Wallpaper - June2024

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JUNE

ONE OF THE ANDRÉ FU-DESIGNED SUITES AT


THE EMORY IN LONDON, SEE PAGE 140

ARCHITECTURE

064 Swede dreams 112 Cabin class


A timber-clad holiday retreat in Bali An elegant escape, by AKB,
designed for a Scandinavian family on a remote Canadian island

080 Green walls 140 Up and away


Studio MK27’s Canopy House nestles RSHP and Maybourne’s The Emory
in the Brazilian Atlantic rainforest hotel soars above London’s Hyde Park

088 Modern love ART


Caracas’ heart-stopping mix of tropical
modernist and brutalist architecture 118 Good mixer
Oddur Roth raises the bar at
106 Dotted lines Hauser & Wirth Somerset
A new cultural hub, by OMA, cuts
a dash in Detroit’s East Village

∑ 017
JUNE
FASHION

068 High flyers


Weekend bags for global nomads

146 Sahara noir


Staying cool in Marrakech’s Amanjena

FRONT OF BOOK

037 Newspaper
Travel essentials, precious finds and
a handful of unusual destinations

MEDIA

105 Subscribe and save


Save up to 25% for a limited time

RESOURCES

TOP, £3,300; SKIRT, £1,690, BOTH BY LOUIS VUITTON.


161 Stockists
EARRINGS, £167, BY ALEXIS BITTAR, SEE PAGE 146 What you want and where to get it

BEAUTY TRAVEL

084 Youth club 058 Spirited away


A Swiss wellness retreat offers recharge An enchanting bar in Japan’s Shizuoka
programmes for the exhausted

DESIGN
120 Shape up
A chill-out complex in Tulum, Mexico

062 Staff meeting 124 Rising star


Celebrating the humble walking stick Why Vietnam’s Ho Chi Minh City
is on the up and up
108 Recover versions
Rajan Bijlani’s Chandigarh legacy 162 Navigator
Where to go: Cannes
1oo Talking point
Montblanc’s 100 years of penmanship WATCHES

114 In the zone 102 Poetry in motion


Soft-Geometry’s San Francisco HQ Van Cleef & Arpels’ immersive show

020 ∑
 
      
Wallpaper.com
@wallpapermag

EDITORIAL

Editor-in-Chief
Bill Prince

Executive Editor Global Design Director Architecture & Environment Director Fashion & Creative Director Director of Digital Content
Bridget Downing Rosa Bertoli Ellie Stathaki Jason Hughes Charlotte Gunn

Entertaining Director US Director Fashion Features Editor


Melina Keays Michael Reynolds Jack Moss

Arts & Culture


Lifestyle & Shopping Editor Watches & Jewellery Editor Head of Interiors Beauty & Grooming Editor
Caragh McKay Hannah Silver Olly Mason Hannah Tindle

Transport & Technology Editor Travel Editor Photography Editor Producer


Jonathan Bell Sofia de la Cruz Sophie Gladstone Tracy Gilbert

Production Editor Designer Senior Sub Editor Editorial Executive


Anne Soward Alice Whittick Léa Teuscher Tianna Williams

Contributing Editors

Tilly Macalister-Smith, Pei-Ru Keh, Lauren Ho (Travel), Mary Cleary (Beauty), Marco Sammicheli, Nick Vinson, Dal Chodha, Amah-Rose Abrams,
Nick Compton, Deyan Sudjic, Ekow Eshun, Emma O’Kelly, Maria Cristina Didero, Hugo Macdonald, Bodil Blain, Suzanne Trocmé

Milan Editor Laura May Todd • Paris Editor Amy Serafin • Japan Editor Jens H Jensen • China Editor Yoko Choy
Singapore Editor Daven Wu • Australia Editor Elias Redstone • Latin America Editor Pablo León de la Barra • Buenos Aires Editor Mariana Rapoport

PUBLISHING & MARKETING

Publisher
Lloyd Lindo

Business Director
Advertising Kelly Gray Bespoke

Bespoke Director
Sarah-Jane Molony
Advertising Director Watches & Jewellery Account Manager
Miles Dunbar Advertising Director Poppy Tracey Bespoke Art Director
Bespoke Editor
Vicki Morris Olmo R Roces
Simon Mills

Advertising Business Manager Advertising Executive Bespoke Art Editor Bespoke Producers Digital Project Manager
Amanda Asigno Tom Santini Gabriela Sprunt Sebastian Jordahn, Martyna Pieluzek
Anya Hassett

International Advertising Offices Corporate

USA GERMANY/AUSTRIA THAILAND Senior Vice President – Head of Future International


Advertising Manager Advertising Manager Advertising Manager Women’s, Homes and Bookazines
Matt Carroll Peter Wolfram Christopher Stephen Marsh and Country Tim Mathers
Tel: 1.312 420 0663 Tel: 49.89 9611 6800 Tel: 66.2 204 2699 Hillary Kerr International Business
ITALY SWITZERLAND SINGAPORE Group Head of Production Development Manager
CEO, Cesanamedia Advertising Manager Advertising Manager Mark Constance Jennifer Smith
Paolo Cesana Neil Sartori Tim Howat Senior Production Manager Head of Print Licensing
Chief Revenue Officer, Tel: 41.79 880 96 35 Tel: 65.6823 6822 Matt Eglinton Rachel Shaw
Cesanamedia FRANCE INDIA Ad Production Manager [email protected]
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Design Executive CHINA UAE
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Maggie Li Mamta Pillai
Commercial Executive
Tel: 86.10 6952 1122 Tel: 971.5035 62723
Paolo Mongeri
Tel: 39.02 844 0441
Managing Director
Malcolm Young

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CONTRIBUTORS
ANTOINE AND CHARLIE
Photographers
Parisian duo Antoine and Charlie’s work
seamlessly merges the worlds of high fashion
and natural beauty. For this issue, they
‘embraced the unexpected’ to shoot our Van
Cleef & Arpels story (page 102). ‘The day
before, we met our model Diana randomly
in a park,’ they recall. ‘She said that she
was celebrating her birthday that night so
wouldn’t have much sleep, but that she was
very grateful for this shoot, and we found
her adorable for saying that.’ The pair are
currently working on their first book.

MAGHIE GHALI JOSHUA ZUKAS


Writer Writer
Ghali is a British-Lebanese journalist British journalist Zukas writes almost
based in Beirut. For this issue, she spoke exclusively about Vietnam, and this month
to designer Rajan Bijlani about his love for explored Ho Chi Minh City’s rapidly
the furniture created by Le Corbusier and changing creative landscapes for us
Pierre Jeanneret for the city of Chandigarh (page 124). ‘I’ve observed this city transform
(page 108). ‘Discovering the collection over the past 15 years and, in this story,
through Rajan’s eyes – with its unique I wanted to couple my own musings with
blend of European design and Indian insightful and powerful local voices.’
craftsmanship – made it all the more Zukas is working on a guidebook for
engaging,’ says Ghali. ‘His passion for Bradt featuring responsible, meaningful
the project was wonderful to capture.’ and offbeat travel experiences.

ADAM ŠTĚCH
Writer
This month, Czech curator Štěch visited
the modernist gems of Venezuela’s capital
(page 088). ‘This trip was a lifetime dream,
made possible by my guide Alexandra Salas,’
says Štěch. ‘I have visited thousands of
modernist buildings around the world, but
my number one was always Gio Ponti’s Villa
Planchart in Caracas. This house was so
special to me that I chose it as the location
to propose to my girlfriend.’ Thankfully, she
said yes. Our best wishes to the happy couple.

SISKA LYSSENS JIN JIA JI


Writer Photographer
A Belgian design journalist now living ‘Every minute and every second of my stay
in Michigan, Lyssens visited the OMA- in Vietnam was memorable,’ says Chinese
designed Lantern (page 106) in Detroit photographer Jin, who shot The Trip in
while it was still under construction. She Ho Chi Minh City for this issue (page 124).
started contributing to Wallpaper* in 2014 ‘The local culture has left a deep impression
and moved to the area almost two years on me, which makes me want to come back
ago. ‘After living in Antwerp, London and soon to discover some of the country’s other
Brooklyn, and seeing the world through regions.’ Based between China and London,
the lens of design writing, I’m seeing the Jin continues to work on fashion shoots
US as both a local and a transplant. It’s a and personal projects, as he develops his
unique experience that shapes my critical photography to be the all-encompassing
thinking of the built environment here.’ medium through which he lives his life.

028 ∑ WRITER: LÉA TEUSCHER


EDITOR’S LETTER

The spirit of adventure


Frequent flyers will attest to the power of those ruminative moments spent waiting
to board an aircraft, so beautifully captured in this month’s soft luggage story, shot by
Rosie Harriet Ellis. Others may detect a degree of ennui in the way the models have
been presented; but those who recognise their ‘boarding gate gaze’ will know it for
what it is: the ineffable feeling of being – at last – in that liminal state betwixt leaving
and arriving – the essence of what invokes the travel bug in us all.
For our annual Travel Issue, we’ve cast off with a degree of brio reflective of the
industry’s ‘return to normal’, compiling a series of journeys that, while considering
Newsstand cover the impact achieving that sense of freedom involves, offers good reasons why we should Limited-edition cover
Photography: never give up the urge to adventure. Photography: Leon Chew
Valentin Hennequin So this year’s issue takes us to Ho Chi Minh City, where a turbulent history has given This month’s limited-
Fashion: Jason Hughes way to a conurbation growing at incredible speed, under the protective gaze of insightful edition cover features
the new Emory hotel in
Dress, £2,165, by and powerful local voices that reflect its new-found energy. A similar story is spelt out in Knightsbridge, designed
Ferragamo. Shoes, £710,
by Jacquemus. Earrings,
Adam Štěch’s tour of Caracas’ surprising wellspring of modernist buildings – a vernacular by the late Richard Rogers
price on request, by that survives the vicissitudes of the Venezuelan capital’s recent past. Marrakech provides and Ivan Harbour of
architectural firm RSHP,
Saint Laurent by Anthony the timeless backdrop to our fashion story, its Moorish architecture blending seamlessly see page 140
Vaccarello. Necklace,
£895, by Goossens,
with this season’s most striking silhouettes. Elsewhere, we visit the Comblé Bar by Shiro Above, for our Trip story
see page 146 Kuramata, in Shizuoka, southwest of Tokyo – a city not short of top-tier landmark boîtes this month, we visit the
– tour the all-new, suites-only Emory hotel in London’s Knightsbridge with its architects, booming Vietnamese
RSHP, and check into Switzerland’s Chenot Palace in search of hot wraps and cold showers metropolis of Ho Chi Minh
City, an urban powerhouse
– a necessary balm to a life of constant movement. where honking motorbikes
And for those who lust after the lure of the home from home, we bring you a brace of mix with shiny new
remotely located properties that uniquely complement their surroundings, whether that’s skyscrapers, see page 124

the canopy of a tropical rainforest or an archipelago in Canada’s northwest.


Finally, and worthy of a ‘flight announcement’ all of its own, Navigator – a name from
Wallpaper’s own storied past – returns as our new back page city guide. For the June issue,
we felt it only right to start with Cannes, the Riviera playground where the world’s film-
goers flock each May. Stay warm, travel well and enjoy the issue.
Bill Prince, Editor-in-Chief

032 ∑
 

     

          
              

    
NEWSPAPER
Wallpaper’s hot pick of the latest global goings-on
Photography: Neil Godwin at Future Studios for Wallpaper*

CASE HISTORY Renowed for their robust grooved


anodised aluminium shells and spacious
interiors, Rimowa’s vanity cases were
and flat pouch, with a mirror inside.
Elsewhere, there are elastic holders
for bottle storage, and there is also a
A much-loved archival Rimowa piece is
reimagined for the modern traveller the discerning globetrotter’s staple removable aluminium and plexiglass
accessory back in the 1970s. Now, the tray, adorned with the Rimowa
luxury luggage brand has reimagined monogram. Finally, the reimagined
its archival piece, catering to the needs version features a tighter travel strap
of the 21st-century traveller. The new than the original case, allowing for
Above, vanity case in silver, £1,450, by Rimowa. leather-lined vanity case opens to secure suitcase attachment while
For full beauty credits, see page 161 reveal a water-repellent zipped pocket you are on the move. rimowa.com

WRITER: HANNAH TINDLE ∑ 037


We’re won over by a catchall Latvian designer Germans Ermičs has designer, is also a metaphor for
coterie of marathon medals designed a set of medals for the Riga the ‘winding road’ that runners take
Marathon, taking place this month. to compete in the race. ‘I wanted the
In the running The design subtly references a shoelace
motif, a humble element symbolising
medals to be equal in size, but unique
in content,’ says Ermičs. ‘The design
every runner’s journey, and there are signifies the inclusive nature of running
medals for every finisher in every race – accessible to all. Whether it’s the
(5km, 10km, 21km, 42km and kids), while shortest or the longest distance, it’s
Above, the 10km race medal, designed by the ribbons are made out from recycled your 100 per cent, and that’s what
Germans Ermičs for the Riga Marathon PET bottles. The tangled motif, says the matters to me.’ germansermics.com

038 ∑ WRITERS: ROSA BERTOLI, HANNAH SILVER


Elton John and David Furnish’s Avid photography fans Elton John Diane Arbus are exhibited alongside
photography collection goes on show and David Furnish have amassed a vast fashion photography by the likes of
array of images over the years. Now, Irving Penn, Horst P Horst and Herb
Beauty parade more than 300 rare prints from their
collection are set to go on show at a new
Ritts. Highlights include intimate
portraits of Marilyn Monroe, and
V&A retrospective divided into eight Nan Goldin’s Thanksgiving series.
themes, from reportage and the male ‘Fragile Beauty: Photographs from the
body to American photography and Sir Elton John and David Furnish Collection’
Below, Self Portrait, 2000, by Gillian Wearing, on celebrity. Works from artists such as is on show from 18 May-5 January at the
show in ‘Fragile Beauty’, at the V&A in London Cindy Sherman, Gillian Wearing and V&A, in partnership with Gucci, vam.ac.uk
Photography (opposite): Zane Priede. Artwork (this page): © Gillian Wearing, courtesy of Maureen Paley, London, Tanya Bonakdar Gallery, New York, and Regen Projects, LA
Photography: Neil Godwin at Future Studios for Wallpaper*

