pump shaft (13) working on oil pump cover (6) inner side.
Fit shim (12) and snap ring (11), inserting it inside groove (B).
Fit by-pass valve (10), spring (9) and tighten plug (8) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm – Max. 11 Nm), after
applying the indicated threadlocker.
Disassembling the oil pump
Remove the plug (8) and extract the spring (9) and by-pass valve (10).
Remove circlip (11) and collect shim (12).
Then, working on cover (6) inner side, slide out pump shaft (13) and, after having collected inner rotor lobe (14),
slide out pin (15) as well.
Collect the two reference pins (16) present on oil pump cover (6).
Check the conditions of the removed components.
Refitting the oil pump
After having lubricated it with the indicated product on the mating surface between crankcase and inner rotor lobe,
fit oil pump outer rotor lobe (7) on crankcase, with reference (C) visible.
Check that the two reference pins (16) are present on crankcase.
Lubricate inner rotor lobe (14) with the indicated product.
Fit the assembled oil pump cover assembly (6) (Reassembling the oil pump) and centre it following the mandatory
positions given by:
- crankshaft seat (D) on crankcase;

- inner rotor lobe with outer rotor lobe;
- reference pins (16).
Start the screws (5a) and (5b) that retain the pump cover, and tighten them to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm -
Max. 11 Nm).
Insert rotation pin (4) inside pump shaft.
Fit gear (3) by inserting pin (4) inside its seat (E).
Fit shim (2) and snap ring (1) inside shaft.
Refit the primary drive gear (Refitting the primary drive gear and checking backlash).
Refit the clutch housing, clutch plate pack and hub unit (Refitting the clutch).
Refit the clutch cover (A) (Refitting the clutch cover).
Fill the lubrication system with oil (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Removing the oil pump
Empty the lubrication system (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Remove the clutch cover (A) (Removing the clutch cover).
Remove the hub, clutch plate pack and clutch housing unit (B) (Removing the clutch).
Remove the primary drive gear (C) (Removing the primary drive gear).
Remove the snap ring (1) and shim (2).

Slide out oil pump gear (3) and collect rotation pin (4).
Loosen the seven screws (5a) and screw (5b), then remove the complete oil pump cover (6).
Remove oil pump outer rotor lobe (7) from crankcase.
Refitting the lubrication system
Before fitting hoses check the presence of O-rings (9) on both ends and lubricate them with engine oil.
If nipples (7) have been removed from cooler, fit a seal (8) on each nipple (7) and apply specified threadlocker on
the cooler side threads.
Note
Washers must be fitted on the side featuring nipples with smaller diameter and oriented with the sharp edge facing
the cooler.
Start nipples (7) on oil cooler (4) and tighten them to 23Nm±10%.
Lubricate the nipple threads (7) with the specified product.
Attach the hose ends to the nipples (7) and finger-tighten the hose nuts (6) on the nipples.
Tighten nuts (6) to a torque of 18Nm ± 5 %.
Connect the pressure switch connector (5).
If pressure switch (10) has been previously removed, lubricate its thread with engine oil and start it on the cooler.
Tighten pressure switch (10) to a torque of 24 Nm ± 10 %.
Make sure that on both sides of the cooler there are vibration damping pads (11).
Position the oil cooler (4) as shown, working on the left side of the bracket (12).
Position the spacer (2) on the oil cooler right connection and the bushing (3) on the left connection.
Start screws (1) and tighten them to a torque of 6Nm±10% after having applied the specified product.
If removed, position the upper washers (13) and fasten the bracket (12) to the engine, tightening the two screws
(14) to a torque of 10Nm±10%.
Fill the system (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Inspecting the oil cooler
Visually inspect the cooler.

Replace it at any sign of damage or leaks (Refitting the lubrication system).
Removing the lubrication system
Drain the system (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Loosen the two screws (1) and collect:
- on the right side of the vehicle, the spacer (2);
- on the left side of the vehicle, the bushing (3).
Slide the oil cooler (4) towards the vehicle right side.
Disconnect the pressure switch (5).

Loosen nuts (6) of oil pipes from nipples (7) and disconnect them from the oil cooler.
Loosen nipples (7) from oil cooler (4) and collect seals (8).
Refitting the water tank
Refit water tank (5).
Tighten screws (4) retaining water tank (5) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%.

Position hose (2) on radiator plug (3) and secure the hose with clamp (1).
Refit the right side fairing (Refitting the fairings).

Removing the water tank
Warning
This operation must be performed with cold engine. Attempting to change the coolant with the engine hot could
lead to burns from hot coolant or scalding steam.
Empty the cooling system (Changing the coolant).

Remove the RH side fairing (Removing the fairings).
Loosen clamp (1) and slide hose (2) out of radiator (3).
Loosen retaining screws (4) on water tank (5).

Move water tank (5) outwards.
Refitting the cooling system hoses and unions
If previously removed, place union (10) on the vertical head.

If screws (9) are not new, apply specified threadlocker to screws (9).
Tighten the screws (9) to a torque of 6 Nm (Min. 5 Nm. - Max. 7 Nm).
If previously removed, place union (8) on the horizontal head.

If screws (7) are not new, apply specified threadlocker to screws (7).
Connect water temperature sensor (6) to the main wiring.
Refit radiator / thermostat hose (4) on the motorcycle. Fasten the hose to the horizontal head by tightening clip (5)
to a torque of 0.6 Nm ± 10%.
Fix hose (4) on the horizontal head union by means of clip (1). Tighten clip (1) to a torque of 2.5 Nm ± 10%.
Fasten hose (4) to water radiator (3) by tightening clip (1) to a torque of 2.5 Nm ± 10%.
Fit hose (2) on water radiator (3) by tightening clip (1) to a torque of 2.5 Nm ± 10%.
Refit the LH fairing (Refitting the fairings).
Removing the cooling system hoses and unions

Remove the LH fairing (Removing the fairings).
Loosen clamps (1) retaining the water radiator (3) hose (2) to the pump and the fixing clamps of the
radiator/thermostat hose (4) to the thermostat.
Loosen clip (5) of radiator / thermostat hose (4) to the horizontal head.
If necessary, disconnect sensor (6) from main wiring harness.

Loosen the screws (7) and remove union (8).
If necessary, loosen the screws (9) and remove union (10).
Fitting the radiator
Make sure that spacers (11) for screws (6) are fitted on radiator (5).
Place water radiator (5) on the vehicle.
Start screws (6) securing water radiator (5) to the frame.

Start screw (7) that retains bracket (8) of radiator (5) to the horizontal head.
Tighten the screw (7) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 5 %.
Connect electric fan harness (A) to main wiring.
Connect hose (10) to the radiator and fix it with clip (9).
Position hoses (4) on radiator (5) and fix them with clips (3). Tighten clips (3) to a torque of 2.5 Nm ± 10%.
Position radiator protections (2) and fix them with screws (1).
Refit the LH fairing (Refitting the fairings).
Replacing the electric fan
Loosen the three screws (12) securing the electric fan (13) to radiator (5).
Repeat the same procedure for the other electric fan (14).
Upon refitting, tighten screws (12) to a torque of 1.5 Nm ± 10%.
Removing the radiator
Warning
This operation must be performed with cold engine. Failure to observe the above recommendation may lead to
coolant or hot vapour leakage with possible consequent severe burns.

Remove the LH fairing (Removing the fairings).
Undo screws (1) and protections (2) from the radiator.
Loosen clamps (3) retaining pipes (4) to water radiator (5).

Remove clamp (9) to slide hose (10) out of the radiator.
Disconnect electric fan harness (A) from main wiring.

Loosen screws (6) securing water radiator (5) to the frame.
Loosen screw (7) that retains bracket (8) of radiator (5) to the horizontal head.
Remove radiator (5).
Refitting the water pump
Clean the seat in the cover, any parts you intend to reuse, and the impeller shaft. Lubricate with engine oil and
refit as follows.
Using the pad (C) part no. 88713.0869 to fit the new mechanic seal (9) on the impeller shaft.
Apply the indicated product for rubber inside the seal (9).
Apply the specified product to generator cover (4).
Working on cover internal side, insert the inner spacer (15) with the sharp edge (D) outwards.
Using a suitable drift working on the outer ring, drive bearing (13) - with the shielded side (E) facing the cover -
fully home on the spacer (15).
Fit the other bearing (12), driving it fully home on bearing (13).
Apply the specified product to screws (10).
Fit the two screws (10) with washer (11), and tighten to a torque of 10Nm (Min. 9Nm - Max.11Nm).
Turn the cover upside-down and, using pad (F) part no. 88713.0870, fit the counter-washer (14) fully home in
the generator cover.
The gasket (14) must be positioned so that the white side is facing upwards.
Facilitate insertion of the indicated gasket (14) by applying the indicated product.
Fit the impeller shaft (6) with the previously installed mechanical seal (9).
Install ring (7) in the suitable groove on the impeller shaft.
Turn the impeller (6) and make sure that it can rotate freely, without excessive resistance.
Clean the mating surface thoroughly on the pump cover and on the generator cover.
Clean and degrease the contact surface of the water pump cover (3) with a dry cloth and check that there are no
residues on the surface.
Apply on water pump cover (3) a bead of sealing compound as shown in the figure.
Fit centring dowels (5) and position the cover (3) on the generator cover.
Start screws (1).
Position the lower washers and start screws (2).
Tighten the screws to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm), following the tightening sequence shown in
the figure.
After tightening, remove any excess of threadlocker.
Tighten the screws (1) and (2) to a torque of 13.5Nm (Min. 12.5Nm - Max. 14.5Nm), following the indicated
tightening sequence.
After tightening, remove any excessive sealing compound.
If removed, apply the indicated product and tighten the water intake union (A) and the delivery one (B) to a torque
of 25Nm (Min. 23Nm - Max. 27Nm).
Reposition water pipes, tightening and orienting the ties as indicated.

Fit the cooling system hoses on the water pump cover (Refitting cooling system hoses and unions).
Fit the half-fairings (Refitting the fairings).
Removing the water pump

Remove the cooling system hoses from the water pump cover (Removing cooling system hoses and unions).
Note
Loosen the ties.
Loosen and remove screws (1) and (2) securing the water pump cover (3) to the generator cover (4).
Remove the water pump cover (3) and collect dowels (5).
Clean the pump housing from any coolant scale.
Check the bearing wear by turning the impeller shaft (6); in case of excessive clearance, it is necessary to replace
them as follows.
Remove the snap ring (7) from crankcase inner side.
Slide out the impeller (6) with the sealing ring (9) from the outside.
Collect the seal (14).
Undo and remove the screws (10) with the washer (11).
Working from the impeller side, use a suitable drift to press on the inner ring of end bearing (12) until it can be
extracted from the cover.
Use the same technique to remove the other bearing (13).
Remove the inner spacer (15).
Check the condition of the mechanical seal components (9) and of the counter-washer (14): there should be no
signs of deformation, cracking, or excessive wear.
In case of damage, both components must be replaced.
Checking the engine timing

Remove the airbox, the blow by and the oil breather pipe (Removing the airbox).
Remove the supply system and the injectors from the intake manifolds and throttle body (Removing the throttle body).
Remove the timing belt covers (Removing the timing belt external covers).
Note
closed and the camshafts come in rest position and, therefore, free to rotate.
Install tool part no. 88713.2087 (A) in the spark plug bore to determine the piston TDC, the gauges (B) on tool
part no. 88765.1690 and the timing check tool (C) part no. 88765.1657 (degree wheel with graduated disk).
Set the opening valve clearance to zero when the camshafts are in rest position by fitting a feeler gauge, of
suitable thickness, between the upper rocker arm and the opening shim.
Check that in this condition the camshaft can rotate. If it moves stiffly, use a thinner feeler gauge.
In this condition, with the piston of the horizontal cylinder at TDC with the valves fully closed as confirmed by the
reading on gauge (A), set the gauges (B) to zero.
Tension the belts to the value indicated below.
Turn the degree wheel (C) counter clockwise until the gauge dial (B), on the exhaust side, shows a lift of 1 mm.
Check that the value of the angular displacement read on the degree wheel (C) is the specified one (Timing
system/Valves).
Continue to rotate in the same direction until you obtain a lift of 1 mm on the intake side.
Check the angular value on the degree wheel.
Continue to rotate until you obtain an intake valve lift of 1 mm on the gauge (B), during closure of the valve for
the compression stroke.
Check the angular value with the prescribed one (Timing system/Valves).
Continue to rotate the degree wheel (C) counter clockwise until you obtain a lift of 1 mm of the exhaust valve,
when opening or closing the valve.
Check again the angular value with the prescribed one (Timing system/Valves).
Repeat the procedure for the vertical cylinder.
A tolerance of ±3° is allowed in the values detected with the described procedure compared to the specified ones.
Remove the installed tools to check timing. Then tension the belts to the operation value indicated below.
In case of values different from the described ones, loosen the fastening screws (D) of the timing belt rollers and
correct the value detected by turning the ring nut of the timing shaft with the supplied wrench (E) no.
88713.1806.
Then lock the three screws (D) securing the timing system pulley to a torque of 10Nm (Min. 9Nm-Max.11Nm) and
mark the new position on the components.
Belt tensioning values
Adjusting the belt tension
Assembly value (new Recovery value (used

Reference
belt) belt)
110±5 Hz (horizontal) 90±5 Hz (horizontal)

