Wallpaper - June2024
Wallpaper - June2024
Wallpaper - June2024
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JUNE
ARCHITECTURE
∑ 017
JUNE
FASHION
FRONT OF BOOK
037 Newspaper
Travel essentials, precious finds and
a handful of unusual destinations
MEDIA
RESOURCES
BEAUTY TRAVEL
DESIGN
120 Shape up
A chill-out complex in Tulum, Mexico
020 ∑
Wallpaper.com
@wallpapermag
EDITORIAL
Editor-in-Chief
Bill Prince
Executive Editor Global Design Director Architecture & Environment Director Fashion & Creative Director Director of Digital Content
Bridget Downing Rosa Bertoli Ellie Stathaki Jason Hughes Charlotte Gunn
Contributing Editors
Tilly Macalister-Smith, Pei-Ru Keh, Lauren Ho (Travel), Mary Cleary (Beauty), Marco Sammicheli, Nick Vinson, Dal Chodha, Amah-Rose Abrams,
Nick Compton, Deyan Sudjic, Ekow Eshun, Emma O’Kelly, Maria Cristina Didero, Hugo Macdonald, Bodil Blain, Suzanne Trocmé
Milan Editor Laura May Todd • Paris Editor Amy Serafin • Japan Editor Jens H Jensen • China Editor Yoko Choy
Singapore Editor Daven Wu • Australia Editor Elias Redstone • Latin America Editor Pablo León de la Barra • Buenos Aires Editor Mariana Rapoport
Publisher
Lloyd Lindo
Business Director
Advertising Kelly Gray Bespoke
Bespoke Director
Sarah-Jane Molony
Advertising Director Watches & Jewellery Account Manager
Miles Dunbar Advertising Director Poppy Tracey Bespoke Art Director
Bespoke Editor
Vicki Morris Olmo R Roces
Simon Mills
Advertising Business Manager Advertising Executive Bespoke Art Editor Bespoke Producers Digital Project Manager
Amanda Asigno Tom Santini Gabriela Sprunt Sebastian Jordahn, Martyna Pieluzek
Anya Hassett
Subscriptions
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CONTRIBUTORS
ANTOINE AND CHARLIE
Photographers
Parisian duo Antoine and Charlie’s work
seamlessly merges the worlds of high fashion
and natural beauty. For this issue, they
‘embraced the unexpected’ to shoot our Van
Cleef & Arpels story (page 102). ‘The day
before, we met our model Diana randomly
in a park,’ they recall. ‘She said that she
was celebrating her birthday that night so
wouldn’t have much sleep, but that she was
very grateful for this shoot, and we found
her adorable for saying that.’ The pair are
currently working on their first book.
ADAM ŠTĚCH
Writer
This month, Czech curator Štěch visited
the modernist gems of Venezuela’s capital
(page 088). ‘This trip was a lifetime dream,
made possible by my guide Alexandra Salas,’
says Štěch. ‘I have visited thousands of
modernist buildings around the world, but
my number one was always Gio Ponti’s Villa
Planchart in Caracas. This house was so
special to me that I chose it as the location
to propose to my girlfriend.’ Thankfully, she
said yes. Our best wishes to the happy couple.
032 ∑
NEWSPAPER
Wallpaper’s hot pick of the latest global goings-on
Photography: Neil Godwin at Future Studios for Wallpaper*
Hermès horses around for a In a nod to Hermès’ equestrian roots graphic motifs, the tableware comes
new porcelain collection as a maker of riding equipment in in a palette that combines the zesty
19th century Paris, the 27 pieces in the tones of lemon and mint with petrol
Stable service luxury maison’s ‘Tressages Équestres’
tableware collection are encircled with
blue and natural hues inspired by leather
and fibres. Curated by Benoît-Pierre
bold, textural patterns inspired by the Emery, creative director of La Table
braiding found in horse harnesses. Set Hermès, the collection includes plates,
against a background of white kaolin cups and bowls in a series of shapes
Above, Hermès’ new tableware collection porcelain that acts as the perfect canvas and sizes that can adapt to various
is inspired by horse harness braiding for French artist Virginie Jamin’s serving needs. hermes.com
A Google installation offers space to A mesmerising new installation at twisting, organic shapes, which span
contemplate and communicate Google’s Charleston East Campus began 10m in height, are made from ultra-thin,
life as an open competition for architects crisp white aluminium, the folds and
Join the dots and artists organised by Burning Man
Project, which runs the annual Nevada
myriad tiny perforations creating an
intricate play of light and shadow.
festival. The work of New York The structure is designed as a point of
computational design experts The Very engagement for both Google employees
Many, led by architect Marc Fornes, and the local public, offering moments
Above, The Very Many’s pavilion for Google, ‘The Orb’ marks the point where public for them to slow down and be distracted
in ultra-thin, self-supporting aluminium and privately-owned space intersect. Its from devices. theverymany.com
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Danish-designed sunglasses When packing for a summer holiday, lenses, available in a variety of hues.
that put others in the shade lightness should always be favoured. It’s the kind of utilitarian Danish design
These sunglasses, from Lindberg’s that remains a cornerstone of Lindberg
Travel light Sun Titanium collection, make for a
particularly featherweight addition to
today. And, like much of the country’s
design output, from furniture to textiles,
your carry-on. A gently faceted riff functionality meets a sleek, timeless
on the aviator, they feature the Danish aesthetic, making for sunglasses that
brand’s signature screwless hinge will be your travelling companion for
Above, sunglasses, from the Sun Titanium and the finest quality UV-protective years to come. lindberg.com
collection, £405, by Lindberg
A crafty new candle collection Leaning on its design principles, which Matthieu Blazy, which dramatically
tells some moving stories are deeply rooted in artisanal craft, sways and shifts with every movement
Bottega Veneta has launched a striking of the body. Each of the three scents
Melting moments new candle collection, housed in
handmade, glazed jars, and dipped in a
(Ambery Leather, Green Floral and
Woody Spicy) is made of essential
kaleidoscope of vibrant colours. The oils extracted from plants and blended
candles appear to be literally melting, by hand into mineral wax, while the
the finish referencing motion, in a nod jars themselves are refillable, allowing
Above, candle in Ambery Leather, to the intricate leatherwork of the for multiple uses across the home.
£320, by Bottega Veneta Italian fashion house’s creative director bottegaveneta.com
A precious jewellery collection Jewellery designer Dina Kamal is driven makes it an elegant foil for the diamonds.
drawn from a fighting spirit by a desire for architectural forms in For Kamal, jewellery is armour, and
her creations, which sees her draw curves she draws on a wealth of historical and
Battle dress in 18ct gold, punctuate broken loops with
diamonds, and sink pearls into puffed
cultural references to create her offbeat
pieces. Here, a grid of brushed beige
quilts of beige gold. Kamal prefers to gold dotted with diamonds conforms
work in 18ct beige gold, otherwise known to her cornerstones of proportion,
as raw white gold. ‘It’s 18ct gold without structure and beauty, while imbuing
Above, Square Webbed Mid ring with copper, the true white gold,’ she says, the traditional ring with a precious
round-cut diamond, £7,820, by Dina Kamal remarking that its understated sheen power all its own. dinakamal.com
S
hiro Kuramata famously viewed his two decades, ‘A Microcosmos of Memory’, backs of transparent acrylic, as well as a
designs as transient, fragile, fleeting, recently finished at the Setagaya Art missing component in one of the four legs.
never expecting the immateriality of Museum, before heading to the Toyama The bar is believed to be one of the few
his creative vision to last for long. Prefectural Museum of Art & Design. remaining Kuramata spaces open to the
Today, as Kuramata anticipated, few The bar first came to life in 1988, just public in Japan. Umenoki, the Tokyo sushi
of the countless interiors that he dreamt up three years before Kuramata’s death, and it restaurant designed by Kuramata in the
have survived since his death in 1991. was one of a series of projects that he worked 1970s, is currently closed, while another sushi
One space, however, is still around and on in Shizuoka, a scenic region famed for restaurant, Kiyotomo, was relocated to the
now back on the creative radar: a cocktail its green tea production and traditional M+ art gallery in Hong Kong a decade ago.
bar called Comblé, in the city of Shizuoka, crafts. A desire by Kuramata to keep the The bar’s owner, Masahiko Nakayama,
a few hours west of Tokyo on Japan’s Pacific space as a ‘cube’ underpins the design, says, ‘The bar never feels old. Even after
Ocean coast. Located on the first floor of an with two transparent plastic sheets folded 30 years, it still feels fresh. I love how, despite
otherwise nondescript building, the bar together creating the large, arced curve of the presence of numerous materials and
displays Kuramata’s signature use of geometry a ceiling that appears to float – an effect different colours, it doesn’t feel chaotic.
and sweeping curves fused with floating enhanced by backlighting the material. Instead, it presents a harmonious world.’
components, a bold palette and striking A lighting system by Ingo Maurer can For him, the goal is simple: to offer visitors
materials such as acrylic, glass and terrazzo. also be found on the back wall, while the a peaceful, relaxed and calm experience in
The bar is one of the few intact Kuramata- terrazzo floor contains light-emitting diodes. this unique space. ‘Of course there are local
designed interiors known to still exist, and There are playful blocks of colour, embodied residents that are frequent visitors. There
a growing number of fans are making a by a vivid red aluminium wall panel, a are also lots of customers from the design,
pilgrimage to experience the space first-hand. curvaceous counter in yellow fibre-reinforced interior and architecture worlds. And there
Its reopening coincides with a revival in polymer, and the blue legs of the circular are many pure Kuramata design fans. People
interest in the designer’s work: his first bar tables. Equally eye-catching are the bar come from all over Japan to see the bar.’ ∂
solo retrospective in Tokyo in more than stools, with their near-invisible half-moon @comble.bar
060 ∑
Newspaper
Travel
Staff meeting
A gathering of walking sticks and canes, arranged
by Keiji Takeuchi, offers new ways of stepping out
PHOTOGRAPHY: PAOLA DOSSI WRITER: DANIELLE DEMETRIOU
062 ∑
Design
This page, from top,
‘Stock’ by Cecilie Manz; Design diversity underpins the end results
‘Cadorna’ by Julien Renault; (some of which were self-produced, others
‘Small Gestures’ by made by Japanese furniture makers
Julie Richoz; and ‘Gianni‘
by Marialaura Irvine Karimoku, sponsors of the exhibition) – a
Opposite, the exhibition also reflection of their range of ages and creative
included, from left, ‘Up’ by perspectives, spanning from the ingeniously
Keiji Takeuchi; ’Bamboo’ by functional to poetically escapist.