Hermès horses around for a In a nod to Hermès’ equestrian roots graphic motifs, the tableware comes
new porcelain collection as a maker of riding equipment in in a palette that combines the zesty
19th century Paris, the 27 pieces in the tones of lemon and mint with petrol
Stable service luxury maison’s ‘Tressages Équestres’
tableware collection are encircled with
blue and natural hues inspired by leather
and fibres. Curated by Benoît-Pierre
bold, textural patterns inspired by the Emery, creative director of La Table
braiding found in horse harnesses. Set Hermès, the collection includes plates,
against a background of white kaolin cups and bowls in a series of shapes
Above, Hermès’ new tableware collection porcelain that acts as the perfect canvas and sizes that can adapt to various
is inspired by horse harness braiding for French artist Virginie Jamin’s serving needs. hermes.com

WRITER: ROSA BERTOLI ∑ 041


Diamonds are the star of the show in High jewellery craftsmanship meets like snowflakes, they are brilliantly
a striking Richard Mille timepiece horological expertise in the Richard brought to life when set against the
Mille RM 037. Crafted in a deep red gold, deep onyx dial. It’s an alluring foil for
Snow business the diamonds here take centre stage in a
dazzling display of the brand’s mastery
the sharp technicality at the heart of the
watch, which marries an accomplished
of gem-setting. Diamonds are snow set, movement and familiar design motifs,
meaning they appear to have come to with the distinctive elongated curve
rest on the dial almost haphazardly in a and exposed screws nodding to the
RM 037 Red Gold Snow Set with onyx and seemingly random pattern of diameters, watch’s more traditionally masculine
diamond dial, price on request, by Richard Mille from 0.5-1.6mm. Catching the light just beginnings. richardmille.com

042 ∑ PHOTOGRAPHY: IVONA CHRZASTEK WRITER: HANNAH SILVER


 
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An island retreat that’s delightfully A new hotel on Santorini offers the by Kiros Pagkalidis Architects, as
angular and off the beaten track ultimate luxury – privacy. Located off the on-site facilities encompass well-
the beaten track in the Greek island’s thought-out culinary and wellness
Greek goddess north-western corner, Domes Novos
Santorini’s 50 suites and two villas each
experiences, including a restaurant
showcasing all that’s great about Greek
come with their own pool and terrace, as cuisine, wine tastings, a spa offering
well as sweeping views across vineyards traditional Greek rituals and volcanic
to the Aegean Sea. And there’s no reason ash-infused treatments, an underground
Above, luxury Greek hotel brand Domes to ever leave this delightfully angular, swimming pool, and meditation and
makes its debut on Santorini terracotta-hued sanctuary, designed yoga sessions. domesresorts.com

WRITER: SOFIA DE LA CRUZ ∑ 045


Photography: Younes Bounhar/Doublespace

A Google installation offers space to A mesmerising new installation at twisting, organic shapes, which span
contemplate and communicate Google’s Charleston East Campus began 10m in height, are made from ultra-thin,
life as an open competition for architects crisp white aluminium, the folds and
Join the dots and artists organised by Burning Man
Project, which runs the annual Nevada
myriad tiny perforations creating an
intricate play of light and shadow.
festival. The work of New York The structure is designed as a point of
computational design experts The Very engagement for both Google employees
Many, led by architect Marc Fornes, and the local public, offering moments
Above, The Very Many’s pavilion for Google, ‘The Orb’ marks the point where public for them to slow down and be distracted
in ultra-thin, self-supporting aluminium and privately-owned space intersect. Its from devices. theverymany.com

046 ∑ WRITER: ELLIE STATHAKI


 
          

 

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Photography: Neil Godwin at Future Studios for Wallpaper*

Danish-designed sunglasses When packing for a summer holiday, lenses, available in a variety of hues.
that put others in the shade lightness should always be favoured. It’s the kind of utilitarian Danish design
These sunglasses, from Lindberg’s that remains a cornerstone of Lindberg
Travel light Sun Titanium collection, make for a
particularly featherweight addition to
today. And, like much of the country’s
design output, from furniture to textiles,
your carry-on. A gently faceted riff functionality meets a sleek, timeless
on the aviator, they feature the Danish aesthetic, making for sunglasses that
brand’s signature screwless hinge will be your travelling companion for
Above, sunglasses, from the Sun Titanium and the finest quality UV-protective years to come. lindberg.com
collection, £405, by Lindberg

WRITER: JACK MOSS ∑ 049


Photography: Neil Godwin at Future Studios for Wallpaper*

A crafty new candle collection Leaning on its design principles, which Matthieu Blazy, which dramatically
tells some moving stories are deeply rooted in artisanal craft, sways and shifts with every movement
Bottega Veneta has launched a striking of the body. Each of the three scents
Melting moments new candle collection, housed in
handmade, glazed jars, and dipped in a
(Ambery Leather, Green Floral and
Woody Spicy) is made of essential
kaleidoscope of vibrant colours. The oils extracted from plants and blended
candles appear to be literally melting, by hand into mineral wax, while the
the finish referencing motion, in a nod jars themselves are refillable, allowing
Above, candle in Ambery Leather, to the intricate leatherwork of the for multiple uses across the home.
£320, by Bottega Veneta Italian fashion house’s creative director bottegaveneta.com

050 ∑ WRITER: HANNAH TINDLE


  
    
  

                  


                  


   

              


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Santander’s Maritime Museum Brutalism buffs should make sure they aimed to evoke the sensation of being
restaurant gets a revamp visit the recently revamped restaurant on a ship, using materials traditionally
at the Cantabrian Maritime Museum. used in maritime construction. In the
Sea change Overlooking Santander Bay in northern
Spain, the museum was originally
second floor restaurant, the paraboloids
have been complemented with slatted
designed by Vicente Roig Forner and wooden panels that both mirror boat
Ángel Hernández Morales in the late hulls and add warmth to the space,
1970s and included a striking vaulted while floor-t0-ceiling windows and a
Above, the museum restaurant, which opens ceiling of concrete paraboloids. The large terrace offer panoramic views
this summer, offers expansive bay views revamp, led by Madrid studio Zooco, of the surrounding bay. zooco.es

WRITER: SOFIA DE LA CRUZ ∑ 053


Photography: Neil Godwin at Future Studios for Wallpaper*

A precious jewellery collection Jewellery designer Dina Kamal is driven makes it an elegant foil for the diamonds.
drawn from a fighting spirit by a desire for architectural forms in For Kamal, jewellery is armour, and
her creations, which sees her draw curves she draws on a wealth of historical and
Battle dress in 18ct gold, punctuate broken loops with
diamonds, and sink pearls into puffed
cultural references to create her offbeat
pieces. Here, a grid of brushed beige
quilts of beige gold. Kamal prefers to gold dotted with diamonds conforms
work in 18ct beige gold, otherwise known to her cornerstones of proportion,
as raw white gold. ‘It’s 18ct gold without structure and beauty, while imbuing
Above, Square Webbed Mid ring with copper, the true white gold,’ she says, the traditional ring with a precious
round-cut diamond, £7,820, by Dina Kamal remarking that its understated sheen power all its own. dinakamal.com

054 ∑ WRITER: HANNAH SILVER


              
        
German TV brand Loewe is raising In a technological landscape that has of a new range of products designed to
the bar for the small screen distilled every TV into a bland black elevate Loewe into the luxury arena.
rectangle, Loewe’s latest offering, Stellar, For a device like a TV, it’s all about the
Stellar cast stands out. It blends an aluminium-
framed OLED screen with a rear casing
details, not the scale. Everything from
the materials and finishes, like fabric,
made from an ultra-thin skim of concrete, reconstituted stone and bronze,
concrete that gives each unit a unique to little touches, like motorised stands,
texture and visual gravity without speakers and even theatrical flourishes
Above, Loewe Technology hopes to enter unnecessary heft. Under lead designer like lights and LEDs, add uniqueness,
the luxury arena with its new TV Marco Mueller, Stellar will be the first value and a sense of quality. loewe.tv

WRITER: JONATHAN BELL ∑ 057


Shiro Kuramata designed hundreds of bars in his lifetime, but few remain intact.
Now fans are making a pilgrimage to an enchanting example in Shizuoka
PHOTOGRAPHY: GO ITAMI WRITER: DANIELLE DEMETRIOU
Travel
This page and opposite,
Shiro Kuramata’s wine
glass-shaped ‘Samba-M’
lamps line the top shelves
of the bar, which serves
a selection of cocktails,
including the Melon Ball,
made from Midori, vodka
and fresh orange juice
Above and opposite, works by Kuramata, including ‘Flower Vase #1’ and the ghost-like ‘Oba-Q’ floor
lamp, are dotted around the Shizuoka bar, which features playful blocks of colour

S
hiro Kuramata famously viewed his two decades, ‘A Microcosmos of Memory’, backs of transparent acrylic, as well as a
designs as transient, fragile, fleeting, recently finished at the Setagaya Art missing component in one of the four legs.
never expecting the immateriality of Museum, before heading to the Toyama The bar is believed to be one of the few
his creative vision to last for long. Prefectural Museum of Art & Design. remaining Kuramata spaces open to the
Today, as Kuramata anticipated, few The bar first came to life in 1988, just public in Japan. Umenoki, the Tokyo sushi
of the countless interiors that he dreamt up three years before Kuramata’s death, and it restaurant designed by Kuramata in the
have survived since his death in 1991. was one of a series of projects that he worked 1970s, is currently closed, while another sushi
One space, however, is still around and on in Shizuoka, a scenic region famed for restaurant, Kiyotomo, was relocated to the
now back on the creative radar: a cocktail its green tea production and traditional M+ art gallery in Hong Kong a decade ago.
bar called Comblé, in the city of Shizuoka, crafts. A desire by Kuramata to keep the The bar’s owner, Masahiko Nakayama,
a few hours west of Tokyo on Japan’s Pacific space as a ‘cube’ underpins the design, says, ‘The bar never feels old. Even after
Ocean coast. Located on the first floor of an with two transparent plastic sheets folded 30 years, it still feels fresh. I love how, despite
otherwise nondescript building, the bar together creating the large, arced curve of the presence of numerous materials and
displays Kuramata’s signature use of geometry a ceiling that appears to float – an effect different colours, it doesn’t feel chaotic.
and sweeping curves fused with floating enhanced by backlighting the material. Instead, it presents a harmonious world.’
components, a bold palette and striking A lighting system by Ingo Maurer can For him, the goal is simple: to offer visitors
materials such as acrylic, glass and terrazzo. also be found on the back wall, while the a peaceful, relaxed and calm experience in
The bar is one of the few intact Kuramata- terrazzo floor contains light-emitting diodes. this unique space. ‘Of course there are local
designed interiors known to still exist, and There are playful blocks of colour, embodied residents that are frequent visitors. There
a growing number of fans are making a by a vivid red aluminium wall panel, a are also lots of customers from the design,
pilgrimage to experience the space first-hand. curvaceous counter in yellow fibre-reinforced interior and architecture worlds. And there
Its reopening coincides with a revival in polymer, and the blue legs of the circular are many pure Kuramata design fans. People
interest in the designer’s work: his first bar tables. Equally eye-catching are the bar come from all over Japan to see the bar.’ ∂
solo retrospective in Tokyo in more than stools, with their near-invisible half-moon @comble.bar

060 ∑
Newspaper
Travel
Staff meeting
A gathering of walking sticks and canes, arranged
by Keiji Takeuchi, offers new ways of stepping out
PHOTOGRAPHY: PAOLA DOSSI WRITER: DANIELLE DEMETRIOU

062 ∑
Design
This page, from top,
‘Stock’ by Cecilie Manz; Design diversity underpins the end results
‘Cadorna’ by Julien Renault; (some of which were self-produced, others
‘Small Gestures’ by made by Japanese furniture makers
Julie Richoz; and ‘Gianni‘
by Marialaura Irvine Karimoku, sponsors of the exhibition) – a
Opposite, the exhibition also reflection of their range of ages and creative
included, from left, ‘Up’ by perspectives, spanning from the ingeniously
Keiji Takeuchi; ’Bamboo’ by functional to poetically escapist.
Jasper Morrison; ‘Threads’ by
Alban Le Henry; a bio-based
Among them is ‘Milanese’, by architect
rigid cellulose walking stick and designer Maddalena Casadei, who crafted
by Ville Kokkonen; and ‘Passi a walnut wood stick, connected by magnets
d’Oro’ by Pierre Charpin
and internal thread, with a minimal stainless
steel handle for hooking on tabletops.
For his ‘Passi d’Oro’ stick, French artist
and designer Pierre Charpin painstakingly
wrapped a golden thread around a hazel wood
stick, describing it as ‘the companion for
my wanderings in dreams, where spatial
perception is hazy and uncertain’.
Alberto Meda, now in his late seventies,
was inspired by weightlessness – resulting in
‘Lightwalk’, a functionally ergonomic carbon
fibre stick with an anti-slip rubber foot and
‘It’s not possible to go back in time to the nylon handle tilted for comfort.
very first cane. We can only imagine it started Meanwhile, Julie Richoz created ‘Small
with someone picking up a small branch, Gestures’, a stainless steel tube with a pen cap
trimming off the smaller twigs, and using it in the base, a piece of rope wrapped around it
for a walk in the woods.’ Japanese designer and some flowers inserted at the top, inspired
Keiji Takeuchi’s musings on walking sticks by ‘the gesture of picking a flower on a hike’.
– simple in form, yet complex in the nuanced Cecilie Manz’s words are as simple and
layers of its associations with ageing today honest as the object’s form: ‘A walking stick
– form the foundation for a project exploring for when I get older.’ A clean-lined aluminium
a spectrum of personal takes on the object. stick is capped by a horizontal handle,
Takeuchi, based in Milan since 2012, asked lightly oval to the touch, through which a
17 designer friends around the world – among simple cord is threaded. ‘I thought it should
them, Cecilie Manz, Pierre Charpin, Jasper be really neutral, clean and functional,’
Morrison and Marialaura Irvine – a seemingly explains the Danish designer.
simple question: what kind of walking stick Meanwhile, Jasper Morrison made a stick
would they wish to use themselves? from bamboo in his garden, placing a wine
The end result was ‘Walking Sticks & cork in the base. ‘I wanted to make it myself,
Canes’, staged at Triennale during Milan as if there were no walking sticks available
Design Week. It showcased Takeuchi and his commercially.’ He adds, ‘Bamboo is so
friends’ interpretations of the object, each versatile. It’s the most extraordinary material
with its own unique personality expressed – it grows fast, costs nothing and can be
through material, shape and form. trained to do so many different things.’
‘A number of years ago, I was thinking a Another example is the Portuguese-born,
lot about what design is, about how it should Copenhagen-based designer Hugo Passos’
be approachable for everyone and about ‘Cestino’ – a cherry wood stick wrapped in a
creativity, not money,’ explains Takeuchi. wicker basket – its joyful romanticism more
‘I wanted to create an icon for these thoughts. typically associated with youth than the
I like things that are simple and primitive, ageing connected with walking sticks.
universal and purposeful. Then I remembered ‘I wanted to add something a little bit joyful
my grandfather’s walking stick. And I began to growing old,’ he says. ‘As you get older,
to notice more and more people in Milan you probably would like to have a house
walking on cobblestones with walking sticks. with a little back garden – and go out in the
‘In the past, walking sticks were primitive morning and pick some herbs or vegetables
objects. Moses had a stick in the Bible. for lunch while enjoying a bit of sun.”
Napoleon and other commanders always had For Takeuchi – whose own ‘Up’ stick
sticks. In the 19th century, it was a fashion consists of a simple, solid curve of sakura
item, particularly among English gentlemen. wood, with a paper cord grip – the project
Then there was Charlie Chaplin. It’s been a is ultimately about deconstructing
reference for many different kinds of power. preconceived ideas about objects and
‘But today, there is a stigma attached to creating timeless honest design. ‘It’s asking
walking sticks. If you give one to someone, it the question: how do you make a product
implies that they are old and unable to walk. with a stigma attached to it – and how
A lot of walking sticks also focus on physical can we change it into a purposeful product
performance and don’t look nice. So I asked that makes you want to go outside and
my friends, if you had to go for a walk with a walk with your friends again?’ ∂
stick, what would you want it to be like?’ keijitakeuchi.com
Architecture