DDS
110±5 Hz (vertical) 90±5 Hz (vertical)
Cold belt tension

Cold min. limit value 70 Hz
adjustment
HORIZONTAL VERTICAL
Tension value accepted upon engine
overhaul
70≥Hz
Timing diagram
Opening 4° B.T.D.C.
Intake
Timing diagram with valve clearance of 1 mm
Opening 58° B.B.D.C.
Exhaust
Exhaust valve diameter 28.8 mm
Refit the timing belt covers (Refitting the timing belt external covers).
Refit the horizontal head exhaust pipe (Refitting the exhaust system).
Refit the supply system and the injectors from the intake manifolds and throttle body (Refitting the throttle body).
Refit the airbox, the blow by and the oil breather pipe (Refitting the airbox).
Checking valve lift

Note
closed and the camshafts come in rest position and, therefore, free to rotate; check the valve lift.
Position the tool (G) part no. 88765.1690 on the head: support (S) of tool no. 88765.1690 with the intake
indication must be positioned on the exhaust side whereas support (T) of tool no. 88765.1690 with the exhaust
indication must be positioned on the intake side.
Seat the plate (E) and tighten the screws (F).
Set the opening valve clearance to zero when the camshafts are in rest position by fitting a feeler gauge, of
suitable thickness, between the upper rocker arm and the opening shim.
Lock dial gauge (V) into the seat support (T) and position probe (R) against the face of the closing shim.
Set the dial gauge to zero when the valve is fully closed.
Rotate the intake camshaft so as to allow the intake valves to lift fully.
Check on the dial gauge that the measured value corresponds to the prescribed one.
Repeat the same operation for the exhaust valves, using dial gauge (V) in support seat (S) and probe (U).
Specified values:
Valve lift
Intake 11.3 mm
Valve lift - valve clearance of 0 mm
Exhaust 9.6 mm
Timing diagram
Opening 4° B.T.D.C.
Intake
Timing diagram with valve clearance of 1 mm
Opening 58° B.B.D.C.
Exhaust
Exhaust valve diameter 28.8 mm

Refit the supply system and the injectors from the intake manifolds (Refitting the throttle body).
Checking and adjusting the valve clearance

Note
closed and the camshafts come in rest position and, therefore, free to rotate; check the valve clearance on the
cylinder head you are working on.
Important
Hold the feeler gauge at a distance of at least 4-5 cm from the point of measurement between cam and rocker
arm.
Checking the opening clearance

Using a feeler gauge (A), check the clearance between the opening rocker arm (1) and the lowest point of the
camshaft lobe (2), taking care not to compress the rocker arm return spring. The value must be within the
prescribed ones.
If not so, remove the opening shim (3) and replace it with one of suitable height to obtain the prescribed
clearance.
Important
Opening rocker arm shims measuring 1.80 to 3.90 are available as spare parts: the size is punched on the shim.
Checking the closing clearance
Using a feeler gauge (A), check the clearance between the closing rocker arm (4) sliding shoe and the highest
point of the camshaft lobe (5).
The value must be within the prescribed ones.
If not so, remove the closing shim and replace it with one of suitable height to obtain the prescribed clearance.
Note
Closing rocker arm shims measuring 2.2 to 4.5 are available as spare parts: the size is punched on the shim.
Specified values:
Assembly value Check value every 24.000 Km

Refit the supply system and the injectors from the intake manifolds (Refitting the throttle body).
Refitting the timing outer covers
Position central belt cover (2) on the vertical head by inserting it from below.
Position vertical belt cover (3) on the vertical head by inserting it from below.
Position horizontal belt cover (4) on the horizontal head by inserting it from above.
Tighten screws (1) that retain covers (2), (3) and (4) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9Nm – Max. 11 Nm).
Note
If the above operations have been carried out with the engine installed in the frame, refit the previously removed
parts.
Refit the vertical head exhaust pipe (D) (Refitting the exhaust system).
Refit the fuel tank (C) (Refitting the fuel tank).
Refit the side fairings (B) (Refitting the fairings).
Refit the seat (A) (Refitting the seat).
Refitting the mobile tensioner/timing belt
Note
The figures show an engine block removed from the frame, but the operation can also be performed with engine on
the frame.
Loosen the screws (6) securing the timing side belt rollers.
Make sure that the reference points on the timing layshaft pulley matches those on the clutch cover.
Fit tool (B) part no. 88713.2011 on the generator cover to prevent the rotation of the crankshaft and block it with
the suitable pin. Then tighten the screw of the tool.
Insert tools (A) part no. 88765.1623 on the pulleys to block their rotation.
Use the tool to insert pins (C) in seats (D) of the camshafts.
To install the vertical head belt (5) let it adhere against the head pulleys, pass it behind the fixed tensioner (7) and
then follow the same procedure to fit belt (5) of the horizontal piston/cylinder.
Note
If the used belts are to be refitted, position them in their original direction of rotation and on their original cylinder.
Fit the mobile tensioner (3) and the washer (2) on the cylinder head pin.
Apply recommended grease on mobile tensioner pin threads, and on nut (1) mating surface.
Start the nut (1).
Check the tensioning value and adjust the vertical head and horizontal head belt.
When the desired voltage is reached, make sure that nuts (1) securing the mobile tensioners (3) are tightened to a
torque of 25 Nm (Min. 22 Nm - Max. 28 Nm) and the head belt roller screws (6) are tightened to a torque of 10
Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm).
Remove the pulley and crankshaft blocking tools.
Note
If the above operations have been carried out with the engine installed in the frame, refit the previously removed
parts.
Refit the external timing belt covers (Refitting the timing belt external covers).
Assembly value (new Recovery value (used

Reference
belt) belt)
110±5 Hz (horizontal) 80±5 Hz (horizontal)

DDS
110±5 Hz (vertical) 80±5 Hz (vertical)
Cold min. limit value 70 Hz
Cold belt tension

HORIZONTAL VERTICAL
adjustment
Tension (Hz) ±5 Tension (Hz) ±5

Tension value accepted upon engine
overhaul
Min. 80 Min. 88
Max. 100 Max. 100

Refitting the cylinder head pulley/fixed tensioner
Make sure that tab (B) is properly installed in the relevant seat of each camshaft and that tab seat (D) is in proper
conditions.
Fit belt roller (4) on camshaft (5), inserting key (B) in the pulley slot (C).
Apply the recommended grease to the threads of the camshaft.
Carry out the same operations on the other camshaft.
Insert tool (A) part no. 88713.1806 in the pulleys to block its rotation.
Apply the recommended grease to the mating face of the ring nut (3).
Fit the ring nut (3).
Carry out the same operations on the other camshaft.
Important
Always fit new nuts on reassembly.
Using the bush supplied with tool (D) part no. 88713.1806, together with a torque wrench, lock the ring nuts (3)
of pulleys (4) to a torque of 71 Nm (Min. 64 Nm - Max. 78 Nm).
Insert fixed tensioners (2), with the relevant bearings, in the head pins, apply specified threadlocker to screws (1)
and tighten them to a torque of 50 Nm (Min. 45 Nm - Max. 55 Nm).
Undo the locking screws (6) of the pulleys, by turning them counter clockwise by 90° ± 5°.
Check that the pulleys have no end float and can rotate freely at all points along the full length of the slots.
Refit the mobile tensioners and timing belts (Refitting the mobile tensioner/timing belt).
Reassembling the pulleys/camshafts
Fit the pulley (4) on the flange (8), aligning the timing pulley mark (D) with the flange timing mark (E).
Install the washer (7) up against the pulley, aligning the timing notch (F) with the pulley and flange timing marks.
Insert the three screws (6) in the threaded holes (G) of the flange.
Tighten the screws (6) to a tightening torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm. - Max. 11 Nm).
Refit the pulleys on the piston-cylinder assemblies (Refitting the cylinder head pulley/fixed tensioner).
Refitting the tensioner pins
Apply specified threadlocker on the bigger thread of mobile tensioner pins (2).
As an alternative to the pre-applied Loctite, apply specified threadlocker on the bigger thread of fixed tensioner
pins (1).
Insert the tensioner pins (1) and (2) on the heads and tighten them with tool (A) part no. 88713.1821.
Tighten tensioner pins (1) to a torque of 45 Nm (Min. 40 Nm – Max. 50 Nm).
Tighten tensioner pins (2) to a torque of 50 Nm (Min. 45 Nm – Max. 55 Nm).
Refit the pulleys on the piston-cylinder assemblies (Refitting the cylinder head pulley/fixed tensioner).
Refitting the timing layshaft pulleys
In order to guide the stop snap ring (18) in the seat on the timing layshaft, use the two components of tool (B)
part no. 88713.2834: one is positioned on the timing layshaft so that the ring does not damage the shaft; the
other component of the tool is used to position the ring on the shaft.
When ring (18) is in the correct position on the shaft, remove the tool.
Install the inner spacer (16) on the timing layshaft, taking care to match the key notch.
Fit the first key (17) on the timing layshaft.
Locate the inner pulley (15).
Refit the second key (17) and the washer (14).
Locate the outer pulley (12).

Position the spacer (11).
Smear the ring nut (10) with specified grease and start it.
Important
To prevent the ring nuts from loosening and consequent serious engine damage, always use new self-locking ring
nuts on all the timing belt rollers.
Use tool part no. 88713.1805 to lock timing belt roller rotation and tighten self-locking ring nut to a torque of 71
Nm (Min. 64 Nm - Max. 78 Nm) using the insert supplied with the wrench together with a torque wrench.
Removing the timing layshaft pulleys
Note
To work with the engine block installed in the frame it is necessary to remove the components indicated below.
Remove the external belt covers (Removing the timing belt external covers).
Remove the mobile tensioners and timing belts (Removing the mobile tensioner/timing belt).
Using tool (A) part no. 88713.1805 block the rotation of the driving belt rollers on the crankcase.
Important
If this operation is carried out with the engine installed in the frame, block the driving belt rollers rotation using
tool part no. 88713.2011 fitted on generator cover
Loosen the ring nut (10) using the socket supplied with the tool.
Remove the ring nut (10), the spacer (11) and the outer pulley (12).
Remove the first key (13) from the timing layshaft.
Remove the spacer (14) and the inner pulley (15).
Remove the inner spacer (16) and second key (17) on the timing layshaft.
It is now possible to remove the snap ring (18) on the timing layshaft.
Disassembling pulleys/camshafts
Note
Remove the fixed tensioners from the piston-cylinder assemblies (Removing the cylinder head pulley/fixed tensioner).
Undo and remove the screws (6).

Slide off the washer (7).
Withdraw the camshaft pulley (4) from the spacer flange (8).
Removing the tensioner pins
Note
Remove the fixed tensioners from the piston-cylinder assemblies (Removing the cylinder head pulley/fixed tensioner).
Use tool (A) part no. 88713.1821 to remove tensioner pins (1) and (2) from the heads.
Removing the cylinder head pulley/fixed tensioner
Note
Undo screws (1) to remove the fixed tensioners (2) from the piston/cylinder assemblies.
Insert tool (A) part no. 88713.1806 in the pulleys to lock their rotation and use the supplied bush to loosen the
fixing ring nuts (3) of the pulleys.
Important
Upon reassembly, always use new ring nuts.
Remove the ring nuts (3) and the pulleys (4) from the camshafts.
Removing the mobile tensioner-timing belt
Note
Insert tool (A) part no. 88765.1623 on the belt rollers to lock rotation.
Loosen the nut (1) and remove the washer (2) and the mobile tensioner (3) from the pin (4) on the cylinder head.
Remove the timing belt (5) from the vertical head.
Important
If the belts are to be re-used, mark the direction of rotation with an arrow and also mark the piston-cylinder assy
they belong to.
Repeat the procedure for the other piston-cylinder assy.

Removing the timing belt covers
Note
Remove the seat (A) (Removing the seat).
Remove the side fairings (B) (Removing the fairings).
Remove the fuel tank (C) (Removing the fuel tank).
Remove the vertical head exhaust pipe (D) (Removing the exhaust system).
Warning
To remove the belt covers, follow the removal order indicated below.
Loosen screws (1) that retain the horizontal belt external cover (4) and remove it from the horizontal head by
sliding the cover downwards.
Loosen screws (1) that retain the vertical belt upper external cover (3) and remove it from the vertical head by
sliding it.
Loosen screws (1) that retain the belt central cover (2) and remove it from the vertical head by sliding it upwards.
Refitting the intake manifold and water union
Note
The described operations regard the horizontal cylinder head. For the vertical head, follow the same procedure.
Refitting the intake manifold

Apply the recommended threadlocker to the short thread (A) of stud bolt (1).
Screw the stud bolt in the flange lower hole and tighten it to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm).
Position intake manifold (2) on cylinder head (3) by centring stud bolt (1).
Fix the manifold by starting screws (4) and nut (5).
Tighten the screws and the nut to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm. - Max. 11 Nm).
Refitting the water union
Position gasket (8) on the union, paying attention to position the protrusion (B) in the groove (C).
Position the union (7) and tighten the two screws (6).
Refit the airbox (Refitting the airbox), the intake manifold injectors, the throttle body (Refitting the throttle body), the
blow-by and the oil breather pipe.
Removing the intake manifold and water union
Note
The described operations regard the horizontal cylinder head. For the vertical head, follow the same procedure.
Removing the intake manifold

Remove the airbox (Removing the airbox), the intake manifold injectors, the throttle body (Removing the throttle body),
the blow-by and the oil breather pipe.
Loosen screws (4) and nut (5) that retain the intake manifold (2) on cylinder head (3) with stud bolt (1).
Loosen stud bolt (1): the stud bolt thread (A) is the short one.
Removing the water union
If necessary, remove water unions in the same way on both heads.
After releasing the unions from ties and involved pipes (Removing the water pump), loosen the two screws (6).
Slide union (7) out and collect gasket (8).