Jasper Morrison; ‘Threads’ by
Alban Le Henry; a bio-based
Among them is ‘Milanese’, by architect
rigid cellulose walking stick and designer Maddalena Casadei, who crafted
by Ville Kokkonen; and ‘Passi a walnut wood stick, connected by magnets
d’Oro’ by Pierre Charpin
and internal thread, with a minimal stainless
steel handle for hooking on tabletops.
For his ‘Passi d’Oro’ stick, French artist
and designer Pierre Charpin painstakingly
wrapped a golden thread around a hazel wood
stick, describing it as ‘the companion for
my wanderings in dreams, where spatial
perception is hazy and uncertain’.
Alberto Meda, now in his late seventies,
was inspired by weightlessness – resulting in
‘Lightwalk’, a functionally ergonomic carbon
fibre stick with an anti-slip rubber foot and
‘It’s not possible to go back in time to the nylon handle tilted for comfort.
very first cane. We can only imagine it started Meanwhile, Julie Richoz created ‘Small
with someone picking up a small branch, Gestures’, a stainless steel tube with a pen cap
trimming off the smaller twigs, and using it in the base, a piece of rope wrapped around it
for a walk in the woods.’ Japanese designer and some flowers inserted at the top, inspired
Keiji Takeuchi’s musings on walking sticks by ‘the gesture of picking a flower on a hike’.
– simple in form, yet complex in the nuanced Cecilie Manz’s words are as simple and
layers of its associations with ageing today honest as the object’s form: ‘A walking stick
– form the foundation for a project exploring for when I get older.’ A clean-lined aluminium
a spectrum of personal takes on the object. stick is capped by a horizontal handle,
Takeuchi, based in Milan since 2012, asked lightly oval to the touch, through which a
17 designer friends around the world – among simple cord is threaded. ‘I thought it should
them, Cecilie Manz, Pierre Charpin, Jasper be really neutral, clean and functional,’
Morrison and Marialaura Irvine – a seemingly explains the Danish designer.
simple question: what kind of walking stick Meanwhile, Jasper Morrison made a stick
would they wish to use themselves? from bamboo in his garden, placing a wine
The end result was ‘Walking Sticks & cork in the base. ‘I wanted to make it myself,
Canes’, staged at Triennale during Milan as if there were no walking sticks available
Design Week. It showcased Takeuchi and his commercially.’ He adds, ‘Bamboo is so
friends’ interpretations of the object, each versatile. It’s the most extraordinary material
with its own unique personality expressed – it grows fast, costs nothing and can be
through material, shape and form. trained to do so many different things.’
‘A number of years ago, I was thinking a Another example is the Portuguese-born,
lot about what design is, about how it should Copenhagen-based designer Hugo Passos’
be approachable for everyone and about ‘Cestino’ – a cherry wood stick wrapped in a
creativity, not money,’ explains Takeuchi. wicker basket – its joyful romanticism more
‘I wanted to create an icon for these thoughts. typically associated with youth than the
I like things that are simple and primitive, ageing connected with walking sticks.
universal and purposeful. Then I remembered ‘I wanted to add something a little bit joyful
my grandfather’s walking stick. And I began to growing old,’ he says. ‘As you get older,
to notice more and more people in Milan you probably would like to have a house
walking on cobblestones with walking sticks. with a little back garden – and go out in the
‘In the past, walking sticks were primitive morning and pick some herbs or vegetables
objects. Moses had a stick in the Bible. for lunch while enjoying a bit of sun.”
Napoleon and other commanders always had For Takeuchi – whose own ‘Up’ stick
sticks. In the 19th century, it was a fashion consists of a simple, solid curve of sakura
item, particularly among English gentlemen. wood, with a paper cord grip – the project
Then there was Charlie Chaplin. It’s been a is ultimately about deconstructing
reference for many different kinds of power. preconceived ideas about objects and
‘But today, there is a stigma attached to creating timeless honest design. ‘It’s asking
walking sticks. If you give one to someone, it the question: how do you make a product
implies that they are old and unable to walk. with a stigma attached to it – and how
A lot of walking sticks also focus on physical can we change it into a purposeful product
performance and don’t look nice. So I asked that makes you want to go outside and
my friends, if you had to go for a walk with a walk with your friends again?’ ∂
stick, what would you want it to be like?’ keijitakeuchi.com
Architecture
∑ 065
Architecture
W
hen a Swedish family was looking for Above, the ground floor piece of architecture, folding talent and ideas from
adopts a series of level changes
a modern, low-maintenance holiday between the entry, courtyard
across the island into its creative process.
retreat on Bali, they turned to The Lennon and living area, mimicking the It’s a flexible, inclusive and culture-led approach
Project, headed up by Sam Lennon. The Auckland- local terraced rice paddy fields that the owners are keen to keep alive. The family’s
over which the house looks
based architecture studio then set out to balance the two grown-up children often visit separately with
requirements of its clients with the island’s rhythms, their friends, while on other occasions, the parents
traditions and overall culture, bringing everything join them. At the same time, the clients plan to make
together effortlessly in Tegel House, which feels like their house available to visiting artists – for example,
a natural addition to its neighbourhood, Canggu, to those invited to show work in Gordon’s new
a buzzy resort on the island’s south coast. gallery, Sun Contemporary, which has just opened
Following extensive research, the family had landed in Canggu. In exchange for their stay, visitors would
on their dream plot, which sat next to a house also leave a piece of their art in the home.
designed by the studio. ‘They liked the aesthetic of this ‘As the project unfolded, diverse artists became
house and asked the owners for my details,’ recalls integral to the process, each contributing their unique
Lennon of the first conversations back in 2020. creativity to shape the perfect dwelling,’ say the clients.
The site, even though located in a high-density area, ‘This decision isn’t just about opening our doors; it’s
overlooks a green belt of protected land, which consists a celebration of artistic expression and a desire to foster
of terraced rice paddy fields still in use by farmers. It an ever-evolving canvas within our walls. The hope
was these views and the island’s slow pace, green nature is that, with each visit, there’s a new masterpiece
and pleasant climate that the owners wanted to make waiting to be discovered, making Tegel House a living
the most of, asking the architects to create a retreat testament to the intersection of architecture,
that embraces local styles and materials, while avoiding sustainability and the endless possibilities of art.’ ∂
pastiche interpretations of the island vernacular. thelennonproject.com
066 ∑
Capacious weekend bags for navigating airport departures in style
PHOTOGRAPHY: ROSIE HARRIET ELLIS FASHION: JASON HUGHES
068 ∑
Fashion
Below left, Celine wears swimsuit, £460, by Eres. Bag, £3,800, by Delvaux.
Necklace, £590; cuff, £405, both by Goossens
Below right, Hamaam wears jacket; top; jeans, all price on request, by Valentino.
Bag, price on request, by Valentino Garavani. Mules, £625, by Manolo Blahnik
‘Nelson’ bench, from £809, by George Nelson, for Vitra, from Aram
Opposite, Celine wears bikini top, £270, by Eres. Skirt, £1,620; bag (worn on shoulder), £3,060,
both by Loro Piana. Bag (holding in hand), £1,700, by Connolly. Suitcase, £1,290, by Rimowa
070 ∑
Fashion
072 ∑
Fashion
074 ∑
Fashion
Below left, Celine wears top, £920; skirt, £1,570; belt, £395; cuffs, from £835;
bag, £2,745, all by Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello
Below right, Tim wears top, £59, by Baserange. Jeans, £370, by Jacob Cohën. Shoes, £1,330,
by John Lobb. Bag, £2,050, by Ferragamo. Sunglasses, £607, by Brunello Cucinelli
‘Nelson’ bench, from £809, by George Nelson, for Vitra, from Aram
Opposite, Hamaam wears shirt, £1,160; trousers, £1,100; bag
(resting head on), £3,150; bag, £4,800, all by Prada
Face the travails of travel with capacious getaway bags that do the heavy
lifting – whether navigating airport delays or lost hold luggage, these roomy,
wear-forever weekend bags will carry much more than you’ll ever need
076 ∑
Fashion
Models: Celine at Ikon
Model Management,
Hamaam Pelewura at Elite
London, Tim V at D1Lon
Casting: Jonathan Johnson
Hair: Mike O’Gorman
using Sam McKnight
Make-up: Nina Sagri
using Ranavat
Manicure: Edyta Betka
using Kure Bazaar
Set design: Kei Yoshino
at Bryant Artists
Interiors: Olly Mason
Photography assistants:
Garth McKee, Genoveva
Arteaga-Rynn
Fashion assistant:
Lucy Proctor
Set assistant: Ryosuke Hirano
Interiors assistants:
Archie Thomson, Ady Huq
Digital and retouching:
David Barreiro
Wallpaper* Bespoke
INNER
PEACE
A Hong Kong hotel gets
a new look, offering serenity
and style at every level
Canopy House reads like the definition of recharge, connect with nature and meet up
a ‘retreat’. Designed by Studio MK27, the with family. It is now a well-used holiday
home is not only set in serene countryside but home frequented by the clients, a couple and
engulfed in south-eastern Brazil’s Atlantic their three children and grandchildren.