This page and opposite,


designed by The Lennon
Project for a Swedish
family, Tegel House, on the
Indonesian island of Bali, is
clad in mixed-width, black-
stained timber, while the
interiors feature traditional
bricks often seen in local
temples (the word tegel
means ‘brick’ in Swedish)
Swede dreams
A highly collaborative, culture-led approach formed the foundations for a
pitch-perfect Bali holiday retreat, designed for a Scandinavian family
PHOTOGRAPHY: INDRA WIRAS WRITER: ELLIE STATHAKI

∑ 065
Architecture

‘I wouldn’t say that the general form of the house


adheres to the traditional Balinese style, but we
have intentionally used a limited but considered
material palette, consisting of local natural materials,
to ensure the home felt like it belonged in its wider
surroundings,’ says Lennon. ‘Most notably, the dry
stacked bricks, which are commonly seen in many
local temples, but used here in a more modern context.
The use of teak is also a dominant feature throughout
the house. These materials often pass from the
exterior to the interior environment, blurring the
thresholds of indoor and outdoor.’
As the structure sits on a long, narrow site, bringing
natural light in was a key concern. The solution lay
in creating flowing, open, communal spaces on the
ground level, swathes of glazing in the circulation
areas, well-orchestrated views in the bedrooms upstairs,
and a central courtyard that unites different parts of
the house while allowing daylight to infiltrate.
Conceived as a black timber box resting on a series of
solid brick walls that jut out, delineating the plot’s
boundaries and defining the outdoors, Tegel House
achieves that tropical modern feel, while maintaining
a sense of streamlined contemporary minimalism.
The studio’s work was enhanced by the owners’
research and understanding of Balinese craftsmanship.
Before commissioning The Lennon Project, they
spent a lot of time on the island researching local
talent, and eventually shared with the architects a
wishlist of craftspeople and artists that they wanted
to collaborate with on the project. Working with the
Balinese trade community and resources on most
aspects of design and construction not only wove
the house organically into the island’s way of life,
but it also kept its carbon footprint down.
The project’s contributors include woodworkers
Kalpa Taru, who built cabinetry and bespoke pieces of
furniture; interior design studio Somewhere Concepts;
Maverick Lee, who created a series of neolithic-looking
objects; and Ricky Lee Gordon and his charcoal art.
And because of the owners’ proactive and trusting
attitude, as well as the fact that the architects are based
in New Zealand and the scheme developed during the
pandemic (a local architect helped to coordinate
everything), Tegel House became a truly collaborative

W
hen a Swedish family was looking for Above, the ground floor piece of architecture, folding talent and ideas from
adopts a series of level changes
a modern, low-maintenance holiday between the entry, courtyard
across the island into its creative process.
retreat on Bali, they turned to The Lennon and living area, mimicking the It’s a flexible, inclusive and culture-led approach
Project, headed up by Sam Lennon. The Auckland- local terraced rice paddy fields that the owners are keen to keep alive. The family’s
over which the house looks
based architecture studio then set out to balance the two grown-up children often visit separately with
requirements of its clients with the island’s rhythms, their friends, while on other occasions, the parents
traditions and overall culture, bringing everything join them. At the same time, the clients plan to make
together effortlessly in Tegel House, which feels like their house available to visiting artists – for example,
a natural addition to its neighbourhood, Canggu, to those invited to show work in Gordon’s new
a buzzy resort on the island’s south coast. gallery, Sun Contemporary, which has just opened
Following extensive research, the family had landed in Canggu. In exchange for their stay, visitors would
on their dream plot, which sat next to a house also leave a piece of their art in the home.
designed by the studio. ‘They liked the aesthetic of this ‘As the project unfolded, diverse artists became
house and asked the owners for my details,’ recalls integral to the process, each contributing their unique
Lennon of the first conversations back in 2020. creativity to shape the perfect dwelling,’ say the clients.
The site, even though located in a high-density area, ‘This decision isn’t just about opening our doors; it’s
overlooks a green belt of protected land, which consists a celebration of artistic expression and a desire to foster
of terraced rice paddy fields still in use by farmers. It an ever-evolving canvas within our walls. The hope
was these views and the island’s slow pace, green nature is that, with each visit, there’s a new masterpiece
and pleasant climate that the owners wanted to make waiting to be discovered, making Tegel House a living
the most of, asking the architects to create a retreat testament to the intersection of architecture,
that embraces local styles and materials, while avoiding sustainability and the endless possibilities of art.’ ∂
pastiche interpretations of the island vernacular. thelennonproject.com

066 ∑
Capacious weekend bags for navigating airport departures in style
PHOTOGRAPHY: ROSIE HARRIET ELLIS FASHION: JASON HUGHES

068 ∑
Fashion
Below left, Celine wears swimsuit, £460, by Eres. Bag, £3,800, by Delvaux.
Necklace, £590; cuff, £405, both by Goossens
Below right, Hamaam wears jacket; top; jeans, all price on request, by Valentino.
Bag, price on request, by Valentino Garavani. Mules, £625, by Manolo Blahnik
‘Nelson’ bench, from £809, by George Nelson, for Vitra, from Aram
Opposite, Celine wears bikini top, £270, by Eres. Skirt, £1,620; bag (worn on shoulder), £3,060,
both by Loro Piana. Bag (holding in hand), £1,700, by Connolly. Suitcase, £1,290, by Rimowa

070 ∑
Fashion
072 ∑
Fashion
074 ∑
Fashion
Below left, Celine wears top, £920; skirt, £1,570; belt, £395; cuffs, from £835;
bag, £2,745, all by Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello
Below right, Tim wears top, £59, by Baserange. Jeans, £370, by Jacob Cohën. Shoes, £1,330,
by John Lobb. Bag, £2,050, by Ferragamo. Sunglasses, £607, by Brunello Cucinelli
‘Nelson’ bench, from £809, by George Nelson, for Vitra, from Aram
Opposite, Hamaam wears shirt, £1,160; trousers, £1,100; bag
(resting head on), £3,150; bag, £4,800, all by Prada

Face the travails of travel with capacious getaway bags that do the heavy
lifting – whether navigating airport delays or lost hold luggage, these roomy,
wear-forever weekend bags will carry much more than you’ll ever need
076 ∑
Fashion
Models: Celine at Ikon
Model Management,
Hamaam Pelewura at Elite
London, Tim V at D1Lon
Casting: Jonathan Johnson
Hair: Mike O’Gorman
using Sam McKnight
Make-up: Nina Sagri
using Ranavat
Manicure: Edyta Betka
using Kure Bazaar
Set design: Kei Yoshino
at Bryant Artists
Interiors: Olly Mason
Photography assistants:
Garth McKee, Genoveva
Arteaga-Rynn
Fashion assistant:
Lucy Proctor
Set assistant: Ryosuke Hirano
Interiors assistants:
Archie Thomson, Ady Huq
Digital and retouching:
David Barreiro
Wallpaper* Bespoke

INNER
PEACE
A Hong Kong hotel gets
a new look, offering serenity
and style at every level

Hong Kong is a buzzy, high-energy metropolis, a city


that never seems to sleep. There can be something to
discover around every corner, and it can be exhausting
to explore, so a tranquil escape to unwind in after a
busy day is essential. Lanson Place, located in the heart
of the city at Causeway Bay, makes for a very serene
sanctuary. Originally opened in 2005, this luxury hotel
has just undergone an extensive renovation, courtesy of
renowned designer Pierre-Yves Rochon and his studio
PYR, famed for its interiors at the Waldorf Astoria
Beverly Hills, St Regis Rome and George V, Paris.
The new-look property now offers an elegant
home-from-home feel across its 188 rooms and suites
and six penthouses. The refined interiors, inspired by
the colours of the Côte d’Azur, employ a palette of
soft tones. ‘The renovation respects the DNA of this
institution, which is both a private and personal hotel
and a sanctuary amid Hong Kong’s hustle and bustle,’
says Rochon. ‘The key principle has been to respect
the property’s soul, creating a timeless address with a
character inspired by nature, the allure of France’s
southern coast, and the richness of the art deco period.’
In the lobby, designed as a transitional retreat from
the city, there’s a bas-relief artwork by Michèle Létang
depicting the graceful trajectory of a bird in flight,
a richly textured rug by Galerie Chevalier Parsua and
a resplendent Murano glass chandelier. Leading on
from the lobby, visitors encounter the winter garden,
adorned with lush green foliage and bathed in natural
light from its floor-to-ceiling windows. Here,
contemporary wicker furniture and brass-framed,
mirrored ceilings accentuate the feeling of being
outdoors, while orange trees fill the air with citrus
scents that evoke the south of France.
The first floor unfolds into a series of welcoming
living spaces, each with its own unique charm. Custom-
built 1950s-inspired furniture in ivory, pastel blue and
light oak hues are arranged in a series of three ‘rooms’
for guests to gather in small groups or individually.
Light oak parquet runs the length of the floor, and
original artworks punctuate the spaces. In the newly
configured guest rooms, natural walnut tones and
whitewashed wood feature prominently, with accents
from one of three colour themes: pastel blue, celadon
green or pale yellow. Meanwhile, one- and two-
bedroom penthouses occupy the top two floors and are
intended for guests seeking a longer stay. Delicate ivory
and beige tones and plush fabrics adorn every surface,
all carefully curated to create an oasis of unparalleled
sophistication. lansonplace.com/causewaybay

Architecture
Right, located near the
coastal town of Guarujá,
Canopy House comprises
a top-floor living deck with
a pool, and a first floor
with five bedrooms and a
large balcony. The main
bedroom features a long
rectangular opening that
perfectly frames the
surrounding rainforest

Raised on concrete columns to offer treetop views of


Brazil’s Atlantic Forest, this holiday home by Studio MK27
is not only open plan, but open to the elements
PHOTOGRAPHY: FERNANDO GUERRA WRITER: ELLIE STATHAKI

Canopy House reads like the definition of recharge, connect with nature and meet up
a ‘retreat’. Designed by Studio MK27, the with family. It is now a well-used holiday
home is not only set in serene countryside but home frequented by the clients, a couple and
engulfed in south-eastern Brazil’s Atlantic their three children and grandchildren.
Forest, seemingly about to completely vanish Unsurprisingly, the plot was key to the
into the foliage at any moment. Its thick residence’s design. ‘This kind of project is
veil of greenery makes it both discreet and always very difficult,’ explains studio founder
secluded, even though the site is about five Marcio Kogan, who has led works within the
minutes from the beach and a quick two- rainforest before, such as Casa Azul (W*278).
hour drive from central São Paulo. ‘The authorities only let you design in part
The project was a commission from of the plot. It’s a surgical procedure. But it is
a client who wanted a private escape to great because you are surrounded by trees.’ »

080 ∑
The architect worked on this project al fresco living room offering an immersive Above, the top-floor
alongside Studio MK27’s Marcio Tanaka, experience of the forest. On the first floor, living area, with a bespoke
bookshelf, pendant lights
Regiane Leão and Gustavo Ramos, and Diana five bedrooms and a TV room are placed and dining table by
Radomysler, who heads the studio’s interior in a row, and open on to a large balcony Studio MK27, and ‘Oscar’
design department. She adds, ‘It was also very furnished with three comfortable hammocks. dining chairs by Sergio
Rodrigues. The lounge
tricky in construction terms.’ To avoid having At the top, the main living space is half open area features, from left,
to dig extensive foundations and to respect to the elements, and half enclosed, yet fully a ‘Verônica’ chair by
Jorge Zalszupin, ‘Jangada’
the existing environment, the team decided connected to nature through swathes of armchair by Jean Gillon,
to raise the home on concrete columns. glazing. This expansive terrace offers a perfect ‘Soft’ sofa by Baba Vacaro,
As a result, the ground level has a bird’s eye view of the canopy, and a glimpse ‘Vivi’ armchairs by Sergio
Rodrigues, and a ‘Gota’
relatively small footprint, mostly consisting of the sea beyond (yet remains carefully fireplace by Construflama
of some service and storage areas, and an concealed from the nearest neighbour).