Refitting the camshafts
Check that the camshafts (marked "VA" and "VS" for the vertical head and "OS" and "OA" for the horizontal head)
are clean and in good condition.
If the camshafts are not new, use emery cloth to remove signs of wear on the cam and support surfaces, working
on a flat surface.
Use specified lubricant (Molycote M55 Plus) both on the cylinder head and on supports (10) and (11), to lubricate
the seats of the camshafts (see green areas).
Fill tanks (A) with specified lubricant (Molycote M55 Plus).
Apply sealant (Three Bond 1215 sealing compound) at the four points (highlighted in red) of the support surface
(11) shown in red in the figure.
Clean off any excess of sealant.
Apply sealant only on the timing side support (11) and not on support (10).
Install the camshafts (16) and (17) in the cylinder head, and rotate them to distribute the lubricant evenly.
Check that the centring dowels (12) are present.
Pre-tighten screws (8) and special screws of caps (10) and (11) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm).
Note
Pre-tighten one cap at a time in the sequence indicated in the figure.
Then tighten screws (8) to a torque of 22.5 Nm (Min. 21 Nm - Max. 25 Nm).
Note
Tighten one cap at a time in the sequence indicated in the figure.
Remove any excess of sealant from between the cylinder head and the cap (11).
Turn the camshafts (16) and (17) by hand to check that they rotate freely.
Note
The first screw to be tightened must the one indicated in the figure (intake and timing side).
Important
Now, proceed checking the valve clearance.
Sealing rings
Before installing seal rings (15) make sure that the relevant seats (B) on the head are perfectly clean.
Remove any excess of previously applied lubricant.
Lubricate seats (B) with KLÜBERPLUS S 06/100 (or denatured alcohol).

Only in case the ring has not been previously lubricated, lubricate the internal diameter of seal rings (15) with Shell
Retinax LX2 grease (or alike), or lubricate the cap external diameter with engine oil (better if wrapping the cap in a
cloth soaked in engine oil).
Note
Always make sure that the cap, the seal rings and their seats are free from surface flaws (dents, scratches, etc.)
and dirt (dust, other solid residues).
Fit seal rings on camshafts (16) and (17) using tool (Z) 88713.2861.
Note
Once installed, the seal rings must be positioned as indicated. Clean any excess of lubricant with a clean cloth.
Cylinder head cover
Note
Some figures below show magnesium head cover, but the model described in the manual is equipped with
aluminium alloy covers.
Apply sealant (Three Bond 1215 sealing compound) at the four points (C) highlighted in red of the cylinder head
cover (5) as shown.
Fit the gaskets (6) and (7) on the cylinder head cover (5), as shown in the figure.
Cylinder head cover identification: the vertical head cover (5) has a tooth (A) on the left-hand side (exhaust side),
whereas cover (9) has a tooth (B) on the right-hand side (exhaust side).
Apply a bead (F) of 2 mm (max. 4 mm) of sealant (Three Bond 1215 sealing compound) on the four areas (D) of
head surface (E) (approximately in the middle of the cap machined surface, as indicated), by respecting the values
and position (G), i.e. 10 ÷ 11 mm from the cap edge.
Value (M) is approximately 19 mm.
Fit cover (5) with pre-fitted gasket on the head, as shown.

Centre the cover in the four fixing holes.
Fit O-rings (4) on screws (3).
Tighten the screws (3) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm), following the indicated sequence.
Thoroughly remove any excess of previously applied sealant between cylinder head and cover.
Valve clearance specified values:
Assembly value Check value every 24.000 Km
Refit the airbox (Refitting the airbox), the intake manifold injectors, the throttle body (Refitting the throttle body), the
blow-by and the oil breather pipe.
Check of the camshafts and supports
Check the cam contact surfaces for scratches, grooves, steps and waving.
Worn cams are frequently the cause of poor timing, which leads to loss of engine power.
Place the camshaft between two opposite centres and check the run-out on the areas indicated using two dial
gauges.
Service limit: 0.1 mm.
Visually inspect the camshaft tracks for scoring and abnormal wear.
If any of the above defects are found, the camshaft should be replaced.
If you find scoring or excessive wear, check the operation of the engine lubrication circuit.
Removing the camshafts

Remove spark plugs (Replacing the spark plugs).
Note
Some figures below show magnesium head cover, but the model described in the manual is equipped with
aluminium alloy covers.
Undo and remove the screws (3) and the O-rings (4) from the cylinder head covers.
Remove the cylinder head cover (5).
Remove gaskets (6) and (7) from the cylinder head cover (5).
Repeat the same procedure for the other head cover.
Undo the screws (8) securing the camshaft supports.
Withdraw the camshaft supports (10) and (11) straight out from the cylinder head, taking care not to damage the
machined faces and centring dowels (12).
Remove the exhaust side camshafts (13) and (14) and slide out sealing rings (15) positioned at their ends.
Repeat the same procedures for the other cylinder head.
Reassembling the cylinder head
The exhaust side can be recognised by the presence of three threaded holes (A) on the flange and a recess to fix
the secondary air cover (B).
The intake side can be identified by the presence of threaded holes (C) on the flange.
All the figures in this chapter refer to a vertical cylinder head.
Valve guide sealing rings

Position the cylinder head on the appropriate support 88713.2103.
Use denatured alcohol to lubricate the valve guide sealing rings (14) and insert them from the spring side onto tool
(L) no. 88713.2442.
Fit the end of the tool into the valve guide and use a hammer to tap the sealing rings (14) home into the valve
guides.
Reassembling the closing rocker arms
Check that the rocker arms are not scored or show signs of breakage in the area of contact with the camshaft and
shim.
The closing rocker arm shafts (17) feature a 10 mm diameter, whereas the opening rocker arm shafts (13) feature
a 9 mm diameter.
Using an M6 screw, position the closing rocker shaft (17) towards the exhaust side of the cylinder head.
Locate the spacer (18) on the shaft.
Place spring (16) on spacer (18), as shown in the figure, by engaging one end in the relevant seat on the cylinder
head.
Place the closing rocker arm (5) in its seat having care that the through hole is aligned with the closing rocker arm
shaft; then push the shaft fully home.
Proceed in a similar manner to install the closing rocker arm (6) with the spring (15).
Load the springs (16) and (15) on the closing rocker arms (5) and (6) respectively using the tool part no.
88713.2069.
Fit closing rocker arms (6) and (5), the relevant springs and the relevant shafts on the exhaust side as for the
intake side.
Note
Always install the closing rocker arms on the exhaust side before those on the intake side.
Warning
Take care not to damage the shoe of the closing rocker arm with the intake spring during assembly.
Refitting valves, closing shims and split rings

Carefully clean the two intake valve seats (D) and the two exhaust valve seats (E). Use engine oil to lubricate the
central part of the two intake valve (9) and of the two exhaust valve (10) stems.
Warning
Apply engine oil on the valve stems only in the indicated area, having care not to oil the groove.
Fit the valves in their seats on cylinder head, fully home.
Hold the closing rocker arm (5) pushed downwards and fit the closing shim (7) on the valve stem up to reach the
rocker arm. If using the old cylinder head, start by refitting the original shim.
Insert the new split rings (8) in the valve groove (T) and release the rocker arm to correctly position shim (7).
Turn the closing rocker arm (5), and compress the spring as much as possible while holding valve, shim and split
rings in the valve closed position.
Release the rocker arm with a quick movement, so that the split rings seat in the shim.
Repeat the procedure with the opposite valve and check that the top of the valve stem is aligned with the surface
of the shim (7); if it is not the case, repeat the split ring installation procedure.
Install the closing shims on the intake valves (9) using the method described above for the exhaust valves.
Refit the camshafts (Refitting the camshafts) to check the valve clearance when closed.
Refitting the opening shims and opening rocker arms

Using an M6 screw, position the opening rocker arm shaft (13) (diameter 9 mm).
Locate the opening rocker arm (3) and drive the shaft home.
Install the four rocker arms (3) as described above.
Raise the opening rocker arm (3) and install the opening shim (4) fully against the valve stem.
Release the rocker arm so that it rests against the shim.
Ensure the shim is correctly seated by lightly tapping the rocker arm shoe (G) with plastic mallet.
Refit the camshafts and check the valve clearance when open.
Insert the gaskets (12) on the opening and closing rocker arm shaft plugs (11), orienting them (preferably) with
the square edge side (T) facing the cylinder head.
Apply the recommended threadlocker on the plug (11) threads: apply the product on the first two plug threads,
spreading it for the half circumference (about 180°).
Tighten plugs to a torque of 15 Nm (Min. 14 Nm – max. 16 Nm).
Note
After tightening, remove any excess of product.
Refit the camshaft supports (Refitting the camshafts).
Refit the timing pulleys (Refitting the timing layshaft pulley).
Refit the coils.
Refit the complete head (Refitting the cylinder heads).
Refitting the cylinder heads
Warning
To prevent oil leaks in the contact area between cylinders and crankcase, each time the head is removed, cylinder
and piston must be removed as well to clean the mating faces of crankcase and cylinder and restore the worn
gaskets and O-rings and apply again sealing compound.
Before fitting the head, check that the gasket is fitted on the mating surface between head and cylinder.
When fitting the gasket, side (L) with the stamped part no. (M) must be in contact with the cylinder head.
Lower the cylinder head carefully over the stud bolts. Take care not to damage the threads.
Apply specified grease on the underhead of nuts (1) and on the stud bolt thread.
Fit the special washers (2) and polygonal nuts (1) onto the cylinder head stud bolts.
Screw the polygonal nuts (1) on the stud bolts following a cross pattern using tool part no. 88713.2676 together
with a torque wrench.
Apply a snug torque of 20 Nm to nuts (1); pre-tightening to a torque of 40 Nm (Min. 38 Nm - Max. 48 Nm);
tightening to a torque of 60 Nm (Min. 57 Nm - Max. 63 Nm).
Refit the intake manifolds (Refitting the intake manifold and water union).
Refit the timing belts (Refitting the mobile tensioner/timing belt) and the timing belt external covers (Refitting timing belt
external covers).
Refit the water radiator on the engine (Refitting the water radiator).
Refit the injectors on the intake manifolds and the supply system.
Refit the blow-by and the oil breather pipe, the throttle body (Refitting the throttle body) and the airbox (Refitting the
airbox).
Overhauling the cylinder head components
Cylinder heads
Remove any carbon deposits from the combustion chamber and its ducts.
Remove any scale from the coolant ducts.
Check for cracking and inspect the sealing surfaces for scoring, steps or other damage.
Check that the cylinder mating surfaces of the cylinder head are free of carbon deposits and scale. If this is not the
case, spread diamond lapping paste (6 to 12 micron thickness) on a reference surface and slide the cylinder head
on the surface as shown in the figure until a flat surface is obtained.
Valve seats
Visually inspect the valve seats: there must be no pitting or cracks.
Minor damage can be repaired by grinding with special 45° and 60° single-blade grinders. Grind the valves and
check the seal.
If the valve seats are excessively damaged, fit oversize seats. Replacement seats are available with 0.03 and
0.06 mm oversized outside diameters.
Important
When you change the valve seats, change the valve guides as well.
Proceed as follows.
Remove the worn seats, grinding carefully to avoid any damage to cylinder head housings.
Check the diameter of head housings and choose the oversized valve seat that will give an interference fit of 0.04
to 0.10 mm.
Heat the cylinder head gradually and evenly up to 150 °C and chill the new valve seats in dry ice.
Drive the seats perfectly square into the housings using the appropriate valve guide seat installers 88713.2846
and 88713.2847.
Allow the cylinder head to cool down and grind the seats to the following dimensions:
CA = Ø38.5 mm (0 ; 0.5).
CS = Ø31.3 mm (0 ; –0.5).
S = 0.2x45° mm.
Important
Do not use any lapping compound after final grinding.
It is advisable to lap the radius between the intake valve seats and the intake ducts (F = before; G = after).
Valve guides
Check the internal surface of the valve guides: there should be no signs of deformation or cracking.
Thoroughly check the dimensions of the valve guide.
Measure the inside diameter with a suitable gauge.
Measure the diameter at different positions of the valve guide.
The clearance upon fitting must be: maximum detected value - minimum detected value = 0.03÷0.045 mm.
The maximum permissible wear limit is 0.08 mm.
Change the valve guides when the ovality exceeds permissible limit or the valve stem clearance is outside the
tolerance range.
When you change the valve guide, you must also change the valve.
Valve guides as spare parts are available with outside diameter oversized by 0.03, 0.06 and 0.09 mm.
Change the valve guides as follows:
- heat up the cylinder head gradually and evenly up to 150 °C;

- remove the original valve guides using tool part no. 88713.2842;
- allow the cylinder head to cool down and check the condition of the seats;
- choose suitable valve guides to obtain an interference fit in the cylinder head of 0.022 to 0.051 mm;
- heat up the cylinder head again and chill the new valve guides in dry ice;
- lubricate the seats in the cylinder head and install the valve guides using the appropriate service tools and with
reference to the dimensions given in the figure;
A=(39.3±0.3) mm.
B= (33.1±0.3) mm.
Hone the mating surface with a reamer.
Checking the valve

Check that the stem and the valve seat contact surface are in good condition.
There must be no pitting, cracks, deformations or signs of wear.
Warning
The valves cannot be ground.
Perform the following checks.