Forest, seemingly about to completely vanish Unsurprisingly, the plot was key to the
into the foliage at any moment. Its thick residence’s design. ‘This kind of project is
veil of greenery makes it both discreet and always very difficult,’ explains studio founder
secluded, even though the site is about five Marcio Kogan, who has led works within the
minutes from the beach and a quick two- rainforest before, such as Casa Azul (W*278).
hour drive from central São Paulo. ‘The authorities only let you design in part
The project was a commission from of the plot. It’s a surgical procedure. But it is
a client who wanted a private escape to great because you are surrounded by trees.’ »
080 ∑
The architect worked on this project al fresco living room offering an immersive Above, the top-floor
alongside Studio MK27’s Marcio Tanaka, experience of the forest. On the first floor, living area, with a bespoke
bookshelf, pendant lights
Regiane Leão and Gustavo Ramos, and Diana five bedrooms and a TV room are placed and dining table by
Radomysler, who heads the studio’s interior in a row, and open on to a large balcony Studio MK27, and ‘Oscar’
design department. She adds, ‘It was also very furnished with three comfortable hammocks. dining chairs by Sergio
Rodrigues. The lounge
tricky in construction terms.’ To avoid having At the top, the main living space is half open area features, from left,
to dig extensive foundations and to respect to the elements, and half enclosed, yet fully a ‘Verônica’ chair by
Jorge Zalszupin, ‘Jangada’
the existing environment, the team decided connected to nature through swathes of armchair by Jean Gillon,
to raise the home on concrete columns. glazing. This expansive terrace offers a perfect ‘Soft’ sofa by Baba Vacaro,
As a result, the ground level has a bird’s eye view of the canopy, and a glimpse ‘Vivi’ armchairs by Sergio
Rodrigues, and a ‘Gota’
relatively small footprint, mostly consisting of the sea beyond (yet remains carefully fireplace by Construflama
of some service and storage areas, and an concealed from the nearest neighbour).
082 ∑
Architecture
Below, the top-floor On every floor, open-air spaces break up the with the former having a softer, warmer
terrace is furnished
with pieces by Brazilian
interior – in the shape of terraces, gardens, feel, more suitable for a domestic space.
architect Carlos Motta, walkways and a set of sculptural circular Another critical element in the brief was
including a ‘Rio Manso’ staircases. It was an important part of the the fact that the client not only owned an
sofa and armchairs,
and ‘Parati’ and
concept, the architecture team points out. extensive collection of Brazilian art and
‘Astúrias’ armchairs ‘The indoor spaces are always connected to craftwork, but they wanted to fill their home
an outdoor space, like the first-floor balcony. with it, adding Brazilian furniture and objects
The hammocks, which are produced by too. Examples include pieces by Zanine
local craftsmen in Paraíba, in north-eastern Caldas, Carlos Motta and Brunno Jahara,
Brazil, for [local brand] Santa Luzia, create as well as some designs by Studio MK27. ‘It
this contemplative area,’ says Ramos. The was a special moment for me when we put
terrace linking all the bedrooms is also the everything in, and found the right place
main circulation space between them and the for each piece,’ says Radomysler.
living spaces. ‘So, to get to the bedrooms from Through its content, context and design
the living room, you have to go out,’ explains intention, Canopy House is a home that is
Kogan. ‘This way, you can always hear the entirely of its place in more ways than one.
birds, and the wind through the trees, and It is a retreat defined by its openness –
the sound of the rain,’ Ramos adds. something that the clients were keen to
The architects also designed a perforated establish from the get-go, but also something
breeze block for the project. It makes up the Kogan remembers fondly from his experience
first floor’s long side wall, offering yet another there, if with a slight trepidation. ‘I couldn’t
option to connect with the environment, relax,’ he laughs. ‘The comfortable chairs,
while also helping with natural ventilation. the view, the colourful birds, the rainforest
The fairly restricted material palette sounds... This place is just perfect.
(concrete, South American pine timber Nevertheless, I was always tense wondering if
and basalt stone) creates a minimalist interior some rainforest animal would appear!’ ∂
language that does not detract from the studiomk27.com.br. The first monograph on the
spectacle of nature outside. Still, the studio’s work, ‘The Architecture of Studio MK27.
architects ensured that indoor and outdoor Lights, Camera, Action’, $65, is out now,
surfaces and treatments were distinct, published by Rizzoli, rizzoliusa.com
Beauty
084 ∑
Tired from our demanding daily life, we check into a Swiss wellness retreat
to explore its programme designed to restore optimal energy levels
WRITER: HANNAH TINDLE
This page, for those with chronic muscle and joint pain, Neurac therapy uses a sling system to support the body during physio
Opposite, photobiomodulation is a form of light therapy that can promote tissue repair, reduce inflammation and give pain relief
T
he Recover and Energise Programme and suites, with sound and lighting settings
offered at the Chenot Palace in designed to help you wake up or settle down,
Weggis, Switzerland, has been as well as an extensive ‘pillow menu’.
‘created for those who are feeling fatigued The Recover and Energise Programme
from a demanding daily life’ – a condition involves a week of treatments designed to
that many of us can identify with. reduce chronic stress and fatigue, improve
Designed to restore vitality and slow sleep and restore energy levels. These include
the ageing process, the Chenot Method medical and nutritional consultations,
was devised by the late acupuncturist resulting in a custom-designed detoxifying
and intuitive diagnostician Henri Chenot diet, as well as body composition analysis,
in 1974. He first introduced his signature bio-energetic treatments, stress tests and
practice in Cannes, before relocating to digital infrared thermal imaging sessions.
Alto Adige in Italy. As Dr George Gaitanos, Every day, the following becomes a ritual:
Chenot’s chief operating and scientific some hydro-aromatherapy, involving a
officer, explains, ‘Our bodies are capable warm bath with water jets that massage
of living up to 120 years of age. But during each muscle, followed by a treatment where
this journey, it is important to maintain you are slathered in a seaweed-based mud,
functionality. DNA doesn’t repair itself, and wrapped in plastic and linen and then put
you start deteriorating. So, the whole idea to rest on a bubbling water bed that sinks
with the Chenot Method is, what can we beneath you. After this, it’s a hose down
do to reset and restore the body?’ with a hydro jet, which feels a little like
The full method is put into practice at a thousand tiny little hands slapping you
the flagship property of the Chenot group with force. A bio-energetic massage – which
in Switzerland, which opened in 2020 on incorporates full-body cupping – takes the
the shores of Lake Lucerne. Renovated and diagnostics from the initial check-up and
extended by local practice Davide Macullo ‘rebalances energy levels’ using the principles
Architects, the hotel now boasts 72 rooms of Chinese medicine. Then, there’s the
086 ∑
Beauty
∑ 089
This page and opposite, designed by Cipriano Domínguez in 1948 still holds the original drawings for the
designed by Gio Ponti as a model for a multipurpose building. It Unesco-protected complex at the family
for a Venezuelan art dominates the city skyline with its huge twin home, Casa Caoma, completed in 1953.
collector couple, towers and sunshade-covered façades. Its A blend of a traditional colonial house
Villa Planchart is often
mosaic-clad, curved forms showcase the and 20th-century functionalism, it contains
considered one of
the Italian architect’s
flamboyant nature of Venezuelan modernism. cherished pieces by the likes of Charlotte
masterpiece works The poster child of the local architecture Perriand and Alexander Calder.