082 ∑
Architecture

Below, the top-floor On every floor, open-air spaces break up the with the former having a softer, warmer
terrace is furnished
with pieces by Brazilian
interior – in the shape of terraces, gardens, feel, more suitable for a domestic space.
architect Carlos Motta, walkways and a set of sculptural circular Another critical element in the brief was
including a ‘Rio Manso’ staircases. It was an important part of the the fact that the client not only owned an
sofa and armchairs,
and ‘Parati’ and
concept, the architecture team points out. extensive collection of Brazilian art and
‘Astúrias’ armchairs ‘The indoor spaces are always connected to craftwork, but they wanted to fill their home
an outdoor space, like the first-floor balcony. with it, adding Brazilian furniture and objects
The hammocks, which are produced by too. Examples include pieces by Zanine
local craftsmen in Paraíba, in north-eastern Caldas, Carlos Motta and Brunno Jahara,
Brazil, for [local brand] Santa Luzia, create as well as some designs by Studio MK27. ‘It
this contemplative area,’ says Ramos. The was a special moment for me when we put
terrace linking all the bedrooms is also the everything in, and found the right place
main circulation space between them and the for each piece,’ says Radomysler.
living spaces. ‘So, to get to the bedrooms from Through its content, context and design
the living room, you have to go out,’ explains intention, Canopy House is a home that is
Kogan. ‘This way, you can always hear the entirely of its place in more ways than one.
birds, and the wind through the trees, and It is a retreat defined by its openness –
the sound of the rain,’ Ramos adds. something that the clients were keen to
The architects also designed a perforated establish from the get-go, but also something
breeze block for the project. It makes up the Kogan remembers fondly from his experience
first floor’s long side wall, offering yet another there, if with a slight trepidation. ‘I couldn’t
option to connect with the environment, relax,’ he laughs. ‘The comfortable chairs,
while also helping with natural ventilation. the view, the colourful birds, the rainforest
The fairly restricted material palette sounds... This place is just perfect.
(concrete, South American pine timber Nevertheless, I was always tense wondering if
and basalt stone) creates a minimalist interior some rainforest animal would appear!’ ∂
language that does not detract from the studiomk27.com.br. The first monograph on the
spectacle of nature outside. Still, the studio’s work, ‘The Architecture of Studio MK27.
architects ensured that indoor and outdoor Lights, Camera, Action’, $65, is out now,
surfaces and treatments were distinct, published by Rizzoli, rizzoliusa.com
Beauty

084 ∑
Tired from our demanding daily life, we check into a Swiss wellness retreat
to explore its programme designed to restore optimal energy levels
WRITER: HANNAH TINDLE
This page, for those with chronic muscle and joint pain, Neurac therapy uses a sling system to support the body during physio
Opposite, photobiomodulation is a form of light therapy that can promote tissue repair, reduce inflammation and give pain relief

T
he Recover and Energise Programme and suites, with sound and lighting settings
offered at the Chenot Palace in designed to help you wake up or settle down,
Weggis, Switzerland, has been as well as an extensive ‘pillow menu’.
‘created for those who are feeling fatigued The Recover and Energise Programme
from a demanding daily life’ – a condition involves a week of treatments designed to
that many of us can identify with. reduce chronic stress and fatigue, improve
Designed to restore vitality and slow sleep and restore energy levels. These include
the ageing process, the Chenot Method medical and nutritional consultations,
was devised by the late acupuncturist resulting in a custom-designed detoxifying
and intuitive diagnostician Henri Chenot diet, as well as body composition analysis,
in 1974. He first introduced his signature bio-energetic treatments, stress tests and
practice in Cannes, before relocating to digital infrared thermal imaging sessions.
Alto Adige in Italy. As Dr George Gaitanos, Every day, the following becomes a ritual:
Chenot’s chief operating and scientific some hydro-aromatherapy, involving a
officer, explains, ‘Our bodies are capable warm bath with water jets that massage
of living up to 120 years of age. But during each muscle, followed by a treatment where
this journey, it is important to maintain you are slathered in a seaweed-based mud,
functionality. DNA doesn’t repair itself, and wrapped in plastic and linen and then put
you start deteriorating. So, the whole idea to rest on a bubbling water bed that sinks
with the Chenot Method is, what can we beneath you. After this, it’s a hose down
do to reset and restore the body?’ with a hydro jet, which feels a little like
The full method is put into practice at a thousand tiny little hands slapping you
the flagship property of the Chenot group with force. A bio-energetic massage – which
in Switzerland, which opened in 2020 on incorporates full-body cupping – takes the
the shores of Lake Lucerne. Renovated and diagnostics from the initial check-up and
extended by local practice Davide Macullo ‘rebalances energy levels’ using the principles
Architects, the hotel now boasts 72 rooms of Chinese medicine. Then, there’s the

086 ∑
Beauty

daily photobiomodulation and neuroacoustic


‘Our bodies are capable of living up to 120 years therapy treatments: the former involves lying
of age. But DNA doesn’t repair itself. So, the on a sunbed-like contraption that bathes
you in a healing red light; the latter in a
whole idea with the Chenot Method is, what darkened room listening to abstract sounds.
Additional treatments include an anti-gravity
can we do to reset and restore the body?’ treadmill and Neurac therapy.
The Chenot diet is a ‘fast-mimicking
diet’ featuring dishes created by chef Ettore
Michele Moliteo, who should be awarded
multiple Michelin stars for his efforts to
make such a strict regime somewhat
indulgent. There is no meat, dairy, salt,
refined sugar, alcohol or caffeine – and all
in, around 850 calories a day. A ‘room
temperature carrot’ for an appetiser doesn’t
sound appealing, but was surprisingly
delicious, as were the soups and salads.
Having never tried a detox programme
before, I embarked on this journey with a
healthy dose of scepticism. But, consider me
a Chenot convert: by the end of the week,
I felt transformed. I’m down to one cup of
coffee a day instead of my usual four; I’m
eating better, and yes – sleeping better. ∂
The Recover and Energise Programme at Chenot
Palace starts at CHF6,400 (£5,706), chenot.com
Architecture

We take a tour of Caracas’


treasure trove of midcentury
and brutalist gems
PHOTOGRAPHY/WRITER: ADAM ŠTECH

The Venezuelan capital spreads out along


the Guaire River, nestling at the foot of the
Cerro El Ávila mountain range, which
separates the city from the Caribbean Sea.
Only a few years ago, Caracas was considered
to be the most dangerous city in the world,
where kidnappings and murders were a
common occurrence. Despite the unstable
political regime still in place, security has
improved, allowing us to take a tour, guided
by local design enthusiasts Alexandra Salas
and Edmundo Hernández, of the city’s
many modernist architectural gems.
In common with other Latin American
countries, Venezuela went through a journey
of national and cultural emancipation at
the beginning of the 20th century. Many
European immigrants found a new home
and plenty of business opportunities here.
The country soon became one of the fastest
developing in the world, thanks to its
plentiful natural resources (oil was discovered
in the 1920s). Art deco styles and the first
examples of modernist architecture appeared
in Caracas during the interwar period,
with work by Arthur Kahn, Gustavo Wallis
Legórburu, Manuel Mujica Millan and
Carlos Raúl Villanueva forming the
foundation for the wave of Venezuelan
post-war modernism that followed.
Caracas experienced an urban boom
in the 1950s, as the country reached its
economic peak during the dictatorship of
Marcos Peréz Jiménez. It became an
architectural playground where midcentury
modernism found an experimental and
tropical twist. A landmark structure of
this period is the Centro Simón Bolívar, »
The chapel for La Salle La
Colina school, designed by
Carlos Guinand Baldó and
Moisés Benacerraf in 1968,
takes inspiration from the
work of Le Corbusier

∑ 089
This page and opposite, designed by Cipriano Domínguez in 1948 still holds the original drawings for the
designed by Gio Ponti as a model for a multipurpose building. It Unesco-protected complex at the family
for a Venezuelan art dominates the city skyline with its huge twin home, Casa Caoma, completed in 1953.
collector couple, towers and sunshade-covered façades. Its A blend of a traditional colonial house
Villa Planchart is often
mosaic-clad, curved forms showcase the and 20th-century functionalism, it contains
considered one of
the Italian architect’s
flamboyant nature of Venezuelan modernism. cherished pieces by the likes of Charlotte
masterpiece works The poster child of the local architecture Perriand and Alexander Calder.
movement was Carlos Raúl Villanueva. His A young generation of Venezuelan
signature project, Ciudad Universitaria, was architects saw the potential of the post-war
built in stages during the first half of the economic boom. Among them was Tomás
1950s. Supported by Pérez Jiménez, it aimed José Sanabria, who built the elegant Hotel
to be the most innovative university campus Humboldt, with its circular tower, on top of
in Latin America. Villanueva designed the El Ávila in 1957. A recent refurbishment has
majority of the buildings and commissioned breathed new life into the hotel, which had
artists to contribute site-specific works. The been closed for years. Other period greats
most famous of these is in the interior of the were Jan Gorecki and Dirk Bornhorst,
Aula Magna auditorium, where Villanueva’s authors of the never-completed El Helicoide
friend Alexander Calder designed a series of building (designed as a state-of-the-art mall,
colourful acoustic ceiling panels. Jean Arp, the site later became infamous as a prison);
Victor Vasarely and Venezuelan artist Mateo Narciso Bárcenas, known as the ‘Specialist’,
Manaure, who created a multicoloured piece who designed a series of decorative
for the university hospital, also worked on apartment buildings; and Fruto Vivas, who
the campus. Villanueva’s daughter Paulina mixed local materials and bold, suspended »

‘In the 1950s, Caracas became an architectural playground where


midcentury modernism found an experimental and tropical twist’

090 ∑
Architecture
Architecture
This page, detail of an artwork by
Alejandro Otero on the Concha
Acústica, an outdoor amphitheatre
designed by Julio Volante in 1954
Opposite, Villa Planchart’s bold
interiors are complemented by
Gio Ponti furnishings, such as these
high-backed chairs, and artworks
from the owners’ collection
094 ∑
Architecture

Below, designed by Cipriano constructions. Vivas is most famous for is also embellished with colourful symbols
Domínguez in 1948, the Centro his Club Táchira, which he built in 1955 in depicting the sun, moon, leaves, birds
Simón Bolívar encompasses a collaboration with Spanish structural and flowers. Similar imagery appears
pair of 32-storey towers, each engineer Eduardo Torroja. elsewhere in the villa. A colourful, dramatic
measuring 103m in height Foreign architects were also attracted living area, connects to a central atrium,
Opposite, office block Torre to Caracas in the 1950s. The most famous a kind of al fresco living room, dominated
América, designed by Carlos example is Gio Ponti. His Villa Planchart, by a ceramic mosaic by frequent Ponti
Gómez de Llarena and Moisés also known as El Cerrito (The Little Hill), collaborator, sculptor Fausto Melotti. Huge
Benacerraf in 1978, sports currently survives in its original state. It pieces of colourful marble cover the floor,
a striated surface to reduce
was commissioned in 1953 by art collectors from which emerge bespoke pieces of
traces of water on the concrete
Anala and Armando Planchart, who worked sculptural furniture, such as a dining table
closely with the architect throughout the and a flower pot, planted with tropical
build. Many of the construction elements vegetation, by the eminent Brazilian
were made in Italy by Ponti’s trusted landscape architect Roberto Burle Marx.
craftsmen, and then shipped to Caracas. More works by Ponti in town include
The structure looks like a butterfly, and Villa Arreaza, designed in a similar spirit
features white mosaic-covered walls, finely- to Planchart, which was demolished in the
shaped corners and a raised overhanging 1990s; Villa Guzman-Blanco, which still
roof that cuts a crisp figure, contrasting exists, but which Ponti distanced himself
with the lush tropical landscape around it. from due to arguments with the client; and
However, the interior is the project’s real Villa La Barraca, a 1940s house that Ponti
showstopper. Elegant typography marks redesigned in the 1950s. Virtually unknown,
the owners’ initials at the entrance, which this house still features the architect’s »
Architecture

Above, the Paseo Las Mercedes shopping centre, designed by Jimmy Alcock in 1967
Opposite, Floating Clouds, 1953, by Alexander Calder, comprises many colourful acoustic panels that
adorn the ceiling of the Aula Magna auditorium at the Ciudad Universitaria ∑ 097
Architecture
‘Casa González Gorrondona, designed for a lawyer by Richard Neutra,
was completed in 1965 on the slopes of El Ávila, its steel and glass
structure bringing a midcentury Californian vibe to Venezuela’

Opposite, underneath the built-in furniture, colourful ceramic tiled relative social stability (until the mid-1970s,
Centro Simón Bolívar, which floor and laminated doors and walls. when the oil crisis began). This period is
is suspended above the Following the success of Ponti’s work in defined by larger-scale schemes, such as
ground on stilts, are a series of Caracas, other world-famous architects were the Parque Central Complex by Henrique
plazas, walkways, commercial
commissioned by Venezuelans for projects Siso Maury and Daniel Fernandez-Shaw,
outlets and parking areas
in the city. Richard Neutra built his largest- and Teatro Teresa Carreño by Tomás Lugo,
ever residence in Caracas for lawyer José Dietrich Kunckel and Jesús Sandoval. The
Joaquín González Gorrondona. Alto Claro latter is a brutalist masterpiece decorated
(or Casa González Gorrondona) was with works by kinetic artist Jesús Rafael de
completed in 1965 on the slopes of El Ávila, Soto, whose large-format sculptures can be
its steel and glass structure bringing a seen all around Caracas. The same era
midcentury Californian vibe to Venezuela. includes Jorge Castillo’s experiments in
Americans Wallace K Harrison and prefabrication, such as his own home, Casa
Bruce Alonzo Goff also worked in Caracas. en El Amarillo, and Casa Mara, which he
Sadly, Goff ’s gigantic Ignacio Perez house was built in polyester reinforced with fibreglass.
never built, but one of his pupils, Alejandro The building system is still in use today.
Pietri, would go on to make a mark on From the 1970s onwards, architectural
Venezuela’s organic architecture instead. styles in Caracas started moving towards
Born into a wealthy family, and an admirer of high-tech and postmodernism. These
Frank Lloyd Wright and Goff, Pietri designed movements’ influences can be seen in the
some of the city’s most experimental architecture of the 1978 Centro Banaven,
structures, including the concrete Mariperez designed by Philip Johnson and John Burgee.
cable car station, connecting the city with Nicknamed the ‘Black Cube’, the cascading
El Ávila national park; the exceptional administrative building, with its mirrored
Los Morochos apartment building, with its façade, features another Jesús Rafael de Soto
concrete grid façade; and the Gothic-inspired artwork. Postmodernism came to symbolise
Los Moros. His 1963 Quinta La Margarita Venezuela’s most prosperous era, before
is probably the most successful reincarnation Hugo Chávez came to power and completely
of Goff ’s organic poetry. changed the direction of this beautiful
During the 1960s and 1970s, Venezuelan country, and its capital, which has turned
architecture continued to flourish under the out to be one of the richest architecture
new democratic system, which resulted in laboratories of the 20th century. ∂