Measure the diameter of the valve stem at various points along the section that runs in the valve guide.
Check the valve stem for buckling. Place it on a "V" reference and measure deformation with a dial gauge.
Service limit: 0.053 mm.
Check the valve stem for buckling. Place the valve on a "V" reference block, set a dial gauge perpendicular to head
and measure concentricity of valve face at 45°:
- nominal concentricity: 0.01 mm;

- service limit: 0.03 mm.
Use Prussian blue or a mixture of minium and oil to check that the contact surface (W) between valve and seat is
1.4 to 1.6 mm (1.05 to 1.35 mm when new).
Grind the seat if the dimension measured is greater than the above limit.
Checking the valve seal
After grinding the seats it is important to check the seal between valve face and seat: if the seat contact area (S)
on the valve is wider than the 45° band (W) this could lead to poor sealing.
Checking the rocker arms

Check for signs of wear, grooves or chrome flaking off.
Check the condition of rocker arm bore and shaft.
Clearance upon fitting: 0.025÷0.049 mm.
Wear limit: 0.08 mm.
Opening and closing shims - Springs
Check the condition of the contact surfaces of the valve closing (7) and opening (4) shims: there must be no signs
of wear.
Check the conditions of the return springs (15) and (16) of the closing rocker arms: no cracks, deformations or
failure must be present.
Removing the valve rocker arms
Remove the complete head from the engine (Removing the engine heads).
Remove the timing pulleys (Removing the timing layshaft pulleys).
Remove the coils.
Remove the cylinder head covers, the camshaft supports and the camshafts (Removing the camshafts).
Loosen the eight plugs (11) and collect seals (12).
Using an M6 screw, withdraw the shafts (13) of the opening rocker arms (3) on the exhaust and intake sides.
Remove the opening rocker arms (3).
Using the pawl of the rocker arm spring tensioning kit no. 88713.2069 installed between the spring and the inner
wall of the cylinder head, move the straight end of return springs (15) and (16) and insert it in the drilled shaft.
Springs (16) and (15) must be removed from inside the swinging arm hole.
Use the shaft to slide the end of the spring into its rest position.
Using an M6 screw, withdraw the shafts (17) of the closing rocker arms on the exhaust and intake sides.
Remove the closing rocker arms (6) and (5), the springs (16) and (15) with the spacers (18).
Remove the sealing rings (14) from the ends of the valve guides.

Removing the valves
Remove the complete head from the engine (Removing the engine heads).
Remove the timing pulleys (Removing the timing layshaft pulleys).
Remove the coils.
Remove the cylinder head covers, the camshaft supports and the camshafts (Removing the camshafts).
Raise rocker arm (3) and remove the opening shim (4) from the valves with a pair of pliers.
Push down the closing rocker arms (5) and (6) and the closing shim (7).
Remove the split rings (8) from the valves with a magnetic screwdriver.
Extract the closing shims (7) from the valve using a pair of pliers.
Withdraw the valves (9) and (10) from underhead of the cylinder head.
Removing the cylinder heads
Note
breather pipe.
Remove the exhaust system (Removing the exhaust system).
Remove the timing belt external covers (Removing the timing belt covers) and the timing belts (Removing the mobile
tensioner/timing belt).
Using tool part no. 88713.2676, undo nuts (1) on the cylinder head stud bolts.
Remove the polygonal nuts (1) and special washers (2).
Remove the cylinder head assembly by lifting it off the engine stud bolts.
Repeat the same procedure for the other cylinder head.
Refitting the cylinder/piston assembly
If new parts are used, it is necessary to match cylinders and pistons of the same selection (see chapter
"Overhauling the cylinder/piston components").
Note
If the pistons have been separated from their cylinders, before reassembling these components, position the piston
ring gaps at 120° from one another (the markings must always face the piston crown).
Use a universal tool to carefully insert the piston into the cylinder (first lubricate the inside of the cylinder with
engine oil). Position the cylinder with the smallest valve recess is on the side of the exhaust.
Remove any deposits and degrease the contact surfaces of the crankcase half and the cylinders.
Check that the cylinder centring dowels (B) are fitted on the crankcase.
Apply sealant to the gasket (11) then locate the gasket on the crankcase.
Using cap no. 88713.1920, fit the O-rings (A) on each stud bolt and guide them into their seats in the crankcase.
Bring the connecting rod small end close to TDC and slide the cylinder-piston assembly (12) and (4) onto the
crankcase stud bolts.
Push the connecting rod small end into the piston close to the gudgeon pin (9) hole. Lubricate and insert the
gudgeon pin.
The gudgeon pin (9) must slide smoothly in the connecting rod small end bush and in the piston (12).
Close the crankcase opening with a cloth to prevent foreign objects from falling inside and then fit the snap ring
(10).
Important
Always fit new circlips upon reassembly.
Push the cylinder (8) down until it seats against the crankcase.
Refit the bushes (7).

Fit the cylinder head gasket (6) over the stud bolts. The side marked with the part number must be facing the
cylinder head.
Note
The shape of the gasket prevents incorrect fitting, provided that the fluid flow holes are aligned with those on the
cylinder.
Repeat the procedures for the other cylinder and refit the cylinder heads (Refitting the cylinder heads).
If they have been removed, apply the specified threadlocker to unions (5) and tighten them to a torque of 25
Nm(Min. 23 Nm - Max. 27 Nm) (Refitting the intake manifold and water union).
Fit hoses (2) and (3), and tighten the clips (1) to a torque of 2.5 Nm (Min. 2 Nm - Max. 3 Nm) (Engine tightening
torques).
Refit the heads on the engine block (Refitting the cylinder heads).
Refit the intake manifolds (Refitting the intake manifold and water union).
Refit the timing belts (Refitting the mobile tensioner/timing belt) and the timing belt external covers (Refitting timing belt
external covers).
Refit the water radiator on the engine (Refitting the water radiator).
Refit the injectors on the intake manifolds and the supply system.
Refit the blow-by and the oil breather pipe, the throttle body (Refitting the throttle body) and the airbox (Refitting the
airbox).
Refit the air filter (Refitting the air filters).
Overhauling the cylinder/piston components
Overhauling the cylinder
Check that the walls of the cylinder are perfectly smooth. Measure the cylinder diameter at 50 mm from the top
face and determine the size class to which it belongs in accordance with the values specified in
Section "Cylinder/piston".
Repeat measurement of the diameter at three heights "A" (10 mm from the upper surface), "B" (50 mm from the
upper surface) and "C" (100 mm from the upper surface) and in two directions at 90° between them; check that
the measurements of taper and ovality fall within the range specified in Section "Cylinder/piston".
In the event of damage or excessive wear the cylinder must be replaced as it has a silicon carbide coating (which
provides the cylinder walls with excellent anti-friction and anti-wear properties) and therefore cannot be ground.
The cylinders are marked with letters (stamped between the two oil return ways) indicating their size class.
Always match cylinders with pistons from the same size class.
Overhauling the piston
Clean the piston crown and piston ring grooves, removing any carbon deposits.
Visually inspect the piston and check its dimensions carefully: there must be no signs of scuffing, scoring, cracks,
or other damage.
The piston diameter must be measured at 7.5 mm up from the bottom of the skirt and in perpendicular direction to
the gudgeon pin axis.
The pistons must always be replaced as a pair.
Checking the piston-cylinder clearance
The pistons are marked with a symbol (selected letter (L) punched onto the piston crown) that indicates the size
class to which they belong.
Always match cylinders with pistons from the same size class.
(F): arrow that indicates the exhaust side.
For the correct values, refer to chapter "Cylinder/piston".
Overhauling the gudgeon pins
Gudgeon pins must be perfectly smooth without signs of scoring, steps, or blueing due to overheating.
The well-lubricated gudgeon pin must slide smoothly inside the piston without stiffness.
For the coupling clearance values with the piston and the connecting rod, see chapter "Cylinder/Piston".
If a new gudgeon pin is fitted, you must also change the connecting rod small end bush.
Overhauling the piston rings
The piston rings must not show any signs of scuffing or scoring.
Spare pistons are supplied complete with piston rings and gudgeon pin.
Checking the piston ring-grooves clearance
The maximum permissible wear limit is 0.15 mm for the top ring (1st ring "S") and 0.10 mm for the others (2nd
ring "T" and oil scraper ring "R").
The piston rings must always be fitted with markings (M) facing upwards.
Checking the piston ring/cylinder clearance
Insert the piston ring 50 mm from the top face of the cylinder; make sure that the ring is positioned perfectly
square to the cylinder axis by checking with a gauge at several points around the ring that the top surface of the
ring is 50 mm from the cylinder top face.
Measure the piston ring gap (A):
Distance (A) mm Wear limit
Upper piston ring 0.2 to 0.4 0.8
Intermediate piston ring 0.3 to 0.5 0.8
Oil scraper ring 0.2 to 0.7 1.0

Removing the cylinder/piston assembly
Note
breather pipe.
Remove the exhaust system (Removing the exhaust system).
Remove the timing belt external covers (Removing the timing belt covers) and the timing belts (Removing the mobile
tensioner/timing belt).
Remove the intake manifolds (Removing the intake manifold and water union).
Remove the heads from the engine block (Removing the engine heads).
Loosen the clips (1) and remove the hoses (2) and (3) from the cylinders (4) and from the generator cover.
If damaged, loosen the unions (5) (Removing the intake manifold and water union).
Remove the cylinder head gasket (6) from the piston-cylinder assy.
Remove the bushes (7).
Use tool (B) no. 88765.1657 to bring the piston of the horizontal cylinder near the TDC.
Carefully lift the cylinder (8) off the crankcase, keeping it vertical. If necessary, rock the cylinder slightly using
both hands or tap its base gently with a rubber mallet.
Continue to lift the cylinder until you can access the gudgeon pin (9).
Since insertion of piston in the cylinder is a difficult operation to perform at the time of reassembly, remove the
piston together with the barrel as described below.
Stuff the crankcase opening with a rag or soft paper to prevent foreign material from falling inside.
Remove the snap ring (10) from the gudgeon pin (9) on the clutch side.
Working from the opposite side, drive out the gudgeon pin sufficiently to release the connecting rod.
Lift the cylinder-piston assembly clear of the crankcase stud bolts.
If work is to be carried out on the piston, carefully withdraw it from the cylinder.
Remove from the cylinder head stud bolts the four O-rings (A) located on the crankcase between the cylinder and
the gasket (11).
To remove the vertical cylinder-piston assembly, bring the vertical piston to TDC and proceed as for removal of the
horizontal cylinder.
Important
Mark the pistons to show from which cylinder they were removed:
V= Vertical - O= Horizontal.
Refitting the clutch
If the plate assy (9) was disassembled, take special care with the positioning of the clutch plate upon
reassembling.
Insert the clutch plate pack on hub:
The plate pack (9) consists of:
- 11 driving plates (A);

- 10 driven plates (B);
- 2 spacers (C);
Fit the clutch plate pack with hub inside drum.
Fit the spacer (11) to the clutch housing (10).

Fit the plate assy (9) to the clutch housing (10).
Fit lock washer (8) on primary shaft, driving it fully home inside clutch unit.
Apply the indicated product on nut (7) mating surface and on primary shaft thread, then insert nut driving it fully
home by hand inside primary shaft.
Lock the clutch housing with tool part no. 88713.4284 (Clutch pack assembly reaction tool), so as to hold it when
tightening nut (7).
Tighten nut (7) to a torque of 190 Nm (Min. 180 Nm – max. 200 Nm).
Remove tool part no. 88713.4284 (Clutch pack assembly reaction tool).
Check the presence of bearing (6) on the pusher plate (4).
Position pusher plate (4) with the clutch control pin (5).
Fit springs (3) and ring (2) on pusher plate (4). Start screws (1) and tighten them to a torque of 5 Nm (Min. 4.5
Nm - Max. 5.5 Nm).
Refit the clutch cover (Refitting the clutch cover).
Fill the engine with oil (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Checking and overhauling the components
Clearance between the clutch housing and friction plate
Insert a friction plate (E) in the clutch housing (F) and measure the clearance (S) with a feeler gauge.
Clearance "S" must not exceed 0.6 mm.
If it does, replace the plates and, if necessary, the clutch housing.
Overhauling the clutch plates
The clutch plates must not show any signs of blackening, grooves or deformation.
Measure the thickness of the friction plates; it should not be less than 2.6 mm.
Important
The total thickness of the plates pack must not be less than 46.1 mm.
Place the plate on a flat surface and check the amount of deformation with a feeler gauge.
Max. flatness error: 0.2 mm.
Overhauling the pressure plate
Check bearing (6) conditions: replace the bearing if the play is excessive.
Check the mating surface of the last driven plate; if extremely scored, polish it in the same manner as described
previously for the cylinder head surface (Overhauling the cylinder head components).
Check the condition of the spring guide seats (G) of pusher plate (4).
Pusher plate springs
(L) can indicate two lengths:
- uncompressed length = 50.59 mm;