movement was Carlos Raúl Villanueva. His A young generation of Venezuelan
signature project, Ciudad Universitaria, was architects saw the potential of the post-war
built in stages during the first half of the economic boom. Among them was Tomás
1950s. Supported by Pérez Jiménez, it aimed José Sanabria, who built the elegant Hotel
to be the most innovative university campus Humboldt, with its circular tower, on top of
in Latin America. Villanueva designed the El Ávila in 1957. A recent refurbishment has
majority of the buildings and commissioned breathed new life into the hotel, which had
artists to contribute site-specific works. The been closed for years. Other period greats
most famous of these is in the interior of the were Jan Gorecki and Dirk Bornhorst,
Aula Magna auditorium, where Villanueva’s authors of the never-completed El Helicoide
friend Alexander Calder designed a series of building (designed as a state-of-the-art mall,
colourful acoustic ceiling panels. Jean Arp, the site later became infamous as a prison);
Victor Vasarely and Venezuelan artist Mateo Narciso Bárcenas, known as the ‘Specialist’,
Manaure, who created a multicoloured piece who designed a series of decorative
for the university hospital, also worked on apartment buildings; and Fruto Vivas, who
the campus. Villanueva’s daughter Paulina mixed local materials and bold, suspended »
090 ∑
Architecture
Architecture
This page, detail of an artwork by
Alejandro Otero on the Concha
Acústica, an outdoor amphitheatre
designed by Julio Volante in 1954
Opposite, Villa Planchart’s bold
interiors are complemented by
Gio Ponti furnishings, such as these
high-backed chairs, and artworks
from the owners’ collection
094 ∑
Architecture
Below, designed by Cipriano constructions. Vivas is most famous for is also embellished with colourful symbols
Domínguez in 1948, the Centro his Club Táchira, which he built in 1955 in depicting the sun, moon, leaves, birds
Simón Bolívar encompasses a collaboration with Spanish structural and flowers. Similar imagery appears
pair of 32-storey towers, each engineer Eduardo Torroja. elsewhere in the villa. A colourful, dramatic
measuring 103m in height Foreign architects were also attracted living area, connects to a central atrium,
Opposite, office block Torre to Caracas in the 1950s. The most famous a kind of al fresco living room, dominated
América, designed by Carlos example is Gio Ponti. His Villa Planchart, by a ceramic mosaic by frequent Ponti
Gómez de Llarena and Moisés also known as El Cerrito (The Little Hill), collaborator, sculptor Fausto Melotti. Huge
Benacerraf in 1978, sports currently survives in its original state. It pieces of colourful marble cover the floor,
a striated surface to reduce
was commissioned in 1953 by art collectors from which emerge bespoke pieces of
traces of water on the concrete
Anala and Armando Planchart, who worked sculptural furniture, such as a dining table
closely with the architect throughout the and a flower pot, planted with tropical
build. Many of the construction elements vegetation, by the eminent Brazilian
were made in Italy by Ponti’s trusted landscape architect Roberto Burle Marx.
craftsmen, and then shipped to Caracas. More works by Ponti in town include
The structure looks like a butterfly, and Villa Arreaza, designed in a similar spirit
features white mosaic-covered walls, finely- to Planchart, which was demolished in the
shaped corners and a raised overhanging 1990s; Villa Guzman-Blanco, which still
roof that cuts a crisp figure, contrasting exists, but which Ponti distanced himself
with the lush tropical landscape around it. from due to arguments with the client; and
However, the interior is the project’s real Villa La Barraca, a 1940s house that Ponti
showstopper. Elegant typography marks redesigned in the 1950s. Virtually unknown,
the owners’ initials at the entrance, which this house still features the architect’s »
Architecture
Above, the Paseo Las Mercedes shopping centre, designed by Jimmy Alcock in 1967
Opposite, Floating Clouds, 1953, by Alexander Calder, comprises many colourful acoustic panels that
adorn the ceiling of the Aula Magna auditorium at the Ciudad Universitaria ∑ 097
Architecture
‘Casa González Gorrondona, designed for a lawyer by Richard Neutra,
was completed in 1965 on the slopes of El Ávila, its steel and glass
structure bringing a midcentury Californian vibe to Venezuela’
Opposite, underneath the built-in furniture, colourful ceramic tiled relative social stability (until the mid-1970s,
Centro Simón Bolívar, which floor and laminated doors and walls. when the oil crisis began). This period is
is suspended above the Following the success of Ponti’s work in defined by larger-scale schemes, such as
ground on stilts, are a series of Caracas, other world-famous architects were the Parque Central Complex by Henrique
plazas, walkways, commercial
commissioned by Venezuelans for projects Siso Maury and Daniel Fernandez-Shaw,
outlets and parking areas
in the city. Richard Neutra built his largest- and Teatro Teresa Carreño by Tomás Lugo,
ever residence in Caracas for lawyer José Dietrich Kunckel and Jesús Sandoval. The
Joaquín González Gorrondona. Alto Claro latter is a brutalist masterpiece decorated
(or Casa González Gorrondona) was with works by kinetic artist Jesús Rafael de
completed in 1965 on the slopes of El Ávila, Soto, whose large-format sculptures can be
its steel and glass structure bringing a seen all around Caracas. The same era
midcentury Californian vibe to Venezuela. includes Jorge Castillo’s experiments in
Americans Wallace K Harrison and prefabrication, such as his own home, Casa
Bruce Alonzo Goff also worked in Caracas. en El Amarillo, and Casa Mara, which he
Sadly, Goff ’s gigantic Ignacio Perez house was built in polyester reinforced with fibreglass.
never built, but one of his pupils, Alejandro The building system is still in use today.
Pietri, would go on to make a mark on From the 1970s onwards, architectural
Venezuela’s organic architecture instead. styles in Caracas started moving towards
Born into a wealthy family, and an admirer of high-tech and postmodernism. These
Frank Lloyd Wright and Goff, Pietri designed movements’ influences can be seen in the
some of the city’s most experimental architecture of the 1978 Centro Banaven,
structures, including the concrete Mariperez designed by Philip Johnson and John Burgee.
cable car station, connecting the city with Nicknamed the ‘Black Cube’, the cascading
El Ávila national park; the exceptional administrative building, with its mirrored
Los Morochos apartment building, with its façade, features another Jesús Rafael de Soto
concrete grid façade; and the Gothic-inspired artwork. Postmodernism came to symbolise
Los Moros. His 1963 Quinta La Margarita Venezuela’s most prosperous era, before
is probably the most successful reincarnation Hugo Chávez came to power and completely
of Goff ’s organic poetry. changed the direction of this beautiful
During the 1960s and 1970s, Venezuelan country, and its capital, which has turned
architecture continued to flourish under the out to be one of the richest architecture
new democratic system, which resulted in laboratories of the 20th century. ∂
∑ 099
Talking point
100 ∑
Design
N
ice pen.’ Two words, but in Steven The Montblanc Meisterstück has, through precious white resin cap design, reminiscent
Zaillian’s recent remake of Patricia its first modern century, continued to fit the of dissolving ink, is surrounded by the
Highsmith’s The Talented Mr Ripley, hand of history, an achievable luxury that respective colour tone of each new pen.
weighty with symbolism. With its satisfyingly speaks for all echelons of society, from office You could argue that 2024 is a happily
rich feel, glossy good looks and authoritative workers to presidents and film stars alike. pertinent year for Montblanc to take stock,
associations, the black resin pen that Tom To celebrate the pen’s centenary, the because the Meisterstück’s trajectory is, in
Ripley had just stolen from his friend is a multi-pillar luxury house, known today as a way, a symbol of our new modernity. It was
Montblanc Meisterstück, easily identified by much for its fine leather and watch offerings created post-World War I, in 1924, for the
its white ‘star’ top. And, as the deceptive as its legendary writing instruments, has nascent modern office manager. Today, in
Ripley knows, that pen, instantly recognisable launched a commemorative series that draws our post-pandemic years, the lure of the fine-
by the concierge of an opulent Italian hotel, on elements of the original designs as well as writing instrument is undimmed. A resolute
Photography: Neil Godwin at Future Studios for Wallpaper*
is a passport to a new, rarefied world. imaginative flourishes gleaned from archive object of classic technology and absolute
While apparently unintended, the pen’s editions that never saw the light of day. craftsmanship, it has accrued a new status
appearance throughout the series is a fitting The number ‘4810’ engraved on the two- in an era when the art of writing and
tribute to an object now in its 100th year. tone gold nib as a reference to the height of journalling is delighting new generations.
The Meisterstück pen was born in Hamburg, the Mont Blanc mountain, for instance, made ‘Handwriting is, after all, a joyful form
when the house traded under its original, its debut in the 1920s, while the slinky, cigar- of self-expression,’ says Montblanc’s chief
supremely art deco name: Simplo. The name shaped barrel and the three gold rings that marketing officer, Vincent Montalescot.