∑ 099
Talking point

A new collection of writing


instruments celebrates the
100-year anniversary of the
Montblanc Meisterstück pen
WRITER: CARAGH MCKAY

100 ∑
Design

N
ice pen.’ Two words, but in Steven The Montblanc Meisterstück has, through precious white resin cap design, reminiscent
Zaillian’s recent remake of Patricia its first modern century, continued to fit the of dissolving ink, is surrounded by the
Highsmith’s The Talented Mr Ripley, hand of history, an achievable luxury that respective colour tone of each new pen.
weighty with symbolism. With its satisfyingly speaks for all echelons of society, from office You could argue that 2024 is a happily
rich feel, glossy good looks and authoritative workers to presidents and film stars alike. pertinent year for Montblanc to take stock,
associations, the black resin pen that Tom To celebrate the pen’s centenary, the because the Meisterstück’s trajectory is, in
Ripley had just stolen from his friend is a multi-pillar luxury house, known today as a way, a symbol of our new modernity. It was
Montblanc Meisterstück, easily identified by much for its fine leather and watch offerings created post-World War I, in 1924, for the
its white ‘star’ top. And, as the deceptive as its legendary writing instruments, has nascent modern office manager. Today, in
Ripley knows, that pen, instantly recognisable launched a commemorative series that draws our post-pandemic years, the lure of the fine-
by the concierge of an opulent Italian hotel, on elements of the original designs as well as writing instrument is undimmed. A resolute
Photography: Neil Godwin at Future Studios for Wallpaper*

is a passport to a new, rarefied world. imaginative flourishes gleaned from archive object of classic technology and absolute
While apparently unintended, the pen’s editions that never saw the light of day. craftsmanship, it has accrued a new status
appearance throughout the series is a fitting The number ‘4810’ engraved on the two- in an era when the art of writing and
tribute to an object now in its 100th year. tone gold nib as a reference to the height of journalling is delighting new generations.
The Meisterstück pen was born in Hamburg, the Mont Blanc mountain, for instance, made ‘Handwriting is, after all, a joyful form
when the house traded under its original, its debut in the 1920s, while the slinky, cigar- of self-expression,’ says Montblanc’s chief
supremely art deco name: Simplo. The name shaped barrel and the three gold rings that marketing officer, Vincent Montalescot.
Montblanc, ‘the highest peak in the Alps’, delineate the refill screw emerged in the 1940s ‘The ritual of putting words on paper, by
reflecting the brand’s dedication to achieving and 1950s. Each new design is decorated with hand, exploring personal creativity,
peak quality, came when Simplo realised its a nib emblazoned with ‘100’ (Montblanc nibs slowing down, must be appealing to digital
simple black ‘safety’ pen was a hit. Cleverly have always been handmade in gold), as well natives who are used to a fast-paced online
engineered to prevent ink spillage while as the milestone dates, 1924 and 2024. The existence. Whether writing a note in a few
tucked in an office manager’s suit pocket, it Meisterstück logo is also elegantly engraved words or, perhaps, a long, heartfelt letter,
had become a cult hit with customers, who along the side of the pen cap. A marbled either way, the result could be something
requested a deluxe design edition for use on finish adopted in the early Meisterstück long-lasting that is worth keeping.’ ∂
‘Sundays’. The summit had been reached. designs also makes a reappearance, while the montblanc.com
Watches

An immersive London exhibition takes visitors on an enchanted


journey inside the watchmaking world of Van Cleef & Arpels
PHOTOGRAPHY: ANTOINE AND CHARLIE WRITER: HANNAH SILVER FASHION: JASON HUGHES

A new London exhibition is celebrating the


fantastical horological world of Van Cleef
& Arpels, where fairies and ballerinas flit
over watch dials, diamond moons rise and
gold suns set, and flowers wave gently in the
breeze. The exhibition, entitled ‘Poetry of
Time’, traces the early days of the maison,
following Estelle Arpels’ marriage to Alfred
Van Cleef in 1895, which signalled the
beginning of a distinctive aesthetic that
blurred the lines between high jewellery and
watchmaking. Crafts such as the ‘mystery set’
technique, where diamonds appear to hover
without the aid of visible settings, and the
transformable zip necklace – which actually
zipped – set a sharply technical tone.
This jewellery heritage, when married
to a watchmaking savoir faire, went on to
define the aesthetic of the timepieces.
Romance reigned, from the jewelled birds
perched on a 1949 table clock to spectacular
high jewellery automatons.
Throughout the retrospective – which
will be on show at South Kensington’s
Cromwell Place gallery – the old meets the
new, with traditional crafts sharpened
by technical innovation. The process requires
a team effort, uniting skills across the
maison. ‘We can create our own colours,
we are in control of the process,’ explains
Rainer Bernard, Van Cleef & Arpels’ research
and development director for timepieces.
‘We combine research and knowledge
with craftsmanship and artistry. And this
combination brings us to new levels.’
The narrative is key, Bernard emphasises.
‘We develop the technique according to the
story. First is the story. Then we have to »

102 ∑
Above, Frivole rose gold earrings with diamonds, £16,000; Ludo Secret rose gold watch with diamonds, price on request;
Frivole rose and white gold ring with diamonds, £18,200, all by Van Cleef & Arpels
Bodysuit, £1,370; shoes, £1,050, both by Alaïa. Underwear, £80; tights, £20, both by Wolford
Watches
Left, Frivole rose gold
earrings with diamonds,
£16,000; Ludo Secret rose
gold watch with diamonds,
price on request; Frivole
rose and white gold ring
with diamonds, £18,200,
all by Van Cleef & Arpels
Dress, £3,030, by Alaïa
For stockists, see page 161

Model: Diana Helzina at


Premium Models
Casting: Ikki Casting at WSM
Hair: Tié Toyama at Calliste
Make-up: Marielle Loubet
at Calliste
Manicure: Lilly Lize
Photography assistant:
Jules Martin
Digital operator: Florian Massal

find the balance between aesthetics and


what’s technically doable. And when you
do something that you’ve never done before,
you find technical difficulties. So then
we have to talk with the creative team and
it will influence the drawing. The design
is constantly in movement until we find
a concept that satisfies us technically.’
This immersive emphasis is reflected
in the exhibition itself. Visitors are able to
witness demonstrations from Geneva’s
watchmaking artisans and learn about the
mechanical process behind each watch,
with visitors of all ages able to take part
in workshops run by L’École School of
Jewelry Arts. Inside the exhibition, engaging
scenography takes visitors through an
enchanted forest, with art deco accents
nodding to the movement’s significant
impact on maison’s the watches and jewellery.
Peppered with Murano glass leaves and rich
in green, orange and blue hues, the setting
is a jewellery box of treats in itself – as it
should be, says Bernard. ‘The main actors in
the development [of the pieces] are the
craftsmanship and the engineering, and then
the jewellery – it’s always a piece of jewellery.’
‘We try to trigger an emotional reaction, not The exhibition title, ‘Poetry of Time’,
through words, but through the creation itself, reflects this taste for the extraordinary. ‘What
is poetry?’ Benard asks. ‘It triggers a feeling,
and then to animate that creation’ or an emotional reaction. We also try to
trigger an emotional reaction, not through
words, but through the creation itself, and
then to animate that creation.’ ∂
‘Poetry of Time’ will be on show from 26 May-
9 June at Cromwell Place, London SW7,
cromwellplace.com, vancleefarpels.com

104 ∑
Architecture
Design
Art & Culture
Travel
Entertaining
Beauty & Grooming
Transport
Technology
Fashion
Watches & Jewellery

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Library Street Collective’s new cultural hub in Detroit, designed by OMA New
York, is a signature rebuild that makes the most of the site’s existing structures
WRITER: SISKA LYSSENS

106 ∑
Architecture
Left, Lantern takes its
name from its façade, a
concrete masonry wall
drilled with 1,500 holes
to house cylindrical glass
elements that create a
glowing effect at night

A
sk Anthony Curis about Lantern, the creativity, without losing sight of the urban
new cultural and community hub in context. ‘In a city like Detroit, where a lot of
Detroit’s East Village, and he’ll give the urban fabric has disappeared, it’s great
you a modest answer. On a rainy March to preserve a building like this,’ says OMA’s
afternoon in the Michigan city, known for Jason Long, who led the design for Lantern.
its shifting fortunes tied to the automotive Though the space that became the
industry, he describes the architectural courtyard was missing a roof and a wall on
transformations redrawing the area, of which one side, Long decided to leverage the
Lantern is part, as ‘a by-product’ of Library existing structure, warts and all. ‘The solid
Street Collective, the gallery he founded with walls on the most prominent corner of the
his partner in life and work, JJ Curis, in 2012. site are a very simple construction of concrete
And yet, the many changes happening masonry units,’ he explains. ‘We thought
in Little Village, as the burgeoning creative that solidity was something to keep and at
district is now known, are both intentional the same time we wanted to figure out a way
and sweeping – and the Curises are behind to bring light into that part of the building
them. There’s the renovation of a 1912 church- – and some life into the façade itself.’
turned-art gallery-and-library by Peterson Long’s approach for these walls emerged
Rich Office. Next to it, a McArthur Binion while iterating different compositions of
and Tony Hawk-designed skate park borders windows, ideas that never really felt right.
a sculpture garden dedicated to the visual ‘The existing openings within the building
artist Charles McGee, with landscaping by were so straightforward, clear and rational
Manhattan-based studio OSD. An adjacent that doing something expressive just never
rectory was recast into a guesthouse and seemed to work.’ He ultimately landed
artist residency by Detroit practice Rossetti, on drilling 1,500 holes into the surface and
with interiors by Holly Jonsson Studio. filling them with cylindrical glass elements.
‘When we first started meeting with the They perforate the façade with a muted
community members and stakeholders they transparency that hints at what goes on
said incredible, great – but we don’t want it inside. Long sees it as ‘a somewhat light touch
to be an island, we want you to do more,’ that at the same time has a dramatic impact.’
Curis says about the response to their plans Not only has this façade been transformed
for the church, their first acquisition. from a solid barrier bordering the street to
The more they did, the more their list a textured invitation to explore Lantern, but
of collaborators kept growing. The Curises’ the way the community will circulate and
latest project, developed with OMA New engage with the buildings has also been
York, transforms a collection of buildings altered. By repositioning the main entrance
that includes a former commercial bakery toward the courtyard, formed from 2,000
and warehouses into a mixed-use complex. sq ft of poured red concrete, OMA shields
Sitting at the corner of Kercheval and this public space from traffic while opening it
McClellan avenues, the newly opened up to an alley and the site beyond it. ‘That was
Lantern will house the HQ of two local art our way of gesturing towards what we hope
non-profits: Signal-Return, a community will happen as this area develops,’ offers Long.
letterpress print shop, and Progressive Arts ‘We try to make all of our projects adaptable
Studio Collective (PASC), which supports in certain ways, knowing that they might
artists with disabilities and mental health be used differently in the future.’
differences. Organised around a courtyard, A living and breathing hub for the local
other tenants – artist studios, the music community, Lantern is the newest example
recording company Assemble Sound, plus of how OMA leverages architecture as a
Photography: Jason Keen

retail spaces and more – round out a concept catalyst for social change, creating the perfect
that sets out to serve the broader community. foil for the Curises’ mission. Long adds,
In sync with the Curises’ and the Detroit ‘Detroit is in a position to really experiment
art icon Charles McGee’s vision of improving with urban conditions, culture and buildings.
the quality of life in the city through art, Hopefully, this intervention has been done
OMA has designed a building that reflects in that spirit of experimentation.’ ∂
this idea of making a space that encourages oma.com, lscgallery.com
Credits

108 ∑ CREDITS
Design

British-Indian collector Rajan Bijlani’s design collection is inspired


by a mission to conserve the Chandigarh legacy
PHOTOGRAPHY: NORMAN WILCOX-GEISSEN WRITER: MAGHIE GHALI
F
or the last 20 years, British-Indian
collector Rajan Bijlani has been
painstakingly tracking down furniture
from the city of Chandigarh, designed by
a group of modernists, led by Le Corbusier
and Pierre Jeanneret. Located in the northern
Indian state of Punjab, Chandigarh was
conceived in 1947 (see W*147), when India
and Pakistan partitioned and the British
occupation ended. Jawaharlal Nehru,
India’s first prime minister, sought to fashion
a modern and forward-thinking country by
building a city from scratch, commissioning
Le Corbusier and Jeanneret to design the
masterplan, many of the city’s main buildings
and its furniture. Crafted between 1954
and 1966 – primarily from teak and rosewood
– the furniture is a unique fusion of Eastern
and Western design, which Bijlani first
started acquiring in 2004 in a collection
that now amounts to around 500 pieces.
‘It was quite amazing because it was all
local materials, handmade by local carpenters
and craftsmen who had these ancient skills,
but designed by European modernist
architects,’ he says. ‘I started collecting it to
help conserve this design legacy, because it
was not really being looked after, and because
I loved the materiality of it, compared to the
backdrop of the concrete and the brutalism
of Le Corbusier’s architecture.’
Bijlani exhibited part of his collection
publicly for the first time in February in
Switzerland, presenting a fitting update
to sofas and armchairs that had previously
been upholstered in cowhide by European
galleries. Collaborating with Loro Piana,
the new pieces come in hues of ginger, earthy
brown and soft grey. ‘The cow is sacred in
India. It’s a very incongruous choice to use
cowhide and it didn’t make sense, especially
with me being Hindu,’ says Bijlani. ‘I started
thinking of what would be synonymous with
Punjab and, on a very clear day, you can see
the Himalayas from Chandigarh, and so
I thought of cashmere and pashmina.’
Standout pieces from the collection
include some teak and zinc tables from the
cafeteria at Chandigarh hospital and a library
chair by Eulie Chowdhury, India’s first
qualified woman architect, who worked with
Jeanneret on furniture production. There are
a pair of rarely-seen rattan chairs, from a
private doctor’s house, which still have their
original rattan in decent shape – a rare find
This page, a teak and
cane sofa, c1955 after 70 years. Bijlani is also working with
This page, right, a teak expert restorers to care for some of the pieces.
and zinc table, 1959 ‘This is such an important collection,
All pieces designed which has never really been seen and is so
by Pierre Jeanneret well preserved. As a custodian, I want to
for private and
public buildings
support it by donating some pieces to cultural
around Chandigarh institutions, so that they can continue to
Opposite, teak and be preserved,’ says Bijlani. ‘I want to make
cane chairs, c1955, sure that there’s increasing awareness about
by Pierre Jeanneret,
with cashmere
the importance and the history of the
cushion by Loro Piana collections. It’s been a very long journey, but
Interiors stylist: it’s a process that’s been done with care,
Rosanna Bruce custodianship and passion.’ ∂ rajanbijlani.com