- working length = 25.8 mm.
Removing the clutch
Remove the clutch cover (Removing the clutch cover).
Undo the fixing screws (1) and remove the ring (2) and the springs (3) from the pusher plate (4).
Slide out the pusher plate (4) with the clutch control pin (5).
If necessary, using a suitable diameter drift, remove the bearing (6) fitted on pusher plate inner side (4).
Lock the clutch housing with tool (T) part no. 88713.4284, loosen the retaining nut (7) and collect the lower
washer (8).
Slide the plate assy (9) out of clutch housing (10), marking them so as to refit them in the same position.
Remove the spacer (11) from the clutch housing (10).
The plate pack (9) consists of:
- 11 driving plates (A);

- 10 driven plates (B);
- 2 spacers (C);
Description of the clutch assembly
The clutch is disengaged by a drive unit (lever (A) and spring) positioned on clutch cover. The drive unit directly
operates on clutch control pin (B) that, in its turn, operates the pressure plate (C) positioned at the top of plate
pack (D).
Drive is transmitted from the crankshaft to the gearbox primary shaft by a gear integrated with the clutch
housing/primary drive gear pair (A).
Accommodated in the clutch housing is a set of driving and driven plate pack (D). When the clutch is operated, the
driven plates push away a drum (3) which is splined onto the gearbox primary shaft.
Before working on the internal clutch parts, check that the clutch operates correctly. Then deal with the problem in
a systematic manner.
The following is a list of possible causes of clutch malfunction.
A clutch which does not disengage may be caused by:
- excessive play of the control lever;

- distorted clutch plates;
- incorrect spring tension;
- faulty clutch release mechanism;
- excessive wear of the hub or clutch housing.
A clutch which slips may be caused by:
- no backlash of the control lever;

- worn clutch plates;
- weakened springs;
- faulty clutch release mechanism;
- excessive wear of the hub or clutch housing.
A noisy clutch may be caused by:
- excessive backlash between the primary drive gears;

- damaged primary drive gear teeth;
- excessive housing between driving plate tabs and the clutch housing;
- worn gear/clutch housing bearings;
- the presence of metal particles (filings) on the gear teeth.
Refitting the clutch cover
Clean and degrease cover and casing mating surfaces. Check that the casing features the centring bushing (8).
Apply an even, regular bead of DUCATI sealing compound (G) on the mating surface of the crankcase half and
around all holes.
Bring cover near the crankcase half and, operating on clutch cover lever (6), make sure that clutch control pin (7)
is duly inserted inside its seat on cover (3).
Apply the specified product to crankshaft (C).
Fit clutch cover (3) centring it with respect to the bushing (8), turn the clutch disengagement lever (9A) until
machining (9B) disappears and the clutch control pin (7) can freely enter into the opening (9C).
Move clutch cover (3) fully home on crankcase. Start screws (1A), (1B) and (1C) on clutch cover (3).
Tighten screws (1A), (1B) and (1C) to a torque of 13.5Nm (Min. 12.5Nm±Max.14.5Nm), following the indicated
sequence.
Ref. Quantity Description
1-R 1 M6x90
1-S 3 M6x80
1-T 6 M6x30
In the Hyperstrada version, screw (1B) is replaced by a stud bolt (10) to be tightened to the same torque of the
screws.
Refit the clutch cable (4) on the clutch cover.

Turn adjuster (5) to tension clutch cable (4) on handlebar.
Screw adjuster (5).
Warning
Adjuster (5) standard adjustment is 5 mm from the fully home position.

The maximum adjustment is of 11 mm.
Reassembling the clutch cover
Apply specified grease on roller bearing (21) and position it fully home in seat (A) of cover (3).
Apply specified grease on roller bearing (20) and position it fully home in seat (B) of cover (3) on roller bearing
(20).
Apply specified lubricant on seal ring (19) and position it fully home in seat (C) of cover (3).
Lubricate sliding pins (D) of clutch drive shaft (17) with specified grease.
Insert clutch drive shaft (17) in seal ring (19) having care not to damage it.
To insert the clutch drive shaft (17) inside clutch cover (3), position spring (18) considering that part (E) has to be
engaged in recess (F): bring the clutch drive shaft (17) fully home on clutch cover (3).
Rotate clutch drive shaft (17) counter clockwise until part (G) touches bearing surface (H).
Insert snap ring (16) of clutch drive shaft (17) fully inside groove (L).
Check spring (18) operation by acting on, it in the direction of the arrow on clutch drive shaft (17), and ensuring
that the shaft goes back to its initial position once released.
Position the soundproofing panel (23) and the sheet (22).

Apply the indicated product and tighten the six screws (24) to a torque of 12Nm (Min.10Nm±Max.14Nm).
Apply recommended grease to the bushing seat (22).

Drive crankshaft bushing (15) in bushing (22) seat.
Apply specified grease to the seal ring (14). Install seal ring (14) in seat (M) of clutch cover (3), positioning the
side with the spring as shown.
Fit spacer (13) and snap ring (12).
Make sure that the snap ring is completely inside seat (N) of clutch cover (3).
Apply specified grease to the oil sight glass (10). Position it on clutch cover (3).
Tighten filler plug (11) to a torque of 5 Nm (min 4.5 Nm — max 5.5 Nm).
Removing the clutch cover
Loosen the fastening screws (1A), (1B) and (1C) on the clutch cover (3).
Warning
Screw clutch cable (4) fully home on clutch lever on handlebar, working adjuster (5).
Remove the clutch cable (4) from the clutch cover.

Working on clutch cover lever (6), slowly remove cover (3) to release it from clutch control pin (7).
Refitting the primary drive gears and checking backlash
Fully degrease the crankshaft splined end and the corresponding spline on the primary drive gear. Make sure that
key (5) is positioned on crankshaft.
Fit the driving gear (4) onto the crankshaft with the oil pump drive sprocket facing the crankcase.
Position washer (3).

Apply the indicated product and tighten the ring nut (2) to a torque of 190Nm (Min.171Nm - Max. 209Nm).
Position the spacer (1).
Refit the clutch unit (Refitting the clutch).

Removing the primary drive gears
Remove the clutch unit (Removing the clutch).
Collect spacer (1).
Lock the primary sprocket (B) with holding tool (E) part no.88713.3417 and loosen the threaded ring nut (3)
securing sprocket using bushing (F) part no. 88713.3406.
Remove the ring nut (2) and the lock washer (3).
Remove the complete primary drive driving gear (4) using a commercial puller and placing a brass or aluminium
pad between crankshaft and puller screw.
Collect the key (5).

Refitting the gearchange mechanism
Apply the recommended grease to mechanism pin (3).
Position the gearbox drum selector fork in the centre of the gear rollers.
Position the gearchange mechanism (3) together with control shaft, spring and plate into the chain-side crankcase
half.
Insert the screws (1) and (2) with the spacer (4).
Temporarily fit gearchange lever (or a service lever) and engine sprocket and shift to neutral gear.
Place tool (A) part no. 88713.3334 on the gearbox pawl.

Position tool (A) part no. 88713.3334 inserting a service pin (E) into the tool hole, block the pin (F) of the tool in
the gear pawl pressing with the hand in the point (G) (pawl stroke stop plate) towards the right, as shown in
photo.
In this position, after having applied the specified threadlocker to screws (1) and (2), tighten screw (1) to a torque
of 36 Nm (Min. 34 Nm - Max. 38 Nm) and screw (2) to a torque of 16 Nm (Min. 15 Nm - Max. 17 Nm).
Warning
Make sure that the gearchange mechanism fixing screws are those indicated in our spare part catalogues. They
must be screws of class 12.9 in order to respect the tightening torque indicated above.
Start tightening the first screw (1), and continue with screw (2).
Remove service tool.

Check that the pin (H) placed on the gearbox selector drum is aligned with the notch (L) on the gear pawl (with
gear in neutral).
With the gearbox in neutral, check that the lever travel is the same when shifting up and down. The same should
apply when a gear is engaged.
Operate the gearchange lever and turn the front sprocket at the same time to check that all the gears engage
when shifting up and down.
Remove the previously installed lever and sprocket.
Refit the flywheel/generator assembly and the generator cover (Refitting the flywheel/generator assembly).
Refit the pump-water radiator hose (Refitting cooling system hoses and unions).
Refit the gear shift (Refitting the gearbox unit).
Refitting the gear interlock plunger and ratchet
On the special screw (5), fit the gear ratchet (6), orienting it as shown in the figure, the washer (7) with the
square edge side (D) facing the clutch-side crankcase half, and the spring (8), positioning it so that the hook end
(A) is facing the gear ratchet.
Locate the hook (A) of the spring on the gear ratchet as shown in the figure.
Apply threadlocker to the screw thread.
Start the screw in the crankcase half.
Position end (B) of the spring so that it rests against rib (C) of the crankcase half, as shown in the figure.
Tighten screw (5) to a torque of 18 Nm (Min. 16 Nm – Max. 20 Nm).
Manually move the gear ratchet to check for proper spring operation.
Grease and then fit the ball (4), spring (3), and seal (2) to the gear interlock plunger (1).
Lock cap (1) to a torque of 30 Nm (Min. 27 Nm – Max. 33 Nm).
Disassembling gear interlock plunger and ratchet
Remove the primary drive gear (Removing the primary drive gear).
Undo the interlock plunger screw (1) and remove the seal (2), the spring (3) and the ball (4).
Undo the clutch-side crankcase half screw (5) and remove the ratchet (6), the washer (7) and the spring (8).
Removing the gearchange mechanism
Remove the gear shift (Removing the gearbox unit).
Remove the pump-cylinder hoses (Removing the cylinder/piston assembly).
Remove the pump-water radiator hose (Removing cooling system hoses and unions).
Remove the generator cover (Removing the generator cover) and the flywheel-generator assembly (Removing the
flywheel/generator assembly).
Undo and remove the fixing screws (1) and (2) of the complete gearchange mechanism (3) and collect the spacer
(4).
Remove the gearchange mechanism complete with the shaft, spring, and plate.
Visually inspect the gear selector fork (5) for wear, particularly around the area where it contacts the selector
drum.
If it proves necessary to change components, disassemble the gearchange mechanism as shown in the exploded
view.
Upon reassembly, check that the spring (9) is installed correctly as shown in the figure.
Reassembling the gearbox assembly
To refit the gearbox components follow the procedure under chapter "Closing the crankcase" relating to the
reassembly of the crankcase.
As a final practical test, ensure that with the gearbox in neutral the front coupling dogs (A) of sliding gears (B) are
equidistant on both sides with respect to the corresponding coupling dogs on the fixed gears (C).
Check also that there is always a small amount of clearance between fork (D) and relative groove (E) on sliding
gear (B) when engaging the gears.
Close the crankcase halves (Closing the crankcase).

Refit the starter motor (Refitting the starter motor).
Refit the complete generator (Refitting the flywheel/generator assembly) and the generator side cover (Refitting the
generator cover).
Refit the oil pump (Refitting the oil pump).
Refit the complete cylinder/piston assembly (Refitting the cylinder/piston assembly).
Refit the complete cylinder head assembly (Refitting the cylinder heads).
Refit the timing pulleys (Refitting the timing layshaft pulley).
Refit the timing belts (Changing the timing belts).
Refit the lateral timing belt covers (Refitting the timing belt external covers).
Refit the engine in the frame (Refitting the engine).
Reassembling the gearbox shafts
The figure shows all components that must be fitted on the primary shaft (23) with washer (17).
The figure shows all components to be fitted on the secondary shaft (16) with washer (2).
Reassembling the gearbox primary shaft

Fit roller bearing cage (10), fifth speed driving gear (22), splined washer (8) and snap ring (7) on the primary shaft
(23).
Upon fitting the snap ring (7), check that it is fully inserted into its grooves on the shaft.
Push the snap ring into position with a suitable size tubular drift.
Engage the third and fourth speed driving gear (21).
Fit snap ring (7), splined washer (8), roller bearing cage (1) and sixth speed driving gear (20) on the shaft.
Then fit the other splined washer (8) and the snap ring (7).
Upon fitting snap rings (7), check that they are fully inserted into their grooves on the shaft.
Push the snap rings into position with a suitable size tubular drift.
Engage the second speed driving gear (19).

Refit the chain side washer (17) on the primary shaft (23).
Reassembling the gearbox secondary shaft

Refit roller bearing cage (10), second speed driven gear (14), splined washer (8) and snap ring (7) on the
secondary shaft (16).
Engage the sixth speed driven gear (13). Fit snap ring (7), splined washer (8) and roller bearing cage (10).
Fit the 3th speed gear (12).
Install the roller bearing (10).