Montblanc, ‘the highest peak in the Alps’, delineate the refill screw emerged in the 1940s ‘The ritual of putting words on paper, by
reflecting the brand’s dedication to achieving and 1950s. Each new design is decorated with hand, exploring personal creativity,
peak quality, came when Simplo realised its a nib emblazoned with ‘100’ (Montblanc nibs slowing down, must be appealing to digital
simple black ‘safety’ pen was a hit. Cleverly have always been handmade in gold), as well natives who are used to a fast-paced online
engineered to prevent ink spillage while as the milestone dates, 1924 and 2024. The existence. Whether writing a note in a few
tucked in an office manager’s suit pocket, it Meisterstück logo is also elegantly engraved words or, perhaps, a long, heartfelt letter,
had become a cult hit with customers, who along the side of the pen cap. A marbled either way, the result could be something
requested a deluxe design edition for use on finish adopted in the early Meisterstück long-lasting that is worth keeping.’ ∂
‘Sundays’. The summit had been reached. designs also makes a reappearance, while the montblanc.com
Watches
102 ∑
Above, Frivole rose gold earrings with diamonds, £16,000; Ludo Secret rose gold watch with diamonds, price on request;
Frivole rose and white gold ring with diamonds, £18,200, all by Van Cleef & Arpels
Bodysuit, £1,370; shoes, £1,050, both by Alaïa. Underwear, £80; tights, £20, both by Wolford
Watches
Left, Frivole rose gold
earrings with diamonds,
£16,000; Ludo Secret rose
gold watch with diamonds,
price on request; Frivole
rose and white gold ring
with diamonds, £18,200,
all by Van Cleef & Arpels
Dress, £3,030, by Alaïa
For stockists, see page 161
104 ∑
Architecture
Design
Art & Culture
Travel
Entertaining
Beauty & Grooming
Transport
Technology
Fashion
Watches & Jewellery
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Library Street Collective’s new cultural hub in Detroit, designed by OMA New
York, is a signature rebuild that makes the most of the site’s existing structures
WRITER: SISKA LYSSENS
106 ∑
Architecture
Left, Lantern takes its
name from its façade, a
concrete masonry wall
drilled with 1,500 holes
to house cylindrical glass
elements that create a
glowing effect at night
A
sk Anthony Curis about Lantern, the creativity, without losing sight of the urban
new cultural and community hub in context. ‘In a city like Detroit, where a lot of
Detroit’s East Village, and he’ll give the urban fabric has disappeared, it’s great
you a modest answer. On a rainy March to preserve a building like this,’ says OMA’s
afternoon in the Michigan city, known for Jason Long, who led the design for Lantern.
its shifting fortunes tied to the automotive Though the space that became the
industry, he describes the architectural courtyard was missing a roof and a wall on
transformations redrawing the area, of which one side, Long decided to leverage the
Lantern is part, as ‘a by-product’ of Library existing structure, warts and all. ‘The solid
Street Collective, the gallery he founded with walls on the most prominent corner of the
his partner in life and work, JJ Curis, in 2012. site are a very simple construction of concrete
And yet, the many changes happening masonry units,’ he explains. ‘We thought
in Little Village, as the burgeoning creative that solidity was something to keep and at
district is now known, are both intentional the same time we wanted to figure out a way
and sweeping – and the Curises are behind to bring light into that part of the building
them. There’s the renovation of a 1912 church- – and some life into the façade itself.’
turned-art gallery-and-library by Peterson Long’s approach for these walls emerged
Rich Office. Next to it, a McArthur Binion while iterating different compositions of
and Tony Hawk-designed skate park borders windows, ideas that never really felt right.
a sculpture garden dedicated to the visual ‘The existing openings within the building
artist Charles McGee, with landscaping by were so straightforward, clear and rational
Manhattan-based studio OSD. An adjacent that doing something expressive just never
rectory was recast into a guesthouse and seemed to work.’ He ultimately landed
artist residency by Detroit practice Rossetti, on drilling 1,500 holes into the surface and
with interiors by Holly Jonsson Studio. filling them with cylindrical glass elements.
‘When we first started meeting with the They perforate the façade with a muted
community members and stakeholders they transparency that hints at what goes on
said incredible, great – but we don’t want it inside. Long sees it as ‘a somewhat light touch
to be an island, we want you to do more,’ that at the same time has a dramatic impact.’
Curis says about the response to their plans Not only has this façade been transformed
for the church, their first acquisition. from a solid barrier bordering the street to
The more they did, the more their list a textured invitation to explore Lantern, but
of collaborators kept growing. The Curises’ the way the community will circulate and
latest project, developed with OMA New engage with the buildings has also been
York, transforms a collection of buildings altered. By repositioning the main entrance
that includes a former commercial bakery toward the courtyard, formed from 2,000
and warehouses into a mixed-use complex. sq ft of poured red concrete, OMA shields
Sitting at the corner of Kercheval and this public space from traffic while opening it
McClellan avenues, the newly opened up to an alley and the site beyond it. ‘That was
Lantern will house the HQ of two local art our way of gesturing towards what we hope
non-profits: Signal-Return, a community will happen as this area develops,’ offers Long.
letterpress print shop, and Progressive Arts ‘We try to make all of our projects adaptable
Studio Collective (PASC), which supports in certain ways, knowing that they might
artists with disabilities and mental health be used differently in the future.’
differences. Organised around a courtyard, A living and breathing hub for the local
other tenants – artist studios, the music community, Lantern is the newest example
recording company Assemble Sound, plus of how OMA leverages architecture as a
Photography: Jason Keen
retail spaces and more – round out a concept catalyst for social change, creating the perfect
that sets out to serve the broader community. foil for the Curises’ mission. Long adds,
In sync with the Curises’ and the Detroit ‘Detroit is in a position to really experiment
art icon Charles McGee’s vision of improving with urban conditions, culture and buildings.
the quality of life in the city through art, Hopefully, this intervention has been done
OMA has designed a building that reflects in that spirit of experimentation.’ ∂
this idea of making a space that encourages oma.com, lscgallery.com
Credits
108 ∑ CREDITS
Design
110 ∑
Design
CABIN CLASS
112 ∑
Architecture
L
points, setbacks, volume and height. All the the cedar shingles cover both the roof and
Bay in Pointe au Baril, Ontario, docks had to be floating to accommodate walls, the windows are carved inwards and
Whistling Wind Island is so named the water rises on the lake. ‘It’s about living become expansive voids capturing long views,
because the wind here does indeed whistle. harmoniously with nature and respecting and the fireplaces are grounding.’
This is confirmed by Kelly Buffey, the the mercurial weather patterns, which can The cottage contains two bedrooms, a
co-founder of Toronto-based architecture change quickly from morning to afternoon, bathroom, and a large lounge, kitchen and
studio AKB, which has recently completed and throughout the seasons,’ says Buffey. dining area, punctuated by a granite fireplace,
a new-build house on the island, a summer The largest of the island’s two docks flags while the guest volume has a similar set-up
escape for a family of three. the property’s primary arrival point. A small but is slightly smaller. The clients worked
When the family approached the practice volume next to it serves as boat storage with Toronto interior designer Anne Hepfer
about building their private retreat, they and home gym. From there, a gangway takes on their furniture selection and overall decor.
were downsizing from a much larger property visitors to another rock outcropping with The architects aimed for their work to sit
in the area. One member is a kite surfer and a large wooden deck that is cut out around lightly on the land, sourcing local materials
a desire to be as close as possible to the water, an existing tree – one of the very few on the and, as much as possible, having everything
alongside an overall wish for simplicity and island, which is mostly made of Precambrian prefabricated or handcrafted (the latter often
a connection to nature, led them to purchase bedrock. The main house’s terrace is placed by necessity as bringing large construction
this islet on Lake Huron. On it, two existing between this and a building housing a sauna. equipment over from the mainland was tricky,
structures hinted at the boundaries for what Meanwhile, a bridge leads to a guest house, particularly as the lake freezes over in winter).
could be built in this sparsely inhabited, or ‘bunkie’, as Buffey refers to it. More sustainable additions include smart
windswept part of the world. It all feels suitably humble, built low in water management, no mechanical heating or
While the area is a popular holiday spot, cedar wood – clad in shingles externally cooling, and ‘greenifying’ parts of the site.
the architecture around Pointe au Baril is, and planks internally. Minimalism in lines, The result is a house that allows its
on the whole, understated and modest, material palette and spirit prevail, and users to feel like they are living within nature,
conceived so as not to detract from the the architects’ attention to detail meant their urban daily life a distant memory.
natural landscape and to remain respectful employing specialist craftsmanship from Visible shoals beneath the lake surface, set
of the existing vistas. Whistling Wind was further afield. ‘Our approach was to create against craggy outcrops, create an attractive
also designed with this in mind, resulting a contemporary reinterpretation of the site’s holiday backdrop for leisurely pursuits, be
in a quartet of small buildings that follow original cabins,’ says Buffey. ‘We referenced they sport, relaxation, or entertaining friends
the style and footprints of the original their traditional elements, but reimagined and family. ‘It’s the kind of place that
structures on the site, as well as the local them. The gabled roofs are asymmetrical, humbles you, reminding you of the power
planning regulations for high water mark appearing windswept in various directions, of nature,’ says Buffey. ∂ akb.ca
Design
IN THE ZONE
The San Francisco live-work space of Indian studio Soft-Geometry
provides the perfect place to work, rest and play
PHOTOGRAPHY: NATE GARCIA WRITER: ADRIAN MADLENER
Left, Soft-Geometry’s ‘Donut’
table and ‘Mirrors for Aliens’
mirror, alongside books,
materials and prototypes
F
or life and creative partners Palaash
Chaudhary and Utharaa Zacharias,
the force behind Soft-Geometry (who
appeared in the USA 300 list in our August
2023 issue), a career-defining quest to infuse
objects with ‘softness’ is as much a reflection
of cross-cultural influence as it is place.
Splitting time between their native India
and adoptive United States, the duo live and
work in a converted 1920s warehouse in
San Francisco’s SoMa neighbourhood.
‘The studio is part of our home, so we
have to be soft with how we treat it,’ says
Zacharias. ‘And our home is part of the
studio, so we can’t be too precious about it
either. We have a photo by German artist
Ole Witt of an Indian lawyer who set up his
office on a scooter, and I think our space
embodies that spirit. It’s a reminder of how
much you can do with a little.’
Because of this spatial dynamic, there’s
flexibility not only in experimenting with
the shape and material properties of a new
concept, but also in getting a sense of how
these designs can be lived with. Having set up
shop here two and half years ago, Chaudhary
and Zacharias have developed collections
such as the ‘Elio’ lamp and ‘Donut’ table.