110 ∑
Design
CABIN CLASS

An elegant escape on a remote Ontario island offers up a


contemporary reinterpretation of the local vernacular
PHOTOGRAPHY: DOUBLESPACE WRITER: ELLIE STATHAKI

112 ∑
Architecture

This picture and opposite, on a


rocky island in Lake Huron, the
Whistling Wind House comprises a
cottage, guest house, sauna, boat
storage and gym, interconnected
by a series of wooden gangways

ocated off the east coast of Georgian

L
points, setbacks, volume and height. All the the cedar shingles cover both the roof and
Bay in Pointe au Baril, Ontario, docks had to be floating to accommodate walls, the windows are carved inwards and
Whistling Wind Island is so named the water rises on the lake. ‘It’s about living become expansive voids capturing long views,
because the wind here does indeed whistle. harmoniously with nature and respecting and the fireplaces are grounding.’
This is confirmed by Kelly Buffey, the the mercurial weather patterns, which can The cottage contains two bedrooms, a
co-founder of Toronto-based architecture change quickly from morning to afternoon, bathroom, and a large lounge, kitchen and
studio AKB, which has recently completed and throughout the seasons,’ says Buffey. dining area, punctuated by a granite fireplace,
a new-build house on the island, a summer The largest of the island’s two docks flags while the guest volume has a similar set-up
escape for a family of three. the property’s primary arrival point. A small but is slightly smaller. The clients worked
When the family approached the practice volume next to it serves as boat storage with Toronto interior designer Anne Hepfer
about building their private retreat, they and home gym. From there, a gangway takes on their furniture selection and overall decor.
were downsizing from a much larger property visitors to another rock outcropping with The architects aimed for their work to sit
in the area. One member is a kite surfer and a large wooden deck that is cut out around lightly on the land, sourcing local materials
a desire to be as close as possible to the water, an existing tree – one of the very few on the and, as much as possible, having everything
alongside an overall wish for simplicity and island, which is mostly made of Precambrian prefabricated or handcrafted (the latter often
a connection to nature, led them to purchase bedrock. The main house’s terrace is placed by necessity as bringing large construction
this islet on Lake Huron. On it, two existing between this and a building housing a sauna. equipment over from the mainland was tricky,
structures hinted at the boundaries for what Meanwhile, a bridge leads to a guest house, particularly as the lake freezes over in winter).
could be built in this sparsely inhabited, or ‘bunkie’, as Buffey refers to it. More sustainable additions include smart
windswept part of the world. It all feels suitably humble, built low in water management, no mechanical heating or
While the area is a popular holiday spot, cedar wood – clad in shingles externally cooling, and ‘greenifying’ parts of the site.
the architecture around Pointe au Baril is, and planks internally. Minimalism in lines, The result is a house that allows its
on the whole, understated and modest, material palette and spirit prevail, and users to feel like they are living within nature,
conceived so as not to detract from the the architects’ attention to detail meant their urban daily life a distant memory.
natural landscape and to remain respectful employing specialist craftsmanship from Visible shoals beneath the lake surface, set
of the existing vistas. Whistling Wind was further afield. ‘Our approach was to create against craggy outcrops, create an attractive
also designed with this in mind, resulting a contemporary reinterpretation of the site’s holiday backdrop for leisurely pursuits, be
in a quartet of small buildings that follow original cabins,’ says Buffey. ‘We referenced they sport, relaxation, or entertaining friends
the style and footprints of the original their traditional elements, but reimagined and family. ‘It’s the kind of place that
structures on the site, as well as the local them. The gabled roofs are asymmetrical, humbles you, reminding you of the power
planning regulations for high water mark appearing windswept in various directions, of nature,’ says Buffey. ∂ akb.ca
Design

IN THE ZONE
The San Francisco live-work space of Indian studio Soft-Geometry
provides the perfect place to work, rest and play
PHOTOGRAPHY: NATE GARCIA WRITER: ADRIAN MADLENER
Left, Soft-Geometry’s ‘Donut’
table and ‘Mirrors for Aliens’
mirror, alongside books,
materials and prototypes

F
or life and creative partners Palaash
Chaudhary and Utharaa Zacharias,
the force behind Soft-Geometry (who
appeared in the USA 300 list in our August
2023 issue), a career-defining quest to infuse
objects with ‘softness’ is as much a reflection
of cross-cultural influence as it is place.
Splitting time between their native India
and adoptive United States, the duo live and
work in a converted 1920s warehouse in
San Francisco’s SoMa neighbourhood.
‘The studio is part of our home, so we
have to be soft with how we treat it,’ says
Zacharias. ‘And our home is part of the
studio, so we can’t be too precious about it
either. We have a photo by German artist
Ole Witt of an Indian lawyer who set up his
office on a scooter, and I think our space
embodies that spirit. It’s a reminder of how
much you can do with a little.’
Because of this spatial dynamic, there’s
flexibility not only in experimenting with
the shape and material properties of a new
concept, but also in getting a sense of how
these designs can be lived with. Having set up
shop here two and half years ago, Chaudhary
and Zacharias have developed collections
such as the ‘Elio’ lamp and ‘Donut’ table.
At this year’s NYCxDesign (New York
Design Week) event in May, the studio will
launch ‘Molecule’, a modular element with
both solid and transparent characteristics
that can be used as a support or function
as a standalone object. The design was
inspired by the practice of handmaking the
intricately-patterned Athangudi tiles that
have clad homes in the south Indian region
of Chettinad for more than a century. Each
‘Molecule’ component is cast in resin and
moulded by hand to form mortise and tenon
joints. As with many of Soft-Geometry’s
undertakings, there’s an intriguing tension
between the use of contemporary industrial
processes and age-old craft traditions.
‘Over the last nine months, our space has
served as the testing ground for this delicate
and complex process, guided as much by
intuition as the technique that constructs
them,’ says Chaudhary. ‘It feels as though our
studio has once again expanded and
transformed to make way for this collection.
Credits

Each unit has been cast, lined up, assembled


and clamped one by one slowly over the »

∑ 115
‘We have a photo by German artist Ole Witt of an Indian lawyer
who set up his office on a scooter, and I think our space embodies
that spirit. It’s a reminder of how much you can do with a little’

Above, an ‘Elio’ lamp, by Soft-Geometry, alongside a ‘Cesca’ chair by Marcel Breuer, in a corner of the studio
Photography: Soft-Geometry

116 ∑
Design

months. It has been rewarding to see our among the prototypes and material samples
studio slowly be inhabited with the colourful are items that the pair have collected over
architecture of ‘Molecule’, reminiscent the years, including red fibreglass armchairs
of those in our hometowns.’ While he hails designed by Vico Magistretti for Artemide
from Ghaziabad, just outside New Delhi, and glassware by Agustina Bottoni.
Zacharias is from Kochi. ‘Our practice is rooted in softness and the
One of the space’s best attributes is its sentimentality of objects,’ says Chaudhary.
large double-height windows that flood the The duo aim to stretch the limits of what
interior with sunlight. ‘Golden light comes everydays objects can do. ‘It can be poetic,
in during the evening and makes everything sometimes chaotic, and deeply personal.’
feel beautiful,’ says Zacharias. ‘It really begs This approach was put to the test last year
for us to be creating. The window’s shadow when they had to go through the arduous
moving along the wall has predictably process of gaining green cards to become US
become our favourite shoot backdrop.’ residents. A set of scratched-up steel thali
Along with zones with workbenches, plates, originally sourced in India, and their
supply storage and a packaging corner, the determination to revive them in a new way,
space also transforms into a photography provided them with a sense of catharsis.
studio from time to time. The lower level ‘Every day, emotionally drained from writing
is loosely organised as a workshop that pages and pages for the application, we would
changes based on the task at hand, and most sand these plates for hours, then check if
of the furniture and equipment has been we could see our reflections,’ says Zacharias.
retrofitted with wheels so that the duo can ‘It gave us a way to reflect on our Indianness,
quickly turn the studio into a dining room our alienness, and the impermanence that
or entertainment space for games nights comes with living on visas.’
with friends. ‘The floors are concrete and The resulting ‘Mirrors for Aliens’ series
can take it,’ adds Zacharias. was exhibited at last year’s NYCxDesign,
Meanwhile, the upper floor is allocated garnering a lot of attention. The designs
as the duo’s bedroom. Though mostly will also be shown by gallery Superhouse
untouched by the activity below, even this during this year’s New York Design Week,
room is sometimes used for photo shoots. and the prototype was recently acquired
‘It’s our favourite spot to photograph a by the San Francisco Museum of Modern
bird’s-eye view of the studio,’ says Zacharias. Art (SFMoMA). ‘It all feels very full circle,
The benefit of operating in a live-work and would have been impossible without
space – especially when one builds furniture everything this space has transformed
and Blueberry, next to a piece from its modular
and objects for the home – is that they get into for us,’ concludes Zacharias. ∂ ‘Molecule’ series. Above, Utharaa Zacharias and
to live with what they produce. Scattered soft-geometry.com Palaash Chaudhary in their San Francisco studio
GOOD MIXER
A site-specific artwork at Hauser & Wirth Somerset serves up a cocktail of salvaged materials

118 ∑
Art

sculpture at Hauser & Wirth


Somerset will be kitted
out with furniture curated
by Paris-based architectural
design firm Laplace

I n 1997, the late German-born Swiss artist Dieter


Roth installed a bar as part of his first exhibition for
the Hauser & Wirth gallery in Zürich, Switzerland.
Fully functional, it was also a performative piece in
its own right, drawing visitors into the installation
by recording and archiving their conversations. Since
then, iterations of the original bar have popped up
around the world, united by their tendency to weave
site-specific materials into their design.
Now, artist Oddur Roth, Dieter’s grandson, is
nodding to this history with a newly rethought Roth
Bar, opening in May at Hauser & Wirth Somerset
to mark the gallery’s tenth anniversary. Artist-in-
residence Roth stays faithful to the original concept
by using salvaged objects and materials in the
composition. ‘The challenge with this is ensuring you
respect the things that are already there,’ says Roth.
‘You don’t want to put in something that hogs all the
attention. It has to be natural. The sculpture has to
grow spontaneously and organically within the
confines of the building it is installed in.’
Roth, who has been living in Somerset since the
start of the year, drew on an eclectic array of materials
for his design, frequenting local flea markets and
reclamation yards. ‘These places are full of things that,
at some point, were very valuable to someone,
and that’s how they managed to escape being a kind of
garbage. You bring these objects together, and use them

‘The objects you see are things you


might know from childhood or
have had in your home. It gives it
a comfortable atmosphere, inviting
you to stay and lose track of time’
as a base for painting, and then the object becomes
irrelevant. But when you bring in people, they
immediately make a connection to some of the objects.’
By imbuing these objects with both an aestheticism
and a different functionality, Roth adds an emotionality
to an interactive design. Not quite an installation, not
quite a social space, yet ultimately, somewhere people
will be keen to spend time, Roth hopes. ‘The objects
you see are things you might know from childhood or
have had in your home. It gives it a comfortable
atmosphere, inviting you to stay and lose track of time.
And then the boundary between what is and isn’t art
becomes unclear. Can I touch this or not? It raises a lot
of questions, like what you are and how things around
you function; it’s not just a straight line through life.’ ∂
Roth Bar will open on 25 May at the Threshing Barn at
Hauser & Wirth Somerset, UK, hauserwirth.com

PHOTOGRAPHY: BJARNI GRÍMSSON WRITER: HANNAH SILVER


A wellness-focused holiday
apartment complex in Mexico offers a
mindful getaway amid the tranquil
curves of its immersive architecture
PHOTOGRAPHY: DOUBLESPACE WRITER: SOFIA DE LA CRUZ

146
120 ∑
Travel

I
Above and opposite, n the endless quest for privacy and With 59 units spread across three levels,
the Babel Tulum holiday
apartment retreat is built
escape from the demands of daily city circulation is optimised to integrate natural
from a plaster that closely life, architects must continue to think light and surrounding views. Meanwhile, the
resembles chukum (a outside the box. For Mexican studio complex’s central tower, which is surrounded
traditional Mayan material), V Taller, such debates led them to design by a circular swimmimg pool, houses the
its earthy, pinkish colour
adding a sense of softness Babel, a holiday apartment retreat near the main communal amenities, as well as taking
pre-Columbian Mayan walled city of Tulum, on the role of sculptural centrepiece.
in Quintana Roo, a Mexican state on the Guadalajara-based interior design firm
Yucatán Peninsula. Located on a once barren Carlos y Pablo used natural materials, such
plot, this restorative retreat is just minutes as locally sourced travertine marble, parota
from the jungle and offers easy access to wood, and organic cotton and linen for
a network of cenotes and the chance to furniture, upholstery and bedding. ‘We
snorkel among vibrant coral reefs. wanted the design details to be contemporary
Babel Tulum is defined by soft curves and but still maintain a Mexican identity. Thus,
an organic colour palette that integrates with we incorporated artwork by Mexico City-
the landscape. The architectural inspiration based photographer Manuel Zúñiga and
draws from the rich heritage of haciendas in handmade pottery by Encrudo, a local brand
Yucatán, particularly in the elegant handling from Jalisco,’ say Carlos y Pablo founders
of arches and vaults that nod to the local Carlos Talamantes and Pablo Villalpando.
vernacular, but with a minimalist twist. Babel Tulum is fast gaining a reputation
V Taller founders Miguel Valverde and in the area for its wide range of wellness
Daniel Villanueva say, ‘We aimed to induce facilities, including a meditation altar, yoga
a sensation of stillness by using only one studio, spa massage cabins and herbal steam
primary material, which would allow the room. Guests can engage in sound baths and
eyes to rest. To achieve this, we chose to immersive experiences in the Zen garden, and
work with a plaster that closely resembles the property also offers an ASMR room with
chukum, a traditional Mayan material, a sleep concierge and a vegetarian restaurant
which provides a sense of softness. serving fresh mocktails. ∂ babeltulum.com
JUNE IS ALL ABOUT...
WANDER LUST

p124
SUCCESS STORIES
Ho Chi Minh City’s ever-evolving narratives
p140
MASTER PLANS
A new London hotel takes sleek engineering to another level
p146
BLACK MAGIC
Showing a dark side at Aman’s Moroccan outpost
p162
FRENCH LEAVE
Our new-look Navigator series lands in Cannes