Fit the 4th speed gear (9).
Fit washer (8) and another snap ring (7) in the shaft.
When installing snap ring (7) make sure it is completely inside the shaft grooves. It is a good rule to use a tubular
drift with suitable dimensions to push the ring.
Fit the fifth speed driven gear (6) on the shaft.
Fit washer (5), roller bearing cage (4) and first speed driven gear (3).
Refit clutch side washer (2) on the secondary shaft (16).
Inspecting the fork selector drum
Use a gauge to measure the clearance between fork pin and the groove on the selector drum.
If the service limit has been exceeded, determine which part must be replaced by comparing these dimensions with
those of new components.
Also check the wear on the drum support pins; these must not show any signs of scoring, burrs, or deformation.
Turn the drum in the crankcase to establish the extent of radial play.
If play is excessive, change whichever part is most worn (Gearbox).
Inspecting the gear selector forks
Visually inspect the gear selector forks. Bent forks must be replaced as they may lead to difficulties in gear
changing or may suddenly disengage when under load.
Use a feeler gauge to check the clearance of each fork in its gear groove.
If the service limit has been exceeded, check whether or not it is necessary to replace the gear or the fork by
referring to the limits specified for each part (Gearbox).
Overhauling the gearbox
Check the condition of the front coupling dogs of the gears. They must be in perfect condition and with no sign of
wear on the edges of the teeth.
The idler gears must rotate freely on their shafts.
When refitting, make sure the circlips are correctly positioned.
Check the needle roller bearings for wear.
The threads and splines of the shafts must be in perfect condition.
Also check that the component parts of the gear selector mechanism are in good condition.
Engage the gears and check that the gearchange mechanism does not stick (selector fork-gear groove, and fork
pin-desmodromic drum groove) due to incorrect end float.
Restore the correct end float by shimming the gearbox shafts and the selector drum with suitable shims (Gearbox).
Disassembling the gearbox shafts
Place the shaft in a vice in such a way to facilitate the disassembly operations.
Important
Take care not to invert the shim position upon reassembly: this would potentially lead to jamming when using the
gear selector control, making it necessary to reopen the crankcase.
Disassembling the gearbox secondary shaft

Remove clutch side washer (2) from the secondary shaft (16).
Withdraw the first speed driven gear (3) with the roller cage (4) and the shim (5).
Remove the fifth speed driven gear (6).
Slide off the splined washer (8).

Use two flat blade screwdrivers to remove the snap ring (7) from its seat, taking care not to damage the shaft
surface.
Remove the fourth speed driven gear (9) with its roller bearing cage (10).
Remove the third speed driven gear (12).
Remove the roller bearing cage (10), the splined washer (8) and the snap ring (7). Remove the sixth speed driven
gear (13).
Remove the snap ring (7) and withdraw the splined washer (8) and the second speed driven gear (14).
Withdraw the roller bearing cage (10). All the components have thus been removed from gearbox secondary shaft
(16).
Disassembling the gearbox primary shaft
Remove chain side washer (17) from the primary shaft (23).
Remove the second speed driving gear (19).
Use two screwdrivers to prise out the snap ring (7) and the splined washer (8).
Important
Take care to avoid damaging the surface of the shaft while removing the snap ring.
Remove the sixth speed driving gear (20) with its roller cage (10).
Then remove the splined washer (8) and the snap ring (7).
Withdraw the third and fourth speed driving gear (21).
Remove the snap ring (7) and the splined washer (8).
Slide out the fifth speed driving gear (22) with the relevant roller bearing cage (10) from the primary shaft (23).
Removing the gearbox assembly
Remove the engine from the frame (Removing the engine).

Remove the camshaft assembly (Removing the camshafts).
Remove the complete cylinder head assembly (Removing the cylinder heads).
Remove the complete cylinder/piston assembly (Removing the cylinder/piston assembly).
Remove the generator side cover (Removing the generator cover) and the complete generator (Removing the
Remove the oil pump (Removing the oil pump).
Remove the starter motor (Removing the starter motor).
Separate the crankcase halves (Separating the crankcase halves).
Withdraw the selector fork shafts (1).

Move the forks (2) and (3) to disengage them from the slots in the gear selector drum (4).
Remove the gear selector drum (4) taking care not to invert the fitted shims (5) and (6).
Once removed, it is possible to replace the special rollers (7).
Remove gear selector forks (2) and (3).

Remove the gearbox primary (10) and secondary (11) shafts complete with gears, taking care to recover the shim
washers on the ends of the shafts.
If the bearing inner rings (A) are left on the shafts, slide them off the ends of the gearbox primary (10) and
secondary (11) shafts (Separating the crankcase halves).
Refitting the flywheel/generator assembly
Fit the roller cage unit (6) with washer (7) and internal race (5), applying prescribed grease on the washer (7).
Install the roller bearing cage (6), washer (7) and inner race (5) assembly on the crankshaft.
Install the flywheel assembly (3) with the gear (4), aligning the notches as shown in the photo.
Fit the washer (2) on the end of the crankshaft.
Apply the recommended threadlocker to the thread of the crankshaft and the nut (1).
Start the nut (1).
Lock the flywheel rotation with the special tool no. 88713.3367 and tighten the nut (1) according to the described
sequence:
1 Apply the indicated product;

2 Snug torque at 50Nm at 50rpm;
3 Tightening 33º +/-5º at 30rpm;
4 Torque check (330÷550) Nm.
Refit the generator cover (Refitting the generator cover).
Refit the cooling system hose (Refitting cooling system hoses and unions).
Fill with engine oil (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Overhauling the flywheel/generator assembly
Inspect the inner part of generator rotor (8) for signs of damage.
Check that the starter clutch is working properly and that the roller races do not show signs of wear or damage of
any kind.
Disassemble the unit if you find faulty operation.
Disassembling the flywheel/generator assembly

Unscrew the eight screws (9) and remove the generator rotor (10) from the flywheel.
Start two of the screws (9) just removed from the flywheel rotor side in order to remove the flange (11) and the
starter clutch (12) from the flywheel (13).
The starter clutch is a slight interference fit on the flange.
Use a suitable drift to remove it.
Reassembling the flywheel/generator assembly
Fit starter clutch (12) driving it fully home inside flange (11).
Important
Aim flange so that the side with the chamfered edge is facing the starter clutch.
Fit the flange (11) with starter clutch fully home into the flywheel (13), ensuring the centring hole (C) on flange
matches the flywheel centring hole (D).
Insert a pin or a wrench inside rotor flywheel hole (E) so as to align flywheel holes with flange threads.
This precaution can prove useful as flange is mounted by a forced interference fit and holes cannot thus be aligned
after flange is fitted inside flywheel.
Aim flange so that the side with the chamfered edge is facing the flywheel.
Fit rotor (10) on flywheel (13) centring flywheel hole (D) with rotor centring hole (F).
If screws are not new, apply threadlocker on the rotor/flywheel fastening screws (9) and start them.

Lubricate the race (P) of the driven gear (4) with engine oil.
Fit the driven gear (4) on the starter clutch (13), ensuring it is properly seated.
Note
To help insertion, turn the driven gear in the direction indicated by the "green" arrow.
Check that the driven gear can rotate freely in the direction of the green arrow but not in the direction of the red
arrow.
If either of these two conditions is not met, this means that the starter clutch has not been fitted correctly.
Removing the flywheel/generator assembly

Remove the cooling system hoses (Removing cooling system hoses and unions).
Remove the generator cover (Removing the generator cover).
Use tool (A) part no. 88713.3367 fastened to the mounting holes M10 (B) of side stand.
Secure the tool to the flywheel with the screws (C).
Unscrew the generator-flywheel retaining nut (1).
Warning
While unscrewing the nut, apply axial pressure to the socket to avoid damage or injury in the event of the wrench
suddenly slipping off the nut.
Remove the nut (1), the washer (2) and the flywheel assembly (3) with the driven gear (4) from the crankshaft.
Remove the inner ring (5), the needle roller bearing cage (6) and the washer (7).
Check the inner ring (5), the needle roller bearing cage (6) and the washer (7) for wear.
Replace if worn.
Refitting the generator cover
Before the assembly, make sure that the following parts are fitted on the generator cover (9):
- the crankshaft bearing (11) with the circlip correctly positioned;
- the generator stator (12) with cable locking bracket (13).

Fit the water pump assembly (Refitting the water pump).
Check the presence of the two tightening screws (15) 10Nm (Min.9Nm; Max.11Nm) with the indicated product and
the relevant lower washers, as retainers of water pump impeller bearing.
Remove any scale and grease from the mating surfaces of the left-hand crankcase half and the generator cover.
Fit the two centring bushes (14).
Spread a continuous uniform bead of DUCATI sealing compound on the cover mating surface, and around the holes
for the screws and bushes.
Grease the crankshaft and the gearchange lever shaft ends to facilitate installation of the cover and to prevent the
sealing ring (10) from being damaged, if already installed in the cover.
While positioning the cover (9) on the crankcase half, slightly turn the timing layshaft belt rollers to facilitate
insertion of the pump control shaft.
Starter motor gear pin (C) must be fitted to generator cover hole (B).
Check that the two centring bushings (16) are present on crankcase.
Tap the cover at different positions with a rubber mallet to facilitate its location on the shafts and centring bushes.
Note
Should it be necessary to remove the cover again, fit the puller no. 88713.1749 in the threaded holes, at the
crankshaft.
Insert the fixing screws in their holes following the indications given in the table.
Ref. Q.ty Description
5 9 M6x30 mm screw
4 2 M6x20 mm screw
6 1 M6x35 mm screw
8 1 M6x35 mm special screw
Tighten the retaining screws to a torque of 13.5 Nm (Min. 12.5 Nm. - Max. 14.5 Nm).
In Hyperstrada, a stud bolt (10) replaces the screws of the other versions.
Tighten the special screw (10) to the same tightening torque of the screws.
Damp the sealing ring (10) with alcohol and install it on the generator cover (9), at the gearchange lever shaft.
Make sure that the O-ring (3) is installed on the cover (2).
Apply grease to the screws (1).
Tighten the two fixing screws (1) of the cover (2) in correspondence of the crankshaft to a torque of 5 Nm (Min.
4.5 Nm - Max. 5.5 Nm).
Connect the generator cable connector to the main wiring (A).
Fill with engine oil (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Disassembling the generator cover
Undo the three stator retaining screws (1) and the retaining screws (2) of the cable guide bracket (3) from inside
Remove the stator (4) and the cable guide bracket (3).
The generator cover is fitted with a bearing (5), held in place by the circlip (6), which is located on the end of the
crankshaft.
Remove the circlip (6) with suitable pliers.
Remove the bearing (5) using a universal puller.
Be careful when fitting the new bearing (5) to ensure it is positioned with the shielded side facing away from the
cover.
Secure the bearing with the circlip (6), ensuring that it is correctly fitted in its seat in the generator cover (7).
Apply the indicated product and tighten screws (1) to a torque of 10Nm (Min. 9Nm - Max.11Nm).
If necessary, remove the water pump components (Removing the water pump).
Removing the generator cover

Drain engine oil (Removing the fuel tank).
Note
This operation is described for an engine removed from the frame since all reassembly procedures are easier with
the engine on the bench.
Disconnect generator cable connector (A) from voltage regulator.
Undo the two retaining screws (1) of cover (2) over the end of the crankshaft and collect the relevant gasket.
Loosen screws (4), (5) and (6) and stud bolts (7) and (8) securing generator cover (9).
Fix service tool no. 88713.1749 to the holes (A) left vacant by the screws (1) you have just removed.
Turn the tool shaft slowly to separate the cover (9) from the LH crankcase half.
There is a sealing ring (10) on the cover (9) at the gearchange lever shaft that may be damaged when removing
Always check the condition of this sealing ring and replace it if damaged.
Refitting the starter motor
Visually check the gasket (6) for wear and replace it if necessary.
Position the gasket (6) and starter motor on the crankcase.

If screws (5) are not new, apply specified threadlocker and start them.
Place starter motor/solenoid starter cable (2) and tighten starter motor fastening nut (3) to a torque of 5 Nm ±
10%.
Important
Fill the protection cap with protective grease before fitting it on the starter motor.
Position protection cap (1).
Refit the starter motor idler gear (Refitting the starter motor gear).
generator cover).
Removing the starter motor
Remove the flywheel/generator assembly (Removing the flywheel/generator assembly).
Remove the starter motor idler gear (Removing the starter motor idler gear).
Remove protection cap (1) of starter motor /solenoid starter cable.

Loosen the screw located under cap and remove starter motor cable (2) from starter motor (3).
Loosen the screws (4) and (5) securing starter motor to crankcase and remove the starter motor.
Refitting the starter motor gear
Position the washer (3) and the gear (2) on the pin (1) and drive it fully home on the crankcase half.
generator cover).
Removing the starter motor idler gear
Slide out the transmission pin (1) with gear (2) and washer (3).
Warning
Be careful when performing this operation since the washer could fall inside the crankcase halves.
At this point, it is possible to remove the starter motor (Removing the starter motor).
Refitting the timing gears
Before reassembling the removed parts, check timing gears (6) for wear. Change, if necessary.
Important
The timing gears must always be replaced as a pair.

When introducing the driven gear (B) check that the key (5) is correctly fitted on the timing layshaft, align the gear
slot with the key matching the driving gear timing mark (A) with the gear (B).
On completion of the refitting operations, check that washer (3) is staked against nut (4) in such a way to prevent
the nut from working loose.
generator cover).
Removing the timing gears
Slide out the driving gear (A) of the timing gear pair (1) and remove the key (2).
Straighten out the lock washer (3) of nut (4).