At this year’s NYCxDesign (New York
Design Week) event in May, the studio will
launch ‘Molecule’, a modular element with
both solid and transparent characteristics
that can be used as a support or function
as a standalone object. The design was
inspired by the practice of handmaking the
intricately-patterned Athangudi tiles that
have clad homes in the south Indian region
of Chettinad for more than a century. Each
‘Molecule’ component is cast in resin and
moulded by hand to form mortise and tenon
joints. As with many of Soft-Geometry’s
undertakings, there’s an intriguing tension
between the use of contemporary industrial
processes and age-old craft traditions.
‘Over the last nine months, our space has
served as the testing ground for this delicate
and complex process, guided as much by
intuition as the technique that constructs
them,’ says Chaudhary. ‘It feels as though our
studio has once again expanded and
transformed to make way for this collection.
Credits
∑ 115
‘We have a photo by German artist Ole Witt of an Indian lawyer
who set up his office on a scooter, and I think our space embodies
that spirit. It’s a reminder of how much you can do with a little’
Above, an ‘Elio’ lamp, by Soft-Geometry, alongside a ‘Cesca’ chair by Marcel Breuer, in a corner of the studio
Photography: Soft-Geometry
116 ∑
Design
months. It has been rewarding to see our among the prototypes and material samples
studio slowly be inhabited with the colourful are items that the pair have collected over
architecture of ‘Molecule’, reminiscent the years, including red fibreglass armchairs
of those in our hometowns.’ While he hails designed by Vico Magistretti for Artemide
from Ghaziabad, just outside New Delhi, and glassware by Agustina Bottoni.
Zacharias is from Kochi. ‘Our practice is rooted in softness and the
One of the space’s best attributes is its sentimentality of objects,’ says Chaudhary.
large double-height windows that flood the The duo aim to stretch the limits of what
interior with sunlight. ‘Golden light comes everydays objects can do. ‘It can be poetic,
in during the evening and makes everything sometimes chaotic, and deeply personal.’
feel beautiful,’ says Zacharias. ‘It really begs This approach was put to the test last year
for us to be creating. The window’s shadow when they had to go through the arduous
moving along the wall has predictably process of gaining green cards to become US
become our favourite shoot backdrop.’ residents. A set of scratched-up steel thali
Along with zones with workbenches, plates, originally sourced in India, and their
supply storage and a packaging corner, the determination to revive them in a new way,
space also transforms into a photography provided them with a sense of catharsis.
studio from time to time. The lower level ‘Every day, emotionally drained from writing
is loosely organised as a workshop that pages and pages for the application, we would
changes based on the task at hand, and most sand these plates for hours, then check if
of the furniture and equipment has been we could see our reflections,’ says Zacharias.
retrofitted with wheels so that the duo can ‘It gave us a way to reflect on our Indianness,
quickly turn the studio into a dining room our alienness, and the impermanence that
or entertainment space for games nights comes with living on visas.’
with friends. ‘The floors are concrete and The resulting ‘Mirrors for Aliens’ series
can take it,’ adds Zacharias. was exhibited at last year’s NYCxDesign,
Meanwhile, the upper floor is allocated garnering a lot of attention. The designs
as the duo’s bedroom. Though mostly will also be shown by gallery Superhouse
untouched by the activity below, even this during this year’s New York Design Week,
room is sometimes used for photo shoots. and the prototype was recently acquired
‘It’s our favourite spot to photograph a by the San Francisco Museum of Modern
bird’s-eye view of the studio,’ says Zacharias. Art (SFMoMA). ‘It all feels very full circle,
The benefit of operating in a live-work and would have been impossible without
space – especially when one builds furniture everything this space has transformed
and Blueberry, next to a piece from its modular
and objects for the home – is that they get into for us,’ concludes Zacharias. ∂ ‘Molecule’ series. Above, Utharaa Zacharias and
to live with what they produce. Scattered soft-geometry.com Palaash Chaudhary in their San Francisco studio
GOOD MIXER
A site-specific artwork at Hauser & Wirth Somerset serves up a cocktail of salvaged materials
118 ∑
Art
146
120 ∑
Travel
I
Above and opposite, n the endless quest for privacy and With 59 units spread across three levels,
the Babel Tulum holiday
apartment retreat is built
escape from the demands of daily city circulation is optimised to integrate natural
from a plaster that closely life, architects must continue to think light and surrounding views. Meanwhile, the
resembles chukum (a outside the box. For Mexican studio complex’s central tower, which is surrounded
traditional Mayan material), V Taller, such debates led them to design by a circular swimmimg pool, houses the
its earthy, pinkish colour
adding a sense of softness Babel, a holiday apartment retreat near the main communal amenities, as well as taking
pre-Columbian Mayan walled city of Tulum, on the role of sculptural centrepiece.
in Quintana Roo, a Mexican state on the Guadalajara-based interior design firm
Yucatán Peninsula. Located on a once barren Carlos y Pablo used natural materials, such
plot, this restorative retreat is just minutes as locally sourced travertine marble, parota
from the jungle and offers easy access to wood, and organic cotton and linen for
a network of cenotes and the chance to furniture, upholstery and bedding. ‘We
snorkel among vibrant coral reefs. wanted the design details to be contemporary
Babel Tulum is defined by soft curves and but still maintain a Mexican identity. Thus,
an organic colour palette that integrates with we incorporated artwork by Mexico City-
the landscape. The architectural inspiration based photographer Manuel Zúñiga and
draws from the rich heritage of haciendas in handmade pottery by Encrudo, a local brand
Yucatán, particularly in the elegant handling from Jalisco,’ say Carlos y Pablo founders
of arches and vaults that nod to the local Carlos Talamantes and Pablo Villalpando.
vernacular, but with a minimalist twist. Babel Tulum is fast gaining a reputation
V Taller founders Miguel Valverde and in the area for its wide range of wellness
Daniel Villanueva say, ‘We aimed to induce facilities, including a meditation altar, yoga
a sensation of stillness by using only one studio, spa massage cabins and herbal steam
primary material, which would allow the room. Guests can engage in sound baths and
eyes to rest. To achieve this, we chose to immersive experiences in the Zen garden, and
work with a plaster that closely resembles the property also offers an ASMR room with
chukum, a traditional Mayan material, a sleep concierge and a vegetarian restaurant
which provides a sense of softness. serving fresh mocktails. ∂ babeltulum.com
JUNE IS ALL ABOUT...
WANDER LUST
p124
SUCCESS STORIES
Ho Chi Minh City’s ever-evolving narratives
p140
MASTER PLANS
A new London hotel takes sleek engineering to another level
p146
BLACK MAGIC
Showing a dark side at Aman’s Moroccan outpost
p162
FRENCH LEAVE
Our new-look Navigator series lands in Cannes
∑ 123
The Trip
This page, Ho Chi Minh City’s
1966 Independence Palace,
by local architect Ngo Viet Thu,
is considered a paragon of
postcolonial modernism. Its
façade features a bamboo-inspired
stone latticework
Opposite, its interiors have
been left untouched since the
1970s, including this luxurious
cinema room with red velvet
upholstery and padded doors
The sky’s the limit for Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam’s booming metropolis,
where stellar street food, historic alleyways and honking motorbikes now mix
with shiny new skyscrapers, minimalist showrooms and upscale patisseries
Photography JIN JIA JI Writer JOSHUA ZUK AS
∑ 125
The Trip
A
rriving in Ho Chi Minh City for the
first time can feel like a shock to the
system. Decades ago, you might have
spotted bicycles wobbling through
lantern-lit streets and buffaloes
basking in opaque waters, but today, the
modern metropolis is rather different.
As your taxi crawls through the periphery,
besieged by motorbikes, you’ll encounter few
cyclists and no fauna (save, perhaps, the odd
pocket poodle). Instead, you’ll cruise through
hyperactive streets flanked by terraced houses
with ground-floor neon shops. Occasionally,
a glass-clad office or hotel will interrupt the
carnival of mismatched nha ong or ‘tube houses’.
These skinny buildings, which can be less than
3m wide and up to 12 floors tall, have popped
up all around Vietnam as a result of limited
building space and property tax policies. The
only design consistency seems to be deliberate
inconsistency; after all, Ho Chi Minh City is
a city that pushes you to stand out.
Within Ho Chi Minh City’s historic core,
a sense of order emerges. In the early years
of the colonial period (1862-1954), the French
flattened much of the old city, founded
around 400 years ago, and laid down a grid
system that still gives structure to the city
centre. Here you’ll find the city’s more storied
architecture, such as the early 20th-century
Jade Emperor Pagoda, a labyrinthine temple
guarded by magenta walls, or Villa Le Voile,
a flamboyant French mansion that is being
turned into a cultural centre with help from
restoration specialists Stonewest of London
and Palazzo Spinelli of Florence.
Nearby is local architect Ngo Viet Thu’s
Independence Palace, completed in 1966
to replace a bombed French behemoth and
now considered a paragon of Vietnam’s
postcolonial modernism. The style, a branch
of tropical modernism, borrowed minimalist
design ideas from elsewhere in the world
and adapted them to suit Vietnam’s heat and
humidity. Less than a decade later, in 1975,
North Vietnamese tanks rolled through the
palace gates, bringing an end to the two
decades of civil war that erupted after the
French exit. A year later, the former capital
of the defeated and defunct South Vietnam
was bestowed a new name, Ho Chi Minh
City, though the old name, Saigon, has
proved difficult to shake.