∑ 123
The Trip
This page, Ho Chi Minh City’s
1966 Independence Palace,
by local architect Ngo Viet Thu,
is considered a paragon of
postcolonial modernism. Its
façade features a bamboo-inspired
stone latticework
Opposite, its interiors have
been left untouched since the
1970s, including this luxurious
cinema room with red velvet
upholstery and padded doors

The sky’s the limit for Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam’s booming metropolis,
where stellar street food, historic alleyways and honking motorbikes now mix
with shiny new skyscrapers, minimalist showrooms and upscale patisseries
Photography JIN JIA JI Writer JOSHUA ZUK AS
∑ 125
The Trip

A
rriving in Ho Chi Minh City for the
first time can feel like a shock to the
system. Decades ago, you might have
spotted bicycles wobbling through
lantern-lit streets and buffaloes
basking in opaque waters, but today, the
modern metropolis is rather different.
As your taxi crawls through the periphery,
besieged by motorbikes, you’ll encounter few
cyclists and no fauna (save, perhaps, the odd
pocket poodle). Instead, you’ll cruise through
hyperactive streets flanked by terraced houses
with ground-floor neon shops. Occasionally,
a glass-clad office or hotel will interrupt the
carnival of mismatched nha ong or ‘tube houses’.
These skinny buildings, which can be less than
3m wide and up to 12 floors tall, have popped
up all around Vietnam as a result of limited
building space and property tax policies. The
only design consistency seems to be deliberate
inconsistency; after all, Ho Chi Minh City is
a city that pushes you to stand out.
Within Ho Chi Minh City’s historic core,
a sense of order emerges. In the early years
of the colonial period (1862-1954), the French
flattened much of the old city, founded
around 400 years ago, and laid down a grid
system that still gives structure to the city
centre. Here you’ll find the city’s more storied
architecture, such as the early 20th-century
Jade Emperor Pagoda, a labyrinthine temple
guarded by magenta walls, or Villa Le Voile,
a flamboyant French mansion that is being
turned into a cultural centre with help from
restoration specialists Stonewest of London
and Palazzo Spinelli of Florence.
Nearby is local architect Ngo Viet Thu’s
Independence Palace, completed in 1966
to replace a bombed French behemoth and
now considered a paragon of Vietnam’s
postcolonial modernism. The style, a branch
of tropical modernism, borrowed minimalist
design ideas from elsewhere in the world
and adapted them to suit Vietnam’s heat and
humidity. Less than a decade later, in 1975,
North Vietnamese tanks rolled through the
palace gates, bringing an end to the two
decades of civil war that erupted after the
French exit. A year later, the former capital
of the defeated and defunct South Vietnam
was bestowed a new name, Ho Chi Minh
City, though the old name, Saigon, has
proved difficult to shake.
The end of the war brought peace, but as
history attests, this has always been a city of
dissonance. Today, the tension lies in what
kind of megacity the Saigonese want Ho Chi
Minh City to be. Later to the development
game than its regional peers, Vietnam is now
one of Asia’s fastest-growing economies, and
Ho Chi Minh City is its urban powerhouse.
Can rapid progress prioritise liveability, respect
heritage and foster creative communities?
‘Although [Saigon’s] rich and layered
history often gets washed away in modern
life, if you know where to look, you’ll uncover
remarkable revelations,’ says Bill Nguyen,
director of Nguyen Art Foundation (NAF), »
This page, Vietnam’s commercial hub, Ho Chi Minh City is home to more than 9 million inhabitants, and at least 7 million scooters and motorbikes
Opposite, the Jade Emperor Pagoda, built in the early 20th century by the local Chinese community, is one of the city’s most visited pagodas

∑ 127
This page, the cityscape as
seen from The View’s rooftop
bar, with, far left, in pink,
Landmark 81, at 461m the
country’s tallest skyscraper;
centre, in white, César Pelli’s
Vietcombank Tower, and
far right, with a cantilevered
helipad, Carlos Zapata’s
Bitexco Financial Tower
Opposite, left, a traditional
Vietnamese drip coffee,
produced using a phin filter
at Lacaph coffee bar. Right,
Michelin-starred restaurant
Anan Saigon’s elegant take
on the banh mi, Vietnam’s
famous baguette sandwich

128 ∑
The Trip

one of the city’s largest contemporary art under threat from developers keen to
collections. Born in Hanoi, Vietnam’s capital, supplant them with apartment blocks. Made
Nguyen moved south in 2017. Ho Chi Minh of organic matter, the ageing artwork will
City, a city of immigrants, ‘has always been warp over time, though nobody can predict
Vietnam’s melting pot,’ he says. ‘What makes exactly how. ‘I can’t control how the work
this place home to me is its embrace of might degrade, but that’s part of it,’ says
diversity and acceptance. Here, you can be Phuong Linh. ‘We can’t know what might
your authentic self without judgement.’ be ruined and what might remain.’
But in a city where you can be anything, The Ho Chi Minh City of today is
almost anything goes. Urbanisation is wild unrecognisable from the Saigon of half a
and rampant, and this sets an example – century ago. This is most evident on the east
and offers a warning – to Vietnam’s other side of the Saigon River, a new development
cities, including the capital. Hanoian artist area attracting big investments and bigger
Nguyen Phuong Linh’s Rubber, Soap, Tobacco, names. Foster + Partners are steering the
a permanent installation at NAF, consists evolution of The Global City, a 117-hectare
of three large cubes made of the titular masterplan with apartments, villas, schools,
commodities, in a commentary on a rapidly hospitals and shopping malls. Meanwhile,
changing urban Vietnam. The smell of the Büro Ole Scheeren is working on an ensemble
installation saturates the small exhibition of biophilic high-rise towers that overlook
room, and as you move around the cubes, the river. The projects are ambitious, but
one scent transforms into the next. Nguyen remains sceptical. ‘I can’t help
Growing up in Hanoi, Phuong Linh would but wonder, who are these projects for?
often cycle past old factories that produced Who can actually afford to live here?’
these commodities. The living wartime Nestled among the mega projects of the
remnants still belch the smells that inspired river’s east bank, homegrown biophilic talent
the artwork and are important reminders is propagating more quietly; this is where
of the country’s industrial heritage, now Vo Trong Nghia of VTN Architects and »
The Trip

Above, a Vietnamese modernist building in District 3 houses local cosmetics brands Thorakao and a branch of Starbucks. Vietnam is the second
largest coffee exporter in the world, but the Seattle-based chain accounts for only a meagre share of the local coffee-drinking market
Above, a group of visitors in front of the Ho Chi Minh Museum, after taking photographs next to a statue representing Ho Chi Minh as a young man.
The women are wearing colourful ao dai outfits, a Vietnamese garment consisting of a long split tunic worn over trousers

∑ 131
The Trip

Above, located near the Opera House, Ivoire is an upscale patisserie specialising in delicate creations such
as this one made with poached apple, yuzu, cara cara orange custard and walnut dacquoise
Above, artist Nguyen Phuong Linh with her artwork Rubber, Soap, Tobacco at the Nguyen Art Foundation in Thu Duc. The installation
references the disappearance of many old factories, which are being replaced by residential developments

∑ 133
The Trip

Nguyen Hoang Manh of Mia Design Studio, the breeze, even the rain can help craft
two of Vietnam’s leading architects, advocate the indoor environment. We don’t want to
a greener vision for Ho Chi Minh City’s fight against nature. We want to embrace it.’
future. Ensconced in headquarters draped in The bioclimatic, seven-floor office building
foliage, they hope to nurture Vietnam’s next seeks to maximise natural light while
generation of community-orientated and minimising heat from the sun, with a tree-
sustainability-focused architects. studded buffer layer and perforated walls.
West of the centre, local firm Tropical The hope, Thi Ngu Ngon says, is that
Space completed the Premier Office in 2022 tenderly connecting office workers with the
using bricks. ‘Our philosophy is about letting outside world will spark creativity.
the natural world in,’ says co-founder Tran Inside the colonial grid and dwarfed by
Thi Ngu Ngon, who was born in Dong Nai, the recently renovated Park Hyatt Saigon,
a province north-east of Saigon. ‘Sunlight, you’ll find A21studio’s The Myst Dong »

This page, Tropical Space’s Premier Office, in Tan Binh, is a bioclimatic, seven-floor building featuring perforated brick walls
Opposite, the minimalist showroom of furniture and homeware brand District Eight, whose works include a chess set
inspired by historical Vietnamese court attire, the ‘Tote’ credenza and the ‘Stilt’ armchair
∑ 135
The Trip

‘Although Saigon’s rich and layered history often gets


washed away in modern life, if you know where to look,
you’ll uncover remarkable revelations’

Khoi, a theatrical example of Vietnam’s


biophilia. The 18-storey hotel’s prominent
feature is a white façade with a patchwork
of large square openings, through which
foliage bursts forth. Step inside, however,
and you’ll discover a subtle lamentation of
the city’s disappeared heritage. A decade ago,
developers destroyed the nearby 200-year-old
Ba Son shipyard to make space for high-rise
apartment buildings. A21studio used
reclaimed materials from the wreckage –
including a giant anchor – to embellish the
hotel’s Bason Café, in a permanent exhibition
that contemplates what was lost, and why.
Repurposing heritage elsewhere in
Ho Chi Minh City is less Frankensteinian,
and probably most visible in the lively and
seductive café culture. Speckling every
district are affordable cafés that occupy
upcycled buildings and spill out on to
pavements. Lacaph seeks to refine
Vietnamese coffee by offering high quality
brews on the first floor of a colonial-era
terraced shophouse. District Eight, a luxury
furniture and homeware brand designing
pieces informed by Vietnamese heritage,
houses a cosy ground-floor café in its
showroom with street-side seating. Architects
SgnhA have injected modern touches into
Okkio Duy Tan, a detached colonial mansion,
and Sipply, a midcentury townhouse, to
convert them into coffee shops.
Some cafés craft sweet treats that bridge
Western and Vietnamese tastes. T3 Architects
restored a modernist residence from the
1950s, rejuvenating lightwells, louvres and
a garden that buffers the building from the
road. Here you can pair your coffee with
artisanal chocolate from The Cocoa Project.
This chocolatier infuses its confections
with provincial zest, like chewy sun-dried
bananas from the Mekong Delta and spicy
pepper from the northern mountains. A few
blocks east, T3 Architects also designed
Ivoire, a chic patisserie, with broad windows
that bathe the lofty floors with natural light.
Though, in essence, a European-style bakery,
Ivoire incorporates tropical fruits such
as guava, pineapple, persimmon and kumquat
into its eye-catching desserts.
Contemporising classic flavours is a
movement that’s in full swing. Vietnam has
long been associated with cheap street eats,
but challenging this outdated perception are
a slew of fine dining restaurants born from
traditional kitchens. At Anan Saigon, »
Above and below, the pedestrian Bui Vien Street is a nightlife hotspot lined with stalls and bars attracting crowds of tourists

Opposite, architects Tran Thi Ngu Ngon and Nguyen Hai Long, of Tropical Space, in the atrium of their Premier Office project

∑ 137
The Trip

which boasts the city’s only Michelin star, restaurant, StudioDuo reimagined the first Below, the atmospheric
you can tuck into elevated versions of floor of a curved heritage corner building interiors of Nén Light, a fine
Vietnam’s best-known street food dishes, that combines art deco and modernist dining restaurant specialising
in hyper-local ingredients
such as banh mi and pho. Over at Nén features. The firm extended the curvature
and inspiring dishes
Light, the team has taken a more daring to the interiors, with ‘natural patterns and
route by composing tasting menus featuring free-form geometry,’ says Arturo Moreno, the Opposite, the courtyard
garden at Mia Design Studio’s
fresh dishes that remain grounded in Spanish architect at StudioDuo who moved
HQ, an airy building with
traditional Vietnamese recipes. to Saigon in 2015. This creates a fluid a façade wrapped in foliage
‘When I arrived in Vietnam [in 2001], the atmosphere boosted by a border of greenery. located in Thu Duc
culinary scene was mostly on the street,’ says The restaurant and nightclub may offer
Photography assistant:
Sarah Nguyen, the French creative director a glimpse of Ho Chi Minh City’s postmodern Jiang Yuhang
at StudioDuo, an architecture and interior future: a hedonistic blend of surviving
With thanks to Lam Nguyen
design practice based in the city. Though she heritage, cosmopolitan clout and evolving
laments the bulldozing of street life to make narratives. ‘Next year marks the fall – or
way for a modern metropolis, she’s observed liberation depending on your point of view
that ‘the change has brought positive things – of Saigon,’ says Bill Nguyen of NAF. ‘It will
like new fusion restaurants that highlight be intriguing to see what kind of narratives
more elaborate cuisine.’ At Yunka, a Nikkei emerge from this event.’ ∂
∑ 139
New London hotel The Emory presents the perfect
showcase of RSHP’s signature functionalist style and
hospitality group Maybourne’s elevated luxury
PHOTOGRAPHY: LEON CHEW WRITER: ELLIE STATHAKI

RSHP’s first encounter with luxury hotel way it was organised. It was about making
group Maybourne happened 20 years ago, strong, rational decisions that would
when the acclaimed architecture studio inform the construction process. What we
was approached to work with it on a new created only exists because of the project’s
entrance for The Berkeley. It resulted in the pragmatic constraints.’
sleek canopy, made of a series of 16 carbon If in doubt about the project’s high level
fibre beams, that elegantly adorn its period- of precise engineering and function-led
inspired façade to this day. Just next to it design, a look at the main façade will
is The Emory, ‘London’s first all-suite hotel’, convince you otherwise. The Emory stands
which opened in Belgravia in April and is proudly overlooking Hyde Park, its
the latest – and largest – product in the captivating network of steel outriggers
long, fruitful relationship that ensued. peeking out from its rooftop-like masts, their
RSHP partner Ivan Harbour was a key slim steel rods running down the clean,
force in the project from day one, alongside functionalist façade, helping to define a neat
the legendary practice co-founder Richard grid of openings for the suites behind it.
Rogers, who remained involved until his Digging deeper (pun intended), the
death in 2021. The Emory’s location is in one way the structure nestles into the earth right
of central London’s most highly sought- next to the tunnels that serve the London
after corners, and naturally it influenced the Underground’s Piccadilly Line without
project’s design development. ‘The Emory transferring vibration to the rooms above is
is part of a family of projects that we created another technical feat. The superstructure
around The Berkeley so, in that context, is built around a steel core that runs the
we were aiming to create something very height and length of the building and
clear on a site that is very dense and already contains the circulation space. Off it, hangs a
fully occupied,’ says Harbour. ‘It had to larger, steel ‘box’, created around a frame by
be something that could be constructed Portuguese specialists Bysteel. This volume
as much as possible off-site, and so it had spans upwards and outwards from level one,
to have a level of rational thinking in the leaving the ground floor free to offer »