Restrain the timing gear by inserting a pin in one of the holes, and unscrew the locking nut (4).
Remove the nut (4), washer (3), timing driven gear (B) and key (5) from the timing layshaft.
Refitting the external components
Make sure that the O-rings (24) are fitted on the crankcase.
Check for the presence of seal (23) on sensor (20).
Fit the engine sensor (20) in its seat in the crankcase half.
Start the screw (21) with the washer (22) and tighten to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm).
Use a feeler gauge to check the clearance between the engine sensor (20) and the timing gear (24). The value
must be between 0.6 and 0.8 mm.
If previously disassembled, reassemble the oil vapour breather valve as follows:

Fit two new O-rings (11) after having lubricated them with the indicated product.
Fit lower flange (6) on crankcase and tighten screw (5) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm).
Fit reed valve (10), spacer (9), and tighten screw (8).
Fit seal (4), breather valve union (3), flange (2), and tighten the three screws (1) to a torque of 1 Nm ± 10%.
Apply the specified threadlocker on the thread of nipple (4) to be screwed inside crankcase half.
Start and then drive fully home oil filter cartridge supporting nipple (4) inside crankcase half.
Tighten the nipple to a torque of 42 Nm (Min. 38 Nm – max. 46 Nm).
Fit the seal (16) on the oil drain plug (15). Position the seal so that the side with the square edge (B) is facing the
chain side crankcase half.
Clean the plug thread, apply a bead of THREE BOND TB1215 along the plug thread spreading it by the entire
circumference (360°).
Screw the drain plug (15) with seal (16) to a torque of 20 Nm (Min. 18 Nm - Max. 22 Nm).
Note
After tightening, remove any excessive sealant.
Refit the mesh filter (A) (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Fit the seal (24) on the mesh filter plug (23).
Seal must be positioned so that the cutting edge faces the crankcase half.
Apply the specified threadlocker to the plug.
Start plug inside crankcase half, and then tighten it to a torque of 25 Nm (Min. 22 Nm - Max. 28 Nm).
Check the condition of the O-rings (25) of the stud bolts (19) and replace them if necessary.
Using tool (C) part no. 88713.1920, fit O-rings (25) in the relevant seats (D) of stud bolts (19).
Now fit the stud bolts (19) on the crankcase halves, applying sealant on the thread and tightening to a torque of 30
Use the appropriate commercial tool for this operation.
If previously removed, fit the seal (26) on the service plug (27): the seal must be positioned so that the square
edge faces the clutch-side crankcase half.
Apply the specified threadlocker on the plug thread (27), start it in the crankcase half and tighten to a torque of 25
Refit the mesh filter (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
generator cover).
Refit the timing pulleys (Refitting the cylinder head pulleys/fixed tensioners).
Refit the lateral timing belt covers (Refitting the timing belt external covers).
Removing outer components

Remove the camshaft assembly (Removing the camshafts).
Loosen the screws (1) and remove flange (2).

Remove the oil breather valve (3) union from the engine.
Remove gasket (4).

Undo screw (8) and remove spacer (9).
Remove reed valve (10).
Loosen screw (5), recover spacer (7) and remove lower flange (6).
Collect the two O-rings (11).
Check the condition of the two O-rings (11) and replace them if necessary.
Loosen and remove oil filter supporting nipple (12).

Remove plug (A) of the mesh filter and the mesh filter itself from the clutch-side crankcase half (Changing the engine
oil and filter cartridge).
Loosen plug (13), taking care not to damage seal (14).

Remove the drain plug (15) with its seal (16).
Remove the cylinder head stud bolts (19) with the aid of an appropriate tool.
To remove the engine sensor (20), undo the screw (21) and collect the washer (22).
Check the conditions of sensor seal (23) and replace the sensor if necessary.
Check the condition of O-rings (24) and replace them if necessary.
Main bearing shells

Remove the timing belts (Removing the mobile tensioner/timing belt).
Remove the timing pulleys (Disassembling the timing shaft pulleys).
Remove the mesh filter (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Remove the crankshaft bearing shells (14) and (15) using tool (A) part no. 88713.4145, set drift inside the casing
and the cap on the outside.
Tighten screw (B) fully home.
Loosen screw (B) and remove main bearing shells (28) from tool.
Crankshaft is supplied in classes ranging from "A" to "D"
Select the bearing shells according to crankshaft and crankcase punching, as follows:
X - Fri (X): shimming on clutch side
Y - Alt (Y): Shimming on generator side
Z - Bie (Z): type of selected con-rod
MAIN BEARING SHELLS CLASS
Crankshaft Crank pin size Crankcase Crankcase hole size Shell Bearing shell thickness
marking (mm) class (mm) colour (mm)
A 49.992 to 45.000 A 49.000 to 49.008 RED 1.994 to 1.999
A 49.992 to 45.000 B 49.008 to 49.016 BLUE 1.998 to 2.003
B 49.984 to 49.992 A 49.000 to 49.008 BLUE 1.998 to 2.003
B 49.984 to 49.992 B 49.008 to 49.016 YELLOW 2.002 to 2.007
C 44.976 to 44.984 A 49.000 to 49.008 YELLOW 2.002 to 2.007
C 44.976 to 44.984 B 49.008 to 49.016 BLACK 2.006 to 2.011
D 44.968 to 44.976 A 49.000 to 49.008 BLACK 2.006 to 2.011
D 44.968 to 44.976 B 49.008 to 49.016 GREEN 2.010 to 2.015
COUPLING CLEARANCE 0.037 to 0.063
The size class of the two main journals is punched on the crankshaft counterweight and the CLUTCH and CHAIN
side are clearly indicated.
Both casings are clearly marked with main journal size class.
Important
As shown in the figure, the size class of the two main journals is punched on the crank web and CLUTCH side and
CHAIN side are clearly indicated.
Important
As shown in the figure, both casings are clearly marked with main journal size class.
Position the new main bearing shells (14) and (15) in the drift of tool (A) part no. 88713.4145 and insert bushing
(C) fully home.
Smear tool (A) part no. 88713.4145 with engine oil.

Fit the main bearing shells using the tool drift part no. (A) 88713.4145 and positioning the shell parting line at a
right angle to cylinder centreline, as shown.
Drive screw (B) fully home.
Remove tool (A) part no. 88713.4145 and check that the main bearing shells (28) have been correctly fitted.
Refit the components in the reverse order of removal.

Closing the crankcase
Install the O-ring (11) in its seat (37) in the crankcase half. Fit the hose (10) in the crankcase half, inserting the
end (38) fully in the O-ring.
Align the hole (39) of the hose with the threaded hole (40) in the crankcase half.
Position the relevant bushing under squirter (10) of the generator side crankcase half.
Apply threadlocker to the screw (9) and start it in the threaded hole (40).
Tighten screw (9) to a torque of 8 Nm (Min. 7 Nm – Max. 9 Nm).
If previously removed, apply specified threadlocker to dowel (46) and tighten to a torque of 20 Nm (Min. 18 Nm -
Max. 22 Nm).
Check that the two centring bushes (30) are correctly fitted.
Install the timing layshaft (7) in the roller bearing (19) on the clutch-side crankcase half.
To avoid damaging the sealing ring (24) on the timing layshaft, protect the threaded end of the shaft with the
special protective cap part no. 88713.3520.
Dampen sealing ring (24) with alcohol and fit it on the timing layshaft. Push seal until it contacts the roller bearing
(19).
The gearbox assembly inner races (41) of gearbox shafts end bearings are fitted in the bearings themselves.
Note
When refitting used components, before installing the gearbox assembly in the crankcase half, make sure that the
inner races of the gearbox shaft end bearings are fitted into the correct bearings and have not been left on the
shafts.
Match gearbox shafts (4) and fit them to the clutch side crankcase half, fitting the suitable shim for the gearbox
secondary shaft.
Insert the forks of 1st - 4th and 2nd - 3rd speed (42) inside the sliding grooves of the secondary shaft driven
gears.
Note
The two selector forks are identical.
Insert the fork of 5th - 6th speed (43) inside the primary shaft driven gear.
Fit the fork selector drum (5) with the calculated shims on crankcase half.
Install pins (44) in the previously installed forks.
Fit crankshaft (6) with the specially calculated shim inside clutch side crankcase half bearing, positioning
connecting rods (45) in the relevant seats of the cylinders.
After having duly greased it to hold it in position, install the O-ring (8) on the oil channel, between the two
crankcase halves.
Make sure that the connecting rods (45) are correctly positioned in the relevant cylinder seats.
Incorrect positioning of the connecting rods at this stage will inevitably lead to the need to re-open the crankcase
halves.
Apply an even, regular bead of DUCATI sealing compound on the mating surface of the crankcase halves and
around all holes, as shown.
Bring the crankcase halves (12) and (13) together, tapping with a rubber mallet in the area of the shafts if
necessary.
Apply specified grease on the retaining screws and start them on the generator side crankcase half (12) and on the
clutch side crankcase half (13) by paying attention to the different lengths.
Ref. Q.ty Description
1 7 screws M8 x 75 mm
Start and progressively drive fully home the jointing screws starting with those with a larger diameter (M8).
Install two M8 screws (1), on the clutch side crankcase half (13).
Tighten all screws to the indicated torque:
- screws (1) to a snug torque of 19 Nm (Min. 17 Nm - Max. 21 Nm), then to a tightening torque of 25 Nm (Min.
22 Nm - Max. 28 Nm);
- screws (2) and (3) to a tightening torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm).
Check crankshaft rotation on main bearing shells, and make sure that all fitted parts turn or move correctly.
If not already done, fit the sealing ring (23) on the gearbox secondary shaft with the special drift (T).
If removed, refit nipples (47) on clutch side crankcase half, after positioning gaskets (48).
Apply the indicated product on the thread of nipples and tighten them to a torque of 32Nm (Min.29Nm ÷Max.
35Nm).
Refit the mesh filter (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
generator cover).
Refit the timing pulleys (Refitting the cylinder head pulleys/fixed tensioners).
Shimming the shafts
Before assembling the crankcase halves, it is necessary to check the size of the shims that determine the end float
of the gearbox shafts.
Shimming the gearbox shafts
The following shims are supplied as spare parts: one for each shaft.
Gearbox primary shaft Chain side 1.6 mm
Gearbox secondary shaft Clutch side 3.15 mm
Shimming the gearbox drum
The following shims are supplied as spare parts.
Gear shift drum Chain side 0.9 mm
Gear shift drum Clutch side 1.0 mm

Reassembling the crankcase halves
The crankcase halves must be in good condition and perfectly clean. The mating surfaces must be perfectly flat and
free from burrs.
Reassembling the clutch side crankcase half (13)

The following parts must be present on the internal side of the crankcase half:
- the secondary shaft bearing (17); apply grease on the bearing rollers. Drive the inner race (N), removed
previously, fully home in the bearing. Apply grease to the inner race;
- the primary shaft bearing (21), secured with the screws (31) and the retaining spacers (32): apply
recommended threadlocker to the screws (31), and tighten to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm);
- the roller bearing (19) with circlip (33) installed at the timing layshaft.
- the main bearing shells (15).
Reassembling the generator side crankcase half (12)

The following parts must be present on the internal side of the crankcase half:
- the double-race ball bearing (16) supporting the selector fork shaft. If removed, apply threadlocker to the
screws (34). Start screws (34) with retaining spacers (35). Tighten the screws (34) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min.
9 Nm. - Max. 11 Nm).
- the gearbox primary shaft end bearing (20) with inner spacer (22): apply grease on the bearing needle rollers.
Drive the inner race (R), removed previously, fully home in the bearing. Apply grease to the inner race.
- the main bearing shells (14).
- the ball bearing (18) with circlip (33) at the timing layshaft, aiming it so that the plastic cage closed side is
facing the crankcase half.
Note
Bearings do not have a specific mounting position, however it is good practice to install the bearings so that the
written side is facing upwards.
Main bearings

Remove the crankshaft bearing shells (14) and (15) using tool (A) part no. 88713.4145, set drift inside the casing
and the cap on the outside.
Tighten screw (B) fully home.
Loosen screw (B) and remove main bearing shells (28) from tool.
Crankshaft is supplied in classes ranging from "A" to "D"
Select the bearing shells according to crankshaft and crankcase punching, as follows:
X - Fri (X): shimming on clutch side
Y - Alt (Y): Shimming on generator side
Z - Bie (Z): type of selected con-rod
MAIN BEARING SHELLS CLASS
Crankshaft Crank pin size Crankcase Crankcase hole size Shell Bearing shell thickness
marking (mm) class (mm) colour (mm)
A 49.992 to 45.000 A 49.000 to 49.008 RED 1.994 to 1.999
A 49.992 to 45.000 B 49.008 to 49.016 BLUE 1.998 to 2.003
B 49.984 to 49.992 A 49.000 to 49.008 BLUE 1.998 to 2.003
B 49.984 to 49.992 B 49.008 to 49.016 YELLOW 2.002 to 2.007
C 44.976 to 44.984 A 49.000 to 49.008 YELLOW 2.002 to 2.007
C 44.976 to 44.984 B 49.008 to 49.016 BLACK 2.006 to 2.011
D 44.968 to 44.976 A 49.000 to 49.008 BLACK 2.006 to 2.011
D 44.968 to 44.976 B 49.008 to 49.016 GREEN 2.010 to 2.015
COUPLING CLEARANCE 0.037 to 0.063
The size class of the two main journals is punched on the crankshaft counterweight and the CLUTCH and CHAIN
side are clearly indicated.
Both casings are clearly marked with main journal size class.
Important
As shown in the figure, the size class of the two main journals is punched on the crank web and CLUTCH side and
CHAIN side are clearly indicated.
Important
As shown in the figure, both casings are clearly marked with main journal size class.
Position the new main bearing shells (14) and (15) in the drift of tool (A) part no. 88713.4145 and insert bushing
(C) fully home.
Smear tool (A) part no. 88713.4145 with engine oil.

Fit the main bearing shells using the tool drift part no. (A) 88713.4145 and positioning the shell parting line at a
right angle to cylinder centreline, as shown.
Drive screw (B) fully home.
Remove tool (A) part no. 88713.4145 and check that the main bearing shells (28) have been correctly fitted.
Refit the components in the reverse order of removal.