The end of the war brought peace, but as
history attests, this has always been a city of
dissonance. Today, the tension lies in what
kind of megacity the Saigonese want Ho Chi
Minh City to be. Later to the development
game than its regional peers, Vietnam is now
one of Asia’s fastest-growing economies, and
Ho Chi Minh City is its urban powerhouse.
Can rapid progress prioritise liveability, respect
heritage and foster creative communities?
‘Although [Saigon’s] rich and layered
history often gets washed away in modern
life, if you know where to look, you’ll uncover
remarkable revelations,’ says Bill Nguyen,
director of Nguyen Art Foundation (NAF), »
This page, Vietnam’s commercial hub, Ho Chi Minh City is home to more than 9 million inhabitants, and at least 7 million scooters and motorbikes
Opposite, the Jade Emperor Pagoda, built in the early 20th century by the local Chinese community, is one of the city’s most visited pagodas
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This page, the cityscape as
seen from The View’s rooftop
bar, with, far left, in pink,
Landmark 81, at 461m the
country’s tallest skyscraper;
centre, in white, César Pelli’s
Vietcombank Tower, and
far right, with a cantilevered
helipad, Carlos Zapata’s
Bitexco Financial Tower
Opposite, left, a traditional
Vietnamese drip coffee,
produced using a phin filter
at Lacaph coffee bar. Right,
Michelin-starred restaurant
Anan Saigon’s elegant take
on the banh mi, Vietnam’s
famous baguette sandwich
128 ∑
The Trip
one of the city’s largest contemporary art under threat from developers keen to
collections. Born in Hanoi, Vietnam’s capital, supplant them with apartment blocks. Made
Nguyen moved south in 2017. Ho Chi Minh of organic matter, the ageing artwork will
City, a city of immigrants, ‘has always been warp over time, though nobody can predict
Vietnam’s melting pot,’ he says. ‘What makes exactly how. ‘I can’t control how the work
this place home to me is its embrace of might degrade, but that’s part of it,’ says
diversity and acceptance. Here, you can be Phuong Linh. ‘We can’t know what might
your authentic self without judgement.’ be ruined and what might remain.’
But in a city where you can be anything, The Ho Chi Minh City of today is
almost anything goes. Urbanisation is wild unrecognisable from the Saigon of half a
and rampant, and this sets an example – century ago. This is most evident on the east
and offers a warning – to Vietnam’s other side of the Saigon River, a new development
cities, including the capital. Hanoian artist area attracting big investments and bigger
Nguyen Phuong Linh’s Rubber, Soap, Tobacco, names. Foster + Partners are steering the
a permanent installation at NAF, consists evolution of The Global City, a 117-hectare
of three large cubes made of the titular masterplan with apartments, villas, schools,
commodities, in a commentary on a rapidly hospitals and shopping malls. Meanwhile,
changing urban Vietnam. The smell of the Büro Ole Scheeren is working on an ensemble
installation saturates the small exhibition of biophilic high-rise towers that overlook
room, and as you move around the cubes, the river. The projects are ambitious, but
one scent transforms into the next. Nguyen remains sceptical. ‘I can’t help
Growing up in Hanoi, Phuong Linh would but wonder, who are these projects for?
often cycle past old factories that produced Who can actually afford to live here?’
these commodities. The living wartime Nestled among the mega projects of the
remnants still belch the smells that inspired river’s east bank, homegrown biophilic talent
the artwork and are important reminders is propagating more quietly; this is where
of the country’s industrial heritage, now Vo Trong Nghia of VTN Architects and »
The Trip
Above, a Vietnamese modernist building in District 3 houses local cosmetics brands Thorakao and a branch of Starbucks. Vietnam is the second
largest coffee exporter in the world, but the Seattle-based chain accounts for only a meagre share of the local coffee-drinking market
Above, a group of visitors in front of the Ho Chi Minh Museum, after taking photographs next to a statue representing Ho Chi Minh as a young man.
The women are wearing colourful ao dai outfits, a Vietnamese garment consisting of a long split tunic worn over trousers
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The Trip
Above, located near the Opera House, Ivoire is an upscale patisserie specialising in delicate creations such
as this one made with poached apple, yuzu, cara cara orange custard and walnut dacquoise
Above, artist Nguyen Phuong Linh with her artwork Rubber, Soap, Tobacco at the Nguyen Art Foundation in Thu Duc. The installation
references the disappearance of many old factories, which are being replaced by residential developments
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The Trip
Nguyen Hoang Manh of Mia Design Studio, the breeze, even the rain can help craft
two of Vietnam’s leading architects, advocate the indoor environment. We don’t want to
a greener vision for Ho Chi Minh City’s fight against nature. We want to embrace it.’
future. Ensconced in headquarters draped in The bioclimatic, seven-floor office building
foliage, they hope to nurture Vietnam’s next seeks to maximise natural light while
generation of community-orientated and minimising heat from the sun, with a tree-
sustainability-focused architects. studded buffer layer and perforated walls.
West of the centre, local firm Tropical The hope, Thi Ngu Ngon says, is that
Space completed the Premier Office in 2022 tenderly connecting office workers with the
using bricks. ‘Our philosophy is about letting outside world will spark creativity.
the natural world in,’ says co-founder Tran Inside the colonial grid and dwarfed by
Thi Ngu Ngon, who was born in Dong Nai, the recently renovated Park Hyatt Saigon,
a province north-east of Saigon. ‘Sunlight, you’ll find A21studio’s The Myst Dong »
This page, Tropical Space’s Premier Office, in Tan Binh, is a bioclimatic, seven-floor building featuring perforated brick walls
Opposite, the minimalist showroom of furniture and homeware brand District Eight, whose works include a chess set
inspired by historical Vietnamese court attire, the ‘Tote’ credenza and the ‘Stilt’ armchair
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The Trip
Opposite, architects Tran Thi Ngu Ngon and Nguyen Hai Long, of Tropical Space, in the atrium of their Premier Office project
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The Trip
which boasts the city’s only Michelin star, restaurant, StudioDuo reimagined the first Below, the atmospheric
you can tuck into elevated versions of floor of a curved heritage corner building interiors of Nén Light, a fine
Vietnam’s best-known street food dishes, that combines art deco and modernist dining restaurant specialising
in hyper-local ingredients
such as banh mi and pho. Over at Nén features. The firm extended the curvature
and inspiring dishes
Light, the team has taken a more daring to the interiors, with ‘natural patterns and
route by composing tasting menus featuring free-form geometry,’ says Arturo Moreno, the Opposite, the courtyard
garden at Mia Design Studio’s
fresh dishes that remain grounded in Spanish architect at StudioDuo who moved
HQ, an airy building with
traditional Vietnamese recipes. to Saigon in 2015. This creates a fluid a façade wrapped in foliage
‘When I arrived in Vietnam [in 2001], the atmosphere boosted by a border of greenery. located in Thu Duc
culinary scene was mostly on the street,’ says The restaurant and nightclub may offer
Photography assistant:
Sarah Nguyen, the French creative director a glimpse of Ho Chi Minh City’s postmodern Jiang Yuhang
at StudioDuo, an architecture and interior future: a hedonistic blend of surviving
With thanks to Lam Nguyen
design practice based in the city. Though she heritage, cosmopolitan clout and evolving
laments the bulldozing of street life to make narratives. ‘Next year marks the fall – or
way for a modern metropolis, she’s observed liberation depending on your point of view
that ‘the change has brought positive things – of Saigon,’ says Bill Nguyen of NAF. ‘It will
like new fusion restaurants that highlight be intriguing to see what kind of narratives
more elaborate cuisine.’ At Yunka, a Nikkei emerge from this event.’ ∂
∑ 139
New London hotel The Emory presents the perfect
showcase of RSHP’s signature functionalist style and
hospitality group Maybourne’s elevated luxury
PHOTOGRAPHY: LEON CHEW WRITER: ELLIE STATHAKI
RSHP’s first encounter with luxury hotel way it was organised. It was about making
group Maybourne happened 20 years ago, strong, rational decisions that would
when the acclaimed architecture studio inform the construction process. What we
was approached to work with it on a new created only exists because of the project’s
entrance for The Berkeley. It resulted in the pragmatic constraints.’
sleek canopy, made of a series of 16 carbon If in doubt about the project’s high level
fibre beams, that elegantly adorn its period- of precise engineering and function-led
inspired façade to this day. Just next to it design, a look at the main façade will
is The Emory, ‘London’s first all-suite hotel’, convince you otherwise. The Emory stands
which opened in Belgravia in April and is proudly overlooking Hyde Park, its
the latest – and largest – product in the captivating network of steel outriggers
long, fruitful relationship that ensued. peeking out from its rooftop-like masts, their
RSHP partner Ivan Harbour was a key slim steel rods running down the clean,
force in the project from day one, alongside functionalist façade, helping to define a neat
the legendary practice co-founder Richard grid of openings for the suites behind it.