140 ∑
Architecture
The RSHP-designed
Emory hotel in
Belgravia features a
visible hanging system
with slim steel rods
running down its
minimalist glass façade
142 ∑
Architecture

unobstructed views of the leafy park vistas


beyond, the sightlines projecting just above
‘The visible steel elements of the hanging
car roofs on the busy road outside. system at the top of the building create a
‘We had to plan the building’s bones
very carefully for safety and stability, of skyline feature, like modern-day chimney pots’
course, but also for flexibility in use,’ Harbour
explains. ‘The building’s hanging system
has to do with balancing the loads on either
side of the site, so there are fewer loads on
the tunnels’ side and no loads on the This page, a detail
neighbouring Berkeley hotel.’ RSHP worked of the hotel’s ABC
with engineers Expedition through the Kitchens restaurant
early conception stages and then with Opposite, the striking
WSP through to construction, carefully pink staircase pays
calculating options that would offer the homage to RSHP
best solutions for the particular site. co-founder Richard
‘The three main opportunities we have Rogers and his love
taken as a result of the building’s hanging of bright colours
system and the roof ’s outriggers are: creating
a panorama on the ground floor, as the
arrangement means it is completely free from
columns; the desire to create an interesting
roof terrace, as placing the visible steel
elements on top makes it a place rather
than just a terrace, and celebrates the
structure; and creating a skyline feature in
the building’s modern-day ‘chimney pots’,’
says Harbour. He explains that The Emory’s
three-dimensional layered façade is part
of a ‘composition’, a gesture that offers a
21st-century interpretation of the ornamental
detailing found on period structures.
If all this feels fresh and forward-thinking,
then stepping inside and experiencing the
hotel for itself strengthens these claims.
The Emory launches as a rare-in-London
hospitality offering, with eight levels of
accommodation (plus a top floor housing a
penthouse and rooftop social spaces), and
each floor featuring just a handful of ‘rooms’
(there’s a total of 60 and every single one
is a suite, comprising living spaces as well
as generous and luxurious dressing and
bathroom options). The structure’s modular
arrangement means that units can be
combined or used separately, and entire floors
can be transformed into a large apartment
complex for a single guest. Four designers –
leading industry names André Fu, Patricia
Urquiola, Champalimaud and Pierre-Yves
Rochon – are involved in creating two floors
each, while London studio Rigby & Rigby
created the penthouse.
‘The concept behind The Emory was
to create a hotel with the same feeling as a
luxury residential setting: discreet, elegantly
restrained and exquisitely private,’ says
Knut Wylde, The Emory’s general manager.
‘Everything is considered with the utmost
care, and part of RSHP’s ingenious design
plan is a special modular layout system
on each floor, which allows multiple suites
to be privately interconnected by closing off
sections of the main corridors, making their
own entrance lobbies. This creates bespoke
‘residences’, offering families (particularly
intergenerational families – an increasing »
‘Part of RSHP’s ingenious design plan is a special modular layout system on
each floor, which allows multiple suites to be privately interconnected’

144 ∑
Architecture

This page, designed by trend) and groups the opportunity to have champions some of the finest treatments
André Fu, the 200 sq m their own inner sanctum within the hotel, for longevity and well-being in town.
Emory Park Suite offers where time becomes the ultimate luxury.’ Even as much of the interior bears a
views of Hyde Park and The ground level also takes a refreshingly variety of creative signatures, the building’s
sleeps up to four people unusual approach. Visitors enter from the RSHP bones allow for everything to coexist
Opposite, The Emory’s side mews street on Old Barrack Yard and in harmony and discretely greet visitors
multilayered façade is a are led through an open-air reception into at various points – from the striking pink
composition offering a a discreet check-in area and ABC Kitchens, staircase, its pop of colour paying homage to
modern take on period a restaurant helmed by renowned chef Jean- Richard Rogers and his love of bright hues,
ornamental details Georges Vongerichten. ‘We wanted an anti- to the thick springs that absorb movement
lobby, a ‘side’ door so, when entering the and are just visible at the entrance level, and
hotel, you first see the circulation spaces and the immaculately precise steel elements that
kitchen, where the employees have as good a surround the rooftop’s two glass pavilions,
view of the park as the diners,’ says Harbour. which are for hotel guest use only.
Rémi Tessier is behind the common ‘We probably underestimate how
areas across the ground level, including the unusual The Emory is,’ Harbour concludes.
restaurant, and rooftop, which contains ‘We do projects all around the world, but
The Emory Cigar Merchants and Bar 33 in this is special. We don’t do many hotels,
its twin glass volumes. The ground-floor and the fact that this is part of a lasting
Emory Bar features a bespoke faceted glass relationship with Maybourne is beautiful.’
canopy by artist Brian Clarke. On the lower- Indeed, full of character and defined by its
ground levels (which extend to four floors, ability to offer choice to its guests, RSHP’s
including a plant level), the expansive and first-ever luxury hotel in London feels like a
minimalist Surrenne wellness members’ rare treat, and is now open for business. ∂
club was also designed by Tessier and rshp.com, the-emory.co.uk
SAHARA NOIR
We’re back to black and staying cool at our Maghreb hideaway
Photography VA LENTIN HENNEQUIN Fashion JASON HUGHES

146 ∑
Fashion
This page, jacket;
trousers, both price on
request, by Bottega
Veneta. Necklace,
£550; necklace, £640,
both by Goossens
Opposite, stole, price
on request, by Alaïa
Fashion
Above, swimsuit, £210, by Vilebrequin. Bangles, from £479, by Alexis Bittar
Opposite, dress, £1,075, by Rick Owens. Shoes, £710, by Jacquemus. Cuff, £318, by Alexis Bittar

∑ 149
Opposite, top, £3,300; skirt, £1,690, both by Louis Vuitton. Earrings, £167, by Alexis Bittar

150 ∑
Fashion
Fashion
Above, dress, €1,978, by Alexandre Vauthier. Earrings, £167, by Alexis Bittar
Opposite, jacket; skirt, both price on request; shoes, £710, all by Jacquemus

∑ 153
Above, jumper, £395, by Luca Faloni. Underwear, £770, by Dior. Earrings, £167, by Alexis Bittar
Opposite, dress, €3,290, by Givenchy. Earrings, £167, by Alexis Bittar

154 ∑
Fashion
Fashion
Above, swimming top, £520; swimming trunks, £430, both by Chanel
Opposite, dress, £2,165, by Ferragamo. Shoes, £710, by Jacquemus. Earrings, price on request,
by Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello. Necklace, £895, by Goossens

∑ 157
Above, bodysuit, £340; leggings, £450, both by Supriya Lele. Shoes, £710, by Jacquemus.
Earrings, £318; bangles, from £479, all by Alexis Bittar. Bangles, from £219, by Dinosaur Designs
Opposite, dress, £9,000, by Prada
For stockists, see page 161

158 ∑
Fashion
Model: Katlin Aas at
Supreme Management
Casting: Ikki Casting at WSM
Hair: Noelia Corral at
Blend Management using
Kevin Murphy Spain
Make-up: Eny Whitehead
at Wise & Talented
using Chanel Beauty
Photography assistant:
Pietro Lazzaris
Fashion assistant:
Lucy Proctor
Special thanks to Amanjena.
Turn the page for more on
our fashion story location
Fashion
Left, Aman’s Amanjena
resort, which is set around
an ornamental lake, was
inspired by Arabic, Berber
and Moorish architecture

Our shoot location for this month’s fashion


story is Aman Resorts’ Marrakech outpost,
Amanjena, which we first covered in our
November 1999 issue (W*23). Twenty five
years on, the rose-hued resort, surrounded
by groves of palm and olive trees, remains the
epitome of a peaceful Moroccan paradise.
Located 7km from the Marrakech medina,
the hotel – the first Aman resort on the
African continent – was designed in 2000
by the late American architect Ed Tuttle,
who was inspired by Arabic architecture and
the Berber practice of creating rammed-earth
structures, as well as more ornate Moorish
building styles. A central reflective lake is
surrounded by shady gardens dotted with
40 standalone guest pavilions and maisons:
one- and two-bedroom villas featuring private
heated pools and gardens, outdoor gazebos
or open fireplaces for chilly evenings. The
tranquility can make it hard to leave, but it’s
not a necessity as a wealth of dining tastes are
catered for in the resort’s restaurants, which
offer Berber, Andalusian and Mediterranean
cuisines, as well as Japanese dishes at poolside
restaurant Nama. Private dining is also
available, either in your pavilion, in an ornate
tent at the resort or under the stars in the
desert, a heavenly experience set against the
backdrop of the Atlas Mountains.
Wellness is always a special focus at an
Aman resort, and at Amanjena, it is no
different: its spa facilities include four private
treatment rooms and two Moroccan-style
hammams, and there is a fitness centre and
two clay tennis courts for the more active.

DESERT ROSE The hotel can also organise a range of guided


excursions to explore the souks of the medina
and the Djemaa el-Fna, as well as the palaces,
Set within an oasis of palm and olive trees, Aman’s Moroccan outpost, gardens and museums of ancient Marrakech.
on the outskirts of Marrakech, is a peaceful palatial paradise aman.com

PHOTOGRAPHY: VALENTIN HENNEQUIN WRITER: SOFIA DE LA CRUZ


Stockists
Right, necklace, £16,740,
by Ananya, see page 146

Alaïa
maison-alaia.com
Alexandre Vauthier
alexandrevauthier.com
Alexis Bittar
alexisbittar.com
Ananya
ananya.com
Aram
aram.co.uk
Baserange
baserange.com
Bottega Veneta
bottegaveneta.com
Brunello Cucinelli
brunellocucinelli.com
Byredo
byredo.com
Celine
celine.com
Chanel
chanel.com
Connolly
connollyengland.com
Delvaux
delvaux.com
Dinosaur Designs
dinosaurdesigns.com.au
Dior
dior.com
Dr Barbara Sturm
drsturm.com
Dries Van Noten
driesvannoten.com
Eres
eresparis.com
Luca Faloni Stella McCartney
Ferragamo lucafaloni.com stellamccartneybeauty.com
ferragamo.com
Manolo Blahnik Supriya Lele
Givenchy manoloblahnik.com supriyalele.com
givenchy.com
Margaret Howell The Grey
Goossens margarethowell.co.uk thegreymensskincare.com
goossens-paris.com
Moroso Util
Hermès moroso.com thisisutil.com
hermes.com
Prada Valentino
Jacob Cohën prada.com valentino.com
jacobcohen.com
Rick Owens Valextra Product credits, see page 037
Jacquemus rickowens.eu valextra.com Agua Drop eau de parfum, £118 for
jacquemus.com 50ml, by Loewe. Liquid Lipstick Matte
Rimowa Van Cleef & Arpels in Martian Dust, £45, by Byredo.
John Lobb rimowa.com vancleefarpels.com Cannabis patchouli hand cream, £35
johnlobb.com for 50ml, by Dries Van Noten. Good
Saint Laurent by Vilebrequin Night supplements, £65 for 60 capsules,
Loewe Anthony Vaccarello vilebrequin.com by Dr Barbara Sturm. Alter-Care
perfumesloewe.com ysl.com supplements, £60 for 60 capsules, by
Wolford Stella McCartney. High On The Beach
Loro Piana Selahatin wolford.com whitening toothpaste, £20; Eukalypse
loropiana.com selahatin.com oral spray, £28, both by Selahatin.
Daily Face Protect SPF50 sun cream,
Louis Vuitton Selfridges £55 for 50ml, by The Grey. Le Vernis
louisvuitton.com selfridges.com nail polish in Sun Drop, £29, by Chanel

∑ 161
Navigator

Where to go: CANNES


In the first of our new-look Navigator travel guide series, we reveal
the highlights of a sojourn in the film capital of France

01

07

06
08

04
03

05

02 09

01. La Croix des Gardes 04. Galerie Hurtebize 07. Maison Callaloo For more inspiring,
Occupying more than For more than 30 years, A ceramics studio that design-led travel stories,
80 hectares of woodland, this gallery has been artfully captures the city’s visit Wallpaper.com ∏
this natural park offers exhibiting the great Mediterranean tones
a magnificent view of names of modern and through clay. Don’t leave
the Riviera landscape. post-impressionist art. without one of its unique
galerie-hurtebize.com bowls, vases or platters.
02. Hôtel Belle Plage @maisoncallaloo
Built in the 1930s, the 05. Forte_Forte
Belle Plage was revitalised A boutique that stands 08. Sens
in 2022 by Raphael Navot out as much for its With its open-plan,
and Faar. The spectacular free-spirited ready-to- stainless steel kitchen,
rooftop restaurant serves wear collections as for concrete flooring and
regional delights by its Robert Vattilana- curvaceous midcentury
Israeli chef Eyal Shani. designed interiors. chairs, Sens brings
hotelbelleplage.fr forte-forte.com a Parisian flavour to
the Côte d’Azur.
03. Table 22 by Mantel 06. Le Bar à Vin sens-restaurant.fr
Combining a love of Open since 1998, this N
art with a love of food, wine bar offers seasonal 09. Le C Club spa
Table 22 has something pairings with regional The serene wellness
for everyone. Ask for the charcuterie and cheeses in centre, at the Carlton CANNES, FRANCE
catch-of-the-day served a cosy setting surrounded Cannes hotel, offers (GMT +1)
with seasonal vegetables by exposed brick and superlative treatments 1 : 23,0oo
from Marché Forville. dark orange walls. and a striking pool.
restaurantmantel.com @lebaravin_cannes carltoncannes.com

162 ∑ ARTWORK: ALBY BAILEY WRITER: IMOGEN GREEN


9000

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