Overhauling the crankcase halves

Visually inspect the crankcase halves (12) and (13).
Important
If crankcase halves have to be replaced, they are supplied as a new spare part set.
Check that the surfaces of the crankcase halves are perfectly flat using a reference surface.
Warning
When overhauling an engine it is good practice to replace all the crankcase bearings.
Generator side crankcase half (chain side) (12)

Replace the bearings (16) and (17) on the ends of the gearbox secondary shaft and timing layshaft bearings (18)
and (19).
Replace primary shaft bearings (20) and (21).
At each overhaul it is recommended to also replace the sealing ring (22) positioned between bearing (20) and
chain-side crankcase half (12).
Upon assembling, lubricate ring (22) with KLÜBERPLUS S 06/100 (or denatured alcohol), then drive it fully home
inside crankcase half and aim it as shown.
Check ring positioning value. It must be:
- oil seal height (B) 4 ± 0.2 mm;

- oil seal positioning (C) 67 ± 0.2 mm;
- (D) 5.0 ÷ 5.02 mm;
- (E) 66.0 ÷ 66.05 mm.
At each overhaul it is recommended to replace also the sealing ring (23) on the outside of bearing (16).
Upon assembling, lubricate ring (23) with KLÜBERPLUS S 06/100 (or denatured alcohol), then fit it as shown.
Check that oil seal positioning value is M=(88±0.2) mm

At each overhaul it is recommended to replace also the sealing ring (24) on the outside of bearing (19).
Check that oil seal positioning value is N=(69.2±0.2) mm

If the needle roller bearings for the swingarm shaft have been removed, fit snap ring (25) in hole (F) of crankcase
half (12) or (13) in its seat (G).
Smear specified grease inside hole (F).
Drive seal (26) and needle roller bearings (27) and (28), complying with the value (H) of 4.8 ÷ 5.0 mm and
making sure that the three parts are fully home one against the other.
While driving, position the three parts as follows:
- seal (26) must be positioned as indicated;

- needle roller bearing (27) must be positioned so that the side with "markings" (L) faces the casing;
- needle roller bearing (28) must be positioned so that the side with "markings" (L) facing upwards.
Drive seal (29), positioning it as shown in figure "D", fully home against needle roller bearing (5).
Smear specified grease inside needle roller bearings.
Check the condition of centring bushes (30). If apparently distorted or loose in their seats, change them using
suitable tools.
When the centring bushes (30) are hard to remove from casing, use a left-hand tap to force bushes out.
Important
The bushes must always be replaced when they have been removed using the above procedure.
Separating the crankcase halves

Loosen crankcase half jointing screws (1), (2) and (3) on generator side.
Loosen the jointing screws (1) on clutch side crankcase half at the vertical cylinder seat.
Reuse the generator cover or a service cover with puller (A) no. 88713.1749 duly fitted.
Secure cover to crankcase half with some of the original screws and begin separation by turning the central pin of
the tool.
Tap the end of the gearbox secondary shaft with a plastic mallet to separate the crankcase halves.
Note
Take care not to lose the shim washers on the shafts and on the selector drum.
Remove the gearbox shafts (4) and the gearbox selector drum (5) from the crankcase halves.
Slide out crankshaft (6) using a plastic mallet.
Remove the timing layshaft (7).
Recover O-ring (8) in the oil passage between crankcase halves.
If necessary, loosen the screws (9), remove squirters (10) and collect the relevant O-rings (11).
Reassembling the connecting rod assembly
After having performed the overhaul of connecting rod assembly (Overhauling the connecting rod assembly) and
checked correct crankshaft/connection rod/big end bearing assembly
Before starting, check that the crankshaft main bearing and big-end journals are free of burrs or evident signs of
machining: if necessary, clean the surfaces with very fine emery cloth and oil.
Check that the grooves are in perfect condition with no signs of forcing.
Thoroughly clean and lubricate the crank pin (7) on the crankshaft (1) and lubricate it with ROTHEN EXTRA
additive.
Take the big end bearings (4) necessary to shaft/connecting rod coupling, following the indications specified in
chapter (Overhauling the connecting rod assembly).
Crankshaft Connecting rod Connecting rod big end bearing Connecting rod cap big end bearing
class class colour colour
0 A RED BLUE
0 B RED RED
A A YELLOW BLUE
A B BLUE BLUE
B A YELLOW YELLOW
B B YELLOW BLUE
C A BLACK BLACK
C B YELLOW BLACK
Connecting rod weight class

Pay attention to select connecting rods according to the WEIGHT CLASS indicated on the connecting rod, as per
table.
Colour Mass (g)

BLUE 510-515
YELLOW 515-520
GREEN 520-525
RED 525-530
WHITE 530-535
BLACK 535-540
Insert the bearing shells in the connecting rod seats matching the tooth (H) of the bearings with the corresponding
marks on the connecting rod cap (F) and on the connecting rod small end (G). It is essential that the tooth (M)
adheres perfectly to its own seat.
Lubricate shank bearing (4) with lubricant ROTHEN EXTRA additive.
Fit connecting rods inside crankshaft.

Join the connecting rod cap (F) with the corresponding connecting rod small end (G), ensuring that the laser
marking (M) of the progressive number stamped on the two pieces is the same, as shown in the figure.
Warning
The grease utilised is irritant in contact with the skin; wear protective gloves.
Important
Lubrication of con-rod bolts is essential to obtain the correct coupling and to prevent breakage of the parts.
The con-rod screws may only be used for one tightening.

Tighten the screws (3) fully home by hand.
If this proves difficult or if the screws jam, undo them and lubricate them again.
Remove any excess grease. Tighten the screw by hand until the head seats against the connecting rod.
Temporarily fit the gudgeon pin (L) to align the connecting rods.
Fit the spacer (S) of the tool part no. 88713.2878 between the connecting rods and take up residual axial
clearance with the fork feeler gauge (T) of the tool part no. 88765.1000 (thickness 0.1 mm), part no.
88765.1005 (thickness 0.2 mm) or part no. 88765.1006 (thickness 0.3 mm).
Using a torque wrench as shown in the figure, tighten screws (3) to the values specified here below:
- tighten at 35Nm at 50rpm;

- pause of 2 seconds and 360° loosening at 30rpm;
- snug torque at 20Nm at 30rpm;
- snug torque at 35Nm at 10rpm;
- tightening of 65°±1° at 14rpm;
- torque check 70÷113Nm.
Remove the feeler gauge and check that connecting rods/crankshaft end float is: 0.15÷0.30mm.
Overhauling the connecting rod assembly

Remove the connecting rod assembly from the crankcase halves (Removing the connecting rod assembly).
Disassemble the connecting rod assembly (Disassembling the connecting rod assembly).
Make the following dimensional checks on the connecting rods:
- clearance with gudgeon pin upon fitting.
In case of excessive wear, replace the connecting rod. The small end bush must be in good condition and firmly
driven into its seat. Check the parallelism error measured at 100 mm from the connecting rod longitudinal axis:
it must be H-h lower than 0.02 mm (H standard height when new is 124 mm); change the con-rod if it is not so.
Connecting rod big-end diameter must be within the specified limits.
It is preferable to use crankshafts and connecting rods of the same size class.
Replacing connecting rod big end bearings
It is good practice to replace the bearings (4) each time the engine is overhauled.
Spare bearings are supplied ready for fitting and they must not be reworked with scrapers or emery cloth.
The bearings may belong to two different size classes, each identified by a specific colour (S) (RED and BLUE).
The bearings are comprised of an external steel ring, the inner face of which is electroplated with a lead-based
compound.
The table shows the appropriate bearings to be fitted according to the size class of the crankshaft.
Crankshaft Connecting rod Connecting rod big end bearing Connecting rod cap big end bearing
class class colour colour
0 A RED BLUE
0 B RED RED
A A YELLOW BLUE
A B BLUE BLUE
B A YELLOW YELLOW
B B YELLOW BLUE
C A BLACK BLACK
C B YELLOW BLACK
Overhauling the crankshaft

The journals for main bearings (A) and crank pin (B) should not be scored or grooved.
The threads, keyways, and slots must be in good condition.
Check for fretting or burrs in the fillet between journal and shoulder.
Fillet radius: 1.5 mm.
Use a micrometer to measure oval and taper of the crank pin. Measure oval and taper in several different
directions.
Use a dial gauge to measure the alignment of the main journals by positioning the crankshaft between two centres.
To carry out this operation, use a heat gun able to reach 150 °C.
Loosen the plug (7) of the crankshaft, heating the latter, if necessary, to remove the sealant applied upon
assembly.
Clean all the oilways using suitable diameter metal brushes and then blow with compressed air to remove any
residues that may have accumulated and may be restricting the oil flow.
Apply the indicated product and tighten the dowels (5) and the special screw (6) to a torque of 13Nm (Min.11Nm -
Max. 15Nm).
Apply the indicated product and tighten plug (7) to a torque of 15Nm (Min. 13.5Nm - Max.16.5Nm).
Tighten dowels.
Big-end bearing-crank pin clearance
In order to correctly couple big-end bearings and crank pin, proceed as follows:
- apply a strip (A) of GREEN "Plastigauge PG-1" to the crank pin;

- fit the connecting rod and the original big-end bearings.
Tightening procedure
Tighten the connecting rod bolts (Class 14.9) as described below:
- apply the recommended threadlocker to the thread;

- tighten the screw to a torque of 35Nm±10% at 50rpm;
- wait for 2 seconds then loosen by 360° at 30 rpm;
- tighten to a snug torque of 20Nm±10% at 30rpm;
- tighten to a snug torque of 35Nm±10% at 10rpm;
- tighten by 65°±1° at 14rpm;
- Check the applied tightening torque (Min. 70Nm - Max.113Nm).
Continue the coupling procedure as described below:
- loosen the screws and remove the connecting rod;

- check the thickness of the strip of "GREEN Plastigauge PG-1" (A), using the suitable reference scale (B);
- the thickness measured with scale (B) represents the actual clearance: if it is not within the specified limits
(Crankshaft), it is necessary to replace the bearings or the crankshaft and repeat the procedure;
- If the clearance value complies with the established limits, carefully remove the strip of "GREEN Plastigauge
PG-1" (A) from the crankshaft and repeat the tightening procedure as described.
Disassembling the connecting rod assembly

Remove the connecting rod assembly from the crankcase halves (Removing the connecting rod assembly).
To disassemble the connecting rod assembly, loosen screws (3) and separate connecting rods (2) from crankshaft
(1).
Important
Take care not to mix up components of different connecting rods and maintain the original orientation.
Removing the connecting rod assembly

After separating the crankcase halves, remove the crankshaft (1) complete with connecting rods (2).

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2016 Ducati Hyperstrada

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2016 DUCATI Hyperstrada (E4) Workshop

HYM(E4).02 - Model-specific information

HYM(E4).03 - Technical data

HYM(E4).04 - Maintenance operations

HYM(E4).06 - Electric system and engine management

HYM(E4).08 - Fuel/Exhaust system

Acronyms and abbreviations used in the manual

- (Versions Hypermotard and Hyperstrada) Sport, Touring, Urban;

- (Version Hypermotard SP) Race, Sport and Wet.

Ducati Traction Control (DTC)

Anti-lock Braking System (ABS)

Ride by Wire (RbW)

General advice on repair work

Used engine oil

DATA STAMPED ON THE FRAME

Following is the table with the frame part numbers.

EC version frame ZDM BA00AA # B ??????

FRANCE, BELGIUM version frame ZDM 1YBJS # B ??????

1 Manufacturer: Ducati Motor Holding

DATA STAMPED ON ENGINE

Following are the tables with the engine part numbers.

EC version engine ZDM 937W4 ??????

ML0 937W4 ??????

Key to engine number:

1 Manufacturer: Ducati Motor Holding

USA, CAL, Canada versions

Following are the tables with the engine part numbers.

USA, CAL, Canada version engine YBJ # ??????

Key to engine number:

Reference Technical specifications

Headlight low / high beam H4 blue vision lamp (12V - 60/55W)

parking light No. 8 LEDs

Tail light parking light No. 6 LEDs (0.27W-13.5V)

stop indication light No. 6 LEDs (2.43W-13.5V)

Number plate light C5W (12-5W)

Front turn indicators Lamp type GE 2641A 12VRY 10W

Rear turn indicators Lamp type GE 2641A 12VRY 10W

Front fuse box key Lights 10 A

Rear fuse box key Key-sense 7.5 A

Black-Box System (BBS) 10 A

engine control unit 7.5 A

Control unit MARELLI 7SM Marelli

Unleaded fuel 95-98 RON

Throttle body with full Ride-by-wire system, round cross-section Ø52mm

Injectors per cylinder 1

Firing points per injector 4

Reference Technical specifications

Ignition Type Electric, I.A.W.-type with inductive discharge

Starting Type Electric starter motor 12 V - 0.7 kW

Spark plugs Make and type NGK MAR9A-J

Electrode gap 0.8±0.1 mm

Reference Technical specifications

Type dry, sealed, maintenance-free

Generator (Hypermotard - Hypermotard SP) Capacity 14V-590W-35A

Generator (Hyperstrada) Capacity 14V-590W-35A

Reference Standard value Service limit

Brake disc Type Semi-floating drilled dual disc

Thickness 4.5 mm 4.5 mm

Braking surface material Steel