Rogers, who remained involved until his Digging deeper (pun intended), the
death in 2021. The Emory’s location is in one way the structure nestles into the earth right
of central London’s most highly sought- next to the tunnels that serve the London
after corners, and naturally it influenced the Underground’s Piccadilly Line without
project’s design development. ‘The Emory transferring vibration to the rooms above is
is part of a family of projects that we created another technical feat. The superstructure
around The Berkeley so, in that context, is built around a steel core that runs the
we were aiming to create something very height and length of the building and
clear on a site that is very dense and already contains the circulation space. Off it, hangs a
fully occupied,’ says Harbour. ‘It had to larger, steel ‘box’, created around a frame by
be something that could be constructed Portuguese specialists Bysteel. This volume
as much as possible off-site, and so it had spans upwards and outwards from level one,
to have a level of rational thinking in the leaving the ground floor free to offer »
140 ∑
Architecture
The RSHP-designed
Emory hotel in
Belgravia features a
visible hanging system
with slim steel rods
running down its
minimalist glass façade
142 ∑
Architecture
144 ∑
Architecture
This page, designed by trend) and groups the opportunity to have champions some of the finest treatments
André Fu, the 200 sq m their own inner sanctum within the hotel, for longevity and well-being in town.
Emory Park Suite offers where time becomes the ultimate luxury.’ Even as much of the interior bears a
views of Hyde Park and The ground level also takes a refreshingly variety of creative signatures, the building’s
sleeps up to four people unusual approach. Visitors enter from the RSHP bones allow for everything to coexist
Opposite, The Emory’s side mews street on Old Barrack Yard and in harmony and discretely greet visitors
multilayered façade is a are led through an open-air reception into at various points – from the striking pink
composition offering a a discreet check-in area and ABC Kitchens, staircase, its pop of colour paying homage to
modern take on period a restaurant helmed by renowned chef Jean- Richard Rogers and his love of bright hues,
ornamental details Georges Vongerichten. ‘We wanted an anti- to the thick springs that absorb movement
lobby, a ‘side’ door so, when entering the and are just visible at the entrance level, and
hotel, you first see the circulation spaces and the immaculately precise steel elements that
kitchen, where the employees have as good a surround the rooftop’s two glass pavilions,
view of the park as the diners,’ says Harbour. which are for hotel guest use only.
Rémi Tessier is behind the common ‘We probably underestimate how
areas across the ground level, including the unusual The Emory is,’ Harbour concludes.
restaurant, and rooftop, which contains ‘We do projects all around the world, but
The Emory Cigar Merchants and Bar 33 in this is special. We don’t do many hotels,
its twin glass volumes. The ground-floor and the fact that this is part of a lasting
Emory Bar features a bespoke faceted glass relationship with Maybourne is beautiful.’
canopy by artist Brian Clarke. On the lower- Indeed, full of character and defined by its
ground levels (which extend to four floors, ability to offer choice to its guests, RSHP’s
including a plant level), the expansive and first-ever luxury hotel in London feels like a
minimalist Surrenne wellness members’ rare treat, and is now open for business. ∂
club was also designed by Tessier and rshp.com, the-emory.co.uk
SAHARA NOIR
We’re back to black and staying cool at our Maghreb hideaway
Photography VA LENTIN HENNEQUIN Fashion JASON HUGHES
146 ∑
Fashion
This page, jacket;
trousers, both price on
request, by Bottega
Veneta. Necklace,
£550; necklace, £640,
both by Goossens
Opposite, stole, price
on request, by Alaïa
Fashion
Above, swimsuit, £210, by Vilebrequin. Bangles, from £479, by Alexis Bittar
Opposite, dress, £1,075, by Rick Owens. Shoes, £710, by Jacquemus. Cuff, £318, by Alexis Bittar
∑ 149
Opposite, top, £3,300; skirt, £1,690, both by Louis Vuitton. Earrings, £167, by Alexis Bittar
150 ∑
Fashion
Fashion
Above, dress, €1,978, by Alexandre Vauthier. Earrings, £167, by Alexis Bittar
Opposite, jacket; skirt, both price on request; shoes, £710, all by Jacquemus
∑ 153
Above, jumper, £395, by Luca Faloni. Underwear, £770, by Dior. Earrings, £167, by Alexis Bittar
Opposite, dress, €3,290, by Givenchy. Earrings, £167, by Alexis Bittar
154 ∑
Fashion
Fashion
Above, swimming top, £520; swimming trunks, £430, both by Chanel
Opposite, dress, £2,165, by Ferragamo. Shoes, £710, by Jacquemus. Earrings, price on request,
by Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello. Necklace, £895, by Goossens
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Above, bodysuit, £340; leggings, £450, both by Supriya Lele. Shoes, £710, by Jacquemus.
Earrings, £318; bangles, from £479, all by Alexis Bittar. Bangles, from £219, by Dinosaur Designs
Opposite, dress, £9,000, by Prada
For stockists, see page 161
158 ∑
Fashion
Model: Katlin Aas at
Supreme Management
Casting: Ikki Casting at WSM
Hair: Noelia Corral at
Blend Management using
Kevin Murphy Spain
Make-up: Eny Whitehead
at Wise & Talented
using Chanel Beauty
Photography assistant:
Pietro Lazzaris
Fashion assistant:
Lucy Proctor
Special thanks to Amanjena.
Turn the page for more on
our fashion story location
Fashion
Left, Aman’s Amanjena
resort, which is set around
an ornamental lake, was
inspired by Arabic, Berber
and Moorish architecture
Alaïa
maison-alaia.com
Alexandre Vauthier
alexandrevauthier.com
Alexis Bittar
alexisbittar.com
Ananya
ananya.com
Aram
aram.co.uk
Baserange
baserange.com
Bottega Veneta
bottegaveneta.com
Brunello Cucinelli
brunellocucinelli.com
Byredo
byredo.com
Celine
celine.com
Chanel
chanel.com
Connolly
connollyengland.com
Delvaux
delvaux.com
Dinosaur Designs
dinosaurdesigns.com.au
Dior
dior.com
Dr Barbara Sturm
drsturm.com
Dries Van Noten
driesvannoten.com
Eres
eresparis.com
Luca Faloni Stella McCartney
Ferragamo lucafaloni.com stellamccartneybeauty.com
ferragamo.com
Manolo Blahnik Supriya Lele
Givenchy manoloblahnik.com supriyalele.com
givenchy.com
Margaret Howell The Grey
Goossens margarethowell.co.uk thegreymensskincare.com
goossens-paris.com
Moroso Util
Hermès moroso.com thisisutil.com
hermes.com
Prada Valentino
Jacob Cohën prada.com valentino.com
jacobcohen.com
Rick Owens Valextra Product credits, see page 037
Jacquemus rickowens.eu valextra.com Agua Drop eau de parfum, £118 for
jacquemus.com 50ml, by Loewe. Liquid Lipstick Matte
Rimowa Van Cleef & Arpels in Martian Dust, £45, by Byredo.
John Lobb rimowa.com vancleefarpels.com Cannabis patchouli hand cream, £35
johnlobb.com for 50ml, by Dries Van Noten. Good
Saint Laurent by Vilebrequin Night supplements, £65 for 60 capsules,
Loewe Anthony Vaccarello vilebrequin.com by Dr Barbara Sturm. Alter-Care
perfumesloewe.com ysl.com supplements, £60 for 60 capsules, by
Wolford Stella McCartney. High On The Beach
Loro Piana Selahatin wolford.com whitening toothpaste, £20; Eukalypse
loropiana.com selahatin.com oral spray, £28, both by Selahatin.
Daily Face Protect SPF50 sun cream,
Louis Vuitton Selfridges £55 for 50ml, by The Grey. Le Vernis
louisvuitton.com selfridges.com nail polish in Sun Drop, £29, by Chanel
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Navigator
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01. La Croix des Gardes 04. Galerie Hurtebize 07. Maison Callaloo For more inspiring,
Occupying more than For more than 30 years, A ceramics studio that design-led travel stories,
80 hectares of woodland, this gallery has been artfully captures the city’s visit Wallpaper.com ∏
this natural park offers exhibiting the great Mediterranean tones
a magnificent view of names of modern and through clay. Don’t leave
the Riviera landscape. post-impressionist art. without one of its unique
galerie-hurtebize.com bowls, vases or platters.
02. Hôtel Belle Plage @maisoncallaloo
Built in the 1930s, the 05. Forte_Forte
Belle Plage was revitalised A boutique that stands 08. Sens
in 2022 by Raphael Navot out as much for its With its open-plan,
and Faar. The spectacular free-spirited ready-to- stainless steel kitchen,
rooftop restaurant serves wear collections as for concrete flooring and
regional delights by its Robert Vattilana- curvaceous midcentury
Israeli chef Eyal Shani. designed interiors. chairs, Sens brings
hotelbelleplage.fr forte-forte.com a Parisian flavour to
the Côte d’Azur.
03. Table 22 by Mantel 06. Le Bar à Vin sens-restaurant.fr
Combining a love of Open since 1998, this N
art with a love of food, wine bar offers seasonal 09. Le C Club spa
Table 22 has something pairings with regional The serene wellness
for everyone. Ask for the charcuterie and cheeses in centre, at the Carlton CANNES, FRANCE
catch-of-the-day served a cosy setting surrounded Cannes hotel, offers (GMT +1)
with seasonal vegetables by exposed brick and superlative treatments 1 : 23,0oo
from Marché Forville. dark orange walls. and a striking pool.
restaurantmantel.com @lebaravin_cannes carltoncannes.com